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QUENCH MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2016 NIFTY SHAKES OF GREY × 20 GET CREATIVE. STAY INSPIRED. BE PREPARED. DIARY OF A COCKTAIL COMPETITION. BY TOD STEWART THE AIR × 24 FORGET CALIFORNIA. GAZE A LITTLE FARTHER NORTH ON THE MAP TO THE PACIFIC NORTH WEST. BY MICHAEL PINKUS LESS IS MORE × 27 THE FIGHT AGAINST OAK IN WHITE WINES. BY TIM PAWSEY
35 24
CRADLE OF THE DAIQUIRI × 30 TRAVEL TO THE HEART OF CUBA, WHERE ICE MEETS FRUIT. BY RICK VANSICKLE FORGET THE WORM × 32 EVERYTHING IS GOOD FOR MEZCAL AGAIN. BY SARAH PARNIAK THE PRESSURE OF ORGANIC × 35 IT’S NOT EASY FOR THOSE PRODUCERS WHO CHOOSE TO GO ORGANIC. BY LISA HOEKSTRA CLOSER TO HOME × 38 WE’RE SEEING A CULINARY REVIVAL IN THE HEART OF THE PRAIRIES. BY JOANNE WILL KICK IT UP! × 42 ADD SOME RED HOT TO YOUR MEALS. BY DUNCAN HOLMES SPIKE YOUR BEER × 46 THE BEER COCKTAIL RESURGENCE. BY SILVANA LAU
DEPARTMENTS GOOD NEWS, BAD NEWS × 49 AN ADORABLE BABY BOY WRECKED MY FIGURE 44 YEARS AGO. I’VE BEEN TRYING TO GET IT BACK SINCE. BY NANCY JOHNSON NOTED × 51 EXPERTLY-TASTED BUYING GUIDE FOR WINES, BEERS AND SPIRITS FROM AROUND THE WORLD.
ALMOST FORGOTTEN × 64 TWO OF TUSCANY’S MOST HISTORIC WINES ARE TOO OFTEN OVERLOOKED. BY GURVINDER BHATIA EMPEROR HAS NO WINE × 66 THERE SHOULD BE A PHONE NUMBER YOU CAN CALL, LIKE WINDBAGS ANONYMOUS. BY TONY ASPLER
MAY/JUNE 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 3
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PEOPLE ALWAYS MENTION THE BIG PLACES. LARGE URBAN CENTRES GET THE MOST PRESS, BEST RESTAURANTS AND FIRST DIBS ON EXCLUSIVES. Want to find that incredibly rare Scotch? You
won’t find it in Sudbury — sorry, I had to pick a place. It’s tough for those outlying areas. We sometimes forget that these smaller cities have the most heart. If you are from there, you understand the nu-
4 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2016
Rockwell’s response to the question of Fairtrade wine in the April issue, while interesting, was not, I felt, as in-depth as it could be. Fairtrade offers producers in developing nations a fair, guaranteed minimum return on their product (in this case, wine) that ensures high social and environmental standards unlikely to be adhered to in the cheaper wines from the same regions. When someone purchases a Fairtrade wine, they know that the extra dollar or two ensures the estate can provide fair wages, purchase sturdier machines and ensure the estate will receive the same percentage of return from each bottle sold as those from, say, France. The unfortunate problem is most fine wine enthusiasts, and I include myself in this, may not consider Fairtrade wines as “fine”. I will leave the Fairtrade wines to those more concerned with supporting developing countries. Michael Welsh, email A big thank you to Rick VanSickle for his article “Stop Freaking Out” – as a millennial, I don’t feel like I’m ruining wine. I’m still learning! It’s embarrassing to walk into a tasting and be looked at like an intruder because I’m the youngest person there. My suggestion to anyone worried about millennials: take us under your wing – I promise you, we will love learning! Ashley Robertson, email
ances that make the place great. You want to see it thrive. And — after travelling the world — you want to come back. That’s the story of Dale MacKay. Win Top Chef Canada — check. Work for some of the greatest chefs in the world — check. When choosing the spot for his new restaurant, he could have literally chosen any major urban centre in Canada. He chose to go back home to the warm city of Saskatoon (know it, been there, loved it). It’s a very Canadian thing to do. I understand the attachment to place. Being from the big city makes you cynical. But it’s not the largeness that keeps me in Montreal. It’s the small spots I hold in my mind that drive me to stay. After all, home is where the heart is. Or at least it’s where you can find La Banquise.
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CONTRIBUTORS Joanne Will has been following the journey of food, from farm to table, since she began writing for Quench in 2006. She’s also a regular contributor to The Globe and Mail and was a recent Knight-Wallace Journalism Fellow at the University of Michigan.
Treve Ring is a wine writer and editor for regional, national and international publications, as well as an international wine judge and speaker. She is based on Vancouver Island, though is most often found on a plane or in a vineyard. She writes for WineAlign, Gismondi On Wine, Meininger’s Wine Business International, SIP Northwest Magazine, Scout Magazine and others.
A self-proclaimed bookworm (and proud of it), Lisa Hoekstra has transformed her love of reading into a freelance writing career that spans an eclectic range of topics, from healthy eating to aromatherapy.
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À LA CARTE Q SCHOOL × 10 FLAT WHITES ARE ONE OF THE HOTTEST COFFEE TRENDS TO HIT NORTH AMERICA. HERE IS HOW TO MAKE ONE. GOOD FOOD BY NANCY JOHNSON × 12 A SHORT HISTORY OF OLIVES. LAZY MIXOLOGIST BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO × 13 YOU DON’T SEE A LOT OF SPICES IN COCKTAILS. THAT’S ABOUT TO CHANGE. FEED BY TOM DE LARZAC × 15 AS WE MOVE FROM ONE SEASON TO ANOTHER, IT SEEMS APPROPRIATE THAT THE FOOD WE CONSUME CHANGES AS WELL. UMAMI BY KATIA JEAN PAUL × 16 SAM CHAPPLE-SOKOL AND HIS CULINARY DIPLOMACY. MUST TRY × 18 HOMEMADE BREAD IS A BEAUTIFUL THING. ADD SOME STOUT AND MAPLE SYRUP, AND YOU HAVE SOMETHING NO ONE WILL REFUSE. BON VIVANT BY PETER ROCKWELL × 19 WHAT IS ULLAGE?
MAY/JUNE 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 9
Q SCHOOL
THE MILK
FW: Made with microfoam, milk that has a glossy or velvety texture due to small, fine bubbles. The milk is stretched (frothed, folded and swirled) with a steam wand while it is being steamed to make microfoam. L: Made with steamed milk.
THE POUR
FW: Once the milk is ready, good baristas swirl it to fold the froth into the liquid. Then they pour it straight into the espresso, holding nothing back. L: The foam is held back so that only hot milk is poured into the espresso, with a dollop of foam added at the end.
THE GLASS
FW: Served in white ceramic cups, roughly 140 ml in size. L: Served in anything from a glass to a mug.
THE LOOK
MAKE MINE A FLAT WHITE FLAT WHITES, ONE OF THE HOTTEST COFFEE TRENDS TO HIT NORTH AMERICA, HAVE BEEN STEAMING UP THE CAFÉ SCENE SINCE STARBUCKS ADDED THEM TO THEIR MENU IN EARLY 2015. It hails from Australia and
FW: An even, dusky orange swirl at the top due to the crema (caramelized coffee) combining with the milk; latte art is generally discouraged. L: Heard of latte art?
TASTE
FW: Essentially tastes like a smooth, milky espresso — the milk softens the harsh, bitter qualities of the espresso, so it’s sweeter with a velvety texture. L: More like drinking a milky brewed coffee.
New Zealand, where they’ve been enjoying flat whites since the mid-1980s. In fact, it’s their number-one coffee style of choice. Now that it has made its way to our side of the world, people are a bit confused, especially since the flat white is so similar to other coffee styles. Well, we’re here to explain what all the fuss is about.
MAKE YOUR OWN
NOT A SMALL LATTE
In a saucepan, heat milk to a simmer over medium heat (do not boil). Pull one shot of espresso in a white ceramic mug. Remove milk from heat and whisk until frothy. Fold the foam into the milk and pour over espresso. ×
Both the flat white (FW) and the latte (L) have a shot or two of espresso combined with steamed/frothed milk, but that is where the similarities end: 10 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2016
This recipe is an alternative to a steam wand because, let’s face it, not all of us have one of those.
1 cup milk 1 shot espresso
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GOOD FOOD BY NANCY JOHNSON
A short history of olives Olives are one of the earliest plants mentioned in ancient literature. Revered as sacred and immortal by the ancients, the olive tree’s origins can be traced to the Mediterranean coast of the Bronze Age. Based on olive pits and wooden fragments found in early tombs, archaeologists believe olives were cultivated at least 6,000 years ago. Its trees, which can live for thousands of years, were long considered symbols of peace, wisdom, purity and power. In Greek mythology, the goddess Athena planted an olive tree in what would later become Athens, giving the Greeks olives for nourishment, oil for lamps and wood for building their homes and boats. Branches were offered to the gods and used to crown the victors of games. Even today, the olive branch remains a symbol of peace and goodwill. Our ancestors were on target with their affinity for olives — they are superfoods, high in vitamin E and other antioxidants, and good for the heart. There are many different varieties, but my favourite is the bright green Castelvetrano, grown in western Sicily. Alas, I have no recipe for this particular olive since nothing can improve its bright, buttery flavour — my advice is to buy a little tub of Castelvetranos and enjoy. I do have a recipe that features my second-favourite — the meaty black Kalamata.
TAPENADE
Without the capers and anchovies, this would still be a lovely olivade. Experiment using various olives, both black and green, plus roasted red pepper, artichoke hearts or sundried tomatoes. Tapenade makes a delicious appetizer or stuffing for roasts.
2 3 1 1 1 1 1 1
cups pitted Kalamata olives canned anchovy fillets tbsp fresh parsley, chopped tbsp capers, rinsed, drained and patted dry tbsp fresh lemon juice tbsp extra-virgin olive oil tsp fresh thyme, chopped garlic clove, chopped Salt and pepper, to taste
Pulse all ingredients in food processor until finely chopped. Serve with sliced, toasted French baguette. MATCH: Enjoy with Pernod. × 12 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2016
× Search through our huge library of recipes on quench.me/recipes/
LAZY MIXOLOGIST BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO
THE HEAT IS ON Grab a cocktail book — any cocktail book — and look for a recipe that calls for spice. Bloody Mary? Check. Bloody Caesar? Check again. After that — unless you include ginger — spicy drinks are few and far between. Which is sort of a strange thing, given how so many foodies are practically addicted to Sriracha, not to mention the harissa, habanero, cayenne and of course, smoky chipotle flavours that dominate today’s food scene (see page 42). We add these to our eggs at breakfast, lunch-hour tacos and fried chicken dinners. Even desserts are spicy now, thanks to our recent realization that chocolate and ancho are soulmates. When it comes to drinks, though, we’re reluctant. Kate Boushel, a cocktail bartender who can be found shaking things up four nights a week at Montréal’s Le Mal Nécessaire, says this reluctance is understandable. “Not everyone is able to endure heat,” says Boushel. “And it’s difficult to gauge your patron’s tastes, so most bartenders try to err on the side of restraint.” Boushel, a serious fan of spicy food and drink, has therefore developed strategies for utilizing spice without blowing out her guests’ taste buds. For one, she almost always removes the seeds from her peppers before using them to infuse a cock-
× Visit quench.me/search-mixed/ for more drink recipes
tail base, be it a syrup, tea or juice. “When you get rid of the jalapeño’s seeds, for instance, you wind up with the fresh and peppery taste but none of the intense burn. Also, seeds transmit heat to an infusion really quickly — in a matter of minutes.” Her other advice is to develop a roster of spice pairings that can serve as go-to flavour combinations that can be tweaked to suit any spirit you happen to have on hand. She recommends jalapeño and watermelon, since the peppery, light heat of the jalapeño binds well with the fresh watermelon. Another similar combo is cool cucumber and mildly spicy poblano. Both of these flavour combinations can be used to spice up a margarita, gimlet or Collins, among others. “Probably my favourite is thyme and pink pepper,” says Boushel. “You can make a beautiful daiquiri by replacing the lime with grapefruit and sweetening it up with a little thyme and pink pepper syrup. “People shouldn’t be afraid of playing around with spice and herbs to make savoury cocktails,” she advises. “A little trial and error is worth it, since savoury drinks are so perfect for cinq à sept.” Still afraid? Wade in slowly with Boushel’s original cocktail, El Gran Seducción, designed especially for Quench.
EL GRAN SEDUCCIÓN
1 1 1/2 1/2 1
oz El Jimador tequila oz Flor de Caña 7 Year Old rum oz dry vermouth oz fresh pink grapefruit oz mango-chipotle-ginger syrup*
Shake all ingredients over ice and fine-strain into a chilled martini glass. Alternatively, pour over crushed ice in a rocks glass.
* To make syrup, blend 1 cup of chopped mango with 1 cup of
sugar and 1 cup of water. Cut up 3 slices of peeled ginger (3 to 4 oz) and 1 chipotle, and add to mango mixture. Let sit for an hour, then strain the solids out. Refrigerate syrup. × MAY/JUNE 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 13
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Eating for the season AS WE MOVE FROM ONE SEASON TO ANOTHER, IT SEEMS APPROPRIATE THAT THE FOOD WE CONSUME CHANGES AS WELL. After a long
winter of comfort foods and stews, I like to move on from these dishes to meals with fresher ingredients that can be cooked outside. As I have gotten older, I have started thinking a lot more about the type of foods that I eat: where they come from, are they balanced, are they healthy and are they organic. That doesn’t mean I don’t eat the things I once did, but it does mean that I am more conscious of generally eating better. So when super grains became popular and the health aspects came to be recognized, I decided that it was something I should incorporate into my diet. My wife supported the idea of eating healthier, although the thought of meals without traditional starches took some convincing. As we started using quinoa more often, it became a regular side. It was easy to make in a rice cooker and you could tweak the flavours. My favourite variation is to cook the quinoa in chicken stock. As we started to make it a primary ingredient in our meals, the quinoa salad was born. In addition to being a quick meal, with minimal “cooking,” it became a mainstay of our weekly meal rotation. The best part is we can add different ingredients each time we make it based on how we are feeling that week. This is great to ensure meals don’t get boring, and that you continue eating healthy.
MIDDLE EASTERN QUINOA SALAD
1 cup quinoa 1 shallot, finely diced 1 carrot, finely diced 1/2 cup cucumber, diced 1/2 cup cherry tomatoes, halved 1/4 cup dates, finely diced 1/4 cup lemon vinaigrette (1 part lemon juice, 2 parts olive oil) 2 chicken thighs, deboned Salt and pepper, to taste 2 tbsp each cumin, coriander, turmeric 2 tbsp parsley, finely chopped 1. Cook quinoa according to directions. 2. Combine quinoa, shallot, carrots, cucumber, tomatoes, dates
and lemon vinaigrette. Let this mixture sit for 30 minutes. 3. As quinoa sits, season chicken with salt and pepper. Barbecue the chicken till fully cooked. Remove from heat and chop into bite-sized pieces. 4. Combine chicken with quinoa mixture and seasonings. Quinoa salad can be served warm or cold. Add parsley. MATCH: Serve with a citrusy New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. ×
MAY/JUNE 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 15
UMAMI BY KATIA JEAN PAUL
A TOAST TO CULINARY DIPLOMACY Earlier this year, as US presidential hopefuls proved their mettle at the Iowa Caucus, across the globe a political imbroglio between French President François Hollande and Iranian leader Hassan Rouhani drew headlines of its own. Rouhani’s request that no wine be served at a presidential luncheon on his then-forthcoming European tour did not go over well with the French. While the Italians obliged his request, going so far as to cover up potentially risqué nude statues on display at an event he was to attend, Hollande opted to cancel their tête-à-tête since the French simply do not lunch sans wine. “Winegate,” as the Internet playfully dubbed the ensuing controversy, is what Sam Chapple-Sokol calls “culinary diplomacy gone awry.” “Food is a powerful, visceral and captivating way for each of us to connect,” says the culinary diplomacy scholar. “As 16 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2016
such, food is a very important component to relationships among heads of state and diplomats. The food on the table, the place settings, the wine served (or not served) is vital to create an opportunity for good working relationships, open lines of communication, and sometimes friendships.” Ironically, the French, Chapple-Sokol asserts, have engaged in culinary diplomacy or “the use of food and cuisine as tools to create cross-cul-
tural understanding in the hopes of improving interactions and cooperation” for centuries. Only in recent years, with globalization and the growing popularity of food culture, has the concept spurred conversation among academics, chefs and government officials. From official dinners at the White House to peace-building pop-up cafés in London to public diplomacy campaigns like Thailand’s “Thai Kitchen of the World,” which successfully increased the number of Thai restaurants using the country’s products worldwide, culinary diplomacy takes place at various levels; all of which Chapple-Sokol has researched and participated in to varying degree since his immersion in this burgeoning field. While pursuing his master’s degree at the Fletcher School of Law and Diploma-
cy at Tufts University in Medford, Massachusetts, the political science graduate combined his interest in diplomacy with his affinity for the culinary arts, the latter of which he had acquired as a child. “Both of my parents cook a lot at home, so I grew up helping them in the kitchen and learning from them,” recalls Chapple-Sokol. “I even did some weeklong cooking camps when I was like nine or 10 [years old] — I distinctly remember learning to make sushi, baklava and traditional French sauces.” His resulting thesis, titled “Culinary Diplomacy: Breaking Bread to Win Hearts and Minds,” draws on in-person interviews with former White House executive pastry chef William Yosses, renowned Spanish-American chef José Andrés and Paul Rockower, another leading expert on culinary diplomacy, and was later published in The Hague Journal of Diplomacy. Since then, Chapple-Sokol has helped Andrés create a course about food and society at George Washington University, led Le Club des Chefs des Chefs (the Club of Chefs of Heads of State) on a tour of the Eastern US, and worked as a pastry chef at the White House. It’s an off-kilter career path befitting a rich and multifaceted field still in its infancy, a field Chapple-Sokol also promotes through speaking engagements, culinarydiplomacy.com (his website on the subject), and most recently The Culinary Citizen, a podcast available on iTunes, which explores the nexus between gastronomy and international affairs. As a cheesemonger at San Francisco’s Mission Cheese, an artisanal cheese bar specializing in American farmhouse cheese, local wines and beers, Chapple-Sokol makes most in-house products, including desserts (think a Gouda chocolate-chip cookie), acting as an ambassador for American food all the while indulging in the pastime that started it all. “I love to cook, so I’ll always keep one hand in the mixing bowl. ×
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MAY/JUNE 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 17
MUST TRY
DRUNKEN BREAD Homemade bread is a beautiful thing. Add some stout and maple syrup, and you have something no one will refuse. You can always serve it with some fruit, if you want to feel less guilty. 1 3/4 1 1/2 1/2 6 3/4 2 1/2 1/2 1/2 5
cups all-purpose flour tsp baking soda tsp baking powder tsp salt tbsp butter, softened cup packed dark brown sugar large eggs tsp vanilla extract cup stout beer cup fat-free sour cream tbsp maple syrup, divided Baking spray with flour
18 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2016
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. Combine flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt, stirring
well with a whisk. Set aside. 3. In a separate bowl, mix beer, sour cream and 1/4 cup syrup, stirring well with a whisk. Set aside. 4. Place the butter and brown sugar in a large mixing bowl. Beat with a mixer at high speed until well blended. 5. Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the vanilla. 6. Beating at low speed, first add a bit of the flour mixture to the beaten eggs, then a bit of the beer mixture and finally a bit of the butter mixture. Alternate till everything is very well combined. 7. Scrape batter into a 9 x 5-inch metal loaf pan coated with baking spray with flour. Bake 43 minutes or until a wooden pick inserted in the center comes out with moist crumbs clinging to it. Cool 10 minutes in pan on a wire rack. Remove from pan; cool completely on wire rack. 8. Put 4 or 5 tbsp of powdered sugar in a small bowl. Add remaining 1 tbsp syrup; stir until smooth. Drizzle glaze over cooled bread; let stand until set, if desired. ×
BON VIVANT BY PETER ROCKWELL
What is ullage? When it comes to bottled wine, it’s the gap between where the juice ends and the cork or cap begins. The measurement is usually around three fingers, but it all depends on calibration of the filling machines. While the jury is still out on the longevity of screw-capped wines, I don’t know of many collectors saving them for future drinking. Wines sealed with a cork have a long history of ageability. Unfortunately, part of the deal is that the wine will slowly evaporate through their security. While this allows a wine to age to perfection, it also means damaging O2 is entering the bottle. If you keep a wine too long, the increasing percentage of air will overpower your investment. That’s why its measurement is important to anyone cellaring really old wines. Too much and the liquid may have given up the ghost, which means you own an expensive doorstop rather than an immaculate drinker.
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What is the difference between en primeur and wine futures, and why should I care about either of them?
To quote an old line from Steve Martin, “It’s like those French have a different word for everything.” While they may not translate verbatim, the terms “en primeur” (aka, in youth) and “wine futures” actually mean the same thing, that being buying fine wine way before its time. Here’s the scheme. Winemakers make their wine, pour them into barrels to age and then try and sell the young juice months before it ever sees a bottle. Essentially it’s the wine world’s version of the stock market, with buyers speculating on the “future” quality of the juice they’re investing in. The lords of France’s Bordeaux region got the futures ball rolling centuries ago. Few châteaux sell their wine directly to liquor retailers, preferring to deal with an army of négociants
× Ask your questions at bonvivant@quench.me
(a fancy name for fancy middlemen), who purchase the right to resell their output to your local wine purveyor. Come futures release time (somewhere around late winter), négociants inundate their customers with emails offering them the opportunity to get in on some of the yet-to-mature stock they’ve committed to at a price that’s typically much lower than it ever would be to buy the inventory in its finished state. Why should you care? Well, there’s that price thing I just mentioned. Though the liquid media and select buyers do get a chance to barrel-taste what is offered up through the futures process and report on their initial impressions (which gives the négociants a solid selling tool), no one really knows what kind of reception the completed wines will get. The one thing that’s for sure is that if, out of the bottle, a particular wine (or vintage for that matter) blows people’s minds you can bet your bippy that the selling price out of all those négociant warehouses will skyrocket. Of course, if the journalist’s palates were off as they thieve their way through the barrel rooms and the wines don’t hold up to the hype, you may be sitting on a few cases of lemons rather than grapes. If you’re a wealthy collector, and we are talking about very expensive wines here, buying early also gives you a much better chance of securing wines that are, for the most part, in very limited supply. While the campaign to sell top-end Bordeaux wines as futures has seen better days, other regions (like France’s Burgundy and Rhône Valley, and Portugal’s Douro) and stand alone brands, like California’s Opus One, have flourished by taking the en primeur sales route. Then again if, like me, your drinking budget is more Donald Duck than Donald Trump, talk of buying futures will be, well, just talk. × MAY/JUNE 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 19
NIFTY SHAKES
OF GREY by Tod Stewart
“Learn your product. Know your judges. Get creative. Stay inspired. Be prepared.” Kevin Brownlee, Champion, 2015 Grey Goose Pour Masters competition
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THE GREAT NORTHERN BARTENDER (TENDERUS MIXIMUS, GNB) IS A CURIOUS CREATURE. Oddly averse
to daylight, these denizens of the nocturnal underworld have traditionally been somewhat unassuming — content to lurk in the smoky shadows, “dancing” while “behind the stick.” Gladly catching a “boomerang” while shunning “drain pours,” GNBs delight in “staff meetings” and are never opposed to a “handshake.” They even have their own mysterious dialect (all “those” aforementioned words). In my years of fieldwork, I’ve found these organisms to be a rather friendly and intelligent lot, despite their sometimes extreme and intimidating predilection towards ritualistic tattoos, body piercings and — for the male of the species — facial hair. In any case, GNBs and their ilk have evolved considerably. They still duck daylight, but have no real issue with basking in limelight. Much like their culinary counterparts, some have become stars. With fame comes competitiveness. And I have witnessed this trait firsthand on several occasions in the form of the cocktail competition — the modern gladiator arena of professional booze slingers.
“Most competitions are organized by spirit brands themselves,” reveals Maryline Demandre, Communications Director for Made With Love, a cocktail competition that began seven years ago with just a handful of competitors. It is now the largest competition in Canada with an aim to grow and promote the cocktail culture. The fact that Made With Love does not revolve around any particular brand or brands makes it somewhat unique. In the case of the Grey Goose Pour Masters competition, the company in question produces the iconic, ultra-premium Grey Goose Vodka. The 2015 mix-off finale really was something to behold, notably because it featured four of Canada’s top mixing wizards. Also, it took place in Cognac (in the hamlet of Julliac le Coq, to be exact) at Le Logis, the restored 17th-century French manor house that acts as the physical and spiritual (ahem) home of Grey Goose Vodka. Not a bad locale to mix up (and knock back) some cocktails. Purchased by Grey Goose in 2012, and meticulously renovated and refurbished, the elegant Le Logis would be the residence for the four Pour Masters regional finalists as they geared up for the final mix-off. These included Kevin Brownlee from Vancouver’s AnnaLena (who would ultimately reign as grand champion); Jeff Savage of Calgary’s Proof Cocktail Bar; Juliana Wolkowski of Toronto’s answer to a Basque pinxo bar — Bar Raval — and Montreal’s Jonathan Homier (who was with Le SaintÉdouard at the time and who, after the Pour Masters competition, was taken on as a Brand Ambassador for a popular American whiskey).
Far left: Juliana Wolkowski from Toronto’s Bar Ravel Left: A sampling of bitters at the Le Logis bar
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Mostly I’ve watched GNBs tough it out in their Home and Native Land. But seeing them ply their trade on foreign shores with local, all-French ingredients was indeed a unique experience. Part of the challenge facing the competitors was to craft an original, palate-seducing, judge-dazzling cocktail using the range of Grey Goose vodkas, whatever they could find behind the Le Logis bar (a formidable collection of popular and practically never seen potables. Benedictine Single Cask, anyone?) the herbs and berries found in the Le Logis greenhouse and surrounding grounds, and other components sourced from local shops. In fact, the seasonal ingredient list included close to 40 fruits, herbs, roots and botanicals. However, before la grande finale, there was some serious eating, drinking and learning to do. Every spirit, to varying degrees, is a blend. It’s the talent of the master blender (in France, the maître de chai) to create the formula and oversee its volume production (among other things). Before becoming the mind behind Grey Goose Vodka, François Thibault worked in the cellars of H. Mounier, honing the skills that would become invaluable in the creation of luxury vodka. It’s tempting to ask, “Why vodka?” considering the Cognac region is known for (arguably) the world’s finest brandy. However, in his characteristically curious way, Thibault instead asked, “Why not?”
Born, raised and still living among Cognac’s rustic villages, undulating hills and sprawling vineyards, Thibault knew without a doubt that all the ingredients he would need for his new distilling project lay at (or under) his feet. In particular, the winter wheat from the Picardy region — also known as the breadbasket of France. Flour from this wheat makes its way into the finest breads and pastries the country makes. (It also made its way into the bread we whipped up in a fun little baking session in the Le Logis kitchen). When combined with the pristine, limestone-filtered water extracted from 150 metres below the soils of Gensacla-Pallue, this soft, nutty-flavoured grain was transformed into the mash that, in turn, would be distilled and blended under the watchful eye and exacting standards of Thibault. But before we got a firsthand taste of the Grey Goose line, Thibault took us into the Le Logis cellar for a short seminar on how wood aging affects a spirit. Wood aged vodka? Not exactly. As mentioned, Cognac, the region, and cognac, the spirit, both run through Thibault’s blood. His respect for the (traditional) spirit of the land — and the traditions that surround its production — remain strong to this day. The Ugni Blanc grape variety grown in the nine hectares of vineyard that surround Le Logis (and in vineyards all over the region) are fermented into a rather neutral, acidic white wine prior to distillation, barrel maturation and blending. To demonstrate
Maître de chai François Thibault examining the winter wheat in the fields of Picardy
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the influence of oak aging, Thibault took us through a range of cognacs: the water-white, floral/peppery/slightly earthy un-aged “new make;” the slightly more tempered five-year-old with aromas of vanilla, marmalade and spice, and more overall balance on the palate; and finally, a 10-year-old — caramel, toffee, cocoa and fruitcake on the nose — smoother, richer and more complex than the rest. So Grey Goose is making cognac? Not exactly. BUT COGNAC DOES PLAY AN IMPORTANT ROLE IN THE FORMULATION OF GREY GOOSE VX, which we tasted along
with the entire range of vodkas during the course of a seminar Thibault led. Walking us through the production process — from grain to glass — he pointed out some of the features that make his spirit unique; and uniquely French. With the exception of the Florida oranges used for Grey Goose L’Orange, all ingredients are of French origin, right down to the ink used to adorn the bottles. While many vodka producers laud the fact that their spirit has been distilled and filtered numerous times, Thibault favours but a single distillation to preserve character. Later that day, while the bar stars headed out to collect cocktail ingredients, I had a personal tour of the Grey Goose blending and bottling facility, and was shown the rigorous quality control standards — all overseen by Thibault. In fact, each Grey Goose bottle sports two distinct serial numbers. One allows for the tracing of lineage of the glass bottle itself, while a second, applied after bottling, is used to determine (in the remote chance of a flaw being detected) where in the distillation process it may have occurred.
As the sun began to slip behind the horizon, I was back at Le Logis, lounging poolside with a Grey Goose Le Fizz cocktail in hand. As the contestants made final preparations for the mix-off ahead, I was able to get more insight into how cocktail competitions unfold, and what sort of mental and physical preparation is required. “I use a mental map,” Savage explains. “I create a ‘web’ of flavours — either in my head or on paper — so I can visualize how the ingredients will work together. My rule of thumb is that all ingredients either have to complement or contrast each of the other ingredients in the drink. If I can make that work, the drink should also work. From there, it’s just a matter of building the drink and tasting for small tweaks.” For Brownlee, a cocktail needs a story. Indeed, his storytelling was one of the things that impressed the Pour Masters judges. “I often start with a story and write myself a rough outline of what the drink is about; what it means to me. This really helps me prepare a unique cocktail for competitions. I try to pair flavours with themes in my idea, and then I look to see what works with the product we’re working with. Once my parameters are defined, then I start playing around with ratios and serving methods. A lot of what we do is to bring subtle nuances to drinks that are already out there; but it’s a matter of doing things in a way that is true to our own personal style, and original in itself.” Sometimes preparation involves taking a situation that normally wouldn’t necessarily lead to clear, creative thinking and turning it around. “I was very jet-lagged and couldn’t sleep the night before the competition,” Savage recalls when later asked if he did anything special to get ready for the Big Night. “So I used that to my advantage. I went out to watch the sunrise over Cognac, and took one of the bikes out to ride amongst the grape vines. I allowed the history and spirit of Cognac to inspire me.” After a photo session in the Le Logis garden, Brownlee, Homier, Savage and Wolkowski — each with their personally selected quiver of ingredients and each armed with a unique shaking style — poured out the goods to a three-member judging panel that included Thibault. Though it was Brownlee who ultimately “flew beyond” the competitors as the ultimate master with his La Marionette de Mary, all contestants left Le Logis as winners, in a way, with unforgettable memories and lasting friendships. “It was so intimate,” Savage recalls. “I learned a lot from Kevin, Juliana and Johnathan, and we became close quickly. Grey Goose set up the conditions for us to thrive. We really enjoyed each other’s company in one of the most beautiful places I’ve been.” For Brownlee, a game of pétanque and grilled cheese sandwiches at four in the morning certainly stuck in his mind. But it was the ability to not only compete against, but also befriend, other bartenders of equal talent that had the most impact. Though Demandre points out that a win in a prestigious contest can certainly bring monetary and career-enhancing rewards, for Brownlee, it is also a personal affirmation. “For me, it’s a reassurance that with hard work and dedication comes reward. I don’t ever consider myself to be better than anyone because that’s not how I look at life. But it’s good to know that when other competitions are taking place, my fellow ’tenders are very aware of who is playing ball that day.” × MAY/JUNE 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 23
THE AIR by Michael Pinkus
There’s something in the air. Something that has been fermenting for a long time, but now there’s a palpable excitement about it; you can see it, you can smell it, you can taste it. The West Coast is coming. Now most people will think I’m talking about California (again), but not this time. This time you’ll have to set your gaze a little farther north on the map, to places like Oregon, Washington and British Columbia … and call it the Pacific North West.
Justin Neufeld with his three sons, Miles, Max and baby Jude
Now these winemaking areas might not seem new or emerging to many, but the three regions that make it up have been lying in the shadows of the larger and more popular southern west coast state for far too long. It’s their time to shine and show the world what they can do with the fermented grape. Here’s a brief look at each region and what it’s adding to the world’s wine-scape. Moving north from California there’s Oregon. Known mainly for Pinot Noir, they have found a happy medium between the fruit-forwardness of California and the Burgundian balance of acidity and earthiness, yet with a flavour all their own. The first planting of Pinot was in the late 60s and since then Oregon has exploded with winery growth — from a mere five in 1970 to 605+ today. Their key varieties are Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris, though you’ll also find Chardonnay and many of the other grapes you see in new world regions. APPELLATIONS OF NOTE: •• Willamette Valley (home to 400+ wineries) •• Dundee Hills (with its unique red volcanic soil) •• Rouge Valley (the most southerly region growing 40+ varieties). “Oregon is such a great place to make wine due to three factors: the marginality of Oregon’s climate, the state’s exceptionally interesting geologic past, and the incredible patience and comradery of the winemaking community,” says April Yap-Hennig, Director of Marketing at Hyland Estates.
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Drive further north and voilà, you’re in Washington, where winemaking history dates back a little further than Oregon’s, to the 1860s; but, due in part to lack of sufficient water and irrigation techniques in this semi-arid part of the US and Prohibition’s impact on the commercial production of wine, Washington’s industry never fully got off the ground until the 1970s. Today it is the second largest producer in the US (next to California). Washington is noted for Riesling, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot; but many say Syrah is making the biggest impact. APPELLATIONS OF NOTE: •• Columbia Valley (the largest region in the state, contains 13 sub-appellations within its boundaries) •• Walla Walla Valley (home to some of the oldest wineries) •• Yakima Valley (largest of the Columbia Valley sub-apps and even contains three of its own) •• Horse Heaven Hills (warmest sub-app with elevations from 90 - 550 meters).
•• Similkameen Valley (a growing appellations home to some
For Steve Warner, the president of Washington State Wine, “The Washington State wine industry is seeing phenomenal growth in all aspects of the business. We’re currently at more than 870 wineries and 50,000 acres of vineyard, a 40 percent increase from just six years ago … and we continue to receive high scores and acclaim from some of the world’s best-known wine critics.” Cross the border and you’re back home in British Columbia, home to the Okanagan Valley, known to Canadian wine lovers for decades, but now the rest of the world is starting to take notice of the outstanding quality that can be found in BC, which remains one of the world’s most northerly winemaking regions; and it’s not just the Okanagan anymore, new appellations are being discovered and planted. APPELLATIONS OF NOTE: •• Okanagan Valley (160km in length, first planted in 1859) •• The Golden Mile Bench (the first Okanagan sub-app, given that distinction in 2014)
FORIS 2012 PINOT NOIR, OREGON ($24.95)
15+ wineries to date). “There isn’t anything else like it in the world,” says Miles Prodan, BC Wine Institute President. I’m sure that Miles’ words are echoed by all three of these regions.
OREGON DUCK POND CELLARS 2014 PINOT GRIS, OREGON ($20) Delicate lime, pear and grapefruit pith and zest; very refreshing.
WILLAMETTE VALLEY VINEYARDS ESTATE 2013 PINOT NOIR, OREGON ($45.95) Gorgeous and flavourful with ripe red cherry and yellow plum, there’s also a delightful herbal sensation mid-palate to the finish.
Fruity and earthy with hints of tobacco, wood smoke and a long peppery finish.
LA CREMA 2013 PINOT NOIR, OREGON ($34.95) Don’t expect California here, La Crema has made Oregon Pinot Noir in the Oregon style and has not tried to make it conform to the California ideal.
ADELSHEIM 2013 PINOT GRIS, OREGON ($27.95) Yellow plum and pear with a seam that screams of minerality.
J. CHRISTOPHER LUMIERE PINOT NOIR 2011, OREGON ($44.95) Hits all those really good notes Oregon Pinot Noir is known for; supple fruit that straddles the dark, red, herbal, mineral and earthy — concentrated and delicious.
Hyland Estates owner Laurent Montalieu with winemaker, Anne Sery and Bruno Corneaux, director of winemaking and viticulture MAY/JUNE 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 25
CORNERSTONE CELLARS WHITE LABEL PINOT NOIR 2012, WILLAMETTE VALLEY, OREGON ($50) Another California producer that has found Oregon; lovely black cherry and smoky aromas that follow onto the palate with floral notes adding depth to the fresh and fruity character of the wine; real true elegance here.
HYLAND ESTATES PINOT NOIR 2013, COURY CLONE, OREGON ($38) The simplicity of this wine speaks volumes; nose delivers sour cherry while the palate is cran-raspberry and cherry with a spicy finish.
SOLENA ESTATE PINOT GRIS 2014, OREGON ($20) A touch of Gewürztraminer is added to give this wine some sweetness and add some floral depth, and it works: fresh and fruity with mineral and peach backed by good acidity.
WASHINGTON CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE 2012 INDIAN WELLS RED BLEND, WASHINGTON ($25.95) Essence of blueberry skin, plum and vanilla with some meaty and floral tones.
COLUMBIA CREST 2012 GRAND ESTATES MERLOT, WASHINGTON ($17.95) Plump, ripe blueberry, plum, chocolate along with some gentle coffee and floral.
GORDON ESTATE 2012 SYRAH, WASHINGTON ($32.95) A very pretty expression of Syrah with floral and blueberry notes, finishing with hints of chocolate and white pepper.
CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE 2012 INDIAN WELLS CABERNET SAUVIGNON, WASHINGTON ($26.95) Blueberry and vanilla lead the charge on the smooth palate with hints of chocolate-cherry on the finish.
AIRFIELD ESTATES 2012 RUNWAY CABERNET SAUVIGNON, WASHINGTON ($22.25) Aromas of cassis, black raspberry and herbal notes, while the palate mimics the nose in flavours along with mocha and loads of spice on the finish.
MILBRANDT VINEYARDS 2012 CABERNET SAUVIGNON, TRADITIONS, WASHINGTON ($24.95) Nose is the real lure here with raspberry, red liquorice and cherry; palate is silky smooth showing red berries, white pepper and anise on the finish.
NINE HATS WINES 2012 RED WINE, WASHINGTON ($40) A six-grape blend dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon along with Merlot, Syrah, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carmenère; aromas of anise, spice and hints of smoke; palate is seductive with vanilla-oak, smoky-red berries and a peppered-sweet-fruit finish. 26 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2016
Mason Spink, winemaker at the Dirty Laundry in Summerland, BC
BRITISH COLUMBIA CALLIOPE 2013 FIGURE 8 CABERNET/MERLOT, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($19.95) Well priced for a BC red: nicely layered dark fruit, herbal and spice notes with great length on the finish, but it’s the fruit that keeps this one rockin’.
DIRTY LAUNDRY 2012 KAY-SYRAH, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($26.95) Meaty, raspberry, a dose of white pepper and some violet/floral notes; quite delicate and delicious.
OSOYOOS LAROSE 2010 LE GRAND VIN, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($44.95) At five years of age, this wine is just starting to come into its own: oaky, smoky, cassis, black cherry and spice.
JACKSON-TRIGGS 2012 SUNROCK VINEYARD ILLUMINA, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($34.95) A blend of Zinfandel and Shiraz from Canada’s West Coast that has a peppery-plummy sensation, could this be BC’s next big thing? ×
LESS IS MORE by Tim Pawsey
Just a hunch, but I’m pretty convinced that what started out as a trickle of less-oaked and unoaked wines a few years back has today turned into a torrent. For any number of reasons, consumers — not to mention winemakers, viticulturists and consultants — are turning their backs on the big oaky whites and reds of yesteryear. And the implications are far reaching. “So what’s driving the change?” you might ask. In a recent Drinks Business article, Viña Maipo head winemaker Max Weinlaub mused on the move to fresher, lower alcohol, wines. “Now, I am looking for the purest expression of a variety or region. For many years, we were confused, using too much oak and I don’t know why — maybe because of the American palate? But now, even Robert Parker is changing. Everyone is looking for fresher, lower alcohol wines with less oak.” The barrel enjoys a long and glorious history that pre-dates Roman times. Although, as often they did, the Romans would have had us believe it was they who came up with the idea. However, it was more likely the Gauls who first started putting liquor of some kind into wood, which was more robust and easier to transport than pottery, even if not always palatable. And occasionally (as in when Yew was used) even poisonous. The barrel really came into its own much later, as a means to actually age wine, rather than to just transport it for centurion consumption. In the modern era, it pays to go back a few decades to get to the bottom of oak’s once seemingly unstoppable commercial popularity, specifically to the ascent of varietal wines, most notably Chardonnay. Overall, we can thank Australia for putting oak on the map (even perhaps before California), and in a good way. Those of us of a certain age can remember when Aussie Chard was all the rage, right up there with K-Cars and the Swatch. That would be right before the arrival of Chilean Merlot. (Or was that actually Carmenère?)
Imagine a whole generation of wine drinkers weaned on Wyndham’s Bin 222. Yes, it was a fact of life. The reality is that Australian Chardonnay parlayed its way onto the public palate a good 20 years before people discovered Aussie Shiraz — and the ensuing Yellow Tail juggernaut. In doing so, it introduced almost the entire Pepsi generation to wine culture. Some would suggest, much like the national character, those full-fruited, enthusiastically oaked red and whites were truly emblematic of the Australian style of the era: no nonsense, not exactly subtle, indeed, in your face — and (obviously) very much what the consumer wanted. Over the years, times and tastes have changed. Those once-neophyte consumers have grown up, broadened their palates, sharpened their sense of sophistication and often gone looking elsewhere. As did every other major New World region, from Chile to (well, almost) California, Australia changed tack. Much of that new-found sophistication can also be linked to the extraordinary blossoming of a mainstream North American food culture. While food and wine dinners and chi-chi grazes may today be all the rage, 20 or 30 years ago they were still a rarity, along with wines by the glass, screwcaps and more. Then there was that crazy idea of actually suggesting on the menu which wine you might want to drink with the dish. Whoever thought that one would ever fly? The end result is a vibrant community of drinkers and diners eager to explore and discover. If there was one trend that signalled a shift in the omnipotence of oak, it was the arrival of ABC, as in “Anything But Chardonnay.” ABC wasn’t really a wide-ranging purge, with the world’s most widely planted white as victim. It was more about the consumer confusing toast and vanilla as being indicative of the varietal’s flavours; and becoming tired of them. MAY/JUNE 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 27
That new generation of drinkers and diners eventually came to realize, as their horizons widened, that those oaky Chardonnays weren’t always quite as food friendly as they once appeared. At which point the marketers — those same focus group worshippers who have gone on to sell wine like Cola (or Fosters) — must have thrown up their hands in horror. When the Australians realized (all power to them) that they might soon have a wee export problem on their hands, they went right to work. They understood that the loyal consumer they’d helped create was yearning for greener pastures and, more to the point, often heading right to the Old World — where oak, in general, has always been handled with somewhat more care and respect. Winemakers also noticed a marked change when, in the early 1990s, Australian exports shifted to the UK. They discovered that palates accustomed to drinking Chablis and Burgundy sought a more refined style. That kick-started a move to explore cooler regions and plant Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in areas such as Yarra, Mornington, Adelaide Hills and elsewhere. The Aussies nurtured awareness of their cooler climate regions, established and emerging. In doing so, they actually did a lot of folks a favour. Across the New World, producers have responded with leaner styles, frequently with more used than new oak, and a greater emphasis on terroir, all of which has really helped to redefine the variety’s once tired image. However, the subtext here could be “The grass is always greener ...” Once dyed-in-the-wool Chardonnay drinkers started to gaze afar, they found plenty to tempt, especially those with more adventuresome palates. What else has been driving the move to no oak? Here’s a thought: The Riesling Revolution. Oh, is it finally here? You might well ask. But after all these years of wishing and hoping, it actually looks that way. Some of the reasons might well sur28 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2016
prise you. Can it be that consumers (and liquor boards) have finally figured out that Riesling isn’t necessarily sweet? Perhaps that’s part of the deal. More likely, however, is that drinkers faced with stricter drinking and driving legislation (especially in key markets such as the UK) have caught on to the fact that most Riesling clocks in at significantly lower alcohol levels: cue the perfect party wine, where you can drink more responsibly — or at least appear to. Add to that the reality that Riesling is being made increasingly in drier styles and remains the most versatile of food pairing varieties. In BC, where fresh seafood predominates for much of the year, aromatic and dry whites rule the roost: score yet another point for the no/low oak crowd. Except for certain, specific pairings — such as lobster and cream sauces, seafood rarely fares well with oaked wines. The proof, as they say, is in the pudding. BC chefs and sommeliers have made themselves heard and wineries have gone to work. Of the top 10 white wines sold in BC, no less than four are cool climate blends that almost, without exception, use no oak at all. Evaporated too is the notion of the white wine ‘cocktail’: the idea that any grapes that didn’t make the grade all wound up in the house blend. Today’s blends are often quite layered and complex. Even in red wines, the shift has been significant. Seafood with smart (no or low oak) red wine pairings are also becoming more the norm. Who doesn’t now at least consider matching a cautiously oaked Pinot Noir with Sockeye or Coho? The diner who is happy to throw the “white wine with fish” convention out the window is often as not well rewarded. Chances are that those reds are also significantly lower in alcohol. Even in the post-Parker era, there is no single, discernible factor in the trend away from oak and towards lower alcohol wines. It’s more a combination of ideas and market shifts. Nor will there ever be — nor should there be — a parting of the ways with oak, which still very much has its place. Though maybe not quite in the way it used to. ×
BERTON METAL LABEL VERMENTINO 2013, SOUTH EAST AUSTRALIA ($19.99) One of an increasing number of Italian varieties popping up in Oz: bright, tropical notes on top, followed by a crisp, clean tropical palate with pear and citrus notes, and a juicy close.
GEORGES VIGOUREUX GOULEYANT 2014, AOC CAHORS ($15.99) Floral, cassis and flint on the nose, followed by a well-structured palate with redcurrant and mineral hints wrapped in approachable tannins. Made by flying winemaker Paul Hobbs, “Gouleyant” means “yummy,” which it definitely is.
HAYWIRE GAMAY NOIR 2014, OKANAGAN VALLEY VQA ($26.90) A lighter styled Gamay but with plenty of personality, this easy sipping, concrete-aged red yields bight red berry fruits such as raspberry and cherry up front, followed by a pure fruited palate of savoury raspberry and easy tannins.
JEAN MAURICE RAFFAULT ROUGE 2013, AOC CHINON, LOIRE VALLEY ($21.99) This Cabernet Franc, aged in large oak casks, suggests bright red berries up front, followed by a savoury mid palate with mocha and peppery notes wrapped in lively acidity. The perfect match for cold cuts, tuna or cheese.
JOSEPH MELLOT LA CHATELLENIE 2014, AOC SANCERRE, LOIRE VALLEY ($35) Far left: James Ceccato from Berton Vineyards Top: Maria Elena Jimenez and Marta Casas, winemakers at Parés Baltà
A distinctly flinty streak, thanks to the flint and silica based soils that typify the best sites in Sancerre. Fresh citrus and stony notes up front, followed by a keenly focused, mineral, fresh palate and lingering close.
MONSTER VINEYARDS SKINNY DIP CHARDONNAY 2014, OKANAGAN VALLEY VQA ($17.90) Crisp and clean; un-oaked, all stainless steel fermented with apple and citrus wrapped in fresh acidity. Excellent with oysters on the half shell.
MONTE DEL FRA CA DE MAGRO 2012, VENETO ($19.95) A multiplicity of indigenous varieties (Garganega, Trebbiano Toscano, Tocai, Cortese [Fernanda], Chardonnay and Riesling) result in floral and honey notes followed by a basket of lemons, peaches and other orchard fruits, wrapped in a luscious, zingy package.
MY KARP 2014, MOSEL VALLEY ($20.99) Fruit forward, off-dry Riesling lives up to its fun label (a play on the family name) with citrus on top followed by luscious lemon/lime and stone fruit notes wrapped in a juicy, refreshing palate. Think spicy Asian plates, chili prawns or roast pork.
PARÉS BALTÀ ‘B’ BLANC DE PACS 2013, PENEDES ($18) An edgy drop, with orchard fruits on the nose, apple palate, bright acidity, a quick hit of minerality and a dry, clean end. Perfect for spring sipping into summer. Certified organic too.
ORMARINE PICPOUL DE PINET 2013, LANGUEDOC ($13.99) A perfect patio sipper and yes, the obscure south of France grape variety does have something to do with chickens, somewhere along the way. Bright, citrus and apple toned; light and lively, it’s a slam dunk for white fish.
ROMAIN DUVERNAY COTES DU RHÔNE BLANC 2013, RHÔNE ($20) Floral, peach and citrus on the nose followed by a very clean palate, with stone fruit, apricot and slight mineral hints before a crisp finish.
TRIVENTO AMADO SUR 2012, MENDOZA ($14.99) Torrontes with a bit of a twist, a splash of Viognier and Chardonnay blended in, that makes a charming but sometimes understated grape just a little less ordinary. Lemon and mineral on the nose, followed by a surprisingly textured mouthfeel with melon and zesty notes. MAY/JUNE 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 29
CRADLE OF THE DAIQUIRI by Rick VanSickle
HURTLING DOWN THE RUTTED ROADS OF CUBA in a lime-green 1957
Ford Fairlane in search of the perfect daiquiri seems a little bizarre, if not completely nuts. But hey, there we were in an oil-burning, gurgling hulk of a pre-Revolution US-made clunker with “millions” of miles on it travelling for two hours on the bone-shaking roads from Varadero to Havana where, rumour had it, the world’s best daiquiri is created hundreds of times daily at a bustling little bar called El Floridita. Let’s not even discuss the fact that our Spanish-speaking driver and English-speaking guide who picked us up at the entrance to our resort weren’t actually the ones our concierge hired for us. No, these two pretenders were part of a vast empire of clever grifters in Cuba who have mastered the fine art of deception to otherwise separate you from your pesos. But let’s not go there. Turns out they were nice people, delivered a service (maybe not quite the service we wanted) and got us 30 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2016
to the Floridita and back in one piece. We didn’t even know we were duped until we returned to the resort. We had made it our mission to break away from the “all-inclusive” resort routine and breathe some authentic Cuban life into our vacation for at least one day. The daily program at most Caribbean resorts is pretty simple: Sun, sand, pool, mediocre meals three times a day at a range of themed restaurants and all the booze you can handle. You lack for nothing, yet yearn for so much more. I kept a diary of the alcohol consumed during the vacation (I don’t recommend doing this) and it quickly became obvious that some drinks had to be eliminated from the daily regime. DAY 1 Cuba libre (cola, lime, white rum, ice cubes) Margarita (tequila, triple sec, lime, crushed ice)
Daiquiri (rum, citrus juice, sugar, crushed ice) Brandy (served with a Cohiba Robusto cigar) Cristal (Cuban beer) Sparkling wine (from Spain) Havana Club 7-year-old dark rum (served neat with a Monte Cristo #5) By day two, the drinks served with crushed ice had been eliminated, which makes sense. Undoubtedly you have heard of Montezuma and his cruel revenge. It’s all in the local water, so try to exclude it wherever you can (like all forms of ice). The “house” wines are generally from Spain (not bad, not great), Chile (so-so) and Argentina (a little less so-so). We brought a couple bottles of our own wine, a 1989 Château Longueville au Baron de Pichon-Longueville for a special birthday, a Jackson-Triggs Reserve Merlot 2012 and a bottle of Camus Cognac VSOP Elegance. By the end of our trip, my consumption had happily found a
CLASSIC DAIQUIRI FLORIDITA comfortable ebb and flow with absolutely no revenge included: cerveza, aged dark rum (straight up, no ice), a Cognac nightcap and a boatload of Spanish sparkling wine. Life was good, but we longed to find that perfect Cuban cocktail, one that didn’t use raw sugar as the main ingredient. That’s how we came to be on a long, pock-marked highway with two professional con artists steering us straight for Havana. The Floridita — it shines like a beacon at the corner of Obispo and Monserrate Streets in the bustling old part of Havana — opened its doors in 1817 as the Piña de Plata. This is the same bar later made famous by Ernest Hemingway, author of The Old Man and the Sea and so many other beloved classic novels. Tourists and locals alike gather today to experience the magic of the Floridita and drink the famous daiquiris made by the bar’s red-coated “cantineros” who preside over the long, curvaceous, mahogany bar that shows traces of its glorious history dating back 200 years. It was in 1932 that Hemingway, who was residing at a nearby hotel while finishing his masterpiece For Whom the Bell Tolls, stumbled into the Floridita by accident to use the toilet. As legend goes, when he came out, the daiquiris that the patrons were knocking back looked too
good to pass up. He ordered one and declared: “That’s good but I prefer it without sugar and double rum.” The bartender prepared a special version of the cocktail, with a double shot of white rum, fresh lime juice, grapefruit juice and maraschino, and thus was born the Papa Hemingway. It so impressed the author that he made the Floridita his home bar and was a daily visitor for years to come (he once drank 13 double Papa Hemingways in one sitting), arriving usually by 10 am. A life-size bronze statue of Hemingway is perched at the last seat of the bar with photos of the Nobel prize-winning author adorning the walls. How cool to sip the Papa Hemingway, a jarringly refreshing take on the sweet daiquiri, with lip-smacking citrus fruit and spicy Havana Club rum that melts away the stifling Cuban heat with each generous gulp. It was magical to watch cantinero William create this divine elixir with such care and expertise, as if each daiquiri were the last he would ever mix. We drank ours with profound satisfaction, drinking in the history, savouring the moment as well as the booze and comfortable in the knowledge that such a venue had inspired one of the world’s greatest authors. Indeed, as the large sign engraved behind the bar declared, we were in the Cradle of the Daiquiri. And it felt so right. ×
1 1/2 oz light rum 1/4 oz lime juice 1 tsp sugar 5 drops maraschino 4 oz crushed ice Mix the rum, lime juice, sugar and maraschino in a blender with crushed ice and serve with ice in a cocktail glass.
PAPA HEMINGWAY DAIQUIRI 2 2 1 1 4
oz white rum Juice of one half lime oz grapefruit juice tsp maraschino lime twist oz crushed iced
Mix the ingredients in a blender with crushed ice and serve in tall cocktail glass with a grapefruit garnish.
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FORGET THE WORM by Sarah Parniak
When I arrived at Mezcal Real Minero in Santa Catarina Minas, Oaxaca for my first-ever visit to a palenque on a sun-soaked November afternoon, smoke was everywhere — rising from the still-warm earth-and-stone pit used to roast agave and from the clay pot stills, heated with wood fires and stoked by the breath of a palenquero. As I toured around with Graciela Angeles Carreño, who manages her family’s fourth generation business, a honeyed funk hung in the air, wafting from neat stacks of cooked resting agave in all shapes and forms — long, slender Barril; plump and gorgeous Arroqueño; tiny Tobalá — and from the crushed agave fermenting in open wooden tanks marked with an auspiciously placed makeshift cross, destined to be distilled. A few yards away in a sunken area with a roof but no walls, warm mezcal ran off of small stills, collecting in a crude wooden spoon before dribbling slowly into a plastic container likely intended for storing gasoline. The entire method of traditional mezcal production can only be described as artisanal. Craft, small-batch, handmade: all of those hollow marketing buzzwords find genuine meaning here. Sipping the intense new liquid, captured fresh off the still in a hollow gourd, was dazzling, enlightening, intoxicating (both in a figurative and literal sense). Thus began my love affair with mezcal. I didn’t stand a chance. 32 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2016
THE WONDERS OF AGAVE
Derived from an elision of the Nahuatl words for “agave” (metl) and “cooked” (ixcalli), mezcal has been produced throughout Mexico for the past 500 years. But the majestic agave plant had mystical associations and ingrained importance long before the Spanish introduced distillation in the 1500s. Native tribes were privy to its wonders for thousands of years, using its resilient fibres for rope, clothing, instruments and arrowheads, and fermenting its aguamiel or sap into pulque — a fizzy, sour, milky beverage consumed for ritual and medicine. (Still ladled out across Mexico, pulque is a sip of ancient history and a seriously acquired taste.) “The agave — or maguey, as it’s called in most of Mexico — was so important and magical to the natives that they deified it in the form of Mayahuel [the Aztec fertility goddess],” explains Francisco Garcia, mezcal expert and co-founder of Wahaka Mezcal. “But to me, and most Mexicans, it is more than just a spirit or a happy high — it is a product that is intrinsically linked to Mexican culture, history and to its peoples’ livelihood.” Despite its anchoring stitch in the rich fabric of Mexican culture, mezcal was overshadowed during the long and storied ascent of tequila, left behind to eat dust as a lowbrow local drink. North American perceptions of Mexico’s original spirit were limited to plastic bottles of novelty swill leering from the dusty bottom shelves of tourist traps, larvae lolling in their depths. “Ewww, how exotic!” Judy would inevitably squeal, three Margaritas deep. “I should bring some home to gross out the girls …”
In the past few years, thank Mayahuel, misconceptions have lifted as genuine curiosity has emerged. For the first time in its half-millennia-long status as an everyman’s drink, mezcal is cool. As the tequila industry metastasized into an over-commodified Frankenstein’s monster, losing street cred for industrial practices renounced by a new wave of artisanally-minded drinkers, mezcal became the agave spirit du jour. Game-changing Del Maguey, founded by legendary artist and mezcal advocate, Ron Cooper — along with other brands like Ilegal and Wahaka — popped up in Mexican restaurants north of the border and found their way into the eager hands of cocktail bartenders. Gradually, the drink developed a persistent, albeit niche, presence in major cities like San Francisco and LA, Chicago, Houston and New York. (Canada’s late to the party, but we’re on our way.) In Mexican and Oaxacan cities, hipster mezcalerias are co-piloting Mexico’s celebrated culinary scene along with a pack of young and highly acclaimed chefs committed to honouring their roots. Considering its heritage, it feels disrespectful to whittle the drink down to a trend when its collective merits are closer to ineffable. As Garcia suggests, mezcal is Mexico in fluid form: the land, its people, a manifestation of their charm, pride, talents and superstitions. A common Mexican saying — para todo mal, mezcal, y para todo bien, también: for everything bad, mezcal, and for everything good, too — sums it up. Mezcal is all.
IT’S ALL ABOUT POLITICS
Mezcal is an umbrella term for Mexican distillates produced from agave. Tequila, which gained notoriety in an eponymous tiny town in the hilly western province of Jalisco, is a specific type of mezcal made only from the Blue Weber agave. Versatility is just one of its attributes. Commonly made from over 20 types of agave including silvestre or wild varietals, its range of styles and diverse spectrum of aromas and flavours — smoke and earth, fruit and florals, herbs and minerals, chocolate, coffee and petrol — is exquisite. No wonder it’s become tantalizing fodder for booze geeks. A denomination of origin for mezcal wasn’t established until 1995, over 20 years after tequila became the first spirit outside of Europe to secure a DO. An official regulatory body, now called the Consejo Regulador del Mezcal or CRM, followed in 1997. Currently, a bill labelled NOM 199 looms over the vibrant future of all agave spirits, effectively seeking to restrict the use of the words “agave” and “maguey” to distillates produced within pre-existing DO’s — even if they too are made from Mexico’s most revered succulent. These would be demoted to komil, a general term for alcohol, effectively allowing large industrial brands to evade transparency on the topics of adjuncts and production methods, damaging small independent business and dismantling many of the ethical standards the industry has been striving for. MAY/JUNE 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 33
“To place these restrictions on such culturally meaningful spirits is unfair to their heritage,” says John McEvoy, author of Holy Smoke! It’s Mezcal, one of a small handful of comprehensive books on the subject. “If you’re going to produce a good mezcal, you can’t do it in an industrial setting,” he adds. While Garcia notes that the large percentage of adulterated spirits on the Mexican market necessitates production laws and certifications in order to guarantee quality, he thinks that the bill is taking the wrong direction. “Unfortunately, NOM 199 is overshadowing some great advances proposed […] by the CRM, laws that are strictly focused on mezcal, which do try to even the playing field between small, traditional producers and the larger, industrial powers,” he explains. Independent producers and supporters of authentic mezcal are hopeful that the legislation will be thrown out, citing the defeat of a similar bill in 2011 as encouragement. A petition is circulating via the Tequila Interchange Project for those who care to join the resistance (hint, hint).
TERROIR, ETC.
Mezcal is officially produced in eight regions including Durango, Guerrero, Guanajuato, Michoacán, San Luis Potosí, Tamaulipas and Zacatecas; unofficially, it’s made all over Mexico. Its spiritual home lies in the mountainous, spell-binding southern state of Oaxaca, a cultural heartland as renowned for its craftsmanship and regional gastronomy as it is for its magical spirit. Drinking mezcal gives you a natural high, a lifted elation that makes you want to laugh and dance all night, but its effects are just a by-product of what makes it an exceptional spirit. Unlike other crops used in the production of spirits — corn, grapes, barley, etc. — an agave plant delivers no annual yield. Cultivating or stalking these starchy and magnificent spiked succulents is an extreme exercise in patience. In order to make mezcal, the agave’s sugary heart or piña must be uprooted before the plant has the chance to flower and seed. 34 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2016
Depending on the variety, agaves can take anywhere from six to 30 years to reach maturity. Easily cultivated Espadin, which accounts for around 90 percent of bottlings on the market, can be harvested within a window of six to 12 years. Wild agaves like the rare Tepaztate take their sweet time, ripening over the course of multiple decades. Like tequila, mezcal can be aged in wood, but joven (“young” or unaged) expressions are the benchmark. The consensus amongst connoisseurs and fanatics is that cask influence compromises the pure flavour of agave. With mezcal, the most crucial aging process occurs al fresco — well before the distillation process, while the plant is still alive. Considering the varietal and origins of an agave is essential to understanding the characteristics of specific mezcals. If you’re thinking terroir, you would not be wrong. On a 2014 Guild of Sommeliers podcast, Bobby Heugel, mezcal expert and proprietor of Houston mezcaleria, The Pastry War, suggests that it’s a spirit that should be considered in the context of wine. “The agave plant takes so long to mature that the land in which it was planted and the minerality of said land certainly affects its taste,” says Francisco Garcia. “And, if it is a cultivated agave, it will even be affected by what plants were previously planted on the same land.” It’s not only the place, but the people, that have a major impact. Garcia stresses the importance of the mezcalero. Whether they choose to ferment in wood or cowhide, distil in copper or clay pots, mash by hand, tahona stone or shredder, dilute with natural spring or distilled water — all of these factors matter. Many are third, fourth and fifth generation producers executing a legacy’s worth of technique, style and tradition.
WILD AGAVES AND SUSTAINABILITY
Everything about mezcal takes time. Did the mom-and-pop industry foresee a ratcheted demand eight years ago? Decidedly not. To make things more complicated, many increasingly popular agave varietals were — and are — harvested in the wild. “Before the current boom of mezcal that started approximately in 2010, no brand could foresee their agave requirements,” says Garcia. “It was extremely difficult for us to plant accordingly — in particular when you’re a fledgling company with the typical cash flow problems of a start-up.” Now, more than ever, it’s vital to establish replanting and other sustainability initiatives. Every reputable brand has a program for giving back to the land and planning for the future. Wahaka’s sister non-profit, Fundación Agaves Silvestres, replants thousands of baby agaves raised from wild seed around San Dionisio Ocotepec, where they produce their mezcal. But there’s a question gnawing at the secret heart of every mezcal lover: what if it becomes too popular? “I don’t know that it has the potential to be tequila in terms of sales and popularity, but do I think it can be a hell of a lot more than one percent of tequila sales in short order?” concludes McEvoy, “Yes.” ×
THE PRESSURE OF ORGANIC by Lisa Hoekstra
I used to scoff at the term organic. To me, it was used by companies in an attempt to charge more for something that was literally grown from the ground, like a tomato or a head of lettuce. How much more organic can you get, honestly? Apparently, a lot more. According to the Canadian Food Inspection Agency, the federal regulator in charge of creating and enforcing restrictions on everything from labelling foodstuffs to regulating biotechnology, the term “organic” is only allowed to be applied to products that have been certified by the Canada Organic Regime. Companies and products that have been certified bear the Canada Organic logo as proof (though, they don’t have to use the logo if they don’t want to, it’s completely voluntary). That being said, organic fruits, veggies and other foodstuffs have become the norm; like white noise, we don’t even notice the term at the grocery store anymore, choosing our produce based on personal preference and the desire to rid our diet of chemicals, or to help promote eco-friendly agricultural practices. The new (ish) members of the organic world, the spirits — organic vodkas, whiskies, rye, gin,
applejack and more — have started taking up more space on store shelves. They bear the Canada Organic logo, but have yet to explain themselves … what does it really mean when my vodka is organic? Two producers making headway with their organic spirits are Pemberton Distillery in British Columbia, and Toronto Distillery Co. Pemberton Distillery was the first certified organic distillery in BC and one of the first in the world to develop an entire line of organic spirits. They make organic potato vodka, gin, single malt whisky (the only organic one in Canada), wild-crafted absinthe and coffee liqueur. Pemberton was also the first distillery to win a double-gold medal for potato vodka at an international spirits competition. Toronto Distillery Co. makes organic rye, dry Canadian gin, beet spirit and applejack. In fact, they made Canada’s first and only certified organic white whisky back in 2013.
Pemberton’s Master Distiller Tyler Schramm and Toronto Distillery’s co-founder Charles Benoit were on hand to help me navigate the uncertain definitions and meanings of the term organic when it comes to spirits. So let’s start by outlining what the term really means. Schramm explains: “We are a certified organic distillery so when we put the term on our label it means that all of our raw materials have come from organic farms or suppliers, that all the cleaners we use are approved by the organic body and that they are biodegradable. It also means that we go through audits on a regular basis by the organic body, which assures the consumer that our product conforms to organic standards.” The Canada Organic Regime, according to the CFIA, “oversees all parties involved in the certification of organic products (including operators producing organic products, Certification Bodies MAY/JUNE 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 35
and Conformity Verification Bodies), and verifies all applicable regulatory requirements, standards and guidance documents.” In short, they are watching to ensure that when a product uses the term, it really is organic. While there are three levels of certification, the Canada Organic logo is “only permitted on products that have an organic content that is greater than or equal to 95 percent and have been certi-
could say was ‘Western Canada.’ So there’s no traceability.” Benoit and his team at Toronto Distillery believe that the ingredients used in their spirits are just as important as how they are distilled. So knowing where their ingredients come from is of utmost importance — and supporting local agriculture is one of their goals. “Without the organic system, it almost seems we wouldn’t be able to buy local,” states Benoit.
“I WAS REALLY STUNNED TO FIND OUT, WHEN I ASKED ‘WHERE’S THE WHEAT FROM’ ALL THEY COULD SAY WAS ‘WESTERN CANADA.’ SO THERE’S NO TRACEABILITY.” TORONTO DISTILLERY’S CO-FOUNDER CHARLES BENOIT
fied according to the requirements of the Canada Organic Regime,” states the CFIA website. Products with anything less than 95 percent can list the organic contents on their ingredients label or in advertising, specifying the percentage of organic ingredients, but they cannot use the logo itself. An interesting fact is that the terminology “100% Organic” is not permitted, according to the CFIA (so if you pick up something that has that claim on the label, put it right back down). “The symbol is the only way you can know for sure,” says Benoit. “You’re definitely not supposed to use the word organic in your products if they’re not, but the only way consumers can know for sure is with the Canada Organic logo.” There’s another side to the logo that many may not realize, and that’s traceability. “I had no idea when we started distilling, that there’s very little traceability in food distribution,” says Benoit. “I was really stunned to find out, when I asked ‘where’s the wheat from’ all they 36 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2016
In order for their spirits to be considered organic, the distilleries must undergo annual audits. For Toronto Distillery Co. in Ontario, the audit is completed by Ecocert Canada. And it’s a piece of cake. “We’ve had three now,” says Benoit. “It’s good. I mean we’re very confident because we’re not trying to cut any corners. They just come and inspect our records and make sure we’re sourcing from organic producers. I think it’s a lot harder for farms, because they’ve got to show that their fields have not been exposed to GMOs for a really long time. But we don’t have that because we’re just a processor.” It seems to be business as usual over in BC, too. “I think it would be a sign that we were doing something wrong if it was really stressful,” states Schramm. “But we do stop all other activities that day to focus on the audit, as the organic system is a user-pay and the longer the audit takes the more it costs, so it is in our interest to have it go smoothly.” For Schramm, they have an independent organic inspector
come in to inspect their files. “The […] inspector, myself and my wife, who is my business partner, comb through our records, checking to make sure that all inputs are certified organic. We also have to do trace backs, which is following a product’s history backwards to the raw materials it came from, which can mean finding a lot of records.” Ultimately, the first step for organic distilleries is to find certified farms. “We are pretty lucky in BC to be well endowed with organic farms,” says Schramm. “Under BC provincial rules as a craft distillery, we must use BC agricultural products as our raw materials for fermenting … which sometimes proves a bit challenging, but year by year this has become easier and we now can now find almost everything we need.” In order to hold the title of organic, these farms undergo annual audits, just like the distilleries, to ensure that they meet the requirements set out by the Canada Organic Regime — only permitted fertilizers, plant foods, soil amendments, aids, materials and weed management systems can be used; if livestock are involved, then feed type and additives are all monitored. Any deviation will result in the annulation of their organic status. After they have their materials, distilleries have to ensure that their production methods meet the Canada Organic Regime’s requirements. This includes processing and sanitation methods with everything in their building monitored from ingredients to pest control substances. “You gotta be careful what kind of cleaners you use,” says Benoit. “That’s a big one, for sure. You can’t just use any cleaners. It’s nice because a by-product of our spirit making is a high-proof spirit, because we made it from organic grain we can actually make an organic solvent. As long as we make sure our cleaning materials are listed as an organic product, we’re alright.” “We decided to be a 100 percent organic distillery so it does make maintaining our status a little easier than a mixed-producer that has both organic and non-organic raw materials onsite,” states Schramm. Organic distilleries have to ensure that the materials are not “contaminated” by non-organic raw materials. For distilleries that make organic and non-organic spirits, that means a separate storage unit, separate tools used to move the ingredients and separate machines for the
processing (or, at least, special certified cleaning products). Luckily for Pemberton and Toronto Distillery, they don’t have to worry about that. Instead, they have to consider the other difficulties that come with being all organic, all the time. “We likely have to do a lot more record keeping and testing than a non-organic producer. We also have to follow certain procedures specified by the organic body that non-organic producer would not have to follow,” says Schramm. “More than anything it means that we have to use less additives, there are somewhere between 100 to 200 different additives that can be used throughout the brewing, distilling and winemaking process, some are pretty basic such as calcium carbonate to adjust the mineral content of water but others are complex such as silicone-based anti-foam agents for fermentation vessels. We use none of these anywhere throughout our entire process.” Starting off as an organic distillery right from the get-go does reduce the challenges. “We went organic basically right away,” says Benoit. “So I think it was a lot easier because we grew up inside the system. I imagine if we hadn’t, there were a lot of things we would have had to change.” But that doesn’t change the fact that there are additional costs associat-
ed with being an organic producer. “All of our raw materials are more expensive than if we were using non-organic, in some cases as much as double in price,” says Schramm. “Spirits, beer and wine have not really seen the same price differential between organic and non-organic like you see in the grocery store for food items … This means that it is costing us more to produce our organic spirits but they are selling for the same amount as their non-organic counter parts.” It has to make you wonder (I know I did), with all the red tape associated with using the Canada Organic logo, why go that route? “With organic, there’s perfect traceability,” states Benoit. “You can go to the farm and know exactly where the grain is from. That’s why we chose to go organic.” “My original interest was in organic agriculture and Pemberton is somewhat famous in the agricultural world for its seed potatoes,” says Schramm. “These two ideas kind of collided for me and my initial idea for the distillery was for a potato vodka made from organic Pemberton potatoes. Being organic was something that I was passionate about. So despite it being a lot of work … and costing a lot ... it was, and I still believe it is, a very worthwhile endeavour.” ×
Pemberton’s Master Distiller Tyler Schramm and Director of Product Development, Lorien Schramm, produce the only organic single malt whisky in Canada
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When the most comprehensive book on Nordic cuisine yet printed in the English language was published last fall, its beautiful, austere images immediately reminded me of Saskatchewan. The landscapes of the two regions are far from identical, but both can feel stark and remote. by Joanne Will
Chef Magnus Nilsson, author of The Nordic Cookbook, helms Sweden’s storied Fäviken restaurant, where meals are made only of what can be foraged, fished or hunted locally. Nilsson’s five-and-a-half-pound tome, however, extends well beyond the reach of his restaurant. Inspired by travels throughout Denmark, the Faroe Islands, Finland, Greenland, Iceland, Norway and Sweden, the book is his take on Nordic home cooking and an anthropological study of culinary culture in the region. Many of the 700-plus recipes, which range from generations to centuries old, are built around single, regional ingredients. A small but mouth-watering sample: creamed potatoes with dill, stew of shaved reindeer meat, poached pike with horseradish, sweet-and-sour brown beans, lingonberry cream and nettle soup. The Nordic Cookbook also evokes the simplicity and deliciousness of the dishes prepared by my prairie-based grandmother. The growing season in Sweden, like Saskatchewan, is limited. Root-cellaring, preserving and zero-waste were a necessity before refrigeration and modern mass-transportation. By the 1980s, however, a typical diet in Saskatchewan included little of what was available locally. Unless you were lucky to have contact with elders who told about and taught the old ways, your sense of the possibilities for a local food culture — or what southern US chef Sean Brock, author of 2014’s Heritage cookbook calls “the taste of a place” — were likely limited. In Saskatchewan, as in many places, a homogenized food supply inflicted a loss of local distinctiveness. Industrial mediocrity set in and for decades, processed and imported foods dominated the shelves of grocery store chains. This included many products that were, ironically, made from ingredients originally grown in the province, such as prepared French or American mustards, lentil soup canned in Italy, and flour or oats milled south of the border. MAY/JUNE 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 39
Looking back on a childhood in Saskatchewan, I’m surprised how little we consumed — let alone celebrated — the local bounty. Instead, the focus was on exporting agricultural commodities, while neglecting our own dinner plates. I was fortunate to sit on my grandmother’s kitchen counter and watch while she canned crab apples, made chokecherry jam, holiday fruitcake, mustard relish or horseradish using ingredients from her garden. When I’m in the kitchen today, I can still hear her saying, “In my time, it was shameful to open a can to make a meal. Now, people almost expect you to do it.” FORMER WINNER OF TOP CHEF CANADA, DALE MACKAY r eturned home to Saskatoon three years ago to open Ayden
Kitchen and Bar. MacKay was executive chef at Daniel Boulud’s famed Vancouver restaurant, Lumière, for four years. Prior to that he worked for Gordon Ramsay in London, Tokyo and New 40 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2016
York. This spring, he opened a second restaurant in Saskatoon, Little Grouse on the Prairie. We thought we’d ask him about living local and the prairies’ culinary revival. On the eve of launching his new place, he discussed approaches to prairie cuisine and the health of a local food culture. MacKay starts: “It’s changed significantly in the last five years, and especially the last couple of years. People are now seeking out other food, and they expect more. They’re using local veg and local small farmers for meat. That kind of thing has definitely hit home here. I honestly think it’s much easier to do that here than it is even in BC because we have so many Hutterites and Mennonites who’ve been farming organic and local for as long as they’ve been here. That’s where we buy a ton of our veg and meat. They’re local providers, and they haven’t changed. They’re not trying to hit the cool stride of it; they’ve been doing it forever. So I call them — they’re the original hipsters. That culture has always been here.”
Dale MacKay discussing with general manager and mixologist Christopher Cho
IS THERE A CULINARY REVIVAL OCCURRING IN SASKATCHEWAN?
The idea of Saskatchewan is blowing up everywhere across North America right now, because of the fact that grains and pulses — lentils and legumes — are finally cool and hot. The UN declared 2016 the international year of the pulse. 100 percent of the lentils in Canada grow in Saskatchewan. Something like 65 percent of the world’s pulse crops come from here. The statistics are crazy. Even in New York, people are getting these cool heritage lentils and putting ‘grown in Saskatchewan’ right on their menus. Now it’s cool to be from Saskatchewan.
THE QUALITY OF LOCAL INGREDIENTS, FIRST AND FOREMOST SAYS MACKAY, SETS SASKATCHEWAN APART IN CULINARY TERMS.
When I lived in New York I also worked for Daniel Boulud and the head baker there went out of his way to make sure he was getting mostly ... it was all Canadian, but specifically milled Saskatchewan flour. It really is the best. There’s obviously something in our soil that makes growing here one of the best places in the whole world when it comes to certain things. Potatoes from here just taste different than they do elsewhere. Same as our carrots — I think garden carrots from Saskatchewan are the sweetest and tastiest carrots there are. You can taste it in the vegetables. We might not have the most exotic things here, but the things we have are very good. Asparagus for instance, I don’t think many people realize asparagus grows here, but the local asparagus is delicious. We went through almost 200 lbs during asparagus season.
WHAT CAN BE DONE TO CONTINUE FOSTERING A LOCAL FOOD CULTURE?
Farmers’ markets and things like that becoming so popular helps. We have a permanent farmers’ market downtown, and that is open three days a week. During the growing season, there are other farmers’ markets around the city too. People are starting to realize they’ll pay much less or the same amount from these markets and they get way better veg than at the grocery store. It has to happen naturally. It’s like the gluten fad — not everyone is going to jump on board. But I think people are just starting to do it naturally. Restaurants and chefs also help bring the public’s attention to fresh ways of thinking about cuisine. MacKay and others, such as Christie Peters and Kyle Michael of Saskatoon’s The Hollows restaurant, are doing a great deal to showcase the local cuisine and expand the definition of what’s possible within the province. “Yesterday we got in half a bison. We also get whole pigs and whole lamb, whereas I don’t think that’s previously really been done much in Saskatchewan as far as chefs or restaurants go. We do our best to get whole animals and do it that way,” says MacKay. Books can also help highlight a local brand of cuisine and inspire new generations, as with The Nordic Cookbook. If a similar review and study is undertaken in Saskatchewan — from First Nations cuisine to the influences of Ukrainian, eastern European and other homesteaders, I’ll be first in line to buy it. × MAY/JUNE 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 41
KICK IT UP! by Duncan Holmes
I’ve always thought it a bit tacky that no matter what the meal — and before they even taste it — some people have a need to shower what’s in front of them with a fiery splash of Tabasco, Frank’s Red Hot or any number of an endless array of Technicolor, mostly red capsicum-based sauces.
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These are the same people who, by rote, generously snow their food with salt, again as the plate arrives. You could be one of them and if you are, what you’re doing may have been a lifelong kick; but remember, it’s also an insult to the chef. At your home, or out on the town, whoever cooked it has seasoned your meal, tasted it and served it ready for the palate. But all of that said, it’s sometimes fun or necessary to give a meal a shot of salt or something hot. That’s after you’ve tasted it. Same with a lot of things. What is sushi without wasabi, fish and chips without more vinegar, bangers without mustard, and on and on. For whatever reason, it’s a treat now and then to turn up the thermostat of tongue-tingling heat — pleasure and certainly pain. Why, when it hurts, do we keep coming back to this stuff ? Why, when I sadistically mixed a blob of wasabi with soy and fed it to my very young grandson, did he flinch for just a minute, before smiling and saying: “More!” On the same note, I found these learned words in a Wall Street Journal piece about spicy food: “For some reason apparently unrelated to survival, humans condition themselves to make an aversion gratifying.” Precisely. Which is why the chili or the mustard, in all of their mixed-up glory, have ofttimes been heroes of the table. The story is often told that in certain corners of our world, hot sauces are added to meals not because they are treats, but to disguise the taste of food that, because of a lack of refrigeration, has gone “off.” Hot sauces are needed to be brought back to an edible state. Correct me if I’m wrong, but I think it’s a cruel urban legend. It’s not always that heat can make a mightier meal. Your cupboard or fridge is likely loaded with possibilities for pairings that can turn the ordinary into something special. I’ve often mixed honey and mustard as a brush for a fillet of salmon; roasted a rack of lamb with a topping of peanut butter. Yes, I had it one night at a suburban Vancouver restaurant. It worked and continues to work beautifully. We do all of these things because, while meals in all of their nakedness are perfectly elegant, there comes a time when they need a lift. There was a first time when the roast beef needed horseradish, when lamb discovered rosemary, pork united well with apple sauce, poultry with a jammy variety of sweeteners, and curry with a chunky chutney. It was a brave person who first ate a tomato, but it’s a clever you who will discover that bland can become bold. Leave the salt until after the first taste. Replace it with a taste that’s your very own. MAY/JUNE 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 43
Some like it hot!
I’ll try to stay on topic, but I’ve written before in this journal that I’m a persistent, impetuous and perfectionist canner. Show me a tree or a bush with its fruit near prime, and I’m there to pick it, slice it, and seal it into glass jars — to mix it into a yummy slurry, or to watch it drip more slowly than melting ice into what will be jelly for the morning toast. It simply has to be. The joy of something extra and different. Challenged by a cheerful family of shiny chilies, I decided to brew up a litre or so of my own ‘Tabasco,’ or version thereof. No recipe. Simply my trusty 10-inch knife, a chopping board, and to make a finer mix, the food processor. Chopping onions and suffering the tears is one thing. Chopping and handling chilies is a whole other story of tears, waves of blinding, all-absorbing pain, and a bathroom visit that ever since, has been a story to amuse the lads at the gym, but which I will always remember as a great kitchen fail. Chilies, regardless of their versatility, must be handled with the greatest care, and rubber gloves, whether you’re making harissa, sriracha or your own version of Tabasco. They not only recommended, but for your own safety and comfort, are essential.
MANGO CHUTNEY
YIELDS ABOUT 8 CUPS The best accompaniment for a curry, this recipe, which I’ve made many times, suggests that the mangoes should be green, but it doesn’t really matter. Be careful when you’re cooking the mixture, it can quickly stick to the pan if the heat is too high.
1 cup distilled white vinegar 3 1/4 cups sugar 6 cups mangoes (about 10 medium), peeled, sliced 1/4 cup ginger root, peeled, freshly grated 1 1/2 cups raisins 2 chili peppers, seeded and finely chopped 1 clove garlic, minced 1/3 cup onion, sliced 1/2 tsp salt Boil vinegar and sugar in a large pot for 5 minutes. Add remaining ingredients and cook about 30 minutes or until thick. Pack into clean, hot jars, leaving 1/2-inch head space. Seal. Process in boiling water bath about 10 minutes.
SRIRACHA
The commercial variety is famed for its rooster on the label. I picked up a bottle in Vancouver’s Chinatown and went online to find a recipe. “Chef John” said that not only is making your own sriracha at home possible, but it’s really fun and there’s hardly any work involved. “Serve it on just about anything.”
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1 1/2 4 3 1 1/3 1/2
lb red jalapeño peppers, stems cut off lb red serrano peppers, stems cut off cloves garlic, peeled tbsp brown sugar tbsp kosher salt cup water cup distilled white vinegar
1. Chop jalapeño and serrano peppers, retaining seeds and membranes, and place into a blender with garlic, brown sugar, salt and water. 2. Blend until smooth, pulsing several times to start. Transfer purée into a large glass container. Cover container with plastic wrap and place into a cool dark location for 3 to 5 days, stirring once a day. The mixture will begin to bubble and ferment. 3. Scrape down the sides during each stirring. Rewrap after every stirring and return to a cool, dark place until mixture is bubbly. Pour fermented mixture back into blender with vinegar; blend until smooth. 4. Strain mixture through a fine mesh strainer into a saucepan, pushing as much of the pulp as possible through the strainer into the sauce. Discard remaining pulp, seeds and skin left in strainer. 5. Place saucepan on a burner and bring sauce to a boil, stirring often, until reduced to desired thickness, 5 to 10 minutes. Skim foam if desired. 6. Remove saucepan from heat and let sauce cool to room temperature. Sauce will thicken a little when cooled. Transfer sauce to jars or bottles and refrigerate. Chef John notes that this version is probably a bit spicier than the “rooster” sauce.
HARISSA
Canada’s ethnic mix is rapidly changing. Not just new faces, but the foods that come with this change. Traditional tastes will remain, but there new entries will appear on our menus that were bill of fare in their home countries. Like harissa, a hot chili pepper paste most closely associated with Tunisia, Libya and Algeria. Remember what I said about rubber gloves.
1 red pepper 1/2 tsp coriander seeds 1/2 tsp cumin seeds 1/2 tsp caraway seeds 1 1/2 tbsp olive oil 1 small red onion, coarsely chopped 3 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped 3 hot red chilies, seeded and coarsely chopped 1 1/2 tsp tomato paste 2 tbsp lemon juice, freshly squeezed 1/2 tsp salt 1. Place the pepper under a very hot broiler, turning occasionally for about 25 minutes, until blackened on the outside and completely soft. 2. Transfer to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and allow to cool. Peel the pepper and discard its skin and seeds. 3. Place a dry frying pan over low heat and lightly toast the coriander, cumin and caraway seeds for 2 minutes. Remove them to a mortar and use a pestle to grind to a powder. 4. Heat the olive oil in a frying pan over medium heat, and fry the onion, garlic and chilies for 10 to 12 minutes, until a dark smoky colour and almost caramelized. 5. Use a food processor to bring together all of the ingredients until smooth, adding a little more oil if needed. Store in the refrigerator.
STREET STALL GREEN CHICKEN CURRY
SERVES 4 This curry doesn’t need a chutney to make it sing, because it already has all of the tastes that will bring you back for more.
750 g chicken thigh fillets 200 g green beans 1 cup coconut cream CURRY PASTE
3 2 2 1/2 1/4 2 2 1 1/2 1/4
small green chillies, chopped green shallots, chopped cloves garlic, crushed cup lemongrass, chopped cup coriander, chopped tbsp oil tbsp water tsp shrimp paste tsp ground cumin tsp turmeric
1. Prepare the curry paste by blending all ingredients smoothly together. Cut the chicken into thin strips and the beans into bite-sized pieces. 2. Cook the curry paste on medium heat for about 5 minutes. Add the chicken and beans, and cook for another 5 minutes or until the chicken is tender. 3. Stir in the coconut cream and simmer uncovered for another 5 minutes, or until the mixture begins to thicken. Serve with steamed rice.
BLASTED CAULIFLOWER WITH EGGS
My kids have said on occasion that my choice, when it comes to making leftovers presentable or for making the ordinary more interesting, has been to “put an egg on it.” So I was quite surprised when on one occasion they presented me with a recipe book by Lara Ferroni with exactly that title. (Sasquatch Books, Seattle).
1 1 1/4-1 1/4 1/4 1/4 2
head cauliflower tbsp olive oil, and more for drizzling tsp red pepper flakes cup pine nuts cup golden raisins tsp dried mustard Sea salt and freshly ground pepper hard-boiled eggs
1. Preheat oven to 450˚F. 2. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Cut the cauli-
flower into medium florets. In a large bowl, toss them with the oil, red pepper flakes, pine nuts, raisins, mustard, salt and pepper (to taste). Spread in an even layer on the parchment sheet. 3. Bake 30 to 45 minutes or until caramelized on the edges. Transfer to a bowl. 4. Chop the eggs and sprinkle them over the cauliflower mixture, along with another drizzle of oil. Serve immediately. × MAY/JUNE 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 45
SPIKE YOUR BEER by Silvana Lau
A man walks into a bar and asks the bartender to surprise him with a drink. The bearded bartender shrugs his shoulders, combines whisky, lemon juice and a few drops of bitters in a shaker filled with ice. He shakes vigorously and strains into a glass, then tops the drink with beer and garnishes it with a lemon. The man looks at the bartender and says, “Is this a joke?” “No,” replies the bartender. “It’s a beer cocktail, and that will be $12.” Ba dum ching! Not exactly a knee-slapper. Beer and liquor in the same glass? Yes. It’s not a joke.
Does the thought of mixing beer with liquor bring you back to the hangover-inducing memories of drinking a Boilermaker (a shot of bourbon or rye dunked into a pint of beer while your companions are simultaneously chanting “chug chug chug”) in your dimly lit basement of your high school party days? Let’s take a stroll down memory lane and revisit this old-fashioned alcohol combination. My first exposure to beer cocktails was in high school. The cheap, unsuspecting beer that I could afford tasted a lot better with a hefty splash of ginger ale or lemonade. Little did I know back then in the nineties that I was quaffing back the infamous mid-nineteenth century British drink, the Shandygaff, or simply the Shandy, also known as a Radler in Germany or a Panaché in France. Fancy names aside, how does a beer cocktail differ from a regular cocktail? Most cocktails depend on liquors, spirits and flavourings (e.g. bitters) to play off on one another. In these cocktails, beer is the main star and used as a launching point; additions are made around the beer. 46 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2016
This isn’t a new phenomenon. Historically speaking, mixing beer with other liquors was done out of necessity. It made economic sense. Beer was cheaper and more abundant than other spirits. In the early 1600s, rum had just been discovered in the Caribbean and sailors were given a “rum ration” on long voyages. In an attempt to extend their rations, sailors began mixing rum with beer, water, sugar and whatever else they had on hand. This mixture was called Grog. In England, the Purl, an ale infused with the woodworm plant and gin, is so ancient that it’s even mentioned in the works of William Shakespeare and Charles Dickens. While the concept of beer cocktails is continuously popular in many parts of the world, it never really took off on this side of the globe. It’s not common to see a customer walk up to the bar and order a beer cocktail (or ask the bartender for a surprise drink). According to Kayla Lambie, the former head bartender at Toronto’s Duggan’s Brewery, “most professional mixologists have an extensive repertoire of both modern and classical cocktails. They have an understanding of how flavour profiles between different
spirits interact. However, they don’t usually know the distinct characteristics that are found in various beer styles.” She continues, “craft beer experts are looking for some creativity within the particular style of brew they are drinking, but they usually don’t have to deal with creatively combining different flavour profiles. A lot of people consider themselves mixologists or craft beer experts, but very few people have a love for both cocktails and beer. The amount of mediocre cocktails available compared to exceptional ones creates a sense of doubt in many people who may want to try these cocktails.” Lambie is right; beer cocktails are a hard sell for both brew fans and cocktail enthusiasts. Snobs believe that their suds should be served in only one of the three ways: in a bottle, in a can or in a pint glass out of the tap. They are convinced that mixing beer with anything other than a handful of bar nuts is complete sacrilege. On the other side of the bar, cocktail connoisseurs prefer their fancy-pants-that-take-longer-to-make-than-to-drink tipples, prepared by a guy who looks like he’s from The Great Gatsby. BEER COCKTAILS, BEERTAILS, HOPTAILS, WHATEVER YOU WANT TO CALL THEM, HAVE NOT BEEN TAKEN SERIOUSLY. “Up until recently, quality cocktails and craft
beer may not even have been found under the same roof in a bar and still some aren’t,” explains Brad Hall from C’est What, a Brew Pub that has been serving up local craft beers (and beer cocktails) to Torontonians since 1988. There is a negative stigma that is still associated with beer cocktails. Blame it on grandpa’s kitschy homemade Shandies and the cottage staple “beeritas” (a frozen margarita with an upside down bottle of beer stuck in it). “The more bartenders and patrons take these cocktails seriously and less as an invention with leftovers from the bar or hangover drinks, the better the quality of these cocktails will be,” Lambie believes. It’s time for the stubborn purists to get out of their comfort zones. These cocktails are the ultimate peacemaking tipples for beer lovers, cocktail sippers and skeptics alike. Like it or not, beer is crashing the cocktail party. Hall agrees, “it will be much more likely that sophisticated cocktails and craft beer will have a home together in the same bars, with them meeting in the middle in the form of a cocktail.” The trends of craft beers and artisan cocktails have collided, allowing bartenders to make sudsy brews the backbone for new cocktails. Beertails have come a long way from the two-ingredient Shandy (sorry grandpa!). Innovative bartenders are combining beers with a multitude of ingredients including hard liquor, liqueurs, syrups, fruit and herbs. With its vast array of taste profiles and low alcohol content compared with other spirits, beer can make a sophisticated addition to any cocktail. Today’s libations, beers (and especially craft beers) have a complexity of flavour nuances that liqueurs, spirits, juices and other mixers just can’t compete with.
BEER-GRONI (RECIPE COURTESY OF KAYLA LAMBIE)
1/2 oz sweet vermouth 1/2 oz bourbon 1/2 oz Campari 3 oz English style IPA (#9 from Duggan’s) 3 dashes rhubarb bitters. 1 orange peel
Stir the first 3 ingredients into a lowball glass with 3 large ice cubes. Add 3 dashes of rhubarb bitters. Take the orange peel and trace it around the edge of the glass. Drop the orange peel into the glass. Top off the glass with the beer.
CAMPARI GRAPEFRUIT RADLER
This recipe is provided by Brad Hall of C’est What Brew Pub. “This is an easy beer cocktail that everyone with a basic bar can make at home. Don’t rely on the pre-made canned Radlers. This fresh-mixed combination is my favourite. The colour of the cocktail is simply beautiful.”
3 2 1 1 7
oz fresh grapefruit juice oz soda oz simple syrup oz Campari oz Pilsner from King Brewery
Mix all ingredients together in a chilled 14 oz glass. Garnish with a wheel of grapefruit.
THE “SURPRISE ME” DRINK
Serve this drink to your friends with the “A man walks into a bar…” joke from the introduction of the story.
2 oz bourbon 3/4 oz lemon juice 1/2 tsp orange marmalade 2 dashes Angostura bitters Chilled wheat beer (such as Side Launch Wheat Beer) 1 lemon wedge, for garnish In a cocktail shaker, combine all ingredients except the beer and lemon wedge. Stir well so the marmalade dissolves in the liquid. Fill the shaker with ice and gently stir the mixture. Strain and pour contents into a tall glass and top with beer. Garnish with a wedge of lemon.
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From the caramel sweetness of the malts in a stout to the grassy aromatic of the hops in an IPA, to the banana-y profile from the yeast in a wheat beer, the multiple flavour profiles open the door for more variety. Furthermore, beer offers an effervescence much like cocktails, calling for a splash of champagne or ginger ale. Beer indeed makes an excellent mixer. It goes down easy, plays well with others and is the perfect thirst quencher. Thirsty yet? Well first off, you won’t need to fluff around with muddling, stirring, shaking and slicing before you get to sip on something. Unlike the long list of ingredients you see in some drinks (the Commonwealth cocktail created by the Scots has a staggering 71 items in the recipe), beer mixology doesn’t have to be complicated; all it takes is imagination, a delicious lineup of beers, a few adventurous friends, and an evening to experiment. Follow these five tips to creating a tipple that will please both diehard beer drinkers and cocktail aficionados.
1. KEEP IT SIMPLE
Keep the recipe simple so you don’t hide the character of the beer. You want to bring out the innate flavours, not confuse or distract it with all the extra flavourings and additions.
2. BALANCE IS KEY
The trick to these cocktails is finding an equilibrium of flavour between the beer and the spirits. As in any well-made cocktail (beer or no beer included), you don’t want one element to overpower the other. For example, you don’t want to pair an intense and powerful spirit (aged bourbon) with a light beer (a lager). Leading us to tip number three, choosing the right beer …
3. CHOOSE THE RIGHT BEER FOR THE RIGHT SPIRIT
There’s a beer for every spirit out there. When choosing a beer for a cocktail, consider the primary flavour profiles of the brew. Decide on whether you want to amplify, harmonize or contrast that flavour. FULL-BODIED BEERS (E.G. STOUTS, PORTERS, BARLEY WINES, ENGLISH STYLE STRONG ALE): These dark, robust beers pair bet-
ter with bigger, darker spirits such as whisky, bourbon and dark rum. Lambie recommends combining a roasty, bitter imperial stout with ingredients such as chocolate, milk, coffee or even better, Kahlua and ice cream! A spiked beer float, need I say more?
HOPPY BEERS (E.G. INDIAN PALE ALES, AMERICAN PALE ALES):
Beers with a lot of hops are tricky, as the bitterness can be hard to incorporate into a cocktail. Lambie suggests taking advantage of this and using them alongside cocktail bitters to make a drink where bitter is a focal point (see her Beer-groni recipe on the previous page). WHEAT BEERS: The most versatile brew to use in beertails. They make a great starting point to any recipe. “Wheat beers 48 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2016
have an enormous range of flavours to play with as a result of the slight sweetness and banana flavours. The creamy texture and big fruit aromas are complementary to a number of ingredients,” Lambie explains. LAMBICS & FRUIT BEERS: “Tart fruity Belgian ales are incredibly fun to mix around with. Lambics already have a natural cocktail-like taste because of the sour and subtle sweetness,” says Lambie. At your next party, combine raspberry lambic beer, fresh berries, sprigs of mint with bourbon or vodka and a splash of club soda as an alternative to the expected punch bowl concoction. LAGERS: The high carbonation in lagers add a sparkling as-
pect to a cocktail. Lambie suggests making a simple beer cocktail by adding an elderflower liqueur to complement the light clean taste of a lager. PILSNERS: Depending on the type of pilsner, Lambie likes to play
with the grassy nature by making a spirtzy beer cocktail with a variety of herbs.
TIP: Don’t have any sparkling wine on hand during brunch? Replace the sparkling wine with a Belgian-style white beer in your Mimosa. The orange peel, coriander and spices in the wheat beer will make your Mimosa a little more complex than usual, all without breaking the bank!
4. STIRRED, NOT SHAKEN
Forget James Bond and his “shaken, not stirred” mantra when it comes to making a sudsy cocktail. “Don’t shake the beer as it will explode and make a big mess,” warns Lambie, who typically likes to mix the whole cocktail first in a shaker, pour and strain the contents into the glass and then add the beer at the very end. TIP: Introduce beer cocktails at your next gathering in a pinch!
Before your guests arrive, whip up a large batch of the concoction in a pitcher sans beer. When your guests come knocking, top off the pitcher with the beer so that the cocktail is as carbonated as it can be.
5. APPLY THE SAME RULES AS FOODWINE PAIRINGS
The fizzy element of the beer can make a beer cocktail an excellent palate cleanser. When choosing a beertail to pair with food, stay close to what the beer would usually pair well with. Focus on the main flavour profile of the food and apply the same rules as wine. “Just like sparkling wines are universally friendly with foods, so are pilsners,” says Hall. He also recommends matching darker and sweeter beer cocktails with dessert. Hall’s favourite beertail and food pairing? A Michelada, the Mexican twin of the Bloody Mary (with the added refreshing zing of a lager) goes down perfectly with brunch. ×
BOUQUET GARNI BY NANCY JOHNSON
GOOD NEWS, BAD NEWS First the good news: I had a beautiful baby boy — 44 years ago. Now the bad news: I’m still trying to lose the weight. This is the year I’m going to get down to my pre-pregnancy weight. I’ve been toying with the Mediterranean diet for a while and I think it’s time to get serious. The Mediterranean diet is all about veggies, fruit, poultry, fish, whole grains, beans and heart-healthy fats such as olive and canola oil, nuts, seeds and avocado. I’m down with that, although I do plan to spend a few calories a week on a glass or two of wine. As for that adorable baby boy, the one who wrecked my figure 44 years ago — he’s a scientist at Cleveland Clinic, working on a breast cancer vaccine. I’m a proud, slightly chubby, mom. TUNA NIÇOISE
SERVES 4 If you are feeling particularly ambitious, substitute grilled fresh tuna for the canned variety. If you can’t find haricots verts, use slender green beans. To hard boil eggs, place eggs in a saucepan, cover with water and bring to a boil over high heat. As soon as water comes to a boil, remove pan from heat, cover and let eggs rest 17 minutes. Rinse under cold water to stop the cooking process and peel hard-boiled eggs under cool running water.
× Search through a wide range of wine-friendly recipes on quench.me/recipes/
1 package fresh haricots verts, trimmed 8 small red potatoes 2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and quartered 2 shallots, minced 1/4 cup red wine vinegar 1 tbsp Dijon mustard Salt and pepper, to taste 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 bag mixed salad greens 2 cans tuna packed in olive oil, drained and divided into four servings 20 Kalamata or Niçoise olives 1. In a large saucepan, bring about 8 cups water to a boil; add haricots verts and cook until just tender and bright green, about 1 to 2 minutes. 2. Transfer beans to a colander, rinse under cold water and set aside in a large bowl or transfer to a skillet and sauté beans in olive oil for a minute or 2 for more depth of flavour. 3. Meanwhile, cover potatoes with water, bring to a boil, add a tsp of salt and cook, uncovered, until fork-tender, about 15 to 20 minutes. Drain and pat dry. MAY/JUNE 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 49
4. In a medium bowl, whisk shallots,
vinegar, mustard, salt and pepper. Whisk in olive oil, adding additional olive oil if needed. 5. Cut potatoes into quarters. Add to bowl with beans. Add salad greens and dressing. Toss well. Divide salad among 4 dinner plates. Top with tuna, egg and olives. Serve immediately. MATCH: Excellent with a Provence rosé.
YOU CAN CANDY ALMOST ANY KIND OF NUT. JUST MAKE SURE THE PIECES ARE WELL COATED.
SPINACH SALAD WITH BEETS, GOAT CHEESE AND CANDIED WALNUTS
Beets sometimes get a bad rap and they shouldn’t. Roasted to bring out their sweet flavour, they are delicious. Look for smaller beets, in any colour, for this recipe. Add grilled chicken to this salad for a satisfying meal.
4 small beets, cleaned and stems removed 1 tbsp olive oil Sea salt, to taste 1 bag baby spinach 4 slices goat cheese 1/2 cup candied walnuts (recipe follows) Citrus vinaigrette (recipe follows) 1. Preheat oven to 425˚F. 2. Cover a baking pan with parch-
ment paper. 3. Cut beets in half, or if larger, in quarters. In a small bowl, toss beets with olive oil and salt. Transfer to baking sheet. Roast in oven until beets are softened and browned in places, about 20 to 30 minutes. 4. Cool. Peel, if desired. Pat dry. 5. Arrange baby spinach on 4 plates. Top with beets, goat cheese and candied walnuts (you might not use all of the walnuts; they are delicious eaten out of hand.) Spoon citrus vinaigrette over each salad. MATCH: Uncork a Chardonnay.
CANDIED WALNUTS
1/2 cup walnut pieces 1/4 cup sugar
1. Preheat oven to 325˚F. 2. Spread nuts on a baking sheet. Toast
in oven, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 5 minutes. 50 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2016
3. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, cook sugar over low heat until melted and a light caramel colour, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat, add walnuts; stir to coat. Be careful, melted sugar is very hot! 4. Place parchment paper on baking sheet and carefully transfer candied walnuts to baking sheet. Allow to cool completely before eating.
CITRUS VINAIGRETTE
Play with this recipe — use more lemon juice and less orange, add a dollop of honey, whisk in Dijon mustard — make it your own.
1 1/4 3 2 1/4 3/4
shallot, minced cup white wine vinegar tbsp fresh orange juice tbsp fresh lemon juice tsp orange zest, finely grated cup extra-virgin olive oil
In a small bowl, whisk all ingredients.
HOUSE SALAD WITH MASON JAR DRESSING
The dressing will keep 5 days in the fridge, so use your imagination to create a different salad every day. You can chop the romaine with a knife if you’re eating it the same day. Otherwise tear it into pieces so the edges won’t brown. Top the salad with crisp bacon bits if you are over-indulging.
1 bag romaine hearts, chopped 1 can dark red kidney beans, rinsed and drained
1 red bell pepper, seeded and diced 1 cup shredded carrot 1 cucumber, peeled, halved, seeded and diced 2 large tomatoes, diced 1 avocado, peeled and diced 12 bocconcini (small fresh mozzarella balls) 1/4 cup sunflower seeds Sliced red onion, to taste Crisp bacon, for garnish Mason Jar Vinaigrette (recipe follows) In a large salad bowl, gently toss all ingredients with dressing. Garnish with red onion slices and bacon. MATCH: Open a Sauvignon Blanc.
MASON JAR VINAIGRETTE
Frankly, I’ll be glad when the Mason jar craze is over, but I’ll always have one jar on hand to make this easy dressing.
3/4 3 2 2 1/2 1 1/2 1/4
cup extra-virgin olive oil tbsp red wine vinegar tsp minced shallot tsp Dijon mustard tsp dried basil or oregano clove garlic, minced tsp salt tsp pepper
Combine all ingredients in a Mason jar with a tight-fitting lid. Shake jar until dressing is combined. ×
NOTED 94 WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE JOHN RIDDOCH CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, COONAWARRA, AUSTRALIA ($99.95)
90 BARTIER BROS MERLOT 2012, OKANAGAN ($23.39)
Exciting stuff! Made only in the best years, this icon wine is without a doubt one of the top Cabs in all of Coonawarra. Concentrated, elegant and layered; there is wall-to-wall plum, blackberry, dark cherry, eucalyptus, vanilla, anise, violets, black olive, herbs and chocolate. With all of the tannin, I suggest holding until 2018 and then drinking until 2032. (ES)
Lifted black cherry, cassis and plum on the nose precede a plush and accessible fruit-driven palate of black fruit and herbal hints with a mineral streak; good fruit/ acid balance before a lingering end. (TP)
Bold salmon colour in the glass with crushed strawberry and citrus on the nose before a juicy, well-balanced palate of raspberry, cranberry and rhubarb wrapped in refreshing acidity. Think cioppino, strong cheeses and cold cuts, or just good sipping. (TP)
THE QUIET MAN EIGHT YEAR OLD IRISH SINGLE MALT, DERRY, NORTHERN IRELAND ($58.95)
Though not as prevalent as Scottish single malts, Ireland’s single-distillery malted barley whiskies can be just as excellent. Ripe pears and apples on the nose with bright citrusy bursts of grapefruit and lemon rind counterbalanced with vanilla and confectionary notes. The malt really shows itself on the palate, along with orchard fruit and a blast of spicy heat. (SP)
90 BLASÓN DE SAN CARLOS MALBEC/TEMPRANILLO 2011, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA ($12.67) Clear deep garnet. Intriguing nose starts off like a “blueberry tea” cocktail, with a hint of barnyard and oak, opening in the glass to dates, raisins and vanilla. Tastes less complex than it smells, mostly of ripe blackberry with heat from the 14% alcohol. Prominent acidity and tannins. A red-meat wine; I enjoyed it with bison and date sausage served with polenta in a marinara sauce. Can cellar for another year or 2. (RL)*
91 VOLCANIC HILLS ROSÉ 2014, OKANAGAN ($18)
91 DOMAINE DE LA PÉPIÈRE MUSCADET SÈVRE ET MAINE SUR LIE 2014, LOIRE VALLEY, FRANCE ($23) 92 SUE-ANN STAFF ESTATE WINERY VIDAL ICEWINE 2012, NIAGARA ($24.95/200 ML)
This double gold-medal winning Icewine possesses a brilliant golden colour and intense perfume of honey-soaked peaches, golden raisins, dried apricots and spice. Rich but not heavy, thanks to the fresh acidity. Lingers long. (ES)
91 VANESSA VINEYARD MERITAGE 2013, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($36) Lifted black fruit, blackberry and cassis precede a plush and well-balanced palate of blackberry, black cherry and anise, with well-integrated tannins, a pronounced, stony mineral streak and a lengthy, spicy finish. (TP)
× Find a collection of tasting notes for wine, beer and spirits at quench.me/notes/
Organic, wild-ferment Muscadet, aged sur lie in earthen vessels, buried in the ground to keep cool and rest (obviously no racking) until the following spring. Light pear, subtle earthy lees, river stone, white florals and a fine vein of saline-laced lemon. Juicy and fresh with lovely tension throughout, cushioned by a gentle pillow of creamy lees and and driven by minerality. Would be a stunner with fresh oysters; a Muscadet that is worth laying down for a couple of years. (TR)
91 WITHER HILLS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014, MARLBOROUGH, NEW ZEALAND ($19.95)
Classic Marlborough style, very pale in colour but with a really intense bouquet and flavour. On the nose, it offers green pepper with honeyed lemon notes. On the full-bodied palate, you experience generous grapefruit and melon flavours with a crisp, lingering finish. (TA) MAY/JUNE 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 51
Each wine is judged on its own merits, in its respective category. Our scores are based on the wine's quality as well as price point. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Carefully study the commentaries to get an idea of whether the wine might appeal to your taste. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and may vary from province to province. Since a large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Evan Saviolidis, Rick VanSickle, Ron Liteplo, Harry Hertscheg, Sean Wood, Gilles Bois, Sarah Parniak, Treve Ring, Tim Pawsey, Silvana Lau and Jonathan Smithe. QUENCH USES THE 100-POINT SCALE 95-100 = Exceptional 90-94 = Excellent 85-89 = Very good
SPARKLING 94 13TH STREET GRAND CUVÉE BLANC DE NOIR BRUT 2007, NIAGARA ($70)
Spent 7 full years on the lees with zero dosage (no sugar added). The nose shows freshbaked bread, brioche, toast, lemon curd, wet stone, green apple and vanilla cream. There is a fine and dainty mousse to go with biting acidity that props up the wonderful smoky citrus, toast, vanilla, butter and mature apples on the palate. Gorgeous complexity and mouthfeel through the finish. (RV)
91 HENRY OF PELHAM CUVÉE CATHARINE ROSÉ BRUT, NIAGARA ($30) A blend of about 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay made in the traditional bubbly method. The nose is lovely with biscuit, cherry, raspberry, and subtle herb and rhubarb notes. On the palate, it’s quite dry and refreshing with crisp red fruits, pomegranate, apple, citrus, bramble and toasty vanilla notes through a lively, bright finish. (RV)
91 L’ACADIE VINEYARDS PRESTIGE ESTATE BRUT 2010, GASPEREAU, NOVA SCOTIA ($44)
Toasty notes on top, hints of brioche with a lively stream of fine bubbles add up to a convincing nod to Champagne. Good mousse and a well-textured palate, emphasized by citrus and leesy notes before a clean and lengthy finish. (TP) 52 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2016
80-84 = Good 75-79 = Acceptable 70 & under = Below average *Available through wine clubs
91 LOUIS ROEDERER BRUT PREMIER CHAMPAGNE, CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE ($69.95)
A very elegant Champagne with a creamy mouthfeel, beautifully balanced with minerally, toasty, citrus and peach flavours, and a long, lingering citrus finish. (TA)
90 STELLER’S JAY BRUT 2009, OKANAGAN ($21.79)
Nutty, toast and stone fruit on the nose plus fine bubbles and a persistent mousse before a rich and creamy palate with apple and pear notes. (TP)
90 CHAMPAGNE FAUBERT BRUT NV, FRANCE ($44.99)
Shows fine, persistent mousse with unfolding citrus, hints of berry-fruit, toasty brioche and a whiff of vanilla on the nose. Lemon citrus, green apple and trace berry flavours on the palate come wrapped in creamy texture with dry mineral grip, lively acidity, good weight, lingering citrus and toasty notes. Stylish, nicely balanced Champagne at an outstanding price. (SW)
90 COATES & SEELY HAMPSHIRE RESERVE BRUT NV, ENGLAND ($54) The first British fizz to land on our shores. This is a tiny, hands-on, traditional method (Méthode Britannique) sparkling house, making small amounts of very high-quality fizz. Salt, wet chalk, lemon pith and subtle earthiness rings on the intense nose and palate. Quite the bite with crunchy, citrus-spun acids, but charms with honest exuberance. Lively and bright, with a puff of lingering smoke.
Well done — looking forward to much more Brit fizz. 65/35 Chardonnay/Pinot Noir from 2009 and 2010 is blended and finished with a 10 g/l dosage. (TR)
90 TRIUS SHOWCASE 5 BLANC DE NOIRS SPARKLING 2009, NIAGARA ($55)
The 5 denotes that the wine spent that amount of time aging on its yeast cells before being disgorged. This has created a bubbly with lots of toasty/yeasty qualities that marry with strawberry, peach, cherry and earth qualities. Bright acidity, long finish and a certain austerity hallmark this wine. (ES)
89 VEUVE AMBAL CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE GRAND CUVÉE BRUT, BURGUNDY, FRANCE ($17.95) This sparkling Chardonnay from Burgundy is straw coloured with a toasty, apple and citrus bouquet; it’s medium bodied, dry, with lively lemon-lime acidity and flavours of apple and warm brioche. (TA)
89 FOSS MARAI PROSECCO EXTRA DRY, VENETO, ITALY ($19.95) This bubbly has a creamy, minerally, apple and pear nose; it’s medium-bodied, on the dry side but not too dry, with good persistence on the palate. A very useful wine for minor celebrations or to make dinner an occasion. (TA)
88 CÔTÉ MAS FRISANTE BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS 2014, SUD DE FRANCE ($16.99)
Fragrant white flowers and ripe yellow
fruit scents lead the way for an appetizing array of apple, pear and citrus flavours with zesty acidity, gentle fizz, a lick of mineral and a judicious touch of residual sweetness on the finish. (SW)
88 CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES BRUT METHODE TRADITIONELLE, NIAGARA ($22.95) Golden colour with tiny bubbles; yeasty nose of white honey, spring flowers with minerally, citrus notes; mouth-filling with apple, pear skin and lemon flavours with a toasty note. Nicely balanced, not exactly Brut but an expressive Chardonnay nonetheless with good length. (TA)
88 NINO FRANCO RUSTICO VALDOBBIADENE PROSECCO SUPERIORE DOCG BRUT, TREVISO, ITALY ($30)
Serious Prosecco. Nino Franco was founded in 1919 and is one of the oldest wineries in Valdobbiadene; the winery is now overseen by the 4th Franco generation. Fresh and juicy, with golden apple, white peach, tight pear and subtle hay. Lime-pith acidity cuts the residual sugar handily, leaving the finish crisp and dry. (TR)
87 ORIGIN AROMATIC SPARKLING WINE, NIAGARA ($7/250 ML)
This is the first sparkling wine from Ontario that comes packaged in a radically cool single-serve can. It’s made with 100% Vidal with a shot of Vidal Icewine and produced using the Charmat method for bubbles. The nose shows lemon, apple, biscuit, toast and fresh tropical fruit notes. It has a gentle bubble in the glass and on the palate, with a fruity, slightly sweet taste, but nicely balanced out by freshening acidity. (RV)
WHITE ARGENTINA 88 NORTON BARREL SELECT SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015, MENDOZA ($15.99)
French oak fermentation produces mellow-scented yellow fruits including tropical fruit and a light splash of vanil-
la. Succulent citrus and tropical fruit flavours are enhanced with subtle nutty, vanilla and spicy notes on the crisp, clean finish. (SW)
AUSTRALIA 92 HEAD OVER HEELS FORGOTTEN RIESLING 2011, EDEN VALLEY ($15.50)
Clear medium-deep yellow. Complex and mature nose of lime peel dipped in caramel, beeswax and rosewater. Full-bodied and, unusual for an Australian Riesling, some appreciable residual sugar on the palate accompanying apple and pineapple flavours. A long mellow finish is reminiscent of brandy. This wine has a “hint of destiny” about it — keep it for another few years. Good value. (RL)*
89 VASSE FELIX CHARDONNAY FILIUS 2014, MARGARET RIVER, WESTERN AUSTRALIA ($32)
Filius translates to “son of” in Latin, describing the relationship between these wines and their Premier “fathers” higher up in the Vasse Felix tier. This rich, stylish Western River Chardonnay certainly carries the lineage, with cream, dried herbs and fragrant wildflowers carrying through to the full, wood-drawn palate. 9 months in French oak (20% new) certainly pumps up the muscular structure, while textured mineral, lemon curd, green apple and wild sage herbaceous notes are brightened with a piercing citrine acidity. Young and bold, this will mellow with 2 to 4 years in the cellar. (TR)
87 WOLF BLASS RED LABEL UNWOODED CHARDONNAY 2014 ($14.99)
Opens with fresh citrus and floral scents with zesty ripe pear and citrus flavours, balanced acidity and drying grip on the finish. Serve as an apéritif or with simply prepared seafoods. (SW)
87 BLACK OPAL CHARDONNAY 2014, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA ($15.99)
Citrus, apple and lightly nutty scents give way to crisp apple and peach flavours, with background lemon citrus supported by bracing acidity, a trace of mineral and a light touch of oak. (SW)
86 LINDEMAN’S BIN 65 CHARDONNAY 2015, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA ($12.99)
Lively grapefruit and apple scents give way to lemon citrus and tropical fruit on the palate. Gentle fruity notes and crisp acidity produce a refreshingly light finish. (SW)
AUSTRIA 89 LAURENZ V UND SOPHIE SINGING GRÜNER VELTLINER 2013, NIEDERÖSTERREICH ($20) Spring meadow, gooseberry, green fig, white pepper and green apple open this stony, herb-brushed Grüner from Niederösterreich. The dry, oily, citrus-slicked and medium-bodied palate carries dried and fresh herbs, chamomile, fine meadow flowers, tangerine, white grapefruit, stony spice and green fig to a zesty, pithy finish. This would easily stand up to tarragon butter halibut, moules frites or pissaldière. (TR)
BRAZIL 88 SALTON VOLPI CHARDONNAY 2012 ($14.83)
Clear medium-deep yellow. Interesting aromas of Granny Smith apple, bananas, lemon and apricot. Light-bodied with green apple, lemon fruit and ample acidity. Surprisingly long finish. Drink yesterday. (RL)*
CANADA 93 13TH STREET JUNE’S VINEYARD RIESLING 2014, NIAGARA ($20)
This took me by surprise; such a beautiful Riesling with a nose redolent in grapefruit, green tea, citrus and a lovely vein of minerality, earth and ginger. This is an exotic and unique expression of Niagara Riesling with swirling grapefruit-citrus on the palate. Marzipan, white peppery notes and vineyard-inspired ginger through a fresh and vibrant finish. (RV)
92 THE HATCH DYNASTY WHITE, OKANAGAN ($30) Artful marriage of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Viognier delivers aromas of orange, apple and pear notes before a
MAY/JUNE 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 53
NOTED layered and richly textured palate. Bright acidity and stone fruit notes with a lingering finish. A perfect gauntlet throw down to white Meritage. (TP)
91 CHABERTON DRY BACCHUS RESERVE 2014, FRASER VALLEY ($15)
Upfront citrus notes before a vibrant lemon-lime palate underpinned by bright acidity before a clean, zesty finish. (TP)
91 GRAY MONK PINOT GRIS 2014, OKANAGAN ($15.69)
Flagship German-styled Okanagan Gris. Honey and apple on top followed by a generous and well-textured mouthfeel with sweet apple and spicy hints to finish. (TP)
91 VINELAND ESTATES ELEVATION ST URBAN VINEYARD RIESLING 2014, TWENTY MILE BENCH ($20)
The combination of aromatic purity, power and balance are truly impressive. Huge lime, bergamot, white peach and crystalline minerality soar across the senses. The palate achieves the status of a lovely Kabinett with a long aftertaste. Still an infant; it will be interesting revisiting this wine as it evolves over the next decade, at least. (ES)
90 GRAY MONK PINOT BLANC 2014, OKANAGAN ($14.79)
From one of the pioneers who helped established the variety which, at one time, was the Okanagan’s most widely planted white. Vibrant, forward orchard fruit notes of apple and pear supported by a juicy mid-palate. (TP)
90 LAKE BREEZE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015, NARAMATA BENCH ($22) Lifted tropical and citrus notes precede a focused, varietally true palate with some herbaceous notes, gooseberry and grapefruit, and a keen mineral streak before a crisp close. A good match with Acadian caviar. (TP)
90 TIME ESTATE WHITE 2014, OKANAGAN ($24)
A blend of 68% Sauvignon Blanc and 32% Sémillon yields honey and tropical notes on top, followed by a luscious palate with stone fruit, mango and citrus hints before a lengthy, textured end. (TP) 54 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2016
90 PENINSULA RIDGE VINTNER’S RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2013, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($29.95)
Peach, banana, pineapple, toast, white flowers, sweet apple, vanilla and honey qualities. Medium-plus body, concentrated and long on the finish. (ES)
90 REDSTONE CHARDONNAY 2011, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($31.95)
Toast, caramel, apple, white flower, honey and smoke on the nose meet up with spice and cream on the palate. Fine length, solid acid and a round mouthfeel make for a perfect pairing with grilled salmon. (ES)
89 BARTIER BROS GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2013, OKANAGAN ($16.49)
Orchard and stone fruit aromas before a slightly effervescent, more dry than offdry palate. Hints of rose petal and ginger in a pleasingly leaner but still expressive and food-friendly style. (TP)
89 JACKSON-TRIGGS GRAND RESERVE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014, NIAGARA ($19.95)
Lifted personality of nectarine, passion fruit, fruit salad, lemongrass and flowers. Mid-weight with great length. Pair with sole topped with lemon dill sauce. (ES)
89 MIKE WEIR WINERY LIMITED EDITION RIESLING 2014, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($22.95)
A fabulous Riesling from Weir, which has a soaring bouquet of bergamot, lime, honey, smoky minerals, with flowers on the nose. The palate is decidedly mineral with a long citrus aftertaste and just a hint of residual to round everything out. (ES)
88 KONZELMANN RIESLING 2013, NIAGARA ($13.65)
Peach, lime, citrus and apple are all wrapped up nicely by some sweetness and fresh acidity. Very good length. (ES)
88 PENINSULA RIDGE BARREL AGED CHARDONNAY 2014, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($15.95)
Medium-bodied; there is green apple, citrus, spice and hints of stone fruit. The crisp acidity makes for a very food-friendly wine. Ready to drink. (ES)
88 RAVINE VINEYARD SMALL BATCH RIESLING 2014, ST DAVID’S BENCH ($28) Bergamot, honey, lime, white flower, green apple and minerals carry from the nose to the taste buds. A hint of residual sugar and vibrant acidity make for a fine matchup with Thai or sushi. (ES)
87 KACABA OAK AGED CHARDONNAY 2014, NIAGARA ESCARPMENT ($24.95)
Vanilla bean, pear, red apple, cinnamon, honey and citrus flavours fold into a creamy texture with a good amount of acidity. Elegant with very good length and lifted acidity. Pair with crab cakes or grilled kalamari topped with a garlic aioli. (ES)
86 CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES BARREL FERMENTED CHARDONNAY 2014, NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE ($14) Just the right amount of fruit-to-oak ratio. Flavourful with peach, red apple, toast, spice and notes of honey. Medium length and ready to drink. (ES)
86 SMALL TALK VINEYARDS BURNING AMBITION 2013, NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE ($14.95)
A blend of Riesling and Gewürztraminer. Peach, pineapple, spice, flowers and honey are all in play. Needs something spicy such as pad Thai or a green curry dish to act as a counterpoint to the sweetness. (ES)
86 CALLIOPE VIOGNIER 2014, BC VQA ($16)
Engaging tangerine, pear, cantaloupe and herbal aromas lead to spicy apricot and tangy Seville orange flavours. The weighty mid-palate creaminess gives way to a slight oiliness on the back end. Finishes with hints of anise and white pepper. Try with coconut Thai chicken. (HH)
CHILE 89 LAS MULAS ORGANIC SAUVIGNON BLANC RESERVE 2015, CENTRAL VALLEY ($12.95)
This organically grown Sauvignon Blanc from Chile is light straw in colour with a bouquet of kiwi and citrus fruits. It’s
medium-bodied and dry with a lovely mouthfeel and a lively spine of acidity that gives it good length in the mouth. (TA)
88 CASA SILVA COOL COAST SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014, COLCHAGUA VALLEY ($16.95) Almost water-white in colour, this zesty Sauvignon offers a nose of kiwi and green pepper. It’s medium-bodied and crisply dry with tart green plum and citrus flavours. An ideal seafood wine. (TA)
FRANCE 91 COSSY VIEILLES VIGNES 2005, CHAMPAGNE ($58)
Pale golden colour. Complex nose, fresh and elegant with notes of white fruits, fresh mushroom underlined by mineral accents and a delicate floral touch. Vinous and quite dry, its taste is doubled on the nose with added notes of toasted bread. Finishes very long with a touch of bitterness for even more complexity. A great Champagne at a reasonable price. (GBQc)
89 WILLY GISSELBRECHT TRADITION GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2013, ALSACE ($18.95)
Spot-on Alsace Gewürz at an affordable price. Spicy, lychee and melon nose with concentrated lychee and rose-petal flavours rounded with a honeyed note. A touch of sweetness in mid-palate mitigated by a crisp acidic finish. (TA)
89 DOMAINE DES HUARDS PURE 2014, CHEVERNY, LOIRE VALLEY ($20.10)
Pale yellow. Sauvignon Blanc defines its nose (herbaceous notes with citrus and a chalky mineral undertone), while Chardonnay is responsible for its soft and somewhat thick texture. Taste is light and Sauvignon makes a comeback in the slightly vegetal but intense finish. Drink or wait a couple of years. (GBQc)
89 DOMAINE DES MALANDES CHABLIS 2014, BURGUNDY ($24.95) Very pale. Distinctive, minerally nose with subtle notes of white fruits and citrus plus a hint of smoke. Balanced with noticeably mild acidity (for a Chablis) and a round, moderately fruity mid-palate. Clean finish. Drink or hold. (GBQc)
88 BOUCHARD PÈRE ET FILS 2014, MACON-LUGNY SAINTPIERRE AC ($23.99)
Shows fragrant floral and green apple with a whiff of hazelnut on the nose. Pure apple flavour is delivered in a smooth, lightly creamy texture tempered by mineral, crisp acidity and citrus notes on the finish. (SW)
GERMANY 91 STUDERT-PRÜM WEHLENER SONNENUHR RIESLING SPÄTLESE 2011, MOSEL ($24.95)
This late-harvest wine is old-style German Riesling at its best. Very pale straw in colour, it offers a floral nose of lime, apple and honey. Off dry with honey and citrus flavours, its 8% alcohol make it very light on the palate. A beautifully balanced wine. (TA)
91 WEINGUT ST URBANS-HOF RIESLING KABINETT OCKFENER BOCKSTEIN 2013, MOSEL ($27)
Pale green tint. Delicate nose of conifer resin and lime. Bright acidity balanced by a good deal of residual sugar, resulting in a round mid-palate. An archetype of German Riesling; great if you like that style. (GBQc)
90 LINGENFELDER BIRD LABEL RIESLING 2013, PFALZ ($14.95)
The ever-reliable Rainer Lingenfelder has a way with Riesling. Straw-coloured with a spicy, honey, melon and citrus nose; off dry, peach and honey flavours. Great mouthfeel, great price. (TA)
ITALY 89 ANSELMI SAN VINCENZO 2014, VENETO ($23)
I love northern Italian whites, and Anselmi is one of the forerunners of quality whites from the Soave region (though he uses IGT Veneto rather than DOC Soave). Founded in 1948, the winery has 70 ha of vineyards in Monteforte d’Alpone, high in the hills between Soave and Monteforte, near Verona. This expressive Garganega/ Chardonnay/Sauvignon Blanc blend carries almonds, wild herbs, honeysuckle and tropical orange along a waxy palate,
one finely textured with broken stones. Nimble acidity keeps this light for all its concentration. Excellent value. (TR)
NEW ZEALAND 90 SAINT CLAIR FAMILY ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2014, MARLBOROUGH ($17)
A lovely nose of lemon, pear, apple, subtle spice and swirling mineral notes. A nicely balanced Chard on the palate with a refreshing citrus core followed by spice and melon notes. Light and fruity with a zesty finish. (RV)
89 CLOUDY BAY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015, MARLBOROUGH ($30)
2015 marks Cloudy Bay’s 30th anniversary as well as one of the driest summers on record for the country. Concentrated tropical fruits — kiwi, gooseberry, papaya, tangerine — rule from first whiff, alongside a tangy, potent base of meadow grass, green pepper and greengage. Lemon peel spikes the acidity up a few notches on this intense Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Not shy, and a great example of this type of Kiwi Sauvignon. Where is that blind tasting exam when you need one? (TR)
88 BRANCOTT ESTATE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015, MARLBOROUGH ($16.99)
Piquant aromatic green fruit intensity shows grassy herbal notes, gooseberry and a whiff of asparagus. Green gooseberry flavour with lightly smoky and mineral notes in the mouth comes with characteristic bracing acidity and a touch of passion fruit on the finish. (SW)
88 KIM CRAWFORD SMALL PARCELS FAVOURITE HOMESTEAD PINOT GRIS 2012, MARLBOROUGH ($25) New Zealand Pinot Gris is a chameleon, from rich and concentrated through the spectrum to zesty and lean. This small-parcels Pinot Gris is in the former camp: a textured, spicy and ripe Gris that balances out scented baskets of orchard fruit and musk melon with a zesty, grapefruit acidity. A blanket of lees covers the bottom layer of this fuller-bodied wine, one that ends a bit bluntly with pear skin and ample toasty spice. (TR)
MAY/JUNE 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 55
NOTED UNITED STATES 90 RAYWOOD CHARDONNAY 2013, CALIFORNIA CENTRAL COAST ($14.67)
Clear medium-deep light gold. Scents of apple, melon, ripe banana and lime, with a light touch of oak. Full-bodied with lots of pleasing peach and watermelon fruit, and appropriate acidity for balance. Not over-oaked; would make a good house wine. Drink up. (RL)*
88 BERINGER FOUNDER’S ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2013, NAPA ($16.95) Pale straw in colour with a buttery, sweet apple nose. The wine is enhanced by a light oak spicing; medium- to full-bodied on the palate, it has apple and a touch of oak on the finish. A well-made wine for the price. (TA)
83 VISTA POINT PINOT GRIGIO COLOMBARD NV, CALIFORNIA ($12) Shows rather shy green apple scent with rounded apple and citrus flavours, balanced acidity and a touch of residual sweetness. Everyday wine at an everyday price. (SW)
ROSÉ 91 LIQUIDITY ROSÉ 2014, OKANAGAN ($20)
100% Dornfelder sports bright red strawberry and raspberry notes on top. A refreshing burst of rhubarb, strawberry and citrus on the quite dry palate with some spicy notes in the close. (TP)
RED ARGENTINA 92 COLOME TANNAT LOTE ESPECIAL 2013, CALCHAQUI VALLEY ($43) From some of the highest altitude vineyards in the world comes this compelling wine that’s dark with intriguing black fruit and floral aromas. Bold, 56 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2016
spicy and concentrated with a juiciness in the mid-palate, firm yet elegant tannins, dark fruit and a long fresh finish. A great match with roasted meats and grilled sausages. (GB)
89 AMALAYA VINO TINTO DE ALTURA 2013, CALCHAQUI VALLEY, SALTA ($20)
From Salta’s high desert, vineyards for this Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah blend are at 2,000 m altitude — a pristine, extreme environment. Amalaya is the local word for the hopes of a bountiful harvest, and this bio-dynamically farmed marvel certainly has enjoyed that. Wild dark berries, espresso, herbal twine and stem weave along a fuller-bodied palate with perfumed florals, juicy plum and ripe blackberry jam. Acidity is brisk and fresh; tannins are ripe and softly supportive with a welcome tug on the finish. Peppery spice texture throughout. (TR)
88 TRAPICHE LAS PALMAS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, MENDOZA ($16.95)
Dense ruby in colour with an herb-tinged, blackcurrant and cedar nose; full-bodied, dry and firmly structured. Will reward cellaring for 2 to 3 years. (TA)
88 VIÑA COBOS FELINO CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, MENDOZA ($19.95)
Cherry-red. Spicy nose with red berries and oak notes. Charming on the palate with a ripe fruity taste, fleshy texture and tame acidity. Best drunk right now. (GBQc)
AUSTRALIA 91 WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE BLACK LABEL CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, COONAWARRA ($27.95)
This perennial 90+ point wine does it again in the 2013 vintage. Full bodied, polished and elegant, it serves up a soaring bouquet of blackberry, plum, mint and violets. The palate adds eucalyptus, vanilla, spice and a chocolate-tinged finish. It should age well over the next 8 to
10 years. For the price, make sure to pick up a few bottles for the cellar. (ES)
89 WAKEFIELD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, CLARE VALLEY ($17.95)
Intense purple colour with a nose of ripe plum and blackcurrant lifted with cedar notes. Elegant and well balanced for the price; full bodied with a firm, tannic finish. (TA)
88 THE ENTERTAINER RED BLEND, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($15.95)
From the Wolf Blass stable. A well-priced red blend of 56% Grenache, 44% Shiraz. Deeply coloured with a bouquet of black raspberries and plums; medium bodied, dry, fruity and jammy on the palate with herbal notes. (TA)
88 JIM BARRY THE COVER DRIVE COONAWARRA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, COONAWARRA, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($28)
This cricket-labeled Cabernet Sauvignon bats it out of the park (how’s that for a sports reference?) for nailing Coonawarra character. Tobacco, dusty raspberry, a hint of medicinal cherry and a pretty floral vein flow through this medium-bodied red. Supple red tannins support the concentration handily, with a welcome nudge of grippy tannins easing the crunchy corners. Brisk acidity and a stony, faintly iron underlay prop up the whole to the finish, one feeling slightly hotter than the 13.5% labeled. Regardless, pouring this with pork chops will earn you a home run (do they have those in cricket?). (TR)
BULGARIA 86 DOMAINE BOYAR CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014 ($8.90)
If you are looking for a bang-for-thebuck everyday sipper, this is your wine! It is smooth and easy-drinking with plum, dark cherry, mint, spice and violet flavours. Medium body and length. Ready to drink with pasta, pizza or burgers. For this price, a case purchase is mandated. (ES)
CANADA 93 13TH STREET ESSENCE SYRAH 2013, NIAGARA ($45)
Such a thought-provoking and exciting nose of cured and grilled meats, cracked black peppercorns, concentrated cherry, boysenberry, blueberry pie, earth, blackcurrants and garrigue. This is a wild, untethered Syrah loaded with personality on the palate. It shows rich, spicy red and dark fruit, all propped up by firm tannic structure and bright acidity that lends an air of elegance to the finish. (RV)
92 TINHORN CREEK CABERNET FRANC 2012, OKANAGAN ($24.99)
Lifted dark berry notes up front, with a redand black-fruit palate driven by persistent acidity, hints of black pepper and cedar notes. Layered and elegant with dark edges around toasty notes and approachable tannins before a lengthy end. A textbook Okanagan Cab Franc. (TP)
92 KACABA PROPRIETOR’S BLOCK SYRAH 2013, NIAGARA ($30)
Such a beauty, and a perfect example of cool-climate Ontario Syrah at its best. The nose is exciting with beetroot, cracked pepper, currants, bay leaves, dried herbs and rich red fruits. It is savoury and raw on the palate with toasted spices, pepper, anise, concentrated cherry and raspberry, liquorice and campfire smoke all built on a solid structure that builds through a lengthy finish. Buy, hold and enjoy. (RV)
92 VANESSA VINEYARDS SYRAH 2013, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($39)
Second release shows more varietal character from still-young vines, with a splash of Viognier for complexity. Black plum, mocha and cedar notes precede a meaty palate of black fruit, chocolate and pepper notes with some spice and smoke before a lingering end. (TP)
91 SANDHILL SMALL LOTS BARBERA 2013, OKANAGAN ($26)
Winemaker Howard Soon and grower Richard Cleave continue their fortuitous collaboration with the country’s sole planting of Barbera. Garnet in the glass with vibrant cherry, smoky and leather notes before an assertive but elegant palate of red berries and earthy hints. Excellent structure and good acidity. (TP)
91 MAVERICK PINOT NOIR 2014, OKANAGAN ($29)
Winemaker Bertus Albertyn’s inaugural Pinot release brings red fruit and earthy hints on the nose before a layered medium-bodied palate of black cherry, damson and peppery notes, wrapped in structured but approachable tannins with definite mineral hints. Should develop very well over the next 5 years. (TP)
90 MOUNT BOUCHERIE GAMAY NOIR 2012, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($20) Cherry, toasty notes on top before a medium-bodied, well-structured palate of red fruit. Gently earthy and peppery notes supported by lively acidity and well-integrated tannins. (TP)
90 HENRY OF PELHAM BACO NOIR RESERVE 2013, NIAGARA ($25) Fans will love this robust version of old-vine Baco from Henry of Pelham. It’s meaty, dark and intense on the nose with aromas of plums, smoky spices, cherry liqueur, sweet oak and bramble. It’s quite rich and savoury on the palate with flavours of plum pudding, pepper, anise, campfire smoke and a range of spice with good vibrancy through the finish. (RV)
90 MAVERICK RUBEUS 2013, OKANAGAN ($25)
The former Rubicon returns with a slightly different moniker. Complex aromas of mocha, mulberry and red fruits preceding a layered and evolving palate of plummy and cassis notes. Good structure and well-integrated tannins underpinned by flinty hints and a lingering close. (TP)
90 FIELDING ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, NIAGARA ($30)
Deep ruby colour; there is evident oak in the form of chocolate, coffee and spice that folds into the dark cherry and blackberry fruit. Ripe tannins and great length mean it should be consumed over the next 5 to 7 years. (ES)
90 BURROWING OWL MERITAGE 2012, OKANAGAN ($45)
A complex, well-balanced Bordeaux-style blend of Cab Franc (43%), Merlot (28%), Cab Sauv (20%) and Petit Verdot (9%). Compelling bouquet of blueberry, blackcurrant, tobacco and cedar. Fresh acidity, rich cassis and soft tannins on a full-bod-
ied palate. Coffee and cocoa notes linger. A Sunday-night roast companion, now or over the next 6 years. (HH)
89 KACABA MERLOT 2013, NIAGARA ESCARPMENT ($29.95)
To ensure that the Merlot was fully ripe in the cool 2013 vintage, Kacaba left the grapes to hang until mid-October. The result is a rather fullish red with plum, dark cherry, toast, chocolate, spice and green olive qualities. Cuban ropa vieja or a skirt steak with chimichurri would be stellar pairings. (ES)
89 MAVERICK ESTATE SYRAH 2013, SOUTHERN OKANAGAN ($32) Dense purple-ruby colour; smoky, herby, blackberry and blueberry nose; smoky blackberry and blueberry flavour with tones of sage and bitter chocolate backed by lively acidity. Northern Rhône style. (TA)
89 QUAILS’ GATE SYRAH THE BOSWELL 2013, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($52)
BC Syrah is exiting. Most of the Syrah in the province is grown in the southern Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys, but the grapes for this wine are from a site in Kelowna adjacent to Lake Okanagan whose moderating effect protects the vines from winter damage. The wine shows red and black berry fruit, white pepper. Meaty with an elegant texture, tight core and lovely freshness on the finish. The vineyard was only planted in 2010 and the winery is still playing with the wine’s oak regime. Cutting back a little on the oak’s prominence would make this wine even more fresh and compelling. (GB)
88 LAKEVIEW CELLARS SYRAH 2012, NIAGARA ($14.95)
This Niagara Syrah is deep ruby in colour with a savoury, red-berry, herbal nose; it’s medium-bodied and dry with a herb-tinged raspberry flavour. There’s a touch of sweetness mid-palate but it’s nicely balanced. (TA)
88 EVOLVE CABERNET/MERLOT 2014, OKANAGAN ($18.99)
Vibrant red and blue fruit on the nose followed by a cassis- and cherry-toned palate with easy tannins and a solid finish. Pair with pasta or braised meats. (TP) MAY/JUNE 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 57
NOTED 88 KACABA SILVER BRIDGE VINEYARD SYRAH 2013, NIAGARA ESCARPMENT ($29.95)
Made from 25-year-old vines, this Syrah is still a tad closed. Features plum, raspberry and cranberry flavours that encapsulate black pepper, cocoa, incense, oregano and vanilla notes. Very good length, fine acid and approachable. (ES)
88 BURROWING OWL CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, OKANAGAN ($35) More fragrant and fruitier with softer tannins than the past few vintages. Generous blackcurrant, red plum, dusty sage, black olive and lingering leather on the finish. A friend of steak. (HH)
88 ROAD 13 5TH ELEMENT 2011, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($49)
A well-balanced blend of the 5 classic Bordeaux grapes plus fleshy Syrah. Fresh aromas and red-fruited flavours dominate, with notes of tobacco, black pepper and cedar. Pairs well with roasted meats. (HH)
87 ROCKWAY VINEYARDS RED ASSEMBLAGE 2013, TWENTY MILE BENCH ($17.95)
54% Cabernet Franc, 31% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon reveals cassis, raspberry, mint, herbs, tobacco and violets. Splendid length, good acid and suave tannins. (ES)
87 KACABA TERRACED VINEYARD SYRAH 2013, NIAGARA ESCARPMENT ($29.95)
Compared to the Silver Bridge Syrah, this is a more open rendition that sings black pepper, dark cocoa, plum, raspberry, oregano and violets. Ready to drink with pot roast. (ES)
CHILE 94 O FOURNIER ALFA CENTAURI CABERNET SAUVIGNON/CABERNET FRANC/MERLOT 2009, MAULE VALLEY ($35) Clear, deep plum-red. A nose reminiscent of Bordeaux, with cassis, raspberry and lots of oak and smoke from well-toasted barrels. Medium bodied. 58 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2016
Old-world structure with new-world fruit: raspberry, cherry and blackcurrant flavours. Will improve for another couple of years at least. (RL)*
94 VIÑA HARAS DE PIRQUE ALBIS 2006, MAIPO VALLEY ($39.95)
Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Carménère. Co-production with Antinori. Simply one of the best red wines to come out of Chile. Dense ruby-purple in colour with a nose of tobacco, cedar, toast and creamy blackcurrant with dark chocolate notes. Full-bodied with a rich mouthfeel and balancing acidity. Very youthful. Comes off like a First Growth Bordeaux. (TA)
89 THE MINE RESERVE PINOT NOIR 33 2013, CENTRAL VALLEY ($21.99)
Fragrant, enticingly ripe strawberry, vanilla and cinnamon express generous new-world style. Cherry-like flavours kick in on the palate together with a splash of milk chocolate. Well structured and balanced, with deftly integrated fruit and subtle oak on the finish. (SW)
88 VILLARD L’ASEMBLAGE GRAND VIN 2009 ($18.67)
Clear deep garnet. Aromas of cherry, black liquorice, eucalyptus, pepper and prunes, all with a thin coat of old varnish. Medium-bodied with strong structure of acidity and tannins. Cherry and blueberry fruit with some medicinal and green elements. Noticeable alcohol at 14.5%. Ready to drink now. (RL)*
86 ICALMA MERLOT 2014 ($12.99) Earthy ripe plum scent with a slightly funky barnyard note that dissipates on the palate, leaving attractive ripe red cherry fruit and background blackberry. Well balanced with just enough tannic grip. Easy drinking and excellent value. (SW)
FRANCE 93 CHÂTEAU CANET 2011, AC LANGUEDOC ($14.67)
Clear deep garnet. Complex nose to be savoured: blueberry, blackberry, pepper,
cinnamon, dates and raisins. Punches above its weight with ripe cherry-fruit accented by rose petals, smoke and resin. Well balanced with soft tannins. Drink now while the fruit is still fresh. Great value. (RL)*
92 JEAN-PAUL BRUN TERRES DORÉES MOULIN-À-VENT 2013, BEAUJOLAIS ($27)
The power of Moulin-à-Vent streams through in this wine, made by Beaujolais terroir legend Jean-Paul Brun. Gracefully structured with wild raspberries and herbal rock rose aromas. Thin, grippy and firm tannins support more wild raspberry, strawberry and ample granitic minerality. Acids are precise and nimble, and the finish liberally white pepper and lingering. A beauty to drink now, but will reward with 5 more years in the cellar. (TR)
91 TORTOISE CREEK CARIGNAN 2013, IGP PAYS D’HÉRAULT ($10.08)
Clear, very dark, the colour of cherry cola. Strong nose of figs and dates; judicious wood treatment shows in vanilla and chocolate aromas. Tastes like a dry port: strongly fruity with more dates and raisins. Tannins are soft; drink now. Good value. (RL)*
90 CHÂTEAU DE FESLES LA CHAPELLE 2014, ANJOU, LOIRE VALLEY ($19.65)
Ruby with purplish rim. Typical Cabernet Franc nose of red berries, a vegetal edge plus a touch of violet. Compact and firm; dense fruity core and a very finely grained tannic backbone lead to a lifted, aromatic finish. Drink or hold 4 to 5 years. (GBQc)
90 DOMAINE MAGELLAN PEZENAS 2012, COTEAUX DU LANGUEDOC AOP ($26.99)
This Syrah/Grenache blend aged in Burgundian oak offers fine developed red fruit, elegantly integrated spice, subtle oak, fine-grained tannic structure and a long, harmonious finish. A refined and complex wine punching above its weight. (SW)
90 VINCENT GIRARDIN VIEILLES VIGNES SANTENAY 2013, BURGUNDY ($37.95)
Ruby in colour. A raspberry nose threaded with minerality and well-integrated oak. Medium-bodied and dry, elegant and beautifully balanced with enough tannin to give structure. (TA)
90 CHÂTEAU DE LAMARQUE 2010, HAUT-MÉDOC ($39.95)
Dense purple colour with a smoky-cedary nose embellished by tar and black fruit aromas. Medium-bodied and dry with well-extracted spicy blackberry and blackcurrant flavours. The tannins are ripe and mellow though the oak is evident at the moment. Will reward 2 years of cellaring. (TA)
89 CHÂTEAU SAINT-ANTOINE RÉSERVE DU CHÂTEAU 2010, BORDEAUX ($14.95)
2010 was an excellent vintage in Bordeaux and even the lesser wines show well. Deep ruby in colour, this shows a cedary, blackcurrant nose backed by spicy oak. Medium-bodied and dry, the wine is well balanced and firm. It will also reward cellaring for a few years. (TA)
89 DOMAINE DE GRAND RETOUR PLAN DE DIEU CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES 2013, RHÔNE ($14.95)
Purple-black in colour with a spicy plum. The bouquet is herb-tinged with an engaging floral note. Full-bodied and dry, you can taste that floral note above the black fruit flavours. (TA)
89 LES DAUPHINS 2013, CÔTES DU RHÔNE RÉSERVE AC ($14.99)
Warmly scented ripe raspberry and peppery spice on the nose, with raspberry and blackberry in the mouth, supported by good tannic grip and food-friendly acidity. A hearty, characterful Rhône red and great value for money. (SW)
88 CHÂTEAU DES DEMOISELLES 2010, CÔTES DE CASTILLON, BORDEAUX ($17.95)
At 14% alcohol, this wine speaks to a ripe vintage. Dense purple colour; there’s vanilla oak spice on the nose that mingles with cedar and blueberry tones. Medium-bodied and dry, it’s soft on the palate and easy drinking with a firm tannic finish. (TA)
88 GÉRARD BERTRAND SAINT CHINIAN SYRAH/MOURVÈDRE 2011, LANGUEDOC ($19)
Sandstone and schist slopes yield these Syrah and Mourvèdre vines and their perfumed, cold cream and violet aromas. Rustic and a bit chunkier, this richer red carries smoked, dried meats, dried blackberry, cassis and liquorice across ripe, ragged tannins. Pour with equally rustic dishes for best effect. (TR)
86 BARONNIE DE CANET MERLOT 2012, PAYS D’OC ($11.50)
Clear medium-deep garnet beginning to brown. Mature nose of cherry, raspberry, prune and coffee. A simple wine, tasting of cherries and stewed fruit, with ample alcohol and acidity. Drink immediately. (RL)*
ITALY 93 ORNELLAIA 2011, BOLGHERI SUPERIORE, TOSCANA ($195.25)
Very dark colour. Deep nose of ripe black berry fruits, integrated oak. Seductive on the palate, supple texture yet full bodied. Powerful yet balanced. Finishes tight and firm. Already approachable but it will improve further. (GBQc)
92 ELENA FUCCI AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE TITOLO 2009, BASILICATA ($58)
Rich plum and loads of mineral nuances. Bright acidity and full body with firm tannins balanced by an abundance of intense dark, fleshy fruit, smoke, spice and a savoury quality. Great depth. Should have the ability to age for over a decade. (GB)
92 ORNELLAIA 2012, BOLGHERI SUPERIORE, TOSCANA ($195.25)
Dark ruby. Rich, fruity nose. Deep luxurious oak with pastry notes and dried herbs (rosemary). The concentrated, well-integrated mid-palate has a feeling of roundness; tannins seem a bit dry but there is no graininess. Finish is on the same note of fullness and firmness. Aging potential of 10 years or more. (GBQc)
91 AVIGNONESI VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO 2011, TUSCANY ($40)
Vino Nobile de Montepulciano still struggles in Canada, likely because drinkers
confuse the label with the much simpler Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. This comes from the vineyards surrounding the town of Montepulciano and is primarily from Sangiovese (known locally as Prugnolo Gentile), blended with Canaiolo Nero and small amounts of other local varieties such as Mammolo. This house has been biodynamically farmed since the 2011 vintage. Deep, brooding dark cherry, black plum, ink and mulberry notes carry through to the velveteen palate. Mouth-filling ripe and concentrated fruit is well supported by firm, structured tannins. Sweet spices, medicinal black cherry and kirsch linger on the long finish. (TR)
91 MASTROBERADINO TAURASI 2008, CAMPANIA ($49)
Firm and savoury with an aroma of roses, penetrating sour cherry and juicy dark berry fruit. Smoky and spicy. Wonderful complexity and depth with firm tannins and a long fresh finish. (GB)
91 PAOLO CONTERNO BAROLO GINESTRA 2011, PIEDMONT ($65)
Focussed, balanced and expressive with an aroma of roses and pure crushed berries, sour cherry, plums and spice. Full bodied with a tight core, great concentration and depth, present but elegant tannins, and a long lifted finish. Delicious. (GB)
90 BOLLA CRESO VERONA ROSSO 2011, VENETO ($24.95)
Corvina with 35% Cabernet Sauvignon; deep ruby in colour offering a cherry nose with a spicy note. Medium bodied, dry, savoury cherry flavour tinged with liquorice; well-balanced, seamless and finishing on an earthy note. (TA)
90 ORNELLAIA LE SERRE NUOVE 2013, BOLGHERI, TOSCANA ($60)
Medium ruby. Fruity notes of raspberry and blackberry with a light oak note. Tight on the palate. A bit rough at this stage but there is a dense fruity core, promise of a positive evolution. Well balanced; the finish is firm and compact. Better wait 5 to 7 years. (GBQc)
89 CASTELLO DI GABBIANO CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA 2012, TUSCANY ($22.95)
Always great value from the realm of CCR! Ripe cherry, tomato, plum, raspMAY/JUNE 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 59
NOTED berry, tobacco and some oak spice built on a medium to full body. Nice concentration, great length and some dry tannins make for a top partner with classic Italian fare. A blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot. (ES)
89 ORNELLAIA LE VOLTE 2013, IGT TOSCANA ($29.95)
Medium ruby. Pleasant red fruit notes and a touch of oak. Medium body, nice fruity taste, soft tannins, well balanced. Nothing complicated, just a nice glass of Tuscan red, ready to drink with simple Italian dishes. (GBQc)
89 FRESCOBALDI CHIANTI RUFINA NIPOZZANO VECCHIE VITI 2012, TUSCANY ($30) Perfumed and elegant with aromas and flavours of flowers, cherries, blackberries, spice and earth. Firm, well-integrated tannins, fresh, balanced acidity and a long finish. A great match with wild boar. (GB)
89 BARONE RICASOLI CASTELLO DI BAROLIO CHIANTO CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE 2010, TUSCANY ($70)
Rich with black cherry and plum flavours. Earth and spice, graceful tannins, a firm backbone, elegant approachability and vanilla. A touch of char and mineral on the finish. Sangiovese with some Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon blended in. (GB)
88 MASI OSAR 2009, VENETO ($60)
Dark and floral with bold but round tannins, black fruit, mineral, a touch of fresh herbaciousness and nicely balanced acidity on the finish. Needs meat. Made from 100% Oseleta grapes. (GB)
87 ILLUMINATI RIPAROSSO 2014, MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO DOC ($14.99)
Deeply scented ripe plum and lightly spicy and herbal scents, with bitter cherry and plum flavours wrapped in velvety tannins on the palate. Finishes very dry, with pronounced acidity and a splash of dark chocolate. (SW) 60 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2016
87 GABBIANO CHIANTI CLASSICO 2013, TUSCANY ($16.95)
A touch jammy, the cherry, cocoa, tobacco, herbs, red flowers and forest floor aromas meet up with fresh acid and sound tannins. Very good length. Pair with lasagna or grilled sausages. (ES)
87 FEUDO MACCARI NERO D’AVOLA 2014, SICILY ($18)
Aromas and flavours of blackberries, spice and liquorice. A touch of coffee, soft tannins and a smooth, fresh finish. A nice match with tomato-based dishes. (GB)
87 LINI LAMBRUSCO ROSSO 910, EMILIA-ROMAGNA ($18)
Dry Lambrusco is gaining popularity, and with excellent reason: interesting red-berry depth and tannin to tackle food plus fresh and taut acidity to carry them. And bubbles! Here are notes of plum, blueberry and cherry compote, juicy and lively in the mouth, reigned over by cherry pit/chalky tannins. Pour with pizza and enjoy. (TR)
86 ALBOLA 2014, CHIANTI DOCG ($16.99)
Black cherry scent gives way to thickly textured bitter cherry flavour with firm tannic grip and forward acidity. A bit lean and green at the moment. Better with a bit more cellaring. (SW)
85 SARTORI VILLA MURA 2013, VERONA ROSSO IGT ($16.99/1 L)
Cherry colour reflects the warmly scented red fruit, spiced red cherry and red plum flavours that fill the mouth. Light tannins and agreeable acidity make this an uncomplicated, easily enjoyable wine. (SW)
MACEDONIA 90 POPOV VERSNIK MERLOT 2011, TIKVES ($13.95)
Unbelievable quality in this Merlot! Dense purple in colour with a blueberry and cedar nose; medium to full-bodied with a lovely mouthfeel. Well-balanced flavours of tobacco and blueberry with a firm finish. Great value. (TA)
NEW ZEALAND 91 ARCHANGEL PINOT NOIR 2010, CENTRAL OTAGO ($37.95)
Deep ruby in colour. An earthy, beetroot and raspberry nose with notes of leather. Medium bodied, dry and well balanced, the raspberry flavour sings through on lively acidity to a firm tannic finish. Will improve with a couple of years in the cellar. (TA)
PORTUGAL 88 POÇAS COROA D’OURO 2010, DOURO VALLEY ($14.95)
Ruby purplish. Fine nose of red and black berries, soft spices and a hint of dry earth. Nice fruity taste. Velvety with a good deal of freshness. Soft grip from the tannins at the back of the balanced finish. (GBQc)
85 CASA SANTOS LIMA CABRA CEGA VINHO TINTO 2013, VINHO REGIONAL LISBOA ($13.99)
A blend of Castelão, Syrah and Touriga Franca, this bargain red shows dark plummy fruit and a hint of spice on the nose with black plum, dark cherry, a splash of dark chocolate and drying tannins in the mouth. (SW)
SOUTH AFRICA 88 EXCELSIOR CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, WINE OF ORIGIN ROBERTSON ($17.99)
Intense, aromatic Cabernet varietal blackcurrant with blackberry and a pinch of cinnamon. Clove expands on the palate with sweet dark berry-fruit, good tannic structure, deft balance and well-integrated finish. (SW)
SPAIN 90 BARONIA CIMS DEL MONTSANT 2010, MONTSANT DO ($22.99) Garnacha/Cariñena. The interesting bouquet reveals fine raspberry-like fruit with elegant spice and a subtle touch of oak. Both raspberry and blackberry come
through on the palate, with notes of cinnamon and clove backed by fine-grained tannins and balanced acidity. Shows great refinement for the price. (SW)
89 ALVAREZ DE TOLEDO MENCIA ROBLE 2010, BIERZO DO ($15.99)
Offers aromatic developed blackcurrant fruit, fine clove, cinnamon spice and fresh herbal notes. Integrated black fruit flavours are supported by solid structure with good balance, finishing very dry. A polished wine from a regional grape that deserves to be better known. Drinking well now but can age further. (SW)
89 BODEGAS ORDONEZ ZERRAN MONTSANT 2011, MONTSANT ($26) Zerran Tinto is imported by and bottled for innovative Spanish importer Jorge Ordóñez, responsible for introducing many characterful and regional Spanish wines to the USA. This savoury Montsant is mostly very old-vine Garnacha and Mazuelo (aka Carignan) with a splash of Syrah. Big and concentrated, with dense black fruit, crushed stone, black flowers, kirsch, anise and cracked pepper covering a firm, muscular structure. Fantastic value for this Priorat neighbour. (TR)
88 BERONIA TEMPRANILLO ELABORACION ESPECIAL 2012, RIOJA ($15.95)
Deep ruby colour; vanilla oak predominating over jammy plum aromas with a cedary note. Medium to full bodied, dry, mouth-filling plum and cherry flavours. Finishes dry with a tannic lift on the finish. (TA)
88 JEAN LEON MERLOT PETIT VERDOT 2014 ($18.95)
Deep ruby colour, this interesting blend has a cedar, blackcurrant and plum nose; medium-bodied and dry, it offers forward, spicy blackcurrant and cranberry flavours with a lively spine of acidity. (TA)
86 BODEGAS PIQUERAS CASTILLO DE ALMANSA RESERVE 2012, ALMANSA DO ($14.99)
Shows dark plummy fruit with dry astringent notes on the nose; concentrated blackberry and black plum encased in inky tannins on the palate. Finishes very dry. Pair with rich red meat casseroles and aged cheeses. (SW)
UNITED STATES 95 PAUL HOBBS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, BECKSTOFFER DR CRANE VINEYARD, NAPA ($283)
Purplish rim. Seductive nose of fine herbs, red flowers, liquorice and ripe berries. Wisely oaked. Surprisingly fresh, velvety, powerful; the tannins are impressively tender and chewy. Finish is very long and firm. A great wine by all counts, albeit expensive. (GBQc)
92 PAUL HOBBS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2011, NAPA ($93.75) Very dark. Deep nose of black fruits; quite oaky without being excessive. Very soft, full bodied with a dense core of ripe fruit. Compact and generous in every way, it remains well balanced. Nicely done. (GBQc)
it has a honeyed plum nose. Rich, full and mouth-filling cassis, black cherry and plum flavours; beautifully balanced, lovely mouthfeel, good length and just enough tannin to give the wine structure. Fermented in oak. An amazing dessert wine. (TA)
94 ERNST BRETZ RIESLING EISWEIN 2004, RHINEHESSEN, GERMANY ($25.25/375 ML)
Clear, deep old brass. Light apple and flower bouquet gives way to honey and butterscotch. Full-bodied, viscous, tasting of peaches, ripe apples and caramel. Never-ending finish. Brilliant served with warm brie on fresh sourdough bread. Will last a long, long time. (RL)*
93 CHURCHILL’S CRUSTED PORT BOTTLED 2006, PORTUGAL ($29)
Dark ruby. Oak notes dominate over the aromas of blackberries. A real fruit bomb on the palate, this is simply delicious. Oak appears to be better balanced than the nose indicated. Hard to resist right now even if it has some future. (GBQc)
Medium-deep garnet with sediment. Nose of raisins, stewed plums and apricots. A little hot with alcohol at 19.5%, but otherwise well balanced. Fruit, including cherries, dates and strawberry jam, is still fresh-tasting. Very like a vintage port, only affordable. Ready to drink but will cellar well for a few more years. (RL)*
88 CLOUDLINE PINOT NOIR 2014, WILLAMETTE VALLEY, OREGON ($30)
93 CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES RIESLING ICEWINE PAUL BOSC ESTATE 2014, NIAGARA ($65)
91 PAUL HOBBS CROSSBARN CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, NAPA ($57.75)
Consistently the best-value Willamette Pinot Noir on our market (that actually tastes like Willamette Pinot Noir). This silken-smooth, lighter red charms with perfumed strawberry and raspberry, subtle forest and finely rasped spices. Chic in form even in the flush of youth, a gentle tug of tannins provides the structure this pretty Pinot needs. From the family at Domaine Drouhin Oregon — one that has certainly earned their Pinot Noir credibility. (TR)
DESSERT 95 CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES TOTALLY BOTRYTIS AFFECTED CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, NIAGARA ($100/375 ML)
This is the best sweet red wine I’ve tried in Canada. Bright ruby in colour,
Pale straw colour; mango, honey and red apple nose with a light mineral note and a floral top note. Spicy, honeyed peach, mango and orange flavours, rich and full on the palate; great length. (TA)
91 GONZÁLEZ BYASS NUTTY SOLERA MEDIUM OLOROSO SHERRY, SPAIN ($17)
This interesting (and affordable!) sherry was made specifically for the Canadian marketplace. It is a delight with a nose of figs, roasted nuts, sweet spice, raisin, toffee and espresso notes. It’s medium-sweet on the palate, pleasantly so, with rich and earthy flavours of dried fruits, almonds, prunes and a range of sweet spices. (RV)
91 ROCKWAY VINEYARDS VIDAL ICEWINE 2013, NIAGARA ($29.95/375 ML)
Huge peach, honey, sponge toffee, toast, MAY/JUNE 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 61
NOTED candied pear, bergamot and candied lemon are present on a concentrated frame. Vibrant acidity tidies up any heaviness, and the finale carries long. (ES)
91 PILLITTERI RESERVE VIDAL ICEWINE 2013, NIAGARA ($35/200 ML)
Pillitteri’s 2013 Vidal Icewine churns out enormous peach, honey, lychee, pineapple, candied citrus and spice flavours. Excellent extraction and weight with a crisp edge giving definition. Great length. (ES)
91 MIKE WEIR WINERY VIDAL ICEWINE 2013, NIAGARA ($49/375 ML)
Honey, candied peach, apple concentrate and sponge toffee are all present in this sticky. Excellent length with solid acidity. Pair with an apricot and almond custard tart. (ES)
90 BETWEEN THE LINES VIDAL ICEWINE 2013, NIAGARA ($39.95)
A dark golden/orange colour introduces the apple concentrate, candied pear, peaches in honey and spice. Long finish, focused with just the right amount of acidic lift. (ES)
90 FONSECA 20 YEAR OLD AGED TAWNY PORT, DOURO VALLEY, PORTUGAL ($65)
BEER BELGH BRASSE MONS BELGIANINSPIRED ABBEY BLONDE, AMOS, QUEBEC ($9.99)
Blond, hazy, unfiltered appearance with a soft, persistent head, subtle nutty malt and spicy aromas of nutmeg and cinnamon. Flavours show rich fruit and creamy malt with cinnamon, lingering spicy dried citrus and apricot fruit on the finish. A very fine, complex brew. (SW)
UNCLE LEO’S BREWERY RED ALE, LYON’S BROOK, NOVA SCOTIA ($5.61)
Reddish brown in colour with soft, fruity malt aromas and quite rich dried fruit flavours, backed by toasted chocolate malt giving dark chocolate character to the finish. A concentrated, full-flavoured brew. (SW)
BRASSERIE DE ST SYLVESTRE GAVROCHE SPECIAL TOP-FERMENTED BIÈRE SUR LIE, FLANDERS, FRANCE ($4.99/330 ML)
Slightly hazy blond appearance with nutty malt aroma and a whiff of dry astringency, shifting to surprising red cherry and smooth creamy malt flavours vaguely reminiscent of cream soda. Finishes with a pinch of cinnamon and contrasting dry bitterness. (SW)
20 years in wood casks has mellowed this fruit into a beautifully smooth, silken Port, but still one with the characteristic breadth and subtle fiery grip of Fonseca. Heady raisin pie, dried figs, walnuts, leather and peppery cinnamon spice are pulled along an undercurrent of deep butterscotch. Great length. (TR)
OAKHAM ALES BISHOP’S FAREWELL, UNITED KINGDOM ($5.49/500 ML)
90 CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES PAUL BOSC ESTATE VINEYARD RIESLING ICEWINE 2014, ST DAVID’S BENCH, ONTARIO ($65)
WYCHWOOD BREWERY GOLD HOBGOBLIN, WHITNEY, OXFORDSHIRE, UNITED KINGDOM ($3.99/500 ML)
A lighter style compared to previous vintages, but one which is still of high quality. Riesling’s natural acidity frames the sweetness quite nicely, and the flavours of peach, pear, apple compote, mineral and lime carry long. (ES) 62 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2016
Bright, straw-coloured with well-integrated fruity, hoppy and malty aromas. Medium weight on the palate with fruity malt shifting to dry hoppy bitterness on the very long finish. (SW)
Blond-coloured with forceful hoppy green herbal intensity on the nose that carries through in the mouth with lively bitter hop flavours, more subdued citrus and creamy malt in the background. Hoppy/ herbal notes linger on the palate. (SW)
ROGUE FARMS GOOD CHIT PILSENER, INDEPENDENCE, OREGON, UNITED STATES ($10.99/650 ML) Made with floor malted barley and Liberty hops, this blond beer opens with light nutty, malty and yeasty aromas, and full-flavoured citrus and malt on the palate. Finishes with characteristic West Coast style heavily hopped bitterness. (SW)
CIDER WEST AVENUE CHERRY FUNK CIDER, ONTARIO (PRICE VARIES)
This is a farmhouse-style “scrumpy” fermented with Montmorency cherry juice, made with wild and brett yeast, and left unfiltered and unpasteurized. A crazy concoction that tests your senses with a funky nose of fresh cherries, cranberries and a brett note to go with pithy apple and a touch of citrus. It starts off-dry on the palate with all those wonderful red fruits but finishes dry with a citrus and tart apple edge to it. (RV)
BULWARK HOPPED CIDER ANNAPOLIS VALLEY APPLES INFUSED WITH HOPS, NOVA SCOTIA ($5.25/500 ML) This imaginative drink delivers an aromatic combination of perfumed ripe apples and distinct green herbal hoppy aromas. It is light, crisply refreshing and very dry on the palate with pleasant tingling effervescence and lingering green hoppy notes on the finish. Makes a great pairing with steamed mussels. (SW)
SPIRITS CHANTILLY FRENCH CREAM, ONTARIO ($30)
From the Maverick Distillery in Oakville, Ont., comes this absolutely delicious liqueur made from fresh dairy cream and all natural flavours. Serve over ice and look for a nose of malted dairy cream, smoky maple and roasted nuts. It’s rich and velvety with flavours of rich cream, cocoa, vanilla, maple and toasted almonds. (RV)
HAVANA CLUB SELECCIÓN DE MAESTROS RUM, CUBA ($60)
This is a triple barrel-aged rum that’s finished in white oak barrels. It is a super-premium rum, amber in colour, that deserves to be enjoyed simply on its own in a snifter. Such a robust and spicy nose of caramel, toffee, wet tobacco, vanilla, cloves and citrus peel. It is remarkably smooth on the palate with a rich profile of spiced caramel/ toffee, dried fruits, marmalade and perfect balance through the long and complex finish. (RV)
PIKE CREEK DOUBLE BARREL CANADIAN WHISKY, ONTARIO ($39.95)
This fruity Canadian corn whisky aims to please the bourbon-drinking masses. Toffee, dark fruit and rock candy on the nose with a wine-tinged wood character that reveals itself in background whiffs of marzipan and cinnamon bark. Sweet and lengthy on the palate with a mulled fruitiness that points to time spent finishing in vintage port pipes after 10 years in first-fill white American oak. (SP)
GOODERHAM & WORTS CANADIAN WHISKY, ONTARIO ($44.90)
Recently released Gooderham & Worts is a 4-grain blend of rye, wheat, barley and corn whiskies (an unusual melange for any whisky style, let alone a Canadian expression). Orchard fruits, caramel, sweet sandalwood and tobacco on the nose with green notes like tea leaves flitting around. A silky intro followed by chest-warming rye spice; tastes like good honey on rye toast. (SP)
CROWN ROYAL NORTHERN HARVEST RYE, ONTARIO ($32.60)
The little whisky that stirred the pot after it was named Jim Murray’s 2015 World Whisky of the Year late last November was released in slightly different bottlings for American and domestic markets, according to Murray. The Canadian version is like a romp in a confectionary — bubblegum, caramel and candied strawberry with a pervasive spiciness; the nose reminds me of a Belgian tripel. Lively rye spice and smooth caramel steers the drinking experience. (SP)
LOT NO 40 SINGLE COPPER POT STILL CANADIAN WHISKY, ONTARIO ($39.95)
JP Wiser’s cleaned up at this year’s Canadian Whisky Awards, where their brawny 100% rye whisky Lot No 40 scooped the title of Canadian Whisky of the Year. Noses dark rye bread, fermented cherries and hints of banana flambé. Powerful, balanced and oily in the mouth with flavours of vanilla, black tea, wood and spice. A well-muscled rye whisky deserving of its accolades. (SP)
EAGLE RARE KENTUCKY STRAIGHT BOURBON, UNITED STATES ($49.95)
There’s lots going on in this dram (impressive for a bourbon, which can be stylistically one-dimensional). Aromas span toffee, sandalwood, leather, marmalade, mint and potpourri notes like dried roses. The palate is full and dry with elegant wood influence and a satisfying prickle; dark chocolate, orange peel, clove and allspice. One of my favourite bourbons. (SP)
STAGG JR KENTUCKY STRAIGHT BOURBON WHISKEY, UNITED STATES ($84.90)
Get past the in-your-face wood varnish (this is a bruiser of a bourbon at 66.5% ABV), and the teenage Stagg smells like chocolate pudding sprinkled with pecans and brown sugar-dusted dark fruits, post-cigarillo. Red fruit and candied peach on the palate with generous dashes of spice and a searing and smoky finale. (SP)
GEORGE T STAGG KENTUCKY STRAIGHT BOURBON, UNITED STATES ($130)
Part of the Buffalo Trace Distillery’s coveted Antique Collection, George T Stagg is super plush on the nose with deep hits of vanilla, caramel, plums and currants. Tastes equally indulgent — chocolate-covered caramel, honeyed dates, cigar box, luxury leather — with a lifted minty freshness and a long, intriguing interplay between sweet and dry. (SP)
BUFFALO TRACE KENTUCKY STRAIGHT BOURBON, UNITED STATES ($41)
Typical white-oak aromatics of vanilla and caramel mingle with orange peel
and a distinctive minty edge. Tastes like peaches dashed with cinnamon and nutmeg, and peaks in a brown sugar sweetness before fading with a dry woodiness. A great staple bourbon. (SP)
TIN CUP AMERICAN WHISKEY, DENVER, COLORADO, UNITED STATES ($39.90)
Butter tarts and bourbon on the nose along with in-your-face ethanol. Tin Cup identifies as a throwback American whiskey and drinks like an extra spicy bourbon thanks to its rye-forward mash bill. Youthful and heavy-handed with a cool package that includes (shocker) a tin cup. (SP)
LARRESSINGLE ARMAGNAC XO, FRANCE ($97.95)
Though it seems that armagnac is doomed to play a lifetime of second fiddle to its celebrity relative, cognac, I’ll openly admit that I prefer it. Larressingle’s blend of old eaux-de-vie is an experience, not a drink. Its bouquet of dark chocolate, cinnamon-baked apples, leather, raisins and dried roses will have you sniffing for a small eternity before you tilt back for a sip. Serve in a snifter or wine glass to get the best from this exquisite brandy. (SP)
EL DORADO 21 YEARS OLD, GUYANA ($109.25)
This gorgeously aged Guyanese rum is a must-try for anyone who appreciates fine spirits. A blend of mature rums (the youngest in the blend is 21 years old), it’s a spice-dusted, smoke-laced and immensely lengthy special-occasion dram; a rum that scotch lovers will appreciate. (SP)
GORDON & MACPHAIL CASK STRENGTH CAOL ILA STRENGTH MALT, ELGIN, SCOTLAND ($165.95/700 ML)
A special treat for whisky aficionados, this limited-release of cask strength 2004 Caol Ila bottled by esteemed Scottish whisky merchants Gordon & MacPhail pushes the boundaries of deliciousness. A boisterous sherried nose of ripe pear, lemon oil and sweet, smoky hay is followed by a series of flavour waves. You couldn’t shut this 61.4% ABV whisky up even if you tried, but you can tame it with a splash of water. (SP) MAY/JUNE 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 63
DAVINE BY GURVINDER BHATIA
ALMOST FORGOTTEN Think of Italy and, without question, Tuscany is this country’s most globally recognized region. Michelangelo’s David, the birthplace of the Renaissance, the Medici (all associated with the city of Florence), the Palio horse race in Siena, the leaning tower of Pisa, rolling hills, country villas and, of course, the food are all at the forefront for tourists, gourmands, history buffs and art lovers. The wines of Tuscany are also some of Italy’s most recognized. Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti, Carmignano and the ever-sought-after Super Tuscans (for which there is no real definition) find themselves on dinner tables and in the cellars of casual wine drinkers to threestar Michelin restaurants worldwide. But two of Tuscany’s most historic wines are also often overlooked. Vernaccia di San Gimignano was Italy’s first wine to achieve DOC status, and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano was the first to have a DOCG sticker placed on its bottles. At recent tastings of the releases of the 2015 Vernaccia di San Gimignano and 2013 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, I had the opportunity to rediscover the wines and 64 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2016
realize that perhaps it’s time for consumers and restaurateurs to take another look to ensure that these wines have a place on their dinner tables and wine lists.
VERNACCIA DI SAN GIMIGNANO DOCG
The notoriety of Vernaccia di San Gimignano dates back centuries as it appeared on the tables of royalty and nobility throughout Europe. In 1966, the wine was the first (red or white) to receive DOC status (it received DOCG status in 1993). The main grape used to make the wine is also known as Vernaccia di San Gimignano (one of a number of grapes that are part of the Vernaccia group) with
a minimum requirement of 85 percent and up to 15 percent other non-aromatic white grapes. The wine must be aged for a minimum of 11 months in stainless steel or wood with an additional 3 months of bottle age required before release. The production zone is surrounding the municipality of San Gimignano, one of Italy’s most striking medieval towns, in the northwest part of the province of Siena. The area possesses a Mediterranean climate of warm, dry summers and moderate winters with vineyards located on the neighbouring hills on well-draining sandy soils at elevations of 200 to 400 metres. There are 170 producers in the zone, of which only 70 bottle and sell wine under their own label.
The typical characteristics of the wine tend to be a pale straw yellow colour, subtle fruity and/or floral aromas, mineral and savoury qualities. Of course, vineyard site, vineyard management and winemaking technique will all have an effect on the taste of the resulting wine. The best wines, I found, were subtly fresh and crisp with a lovely minerality, slightly weighty mid-palate, a savoury quality and often a hint of blanched almond. The wine can handle a judicious and light-handed use of oak, but most of the Riservas seemed to be trying to be too important with an over-abundant oaky character. Excessively Sauvignon-like wines also seemed to lose some of the grape and region’s typicity. Producers whose wines stood out for the relatively warm 2015 vintage include Casa alle Vacche, Cesani, Casale Falchini, Fontaleoni, Il Palagione, La Lastra, Mormoraia, Palagetto, Panizzi, Rampa di Fugnano, Signano, Tenute Guicciardini Strozzi and Teruzzi & Puthod.
VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO DOCG
The first Italian wine to receive the DOCG in 1980, the name Vino Nobile di Montepulciano dates back to 1787, but viticulture in the region dates back to Etruscan times. The town of Montepulciano even possesses centuries-old cellars in the town centre. The vineyards of the region range from 250 to 600 metres above sea level with soils mostly consisting of sand and sandy clay. The wines must contain a minimum of 70 percent Prugnolo Gentile (as Sangiovese is known locally)
with a maximum of 30 percent other grapes authorized by the region. The wines have historically contained a small percentage of the Mammolo grape in the blend, providing a lovely perfumed character to the wines. The use of Mammolo has been in the decline as the grape oxidizes easily, although there were several of the 2013 wines tasted that did contain a small amount of this indigenous grape. Other native grapes commonly used include Canaiolo and Colorino. There are many producers using Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, which can take away from the typical character of the wines, particularly with Cabernet, which tends to dominate Sangiovese. Typical characteristics tend to be cherry and plum flavours, dried floral aromas, spice and vanilla with firm tannins and high acidity resulting in wines that tend to have good ageability. The 2013 vintage was cool and wet during the growing season, resulting in a slightly later harvest, but according to many producers, a warm September allowed good ripeness. In general, I found the wines to be quite elegant and drinkable with fresh acidity, particularly those with minimal oak influence (the wines must be aged for a minimum of 2 years, of which 1 must be in oak). Producers whose wines stood out during the tasting of the 2013 vintage included Avignonesi, Boscarelli, Triacca, Casale Daviddi, Dei, Icario, Il Macchione, Lombardo, Le Bertille, La Ciarliana (although a touch heavy handed with oak), Lunadoro, Antico Colle, Montemercurio, Poliziano and Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta. ×
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AFTER TASTE BY TONY ASPLER
EMPEROR HAS NO WINE MAYBE IT’S BECAUSE I’M GETTING OLDER.
Maybe it’s because I’m becoming less patient as the years go by. Or maybe it’s because the Emperor really has no wine. This is all a prelude to confessing that I no longer have the time or the energy for all the Jesuitical debate over the finer points of wine and food pairing. When I would go out to dine, I used to pore over the wine list before I looked at the menu; and once I had selected the wine, I’d engage the sommelier in a Socratic exchange as to the best match for the dish I had finally chosen — much to the irritation of my wife Deborah, who would attack the bread basket to quell her hunger pangs as the discussion reached the half-hour mark. OK, so I exaggerate, but the point is that wine had become too serious a pursuit. Looking back, I was en route to becoming a wine bore. (There should be a phone number you can call if and when you become self-aware of this syndrome; something like Windbags Anonymous.) By deconstructing the recipe for, say, osso buco and then trying to find a wine that would marry perfectly with its combination of veal shanks, onion, carrots, garlic, veal stock, tomatoes, fresh thyme, fresh rosemary, bay leaf, grated fresh horseradish, grated lemon zest and flat-leaf parsley, you’re wasting time that you could use to be having fun (like talking to your spouse/partner/friend over the dinner table.) This obsession with finding the perfect wine match is rather like deconstructing the rainbow colour by colour to understand how beautiful it is. In the words of that great 20th century philosopher, Paul McCartney, “Let It Be.” In short, let’s bring the fun back to wine and stop with the tendentious food-and-wine mantras. The Europeans have the right idea. Order the food; order the wine you like to drink. But then the wine regions of Europe generally offer the wines that they make locally — wines that naturally match the food that’s grown locally. What, for instance, could be a more perfect match for tomato-based pastas than the Sangiovese grape of Tuscany or the Nebbiolo of Piemonte? No need for discussions. In Portugal, where the per-capita consumption of cod is 30 kilos per year, they invariably will plonk a bottle of red wine down on the table. And it works even if the cod is covered with mussels. 66 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2016
Trust me when I say that Dionysus will not descend on a cloud and smite you with a vine stalk if you’re caught drinking red wine with fish. A red wine with high acidity works well with most fish. If you want to accentuate the acidity in a red wine, chill it down. A chilled Beaujolais or a chilled Valpolicella will go nicely with grilled salmon. The concept of a seven-course tasting menu with a sommelier-selected glass of wine with each dish is a recipe for disaster — on many levels. First, your palate is assaulted by a multitude of flavours so that you get sensory overload and if — as was the case when my wife and I visited a friend’s restaurant in New York City — they leave each bottle on the table, you roll out of the place hoping you can still find your hotel key, let alone a taxi. Full disclosure: like most right-minded people, my wife and I have a bottle of wine with dinner every night. I don’t worry about grape varietals any longer; I just ask her what would she prefer, white or red? And in summer, I add rosé. I pour it; we drink it and enjoy life. Why, you may ask, do we have a bottle of wine every night? The pH of wine is similar to the pH of our stomach acid. Wine aids digestion. Quod Erat Demonstrandum. × ILLUSTRATION: FRANCESCO GALLÉ, WWW.FRANCESCOGALLE.COM
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