Wine Press Northwest Winter 2015 by Wine Press Northwest

BEST OF THE BEST PLATINUM JUDGING RESULTS

W I NTER 2 0 1 5

W I NE P RE S S NW.C OM

EXPLORING PORTLAND’S URBAN WINE SCENE

U.S. $5

Canada $6 1 2>

74470 94059

The Prosser Vintner’s Village

Where a hub of wineries in the heart of Washington Wine Country's Yakima Valley has emerged as an exciting destination for wine enthusiasts. It's a pedestrianfriendly village where wine lovers can taste wines in 6 individual wineries plus boutique wineries in The Winemaker's Loft. Add a stop at the Yellow Rose Nursery filled with plants & garden supplies plus personal service.

Winter Events! Thurston Wolfe - Carol VonStubbe, a regular featured artist, works with shadow boxes and Ed Maske with his Indian bracelets and necklaces. The Bunnell Family Wine Bar, Wine O’Clock - Custom food and wine pairing menus by appointment, reservations recommended for á la carte wining and dining. December

• 31 - January 14 - Bunnell - Annual closure, reopening January 15

January

• 15 – 16 - Coyote Canyon Winery - Five year anniversary with Nectar tasting room in Spokane • 16 - McKinley Springs - Library Tour and Tasting 3-5pm. Sample and purchase vintages from winery library. • 30 - Coyote Canyon Winery - Winemaker’s Dinner at Fat Olives

February

(509) 786-2392

www.martinezwine.com

• 6 - Airfield Estates Winery - 2nd Annual Shopping Extravaganza 11am-5pm. Over 25 vendors featuring their products along with fantastic wine sales. • 12 - McKinley Springs - Brush On! Sip and Paint 5:30pm • 13 – 14 - Red Wine and Chocolate Weekend at participating wineries. Reservations are appreciated at some wineries. Visit individual winery websites or wineyakimavalley.org for more information. • 13-14 - Bunnell - St. Valentine’s Day Celebration. Five course dinner with optional wine pairings 4-8pm. • 20 - Coyote Canyon Winery - Wine Blending Class with Justin Michaud • 26 – 27 - McKinley Springs - Dinner Theatre featuring Western Theme Melodrama 6pm

March (509) 788-0030

www.milbrandtvineyards.com

• 5 - McKinley Springs - Spring Wine Club Release and Party 3pm-6pm • 12 - Coyote Canyon Winery - Prosser Wine Club Party • 20 - Bunnell - “Sunday Supper” to celebrate the first day of spring.

Please call or check individual web sites for more winter events.

WINE PRESS

VOL. 17, NO. 4

Winter 2015

NORTHWEST FEAT U RES

D E PARTME NTS

14 72 Hours Touring Portland’s Urban Wine Scene 22 Woodinville: A Blended Wine Community 28 16th Annual Platinum Judging: Determining the “Best of the Best” in the Pacific Northwest 50 Brian Carter Cellars Rhône-style Red Top Wine at Tri-Citie s Wine Festival 55 Wineries With Fireplaces Take The Chill Out of Winter Tasting

Wine Knows Kiss French, drink local

A Distant Perspective Opening the Market

10 Swirl, Sniff & Sip New wine varieties invade the Northwest wine world

58 Northwest Wine Events 70 Grapes of Roth Cabernet Franc is the Zeus (or Hera) of the grape world

62 Match Makers

Columbia Gorge fishing helps Skamania Lodge hook young chef

On the cover: Adirondack chairs on the patio at Skamania Lodge Photo by Richard Duval 4

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WINEPRESSNW.COM

Wine Press Northwest is for those with an interest in wine — from the novice to the veteran. We focus on Washington, Oregon and Idaho’s talented winemakers and the wineries, vintners and restaurants that showcase Northwest wines. We are dedicated to all who savor the fruits of their labor. Editor and Publisher: Gregg McConnell 509-582-1443 gmcconnell@winepressnw.com Contributor: Jon Bauer Contributor: Eric Degerman

Contributor: Jade Helm Contributor: Andy Perdue Contributor: Dan Radil Tasting panel: Dan Berger, Kristine Bono, Ellen Landis, Gregg McConnell, April Reddout, H. Parks Redwine III, Ken Robertson, Coke Roth, Paul Sinclair, Heather Unwin,

Graphic designer: Misty Baker Columnists: Dan Berger, Andy Perdue, Ken Robertson, Coke Roth, Contributing photographers: Richard Duval Zacchoreli Frescobaldi-Grimaldi Mark E.Helm In memoriam: Bob Woehler Advertising sales: Carol Perkins, 509-582-1438 E-mail: cperkins@winepressnw.com To subscribe: Subscriptions cost $20 U.S. per year for four issues. Mail check, money order or credit card number and expiration date to address below or subscribe securely on our web site www.winepressnw.com Subscriptions and customer service: 800-538-5619, e-mail: info@winepressnw.com Free weekly newsletter: Sign up for our free Pacific Northwest Wine of the Week e-mail newsletter at winepressnw.com Address: 333 W. Canal Drive Kennewick, WA 99336 © 2015 Wine Press Northwest A Tri-City Herald publication W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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the wine knows BY ANDY PERDUE

Kiss French, drink local

hen I give presentations about the Washington wine industry, I often conclude with this trivia question: Out of every 100 bottles of wine sold in Washington, how many are made in Washington? In other words, what is the Washington wine industry's market share in its own state? The answer always shocks the audience. According to the latest studies, it's around 25 percent. Consider this: In California, about 70 percent of the wine sold is California wine. In traditional Old World countries, it's pretty much 100 percent. In fact, go to some little hilltown in Tuscany and walk into a restaurant or store: You will struggle to find a wine that was made from farther than about 10 miles away. So why is it that just one in four bottles of wine sold in Washington is made here. What can we do to fix it? What should we do? This is a difficult task, but we need to remember that not too many years ago, this number was around 18 percent, so improvements are being made. There are many ways to look at the issue of Washington wine's market share at home. Here are a few of my thoughts: • This is not necessarily a bad thing. I'm often asked how much bigger the Washington wine industry can get. Is it already oversaturated? Have we run out of room? In my mind, the issue of market share helps answer that. The Washington wine industry can produce approximately three times as much wine and still not saturate the market. There's lots of room for more vineyards, more wineries, more growth. The state has more than 60,000 acres, and that could grow by at least 50 percent and probably still not make it too big. If consumers are still buying that much California and imported wines, then the home team can get bigger to slake that thirst. • We'll never top 70 percent. According to author and retired University of Puget Sound professor Mike Veseth ("The Wine

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • W i n t e r 2 015

Economist"), about 30 percent of all wine sold is the low-end stuff, the wine in boxes and jugs that is on the bottom shelf at grocery and liquor stores. This is where Franzia and Gallo live. This is where all that wine from California's Central Valley goes. Washington can't afford to make wine this cheap, nor should it try. The folks who buy inexpensive bag-in-a-box or Gallo "chablis" are not going to pay $10 for a nice bottle of 14 Hands. Well, they might eventually. So let's leave the low-end stuff to California and, to a lesser extent, Australia and southern France. Washington should be competing with the likes of Napa, Sonoma, Bordeaux and Mosel. We're in the big leagues now. • We need to export. Some criticism has been directed through the years at the Washington State Wine Commission for its focus on selling more wine in markets far away from the Puget Sound, including Florida, Minnesota, New York and other far-flung locations. With in-state market share being so low, wouldn't it make sense to spend more marketing dollars and effort on getting more people in Washington to drink more Washington wine? Yes, perhaps. But it isn't that easy. Washington state makes world-class wine and now enjoys a sliver of space on the world wine stage. It needs to play in that field if it wants to keep — and grow — that reputation. Washington needs to sell more wine at home, but it also needs to be in big national markets, including Florida, New York, Illinois, Texas, D.C., etc. • Washingtonians already buy most of our best wines. It’s a nice sentiment, and frankly, it already happens. For example, most of the 20-plus wineries lining the shores of Lake Chelan sell nearly every bottle directly to consumers. This is great for the wineries because they make more money per bottle that way. But it also means that nobody on the East Coast knows anything about Lake Chelan because nobody ever sees those wines.

The same thing happens with many topend Walla Walla wineries: Everything is sold directly to walk-in consumers or wine club members. So this is good for business, but it's not great for building Washington as a wine brand. • Forget all that foreign stuff ? Not really. It's nice to think local and buy local, but we really should taste other regions' wines once in awhile. If we want to understand just how good our Cabernet Sauvignon is, we should taste similar wines from Napa Valley, Bordeaux and Australia. There's nothing worse than having a "house palate" because we then see little reason to improve. The solution is to drink and enjoy wines from around the world. But keep portion control in mind: For every 10 bottles of Cab you buy, just make seven or eight of them from Washington. • When you eat out, ask for Washington wine. This is the best thing we can do. If you're in a nice restaurant in Seattle or Bellingham or Spokane and the list is light on local choices, bring that up in a courteous way. If the prices are too high, offer suggestions for lower-priced options. If the restaurant owner hears this enough, the wine list will start to change. If not, bring your own wine with you — and make sure it's from Washington. is the wine columnist for The Seattle Times and editor and publisher of Great Northwest Wine, an award-winning news and information company. Learn more about wine at www.greatnorthwestwine.com.

ANDY PERDUE

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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a distant perspective BY DAN BERGER

Opening the Market

ne of the key reasons Starbucks is so successful has nothing to do with coffee, or coffee quality. Nor has it anything to do with the coffee culture it created in its hundreds of stores worldwide. It has to do with branding. To be sure, that familiar green logo is to the 21st century what the Howard Johnson billboard, the McDonald’s golden arches, or Texaco service station images were to those brands in the 1960s. More than anything else, what Starbucks did to etch into granite its worldwide image of a friendly weigh station in which to grab a cup of joe was to offer the broadest visibility it could by opening literally dozens of stores in major cities. It became a go-to place. Many cities have better coffee houses, but if you’re from out of town, Starbucks is where you go. I witnessed this visibility issue 25 years ago when I agreed to meet a colleague at the Starbucks on Wacker Drive in Chicago for a breakfast meeting. I arrived on time. He didn’t show. After 20 minutes, knowing of his punctuality, I asked the clerk if there was another Starbucks nearby. He said there was one half a block away. (He was there.) There are many Starbucks locations, if you hadn’t noticed. A decade after my Chicago episode, Jay Leno delivered one of his best lines: “Congress just passed a new law that prohibits Starbucks from putting another Starbucks inside an existing Starbucks.” And this relates to wine how? Imagine you are a Pacific Northwest winery making superb wines, as verified by solid tasting room sales, gold medals at wine competitions, and accolades from local and national magazines, and on the web. And you have local visibility. Now imagine that you are hoping to increase sales by buying additional grapes and making a bit more wine. But the 2008-2012 recession (not yet fully over, according to some economists) and other marketing considerations have set back your plans. Even your plan to expand sales to major U.S. markets has stalled. To do so is risky. Marketing an additional 10,000 cases of wine entails financial risk. Your $50 Cabernet

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Sauvignon, which earns about $50 when you sell it out of the tasting room, might earn a net of $15 or $20 when you contract with a wholesale company to sell the added volume for you. What to do? What follows isn’t a solution, but could be valid for some wineries. And it calls for a strategy that could initially be costly, but which may have long-term positive implications for not only you, but the entire Northwest region, and all its sub-regions. It is to go national without a wholesaler. I think we’d all agree that Pacific Northwest wineries have limited national visibility, but make stellar wines. Wineries are in a unique position to be able to set up direct-to-retailer and direct-torestaurant agreements as long as they adhere to the regulations of the other states. Make your wines visible in places where they can be seen for what they are – great wines from exotic regions (be it Snake River, Ancient Lakes, or the Umpqua Valley). There is a kind of “coffee mystique” that glorifies the coffee culture of Seattle when a Starbuck’s opens in Sheboygan, just as a Snake River Tempranillo being offered in one of Sheboygan’s top restaurants, such as Lino Ristorante Italiano, casts a positive light on the exotic wine culture of Idaho. How does such a thing occur? It has to be a carefully laid-out plan starting by identifying a city the winery owner or spouse has a fondness for, or perhaps went to high school in. and might like to go back to for a visit, such as for a high-school reunion or a family function. Say it’s Sheboygan. You have always wanted to go back and visit old friends, and you already know something about the town. First, learn all about the licensing and tax issues regarding sending commercial amounts of wine to Wisconsin (any number of compliance companies will help with this). Next find out something about the retail and restaurant wine-buying patterns. What are people buying? Call and speak to restaurant owners, wine retailers, the local wine columnist (if any) or newspaper food editor.

Search the web for help. Then plan a five-day trip there. Here is where the real expense comes in for such things as air fare, rental car, hotel room, meals – but since it’s a sales trip, the tax implications are obvious. Just keep good records. Imagine you get Lino and Therese at Lino Ristorante Italiano in Sheboygan to take two cases of your Syrah, Tempranillo, or Pinot Blanc. Are you making any real money yet? No. But this is just step one. Lino’s is an Italian restaurant, and part of your agreement with Lino and Therese is that you will not offer your wines to any other Italian place in Sheboygan. This leaves you free to make an agreement with Rupps Downtown to sell your Cabernet Sauvignon only to them, the only Sheboygan steak house with your wine. If Rupps takes two cases of your Cabernet, the trip has paid for itself, and since you have already paid your compliance fees for Wisconsin, additional sales in other cities there make sense. Assume you now get a Platinum medal for your dessert wine. You may now call Lino and Rupps and tell them that nice little fact. And having your wines visible in a far-flung area helps with future sales trips. Medals at wine competitions can be great sales tools. Chicago and New York, Miami and Houston are more difficult markets to attack, but remember: You control your own destiny with this slow start-up campaign. Moreover you learn as you go. Your family reunion trip may not prove successful the first time, but it beats flying to Sheboygan with no plan. The more Pacific Northwest wines are seen on a national stage, the more people will take Oregon and Idaho Riesling, Washington Merlot, and British Columbia Pinot Gris seriously. DAN BERGER is a nationally renowned wine writer who lives in Santa Rosa, Calif. He publishes a weekly column Dan Berger’s Vintage Experiences (VintageExperiences.com).

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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swirl, sniff & sip

New wine varieties invade the Northwest wine world

nnovation is the byword in Northwest world of wine as we enter 2016, which means it’s been more than 40 years since the start of our region’s modern wine era. New varietals pop up almost faster than we can learn to pronounce them, let alone understand just where they originated, what they should taste and smell like and what foods pair best with them. The Northwest’s winemakers and grape growers have spent much of the past decade presenting us with an ever-burgeoning array of new wine varieties, from Italy’s elegant white Arneis to Austria’s robust red Zweigelt. Just when you thought you had learned to really enjoy Tempranillo, the signature grape of Spanish red wine, along came that nation’s favorite white wine, Albariño, and then the lovely red Graciano. And these aren’t likely to be the last we Northwesterners will hear of Spain. Even such ever-dependable French varietals as Cabernet, Merlot and Chardonnay are being supplemented by such white varietals as Picpoul, Muscadelle, Melon de Bourguignon and Viognier. Then there is Mouvédre/Monastrell/Mataro. Should we call this worldtraveler of a vine by its French, Spanish or Australian/California title? And then there is Italy, a land where you could spend five years tasting a different varietal every day before running out of new experiences. And that assumes you would agree that a grape with two accepted and common names — for example the white wines Pigato from Liguria and Vermentino from Sardinia — really are the same tasting experience. It wasn’t always this way. Back in the late 1970s and early 1980s, we Northwesterners had a rather stable list of choices and preferences: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc, usually labeled Fumé Blanc back then. Many of us didn’t really want to hear about anything else. At one of the early Tri-Cities Wine Festival events, I can recall a winemaker who looked at me as if I hadn’t showered in a week after 10

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I’d commented that I rather liked another winery’s nicely made Chenin Blanc and was surprised it merited only a bronze medal. “Well,” he sniffed, “that’s not really a premium grape. It’s just second tier.” Such attitudes lingered for a couple decades, driving out well-made wines that our region’s wine drinkers were not ready to accept and unwilling to try to pronounce. Gewürztraminer, Grenache, Semillon, Chenin Blanc and even Sauvignon Blanc all fell victim to this narrow view. In the industry’s start-up days, some of these acres soon were replaced with vines from the popular crowd. Grenache, which Chateau Ste. Michelle had planted in the Horse Heaven Hills near its new Paterson winery (later rebranded and renamed Columbia Crest), practically disappeared, even though the wines made with those grapes were excellent. Some of our winery pioneers persevered, sometimes by switching their winemaking styles. For nearly 40 years now, Kiona Vineyards and Winery has produced a delightful Lemberger, a red wine from Austria, where it’s often called Blaufrånkisch. Kiona also transitioned its Chenin Blanc into an ice wine and its Sauvignon Blanc into a late harvest style dessert wine. Most of our Northwest Gewürtraminers became semi-sweet and sweet wines designed to attract newcomers to wine and ideal for a summer patio-sipper. Only a few Alsatianstyle, highly aromatic dry Gewürtraminers remain. And now that many of us have discovered the delights of curry with our chicken, lamb and tofu, both styles make an excellent accompaniment that can replace our ever-present Riesling. Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc now are often blended into a perfect match for oysters on the half shell. Or vinified separately for a perfect accompaniment for oysters and almost any lighter seafood as well. The once-ignored Grenache now gets top billing as the lead grape in Grenache-SyrahMouvedré (GSM) blends and is available as a straight varietal bottling as well. In fact, many

BY KEN ROBERTSON

wine lovers believe the blended Rhone reds have the potential to rival the Bordeauxstyled blends we embraced over the past decades. With an industry that now counts more than 60,000 acres of grapes in Washington and 20,000 more in Oregon, with 870 wineries in Washington, 676 in Oregon, 322 in British Columbia and 52 in Idaho, there’s plenty of room for experimentation — in growing new varieties, in finding new styles, in winemaking and in creating food pairings. Expect the next decade to bring wine adventures no one could have anticipated when the 21st century started. Wine words: Remontage, Pigeage Let’s be frank. English tends to be a blunt language that often verges on monosyllabic. Ah, but French sort of rolls off the tongue — much like good wine — fairly bulging with polysyllabic words that betray its heritage as a Romance language. For when we translate remontage to English, its elegance disappears into pumpover. And pigeage turns into punchdown. The romance seemingly turns into the gruntwork of farming and boxing. Regardless of the language, both are key parts of the winemaking process and help turn red wine grapes into complex, full-bodied, deeply colored wines. Their purpose is to bring the fermenting juice of crushed grapes into increased contact with grape skins. As fermentation occurs, the yeast release carbon dioxide as they turn the natural sugars into alcohol. The CO2 helps carry the skins to the top of the fermentation tank, separating them from the juice. Punching down this cap (manta in French) with poles both releases the CO2 and pokes the skins back down into the juice and breaks clumps of skins apart, exposing the juice to more skin contact. Similarly, pumpover takes wine from the bottom of a tank and pumps it onto the top of the skins, achieving much the same effect. has been sipping Northwest wines and writing about them since 1976.

KEN ROBERTSON

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W i n t e r 2 015 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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nom de vine

Nom de vine: Stories behind wine names

Ste. Michelle’s Tenet turns Syrah on its head BY JON BAUER SPECIAL TO WINE PRESS NORTHWEST

his column doesn’t usually offer spoiler alerts, but those who enjoy discovering oddities on wine labelsfor themselves had better stop here before ordering a bottle of Tenet at a restaurant. Didn’t think you could wait. Read on. The more observant might see it quickly, but it becomes obvious once the bottle is turned upside-down to drain the last drop of the GSM blend: The wine’s name, spelled out in a calligraphy-like script, reads the same right-side-up or upside-down. The Tenet label uses an ambigram — the typographical cousin of the palindrome, a word spelled the same forward or backward — a word or phrase that, usually through some clever type design, reads the same when turned on its head. Yes, it’s a marketing device but one with a legitimate mission, said Ryan Pennington, director of communications for Chateau Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. Despite critical acclaim and success, particularly in Washington, Syrah remains a tough sell, Pennington said, much of it because of the variety’s ability, like Pinot Noir, to take on different reflections depending on where its grapes are grown and how it’s made. “It can be big and ripe like an Australian or Californian style, or lean, meaty and elegant like a northern Rhône, and every point in between,” Pennington said. Ste. Michelle wanted to launch a project that would bring attention to Washington Syrah by capitalizing on that range and challenging assumptions about the variety. A chance reunion in a Hong Kong men’s room got the project rolling, Pennington explains. In the 1980s, Chateau Ste. Michelle imported a little Bordeaux wine from France

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and developed relationships there with winemakers and vineyards. But when it decided to concentrate its winemaking in the Northwest, it stopped importing wine and ended those relationships. But 30 years later, Ste. Michelle’s CEO Ted Baseler bumped into one of the winemakers the winery had worked with, Michel Gassier, in a restaurant men’s room during a wine fair in Hong Kong. With Ste. Michelle wanting to make a statement with the Rhône variety and Washington Syrah, the relationship was rekindled, Pennington said. Joining Gassier in the project is Ste. Michelle head winemaker Bob Berthau and French enology consultant Philippe Cambie. Production might have started with the 2012 vintage. But as good as that year was for Syrah, Pennington said, the trio decided to wait until the 2013 vintage when Gassier and Cambie could participate in designating vineyard blocks so the project could start from the terroir up. Three wines are being made under the Tenet brand, two of them from Washington grapes, the third from grapes from the Rhône Valley’s southern-most appellation, Costières de Nîmes. The namesake Tenet is a blend of 40 percent Grenache, 35 percent Syrah and 25 percent Mourvèdre. The Pundit, with a pen-nib-beaked ow staring from the bottle, lets the Syrah star at 94 percent with 3 percent Grenache, 2 percent Mourvèdre and 1 percent Viognier cofermented with Syrah. The import, Le Fervent, dueling full-combed roosters arranged like playing card Jacks on its label, is 91 percent Rhône Valley Syrah, 6 percent

Visit www.tenetwines.com

Grenache, 2 percent Mourvèdre and 3 percent Viognier. The ‘13s have just been released, the ‘14s have been blended and bottled at Ste. Michelle’s Canoe Ridge facility in Paterson, and crush was just completed for the ‘15s. Tenet is being sold primary in regional restaurants, where the ambigram has already resulted in some dining room buzz as it’s noticed on the table and in wine racks. “There’s been a fantastic response to the labels and the wine,” Pennington said. So which came first, the name or the typographical trick? The name, Tenet, which conveys the winery’s belief in Syrah, came first out of a brain dump among in-house staff and an outside agency, Pennington said. It didn’t take long after the name was selected to see the word’s label possibilities. The calligraphy gives it a classic look fit for a fine restaurant, but there’s some fun there. “There’s a little gamesmanship in the branding design, an Easter Egg effect, something to hunt for,” Pennington said. “But the most gratifying comment is it doesn’t look like anything else in (Ste. Michelle’s) portfolio.” Certainly not when you turn it upsidedown.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

W H AT ’ S YO U R

Complement your Red Wine & Chocolate weekend with an evening of Yakima Valley’s highest-rated wines!

Friday, Feb. 12 | 6-9pm Yakima Country Club Red Wine & Chocolate is Feb. 13–15, 2016 Purchase tickets to both events and save!

Tickets available at

www.wineyakimavalley.org or Stems Wine Shop

WINEPRESSN W .C O M

Wint e r 2 0 1 5 • Wine Pre s s N o r thwest

72 HOURS

TOURING PORTLAND’S URBAN WINE SCENE // BY ANDY PERDUE

The beloved white stag sign became a City of Portland historic landmark in 1977. Photo courtesy of www.travelportland.com

ust as another great West Coast city is blessed with full-fledged wine country about an hour from its downtown core, Portland also has begun to develop into an international wine destination, thanks to the nearby Willamette Valley. Now an intrepid group of winemakers is hoping enough wine lovers will forego the bucolic backroads of Yamhill County and the seemingly endless vineyards and instead stay in the city to explore their version of Oregon wine country. This is the PDX urban wine scene, and it is rich with quality, its own vibe and great cuisine. “I don’t know that the romance of the vines is necessary for coming to wine country,” said Ed Fus, owner and winemaker of Angel Vine, who this year relocated from the Yamhill County town of Carlton to southeastern Portland. “In the short time we’ve 14

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been open, a lot of people want to be able to watch something. At our place, the watching is the winemaking.” Fus, who brings in grapes from both Oregon and Washington, said his new customers love the idea of watching winemaking in progress, and they pepper him with questions: “What’s that machine do?” and “Why do you use oak barrels?” “More than anything, people want to be connected to the person who’s making the wine,” Fus said. “You don’t necessarily have to have the vineyard landscape with all of the cool trees. There are some beautiful places out in wine country, but I don’t know that

you need them to be a successful winery.” For Fus, being in the city provides him all kinds of advantages. First of all, he no longer needs to make the one-hour commute from his home in Portland out to Carlton. And it saves him more than an hour of driving when he heads to Washington’s Columbia Valley to bring home Zinfandel and Petite Sirah. “For me, it was a big improvement,” he said. “It is better in all regards.” In many ways, Portland and San Francisco are similar. Both have a vibrant restaurant scene. Both are about an hour’s drive to wineries (Napa Valley can take a bit longer, depending on traffic). Both have busy airports and are easily reached from just about anywhere in the country. Fus and his wife, Laureen O’Brien, are part of Urban Crush Winery, which is home to three other wineries: D’Anu Wines, Willful Wine Co. and Cinzia. They are a short drive WINEPRESSNW.COM

or modest walk away from the center of Portland and its hotel district. Even closer is Southeast Wine Collective, an urban winemaking facility that is home to 10 wineries and a tasting room that pours as many as 30 wines from those brands at any given time. It was launched in 2012 by Tom Monroe of Division Wine Co. and has become a big success. “It’s definitely a very good thing for our local customers who live in Portland and want to dip their toes into what wine tasting is about,” Monroe said. “We also get a lot of visitors from out of town who are visiting Oregon. Wine isn’t their focus, but they want to do a half-day of wine tasting.” Monroe is the first to admit that wine touring in an urban setting is much different than heading out to wine country. “My dad’s crowd grew up on Napa Valley,” he said. “They were used to seeing big estate wineries surrounded by vineyards. I WINEPRESSN W .C O M

acknowledge that if that has been your entire wine-tasting experience, this is different.” Monroe attracts a lot of customers who are unlikely to drive down to the Willamette Valley. “That’s not on their list of things to do,” he said. “We see a lot of customers who want to come experience wine but perhaps have a lack of confidence. They don’t want to feel stupid.” But in the urban setting, such customers have a greater sense of confidence in asking questions. And they rarely ask about where the vineyards are, he said. “That conversation never takes place,” he said. “The winery itself is built in glass, so you can see everything that is going on. We’re transparent about our entire process.” Monroe said that because customers can see the process, they feel more comfortable and confident in their wine tasting experience. And that helps with sales, too. Urban

winemakers are much more reliant on directto-consumer sales, which nets the winery a higher percentage of the sale of the bottle because it isn’t having to pay the distributor. Monroe said that of the 10 wineries in Southeast Wine Collective, eight rely almost exclusively on direct-to-consumer sales. “We definitely depend on that approach,” he said. If you are planning to head to Portland, here is a quick guide of where to taste and where to eat. Most Portland urban wineries are clustered together, so touring could not be much simpler than catching a train, bus, taxi or Uber, then settling in for a couple of hours of sipping and enjoying the atmosphere.

URBAN CRUSH Based in southeastern Portland, Urban Crush is about a 30-minute walk from the hotel district or a short drive (depending on Wint e r 2 0 1 5 • Wine Pre s s N o r thwest

FEATURE

portland

whether the drawbridge is up or down). It is open noon to 7 p.m. Thursday through Saturday and noon to 5 p.m. Sunday. The address is 2025 S.E. 7th Ave. Here are the member wineries: Angel Vine: With a focus on Zinfandel

and bold red wines using Washington grapes, Angel Vine is one of the newest members of the Portland urban wine scene, having arrived in July 2015. It began in 2007 and produces about 2,000 cases annually. D’Anu: Owner Joe Williams comes from

the restaurant business, where he worked for 30 years. He features Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and red blends. Willful Wines: Owner Pam Walden’s passion is for Pinot Noir, but she also produces small amounts of other wines, including Tempranillo and a white blend. Cinzia: This is the latest addition to Urban Crush. In addition to Pinot Noir, Cinzia also produces wines in the Italian appassimento style, which means the grapes are dried before being crushed.

SOUTHEAST WINE COLLECTIVE

Since its beginning in 1992, the Portland Farmers Market has grown to include more than 250 vendors at six sites across the city. Photo courtesy of www.travelportland.com

Less than two miles from Urban Crush, Southeast Wine Collective is home to 10 wineries. It is open 4 to 10 p.m. Monday and Wednesday through Friday; 1 to 10 p.m. Saturday; and 1 to 8 p.m. Sunday. It is at 2425 S.E. 35th Place. Here are the wineries: 51 Weeks. Matt and Nancy Vuylsteke make tiny amounts of different varieties. Matt describes himself as a “farm to cork” winemaker. Division Winemaking Co. Run by Tom Monroe and Kate Norris, Division focuses on delicious Pinot Noir, Gamay Noir and

Enso Urban Winery & Wine Bar Photo courtesy of www.travelportland.com

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portland Chardonnay. Their efforts led them to be named Wine Press Northwest magazineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 2015 Oregon Winery to Watch. Fullerton Wines focuses on the two main grapes of Burgundy: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It is owned and operated by Alex Fullerton. Gersing Cellars is run by Jason Gersing, a professional musician as well as winemaker. He produces a wide variety of wines, focusing on the grapes of Bordeaux and Burgundy. James Rahn Cellars is run by its namesake, a Portland sommelier who is crafting seductive Rieslings and Gamays, among other wines. Jasper Sisco is operated by Justin Paul Russell, who is producing single-vineyard Pinot Noirs, Riesling and other wines. Laelaps Wines began as a tasting room and turned into a commercial operation that uses grapes from the Willamette and Walla Walla valleys. Ore Winery is a micro-producer making tiny amounts of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the Willamette Valley. It is owned and operated by Mike Wenrick. Stedt Cellars is run by Chris Lubberstedt, who has nearly two decades of winemaking experience in Oregon and now is doing his own thing.

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SE Wine Collective urban winery Photo courtesy of Jamie Francis / www.travelportland.com

Beer tasting flight Photo courtesy of Jamie Francis / www.travelportland.com

Ed Fus of Urban Crush Photo courtesy of Urban Crush

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Bull Run Distilling Company Photo courtesy of Jamie Francis / www.travelportland.com

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Welsh Family Wines is the brainchild of Dan Welsh and Wendy Davis, who bring in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from vineyards in the Willamette Valley. Welsh learned his winemaking at NW Wine Academy at South Seattle Community College.

SOUTHEAST PORTLAND Just two miles away from Southeast Wine Collective is Hip Chicks Do Wine, a longtime Portland urban winery. The address is 4510 S.E. 23rd Ave. It is owned and operated by Renee Neely and Laurie Lewis.

Enso Winery is not far away at 1416 S.E. Stark St. It moved to this location in 2011 and is open daily.

NORTHWEST PORTLAND One winery to be added to the Portland urban wine trail is Boedecker Cellars, a longtime Willamette Valley producer with a presence in northeast Portland. The winery is at 2621 N.W. 30th Ave. and is open 1 to 6 p.m. weekends. Leah Jorgensen of Leah Jørgensen Cellars makes her wine in Yamhill County but

is in the process of opening a tasting salon in Staver Locomotive across the street from Boedecker Cellars. Her plan is to be open early in 2016. The warehouse comes with a commercial kitchen and features a model steam locomotive exhibit that travels inside and out.

NORTHEAST PORTLAND Bow & Arrow Wines is in The Bindery at 3115 N.E. Sandy Blvd. It produces several wines, including Pinot Noir, Gamay Noir and Melon de Bourgogne.

RESTAURANTS

Andy Ricker’s (Pok Pok, Whiskey Soda Lounge) famous wings. Photo courtesy of travelportland.com

Besaw’s Photo courtesy John Valls / www.travelportland.com

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Barista, tea Photo courtesy of travelportland.com

Portland has a vibrant food scene, much to the envy of just about every other area of the Pacific Northwest. We asked urban winemakers for their favorite spots. Here they are: El Gaucho is the sister restaurant to one of Seattle’s favorite spots. On Southwest Broadway not far from Powell’s Books, it focuses on steaks and Northwest cuisine. Call 503-227-8794. Nuestra Cocina. This Mexican restaurant on Southeast Division features hand-rolled corn tortillas and cooking classes. Call 503232-2135. Laurelhurst Market on East Burnside is a restaurant and butcher shop. Want surf or turf? This is the place. Call 503-206-3097. Renata is a fairly new contemporary Italian restaurant on Southeast Main Street that is gaining quick acclaim with Portland foodies. Call 503-954-2708. Nostrana on Southeast Morrison is headed by Chef Cathy Whims, a six-time James Beard Award finalist. Hearty regional Italian cuisine is the style here. Call 503-234-2427. Southeast Wine Collective. In addition to all the wineries, it also provides a menu of bites, so you don’t have to travel far (or at all) while on the urban wine trail. Call 503-208-2061. Pok Pok is a great Thai place on Southeast Division Street that also is a James Beard Award winner. Call 503-232-1387. The Woodsman Tavern on Southeast Division Street features American cuisine and a deep wine list. Call 971-373-8264. Ava Gene’s on Southeast Division Street is an Italian restaurant with a focus on imported wines. Call 971-229-0571. Le Pigeon on Burnside Street is a fine French restaurant that is considered one of the classic eateries in Portland. Call 503-546-8796. The Ringside Uptown on Burnside reWINEPRESSNW.COM

portland mains one of the Northwest’s iconic steakhouses and is a short walk from Providence Park, home of the Timbers. Call 503-2231513. Bollywood Tavern has two locations: Division Street and Alberta Street. Both feature delicious and fun Indian cuisine. Call 971-200-4711. St. Jack on Northwest 23rd feels like a Paris restaurant and boasts a strong wine list. Call 503-360-1281. It has a second location called La Moule on Southeast Clinton. Call 971-339-2822. Muse Winebar on Northwest Raleigh Street is a charming stop for those looking for a bit of nightlife. Call 503-444-7670. The Fireside, a pub on Northwest 23rd Avenue, features Northwest and American cuisine in small and big plates. Call 503-477-9505. Paley’s Place on Northwest 21st Avenue features Northwest bistro-style cuisine by James Beard chef Vitaly Paley and a strong wine list. Call 503-243-2403.

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The Marilyn room at the Jupiter Hotel Photo courtesy of Mosca Photography / www.travelportland.com

The Crystal Hotel Photo courtesy of Torsten Kjellstrand / www.travelportland.com

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Imperial on 410 SW Broadway is Paley’s wood-fired oven project tucked inside the historic Hotel Lucia. Next door is Paley’s late-night Portland Penny Diner. Call 503228-7222. Ataula on Northwest 23rd Avenue is a tapas bar with a wine list that focuses on imports. Call 503-894-8904. Fish Sauce is a happening Vietnamese restaurant on Northwest 17th Avenue. Call

503-227-8000. A delicious stop on your wine tour should be Salt & Straw ice cream shops (three locations on Northwest 23rd, Southeast Division and Northeast Alberta). No wine, but who cares. Call 503-208-2054. Besaw’s, a Portland original, has gone through a lot in the past year, thanks primarily to an issue between the restaurant and the building’s owner. The big news is Besaw’s is

reopening in a new location at Northwest 21st and Raleigh by the end of the year. Call 503-228-2619.

LODGING There is no shortage of hotels, motels B&Bs and other forms of lodging in Portland. In the downtown core, such hotels as RiverPlace, the Benson, Hotel Monaco, River’s Edge, the Westin and Kimpton’s wine-themed and renovated Hotel Vintage will get you started. Need more help? Start with www.travelportland.com. ANDY PERDUE is The Seattle Times wine writer and editor

and publisher of Great Northwest Wine, an award-winning news and information company. Learn more about wine at www.greatnorthwestwine.com.

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Marian Paden, a tasting room associate at J. Bookwalter Tasting Studio greets guests with a smile.

Zacchoreli Franscobaldi-Grimaldi Contributing Photographer

Woodinville: A blended wine community BY DAN RADIL SPECIAL TO WINE PRESS NORTHWEST

ust 30 years ago, the idea of a Washington winery producing a blended wine was more of a novelty than a standard practice. At that time, the state’s two dozen or so wineries were offering consumers a fairly predictable menu of Riesling, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Semillon, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and little else. It wasn’t until the early 1990’s that several Washington wineries began producing blended wines with any regularity, and as time progressed and the number of Washington wineries exploded in the decade following, a tasting room that didn’t feature a blend was the exception to the rule. Today, there may be no better place in Washington to experience the state’s vast array of blended wines than the Woodinville area. The expansion of the area mirrors the popularity and success of Washington blends, and one might even consider Woodinville 22

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itself to be the model for a “blended wine community.” Start with the older, pre-year 2000 wineries that followed pioneers Chateau Ste. Michelle and Columbia Winery to give Woodinville its solid foundation; add in post-2000 satellite tasting rooms from established Eastern Washington-based wineries; then complete the package with scores of newer wineries who have set up shop here during the past ten years. Together, this hodgepodge of now over 100 wineries and tasting rooms has blended together to near perfection…evolving into a backyard playground for Seattle-area wine enthusiasts and other Western Washington wineophiles by offering a closer-to-home option to experience a taste of the state’s 850-plus wineries.

WOODINVILLE’S “OLD GUARD”

When Executive Winemaker Chris Upchurch helped co-found DeLille Cellars in 1992 there were only three wineries in the Woodinville area. From its inception, Up-

church was passionate about Bordeaux blends, and he was among the first winemakers in the state to produce them. “We try to make French-inspired, Washington wine, which to us means food-friendly with good acidic balance,” says Winemaker Jason Gorski, who came on board at DeLille in 2011. With just a few exceptions, most of the wines produced at the winery are blends. “Although we’re not afraid to let a single wine stand by itself, our philosophy is simple,” notes Gorski. “Get the best vineyards you can, make the best (base) wine you can, and start blending.” The winery’s original Chaleur Estate and Merlot-dominant D2 labels have expanded to include three other Bordeaux-style reds and a Bordeaux white. A separate “Doyenne” label also was added in 1998, and features wines with a Rhone varietal-based focus. Current releases include the 2014 Chaleur Estate Blanc, a spicy, creamy blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon; the gorgeous 2012 D2 which draws on Merlot for red fruit flavors and Cabernet Sauvignon for structure W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

woodinville FEATURE and balance; and the 2012 Chaleur Estate, a triumvirate of red varietals with a plush, elegant quality that has been known to leave wine enthusiasts swooning. Visitors to DeLille’s Carriage House Tasting Room will find an unassuming ramblerstyle house with a tasting area for guests and a private deck for wine club members. Although both areas are primarily undercover, an open-air feature with optional side enclosures gives the facility an “outdoor feel” that most Northwesterners should enjoy. Despite the recent heavy growth among Woodinville-area wineries, Gorski doesn’t foresee any saturation problems. “I don’t think we’re oversaturated. We consider (other wineries) as a peer group, not a competitive group…and that’s good for Washington wines,” he says.

EAST GOES WEST Bookwalter Winery was established by Jerry Bookwalter in Richland in the early 1980’s, and among the earliest Washington wineries to produce blended wines under a “Lot No.” label series that continues to this day.

Teresa Callahan serves wine at DeLille Cellars

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Jason Gorski, winemaker at DeLille Cellars

Jerry’s son John joined the business in 1997 and purchased it outright in 2008. During his tenure with the winery, John has revamped the Richland tasting room into a stylish, contemporary venue, given the wine label a repackaging facelift, and opened a second location in Woodinville in 2007…one of the first Eastern Washington wineries to do so. The Woodinville tasting studio carries an upscale, yet relaxed atmosphere that has made it a favorite with locals and out-of-town visitors alike. The warm interior includes a tasting bar with ample seating, while a separate area with large leather sofas provides more of a private setting. For those who like to do their wine tasting al fresco, patio seating is also available. Although the competition in Woodinville has gotten a bit fierce as of late, J Bookwalter Tasting Studio Manager Kevin Brendt notes, “there are

Zacchoreli Franscobaldi-Grimaldi Contributing Photographer

some great new winemakers coming on to the scene producing incredible wines. This has given us even greater exposure (at our second location).” Bookwalter Winery has a long history of producing excellent blends, and its current releases – all of which carry labels with a literary reference – are no exception. The tasting menu includes the 2014 Couplet, a Chardonnay/Viognier combination that Brendt suggests serving with halibut or raw oysters; the 2014 Notebook, an aromatic pairing of Riesling and Muscat; the five-red varietal 2013 Subplot No. 30; and the 2013 Suspense, a Merlot/Cabernet Franc, Conner Lee Vineyard-sourced blend that “drinks like a right bank Bordeaux blend,” says Brendt.

NEW ADDITIONS TO THE MIX Originally from New Orleans, Bob Harris of Robert Ramsay Cellars grew up in Bellingham and had an epiphany with Rhone varietals at an early age. “I fell in love with a bottle of Côte-Rôtie that really ‘messed me up’ when I was 19. I thought, somebody made that and I have to try to make something that wonderful,” Harris recalls. He went on to help launch Coeur d’Alene W i n t e r 2 015 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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Casey Cobble, co-winemaker at Robert Ramsay Cellars

Bob Harris, founder and co-winemaker at Robert Ramsay Cellars Zacchoreli Franscobaldi-Grimaldi Contributing Photographer

Cellars in Idaho in 2002 before selling his interest and establishing Robert Ramsey Cellars in the Woodinville Warehouse District in 2005. At that time, he estimates there were less than 15 wineries in a part of town that is now home to a densely-packed 40-plus wineries. “Wineries succeed in groups and we wanted to be there,” says Harris. “There’s also an

DeLille Cellars Carriage House Tasting Room

14421 Woodinville-Redmond Road NE (425) 489-0544 delillecellars.com Sunday to Thursday: Noon to 5:00 pm Friday: Noon to 7:00 p.m. Saturday: 11:00 am to 5:00 pm

J Bookwalter Tasting Studio

14810 NE 145th Street Suite B (425) 488-1983 bookwalterwines.com Sunday to Saturday: Noon to Close

Robert Ramsay Cellars

19495 144th Avenue NE #235 (425) 686-9463 robertramsaycellars.com Saturday: Noon to 6:00 pm Sunday: 1:00 pm to 5:00 pm

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open and sharing atmosphere…and a lot of Counoise from the Snipes Mountain AVA. camaraderie involved.” “When I was getting started, everyone was Harris shares winemaking duties with making Cabernet, Merlot and Chardonnay,” Casey Cobble, an Eastern Washington native Harris recounts with a grin. “And I don’t like who joined Robert Ramsey Cellars in 2014. to do what everyone else does. It’s not nearly Even though space is at premium at the cozy as fun.” tasting and barrel room, the wines they proDAN RADIL is a freelance wine writer based in duce here – nearly all as Rhone stand-alone Bellaingham, Wa. Dan teaches wine classes at Belvarietals or blends – are truly remarkable. lingham Technical College and produces a wine blog, The list of current blends includes the danthewineguy.com. nicely-priced 2014 Mason’s White, a combination of Roussanne and Grenache Blanc with understated stone fruit flavors; the 2012 Le Mien, a silky, spicy red primarily consisting of Grenache and Mourvèdre that Cobble has been told, “is phenomenal with duck”; and the impeccably balanced 2012 La Previa, a seductive, unconventional blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, and Brendan Kelly, Lead Tasting Room Asso- Zacchoreli Franscobaldi-Grimaldi ciate at J. Bookwalter Tasting Studio

Contributing Photographer

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16 T H AN N UAL P LAT I N U M J U D G ING: Determining the “Best of the Best” in the Pacific Northwest BY ANDY PERDUE SPECIAL TO WINE PRESS NORTHWEST

he dean of Washington winemakers is perched atop the best wines of the Pacific Northwest. Rob Griffin arrived in Washington from his native California in 1977 and was head winemaker for Preston Wine Cellars and Hogue Cellars before focusing all of his attention on his own Barnard 28

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Griffin in Richland. At the 16th annual Platinum Judging, Griffin’s fortified dessert wine made with Syrah was the No. 1 wine out of a record 698 entries. It also was Griffin’s 20th Platinum in the competition’s first 16 years, an effort that leaves him tied for fifth best of all time.

The Platinum Judging, conducted by Wine Press Northwest magazine, is a beauty contest. Only wines from Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and Idaho that have won gold medals at any of about 40 competitions worldwide in 2015 are eligible to enter. Here are a few of the highlights from this year’s competition: • Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery near Oliver, British Columbia, amassed eight Platinums awards, giving it 55 total and solidifying its position as “King of the Platinum.” • Maryhill Winery in Goldendale, Wash., won six Platinums, five of which were from its “Vineyards Series” of wines. • Winemaker Victor Palencia won five Platinums: three for Jones of Washington and two for his own Palencia Wine Co./Vino La Monarcha. This matches his effort during the 2014 judging. • Wineries winning five Platinums each included: Zerba Cellars of Milton-Freewater, Ore.; and Walla Walla Vintners in Walla Walla, Wash. • Alexandria Nicole Cellars of Prosser and Woodinville, Wash., won four Platinums. • Wineries winning three Platinums included: Thurston Wolfe in Prosser; Jones of Washington in Quincy and Wenatchee, Wash.; Chateau Ste. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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Michelle of Woodinville; and Beaumont Cellars of Quincy and Woodinville. • Of the 143 wines that earned Double Platinum or Platinum, 20 retail for $15 or less. Our judges this year were: Dan Berger, independent wine journalist from Santa Rosa, Calif., who runs the Riverside International and Long Beach Grand Cru competitions and judges around the world; H. Parks Redwine, III of Atlanta, Ga., who owns and operates the NorthWest Wine Summit competition; Heather Unwin, a winery marketing consultant and educator; Ken Robertson, wine columnist for Wine Press Northwest; Coke Roth, international wine judge and Wine Press Northwest columnist; Paul Sinclair of Kennewick, Wash., a member of the Great Northwest Wine tasting panel; Gregg McConnell, editor and publisher of Wine Press Northwest; April Reddout, wine program director at the Walter Clore Wine & Culinary Center in Prosser, Wash.; Kristine Bono, tasting room manager for Goose Ridge Estate Winery near Richland, Wash.; and Ellen Landis, an international wine judge who lives in Vancouver, Wash. The judging was conducted by Eric Degerman and Andy Perdue, owners of Great Northwest Wine, an award-winning news and information company. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Here are the results. Prices listed are from the country of origin.

Double Platinum & Best of the Best Barnard Griffin $17 2013 Syrah Port, Columbia Valley Rob Griffin is the dean of Washington winemakers. The proud University of California-Davis grad arrived in the mid-1970s and has been making some of the state’s best wines ever since. His versatility is what makes him legendary, and this fortified dessert wine is consistently one of Griffin’s finest efforts. It opens with aromas of blueberry, Marionberry, dark chocolate and huckleberry. The alcohol is beautifully integrated, and the creamy, silky palate turns this into a sensual, luscious wine. Pair this with blue cheeses while enjoying a warm fire on a winter evening. (1,850 cases; 19.5% alc.) Medals: Wine Press Northwest fortified judging (Outstanding), Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (Gold)

Double Platinum Walla Walla Vintners $38 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley Owners Gordy Venneri and Myles Anderson have been making some of the top wines in the Walla Walla Valley for two decades, and their efforts have reached greater heights with winemaker William vonMetzger. This gorgeous Cab opens with subtle aromas of oak, dark cherry and spice, followed by flavors of black olive, black tea and dark fruit, all in a classic Bordeaux style. All of this is backed with beautifully handled tannins. (539 cases; 14.4% alc.) Medal: Walla Walla Valley Wine Competition (Double gold/best of show) Northwest Cellars $48 2012 Carménère, Columbia Valley Bob Delf has built quite an operation in Kirkland, Wash., just down the road from Woodinville. His Northwest Cellars began as a custom-label operation — a business that still thrives. Delf teamed up with winemaker Robert Smasne, and together they craft some of the top wines in Washington. This Carménère — a rare red Bordeaux variety — balances the line between classic sweet herbs and W i n t e r 2 015 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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opulent purple fruit. Aromas of violet, black pepper and black olive give way to flavors of spice and dark red fruit. (56 cases; 13.9% alc.) Medals: Sunset International Wine Competition (Gold), Seattle Wine Awards (Gold) Zerba Cellars $36 2012 Cockburn Vineyard Dolcetto, Walla Walla Valley Doug Nierman, the longtime winemaker at this top winery on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley, has crafted many Platinums in his career, and this Italian red ranks as one of his best. It opens with aromas of sandalwood, cranberry sauce and blackberry jam. On the palate, it’s a rich, delicious red with enticing flavors of Christmas spices, blueberry and cherry pipe tobacco. It concludes with a long, lingering finish. (220 cases; 14.5% alc.) Medal: Riverside International Wine Competition (Chairman’s Award/Best of class) Best Buy! Jones of Washington $13 2014 Pinot Gris, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley It hasn’t been the easiest year for the Jones clan after patriarch Jack Jones died in March. But the 30

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family has moved forward, and thanks to the talents of winemaker Victor Palencia, the wines released in 2015 have been spectacular. This luscious Pinot Gris offers aromas of white flowers and starfruit, followed by flavors of Key Lime pie and hints of pear that are balanced perfectly with bracing acidity. Pair this with grilled halibut, seared scallops or grilled chicken. (2,030 cases; 13.4% alc.) Medals: North Central Washington Wine Awards (Double gold/best of class), Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold) Territorial Vineyards & Wine Co. $17 2014 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley This longtime Eugene, Ore., winery has a reputation for crafting delicious white wines, and this is among its finest efforts yet. Aromas of lemonade, herbal tea and citrus peel lead to flavors of creamy lemon pie and kiwi. This is a classic example of Oregon Pinot Gris, thanks to its bright mouth feel and perfect balance of fruit and acidity. Enjoy this with baked chicken, oysters or grilled halibut with a mango salsa. (600 cases; 13.8% alc.) Medals: Great Northwest Wine Competition (Gold), Northwest Wine Summit (Gold)

Legend Cellars $30 NV Vincitore, Columbia Valley This young winery on the north shore of Lake Chelan is making its name with this off-dry vermouth. It is created using Cabernet Franc, botanicals such as citrus and lavender, then fortified with brandy. It opens with aromas and flavors of chai spices, roasted hazelnut, cinnamon and plum. It is an unusual and delicious aperitif or afterdinner delight. (85 cases; 18.2% alc.) Medal: North Central Washington Wine Awards (Gold/ Best dessert) Monte Creek Ranch $16 2013 Hands Up Red, Okanagan Valley This unusual and affordable blend includes Merlot, Frontenac and Marquette. The latter two grapes are French hybrids bred at the University of Minnesota to withstand cold winters. The result of this blend is a fascinating and charming red with aromas and flavors of orange zest, ripe cherry, red plum and spice, all of which are beautifully balanced and understated. (673 cases; 13.6% alc.) Medal: All-Canadian Wine Championships (Gold)

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Dusted Valley Vintners $42 2012 Wallywood, Columbia Valley The Wisconsin boys are at it again, here with a Syrah-based blend that pays homage to their winery’s home in Walla Walla and tasting room in the Hollywood district of Woodinville, Wash. This gorgeous wine is a deep purple with aromas of blackberry, sweet herbs and hints of cured meat. On the palate, it’s a full-throttle red with flavors of plum, spice, minerality and dark coffee. It’s a rich, complex, cellar-worthy wine. (144 cases; 15.2% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Gold) Mt. Hood Winery $20 2014 Dry Riesling, Columbia Gorge The Columbia Gorge AVA is proving to be one of the most fascinating emerging regions in the Northwest, and this stunning Riesling is an example of the potential this area holds. Aromas of passionfruit, pear, lemon and gardenia lead to flavors of Granny Smith apple and Graham cracker pie crust. It’s all backed with stunning acidity that gives way to a length and viscosity not normally found in Northwest Rieslings. (143 cases; 12.2% alc.) Medal: Great Northwest Wine Competition (Double gold)

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Best Buy! Ryan Patrick Vineyards $12 2013 Ryan’s Riesling, Columbia Valley Yakima Valley native and WSU grad Jeremy Santos oversees the winemaking for this longtime North Central Washington winery now owned by the Milbrandts. This luscious Riesling offers aromas of pear, floral notes and ripe Ginger Gold apple. On the palate, the 2.2% residual sweetness provides plenty of juiciness, yet the bright acidity more than makes up for it. This offers something for new wine drinkers as well as experts. (3,500 cases; 12% alc.) Medals: North Central Washington Wine Awards (Double gold/best of class), Seattle Wine Awards (Gold) Maryhill Winery $32 2012 Northridge Vineyard Syrah, Wahluke Slope Winemaker Richard Batchelor continues his string of hits with this superb Syrah using grapes from one of the state’s top vineyards. Northridge is a warm site on the western Wahluke Slope that is owned and managed by the Milbrandt family. The resulting wine is loaded with aromas and flavors of dark fruit, exotic spices, mocha, well-integrated

tannins, milk chocolate and dark cherries. This is an honest and authentic Syrah. (189 cases; 14.8% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold) Eight Bells Winery $32 2012 Red Willow Vineyard 8 Clones Syrah, Yakima Valley This small Seattle urban producer in the Ravenna neighborhood uses grapes primarily from Red Willow, one of the top vineyards in Washington. This stunning Syrah opens with classic Côte-Rôtie aromas of cured meats, sizzling bacon, licorice and blueberry, followed by complex flavors of black olive, dark chocolate, rich black cherry and barbecue spices. It’s all backed by powerful yet approachable tannins. (220 cases; 14.9% alc.) Medal: Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (gold) Basel Cellars Estate Winery $34 2011 Estate Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley Basel Cellars is south of downtown Walla Walla and is in a former mansion that is available for guests. This Cab Franc has everything in balance, starting with aromas of pencil shavings, mocha, blueberry and dark plum, followed by explosive flavors of dark fruit and chocolate. The structure W i n t e r 2 015 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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of this wine is based on acidity rather than tannin, making it a classic Washington Cabernet Franc. (142 cases; 12.5% alc.) Medal: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (Gold) Telaya Wine Co. $35 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Boise-area winemaker Earl Sullivan brings in grapes from Idaho and Washington for his growing program, and this sublime Cab uses fruit from Scooteney Flats Vineyard on venerable Red Mountain. Stunning aromas of violet and dusty black fruit greet the nose. On the palate, this plush and complex red is layered with flavors of perfectly ripe berry, black plum, fresh mint and savory spice. Precise tannins and impeccable balance make this a wine to drink now or cellar for a half-decade or more. (250 cases; 13.8% alc.) Medals: Riverside International Wine Competition (Chairman's Award), Seattle Wine Awards (Gold) Jones of Washington $30 2012 Estate Vineyards Reserve Malbec, Wahluke Slope Malbec is little more than an afterthought in its native Bordeaux, playing a small but important 32

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blending role. But in Washington, it is developing into an exciting red wine, and this is a superb example with fruit coming from the arid Wahluke Slope. Aromas of ripe blueberry and black pepper lead to powerful yet elegant flavors of boysenberry and pie spice, all with a backbone of firm tannins that give way to a persistent finish. (182 cases; 14.5% alc.) Medal: North Central Washington Wine Awards (Double gold/best of class) Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards $31 2013 Golgotha Bloc Malbec, Umpqua Valley Stephen Reustle is earning a reputation for being Southern Oregon’s most versatile winemaker, as it seems there are no styles of wine he is not great at crafting. This Malbec is the latest example. It opens with appealing aromas of blueberry, blackberry, thyme, savory, violet and mild oak impressions. On the palate, this is loaded with flavors of dark chocolate, spice and black pepper. Smooth tannins give this drink-now approachability. (150 cases; 13.2% alc.) Medals: Savor Northwest (Double gold), Los Angeles International Wine Competition (Gold)

Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards $24 2013 Revelation & Sorek Bloc Grüner Veltliner, Umpqua Valley This Austrian grape is quite the darling right now, especially amid influential sommeliers, and Stephen Reustle makes several examples. This luscious version would make Austrians proud, thanks to aromas of minerality and tart apple, followed by flavors of crisp orchard fruit and saltwater taffy. Enjoy with pork chops, seared scallops or even nopalitos con huevos. (670 cases; 13.6% alc.) Medal: Great Northwest Wine Competition (Gold) Bradley Vineyards $28 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir, Elkton Oregon John Bradley began planting grapes in the cool Elkton, Ore., region more than 30 years ago, providing his fruit to nearby wineries until launching his winery in 2000. Bradley died in 2014, and this superb effort is a tribute to his pioneering efforts in this area of Southern Oregon. It opens with classic aromas of saddle leather, forest floor, orange zest and cranberry, followed by elegant flavors of Christmas spice, Montmorency cherry and mild oak influence. (46 cases; 15.2% alc.) Medal: Savor Northwest (Double gold) W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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Sperling Vineyards $32 2012 Old Vines Riesling, Okanagan Valley This young winery in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley uses 35-year-old Riesling vines for this stupendous white wine. It’s a brilliant effort, thanks to aromas of minerality, clementine and nectarine with just the barest hint of classic petrol. On the palate, it provides flavors of orange zest, Asian pear and crisp green apple. It’s all backed with precise balance and startling acidity. This is a remarkable wine. (200 cases; 11.5% alc.) Medal: Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (Double gold/best of class) Season Cellars $18 2014 Transparency White, Southern Oregon Scott Henry IV, whose family has a long history of winemaking and viticulture in Oregon’s Umpqua Valley, is now producing wine under this label. This is a delicious blend of Müller-Thurgau, Early Muscat and Riesling that opens with aromas of ripe orchard fruit, including Granny Smith apple, and sweet herbs. On the palate, mouth-filling flavors of poached pear and fresh apricot are backed with vibrant acidity that gives way to long and balanced finish. (438 cases; 11% alc.) Medal: W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Oregon Wine Experience (Double gold) Sparkman Cellars $62 2012 Rainmaker Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley Sommelier-turned-winemaker Chris Sparkman is crafting some of the most highly sought-after red wines in Woodinville, Wash., and this is one of four Cabernet Sauvignons he produces. It is an outrageously harmonious wine from start to finish, thanks to aromas of pencil shavings and black currant, followed by flavors of ripe dark cherry and underlying hints of cranberry. Elegant tannins work in concert with elegant acidity to provide all the structure one could hope for. (267 cases; 14.3% alc.) Medal: Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (Double gold) JM Cellars $38 2013 Chardonnay, Columbia Valley Longtime Woodinville boutique winemaker John Bigelow brought in grapes from highly considered Conner Lee and Stillwater Creek vineyards for this luscious Chardonnay. Aromas of lemon zest and brioche lead to balanced flavors of citrus and just the barest hint of oak. Not a big lover of Chardonnay? This is multi-faceted example is likely to

convert that kind of thinking. (435 cases; 14.2% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Gold) Best Buy! Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery

$14

2014 Old Vines Auxerrois, Okanagan Valley Brothers Walter and Gordon Gehringer planted their Auxerrois vines three decades ago along the Golden Mile Bench, and though the Loire Valley white variety has never gained a huge following, the Gehringers have proven they have the perfect climate for it. This is a refreshing and delicate wine with aromas and flavors of lemon zest, lime, tangerine and a bit of peach. This is a real treat that will work well with chicken, pork or seafood. (1,500 cases; 12.9% alc.) Medals: Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (Best of show), Los Angeles International Wine Competition (Gold/best of class), Northwest Wine Summit (Gold) Willamette Valley Vineyards $55 2012 Bernau Block Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Winemaker Don Crank used estate grapes to craft W i n t e r 2 015 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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this delicious Pinot Noir from one of Oregon’s best and biggest producers. Complex aromas of cherry, spice, cedar and forest floor lead to beautiful flavors of raspberry, fresh cranberry and a hint of cocoa powder. It is a pretty wine that finishes brilliantly. (1,973 cases; 13.9% alc.) Medals: Savor Northwest (Double gold), Sunset International Wine Competition (Gold), Oregon Wine Awards (Gold) Malaga Springs Winery $16 2014 Viognier, Washington Located near the Columbia River south of Wenatchee, Wash., this small producer is moving up in quality, thanks to efforts like this Viognier. It is loaded with aromas of apricot, lime zest and vanilla, followed by beautifully textured flavors of sweet orange, peach and cream. Just-right acidity gives this a finish that lingers seemingly forever. ( 50 cases; 13.8% alc.) Medal: North Central Washington Wine Awards (Gold/best of class) Best Buy! Three Rivers Winery $14 2013 River’s Red, Columbia Valley No fewer than five red varieties — led by Sangiovese — go into this wine that is as delicious as it is 34

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affordable. Aromas of ripe cherry, pipe tobacco, vanilla, spice and a hint of oak give way to plush, approachable flavors of rich dark fruit, including blackberry cobbler, Bing cherry and a hint of dark chocolate shavings. When a wine is this good and and this affordable, it’s time to consider buying by the case. (6,631 cases; 13.7% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold) Thurston Wolfe $20 2012 Howling Wolfe Zinfandel, Horse Heaven Hills Zin is still a variety rarely found in the Wild West of Washington winemaking, but count on longtime vintner Wade Wolfe to craft one of the best. Aromas of bacon, cola, chocolate and cherry lead to jammy, consumer-friendly flavors of creamy strawberry and red currant, all backed by bright acids and mild tannins. (1,000 cases; 15% alc.) Medal: Great Northwest Wine Competition (Gold)

Platinum Tightrope Winery $23 2012 Riesling, Okanagan Valley This small, high-end winery in Penticton, British

Columbia, is run by Lyndsay and Graham O’Rourke, who are crafting some of the most delicious wines in the Okanagan Valley. This alluring Riesling reveals aromas of wet stone and nectarine, followed by bright flavors of lime zest and pear with accents of minerality. It is a multidimensional wine with a bright, long finish. (325 cases; 12.6% alc.) Medal: Northwest Wine Summit (Gold) Chateau Ste. Michelle $30 2013 Eroica Gold, Columbia Valley The second vintage of this new project under the Eroica label is revealing itself to be superb, based on the number of gold medals it has earned. This is a high-acid (2.93 pH), high sugar (6.64% residual sugar) wine with the spiciness of botrytis. Aromas of honey and lime lead to flavors of crème brûlée and citrus. This is loaded with complexity. (2,250 cases; 11% alc.) Medals: San Francisco International Wine Competition (Double gold), West Coast Wine Competition (Gold), Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold), Riverside International Wine Competition (Chairman's Award/Best of class), Pacific Rim Wine Competition (Best of class)

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Beaumont Cellars $28 2013 Cabernet Franc, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley Pete Beaumont is one of the rising stars in North Central Washington, and he has tasting rooms in Quincy and Woodinville. This delicious Cab Franc opens with aromas of black pepper, leather and blueberry pie, followed by elegant flavors of plum, black currant and spice. It’s all backed by silky tannins through the lengthy finish. (75 cases; 13.5% alc.) Medals: North Central Washington Wine Awards (Gold), Seattle Wine Awards (Gold) Dunham Cellars $45 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon XVII, Columbia Valley Winemaker Daniel Wampfler has been crafting the wines at this top Walla Walla producer for several years, and this is one of his finest efforts, especially considering the challenges that came with the cool 2011 vintage. Intense aromas of fresh tobacco and blackberry lead to flavors of black olive, black cherry, black pepper and spicy oak behind firm, well-structured tannins. (1,900 cases; 14.2% alc.) Medals: Great Northwest Wine Competition (Gold), Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold) W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Best Buy! 14 Hands Winery $12 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Leave it to the team at Ste. Michelle Wine Estates to make such an astonishingly delicious Cabernet Sauvignon in such huge amounts for a great price. This European-style red leads with aromas of lavender, sweet herbs and Bing cherry, followed by flavors of blackberry, chocolate, vanilla and black licorice. (500,000 cases; 13.5% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold) Tamarack Cellars $30 2013 Cabernet Franc, Wahluke Slope Ron Coleman and his team at this Walla Walla airport winery are crafting superb Cab Francs, and this is one of their finest efforts to date. Aromas of wild berry and a hint of spice give way to flavors of black cherry, earthy minerality, tobacco leaf and chocolate. The tannins are tightly wound and well structured, which leads to a long-lasting finish. (1,200 cases; 14.2% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Gold)

Best Buy! Columbia Crest $15 2013 H3 Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills One of Washington’s largest wineries has a hit with its H3 series — wines that use grapes from the Horse Heaven Hills. This delicious and affordable Cab is beautifully structured and velvety smooth. The aromas of blackberry and spice are accompanied by flavors of sweet dark berry, roasted bell pepper and cola. (205,000 cases; 14.5% alc.) Medals: San Francisco International Wine Competition (Double gold), Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold) Best Buy! Pasek Cellars Winery $12 NV Blackberry Dessert Wine, Washington This longtime winery near the Skagit Valley town of Mount Vernon, Wash., is a master with fruit wines. This fortified blackberry dessert wine is laden with aromas and flavors of blackberry cobbler, vanilla, dark chocolate and spices. It’s perfect with a plate of blue cheeses on a dark, wintery night. (250 cases; 16% alc.) Medals: Great Northwest Wine Competition (Double gold), Northwest Wine Summit (Gold) W i n t e r 2 015 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery

Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold)

2014 Minus 9 Ehrenfelser Icewine, Okanagan Valley Named for the Ehrenfels Castle along the Rhine River in Germany, this cross of Riesling and Silvaner has turned out to be a superb grape for producing ice wine in the skilled hands of winemaker Walter Gehringer. This opens with aromas of pear pie and almond, followed by flavors of cooked apricot and apple pie. It’s a complex wine that delivers plenty of balanced flavor. (300 cases; 11.1% alc.) Medal: Indy International Wine Competition (Double gold)

Recline RIdge Vineyards and Winery 2013 Kerner, Okanagan Valley Kerner is a rare grape to find outside of its native Germany (where it was bred in the ‘20s from Riesling and Trollinger) and Italy, but a few acres are in the ground in the Okanagan Valley, where it produces a bright, delicious white wine. This example reveals aromas and flavors of Fuji apple, kiwi and papaya, all backed by restrained sweetness and good balance. (400 cases; 12.8% alc.) Medal: Northwest Wine Summit (Gold)

Best Buy! Airfield Estates $15 2013 Runway Late Harvest Riesling, Yakima Valley Marcus Miller, the winemaker for this family operation in the Yakima Valley town of Prosser, Wash., has crafted a delicious and affordable dessert wine with aromas and flavors of dried pineapple, starfruit, Mandarin orange and toast with butter and honey. Thanks to its rich viscosity, this has the mouth feel of an ice wine yet all the acidity one could hope for. (2,500 cases; 9.6% alc.)

Lopez Island Vineyards $25 2012 Estate Madeleine Angevine, Puget Sound This cool-climate grape from France’s Loire Valley enjoys a bit of a fan base in the cool Puget Sound AVA, and examples such as this are why. Mad Ang, as it’s known, can produce a beautiful white wine that is just about perfect with oysters, clams and scallops. This example from one of the state’s oldest wineries offers aromas and flavors of banana nut bread, lemongrass and ripe pear. (310 cases; 12% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Gold)

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Cassini Cellars $38 2012 Maximus, Okanagan Valley Just north of the U.S. border, Cassini Cellars is quietly building a reputation for crafting superb red wines. This Cab-leading blend is a great example of what is happening near Oliver. It opens with aromas of dusty black currant, raisin and spice, followed by flavors of jammy dark fruit and wellintegrated tannins that give way to an elegant and sophisticated finish. (700 cases; 14.2% alc.) Medal: All-Canadian Wine Championships (Gold) Mercer Estates $24 2012 Sharp Sisters, Columbia Valley This nine-grape blend from winemaker Jessica Munnell leads with Merlot, and the diversity of grapes creates layers of complexity for this wine from a leading Yakima Valley producer. Aromas of blueberry, spice box, cola and elegant oak give way to beautifully structured flavors of ripe cherry, blueberry and cedar. It’s all backed with finegrained tannins. (4,842 cases; 14.1% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Gold)

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Silvara Vineyards $32 2013 Red Blend, Washington Vintner Gary Seidler leads the efforts at this winery near the Bavarian-style town of Leavenworth, Wash. This is a blend that leans heavily on Syrah and also includes Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The result is a heady wine with aromas of wild game, dark fruit and dark-roasted coffee, followed by rich flavors of mocha, blueberry, pipe tobacco and spice. (264 cases; 14.1% alc.) Medal: North Central Washington Wine Awards (Double gold/best red) Best Buy! Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $14 2014 Private Reserve Dry Riesling, Okanagan Valley Walter Gehringer learned his winemaking in Germany and is one of the top Riesling producers in the Pacific Northwest. He has won no fewer than 15 Platinums for Riesling alone — and five previous times for the Private Reserve. This is a beautifully sophisticated wine with citrus and floral notes and dramatic acidity. It will pair beautifully with pasta with a cream sauce or crab. (2,000 cases; 13% alc.) Medals: Los Angeles InW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

ternational Wine Competition (Gold), Northwest Wine Summit (Gold) Anam Cara Cellars $22 2012 Nicholas Estate Riesling, Chehalem Mountains Oregon’s Willamette Valley has long proven to be a wonderful place to grow Riesling, though conventional wisdom dictates that Pinot Noir be planted first because it will bring more money. This complex and stunning wine reveals what the potential is. Aromas of floral notes and white pepper lead to elegant flavors of crisp apple, bright pear and steely minerality. It is a stunning wine that will only continue to gain depth with some time in the cellar. (200 cases; 10.8% alc.) Medal: Oregon Wine Awards (Gold) Palencia Winery $30 2013 Syrah, Yakima Valley Victor Palencia grew up in the Yakima Valley town of Prosser, Wash., working in nearby vineyards and wineries for after-school jobs. He was among the first to attend Walla Walla Community College’s vaunted winemaking program before returning to Prosser. He came back to Walla Walla in 2013 to launch Palencia Winery at the airport, and his

wines have been remarkable. This rich Syrah is loaded with aromas and flavors of spices, blackberry, a hint of caramel and black olive. Supple tannins give this youthful approachability. (99 cases; 14.1% alc.) Medal: Walla Walla Valley Wine Competition (Gold) Kraze Legz Vineyard & Winery $20 2014 Skaha Vineyard Mystique, Okanagan Valley This winery overlooking Skaha Lake south of Penticton, British Columbia, has been on a roll the past couple of years. This blend leads with Pinot Blanc and is rich with aromas and flavors of tropical fruit, including kiwi, guava and melon. In addition, notes of fresh-cut apple, Meyer sweet lemon and fresh herbs lead to a richly textured palate with hints of almond that give way to an enduring finish. (200 cases; 13% alc.) Medal: All-Canadian Wine Championships (Gold) Gamache Vintners $25 2012 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley Grape grower Roger Gamache teams up with winemaker Charlie Hoppes to produce these estate wines that consistently show well in competitions. Gamache has been growing wine grapes near the W i n t e r 2 015 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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Columbia River for going on four decades. This classic Cab Franc reveals aromas and flavors of violet, green tea, boysenberry and a complex mushroom earthiness. Mild tannins and rich acidity give this ample food-pairing opportunities. (335 cases; 12.8% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold) Watermill Winery $36 2012 Estate Cabernet Franc, Walla Walla Valley This is the second consecutive time — and the fourth in five years — that the folks at Watermill near Milton-Freewater, Ore., have landed a Platinum for their Cab Franc. This opens with intriguing aromas of vanilla bean and black cherry. Lush, savory flavors of blueberry, black currant, cedar and a hint of white pepper lead to polished tannins and a lengthy finish. (85 cases; 14.6% alc.) Medals: Great Northwest Wine Competition (Gold), Oregon Wine Awards (Double gold) Seven Falls Cellars $20 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Wahluke Slope This project is led by Doug Gore, who heads up all winery operations for Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. At this point, it’s a restaurant-focused 38

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brand, but that could change as it continues to grow (just as 14 Hands did). This is a superb wine that fights well above its weight class, thanks to aromas and flavors of ripe cherry, elegant oak, toasted pecan and exotic spice. And one of the most decorated in the competition is backed by gentle, fine-grained tannins. (37,000 cases; 14.5% alc.) Medals: San Francisco International Wine Competition (Double gold), San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (Gold), Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold), Savor Northwest (Gold/Best of class), Pacific Rim Wine Competition (Gold) Beaumont Cellars $36 2013 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain Pete Beaumont has quickly developed into one of the top winemakers in North Central Washington, and this Cab from Red Mountain grapes is another great example. Aromas of clove, sandalwood, Bing cherry and spicy oak lead to flavors of balanced dark fruit, a rich mouth feel that leads to a memorable finish. (136 cases; 14.2% alc.) Medal: North Central Washington Wine Awards (Double gold/best of class)

Chateau Lorane $25 2010 Echo West Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Using grapes from the Oregon side of the Columbia Valley, this longtime Eugene winery has crafted a Cabernet Sauvignon with elegance and power. Aromas of sweet herbs, Bing cherry and black currant give way to flavors of ripe dark fruit, Baker’s chocolate, black licorice and purple lavender. (140 cases; 14.5% alc.) Medal: Oregon Wine Awards (Double gold) Chateau Ste. Michelle $17 2014 Indian Wells Chardonnay, Columbia Valley Washington’s oldest and largest winery has been building its Chardonnay program for the past several years to the point where it is producing hundreds of thousands of cases. This popular and delicious drink opens with delightful aromas of minerality, tropical fruit and almond extract. On the palate, it reveals clean, ripe flavors of cantaloupe and ripe Golden Delicious apple. (90,000 cases; 14% alc.) Medal: Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (Gold)

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Best Buy! Thurston Wolfe $13 2010 JTW’s Port, Washington Wade Wolfe has developed into quite the expert in fortified dessert wines, and this is among the best he’s crafted. Aromas of peppercorn, caramel and golden raisin lead to rich, mouth-coating flavors of ripe plum, raisin and rich dark chocolate. It’s all backed with a nice grip of tannins on the finish. Enjoy this with chocolate cake or blue cheese. (250 cases; 19% alc.) Medal: Wine Press Northwest fortified judging (Outstanding) Watermill Winery $24 2012 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley Winemaker Andrew Brown used grapes from Anna Marie and McClellan vineyards to craft this delicious Merlot. It is ethereal on the palate, with Bordeaux-like aromas of earth, spice and perfectly ripe red fruit. On the palate, this shows beautiful restraint with notes of red cherry and spice. It’s all backed with beautifully handled tannins. (375 cases; 14.3% alc.) Medal: Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (Gold)

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Martin-Scott Winery $28 2013 Needlerock Vineyard Montepulciano, Columbia Valley Montepulciano — unrelated to the Tuscan hilltown — is one of the most-planted grapes in Italy, yet it is virtually unknown in the New World, particularly in Washington. Owner Mike Scott has crafted this superb example for the past few years at his East Wenatchee Winery. This example opens with aromas of berry and minerally earth that expands on the palate with flavors of cherry, dried herb and wild berry, all backed by finely grained tannins and a beautiful finish. (45 cases; 14% alc.) Medal: North Central Washington Wine Awards (Gold) Girardet Wine Cellars $59 2012 Bush Vine Tempranillo, Umpqua Valley Second-generation winemaker Marc Girardet has been at the helm of his family’s winery since the late 1990s, and this Tempranillo is among his best yet. Resplendent aromas of blackberry and damp earth meld with notes of anise. On the palate,

flavors of boysenberry cobbler coat the mouth. Brisk acidity and focused fruit combine for pristine balance and a luscious finish. (73 cases; 13.8% alc.) Medal: Savor Northwest (Gold) Kitzke Cellars $33 2012 Nebbiolo, Red Mountain Kitzke Cellars in Richland, Wash., has been on a roll the past three years, thanks to a combination of great fruit sources and the winemaking of Charlie Hoppes. Nebbiolo is considered one of the great red grapes in the world but is rare in the Northwest, so it is heartening to see such a delicious example. Aromas of mountain berry and moist earth lead to flavors of dried cranberry and a touch of citrus. Bright acidity and hearty tannins top off the delicious finish. (119 cases; 14.6% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Gold) Yakima Valley Vintners $22 2012 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Dean's List Primitivo, Columbia Valley Washington has four educational institutions with winemaking programs, and Yakima Valley Community College in Grandview has been proving its prowess the past few years. This luscious Primitivo opens with aromas of of black cherry and charW i n t e r 2 015 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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cuterie, followed by rich flavors of boysenberry. It’s beautifully balanced, giving way to a lengthy finish. (48 cases; 14.4% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold) Abacela $21 2014 Estate Albariño, Umpqua Valley This winery near Roseburg, Ore., was among the first in the Pacific Northwest to focus on Albariño, a sleek, bright Spanish white variety, and continues to produce one of the best. Aromas of green apple and pineapple lead to flavors Asian pear, lemongrass and citrus. Just a kiss of residual sugar helps amplify the flavors. (1,758 cases; 13.2% alc.) Medal: Oregon Wine Experience (Gold) Best Buy! Eye of the Needle $15 NV 12th Blend Chenin Blanc, Columbia Valley This Woodinville, Wash., winery honors Seattle Seahawks fans everywhere with its “12th Blend” reds and whites. This delicious white wine is all Chenin Blanc, and it’s a beauty. Aromas of lime and white blossoms lead to flavors of tart apple, spice and sweet lemon. It’s heartening to see Chenin Blanc making a mild comeback with wines this 40

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delicious. (2,000 cases; 13.6% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Gold) Gray Monk Estate Winery $18 2014 Ehrenfelser, Okanagan Valley The Heiss family has been running this winery about 20 minutes north of Kelowna for a long time. While the winery name honors the grape Pinot Gris, the Heisses also specialize in other varieties. This rare and delicious Ehrenfelser offers aromas and flavors of sweet lime, orange, white blossoms and white peach. It’s all backed with bright acidity. (965 cases; 11.2% alc.) Medal: Northwest Wine Summit (Gold) Melrose Vineyards $22 2012 Pinot Noir, Umpqua Valley Based in Southern Oregon’s Umpqua Valley, this winery has proven through the years to be a producer of consistently high-quality and understated wines. This delicious and affordable Pinot Noir opens with complex aromas of cedar, raspberry and spice, followed by flavors of red cherry and cranberry backed by fruit-lifting acidity. (1,000 cases; 13.8% alc.) Medals: Savor Northwest (Gold), Critics Challenge (Gold), Oregon Wine Awards (Gold)

Zerba Cellars $45 2012 Petit Verdot, Walla Walla Valley Petit Verdot almost never plays anything more than a minor role in its native Bordeaux. Frankly, it’s not an easy grape to grow, partly because it ripens late. But here on the West Coast, ripening usually isn’t an issue and, as such, we are seeing a few delicious examples. This is one, thanks to classic aromas of violets, vanilla, dark fruit and earthiness. On the palate, it’s a big, dark, bold wine with surprisingly tamed tannins and a lengthy finish. (162 cases; 14.5% alc.) Medal: Oregon Wine Awards (Gold) Walla Walla Vintners $32 2013 Cuvée, Washington This Left Bank-style blend is one of the wines that put Walla Walla Vintners on the radar of Washington wine lovers in the late 1990s, and it continues to impress. Aromas and flavors of spice, cocoa powder and black tea meld with notes of dark cherry and blackberry. It’s all perfectly balanced, thanks to solid acidity and tannins with just the right amount of grip. (616 cases; 14.3% alc.) Medal: Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (Gold)

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Barrister Winery $22 NV Rough Justice, Columbia Valley This longtime Spokane winery is famous for its Cabernet Franc, along with such wines as Merlot and Malbec. This Merlot-leading blend is a delicious and affordable bottling that is a big hit with its fans. Aromas of cranberry, dark chocolate and light toast give way to persistent flavors of coffee and ripe red fruit. Mild tannins give this smooth approachability. (1,932 cases; 14.8% alc.) Medal: Indy International Wine Competition (Gold) Sinclair Estate Vineyards $30 2011 Vixen, Wahluke Slope Winemaker Amy Alvarez-Wampfler crafted this delicious and unusual but successful blend of Petit Verdot and Syrah for her Walla Walla winery. Aromas of clove, cinnamon and red currant lead to flavors of dense plum, cinnamon and blackberry. It’s smooth, balanced and approachable with a lingering finish. (300 cases; 14.5% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold) Henry Earl Estates $20 2013 Riesling, Wahluke Slope Dick Shaw has become one of the top grape growers in Washington, with plantings on the W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Wahluke Slope, Red Mountain and other areas. He launched this small winery in Walla Walla, and it already is enjoying strong success. This delicious Riesling offers aromas and flavors of Key Lime pie, minerality and juicy orange. Just a touch of sweetness arrives on the finish to provide a memorable farewell. (500 cases; 13% alc.) Medal: Sunset International Wine Competition (Gold) Abacela $18 2014 Grenache Rosé, Umpqua Valley Grenache rosé was one of the first delicious wines when the Northwest began focusing on using European grape varieties in the ‘60s, and this example from Southern Oregon is true to the variety. Aromas and flavors of Rainier cherry, light strawberry and dried cranberry are backed by beautiful spiciness and lingering acidity. A delicious and versatile wine. (878 cases; 13.1% alc.) Medal: Sunset International Wine Competition (Gold) Walla Walla Vintners $25 2013 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley Through the years, the Walla Walla Vintners crew has come to understand that its Sangiovese works best with a bit of Syrah and Malbec. The result

with this superb effort is a wine with aromas and flavors of vanilla, chocolate-covered cherry, dusty blueberry and spices. It’s all backed with vibrant acidity that will pair perfectly with rich Italian dishes. (836 cases; 14.2% alc.) Medals: Great Northwest Wine Competition (Gold/best of class), Pacific Rim Wine Competition (Gold) Tre Nova $55 2010 Banatello Riserva Doebler Vineyard Sangiovese, Wahluke Slope Longtime Northwest winemaker Gino Cuneo now practices his craft in Walla Walla. This gorgeous Brunello-style Sangiovese uses grapes from the warm, arid Wahluke Slope. It opens with aromas of dark, deep berry and orange liqueur, followed by flavors of black licorice, ripe red fruit and pretty herbs that linger on the finish. (165 cases; 15.5% alc.) Medal: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (Gold) Maryhill Winery $30 2012 Gunkel Vineyard Syrah, Columbia Valley Many think of the Gunkel vineyard as being Maryhill’s estate vines because they are adjacent to each other overlooking the dramatic Columbia W i n t e r 2 015 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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Gorge. This is a rich and sultry red with aromas and flavors of huckleberry cobbler, ripe plum, minerality, vanilla and exotic spiciness. This is a perfect wine to pair with sweetbreads. (508 cases; 15.1% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold) Chateau Lorane $30 2010 Quail Run Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Rogue Valley Linde Kestler has been producing wine in Oregon’s southern Willamette Valley for nearly a quartercentury, crafting some of the most fascinating non-Pinot Noir wines in the state. This Cab Franc using Southern Oregon fruit exudes aromas and flavors of pomegranate, loganberry, savory spice and black cherry. It’s an engaging drink that is sleek and balanced through the extended finish. (90 cases; 13.3% alc.) Medal: Oregon Wine Awards (Double gold) Zerba Cellars $45 2012 Zinfandel, Walla Walla Valley Make no doubt about it: Zinfandel is California’s grape. But not unlike Petite Sirah, we’re now seeing delicious and credible examples from warm areas of the Pacific Northwest. This example from 42

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an Oregon winery will appeal to those who enjoy Zins from Dry Creek and Paso. Aromas of new shoe leather, spices and cola give way to flavors of raspberry, cherry pipe tobacco and a complex whisper of orange zest. (245 cases; 15.1% alc.) Medal: Great Northwest Wine Competition (Gold/best of class) Alexandria Nicole Cellars $20 2014 Crawford Viognier, Columbia Valley Nearly all of Jarrod Boyle’s wines come from his estate grapes in the Horse Heaven Hills, but this is an exception, as the relatively cooler lower Yakima Valley is a great location to grow Viognier, as this wine reveals. Aromas of mint and white peach give way to flavors of orange and juicy peach. Hints of lemon zest and mint provide additional complexity on the finish. (1,096 cases; 13.4% alc.) Medals: Great Northwest Wine Competition (Gold), Savor Northwest (Double gold/best of class) Zerba Cellars $36 2012 Cabernet Franc, Walla Walla Valley In three of the past four years, this Milton-Freewater, Ore., winery has earned a Platinum for its Cabernet Franc. Assertive aromas of classic sweet herbs and ripe cherry lead to flavors of dried fig,

subtle spice and ripe red fruit. It’s all backed by firm yet pliable tannins. (343 cases; 14.5% alc.) Medal: West Coast Wine Competition (Gold/best of class) Walla Walla Vintners $40 2012 Estate Vineyard Syrah, Walla Walla Valley How dark is this wine? It’s Darth Vader in a glass, a glowering, brooding, tantalizing Syrah with incredible depth of complexity. Notes of saddle leather, game meat, lush tannins and lingering licorice. Embrace your dark side. (252 cases; 14.5% alc.) Medals: Savor Northwest (Double gold/best of class), Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold), Pacific Rim Wine Competition (Best of class) Maryhill Winery $30 2012 Proprietor's Reserve Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley Since his arrival in 2009, winemaker Richard Batchelor has been the steady captain of this showpiece winery’s cellar. Of Maryhill’s 25 Platinums leading up to this year, 20 have been crafted by Batchelor. This superior Cab Franc is a graceful red with aromas and flavors of dark cherry, sweet herbs, moist earth. This is a classic and classy wine. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

platinum TASTING RESULTS

(148 cases; 14.4% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold) Desert Wind Winery $18 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Wahluke Slope The Fries family has roots firmly planted on both sides of the Columbia River, with some of the largest vineyard holdings in both Washington and Oregon. This luscious Cab comes from estate grapes on the warm Wahluke Slope. Aromas of mint and wild berry give way to a wine with round, full flavors of boysenberry and black cherry. It’s well structured for an enduring finish. (3,555 cases; 14.5% alc.) Medal: Great Northwest Wine Competition (Gold) Barrister Winery $31 2012 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley This is the variety that started everything for this Spokane winery. Stunning early success with Cab Franc at some of the most important national and regional competitions burnished Barrister’s reputation. This delicious example extends the legacy, thanks to complex aromas of spices, sweet herbs, forest floor and dried cherry, followed by elegant flavors of red and dark fruit backed by moderate tannins. (897 cases; 14.5% alc.) Medal: Indy InW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

ternational Wine Competition (Double gold) Best Buy! Seven Falls Cellars $15 2012 Chardonnay, Wahluke Slope While the Wahluke Slope is not best known for Chardonnay, this Ste. Michelle label reveals why we should probably pay more attention to the potential for white grapes from here. This is a crisp, restrained and food-friendly example with aromas and flavors of almond extract, melon and ripe apple. It’s all backed with a zippy mouth feel and a refreshing finish. (27,000 cases; 13.5% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Gold) Alexandria Nicole Cellars $42 2012 Wild One Cabernet Franc, Horse Heaven Hills Owner/winemaker Jarrod Boyle and wife/marketing maven Ali have a knack for naming their wines, and this Cab Franc is especially appropriate. This red has a wild streak of mint, sweet herbs and lavender underlying aromas and flavors of red currant, Rainier cherry and pomegranate. Tannins build from the midpalate through the finish, providing superb balance and a memorable conclusion. (181 cases; 14.5% alc.) Medals: Sunset In-

ternational Wine Competition (Gold), Seattle Wine Awards (Gold) Harry & David Vineyards $20 2010 Beeson Tempranillo Dessert Wine, Southern Oregon Harry & David, famous for its luscious Oregon pears, has been branching out into delicious wines. This fortified dessert wine is simply gorgeous, thanks to aromas of cherry preserves and floral notes, followed by decadent flavors of dense blackberry, black cherry and cigar box. It’s beautifully weighted and has a finish that goes on forever. (320 cases; 18.6% alc.) Medal: Wine Press Northwest fortified judging (Outstanding) Pend d’Oreille Winery $21 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington Longtime North Idaho vintner Steve Meyer gets a good percentage of his grapes from nearby Washington and does magical things with them. This gorgeous Cab is rich and deep in the nose, with aromas of vanilla bean, black tea and ripe dark fruit. On the palate, it is suave yet dense, with full-bodied flavors of blackberry, ripe dark cherry and a kiss of mint that adds depth and dimension. (397 cases; 41.1% alc.) Medal: Great Northwest W i n t e r 2 015 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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Wine Competition (Gold) Best Buy! Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery

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2014 Dry Rock Vineyards Unoaked Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley Walk through Walter Gehringer’s cellar and you won’t see an oak barrel in sight. Never have, never will. So it makes perfect sense for him to craft a delicious tree-free Chardonnay that hints at bright Pinot Gris in style. It’s fruity and fabulous, with aromas and flavors of dried apricot, Pink Lady apple, tangerine zest and lemony acidity in the finish. (500 cases; 13.2% alc.) Medal: Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (Gold) Backyard Vineyards $20 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Okanagan Valley Wineries in the Lower Mainland are somewhat rare, especially compared with the plethora that have sprung up in the Okanagan Valley the past 15 years. But this Fraser Valley producer just north of Lynden, Wash., has been at it for a half-decade crafting delicious wines. This Cab reveals just the slightest hint of oak, followed by a trace of mint 44

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and elegant dark and red fruit. The modest tannins are perfectly handled in this pretty, understated red. (330 cases; 13.9% alc.) Medal: AllCanadian Wine Championships (Double gold)

tropical fruit. Most importantly, it is backed with terrific acidity that lifts the fruit and helps it to dance across the palate. (151 cases; 10.6% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold)

Wedge Mountain Winery $28 NV Crested Butte Tawny, California Charlie McKee crafts his wines in the North Central Washington town of Peshastin. For this dessert wine, he brought in traditional Portuguese varieties from California’s Central Valley. The resulting wine is a gorgeous, nutty tawny-style sipper with aromas of savory spice, barbecued brisket and brown sugar. On the palate, it reveals flavors of dried cherry, coffee and Tootsie Roll. (63 cases; 19.5% alc.) Medal: Wine Press Northwest fortified judging (Outstanding)

Gordon Estate $30 2012 Block 3 Merlot, Columbia Valley Jeff Gordon began planting his vineyard overlooking the Snake River north of Pasco, Wash., in the early 1980s and has long produced delicious Merlots. This block-designated red is a beautiful wine with aromas of red cherry, spice and a trace of herbal tea. On the palate, this elegant wine reveals flavors of pomegranate, red currant and Rainier cherry, all backed by well-integrated oak and tannin structure. (126 cases; 13.8% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Gold)

Finn Hill Winery $35 2013 Rosebud Vineyard En Fleur Sémillon Ice Wine, Wahluke Slope Rob Entrekin started this winery in his Kirkland, Wash., garage, and he has found enough success to jump to nearby Woodinville to expand production to about 1,000 cases using grapes from top vineyards. This luscious dessert wine is loaded with aromas and flavors of white peach, spice, fig and

Maryhill Winery $30 2012 McKinley Springs Vineyard Cinsault, Horse Heaven Hills Cinsault is a rare grape in the New World, though it is an important red variety in southern France and Algeria. New Zealand native Richard Batchelor puts it on rare center stage with this beautiful and fun bottling using grapes from famed McKinley Springs. It’s an easy-going wine with aromas W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

platinum TASTING RESULTS

and flavors of red currant, cranberry and a hint of orange zest. (357 cases; 14.6% alc.) Medal: San Francisco International Wine Competition (Double gold) Thurston Wolfe $18 2014 Albariño, Yakima Valley Longtime Yakima Valley winemaker Wade Wolfe has mastered this bright Spanish white in the past few years, and this is one of his finest efforts to date. Aromas of lime and tropical fruit give way to flavors of guava and mango backed by steely minerality. This is a delicious wine to serve with crab dip, clam chowder or seared scallops. (127 cases; 13% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold) Intrigue Wines $17 2014 Pinot Gris, Okanagan Valley Located midway between Kelowna and Vernon on the east side of Okanagan Lake, Intrigue Wines is one of the most northerly wineries in the world. This beautiful Pinot Gris offers enticing aromas of white peach, pear and lime zest. Orchard and citrus fruit are backed by cleansing acidity that balances the flavors and lifts the wine through to a memorable finish. Enjoy with chicken or pasta W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

dishes. (850 cases; 12.7% alc.) Medals: Northwest Wine Summit (Gold), All Canadian Wine Championships (Gold), BC Wine Awards (Gold)

Best Buy! Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery

Henry Earl Estates $40 2010 Homesteader, Red Mountain This Cab-leading blend takes advantage of ripe red grapes from estate fruit on Red Mountain. Aromas of floral notes, cherry and cranberry lead to rich, dark flavors of cigar, blackberry, black currant and savory spice. Luscious tannins lovingly wrap themselves around the elegant fruit for a long, delicious farewell. (298 cases; 14.7% alc.) Medals: Great Northwest Wine Competition (Gold), Sunset International Wine Competition (Gold)

2014 Classic Riesling, Okanagan Valley The King of the Platinums is at it again. This is the fifth Platinum since 2008 for this Riesling by Walter Gehringer. It is a delicate white with aromas and flavors of white blossoms, passionfruit, pear and apple. While Rieslings tend to age quite nicely, this example should become particularly interesting with some time in the cellar. (2,400 cases; 13.3% alc.) Medals: Great Northwest Wine Competition (Gold/best of class), Los Angeles International Wine Competition (Gold), Northwest Wine Summit (Gold)

Cubanisimo Vineyards $40 2012 Estate Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Mauricio Collada Jr., a native of Havana, Cuba, pays tribute to his homeland with the name of his winery near Salem, Ore. This pretty Pinot Noir reveals elegant and bright aromas and flavors of strawberry, mint, violet and President plum. It’s all backed by succulent acidity and just enough tannin to pair nicely with prime rib or beef stew. (632 cases; 12.5% alc.) Medal: Savor Northwest (Gold)

Fort Berens Estate Winery $25 2013 Pinot Noir, British Columbia One might not think of Lillooet, British Columbia, as the place to grow wine grapes, but this winery on the Fraser River about 100 miles north of Hope is proving to be intriguing indeed. This spicy Pinot Noir exhibits aromas and flavors of cherry cream soda, spice, cranberry and a dusting of cocoa, all backed by mild tannin, tamed acidity

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K IN G O F T HE PL AT IN UM With another eight Platinums this year, Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery south of Oliver, British Columbia, easily retains the title of “King of the Platinum.” Walter and Gordon Gehringer have won at least one Platinum medal every year except 2001 and 2006. Here are the wineries that have won at least 10 Platinums during the competition’s first 16 years: ❧ ❧ ❧ ❧ ❧ ❧ ❧ ❧ ❧ ❧ ❧ ❧ ❧ ❧ ❧ ❧ ❧ ❧ ❧

Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery: 55 Maryhill Winery: 31 Chateau Ste. Michelle: 25 Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate: 25 Barnard Griffin: 20 Zerba Cellars: 20 Wild Goose Vineyards: 19 Thurston Wolfe: 16 La Frenz Winery: 16 Kiona Vineyards & Winery: 13 Watermill Winery: 13 Dusted Valley Vintners: 12 Walla Walla Vintners: 12 Michelle Sparkling Wines: 11 Jones of Washington: 11 Alexandria Nicole Cellars: 10 L’Ecole No. 41: 10 Tsillan Cellars: 10 Willamette Valley Vineyards: 10

and responsible alcohol. (524 cases; 12.5% alc.) Medal: Pacific Rim Wine Competition (Gold) Karma Vineyards $50 2011 Brut, Columbia Valley Let’s face it: The world is a happier place when a bottle of bubbly has been opened. And that means this winery on the south shore of Lake Chelan should be filled with smiles. Under the direction of winemaker Craig Mitrakul, Karma is crafting some of the best sparkling wine in the Pacific Northwest. This dry sparkler opens with lovely aromas of fresh-baked bread, pear and apple, followed by luscious flavors of Meyer sweet lemon and Asian pear. It’s all backed by bright acidity and a creamy texture. (300 cases; 12.5% alc.) Medal: Wine Press Northwest sparkling wine judging (Outstanding) Abiqua Wind Vineyard $22 2012 Isaac’s Reserve Estate Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Pete Buffington runs this small winery northeast of Salem, Ore., crafting wines of elegance and value. This delicious Pinot Noir from estate grapes opens with aromas of boysenberry, sweet cherry and cranberry. On the palate, it offers bright, stellar flavors of red and blue fruit, all backed by juicy acidity and mild tannins with finesse. (136 cases; 13.5% alc.) Medal: Savor Northwest (Double gold/best of class) 46

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Upper Bench Estate Winery $22 2013 Riesling, Okanagan Valley The dynamic team of Gavin Miller (winemaking) and his wife, Shana (cheesemaker), own this winery west of Penticton on the southern edge of the famed Naramata Bench. This gorgeous Riesling provides aromas of lime zest and pear, followed by flavors of minerality and citrus. This is bone dry with beautiful angles. It’s an intriguing wine that should age beautifully for years to come. (404 cases; 12.5% alc.) Medal: Great Northwest Wine Competition (Double gold) The Pines 1852 $28 2013 Pinot Noir, Columbia Gorge This winery in Hood River, Ore., is famous for its Zinfandel, a wine made from century-old vines. As such, some of its other wines get overlooked, such as this superb Pinot Noir using grapes from the Columbia Gorge. This opens with complex aromas of orange zest, Dr Pepper, and cherries, followed by creamy flavors on the palate that are backed with crisp acidity. A sensational effort. (250 cases; 13.8% alc.) Medal: Great Northwest Wine Competition (Gold/best of class)

Blakeslee Vineyard Estate $28 2013 Estate Riesling, Willamette Valley This winery on the road from Portland to Dundee has been crafting delicious wines under the direction of acclaimed winemaker Robert Brittan, and this Riesling reveals the potential of this noble grape in the cool Willamette Valley. It’s Germanic in style, thanks to aromas and flavors of spice, ripe pear and gravelly minerality. It is a beautiful and distinctive wine. (350 cases; 11.1% alc.) Medals: Savor Northwest (Gold), San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (Double gold) Best Buy! Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery

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2014 Desert Sun, Okanagan Valley This blend of Auxerrois, Chardonnay and Riesling is no stranger to Platinums, having attained the status four other times since 2008. It’s a gorgeous off-dry white with aromas of cling peach, lemon pie and green apple. It’s wonderfully complex with a nice blend of tartness and sweetness. (2,700 cases; 12.9% alc.) Medals: Great Northwest Wine Competition (Gold), Indy International Wine Competition (Double gold/best of class) Walla Walla Vintners $30 2012 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley Here’s another instant classic from winemaker William vonMetzger at this two-decade-old win-

ery east of downtown Walla Walla. Aromas of violet and blueberry fill the nose, and flavors of juicy plum, blackberry and dark chocolate-covered cherries fill the palate. Gorgeous structure and texture lead to sweet tannins and plenty of length. (588 cases; 14.2% alc.) Medals: Savor Northwest (Gold), Pacific Rim Wine Competition (Gold), Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold) Cave B Estate Winery $35 2012 Estate Barbera, Columbia Valley Through great winemaking, Freddy Arredondo has raised the profile of this showpiece winery next to the Gorge Amphitheater in North Central Washington. This Barbera from estate vineyards is a plush, full red with aromas of clove, anise, cedar and cherry jam, followed by beautifully balanced flavors of cherry cola, rich juiciness and boysenberry syrup. (148 cases; 14.1% alc.) Medal: North Central Washington Wine Awards (Gold) Clearwater Canyon Cellars $28 2013 Carménère, Washington For the third consecutive year, this little winery in Lewiston, Idaho, has won a Platinum for this rare red Bordeaux variety. It’s a stylish wine with a sense of succulence to it. Aromas of red and dark fruit lead to rich flavors of red currant and blackberry, all backed with modest oak and elegant tannins. (120 cases; 14.7% alc.) Medal: Idaho Wine Competition (Gold) Zerba Cellars $45 2012 Cockburn Vineyard Mourvèdre, Walla Walla Valley Most often used as a blending grape in the Southern Rhône Valley, this bold red is making a name for itself in the Pacific Northwest. This example opens with penetrating aromas of ripe black fruit and spicy, sensual oak. On the palate, big flavors of dark fruit are backed by modest tannins and ample acidity. This will pair well with grilled meats or rich Italian dishes. (185 cases; 14.6% alc.) Medal: Oregon Wine Awards (Gold) Newhouse Family Vineyards $36 2013 Upland Vineyard Cottontop Aligoté, Snipes Mountain This white grape is common in the Old World, particularly France’s Burgundy, but it is rare on the West Coast and, particularly, in Washington. This delicious example is part of the Newhouse family, which has grown wine grapes on Snipes Mountain in the Yakima Valley since the 1960s. It opens with ample aromas of tropical and orchard fruits, particularly banana and pineapple. A gorgeous mouth feel leads to flavors of citrus and pear, all backed by pretty acidity. (143 cases; 14.4% alc.) Medals: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (Double gold), Seattle Wine Awards (Gold) Maryhill Winery $30 2012 McKinley Springs Vineyard Petit Verdot, Horse Heaven Hills Winemaker Richard Batchelor takes advantage of the superb viticulture conducted by the Andrews family in the Horse Heaven Hills. Aromas of mint, W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

platinum TASTING RESULTS eucalyptus, tobacco and black raspberry lead to flavors of Baker’s chocolate, elegant herbal notes and ripe red and dark fruit. It’s all backed by rich tannins that lead to a lengthy finish. (142 cases; 14.4% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Gold)

Aromas of sweet herbs, cherry and blueberry lead to flavors of citrus, apple and ripe dark red fruit. This has beautiful balance and plenty of personality. (360 cases; 14.2% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold)

Alexandria Nicole Cellars $25 2012 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Quarry Butte, Horse Heaven Hills Owner/winemaker Jarrod Boyle crafted this juicy red blend that leads with Cabernet Sauvignon using estate grapes from Destiny Ridge, a vineyard that was going to be a rock quarry. Aromas of cherry, vanilla soda and judicious oak lead to flavors of red currant, black cherry and roasted meat. Bright acidity and moderate tannins give this a memorable farewell. (1,193 cases; 14.5% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Gold)

CC Jentsch Cellars $30 2013 Syrah, Okanagan Valley With just its second release, this winery in the southern Okanagan Valley already is making its mark as one of the top producers in British Columbia. Aromas of smoky bacon, peppercorns and brambly fruit lead to flavors that are both herbaceous and rich, with forward red fruit. This has tremendous range on the palate. (1,200 cases; 13.8% alc.) Medal: All-Canadian Wine Championships (Gold)

Sinclair Estate Vineyards $40 2011 Pentatonic, Columbia Valley This Right Bank-style red blend leads with Merlot and includes Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. It’s tightly wound and layered with aromas and flavors of graphite, savory spice, red currant and dark berry. It’s a sophisticated red wine with refined tannins. (350 cases; 14.5% alc.) Medals: Riverside International Wine Competition (Gold), Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold) Best Buy! Anew $11 2012 Riesling, Columbia Valley This Riesling-focused label is owned by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, and this is the second consecutive year this particular bottling has earned a Platinum. A small amount of Gewürztraminer and Muscat in the blend gives this aromas of beautiful floral notes that lead to flavors of steely minerality, bright apple and ripe pear. The acidity carries all the fruit, and the finish is simply mouthwatering. (25,000 cases; 11.5% alc.) Medal: Denver Wine Competition (Gold) Best Buy! Vino la Monarcha $15 2014 Pinot Noir Rosé, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley Winemaker Victor Palencia had a big hit on his hands with this delicious Pinot Noir rosé using Washington grapes. It quickly sold out after winning best of show at the spring Great Northwest Wine Competition. It’s a classic pink wine with aromas and flavors of watermelon, red cherry and a bit of Jolly Rancher red berry. It’s all backed by bracing acidity. (182 cases; 12.6% alc.) Medals: Great Northwest Wine Competition (Double gold/Best of show), Pacific Rim Wine Competition (Gold) Ambassador Wines of Washington

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2012 Estate Syrah, Red Mountain This Woodinville, Wash., winery with an estate vineyard on renowned Red Mountain takes advantage of the winemaking prowess of Hedges’ Sarah Goedhart to craft this delicious Syrah. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

2Hawk Vineyard & Winery $40 2011 Limited Release Tempranillo, Southern Oregon Based near Medford, Ore., this winery was purchased in 2014 by Ross and Jennifer Allen. This reserve-level Tempranillo spent extra time aging in oak, with the result a delicious red with aromas of thyme, oregano, saddle leather and red currant. On the palate, flavors of cranberry, boysenberry, sweet mocha and ripe cherry are backed by tannins that are handled with a deft touch. (100 cases; 13.5% alc.) Medal: Oregon Wine Awards (Gold) JM Cellars $50 2012 Margaret's Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Walla Walla Valley Owner/winemaker John Bigelow developed this estate vineyard on the southern Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley, and that move is paying dividends with some of the top wines in Washington. This opens with mouthwatering aromas of blackberry and dark chocolate that prime the senses. On the palate, this is rich and full with flavors of black currant, caramel, dark chocolate and minerality. It’s a rich, intense and well-structured red backed by firm tannins. (317 cases; 14.5% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold) Chateau Ste. Michelle $28 2012 Canoe Ridge Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills Planted more than two decades ago on a bluff overlooking the Columbia River, Canoe Ridge Estate has turned out to be one of the star vineyards for Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. This engaging Cabernet Sauvignon opens with aromas of roasted coffee bean, blackberry and plum. Wellmanaged oak notes lead to flavors of intense dark fruit accented by Baker’s chocolate. This is a persistent, age-worthy wine. (5,400 cases; 14.5% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold) Alexandria Nicole Cellars $42 2012 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Alderdale Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills There’s a reason some of the largest plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon in Washington are in and around the tiny community of Alderdale in the southern Horse Heaven Hills: It might just be the

sweet spot for the noble red wine in Washington. This example is loaded with aromas and flavors of black cherry, blackberry, violet, chocolate, black tea and a bouquet of roses. (443 cases; 14.6% alc.) Medal: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (Double gold) Mission Hill Family Estate $26 2012 Late Harvest Vidal, Okanagan Valley Mission Hill not only is one of the province’s oldest wineries, but it’s also one of the most beautiful anywhere. This gorgeous dessert wine is lighter in body than bolder ice wines and reveals a hint of spicy botrytis, along with haunting notes of sweet raspberry, red currant, muskiness and elberta peach syrup. (1,230 cases; 8% alc.) Medal: Los Angeles International Wine Competition (Gold/best of class) Maryhill Winery $28 2012 McKinley Springs Vineyard Mourvèdre, Horse Heaven Hills When Maryhill Winery launched its “Vineyards” series of wines, the Goldendale, Wash., producer really boosted its game by crafting new and exciting bottlings from some of the state’s top vineyards. This gorgous Mourvèdre offers aromas and flavors of fresh cherry, exotic spices and a sprinkling of cocoa powder. This would pair perfectly with pork topped with a cherry reduction sauce. (386 cases; 15.3% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Gold) Best Buy! Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery

$14

2014 Ehrenfelser, Okanagan Valley Ehrenfelser is a rare German hybrid grape named for Burg Ehrenfels, an old castle. It’s an early ripening white grape that works beautifully in marginal areas. This gorgeous example reveals aromas and flavors of minerality, lime zest, Granny Smith apple, jasmine and lingering Key lime. The tingly acidity is a reminder of just how well this will pair with oysters. (4,200 cases; 13% alc.) Medal: Northwest Wine Summit (Gold) Brian Carter Cellars $34 2011 Byzance, Columbia Valley Brian Carter has been crafting wine in Washington for 35 years and has access to some of the best grapes in the state. This Rhône-style red leads with Grenache and is simply gorgeous. Aromas and flavors of cranberry, red currant and strawberry jam are backed by cleansing acidity and just enough tannin to provide grip through the memorable finish. (539 cases; 14.2% alc.) Medals: TriCities Wine Festival (Best of show), Pacific Rim Wine Competition (Gold), Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold) Two Mountain Winery $16 2014 Riesling, Rattlesnake Hills The two Rawn brothers with a dream and views of Mount Adams and Mount Rainier have turned into one of the more endearing stories in the northern Yakima Valley. This luscious Riesling W i n t e r 2 015 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

TASTING RESULTS

platinum

H OW T HE PL AT IN UM I S CONDUCTED Wine Press Northwest created the Platinum Judging in 2000 as a way to determine some of the best wines each year in the Pacific Northwest. To accomplish this, we chart about 40 professionally judged wine competitions worldwide to track the gold medals won by wineries in Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and Idaho. In 2015, Northwest wineries were awarded more than 1,900 gold medals at professional judgings. The wines are categorized and judged blind during three days by three panels of wine experts, who award wines with Platinum, Double Gold, Gold or no medal. A wine is awarded a medal based on how a majority of the judges voted. In the case when all judges on a panel deem the wine a Platinum, that wine is awarded a unanimous Double Platinum. Based on each judge’s score, we are able to determine which wine or wines end up at the top — the best of the best. The 16th annual Platinum Judging took place Oct. 28-30 at the Clover Island Inn in Kennewick, Wash.

P L AT IN UM BY T HE N UM B E R S Here are a few statistics of interest about the 2015 Platinum Judging: ❧ Total entries: 698 ❧ Double Platinums: 28 (4%) ❧ Platinums: 115 (16.5%) ❧ Double golds: 313 (44.8%) ❧ Golds: 206 (29.5%) ❧ Total cases represented in this judging: 2,433,768 ❧ Average alcohol by volume: 14.1% ❧ Average price per bottle: $29.30 ❧ What it would cost to buy one bottle of every wine judged: $20,421 ❧ Appellations represented: Columbia Valley (189), Okanagan Valley (74), Walla Walla Valley (69), Red Mountain (36), Wahluke Slope (34), Horse Heaven Hills (33), Willamette Valley (32), Washington (29), Yakima Valley (29), Umpqua Valley (25), Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley (18), Rattlesnake Hills (18), Lake Chelan (16), Rogue Valley (13), Snake River Valley (13), Southern Oregon (13), Columbia Gorge (9), Chehalem Mountains (8), British Columbia (6), Idaho (4), Naches Heights (4), Oregon (4), Snipes Mountain (4), Elkton Oregon (3), Eola-Amity Hills (3), Puget Sound (3), Yamhill-Carlton (2), Alexander Valley (2), Applegate Valley (1), California (1), Dundee Hills (1), Fraser Valley (1), Washington/Idaho (1).

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opens with aromas of honeysuckle and ripe pineapple, followed by fresh flavors of peach, passion fruit and spice backed by slate and bracing acidity. It’s all so beautifully balanced. (786 cases; 13% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Gold) Best Buy! Mercer Estates $15 2014 Spice Cabinet Vineyard Rosé, Horse Heaven Hills Winemaker Jessica Munnell is coming into her own at Mercer Estates in Prosser, and this luscious pink wine leads with Grenache from the highly regarded Spice Cabinet Vineyard. Beautiful aromas of watermelon and subtle spice give way to pretty, balanced flavors of cranberry, strawberry and pomegranate. (692 cases; 13.2% alc.) Medals: Great Northwest Wine Competition (Gold), Indy International Wine Competition (Double gold), Seattle Wine Awards (Gold) Karma Vineyards $40 2011 Pink Bubbly, Columbia Valley Sparkling wine is the happiest of drinks, so we’re thankful that this winery on the south shore of Lake Chelan has chosen to focus on it. This gorgeous pink bubbly is one of the best we’ve run across in the Pacific Northwest, thanks to aromas of cherry, strawberry and fresh-baked bread and complex flavors of floral notes, spice, cranberry and red currant. The lively bubbles back up all the luscious flavors. (300 cases; 12.5% alc.) Medal: Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (Double gold/best sparkling wine) L’Ecole No. 41 $37 2012 Seven Hills Vineyard Estate Syrah, Walla Walla Valley Owner Marty Clubb and his winemaking team work with some of the best grapes in the Pacific Northwest, thanks to such estate vineyards as Seven Hills. This is a luscious yet precise wine whose purity of fruit is its hallmark. Enticing aromas of cured meat, violets and blueberry give way to flavors of subtle oak, black tea and blackberry jam with a hint of spice backed by plush tannins. (1,040 cases; 15% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold) Beaumont Cellars $30 2014 Tempranillo, Wahluke Slope Owner/winemaker Pete Beaumont gained his reputation with Syrah, and he now works with many grape varieties, including the Spanish Tempranillo. This beautiful example uses fruit from the warm and arid Wahluke Slope. It’s a luscious red with aromas of smoky cherry, minerality and dark chocolate, followed by dense flavors of ripe pomegranate and Rainier cherry. It shows off youthful accessibility. (47 cases; 13.5% alc.) Medal: North Central Washington Wine Awards (Double gold/best of class) Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $42 2013 Signature Series Riesling Icewine, Okanagan Valley This is Walter Gehringer’s fifth Platinum for Riesling ice wine — and fourth since 2010. Let’s just say he has the process down pat. Aromas of ripe apple, pear, lime and agave nectar give way to flavors of poached fruit drizzled with lavender-infused honey. Pair with blue cheeses, cheesecake or fresh tropical fruit such as pineapple, mango and kiwi. (900 cases; 10.4% alc.) Medals: All-Canadian Wine Championships (Gold), Los Angeles International Wine Competition (Gold) Ledger David Cellars $35 2012 Tempranillo, Rogue Valley This winery and vineyard just north of the California border is gaining a reputation with this robust red Spanish grape, and here’s a classic Southern Oregon example. Aromas of sweet oak and dark fruit lead to flavors of savory spice, boysenberry jam and earthy, loamy notes that are backed by bright acidity and moderate tannins that lead to a lingering finish. (95 cases; 14.8% alc.) Medal: Finger Lakes Wine Competition (Gold) Patterson Cellars $23 2013 Late Harvest Roussanne, Columbia Valley John Patterson learned his winemaking craft at famed Quilceda Creek Vintners before opening his own operation in Woodinville, Wash. This is a remarkable dessert wine with aromas of exotic spices and crème brûlée, followed by flavors of vanilla ice cream and ripe mango. (600 cases; 12.1% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold)

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platinum TASTING RESULTS Best Buy! Camas Prairie Winery $14 2015 Strawberry Mead, Idaho This longtime winery founded in the northern Idaho college town of Moscow has been creating honey-based mead for many years, and this delicious example is infused with strawberry to make a luscious dessert wine. Aromas and flavors of lemon taffy, sweet lychee and strawberry freezer jam are backed by surprising acidity that make this more than a straight sipper. Might we suggest this with pumpkin pie? (48 cases; 12% alc.) Medal: Idaho Wine Competition (Gold) Aberrant Cellars $49 2012 Gran Moraine Vineyard Amplus Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton The Yamhill-Carlton area of the northern Willamette Valley is home to some of the most fascinating Pinot Noirs. They tend to be dark, earthy, wild and intriguing. This example is no exception, thanks to aromas of mint, spice and racy red currant, followed by flavors of cranberry compote and a dusting of cocoa powder. It’s all backed with abundant acidity and modest tannins, leading to a lengthy finish. (382 cases; 13.9% alc.) Medal: Oregon Wine Awards (Double gold) Reininger Winery $51 2012 Seven Hills Vineyard Carménère, Walla Walla Valley Owner/winemaker Chuck Reininger has been fascinated with Carménère for many years, and as such, he crafts some of the best in the Northwest. This example from a superb vintage and vineyard opens with classic characteristics of cherry, leather and a trace of black pepper. On the palate, it reveals flavors of spicy oak and ample ripe dark fruit, including blackberry and black cherry. Enjoy with lamb or bacon. (336 cases; 14.1% alc.) Medal: Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (Gold) Obelisco Estate $45 2012 Malbec, Red Mountain Doug Long’s career in wine began in the early 1970s in Napa Valley, where he gained great acclaim. When retirement to Gig Harbor, Wash., didn’t stick, Long launched Obelisco with an estate vineyard on famed Red Mountain and a winery in 2007. This second act for Long is producing superb wines, with this Malbec one of his best efforts yet. Aromas and flavors of dense blackberry, moist earth and cured meat are backed by powerful, full-bodied and balanced structure that reveals pure expression of fruit. (240 cases; 14.9% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Gold) Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $19 2014 Optimum Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley Of this winery’s record 55 Platinum medals, only three have been red wines, including this delicious

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and elegant Pinot Noir. Aromas of cherry cream, raspberry and cardamom lead to flavors of ripe red fruit, including fresh cranberry and juicy boysenberry. A hint of oak influence shows throughout, alongside a touch of minerality. Mild tannins provide all the structure necessary. (300 cases; 12.5% alc.) Medal: Great Northwest Wine Competition (Gold) Westport Winery $30 2013 Swimmer Petite Sirah, Columbia Valley Few wineries put more miles on their truck during harvest than Westport Winery just eight miles from the Washington coast. Thankfully, the Roberts family makes the efforts or we might be deprived of delicious wines such as this Petite Sirah. Smoky aromas of blackberry compote and oak give way to flavors of intense dark fruit, including boysenberry and plum, all backed by reasonably moderate tannins. It’s a wine that is nicely put together. (154 cases; 14% alc.) Medal: Denver Wine Competition (Gold) Plain Cellars $30 2012 Petite Sirah, Yakima Valley Garrett Grubbs is the winemaker behind this up-and-coming winery near the North Central Washington community of Leavenworth, and he is crafting several superb red wines. This gorgeous Petite Sirah is loaded with aromas and flavors of concentrated dark fruit, black licorice and cherry pipe tobacco. It’s beautifully extracted without being over the top. Enjoy now or tuck in your cellar for a few years. (100 cases; 13.9% alc.) Medal: North Central Washington Wine Awards (Gold) Tsillan Cellars $18 2014 Estate Viognier, Lake Chelan Owner Bob Jankelson and winemaker Shane Collins have teamed up to turn this winery on the southern shore of Lake Chelan into one of the true destination wineries of the Pacific Northwest. And Lake Chelan is proving to be a great place for Viognier, a fickle white grape. This example opens with subtle aromas of floral and stone fruit notes, followed by flavors of orange and ripe orchard fruit. (143 cases; 13.8% alc.) Medal: Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold) Chateau Faire Le Pont $46 2011 Confluence, Washington Based in Wenatchee, Wash., Chateau Faire Le Pont has established itself as one of the top producers of red blends not only in North Central Washington but also the state. This Cab-leading red reveals aromas and flavors of elegant red fruit, moderate use of oak and red and black currant. It’s a delicious and approachable wine. (250 cases; 13.7% alc.) Medal: North Central Washington Wine Awards (Double gold)

Finn Hill Winery $18 2013 The Gnome Riesling, Columbia Valley This luscious Riesling is named for the Finnish mythological creature, which can bring good luck. But winemaker Rob Entrekin needs no luck to craft his delicious wines. This impeccable effort unveils pristine fruit with noticeable floral and spice notes and a broad midpalate loaded with flavors of ripe pear and crisp apple. (137 cases; 12.5% alc.) Medals: Great Northwest Wine Competition (Gold), Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold) CC Jentsch Cellars $50 2012 Syrah, Okanagan Valley This winery just north of the U.S. border is proving its prowess with cool-climate Syrah, and this is the second of two Platinums this year. Aromas of leather, green tea and sweet hay lead to flavors of coffee, toffee, cranberry and ripe raspberry. It’s a delicious and utterly fascinating wine with an elegant palate and a lengthy finish. (600 cases; 13% alc.) Medal: National Wine Awards of Canada (Gold) Tsillan Cellars $16 2014 Estate Sempre Amore, Lake Chelan Winemaker Shane Collins leads with Pinot Gris on this delicious white blend using estate grapes. Aromas of lychee, orange zest and starfruit lead to flavors of kiwi, Mandarin orange, Asian pear and apple. It is a deliciously tart presentation with beautiful balance of mild sweetness and bright acidity. (423 cases; 13.5% alc.) Medals: North Central Washington Wine Awards (Gold), Indy International Wine Competition (Gold), Seattle Wine Awards (Double gold) Spangler Vineyards $25 2012 Zinfandel, Alexander Valley Owner/winemaker Patrick Spangler occasionally heads to California for grapes, and this is one of those examples: a Zin from Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley. It is an impressive effort with aromas and flavors of strawberry, red currant, raspberry and pomegranate. It’s a delicious, drinknow red. (325 cases; 14.9% alc.) Medal: Tasters Guild International (Gold) is editor and publisher of Great Northwest Wine, an award-winning news and information company. He’s also the wine columnist for The Seattle Times.

ANDY PERDUE

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FEATURE

wine festival results

Brian Carter Cellars Rhône-style red top wine at Tri-Cities Wine Festival Wine Press Northwest’s 2015 Washington Winery of the Year, Brian Carter Cellars, took home the top award at the 37th annual Tri-Cities Wine Festival for it’s 2011 Byzance. A Southern Rhône-style red blend, the 2011 Byzance was just released to the public this past October. This award winner sports a complex nose of bright red cherries, tar, white pepper and herbes de Provence. According to winemaker, Brian Carter, “This wine literally explodes in your mouth with lots of bright fruit, and finishes with a long slightly earthy mineral note. Great balance and a hint of tannin make Byzance a great match for a wide range of foods and a terrific addition to a holiday table.” More than 80 wineries provided 428 wines for this year’s event, held every November at Three Rivers Convention Center in Kennewick, Wash. Here’s the top wines from the competition.

BEST OF SHOW Brian Carter Cellars 2011 Byzance

BEST OF VARIETAL Airfield Estates 2012 Merlot Jones of Washington 2014 Estate Pinot Gris Milbrandt Vineyards 2014 The Estates Chardonnay Plumb Cellars 2012 Syrah Ribbon Cliff Vineyards 2013 Malbec Smasne Cellars 2012 Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon

BEST OF CLASS Anelare 2013 Nonna Viola Red Kiona Vineyards & Winery 2013 Estate Bottled Red Mountain Reserve

DOUBLE GOLD ra

Airfield Estates 2012 Merlot, 2013 Barbe-

Almquist Family Vintners 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Destiny Ridge Vineyard, 2009

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • W i n t e r 2 015

Vereyida Ponce, a student in the Yakima Valley Community College wine making program serves samples of the student-made wines to attendees at Tri-City Wine Festival.

Cabernet Sauvignon Northridge Vineyard Ancestry Cellars 2012 Reserve Cabernet Anelare 2013 Nonna Viola Red Apex Cellars 2012 Grenache Brian Carter Cellars 2011 Byzance Castillo de Feliciana Vineyard & Winery 2014 Albariño College Cellars of Walla Walla 2014 Tempranillo, 2015 Muscat Columbia Crest 2014 H3 Sauvignon Blanc Cottage Island Winery 2013 Deadhead Red Petit Verdot Coyote Canyon Winery 2012 H/H Estates Robert Andrews Mourvèdre, 2014 Life is Rosé Barbera, 2014 Roussanne , 2014 Sweet Lousie Late Harvest Viognier Riesling, 2014 Viognier DavenLore Winery 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Gordon Estate 2014 Gewürztraminer Ice Wine Henry Earl Estates 2013 Riesling The Hogue Cellars 2014 terroir Edelzwicker Jones of Washington 2012 Jack’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, 2014 Riesling, 2014 Estate Pinot Gris

Kiona Vineyards & Winery 2012 Old Block, 2013 Chardonnay, 2013 Estate Bottled Red Mountain Reserve, 2014 Chenin Blanc Red Mountain Ice Wine Market Vineyards 2012 Basis Points Red Wine Martinez & Martinez 2014 May Mae Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon Michelle Brut Milbrandt Vineyards 2012 Sentinel Northridge Vineyard Red Wine, 2014 The Estates Chardonnay Pacific Rim Winemakers 2012 Noble Wine Riesling Palencia Wine 2014 Sauvignon Blanc Plumb Cellars 2012 Syrah Smasne Cellars 2011 Mourvèdre, 2012 Cabernet Franc, 2012 Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon Terra Blanca Estate Vineyard 2009 Signature Series Cabernet Sauvignon Treveri Cellars Rosé Sec, Blanc de Blancs Brut Upland Estates 2011 Old Vine Cabernet Wilridge Winery 2013 Estate Zweigelt Yakima Valley Vintners (YVCC) 2013 Primitivo

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wine festival results GOLD Nota Bene Cellars 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, 2012 Syrah, 2013 Chardonnay Almquist Family Vintners 2013 Kira’s Cuvée Red Wine, 2013 Raven’s Petit(e) Red Wine Ancestry Cellars 2012 Le Frère, 2012 Provocant Heritage Series, 2013 Reminiscence Riesling, 2014 Le Cortège Chenin Blanc Anelare 2013 Carménère Baroness Cellars 2012 Grenache Basalt Cellars 2013 GSM Bergdorf Cellars 2010 Mourvèdre Brian Carter Cellars 2011 Corrida Cairdeas Winery 2013 TRi Red Wine Blend, 2014 Nellie Mae Castillo de Feliciana Vineyard & Winery 2012 Tempranillo Reserve College Cellars of Walla Walla 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, 2013 Petit Verdot Columbia Crest 2012 Walter Clore Private Reserve Columbia Valley Red Wine Coyote Canyon Winery H/H Estates Pour It Charlie, 2011 Grenache, 2011 H/H Estates Reserve Big John Cab, 2012 H/H Estates Reserve Michael Andrews Red DavenLore Winery 2011 Dr. Davenport Syrah Forté Enchanted Cellars (formerly Glencorrie Winery) 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon FairWinds Winery 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills, Champoux Vineyards; 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Ginkgo Forest Winery 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, 2011 Cabernet Franc, 2012 Mourvèdre Glen Fiona 2012 Syrah Goose Ridge Vineyards 2012 Cellar Select Artist Series “Iris” Gordon Estate 2013 Malbec Hidden Legend Winery 2014 Skalkaho Red Jones of Washington 2012 Reserve Malbec, 2014 Estate Chardonnay Kestrel Vintners 2012 Signature Series Petit Verdot, 2012 Winemakers Select Series Cabernet Franc Kiona Vineyards & Winery 2012 Cabernet Franc, 2014 Estate Bottled Red Mountain Gewürztraminer, 2014 Riesling Kitzke Cellars 2012 Malbec, 2012 Nebbiolo, 2014 Viognier Le Chateau 2012 Petit Verdot Market Vineyards 2010 Merval Malbec, W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

2012 Arbitrage Cabernet Sauvignon, 2012 Derivative Red Wine Martinez & Martinez 2011 Dominio De Martinez Cabernet Sauvignon Mellisoni Vineyards 2014 45° Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2014 Madeleine Angevine Naches Heights Vineyard 2012 Cabernet Franc, 2014 Pinot Gris Northwest Wine Academy (South Seattle College) 2014 Riesling, 2014 Rosé Pacific Rim Winemakers 2013 Gewürztraminer Palencia Wine 2013 Casa Amarilla, 2013 Grenache, 2013 Syrah Pend d’Oreille Winery 2012 Syrah Plumb Cellars 2010 Damn Straight Red Wine, 2012 Estate Sangiovese Purple Star Wines 2013 Riesling Ribbon Cliff Vineyards 2013 Malbec Russell Creek Winery 2009 Tributary Red Wine San Juan Vineyards 2014 Estate Grown

FEATURE

Madeleine Angevine Silver Lake Winery 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Series Sinclair Estate Vineyards 2012 Syrah Smasne Cellars 2012 Block #4 Syrah, 2012 County Line Red, 2012 Late Harvest Muscat, 2012 Petite Sirah, 2012 Three Vineyard Reserve Petit Verdot, 2013 Aligoté Sol Stone Winery 2013 Stoners Red Thurston Wolfe 2012 Zephyr Ridge Petite Sirah, 2013 Touriga Nacional Port Treveri Cellars Blanc de Noir Upland Estates 2010 Julian, 2011 Chardonnay, 2011 Grenache Vines for Humanity 2014 Late Harvest Gewürztraminer Welcome Road Winery 2012 Syrah Willow Crest Winery 2013 Cabernet Franc, 2014 Rosé Wine, 2014 Pinot Gris Wilridge Winery 2013 Estate Barbera Yakima Valley Vintners (YVCC) 2012 Campus Blend Red Wine, 2013 Dean’s List Tempranillo

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toasty tastings FEATURE

Wineries with fireplaces take the chill out of winter tasting BY JADE HELM

here is something about a fireplace the sounds, the smells. It holds a sense of comfort and nostalgia for simpler times. A fireplace is welcoming. It says, “Come and sit. Warm yourself. Stay awhile, at least until the logs burn down.” Of course the offer of something to sip is implied. Not far from Eugene, Ore., are two wineries inviting visitors to relax in the warmth of a glowing fire and gaze at wintry vineyard views through windowed walls. Sit just close enough to enjoy the beauty of an evergreen Oregon winter, without feeling the chill or damp.

SWEET CHEEKS WINERY The name “Sweet Cheeks” means exactly what it sounds like it means. When Dan Smith purchased the property with its two rounded hills his father-in-law said, “You know that looks like…” This sense of fun spills into the tasting room where the atmosphere is more like a neighborhood bar. Beginning at the entry, the arched oak door with Bacchus inspired carvings is a clue to the attention to detail that can be expected. One side of the room is dominated with a massive tasting bar and deli case full of local treats like candies from Holm Made Toffee Co. In the corner is a cozy wood-burning stove. Multiple tables are arranged inside and out, inviting guests to bring friends and socialize. On the covered patio is a smaller bar, yet another wood burning stove, and a “fire table” to chase the chill. The walls are glass garage doors and plastic sheeting that can both roll up depending on the weather. One patron described the setting, “Sitting around the fire on the patio when it’s cold and rainy was so cozy. I loved sipping wine while listening to the rain and watching the fog rolling into the vines.” Taking full advantage of this ideal setting W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

The Fireplace Pavilion at Pfeiffer Vineyards provides a cozy setting for winter wine tasting.

for year round sipping, Sweet Cheeks, plans two parties every weekend. Guests are invited to pack picnics and enjoy local musicians on the patio for Mimosa Sundays and Friday’s Twilight Tastings. The basic wine tasting is always complimentary and purchases are available by the bottle or glass. Expect estate Pinot Noir, Riesling, and Pinot Gris, Because Sweet Cheeks aims to please, some fruit is purchased, allowing for surprises like Tempranillo. Those wanting to have a true getaway can

Mark E Helm Contributing Photographer

arrange lodging at either the Farmhouse or Loft, which are both steps away from the tasting room. In addition to the weekly events, a special Feast in the Cellar winemaker’s dinner is scheduled for Feb. 6. Visit sweetcheekswinery.com for more information.

PFEIFFER VINEYARDS Special events and year-round tasting are held at Pfeiffer Vineyards’ aptly named FiW i n t e r 2 015 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

FEATURE

toasty tastings

replace Pavilion. A wood-burning fireplace with floor to ceiling stone surround transforms this converted barn into a wintry retreat. Overhead are twinkly fairy lights and all around are views of the vineyard and a four-tiered water garden. The fireplace is lit on chilly weekends for cozy tastings and of course gooey toasted marshmallows. In addition to estate wines, a port-style tasting is available in fancy little glasses that look like genie lamps and fit in the palm - a perfect fireside indulgence. Guests leave the cool light of winter to enter the adjacent tasting room. Dimmed lights, the flicker of electric candles and a gold and burgundy Tuscan theme lend an Old World cave-like atmosphere. Ambient music plays. It is The Girl from Ipanema. On one side of the room, a solid wood door, four inches thick, leads to the grotto. In this darkened room, Robin Pfeiffer leads the Pinot Clinic, a vertical tasting. Candlelight reflects the blush of Pinot noir on everyone’s faces as Robin Pfeiffer highlights the wines’ richness and textures in this unusual sensory context. This elegant setting, with no detail over-

looked, is the handiwork of Robin Pfeiffer and his wife Danuta Pfeiffer. They are a self-proclaimed “dynamic couple, unafraid of hard work and calculated risks.” The claim is supported. Robin Pfeiffer grew up on this land farming chickens and sheep. Life wasn’t easy. The small family home burned soon after they moved in and the family had to relocate “temporarily” to the quonset they used as a chicken house. They stayed there 25 years. The tide began to turn when a French buyer called a few times inquiring to buy the family land. Robin Pfeiffer, a curious twentysomething, wondered, “What do they know that we don’t?” Upon discovering the interest was in growing Pinot noir, he hired a vineyard specialist to evaluate the soil and site. On a scale from 1-10 the rating was a 15. The family began planting in the late 1970s and were among the first grape growers in Lane County. Robin Pfeiffer’s Dad, Harold Pfeiffer, was not too keen on the idea of this risky grape business. For the first five years, Harold Pfeiffer looked over his shoulder reportedly making “hmmpph” sounds at the “far-fetched idea.”

The first check for fruit sales was ten times their normal earnings for livestock. It was the biggest check Harold Pfeiffer had seen. For 15 years, the family only sold fruit. Danuta Pfeiffer helped realize the dream of the winery and tasting experiences available today. The Pfeiffers now keep 10 percent estate fruit for their own special label. The wines are available at the tables of dignitaries and presidents and in the creative tasting spaces at Pfeiffer Vineyards. In addition to premium Pinot Noir, the Pfeiffers offer unusual and enticing labels such as Tango Red, a blend of Merlot and Marechal Foche, and Anna Skye, a blend of Muscat and Gewurztraminer. Upcoming events include Sip and Create painting parties, a Sweetheart Dinner in the Fireplace Pavilion, and Valentines in the Villa - a special dinner in the Pfeiffers home. Visit pfeiffervineyards.com for more information. JADE HELM is the primary author of Tasting Pour, a wine blog. Based in Oregon, she is a Diplomate of the Wine and Spirits Educatin Trust of London and a Certified Specialist of Wine, Society of Wine Educators.

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NORTHWEST WINE EVENTS January 15-24 Lake Chelan Winterfest, Chelan, Wash. The Lake Chelan Wine Valley has expanded this to consecutive weekends. Go to lakechelanwinterfest.com.

13-15 and 20-21 Red Wine & Chocolate Tour, Olympic Peninsula, Wash. Member wineries on the peninsula and islands pour it on over two weekends and Presidents Day. Cost is $30. Call 800-785-5495 or go to olympicpeninsulawineries.org.

16-17, 22-24 and 29-31. Oregon Truffle Festival, now in its second decade, begins with the North American Truffle Dog Championship near Salem, then moves to Newberg and Eugene on successive weekends. Go to oregontrufflefestival.com.

20-21 Seattle Wine and Food Experience. Seattle Center’s McCaw Hall plays host to the eighth annual Northwest event including wines from Washington, Oregon and Idaho, more than 20 chefs and live music. Cost is $55. Go to seattlewineandfoodexperience.com.

22-23 First Taste Oregon, Salem. The former Oregon Wine, Food and Brew Festival is back at the state fairgrounds for the fourth straight year with 40 wineries, education and a wine competition. Call 866-904-6165 or visit FirstTasteOregon.com.

23-24 Oregon Wine Industry Symposium, Portland. Enology, viticulture and business returns to the Oregon Convention Center for the fourth straight year. Go to symposium.oregonwine.org.

23 Gifts from the Earth, Seattle. The South Seattle Community College Foundation showcases its culinary arts and wine program by pairing 15 chefs with 30 Washington wineries. Call 206-934-5809 or go to southseattle.edu/foundation.

24-25 Idaho wine industry annual meeting, Boise. Enology, viticulture and business moves to the Riverside Hotel. Go to idahowines.org.

23 Wenatchee Winter Wine Gala, Wenatchee, Wash. The 13th annual fundraiser for the Wenatchee Valley Museum & Cultural Center features regional wineries and chefs. Call 509-888-6240 or go to wenatchee.gov.

February 5-6 Portland Seafood & Wine Festival. This multiple sclerosis fundraiser brings 50 wineries to the Oregon Convention Center. Go to pdxseafoodandwinefestival.com. 5-6 Enumclaw Chocolate & Wine Festival. More than 20 wineries return to the Enumclaw Expo Center for the eighth annual event. Call 360-615-5626 or go to enumclawchocolatefestival.com.

25-28 Newport Seafood & Wine Festival, Newport, Ore. The 39th annual event features more than 50 wineries. Call 800-262-7844 or go to seafoodandwine.com. 27 Oregon Chardonnay Celebration, Newberg. Formerly known as the Oregon Chardonnay Symposium, many of the state’s premier Chardonnay producers stage a public tasting at the Allison Inn & Spa. Cost is $50. Go to oregonchardonnaycelebration.org. 29 Walla Walla Mobile Wine Tour, Portland. More than 45 Walla Walla Valley wineries pour for two hours at Pure Space in support of the Classic Wine Auctions. Cost is $60. Go to wallawallawine.com.

March

6 St. Joseph’s Art & Wine, Kennewick, Wash. The 20th annual fundraiser for St. Joseph’s Parish and School features regional wines, restaurants, artists and musicians. Cost is $75. Go to stjoesartandwine.com.

5 Classic Wines Auction, Portland. This 32nd annual fundraiser for Portland-area children sells out months in advance. It features winemakers and restaurants on both sides of the Columbia. Call 503-972-0194 or go to classicwinesauction.com.

8 Walla Walla Mobile Wine Tour, Seattle. More than 45 Walla Walla Valley wineries pour for two hours at McCaw Hall. Cost is $50. Go to wallawallawine.com.

5 Greatest of the Grape, Canyonville, Ore. The oldest wine event in the Northwest celebrates its 46th anniversary and pairs Southern Oregon wineries with restaurants at Seven Feathers Casino. Cost is $75. Go to umpquavalleywineries.org.

9-11 Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers Convention, Kennewick, Wash. Growers, winemakers and vendors throughout the Northwest convene at the Three Rivers Convention Center and Toyota Center for the 19th annual meeting and trade show. Call 509-782-8234 or visit wawgg.org. 12 Secret Crush Featuring award-winning 90+ rated vintages, wine pairings with exquisite heavy appetizers and an educational tasting discussing the flavor profiles of the Yakima AVA. Yakima Country Club. 6-9pm. Call 509-965-5201 or go to www.wineyakimavalley.org 13-15 Red Wine and Chocolate, Yakima Valley, Wash. More than 50 wineries in the heart of the Northwest’s oldest grape-growing region pair their wines with chocolate. Reserve ticket is $35. Call 509-965-5201 or go to wineyakimavalley.org.

10-13 Savor Cannon Beach, Ore. Four days of wine tasting and culinary events include a Saturday walk showcasing Northwest wineries. Tickets start at $35. Go to savorcannonbeach.com. 11-13 McMinnville Wine & Food Classic, McMinnville, Ore. This 23-year-old event lands at the Evergreen Space Museum. Cost is $15. Call 503-472-4033 or go to sipclassic.org. 31-April 3 Taste Washington, Seattle. Washington’s signature wine event at the CenturyLink Field Event Center spans four days of public tasting and education. Tickets start at $80. Go to tastewashington.org.

13-15 Valentine’s Wine and Chocolate Weekend, Columbia Gorge. Wineries in Oregon and Washington along both sides of the Columbia River will offer special tasting room events. Go to columbiagorgewine.com.

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W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

C LO R E CE N TE R EVENT S

History through the vines’ event Jan. 23

Seattle Times columnist, Wine Press Northwest contributor and Great Northwest Wine editor and publisher Andy Perdue will share the history of the region’s vineyards where the oldest still producing vines in the state can be found. He will be joined by wine industry pioneers Todd Newhouse, Ron Irvine, Kent Waliser, and Mike Sauer who will share the histories of these vineyards, and their connections to the earliest days of the Washington wine industry. The event starts at 6 p.m. on Jan. 23 and includes a social hour, elegant multi-course meal, and wines from these historic vineyards. Tickets are $100 per person.

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BLIND TASTING JAN. 7 Enjoy an evening in the Clore Center Tasting Room Taste and blind taste Cabernet from six different winemakers accompanied by light appetizers. The event runs 6-8pm. Cost is $30 per person. Preregistration is required.

CASUAL CULINARY SERIES Chef Kristin Johnson of Martilla’s Kitchen will demonstrate three recipes that are seasonal, fresh, and full of Northwest flavor. A few guests might get to provide some handson help, and everyone will get to sample the finished products. Attendees get to take home recipes and learn a few new tricks for your kitchen. Food Fit for the Future Year is the theme for this month’s event scheduled for Thursday, Jan. 21, 6 p.m.-8p.m. The menu (subject to change) includes: Kale + Cherry + Nut Salad with Balsamic Vinaigrette, Winter Vegetable Soup and Rosemary Mushroom Chicken Farro The cost is $35 per person for advance purchases and $40 per person for day of purchases (plus tax). For more information go to www.theclorecenter.org or call the center at 509-786-1000. The Walter Clore Wine and Culinary Center is located at 2140 Wine Country Road, Prosser, Wash., next to Desert Wind Winery off Interstate 82 exit 82. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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MATCH MAKERS

COLUMBIA GORGE FISHING HELPS SKAMANIA LODGE HOOK YOUNG CHEF STORY BY ERIC DEGERMAN // PHOTOS BY RICHARD DUVAL

TEVENSON, Wash. — Raised in the High Sierras, Matt Hale seems happiest when a morning with Sam, his 12-year-old Lab, and his new Sage One fly rod ends with his catch of the day served on a bed of his risotto. “I’m all about work right now,” Hale said. “I dirt bike and go fishing, which is how I clear my mind, but if I want to be good at this — being a chef — I need to keep my mind on being a chef.” At this point, he’s living his dream in the outdoor paradise that is the Columbia

Gorge, where the 33-year-old is putting the finishing salt on his first year as executive chef at Skamania Lodge. “It’s been a lot busier this year than I thought we’d be,” Hale said on a sunny autumn afternoon, one of many during an unusually dry year in this historically wet saddle of the Cascades. “We’ve had lots of convention groups and lots of people here on leisure. It’s been pretty insane, but every day I wake up, come into work, look out there and see that river. It’s a beautiful place. The fishing is amazing. The farms around here are

amazing. And I love the people.” Skamania Lodge, named for the Chinook Tribe’s term for swift water, was established in 1993 within 175 acres along the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area. It’s an ideal getaway from Portland — an hour’s drive upstream just beyond Bonneville Dam — because of the serene forest, challenging tree-lined golf course, full service spa, hiking and array of regional wine, beer and food. “There is something for everybody, and we have the zip-lining, too, which is amazing,” Hale said. “You come up here and you get

Skamania Lodge at Stevenson, Washington.offers panoramic views, challenging golf, spa services and hiking

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Executive Chef Matt Hale says he’s “living a dream” cooking and fishing in the Columbia Gorge

MATCH MAKERS

Maryhill Winery $24 2011 Zinfandel, Columbia Valley 2,157 cases, 14.8% alc. GOLDENDALE, Wash. — When Spokane residents Craig and Vicki Leuthhold opened the doors to Maryhill Winery in May 2001, there were only about 125 wineries in Washington. Fifteen years later, Maryhill is among more than 800 wineries in the state, but Wine Press Northwest’s reigning Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year stands out. And early success with Zinfandel helped put the Leutholds on the map beyond the Columbia Gorge. “It was the first Zinfandel in Washington that really got any recognition,” Craig said. “We entered the 2002 Zinfandel in the West Coast Wine Competition in Sonoma, and it ended up getting best of class — beating out all the other California Zinfandels — and runner-up to best of show.” Their not-so-secret sauce all along has been Gunkel Vineyards, an estate source for Maryhill. “The Gunkel family planted that in 1993 or 1994, which was pretty early for Zinfandel,” Craig said. “Lonnie Wright was managing the vineyard then, and before us, a lot of what was coming off that site was going to Oliver Winery in Indiana.” Two other vineyards with views of the Columbia River — Alder Ridge in the Horse Heaven Hills and the Milbrandt brothers’ Clifton Hill on the Wahluke Slope — join the Gunkel fruit to form Washington’s largest production of Zinfandel. The 20-month oak program of 60% new wood — mostly French — makes for a brooding nose of black currant jam on dark toast with macerated cherries and black olive. And rather than the strawberry candy flavor often found in popular off-dry California Zins, Richard Batchelor offers a juicy and vibrant profile of Bing cherry and blueberry while maintaining the lighter tannin structure that has helped the grape receive such fanfare. He strives to bring in Zinfandel with the sugar level no more than 26 Brix. “Our nights are so much cooler, and we can have that additional hangtime without the Brix spiking and without dehydrating the grapes,” Leuthold said. “The wine becomes more balanced and has more structure because of the natural acidity. And while the alcohol tends to be in the 15-percent range, it’s not over the top.” That work in the vineyard does not come easily as the variety’s large and dense clusters are notoriously susceptible to bunch rot. Zinfandel doesn’t crack the state’s top 10 in terms of red wine production, trailing even Pinot Noir and Mourvèdre. “It’s the most cantankerous grape of any we work with for sure, and the main reason why most people don’t plant it in Washington,” Leuthold said. “I doubt there are 100 acres of it in the state.” Between this tier, known as the Classic, and the reserve program, Batchelor bottles about 4,000 cases of Zinfandel each year. A few of those cases never leave Maryhill, especially when the Leutholds fire up the grill. “I qualify everything by saying that I’m a Cab guy, but Zinfandel is my go-to wine when it comes to barbecue,” Craig said. “The smokiness of barbecue chicken, ribs or pulled pork — all of it goes well with Zinfandel.” Maryhill Winery, 9774 Lewis and Clark Highway 14, Goldendale, WA, 98620, 509-773-1976, maryhillwinery.com.

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Executive Chef Matt Hale prepares wild Columbia River Salmon in the kitchen at Skamania Lodge.

away from all that city stuff. There isn’t rush hour up here. People are driving slow and looking at all the beautiful scenery. This place is paradise, especially for people who want to do something outdoors. And this resort is built for that.” Portland industrialist/philanthropist John Gray and his Grayco Resources developed Salishan on the Oregon Coast and then Sunriver in the 1960s before working with the Forest Service to create Skamania Lodge. The resort now belongs to publicly traded Pebblebrook Hotel Trust, a group with a national portfolio that includes Kimpton properties Hotel Vintage Seattle and Hotel Vintage Portland. Pebblebrook spent a reported $2 million this past year renovating the 254 rooms and conference/event center at Skamania Lodge, which has been managed by Colorado-based Destination Hotels for a decade. West Coast resorts operated by Destination include Suncadia, Sunriver and the Resort at Squaw Creek in Lake Tahoe. “I slowly worked my way up the chain at Destination, and when this opportunity opened up almost two years ago, I tried to jump on it,” Hale said. “I didn’t get the job at that point, but I kept on it and wanted to be up here because I had fallen in love with the area while WINEPRESSNW.COM

MATCH MAKERS

Willamette Valley Lamb Rack

with Yellow Polenta and Grilled Asparagus Serves 2

Lamb

Rack of Lamb for 2 2 tablespoons stone-ground mustard 7 cloves roasted garlic 1 shallot bulb 2 stems thyme 2 stems rosemary 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar 4 ounces roasted garlic oil Salt and pepper to taste 4 ounces red wine 2 tablespoons butter

Polenta and Asparagus

1/2 cups polenta 1 cup Milk 1 cup Heavy Cream 2 ounces butter ¼ yellow onion, finely diced 3 ounces grated Parmesan cheese 6 pieces asparagus

1. You can use any lamb rack, but my favorites are Pacific Northwest lamb and Colorado lamb. The flavor is great and usually is a bit less gamey than New Zealand lamb. For this recipe, you will want about four bones per serving (most racks come in about eightbone racks.) If your rack doesn’t come frenched, then you will need to do this. Frenched racks are when you take all of the fat from the bone, leaving the rib bones clean. After you have frenched the rack, you are ready to season. 2. To make the rub for the lamb, you need to roast your garlic in the oven with the oil for about 45 minutes at about 250 degrees. When the garlic is finished, add all ingredients to a food processor and purée until most of the herbs have broken down. 3. Rub the lamb and let marinade for a couple of hours. After marinating, you must sprinkle the lamb with salt and pepper and sear the top and bottom. Place in a 450-degree oven for about 25-30 minutes. You want to cook the lamb to about a medium rare. For the sauce, you will pull the lamb out of the

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pan to let rest. Deglaze the pan with the red wine and reduce by half. Add butter. 4. For the polenta, add butter and onions to large sauce pot and brown the onions. Add polenta and toast for a couple of minutes then add milk and

cream, turn heat down and let cook until done. 5. For asparagus, just toss in a little bit of oil, salt and pepper and grill.

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MATCH MAKERS

Wild Columbia River Salmon with Risotto and wild Chanterelles Serves 2

Salmon

Chanterelle mushrooms

14 ounces wild Columbia River salmon Salt and pepper to taste 1. Clean salmon and make sure there aren’t any pin bones in the filet. If there are, remove with needle-nose pliers. 2. Split filet into two 7-ounce portions. Salt and pepper and sear on both sides. Place in 450-degree oven for about 10 minutes.

½ pound chanterelle mushrooms 1 clove garlic minced 1 tablespoon butter 3 tablespoons white wine Salt and pepper to taste 1. Make sure they are clean. The best way to clean them is with a soft bristle toothbrush. 2. Once clean, add your butter to a pan and get it very hot — almost to where it is starting to brown. Add your mushrooms, garlic and thyme. 3. Finish with wine.

Risotto ½ pound Arborio rice ¼ yellow onion, finely diced 3 cloves garlic, minced 2 bay leaves ¼ cup mascarpone cheese 32 to 48 ounces of vegetable, mushroom or chicken stock 1. Allow yourself 45 minutes, and be prepared to stir 10,000 times. 2. Make sure your stock — start with 12 ounces — is going at a light simmer in the large sauce pan. If your stock is not hot, the risotto won’t get creamy. 3. When your stock is hot, start a different pan with your butter. Melt the butter and add the finely diced onions and garlic. Cook until they are translucent. 4. Add the Arborio rice and toast until it starts to turn golden brown. 5. Add your bay leaves and start adding more stock — one small ladle at a time. As the Arborio soaks up the stock, add more stock — making sure to stir constantly with a wooden spoon. A wooden spoon is important so as to not break the kernels. 6. Once the rice is almost cooked, pull from heat and add the cheese. The rice should be cooked but still have a slight crunch to it.

••• Skamania Lodge 131 SW Skamania Lodge Way, Stevenson, WA 98648, 509-427-7700, skamania.com

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on a task force helping out in between chefs.” Hale graduated from the culinary program at Lake Tahoe Community College then fought fires for four years prior to his years with The Resort at Squaw Creek. His penchant for cooking, however, began at home in the remote ranching community of Sierra City, Calif. “My mom is a great cook, and we had a

chore list that included ‘Help Mom in the kitchen’ so I would always try to steal that job from my brother and sister,” Hale said. “Ever since then, I’ve loved cooking.” The family ranch continues to influence his culinary career. “Most of our food came off our little farm,” he said. “We’d can everything for the winter and eat fresh in the summer. We were WINEPRESSNW.COM

MATCH MAKERS

so far away from anything that my parents would shop about once a month in Reno. It’s crazy. I didn’t even have fast food until I was 16. I didn’t know what it was.” These days, Hale digs his KTM 500 2015 EXC dirt bike, but he’s also comfortable in the Pacific Ocean, where he’d dive for abalone and spearfish while cooking in Mendocino. Daily trips to the fish market only deepened his appreciation for nature’s bounty. Now, he’s surrounded by indigenous ingredients that include regional wine and beer, and Skamania Lodge partners with Pacific Northwest wineries and breweries for its Taste of the Place dinner series. Each of the four courses takes a farm-to-table approach, and Hale and the winemaker or brewmaster explain each pairing for guests. Participants have included nearby AniChe Cellars and Garnier Vineyards as well as The Eyrie Vineyards and L’Ecole No. 41. “When you are up here, why do you want a California wine?” Hale said. “You want a Washington or Oregon wine because they are great. These Pacific Northwest wines — the Zins and Pinot and Cabs — are so different compared with what I had been tasting in California. They taste a little brighter, more fresh.” For his Match Maker assignment, it’s natural for Hale to reach for salmon, chanterelle mushrooms and risotto when pairing the Garnier Vineyards 2014 Estate Chardonnay, a wine produced in Mosier, Ore., less than an hour upstream for Skamania Lodge. “I love fish, I love mushrooms, and I love risotto — and salmon goes with Chardonnay,” Hale said. “One of the big reasons I moved up here is because I’m a fly fisherman. I do a lot of Spey fishing. This is the mecca. You talk about fishing, and this is the place to be. “I caught my first chinook on a fly rod two weeks ago,” he added. “It was pretty exciting. I love to fish, and I love to eat fish, but I couldn’t keep him. He was too pretty.” A recent series of rainy days, which were less than normal in 2015, allowed Hale to forage for a handful of fresh chanterelles. His simple approach to each item on the plate didn’t dull the lemon bar, lemon curd and lemon pepper notes in the fruit-forward Garnier Chardonnay. “The wine gives the dish that nice tartness, and that’s one of the tricks with fish,” Hale WINEPRESSN W .C O M

said. “You always have to add some sort of acid. They just go together. Acid and fish. That’s why everyone puts lemon on fish.” And the risotto, made more versatile by using a vegetable stock and prepared a touch al dente, preserves the lemony approach of the Garnier Chardonnay, accents its creamy midpalate and brushes aside any alcohol. “I’ve worked in fine-dining Italian restaurants and I pride myself on making risotto the right way, so it ends up making its way onto a lot of my dishes,” Hale said. “A lot of people don’t do it right, but when you have it right, it’s amazing.” One of Hale’s other delicious discoveries since arriving from Lake Tahoe is the quality of lamb from the Willamette Valley. “With the Zin, I was going back and forth on doing a braised dish,” Hale said. “Once winter starts to hit, I start doing more braised dishes, but I love the lamb so much. I used a little bit of the Zin for the reduction on the plate so it would tie together better.” The bright acidity within the Maryhill Winery 2011 Zinfandel makes for a delicious pairing with asparagus, especially when it’s been grilled, and the wine takes on a juicy blueberry angle in between bites of the lamb. Opportunities to create culinary experiences such as these help explain why Hale enjoys the challenge of taking over the Skamania Lodge kitchen, despite his mother’s warning that the ever-present soaking rain that surrounds Cascade Locks will ultimately drive him back home — which is her desire, he said with a smile. “Tahoe is an amazing place, and I love it there, but this place is better,” Hale said, gazing through the windows of his Cascade Dining Room, where the Columbia River serves as a backdrop for lodge’s communal fire pit amid the sprawling, seemingly evergreen lawn. “It’s magical, having the Columbia and all these rivers around it. It’s close to an international airport. There’s fishing and hiking, and the dirt is soft. I love going up Dog Mountain and Wind Mountain, even though they beat me up.” ERIC DEGERMAN is president and CEO of Great Northwest Wine, a news and information website. For more information, go to greatnorthwestwine.com.

Garnier Vineyards $18 2014 Estate Chardonnay, Columbia Gorge 200 cases, 13.5% alc. MOSIER, Ore. — Many wine lovers traveling along the Oregon side of the Columbia Gorge on Interstate 84 likely are unaware they have driven through the historic Mayerdale Estate and the vines of award-winning Garnier Vineyard. Tom Garnier’s estate is a century-old farm with orchards dating to 1915, but when the federal government began to build Interstate 84 after World War II, the roadway cut a wide swath through the 350-acre orchard of pears, peaches and cherries. Garnier, president of SSI Shredding Systems in Wilsonville, bought Mayerdale Estate in 1999 and three years later began transitioning fruit trees into vineyard. Eight varieties now take up 170 acres, with customers such as A-to-Z Wineworks, Argyle, J. Christopher in its history. Anna Matzinger of Archery Summit fame arrived in 2014 to spearhead the winemaking for Garnier Vineyards, which began making wine in 2006, but a large majority of the fruit continues to be sold. Garnier’s production now stands at 2,500 cases. While the tasting room for Garnier Vineyards at Mayerdale is closed from October through mid-May, their Chardonnay is available year-round at Skamania Lodge as part of the environmentally friendly keg program. It’s also on tap in Portland at the Ringside and New Seasons. “It’s huge, and it’s a whole new dimension to our sales,” said Todd Kingston, sales manager for Garnier Vineyards. “Next, we will be including our Pinot Noir, and we’re starting to figure how much will go into bottle and how much into keg.” For the Chardonnay, Garnier’s program of 20 percent in oak has been a mainstay for several vintages. That style lends it to service with lighter fare such leafy salads spotlighting fresh pear — a natural for the nearby Hood River Valley — summertime and fall salads. Some butter sauces are OK, but heavy cream sauce can overwhelm it. “We get a lot of people from California in the tasting room, and they are looking for something other than a heavily oaked Chardonnay,” Kingston said. Next spring, those looking for fruitiness and food-friendly balance from an Oregon Chardonnay should pull off I-84 at the Mosier exit and enjoy the view of Garnier Vineyards at something other than 65 mph. Garnier Vineyards, 8467 Highway 30 West, Mosier, OR 97040, 541-487-2200, garniervineyards.com.

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COLUMN

grapes of roth BY COKE ROTH

Cabernet Franc is the Zeus (or Hera) of the grape world

ow that you have exhaustively ingested the well–put, concise and worthwhile content heretofore expressed (oh, how lawyerly), you have reached the Winepress Northwest cure for insomnia. As usual, I will try to fly below the editor’s radar as to saucy content, but when you read about our next guest, Cabernet Franc, you will agree that this often-thought less powerful opponent to other red wine counterparts is a real stud. If you look in my last edition’s infliction of literary punishment, I noted that Cabernet Sauvignon was the muscular offspring of Cabernet Franc. Well, get this: Cabernet Franc is also the Casanova (or Cleopatra) that sired (or birthed) Merlot and Carmenere. I can’t help making these references to promiscuity. Cabernet Franc is the Zeus (or Hera) of the grape world! In spite, however, of lending its genetic code to so many great grapes, Cabernet Franc is still thought of as something less powerful than some other red wine varieties. How it’s grown, more than any other grape that I know of, determines what the final outcome will be. Short cropping most often eliminates its delicacy, sometimes to its detriment, but grown in a cooler climate and allowed a normal crop level, Cabernet Franc brightly shines. Gotta tell ya….I have divided loyalties with Cabernet Franc. I love Cabernet Franc, from where it started in the right bank of the Gironde River in Bordeaux, France, and Loire, France where it was carted to and planted about the time we became a nation. From there, like most well-known varieties, Cabernet Franc took the world tour, so you will find it most places where grapes grow. I love the Cabernet Franc from France, New York, British Columbia and Croatia, along with the people and food in those great pla-

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ces. You really should stretch out and try Cabernet Franc from these areas. Go there and experience the food, people and style of Cabernet Franc that cannot be duplicated. One of the characteristic components of Cabernet Franc is its peppery, perfumy, spicy, herbal character that some folks call a flaw. It’s actually a virtue that sets it apart from other varieties. When I smell properly cropped Cabernet Franc, I smell lavender herb, sweet spices, violets and red licorice. If you whittle the crop down to a couple of tons per acre, or over-oak it, you can virtually eliminate some of this delicious and idiosyncratic character. Raspberry, red currant and bell pepper are frequent descriptors, so it is little wonder that it is ready for a party with food or otherwise. Isn’t that I don’t enjoy Cabernet Franc in a richer and less classic style. It’s just that I don't think that the consuming public should be prejudiced by a stylistically different wine. It's the reason why I enjoyed the more robust Maryhill and Basel, and the more classic herbal-style presented in the Barrister and Alexandria Nicole that you read about in this edition from the Platinum competition. Let’s talk about this strong/weak thing. Is a sprinter that blisters 100 meters stronger than a marathon runner? Strengths can be measured in numerous ways. Finesse is a strength that some wines never achieve, however, Cabernet Franc, is one that can. Complexity is another component of strength that you can count on with Cabernet Franc. It's the difference between weightlifting and yoga or football and dance. Hey, you ‘wake? So often we have a tendency to pick the powerful wine to drink only to be disappointed when that's all we taste with dinner. I find myself often torn between the type of wines I like to drink without food and those with. There's nothing like an overpoweringly rich wine to excite the senses. And we sometimes

are convinced that stronger is better. It isn't that you can't have a good time with a sturdy Cabernet Franc; go ahead, dance with an NFL lineman. Actually, I love rich cheese or a cigar with a muscle-bound Cabernet Franc. I just find it more enjoyable to eat with Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers (for those younger than 60, Google them). Cabernet Franc is tough beyond having apparent reproductive proclivity and endurance. It’s more winter hardy than most grapes, so our friends in growing areas where a polar episode can put you out of business, are provided some assurances of fruit. It ripens earlier than its baby gorilla, Cabernet Sauvignon, so extended hang time can beef up its color and mouth feel if that is the goal. Did I say beef ? Yes, Cabernet Franc goes very well with beef, in particular Bourguignon (I think that’s French for stew), and good old BBQ. It also goes with complex chicken dishes like Coq au Vin (crockpot chicken here in America) and most any critter you cook with savory herbs like oregano and thyme. Its acidity is the key to making food harmony for me. But then again, what the heck do I know? Pork Steak with butter-sautéed Fuji apples and onions are so doggone good with Cabernet Franc, but that meal is good with any wine. Frankly, I am not really picky when it comes to Cabernet Franc and food….it is the universal red wine antidote to food pairings. I will let you get back to your nap now. My subjective love for Cabernet Franc is for borrow. Just find a chum, grab a BLT, open a bottle of Cabernet Franc and drink it in moderation….frequently. is an attorney who lives in Richland, Wash. He is an original member of Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panle. Learn more about him at www.cokerothlaw.com.

COKE ROTH

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