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Byways Magazine
ŠCopyright 2018 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher.
For more than 35 years, Byways has been covering the leading destinations along the highways and byways of North America. Some of the most well-known, and least known, destinations to discover in the United States and Canada.
Byways is published in three versions. They is the Turn-Key edition on the web for viewing on Computers, Android, iOS (iPhone and iPad). There is an Apple App Store edition. There is also a Byways Magazine Channel in Apple News. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine 502-785-4875 http://bywaysmagazine.com
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PREVIEW By Steve Kirchner, Editor & Publisher
From the West Coast we travel across the country to hen I was younger I spent a New York State. Between the Adirondack and Catskill lot of time in Northern California, Oregon and Mountains, travelers will find themselves located right in Washington. There is something here the heart of Central New York. And that means New York Brew. that local In the 1800s 90 residents percent of the take for nation’s hops were granted, a sight which most grown here. It was Americans have never expeonce the No. 1 beer rienced. But once you have producer in the U.S. seen it, you will never forget. Although Central I’m referring to the New York no longer Cascade Range, and a string holds the title, the of 13 volcanoes that define brewing business this region of North continues to thrive America. in Central New York I can still remember my with over 75 brewtime at Fort Lewis near eries, wineries, Tacoma, WA. Most of the cideries and distillertime the clouds shielded Glacier Peak volcano in Washington State. ies in the region Mount Ranier and it was not Photo courtesy Richard LaHusen. alone. even visible. And then the Taste testing your clouds would clear, and this way across the area is an experience any craft beverage giant, 14,410 volcano would tower over the city, as if it lover would not want to miss. were just a couple miles away. But in fact it is 220 miles Exploring the eight counties that make up the region away. It was a sight I would never forget. There is a photo of Tacoma and Mount Ranier in this issue. Take a will uncover fun for all ages and interests. Nature lovers, look, and you will understand how impressive this vol- foodies, history buffs will have no trouble creating itineraries jam-packed with activities. cano really is. Next, we’re off to West Virginia. The Canaan Valley In this issue of Byways we follow the Cascade Range, features extensive wetlands and the headwaters of the from British Columbia through Northern California. Blackwater River which spills out of the valley at The Cascade volcanoes define the Pacific Northwest section of the “Ring of Fire”, a fiery array of volcanoes that rim the Pacific Ocean. I think you will agree the photos are breathtaking. Also in British Columbia, we travel to Fraser Canyon, one of Canada’s most spectacular valleys. Here the Fraser River has cut deeply through narrow rock gorges of the Coast Mountains. The canyon extends 170 miles north to the confluence of the Chilcotin River. Its southern stretch is a major transportation corridor to Canada’s interior from the coast, with the Canadian National and Canadian Pacific Railways and the Trans-Canada Highway carved out of its rock faces, At Hell’s Gate, the canyon walls rise about 3,300 ft above the rapids. It’s hard to imagine how these rail lines and highway were ever built under such difficult condiMount Adams near Trout Lake, WA. USGS tions. photo courtesy Jim Vallance. Byways • 4
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Blackwater Falls. It is a well-known and partially undeveloped scenic attraction and popular tourism destination. The average valley floor elevation is 3,200 feet above sea level, making it the highest sizable valley east of the Mississippi River. In the early 1970s, Canaan Valley Resort State Park was created at the southern end of the Valley to further develop a ski industry in the state. Today, the valley’s unique climatic and natural features attract a steady flow of outdoor visitors. Camping, hiking, fishing (trout, bass), cross-country and downhill skiing, leaf-peeping, and wildlife viewing are popular outdoor activities. In What’s Happening, Jefferson National Expansion Memorial in St. Louis is now Gateway Arch National Park, home of the internationally recognized Gateway Arch. The Tram Ride to the Top of the Gateway Arch is taking visitors up daily and the Old Courthouse is currently showcasing Dred Scott and his freedom suit. And on the Mississippi River, the Becky Thatcher and the Tom Sawyer Riverboats continue to provide visitors
unparalleled views of the Arch and downtown St. Louis. We hope you enjoy this issue of Byways.
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Volume 35, Issue No. 2 2018
On the cover. Mount Baker above Bellingham, WA on Bellingham Bay. Photo courtesy Dave Tucker. For more on the Cascade Range and its 13 large volcanoes, turn to page 10. Mountains and Valleys coverage begins on page 8.
Features
Mountains & Valleys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 The Cascade Range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 British Columbia’s Fraser Canyon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Central New York Brew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 The Canaan Valley of West Virginia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Departments
Byways Instant Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Byways Preview. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Advertisers Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
What’s Happening
Gateway Arch National Park Announced . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Opryland Nashville SoundWaves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Coming in future issues of Byways ..... Ocean Views, Rivers & Lakes, Great American Roads, Great American Railroads and much more!
Next Up: Ocean Views. Whale watching off the Massachusetts coast. Photo courtesy Captain John Boats.
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Mountains & Valleys
Mount St. Helens and Mount Ranier in Washington state are two of 13 large volcanoes in the Cascade Range stretching 700 miles from British Columbia to Northern California. Photo courtesy United States Geological Survey (USGS). 8 • Byways
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The Cascade Range
Mount Hood in the Cascade Range in Oregon viewed from the South. Photo courtesy Richard Stovall, USGS.
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Although 220 miles away, Mount Rainier towers over Tacoma, WA. Photo courtesy Lyn Topinka.
he impressive Cascade Range runs along the western edge of North America from California into British Columbia. It is famous for its chain of tall volcanoes called the High Cascades that run northsouth along the west coast of North America from British Columbia to the Shasta Cascade area of northern California. The Canadian Cascades, is the Canadian segment of the North American Cascade Volcanic Arc. Located entirely within the Canadian province of British Columbia, it extends from the Cascade Mountains in the south to the Coast Mountains in the north. The Cascades volcanoes define the Pacific Northwest section of the “Ring of Fire”, a fiery array of volcanoes that rim the Pacific Ocean. As if volcanic hazards were not enough, the “Ring of Fire” is also infamous for its frequent earthquakes. Where the Sierra Nevada ends, a chain of explosive volcanic centers, the Cascade volcanoes, begins. Within this region, 13 major volcanic centers lie in sequence like a string of explosive pearls. Although the largest volcanoes like Mount St. Helens get the most attention, the Cascades is really made up of a band of thousands of very small, short-lived volcanoes that have built a platform of lava and volcanic debris. Rising above this volcanic platform are a few strikingly 12 • Byways
Mount Hood dominates the skyline of Portland, OR on a clear day. Photo courtesy Ed Ruttledge, USGS.
large volcanoes that dominate the landscape. Mount St. Helens and at least six other volcanoes in the Cascade Range have erupted at least once during historical time. Most of the Cascade volcanic areas contain fumaroles, hot springs, or other evidence of subsurface volcanic heat, but only Mount St. Helens and Lassen Peak have erupted within the past century. Major volcanic centers are Mount Baker, Glacier Peak, Mount Rainier, Mount St. Helens, Mount Adams, Mount Hood, Mount Jefferson, Three Sisters, Newberry Caldera, Crater Lake (Mount Mazama), Medicine Lake, Mount Shasta, and Lassen Peak.
recent ice age, this volcano has produced some of the largest and most explosive eruptions in the continental United States. • Snow and ice-covered Mount Baker, located in northern Washington, is the highest peak in the North Cascades 10,781 ft and the northernmost volcano in the continental United States.
Most Active Cascade Volcanoes
The following volcanoes are among the most active in the Cascade Range. • Crater Lake partly fills one of the most visually spectacular calderas of the world, an 5-by-6-mile basin more than a half mile deep formed by the collapse of the volcano known as Mount Mazama during a series of explosive eruptions about 7,700 years ago. With a depth of 1,949 ft, Crater Lake is the deepest lake in the United States. • Glacier Peak is the most remote of the five active volcanoes in Washington State, and more than a dozen glaciers descend its flanks, prompting its name. Glacier Peak is not prominently visible from any major population center, and so its attractions, as well as its hazards, tend to be overlooked. Yet since the end of the most
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Crater Lake in Oregon is the deepest lake in the United States. Photo courtesy David Ramsey, USGS. 14 • Byways
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Mount Shasta looming over the town of Weed, CA. Photo courtesy Mark Stensaas.
• Mount Hood, Oregon’s highest peak, forms a prominent backdrop to the state’s largest city, Portland, and contributes valuable water, scenic, and recreational resources that help sustain the agricultural and tourist segments of the economies of surrounding cities and counties. The volcano has erupted episodically for about 500,000 years and hosted two major eruptive periods during the past 1,500 years. • Mount Rainier, the highest peak in the Cascade Range at 14,410 ft, forms a dramatic backdrop to Seattle and the Puget Sound region. During an eruption 5,600 years ago the once-higher edifice collapsed to form a large crater open to the northeast much like that at Mount St. Helens after 1980. • Prior to 1980, Mount St. Helens had the shape of a conical, youthful volcano sometimes referred to as the Mount Fuji of America. During the 1980 eruption the upper 1,300 ft of the summit was removed by a huge debris avalanche, leaving a 2 1.2 x 2.2 mile horseshoeshaped crater now partially filled by a lava dome and a glacier. • Newberry Volcano in Oregon is the largest volcano in the Cascades volcanic arc and covers an area the size of Rhode Island. Unlike familiar cone-shaped Cascades volcanoes, Newberry was built into the shape of a broad shield by repeated eruptions over the past 400,000 years. • The Three Sisters in Oregon lie within a broad area of densely spaced volcanic vents that, in the Cascades, is 16 • Byways
South, Middle and North Sister volcanoes viewed from the south. Photo courtesy USGS.
duplicated only in southern Washington and Northern California.
Four U.S. National Parks in the Cascade Range
• Mount Rainier National Park was established in 1899 as the fourth national park in the United States. The park encompasses 236,381 acres including Mount Rainier, the highest peak in the Cascade range. Approximately 2 million people visit the park annually to explore the complex volcanic ecosystem. The climate and environment at the Park includes lowland forests, wetlands, alpine tundra, and the most glaciated mountain in the contiguous United States with 26 named glaciers. • Crater Lake National Park established in 1902 as the fifth national park
Seismic Network scientists check data on Mount Baker, Washington. in the United States. It is the only national park in Oregon. The park encompasses the caldera of Crater Lake, a remnant of a destroyed volcano, Mount Mazama, and the surrounding hills and forests. • Lassen Volcanic National Park in California was established in 1916 while its namesake peak was erupting. The park includes the most extensive and active thermal areas in the United States outside Yellowstone National Park. The park and Lassen Peak take their name from Peter Lassen, one of the first white settlers in the northern Sacramento Valley. All four types of volcanoes found in the entire world are represented in Lassen Volcanic National Park— shield (Prospect Peak), plug dome (Lassen Peak), Cinder Cone (Cinder Cone), and Composite (Brokeoff Volcano) volcanoes. • North Cascades National Park is located in the state of Washington. The park was established in 1968. It features rugged mountain peaks and protects portions of the North Cascades range. The Cascade Range Volcanoes provide some of the most spectacular mountain views in the continental United States, and are a must see for any North American traveler. Byways • 17
British Columbia’s Fraser Canyon
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Canadian Pacific Railway train crossing Fraser River. Photo courtesy Michael Frei.
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raser Canyon in British Columbia is where the Fraser River descends rapidly through narrow rock gorges of the Coast Mountains en route from the Interior Plateau of British Columbia to the Fraser Valley. The term “Fraser Canyon” is often used to include the Thompson Canyon from Lytton to Ashcroft, since they form the same highway route. The canyon extends 170 miles north of Yale to the confluence of the Chilcotin River. Its southern stretch is a major transportation corridor to the Interior from the coast, with the Canadian National and Canadian Pacific Railways and the Trans-Canada Highway carved out of its rock faces, with many of the canyon’s side-crevasses spanned by bridges and trestles. Prior to the double-tracking of those railways and major upgrades to Highway 1 (the Trans-Canada Highway), travel through the canyon was even more precarious than it is now. During the frontier era it was a major obstacle between the Lower Mainland and the Interior Plateau, and the slender trails along its rocky walls — many of them little better than notches cut into granite, with a few handholds — were compared to goattracks. North of Lytton, it is followed by BC Highway 12, 20 • Byways
The Fraser River at Hell’s Gate, British Columbia. Photo courtesy Jonathan Rodgers.
then from Lillooet to Pavilion by BC Hwy 99, the farther end of the Sea-to-Sky Highway. The British Columbia Railway (the BC Railway is now owned and operated by the CN) line follows the same stretch of canyon from Lillooet to just beyond Pavilion. Between there and the mouth of the Chilcotin River there are only rough ranching roads, and the terrain is a mix of canyon depths flanked by arid benchland and high plateau. Between Pavilion and Lillooet, the river’s gorge is at its maximum depth, with the river throttled through a series of narrow gorges flanked by high cliffs.
Hells Gate
At Hells Gate, near Boston Bar, the canyon walls rise some 3,300 ft above the rapids. Fish ladders along the river’s side permit migrating salmon to bypass a rockslide that diverted the river during the blasting of the Canadian Northern Railway line in 1913. The area around Hell’s Gate carries the name Black Canyon, which may either be a reference to the colour of the rocks when it rains, or the name of a community built on the cliffsides here during the Fraser Canyon Gold Rush. At the site that once housed railway workers, visitors are taken across Hell’s Gate via an aerial tramway. http://www.hellsgateairtram.com
The Fraser Canyon Highway Tunnels were constructed from the spring of 1957 to 1964 as part of the TransCanada Highway project. There are seven tunnels in total, the shortest being about 187 ft; the longest, at 2,000 ft, is one of North America’s longest. They are situated between Yale and Boston Bar. At the mouth of the Canyon, an archaeological site documents the presence of the people in the area from the early Holocene period, 8,000 to 10,000 years ago after the retreat of the Fraser Glacier. Research farther upriver at the Keatley Creek Archaeological Site, near Pavilion, is dated to 8000 BP, when a huge lake filled what is now the canyon above Lillooet, created by a slide a few miles south of the present-day town. During the Fraser Canyon Gold Rush of 1858–1860, 10,500 miners and an untold number of hangers-on populated its banks and towns. The Fraser Canyon War and the series of events known as McGowan’s War occurred during the gold rush. Other important histories connected with the Canyon include the building of the Cariboo Wagon Road and the construction of the Canadian Pacific Railway. The river is navigable between Boston Bar and Lillooet and also between Big Bar Ferry and Prince George and beyond, although rapids at Soda Canyon and elsewhere were still difficult waters for the many steamboats which piloted the river in the 19th and early 20th centuries.
Hell’s Gate Tram. Photo courtesy Hell’s Gate Tram. The Skuzzy was the first sternwheeler to make it through the rapids, which was built with multiple-compartment hulls to preserve it from sinking from rock damage. It was used to haul equipment and supplies during the construction of the Canadian Pacific Railway. The Fraser Canyon Highway was surveyed in 1920 and constructed in 1924–25 with a through-route available after the completion of the Alexandra Suspension Bridge in 1926. This was known as the Cariboo Highway and Highway 1 until the construction of the Trans-Canada Highway in 1962.
Tram view on Hell’s Gate, near Boston Bar, British Columbia, Canada. Photo courtesy Ken Eckert. Byways • 21
Central Catskills Mountains in New York State from Twin South Summit. Photo courtesy Daniel Case.
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New York Brew Your Next Big Beverage, Food and Outdoor Adventure Awaits in the Heart of New York State
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Brew Central, Saranac Brewing. Photo courtesy Brew Central. 24 • Byways
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Brewery Ommegang is known for their specialty Belgian-style ales. Photo courtesy Brew Cental.
estled between the world-famous Adirondack and Catskill Mountains, travelers will find themselves located right in the heart of Central New York. Exploring the eight counties that make up the region will uncover fun for all ages and interests. Nature lovers, foodies, history buffs and even craft beverage enthusiasts will have no trouble creating itineraries jam-packed with activities. Take advantage of a short stay by hopping between counties. Ride down the scenic rolling hills of U.S. Route 20 or take the backroads and cruise along the valleys of Route 11. Everything is close together, so you can savor every moment, sight and taste in Central New York.
Craft an Upstate Brewcation
It’s no surprise that the lush agriculture of Central New York made it ideal for producing 90 percent of the nation’s hops back in the 1800s. It was once the No. 1 beer producer in the U.S. Although Central New York no longer holds the title, the brewing business continues to thrive in Central New York with over 75 breweries, wineries, cideries and distilleries in the region alone. Taste testing your way across the area is an experience any craft beverage lover would not want to miss.
Brew Central encompasses all of Central New York, with each county featuring a variety of their own locally made, fresh flavors. Some notable Brew Central partners include globally recognized Brewery Ommegang and F.X. Matt Brewing/Saranac. Brewery Ommegang is known for their specialty Belgian-style ales and, most recently, their “Game of Thrones” series. The brewery is open for tours and in the summer hosts concerts and camping at their large outdoor venue. Stepping outside, you are surrounded by the breathtaking views of Cooperstown. No trip to “America’s Craft Brew Destination” is complete without stopping by the historic Saranac Brewery. With roots dating back to before Prohibition, the fourthgeneration, family-owned business is one of the largest craft breweries still considered craft. Explore room after room of antiques and artifacts and get a taste of why Saranac’s easy-drinking beers have withstood the test of time.
Find Fresh, Homegrown Goods
You won’t have to look very far to find “fresh” in Central New York. From spring through summer and into fall, u-picks, orchards, farm stands and markets are in full bloom, along with the bright flowers and vibrant foliage of the region. Byways • 25
Aro Adventures. The Hudson River Whitewater rafting trip is a 17 mile wilderness adventure. The Hudson River Gorge is the longest stretch of whitewater in New York and is considered the “Grand Daddy” of all N.Y. rivers.
Nothing says “fresh” like hand-picked fruits and veggies, so why not pick your own to snack on along the way? Get a dining experience like no other at one of many farm-to-table restaurants. Savor the fresh flavors of Central New York from appetizer to entrée at Hamilton’s Good Nature Farm Brewery & Tap Room or Utica’s The Tailor and the Cook, whose menus change frequently based on what’s fresh and in season. A short distance south will lead you to Otsego County, where you can tap into a sweet treat. Watch first-hand how honey is made from blossom to jar at McCoy’s Pure Raw Honey.
Uncover Outdoor Adventure
Along historic U.S. Route 20, passengers will witness the beauty of the region first-hand immediately after the car or motorcoach passes from Albany into Schoharie County. With over 350 miles of trails in the entire region, a little outdoor exploration is absolutely essential, especially in the warmer months. So, no matter where you find yourself in Central New York, hop off the bus or out of the car and experience the splendor of nature, (even if it’s a little chilly outside). Sure, there’s the traditional hiking, golfing and fishing, but there’s also the opportunity to transform the average 26 • Byways
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Absorb the essence of Americana at the Baseball Hall of Fame in historic Cooperstown. trip into a thrilling outdoor adventure. If paddle boarding down the historic Erie Canal, mining for diamonds in Herkimer or exploring Chenango County on horseback (or even snowmobile) sounds like fun, then you’ve come to the right place. There are more than 144 public lands across the region complemented by many waterfalls in places like Madison County’s Chittenango Falls. Adventurers will find solace in the 184,500 acres of outdoor bliss available for the exploring in Central New York. If you’re not the outdoorsy type, a leisurely sunset stroll provides the same picturesque view that will leave you breathless.
History Has Deep Roots in Central New York Lower Chittenango Falls in Madison County. Photo courtesy Art Davis.
A must-see for history buffs is the historic stretch of Old Erie Canal. Voyage along the shores of the historic canal and even get a new perspective from 511 feet in the air at the Mohawk Valley Gateway Overlook in Montgomery. Afraid of heights? Step back in time by visiting canalera monuments like the Verona Beach Lighthouse, still in use more than a century after its construction, and even take a quick dip in New York’s largest inland lake. Absorb the essence of Americana at the Baseball Hall of Fame in historic Cooperstown. Enjoy the Hall of Fame portion, filled with plaques dating back to 1936, Byways • 27
From spring through summer and into fall, upicks, orchards, farm stands and markets are in full bloom, along with the bright flowers and vibrant foliage of the region.
but don’t forget to visit a museum packed with baseball tence. history since its invention, including Babe Ruth’s great Pop culture lovers will relish in the opportunity to visAmerican uniform and every World Series ring in exis- it legendary screenwriter and “Twilight Zone” creator
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Utica’s The Tailor and the Cook menus change frequently based on what’s fresh and in season.
Rod Serling’s hometown of Binghamton. The Bundy Museum of History and Art features exhibits that encapsulate the accomplishments of Binghamton’s own (like the Bundys themselves and Serling). For those looking for a deep dive into the history of the region, explore Mohawk Native American historical sites like the Caughnawaga Indian Museum and Shrine of St. Kateri Tekakwitha. Visitors of all ages and cultures will enjoy the rich tales and artifacts that capture the spirit of the Mohawk Tribe.
It’s Time to Explore!
Ommegang Ale
Cruise down U.S. Route 20 by car or coach and be sure to stop for the farm stands you’ll spot along the road. Take a rest stop at an Old Erie Canal lock, maybe even picnic at a state park or grab a drink at a local brewery. When you reach the intersection of Routes 11 and 20, extend your stay by simply taking a left and heading down to Binghamton. Your next adventure is calling, so pack your bags and grab a map (or app). It’s time to head for Central New York. Whether you’re arriving by car or motorcoach, navigating your way through the picture-perfect getaway has never been easier. So, take the backroads or stick to the historic highways. Just be sure to leave a little room in your itinerary for the spontaneous exploration that awaits around every CNY corner.
The Mohawk Valley Gateway Overlook pedestrian bridge over the Mohawk River. Photo courtesy Timothy Becker.
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Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves hat I am seeing is classic Wy o m i n g – nothing growing out there that's higher than grass. Off to the west is the jagged horizon of the Shirley Mountains. I am on Highway 487 that runs north from Medicine Bow almost to Casper. If there is a true outback in America, this is it. Wyoming is our least populated state with 586,000 people. More people live in Milwaukee. Just beyond the highway’s only rest area, I was stopped by a flagman. Road work ahead. Mine was the only vehicle around, except for a brown UPS truck, parked on the other side of the road. I watched the driver hop off the truck, package in hand, and walk over and gave it to the flagman. They chatted. Then he hopped back in his truck, waved to both of us, and took off toward Medicine Bow. The wait was beginning to drag. So I got out to visit the flagman.
Register Cliff, Wyoming
His name was Ken DeWitt. “UPS brings stuff out here all the time,” he said. “They go by here anyway.” The package was addressed to his boss at Mile Post 45, Highway 487. Traveling the back roads is always fascinating. Who says that a Mile Post number is not a legitimate address? Without a Zip code, however, I am sure the US Postal Service would have a problem with it. Out here private enterprise adapts. Near Casper, I picked up Interstate 25 and headed east, paralleling the North Platte River and the old Oregon Trail. In the mid-1800s, more then 500,000 pioneers passed through this river valley on the trail that rightly bears the names “Oregon,” “California” and “Mormon.” Wherever their ultimate destination, they all headed for, and funneled through, South Pass, west of here – the prairie-like saddle that got them, their livestock and their wagons comfortably over the mountains. With the Continental Divide behind them, they took the separate trails for what are now the states of Oregon, Utah and California. Five miles east of Glenrock, next to County Road 27, is the grave of 19-year-old, Alvah Unthank. It’s on a barren slope of private land, near the North Platt River,
One of the few marked graves along the Oregon Trail. Photos courtesy Bill Graves.
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off by itself, surrounded by brown, prairie grass. In the spring of 1850, he and his family left Wayne County, Indiana, bound for the gold fields of California. On June 23rd, his party reached Register Cliff, near what is now Guernsey, Wyoming. There, in the smooth sandstone of the cliff, he carefully carved his name and the date. Many names were already carved in the rock, as this was common practice for those on the emigrant trail. For some, it was a declaration that they had made the journey. Others hoped their signatures would tell family and friends, who were behind them on the trail, that they were OK and had gotten this far. Alvah’s party made camp here by the river. Alvah had suddenly taken ill with cholera. A friend wrote in his diary: “July 1 Alvah is rapidly sinking. July 2 in the early morning hours, Alvah died.” His father procured a proper stone. “Solomon Woody carved the inscription. At noon July 2, the solemn task of burial took place.” It’s estimated that 5,000 people died on the Oregon Trail during its epoch years, 1840 to 1869. Very few graves are marked. In fact, the pioneers normally obscured grave sites, least animals or Indians violate them. These early Americans, mostly farmers, were really
Highway flagman Ken DeWitt.
not prepared or equipped for this 2,200-mile journey. Still, they came.
South Pass, Wyoming on the Oregon Trail.
About the author: After seeing much of the world as a career naval officer, Bill Graves decided, after he retired, to take a closer look at the United States. He has been roaming the country for 20 years, much of it in a motorhome with his dog Rusty. He lives in Rancho Palos Verdes, California and is the author of On the Back Roads, Discovering Small Towns. of America. He can be reached at Roadscribe@aol.com.
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The Canaan Valley of West Virginia
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The Blackwater River on the Valley floor meanders through Canaan Valley Resort. Photo courtesy Canaan Valley Resort.
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The view from the 4,280 ft. summit thanks to the scenic chair lift ride. Photo courtesy Canaan Valley Resort. elcome to the the scenic Canaan Valley, the highest mountain valley east of the Rockies in wild and wonderful West Virginia. Canaan Valley features extensive wetlands and the headwaters of the Blackwater River which spills out of the valley at Blackwater Falls. It is a well-known and partially undeveloped scenic attraction and popular tourism destination, associated with West Virginia’s Canaan Valley Resort State Park and the Blackwater Falls State Park. Canaan Valley was designated a National Natural Landmark in 1974. The National Park Service citation indicates that the Valley is “a splendid ‘museum’ of Pleistocene habitats ... containing ... an aggregation of these habitats seldom found in the eastern United States. 34 • Byways
The Valley, nestled among the higher ranges of the Allegheny Mountains, is about 13 miles long and from 3 miles to 5 miles wide. It is defined by Canaan Mountain to the west and Cabin Mountain to the east. The Valley encompasses approximately 25,000 acres, although the greater Valley ecosystem is sometimes considered to consist of about 36,000 acres. The average valley floor elevation is 3,200 feet above sea level, making it the highest sizable valley east of the Mississippi River. The surrounding mountains extend upward an additional 1,250 feet to 4,450 ft. at the summit of Weiss Knob on the southeastern rim of the valley. The Blackwater River originates in the southern part of the Valley. The Falls of the Blackwater represent part of a water gap through which the river exits the Valley
between Brown and Canaan Mountains before cascading through Blackwater Canyon. The first whites to see Canaan Valley were likely the surveyors of the famous Fairfax Line who crossed Canaan Mountain in 1746 under conditions of extreme difficulty. According to a local tradition, a German settler named Henry Fansler, who was migrating from the Shenandoah Valley, viewed the valley from Cabin Mountain in April 1800 and exclaimed “Besiehe das Land Canaan”—“Behold the Land of Canaan”. Fansler and his family hacked out a living on Freeman Creek in the Valley for three years before the harsh winters and poor farming potential forced them to move to the mouth of the Blackwater a few miles away. The rugged and remote “High Allegheny” region, including the Valley, was bypassed by development for many decades. As large-scale settlement occurred to its north, south and west the region remained relatively wild.
Logging and wildfires
Logging of the surrounding mountains was extensive in the 1880s and '90s, but impenetrable understories of rhododendron made passage through the Valley floor almost impossible until the advent of a logging railroad in 1915. The productivity of the timber stands extracted from the Valley floor between 1888 and 1922, when the last virgin timber was removed, was twice that of similar stands within the state. In 1920, the southern third of the Valley was included in the newly established Monongahela National Forest, the first attempt to restore the forests that the previous generation had cut down. The logging railroads in the Valley were abandoned, then the rails were pulled up in 1925. The outside world intruded again in 1932, however, in the form of West Virginia Route 32 which bisects the southern end of the Valley, connecting Davis to
Main entrance to Canaan Valley Resort, a West Virginia State Park.
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Early morning at the ski lodge, with Bald Knob in the background. Photo courtesy Canaan Valley Resort.
Harman. This is the only north-south highway in the was developing ski slopes on the Valley side of Bald Valley and it was along this route that the later develop- Knob of Cabin Mountain. Within the decade, a 3,600ment of the 20th century occurred. foot slope on Cabin Mountain and a 3,900 feet slope on Weiss Knob had been developed. Because of its protecSki Club of Washington tion from the sun, snow on that side of the mountain Beginning in 1950, the Ski Club of Washington, DC often remains until April or later.
Canaan Valley Resort 36 • Byways
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The Monongahela National Forest. Photo taken from slopes of Back Allegheny Mountain looking east. Photo courtesy Valerius Tygart.
In the early 1970s, Canaan Valley Resort State Park was created at the southern end of the Valley to further develop a ski industry in the state. An 18-hole golf course was also constructed there at this time.
National Wild Life Refuge
In 1994, about 86 acres of the Valley were purchased by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service to establish a National Wildlife Refuge. Today the Canaan Valley National Wildlife Refuge is almost 17,000 acres. The Valley’s unique climatic and natural features attract a steady flow of outdoor visitors. Camping, hiking, fishing (trout, bass), cross-country and downhill skiing, leaf-peeping, and wildlife viewing are popular outdoor activities. Upland game bird hunting (wood-
cock, ruffed grouse, common snipe, wild turkey) has long been popular in the Valley and is still permitted, even in the NWR, within season. In addition to the two state parks and one wildlife refuge, the valley is home to the two Alpine ski resorts. Canaan Valley Ski Resort https://www.canaanresort.com Timberline Four Seasons Resort http://timberlineresort.com
Nordic ski area (White Grass Touring Center) http://www.whitegrass.com
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T
Gateway Arch National Park Announced
he National Park Service has announced that The Riverboats Cruise into Spring Travel through time on a replica 19th century paddleJefferson National Expansion Memorial in St. wheel riverboat. Day or night, the Riverboats at the Louis is now Gateway Arch National Park, home Gateway Arch offer stunning skyline views that have of the internationally recognized Gateway Arch! The mission of the park Visitors wait for their trams to arrive to remains the same: The stories the Top of the Gateway Arch in St. Louis. of Thomas Jefferson and his vision of westward expansion Photo courtesy Gateway Arch. are woven throughout the new Museum at the Gateway Arch. Don't wait to visit — the Tram Ride to the Top of the Gateway Arch is taking visitors up daily and the Old Courthouse is currently showcasing Dred Scott and his freedom suit. 38 • Byways
A view of the Old Courthouse and Gateway Arch from Kiener Plaza at Gateway Arch National Park in St. Louis. Photo courtesy Gateway Arch.
been voted Best in St. Louis. With a variety of sightseeing, dinner, and specialty outings to choose from, a riverboat cruise makes a unique and relaxing way to experience the Gateway Arch and downtown St. Louis. Brought to the St. Louis riverfront in 1964, the Becky Thatcher and the Tom Sawyer were originally used
river to view the construction of the Gateway Arch. While the city may have changed since then, the views of the Gateway Arch are as impressive as ever.
g n i n e p p a H s ’ t a h W to take curious sightseers out on the
Visit gatewayarch.com to discover all of the ways you can enjoy St. Louis’ only urban national park.
View of St. Louis from the top of the Arch. Photo courtesy Gateway Arch.
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Opryland Nashville SoundWaves
A
An artists rendition of SoundWaves. Photos courtesy Opryland Resort.
SoundWaves will feature 111,000 square feet of indoor $90 million water park at the Gaylord Opryland Resort is scheduled to open this fall. Ryman water attractions and another 106,000 square feet of outHospitality Properties says the park will be door attractions. Some of the other features include a named SoundWaves and is going to have a music theme. lazy river, an adults-only pool and a 315,000 gallon wave pool.
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Opryland Atrium
The park will only be open to hotel guests. Officials say the goal is to bring in tourists and not compete with the existing water park in Nashville that’s open to locals. It will be a year-round indoor attraction including an indoor slide tower with slides ranging from 32-to-46-feet tall, a double flow rider, rapid and lazy rivers, an activity pool with rock climbing and more features to be announced as the project progresses. Seasonal outdoor features include a 315,000 gallon wave pool with a giant LED movie screen, a 45.5-foot slide tower, an adults-only pool and a kids pool with a multi-level play structure. SoundWaves will have dedicated indoor and outdoor recreation zones for adults, young children and families, as well as dining options and private cabana rentals. Adult guests will have exclusive access to adults-only indoor and outdoor pools, bars and lounging areas throughout the complex. The indoor attractions will be enclosed under a soaring atrium.
r Video o f k c i l C
Inside view of SoundWaves.
In addition to attracting some of the growing number of group and leisure travelers visiting the Music City, the goal is that the water park could inspire business travelers and convention-goers to bring their families along for an extended work trip. Opryland Resort & Conference Center Opryland Resort & Conference Center, Nashville.
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Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America. Byways is emailed to more than 4000 tour operators /Travel Trade through the Internet. Subscriptions are complimentary. An iPad & iPhone version is available for consumers in iTunes in the App Store. An Android browser version is available at www.issuu.com/byways. Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, selected travel agents, bank travel managers, school band and athletic planners, meeting planners and the travel trade. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine at 502-785-4875. ©Copyright 2018 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher. Editor and Publisher Stephen M. Kirchner
Advertising Director 502-785-4875
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Advertisers Index Chillicothe Visitors Bureau, Ohio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Jamestown, American Revolution Museum at Yorktown, Virginia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Little Falls Convention &Visitors Bureau, Minnesota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Randolph County, West Virginia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Spectrum. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Springfield Tourism, Kentucky. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
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