Edition 12 – September 2020
Modern sewing starts here..
GIVEAWAY Pattern & Fabric
Win one of two sets of the Carolyn Pajamas pattern and fabric from the Cozy & Joyful fabric collection from Art Gallery Fabrics
wear the
TREND
3 necklines to sew this season
STYLE ARC
We catch up with this pattern company as its printed patterns become available in the UK
PICK OF THE PATTERNS The latest pattern releases to sew for autumn
Image features the Carolyn Pajamas from Closet Core Patterns made in fabric from the Cozy & Joyful collection from Art Gallery Fabrics
www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk
by Modelo Fabrics
t& gh ei s w r ti lou ul o M c
Springfield Denim
Springfield Denim is excellent quality and perfect for these Getaway Jeans by The Sewing Workshop Photo and make : Loopy Mabel
For more details and stockists visit www.modelofabrics.co.uk
Quality wearable fabrics
Editor’s Letter Hello You’ve probably noticed that the seasons are already starting to change, so in this issue, we bring you sewing projects to inspire you for the autumn. Sarah Ashford shares her ideas for making Halloween special with Art Gallery’s new collection Spooky ‘n Sweet. Take a look at her cute trick or treat bag that she’s made using these fabrics. There are so many gorgeous fabric collections out including fluffy flannels, crochet-masquerading fabrics and fun rayon prints. We look at just a few of them in our Focus on Fabrics feature. We also catch up with the team at Style Arc as its sewing patterns go into print in the UK. Stretch fabrics are a must-sew for autumn, Julie Bonnar shares some facts about them. We also focus on patterns for your summer-to-autumn wardrobe using these versatile knit fabrics.
Happy stitching! Hantex team
WIN
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www.hantex.co.uk www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk Subscribe free to get your copy – click here
SEW MUCH FUN WITH YOUR PHONE! Art Gallery Fabrics has just released a sewing emoji app! Now you can contact your friends and send fun little hand drawn AGF mojis that have been created especially for sewers, quilters and makers to share with one another! It requires iOS 12.4 or later, and is compatible with iPhone, iPad, and iPod touch. Why not use them on your Instagram stories too? Android users do not be disheartened a version for you is coming soon! To find out how to download – click here
#modernsewingstartshere
A HOME FOR DRESSMAKERS We talk to Rachel Walker and Kate Underwood – the sewing duo behind The Fold Line Tell us about what you were both doing before The Fold Line? We’re both keen creative types! Kate trained in millinery before she moved on to manage a sewing business in London. Kate then worked freelance doing creative marketing and social media consultancy for small businesses. I originally started my career in science, carrying out research projects at the Natural History Museum and Kew Gardens in London. I then started working at a sewing business managing wholesale and pattern production, before retraining in patterncutting and product design for
creative businesses. How did the business all start and how did you meet each other? We met when we worked together at a sewing cafe in London. With a surge in people starting to sew in recent years, pattern designers have responded to this renewed interest in sewing with an ever-growing number of new releases. As avid makers ourselves, we’ve struggled to keep up with all the pattern releases and growing number of bloggers sharing their makes and tips. We were inspired by the growing online sewing
community to build a home for everyone interested in dressmaking. From this The Fold Line was born, a place to share tips and ideas, and get lots of inspiration for your next make.
create a handmade wardrobe they love.
What advice would you give anyone that’s thinking about starting to make their own clothes? Starting any new hobby can What do you love the most be overwhelming but there about sewing and the sewing are lots of resources online community? to help you get started with We set up the business five dressmaking. First of all, you years ago and one of the will need a few basic supplies most wonderful things about including a sewing machine sewing is all the possibilities – ideally you could borrow of what you can make, from one from a friend or relative the choice of fabric to being to test out. able to fit clothes to our Cotton fabrics are the unique body shapes. We want easiest to start sewing everyone to feel represented, with as they have a bit of included, and inspired to structure so are easier to pin
together and put under the sewing machine. Buy some less expensive fabric for your first couple of projects or even use some old bed sheets or lightweight curtains to practice on. Choose a simple dressmaking pattern that has easy instructions. Sewing classes are also a fantastic way to meet other people who are learning to sew and get to grips with the basics too. Do you both have a sewing pattern that you love to make over and over again? The pattern we’ve both made time and time again is the Ogden Cami by True Bias, which must be the most popular pattern in the sewing community. This classic shape is timeless, and it also uses just over a metre of fabric making it a fantastic stash buster. The pattern features fine straps and a sleek clean finish around the neckline thanks to a facing. The pattern’s fit is great as it flares slightly from the bust. An updated version was recently released with a more inclusive size range and additional style options, making it a wardrobe staple for everyone.
How do you keep up with what’s happening in the sewing industry? We keep up-to-date with the latest news in the sewing industry in lots of ways, including following businesses on social media, signing up to newsletters and attending shows throughout the year. Facebook groups are also a great way to connect with other businesses and discover trends. Do you have any interesting facts about the sewing community you can share with us? We get asked a lot about what are the most popular indie patterns so we recently took a look at all the sewing patterns and here are the most made outfits in the sewing CONTACT community – click here. Kate Underwood and Rachel Walker For the keen makers, I’m sure a lot The Fold Line of these won’t be a surprise but there www.thefoldline.com were a few in there we hadn’t guessed!
New sewing pattern releases that you’ll want to sew!
CLOSET CORE PATTERNS
This indie pattern company has two new patterns – the Elodie Dress and Bianca Flight Suit. The Elodie is a modern romantic take on the classic wrap dress but has a variety of skirt and sleeve options making it the ideal garment for lots of occasions. All you need to do is decide on one of the gorgeous lengths - above the knee, midi or maxi! The Blanca Flight Suit is a customisable boilersuit pattern inspired by vintage work wear. It features patch pockets that double as belt loops, tie belt or buckled belt, a traditional shirt collar and a unique pleated back design. Just decide on a long sleeve, tapered sleeve with snap button, or short sleeve. To view these two new patterns and more from Closet Core Patterns – click here
SEW LIBERATED
GRAINLINE STUDIO
Grainline has extended the sizing on its popular Uniform Tunic. This top is designed as a ‘choose your own’ sewing pattern, and provides four options for you to mix and match! All you have to do is select your favourite neckline, decide between sleeves or sleeveless, and whether to add pockets. This printed pattern is now available in sizes 0-18 and 14-30. This indie pattern company also has a new pattern out. The Augusta Shirt & Dress Pattern comes in sizes 0-18 and 14-30. This pattern includes a lovely cocoon-shaped dress and shirt with an asymmetrical collar and a mitred split hem. With interchangeable short-cuffed sleeves or long straight sleeves – there are lots of options for the forthcoming season. To find your local stockist and view all the Grainline Studio patterns – click here
New to the Sew Liberated line up of printed patterns is the Strata Top and Lichen Duster. The Strata Top will become the backbone of your handmade wardrobe, and is a great pattern for beginners. It’s the perfect blank canvas to experiment with natural dyes and embroidery. It has just three pattern pieces so is easy to fit, as well as effortless to wear. We love the Lichen Duster; it’s so versatile and can be worn as a lightweight coat, wrap dress or robe. It has a contemporary shawl collar, princess seams, unique pockets, four skirt gores and hand-stitched facings making it a beautiful heirloom piece to sew. To find out more about Sew Liberated sewing patterns and find your local stockist – click here
Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk
Trendsetter Stick your neck out!
Take centre-stage this season with oversized necklines, bib-like collars and statement décolletages!
CONTRASTING YOKE PETER PAN
A collar is the ideal pattern piece to add embroidery or use a different coloured fabric. What’s unusual about this pattern is that the Peter Pan collar can be worn at the front or the back to give you lots of style options. To find out more about the Sudley Blouse & Dress from Megan Nielsen - click here
A big trend is the yoke collar but why not go all the way and make it in a complementary fabric so you really do stand out from the crowd! This dress or tunic features front and back pin tucks that extend from the fitted yoke with button detailing making a lovely decorative front placket. To view from the Anouk Dress & Tunic from Victory Patterns - click here
SQUARE UP!
The square neckline is such a flattering shape and is everywhere at the moment! Designed for knit fabrics, this top has front darts, a dolman silhouette and hem falls just below waistline. To find out more about the Square Neck Top from Friday Pattern Company – click here
Stretch your
SEWING
Julie Bonnar from The Pattern Pages shares things you ought to know about stretch fabrics! I love working with stretch fabrics. Garments made using them are super drapey, less fitted, and wash really well. However, they can be a little scary to work with if you haven’t sewn with them before!
FABRIC MAKE UP
Knit fabrics are made up of rows of interlocking yarn loops and also have a small percentage of elastic synthetic fibre like Lycra, Elastane, and Spandex (around 5%) running through. Depending on the production method, the fabric can have a two-way stretch or a four way stretch. Two-way stretch fabrics have either a warp or weft stretch. The stretch is less than 25%. The fabrics are comfortable to wear, and ideal for tops and dresses but are not suitable for making active or swimwear. Four-way stretch fabrics stretch in both directions – crosswise and longwise. Because of its better elasticity, they are great for sportswear.
4 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW
1. You’ll need to find out how much stretch your fabric has and how it reacts when it’s stretched. You will need to measure a 4in piece of fabric’s crosswise stretch to check for distortion. 2. Knit fabrics can suffer from pilling when worn and washed. You can test a fabric before buying by rubbing a swatch together to see what affect friction has on it. 3. These fabrics although don’t fray, the raw edges can roll up when cutting or washing. For knits that are more prone to this – finish raw edges with a topstitched hem and twin needle. This will produce a zigzag
stitch at the back that neatens the raw edge. 4. It is important to buy a quality knit fabric. Some knits can be quite rough on the skin, and usually the softer the feel, the better the drape. Both Modelo and Art Gallery Fabrics produce lovely collections of medium-weight knits in both prints and plains colours.
Knit Solids in Amaranth
Striped Alike in Aqua
TIPS FOR WORKING WITH KNIT FABRICS:
Best needles – Ballpoint/ Jersey/ Stretch Best presser foot Walking foot Best stitch – Narrow zigzag Perfect seams – Use a stay tape or knit interfacing within the seam to keep the seams from stretching out of shape. To view the selection of knit/jersey fabrics in different mixes and finishes that are perfect for tops, dresses, leggings and leisurewear – click here
Striped Sleek in Sun
Flower Stream Knit, Catch & Release by Mister Domestic
Hoxton Heathered Knit Jersey in Rust
Tech1 Parasols for swimwear in Blue
Sete Melange Summer Rib Knit in Navy
Tech1 Nimari Safari for activewear in Aqua-Navy
WARDROBE
fillers
Focus on your summer-to-autumn wardrobe with these versatile knit fabrics
LIESL + CO Dress up
This is such an elegant knit dress with a deceptively uncomplicated wrap detail. It features simple setin sleeves, as well as an easy-to-sew V-neck, and a front-slit skirt. The dress comes together quickly and is very comfortable to wear. Make with long or short cap sleeves. This dress would make an office-worthy or cocktail dress! To see more of the Belgravia Knit Dress by Liesl + Co – click here
Recomme nded for super stretch knit fabric s
ALLIE OLSON Fitted tees
The Kila Tank is a fitted tank top designed for stretchy rib knit fabrics. It has a slight racer back design that gives this top a sporty look, and a deep scoop neckline and bulk-free bound armholes, which mimic ready-to-wear techniques. This top is a handy addition to your wardrobe and can be tucked into high-waist trousers, overalls, and skirts and would also make a great pyjama top too. To find out more about this pattern from Allie Olson – click here
MADE BY RAE Casual trousers
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Since lockdown, it’s all about home comforts and the Luna Pants are the perfect loose-fitting trousers. With a tapered leg and a comfortable fit, they are quick to sew, and have inseam pockets. The pattern comprises of four main pieces, with facings that form the waistband. Choose a variety of prints and fabrics to style these for both casual and dressier occasions. You can also use woven lightweight cotton and linen blend fabrics such as voile, rayon challis, shot cotton, shirting, double gauze lawn, broadcloth, and chambray. To find out more about this sewing pattern from Made by Rae – click here
Choose stable knit s with 30% stretch or less su ch as jersey o r interlock
Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk
BOLD BABY CORDS The designer behind these beautiful bold designs is Kate Rhees. What’s surprising is that the fabric collection is 100% organic baby needlecord. Needlecord has had a bit of a comeback and we can’t wait to start sewing with them. Designs include swooning cranes, juicy pears, sly foxes and orange tabby cats!
n o s u c o F
To see more from A Walk Remembered fabric collection from Cloud9 – click here
FABRICS
Feast your eyes on the forthcoming fabric releases!
LAST OF THE SUMMER HUES
RAYON REVELATIONS Cloud9 has taken some of its best selling prints and re-worked them into a great range of rayon fabrics. Rayon is such a popular fabric with dressmakers and is such a lovely drapey fabric. The range features a wonderful mix of gorgeous florals and easy on the eye patterns. To find out more about Cloud9’s new rayon collection – click here
Prolong the summer months and set the mood with grounding emerald greens, blue tints, and vibrant reds. The Flowerette collection will help bring the garden into your home with delicate and cheerful florals that will inspire you to create a myriad of dashing projects. To view this floral collection from Art Gallery Fabrics – click here
DESERT GLOW The beauty of nature’s desert sunsets are glowing through in the Terra Kotta collection. This group of soft, minimalist prints were created to bring out the modern quilter in you with golden hues, and buttered neutrals painted with rough edges and expressive brushstrokes. To see more of the colourways available – click here
CROCHET VIBES
Home pyjama vector created by macrovector - www.freepik.com
Mathew Boudreaux of Mister Domestic introduces a fabric collection that is inspired by his love of crocheting. Hooked celebrates the handmade beauty created with colourful yarn and playful block patterns. Bring some crochet to your sewing machine with unique textures, vibrant colours, and fun notions. To see all the fabric designs in this range – click here
PYJAMA SEASON It’s that time of year when we start to think of anchoring down and what’s better than making cosy pyjamas and soft furnishings for the home. Cloud9 has just released its 100% organic cotton flannel collection, which is perfect for winter pyjamas, nursery blankets and baby rompers. Whether you like a spot, stripe or animal print, there’s something for everyone. To view the rest of the Northerly cosy collection of flannels – click here
FESTIVE FUN Maureen Cracknell’s latest collection for Art Gallery Fabrics is called Cozy & Joyful. It celebrates the comfort and warmth of the family, a steaming mug of cocoa, and the soft twinkle of Christmas tree lights. The fabrics are perfect for all sorts of projects including handmade gifts and seasonal makes for the home. To view this festive collection from Art Gallery Fabrics – click here
SIMPLE & STYLISH We catch up with Australian pattern brand Style Arc, as its sewing patterns become available in printed format in the UK
Tell us a bit about your pattern philosophy and what makes Style Arc patterns stand out? At Style Arc, we wanted to give every sewer the opportunity to access a fashionable sewing pattern with simple lines that’s relatively easy to construct. We believe a great looking garment doesn’t need to be complicated or difficult to sew. Sewing should be a creative medium that allows an individual look by the choice of fabric or trim. We are the architects; you are the creator! Why have you decided that the time is right to offer printed patterns? We had a freelance pattern making business working for many of the large manufacturers and retailers in Melbourne in Australia. The clothing industry had slowed considerably because manufacturing was moving off shore, so we needed to choose a different path. The idea of selling patterns on the Internet had been in our minds for quite some time and so we decided this was the time to pursue this endeavour. We found an amazing
graphic artist who set up our initial website with whom we still work. We started working on creating a library of fashionable patterns with an industry base. What kind of sewer does your sewing patterns cater for? We try to cater for all sewers, and across all seasons and age groups. We focus on women’s sewing patterns but we’re slowly growing a kids-wear range. Our constructions are known to be brief but we’re working hard to improve these. We do believe simple instructions are better than highly involved ones, and if the text on the pattern and the notches are followed the construction becomes easy. A pattern is like a jigsaw puzzle, it will slot together if you carefully follow the notches! How many pattens do you release each year? We release around three patterns per month, which equates to around 30-40 each year.
When you see one of your ‘Get the Look’ pattern illustrations, you know immediately that its Style Arc. How useful do you think these are for sewers? Our ‘Get the Look’ bundles give sewers a different way of looking at how to put our styles together – perhaps very different to their original thoughts. They’re just an example of how to use different pieces together but we find the feedback and pattern orders reflect this! Our sewers enjoy the challenge of creating a total outfit. What is your best-selling sewing pattern, and do you have a favourite one? Dresses have been super-popular this year. The Sydney Dress has been a great style, along with Montana, Patricia Rose and Autumn. The Linda Stretch Pant was our first best seller, and we’re well known for our trousers, and in more recent times the Bob Pant has proven very popular. We took the philosophy of only drafting patterns that we would be happy to wear ourselves so therefore we can’t pick out favourites – we love them all! How can sewers get hold of your printed patterns in the UK? Style Arc patterns are available through our website with a choice of many different formats. Our paper patterns are available through a growing list of stockists in the UK and distributed by Hantex Ltd. To find your local UK stockist and view more Style Arc Patterns – click here
BOB PANT
Get Spooky ‘n Sweet this Halloween Sarah Ashford, obsessive quilter and fabric lover shares her ideas and inspiration on how to use the new Halloween fabric collection from Art Gallery Fabrics
A little witch girl called Peppermint, a boy child vampire, skeletons selling candy apples, graveyard cats and some not so scary looking ghosts are all featured in this gorgeous ‘Spooky ‘n Sweet’ collection for Art Gallery Fabrics. I just love the nostalgic feel of these magical prints, which are just perfect for Halloween makes. I’m thinking drawstring treat bags – like the one I’ve made here – bunting, place settings and table runners and even a Halloween themed quilt. I’ve made some squares in
square blocks, which are ideal for fussy cutting the adorable spooky characters, and they would look great incorporated into a quilt. The collection also includes a fantastic panel, with illustrated phrases such as ‘Trick or Treat’ and ‘You are Magic’ (as shown) and the character Peppermint the witch with her spooky friends. You could easily trim these panels into 12½in blocks, and add a few blocks of your own to make a Halloween quilt that would come together in no time at all. Along with the cute illustrated prints there’s some fantastic ‘blender’ prints. The orange and purple ‘Stars Aligned’ prints are really pretty, and would work well with other collections, as they aren’t Halloween specific. There’s also a ‘candy’ theme, with a ‘Candy Bowl’ print, and another print full of sweets – the bit the kids love best about Halloween!
I think my favourite print has to be the ‘Cast A Spell’ print that I’ve used as the main panel of the drawstring bag. With big blooms, autumnal leaves and cobwebs, it has a lovely eerie yet beautiful feel to it. I also love the cleverly named ‘Purranormal Activity’ print featuring cats in the graveyard. It has a quirky, fun, illustrative feel to it, without being novelty. I’ve so enjoyed playing with this spooky collection and admiring all the characters as they head out on All Hallows’ Eve. I’m looking forward to adding more makes to my collection for a fabulous handmade Halloween!
Editor’s notes The Spooky ‘n Sweet fabric collection from Art Gallery Fabrics is all about celebrating the magic of Halloween! Taking inspiration from vintage decorations, this nostalgic collection tells a sweet story about ghoulish friends who set out on an adventure on All Hallows’ Eve. To view the full range – click here
TRANQUIL COLOURS National Nonwovens has just introduced the new Tranquility collection with beautiful new colours to add to its popular Woolfelt range. The new wool-blend felt colours reflect on the more serene moments, when all the stress drifts away. Made up of between 20-35% wool and 6580% rayon – it’s the perfect crafting medium and the uses are endless. You can make decorations, ornaments, wearables, appliqué, cushions and more! To view the new colours in this collection – click here
WHAT’S
NEW
We keep you posted on the latest launches
WITCH’S NIGHT OUT QUILT BOOK This is the latest quilt book from It’s Sew Emma, and is full of fun but no fright! The book takes you through creating this whimsical quilt with pointy black hats to some of the hallmarks of Halloween like black cats on broomsticks, flying bats and witchy hats, cauldrons and pumpkin patches! The finished quilt measures 57 ½ in x 64½in as well as a bonus table runner. To view this quilt pattern book - click here.
CAT STYLE It is not only cat-lovers who will love this pretty asset for the sewing workplace. The practical pin magnet can be attached directly to the sewing machine or on any other smooth, dust-free surface by means of the suction cup. A small loop lets you remove its sturdy, transparent silicone suction cup with ease. The smooth, brushed stainless steel surface of the pin magnet gives you plenty of space for quick access to all your sewing needles and pins when you are sewing, embroidering or doing patchwork. To find your local stockist and learn more – click here
Wear the Trend: Cosy Knits Brazilian-born sewing blogger, Rachel Pinheiro shares how to wear knitwear head-to-toe! The sun may still be shining however I’d like to inspire you to try out this autumn/winter’s big knitwear trend. If wearing knitwear from head-to-toe probably isn’t something you’ve considered before then it might be time to try! Carrying on from our ‘comfort at home’ lockdown co-ord days, now’s the time to add a cosy layer. We need every little bit of luxury right now and this fabric is lush! I have made two of the Como patterns Style Arc - the trousers and the top. This indie sewing pattern brand has designed a Como three-piece set, in which you can buy separately or as a bundle. I skipped the cardigan because this outfit is crying out for a knit blazer (I’d recommend the Morris from Grainline Studios). At the moment, this style is perfect for my stay-at-home dressing however, dare I dream one day to travel on an airplane this would be perfect. I could even made a matching mask. I picked grey for the whole look, as I love monochrome these days. To avoid it being too much of a single-colour – pick a fabric with a lovely texture. Because let’s face it, as the nights draw colder and darker, there’s nothing better than luxuriating in a sumptuous, comfy, and cosy knit set!
Working with Style Arc patterns Little note about Style Arc patterns – the instructions are minimal. Honestly I love that, because they focus the illustrations on the more tricky areas only. They list action step-by-step as text, which is simple and straightforward. I sometimes find myself confused by really long and overwritten instructions, don’t you? That is exacerbated by a language barrier that many makers have if they aren’t native English speakers. To have ‘perfect instructions’ is something very hard for pattern brands because each individual sewer has different needs.
Some makers need the pattern to teach as they sew and seek the instructions to explain every little detail. Others are more experienced, and only need to check instructions for reference occasionally, so having text only doesn’t matter. For reference, on Style Arc sizing – for this top, I made size 10, which is one down from what they suggested for my measurements (size 12) because I wanted a snug fit. And I went with a size 12 on the trousers. I never use the elastic measurements of a pattern because the stretch tends to differ depending on the elastic brand and width.
Editor’s notes Style Arc produces real industry-based sewing patterns. Each pattern contains a construction sheet, with the pattern pieces numbered and easily recognisable fabric estimates. They assume some sewing knowledge, which is reflected in the ‘straight to it’, style instructions.
The top is drafted with a double layer at the front, and as much as that makes sense, I didn’t want that amount of thickness and texture. So instead, I used a thinner knit fabric with similar stretch. It was the same for the waistband of the trousers. Style Arc recommends using a knit interfacing around the V- neck to avoid stretching. It’s a technique that I always use. The neckline is constructed like a jacket where the two fronts meet to create a mirrored shape to sew against the back neckline. I love this detail, and appreciate it on a simple garment. The trousers feature a wide leg that’s not too wide at the hips, just at the legs. The flat elastic waist and in-seam pockets look great and make the trousers so comfortable to wear. I didn’t include the drawstring and chose to secure the elastic with multiple stitching. Style this knitted co-ord with messy French plaits and quilted slippers or put your pearls and grab a glass of champagne!
The Como Knit Pant is an on-trend knit pant pattern that includes the new wider leg, flat elastic waist and in-seam pockets. Make them with a fulllength leg or crop them to what length you prefer, they are so comfortable to wear! To view this pattern – click here The Como Knit Top is the perfect partner to the Como Knit Pant and has a flattering V-neckline that hugs the neck and is designed to stand at the back. This versatile pattern has some shape over the body, and the shoulder line is extended to cover the shoulders. To view this pattern – click here Both patterns come in sizes 18-30. To view the Como Cardigan that Rachel mentions – click here
The fabric Rachel has used for this make is the Barso Grey Heathered Cable Jacquard Knit Fabric from Modelo Fabrics. It comes in 10 stylish colours, and has the perfect amount of stretch for tops, trousers, sweatshirts, dresses, tops and coatigans. To view this warm Jacquard Jersey – click here
The New Augusta
The New Augusta Dress Distributed Exclusively in the UK by Hantex Ltd
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