APR 2019 ISS 122 ÂŁ7.99
x
*Size ranges vary per pattern
The Bee is back! p54
Spring is here... This month I’ve been inspired by professional organiser Marie Kondo’s new Netlix series, which encourages you to only keep things that spark joy. Can you imagine walking into your sewing room and being surrounded by your favourite fabrics and trims with not an ounce of clutter in sight? Bliss! To give you a helping hand, you’ll ind top tips and savvy storage solutions, including how to fold your fabrics ‘KonMari’ style on page 58. Speaking of great TV, who’s been watching The Great British Sewing Bee? We’ve been glued the minute it popped up on our screen, and we were delighted to grab ive with this year’s class of 2019 on page 54. We certainly don’t envy Patrick and Esme having to narrow down this talented bunch each week! If the Bee has inspired you to take to the machine, you’ll ind your usual dose of spring-fresh patterns from page 9, too. Simplicity 8137 ofers a mix ‘n’ match set with wrap dresses, tops and trousers, and you can embrace the of-theshoulder trend with New Look 6542. Complete your capsule collection with Fiona Hesford’s pocket dress on page 23, a ivestep sheer slip-on (p26), plus a jersey t-shirt dress with a fun nautical vibe (p34). Finally, we couldn’t forget our favourite excuse for a chocfest, Easter! Whether you’re celebrating with little ones or treating friends and family, there’s fabulous vintage-inspired projects to sew, including our mascot Bertie the Bunny, egg cosies topped of with perky ears and pom-pom tails (p71), plus a patchwork appliqué cushion that’s sure to be brought out year after year (p68).
$
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SEW MAGAZINE 03
Get in touch!
MERMAID SKIRT on page 42
Inside your April issue... 42
54 In Every Issue
The Bee is back on BBC2!
49
03 Welcome Come and say hello!
Delve into the world of Christian Dior
06 Who, what, wear What’s trending in the sewing world
15 Sew social You’ve been sharing your makes
46 The wishlist The team's round-up for April
78 Stitch & learn Our top workshop picks
85 The books we’re loving
61
Gifts 42 Little mermaid
The latest must-reads
Take a Break
86 Your sewing guide
The jargon explained!
89 Next month Our May issue's out on 4th April
49 Christian Dior Delve into the world of this renowned designer
54 Great British Sewing Bee We chat to the contestants!
58 Spring cleaning Bring joy back to your sewing room
Make Susie Johns' embroidered skirt
61 Sewing case Keep your odds 'n' ends tucked away
62 Thread catcher Fashion a tool to hide loose ends
63 Garment carrier Spruce up your skillset with this make
SEW MAGAZINE 04
75 Why it pays to join in
73 Stitch Bertie the bunny
Get involved in the sewing community
90 Style story: Savile Row Read about the top tailoring spot with a 007 twist
68
Create a cute rabbit cushion
68 Rabbit cushion
Home 66 Stuart Hillard Pop the champagne, our columnist is celebrating!
Invite spring into your home with this pillow
70 Confessions of a sewing addict Behind the scenes at The Crafts Channel
30
Packed Pages of Fashion, Garments & More!
23
23 Dolores tunic Stitch a practical stripy dress
26 Kaitlin top
2
PATTERNS INSIDE!
Use your gifts to sew a capsule collection
13
Look a million dollars easily!
28 Sewing SOS Our experts' top tips for facing and interfacing
30 Debbie Shore's show and tell Make your own bias binding
72
32 Indie pattern news Don't miss out on these picks
72 Appliqué tote bag Transport your fabric in style!
72 Egg cosies A breakfast table essential
73 Rabbit bunting Celebrate Easter with this fun project
73 Bertie the Bunny Our mascot was lovingly named by a Sew reader
72
10 Feminine dresses, trousers and tops
Use your pattern to make a capsule wardrobe
13 Off-the-shoulder tops and dresses Effortlessly transition from day to night
20 Dressmaking fabric We're going dotty for this timeless print!
22 Sewing with Tilly Discover pattern drafting picks
Get your hands on a FREE* mini steam iron, plus the chance to WIN a Brother A16 machine worth £299
84 Reader offer Buy two get one FREE on sewing books, and receive NINE patterns Feeling lucky? Enter to win £1,400+ of fantastic prizes
36 Lauren Guthrie Our columnist chats Sewing Bee secrets
38 Mabel top Sew a figureflattering garment
40 Fashion forecast Floral fabric to add a spring to your step
44 Love your machine Invest in top-quality Pfaff machines
26
82 25% OFF* Crafter's Companion Fill up your stash and save some cash!
ON THE COVER...
83 25% OFF* Clothkits Bag yourself a bargain on fabric from Clothkits
SEW MAGAZINE 05
82 WIN! Giveaways
Set sail with this casual frock
34
Freebies & Offers 52 Subscriptions
34 Connie dress
tiny tots
Hop into Spring The Craft Cotton Company has released a brand-new range of fabrics inspired by Dick Bruna’s iconic bunny! The two collections, called Mify Bedtime and Mify Spring, will feature a fresh palette of pinks, blues, reds, greens and greys. These 100% cotton fabrics are ideal for whipping up an array of makes for your little ones this spring. £7 per fat quarter, craftcotton.com
Feeling inspired to sew for your little ones with the upcoming arrival of the royal baby? Start with Julia Claridge's pretty pattern, Lillia Rae. This sweet design is suitable for children from three months to ten years old, and can be made into a dress or tunic top that features cute lutter sleeves and an elasticated neckline. Its loose it means that your youngsters are free to play all day in comfort, too. bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk
WHO WHAT The sewing world is a hub of
SEW MAGAZINE 06
wrap & go frock The Melilot Johanne dress is a classic, feminine wrap-around which can be made in a wide variety of materials, from silks and viscose to cotton and linen. You’ll also be able to choose whether you want a wrap closure with buttons or a faux-wrap with a zipper. With this PDF pattern, you’ll be prepped for the sunshine in no time at all! £15, thefoldline.com
sew charming You’ll be looking sharp with Tatty Devine’s crafty creation! This gorgeous make has been made in collaboration with the Design Museum, and showcases a laser-cut, glossy jet and cream coloured sewing machine necklace with delicate gold details. It’s the perfect gift for any sewing enthusiast, or if you can’t bear to part with it then just keep it for yourself… we promise we won’t tell! £75, tattydevine.com
bright & bold Make a statement with your next project by using the new Monsoon fabric collection. This exotic range features vibrant pinks, blues and greens, along with loral, paisley and tropical bird designs. These easy-sew materials are great for all kinds of projects, from homeware to dressmaking alike. Visit makoweruk.com for stockists.
new season, new fabrics
If you buy one pattern...
We’re absolutely besotted with STOFF & STIL’s gorgeous spring/summer range! The collection welcomes new colours, including caramel brown and dusty pink, along with regal gold hues which are mixed with statement colours such as sunshine yellow and cobalt blue for a contemporary look. The fabrics also draw on tropical themes, with palm trees, bold lorals and exotic animals. stofstil.co.uk
The Very Easy Vogue Misses panelled dress efortlessly blends comfort and style with its itted bust and forward shoulder seams. This casual number can also be made with a range of sleeve styles, including capped and above the elbow, plus you’ll have the chance to practise inserting an invisible back zip. £13.75, sewdirect.com
Dress, £105, bettybarclay.com
WEAR &
excitement – keep up! sew with Patrick! One of your favourite sewing brands, Singer has a treat in store for you! If you purchase one of its machines between now and 31st May, you’ll be entered into a prize draw which will give you the chance to win a place at an exclusive stitching class with Sewing Bee star, Patrick Grant! singerco .co.uk/patrick
dates for your diary
See what’s on sewmag.co.uk/blog GBSB 2019 Episode Guide
Are you an art lover? Head along to Tate Modern from now until 9th June to see the exhibition on pioneering artist, Dorothea Tanning. Her work centres around surrealism, and the display will bring together 100 pieces of her art from across the globe, including everything from enigmatic paintings to textile sculptures. tate.org.uk
The Sewing Bee is inally back – and we've been relishing every minute of it! To stay up to date with all of the latest news, episode summaries, and interviews with the contestants, check out our guide.
From 2nd March until 28th April, the New Lanark World Heritage Site will pay homage to the courage and achievement of migrants across the centuries with the Scottish Diaspora Tapestry exhibition. Not only will you see 305 embroidered panels dedicated to this theme, but you'll also be able to go along to drop-in sewing sessions over the course of the exhibition. newlanark.org
Which Dress is Perfect for You?
GBSB Craftalong Makes
With the Bee back on our screens, it's time to take control of our Tuesday evenings by relaxing with a hot cuppa, then making a start on Sew's round-up of craftalong projects!
SEW MAGAZINE 07
From now until 14th July, take the opportunity to relive the history of one of the most iconic names in the fashion world at the Christian Dior Victoria & Albert Museum exhibition. The showcase explores the enduring inluence of the fashion house throughout the 20th century, as well as Dior's relationship with Britain which inspired his most celebrated designs. vam.ac.uk
To make picking your next gown a little easier, Sew has put together a short quiz to ind out which dress is right for you – we’ll even suggest the material to use and the occasion to wear it!
THIS MONTH’S PATTERNS
In association with
7 Stylish
A-series
Kit out your wardrobe with SIMPLICITY 8137 and NEW LOOK 6542, which ofer simple tops and dresses, plus smart straight-leg trousers
Looks to Sew
What’s your Size?
PATTERNS & PLAIDS
For any of the Simplicity 8137 garments, you have the option to use a lightweight silky fabric like crepe or satin. If you do choose to create a design in these slippery materials, then make sure you use pattern weights to hold it in place and a rotary cutter with a fresh blade so that the pieces are cut out accurately. If you don’t own a rotary cutter, then try using micro-serrated shears instead.
If your chosen fabric has stripes, plaids or any other one-way designs, then don’t forget to pattern match. If the design is a large-scale print, then it’s best to buy some extra fabric to cater for this. Another top tip is to match up the most visible seams irst; align the centre front pattern pieces and ensure that the design you want to feature on the front sits in the right position.
SEW MAGAZINE 09
Remember to use your body measurements to ind your pattern size, NOT the ready-to-wear size that you’d buy in high street shops. Visit sewdirect.com to ind out more about taking accurate measurements and getting the right it for your shape.
SLIPPERY SILKS
4
Chic Staples
WITH SIMPLICITY 8137
Make four gorgeous garments, including peplum-style tops, straight-leg trousers, capped sleeve dresses and loaty frocks. Options A, B and C all feature igure-lattering wrap designs, giving you the opportunity to practise creating side ties which cinch in the waist.
PLEAT PERFECT When it comes to sewing pleats, pinning is essential. To keep them secure, we recommend that you put one pin on each side of the centre of the pleats. However, if the pleats are larger than 7cm, then you may need to use more than one pin on either side to ensure they remain in place when sewing.
EASY WEAR STYLE
REGAL SEAMS
We used Essex Yarn Dyed Linen Water with Silver Metallic, £14 per metre, sewhot.co.uk
If you’re sewing designs A, B or C, then you’ll need to sew princess seams onto the bodice. Princess seams can be a little tricky to stitch as they can easily become puckered rather than lattering and smooth. To prevent this, start by ensuring that they don’t stretch out of shape by staystitching them and clipping the centre seam allowances.
SHAPE SMART
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This pattern comes in sizes 10 to 18, so if your size isn’t within these parameters then remember to do any grading up or down before you start cutting out the pattern pieces. Doing this irst means that you can avoid any unnecessary itting adjustments during the construction of your garment.
Try Floral Chambray Denim Fabric, £9.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com
Hemline Sew On Metal Press Snap Fasteners in Gold, £1.59, minervacrafts.com
In association with
A-series
your Style
SELECTOR STYLE A SPRING STAPLE Create design A in a chambray fabric for an outit which channels both comfort and casual style.
“rock an evening look with style c in a metallic linen”
STYLE B ELEGANT STYLE Option B combines a lattering wrap bodice with a loaty knee-length skirt which is perfect for transitioning from day to night.
This peplum-style wrap top cinches in at the waist to provide you with a gorgeous, igure-lattering ensemble.
STYLE D SMART & SIMPLE
StyleC Our dressmaker chose to create style C to showcase the unique hem on this gorgeous wrap top.
SEW MAGAZINE 11
Sport these sophisticated straightleg trousers in an easy breezy linen for an efortlessly stylish outit.
Why we made
Jeans, £7.99, tkmaxx.com; necklace, £17.50, marksandspencer.com
STYLE C SHAPE UP
3
Bardot Styles
WITH NEW LOOK 6542 Kick-start the season with simple staples for your wardrobe! The New Look 6542 pattern features two three-quarter length Bardot-style tops and a lared sleeve dress. If you’re not comfortable without straps, then you can add them or fasten the top with a simple bow tie around the neck.
SEW MAGAZINE 12
SEW A SPRING STAPLE
gingham goes with everything!
In association with the
A-series
your Style
SELECTOR STYLE A FLATTERING FROCK Sport ultimate style with this comfy, loose-itting dress which has an elasticated Bardot top, a halter neck tie and lared sleeves.
STYLE B COMFY & CHIC Design B is perfect for those who prefer to have straps. It also features a relaxed-it and stylish tie sleeves.
STYLE C STRAPLESS STYLE For sun worshippers who want to avoid those pesky strap marks, this number is for you! The stylish top is similar to version B, minus the thick straps.
StyleB Our dressmaker wanted to show of the delicate bow tie cufs and the strappy Bardot style.
SEW MAGAZINE 13
“go strappy, strapless or add a sweet necktie to this classic top”
Why we made
A-series
Dream MACHINES
make with simplicity 8137
Pick your NEEDLE
Prep your PATTERN
We’ve made this strappy Bardot top in a gingham cotton fabric. It’s a soft, medium-weight material which means that a size 70 to 90 needle is ideal for this fabric.
When the pattern pieces have been folded up in the envelope for a while, there’s inevitably going to be creases in the paper. So, a top tip to remember prior to pinning the pieces to the fabric is to press tissue paper on them with a warm iron irst.
Prym Premium Universal Sewing Machine Needles size 70 to 100, £2.49 for ive, minerva crafts.com
Finishing OFF Cotton and linen fabrics are prone to fraying at the edges, so you’ll need to make sure you neaten all of the seam allowances, hems and facings. The best methods for doing so is to use either zig zag stitch or overlock the raw edges.
Choose a THREAD
We used Check Cored Gingham Dress Fabric in Navy Blue, £3.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com
If, like our dressmaker, you’d like to make this garment in gingham, or you want to try another cotton-based fabric such as chambray, then a lightweight cotton or polyester all-purpose thread is the perfect choice. We used Mettler Seralon Universal General Purpose thread in Black and White. For stockists, visit amannmettler.com
SEW MAGAZINE 14
£449
INNOV-IS A80
With 80 built-in stitches and eight automatic one-step buttonholes, the Innov-is A80 machine is ideal for a whole host of projects. The model also gives you the freedom to sew whenever and wherever you want, as it comes with a lightweight hard case .
SUITS-ALL SEWERS INNOV-IS 1100
£749
With its large 8.3in work space, selection of 140 built-in stitches and ten automatic onestep buttonholes, the Innov-is 1100 is ideal for beginner and experienced dressmakers alike. The machine also ofers ive lettering styles in uppercase, and the ability to combine and memorise new stitches.
Visit brothersewing.co.uk SIZES 6-24 (US)
SIZES 6-18 (US)
Floral Viscose Challis Fabric Yellow & Blue, £4.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com
Next month’s 2 BONUS patterns
Fit & FLARE For the loose-itting dress on this pattern, you’ll need to gather the lared sleeves. To do so, remember that when gathering the stitch length should be the longest it can go and you must only pull on the top or bottom threads, never both at the same time as this will cause an uneven gather.
In association with the
choose a lightweight breathable fabric
ALL-ROUND SEWING
Gingham Check Cotton Seersucker Dress Fabric in Coral, £6.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com
WOW! 7 SUMMER LOOKS Next month’s patterns give you seven beautiful dresses and tops to stitch.
l a i c o S This April, the flowers are blooming, new life is springing, and our readers’ makes are cracking as always! Our six-month-old cocker spaniel Maggie has a wardrobe brimming with bandanas!
Kath Harris
I made these underwaterthemed pyjama bottoms for my son!
Angeline Murphy
He looks like he’s having a whale of a time!
I’ve finally got round to sewing my first-ever coat, the Closet Case Patterns’ Kelly anorak. It definitely stretched my sewing skills and I love wearing it!
Lorna Hulme
We welcomed a new kitten into our family this Christmas, and I made this for the breeder’s daughter.
Robyn Nicoll
That’s beautiful, Robyn!
This is the Saraste dress from Laura and Saara Huhta’s Breaking the Pattern book.
Rebekah Cunningham
CHOSEN BY YOU
p73 Say Hello to Bertie!
“With his bright button eyes and inquisitive face, he just looked like a Bertie!” Laura Innes, Sew reader Help us to choose a name for next month’s mascot at facebook.com/sewhq
Laura has won a set of Aeroil sew-all threads from madeira.co.uk
leaf Continued over
SEW MAGAZINE 15
Find this bunny on
Each month on Facebook, we ask you to help us choose a name for our issue’s mascot.
Sponsored by Minerva Crafts
Social
www.minervacrafts.com
Write in andWIN!
I secretly stitched this Christmas suit for my husband.
I made this beautiful 1960s-inspired tiger print coat, a Simplicity 1284 pattern, and I created a matching handbag to go with it. All of my friends have said how glamorous and classy it looks!
I want to share my irst make of 2019 with you! It’s sewn using two fabrics from Makower’s Kimono range, and I’m going to use it at my friend’s birthday next week.
Laura Dickson
Susan Emmerson
Claire Jones I created this dress for my work’s Christmas do – I’m still inding sequins everywhere even now!
Carmen West
We’re sure you were the belle of the ball, Carmen!
This is my new go-to winter coat! I made it using the McCall’s 5060 pattern and a blue Melton wool from my favourite Canadian store, Fabricville.
A collection of costumes I created for 2018’s pantomime shows!
Ally Sykes
Chantal Lapointe
WOW! You must have had a super busy season, Ally.
SEW MAGAZINE 16
on the sew blog...
The much-anticipated GBSB is inally back, and Sew is recapping each episode every week!
Take our quiz to discover which dress suits your style!
Craftalong to your favourite stitchy show, The Great British Sewing Bee
Read all of the latest stitchy news and more at sewmag.co.uk/blog
This month our Star Letter winner will receive a bumper selection of fabrics from Minerva Crafts, worth £50. minervacrafts.com
stitch&share Share your latest stitchy triumphs with Sew!
HHHH HH
GAME, SET, PATCH
H
I inished my patchwork quilt today!
sew
Stephanie, Facebook
STAR letter
H
WOW WEAR Just look at the lining of my new coat!
Sandra Lee
HIS & HERS
STITCHER & PROUD
This is my all-time favourite make. I stitched the dress for a vintage car show and made my husband a matching tie; the pattern was a free download from Burda and I’ve whipped-up four variations of it over the last few years – one was repurposed from a pair of curtains I found in a charity shop!
I’m experimenting with free motion embroidery.
Lorna Hulme
Carol Anne Scrimshaw
I’m thrilled with how this frock has turned out! It’s the Tilly and the Buttons Cleo dress stitched in Seasalt needlecord fabric.
Emma Rountree
WILD ONE I made an elephant doorstop for a friend who loves to travel.
Kimberley Lucas
DITSY FLORALS
This bride and groom keepsake duo was hard to make, but the lovely couple appreciated them so much!
This zip-up bag is big enough to it all of my cosmetics.
Samantha Currie
Share your makes via social media @sewhq or email to editorial@sewmag.co.uk
SEW MAGAZINE 17
Maxine Hall
WOW! 4 WITH YOUR
Bonus Looks
EXCLUSIVE PATTERNS
From pocket-perfect dresses to sheer handkerchief tops, we guarantee that this month's collection we'll have you leaping out of bed to slip on your new favourite creations! Mabel Wrap Top, p38
Dolores Tunic Dress, p23
Kaitlin Floral Slip-on, p26
$ TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD
TILLY WALNES
gives us the low-down on pattern drafting
connie T-shirt Frock, p34
sizes 8-20*. To ind your inished garment measurements, simply turn to p87!
*excludes covermounted gifts
FIONA HESFORD
unveils her latest jersey masterclass
SUSIE JOHNS
DEBBIE SHORE
shares her embroidery creation for little ones!
brings her expertise to sewing bias binding
SEW MAGAZINE 19
EXPERTS ON CALL
sewmag.co.uk/templates
All of the patterns you need to get started are available to download at sewmag.co.uk. Simply register or log-in to get started!
OUR PATTERN PROMISE All of our patterns are available in
Militia ditsy spot, £13 per metre, sewcreative.org.uk
m Lar et ge re s , s po ew t p cr ink ea , £ tiv 12 e. pe or r g.u k Large sp ot blue sewcre , £12 per met ative.or re, g.uk
going polka dotty
Cloth polka dot buttons, 45p each, raystitch.co.uk
1950s NOSTALGIA GETS A MODERN-DAY TWIST Our love for dotty designs began in 1926 when Disney introduced Minnie Mouse clad in a red polka dot frock and matching bow. Later, Christian Dior released his New Look collection full of hourglass silhouettes and itted blazers, many of which were bedecked with this timeless print – it soon swept the nation, being donned by the likes of ifties screen icons, Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe!
g.uk tton, ot co ative.or llic sp re Meta re, sewc met per
Lucia Top, £9, sew overit.co.uk
SEW MAGAZINE 20
Mathilde blouse, £11.50, tillyand thebuttons.com
D
ot
ty k se nit f w ab cr ric ea , £ tiv 14 e. p or er g.u m k et
re ,
Satin ribbon, £3.10 for 5m, sewessential.co.uk
Pink embroider y sci sso £4.96, sewessentia rs, l.co.uk
£13
Aria ponte midi dress, £110, boden.co.uk
Sewing with
tilly
"DISCOVER my TOP PATTERN DRAFTING PICKS" Tracing sewing patterns is one of those steps that seems easy but can actually be quite tricky. So, whether you're hand-drafting a pattern from scratch, tracing an existing one or making alterations, it's convenient to keep a stash of tools to hand to help you do the job. Tilly has shared six of her favourites...
1
2
If you place a piece of paper underneath your pattern and run this sharp tracing wheel over the lines then it will make indentations onto the paper below, allowing you to pencil in the markings.
3
4
5
6
SEW MAGAZINE 22
A PatternMaster is a tool that is used as a straight and curved ruler, a set square for drawing angles and squaring of corners, and a marker for parallel lines. You can buy them in metric and imperial measurements.
Former Sewing Bee contestant Tilly Walnes provides her expert advice. For patterns, workshops and more from Tilly, pay a visit to tillyandthebuttons.com
It sounds obvious, but having plain tracing paper is a must for pattern drafting! Almost any type will do the job, including tracing, lipchart and baking paper, just make sure that the one you choose is translucent and won't slide.
For drawing askew lines, it's worth investing in a curve ruler. The tool is useful for marking armholes and bending seams and necklines as you can produce various shapes and depths, plus it includes measurement lines.
A cutting mat will cushion your work surface against deep grooves, pencil lines, scissor scratches and more, so it's a good idea to get as large a mat as possible! You can buy surface protector variations that self-heal, rotate and include metric lines, too.
Like the name implies, spot and cross paper has these symbols on it at regular intervals and at right angles, which makes drawing on straight and bias grains, marking right angles and calculating measurements simple.
DRESSMAKING YOU WILL LEARN: 3 Stitching with jersey 3 Creating side pockets 3 Attaching facings
Fiona Hesford’s
master
class
Meet the simple-sew
Dolores Tunic ¥¥ Looking for an outit which combines comfort and style? Search no further than Fiona Hesford’s Dolores tunic! This garment ofers combined sleeve and body pattern pieces, large topstitched side pockets and a casual it. With this project, you’ll not only be able to add a new go-to staple to your closet, but you’ll also have the chance to master stitching with stretch jersey, too.
top tips sewmag.co.uk/templates to 3 Visit download and print the pattern, then transfer any markings onto the fabric. cutting a stripy fabric, 3 Ifthenyou’reensure the stripes are running horizontally for each pattern piece.
doesn’t fray, but you can overlock them if you prefer. needle in a size 80 is best 3 Aforjersey this project.
SEW MAGAZINE 23
don’t have to worry too much 3 You about inishing of the edges as jersey
Get started Essentials Double jersey or terry back jersey fabric, 2.2m (150cm)
Sizes
Stitch a Jersey Dress Sewing the pockets
8-20
Cutting guide Front: cut one on the fold Front neck facing: cut one Back: cut two Back neck facing: cut one Cuf: cut two on the fold Pocket: cut four
1
1cm seam allowance used throughout, unless otherwise stated.
Layout plan 5
Sew the back pieces together, right sides facing, and press. Pin one pocket, right sides together, at each side edge on the front, aligning the straight edges with the pocket position markers. Repeat for the back piece.
2
Press the pocket away from the body of the garment, then press the seam allowance towards the pocket. Topstitch the right side, then repeat this process for all of the pocket pieces on the front and back.
3
Finish of the raw edge shoulder seams on the front and back pieces, then stitch the front to the back at the shoulder seams. Press the seam allowance open and topstitch on either side of the seam.
Stitching the neck facing
1
3
6
2
4
Sew the neck facing pieces, right sides together, at the short sides to make a ring shape, then press the seam allowance open. Finish of the outer raw edge of the facing only.
4
6
Pin the facing to the neckband, right sides together, and align the side cross seams. Next, handtack and sew all around while making sure you nick the curved seam allowances.
5
6
8
9
Press the facing upwards, then over to the wrong side. Pin, tack in position, then stitch the front to the back at the side edges and all around the pocket, right sides together, then press.
Making the cufs
SEW MAGAZINE 24
“Nick the pocket positions on the front and back, 5mm into the seam allowance�
7
Press the cuf piece in half, matching the short side with right sides together. Pin, sew, then press the seam open. Fold the cuf in half, aligning the raw long edges with wrong sides together.
Finish the raw edge, then pin the wrong side of the raw edge cuf to the right side of the sleeve at the cuf edge. Sew, then fold the cuf back by approximately 3cm. Repeat for the other cuf.
Make a single fold hem at the lower edge, then pin the pocket to the front right side. Topstitch on the wrong side following the previous stitch line, then again 4cm from the neck edge.
Tel us how you made yours... We would love to hear how you got on with your jersey dress! Send us a picture at editorial@sewmag.co.uk
DRESSMAKING
Core Skill topstitching
$ TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD sewmag.co.uk/templates
IN SIZES 8-20
Topstitching is a line of machine sewing which is worked on the right side of a garment. It’s often used on edges, such as necklines and hems, plus it keeps facings in place and creates a crisp edge. A functional topstitch is sewn using a slightly longer straight stitch and matching thread. For a decorative efect, try a contrasting coloured thread.
Pretty in Pinstripes You can’t go wrong with a classic pinstripe dress! This heavyweight Marine Stripe Cotton Jersey in Navy is incredibly soft and comfortable to wear. £12 per metre, thesewingcafe.co.uk
SEW MAGAZINE 25
Bag, £55; shoes, £25, marksandspencer.com
fabric shopper
Say ‘hello’ to your new showstopper, the
Kaitlin Top Do you want to look a million dollars without spending hours at the sewing machine? Then give Amanda Walker’s drop hem blouse a whirl! This sheer number is the ultimate statement garment to wear to an upcoming event and, best of all, it can be put together in just ive simple steps which will have you adding bias binding, honing your overlocking skills and sewing with delicate fabric.
Get started Essentials Fabric, 1.8m (150cm)
Sizes 8-20
Cutting guide Front: cut one on the fold Back: cut one on the fold Cufs: cut one pair on the fold Neckline binding: cut a bias strip, 5cm x 76cm 1cm seam allowance used throughout, unless otherwise stated.
1
SEW MAGAZINE 26
Download and print the template from sewmag. co.uk, then follow the cutting guide. With right sides together, match the front and back pieces across the shoulder and sleeve edges. Pin and stitch together at one of the shoulder seams. Neaten the seam allowance and press the seam towards the back, keeping the remaining shoulder one open.
2
Fold and press 1cm on either side of the bias strip. Open one side of the strip and position it around the neckline, from one side of the open shoulder to the other, then pin and stitch along the fold. Crease the strip to the wrong side of
have sharp fabric scissors to hand when snipping out this pattern
the neckline and position the remaining edge over the stitching line.
3
Pin and edgestitch in place, sandwiching the neckline raw edge inside the bias binding, then trim away any excess at the shoulder edges and press. Match, pin and sew the remaining shoulder and sleeve edges together, then overlock the seam allowance and press towards the back.
4
Pin and stitch the side seams, right sides facing, then overlock the seam allowance and press towards the back of the top. Sew the two ends of one of the cufs together to form a circle. Open the seam allowance and fold the band in half lengthways, matching the edges and keeping the raw ones inside.
5
Pair the cuf seam to the end of the side seam on the top, and pin the band to the end of the sleeves before stitching in place. Overlock the seam allowance, then press it inside the sleeve. Repeat the process on the other sleeve and cuf. Neaten the base of the top, fold and press 5mm all the way around, then sew a narrow hem.
DRESSMAKING
Core Skill STITCHING SHEER FABRIC
$ TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD sewmag.co.uk/templates
IN SIZES 8-20
Some dressmakers shy away from delicate materials as they can slip about, but these top tools will give you a helping hand. Make sure you have sharp fabric scissors and a padded cutting board to hand when snipping sheer material, and only use silk or ine pins when securing the fabric as heavy duty ones will leave holes!
This loral trellis chifon is ideal for the Kaitlin top as its delicate weight allows it to tuck and gather beautifully – you’ll be the belle of the ball at every garden party! £9.98 per metre, abakhan.co.uk
SEW MAGAZINE 27
Traditional Flowers
Vest top, £3.99, hm.com; jeans, £22, next.co.uk; necklace, £19.50, marksandspencer.com
fabric shopper
sewing
SOS Our experts help you get to grips with facings and interfacings
Q
What’s the diference between facing and interfacing? Tina Tennant
Claire says Facings and interfacings are commonly mistaken for each other, especially because most facings need to be interfaced! Basically, facings are pieces of fabric used to inish of the raw edges of a garment, and are folded inside to cover up the seams. In comparison, interfacing is attached to material to stabilise it, and is often used around necklines, waistlines and button placements. Interfacing can be purchased in two forms: fusible and sew-in. The fusible version is covered in a heat reactive glue so that it can be ironed on to fabric for a quick solution, whereas the sew-in version requires you to stitch around the edge of the material to attach it and is not used much nowadays because it takes a long time Blue top, £49.50, to apply.
oliverbonas.com
Q
How do I know which interfacing to use and when I need it to stitch with it? Georgia Piggering
SEW MAGAZINE 28
Alison says
Yellow dress, £55, romanoriginals. co.uk
Using interfacing correctly will elevate your dressmaking skills to the next level! As Claire mentioned, interfacing is an extra layer added to speciic parts of a garment, such as collars, cufs, necklines and pockets, but your pattern will always tell you which pieces need this. It gives support, body and shaping to the desired areas, and is available in iron-on or sew-in options, non-woven, woven or knit versions, dark or light colours and various weights. As a rule of thumb, I choose interfacing with near enough the same properties, such as colour and weight, as the fabric I’m sewing with. I also never skip applying interfacing on facings, collars, waistbands and high-stress areas such as buttons and pocket openings.
Kate stripe top, £39, monsoon.co.uk
Patchwork dress, monsoon.co.uk
here to
help
SEW OVER IT CHLOE COAT, FROM £9, SEWOVERIT.CO.UK
CLAIRE ALLINGTON Sew Creative’s workshops are led by tutor Claire who teaches stitchers of all ages and abilities to complete dressmaking, patchwork and home projects. sewcreative.org.uk
ALISON GREER
LISA COMFORT
Alison has over 20 years’ experience in designing, sewing and dressmaking, and she uses her skills to teach others how to create incredible garments! bagladybird. wordpress.com
Sew Over It is your one-stop-shop for sewing patterns, creative classes and brilliant fabric. Plus, founder Lisa has created ready-to-wear cardigans to die for! sewoverit.co.uk
Q
What is all-inone facing, and how can I attach it? Arabella Davark
Lisa says All-in-one facing allows you to inish the armholes of a sleeveless garment and neckline as an alternative to bias binding or bodice lining – it provides a beautifully clean inish and adds stability. It’s also great for garments with a front or back opening, as long as you attach it before you close the seam. The facing will have front and back pieces, so the irst thing to do is to attach these at the shoulder seams. Press the seams open, then align the facing and bodice at the neckline and armholes. With right sides together, pin and sew all three seams. Trim and clip the seam allowance, then pull the garment through the shoulders, right sides out. Press the neckline and armholes, rolling the seam line towards the facing. Align the side seams, with right sides together, and open the facing out so that you can pin facing to facing and bodice to bodice, with the underarm seam perfectly matched up. Sew the seam in one straight line on each side of the garment, et voilà!
top4 PATTERNS
It’s time to put your knowledge to the test! This selection of patterns from Megan Nielsen will have you working with diferent types of facing and interfacing – practise makes perfect, right?
EASY BREEZY Tania culottes
DEAR DARLING Darling ranges dress
PERFECT FIT Axel skirt
tip! Most facings will need to be interfaced, and it’s important for the stability of the garment that you never skip this step!
SO FEMININE Sudley blouse and dress
Got a stitchy question for us? Email us at editorial@sewmag.co.uk or message us at facebook.com/sewhq and we’ll do our best to answer it!
SEW MAGAZINE 29
ALL PATTERNS ARE FROM MEGAN NIELSEN – VISIT MEGANNIELSEN.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION
Debbie Shore’s
show & tell
SEW MAGAZINE 30
Making your own bias binding is cost efective, and it means you’ll always have the perfect colour match! Stretch fabrics are popular for garment making, and here I show you a method to inish necklines and armholes on sleeveless tops using these knits and a bias binding maker. Woven material cut on the bias has a slight stretch which allows it to be sewn around curves without puckering, while stretch fabrics don’t need to be cut on the bias, unless an efect is required – for instance, a horizontal or vertical stripe will help create a diagonal look when bias cut.
STRETCHY BIAS BINDING
Cut fabric strips to twice the size of a bias binding maker: a 1in bias maker requires a 2in strip. A rotary cutter and ruler will make an accurate cut without stretching the fabric.
1
Join the strips if necessary by overlapping the pieces at a 90-degree angle. You can use a stretch stitch setting on your sewing machine to achieve this.
2
3
4
5
6
If you’re adding binding to a neckline, your pattern will probably tell you to sew the strip into a loop. To do this, simply attach the two short ends together.
Pin it evenly to the neckline, right sides and raw edges together. The binding will be slightly smaller than the neckhole, but simply ease the two pieces together as you sew.
Thread the fabric strips through your bias binding maker and as you pull it through, it will fold the long edges to the centre. Remember to press at the same time.
Sew along the crease marking with a stretch stitch, then fold over the binding. To complete the garment, use a hand-sewn slipstitch.
For more great tips from Debbie, visit halfyardsewingclub.com
FREE
indie
PATTERN! Siz e
s4
Tara Jacket
Siz es
6 -2
PATTERN PICKS
*Valid until 30th April 2019
Diiculty: Exquisitely tailored and softly lined, the Tara jacket ofers a nipped-in waist and tie belt with undulating waves cascading down the front lapel. Pair this pattern with a itted pencil skirt, or go casual with your favourite pair of jeans. It’s a classic piece that will complement and complete any outit. FREE with code SEWMAG19*, rebecca-page.com
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by Rebecca Page
The best from independent designers
0 Size s
SEW MAGAZINE 32
by Tilly and the Buttons
Diiculty: Say hello to Tilly and the Buttons’ very irst outerwear sewing pattern! Packed with all the gorgeous details we’ve grown to love from their playful designs, the Eden coat or jacket is garment that’s sure to be brought out for every rainy spring walk! The pattern also comes with easy-to-follow photo instructions to make sewing this a breeze. £16.50, shop.tillyandthebuttons.com
ANNE VALEUR
8 6- 1
Eden Raincoat
Johane Dres by Melilot Diiculty: There’s a reason the iconic wrap dress has a permanent place in our capsule wardrobe; it’s versatile, easy to wear and hugs your curves in all the right places! Create your own with Melilot’s short-sleeved Johanne dress that can be inished with either a buttoned wrap closure or a faux-wrap with a zipper in the side. From £13.50, melilot.no
Marte Coat by Melilot
Siz e s4 -22
Siz es
Diiculty: Whether it’s sewn in cotton, linen or heavyweight wovens, the Marte coat provides oodles of style potential with its oversized fit, dropped shoulders and hidden pockets within the side seams. This pattern can also be made without a lining, making this comfy throw-on a really speedy make. From £13.50, melilot.no
6 8 -1
Siz
es ANNE VALEUR
8-20
River Top
REVERSIBLE DESIGNS
by Megan Nielsen
by Sew Over It
Diiculty: Bootcut is back with a bang, which is why we can’t wait to stitch the latest Sew Over It pattern. As well as these fabulous trousers, you can also create a pair of chic dungarees, with no front fastenings, topstitching or bib pockets – instead, the straps neatly fasten at the back with buttons. £9, sewoverit.co.uk
SEW MAGAZINE 33
Diiculty: Want two tops but only have time to stitch one? Not a problem! Megan Nielsen’s River pattern comes with four reversible designs, including this fabulous knit top in a modern cropped length. You can also find a loose-fit dress with optional pockets, plus a smart woven blouse. From £16, megannielsen.com
Sara Trousers
$ TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD sewmag.co.uk/templates
IN SIZES 8-20
Set sail with the Get started
Connie dress
Essentials Jersey, 1.5m (150cm) Bias binding, 2cm wide Twisted piping cord Fusible interfacing Hem tape
Sizes 8-20
Cutting guide Front: cut one on the fold Back: cut one on the fold Sleeve: cut one pair Neckband: cut a strip, 5cm x 64cm, with the grainline running lengthways 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout, unless otherwise stated.
turn to p30 for tips on stretchy bias binding
4
Match, pin and stitch the side seams of the back and front pieces, right sides facing, then press the seams open. Complete a row of gathering stitches around the head of the sleeves, starting from the front notch and finishing at the back ones. Match, pin and stitch the underarm sleeves, right sides facing, then turn right sides out.
1
5
2
6
3
7
Download and print the template at sewmag.co.uk. Neaten the shoulder and side seam edges on the back and front pieces. Match the shoulder seams on the front and back, then pin and sew one shoulder, right sides facing, and press the seam open.
Neaten one long edge of the neckband and position it around the neckline from one side of the open shoulder to the other. Stretch the band slightly, then pin and stitch in place with a 1cm seam allowance. Trim any excess binding at the edges of the shoulders.
SEW MAGAZINE 34
If not being able to ind a casual and practical dress for spring is making you feel like walking the plank, then fear not, this fabulous frock is here to save the day! Amanda Walker’s nautical style piece gives you the opportunity to perfect vital stitchy skills such as using interfacing, attaching bias binding and adding hem tape – with talents like this under your rope belt, the dressmaking possibilities are endless.
Match, pin and sew the remaining shoulder, continuing the stitching into the neckband. Fold the neckband onto the wrong side of the neckline and position the remaining neat edge over the stitching line. Pin and edgestitch in place from the right side of the neckline, sandwiching the raw edge inside.
Pull the gathering threads up and place the sleeves into the armhole. Match the side and underarm seams of the sleeves, then pair the centre notch of the sleeve to the end of the shoulder seam. Adjust the gathers to fit the armhole, then pin and sew in place. Overlock the seam allowance and pull out the gathering stitches.
Neaten the base of the sleeves, fold and press up a 2.5cm hem, stitch hem tape inside, then machine-stitch in place. Make two buttonholes, 2cm long, and attach a small rectangle of fusible interfacing over them, then cut through. Starting from one side seam, position and pin the bias binding around the dress along the line marked on the template. Edgestitch both sides of the binding to create a channel and use a safety pin to thread the cord into one buttonhole, around the bias channel, and out the remaining buttonhole. Tie a knot in each end of the cord. Overlock the dress base and press a 2.5cm hem, then place the hem tape inside and machine-stitch in place.
DRESSMAKING
Core Skill ATTACHING INTERFACING Interfacing is commonly used to stabilise areas such as necklines, waistlines and button positions. The Connie dress requires fusible interfacing, a variation that contains a heat reactive glue coating which can be ironed on to fabric quickly and smoothly.
Breton Stripes
SEW MAGAZINE 35
If you’re searching for a versatile knitted fabric to sew this nautical dress, then Girl Charlee’s stripy jersey is just the ticket! The lightweight teal material is super soft with fantastic drape and stretch. £7.96 per metre, girlcharlee.co.uk
Bag, £19.99, tkmaxx.com; shoes, £34, oasis-stores.com
fabric shopper
LAUREN GUTHRIE
“The Sewing Bee pushed me to make things I didn’t know I was capable of!”
W
ith The Great British Sewing Bee back on our screens, it’s got me reminiscing about my own time on the show back in 2013. I say 2013, but actually it was ilmed in 2012! Back before we even knew what an alteration challenge was, how stressful the showstopper challenges can be, what the judges were really looking for and how much buzz and excitement a TV show about sewing can create! I hadn’t opened my shop Guthrie & Ghani yet, but it was in the making. I was in the middle of a year-long renovation project, restoring the historical building that the shop now occupies. I quite naively applied, thinking that it sounded fun and I was intrigued to have my sewing critiqued by professionals as up until that point I had sewn purely as a hobby and hadn’t really shared it with anyone. Thinking back on my time on the show has made me realise what a diferent dressmaker I was back then. I didn’t have an overlocker but was a complete neat freak and wanted everything I made to be perfect inside and out. So I’d painstakingly think of ways to conceal raw edges with bias binding and use techniques like French seams or lat felling. It would mean garments would take much longer to make, unlike now when a lot of the time I just zip them through the overlocker! Bias binding was my ‘thing’ on the show, I loved making it and had brought my own maker onto the set with me to use – just in case! It certainly came in handy and I used it on lots of my projects during the show to the judges admiration. I was even told, after the show had been aired, that bias binding makers were selling out
The class of 2013! Can you spot familiar faces Stuart and Tilly too?
Words of Wisdom
SEW MAGAZINE 36
“Even when you feel super busy with life, it’s worth taking 10 minutes each day to do a little bit of sewing!”
By the end of the final episode, I was overlocking the sequins on the showstopper dress that I made for my sister!
across the country as people had been inspired to give it a go too! Having the time pressures that you get with the challenges on the Sewing Bee pushed me to stitch another way – I just had to be quicker – and by the inal episode I was even overlocking the sequins on the red carpet showstopper dress that I made for my sister. That’s not something I would necessarily recommend now, but needs must when you’ve only got seven hours to complete a project with ive TV cameras and over 50 members of crew watching you! The show pushed me to make things that I know I would have never considered myself to be capable of before. Mens trousers for starters – it took me another four years to brave a ly front again! I made three coats in a week, two to practise and one on the show. And having only made casual clothes for myself before, the sculpted, asymmetrical satin and sequin gown I created in the inal really pushed my sewing conidence to a new level. ‘It’s all seams at the end of the day, just lots more of them’ – that’s what I told myself. Now, there aren’t many things I wouldn’t want to try making. Over the years I’ve taught myself how
Bias binding was my ‘thing’ on the show! £9.20, guthrie-ghani.co.uk to sew with stretchy jersey fabrics, how to make my own jeans and I’ve made about ive coats and jackets since. It’s all about practise and not being afraid to just give something a go. I think as adults we can be hard on ourselves, expecting that we will be really good at something right from the start, before we have even had a chance to learn. With time, patience, dedication and a deep down desire to really do it, I think anyone can really make anything! Six years on from the start of the Sewing Bee craze, top quality dressmaking fabrics and inspiring independent sewing patterns are really easy to come by – online especially. There are so many more people sewing their own clothes and realising not only the joy the making process can be, but appreciating quality over quantity and fast fashion in their wardrobes. There are so many resources for learning how to sew on blogs and on YouTube – this year I started a top sewing tips series on my channel. It’s an exciting time for the home dressmaker and a trend that I hope will continue to lourish into the future. There are always new things to learn, even for me and I’m looking forward to sharing that with you in my new column over the coming months.
Lauren x
To hear more from Lauren, visit guthrie-ghani.co.uk, or follow her on Instagram @guthrieghani
37
sewmag.co.uk
$ TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD sewmag.co.uk/templates
IN SIZES 8-20
For seriously flattering style, sew the
Mabel Top Get started
Constructed using just a few pattern pieces, this winning number covers all the fashion bases while afording you ultimate practical comfort. Featuring dainty neck pleats and simple facing techniques, Julia Claridge’s ever-ready pattern can be kept classically casual in cotton or dressed up using a silky charmeuse. Now that’s what we call a wrap star!
Essentials Fabric, 2m (140cm) Lightweight interfacing
Sizes 8-20
Cutting guide
3
Front: cut one pair Back: cut one pair Back neck facing: cut one in main fabric, one in interfacing Front neck facing: cut one pair in main fabric, one pair in interfacing Tie: cut two
4
1cm seam allowance used throughout, unless otherwise stated.
5
1
Download and cut out the pattern from sewmag.co.uk, then add interfacing to the reverse of the neck facing pieces. Pin and sew the long and angled tie edges, right sides together, leaving the short straight end unstitched. Trim, then turn the tie through to the right side and press.
SEW MAGAZINE 38
Use the tie to create an hourglass silhouette
Match the back neck facing to the front neck facing at the shoulder seam, right sides together. Neaten the inner raw edge by overlocking or turning a narrow 5mm singleturned hem.
2
To make the pleats at the front neck edge, bring the notches together and stitch across the upper edge. Sew the centre back seam, right sides together. With raw edges matched, place one tie at each centre-front waist edge and machine-stitch.
Join the front and back pieces at the shoulder and sleeve seam, right sides together, then neaten the raw edges and press. Attach the neck facing to the neck edge, right sides together, taking care to match the seams and raw edges. At the lower hem edge of the facing, mark a line 2.5cm above the cut edge and stitch, starting on one side and finishing at the other. Trim the corners, then under-stitch the neck facing, working as close to the lower edge as you can.
6
After neatening the side edges, stitch the side seams, right sides together, leaving a gap at one side inbetween the notches so you can insert the tie belt. On this side, press the seam open and topstitch around the edge of the gap.
7
Neaten the hem and sleeve edges, then make a single turned 2.5cm hem in line with the facing on the hem and stitch. Once you have sewn the sleeve hems, stitch the facing shoulder seams by hand to the garment shoulder seams to complete.
DRESSMAKING
Core Skill SEWING WITH KNIT FABRIC The winning feature of any knitted fabric is that it stretches much more than any woven version. The main diference between the two is that wovens have two lots of threads at right angles to each other, whereas knitted materials are made from interlocking loops – think of it as hand knitting on a tiny scale!
top tip
fabric shopper
Keep it cool and classic with a navy cotton knit interlock, which latters all skin tones and maintains satisfying breathability. For stockist details, visit hantex.co.uk/cloud9
SEW MAGAZINE 39
Cloud9 Navy Spot
Remember to use zig zag stitch, rather than straight stitch, when sewing horizontal seams.
5 HOT BUYS
Stitch the Look
1
FABULOUS FLORALS
2
Springtime and budding blooms go together as perfectly as tea and cake and, as the season comes around again, we can barely contain our excitement to see how florals have been reinvented on the very latest fabric collections. Whether it’s brightly-coloured tulips, blossoming lilies or radiant sunflowers you’re after, you’ll be spoilt for choice with perfect pattern repeats for your garments. Just take a look at our picks from Croft Mill for inspiration...
“When everything begins to bloom, a flowery garment will bring joy and colour to any outfit! From cotton spandex and satin shirting, we’ve got a fabric to suit every taste.”
SEW MAGAZINE 40
Caroline Boardwell Reid, Managing Director at Croft Mill
3 4 Floral dress, houseofraser.co.uk
5 1 Chifon in Dark Royal Floral, £4.74 per metre 2 Cotton poplin in Black Floral, £6.95 per metre 3 Poplin in Sarah Mint Green, £6.95 per metre 4 Chifon in White Floral Youryu, £4.50 per metre 5 Polyester in Turquoise Rose, £16 per metre All of the featured fabrics are available from croftmill.co.uk
On-line stockists of Liberty fabrics - Including Liberty Tana Lawn, Needlecord, Jersey and Lantana. Silk and Fleece
‘Indie’ dressmaking and crafting patterns - Hot Patterns, Colette, Serendipity Studio, Sewaholic, Gather, By Hand, Papercut Christine Haynes, Cashmerette, Rosie & Me, How To Do Fashion.dk and Nina Lee.
www.sewbox.co.uk 25% discount for Sew readers
The greatest selection of true vintage sewing patterns, from 1920s flapper dresses, to 1970s jumpsuits.
World Wide Shipping - Credit Cards Welcome
www.sovintagepatterns.com
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sewmag.co.uk
Susie Johns’
Make a splash with an easy cotton
STITCH SCHOOL
Mermaid Skirt ¥¥
Get started Essentials Fabric: white cotton, 19cm x 110cm; blue patterned, 31cm x 110cm DMC Perle Cotton, one skein, purple (4215) DMC Satin, one skein, turquoise (S943), blue (S995) Six-stranded embroidery thread, one skein of each: orange, tangerine, peach, pale peach, black, green, rose pink, turquoise blue, golden yellow Elastic, 12mm x 55cm Blue ric rac braid, 1.1m Erasable pen Embroidery needle Embroidery hoop
Introducing this month's embroidery challenge: the buttonhole stitch. Perfect for edging, outlining and illing, here it's been used to create shimmering scales that subtly curve to give the illusion of movement. Satin thread also adds a hint of shine, while the six-strand provides a solid illing for the mermaids' lowing locks and sweet little ishes.
$ TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD
sewmag.co.uk/templates
Sizes Age 7-8 years
1
2
SEW MAGAZINE 42
3
“Inject a touch of nautical fun into bedroom decor and embroider the design on a cushion, framed picture or repeat the motif along the lower edge of a curtain” Buttonhole Filling
1
Draw a shape using an erasable marker, then outline in backstitch. To make the first row, push the needle up through the fabric on the lefthand edge of the outline, near the top, then down through the fabric on the upper edge.
2
Bring it out a stitch length below, taking the tip of the needle under the loop of thread. Take the needle up through the loop and pull to tighten; the vertical thread is now held by a small horizontal bar below. Continue along the top of the shape.
3
Make a second row, taking the needle down through the fabric just above the bar of the stitch above, to link the rows. Continue, working odd-numbered rows from left to right and even-numbered rows from right to left.
DRESSMAKING
Embroider the design
1
2
3
4
in pink with a line of black separating the lips. Using two strands of thread in satin stitch, sew with tangerine for the bodies and golden yellow for the heads, tails and fins. Once you’ve finished, immerse the fabric in cool water to remove all pen lines. Leave to dry, then press on the wrong side.
5
Make the skirt
1
Join the top edge of the embroidered fabric to one long edge of the patterned fabric, leaving a 1cm seam. Press the seam towards the patterned fabric, then topstitch 2mm from the seam line. Sew the two short ends together to form the back seam.
2
On the top edge of the skirt, fold 1cm to the wrong side, then a further 3cm. Stitch 2-3mm from both edges of this waistband to create a channel, leaving a small gap for inserting elastic. Thread the elastic through the channel using a safety pin. Stitch the ends of the elastic together and sew the gap in the waistband closed. Finish the lower edge of the skirt with a narrow hem. Do this by folding 8mm to the wrong side, then a further 1cm, and sew. Pin the length of ric rac braid over the stitch line on the right side and sew in place.
3
SEW MAGAZINE 43
Download and print the template at sewmag. co.uk. Fold white cotton in half to find the centre, then place it flat on a surface and trace the mermaid design in the centre. Position it 3cm from the top edge to allow for a seam allowance, and 5.5cm from the lower edge to make room for the hem. Place a section of the cotton in an embroidery hoop, then outline the mermaid tails in backstitch using perle thread. Fill in the tails following the buttonhole step-by-step, varying the width and length of the stitches to create curved lines.
The fluke on the ends should be embroidered with rows of backstitch using perle thread. Fill in the bra shapes using two strands of satin thread with satin stitch. With two strands of pale peach, complete the bodies, arms and faces using rows of split stitch. Using one strand of green, outline the bodies and arms in backstitch. Colour the hair using two strands of thread in split stitch: peach for one, orange for the other. Using one strand of thread, fill in the iris of the eyes using turquoise blue, then outline the eyes and embroider eyebrows and nostrils using black thread and backstitch. Add mouths
treat yourself to a
machine
110 stitches Ambition 610 The Ambition 610 machine has 20cm of sewing space on the right-hand side of the needle, making it perfect for sewers who love to stitch large quilting projects. This model also has an integrated dual feed system, which means it can be used with all types of thick or thin fabric to produce consistently perfect stitching. Other features on this machine include an informative LCD screen and 110 stitch options.
Price: £599
LOVE YOUR auto-set LCD tension screen Ambition 620 With the Ambition 620 machine, you’ll easily be able to adjust the speed of your sewing with the slider control, plus it has 136 built-in stitches that can sew up to 7mm in length, some of which can even be used to embellish projects with decorative designs. This model also has an integrated dual feed system, an LCD touch screen, and a large sewing area for bigger projects.
SEW MAGAZINE 44
Price: £699
Transform your sewing with
shop of the
month What’s on Ofer? 3 Multi-brand machines, specialising in Pfaf 3 Servicing and repairs 3 Haberdashery items 3 Sewing workshops 3 Beginner’s tuition classes 3 Service for recycling your sewing machine
Aberdeen Sewing Machines was born in 2015, and ofers top-quality sewing machines, including Pfaf models. It provides a recommendation and demonstration service which strives to match people to the correct machine, as well as full repairs. The services at this store don’t stop there, as it has a selection of haberdashery essentials and the latest accessories to make your sewing fuss-free and easy. Tutors are also on hand in workshops for one-to-one tuition, plus the shop has an innovative programme allowing you to trade in any new sewing machine for a secondhand one so that it can be reconditioned, resold or recycled.
Visit Aberdeen Sewing Machines Ltd, 39 Baker Street, Aberdeen, AB25 1UR. Alternatively, visit aberdeensewing.com or call 01224 478555.
promotion Key Features:
expert finish
3 Colour LCD touch screen 3 Large sewing space 3 201 built-in stitches 3 Twin needle programme 3 Speed slider 3 Integrated dual feed
“The Quilt Ambition 630 model has all the features you’ll ever need in a sewing machine”
Ambition 630 The Quilt Ambition 630 model has all the features you’ll ever need on a sewing machine. With a colour touch screen, an integrated dual feed system that’s perfect for all types of fabrics, and 201 built-in stitches to help you add unique embellishments, this model makes sewing a breeze for all skill levels. To top it of, the machine has the option for you to lengthen satin stitches, easily cut the top and bobbin threads, and use a twin needle system that automatically adjusts the stitch width once you’ve entered the needle size on the LCD screen.
Price: £799
MACHINE
Coverlock 3.0
editor’s choice
this month’s collection high speed Creative 1.5 stitching
For any innovative stitchers out there who want to add a creative touch to their projects, this machine is for you! The model features an embroidery software system for your computer where you can adjust, personalise and combine designs to make your projects truly unique. Along with a high speed setting, this model also has a 15cm x 24cm space for sewing and embroidery, making it suitable for all kinds of projects, including quilting, homeware and dressmaking.
Price: £999
Want to give your projects a professional-looking inish? Pfaf’s Coverlock 3.0 machine is just the ticket! It has 23 stitches which can be used for sewing elastic hems and inishing of seams, as well as a chainstitch which works brilliantly for tacking. The model also has an auto-tension dial and a ivethread overlocking system.
Price: £879
SEW MAGAZINE 45
Find your local stockist at pfaff.com
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The team’s top picks for April
Wish t s i L
April is one of the most exciting times of the year for us stitchers as the change in season is the perfect chance to start a new project – so what better way to celebrate than with this month’s dressmaking wish list? Here you’ll ind our specially-curated fabric, along with patterns galore and unique accessories!
Simply Devine Diamonds aren’t a girl’s best friend – sewing is! Two jewellery designers who understand this better than anyone are Rosie and Harriet, founders of Tatty Devine. This unique brand puts a spin on traditional jewellery, using laser cut sewing machines, scissors, bunting and more to adorn the accessories. £40, tattydevine.com
Spring doesn’t start until Art Gallery Fabrics bring out a new collection, and this April it’s the Sisu range! The assortment is bursting with sunshine-inspired colours, busy prints and quirky motifs. Plus, each piece is made in premium cotton to ensure your outits are light and breathable. For stockists, visit artgalleryfabrics.com
Fus-free Patern
Easy Breezy
If you buy one pattern this April, it has to be Sew Over It’s Sara dungarees! The garment is easy to stitch, making it perfect for dressmaking newbies, plus it’s ideal for adding style and sophistication to your wardrobe. The pattern is 100% fuss-free too, with straps that neatly button up and a nifty invisible zip. £9, sewoverit.co.uk
Danish shop STOFF & STIL has launched a brand-new SS19 range! It was dificult to pick just one item to share with you, but the loral woven viscose really is the cherry on top of a fabulous collection; the material is lightweight, making it the sleekest choice for sewing loaty knee-length shorts. £9.95 per metre, stoffstil.co.uk
Walk on the Wild Side
SEW MAGAZINE 46
Walking on Sunshine
Crafting extraordinaire Lisa Comfort has just released a range of stunning crepe fabrics for spring, and we’re itching to try them out! The Wild Flower collection comes in colour variations of black, burgundy and silver. Each version drapes wonderfully and has a non-directional print so you won’t be caught out by iddly pattern matching. £14 per metre, lisacomfort.shop
Boys, Boys, Boys
I AM Patterns has launched its irst-ever menswear design and it’s a cracker! The brand has created a quintessential sweatshirt, which is simple enough to add your own spin to it – will you dress it up with a faux shirt collar, or opt for a fun look and add contrasting cuffs? Whatever you decide, I AM Patterns makes sewing accessible for everyone! £10.45, iampatterns.fr
Tell us your favourite products by emailing editorial@sewmag.co.uk
A Story Sewn by You
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Your future remains to be sewn! VIKING, DESIGNER and BRILLIANCE are exclusive trademarks of Singer Sourcing Limited LLC. HUSQVARNA and the ”H” Crown Device are trademarks of Husqvarna AB. ©2018 Singer Sourcing Limited LLC. All rights reserved.
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tea break
DESIGNER, DAREDEVIL, DREAM MAKER
SEW MAGAZINE 49
Words by Laura Wybrow
CHRISTIAN DIOR WITH MODEL SYLVIE, CIRCA 1948. COURTESY OF CHRISTIAN DIOR
When you hear the word ‘Dior’ what image jumps to mind irst? Do you remember the showstopping New Look collection? Or the classic bar suit that pioneered the hourglass shape of the ifties? Whatever the quintessential moment is for you, there’s no denying that the brand has revolutionised fashion through its innovative designs. Here, we delve into the wonderful world of the iconic designer, following the recent launch of the V&A exhibition Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams.
QUITE A REVOLUTION It was a wintry morning in February when Christian Dior unveiled his debut collection, which championed fuller skirts, cinched-in waists and fashionable folds. The line was dubbed New Look by the press from the moment Carmel Snow, editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar, exclaimed: “It’s quite a revolution, dear Christian. Your dresses have such a new look.” The French designer was an overnight sensation, and no one forgot the impact of the 1947 collection. Dior’s designs were a breath of fresh air after the fashion that had dominated the decade’s early years. He demonstrated that clothes could be enchanting and feminine rather than purely practical, as the team at the
Globe and Mail publication exclaimed: “When Dior inishes with a gown, his models look like women. They don’t look athletic – they look frightfully elegant and terribly, terribly feminine!” Later collections counterbalanced the New Look’s hourglass trend with tailored pencil skirts that suited boyish igures, and H-Line silhouettes which lengthened the leg and emphasised the waist. Some criticised the collection because they believed it suppressed women’s natural curves so to prove his critics wrong, Dior photographed the famously shapely actress Jane Russell in the outits!
ALL IN THE DETAILS British women welcomed the femininity Dior’s garments brought with open arms, and no one wanted to celebrate them more so than Christian: “I adore English women dressed not only in the tweeds which suit them so well, but also in those lowing dresses in subtle colours which they
Raf Simons was inspired by the New Look hourglass silhouette
LAZIZ HAMANI, DIOR HÉRITAGE COLLECTION, PARIS
SEW MAGAZINE 50
A Midsummer Night’s Dream meets haute couture
COURTESY OF CHRISTIAN DIOR
DESIGNER DAREDEVIL, DREAM MAKER
behind the scenes at the haute couture ateliEr
have worn inimitably since the days of Gainsborough.” His fondness for Britain was explored through details such as embroidered lorals, which took inspiration from the 18th century: “Embroidery is one of the most beautiful things done by the hand of woman. But one of the most dangerous to use with elegance – you must only wear embroidery on suitable occasions, otherwise it is pretentious,” said Dior. Perhaps that’s why he opted for shells made from mother of pearl and breathtaking beading when he was commissioned to design Princess Margaret’s 21st birthday dress! Embellishments such as feathers, fringing and Swarovski crystals also adorned the dresses of the
era as Nadja Swarovski of the namesake brand reveals: “The histories of Swarovski and Dior have been intertwined since the 1950s when my grandfather worked alongside Monsieur Dior himself to develop the Aurora Borealis crystal, a stunning diamond that produces rainbow-like efects.”
STEP INSIDE For those of us who haven’t been lucky enough to own anything Dior, you can still witness over 500 artefacts, 200 rare outits, accessories and more at the Victoria & Albert Museum from now until mid-July. Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams is the largest-ever UK exhibition on the artistry
Bold colours, narrow waists and floral décor were Dior’s signature styles
tea break inspired frocks, and a mirrored hall full of glamorous haute couture outfits worn to red carpet events.
You shall go to the ball! Director of Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s fairytale gown
LAZIZ HAMANI, DIOR HÉRITAGE COLLECTION, PARIS
FULL CIRCLE
of haute couture, and is based on the eponymous 2017 show at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs which attracted a whopping 700,000 visitors! As you step inside the exhibition, prepare to be wowed by the New Look collection with its crisp collars, full skirts and tailored jackets. The following room will transport you back in time as it demonstrates how Dior incorporated 18th century British art forms, such as embroidery and tapestry, into his gowns. Other displays include a magical garden which showcases nature-
The exhibition also nods to the illustrious creative directors who followed in Dior’s sling-back pumps. Yves Saint Laurent and Marc Bohan famously moved away from Dior’s signature style; in the V&A book accompanying the exhibition, authors Oriole Cullen and Connie Karol Burks explain: “Yves’ first collection presented a new silhouette for the house which moved the emphasis away from the waistline. His designs for Dior had a youthful approach, echoing the style of his own generation.” Whereas modern-day creative directors, Raf Simons and Maria Grazia Chirui favoured Dior’s feminine flavours. Cullen and Burks explain: “For Simons’ first haute couture collection, he reinterpreted the New Look silhouette, injecting a streamlined modernity that reflected the practicalities of clothing for the contemporary woman.” And the current director, Maria has ensured that Christian Dior remains at the forefront of haute couture, with each new collection being just as significant as the first. Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams is at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London from now until 14th July 2019. You can buy tickets at vam.ac.uk
get couture style with aneka truman
★ Add layers of beading, feathers and flowers to transform an ordinary garment into a haute couture one. ★ Complete your outfit with French seams and figure of eight stitches to provide a strong but flexible hem. ★ Use a fine betweens needle for embellishments, and a sharps needle for buttonholes. ★ Inject a timeless look into materials such as tweed by adding a braided trim to the edges of sleeves and pockets.
get the book To capture highlights from the exhibition, the V&A has released the stunning Christian Dior hardback. £35, vam.ac.uk
30 ave montaigne, paris in 1947
Princess Margaret in 1951 wearing an elegant Dior design
SEW MAGAZINE 51
DIOR HÉRITAGE COLLECTION, PARIS
CECIL BEATON, VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON
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SEW MAGAZINE 54
e e M t th . . . .
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SEWING BEE STARS Sew gets to know the fresh faces in series ive Words by Sophie Demetriades
. ..
.Meet th
.. e 2019.
SEWING BEE STARS the acrobat Name Ben Age 31 Occupation Scientist Likes to sew Fancy dress costumes!
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eet 31-year-old sewer, Ben. Originally from Plymouth, Ben has spent most of his life living in Edinburgh with his two beloved dogs. Over the last five years, Ben has been pursuing his career in science and is also a fully-trained veterinary surgeon.
Although his background is academic, he professes that he’s always had a love for design, seeing sewing as a creative outlet with which he enjoys experimenting with bold textiles and screen printing – he even transfers his own designs onto fabric! Ben admits that he owes his stitching skills to the numerous fancy dress costumes he had to whip up during his time at University of Glasgow Veterinary School – we’d love to see some of those! Aside from stitching and science, Ben dreams of running away to join the circus as a static trapeze artist. Follow Ben on Instagram @benmoore
Super Gran
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anet is from North Yorkshire and lives with her husband of 48 years, David, and their dog. The 70-year-old loves to upcycle her own outfits and embellish her garments with artistic flare by personalising them with quilting and embroidery. Janet was taught to sew by her Italian mother and at 16, she was making clothes and homeware furnishings. However, after having three children, she had a 20-year hiatus before taking up sewing again in 2015 while inspired
to stitch for her grandchildren. Despite this, crafting has always played an important part in her life, as she owned a wool and knitting shop before working as a magistrate for 20 years. Janet is now retired, so she likes to spend her time painting landscapes, making beaded jewellery and playing golf. She has even had her paintings featured in exhibitions around the country! See more from Janet on Instagram @jannisews
SEW MAGAZINE 55
he much-anticipated Sewing Bee is now in full swing, so it’s about time we got to know a bit more about the brandnew line-up! Who are they? Where are they from? What’s their day job? Sew is here to answer all of your burning questions about the ten hopefuls competing in series five... We wonder who will be crowned this year's winner? Place your bets!
Name Janet Age 70 Occupation Retired shopkeeper Likes to sew Quilting and embroidery projects
. ..
.Meet th
.. e 2019.
SEWING BEE STARS The graphic designer
Al-round Crafter
However, once she stepped into the world of full-time work, she struggled to ind time for sewing. Fortunately, Name Jen Age 49 Occupation Self-employed Jen recently rediscovered her passion for sewing and Likes to sew Clean-cut garments has now started stitching again on a regular basis. She’s addicted to designing and ormer litigation solicitor making things, which means and small business owner, that her home is full to the Jen is a self-employed mother brim with not only sewing of two who lives in Glasgow projects, but all kinds of crafts, with her husband Neil, including knitting, pottery, children Cameron and Kirsty, silversmithing, photography, and family dog Archie. and even a bit of carpentry! At 14, Jen received her irst Find more from Jen on sewing machine and began Instagram @jenerates to make her own clothes.
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Name Tom Age 27 Occupation Graphic designer Likes to sew Statement-print garments
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om from Chelmsford in Essex started experimenting with a sewing machine about eight years ago, but he only dipped his toe into the dressmaking world when he began making clothes for his mum three years ago. Tom started teaching himself to stitch using sewing blogs and YouTube tutorials, and now he loves whipping up bright, lamboyant creations. Whether it’s animation or sewing projects, motion graphics designer Tom loves to experiment with diferent colours, shapes and textures to create something unique. However, when he’s not working or stitching, Tom’s hobbies include swimming and going along to a weekly gymnastics class. Take a look at Tom's Instagram @tomholmes_ daydreaming
Sporty one
The teacher Name Juliet Age 33 Occupation Primary School Teacher Likes to sew Bold and colourful clothes
SEW MAGAZINE 56
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uliet made the move from Nigeria to London in 2006, and she now lives there with her husband Ken and their ive-year-old daughter. By day, Juliet is a primary school teacher and works as a weightloss consultant, plus she also has a degree in human nutrition. After moving to the UK, Juliet began to teach herself how to sew using just YouTube videos and DVDs. The 33-year-old has now been sewing for ive years, but her initial intrigue in crafts was kick-started in Nigeria when a dressmaker took her measurements and created a beautiful bespoke dress for her. Now a proicient sewer, Juliet enjoys crafting her own creations using bright, bold fabrics and African wax prints, then she showcases her makes on her blog where she also documents her itness journey. Check out Juliet’s Instagram @sewsonatural and blog sewsonatural.com
Name Riccardo Age 37 Occupation Graphic designer Likes to sew Upcycling projects
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raphic designer Riccardo spent his childhood in the picturesque setting of Puglia, a small town in the south of Italy surrounded by deep blue seas and moss green olive trees. The 37-yearold lived there with his three sisters and mother, a lady who had a passion for stitching, meaning that a sewing machine has always been a irm feature in Riccardo’s family life. Despite this, Riccardo only began sewing in earnest when he moved to East London. He took up stitching
classes seven years ago, caught the crafting bug, and hasn’t looked back since! Now he is an advocate of the old saying, ‘reduce, reuse, recycle’, and enjoys refashioning garments and stumbling across charity shop treasures. Outside of the craft room, Riccardo works as a multimedia producer, and in his spare time Riccardo is a bit of a itness fanatic who loves cycling, running and playing volleyball for a local East London team. Follow Riccardo on Instagram @rifallo
DON'T MISS OUT!
Stay up to date with the latest Sewing Bee news on our social media channels @sewhq and at sewmag.co.uk/blog
he singing engineer
adventurer Name Mercedes Age 57 Occupation Reprographics technician Likes to sew Everything!
Name Alexei Age 36 Occupation Engineer Likes to sew Detailed garments
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ercedes is originally from Hammersmith, but moved to East Sussex when she was 17 where she now lives with her husband Graham, daughter Eve and two cats, Maggie and Erica, while her son Jack resides and works in London. Prior to her current job as a reprographics technician at a local school, she served in the Territorial Army for 13 years. The 57-year-old’s love for sewing was initially sparked by her Italian grandmother. When Mercedes reached the age of 13, she concluded that if she wanted to rock her own style, she would have to make clothes herself. Mercedes describes her stitching style as having a touch of Brighton chic about it, which is comfortable but deinitely not ontrend! When Mercedes isn’t getting creative with fabric and thread, she likes to escape with her husband in their beloved camper van. Follow Mercedes on Instagram @ohsewthatmercedes
anufacturing engineer Alexei began sewing two years ago, and has utilised his engineering skills to create precise garments, paying close attention to even the most minute details. Alexei has had MS for more than ten years which has had an impact on the right side of his body, so he has learnt to compensate with his left hand while sewing. After inishing his degree in aerospace engineering, the Leeds-based engineer decided to pursue his passion for singing, training at the Royal Welsh College of Music and Drama. Here he met his now wife Beth while
performing in Bach's St John Passion – they’ve been married for three years and live with their beloved cat Moth. Aside from singing, Alexei enjoys reading and writing, too.
The FASHIONISTA Name Shelia Age 51 Occupation Integrated care liaison oicer Likes to sew Occasion wear
A
he social buterfly
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eah loves reading magazines and dreaming up her own designs for future projects. Leah’s passion for sewing bloomed ive years ago, after being inspired by opulent, readyto-wear collections and couture classics. However, at just 5’2’’, she often struggles to ind clothes which it on the high street, so she prefers to make her own from luxurious fabrics – luckily, her height means she doesn’t have to spend as much on fancy material, so is able to keep up with her high-end tastes for just a fraction of the cost! Leah loves London’s cultural scene and regularly enjoys the theatre, gigs, dining out and a cheeky martini (or two!) with friends. She has also practised yoga for over 20 years and restarted ballet as an adult after giving it up as a child. Take a peek at Leah’s Instagram @sewsewleah
Name Leah Age 43 Occupation Practice director at an architectural irm Likes to sew Luxurious garments
SEW MAGAZINE 57
vid sewer, Shelia, is the youngest of nine children born to Jamaican parents, and now lives in Essex with her 24-year-old daughter Riahanna. Shelia’s love for stitching blossomed at an early age, and she’s now been sewing for 40 years. One of her earliest memories was the constant whirring of her mum’s sewing machine, a noise which became the soundtrack of her childhood. Her love for high-end fashion as a child followed through into adult life, as her personal style draws on elegant
celebrities including Meghan Markle, Victoria Beckham and Stella McCartney. The 51-year-old enjoys working with an array of fabrics and styles, and has a passion for vibrant, colourful prints. Creating garments for occasions such as Ascot and weddings is the niche Shelia loves best; one day, her aim is to create bespoke high-end clothing for women. Aside from the sewing machine, Shelia’s other great loves are keeping it and her job as an integrated care liaison oicer. Find out more about Shelia on Instagram @s.elizabeth.hall
6 ways to
Marie Kondo, inventor of the brilliant KonMari approach!
Spark Joy in your sewing room
The challenges of crafting life (avalanches of fabric! missing buttons!) mean that it’s near impossible to keep the sewing room spick and span. Or is it? Japanese decluttering guru, Marie Kondo would suggest you just aren’t doing it right! Marie’s tidying-up approach, the KonMari method can be broken down into two simple steps:
1 Check mate
1
Struggling to know if that fabric ‘sparks joy’? Let’s find out! Is it good quality?
Yes
No
Is the material timeless?
Yes
No
Does it reflect your personality?
Yes
No
Is the fabric long enough?
Yes
No
If you ticked ‘Yes’ on all of these, keep it! If not, you know where it belongs...
SEW MAGAZINE 58
2
do away with Distractions
The Sew team are guilty as charged when it comes to half-hearted decluttering – we’re either on the phone or catching up on TV to fully immerse ourselves in the process. By giving the act of tidying your full attention, it allows you to hone in on what truly brings you joy and gives you permission to let go of tatty items. If you’re like us, you’ll realise you have so much fabric that either isn’t your style or just isn’t long enough to make anything!
Put your hands on everything you own and ask yourself “does this spark joy?”, and if it doesn’t, thank it for its service and recycle it. When only joy-inducing belongings remain, put every item in a place where it’s visible, accessible and easy to put back.
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Only then, Kondo says, will you reach the epitome of housekeeping and never have to tidy again. Still not convinced? Read on to discover six straightforward ways you can apply the KonMari method to your crafting stash!
Room of one’s own
According to Kondo, decluttering by category rather than by room is the stairway to tidying heaven. For example, when shifting through hoards of handmade garments, it’s best to gather every item from the entire house in one spot; by doing this, you can easily decide what ‘sparks joy’ as you can compare the same types of items side by side. Plus, you’ll be able to identify the true holes in your wardrobe – if you only have one skirt that you love and no joy-giving jeans, it’s time to get stitching...
tea break
fold, fold, & fold again
4
Kondo believes that our belongings would be happier gathered neatly in a drawer and, as we look despairingly at the fabric piled up under our sewing machine stand, we can’t argue! This nifty vertical folding technique makes material easy to spot and diicult to mess up, so you won’t jolt a whole pile of fat quarters every time you hunt for a strip of trimming! Folded this way, it will look like fabric origami that’s ready to line your drawers in neat rows.
top tip To keep your fabric standing to attention, use shoeboxes as drawer dividers: a smaller box is perfect for ¼ metres and a deeper one can hold longer lengths.
5
carry on the Fun!
Hosting a swap party is the best way to ensure your unwanted items go to a good home, so we’ve put together three top tips to guarantee your gathering is a success – you don’t want any confrontation over the last bit of Liberty London fabric!
Give your friends plenty of notice, especially if they want to apply the KonMari approach to their sewing room, too. Spread everything out across a large room or table so everyone has space to sort through supplies. Donate the leftovers to a charity shop, a community centre that hosts craft classes or a school.
1
2
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6Happily ever after Marie recommends clearing out sentimental items last as these are often the trickiest to part with.
get the book Once you’ve inished decluttering, treat yourself to a RMF desk that neatly tucks away all of your stitchy bits ‘n’ bobs! Prices vary, rmfcreateyourspace.com
Are you feeling inspired to continue on your tidying adventure? Delve into Marie Kondo’s sensational book The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying. £12.99, penguin.co.uk
SEW MAGAZINE 59
Congratulations! You’ve discarded, folded and donated, now you’re left with items that bring you happiness. The beauty of KonMari is its inality: once you’ve completed the process, your life will be blissfully organised, devoid of excess stuf and your belongings will stay in perfect order. After you’ve inished decluttering fabric, follow this sequence: clothes, books, papers, miscellaneous and sentimental to apply the method to your whole house! Now, who said keeping the home spick and span was diicult?
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In association with
Your essential guide to
savvy sewing room storagE Get started l Cotton fabric, six prints l Fibre illing 5mm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.
Make a sewing case
Have you ever wished Mary Poppins would step inside your sewing room and click her ingers so it all magically leaps back into place? You’re not alone, stitchers! While we don’t have a button to make her appear, we’ve gathered together an array of nifty solutions that are not only quick to make, but they’ll keep loose threads tucked neatly away, pins always to hand and your handsewn garments neatly zipped up. Don’t forget to declutter your belongings using the KonMari method (p58) beforehand!
Cut four strips of fabric, 4cm x 11cm. Fold one lengthways, right sides together, and stitch the long edge. Turn out the tube and latten. Repeat for the other three. Pin and tack the strips across the top rectangle and one square to make straps.
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Fold a fabric rectangle, 9cm x 12cm, in half lengthways, wrong sides facing, and tack the raw edges to the Using an assortment of fabric colours, cut four rectangles, 9cm x 20cm, and two 9cm other square to make a pocket. Cut a squares. Decide which rectangle will form shape, 9cm x 20cm, fold lengthways with the base of your carry-all and surround it with wrong sides facing and tack the raw edges the other pieces, as you would like them to be to one side rectangle. Topstitch two lines to make three equal-sized pockets. sewn together.
1
Check the orientation of each pocket and strap before sewing the squares to each end of the bottom rectangle, right sides together. Stitch the rectangles to each other across the long edges, right sides together, to form a tube. Pin and sew the pocket square to the short edges of the adjoining rectangles. Do the same with the strapped square, leaving one edge unstitched. Turn the carry-all through the gap and stuf irmly. Fold in the raw edges and slip-stitch
SEW MAGAZINE 61
In association with
Fashion a
thread catcher
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Take two contrasting fabrics for the pocket tabs and iron heavyweight interfacing to the reverse. From each fabric cut two rectangles, 5cm x 10cm for the tabs and one pocket, 5cm x 8cm. Take the pocket fabric and fold a short edge down 1cm, then another 1cm and press. Cut two 2cm dots from velcro and separate the pieces.
2
Stitch one half of each dot to the centre of each pocket. Lay the pocket on top of a tab rectangle with short raw edges in line together. Place another tab rectangle on top, right side facing down, pin in place and stitch using a 0.5cm seam allowance, leaving the top edge unstitched. Turn inside out, taking care to turn pocket through so the velcro is on show.
3
From three contrasting fabrics cut a rectangle from each: a bottom piece, 10cm x 15cm, a top 5cm x 15cm and another top, 7cm x 15cm. Stitch the two tops together lengthways using a 1cm seam allowance. Take the bottom piece and lay the two inished pocket tabs directly on top, raw edges to edges with pockets facing upwards.
4
Lay the stitched two tone rectangle on top of these, right side facing down. Pin and stitch around, leaving a 5cm gap on the back edge for turning. Turn inside out and ill irst with toy stuing, moving it towards the top for the pincushion and inishing with baking beads at the bottom. Slipstitch small stitches to close the gap. Iron medium weight interfacing to the reverse of the outer and lining fabric for the thread catcher.
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From each fabric mark and cut out one rectangle,13cm x 28cm, and one circle, 10cm. Take the outer fabric and, with right sides facing, bring the two shortest edges together and stitch using a 1cm seam allowance. Iron seam open. Pin the outer fabric circle into place at one end of the tube, with right side facing inwards. Stitch around the circle diameter using a 0.5cm seam allowance. Fold down the top edge of the tube 1cm and press with an iron to hold in place. Turn inside out.
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Line up the velcro dots on the pocket tabs to adjacent positions at the back of the thread catcher and stitch in place. Repeat the construction process for the thread catcher with the lining fabric but don’t turn inside out. Slot the lining into the outer and slipstitch in place to inish.
In association with
Storage essentials
1 Haberdashery house shelving unit, £22.95, themakery.co.uk
2 Seaside navy bias binding, £1 per metre, higgsandhiggs.com 3 Pastel and nautical buttons, from 10p each, thecheapshoptiptree.co.uk
8 Vintage crafts travel sewing kit, £4.95, dotcomgiftshop.co.uk
12 Korbond three-tier fastener pack, £3.99, amazon.co.uk
9 John James needle pebbles, £1.75 each, jjneedles.com
13 Pink and silver jute cord, 95p per metre, josyrose.com
6 Royal stripe picot lace edge bias binding, £1.20 per metre, higgsandhiggs.com
10 Bobbin case, £2.85, groves @stockistenquiries.co.uk
5 Pink stripes starter kit, £13.55, sewing-online.com
11 Metal bobbins, £1.35 for three, groves@ stockistenquiries.co.uk
6 Fuchsia polka dot trim, £3, thebolttree.com
14 Bobbin box, £14.79, sewing-online.com
top tip
7 Strawberry scissor pouch, £8.49, sewing-online.com
Display your threads in rainbow colour order for a stunning display that makes it easy to find the shade you need!
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3 6
7
4
8
5 11 9
10 14
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In association with
Create a
full-length 3 garment carrier
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Cut main and contrast fabrics, 35cm x 1m. Place one piece face down over a long zip, lining up the edges. Sew close to the teeth using a zipper foot. Unfold from the zip and press, before top-stitching 3mm from the fold in a matching thread. Repeat for the other edge of the zip, lining up the pattern of the fabric as closely as possible.
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From the leftover fabric cut two pieces, 5cm square. Fold each in half, right sides together, and stitch down the long edge. Turn the tube right side out and fold in half lengthways to make a tab. Sew the raw ends of each tab across the ends of the zip so the folded edges sit over the stopper and pull.
Cut two pieces of contrast fabric, 20cm x 70cm. Sew a panel to the top and bottom of the zipped section, right sides together. Fold out and press the seams to the contrast side. Topstitch in place, 3mm from the seam. From the leftover fabric, cut a piece, 5cm x 15cm. Fold in half, right sides together, and sew to make a tube.
4
Turn the tube right side out, fold in half and tack to the centre of the bottom contrast panel, lining up the raw edges. Fold the completed panel in half along the zip. Lay a coat hanger over the fold of the top contrast panel, and cut a long triangle from the outer corners to correspond with the angle of the hanger. Flatten the panel and trim the edges if necessary, then cut a piece of white cotton sheeting the same size.
5
Tuck in and sew a 5mm double hem at the top centre of the panels. Pin the two panels right sides together. Stitch all the way round, except for the hemmed top. Clip the corners, undo the zip and turn the cover right sides out. Press the seams, before top-stitching 1cm from the edge to neaten the bag.
In association with
4 full-length Sew a
design
1
Cut two pieces from main fabric, 35cm x 66cm, and two pieces of contrast material, 35cm x 38cm. With right sides together, sew the contrast pieces to the main panels on the 35cm edges, ensuring the orientation of one section matches the other. Press the seams to the contrast side, and top-stitch 3mm from the seam.
Pin the two pieces, right sides together. Sew around three sides, leaving the bottom edge open. Clip the corner and turn the garment bag right sides out. Turn up and double-hem the bottom edges of the bag to line up with the bottom of the zip. Press and topstitch the other three edges of the bag, 1cm in from the seam.
2
Place one piece face down over a long zip, leaving a 1.5cm overlap at each end. Line up the edges and sew close to the teeth using a zipper foot. Unfold the fabric from the zip and press. Top-stitch 3mm from the fold in a matching thread. Repeat for the other edge of the zip, lining up the pattern of the fabric as closely as possible.
3
Fold the completed panel in half along the zip. Lay a coat hanger over the fold of the top contrast panel, and cut a long triangle from the outer corners to correspond with the angle of the hanger. Flatten the panel and trim the edges if necessary. Cut a piece of white cotton sheeting that is the same size.
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“Mum was definitely the driving force at the start of my crafting life, and she’s still one of my biggest fans!”
At home with...
T
SEW MAGAZINE 66
his month there are lots of reasons to enjoy a celebration or two! Craft Business Magazine has just named me as one of the top craft inluencers of 2019; it’s such a huge honour to join such creative luminaries as Kelly Hoppen and Kirstie Allsopp! I love having a behind-the-scenes role in the craft industry, conjuring up fabrics and products for market, in addition to my more public role. When designing, I take a lot of inspiration for my makes from the colour schemes Mother Nature sends my way. I igure if it looks good outdoors, who am I to argue? On the subject of mothers, it’s Mother’s Day on the 31st March and the perfect excuse to spoil our mums and show them how important they are to us. My mum introduced me to so many of the things that bring me pleasure: knitting, sewing, cookery and gardening are all passions of mine, and she was the person who showed me the ropes and encouraged me to learn and develop these skills. She always regarded these things as essential life skills rather than hobbies, and has always struggled with the idea of sewing for pleasure – although she knows there are thousands of us who would rather be crafting than just about anything else, it’s a pretty alien concept to her. Nevertheless, Mum was deinitely the driving force at the start of my crafting life and she’s still one of my biggest fans! Mother’s Day is always spent together because the one thing we both value more than anything is spending time with each other. Mum isn’t one for gifts, and she’s really hard to buy for, but we both know that sharing the day is pretty much priceless.
My fellow judges at last year’s Dressmaker of the Year
george.com
STUART HILLARD
Juliet was crowned top sewer in the first episode, but who will be the final winner?
Mother’s Day, Easter...this month, it’s any excuse for a party!
Who wil be our winer? We’ll soon be celebrating the winner of this year’s The Great British Sewing Bee after its very welcome and longed for return. I wonder if the winner will be the person we picked out on week one, or whether it will be the grower? It’s always such fun to see the emerging personalities and who will keep their nerve. The ten new contestants this year have faced all kinds of new and exciting challenges and I’m thrilled to see one of the weeks devoted to a ‘reuse and re-make’ theme. Sewing your own clothes is great news for the creative side of everyone but it can also be a beneit to our planet. The Bee has such an energising efect on many of us, inspiring us to try new patterns, styles, fabrics and even outits we’ve never attempted before. Seeing the contestants make challenging garments in a very limited amount of time can be scary to watch but there’s also a rather encouraging message behind the drama. If it can be done under that kind of pressure in that short amount of time, then surely we have a ighting chance to do something similar at home with more time and the absence of a ilm crew!
A few Rainbow Etchings scraps from a quilt I’m making
Dresmaker of the year Talking of things you might have sewn at home, I’m gearing myself up to join my fellow judges for this year’s Dressmaker of the Year competition, and I can’t wait! Previous winner Portia Lawrie, Sew Magazine Editor Lucy and Strictly Come Dancing’s costume maestro Vicky Gill are joining me again this year, and I’m thrilled to be working with the sewing legend Debbie Shore and Doctor Who costume designer, Ray Holman, too. We are an eclectic bunch with vastly diferent experiences of dressmaking and sewing, but we all share a common goal: to ind the very best dressmaking skills and crown our winner for 2019. Whatever reasons you have to celebrate this month, I hope you have a creative and fun time doing it!
Stuart x
You can check in with Stuart on createandcraft.com, channels Virgin 748, Freeview 23, Freesat 813 and Sky 683, or visit @stuarthillardsews on Instagram
www.online-fabrics.co.uk
388-394 Foleshill Road, Coventry, West Midlands CV6 5AN
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Suppliers of mail order fabrics for over 40 years we source beauiful fabrics from Britain, Europe and rest of the world. 10% o with Code SEWMAGAPR
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Invite spring into your home with a
Get started l Patterned fabric scraps l Linen, 42cm square l Green gingham, 20cm squar l Wool blanket fabric l Fusible interfacing l Embroidery thread l Pillow pad, 40cm
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rabbit cushion As the days become longer and the nights get lighter, we can wave goodbye to winter and welcome the beginnings of spring – and what better way to usher in the new season and celebrate Easter than by adding a comfy cushion to your home? In just six simple steps, you’ll have mastered the art of patchwork to whip up a beautiful bunny pillow created by Christiane Bellstedt Myers, author of Seasonal Scandi Crafts.
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small nose onto the rabbit using a contrasting colour.
Iron fusible interfacing onto the wrong side of the wool blanket fabric and the material you have chosen for the egg. Download and print the template from sewmag.co.uk, then use an erasable pen to draw a rabbit onto the right side of the wool blanket piece and mark egg shape onto your chosen patterned scrap.
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Cut out the two shapes. Peel the backing paper away from the egg and position it on the gingham square. Use an iron to fuse the fabrics together and do the same with the rabbit, making sure it’s positioned on the right side of the gingham square.
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Using two strands of pale cream embroidery thread, blanket stitch around the rabbit and egg. Stitch a
Cut out and assemble the pieces of material for the front of the pillow. Cut four fabric strips, 12cm x 42cm, then machine- or hand-sew them to the centre panel to make a wide border. The finished front piece should be 42cm square. Press all of the seams open. Place the front and back pieces, right sides together, and pin. Sew all around the edges with a 1cm seam allowance, leaving a gap in one edge to insert the pillow pad. Trim the seam allowances and press the seams open, then turn the cover to the right side and insert the pillow pad. Use slip-stitch to close the opening.
home & gifts
get the book For more sweet projects like this one, check out Seasonal Scandi Crafts by Christiane Bellstedt Myers (£12.99, CICO Books). Photography by Caroline Arber.
$ TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD SEW MAGAZINE 69
sewmag.co.uk/templates
Confessions of a sewing adict Corinne reveals what goes on behind the scenes at The Crafts Channel
“One thing I really enjoy about these videos is seeing the feedback from our viewers in the comments section on social media” Ah, the season of brighter evenings is upon us, giving extra hours of natural light to sew by and less temptation to stop stitching at 5:45pm just because it feels like bedtime! I’m always shocked (and frustrated) when I look at a project the next morning and ind that the perfect colour match is really about three shades of. Sunshine in the morning is a blessing, too; no more procrastinating for an extra hour and a half under the duvet because it’s just not light enough to wake up properly – I don’t know about you, but it makes a world of diference to my workload, too. I say ‘workload’, it’s not really a load and it certainly doesn’t feel like proper work. The most arduous task is sitting at a keyboard trying to remember how I made something so it can go into print. Often there are no words to efectively describe
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TRY OUT ONE OF CORINNE’S NEW PROJECTS AND LET HER KNOW WHAT YOU THINK ON FACEBOOK @THECRAFTSCHANNEL
the process of putting something together without continually repeating the mantras ‘right sides together’, ‘matching raw edges’ and ‘add a 5mm seam allowance’. Being able to demonstrate how something its together is incredibly useful for beginners, that’s why the videos we put on The Crafts Channel’s YouTube have become an invaluable way of showing people how easy getting creative can be. We ilm in real time with very little editing, so you get to see what can go wrong when I don’t pay attention – I don’t know if you’ve noticed, but I’m always trying to sew without turning the machine on irst! One thing I really enjoy about these videos is seeing the feedback from our viewers in the comments section on social media. They usually come up with an easier way of doing something, but more often than not they’ll just thank us for how much
A backstage pass to The Crafts Channel simpler we’ve made their crafting lives! Everything we demonstrate on YouTube needs to it into a time slot that’s less than 20 minutes, so if you’ve never tuned in, then don’t expect me to upholster a sofa or stitch a wedding dress! But if you’re looking for a straightforward way of using up all of those fabric oddments, we have lots of ideas for you to try – many of them make great gifts! It was a wonderful feeling the other day when my friend came round to my house with her ive-year-old grandson to show me the mini oven mitt he’s made by watching ‘Auntie Corinne’ – start ‘em young I say!
Corinne x SPRING IS HERE! SO WHY NOT WHIP UP SOME SWEET DECORATIONS FOR EASTER? SEWMAG.CO.UK
TAKE CORINNE’S ADVICE AND START ‘EM YOUNG WITH THIS CUTE BLUEBIRD CRAFT KIT! £18, NOTONTHEHIGHSTREET.COM
CHECK OUT THESE MINI OVEN GLOVES CREATED BY ‘AUNTIE CORINNE’ AT YOUTUBE.COM/ THECRAFTSCHANNEL
SEE CORINNE IN ACTION AT YOUTUBE.COM/THECRAFTSCHANNEL
home & gifts
4
ways with
Washington Street Studio
Easter is just around the corner, so why not celebrate in style with these four sweet makes? Each design is made from gorgeous vintage, ditsy loral fabric, which combines sunshine yellows, fresh greens, sea blues and Pantone’s Colour of the Year, coral. From these beautiful materials, our designer Corinne Bradd has whipped up an appliquÊ tote bag, three pom-pom egg cosies, bunnyinspired bunting, and a cute rabbit named Bertie.
Get started l Fabric: Washington Street Studio Vintage 1930s Florals fat quarters; coordinating plain cotton; white cotton l Lightweight quilt wadding l Fusible adhesive sheet l Pom-poms, 20mm l White yarn l Buttons l Fibre illing l Coloured felt
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To purchase the Washington Street Studio Vintage range, visit eqsuk.com for stockists
Sew an
appliquĂŠ tote bag
1
Cut 32 assorted fabric prints, 9cm square, then sew right sides together to make two blocks of four by four squares. Press and topstitch onto 33cm squares of quilt wadding along the seam lines.
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Download and print the templates from sewmag.co.uk, then trace the rabbit onto a fusible adhesive sheet, cut out and iron onto a plain coloured cotton. Cut around the outline and peel away the backing paper before fusing to the centre of one patchwork panel. Run a small zig zag stitch in matching thread around the edge of the rabbit. Make a small pom-pom tail and sew in place, then add a small black button for the eye.
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Cut two plain cotton strips, 7cm x 75cm. Fold in half lengthways and sew two parallel rows of long, straight stitches on
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$ TEMPLATE
ways with
Washington Street Studio
DOWNLOAD
sewmag.co.uk/templates
the raw edges. Pull the ends of the top threads only to gather the fabric to 34cm. Tack the rufle to the top edge of each patchwork panel.
4
Cut two plain cotton strips, 6cm x 75cm. Fold in 5mm on each long edge before folding in half lengthways. Topstitch down both folded edges to make the straps. Tack a strap to each panel, matching the raw edges. Cut two printed cotton pieces, 6cm x 33cm, and stitch right sides together across the top of the panels to secure the rufle and straps. Remove any visible tacking stitches, fold the printed fabric up, press and topstitch the seam.
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Pin the two patchwork panels right sides together, matching up the seams at the sides. Sew around three sides leaving the top open. Cut white cotton, 38cm x 68cm, fold in half to make a lining, then sew down the long side and across the bottom, leaving a 10cm gap in the centre bottom.
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Slip the lining over the bag, right sides together. Pin the top raw edges together and sew, taking care not to catch the strap. Turn the bag out through the hole in the lining. Fold in the raw edges of the hole and topstitch closed before pushing the lining inside the bag. Press and topstitch the top edge of the bag.
Create
egg cosies SEW MAGAZINE 72
1
$ TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD
sewmag.co.uk/templates
Download and print the templates from sewmag.co.uk, then cut out two egg cosy shapes from printed cotton, lining and wadding. Attach the wadding to the back of the printed cotton with zig zag stitch before sewing the outer fabric right sides together, leaving the bottom lat edge open. Sew the lining in the same way, but leave a 5cm gap in the top.
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Cut four ear pieces from a diferent printed cotton and sew right sides together in pairs, leaving the bottom edge open. Clip the curves and turn out. Pleat the bottom edge, turn the outer fabric right sides out and tack the ears to the bottom, matching the raw edges.
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Slip the lining over the outer fabric, match up the bottom raw edge and sew around, securing the ears as you do so. Turn out the cosy through the gap in the lining before folding in the raw edges of the hole and topstitching closed. Push the lining inside the cosy and sew a neat running stitch around the edge.
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Make a pom-pom from pale coloured yarn and attach it to the top of the cosy. Fold the ears back against the cosy, arranging as desired. Secure them in position with a few hand stitches through all the layers of fabric.
Stitch Bertie the Bunny Download and print the templates from sewmag. co.uk, then trace the pieces onto the back of printed fabric and cut out, adding a 5mm seam allowance. Pin the ears, right sides together, onto a scrap of lightweight wadding and sew around the edges leaving the bottom open. Clip away the excess wadding before turning out, then fold in 5mm around the bottom edge and tack.
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Pair up the legs, right sides together, and stitch around the edges leaving the base of the foot open. Clip the curves, turn out and fold in 5mm around the base of the foot. Firmly stuf with ibre illing before closing up the leg by oversewing a felt oval to the folded edge. Remove the tacking stitches.
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Sew the arms, right sides together, leaving a 3cm gap in the back of each one. Clip the curves and turn out. Firmly stuf before folding in the raw edges of the gap and slip-stitching closed. Oversew the small felt ovals to the front of each paw.
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Sew one side of the head gusset to one body piece. Stitch the darts in the bottom of each body piece before matching them up and sewing right sides together, leaving a 5cm gap in the back seam. Clip the curves and turn out. Stuf irmly before folding in the raw edges of the gap and slip-stitching closed.
4
home & gifts
$ TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD sewmag.co.uk/templates
Cut a large oval of felt and oversew to the front of the tummy, stretching it slightly as you do so to it the curve. Using button joints and extra strong thread, attach the limbs to the body by sewing from button to button through the limbs and body. Make a pom-pom from white yarn and stitch to the bunny’s bottom.
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Squeeze the base of each ear so the side seams meet up, then pin. Slip-stitch the ears to the top of the head along the lines of the gusset, and use small stitches to hold them upright. Sew pairs of small, stacked buttons halfway down the head as eyes and add a small pink heart-shaped button to the tip of the nose.
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Thanks to Laura Innes for helping us name our mascot! We hope you enjoy your prize – a set of Madeira threads! Help us with suggestions for next month’s toy at facebook.com/sewhq
$ TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD sewmag.co.uk/templates
Make bunny bunting Download and print the templates from sewmag. co.uk, then trace the bunny onto a fusible adhesive sheet, lipping half the images over so that the bunnies face diferent directions. Cut out the shapes, then iron them onto the back of various printed fabrics. Cut out and peel away the backing paper.
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Cut matching rectangles of plain white cotton and pin the appliqué panels
Create the top binding and suspension cord at the same time by binding a continuous strip to the back of the work, leaving a 5cm gap in between each pennant. As you fold and topstitch the binding to the front of the bunting, fold in the raw edges of the gaps and topstitch.
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Cut plain yellow cotton rectangles, 14cm x 20cm. Fuse the bunnies on the centre of each piece and secure with a small zig zag stitch in yellow thread. Stitch a 20mm pom-pom to the centre back of each bunny.
on top. Cut several 3cm wide strips of printed cotton and join end to end. Use the strips to bind each rectangle on three sides by sewing to the back of the rectangles, then press over to the front, folding under 5mm on the raw edges and topstitching in place.
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We’re better
TOGETHER
Discover why it pays to join in with the crafting community
Getting connected within the crafting circle can enrich your life in so many ways; sharing your skills and innovative ideas helps budding sewers and seasoned stitchers alike, and for some, it’s been proven to kick-start a muchneeded boost to mental wellbeing. If you’re a friend in need, or simply want to quell a craving for creativity, then going to a workshop or even joining an online community may be just the solution you’re looking for. So sign up today, and you never know, you might just make a new best crafting buddy!
Words by Sophie Demetriades
Where to start?
John Bloodworth, founder of gentleman crafter minded crafters who are supportive and help to boost my conidence, plus it’s always useful to pick people’s brains for sewing advice! If you’re worried about your irst visit to a workshop, then Linsey advises that you make sure you’re organised beforehand: “Plan your route and where you’re going to park – this should help relieve any unnecessary stress. But all in all, just go for it! You have nothing to lose, and you might even ind a new best friend.”
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It can often be daunting when you’re going to try something new or put yourself into a situation with lots of people you’ve never laid eyes on before, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t give it a go! All-round crafting enthusiast and founder of the Gentleman Crafter, John Bloodworth, has some top advice on how you can overcome your fears and get involved: “Over the years my focus has shifted back and forth from technique to technique, however, whether working in the craft industry, or in other ields as I did when leaving education, I have always had something creative going on. “If creativity hasn't been a part of your life so far, then the broad spectrum of techniques, materials and sources of inspiration these days can be
overwhelming for a newcomer as there is so much choice available. It’s also likely that you’ve been prompted to have a go at something because you've seen it somewhere and thought, 'I’d love to make that, but I don’t know how'. Well, fear not, the crafting community is here to help! “To prevent stumbling at the irst hurdle, my recommendation is to start by attending a beginner’s workshop. It makes it a lot less scary, as the chances are you’ll all be in the same boat, plus it will give you the opportunity to try out new things together, sample the tools and materials, and ask the tutor questions.” Linsey Williams, founder of Dolly’s Haberdashery & Sewing School also highlights the beneits of crafting as group: “I love getting creative with others not only for the social aspect, but because I get to spend time with other like-
Share the love
If you fancy adding a bit more structure to a crafternoon event and doing a good deed at the same time, then Mind host two of these sessions a year, one during summer and the other around Christmas. Here’s a few tips to get you started: l Choose who you want to invite and where to host your event; most people usually opt for the comfort of their own home, but you can always choose somewhere different such as your favourite park – as long as the weather holds out! l Next, you’ll
need to sign up by simply illing out the form on the website, then you’ll be sent a crafternoon kit with the essential templates you need to create your project.
l Decide
how much you’d like your pals to donate – remember, it’s all for a good cause!
Stay connected If going along to a workshop isn’t your thing, or you simply can’t physically get to one, then don’t worry, there’s so many other ways you can get involved.The world wide web is a hive of activity for like-minded crafters, containing online forums and channels where you can touch base with fellow makers, share the projects you’re proud of, and source solutions to any dressmaking dilemmas, just as if your sewing buddies are in the room with you – well, almost! Linsey recommends this as a way you can get involved outside of going along to a course: “Follow sewing schools and groups on social media.There’s always great hints and tips on their pages, plus they usually have a ‘chat’ section where you can ask questions or just get to know other crafters.” Alternatively, if you’re not tech-savvy then perhaps a stay-at-home crafternoon session is more up your street. John goes into detail about how you
Sign me up! l CRAFT THERAPY Grab a PAUSE package or set up your own crafternoon event with a little help from Mind. mind.org.uk
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l GO TO MARKET Check out this one-stop spot for local workshops and clubs across a huge range of crafts, from sewing and knitting, to calligraphy and sculpturemaking. obby.co.uk
can organise your own: “Grab your bestie and ind a complete kit for the technique that you want to work on, then try it together.This way you have all of the pieces and instructions needed in the one place, plus you can help each other out along the way. It will also give you the opportunity to have a go at something before committing to illing your home with supplies.” Not sure where to buy a kit from? For ledgling stitchers, Sew recommends starting small with a quick and easy project from Not On The High Street; it sells everything from easy embroidery and cross stitch sets, to English paper piecing and knicker-making kits! For those of you who simply want to try your hand at any craft, then check out the latest subscription package from the Mind charity; it's just released its irst-ever £7.50 PAUSE package which contains all of the essentials you need to create origami for beginners, plus you don’t even need to leave the house as the parcel will be delivered straight to your door – even better!
However, if you and your friends already dabble in crafting but are looking for an excuse to get everyone together for more than just a catch-up and a cuppa, then a fabric swapping party is a fantastic idea. It’s also a great way to assess your stash and make room for some, perhaps unnecessary, new materials – but hey, no one’s judging here! Trading fabric with friends is a wonderful way to get all of your pals together, plus it’s fun, inspiring and best of all, it can take the weight off your wallet! If you’ve never hosted one before, then start by sending out some personalised invites to all of your besties and let them know what it is you want everyone to swap; this can be anything from a certain type of fabric to haberdashery and crafty tools. Once you’ve got the invites sent out and have stocked up on those all-essential drinks and nibbles, you’re all set to go – it’s really as simple as that!
l LONDON CALLING Discover the crafty classes taking place in the big smoke. londoncraftclub.co.uk l GIRL POWER The Women’s Institute is renowned for its craft events, with workshops and activities taking place at many of its regular meetings. thewi.org.uk l SEW, OF COURSE! Where would you be without us, eh? Join our community online @sewhq on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram. sewmag.co.uk
Mind’s new PAUSE subscription
More than just a hobby… “I’d noticed an old school friend had been For some, crafting is a lifeline, posting pictures on social media of garments she’d a method to build new made for her daughter at Dolly’s Haberdashery & friendships and a way to Sewing School, and I thought this was just the thing overcome all kinds of ailments. I needed. I hadn’t sewn anything since GCSE textiles Sew reader Hannah Bond in high school, but upon messaging Dolly’s any shares her story on how concerns I had were put at ease. stitching has helped her “I started a six-week garment-making course, through some dificult Stitching enthusiast, attending every Thursday evening. I began by making times: “I’ve always been an Hannah Bond a harlem baby grow and, with some help and energetic, active person; guidance, it was a success! I started to look forward for example, in April last year I ran my fourth to Thursday evenings, and before I knew it I had marathon to raise money for Alder Hey Children’s made two baby grows and a Hospital in Liverpool. Soon sweet dress for my seven-yearafter the run I found out I “Going along to old niece. was expecting my irst baby “Going along to these these sessions has – my husband and I were sessions has become more than thrilled! However, pregnancy become more than just something to do; I’ve met sickness stepped in pretty quickly, and over the weeks just something to do; some brilliant people from all walks of life with some amazing it got increasingly worse with no signs of ceasing, and I’ve met some brilliant stories to share, and any feelings of low mood have lifted over as a result I lost weight and people from all the weeks struggled to stay hydrated. walks of life” thanks to I was then diagnosed with the chatter, hyperemesis gravidarum, warmth and laughter of the which meant even a few sips of water would induce a 30-minute prolonged session in the bathroom.This girls. I now have a new-found love for all things sewing, made me scared to be away from home, so I rarely and I cannot thank them ventured out of the house. enough for all they’ve “I realised that all of my hobbies were based done – I don’t think they around physical activity which was now completely will ever realise how impossible, so time started to go by slowly. Hours much of a positive felt like days, days felt like months, and I began to Hannah’s first impact they have had feel isolated and lonely – I knew I needed to do handmade baby grow on my life.” something to help my mental health during such a tough time.”
Dare to share “I started sewing two years ago after having back surgery and, after a dificult recovery, my mental health began to deteriorate. To get me out of a dark place my husband bought me a sewing machine – I’ve never looked back since!” Sarah Louise Hague
“I’ve met some amazing women through sewing classes and have made friends for life. I really look forward to hanging out with the ladies and having a good laugh!” Sharon
“My two friends and I regularly meet up and we take it in turns to host at one of our houses. We usually have a meal, then get stuck into our sewing. My friend Lorraine Lawler Ronalson is a quilter, and Maureen Pearson and I are both into dressmaking.” Lorraine Marshall
“I started attending sewing tuition to boost my conidence in skills I had forgotten. My teacher, Susan Moore, has become a very dear friend and has taught me so much more than just dressmaking.” Sara Smith
“My best friend is a cross-stitcher, which is a hobby we share. I have always been into dressmaking, especially when I was an RAF wife. We all made our own ball gowns and helped each other out. I now belong to the local knit and stitch club and the wonderful Sewing in the UK Facebook group.” Jo Donnelly
Tell us about how you get involved in the crafting community @sewhq on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram
SEW MAGAZINE 77
Visit backstitch.co.uk
FRIDAY 26 APRIL £35
Dressmaking Technique: Shirts & Blouses This workshop is a helpful starting point for any new dressmakers who want to whip up garments for their handmade wardrobe. The class will focus on developing your theoretical sewing knowledge, as well as practising how to set a sleeve, create a cuf and make a collar for a shirt or blouse.
MONDAY 13 MAY £60 Introduction to Weaving Why not get creative and learn something new? This weaving class requires no previous experience, so it’s ideal for beginners, plus all you need to do is bring your own yarn and Backstitch will provide the rest! During the lesson, you’ll discover how to warp a loom, start and end each weft, create a basic tabby weave, and make rya knots and loops.
& LEARN
Stitch
Backstitch, Cambridge
Advance your stitchy skills Sew in Brighton, East Sussex Visit sewinbrighton.co.uk
SATURDAY 29 JUNE £69
WOW! Only £30
SATURDAY 6 APRIL £30
SATURDAY 22 JUNE £67 Raglan Satin Front Tee
SEW MAGAZINE 78
Free Motion Quilting If you’ve created a quilt and would like to add a decorative touch to inish it of, then this class is a must! In the lesson, the tutor will cover a range of free motion designs, including stippling, loops, stars and hearts, as well as echo quilting. Plus, all you need to bring with you is a sketchbook, pencil and a few of layers of cotton and wadding so you can practise irst.
Head along to Sew in Brighton’s workshop to become a pro at stitching with slippery satin, elegant lace and stretch jersey. In the lesson, you’ll discover how to read a pattern, sew with challenging fabrics, create neck and cuf bands, and practise overlocking. To top it of, by the end of the class you’ll have a gorgeous satin-front t-shirt to take away with you, too!
Cardigan: Sewing with Knits Whip up a cosy cardigan in this helpful workshop! The class will have you feeling conident when working with knit fabrics, and you’ll be provided with handy tools, such as a jersey needle, twin needle hem, and wonder tape, plus useful techniques to inish of your new wardrobe staple.
promotion Ministry of Craft, Manchester Visit ministryofcraft.co.uk
Sew Your Own Capri Trousers
SATURDAY 27 APRIL £67.50
SATURDAY 27 APRIL £67.50
Look sharp in a pair of stylish handmade capri bottoms! By the end of the course, you’ll have mastered how to sew waist darts, attach a facing, stitch an invisible zip and create a tapered leg. The cigarette trouser is a must-have for any wardrobe, once you’ve learned how to make them once you’ll be able to recreate them again and again!
Clone Your Closet We all have those go-to garments we wear every week, but what do you do when it’s getting tired and worn out? That’s where SATURDAY this workshop comes in! Expert dressmaker 20 APRIL Jeanette Archer will guide you through how £49.50 to make an exact replica of your favourite clothes by tracing the garments and transferring vital details such as darts, pleats and pockets. Sew Your Own Tunic Dress or Top Want to make your own clothes but aren’t sure where to start? This handy workshop is ideal for budding dressmakers, as the class teaches you how to use a pattern block and cut fabric accurately, plus you’ll learn techniques such as creating darts, hems and professionally-inished seams, to name a few.
with these handy courses
Great for beginners!
Adult Learning, Lewisham
THURSDAY 2 MAY £132
Visit lewisham.gov.uk/adultlearning
Clothes Making
For beginners and experienced sewers alike, this class is ideal! On the course, you’ll learn all of the key skills needed to construct a garment, from cutting out pattern pieces, itting and stitching, to choosing the right materials and pressing. At the end of the 11-week session, you’ll come away with a perfectly-itted dress, top, skirt or pair of trousers.
Patchwork & Quilting
WED 1 MAY £87 Home Furnishing Workshop
Want to add a personalised touch to your home? Then you’re in luck! Head along to this workshop for the chance to practise cutting, sewing, pattern matching and handinishing techniques to make your very own cushions, blinds, curtains and so much more over a six-week course.
SEW MAGAZINE 79
Not only will this course teach you patchworking and quilting techniques on a sewing machine, but it will also show you traditional handstitching methods, too. You’ll discover how to measure, cut and assemble fabrics, as well as create your own design and learn decorative techniques to add the inishing touch to your project.
TUES 4 JUNE £77
4 Easy Steps... 1
First log in or sign up to the Sew website at sewmag.co.uk for FREE. Find the tab circled at the top.
free pattern downloads! Excited for the royal baby to arrive? Celebrate with these quick tiny tot makes! Head to sewmag.co.uk and follow our ‘4 Easy Steps’ panel to get started You can also locate the templates for this issue and all of our previous issues at sewmag.co.uk/ templates
liberty vest
2
Search for a pattern by title, according to the project names opposite. Click on the search tab.
3
Click the ‘Download Template’ button, which you will find under the main image.
maternity tunic Issue 122 April 2019
baby’s first cloth book
4 SEW MAGAZINE 80
Save the pattern PDF by right clicking to save on your computer, then print out (DON’T fit to the page!)
TILING DIGITAL PATTERNS Note that most digital patterns need to be ‘tiled’. This involves placing the A4 printouts in the correct order to form the pattern, as indicated – so get some sticky tape ready to join the sheets!
romper suit
directory • FABRICS • SEWING MACHINES • HABERDASHERY • PATTERNS
www.fabricland.co.uk Everything from Craft Cottons, through Polar Fleece to Lycra
tel: 01425 461444
To see our full range & find a stockist, please visit our website: www.adjustoform.com
Jin in e un!
o nline o ind yur local tre n ur map!
Dress, curtain, and patchwork fabrics. Haberdashery, buttons and quilting notions. And much, much, more. www.mandors.co.uk 134 Renfrew Street, Glasgow, G3 6ST
419 Barlow Moor Rd Chorlton Manchester M21 8ER MANCHESTER Tel: 0161 881 7960
If you would like to advertise on these pages, please call Anna on 01206 505932 or Hannah on 01206 505495
BIRMINGHAM
1 Moseley St Digbeth Birmingham B5 6JX Tel: 0121 622 6102
1000s of Rolls at Realistic Prices! Stockists of all kinds of • Fashion Fabrics • Woolens • Worsteds • Polywools • Polyesters • Cotton • Dance Wear • Linings • Bridal Wear • Satins • Suiting • Lycra and much, much more! Make-it enquiries@make-it.org.uk
www.leonsfabrics.co.uk
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Fill out the form or visit sewmag.co.uk/giveaways to win big today!
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THREE TO WIN!
When the thread catches, when the fabric tears, when the sewing isn't straight, we simply remember the Pretty Things pattern bundle, then we don't feel so bad! We're giving you the chance to win this fabulous set, worth £105, from Tilly and the Buttons which includes the loaty Seren dress, smart Martha frock and comfortable Fii pyjamas. Available at tillyandthebuttons.com
clothkits Top up your stash with some beautiful fabrics from Clothkits! Simply head over to the website with your 25% of* discount code SEWSPRING, and bag yourself an array of lovely materials, from soft cotton and lightweight linen, to delicate silk and sturdy denim. clothkits.co.uk *Valid from 4th March 2019 until 4th April 2019. Cannot be used in conjunction with sale items.
We have three bundles to give away. To enter, tick TILLY
WORTH OVER £225 Floral fabric and sunny weather go together as perfectly as a hot cuppa and chocolate biscuits – so wouldn't it be amazing if you won a bundle of it in time for the new season? Minerva Crafts has handpicked a selection of lowery prints that will inject a touch of spring into your garments. Available at minervacrafts.com
Freebies Behold! Every colour, pattern and motif you could possibly think of included in one brilliant collection! Anna Maria Horner's Tambourine fabric range for FreeSpirit Fabrics contains 24 fat quarters made from 100% cotton – this prize is ideal for all of your upcoming summery garments. Available at freespiritfabrics.com We have one bundle to give away. To enter, tick SPIRIT
We have three bundles to give away. To enter, tick MINERVA
SEW MAGAZINE 82
£150 OF PATTERNS
Introducing the how-to book that all beginner dressmakers should own! Author Bernie Tobisch, a sewing machine guru with over 42 years' experience, brings you a visual guide on how to use a machine, keep it in good order and solve common problems, plus the troubleshooting tips can be applied to every brand. Available at ctpub.com We have three books to give away. To enter, tick BOOK
THREE TO WIN!
I AM Apollon is your new favourite classic sweatshirt! This understated garment can be worn with a smart shirt peeping through the neckline or a T-shirt underneath for a relaxed look, and best of all, you can sew the pattern quickly and easily using just 1.5m of fabric! Available at iampatterns.fr We have 15 patterns to give away. To enter, tick APOLLON
Fill out the form or visit sewmag.co.uk/giveaways to win big today! We’ve teamed up with the organisers of The Creative Craft Show to ofer you the chance to win a pair of tickets to this fantastic event taking place in Birmingham this June! You'll be treated to over 100 stands selling the latest supplies and inspirational workshops, plus there will be plenty of experts on hand to share top tips. Available at ichfevents.co.uk We have 15 pairs of tickets to give away.To enter, tick TICKETS
WORTH £300!
crafter’s companion Fill up your stash and save some precious cash too by stocking up on new fabrics from Crafter’s Companion. Head over to the website and use discount code SEWMAG25 to save 25% on the whole Threaders fabric range. crafterscompanion.co.uk *Valid from 4th March 2019 until 4th April 2019. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other ofer.
Be in with the chance of winning over £1,400 of goodies!
& Offers You asked, we listened – this giveaway from Rebecca Page is a pattern bundle which includes sizes XXS to 5XL. Each PDF contains A4, US letter and A0 paper options with layers so that you can print just the size you need! Enter today to get your hands on a comfy cowl hoodie, party dress, tailored jacket and more! Available at rebecca-page.com
25% off*
WORTH OVER £200!
By combining diferent blocks of Named Clothing's Anni pattern, you can sew up to 60 outit variations! This wonderful prize includes a bodice with lattering princess seams and three neckline and sleeve variations, plus it also has two add-on blocks including a knee-length wrap skirt and a cross-over front top. Available at named clothing.com We have 10 patterns to give away. To enter, tick NAMED
We have one bundle to give away. To enter, tick REBECCA
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SEW MAGAZINE 83
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tea break
the BOOKS
we’re loving... Want to start your own business? Looking for an empowering pattern? Then check out our top picks!
Feminist Cross-stitch
Simple Tips Smart Ideas
by Stephanie Rohr
by Erica Wolfe-Murray
by Anna Joyce
by Virginia Lindsay
by Diane D. Knott
Cross-stitch has been in Stephanie’s life since she was a child, but it wasn’t until 2016 that she sought to inspire and encourage others with her witty one-liners and spirited slogan patterns. This book contains an illustrated basics section with information on materials, tools, techniques and framing, so it’s an ideal read for beginners. Lark Crafts, £14.99, larkcrafts.com
We know many of you would love to turn your sewing hobby into a career but are unsure how to do this, that’s why we’ve included Erica’s book! This helpful read draws on the experiences of hard-working individuals to offer tons of ideas to kick-start growth and outsmart your competitors! Lola Media, £14.99, lola-media.co.uk
The images in this book are so beautiful that it took us a couple of minutes to tear our eyes away and actually start reading! Explore traditional techniques like shibori and use organic compounds to dye anything and everything, including table linens, hammocks, lampshades and silk blouses. Out 26th March 2019. Abrams, £21.99, abramsbooks.com
Take your handmade business to the next level! Introducing another practical guide that contains everything you need to know to make a proit from your sewing, including industry expert advice, jargon-busting tricks, and 16 new projects that are completely copyrightand royalty-free, so you can customise them for craft fairs, online shops and beyond! Stash Books, £19.85, ctpub.com
Shhh... These quilting tricks are strictly between us! We’re just kidding, but Diane’s handy know-hows are so good you’ll want to keep them to yourself; the book teaches you how to bust your stash using fabric scraps to create 15 different designs – you’ll be whipping up quilts in no time with these thorough instructions. C&T Publishing, £21.30, ctpub.com
Hand Dyed
More Sewing to Sell
Strip Quilt Secrets
SEW MAGAZINE 85
who does what... Editor, Lucy Jobber lucy.jobber@aceville.co.uk 01206 505420 Deputy Editor, Sophie Demetriades sophie.demetriades@aceville.co.uk Editorial Assistant, Laura Wybrow laura.wybrow@aceville.co.uk Publishing Director, Helen Tudor Group Editor, Lynn Martin Advertisement Sales Hannah Suttling hannah.suttling@aceville.co.uk 01206 505495 Anna Spilsbury anna.spilsbury@aceville.co.uk 01206 505932 Sarah Collins sarah.collins@mspublications.co.uk 01206 506255 Jackie Weddell jackie.weddell@mspublications.co.uk 01206 506221 Jo Bluck jo.bluck@aceville.co.uk 01206 506253 Art Director, Phil Dunham Graphic Designers Gemma Eales, Cat Morton & Fiona Palmer Ad Production, Angela Scrivener Photography CliQQ Photography, cliqq.co.uk Models Kate, Delina, Courtney, BMA Models Fashion stylist, Boo Hill Hair and Make up, Dottie Monaghan Accounts, Denise Bubb 01206 505958 Subscription Enquiries/Back Issues 0330 333 0042 Website Enquiries webmaster@sewmag.co.uk Newstrade Sales Marketforce 0203 148 3300
your SEWING GUIDE Get to grips with the dressmaking basics! THE PERFECT FIT The key to successful itting is taking accurate body measurements to ensure you get the right size. Pattern sizes aren’t the same as high street clothing sizes, so don’t be tempted to skip this stage. Once you’ve taken your measurements, compare them to those on the pattern envelope or Size It Up panel over the page, then you can make any necessary alterations. Cut out the paper according to the size closest to the measurements you have selected, choosing the best it (for dresses, blouses and jackets) in the bust and shoulder, as this area is harder to adjust. If your waist or hip measurements are out of proportion according to the standard pattern size, then simply graduate in or out to reach the relevant waist or hip lines to your size.
l Measure yourself in your underwear, preferably in the bra you will be wearing. l Use a new tape measure as they can distort out of shape over time. l Ask a friend to help you, especially with tricky measurements such as your back-neck to waist and height. l Be honest with your measurements and remember that pattern sizes are totally diferent to ready-to-wear high street sizing. l Use your measurements to help you adjust the pattern to it your shape, not forgetting to take the required amount of ease into account.
Marketing Manager, Andrea Turner Senior Subscriptions Marketing Executive Laura Tebby sew@servicehelpline.co.uk
SEW MAGAZINE 86
Published by Aceville Publications Ltd 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 8JY © Aceville Publications Ltd.
Toy safety: please note that toys with small parts are not suitable for children under three years of age. If making a toy for a very young child omit any buttons and embroider the details instead. Babies should be supervised when playing with toys. All projects from this issue and the FREE online patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes. All patterns that are featured in Sew are reproduced in good faith that they do not infringe any copyright. The publishers are not responsible for any safety issues arising from any items created from projects contained within Sew magazine. While all possible care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all projects, we are not responsible for printing errors or the way in which individual work varies. Please read instructions carefully before starting construction.
TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS HIGH BUST FULL BUST
WAIST HIPS
Measure while in the underwear you will be wearing and hold the tape measure comfortably snug, but avoid pulling tight.
HEIGHT Standing against a lat wall without wearing shoes, measure from the loor to the top of your head. HIGH BUST Measure directly under the arms, straight across the back and above the bust. FULL BUST Take the tape measure around the fullest part of your bust and straight across the back. WAIST Tie a length of narrow elastic around the waist and let it settle naturally at your waistline, then measure over it. Keep the elastic handy for future garments. HIPS Measure around the body at the fullest part. This is usually 18-23cm below the waist.
Use our FREE pattern to make this pretty floral Maddie top at sewmag.co.uk!
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
SIZE IT UP Once you have your body measurements, choose the closest size from the chart below. Remember, there will be variations depending on which fabric and pattern you choose, so always make a toile irst.
READING A PATTERN The basic markings you will ind on commercial dressmaking patterns are important to familiarise yourself with. These marks indicate various techniques or steps and are best transferred onto your fabric pieces once you’ve cut them.
For size 8: Bust - 78cm Waist - 59cm Hip - 85cm Back neck to waist - 39cm
MULTIPLE SIZE CUTTING LINES
These lines indicate dress sizes. Highlighting yours can help with cutting.
For size 10:
GRAINLINE
Bust - 83cm Waist - 64cm Hip - 88cm Back neck to waist - 40cm
Align this mark with the grain of the fabric i.e. parallel to the warp (see below).
For size 12: Bust - 88cm Waist - 69cm Hip - 93cm Back neck to waist - 41cm
For size 14: Bust - 93cm Waist - 74cm Hip - 98cm Back neck to waist - 42cm
For size 16: Bust - 98cm Waist - 79cm Hip - 103cm Back neck to waist - 43cm
For size 18: Bust - 103cm Waist - 84cm Hip - 108cm Back neck to waist - 44cm
For size 20:
CAROLINE BOARDWELL REID, CROFT MILL
LENGTHEN/SHORTEN HERE
BUTTON / BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENTS
This is an opportunity to customise the pattern to your preferences.
These indicate where buttonholes should be made on a garment.
FOLD LINE
MISCELLANEOUS MARKINGS
NOTCHES
This mark indicates that the pattern piece should be positioned along the fold of the fabric, creating a larger ‘mirrored’ piece.
These come in a range of sizes and are used as points of reference on a pattern to indicate where pieces should be placed.
Match two pieces of fabric together at these points.
“To make a neckband, use a binding or tape maker to help you cut strips of fabric on the bias grain. Do this by feeding the strips into the gadget and pressing the creased edges as they come out. If you’re using a binding maker, then ensure that the material is the correct width for it; they come in a range of sizes and each one will tell you the width of the strip you need to cut. I usually use a 25mm binding maker as it’s great for finishing edges.” MAY MARTIN, SEWING PERSONALITY
PLACING YOUR PIECES With the paper pattern pieces facing up, place them onto the fabric. Some will need to be placed on the fold of the fabric (where it’s folded in half, giving you a mirrored piece), which will be indicated on the individual pattern pieces. Most patterns ofer a layout guide for the placement, according to the width of your fabric. This helps you get the most from your fabric, and avoids wastage. Pattern pieces that are not indicated to be placed on the fold need to be put on the material with the grainline arrow running parallel to the selvedge. Measure the distance from one end of the arrow to the selvedge, repeat for the other side of the arrow, and move the pattern piece until both measurements are the same.
SELVEDGES
UNDERSTAND YOUR FABRIC Getting to grips with your fabric is a fundamental part of sewing. Before you start, familiarise yourself with:
WARP These are the yarns that run the length of the fabric. They are stronger than weft yarns and less likely to stretch.
WEFT These run over and under the warp threads across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge. BIAS The bias grain runs 45° to the warp and weft of the fabric. Cutting garments on the bias creates a inished piece that will follow the contours of the body. SELVEDGE The non-fraying, woven edges that run parallel to the warp grain is the selvedge.
WARP
Pima Cotton Lawn – Lyla Rae, £14.25 per metre, croftmill.co.uk
WEFT FOLD
SEW MAGAZINE 87
“This lightweight cotton lawn has a ditsy floral design in hues of blue, pink, red and cream, which is perfect for whipping up a casual top for spring.”
TUCKS AND GATHERS
Bring these lines together before stitching.
S BIA
Bust - 108cm Waist - 89cm Hip - 113cm Back neck to waist - 45cm
BUST/HIP INDICATORS
Located at the bust and hip points on the pattern – make any necessary adjustments if yours don’t fall there.
Next month in
2 SIZES 6-24
PATTERNS INSIDE
*
READY TO RUFFLE FIT ‘N’ FLARE • Four fabulous of-theshoulder looks • Double layer the neckline, or customise with straps
• Stitch a skater sundress with a princess seam bodice • Choose from two sleeve options: short or three-quarter
• We go behind the scenes at the iconic fabric brand, Liberty London • Win a sewing machine, plus more incredible prizes • FREE 36-page bumper magazine inside! LOOK OUT! Our May issue is on sale 4th April 2019
SEW MAGAZINE 89
*Features subject to change
You’ll love our MAY ISSUE!
ark Bourdillon
Viplash/shutterstock.com
BBC/Love Productions/M
the master of the suit, patrick grant
daniel craig shops at bespoke tailors, kilgour
SAVILE ROW From London with love
piers brosnan, former james bond
Words by Laura Wybrow The name’s Row, Savile Row. For centuries, the figure of an English gentleman has been synonymous with Savile Row, and who better to embody this role than the 007 agent himself, James Bond? But before we lose ourselves in buttoned-up shirts, navy tones and double-breasted blazers, let’s flash back to 1846 when Henry Poole became the first man with a licence to thrill the suit-lovers of London. Tailoring emerged in the late 18th century, first along Cork Street in 1790 before moving to Savile Row in 1803. In 1846, Poole opened an entrance to Savile Row from his store’s original tailoring premises on Old Burlington street, and the boutique has remained at the esteemed No.15 address ever since. The prestigious Henry Poole & Co is credited for inventing the tuxedo, a midnight blue dinner jacket – yes, surprisingly the garment was never actually black! But it wasn’t just the tuxedo that originated from here, the word ‘bespoke’ was derived on the reputable road as clients believed that the cut, fabric and colour of a suit had to be tailored to a specific individual. When it
SEW MAGAZINE 90
Fabric Royale Take a leaf out of Alexander Lewis' book and opt for a British cloth to sew your suit in. Our top tartan picks from Croft Mill will ensure that your ensemble stays resilient and looks timeless! All fabrics are from croftmill.co.uk
Black and Yellow, £29 per metre
comes to creating a bespoke suit, director of Norton & Sons Alexander Lewis says: “An outfit takes a minimum of 80 hours to make and is a once in a lifetime experience for many. It is a very intimate process in some ways, and in others a type of ballet with a protagonist, the customer, and an ensemble of tailors creating a perfectlyfitted garment.”
Tailor Another Day Forget The Man with the Golden Gun, Savile Row is celebrated as the golden mile of suit making, so it’s no wonder that James Bond and the actors who played him rely on the street for their one of a kind fit! The iconic No.1 spot has housed Gieves & Hawkes since 1912, and has dressed some impressive customers over the years including Sir Charlie Chaplin, the Duke of Cambridge and Diamonds are Forever star, Sean Connery. Established institution, Kilgour also resides here and counts names like Cary Grant, Fred Astaire and the reigning Bond, Daniel Craig, among its clients.
Live and Let Sew If replicating Bond’s attire seems a little overwhelming, worry not as we’ve got just the techniques to help you achieve his quintessential look without cashing up a receipt in the double-ohs! Whether you’re stitching for yourself or for a man in your life, Alexander advises: “James Bond’s suit would be made from a British cloth with a durable, high-twist yarn as he wouldn’t want to look creased – I doubt Q would think to pack him a travel steamer! I would also include concealed pockets behind the lapel and in the shoulder seam – he’s James Bond, he needs to be discreet!” Patrick Grant, owner of Norton & Sons, also suggests: “When constructing a suit, everything needs to be done so meticulously. That said, I’d single out under and top pressing, perfectly-opened and elegant seams, neat edge-finishing and well-executed darts to achieve a crisp finish.” Follow our experts’ advice and diamonds won’t be the only thing that last forever – your suit will, too!
Muted Loden, £29 per metre
Muted Royal Stewart, £29 per metre
Denis Makarenko
StyleStory