The Alchemist • Spring/Summer 2021

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SPRING/SUMMER 2021

PATIO SEASON

SPICED SIPPERS

THE EDUCATOR

SYNTH SPIRITS

Hot hangouts, cool cocktails

How to make a ginger bug

Catching up with Kevin Brownlee

Whisky in a week? Maybe one day

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SUMMER OF SPRITZ Aperol is the bright, bittersweet taste of the season

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he vibrant orange hue of an Aperol Spritz is as cheerful as a sunny day, its refreshing flavour as uplifting as happy hour itself. The spritz combines effervescent Prosecco with bittersweet Aperol, an aperitif that is low in alcohol (only 11% ABV), but high in flavour. A subtler version of its cousin Campari, Aperol’s flavour derives from gentian, rhubarb, cinchona and other botanicals that whet the appetite and quench the thirst. In Italy, where Aperol originated a century ago, “happy hour” is known as “aperitivo,” the lively and joyful gathering of friends after work and before dinner. And the quintessential aperitivo cocktail is the Aperol Spritz. It suits today’s taste for complex, herbal flavours, yet is easy to make and versatile enough to enjoy at brunch, a picnic in the park or on a patio after a long day at work. It also pairs nicely with salty pre-dinner snacks like olives, nuts and salumi. The Aperol Spritz is sophisticated yet easygoing, celebratory but casual enough to enjoy while lounging in a hammock. It balances sweet and bitter, lush and refreshing. It’s fizzy and fun. No wonder it’s the go-to cocktail of summer.

Aperol.com

@AperolSpritz

Aperol @AperolUSA

APEROL SPRITZ The 3-2-1 formula for this summer classic couldn’t be easier. 3 oz Prosecco 2 oz Aperol 1 oz soda Garnish: orange slice Fill a stemmed wine glass with ice. Pour in Prosecco followed by Aperol, then top with soda and stir to combine. Garnish with an orange slice. Serves 1.

@AperolCanada #aperolspritz


A MASTERPIECE SCULPTED BY TIME.

T H E A R T O F T I M E , S I N C E 1 7 7 9.

bowmore.com Bowmore® Scotch Whisky, 43% alc/vol. ©2020 Beam Suntory, Inc. Chicago, IL.

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08 – BAR BITES News from the world of cocktails and spirits 14 – MOMENT OF PROOF Catching up with Bacardi’s Kevin Brownlee by Michael White 23 – PATIO SUMMER How B.C.’s new patios are changing the social landscape by Gail Johnson

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Photo courtesy of Connaught Bar

Contents

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27 – DIVIDED WE SIP Bar barriers that keep us safe in style by Gail Johnson 31 – HOME BAR How to make a spicy-sweet ginger bug by Matthew Benevoli 34 – FUN IN THE SUN Playful cocktails for a retro summer by Joanne Sasvari

Joanne Sasvari photo

40 – CL ASSICS: BÉNÉDICTINE The mysterious liqueur bartenders love by Joanne Sasvari 43 – STILL LIFE Synthetic aging is revolutionizing spirits by Charlene Rooke 46 – TASTING PANEL Bartender favourite tequilas and mezcals 52-57 – DISTILLERY LISTINGS Our guide to B.C. distilleries 58 – L AST CALL Rooms we love: The Connaught Bar, London

RECIPES in this issue 06– Strawberry Youth

33– Ginger Bug Penicillin

06– Youth Cordial

35– Negroni Gelée Shots

24– The Sooke Sunrise 25– Live @ 5 25– Five Alive Cordial 26– Return of the Sumac

36– Frozen Strawberry Daiquiri 37– Margarita Popsicle 41– De La Louisiane

32– Ginger Bug

42– Poet’s Dream

32– Ginger Ale

47– Paloma

32– Ginger Beer

48– Division Bell

33– La Joya

49– Margarita


COMING SOON...

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NURTURE, HERITAGE, DIVERSITY, DOUBLE-AGING Explore the essential pillars of Plantation Rums with the Bar Classics range.

05 PLANTATIONRUM.COM For more info: Renaissance Wines and Spirits (604) 637 1759 • renwine.com


ON THE COVER

Joanne Sasvari is the editor of The Alchemist and Vitis magazines. She is a WSET-certified writereditor who covers food, drink and travel for a variety of publications, and is the author of several cookbooks, including the forthcoming Island Eats. Matthew Benevoli is an awardwinning mixologist, industry veteran and mentor. He has a passion for creating custom and unique cocktails and loves storytelling through them. Gail Johnson is a Vancouverbased writer and broadcaster, fitness instructor, mom and former longtime waiter and bartender.

Charlene Rooke is a certified Specialist of Spirits and a Moonshine University-trained craft distiller who writes for enRoute, Taste and Food & Drink.

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Michael White is a veteran magazine editor (Vancouver, FASHION and more) and author of the award-winning music biography Popkiss. He is currently writing his second book.

Photo ccourtesy of the Fairmont Pacific Rim

Contributors STRAWBERRY YOUTH This fresh, floral and delightfully fizzy patio sipper was created by Grant Sceney, creative beverage director at the Fair mont Pacific Rim. Its name refers to a line in the Jeffree Star song Beauty Killer: “I got a sweet tooth and strawberry youth.” 3 strawberries, divided 1 oz Botanist Gin 0.75 oz Youth Cordial (see recipe below) 0.75 oz lemon juice 2.5 oz Champagne or other sparkling wine Trim leaves off 2 strawberries, then muddle berries in a cocktail shaker. Add gin, cordial, lemon juice and ice. Shake hard. Pour Champagne into a Collins glass and add ice. Slowly double-strain cocktail over top. Garnish with remaining strawberry. Serves 1. YOUTH CORDIAL Note that you will need an electronic scale for this. 500 g rhubarb, fresh or frozen, cut into chunks 450 g granulated sugar 2 cups water 5 tsp chamomile tea (loose leaf or bagged) 1 tsp citric acid (or juice from one lemon) Combine rhubarb, sugar and water in a pot and put on medium heat to simmer for 12 to 15 minutes or until rhubarb is soft. Stir often. Remove from heat. Stir in the chamomile and citric acid and steep for 3 minutes. Pour through a strainer into a clean glass container such as a large Mason jar. Seal, date and refrigerate container. Cordial will last up to 4 weeks, chilled. Makes about 2 cups.


New patios have popped up all over B.C. like the ones on the lawn and parking lot at Spinnakers brewpub in Victoria. As owner Paul Hadfield says, “If we’re allowed to be creative, maybe out of this we can re-engineer some of the things we do in our urban environments to make them more fun, safer and interactive.” Photo courtesy of Spinnakers

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s we were putting this issue of The Alchemist together, everyone in British Columbia was waiting breathlessly to learn whether Dr. Bonnie Henry would lift restrictions on indoor drinking and dining in bars and restaurants. But whether she does or not, we know one thing for sure: We’re going to be spending a lot more time outside this summer. So in this issue, we celebrate the patio. Gail Johnson looks at the way expanded patios have changed our social landscape. We offer tips for making “fun in the sun” boozy slushies and popsicles. Home Bar columnist Matthew Benevoli shows us how to make a ginger bug, the base for all your thirst-quenching Moscow Mules and Dark ’N’ Stormys. And our Tasting Panel shares their favourite tequilas and mezcals, and the cocktails you should be making with them. Meanwhile, Charlene Rooke checks out the new synthetically aged spirits, Michael White checks in with Bacardi portfolio ambassador Kevin Brownlee, and we look into the origins of Bénédictine only to uncover a mystery. Plus we cover all the latest spirited news from here and around the world, and offer a complete guide to B.C.’s distilleries. Summer is short and sweet, so enjoy it while you can. The recipes in this issue will help. For even more, visit thealchemistmagazine.ca. ­—Joanne Sasvari, Editor

PUBLISHER: Gail Nugent gnugent@glaciermedia.ca EDITOR: Joanne Sasvari jsasvari@glaciermedia.ca DESIGN & PRODUCTION MANAGER: Tara Rafiq SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR: Valeria Remizova TheAlchemistMagazine.ca @TheAlchemistBC @TheAlchemistMag Published by: Glacier Media Group 303 West 5th Avenue, Vancouver, BC V5Y 1J6 778-240-4010 © The Alchemist 2021 This issue is complimentary.

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BAR BITES NEWS AND NOTES FROM BEHIND THE BAR AND AROUND THE WORLD OF COCKTAILS AND SPIRITS

MARK YOUR CALENDARS FOR VANCOUVER COCKTAIL WEEK 2022

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on’t you think it’s time to have some fun? We sure do! And that’s why we’re hard at work planning the first ever Vancouver Cocktail Week, presented by The Alchemist magazine, to be held March 6 through 9, 2022. The festivities will kick off with the Punch Brunch, a reprise of the successful event held in January 2020 at Botanist at the Fairmont Pacific Rim. It featured a gourmet five-course brunch created by chef Hector Laguna and paired with cocktails crafted by five of Vancouver’s top bartenders: Sean McGuigan, Sabrine Dhaliwal, Katie Ingram, Jeff Savage, and Amber Bruce.

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In addition to this signature event, VCW 2022 will include cinq à sept happy hours, industry seminars, special events and a glamorous gala closing party. Many of these events will be held in the city’s best bars and restaurants, showcasing Vancouver’s dynamic cocktail scene the way it was meant to be enjoyed. VCW 2022 is for the consumer who wants to drink in the city’s cocktail culture,

but it’s also designed for the hospitality professionals who make it possible. That’s why VCW’s charitable partner is the BC Hospitality Foundation, which supports workers both by offering funds to those facing financial crisis due to a medical condition and scholarships to those building their careers. Anyone interested in learning about all the exciting details to come should watch for details on our social channels and website. Industry partners who wish to propose event ideas can also find contact information at vancocktailweek.com. And look for more news in the Fall 2021 issue of The Alchemist, available in October, or online at thealchemistmagazine.ca.

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COCKTAILS TO GO WHEREVER YOU DO

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he first pandemic summer introduced the “walk-tail” and propelled the already booming RTD market to new heights. This summer promises to offer even more exciting portable pops to go. Here are three new products to toss in your backpack.

APERITIVO STYLE

He’s just launched the first two, an aperitivo spritz and a Spanish-style G&T, which are made with loads of flavour, all-natural ingredients and zero sugar. What makes these really stand out, though, is that they come in both a boozy (7% ABV) and non-alcoholic version. The alcoholic ones are available at private liquor stores, while the zero-proof cocktails will be available this summer at grocers and through drinkopus.com.

CRAFTY COCKTAILS While we can’t wait to get back to people watching from our favourite corner seat at the Hawksworth Cocktail Bar, we’re thrilled to learn we can now enjoy some of our favourite drinks at home. Hawksworth has just released a lineup of seven bottled small-batch cocktails, each batched for two to three servings. They include everything from Poco a Poco, a refreshing

Photo courtesy of Hawksworth Restaurant

blend of lime-infused Grey Goose Poire, Ginger of the Indies, orange peel honey water and soda water ($38 for two servings), to the rich, spirit-forward Han the Cherry Matten, a mix of Lot 40 Rye, Luciano Amaro, maraschino, cherry bitters, simple syrup and applewood smoke ($39 for three servings). hawksworthrestaurant.com/hawksworthcatering/cocktails-to-go.

SUMMERY SELTZER Do we really need another hard seltzer? Maybe—when it’s as tasty to drink and fun to say as Vizzy is. Like many other hard seltzers, it’s low in calories and alcohol—100 calories and 5 per cent ABV– but packs a bigger flavour punch than most. It’s made with the super fruit Acerola cherry, and comes in four flavour combos: Pineapple-Mango, Blueberry-Pomegranate, Black Cherry-Lime and Strawberry-Kiwi. Available in 12-packs of 355 mL cans ($20 to $25) and 473 mL single cans (about $3 each). vizzyhardseltzer.com Photo courtesy of Vizzy Hard Seltzer

You know that if Christos Kalaitzis is behind a cocktail, it’s not going to be your boring old vodka soda. The former Central City Brewers + Distillers mixologist is developing new products these days, and among them is the Opus line of handcrafted cocktails-in-a-can.

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BRING YOUR BEACH BUCKET We couldn’t love this more. Beetbox, the plant-based casual eatery in the West End, has introduced a new “Beet the Heat” slushie bucket that is just what we want for all our backyard gatherings this summer. The four-litre bucket is filled with a cantaloupe-apple slushie mix, ladle, four cups and garnishes ($29). Plus you can add on 375 mL mickeys of Cazadores Tequila Reposado ($20) or Bombay Sapphire gin ($17) or a 200 mL bottle of St-Germain elderflower liqueur ($17). Slushies are also available by the glass (16 oz) for $5, with mini 50 mL bottles of vodka or gin available as add-ons for $5 each. While you’re at it, consider one of Beetbox’s popular Beach Bag Combos for two, which include a choice of two sandwiches (the Burger with Cheeze or Classic or Nashville Chick-Un), two hot sides (excluding Chili Cheeze Fries) and two bottled or canned beverages (including alcoholic and zero-proof selections) or virgin slushies all packed in a custom Beetbox tote, $49 plus tax. beetboxveg.com

Photos courtesy of Beetbox

IN THE MIX When it’s hot out, nothing tastes better than a bright, citrusy Margarita. But who has the energy to squeeze all those limes? Luckily for the lazy among us, Volcán De Mi Tierra Tequila has come to the rescue with a new made-in-Canada Margarita pre-mix designed to perfectly complement the tequila’s citrus, cherry and white pepper flavours.

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The pre-mix was developed with Montrealbased Alambika, a company that sells cocktail gear, including shrubs, syrups, bitters, bottled cocktails and cocktail kits (alambika.ca). Simply mix 2 oz Volcán tequila with 1 oz of the Margarita pre-mix syrup and 1 oz water in a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake well

and strain over ice in a rocks glass. If you like, rim the glass with salt. Or not. And there you go, the perfect Margarita every time. The Margarita premix is available for a limited time at BC Liquor Stores alongside bottles of Volcan Blanco, $74.99. volcan.com


TROPICAL TRIPPING Parliament Hill is all well and good, but this summer, there’s an even better reason to visit Ottawa. (Assuming, of course, that we’re able to travel.) Floating tropical party bars. Yes, you read that right. A company called Ottawa Tiki Tours has created a fleet of floating, grass-roofed huts that will cruise the Ottawa River until October. A “first mate” bartender on board will shake up tropical drinks, and guests can order snacks, bring their own tunes and/or pay for drone footage of their 90-minute adventure.

Photos courtesy of Ottawa Tiki Tours

Of course, all of this depends on how the pandemic plays out, but if things go according to plan, Ottawa Tiki Tours will depart from Rockland and downtown Ottawa. Cost is $60 per person, and you need at least two people to make a booking. Ottawatikitours.com

SIP AND SUPPORT THE BCHF Even before the pandemic devastated bars, restaurants and the people who work in them, the BC Hospitality Foundation was there to help with scholarships and financial aid for those dealing with medical issues. Now the BCHF has partnered with Univins and Spirits on a fundraiser that will quench both thirsts and financial needs. Until July 3, Lulu Spritz and Beach Bum Lemon Coconut coolers are not only reduced in price, but $1 from the sale of each pack will go to the BCHF, to a maximum of $10,000. Six-packs of the tropical-flavoured Beach Bum will be $11.49 (regularly $12.99) and the apero-style Lulu Spritz four-packs will be $9.49 (regularly $10.99), available at BC Liquor Stores and private retailers. For more info on the foundation, visit bchospitalityfoundation.com.

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Sponsored content

Former World Class Canada winners welcome the newest champion, Edmonton bartender James Grant, to the group. From left: Shane Mulvany, Kaitlyn Stewart, Jeff Savage, James Grant, Grant Sceney and Chris Enns. Photos courtesy of World Class Canada

Edmonton’s James Grant named Bartender of the Year 2021 DIAGEO WORLD CL ASS IS BACK WITH A THRILLING COMPETITION AND BIG NEW PL ANS

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ichael Armistead thought organizing the 2019 World Class Canada finals in Whistler—where he had to transport all the bars, people and gear to the top of a mountain—was the hardest thing he’d ever do. Then along came COVID-19 and the 2021 finals in Toronto.

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“Having done it, I know we can do anything now,” says Armistead, who oversees the Diageo World Class Canada Bartending Competition as National On Premise, Reserve and Sponsorship Manager. “With all of the external factors, this was the most complex event I have ever put together.”

On March 30, Edmontonian James Grant took home the title of Canada’s Bartender of the Year 2021. Grant, who is originally from Melbourne, Australia, and works at Edmonton’s Little Hong Kong, was the first bartender from the Prairies to take home the top prize since Canada began taking part in the global competition in 2013. It was a joyful way to end a challenging year for the industry. When the global pandemic hit bars and restaurants, brands including Diageo jumped in to help through generous donations to the Bartenders Benevolent


Fund, Canadian Professional Bartenders Association and other organizations. Diageo World Class Canada also helped the community stay connected through online education opportunites and the competition itself, which saw the second highest number of entries ever. Even so, Armistead only decided to go ahead with the finals eight days before they were held, and says he couldn’t have done it without the team at Maple Leaf Sports & Entertainment. “It was live for the bartenders, but livestreamed for the public,” he says. “We carefully followed the same protocols put in place by the NHL and MLSE. The group of bartenders were so happy to be there, and they were so supportive of each other.” The event followed stringent protocols similar to those on a film set. All the participants were sequestered in a hotel. The production team was cut to half its usual size, and no more than 10 people were in any room at any time. “We were in our own bubble,” Armistead says. Finally, after a head-to-head speed-round showdown, Grant edged out his fellow topfour finalists, Daphnee Vary Deshaies from B.C. and Toronto’s Oliver Stern and Jess Mili. Grant will now compete in the global finals of the world’s biggest, most prestigious cocktail competition in Madrid, Spain, July 3 to 8. Given the ongoing uncertainty around the pandemic, the competition will be held virtually, with as many as 60 country winners streamed live from across the world as they take part in challenges sponsored by the Diageo Reserve brands.

James Grant is the first bartender from the Prairies to be named Canadian Bartender of the Year.

But even before he tackles Madrid, Grant will enjoy a quintessentially Canadian experience. “It’s the 50th anniversary of the Juno Awards this year [on June 6] and as a part of the title, James is producing a Junos cocktail for the opening reception,” Armistead says. Grant will also join Blue Rodeo’s Jim Cuddy in a presentation to MusiCounts, the Junos’ fundraising arm. Meanwhile, Armistead is looking ahead to the future. “I’ve been thinking about what we can do with World Class this year,” he says. “What I would like to do when everything is fully open is have a party in every city. Just get as many people together as possible and reconnect with everybody.”

Diageo World Class Canada diageoworldclasscanada.com   @WorldClassCanada

@WorldClassCa

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MOMENT OF PROOF

The engaging educator

As Bacardi Portfolio Ambassador, Kevin Brownlee shares his love of all things cocktail. Photos courtesy of Bacardi

‘KNOWLEDGE IS MEANT TO BE SHARED,’ SAYS BACARDI’S KEVIN BROWNLEE As told to Michael White

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Countless bartenders have arrived at their profession from unlikely origins, but Kevin Brownlee doesn’t consider his career trajectory odd. He believes he simply traded one education role for another. A former public-school teacher, he transitioned from sitting behind a classroom desk to standing behind a bar after realizing his greatest love is hosting, as well as constantly improving his knowledge of spirits and cocktails. Honing his skills in revered Vancouver dining rooms such as West, Pourhouse and AnnaLena, he subsequently won multiple awards, including first place in Grey Goose’s Pour Masters competition. Brownlee is now Portfolio Ambassador for Bacardi.


“W

est Restaurant was my first proper foray into the cocktail world, but it wasn’t my first bartending gig—that was in Winnipeg, where I grew up, when I was 19. I worked as a barback at a place called Muddy Waters, which was a smokehouse and blues bar upstairs, and the lower patio on the Assiniboine River was a reggae bar. So, it was reggae music, rum drinks and draft beer. To this day, it’s one of the most fun jobs I’ve ever had. “I worked in public education for 10 years, but I always bartended on the side. Had I made a decision to go back to university and pursue a degree and then a master’s, perhaps that might’ve been the road for me. But hospitality was such an inviting industry. Being able to host people and show them a good time is something I think comes from my family. My dad and his brothers worked in restaurants when they were young, and throwing parties was always something we did. “Knowledge is meant to be shared and, thankfully, when I got on board at West, I really started to see what it was going to take for me to become one of the best bartenders I could be. Having some incredible mentorship with David Wolowidnyk and Sabrine Dhaliwal, and getting introduced to the bartenders who were at the forefront of the industry here in Vancouver, really inspired me to better my abilities and learn as much as I could soak up. I was working at Pourhouse at the same time, and that was where I really started to come into my own, because I was able to more freely express myself. “I attribute a lot of my success to working at AnnaLena. As a team, we were all working really hard. It was challenging, because it’s a one-bartender bar—there are only eight seats on it, and the style of cocktails we were making was fairly labour intensive. It took a lot out

For his role as ambassador, Brownlee calls on his years of experience behind the bar at places like West Restaurant, Pourhouse and AnnaLena.

of me, but it was totally worth it. I was able to continue to compete in cocktail competitions, and had a bunch of success representing myself and AnnaLena. That drew a lot of media attention. “My work now as portfolio ambassador [for Bacardi in B.C.] is pretty all-encompassing, but it’s primarily focused on educating bartenders and industry professionals, and there’s some consumer education as well. It’s getting people engaged with the brands we work with— connecting to them in a personal way—so that they can take the experience of the brand back with them to their bars or their homes. B.C. has an incredible amount of talent—there are a lot of amazing bartenders in this province, and they’ve shown really well in international competition. One of the nice things about a provincial role is there’s opportunity to travel with young bartenders who are competing on a global level, so I’ve been fortunate to go to London, Paris…. I hope we’re able to do that again soon.”

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Satisfying summer sips THREE ‘EXTREMELY DRINKABLE’ COCKTAILS FROM DONNELLY GROUP’S TREVOR KALLIES by Trevor Kallies

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’ve been crafting and designing cocktails for close to 20 years. There are a handful I can look back on with a great deal of pride and, of course, a handful that I would love to forget, but those closest to me can’t seem to let go. (There was an incident with a blue whale candy circa 2003.) Regardless of the wins and losses, there is a fairly steady evolution of where it started and how it’s going.

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I realized extremely early in my role as Beverage Director for Donnelly Group that 95 per cent of the drinks I design that find their way onto the 14-plus menus around Vancouver and Toronto are not for me. Not for my enjoyment anyway. I can appreciate their flavour, their ingredients, the spirits and brands found within, of course. When I say “not for me,” I am referring to the fact that a great cocktail is designed for the enjoyment of the guests and to capture the brand of the bar, not to appease the hubris of the bartender.

Here are a handful of relatively recent cocktails that we’ve been pouring at some of the venues. They’re extremely drinkable (if I do say so myself) and not overly cost- or technique-prohibitive to be made at home.


GOOD VIBES ONLY Available at Granville Room. I basically grew up as a bartender at Granville Room so it will always hold a special place for me. Good Vibes Only is a drink that came along mid-2020. It started as a Collins-style drink and found its way into the frozen drink machine and is currently being poured in slush format. 2 oz gin (preferably Beefeater London Dry, which has lots of citrus and juniper) 0.5 oz St-Germain elderflower liqueur 0.5 oz crème de cassis (blackcurrant liqueur) 0.5 oz lemon juice Soda Fill a Collins glass with ice. Place gin, liqueurs and lemon juice in a shaker with ice, shake, then strain into the prepared glass. Top with soda. Garnish, if you like, with a mint sprig and blackberries. Serves 1. The recipe above is for a single cocktail, but this is another one that works great with everything except the soda batched all together ahead of time to speed up service. (Think ahead to the next time you’re able to have people around your place.) Crème de cassis isn’t found much on menus these days, but sure is a crowd pleaser. Grab a bottle or two of cava (Spanish sparkling wine) and you can quickly make a Kir Royale (cava + splash of cassis).

STRAY BULLETS Available at Brass Fish and The Three Brits. This one quickly became a staple at Brass Fish when we opened in February 2020. It found its way onto a few other menus and holds its own in the overall sales of cocktails in the pubs. 2 oz silver tequila (preferably Olmeca Altos 100% Agave) 0.5 oz simple syrup (1:1) 0.5 oz lemon juice 1 oz passionfruit purée Soda

Fill a Collins glass with ice. Place tequila, simple syrup and juices in a shaker with ice, shake, then strain into the prepared glass. Top with soda. Garnish, if you like, with a mint sprig. Serves 1. We batch the base for this one in large volumes and keep it chilled and ready to pour. We simply pour 4 oz (120 mL) of the batch into a tall glass, fill with ice and top with soda. The resulting cocktail is tart, fruity (but not too sweet) and effervescent. It is a great one for a hot day or to unwind after a long one.

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MODERN MARTINI Available at Brass Fish. I typically have three cocktails that I’ll order when time calls for a cocktail. A Negroni is likely what I am most known for ordering. Number 2 would be a Margarita (rocks, half-salt rim). For the past few years I have led our team in overall Martinis consumed. I can’t get enough of them. The Modern Martini is our flagship Martini on the Brass Fish menu. It’s the type of Martini that will gateway you into drinking more Martinis. You’re welcome. It’s a rare occasion when I don’t have a bottle of this in my home freezer for an after-work libation. 1.5 oz gin (preferably Beefeater for the citrus punch) 0.25 oz dry vermouth (Dolin if you have it; Martini Dry also works) 0.25 oz Tio Pepe fino sherry 0.25 oz St-Germain elderflower liqueur (another use for this wonderful liqueur) Stir over ice and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a lemon zest. This cocktail is light, crisp, aromatic and delicious. Serves 1.

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You can also make a large batch of this and store it in the freezer, ready to pour as needed. Another highlight is that its ingredients are all so versatile: • Gin + vermouth = classic Martini. • Sherry over ice = amazing lowproof sipper. • St-Germain = great modifier for spritz-style drinks and citrusforward cocktails.

Regardless of your cocktail prowess, these cocktails can be made at home with ease. Or, if you’re tired of the past year or so of being the best bartender in your own home, come see us at the Donnelly venues above and we’ll do the heavy lifting for you.


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Patrón, perfected COMPETITION IS A CELEBRATION OF TEQUIL A

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ocktail competitions are not just about the winning drinks. They are about community, creativity and exploration, discovering new flavours and learning new techniques. Only a handful worldwide truly raise the bar for the industry. Among those, there is Patrón Perfectionists, the world’s premier tequila competition. After the challenges of the past year, Patrón felt it was important to make the competition as inclusive as possible. So it has opened the competition to all bartenders across Canada, regardless of where (or if) they are working. Contestants must create their cocktails using an accessible pantry list. From those, a judging panel will choose 30 national finalists. Their recipes will be posted online at patronperfectionists.com, and from June until August, consumers of legal drinking age can vote on their favourites. In August, the top three voted contestants will join seven judge-selected contestants to form the Canadian top 10. From September to October, there will be extensive coverage until the Canadian finalist is selected.

That individual will win a trip to Hacienda Patrón in Jalisco, Mexico, to compete in the global finals in January 2022.

GET INVOLVED Participate in the competition by making and sampling the top 30 Canadian recipes at home with PATRÓN. Vote for your favourite at www.PatronPerfectionists.com

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Patrón Perfectionists patronperfectionists.com  @patrontequila

@patron


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Q& A WITH JARED SCHMIDT, REIGNING PATRÓN PERFECTIONISTS CANADIAN CHAMPION WHY DID YOU ENTER PATRÓN PERFECTIONISTS? When I entered Patrón Perfectionists in 2019, it was actually my second time entering the competition. My first time entering was in 2018, where I made it to the Alberta regional for the competition but did not advance. I wanted to enter this competition because I was inspired by other bartenders I had met who had been successful in cocktail competitions. I thought it sounded like such a cool opportunity, and I just really wanted to put myself out there. For 2019 in particular, two of my very close friends and colleagues in Kelowna also entered the competition. I think the fact that all three of us entered pushed us to really work hard to do our best in this particular competition, and then I was fortunate enough to make it all the way to the finals in the global round.

WHAT WAS YOUR INSPIRATION CRAFTING THE WINNING COCKTAIL?

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My inspiration for crafting my cocktail for the 2019 Patrón Perfectionists competition came from my home at the time: the Okanagan Valley. The criteria for the competition was to come up with a cocktail that showcased Patrón, but also represented your home country. So I decided to approach that in a hyper-local way, and showcase ingredients and flavours that came from the Okanagan Valley. I was able to draw parallels between the importance of agriculture in communities in Canada, as well as the agriculture in Los Altos, Jalisco, where the Blue Weber Agave to make Patrón tequila is grown. Between my story, and the flavours of the cocktail itself, it really struck the right chord with the judges, and that was my best performance to date in a cocktail competition.

WHAT WAS YOUR EXPERIENCE LIKE AT HACIENDA PATRÓN? The experience at the Hacienda Patrón is absolutely unparalleled. It is literally paradise on Earth. Everyone at the Hacienda is so warm and welcoming, the scenery is breathtaking, and you are treated with the highest level of hospitality at all times. Also, the experience of being in Mexico, seeing the fields of blue agave in person, and watching the entire process of how the tequila is produced—well, that gives you a sense of the value in every bottle when you get to witness that level of craftsmanship firsthand. It’s tough to describe in a few sentences just how surreal it is to be down there. Bartender Jared Schmidt is the Canadian winner of the 2019 Patrón Perfectionists competition. Originally from Alberta, he currently works behind the bar at Anh & Chi, where he’s developing a new Patrón cocktail.


THE MAKING OF THE “IT TAKES A VALLEY” COCKTAIL We've all heard the phrase “it takes a village.” And it does. It takes a community to raise one another, support one another, and grow together. For Patrón, it takes the communities of farmers growing the Blue Weber Agave, and the workers at the Hacienda to make the spirit we all know and love. For me as a bartender, the people in this industry acted as my community. They offered support, education, and guidance through my career and personal life. My cocktail for Patrón Perfectionists 2019, “It Takes a Valley,” is a tribute to the tremendous sense of community felt by myself in this industry, a tribute to the beautiful Okanagan Valley that I live in, and a tribute to the incredible communities of people that make Patrón possible. My selection of ingredients also aims to reflect that: many components of my cocktail come from the Okanagan Valley, which is one of the major agricultural regions in Canada. The apple-infused Bénédictine uses B.C. apples from the valley, and lends a honeyed apple sweetness to the apple and pumpkin flavours in the Patrón Silver. The verjus substitutes any sort of a citrus ingredient, providing the acidity for the drink while also being more environmentally sustainable. Finally, the dry apple cider provides crisp apple notes and a delicate effervescence, while the simple syrup adds balance, and the grapefruit peel provides a bright citrus fruit nose. It takes more than a village for this drink to come together; it takes a valley in Canada and valleys in Mexico to produce the components that this drink is made from. And I think that marriage of two regions is simply perfect.

IT TAKES A VALLEY Jared Schmidt’s Patrón Perfectionists competitionwinning cocktail is inspired by the Okanagan Valley. 1.5 oz Patrón Silver 0.5 oz B.C. apple-infused Bénédictine (see note) 0.25 oz 1:1 simple syrup 1 oz B.C. organic white verjus 0.75 oz dry B.C. apple cider Garnish: grapefruit peel Combine Patrón tequila, verjus, infused Bénédictine, and simple syrup in shaker. In the other side of the tin, add 5 to 6 good cubes of ice. Combine tins and shake hard for 10 seconds. Double strain with the Hawthorne and mesh strainers into a chilled coupe. Top with dry cider. Cut off a thin slice of grapefruit peel, express on to the top of the drink. Trim the garnish slightly, adorn upon the top of the coupe’s rim and serve. Serves 1. Note: For the apple-infused Bénédictine: Cut and slice 2 fresh B.C. apples and put in a jar with 2 cups Bénédictine. Infuse for up to a week, then fine strain.

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Bebesita 1.5 oz Pisco El Gobernador 0.5 oz Koch Espadin Mezcal 1 oz Peach and Chili Pepper Shrub

0.5 oz Lemon 0.5 oz Lime 0.5 oz Egg White

Origami Social photo

Add all ingredients to a shaker tin. Dry shake quickly, then add ice and shake for 10 seconds. Fine strain into a coupe and garnish with Angostura bitters.

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Organic ready-todrink cocktails now available in B.C. Drink mindfully this summer with Little Buddha Cocktail’s Organic Natural Peach Tea and Organic Grilled Pineapple & Rosemary flavours.

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Certified Organic. Zero Sugar. Keto-Friendly. Under 90 Calories. Crafted with Premium Organic Vodka. littlebuddhacc.com @littlebuddhacocktailco

Created in Ontario with organic, health forward ingredients by friends and founders Kimberley Taylor and Anne Marie Kypreos.


PATIO SEASON

From pop-up to permanent

Day or night, it’s all fun and games at The Keefer Yard, the patio created from an empty lot next door. Photo courtesy of The Keefer Bar

HOW THE PANDEMIC’S TEMPORARY SPACES MAY CHANGE OUR STREETSCAPES FOREVER by Gail Johnson

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hen restaurants and bars were given the green light last year to open temporary patios in response to the pandemic’s toll, the team at The Keefer Bar didn’t want people sipping cool cocktails on alley benches. In went a mini-putt course, fire tables on custom wooden decks, booths, a disco ball and artistdesigned graffiti on the walls. The Keefer Yard was born.

“It feels like you’ve walked out of normal city life and stepped through the doors of Narnia, only it’s an outdoor cocktail bar,” says The Keefer Bar’s media-relations rep, Chantelle Benzies. “I describe it as a daydream. “Every day we are adapting in ways to make the Yard as memorable of an experience as possible, while also keeping it as safe as

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The B-Side patio next to Say Mercy! was inspired by Venice Beach surf culture. Katie Cross Photography photo

possible,” she says. “It feels really nice to be able to offer an exciting experience to the community at a point when many of us need it the most.”

IF WE CAN MAKE A REALLY INTERESTING, WELCOMING, COMFORTABLE PL ACE TO ADD TO THE STREETSCAPE, THEREIN LIES A REALLY COOL OPPORTUNIT Y. Since June 2020, more than 400 temporary patio permits have been approved in the City of Vancouver alone. Expanded outdoor dining areas have become a lifeline for restaurants and bars as the pandemic drags on. Taking the long view, should these spaces become permanent, they have the potential to do more than simply provide pandemic-friendly places for people to eat and drink. They can beautify streetscapes, boost livability and build community.

Miki Ellis photo

THE SOOKE SUNRISE T his loose play on a Tequila Sunrise was created by Stephen W hiteside of Dachi, who says, “T he akvavit brings a bright, herbaceous note to this fr uity, sweet classic.”

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1.5 oz Sheringham Distillery Akvavit 1 oz freshly squeezed orange juice 2 tsp maraschino syrup 2 tsp lemon juice 2 tsp simple syrup Garnish: thinly sliced orange wheel Put all ingredients (except garnish) into a shaker, shake with ice, then strain into a tall glass filled with ice, preferably a Kodama “Clear Ice” Spear. Garnish with orange wheel. Serves 1.

Paul Hadfield, an architect by training who owns Spinnakers Gastro Brewpub & Guesthouses in Victoria, acted quickly to build an inviting space after seeing people come by for takeout post-lockdown last spring. Rather than take their food home, many would sit on the curbs in the parking lot to eat; they were just happy to be out and enjoying a restaurant meal. So Spinnakers got approval to expand its parking-lot seating. The team drilled holes in wine barrels to stick umbrellas in and placed stools around them. They installed gazebos with metal roofs, providing shade on sunny days and shelter on rainy ones. Hadfield is hoping they’ll be able to set up picnic tables on an unused adjacent grassy area and offer lawn games as well as the pub’s spectacular harbour views. “There are lots of opportunities for people to stick together in their group, but still get out and do that socializing thing—it is so necessary, so needed,” Hadfield says. “It’s a difficult and challenging time for a lot of people, and all of this goes back to the pub being the


public house and fulfilling that role in the community.” While some temporary patios are simply enclosures built of bollards and two-by-fours in blocked-off traffic lanes, others are destinations unto themselves. Inspired by Venice Beach surf culture, B-Side is the outdoor complement to Say Mercy! Pink picnic tables, a pastel-striped railing, multicoloured benches, twinkly lights and a bike rack give it a happy, laid-back vibe. Burdock & Co’s patio is an urban oasis full of fragrant plantings like artemisia, fennel, verbena, fuki (a Japanese edible) and myoga (a type of ginger), with artist Johhnie Christmas’s brilliantly bright mural as a backdrop. Fairmont Pacific Rim’s Patio Pop-up is back in the plaza this summer, with grass seating areas inspired by Japanese rice paddies along with lounge seating, picnic tables, live plants and outdoor barbecue. (Look for rotating gin cocktails and a fun selection of rosé.) Hadfield sees such spaces as a means to enhance the urban experience. “If we can make a really interesting, welcoming, comfortable place to add to the streetscape,

Mark Yammine photo

LIVE @ 5 Recipe by Pourhouse Bar Manager Adam Domet. A re-interpretation of that summer classic, the Margarita, with the licorice-y hint of absinthe. 2 oz Altos Blanco Tequila 0.5 oz Pierre Ferrand Dry Curaçao 1 tsp St. George absinthe 2 tsp lime juice 0.5 oz Five Alive Cordial (see below) Combine all ingredients in a mixing glass, add ice and stir until well chilled. Strain into a well-chilled cocktail glass. Serves 1.

FIVE ALIVE CORDIAL Note that you will need an electronic scale for this recipe. 75 g orange zest (bitter white pith removed) 75 g lime zest 5 oz orange juice 2.5 oz lime juice 50 g sugar 5 g salt 2 cinnamon sticks

The hidden patio at Burdock & Co is bright with colourful flowers and striking murals. Photo courtesy of Burdock & Co

Combine all ingredients in a small pot and stir over low heat for 20 minutes. Let cool, then strain into a clean jar or bottle. Label date and refrigerate. Cordial will last 5 days. Makes a little less than 1 cup.

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therein lies a really cool opportunity,” Hadfield says. “It would be more like European roads, where it becomes natural to want to sit outside and watch the streetscape go by. When we have streetscapes where restaurants and bars are open after stores are closed, it becomes much more alive. If we’re allowed to be creative, maybe out of this we can re-engineer some of the things we do in our urban environments to make them more fun, safer and interactive.” Patios can add a sense of vibrancy as well as normalcy, particularly when so much about city life has been taken away from us due to COVID-19, notes Meg Holden, professor in the urban studies program at SFU. Photo courtesy of The Chickadee Room

RETURN OF THE SUMAC Recipe by Chickadee Room bar manager Sabrine Dhaliwal. T his ne w addition to the menu is a rich and savour y cocktail flavoured with sumac, a tang y, citr usy spice popular in Middle Easter n cuisine. 1.5 oz Sumac-infused blanco tequila (see note) 0.75 oz amontillado sherry 0.5 oz Cynar 2 dashes Bittered Sling Lem-Marrakech bitters Garnish: lemon peel

“I like to remind people of the Paris arcades of the 1800s—some of which still exist—the first urban public spaces designed and offered to urbanites for just lingering, loitering and enjoying,” Holden says. “This was the birth of café culture, urbanism as a way of life, and profoundly liberating for people of modest means to be able to experience the full diversity of the city. It was a brilliant idea then and remains critically important to keeping the fabric of our cities woven together, even during difficult times.”

Combine all ingredients into a mixing glass, add ice and stir for 10 seconds until well chilled. Pour cocktail over ice in a rocks glass. Squeeze the peel to express lemon oils over top cocktail, and discard. Serves 1. 26

Note: Combine in a litre-sized Mason jar 1 (750 mL) bottle of blanco tequila with 1 Tbsp sumac. Infuse for 24 hours, shaking periodically. Strain through a coffee filter, bottle and use as needed.

Fairmont Pacific Rim’s Patio Pop-up is a relaxing oasis downtown. Christian Jones photo


PATIO SEASON

DIVIDED BY DESIGN Stylish partitions go beyond Plexiglas

Stylish dividers add character while keeping guests safe at, from left: Chickadee Room, Pourhouse and The Heatley.

P

lexiglas is so 2020.

With dividers now the norm in restaurants and bars, more places are getting creative with their pandemic shields. As long as partitions are “washable, rigid and impermeable" and measure at least 1.2 metres from the tabletop, pretty much anything goes. The Heatley’s Michael Brennan tracked down vintage windows to better suit the interior of the cozy Strathcona pub. “I was standing in line at Home Depot with $1,000 worth of Plexiglas and it just hit me: I can’t put this stuff up; it’s hideous,” he says. Instead, Brennan sourced rustic panes from Dragonfly Antiques in Ladner, his mother-inlaw’s property on Salt Spring Island, and from a collector friend who happened to have some handy from a Langley farm. Some, he framed; he used others to construct a garden arbour over a booth. The dividers at the Chickadee Room had to be functional and safe, but co-owners Justin Tindall and Bryan Satterford didn’t want them to be austere or boring. Once they had procured the Plexi, the two went thrift shopping, turning up

old doors and window panes. Then they got out the spray paint. “This was the fun part,” Tisdall says. A framed glass door in neon pink divides individual tables, while a window pane painted Juke green and neon pink, along with floral hand “fans,” is in place on the communal high-top. To separate the takeout area from the dining room is a wall with glass blocks and a neon sunset decal. “Our whole concept was to give the Chickadee Room its own identity and a bit of an ’80s vibe, but modernized,” Tisdall says. Brian Tait, a Vancouver-based industrial designer, constructed the partitions at Pourhouse under the creative direction of the Kitchen Table Restaurants. (A former yacht interior millworker, Tait pivoted to make restaurant dividers at the start of the pandemic with his company, Vancouver Plastic.) He drew inspiration from the Prohibition era, aiming to create the feeling of being transported to a 1930s speakeasy, where the bartender slides open a door to pass through an outlawed cocktail to guests in their own private space at the bar. ­—by Gail Johnson

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anadians who’ve been searching for that perfect grapefruit soda for their Palomas and punches need look no further. Just in time for all our summer sips, Fever-Tree, the world’s leading maker of premium mixers, has launched Sparkling Pink Grapefruit.

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Fever-Tree’s first mixer created specifically for North American consumers, Sparkling Pink Grapefruit, is made with hand-picked Florida grapefruits. It has no artificial

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“Sparkling Pink Grapefruit was the most successful launch in the history of Fever-Tree in the U.S., and with the massive popularity of tequila and Paloma cocktails creeping north of the border, there is no doubt that Canadians will love it just as much,” says Alexis Green, marketing manager of FeverTree Canada. “It perfectly complements spirits and captures the essence of easy-tomake mixed drinks with our 1+1+1 formula— premium spirit, premium mixer and an elevated garnish.” Adds Charles Gibb, CEO, Fever-Tree North America: “The way things have shifted this year with the pandemic, we see an immense desire to craft sophisticated cocktails at home. Our customers understand that if three quarters of their drink is the mixer,

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they want to mix with the very best. And the very best it is. “At Fever-Tree, we have a deep passion for the land and go to the ends of the earth, quite literally, for the best ingredients,” says Gibb. In the case of Fever-Tree Sparkling Pink Grapefruit, the best ingredients are naturally sourced pink grapefruits from Florida. The region’s copious amounts of year-round sun, optimal precipitation and exceptional soil produce the gold standard bitter-to-sweet ratio for this citrus fruit. As with Fever-Tree tonics and gingers, Sparkling Pink Grapefruit is available this summer at fine retailers and grocers across Canada, and served at the country’s top restaurants, bars and hotels. It can also be ordered for delivery from retailers and e-retailer partners, including Loblaws and Sobeys.

PALOMA Mexico’s favourite cocktail, the refreshing Paloma, is also the easiest to make. ¼ tequila (we suggest a 100% agave, like Patrón) ¾ Fever-Tree Sparkling Pink Grapefruit Garnish: grapefruit wedge Optional: salt rim Add tequila to a highball glass with plenty of ice and top with FeverTree Sparkling Pink Grapefruit. Gently stir and garnish with a juicy pink grapefruit wedge. Serves 1.

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SPARKLING PINK SPRITZ Fever-Tree Sparkling Pink Grapefruit perfectly complements spirits and captures the essence of easy-to-make spritzes. ¼ vodka (we suggest Grey Goose) ¾ Fever-Tree Sparkling Pink Grapefruit Garnish: grapefruit wedge and rosemary sprig (optional) Add vodka to a copa de balon with plenty of ice and top with Fever-Tree Sparkling Pink Grapefruit. Gently stir and garnish with thin grapefruit slices and, if you like, a sprig of rosemary. Serves 1.

Jeff Malo photo

PINK DAME A low-alcohol spritz perfect for all-day patio sipping. ¼ Lillet Blanc ¾ Fever-Tree Sparkling Pink Grapefruit Garnish: grapefruit wedge

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Fill a large wine glass with lots of ice, add Lillet Blanc and top with Fever-Tree Sparkling Pink Grapefruit. Stir gently, garnish with a grapefruit wedge and enjoy! Serves 1.


HOME BAR

Ginger bug FIZZY AND SPICY, IT’S THE BEST BASE FOR SUMMER’S MOST REFRESHING PATIO COCKTAILS Story and photos by Matthew Benevoli

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ith the longer days and hotter weather just around the corner, let’s get a helping hand from nature. We’ll be creating something with some heat, a little bit sweet and bright as the summer: a ginger bug! A ginger bug isn’t really a bug at all, but a naturally fermented ginger mixture with some sugar, water and a little time and care. For generations, naturally fermented soft drinks have been used as health tonics and as refreshments for everyone from laymen to royalty. Traditional ginger beer and ale used to be produced with the help of a ginger bug, and contained natural medicinal properties to ease cold symptoms and nausea (I’m sure we’ve all heard someone swear by sipping ginger ale for an upset stomach.) After a few days of your ginger mix resting on your countertop, you’ll start to see little bubbles form near the top of your bug, as the naturally occurring fermentation creates carbonation. The wild yeast on the skin of the ginger root eats away at the sugar and releases a natural carbonation along with uplifting aromas of citrus followed by a spicy heat from the fibres inside the ginger root.

To make the ginger bug, you will need ginger root, sugar and filtered water, as well as Mason jars, paper coffee filters or cheesecloth, and measuring tools.

Let’s get in the kitchen and learn how to make this fun fermented wonder as well as your own classic style ginger ale, ginger beer and gingered cocktails.

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HOW TO MAKE A GINGER BUG YOU WILL NEED 1L Mason jar Paper coffee filter or cheesecloth Rubber band Cheese grater Wooden kitchen spoon. Swing-top bottle

2 to 3 pieces of unpeeled organic ginger root (organic tends to have richer amounts of natural yeast on the skins) White granulated sugar Filtered water (such as chlorine-free tap water filtered through a Brita system) METHOD

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2

1. Wash and pat dry ginger, then finely grate ¼ cup worth (including the skins) and add it to a clean Mason jar. (Note: Do not use antibacterial soaps to clean anything, including your hands, as it can kill the active natural yeast.) 2. Add ¼ cup of sugar and 3 cups (750 mL) of filtered water to the jar. Stir your ginger mix with a wooden spoon to dissolve the sugar.

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7. Keep the ginger bug going by feeding it 1 Tbsp each of grated ginger and sugar once a week. Or transfer to a swing-top bottle and store in the fridge for up to three weeks. The swingtop bottle is designed to contain carbonated beverages; you may “burp” the bottle as needed to release pressure. Just make sure to use a good quality bottle otherwise it may crack or break under the pressure.

3. Cover the jar with a coffee filter, using a rubber band to keep the filter in place. The filter allows your mix to breathe but restricts anything from getting into your ginger bug. Store on the countertop, out of direct sunlight.

MAKE YOUR OWN WHISKY GINGER OR DARK N’ STORMY WITH THE SIMPLE SODA RECIPES BELOW.

4. Every two days, add 1 Tbsp of grated ginger and 1 Tbsp of sugar to your mix, and stir gently to combine and cover.

Ginger Ale Add 1 Tbsp molasses, 2 oz fresh lemon juice and a pinch of salt to 2 cups of ginger bug.

5. After three to four days, you should see little white bubbles forming near the top as the fermentation works its magic. 6. Your fermentation will be done in six to seven days. Filter out the ginger, cover the jar and store the ginger bug in the fridge.

Ginger Beer Add 2 Tbsp molasses, 3 oz fresh lime juice and a pinch of salt to 2 cups of ginger bug. Recipes by Matthew Benevoli


L A JOYA 1.25 oz blanco tequila 0.5 oz elderflower liqueur 0.75 oz ginger bug 1 oz orange juice (preferably fresh-pressed)

0.25 oz lemon juice Garnish: lemon twist, orange slice or vibrant flower

Add all ingredients (except garnish) to a shaker tin with ice and shake for a few seconds. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish. Serves 1.

GINGER BUG PENICILLIN 1.5 oz blended scotch whisky 0.75 oz fresh lemon juice 0.75 oz ginger bug 0.5 oz honey syrup (see note)

0.25 oz peated Islay scotch Garnish: piece of candied ginger or a lemon twist

Add first four ingredients to a shaker with ice; shake for a few seconds. Fine strain over fresh ice in a rocks glass. Gently float Islay scotch over top of the cocktail. Add garnish on top. Serves 1. Note: To make honey syrup, place equal amounts of honey and water in a small saucepan and heat, stirring constantly, until honey is fully dissolved.

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PATIO SEASON

Fun in the sun PL AYFUL COCKTAILS IN RETRO FORMATS ARE JUST WHAT WE’RE CRAVING RIGHT NOW Words and photos by Joanne Sasvari

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T

his summer we plan to party like it’s, well, not pandemic times. In fact, we’re going to have some fun playing with retro cocktails in different formats, like jelly shots and boozy popsicles. I mean, who says a cocktail actually has to be liquid? Here are the nostalgic patio crushers we plan to enjoy all summer long.

JELL-O SHOTS

Not just an ill-considered hangover from your frat party days, these jiggly little cocktails can be a sophisticated makeahead addition to any social gathering. No, really. The basic process is simple: Follow the directions on the Jell-O package, but replace half the cold water with cold spirit of some sort. Alternatively, you can use unflavoured gelatin instead of Jell-O, which opens up a world of classic cocktail flavours. A French 75 shot, perhaps? Or a Negroni? To do this, you will need one packet of powdered gelatin (0.25 oz) for every cup of liquid. That liquid has to contain some sugar or starch, and it can’t be too boozy. A cup of 40% ABV spirit to 1 cup of nonalcoholic liquid is ideal.


NEGRONI GELÉE SHOT T hese look like those after-dinner gelées you get in fancy restaurants, but come with a boozy and bittersweet kick. 1 cup London Dry gin 1 cup Campari 1 cup sweet vermouth 1 cup water 4 packets (0.25-ounce each) powdered gelatin Garnish: sanding sugar, candied orange zest (optional; for recipe, visit alchemistmagazine.ca) Line a 9-inch square baking pan with plastic wrap, making it as smooth as you can and ensuring there is plenty of overhang so you can get the jelly out of the pan later. Combine gin and Campari in a mixing bowl; set aside. Combine vermouth and water in a small pot, then sprinkle the gelatin over top. Let it sit until the gelatin

softens, about 2 minutes. (This called “blooming” the gelatin.) Heat gently over medium heat, stirring often, until gelatin is completely dissolved. Do not let it come to a boil—the water should just be lightly steaming. Pour the warm liquid into the gin mixture and stir well. Carefully pour the mixture into the baking dish, then chill until set, about 4 hours. When you’re ready to serve, use the plastic wrap to gently lift the jelly out of the baking dish. Flip it onto a cutting board and cut into bite-sized pieces—you should get 36 or so. If you like, just before serving, pour sanding sugar into a shallow dish and roll the jelly cubes in it. (If you do this too far ahead, the sugar will melt.) Garnish with a piece of candied orange zest. Makes about 3 dozen.

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FROZEN STRAWBERRY-LIME DAIQUIRI

SLUSHIES Frozen cocktails were the height of cool sophistication, once upon a time. Then they became the thing we’d drink ironically when we were on tropical vacations. Now they’re cool again, and we couldn’t be happier. The nice thing about a slushy is that you just need to throw everything into a blender with ice, let ’er rip and you’ve got a nice big batch of icy delight. The thing to remember is that you need plenty of ice to make this work but (a) alcohol won’t freeze in your home freezer and (b) if you use too much plain ice, you’ll get watery drinks. 36

The trick for your Margaritas and Daiquiris is to use frozen fruit or fruit juice, making it into both ice cube and flavouring agent. To make a frosé or other wine slushy, pour wine into ice cube trays and freeze overnight. It won’t freeze solid,

Perfect for the patio. T hat is all. 1.5 cups white rum 0.75 cup fresh-squeezed lime juice (5 to 6 juicy limes) 0.25 cup simple syrup (more if you like your Daiquiri on the sweet side) 1 (600 g) package frozen strawberries 4 cups ice cubes Garnish: strawberries or lime wheels (optional) Place the rum, lime juice, simple syrup, strawberries and ice cubes into a blender and pulse until completely blended with a slushy consistency. Check sweetness and add more simple syrup if needed. Pour into rocks glasses, plastic cups or your choice of decorative glassware. Garnish and serve. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

but it will be well on its way. Alternatively, you can make a punch with tea, fruit juice and spirits, freeze that in ice cube trays, and whirr it in the blender when you’re ready to enjoy.


BOOZY POPSICLES Talk about your perfect walk-tail. We think this might be a good year for the boozy popsicle to make a comeback. Again, the challenge with this is that alcohol has a much lower freezing point than our home freezers can handle. Even a little alcohol will just get you a slab of slush.

MARGARITA POPSICLES Note that you will need popsicle moulds and, if you don’t have plastic holders, wooden popsicle sticks for this recipe. 0.5 cup sugar 1 cup water 0.75 cup fresh squeezed lime juice (5 to 6 juicy limes) 0.25 cup silver tequila 0.25 cup orange liqueur Garnish: flaky sea salt (optional)

The trick is to keep the amount of alcohol below 20% ABV, which works out to about 1.5 oz of spirit per cup of juice, tea or water. The texture will still be soft, but solid.

Heat water and sugar in a small sauce pan over medium heat until sugar is completely dissolved. Cool.

This is a great application for lowerproof cocktails like G&Ts or Dark ’n’ Stormys, as well as fruity drinks like Margaritas. Plus you can double the fun by dunking the boozy popsicles into another cocktail as a sort of flavoured ice cube.

Meanwhile, if you’re using wooden popsicle sticks, soak them in water— this will help them stay put when you insert them in the popsicles.

Summer is short. Make the most of it while you can.

Pour lime juice, tequila and orange liqueur into a large pitcher, then stir in the sugar water. Pour into popsicle moulds, leaving a bit of head space. Place in freezer.

After about an hour, check your popsicles. They should be fairly solidly slushy by now, so you can insert your popsicle sticks. Freeze for at least another 3 hours and preferably overnight. Release the popsicles by running water over the mould. If you like, sprinkle them with a little flaky sea salt. Serve immediately. Makes 8 to 12 popsicles, depending on the size of your mould.

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Accolades for Ampersand

THE COWICHAN VALLEY DISTILLERY WOWS THE WORLD WITH ITS HANDCRAFTED SPIRITS

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ancouver Island’s Cowichan Valley may seem far away from just about everywhere, but that doesn’t mean the world isn’t taking notice. That’s thanks to an artisanal distillery named Ampersand Distilling Co., which is scooping up all sorts of awards for its carefully handcrafted spirits. Earlier this year, for instance, the World Gin Awards awarded the distillery’s flagship Ampersand Gin “Canada’s Best Classic Gin.” It’s been made since 2014 from B.C.-grown wheat, eight botanicals and fresh spring water

from the five-acre farm owned and operated by the Schacht family, Stephen and Ramona, their son Jeremy and his wife Jessica. “For our gin, we were the Best Canadian Classic Gin. We were very excited,” says Jessica Schacht, Ampersand co-founder and author of a cocktail book to be published by TouchWood Editions in fall 2022. “It was a testament to the classic flavours of our gin— juniper forward, lemon, coriander—but with a twist. The fresh lemon peel is unique and I think that’s what made it win.”


She adds: “We are very honoured to be recognized on that scale.” It’s not the first time the gin has been honoured—it was also named the province’s best gin at BC Distilled in 2016, 2017 and 2018. Meanwhile, Ampersand’s Per Se Vodka was named World’s Best Varietal Vodka at the 2020 World Vodka Awards. The wheat-based vodka is also the base for Nocino!, the green walnut liqueur named Spirit of the Year at the 2021 Canadian Artisan Spirit Competition, the first time a liqueur has won. “We used to make it just for ourselves,” Schacht says, noting that the family uses walnuts from friends’ trees to make the Italian-style liqueur. “And then we thought, ‘this is something others would be interested in.’ It’s amaro-esque. It’s mixable with gin, it’s nice in whisky cocktails and it’s a nice way to capture a bit of summer.” Unfortunately for its fans, the liqueur is only available for a couple of months each fall—and in very limited supply. “There are only so many walnuts on the tree,” Schacht explains. In the meantime, though, the Schachts have other delicious things in the works. “We are gearing up for this year’s Imperative Dry Vermouth production with Rathjen Cellars,” Schacht says. They are also working on a sweet vermouth that was delayed by Schacht’s pregnancy in 2019 and then the pandemic. “I want to say this summer, but I think I said that last

50/50 MARTINI As the author of a forthcoming book on essential cocktails, Ampersand co-founder Jessica Schacht recommends this sophisticated classic to make the most of the distillery’s award-winning spirits. 1.5 oz Ampersand Gin 1.5 oz Imperative Dry Vermouth Garnish: lemon twist Pour ingredients into an ice-filled shaker or mixing glass. Stir 50 times. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with lemon twist. Serves 1.

year. I’m just happy vermouth is having a moment.” Just like everything else from Ampersand Distilling Co.

Ampersand Distilling Company, 4077 Lanchaster Rd., Duncan, B.C. | 250-999-1109 AmpersandDistilling.com @ampdistillingco

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CLASSICS

The mysterious monk BÉNÉDICTINE’S STORIED ROLE IN COCKTAILS OLD AND NEW by Joanne Sasvari

I

f you’re the sort of person who likes their cocktails served with a side of storytelling, then Bénédictine is the drink for you. Consider it the Forrest Gump of the spirits world, popping up at just the right moments and in the just the right cocktails.

Le Grand, claimed to have discovered the recipe in an old book, recreated it, named it Bénédictine D.O.M. (Deo Optimo Maximo—“God infinitely good, infinitely great”—is the order’s motto) and marketed it, rather successfully. He even built a truly remarkable monument to Bénédictine, an ornate Gothic/

Bénédictine is an herbal liqueur produced in France, based on Cognac, sweetened with honey and flavoured with 27 herbs and spices including saffron, hyssop and lemon balm. Like Chartreuse, it was originally produced centuries ago, concocted by monks as a medicinal tonic. Or was it?

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The way the story goes, a monk named Dom Bernardo Vincelli created the original elixir at the Bénédictine Abbey of Fécamp in 1510 Normandy. The monastery was destroyed during the French Revolution (1789-’99), the recipe for its signature tonic disappearing amid the flames of social upheaval. Only one surviving monk remembered the secret formula and passed it in to the local Le Grand family. In 1863, a descendant of that family, a wealthy wine merchant named Alexandre

Bénédictine’s romantic story is part of its appeal. Photo courtesy of benedictinedom.com


Le Palais Bénédictine in Fécamp, Normandy, offers culinary and educational experiences related to the Le Grand family and the liqueur they brought to the world. Photo courtesy of benedictinedom.com

IT IS A SWEETLY SPICED AFTER-DINNER SIPPER THAT SATED THE 19TH-CENTURY FONDNESS FOR HERBAL FL AVOURS. Renaissance palace in Fécamp that houses the Le Grand family treasures. Needless to say, there is plenty of skepticism about this version of events. But whether the origin story is true or not, people loved Bénédictine. And why not? It is a sweetly spiced after-dinner

sipper that sated the 19th century fondness for herbal flavours. It also hit the market just in time for the golden age of the cocktail, and proved to be a versatile sweetener that added depth and complexity to drinks like the Bobby Burns (Scotch, sweet vermouth, Bénédictine) and Ford (Old Tom gin, dry vermouth, Bénédictine, orange bitters). It partied in New Orleans in La Louisiane (rye, sweet vermouth, Bénédictine, absinthe, Peychaud’s bitters) and the Vieux Carré (rye, Cognac, sweet

DE L A LOUISIANE T he original La Louisiane cocktail dates back to the late 19th centur y in New Orleans, where it featured equal amounts of r ye, ver mouth and Bénédictine. T his contemporar y version, which is far less sweet, is adapted from The PDT Cocktail Book by Jim Meehan (2011). 2 oz rye whisky 0.75 oz Bénédictine 0.75 oz sweet vermouth

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3 dashes absinthe 3 dashes Peychaud’s bitters Garnish: 3 brandied cherries

Place all ingredients (except garnish) in a mixing glass. Add ice and stir until chilled. Strain into a chilled coupe or cocktail glass. Garnish with three brandied cherries. Serves 1.

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IT APPEALS TO A SOPHISTICATED PAL ATE, A CURIOUS PAL ATE, A PAL ATE THAT CRAVES COMPLEXIT Y. vermouth, Bénédictine, Peychaud’s bitters, Angostura). It travelled to the Far East, one of the few ingredients to remain consistent in the ever-evolving Singapore Sling, a fizzy, citrusy punch invented at the Raffles Long Bar. It wowed the swells at New York’s 21 Club, simply and boozily mixed with brandy to create the B&B (sold as a bottled product since the 1930s). A couple of decades later, it even featured in our own Vancouver cocktail (gin, sweet vermouth, Bénédictine, orange bitters). Given its facility for appearing (or disappearing) at just the right moment, it should be no surprise that “Benny” has seen a resurgence in recent years along with the rediscovery of long-lost classic drinks and the creation of new ones, too.

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Still, Bénédictine will never be a massproduced, mass-consumed product. It appeals to a sophisticated palate, a curious palate, a palate that craves complexity. You’re not going to see stacks of it at the liquor store—indeed, you’ll be lucky even to find a single bottle. But nothing can replace its unique flavour, which is why it will continue to flavour our drinks, no matter what the next cocktail fashion will be. Dom Bernardo would be proud. If he ever existed, of course.

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POET’S DREAM W hen this cocktail appeared in the 1935 Old Waldorf Astoria Bar Book, it was an equal-parts cocktail and, like La Louisiane, has been made stronger and less sweet over time. Some versions are almost Martini dr y; this one retains enough liqueur to highlight its sweet spice. 1 oz gin 1 oz dry vermouth 0.5 oz. Bénédictine 2 dashes orange bitters Garnish: lemon twist Combine all ingredients (except garnish) in a mixing glass and stir with ice. Strain into a chilled coupe or Nick and Nora glass. Garnish with a lemon twist. Serves 1.


STILL LIFE

A whisky time machine WHISKY IN JUST TWO WEEKS? GET A TASTE OF THE “SYNTHETICALLY AGED SPIRITS” WORLD by Charlene Rooke

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To make his synthetically aged whisky, distiller Steve Watts uses staves from Okanagan wine barrels. Photos courtesy of Mainland Whisky


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t’s amber in the glass, with aromas of toasted bread, fresh-cut wood, apple and pear. It’s flavours of butterscotch with clove and pepper spice. I’d blind-taste it as a young but promising Canadian whisky from a craft distillery, somewhere on its three-year journey to the glass. “It’s two weeks old,” says Steve Watts, distiller and founder of South Surrey’s Mainland Whisky, of his Time Machine Hungarian Oak bottling. One of the craft renegades experimenting with accelerated maturation and “synthetic” aged whisky, the Texas-trained distiller says, “There are so many people who are traditionalists in this industry—I don’t need to be a traditionalist.” While his Time Machine spirits can’t be labeled “Canadian whisky,” Watts says, “I see this as a product not to replace barrel-aged whisky, but as something totally different.” (He eventually plans to release traditional wood-matured whiskies, too.)

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Watts invented a contraption using heat, light, sound and pressure to replicate the colour, aroma, flavour and mouthfeel of traditionally barrel-aged whisky. In the process, he avoids the costs of barrel storage and maintenance, evaporation (known as the Angel’s Share, and as high as 10 per cent in parts of B.C.) and the cash-flow jam of the three-year maturation requirement in Canada.

I SEE THIS AS A PRODUCT NOT TO REPL ACE BARREL-AGED WHISKY, BUT AS SOMETHING TOTALLY DIFFERENT.

This contraption invented by Steve Watts accelerates the aging of whisky.

The process goes something like this: Mainland mashes, ferments and distills a new-make spirit from predominantly corn and some barley. “I think the mashing process is the most important part of whisky making,” says Watts, showing his respect for traditional distillery processes. Then the timeline turns Tenet. He purchases Okanagan wine barrels and rechars them, then puts cut-up barrel stave pieces into a carboy of new-make spirit. The carboy goes into his machine, where it’s exposed to subsonic frequencies and a reflective coating amplifies certain UV frequencies. It’s transferred to a sort of pressure cooker, and then rests—but not for long. The entire process takes less than two weeks. “The light by itself did something, but when we mixed it up with sound it gave us a result that’s much more like aging


WE’VE FOUND A SWEET SPOT WHERE THE TANNINS JUST KIND OF COME OUT OF THE WOOD. in wood,” says Watts, who did “probably hundreds” of tests before creating something he wanted to drink himself. “Just an extra hour of heat or pressure could turn it into muck, but we’ve found a sweet spot where the tannins just kind of come out of the wood.” Time Machine is currently made in 30-litre batches, while Watts is designing an efficient all-in-one machine and experimenting with wood and barrel types. You can find 375-millilitre bottles of the original Time Machine around town for about $25; currently only the distillery’s whisky club members have access to the version that was made using the same process but with dry, spicy Hungarian oak barrel staves instead of a wine cask. Whisky snobs might not buy into synthetic maturation, but Watts’ distillery visitors are “people who are interested in whisky and just want to see what’s out there, and get excited about it.”

It’s bottled at a robust 88 proof, and though “it happens to taste really good at 44 per cent [alcohol by volume], there’s another reason for that,” says the former bartender and actor, his eyes sparkling mischievously above his mask. The fan of the Back to the Future Movies notes that the cinematic DeLorean time machine took off at 88 miles per hour. Watts brings a mad-scientist and homeinventor vibe to his experiments. “This is a very homegrown, grassroots process. We’re not coming at it from a scientific background or anything. But I’m really excited to see what we can do with technology.”

WHISKY BEFORE ITS TIME

Look for these brands that throw a wrench into the time machine with artificially aged spirits. Cleveland Whiskey Unconventional woods and a pressurized tank make whiskey in less than six months. Endless West (San Francisco) Wine geeks produce “molecular spirits” like Glyph whiskey. Lost Spirits (Los Angeles) Uses Targeted Hyper Esterification Aging to produce cult whiskeys. Terressentia (Charleston) Eight hours of ultrasonic energy and oxidation creates whiskeys for brands like Winchester, Southshot and Copper Pony.

Mainland Whisky’s Time Machine series is only one of a growing number of synthetically aged whiskies on the market.

Edrington The makers of prestige single malts like The Macallan and Highland Park use “compression finishing technology” to produce Relativity American Whiskey and Noble Oak bourbon.

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TASTING PANEL

Citrus and smoke

Blue Weber agave plants grow in Jalisco, Mexico. Also known as agave azul, the plant takes up to a decade to reach maturity, and contributes citrus and pepper notes to the tequila.Getty Images photo

THE ALCHEMIST TASTING PANEL DISCUSSES THEIR FAVOURITE TEQUIL A AND MEZCAL

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or years, we’ve been reading that tequila is about to become the “it” spirit. This year, it seems, it’s finally happened. Mind you, some of us have been enjoying this Mexican agavebased spirit, along with its smoky cousin mezcal, all along. Agave spirits have increasingly become luxury products savoured by connoisseurs, which may surprise those who’ve

only had a disastrous brush with cheap mixto and are still feeling the hangover. A good tequila is made from 100 per cent farmed blue agave, while mezcal can be made from any number of wild agaves. Mezcal is also typically enjoyed unaged, while tequila can be unaged (also known as plata or silver), “rested” in oak for up to a year (reposado) or aged (añejo or


extra añejo). Agave spirits are complex, fascinating and delicious, so we asked our tasting panel to share their favourite and what cocktail they’d make with it. This issue, our team comprises bartenders Sabrine Dhaliwal, Adam Domet, Robyn Gray, Jay Jones, Trevor Kallies, Jeff Savage and Kaitlyn Stewart. ¡Salud!

EACH FERMENTATION USES A DIFFERENT YEAST TO BRING OUT DIFFERENT NUANCES OF TERROIR OF THE AGAVE. heart. Pairs best with cigars, dark chocolate, friends and legends.” Cocktail: A deconstructed Old Fashioned.

SABRINE DHALIWAL: VOLCAN DE MI TIERRA BLANCO TEQUILA 40% ABV, $75 (750 ML) “The amount of attention to detail in the production of this spirit captured me from my first taste,” says Dhaliwal, the bar manager at the Chickadee Room. “It is a blend of three separate fermentations and distillations, using agave from both the highland and lowlands. Each fermentation uses a different yeast to bring out different nuances of terroir of the agave.” Cocktail: “It’s a beautiful tequila to casually sip on the patio or enjoy in a Paloma,” Dhaliwal says. ADAM DOMET: GRAN PATRÓN PIEDRA EXTRA AÑEJO 40% ABV, $676 (750 ML) “This exquisite Bordeauxfinished añejo tequila immediately takes me back to sitting around the fire at Hacienda Patrón sharing stories with bartenders from around Canada and the United States,” says Domet, the bar manager at Pourhouse. “Rich oak, vanilla and raisins on the palate, dreams and well wishes in the

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PALOMA Sabrine Dhaliwal offers her take on the easy-drinking Mexican classic. 2 oz Volcan de mi Tierra Blanco 1.5 oz grapefruit juice 0.75 oz lime juice 0.75 oz agave nectar Soda water Garnish: salted rim, grapefruit half-moon. Moisten rim of a Collins glass with lime juice and roll in salt. Set aside. In a cocktail shaker, combine all ingredients (except soda water and garnish), add ice and shake. Pour over fresh ice in the prepared glass and garnish with grapefruit half-moon. Serves 1.

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ROBYN GRAY: LOS SIETE MISTERIOS MEZCAL DOBA-YEJ 44% ABV, $64 (750 ML) This is a high-quality mezcal that is copper pot stilled yet still relatively inexpensive; it is made from the agave (maguey) plant called “espadin,” which in Zapoteca is “Doba-Yej,” thus its unique name. “These mezcal

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DIVISION BELL Robyn Gray recommends this contemporar y classic with a subtle smok y note.

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1 oz Los Siete Misterios Mezcal Doba-Yej 1 oz Aperol 1 oz maraschino liqueur 1 oz lemon juice Garnish: grapefruit zest Place all ingredients in a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake and fine strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a grapefruit zest. Serves 1.

bottlings are sourced from different mezcaleros, so there will be slight variations from batch to batch. Check your bottle for details,” says Gray, who can be found behind the bar at Homer St. Café. “Generally its character has a light smoky note, and a beautiful Angustifolia agave characteristic of pear and cucumber.” Cocktail: “I find it to be perfect for a myriad of mezcal cocktails,” Gray says, “but drinking it neat is always my first choice!” JAY JONES: JOSE CUERVO RESERVA DE LA FAMILIA EXTRA AÑEJO 40% ABV, $199 (750 ML) “Many years ago I met tequila, and was promptly knocked on my ass,” says Jones, the bar development leader for JOEY Restaurants. “For many years, I could not even hear the words ‘Jose Cuervo’ without a shudder reflex. It wasn’t until my life in bartending began that I saw opportunity to revisit tequila, albeit trepidatiously.” That said, the infamous Jose Cuervo Gold is only one product from a legendary hacienda. Jones first discovered Cuervo’s ‘Tradicional’ Reposado, something of a bar industry secret, “demonstrating pure agave character and smoothness, with just enough swagger to let you know it’s still tequila.” And then he found the super-premium Jose Cuervo Reserva de la Familia Extra Añejo. “This was a revelation, one that over 20 years later remains high on my list of favourite spirits, all-time,” Jones says. “While


HIGHL AND TEQUIL AS ARE T YPICALLY FOUND TO HAVE SLIGHTLY MORE FRUIT-FORWARD FL AVOURS THAN THEIR LOWL AND COUNTERPARTS, WHICH ARE FOUND TO BE EARTHIER the spryness of premium unaged tequila scintillates with bright and spicy purity, the rewards of its extra aged iterations are robust with lavish complexity. What makes this special is the exquisite balance woven between roguishness and elegance. Aromas of vanilla and oak make whispers of whisky and Cognac, underscored by heady agave. Truly luxurious mouthfeel coats with the decadence of brown sugar-baked pineapple, more vanilla and the deep soul of roasted agave. A medium-long finish of honey, oak and earthy agave leaves you eager for the next sip.”

“The tequila itself was a collaboration between two respected and acclaimed UK bartenders, the late Henry Besant and Dre Masso, and master distiller Jesus Hernandez,” Kallies says, noting that Vancouver bartenders might remember Masso from a World Cocktail Club class he taught here in 2007. “The Altos Plata has a nice kick of agave— you can smell that agave sweetness right on

Cocktail: “While designed as a stylish sipper. I would certainly explore the application to classic whisky- and Cognac-driven cocktails, and versions thereof,” Jones says. Those include the Sazerac, Manhattan and Old Fashioned. TREVOR KALLIES: OLMECA ALTOS PLATA 40% ABV, $44 (750 ML) When asked about his favourite tequila, the bar and beverage director at Donnelly Group and president of the CPBA didn’t have to look far: The Olmeca Altos Plata (silver or unaged) is always on his home bar shelf and found in all the Donnelly Group programs. Kallies notes that the Altos Plata is distilled at almost 7,000 feet above sea level. “Highland tequilas are typically found to have slightly more fruit-forward flavours than their lowland counterparts, which are found to be earthier,” he says.

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MARGARITA T he classic, ideal for sipping all summer long is Trevor Kallies’ sug gested cocktail. 1.5 oz Altos Silver Tequila 0.5 oz Curacao, Triple Sec or Cointreau 1 oz fresh lime juice 1 tsp simple syrup (1:1) Garnish: salted rim Rim a rocks glass halfway with salt and fill with ice. Place all the ingredients in a cocktail shaker with ice, shake well, and strain into prepared glass. Serves 1.

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the nose—along with citrus and pepper. On the palate you can taste some lime zest, roasted agave and spice with some lovely grassy note that round it out. The long finish lingers with more agave, fruit and pepper. Competitively priced and well suited for mixing in citrus and fruit-based cocktails.” Cocktail: “It is my go-to tequila for a classic Margarita,” Kallies says. “I also find myself reaching for Olmeca Altos Plata when working out new cocktails, such as the Brass Fish’s Stray Bullets (recipe found on page 17).” JEFF SAVAGE: DON JULIO 1942 40% ABV, $216.99 (750 ML) “For me, I often prefer blanco tequila, but there is something so special about this expression,” says Savage, the head bartender at Botanist Bar at the Fairmont Pacific Rim. “It’s gained a lot of notoriety with guests in the last few years, and rightly so. The first notes that come across are warm vanilla, salted caramel and something akin to bread pudding. Those give way to a complex array of spices, such as black pepper, allspice, black cardamom and star anise. The finish has that classic rich implied sweetness of agave, with a subtle saline finish.

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“It’s a celebration tequila through and through,” he adds, “and it always reminds me of doing exactly that with people I love.” Cocktail: “Of course served neat is usually the option, but it does work well in simple cocktails,” Savage says. “I love mixing two parts of this tequila to one part fino sherry,

IT’S A CELEBRATION TEQUIL A THROUGH AND THROUGH, AND IT ALWAYS REMINDS ME OF DOING EXACTLY THAT WITH PEOPLE I LOVE. half a part Bénédictine, and a small pinch of salt all stirred together and served with a lemon twist.” KAITLYN STEWART: MEZCAL UNION UNO 40% ABV, $94 (750 ML) Stewart, the consultant, educator and 2017 Diageo World Class Bartender of the Year, loves this unique blend of espadin and cirial agaves that are aged eight to14 years. “On the nose it is classically smoky with a really nice hit of citrus,” she says. “On the palate, black pepper, key lime pie and beef jerky. The finish is quite short, which makes it a really great introductory mezcal. Enjoyed neat or in citrus-forward cocktails. But what makes me really love this mezcal is the story behind it. Mezcal Union is an artisanal brand and co-op built to unite Indigenous farmers and family producers from different communities of Oaxaca.” Cocktail: Stewart recommends using this in a Charred Grapefruit Mezcal Paloma: Mezcal Union Uno, charred grapefruit juice, lime juice, agave syrup, soda, Tajin-spiced rim.


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B.C. DISTILLERY LISTINGS

DISTILLERY LEGEND

(on-site services offered)

YOUR GUIDE TO THE SPIRIT MAKERS This province’s 71 artisan distilleries are producing everything from vodka to vermouth. Discover B.C.’s best spirits with our updated guide to the producers, tasting rooms and so much more.

VANCOUVER ISLAND & GULF ISLANDS Ampersand Distilling

Tasting room

Cocktail lounge

On-site sales

Food

Tours Many distilleries are small operations. We always recommend calling before your visit to confirm opening hours and product availability.

Arbutus Distillery

DEVINE Spirits

1890 Boxwood Rd., Nanaimo 250-714-0027 ArbutusDistillery.com

Bespoke Spirits House 425 Stanford Ave., Parksville BespokeSpiritsHouse.com

ClearCut Distilling Co. The Schacht Family handcrafts spirits in the Cowichan Valley. Ampersand Gin, their flagship spirit, was declared Canada’s Best Classic Gin at the 2021 World Gin Awards. Products: Ampersand Gin, Per Se Vodka, Imperative Dry Vermouth, Nocino! 52

4077 Lanchaster Rd., Duncan 250-999-1109 AmpersandDistilling.com

— Partner Distillery —

319 Sutil Rd., Quadra Island 250-285-2257 SouthEnd.ca

Fermentorium Distilling Co. 2010 Government St., Victoria 250-380-1912 Fermentorium.ca

Having just won Artisan Distillery of the Year at the 2021 Canadian Whisky Awards, DEVINE is continuing to build on its farm-to-flask approach creating unique small batch whiskies. Products: Vin Gin, Sloe Gin, Genever Gin, Dutch Courage, Ancient Grains, Glen Saanich Single Malt Whisky, Honey Shine Silver, Honey Shine Amber, Black Bear Spiced Honey Rum, Moderna Vermouth 6181B Old West Saanich Rd., Saanichton | 250-665-6983 DeVineVineyards.ca

— Partner Distillery —


Goldstream Distillery

Island Spirits Distillery

Moon Distillery Ltd.

4A-4715 Trans-Canada Hwy., Whippletree Junction, Duncan 250-213-8476 GoldstreamDistillery.com

4605 Roburn Rd., Hornby Island 250-335-0630 IslandSpirits.ca

350 A Bay St., Victoria 250-380-0706 MoonDistillery.ca

Merridale Craft Spirits

Pacific Rim Distilling

1230 Merridale Rd., Cobble Hill 250-743-4293 MerridaleCider.ca

2-317 Forbes Rd., Ucluelet PacificRimDistilling.ca

Macaloney’s Caledonian Brewery & Distillery

Salt Spring Shine Craft Distillery Misguided Spirits Winners of numerous World Whiskies Awards, this distillery, started by Scotsman Graeme Macaloney, offers several single malts as well as world-class tours of the distillery. Products: Glenloy Single Malt Whisky, Invermallie Single Cask Series (Ex-Bourbon, Portuguese Red Wine, Port, Moscatel), Mac Na Braiche Single Malt Spirit, Peated Mac Na Braiche Single Malt Spirit, Peated Darach Braiche Single Malt Spirit, Oaken Poitín Single Malt Spirit, Searaidh Braiche Single Malt Spirit 761 Enterprise Cres., Victoria 778-401-0410 VictoriaCaledonian.com

— Partner Distillery —

194 Kitchen Rd., Salt Spring Island 250-221-0728 SaltSpringShine.com

Shelter Point Distillery 4650 Regent Rd., Campbell River 778-420-2200 ShelterPoint.ca Combining art and science, Darrell Bellaart makes gin, vodka and other “Misguided” spirits from B.C. wheat and malted barley at his smallbatch craft distillery near Coombs. Products: Brother XII Vodka, Spectral Gin 18-1343 Alberni Hwy., Parksville 250-616-8386 MisguidedSpirits.ca

— Partner Distillery —

Sheringham Distillery 252-6731 West Coast Rd., Sooke 778-528-1313 SheringhamDistillery.com

Spinnakers 308 Catherine St., Victoria 250-386-2739 Spinnakers.com

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Stillhead Distillery 105-5301 Chaster Rd., Duncan 250-748-6874 Stillhead.ca

Bruinwood Estate Distillery 2040 Porter Rd., Roberts Creek 604-886-1371 Bruinwood.com

Tofino Distillery Unit G & H, 681 Industrial Way, Tofino, 250-725-2182 TofinoCraftDistillery.com

Victoria Distillers 9891 Seaport Pl., Sidney 250-544-8217 VictoriaDistillers.com

Wayward Distillery 2931 Moray Ave, Courtenay 250-871-0424 WaywardDistillery.com

LOWER MAINLAND, FRASER VALLEY & B.C. WEST COAST 54

Anderson Distilleries 106-3011 Underhill Ave., Burnaby 604-961-0326 AndersonDistilleries.ca

Central City Brewers & Distillers 11411 Bridgeview Dr., Surrey 604-588-2337 CentralCityBrewing.com

Copper Spirit Distillery 441 Bowen Island Trunk Rd., Bowen Island 778-895-9622 CopperSpirit.ca

Crow’s Nest Distillery 117-667 Sumas Way, Abbotsford 778-251-6002 CrowsNestDistillery.com

Deep Cove Brewers & Distillers 2270 Dollarton Hwy., North Vancouver 604-770-1136 DeepCoveCraft.com

Dragon Mist Distillery 213-19138 26th Ave., Surrey 604-803-2226 DragonMistDistillery.com

Goodridge & Williams Craft Distillers 8-7167 Vantage Way, Delta 604-376-0630 GWDistilling.com

The Liberty Distillery 1494 Old Bridge St., Vancouver 604-558-1998 TheLibertyDistillery.com

Long Table Distillery 1451 Hornby St., Vancouver 604-266-0177 LongTableDistillery.com

Lucid Spirits 105B-8257 92nd St., Delta 604-349-3316 LucidSpirits.ca

Mad Laboratory Distilling 119-618 East Kent Ave., Vancouver MadLabDistilling.com


Mainland Whisky

Pemberton Distillery

Resurrection Spirits

107-3425 189th St, South Surrey MainlandWhisky.com

1954 Venture Pl., Pemberton 604-894-0222 PembertonDistillery.ca

1672 Franklin St., Vancouver 604-253-0059 ResurrectionSpirits.ca

Montis Distilling 1062 Millar Creek Rd., Whistler MontisDistilling.com

Sons of Vancouver

Roots and Wings Distillery

New Wave Distilling

Stealth Distilleries

3387 Tolmie Rd., Abbotsford 604-864-1033 @NewWaveDistilling

#3-20 Orwell St., North Vancouver 604-916-4103 StealthVodka.com

North West Distilling Co. 104-20120 Stewart Cres., Maple Ridge 604-818-6972 NorthWestDistillingCo.ca

Odd Society Spirits 1725 Powell St., Vancouver 604-559-6745 OddSocietySpirits.com

One Foot Crow 1050 Venture Way, Gibsons OneFootCrow.com

1431 Crown St., North Vancouver 778-340-5388 SonsOfVancouver.ca

Specializing in craft spirits from absinthe to whiskey to gin and to vodka. Stop by for a tasting or a cocktail flight and feel the farm fresh spirit take flight on your tastebuds. Products: Vital Vodka, Double Vice Coffee Infused Vodka, Renegade (horseradishinfused vodka), Dill Pickled Vodka, Peachy Keen Vodka, Jackknife Gin, Encore Gin, Inspired Gin, Old Dame, Rebel, Sidekick, Johnny Handsome, Old Fashioned Spirit, Apotheosis Absinthe, cocktail kits 7897 240th St., Langley 778-246-5247 RootsAndWingsDistillery.ca

— Partner Distillery —

The 101 Brewhouse & Distillery 1009 Gibsons Way, Gibsons 778-462-2011 The101.ca

The Woods Spirit Co. 1450 Rupert St., North Vancouver 778-996-7637 TheWoodsSpiritCo.com

Yaletown Distilling Company 1132 Hamilton St., Vancouver 604-669-2266 YTDistilling.com

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OKANAGAN, KOOTENAYS & INTERIOR After Dark Distillery 1201 Shuswap Ave., Sicamous 250-836-5187 AfterDarkDistillery.com

Elder Bros Farm Distillery 3121 Mission Wycliffe Rd., Cranbrook 250-581-2300 ElderBrosFarms.com

Forbidden Spirits Distilling

Fernie Distillers 531 1st Ave., Fernie FernieDistillers.com

Indigenous World Spirits 2218 Horizon Dr., Kelowna 250-769-2824 IndigenousWorldWinery.com

Alchemist Distiller

Jones Distilling

101-18006 Bentley Rd, Summerland 250-317-6454 AlchemistDistiller.ca

616 Third St. West, Revelstoke JonesDistilling.com

Bohemian Spirits

Kootenay Country Craft Distillery

417A 304 St., Kimberley BohemianSpirits.com

CrossRoads Brewing & Distillery 508 George St., Prince George 250-614-2337 CrossRoadsCraft.com

Dubh Glas Distillery

From the heavens, for the taking: Forbidden’s handcrafted, small-batch spirits are distilled from only the most divine B.C.-grown apples. Being a rebel never tasted this smooth. Products: Rebel Vodka, Forbidden Vodka, Eve’s Original Gin, Adam’s Apple Brandy, Forbidden Fire, Wallace Hill Whisky 4400 Wallace Hill Rd., Kelowna 250-764-6011 ForbiddenSpirits.ca

8486 Gallagher Lake Frontage Rd., 56 Oliver 778-439-3580 TheDubhGlasDistillery.com

7263 Gustafson Rd., Slocan 250-355-2702 KootenayCountry.ca

Legend Distilling 3005 Naramata Rd., Naramata 778-514-1010 LegendDistilling.com

Maple Leaf Spirits 948 Naramata Rd., Penticton 250-493-0180 MapleLeafSpirits.ca

— Partner Distillery —


Monashee Spirits

True North Distilleries

307 Mackenzie Ave., Revelstoke 250-463-5678 MonasheeSpirits.com

1460 Central Ave., Grand Forks 778-879-4420 TrueNorthDistilleries.com

Okanagan Crush Pad

Tumbleweed Spirits

16576 Fosbery Rd., Summerland 250-494-4445 OkanaganCrushPad.com

#7-6001 Lakeshore Dr., Osoyoos 778-437-2221 TumbleweedSpirits.com

Okanagan Spirits

Vernon Craft Distillery

5204 24th St., Vernon 267 Bernard Ave., Kelowna 250-549-3120 | 778-484-5174 OkanaganSpirits.com

Old Order Distilling Company 270 Martin St., Penticton 778-476-2210 OldOrderDistilling.ca

Red Collar Brewing & Distilling Co.

Vernon, 250-306-4455 VernonCraftDistilleries.com

Wiseacre Farm Distillery 4275 Goodison Rd., Kelowna 250-469-2203 WiseacreFarmDistillery.com

Wynndel Craft Distilleries 1331 Channel Rd., Wynndel 250-866-5226 WynndelCraftDistilleries.ca

DISTILLERIES COMING SOON VANCOUVER ISLAND & GULF ISLANDS James Bay Distillers (Victoria)

LOWER MAINLAND, FRASER VALLEY & B.C. WEST COAST

Copperpenny Distilling (North Vancouver) Tallant Distillery (Vancouver)

OKANAGAN, KOOTENAYS & INTERIOR

CrossRoads Craft (Prince George) Lost Boys Distillery (Fernie) Mount 7 Spirits Craft Distillery (Golden) Rakija Kings Distillery (Rossland) Trench Brewing & Distilling (Prince George)

355 Lansdowne St., Kamloops 778-471-0174 RedCollar.ca

Taynton Bay Distillers 1701B 6th Ave., Invermere 250-342-5271 TayntonBaySpirits.com

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Photo courtesy of The Connaught Bar

LAST CALL GREAT WORLD BARS WE LOVE: THE CONNAUGHT BAR, MAYFAIR, LONDON

O

nce we can travel and socialize again, we know just where we’ll be heading. We’re going to a bar. And not just any bar. The very best bar in the world. That’s The Connaught Bar, which was named No. 1 by The World’s 50 Best Bars last November, after spending 10 years on the list. It’s an elegant 1920s-style space on the ground floor of The Connaught Hotel in London’s posh Mayfair neighbourhood. The room is both glamourous and cosy. Although it’s a vintage space, it was redesigned by David Collins and relaunched in 2008 with swellegant nods to Cubism and Art Deco.

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But what really raises it above the rest is the creativity and effortless hospitality of the bar team led by director of mixology Agostino Perrone. He is a legend in bartending who came to London from Italy on a vacation in 2003 and never left. After working in just

about every bar that led the aughts’ cocktail revival, he joined the Connaught team for the 2008 reopening. Two years later, The Connaught Bar was named World’s Best Bar, and Perrone the International Bartender of the Year, at Tales of the Cocktail. And now, he’s conquered World’s 50 Best. When we visit, we might order the Bloody Mary, which arrives in a cloud of aromatic celery foam. Or perhaps the modernist scotch-and-sherry Magnetum the World’s 50 Best judges loved so much. Wait, who are we kidding? It’ll be the bespoke Martini, rolled in on a trolley of accoutrements—including the house-distilled gin—and prepared tableside by a white-gloved bartender. Whatever we choose, we can’t wait until we return. the-connaught.co.uk —Joanne Sasvari


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