Gambero Rosso Wine Travel Food 121 by Gambero Rosso

year 21 - number 121 - september 2018 - gamberorosso.it

WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

HEINZ'S SENSE FOR BUSINESS 10 WINERIES FOR 10 NATIONS How Italian businesses are moving and how they have changed consumer tastes

HEINZ BECK Exploring his economic empire that starts from Rome and radiates in the world

NEWS Gambero Rosso World Tour takes off in Tokyo and includes more than 30 events

Savour the landscape, too. Tenute SalvaTerra has been awarded the international “Best of Wine Tourism” award 2018 for the “Architecture and Landscapes” category. Architecture, landscape and wine are intricately linked, as all three are the result of human thought and work. This time, we have not won recognition for our wines, but for our commitment to nurturing and promoting a major wine region and its produce.

The stunning natural beauty of Valpolicella awaits you.

SOMMARIO 4

year 21 - number 121 - september 2018 - gamberorosso.it

WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

6 8 12 14 20 44

The land of the thousand grape varieties Gambero Rosso World Tour takes off, focus on Asia and Russia Food News Wine News Wine of the month 10 Wineries for 10 Nations Heinz (and Teresa’s) sense for business. Beck, a German from Rome and his war machine

HEINZ'S SENSE FOR BUSINESS 10 WINERIES FOR 10 NATIONS How Italian businesses are moving and how they have changed consumer tastes

HEINZ BECK Exploring his economic empire that starts from Rome and radiates in the world

NEWS Gambero Rosso World Tour takes off in Tokyo and includes more than 30 events

20 12

The land of the thousand grape varieties A few days ago, we closed the new wine guide... It was a great ride in the spring and summer months in which our team ran up and down Italy tasting over 40 thousand wines. A very hard but also exciting task. We are very lucky - we often tell ourselves - to have the opportunity of being among the first to taste every new vintage of all the producers, be they small or large, whether they are famous or not, of the classic and emerging areas. The wine of Italy is really a fascinating universe. We go around the world with our events, and taste wine wherever possible. There isn’t another country like ours, in regard to richness and complexity of the viticulture scene. For some this is seen as a problem... Until a few years ago, we only heard slogans like “make a critical mass” or “offering the markets what they want”. At the dawn of the publication of our 32nd issue we can safely say that it’s absolutely not true that the markets want large numbers of standardized wines on international grape varieties, or the usual Cabernet, Merlot, Chardonnay etc. International consumers have rediscovered the fascination of diversity, they are “thirsty” for novelty, authentic flavors, native grapes, new territories to be discovered. We have the privilege of living in the cradle of diversity and complexity, in the country of a thousand grape varieties and of a thousand terroirs, which are then declined in international styles, or traditional, or innovative, or even “natural”, with all the ambiguity that comes with these terms. Even for us it’s sometimes difficult to decipher the complexity of this picture, made up of large businesses and tiny artisan winemakers, but year after year all this makes our work always new and still manages to excite us. We can never take anything for granted, nothing is set in stone, and everything evolves with surprising speed. Fortunately, we never imprisoned ourselves by selfimposed barriers. We are curious, we want to taste everything possible, wine that makes sense, beyond style and ideologies. And every year we discover hidden treasures, rising stars, or we are witnesses of resounding debacles, or unexpected reappearances on the scene. We taste Lambrusco with the same attention that we reserve for Barolo and Brunello or Amarone. We like biodynamic wines as much as we do those from conventional viticulture, new territories and classic strongholds. We taste, we take notes, we go to visit the wineries... If the products and the people behind them are interesting characters we are happy to tell the whole world about them. As long as those wines have given us an emotion, and that the story told by the producer is credible, genuine. And above all, as long as the wine is good!

– Gianni Fabrizio

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SEPTEMBER 2018

Vini d’Italia

Worldtour 2018/2019

2018 OCTOBER

NOVEMBER

27 ROME - Italy

trebicchieri

01 SEOUL - Korea

Top Italian Wines Roadshow

30 TOKYO - Japan

trebicchieri

05 TAIPEI - Taiwan

Top Italian Wines Roadshow

07 HONG KONG - China

trebicchieri HKTDC Special

12 SHANGHAI - China

trebicchieri

15 BEIJING - China

Vini d'Italia

20 ST. PETERSBURG - Russia Top Italian Wines Roadshow 22 MOSCOW - Russia

trebicchieri

2019 APRIL

JANUARY 21 MUNICH - Germany

trebicchieri

23 BERLIN - Germany

Vini d'Italia

28 STOCKHOLM - Sweden

trebicchieri

30 COPENHAGEN - Denmark Vini d'Italia

MARCH

Notte Italiana - Best of Italy

SINGAPORE - Singapore Top Italian Wines Roadshow ZURICH - Switzerland

Vini d'Italia

BORDEAUX - France

trebicchieri VINEXPO Special

MONTREAL - Canada

Top Italian Wines Roadshow

TORONTO - Canada

Vini d'Italia

FEBRUARY trebicchieri

trebicchieri VINITALY Special

MAY 06

27 CHICAGO - Usa

VERONA - Italy DUBAI - UAE

01 NEW YORK - Usa

trebicchieri

05 SAN FRANCISCO - Usa

trebicchieri

JUNE

07 LOS ANGELES - Usa

trebicchieri

11 MEXICO CITY - Mexico

Top Italian Wines Roadshow

WASHINGTON DC - USA Top Italian Wines Roadshow BOSTON - USA

Top Italian Wines Roadshow

16 DUSSELDORF - Germany trebicchieri PROWEIN Special

SAN DIEGO - USA

Vini d’Italia

26 LONDON - U.K.

ATLANTA - USA

Vini d’Italia

trebicchieri

Sponsor

GAMBERO ROSSO WORLD TOUR TAKES OFF, FOCUS ON ASIA AND RUSSIA

Everything is ready for the Gambero Rosso World Tour, which this year kicks off from Japan, one of the safe havens for quality Italian wine. Saturday October 27th the official presentation of Vini d’Italia 2019 is scheduled in Rome, three days later the Tre Bicchieri winners will be protagonists

in Tokyo. From Tokyo to Atlanta, in between there are thirty events, thirty tastings, enriched by seminars, Italian flavors, with producers ready to talk about their wines and their territories. 2017 has set a new record for Italian exports: 6 million Euro total value, +6.5% compared to 2016. A figure that is driven by the bubble industry, Prosecco continues to fly, but it’s also synonymous of the ever deeper curiosity about the immense heritage of native Italian grape varieties. In 2017 Italy became the first exporter of white wines in the world, surpassing France in this category. In Asia, where 6 events are scheduled in November, only a decade ago Italian white wines were harder to find than a good bottle of wine at the Munich Oktoberfest in Germany. Today they are more and more appreciated for their freshness, for their savory profile, for their ability to accompany the table by showcasing their varieties and unique landscapes: for their unpredictability. In China, Italian wine imports grew by 29% in 2017: passion

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for wine is increasingly rooted, also strong in internal production: China is today the sixth largest producer in the world by production and is rapidly climbing positions, with a qualitative level in impressive growth. From China the tour will move to Russia where Italian wine imports are starting again with important numbers after the post-embargo decrease. Russia is one of the few markets in the world that consumes more Italian and French sparkling wines: 87 million Euro and 226 thousand hectoliters in 2017. This year there will be two events in the country that hosted an extraordinary soccer world cup, after several years the tour will rediscover the streets and canals of St. Petersburg: by popular demand on November 20, the Roadshow will land in the city. Two days later the tour will land in Moscow, a city that’s completely renewing its gastronomic profile, becoming a destination for foodies, unthinkable only a few years ago. The oenological proposal and the demand for new Italian wines are growing.

OCTOBER 2018

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WALLA-WALLA WASHINGTON STATE FROM OCTOBER 4TH TO OCTOBER 6TH, 2018

USA NORTH TOUR WALK AROUND TOUR pbma pbg^

WINE BLOGGER CONFERENCE (WBC 2018)

CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO (EU) REGULATION NO. 1308/2013

LUGANA IN THE WORLD

NEWS

BIG COMMITMENT IN THE FIGHT AGAINST FOOD WASTE. SEEDS&CHIPS HITS SAN FRANCISCO Seeds&Chips - the international Milan summit dedicated to companies and digital startups that innovate in the food production chain and the universe of food and wine, in addition to inaugurating new headquarters in San Francisco, announces the partnership with Treasure8, an active player in the testing of food systems according to the circular economy principle, aimed at encouraging sustainable food consumption, greater traceability and food security. On the one hand, therefore, Seeds&Chips, which over the years has become a prestigious international showcase that brings great opinion-leaders to Milan, from Barak Obama to John F. Kerry, comparing issues related to food and innovation; on the other, Treasure8 is a company specialized in innovation and food technology that for years has been committed to tackling nutritional challenges and environmental issues, developing new food systems,

products and processes that are healthier for individuals and sustainable for the planet. A partnership, that in the hopes of the protagonists, will constitute one of the main global networks for food innovation. “The key to sustainability lies in the interweaving of collaborations giving life to new ideas”, explains Marco Gualtieri, President and founder of Seeds&Chips. “We at Seeds&Chips believe strongly in this, and for years we’ve worked alongside all those who are contributing to the transformation of the global food system.The partnership with Treasure8 represents a great opportunity for both. It will allow us to have a base both in Europe and in North America where we are already present with Fancy Food in New York (the fair dedicated to the biggest food industry in North America, Ed.) and in San Francisco, together it will be possible to start the transformation of the global food chain towards a more efficient and sustainable system”.

FRANCO PEPE’S PIZZA IN HONG KONG FOR KYTALY. THE CITY GOES WILD FOR THE CAIAZZO PIES

The pizzeria Pepe in Grani has deservedly become a reference point for professionals and customers coming from all over Italy and the world. Outside the perimeter of the small town in the Caserta province, however, Franco Pepe’s pies are equally sought after: in addition to the Albereta, in Franciacorta, where the partnership that started two years ago is proceed-

ing well, there is also a collaboration with Kytaly, a project of Italian dining born in Geneva from the initiative of the Bortesi family, which several years ago had the intuition of involving Pepe in the drafting of a menu dedicated to gourmet pizza paired with the menu. Now that the project is consolidated, the Swiss format will also debut in Hong Kong, where the second local

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Kytaly had its grand opening a few days ago, under the guidance of Alessandro Bortesi, who for the debut in Hong Kong partnered with Helene Gigot, persuaded to participate in the project just from the exclusivity of Franco Pepe’s product. Moreover, the reception reserved to the pizza maker from the local news has been nothing short of warm. The pizzeria menu offers 19 pies, from the classic to the signature of the pizza chef from Campania, like the “wrong Margherita”. Great investment has been made on ingredients sourcing, with products coming from Italy and that are very rare on the Chinese market (not only tomato, basil and anchovies, but also, for example, cured meats of Nero Casertano and other local specialties). Working at the pizza oven is Antonio Cecere, a young pizza maker coming from the Caiazzo “school” and who works on sight for the guests of the chef’s table overlooking the kitchen.

NEWS

DENMARK INVESTS IN FINE DINING. €5M SUPPORTING SECTOR DEVELOPMENT A gastronomic sector that grows within the social, cultural, economic (and political) dynamics of a modern state, feeds the collective well-being no less than the individual. And Denmark knows this well: the advent of the New Nordic Cuisine movement, now more than a decade ago, has definitely influenced the growth of local restaurants, offering new generations a place of common references from which to progress. In parallel, the State’s commitment to improving food policies on the one hand, and supporting the economic growth of the sector on the other, has never failed. Two guidelines that address the Royal House of Queen Margaret II and the Danish Parliament: the fight against food waste and the promotion of food and wine tourism. Regarding the second point, it’s the announcement of the Minister of the Environment of Food Jakob Ellemann-Jensen that conquered the headlines for the foresight of measures to support the Danish fine dining budgeted for 2019. It amounts to 40M Crowns - more than 5M Euro - the state budget planned for the next 4

years to promote the development of the sector and to boost employment in the fine dining industry. The goal of the Danish government is therefore twofold, aiming to consolidate the rise of Danish dining at a global level, starting from the recognition obtained in recent years to aspire to the conquest of a leadership role that French cuisine holds before the birth of modern dining. The Danish minister is clear: maintaining a good position on the world map of gourmet destinations is a priority capable of restoring long-term

benefits to the community, and not only in terms of international prestige. “On the side of tourism and agricultural development, quality gastronomy is a fundamental driving force for increasing employment”, for this reason one of the first initiatives on the agenda will be to finance the creation of a new academy for the training of chefs. But the investment will also directly affect the development of food policies aimed at reducing waste and promoting sustainable production. In short, Denmark believes.

Italian Wines 2019 .

2530 WINERIES 22100 WINES 447 TRE BICCHIERI WINES A basic, essential volume for professionals and winelovers available from November in bookshops* and at amazon.com *in USA, Canada, UK and Italy

GAMBERO ROSSO

www.gamberorosso.it

SEPTEMBER 2018

NEWS

CHAMPAGNE. FIRST ESTIMATES FOR 2018. FOR COMITÉ THE HARVEST IS “EXCEPTIONAL” After a 2017 that, as we Minus sign in imports of still wine (except sparkling) from the United States. The first five It’s defined as an “out of the ordinary” and “exceptional” harvest in Champagne, a place that last year totaled 307.3M bottles, for 4.9B Euro. Out of the norm for date, quantity and quality. The first bunches were removed on August 20th in the earliest areas, a date that represented the fifth time for an Augustinian harvest in Reims and surroundings. In these initial estimates, the Comité Champagne informs that the marketable yield of 10,800 kilos per hectare will be achieved “in all areas”. In addition, the abundant harvest will allow vignerons and maisons to reconstitute the inter-professional reserve (which consists in putting aside the wines in fa-

vorable vintages). From a climatic point of view, after a particularly rainy winter, from April the sunshine and temperatures have been much higher than the 10-year average. An exceptional climate that has allowed the vineyards to rap-

idly evolve. The climatic conditions during the flowering and ripening phases were ideal. At the time of harvest, the grapes were numerous, with a “perfect health status and an aromatic richness and sugar well above average”.

NAPA VALLEY. RECORD AUCTION FOR HARVEST STOMP: OVER 2 MILLION DOLLARS COLLECTED

It’s certainly one of the most anticipated events in all of Napa Valley. This year, in its eleventh edition, the famous Harvest Stomp managed to collect the record amount of 2 million dollars in a single evening, in which 575 guests took part. The lively, characteristic and colorful auction of fine wines, between the sweet smell

of cigars and roast meat at the barbecue, is organized by Napa Valley Grapegrowers, the association that brings together over 700 winemakers and is currently the largest in the US wine-growing district. Purpose of the event? A noble one: helping to protect and preserve the uniqueness of the excellent vineyards in

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Napa County and the valuable agricultural work of this wine area. So far, thanks to funds managed by the Napa Valley Farmers’ Foundation, more than 14,000 workers have benefited from the services offered, including training, safety and professional refresher courses, in addition to scholastic support.

NEWS

WINE OF THE MONTH CHIANTI CLASSICO ‘16 LE MICCINE Località Le Miccine, 44, SP2, 53013 Gaiole In Chianti SI, Italia lemiccine.com - bottles 18,000 - ex-cellar price: 11.50 Euro euros + taxes The wine of the months brings us back to Gaiole in Chianti in the heart of Chianti Classico. At Le Miccine the vineyards are cultivated organically, in the cellar their approach is minimally invasive with aging that calls for midsize casks or large wood barrels. These are simple but definitive choices that guarantee that the winery managed by Paula Papini Cook offers a well-focused selection of wines. Stylistically, they pursue the identity of the territory where they are cultivated, in the subzone of Gaiole in Chianti. The result is a well-defined, forthright and drinkable selection of wines. At times their subtle profile can make for less complexity overall. Their 2016 Chianti Classico is hands down the best of their selection. It stands out aromatically for its flowery hints, which become extremely fresh citrusy notes. On the palate it’s extremely steady, with a persistent savoriness and decisive fragrance. Outstanding.

E-COMMERCE. CHINA RANKS THE HIGHEST IN ALCOHOL SALES China is the country with the highest number of online alcohol purchases with a value of purchases of $ 6.1 billion. An in-depth study of Iwsr, a London research institute which analyzed trends in twenty countries, shows how online purchases in China are traveling at a rate of growth of around 15% per year and have reached a turnover that is four times that of the United States and three times as many as those, though sufficiently developed, of France and the United Kingdom. The study identifies two main players in the Chinese online spirits market: Tmall and Jd, which together account for 70% of the market. In the US, sales make up just 1% of off-premise spending. In France, this percentage is 9% also thanks to the initiatives of Leclerc and Carrefour. In the UK, Tesco and Asda dominate the market and, in wine, both Majestic and The Wine Society move well. In Germany, the giant Amazon has recovered and is increasing its sales in Japan, UK, Spain and Italy. In general, the frequency of online purchases is on average low in most markets, with the exception of China and the United Kingdom, with over half of consumers purchasing at least one or more times a month. The reasons for this? Convenience and then price. Wine is certainly the the most sold, with a percentage between 60% and 70%. While, among brands, Jack Daniel’s

dominates. Heineken is among the beer labels on the podium. The future projections of Iwsr are positive. Considering the ten main markets, the growth estimate for the period 2017-2020 is between 9% and 10% per year, in the consolidated markets, such as France and the UK; while it is between 20% and 40% annually in new and less developed markets. And taking into account the winning combination of online-China sales, the Business Strategies - Inalca food & beverage collaboration has just started to export Italian brands (after wine, now it’s up to food: from olives to sauces) in China. The digital shop, promoted on WeChat, is called Absolute Italy Lifestyle and will initially cover the cities of Shanghai, Hangzhou, Suzhou and Wuxi, and then expand its distribution nationally.

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CONSUMPTION. WINE BEST PERFORMANCE FROM HERE TO 2022. IWSR FORECASTS Wine will have the best performance in the alcohol segment by 2022. Global forecast numbers, elaborated by the International Wine and Spirit Research, say that the world consumption of alcoholic beverages will increase by 147.1 million 9-litre cases between 2018 and 2022, up to the figure of 28 billion cases. In terms of value, the total increase will be 78.7 billion dollars, which will bring the global turnover to one trillion dollars. The wine category is estimated to grow by 37.8 million nine-liter cases (equal to about 3.4 billion bottles), followed by spirits (36.5 million cases). Considering the individual sectors, wine will continue to grow, according to Iwsr, in still and sparkling wines, while fortified and light aperitifs (such as Vermouth) are expected to decline. The markets with the best growth rate for still and sparkling wines, by 2022, will be the United States, Russia and Brazil. Beer, after a difficult month due to the decline in consumption of local brands, especially China, the United States and Russia, should start to grow again in 2018 and, finally, stabilize at 447.9 billion dollars and 20.5 thousand billion of cases (-0.4%). The spirits will have in whiskey, in gin, in genever and in liqueurs with an agave base (mezcal) the protagonists of the growth, in the face of a decline of vodka, rum and brandy. Considering, finally, the markets, the United States will observe a growth in American and Irish wines and whiskeys; good gin in the UK market, and rum in France.

NEWS

Homage to Beppe “Citrico” Rinaldi, philosopher of Barolo The memory of those who knew Beppe Rinaldi well, a great figure of Italian wine who died on September 3 after a ferocious illness. The tribute to Citrico in the words of Vittorio Manganelli.

His true passion was talking to people. Not as a repetitive pastime but to grasp, from every conversation, some aspect that would help him understand the habits, mentality, hopes and frustrations of the people he met, attempting to enrich his vision of the world and to find new reflections to share with the ever increasing visitors coming to his beautiful home in Barolo, students or journalists alike. He loved to call himself an anarchist, but in reality he wasn’t that at all, always busy as he was trying to understand the problems of his community, intended as the sum of the people living and working in the Langhe, producing wine or bread. And always engaged in proposing solutions, concerning either the municipal administration or the increase in the production of Barolo. The most beautiful images we have of him are those in which, surrounded by books and newspaper cuttings, he prepared his speeches for the meetings of the Consortium of Barolo, with pages and pages of handwritten notes, contesting some wild choice but also, always, to propose a personal vision of the problem. He was, in spite of himself, one of the most sought after intellectuals of the Langa, he who abhorred this term and who preferred the concrete examples and projects to vain lucubrations. He was certainly a great and multifaceted reader, who intercalated the consultation of the municipal council deliberations with amused comments on Virgil’s Bucoliche, always looking for a classicism that could be translated into a way of life in full harmony with nature.

In this sense, he refused mobile phones and computers, as well as barriques, seen as guilty instruments for an unnecessary speeding up of what he considered the natural rhythms of people, and wines. And no big restaurants, much better two tomatoes from the garden or the humble little restaurant that survived rampant and distorting oenological tourism. And no search for more wealth, knowing that from his few hectares one could get the means for a more than dignified life and that therefore it was not the case to increase the vineyards or the price of the bottles. On the table, with a plate of pasta and some vegetables, he paired his simpler wines, convinced that a Freisa or a Dolcetto were ideal companions of food and that the continuous search for new labels and new tastings was suitable for the oenomaniacs, not to those who see wine as serene and natural completion of the food on the table. He was not a winemaker in the strict sense, even though he was a good wine-making expert, he was “Barolo sooner or later will go through malolactic” and that no abstrusions were ever necessary in the cellar, where the great wood barrels and time remainedn the decisive elements. His wines were born from this setting, often very good and sometimes problematic or grumpy, strong with an aura of naturalness and purity that won crowds of admirers everywhere. Among all the images of Citrico that we will see these sad days, let’s not forget to catch his sharp gaze, sometimes teasing and sometimes worried, always looking for some element that could make the inhabitants, old and new, live with happiness and harmony, in his beloved Langhe. – Vittorio Manganelli

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2018/2019 Participating Wineries Agricole Gussalli Gussalli Beretta Beretta Agricole Allegrini Allegrini Andreola Andreola Assuli Assuli Bellavista Bellavista Bortolomiol Bortolomiol Ca’ Rugate Rugate Ca’ Canevel Spumanti Canevel Spumanti Cantina Tollo Tollo Cantina Cantine Due Due Palme Palme Cantine Colle Massari Massari Colle Contadi Castaldi Castaldi Contadi Coppi Coppi Cottanera Cottanera Cusumano Cusumano %NRICO 3ERAlNO %NRICO 3ERAlNO Famiglia Cecchi Cecchi Famiglia Famiglia Cotarella Famiglia Cotarella Famiglia Cottini Cottini -- Monte Monte Zovo Zovo Famiglia Fattoria Le Le Pupille Pupille Fattoria Ferrari Ferrari Feudi di di San San Gregorio Gregorio Feudi Feudo Maccari Maccari Feudo Firriato Firriato Gaja Gaja

Jermann Jermann La La Vis Vis -- Valle Valle di di Cembra Cembra Le Le Monde Monde Le Le Rocche Rocche Malatestiane Malatestiane Leone Leone de de Castris Castris Livon Livon Lunadoro Lunadoro Lunae Lunae Bosoni Bosoni Mandrarossa Mandrarossa Marchesi Marchesi Antinori Antinori Marco Marco Felluga Felluga Masi Masi Medici Medici Ermete Ermete && Figli Figli Monte Monte delle delle Vigne Vigne Nals Nals Margreid Margreid Nicosia Nicosia Ottella Ottella Palmento Palmento Costanzo Costanzo Paolo Paolo Leo Leo Pasqua Pasqua Petra Petra Pico Pico Maccario Maccario Planeta Planeta Poggio Poggio al al Tesoro Tesoro Poggio Poggio Le Le Volpi Volpi Rocca delle Macìe

For media enquiries: international@gamberorosso.it

Rocca delle Macìe 2UFlNO 2UFlNO Ruggeri Ruggeri San Felice San Patrignano Felice San San Salvatore Patrignano San San Salvatore Santa Margherita Gruppo Vinicolo Santa Margherita Tenuta di Arceno Gruppo Vinicolo Tenuta Gorghi di Arceno Tenuta Tondi Tenuta Sette GorghiPonti Tondi Tenuta Tenuta Viglione Sette Ponti Tenuta Tenuta Ambrogio Viglione e Giovanni Folonari Tenute Tenute di Ambrogio e Giovanni Folonari Tenute Genagricola Tenute Rubino di Genagricola Tenute Tenute SalvaTerra Rubino Tenute Tenute Sella SalvaTerra Tenute & Mosca Tenute Sella & Mosca Teruzzi Teruzzi Family Estates Tommasi Tommasi Family Estates Torrevento Torrevento Vallepicciola Vallepicciola Valori Valori Varvaglione Varvaglione Velenosi Velenosi Villa Sandi Villa Sandi Zorzettig Zorzettig

GAMBERO ROSSO X AZIENDA AGRICOLA CASEARIA MONTECOPPE

Montecoppe. The kingdom of Parmigiano Regional Park of the Boschi di Carrega Living in the city, one may have a hard time imagining what is behind and inside a wheel of cheese. But it’s sufficient to take the road from Sala Baganza to Collecchio, just outside Parma, for an image to take shape. Here – in the heart of the Parmigiano Reggiano PDO–the Montecoppe farm is the absolute protagonist of a supply chain process that focuses on cheese and the people who make it, from cow breeding to cheese making and aging. All this can be visited thanks to a walkway that crosses the entire property. “Because learning

the boilers in the factory, to the farm shop. What the cows eat is visible to all: fresh fodder and hay (no silage or fermented foods) supplemented with a mix of cereals. “Production in the supply chain is the characteristic of the Montecoppe Parmigiano Reggiano and that’s why control is a fundamental aspect of our daily life”. Montecoppe is a green oasis of over 200 hectares within the 1,270 hectares of the Regional Park of the Boschi di Carrega and just a few kilometres from the Taro River Park. This is home to 570 cows, 90% of which

first hand about the production process and the environment in which it’s carried out is essential for those who choose our products”, explain the folks at Montecoppe. Here everything can be visited, from the stables surrounded by more than 100 hectares of meadows and fodder, to

MONTECOPPE IN NUMBERS

220 hectares

of farmstead surface area

over 100 hectares

of forage and stable meadows production: wheels a day

16 5.800 wheels a year 38-40 chili the weight of a wheel

8 different agings: 12-18-24-30-36-5060 months and beyond 66 months

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GAMBERO ROSSO X AZIENDA AGRICOLA CASEARIA MONTECOPPE

1 Opening a wheel. Aging is up to 72 months 2. The stables home to 570 Frisona italiana and Bruna Alpina cows 3. The modern creamery by architect Canali (photo Francesco Castagna) 4. The company store housed in an ancient 19th century convent

Reggiano in the Frisona breed and 10% of Bruna Alpina breed: “A choice made a couple of years ago – explain the dairy farm technicians – because the milk of the Bruna Alpina cow, more fat and richer in protein compared to that of the Frisona’s, lends greater softness, creaminess and palability to the cheese, as well as allowing the full achievement of long and extended aging”. Here at Montecoppe aging is the last but essential step that leads to Parmigiano Reggiano of minimum allowed 12 months, to the stravecchio of over 72 months, matured on wooden planks at controlled temperature and humidity. A 72-month Parmigiano is not easy to find. “The most common aging is 12, 24 and 36 months - as explained in the evocative dairy

salespoint - For this reason too we chose to create our e-commerce site where different aged cheeses are found in differently sized: 450 gram wedges, 700 gram tips, 1 kg, 1.5 kg and 2 kg”. In the company store as well as online, Montecoppe also offers cured meats and other local products (wines, chutneys and pickled mushrooms). Select products from other regions complete the range. There are several restaurateurs, cooks and gourmet shops that source goods directly in the creamery, others place orders online. A risotto made with 6-year-old Parmigiano Reggiano has no competition! Try a chunk with two drops of balsamic vinegar aged about twenty years in small barrels...

In the meadows of Parco dei Boschi di Carrega, the dairy farm controls the entire supply chain of hay and fodder that feeds Frisona and Bruna Alpina cow breeds. Even in the architecture tradition and future coexist

TRADITION AND FUTURE ALSO IN THE COMPANY’S ARCHITECTURE Not just nature and meadows. Here in Montecoppe there’s also culture, art, history and... the future. The company store is housed in an old oratory, presumably designed in the second half of the 18th century for the nuns of Santa Teresa. Unfortunately, under Napoleon there were many confiscated properties, including the monastery that was never consecrated. With Maria Luigia of Austria, wife of Napoleon and daughter of Emperor Francis I, the building underwent a restructuring that allowed to recover the neo-Gothic style of the facades, to this day one of the last remaining few testimonies in Parma of this style. On the façade the date is still visible: 1858. Next to the oratory there was the old creamery that’s been replaced by the new facility that’s “hidden” among the trees and meadows of Boschi di Carrega inside the Park: the project is by architect Guido Canali (internationally renowned, born in Sala Baganza and responsible for many important works including the new Smeg offices in San Girolamo di Guastalla, the Prada factories, the restoration of Palazzo della Pilotta, the headquarters of the National Gallery of Parma and the Palazzo Reale complexes and the Museum of the Duomo in Milan). He wanted to insert the creamery into nature in a dialectic dialogue with the landscape of which it becomes an element itself.

Azienda Agricola Casearia Montecoppe

Collecchio (PR) – località Ferlaro – via Montecoppe, 19/4 – 0521805942 – montecoppe.it

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SEPTEMBER 2018

10 WINERIES FOR 10 NATIONS In this issue, dedicated to the main markets for Italian wine, we wanted to give voice and space to the main protagonists: the cellars.We therefore chose ten stories, ten points of view, ten markets (which together are worth â&#x201A;Ź4.5 billion) to offer a useful overview to get an idea of how Italian businesses are moving and how they have changed consumer tastes, in addition to highlighting the main trends of the moment.

Curated by Loredana Sottile and Gianluca Atzeni

STORIES

n this article, dedicated to the main markets for Italian wine, we wanted to give voice and space to the main protagonists: the cellars. What emerges is a cross-section of commercial exchanges subjective and universal at the same time. We have chosen ten stories, ten points of view, ten markets (which together are worth €4.5 billion Euro) to give readers an overview of sorts, which does not mean to be arrogantly exhaustive but wants to rather be useful to get an idea of how our businesses are moving and how consumers’ tastes have changed, as well as highlighting the main trends of the moment. At the same time, shedding

light on what types of difficulties should be faced in this work, starting from technical aspects, ending with those more exquisitely related to competition, with foreign competitors but also with other Italian brands. Without forgetting the fears of general uncertainty, deriving from neo-protectionist phenomena or the indeterminacy of free trade agreements. With this in mind, we think about the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom and Japan, characterized respectively by the threat of a possible tariff wars, doubts on the ratification of Ceta, the unknown of Brexit and the recently signed Jefta agreement. Furthermore, we couldn’t

THE PROTAGONISTS

Usa

Sweden

Germany

Japan

China

Switzerland

Russia

Canada

Brazil

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SEPTEMBER 2018

avoid mentioning three countries for a future challenge: China, Brazil and Russia, which in the course of 2017 recorded very important growth rates (between 25 and 60%). Finally, looking at Europe, there are three historical and stable squares over time: Germany, Switzerland and Sweden. At this moment, without neglecting the domestic market, looking to exports is a priority, given the sign of a strong dynamism of the international trade. Dynamism that’s also testified by the analysis of the OIV, which estimates the overall value of global wine trade to 30 billion Euro (in 2017, Italy reached a record of 6 billion), with constant growth since 2009.

CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REG. UE N. 1308/2013 CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EU REGULATION N. 1308/2013

Amarone della Valpolicella Great family prestige from 5 generations

Via Costabella, 9 - 37011 Bardolino (VR) Lago di Garda - Tel. +39 045 7210022 - zeni.it

STORIES

USA “This is how the consumption of Italian bubbles has changed in the States”. The story of Cantine Ferrari, between presidential toasts, Italian lifestyle and prestigious prizes

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MARKET. We know the US market very well, since we have been exporting to it since the ‘80s. But Ferrari’s development has been particularly significant in the last decade, even following a general change in trends. At the beginning, in fact, our presence was limited to some Italian restaurants in the main US cities. Then, little by little, we went further, setting up a marketing plan with our partner Palm Bay International, and expanding our distribution by focusing on the HoReCa channel, without limiting ourselves to Italian dining alone. Currently, we are present in many trendy US restaurants, even with glass service, which we consider essential to bring in new consumers. If we look at the evolution of this market, we can see how the relationship with bubbles has changed over time. Historically, in fact, in the US, as in many other markets, the high-end of this segment has always been monopolized by Champagne while Italian spumante was often identified as “cheap & sweet” wine, i.e. a low-priced sparkling wine with a sweet taste. Some experts recognized Ferrari as an Italian sparkling wine of excellence but there was no category for the Italian Classic Method, and the Trentodoc denomination was not known on the market yet. Recently, however, we have witnessed an important turning point and a transformation in opinion-leaders’ judgement and in the perception of consumers. Firstly, California sparkling wines have grown significantly and then the great success of Prosecco, which created greater attention for Italian bubbles. In this context, along with our Partner, Ferrari has a continued commercial and marketing strategy that’s allowed us to slowly expand distribution. THE TURNING POINT. For us, the turning point was 2013, when during the “Best of Italy” tasting in Los Angeles, Wine Spectator chose to insert our Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore - for the first time a bubbly - in a list with a few other iconic brands of Italian wine. An important article in the magazine followed that which had considerable visibility and made us aware of the change in progress. Two years later, in 2015, the award as European Winery of the Year of the American magazine Wine Enthusiast came as well. Another important sign to testify how things have definitely changed, especially among opinion-leaders. Since then, the interest in our “mountain bubbles” is constantly growing. COMPETITORS. Nowadays the bubbly market has a distribution that can be compared to an hourglass: consumption is concentrated on one side in the Champagne area (think prices between $30 and $50) and on the other in the low end dominated by Prosecco (among $10 and $20). Our Trentodoc, is located in a central tier: a market that is still small, but which is recently experiencing interesting growth rates. ITALIAN LIFESTYLE. Overseas we always want to promote Ferrari as an ambassador of Italian art of living. That’s why we always toast with Ferrari to Italian excellence. In addition to gastronomy, numerous partnerships have been started with prestigious Italian brands from fashion to design such as Ermenegildo Zegna, Kartell and Maserati. FAMOUS TOASTS. Ferrari has also been selected as the toast of some prestigious events that once were exclusive to French bubbles.

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10 WINERIES FOR 10 NATIONS

2017

1,4 billion euro volume 3,34 mln hl

value

First quarter 2018

values:

482,8 mln euro

vs. 461,25 mln euro in 2017

volumes:

114,4 mln litres

vs. 108,2 mln litres in 2017

2 1. Matteo Lunelli 2. Lindsey Vonn, on her victory in Cortina during the World Cup

Three years ago, the Television Academy chose us to celebrate the winners of the Los Angeles Emmy Awards. In the album of memories there are also other special toasts made in USA that we like to remember: skier Lindsey Vonn’s victory in Cortina for the World Cup, Michelle Obama visiting Expo 2015, with the Ferrari Riserva Orgoglio Italia, a bottle created specifically for the event, and finally former US president Barack Obama in 2017 in Milan for Seed&Chips. . BUREAUCRACY. To be successful in the US, it’s important to initially focus on some specific States or cities because it is not easy to penetrate such a vast territory simultaneously. In our case, the main cities for consumption are currently New York, Los Angeles, Chicago, Miami and Las Vegas but we see good opportunities also in Denver, Houston, San Francisco and Seattle. It should be noted that, despite the US being considered the homeland of free trade, the wine market in America is very bureaucratic and regulated, by virtue of a series of laws and whose origins date back to the times of prohibition and which are often different from one State to another. For example, it’s very difficult to use the product for event sponsorship and in some States, online sales are still not possible. Sometimes I feel it’s easier to move a weapon from one state to another than a carton of wine. This does not change that the US is the largest wine importing market in the world and can work very well there. We supervise trade with a team led by Export Director Alberto Lusini, composed of an Italian-based export area manager, Massimiliano Giacomini, and a Brand Ambassador, Jamie Stewart, who instead lives in the US. PROTECTIONISM. We see the future as positive. The air of protectionism that in recent times has prevailed and the recent war on tariffs worries us, but we are also convinced that the wine will not be affected, if only because between the US and Italian wine world there has always been strong cohesion. There is room for everyone.

The first market for Italian wines. Not in quantity (whose primacy goes to Germany) but in value. In 2017, the US bought 1.4 billion in Italian wine and Italy is the leading US supplier, with 3.3 million hectoliters (+1.7% vs. 2016). France, with a two-figure progression, driven by rosés, managed to overcome Italy that suffered the stalemate on the still wines. Six out of 10 Americans consume alcohol. Among the drivers of growth, also online purchases, driven by the change in styles of consumption by the “millennials”.

Overall bottles produced by Ferrari: +5 million

Total export percentage:

15% Total Usa market export percentage:

25%

– Matteo Lunelli, President and CEO Cantine Ferrari

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SEPTEMBER 2018

STORIES

GERMANY

PRICES. Big numbers at low prices: for many years Italian wine in the German market was just that. Partly due to a socio-economic situation that was for a long time affected in the purchase choices by post-war conditions, Germans bought food and beverages at the best price. In recent years, however, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a change. Almost two thirds of German habitual consumers now say that the choice of wine is an important decision. We confirm this also on this market since we started producing bottles, that is from 1962, when 19 winemakers from the municipality of San Marzano di San Giuseppe (Taranto) decided to get together (today theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re 1200 winemakers). Over the last 10/15 years, thanks to the increase in quality of local wines and, therefore, Germans, consumers who were previously very rational and price-oriented developed good sensitivity for quality and for products belonging to higher market segments. Careful: the German one is a market where quality/ price ratio is decisive.

A market where quality/price ration is crucial. The 50th anniversary of Cantina San Marzano on the German market

1. Francesco Cavallo 2. The vineyards of Cantine San Marzano

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10 WINERIES FOR 10 NATIONS

CONSUMPTION. The most sold and requested wine that concerns us is Primitivo, in the variants Igt and Manduria appellations. In fact, the most appreciated labels are two which perfectly represent the market and its contemporary evolution: Il Pumo, Primitivo Salento Igp and Sessantanni Primitivo di Manduria Dop. The Il Pumo range represents the immediacy and balance that can be achieved in Salento wines. The Primitivo of this line is a full-bodied red, soft and harmonious, easy to drink and pleasant, loved for its immediacy and for the value quality/price ratio. I still remember when 15 years ago all importers agreed that it would be impossible to sell a wine called Primitivo, Primitiv in German meaning “primitive” in the worst possible sense. Today it’s one of the best selling Italian red wines on that market. DISTRIBUTION. Cantine San Marzano in Germany distributes mainly to specialized trade and to medium and high-end delicatessens. The main competitor is Spain, although Puglia has been able to carve out its own very specific market. Distribution channels are mainly HoReCa and online. Lastly and in a marginal way the Gdo.

2017

985 mln euro volume 5,63 mln hl

value

First quarter 2018

314,26 mln euro

values: vs. 300,2 mln in 2017

153,6 mln litres

volumes: vs. 168,7 mln litres in 2017

Historical market for our country and second destination for Italian wine - also by virtue of the many Italians immigrated in the last decades and the choice of Italy as a tourist destination - Germany is the leading importer of wine, with a pro-capita consumption of 20,6 liters. GDO, of which three out of four bottles are sold, plays a major role in sales. The weak point remains, therefore, the price. The strengths are however, stable consumption, reliability and little attention to current trends.

– Francesco Cavallo, President Cantine San Marzano

Overall bottles produced by Cantine San Marzano: +10 million

Total export percentage:

70% Total German market export percentage:

29% 2

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STORIES

DISTRIBUTION. Since 2003, I have personally supervised the UK market for our company, since I returned from my professional experience in the United States. In the United Kingdom, unlike the States, for example, the on-premise channel is very different from the off-premise channel. In the sense that we need to know the dynamics of both distribution categories well, year after year. Over the entire territory, concentration of great organized distribution chains counts more and more. Nowadays the four major players occupy about 80% of the market. This leads to great competition in terms of portfolio and price. The HoReCa segment has undergone a strong evolution in the last decade and is seeing very sophisticated, international, fusion restaurants as protagonists. In such an evolved context, the opportunity to promote Italian wines of different denominations is really interesting. In the United Kingdom, medium-high dining chains are also strong. Moreover, this is a common trait in the whole Anglo-Saxon language world. With our subsidiary company in London, Zonin1821 UK, founded in 2005 and with a turnover of ÂŁ40 million in 2017, we operate in the two channels with different strategies. Our company has an international portfolio that, in addition to our offer of Italian wines, also selects spirits, beer and Champagne. Lastly, the United Kingdom is the most

Prosecco and Pinot Grigio in Gdo, natives in Horeca. Zonin1821 narrates the UK market

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10 WINERIES FOR 10 NATIONS

2017

810 mln euro volume 3 mln hl

value

First quarter 2018

204,4 mln euro

values: vs. 215,3 mln in 2017

74,2 mln litres

volumes: vs. 88,2 mln litres in 2017

4 1. Francesco Zonin 2. The barrel room 3. The exterior of the enoteca, where it’s possible to taste and buy wines, oils and grappa produced in the Zonin family estates 4. The vineyards of Zonin1821

interesting Old World market for online sales. In fact, in the UK there are many online clubs with top clients. The role of delivery is also excellent. Like Zonin1821 these don’t meet any particular bureaucratic issue. Oenological taxation in the United Kingdom was already present even before Brexit. Thus, no decisive changes have occurred. CONSUMPTION. If we look at the types of Italian wine most requested and sold, in the GDO the most requested are few and, above all, Pinot Grigio stands out. The only big news of the last 10/15 years was Prosecco. As for the HoReCa channel, this country instead has a strong interest in the discovery of the natives. Increasing fascination is found in Southern Italy with its Mediterranean vines. On the competition front, the New World has certainly had a particular impact on market dynamics: South Africa is the new competition in addition to Chile and Australia, more than in other markets.. CURIOSITY. I would like to mention a particular anecdote. London is a metropolis, a world capital where you always drink new things and find anything you may want to uncork. An evening that I will always remember was that of a few years ago, at one of our clients, The Arts Club. With their sommelier, who is a friend of mine, I was tasting the Chianti Classico Riserva di Castello di Albola. He showed me a loyal guest who, every week, joined them for a dinner that he enjoyed alone, ordering bottles more or less important depending on the working day. That evening, between a chat and the other, we shared a glass of Yquem ‘900...

Third market of reference for Italy, the UK has shown all its dynamism in the last decade, with the consumption of rosé to the detriment of traditional beer. In the Italian offer, Pinot Grigio and Prosecco play the starring role. Today, however, this market is also the most uncertain, mainly due to Brexit (although 2017 has closed with a + sign), to which is added the instability of the pound and the growth of domestic wine production, also favored by climate changes.

Overall bottles produced by Zonin1821: 50,9 million

Total export percentage:

86% Total Uk market export percentage:

27%

– Francesco Zonin, executive vice president Zonin1821

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STORIES

SWITZERLAND The fourth reference market for Italy seen from the Varvaglione 1921 winery

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARKET. We can state that the Swiss market for Varvaglione was one of the first to be “conquered”. We started to export in this country around 2010 and it was my mother who wrote the first reports. We are still working with one of our most historic importers who distributes us both in a high-end market and directly to individuals, especially in the Zurich and San Gallen cantons. At the beginning it was not easy: we had to explain and promote appreciation of a completely new variety like Primitivo, certainly more full-bodied and structured than the local wines. SALES CHANNELS. Today the HoReCa sector, which is where we are stronger, makes us proud, as the product is no longer proposed but is rather requested. Something’s also changed in the large distribution because requests have gone from generic Rosso Puglia to a more specific vine such as Primitivo PDO, which is now recognizable and increasingly requested. From our experience, we can say that today the Swiss market is looking for wines with an average price range, ready to drink and easy to appreciate. In the case of Apulia we can talk about Primitivo and Negroamaro with Salento denomination, although in recent years, these were joined by the whites and rosés from Puglia. The latter are proving to be a new rising star on the international scene. The HoReCa channel, on the other hand, is where we push towards a product of a higher price range like Primitivo di Manduria DOP. This channel has grown a lot in recent years and our wines are now appreciated and recognized by the Swiss palates who were used until recently to much more linear and tannic French wines. Today, however, when they look for more full-bodied and enveloping wines, they ask the Apulians to reflect these characteristics much more. Finally, there is e-commerce that is only taken into consideration by the wine shops that are able to offer their customers an extra service with this new channel. COMPETITORS. The first competing country is certainly France because of proximity and being a great wine producer even if Italy in general is able to hold the comparison for the quality/price ratio of its products. Another competitor may be Spain, although with a medium-low price and quality. From a bureaucratic point of view, Switzerland can be said to be an “easy” country. In these almost 10 years of work in the area we have never fortunately had any kind of issue; it’s a very developed market that has no particular demands for customs or taxation. Surely in these years our great fortune was also having found the right partners that made the job easier. CURIOSITY. An anecdote worthy of mention is certainly one involving one of our importers. The owner, Mr. Michelangelo, a member of a family of Italian origins who lives in Zurich, is an 80-year-old gentleman who during every time I

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10 WINERIES FOR 10 NATIONS

was in Switzerland took me around the restaurants that carried our brand. Among my best memories there is him, small and perfumed, who spoke a slang of Italian and Calabrian mixed with German and that punctually mispronounced words and did not know the proper use of the light signals in the car. It was fun to work with him. Today we only have dinner together at the end of the day but to this day Switzerland in my mind is linked to him. Our other importer, on the other hand, is a lover of Italian, French and international wines. The first time I went to see him, he showed me his wine cellar full of wines with emblazoned names and in the middle of these there was a box of Papale Oro, our peak Primitivo di Manduria, at that moment my heart was full of joy and pride. Â&#x2122;

2017

359 mln euro volume 757 k hl

value

First quarter 2018

129,8 mln euro

values: vs. 109 mln in 2017

25,6 mln litres

volumes: vs. 23,5 mln litres in 2017

Fourth place for Italian wine, the Swiss market remains one of the most interesting for high-end labels: the average price is 5.59 Euro. Consider that the Swiss purchasing power is very high. The percentage of Italian wines is 41.4%, with a marked preference for red wines (62.9%), followed by whites (30.2%) and bubbles (6.9%). Helping to promote exchanges with Italy, are geographical proximity, but also a dining boost.

â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Marzia Varvaglione, brand manager Varvaglione 1921

1. Marzia Varvaglione 2. Varvaglione 1921

Overall bottles produced by Varvaglione 1921: 4 million

Total export percentage:

87% Total Swiss market export percentage:

10% 2

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STORIES

CANADA Sixty years of Fontanafredda in the monopoly markets

GAMBERO ROSSO

MONOPOLES. The marketing of wines and spirits in Canada is reserved for the Liquor Control Boards that in every province and territory, except Alberta, holds control of import and distribution. Fontanafredda has been on the Canadian market since the 1960s. Our Barolo Tradizione was the first Barolo to be listed by SAQ, the Monopoly of Quebec, and by LCBO in Ontario. Like all monopolistic countries, Canada presents itself as a very demanding market, challenging strong competitive pressure, given the presence of many gate keepers and precise rules that if on the one hand guarantee fairness, on the other donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t offer much flexibility. Canada is a big country with many markets because its different provinces and territories have different dynamics. The degree of liberalization and peculiar selection procedures followed by each Monopoly is different, but also the dynamics of consumption undergo various influences with the West which is more predisposed towards American wines and the East thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more oriented towards European wines.. Historically, our business relationships have been concentrated in Quebec and in Ontario, the two historical provinces of reference which, in the last 15-20 years, have been crossed by internal market dynamics linked to an increase in wine promotions in the general listing and resulting in a lower profitability of sales. This led us to lean towards speciality listings or vintages where the criteria is much more selective and involve a limited distribution by the Monopoly, but thanks to which itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s possible to convey more premium wines. On the other hand, we geographically moved our attention to the markets of the west of the country, seizing the new opportunities offered by the other Canadian provinces. In Alberta, for example, the transition from the monopoly to the free market system encouraged the development of large retailers specialized in wine, which allow us more wiggle room. In British Columbia, where a mixed system remains, in the last fifteen years we have noticed a growth in the culture of wine fueled by the growth of local wine production and the boom recorded in neighboring US states such as Oregon and Washington. Our market management strategies have changed dramatically. We initially started with a different agent for each province, but for some years now we have decided to rely on a national agency that allows us to build our brand and better coordinate the various marketing activities implemented on the various provinces. This is giving us great results: we are no longer compartmentalizing, each province is seen as part of a single large market where the brand must have a unique value and identity. CONSUMPTION. Canadian consumers greatly appreciate Italian wine, which in recent years has earned first place in sales, followed by the US and France. Among the most sold types there is certainly Pinot Grigio, Chianti and blends es-

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10 WINERIES FOR 10 NATIONS

2017

333 mln euro volume 796 k hl

value

First quarter 2018

97,7 mln euro

values: vs. 97,8 mln euro in 2017

23,5 mln litres

volumes: vs. 24,4 mln litres in 2017

2 1. Roberto Bruno 2. The Fontanafredda vineyards

pecially in red wines. Among the Piedmont wines the best known and most requested is undoubtedly Barolo, but also the Barbera world is well represented, especially in Quebec. With regard to distribution channels, our Canadian partner oversees retail, dining and online channels with a particular focus on HoReCa. In the latter, even if all purchases are passed through the Monopoly, the development of private imports has allowed us to gradually introduce a much wider and more qualified range of products than in the past. Furthermore, as far as the digital channel is concerned, growth prospects are very promising and there are many interesting initiatives that are emerging with online wine sales sites that are transversal to the provinces. We are present in some of these with the Fontanafredda brand, but also with other companies in our group. CETA. The EU-Canada free trade agreement, pending ratification by the Member States, should have positive repercussions on the already robust trade relationship that binds us to the Canadian economy. The most stringent protection measures against counterfeiting or unfair competition of imitations under the banner of Italian sounding should further protect the many Italian local food specialties, which are now under threat. Despite the critical voices arisen in recent weeks by those who consider the degree of effective protection deriving from the agreement to be insufficient, we believe that CETA can be an absolutely favorable exchange channel for our exports, representing a great opportunity for the wine sector. Â&#x2122;

Fifth outlet market for Italian wines, Canada is a constantly growing market: in 2017, +9% on both value and volume. On September 21st, CETA, the free trade treaty with the European Union that provoked conflicting reactions, came into force, but only provisionally, with the Lega-M5Stelle government ready to not ratify it. Specifically, for wine, the agreement provides for the recognition of 150 European Ig (41 Italian); the abolition of Cosd (ie, discriminatory practices towards imported wines); the limitation to private businesses that sell only domestic wines. On the other hand, it liberalizes the Canadian meat and durum wheat trade.

Overall bottles produced by Fontanafredda: 8,5 million

Total export percentage:

40% Total Canadian market export percentage:

10%

â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Roberto Bruno, direttore generale Fontanafredda

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STORIES

SWEDEN The importance of monopolies and focus on organic and brand. The story of Settesoli

GAMBERO ROSSO

MARKET. For twenty years, Cantine Settesoli has been commercially presiding on the Swedish wine market with excellent results. A mature market that, in the last fifteen years, has seen consumption levels stabilized around 200MLN liters per year, equivalent to about twenty liters of wine per capita. For Italian wines, the internal dynamics highlight a strong growth over time, which has allowed our country to become the first supplier for the red wine category. CONSUMPTION. If we look at the most significant trends, these indicate an important request for full-bodied reds well suited with the Sicilian production. It should not be noted that Swedish consumers are very much tied to the consumption of wine in bag-in-box formats, which have now reached around 55% of the market. In general terms, it can be said that on the Swedish market the brand has become increasingly more important than the wineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s origin and varietal wines. Regarding the products obtained from organic farming, the Swedish market is particularly sensitive to the genus, so much so that this type of wine has reached 20% of the market shares. If, moreover, we look at the types most requested by consumers, as well as paying particular attention to Sicilian wines, Swedes also appreciate Ripasso and Amarone from Veneto, and Primitivo from Apulia. In short, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a natural consumer predisposition towards aromatic whites, full-body reds and wines made from native grapes. COMPETITORS. Among the most important competitors in the Italian wine segment, we note a good affirmation of

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10 WINERIES FOR 10 NATIONS

2017

164,8 mln euro volume 525 k hl

value

First quarter 2018

59,2 mln euro

values: vs. 49,2 mln euro in 2017

19,9 mln litres

volumes: vs. 17,1 mln litres in 2017

Sweden, as the seventh market, recorded purchases of Italian wine for 164.8 million Euro in 2017 (+6.4%), with a further leap forward in the first quarter 2018, to almost 60 million Euro. Here, state monopolies regulate the entry of products from abroad. Italy is the leader of this Scandinavian market, where red wines are the most popular type (over 70%). Organic, sustainable wines, recyclable packaging are crucial elements to win over a consumer who is very attentive to these specific values. 2 1. Salvatore Li Petri 2. Settesoli’s vineyard

Overall bottles produced by Settesoli: 24 million

new wineries and new Apulian producers, which are now entering the Swedish market, as well as a good presence of wines from Piedmont and the main denominations of this territory. MONOPOLIES. I remember that 100% of the Swedish market is managed by the Monopolies. Therefore, marketing activities such as promotional campaigns or discounts are not permitted. One of the effects of this type of management is the delay in main market trends, compared to other countries where sales are not regulated this way. However, once these trends take hold, the Monopolies themselves encourage and support them. What’s certain is that the presence of the Monopoly determines a bureaucratic obstacle in the sense that it causes a slowdown in the mechanisms of introduction of new wines and new products. But, as far as I am concerned, I would like to point out that our importer, Ab Nigab (who is part of the Hans Just group), is bound to us, besides in a partnership, in a feeling of extreme trust and even deep friendship. Our partner always believed in our project. We know this to be the secret of our strength and the growth of Settesoli’s business in this market.

Total export percentage:

70% Total Swedish market export percentage:

15%

– Salvatore Li Petri, General Director Settesoli

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STORIES

JAPAN Manga, winebars and lucky encounters. Umani Ronchi’s experience in the Land of the Rising Sun

GAMBERO ROSSO

BEGINNINGS. We have to go back 35 years to talk about Japan and the first time Umani Ronchi in what would become the winery’s first market in the world. It all started with meeting a small importer in love with Italy and the good things of our country (almond paste and Sicilian puppets), an attentive wine expert, interpreter of quality and a supporter of small local wineries. Then the rest came with the marketing of our wines, carried out by my father Massimo, to the point that it became necessary to have a more solid and branched out distribution structure beyond the big cities. Thus began the happy collaboration with Montebussan, an organization specialized in Italian food and wine, based in 7 different Japanese locations. A solid partner that has been supporting and accompanying the penetration of our cellar in Japan for the past 25 years. CONSUMPTIONS. Obviously, lately many things have changed: while on the one hand the consumption of wine has increased, especially among new generations (3 litres per capita) and interest in small productions has increased, on the other the theoretical recession of Japan and the entry of many (more affordable) wines have contributed in lowering the average propensity to spend. This is the macro-scenario that has emerged in the last 15 years, also with the addition of Chile, Spain and Australia, countries that represent today’s competition. However, in Japan, Umani Ronchi is a strong and recognizable brand, with a widespread clientele. Our wines are present in mid-range and high-end restaurants. And also in department stores where more and more wine shops are being established with a strong research and broader wine selection. If examining the most requested types of wine, certainly in first place we find red wine, but also a good consumption of whites and bubbles. In general, in Japan you can drink fairly soft wines, not too thick, and there are no fashion trends like back home. Let’s say that it’s not a “massifying” country, so much so that today we are witnessing an opening towards different denominations. Verdicchio has also entered many restaurant groups as a table wine, for every-day enjoyment. DISTRIBUTION. The distribution of Umani Ronchi wines takes place mainly through the HoReCa channel, followed by Department Stores (Harrods-style franchises) and online sales which are gradually growing. Fortunately, from a bureaucratic point of view we don’t have big obstacles: the road is downhill, especially now after the agreement just signed between Japan and the European Union, which will also eliminate the obstacle of customs duties. CURIOSITY. The most bizarre thing that happened to us in Japan was ending up in a manga! I’ll explain... Les Gouttes de Dieu by Tadashi Agi, is the most famous Japanese manga inspired by wine. It’s the story of a father who, after his death, leaves the young son with a will that leads him to solve a series of enigmas about wine, in order to receive the inheritance. Among the wines of this story is our Jorio Montepulciano

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d’Abruzzo. A very special appearance that brought us visibility and success also in Korea, which translated into an increase in sales of that product. When reality exceeds imagination… But back to more concrete experiences, we can’t avoid mentioning the three Umani Ronchi Wine Bars opened in Japan. It’s a project that sees us alongside Dynac, a Japanese chain with over 270 branches throughout the country, as a testimonial of the quality of the Marche products, starting with wine. Before joining the venture, our partners came to Osimo to study and select the right products to be imported, but above all to learn the secrets of who cooks in our kitchen every day. A training session on wine and recipes that were then adapted to Japanese eating habits. We look forward to this experience in order to further consolidate our presence in Japan. The results prove us right. After the three “Villa Bianchi” wine bars in Tokyo, we are preparing for the fourth opening: next up is in Osaka.

2017

162,6 mln euro volume 442 k hl

value

First quarter 2018

47,9 mln euro

values: vs. 45,0 mln euro in 2017

12,3 mln litres

volumes: vs. 12,9 mln litres in2017

The land of the Rising Sun, with 162.6 million Euro for Italian wines, is the eighth market for Italy, despite the somewhat discouraging entry barriers: 31% on sparkling; 15% on the bottled; 19.3% on bulk (>2 liters). But from 2019 Jefta should come into force, a trade agreement recently signed between Japan and the European Union which provides, in addition to the recognition of 205 European names (45 Italian Ig), zero tariffs for EU wine.

– Michele Bernetti, CEO Umani Ronchi 1. Michele Bernetti 2. The page of the Les Gouttes de Dieu manga by Tadashi Agi, featuring Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Jorio by Umani Ronchi

Overall bottles produced by Umani Ronchi: 2,9 million

Total export percentage:

70% Total Japanese market export percentage:

12% 2

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STORIES

CHINA How to preside over the country of the dragon. The strategies of the Caviro group

GAMBERO ROSSO

STRATEGIES. The story of Caviro in China begins in 2010, when the reference export manager is given the task of getting to study the market closely, examining the dynamics and commercial characteristics. Shortly thereafter, in 2014, a “Representative Office” was set up in Shanghai, which involved a local Chinese team led by Caviro’s chief representative, who moved to the city. This operation proved to be fundamental to face the challenges that this market posed, seizing the opportunities it was able to offer. In fact, China is a vast and constantly evolving market: over 1 billion and 400 million inhabitants, 23 provinces and 4 cities of over 25 million inhabitants each with their own administrative autonomy, customs and traditions. CONSUMPTIONS. The new generations, with access to modern schooling, to international media and traveling abroad, have reflected the strongest change in terms of new eating habits. Specifically, they prefer drinks like wine compared to strong local distilled liqueurs and show a general interest in knowing the main types of wine coming from the various countries of origin. Chinese consumers mostly prefer wines with high alcohol content, concentration, fruit and roundness; instead they rejects acidity, tannins and a particularly vinous aftertaste. Consumption is more concentrated during social events and social gathering outside the home. The most consumed wine is still: about 80% of consumers choose red wine, 10% white, 8% sparkling wine - mainly sweet or semi dry (consumed by young people), 2% rosé. The target of reference for a mass market company like ours starts from a positioning from 50 to 200 renminbi

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2 1. Riccardo Maltini 2. Harvest in the Caviro vineyards

2017

130 mln euro volume 377 k hl

value

First quarter 2018

39,2 mln euro

values: vs. 36,6 mln euro in 2017

11,1 mln litres

volumes: vs. 11,5 mln litres in 2017

Eleventh customer country of Italian wine in 2017, with 130 million euro, a strong increase compared to the previous year (+28.7% in value and +25.9% in volume) and further up in the first four months of 2018 (€39.2 million, +7%). China is the eternal promise for Italian companies. Market has always been considered to have great potential, if you look at the number of inhabitants, but extremely complex in the relationship with consumers. Despite the good result of 2017, Italy remains fifth wine supplier, with France and its big reds dominating over everyone.

to consumption going up to 500. The goal is to reach a significant distribution and important volumes to spread the notoriety of the company, but at the same time building value. The basic distribution consists of local points of sale for alcohol and native wine. On the other hand, the GDO is mainly linked to the knowledge and diffusion of the brands. Recently also the online wine trade has acquired importance, thanks to the immediacy, both of the communicative force and of delivery to consumers. Another significant channel is represented by the dining sector thanks to the socialization context. COMPETITORS. In this market, French wines maintain market leadership in terms of values and volumes, although Australia and Chile have eroded significant market shares, thanks to the commercial agreements signed in recent years with China, which have zeroed tariffs on wine. Italy is in fourth place, but with growth potential in market share and objectively relevant value. Our country benefits from a positive image, associated with history, artistic heritage and the beauty of the landscape. To tell the story of our wine production, that’s unfortunately little known, we must invest in promotional campaigns. BUREAUCRACY. In China, as in other countries outside the EU, the exchange of goods is governed by specific regulations. The supplier and importer must ensure that the product characteristics and mandatory descriptions on the package correspond to those requested. Attention to regulations is fundamental to avoid that a non-compliance, even of mere bureaucratic order, may delay delivery and create additional costs for prolonged storage, relabelling and new production of the exact accompanying documentation.

Number of litres sold by Caviro in 2017: 190 million

Total export percentage:

30% Total Chinese market export percentage:

– Riccardo Maltini, Country Manager Asia Pacific Caviro

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STORIES

RUSSIA Unstable but promising. The “red square” market According to Cantina di Soave

GAMBERO ROSSO

CRITICAL ISSUES. In the last decade, Russia has established itself as one of the most promising markets, although stability has certainly not been the defining element of this market, to the contrary. Think of the cancellation of import licenses and the subsequent re-issue of these, which led to a temporary block on imports. Then there’s the always complicated management of the banderole that must be requested and purchased by the importer and then applied by the manufacturer or by authorized logistic centers. Not to mention that the law itself on banderole has been subject to constant changes. Finally, the collapse of the ruble, with consequent devaluation and great difficulties of the importers, some of which have also failed. DISTRIBUTION. Despite everything, Russia for Cantina di Soave is today a market worth one million Euro. As for the GDO, we successfully sell Veronese DOCs as Soave, Bardolino, Valpolicella and Pinot Grigio (especially in the Anglo-Saxon version “blush”). The HoReCa channel, on the other hand, mainly requires renowned wines of great prestige such as Ripasso and Amarone. Over the years we also recorded a sort of “broadening of horizons,” if before we worked only with Moscow and St. Petersburg, today we

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see consumption spread also to other regions, thanks to a greater knowledge and awareness of winelovers who are always looking for quality. COMPETITORS. Our competitors are international, from Chile to Australia to South Africa, but the competition does not worry us because Italy benefits from a certain reputatiom, which helps a lot, along with the Italian food that’s very present and established on Russian soil. Our approach on the Russian market was very prudent, for years and years we observed, then we made contact with MBG - Moscow Business Group, a very serious reality that offers guarantees both in terms of economic solidity, and in terms of product portfolio and distribution structure. In hindsight, having the patience to wait for the right moment was a winning choice: we weren’t flattered by the many requests that came from various Russian importers and we waited for the best conditions.

2017

111,4 mln euro volume 478 k hl

value

First quarter 2018

25,19 mln euro

values: vs. 23,89 mln euro in 2017

10,7 mln litres

volumes: vs. 11,9 mln litres in 2017

Russia, which is the thirteenth market, seems to have lost its wings with regards to purchases of Italian wine. After two years of suffering for the ruble devaluation, as a result of the EU embargo followed by the crisis in Crimea, this great country has risen. The +43% recorded at volume and value in 2017 and also the good performance of the first quarter 2018 (from 23.8 to 25.1 million Euro) demonstrate the dynamism of this market, where Italy appears among the first suppliers of wine, especially in the sparkling wine.

– Luca Sabatini, Export Manager Cantina di Soave 1. Luca Sabatini 2. The barrel room at Cantina di Soave 3. The vineyards of the Cantina

Overall bottles produced by Cantina di Soave: 30 million

Total export percentage:

50% Total Russian market export percentage:

3% 3

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STORIES

BRAZIL A young market, but already very disputed. The experience of Duca di Salaparuta, between protectionism and fierce competitors

GAMBERO ROSSO

CONSUMPTION. Corvo has been present in Brazil since the 1980s. But it was in the last 15 years that in this market the value of imported wines tripled. This growth, in a country where consumption is historically concentrated for 80% on beer, 15% on spirits and wine reserves only 5%, is undoubtedly interesting and betrays the market potential. The change is largely due to the increase of the middle class, with a good spending capacity, and which is developing a newfound oenological culture. The trend is a clear preference for red wines (80%) compared to white wines. And this above all paradoxically in the north of the country (characterized by a tropical climate), where locals consume almost exclusively reds, even on the beach when there are 30°C. Something that has always seemed rather bizarre. ITALIAN WINES. Italian wines represent a not huge share of the market, with a prevalence of Tuscan and Apulian, in addition to Lambrusco and sparkling wines. Sicily is well represented especially by Nero d’Avola, which is particularly appreciated, along with international vines bred in Sicily such as Merlot and Syrah. The Duca di Salaparuta Group is present mainly with Corvo Rosso (which accounts for 70% of the 120 thousand bottles sold), historically one of the first Sicilian wines exported to Brazil and one of the best known brands, which is located in the price range between 60 and 70 Real (medium-high range). But over time, we decided to expand our vision by investing also on the traditional channel thanks to Duca di Salaparuta reds such as Làvico, intense and elegant Nerello Mascalese cultivated in the Tenuta di Vajasindi, on the slopes of Mt Etna, and Duca Enrico, Nero d’Avola par excellence. Finally, the wines of the Calanìca Line, four blends that combine a native grape variety and an international one that give wines sensuality and particular appeal. TARGET. For us, the main channel remains the Gdo (75%), followed by the regular trade (25%) and e-commerce (5%). Corvo is mainly present in the San Paulo area. Our target audience is undoubtedly the new middle class. Equally important, however, is the population of Italian origin (which makes up 15% of the country’s total). In the last year we worked mainly on Corvo, whose blend and label have changed, to appeal to a younger audience, which has a greater knowledge of the world of wine and that consumes more consciously both at the table and for leisure. The massive presence on the market of South American, Chilean and Argentinean wines, has oriented consumers’ tastes towards the intense and rich wines typical of the Nineties. Corvo, however, that since its birth in 1824 boasts a contained alcohol content and a remarkable refinement, has worked for many years to locally promote the concept of modern and contemporary wine, more oriented towards elegance and lightness even in the red wines. To do this, marketing activities (gift on packs, special packs during the year and with special focus at specific times) and trade marketing aimed at the final consumer have been significantly implemented. In 2017 we organized over 70 product tastings, managed by sommeliers in the stores, to help communicate a fresher and more cosmopolitan new approach to the world of wine.

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2017

38,8 mln euro volume 147 k hl

value

First quarter 2018

10,5 mln euro

values: vs. 9,1 mln euro in 2017

3,4 mln litres

volumes: vs. 3,3 mln litres in 2017

Brazil appears in the top 20 Italian wine customers. As one of the most promising markets, in 2017 it spent 38.8 million Euro, with enviable +60% in value and in quantity. After Portugal, Italy is Brazil’s 2nd largest food and beverage supplier. In the wine sector it’s the 4th supplier. Even in the first quarter of 2018 purchases are up: €10.5 million vs. €9.1 million in 2017. In the last five years, Italy is well on the Brazilian market, where buying power of the middle class has increased (38% to 60% of the population, 210 million people) and high income classes (from 7% to 15% of the total). 2 1. Filippo Cesarini Sforza 2. The tasting room

Overall bottles produced by Duca di Salaparuta: 11 million

COMPETITORS. The biggest competition comes from South American countries such as Chile (which holds 45% of the market and which since 2015 is experiencing great growth) and Argentina (20%), in addition to the countries of the Old World, such as Portugal, Spain and France. In addition, domestic production is also increasing both in regards to quantitaty and quality, especially among sparkling wines. The Brazilian market is complex, with uncertain dynamics due to political and social instability. There is a strong protectionism tendency, and tax regimes are penalizing imported products. Added to this is the risk linked to exchange rate fluctuations and the numerous documents and certifications required to bring the product into the country. A dedicated label is also required. The main problem, however, is the protectionist in addition to Mercosur, the common market of South America, which thanks to free trade agreements favors the circulation of goods at subsidized rates between countries such as Chile and Brazil. There are also trade agreements between Brazil and Portugal that make exports easier for the latter. For Italy there are certainly considerable costs and difficulties. However we believe very much in the development potential of this market, a young one from an oenological point of view.

Total export percentage:

30% Total Brazilian market export percentage:

– Filippo Cesarini Sforza, General Director Duca di Salaparuta S.p.A.

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HEINZ (AND TERESA’S) SENSE FOR BUSINESS BECK, A GERMAN OF ROME, AND HIS ECONOMIC EMPIRE Can a great chef also be a great entrepreneur? This is the question we are trying to answer with a serious insight for a few months now on this magazine. After Antonello Colonna, the Alajmos, Alciati, now it’s Heinz Beck’s turn, exploring his economic empire that starts from Rome and radiates in the world

Words by Federico De Cesare Viola – photography by Alberto Blasetti

STORIES

t’s precisely when you think you no longer need marketing is when you need it the most. It means that you are at the top of your game and that’s when everyone would like a slice of cake. You are attacked from all fronts, you cannot go wrong and you have to be even more present in all the venues. This is the first thing the teacher told me at the Management School in Bavaria: I will never forget her». Rome-adopted German Heinz Beck has recently hosted on the terrace of La Pergola the presentation of the Rome 2019 issue of the Gambero Rosso guide, dedicated to the Capital where, once again, he occupies the highest tier, with 95 points out of 100. For the occasion he showed off an unusual mustache of Teutonic rightness, which now shine in the golden light, just before sunset in front of a city that’s “always beautiful, but that today would need quite a bit of makeup”. LA PERGOLA Even during our long chat with enjoyed with a view, there are those who approach to ask for a “slice of cake” to the chef - whether it’s just a selfie or a quick chat - before sitting down at the table. There are many regulars at this restaurant that’s fully booked every day of the year and with a long waiting list. 85% of the guests are European, of these 65% are Italian; then English, German (Ratzinger came three times, even to celebrate the day of his 70th birthday) and French. There is a client from Paris who comes four times a year for five days in a row: «And every evening - confirms the chef we propose a completely different dining itinerary, it’s not a problem. The most beautiful and true compliment of a client is when he/she returns. The secret of La Pergola, even after more than two decades, is that it’s always renewed and that I personally do so the greater part of public relations all over the world». The personal secret of Beck, however, is Teresa, his wife since 2001. With the Palermo-native who studied in Les Roches, the chef created in 2005 the Beck & Maltese Consulting, a streamlined structure that moves with great speed and flexibility to manage the whole galaxy of restaurants worldwide, plus activate new consultations. Heinz loves being a frontman, but Teresa wants to stay behind the scenes, silent and implacable, to take care of the whole administrative aspect of the brand.

CONSULTING B&M Consulting operates on three business models: a simple consultancy (as in the case of De Cecco, for which Beck takes care of their sauces line); a management contract (used in Tokyo and in the two hotels in which the entire F&B sector operates: the St. George Restaurant at The Ashbee in Taormina and Brown’s in London) and a full-on partnership (in Dubai, as well as in Fiumicino with Attimi where it participates with 40% alongside the Cremonini group that has the remaining 60%). The nature of the collaboration (or consultancy service) may be different: in the past it was determined by the achievement of a goal, for example the Michelin star as in the case of Marennà (Feudi San Gregorio’s restaurant) or Castello Banfi in Montalcino; today the work is more tied to a time frame, whether this be a startup or a repositioning on the market. «Each consultation – says the chef born in 1963 in Friedrichshafen on Lake Constance, but now a Roman citizen – has its own dynamics and issues to be solved. Once it may be the supply of raw materials, as it happens in Dubai; other times it may concern salaries or ethnic groups, in other cases the size of a structure, the rent costs or its location, for example in an airport. The relaunch is always more difficult than an opening: if they call you it’s because there is something that just does not work. Our team consists of me and Teresa, we do not delegate to others: she takes care of the brand strategy, contracts and logistics, I cover the operational aspect and according to individual needs we seek external consultants for the tax and legal part, because in every Country the rules are different. For each project we also choose the right designer: in London it was easy because it was directly occupied by Olga Polizzi, the sister of Sir Rocco, while the new Attimi in Milan carries the signature of the talented Fabio Novembre». And then, of course, there is attention to service - to “art and science” Beck has dedicated a book written with Umberto Giraudo, Simone Pinoli and Marco Reitano - who here on the 9th floor of the Rome Cavalieri always strive to perfection. «In all the places I manage - he underlines - I look for the symbiosis between the kitchen and the dining room. Customer well-being is part of a global concept. The best service is one that nullifies the customer’s anxieties before the f client even realizes it».

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1 1 and 2. The La Pergola dining room at the Rome Cavalieri: a terrace that embraces the whole city from the Monte Mario hill, a corner of privacy for the chef too, during one of his (very frequent) work calls 3 and 4. Heinz Beck in the kitchen while he experiments new dishes for his menu 5 . One of the chef’s spring GLVKHV XQLRQ RI QREOH āVK (turbot with asparagus and codium) barely touched by the heat and freshly cooked vegetables, cream of vegetables and seaweed powder, drawing a seascape. Synthesis of taste, color and lightness

THE DINING ROOM TWELFTH COMMANDMENTS, ACCORDING TO SIMONE PINOLI, RESTAURANT MANAGERAT LA PERGOLA.

HEINZ BECK

1 The guest comes first and our ego must never overshadow it.

2 Service is made up of rules and customs but at the same time it’s important to have a tailor-made approach and to be flexible. Each table is a satellite in and of itself that runs in a different way and must be observed carefully. Every customer must feel unique.

3 “Yes, we never say no”. Always propose one or more alternatives instead of simply saying no.

4 We must make sure every guest leaves the restaurant fully satisfied. Any misunderstanding or inconvenience must be resolved before the guest leaves.

5 The service should always start a little earlier and finish a little after the time strictly necessary for dinner. It may be assistance to find parking on arrival or a taxi request to return home.

The dining room and the kitchen are part of a single team, there are no walls, the goal and objectives are exactly the same.

7 Customers should never have to ask, we must be able to anticipate desires before they surface or resolve anxieties and problems before they happen.

8 Internal communication is essential, in particular the sharing of information regarding each table.

It’s important to invest in other experiences around the world and put oneself in the shoes of the customer, even sitting at the tables of one’s own restaurant to enjoy the same view and to check that everything is perfect, from lights to flowers, to the symmetry of the table.

10 The coffee or herbal tea must be perfect because it is the last memory that the customer will have of the evening.. 2

11 The uniform must always be impeccable, at all times we do not represent ourselves but rather La Pergola.

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Never be satisfied of one’s work, we can always do better and find a new detail on which to be even more attractive and effective.

STORIES

1983 – Heinz Beck acquires the status of chef at the Passau Berufschule in Bavaria

1989-1991 – Chef de partie at Tantris restaurant in Munich, three Michelin stars

1986-1989 – Chef de partie at Colombi Hotel in Freiburg

1992 – Becomes a Docent and Master of Cooking at the Alzigern Hotelschool Altoetting

1994 – Heinz Beck is appointed Executive Chef at La Pergola in Rome

1991-1993 – 1993 – Head Chef at Harlekin Sous Chef at Residenz restaurant of Esplanade Grand Heinz Winkler in Aschau Hotel in Berlin

1980

1990 GAMBERO ROSSO

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1996 – Obtains Three Forks by 1999 – La Pergola Gambero Rosso, and receives its first still retains them Michelin star

HEINZ BECK

THE HUMAN FACTOR About 50 people are employed at La Pergola: 19 in the dining room, 16 in the kitchen, the rest between stewards, booking office and cleaning staff. There are many requests for internships. Making the selection (and enduring over time) is who is able to show passion, precision, dedication and humility. Ask Maurizio Sinopoli, who has been here for 24 years, more precisely from the day of the opening: «It was the first permanent contract - remembers the chef who now boasts three Michelin stars - we are practically married! Respect for me is fundamental, it’s the basis for any long-lasting collaboration». Throughout the entire global network the workforce exceeds 200, at Beck at Brown’s in London alone there are over 30 chefs. For medium and senior positions, from sous chefs to chefs, sommeliers to restaurant managers, Heinz is always there in person interviewing the candidates, checking the essential requirements: «For me it’s essential that a candidate follows a journey with us, with our imprinting. Candidates must possess sensitivity for taste and aesthetics, must know how to manage staff, must be confident with cost control, in order for a restaurant, after the startup phase, to start bringing profit in the shortest possible time. La Pergola (whatever anyone says, Ed), is a profit center that has broken even after 3 years». Last March, Beck received the Honoris Causa Degree in Natural Bioenergy from the Università Popolare di Arezzo, thanks to his long-standing interest in all the health aspects of food. From the project with Gemelli Hospital in Rome, for example, to the arguments on individual dishes such as the now classic risotto with Parmigiano water (and then Grana), without fat but with the same taste and a large amount of amino ac- f

ACTUAL DINING EXPERIENCE: WHAT TO EXPECT AT DINNER AT LA PERGOLA.

1 Monogrammed initials on the napkins of regular customers and their guests.

2 Reading glasses available in all prescriptions.

3 Water list with more than 50 labels. The rarest and most precious? Norwegian Svalbardi, obtained from the icebergs and glaciers of the Svalbard islands, on the menu at 210 Euro.

4 The wine cellar, curated by Marco Reitano, contains 73,000 bottles for about 3,800 different references, ranging from 50 Euro to 35,000 Euro for a 1961 Petrus magnum.

5 The herbal teas are prepared tableside, cutting the leaves from the aromatic plants present on the cart.

6 Single-origin or special coffees, such as Kopi Luwac, are ground with an old mill and prepared in front of the customer with a Cona machine for a more delicate extraction that preserves the beans’ most important aromas.

7 There is a cigar room with humidor and a selection of over 25 Cuban cigars, to enjoy while admiring smoke-themed artwork..

2013 – Inauguration of Gusto by Heinz Beck at 2016 – Attimi by Heinz 2018 – Management of the F&B 2001 – Heinz Beck 2005 – Teresa and Heinz co-found 2008 – Heinz Beck Beck opens in Terminal 3 at department of Beck at Brown’s at Brown’s marries Teresa Maltese. Beck & Maltese Consulting s.r.l. manages Cafè Les Paillotes the Conrad Algarve in Portugal. The American Academy of Hospitality Sciences Fiumicino Airport Hotel in London. He earns an honorary Second Michelin star Launch of the consultancy for De Cecco in Pescara bestows him the “Six Star Diamond Award”. Leonardo Da Vinci degree in Natural Bioenergy conferred on food products, including a sauces line by Università Popolare di Arezzo 2009 –Beck is appointed Brand 2014 – Social by Heinz Beck 2004 – Publication of “Arte e Ambassador of Mercedes. 2017 – Management of St. George by Heinz opens in the Waldorf Astoria Palm Scienza del Servizio” written with 2006 – La Pergola “Heinz Beck – L’ingrediente Beck at The Ashbee Hotel in Taormina. Jumeirah in Dubai. Umberto Giraudo, Simone Pinoli and wins its third segreto” is published by Mondadori Ruliano with Heinz Beck opens in FICO Eataly Heinz Beck opens in Tokyo Michelin star Marco Reitano World in Bologna

2000

2010 GAMBERO ROSSO

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STORIES

HEINZ BECK STARS La Pergola del Rome Cavalieri, Rome RESTAURANTS MANAGED BY BECK & MALTESE S.R.L. Café Les Paillotes, Pescara Gusto by Heinz Beck al Conrad Algarve, Almancil Social Heinz Beck at Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah Heinz Beck Restaurant, Tokyo St. George Restaurant by Heinz Beck al The Ashbee, Taormina (entire management of the F&B department)

Beck at Brown’s del Brown’s Hotel, London (entire management of the F&B department) PARTNERSHIP Ruliano per Heinz Beck at FICO Eataly World, Bologna Attimi by Heinz Beck, Fiumicino (RM) and CityLife (MI) CONSULTANCIES De Cecco (food and dining) Mercedes (automotive) Omina Romana (wine)

6. Olive oil risotto with Grana Padano, vegetables and scampi in pinzimonio olive oil dip: perfect and delicate preparations 7. Calamari tortellini with plankton and seafood: lightness, always, and bright color to underline the vitality of the dish and its ingredients 8. Vegetable composition 9. Heinz Beck in the kitchen: the chef, German by birth and Roman by adoption, is manically concerned with attention to detail, he must try and test anything that is prepared by his staff before it is served 8

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HEINZ BECK

THE PHOTOGRAPHER’S EYE Working with Heinz Beck was pure adrenaline. The rigorous atmosphere of the

kitchen,

perfectly

clean and tidy, contrasts the kindness and friendliness of the chef. Photographing his dishes is actually easier given the perfect composition and the creativity in his colorful games. Portraying the chef in the sumptuous dining room, illuminated by the light filtering in from the most beautiful terrace overlooking Rome, is definitely exciting. – Alberto Blasetti

GAMBERO ROSSO

SEPTEMBER 2018

ids: «Every meal always ends the day after; too often it happens to go to dinner in a restaurant, only to sleep badly, wake up in bad physical and mental shape and not be productive the morning after: this thing costs us much more than a nice lunch. A meal that makes you feel good is priceless». After more than two decades at the helm of the most famous restaurant in Rome, Beck still loves being at the center of the action: «The moment I love the most is cooking during the service, not only at the pass but also in the stations. This is how you don’t lose touch with the reality of your core business, cooking and creativity: you have total control, you are close to the product and you can immediately correct an error. In addition, you have direct contact with the people who have to guarantee the quality, you can motivate them, you get your hands dirty and give a good example, that’s where the younger ones start to follow you». When you’ll read this piece, the new Attimi di Milano, inside CityLife, will be finally inaugurated, on the same lines as the original opened in 2016 at Terminal 3 of Fiumicino Airport. A new and innovative format characterized, among other things, by the guarantee of time-based menus (the bestseller is the one for 30 minutes) that minimize gate anxieties. How will the Milanese audience answer? «In Rome - explains Beck - Attimi is very conditioned by the flow of passengers at the airport, without flights you have no customers. In Milan, the public will be different, especially business, but time will still be an important variable. The concept will be more complete, with restaurant, bistro, bar and pastry, I think it can work very well». Are there already new partnerships in the pipeline? Yes, but at the moment they’re secret, with a big desire to plant further flags on the globe. «I’d like to bring my brand to the United States - he continues - maybe in Los Angeles or Miami. I had several offers but we never managed to conclude. In every business there are too many variables, even the best concept can fail in the wrong place and vice versa. The professional approach always matters but sometimes it’s also luck that guides you». The lucky charm of Heinz Beck is called Teresa, it’s she who makes sure that a project is always sustainable and profitable: «I would not be where I’m at without her».

GAMBERO ROSSO www.gamberorosso.it SENIOR EDITOR Lorenzo Ruggeri PHOTO EDITOR Rossella Fantina LAYOUT Maria Victoria Santiago CONTRIBUTORS Stefania Annese, Gianluca Atzeni, Michele Bernetti, Roberto Bruno, Francesco Cavallo, Gianni Fabrizio, Matteo Lunelli, Riccardo Maltini, Salvatore Li Petri, Luca Sabatini, Filippo Cesarini Sforza, Marzia Varvaglione, Francesco Zonin, Federico De Cesare Viola, William Pregentelli, Loredana Sottile PHOTOGRAPHS AND DRAWINGS Alberto Blasetti (cover)

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GAMBERO ROSSO

September 2018

NOVEMBRE 2017