Gambero Rosso WIne Travel Food 123

year 21 - number 123 - november 2018 - gamberorosso.it

WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

Brunello: the new map.

What has made Montalcino So Big? Top Italian restaurants Our Pizzeria of the year is in NYC, the Restaurant in Sydney, the Chef in Paris...

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Wine&Trends How's the taste changing in Asia? We crossed 4 Asian Countries

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PARMA Find out our guide to the gourmet capital of the Food Valley...

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year 21 - number 123 - november 2018 - gamberorosso.it

WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

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Brunello: the new map.

What has made Montalcino So Big? Top ITalIan resTauranTs Our Pizzeria of the year is in NYC, the Restaurant in Sydney, the Chef in Paris...

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WIne&Trends How's the taste changing in Asia? We crossed 4 Asian Countries

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The tast of those who purchase Food News Wine News Tre Bicchieri conquer the Chinese Market Top Italian Restaurants 2019.

Here are the best Italian restaurants in the world Higher and higher. destiny of excellence in the name of Brunello Recipes. Manuel Bouchard Parma. In the capital of the Food Valley

parMa Find out our guide to the gourmet capital of the Food Valley...

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The taste of those who purchase Some time ago, while looking for something else on the web, I came across a precious quotate by a 1700s Burgundian clergyman who complained of a dangerous deviation from the classic style of the CĂ´te de Nuits wines. To please the taste of the most important market of that era for those wines, i.e. the English one, Burgundian winemakers began producing increasingly darker, alcoholic and concentrated reds. According to the priest, this was exactly the antithesis of what a great Burgundy red should be: a wine of finesse, subtle elegance, supported by the right amount of acidity and certainly not that naturally dark hue Pinot Noir doesn't express. Unfortunately I didn't bookmark that page on the browser, and I don't even remember if it was an English or a French source. It's unusual, however, that even at that time people were making this kind of observations. Often the wine writer tends to express similar concepts, generally referring to the Italian wine scene, accusing the market and the American critics, who are guilty - this time - of dangerous influences on the stylistic choices of our producers in the most classic areas, such as Langhe, Montalcino, Chianti Classico. It's clear that this happens because all wine that is not produced for self-consumption must be sold and must first satisfy the buyer. But to what extent can the natural character of a territory and its grapes be distorted to please a market?

It's a question that, as you can see, does not belong strictly to our era (and perhaps not even to the world of wine) and that does not have an easy answer. History and the evolution of taste are perhaps the focus key point of the problem. If, however, for Burgundy we can't accept that the archetype of Pinot Noir is an alcoholic dark and very tannic red (even if at certain times and on certain markets it's been for the most current wines, but certainly not for the great crus), the same goes for our more classic terroir, where traditional grapes, such as Nebbiolo and Sangiovese, with their natural elegance and finesse, dictate the style. In this perennial oscillation between structure and concentration wines, and wines of finesse and territory, today we are in a second phase. The comforting part ( for us) is that even the end markets, at least the most advanced and mature ones, have realized it, and aren't looking for unnatural variations on the theme, perhaps obtained with heavy "innovative" additions of international grapes, and an unbalanced use of new woods.

The fascinating aspect of the Italian wine scene is that there is always - however - a wine that "naturally" satisfies the taste of a given market. We are the country of a thousand grapes and a thousand terroirs... We wanted to devote this issue to a Tuscan town that has just over 5,000 inhabitants but that is known all over the world for its unique flavor. We're talking about Montalcino, its incredible story.

We're talking about Brunello. — Marco Sabellico

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NEWS

GUALTIERO MARCHESI AND THE GREAT ITALIAN CUISINE WORLD TOUR. AROUND THE WORLD WITH THE MAESTRO’S MOST FAMOUS DISHES It’s almost been a year since December 26 that the world of Italian cuisine was left orphaned of its most esteemed maestro, Gualtiero Marchesi.

The occasions to wax poetic and celebrate the chef’s constant commitment to be a father figure to great many Italian chefs of today, have been numerous. The latest initiative of the Gualtiero Marchesi Foundation, coinciding with the launch of the third edition of the Italian Cuisine Week in the world (started on 12 November), underlines another of the merits gained in life by the Lombard chef, who was one of the first to become an Italian brand ambassador, insisting on making early on high-quality national cuisine a brand that had to be promoted abroad. This is the reason why his most famous dishes are the true protagonists of an international gastronomic tour that pays tribute to the master with the history of Italian cuisine, thanks to the involvement of his former students. The stages of the tour? A brdge connecting Chicago and New York and the Far East, with planned dinners in Hong Kong, Beijing and Tokyo; and then Europe, in Paris, Berlin, London and Moscow, before concluding in Milan on March 19, coinciding with the anniversary of Mar-

chesi’s birthday. Coordianting operations, in all the dinners of the Grand Tour, is Antonio Ghilardi, also the pride of the Marchesi team, joined from time to time by some of the chef’s most famous pupils: Pietro Leemann in New York, Luca Fantin (who plays at home) at the Bulgari Ginza Tower in Tokyo, Carlo Cracco, Davide Oldani, Alfio Ghezzi, Enrico Crippa, Andrea Berton will be variously involved in the other stages scheduled in the coming months. In fact, the initiative aims to celebrate Italy of the Arts tout court, relying on the greatness of a chef who knew, and wanted to look beyond the kitchen, infusing dignity to the cooking craft being rediscovered as a cultural system in which all the arts can interact, including music, design, visual arts and fashion. The tour will serve to tell all this – every dinner will be preceded by the projection of the Italian documentary film “Gualtiero Marchesi the Great Italian” – but also to promote the agricultural productions of the Italian peninsula, enhanced at the table thanks to dishes with a cult following, from the seafood dripping, to the scallop salad with ginger and pink peppercorns, to the Omaggio a

VERTICAL GARDENS IN NEW YORK RESTAURANTS. THE SURGE OF DIY AGRICULTURE ect “The new paradigm of agriculture”. In his Downtown NYC restaurant, Temple Court, the chef uses Bowery’s arugula for his wasabi. Furthermore, Farmshelf, a New York startup that deals with building small vertical gardens within restaurants and hotels. There’s also Farm.One, with two locations: one within the Institute of Culinary Education and another, in TriBeCa at the award-winning Atera restaurant in Manhattan. The operation therefore is simple: chefs and restaurateurs choose to create a garden right inside their restaurants, relying on specialized professionals, investing and in return getting natural, fresh and uber-local products all year round. A unique opportunity to raise the quality level of the offer even more, and also to inform and create greater awareness among customers. Of course, this is innovative agriculture, hydroponics to be exact, a technique of off the ground or soil-free cultivation, where the soil is replaced by an inert substrate, such as expanded clay, coconut fiber, rock wool or zeolite. Able to produce up to 50 kilos of mushrooms per week – among the products currently most chosen by chefs – of many different varieties, from shiitake to pioppini. The cost to create a vertical vegetable garden?

It’s quite high: prices start from a minimum base of $3,500 for smaller farms, but the satisfaction for the most passionate chefs to put their specialties on the table is priceless.

A new fashion in the agri-food field is born in the Big Apple: a DYI farm (official name, “vertical farm”), an interior garden that attracts investments of restaurateurs, store managers and property owners. Like the one in Smallhold, for example, entirely dedicated to mushrooms and created through the collaboration of restaurants and food shops. Or the Bowery Farming, which recently started selling its own vegetables to Whole Foods, which counts among its major investors celebrity chef – and Top Chef judge – Tom Colicchio, who defined the proj-

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Verdicchio by nature, organic by culture We have guarded for 35 years our vineyards carefully, rigorously and with dedication in the Verdicchio Classico area. And we have harvested for 35 years the grapes for our Organic Casal di Serra, trademark of our land.

Umani Ronchi - Via Adriatica 12 - 60027 Osimo (AN) ITALIA - Tel. +39 071 7108019 www.umanironchi.com

CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO (EU) REGULATION NO. 1308/2013

NEWS

WINE OF THE MONTH OP M. CL. VERGOMBERRA ‘13 BRUNO VERDI via Vergomberra, 5 - 27044 Canneto Pavese [PV] www.brunoverdi.it ex-cellar price: 18 euros + taxes This is a real hidden gem and a world class sparkling wine. For years now we have highlighted Paolo Verdi’s gifts. Paolo Verdi is one of the best producers in north of Italy. We’re in Oltrepò Pavese, the winery offers a wide range of medium-high quality wines, from absolutely valid local reds to ageworthy Metodo Classico sparklers that exhibit incredible personality. The fact that Paolo’s son Jacopo is on board fulltime is reason to hope that the tradition will continue. By now their Vergomberra (70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay) has taken on a well-defined personality, setting itself up for the heights of excellence.

This brilliant straw yellow-colored 2013 offers up aromas of lime, basil and mint, while in the mouth it expresses force and generosity, with extremely fine sparkle that tantalizes the palate and generates an electric tension. Vibrant.

HARVEST. FOR ASSOENOLOGI, THE VINTAGE CLOSES AT 52.6 MILLION HECTOLITERS. HERE IS THE TREND, REGION BY REGION With the harvest coming to a close (at the end of November, in Sardinia, the last bunches destined for dessert wines will be clipped) Assoeonologi provides the definitive data for this year: 52.6 million hectoliters, +24% compared to the 2017 harvest. The positive trend happens in every part of Italy. Lazio and Umbria are growing the most (+40%), but Veneto is the most productive region, which this year reaches 12.1 million hectoliters (+25% compared to 2017), thanks also to new plants in production. In the table below, the trend depicted region by region. The data in question is sourced with Mipaaft and no longer Istat (as in the estimates at the end of August), which photograph a vintage at 49 mln/hl. A difference of 3.6 mln/hl: not little. But beyond the divergence, one thing remains certain: the negative trend of last year is definitively closed and Italy is reconfirmed as the leading producer country. This doesn’t mean that this was an easy vintage: the weather pattern, characterized by rain, hail and humidity, has led to greater presence of fungal diseases, forcing vine growers to carry out many treatments to maintain the health of

2018 WINE PRODUCTION, REGION BY REGION BASED ON 2017 MIPAAFT DATA Hectoliters Production 2017 Mipaaft data 2.559.000 1.056.000 1.344.000 9.679.000 1.518.000 6.620.000 1.628.000 653.000 992.000 2.843.000 618.000 8.130.000 4.109.000 354.000 397.000 42.500.000

Region Piedmont Lombardy Trentino Alto Adige Veneto Friuli V.G. Emilia Romagna Tuscany Marche Lazio Umbria Abruzzo Campania Puglia Sicily Sardinia Others**

±% expected compared to 2017 +35% +25% +23% +25% +25% +28% +25% +25% +40% +15% +18% +20% +20% +10% +25% +24%

2018 Hectoliters on Mipaaft data 2017 3.460.000 1.320.000 1.660.000 12.100.000 1.900.000 8.480.000 2.040.000 820.000 1.390.000 3.130.000 730.000 9.750.000 4.930.000 390.000 500.000 52.600.000

Source: Associazione Enologi Enotecnici Italiani * The column indicates the production averages rounded and estimated for each region ** Valle d'Aosta, Liguria, Molise, Basilicata, Calabria

the grapes. The result is wines with lower acidity than normal, typical of variable climatic conditions. As for white wines ob-

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tained from the first harvested grapes, there is a good aromatic picture and an interesting intensity.

www.ferghettina.it

NEWS

AUSTRALIA. WINEMAKERS EXPERIMENT MORE AND MORE ITALIAN GRAPES. PROSECCO FLIES MAIN ITALIAN GRAPES HARVESTED IN AUSTRALIA (tons)

Source: WIne Australia

In countries where viticulture has had recent developments - much of the New World, Oceania, Asia, etc. – the winemaking heritage is based largely on “ubiquitous” or “international” grape varieties, while the other “alternative” varieties, introduced to diversify and experiment with new wines, occupy a very limited space. Australia illustrates this particular situation very well, so much so that, in 2018, 2/3 of the grapes harvested come from only four varieties (23% Chardonnay, 24% Shiraz, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot) on an overall 130 cultivated.

And if a total of 10 grape varieties represent as many as 89% of production, the other 120 come to just 11%. In this 11%, many Italian varieties are emerging, such as glera, sangiovese, fiano and vermentino (see chart). According to the government agency Wine Australia (WA), some of

these grapes are planted to respond to changing consumer preferences, others are experiments in view of the future impacts of climate change or, moreover, the desire to recreate a link with the land of origin (see the case history of Australian Prosecco). The latter – also strong in the global success of Italian Prosecco – is growing rapidly: if 2,500 tons were harvested in Australia in 2015, just over 7,000 tons of grapes were reached in 2018. According to WA, this would reflect the rise in popularity of Australian Prosecco among Australian wine drinkers.

According to IRI Worldwide, the value of Australian Prosecco sales in the domestic off-trade market has almost tripled in the last three years. In comparison, sales of Australian Sangiovese in the same period increased by 2% per year.

SURVEY. WINE SPECTATOR READERS ARE READY TO BUY ITALIAN WINES. BUT THE REAL COMPETITORS ARE THE CALIFORNIANS Twelve questions to understand from the readers of Wine Spectator magazine how much Italian wine is appreciated and, in particular, if the Italian Wine - Taste the passion marketing campaign, created in the USA by Ice agency, has achieved its objectives. According to the survey published in the October issue, advertising has attracted the attention of 67% of readers. 74% of them consider Italian wines comparable to refined Italian design, while 63% said that they will consider purchasing Italian wines. The link between craftsmanship, design and Italian artistic heritage to a fine red wine (described in the commercial) has evoked more than 70% of readers the passion for quality produc-

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tion. 90% of Wine Spectator readers say they drink Italian wines, while only 16% do it on a regular basis. A fact that, according to Ice, underlines the need for Italian producers to establish a more regular presence in domestic consumption and in the American dining sector, as the main objective of the US wine project launched by Ice in 2018.

Despite Italy remains one of the main suppliers, the study reveals that among the respondents, 34% and 48% are likely to buy a bottle of Californian wine respectively in the 10-20 dollar price range, and above 20 dollars, confirming that the main competitors in the US market are precisely the local wines.

NOVEMBER 2018

CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REG. UE N. 1308/2013 CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EU REGULATION N. 1308/2013

Amarone della Valpolicella Great family prestige from 5 generations

Via Costabella, 9 - 37011 Bardolino (VR) Lago di Garda - Tel. +39 045 7210022 - zeni.it

TRE BICCHIERI CONQUER THE CHINESE MARKET Two Gambero Rosso events that testify to the success of Italian wine in China

by Giuseppe Carrus and Lorenzo Ruggeri

STORIES

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Along are the days when people thought that the Chinese market was still difficult to interpret, due to the size of the nation, or an uncoded wine culture that seemed to want only wines of very low price or Bordeaux cult wines. It was the producers the first to manifest these fears that, by now, have vanished.

TRE BICCHIERI IN SHANGHAI Gambero Rosso has been leading the best Italian companies in China, with ever increasing success, and this year - both in Shanghai and in Beijing - the events have confirmed the maturity of Italian exports to China and the interest on the part of the Chinese and the value of our wine. In Shanghai the event was dedicated to the Tre Bicchieri recipients and more than fifty companies participated. Thanks to the presence of buyers and professional sommeliers (there's buzz around town in regards to the profession and many young people study to work as sommelier) the vastness of our

national production was highly regarded, made of small artisans, large companies and family run wineries that have been producing for generations as well as winery cooperatives who for years produced wines of the highest quality at the right price. During the event there was a masterclass dedicated to the eleven special prizes of the Vini d’Italia 2019 guide.

"We have been present on the Chinese market for 4 years - Michele Montresor tells us about the Ottella company - we came here with the sole purpose of understanding the mechanisms to have a constant and not occasional presence. From now on it seemed clear that the fundamental thing was to convey the uniqueness of Italian wine. Uniqueness due not only to the characteristics of the vineyards or grapes or to the quality of the labels, but above all due to the culture of our society, to our history, to our art. The real key is getting ourselves known. I think - continues Montresor - that at this moment if producers become cultural ambas-

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3.

1., 3., 4 Tre Bicchieri Tasting in Shanghai 2. Italian Wines - chinese edition 5.. Contadi Castaldi Awards in Shanghai 6. Top Italian Restaurants Awards in Shanghai

GAMBERO ROSSO WORLD TOUR

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sadors of our nation, there is much space for the great Italian products in China. In this context, Gambero Rosso - concludes the Ottella speaker - has played and is playing a key role in the importation of Italian wines. Gambero Rosso in China has a high reputation even in public places and this is very important here. Thanks to Gambero Rosso many Italian wines have had their fame and this happens because here is a company with very important credibility."

However, it's not just wine that stands out during the event. Also at this stage we talked about quality Italian dining abroad. For several years Gambero Rosso selects and rewards the best Italian businesses in the world, be they restaurants, trattorias, pizzerias or wine bars.

In Shanghai, 4 businesses were awarded prizes. Starting with Otto e Mezzo, the beautiful venue of Umberto Bombana Shanghai, continuing with Va Bene, a restaurant with creative cuisine and a streamlined but fun wine list, then

moving on to Da Marco, a restaurant awarded with Due Gamberi, and concluding with Niko Romito al Bulgari who debuts with Due Forchette. Niko Romito also won the special "Taste & Design Award" partner of the Surgiva event, the Trentino water owned by the Lunelli family. Finally awarded was wine bar Uva da Contadi Castaldi, another special prize for Franciacorta for the best wine list.

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STORIES

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7. Contadi Castaldi Awards 8. Barilla 9. Top Italian Restaurants Awards in Beijing

VINI D'ITALIA IN BEIJING From Shanghai we travel to Beijing for the "Vini d'Italia" stage that includes wineries reviewed in the latest Guide.

Hosted at one of the great halls of the Four Season Beijing, more than thirty cellars offered tastings of their labels to the public. The presence was enriched by the Consortium of Sannio that, through a dedicated corner, introduced as many as 10 Campania businesses.

According to the producers, even in Beijing the exclusive trade presence (journalists, buyers, importers) marked the success of the event. "We started working in China eight years ago, but only through small local fairs where there was only talk of quantity and not quality. Everything changed when Gambero Rosso assigned Tre Bicchieri to the Carmignano Riserva and we decided to participate in the Gambero Rosso events." These are the words of Dario Pierazzuoli of Tenuta Le Farnete and Cantagallo. "Compared to the trade fairs in which we had already participated, in the meetings organized by Gambero Rosso we've always found a captive audience that tapped into the quality

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of the products, not looking merely at the price or weight of the empty bottle, an audience who appreciates lesser known local vines and microzones compared to the more famous Doc and Docg," continues Pierazzuoli.

Furthermore, even in Beijing, quality Italian dining is on the rise. The Top Italian Restaurant Guide available at www. gamberorosso.it/restaurants has awarded 5 restaurants. Mio, a restaurant located inside the Four Season, conquers Tre Forchette highest recognition. Due Forchette go to Opera Bombana, Una Forchetta to Cèpe, Due Spicchi for Bottega, one of the most convincing pizzerias in the East. Space also dedicated to traditional trattorias with Prego, a place that focuses only on traditional recipes of our nation.

In short, because of it's success, even Italian cuisine in China is in expansion.

By observing the cooking shows organized by Barilla (partner of the event) both in Shanghai and in Beijing was enough to understand the Chinese market's interest in Italian food and wine.

CALENDAR

Worldtour CALENDAR 2019

Worldtour

2019

GamberoRossoInternational

GamberoRossoInternational

2019 2019 JANUARY

MAY

21 MUNICH - Germany

trebicchieri

23 BERLIN - Germany

Vini d'Italia

06 SINGAPORE - Singapore

28 STOCKHOLM - Sweden

trebicchieri

09 ZURICH - Switzerland

30 COPENHAGEN - Denmark

Vini d'Italia

FEBRUARY

27 CHICAGO - Usa

BEIJING - China

15 BORDEAUX - France

Vini d'Italia - Special Edition Top Italian Wines Roadshow Vini d'Italia "en primeur" trebicchieri "en primeur" - VINEXPO Special

28 MONTREAL - Canada

Top Italian Wines Roadshow

30 TORONTO - Canada

Vini d'Italia "en primeur"

trebicchieri

JUNE MARCH

01 NEW YORK - Usa

trebicchieri

05 SAN FRANCISCO - Usa

trebicchieri

07 LOS ANGELES - Usa

trebicchieri

11 MEXICO CITY - Mexico

Top Italian Wines Roadshow

16 DUSSELDORF - Germany

trebicchieri PROWEIN Special

26 LONDON - U.K.

trebicchieri

03

WASHINGTON DC - USA

Top Italian Wines Roadshow

05

BOSTON - USA

Top Italian Wines Roadshow

10

ATLANTA - USA

Vini d’Italia "en primeur"

12

SAN DIEGO - USA

Vini d’Italia "en primeur"

OCTOBER

TOKYO - Japan

trebicchieri

NOVEMBER APRIL

07 VERONA - Italy

trebicchieri VINITALY Special

16 DUBAI - UAE

Notte Italiana - Best of Italy

Sponsor

SEOUL - Korea TAIPEI - Taiwan HONG KONG - China

trebicchieri HKTDC Special

SHANGHAI - China

trebicchieri

ST. PETERSBURG - Russia

trebicchieri

MOSCOW - Russia

trebicchieri

STORIES

OUR EVENTS IN TOKYO

Prosecco Doc: Italian genius in Tokyo Japan is paying increasing attention to Prosecco Doc: if the estimates prove to be accurate, 2018 could see a 20% growth in this market, which with over 3 million bottles is in tenth place in the export ranking. The Consortium is investing important resources in the promotion also on this scene: On October 30th as part of the Gambero Rosso World Tour, which in recent days has touched Asia with various events, during the Tre Bicchieri 2019 at the Ritz Carlton in Tokyo has held a popular masterclass for journalists and operators to deepen knowledge of Prosecco Doc, its territory and its history. A three-part conference, managed by Marco Sabellico, curator of the Gambero Rosso Italian Wines Guide, Isao Miyajima, well-known wine writer and Tanja Barattin, specialist in Asian markets for the promotion and valorization of the denomination, who is fluent in Japanese. «Prosecco Doc producers have an extraordinary propensity to export, and have made this sparkling wine, in just a few years, the most drunk Denomination of Origin wine in the world - Tanja told us - a result that was also obtained with a policy of presence and investments on the most important world markets. We have organized events all over the world, on all continents this year. We believe very much in the potential of this market, on which we are present with numerous initiatives». «Prosecco is delicate, fragrant, floral, can be enjoyed at any time, as an aperitif or combined with Japanese cuisine... It pairs perfectly with sushi, sashimi, tempura and many other local preparations - adds Miyajima - and also has a correct price point. It will only grow on our market». We must be optimistic, given the excellent results of the last years and the enforcement of the new Japan-EU agreement for the elimination of customs barriers. Sparkling wines are among the most penalized products, with an excise duty of 31% which in fact tripled the price of bottles at the origin... In short, new situations are opened and... a toast to this is a must!

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GAMBERO ROSSO WORLD TOUR

Lugana: Timeless harmony… in Tokyo During the Asian tour of Gambero Rosso, on October 30th the Lugana Consortium managed a space in the Tre Bicchieri event at the Grand Ballroom of the Ritz Carlton Hotel in the Japanese capital. Twenty-six wineries with their representatives, led by the director of the Consortium, Carlo Veronese, met local enthusiasts and operators offering their best labels to taste. After the success of the tour in the United States the producers of Lugana didn't miss the opportunity to visit one of the most interesting markets for the famous Garda wine. Japanese consumers are some of the most passionate and competent in the world, and the land of the Rising Sun imports the best of world oenology.

"There is great space for white wines and sparkling wines here - quoting Isao Miyajima, well-known food and wine journalist Our cuisine complements with great wines, and Lugana is already known and appreciated by us. Making it better known means giving a positive boost to the market. It's one of the ideal whites for our gastronomy, where fish plays a fundamental role. We love stylistic minimalism and complexity in a white wine. Two qualities that Lugana has always had, like the ability to mature over time". There are already many Lugana companies imported into Japan, but forecasts see a steady growth of the market over the next few years, with ample room for growth for this wine.

«We have high expectations on the Japanese market - explained Luca Formentini, president of the Consortium - The Japanese have all the characteristics to be our ideal consumer».

Custoza: a tasting in White and Gold in Tokyo Custoza is one of the most dynamic denominations on the Italian and international markets. The growing success of this white wine in the world is supported by the qualitative growth of the product, which in recent years has achieved important recognitions everywhere, including a series of Tre Bicchieri by the Gambero Rosso Vini d'Italia guide. In one of the events of the Gambero Rosso World Tour, which touches more than 30 cities worldwide every year, a very popular masterclass showcasing the great white Venetian took place in Tokyo on October 30th during the presentation of the Tre Bicchieri 2019 and the awards of the Japanese restaurants of the Top Italian Restaurants in the World Guide. The title "white & gold" describes well the spirit of these tastings. Custoza is a white with a multifaceted personality, which can be expressed in a fragrant sapid and floral white in youth, but which contains the ingredients and the structure to age with class, acquiring elegance and complexity and a beautiful golden color. This is what Marco Sabellico, curator of Vini d'Italia, and Isao Miyajima, an oenological journalist specialized in Italian wines, illustrated - glass in hand - to fans and Japanese operators, through a studied sequence of young and mature wines of the wineries present, with much appreciated talks by the producers involved.

«There are few white wines that can elegantly exceed 10 years of age - noted Miyajima - with this range of aromatic notes, this depth, this clearness of expression and at the same time with such a pleasant drinkability. A wine like this fascinates the Japanese consumer. Today's sequence proves this widely, as demonstrated by its great attitude to pair well with different gastronomic traditions, not least our traditional cuisine. And its success on this market testifies it year after year».

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TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS 2019.

HERE ARE THE BEST ITALIAN RESTAURANTS IN THE WORLD 500 restaurants from 35 different countries. This is how the Top Italian Restaurants guide celebrates its second edition, for 2019, which together with the gotha of the "Tre" Italian categories - Forchette, Gamberi, Spicchi, Bottiglie awards special prizes.

Here are the 2019 guide winners

words by Lorenzo Ruggeri - photos by Francesco Vignali

STORIES

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ompetitive, identitarian, increasingly proud in bringing its regional recipes to the table, and its simplest and most rustic profile, even in luxury settings. So the recipe for Neapolitan scarpariello finds its place in the major hotels in Hong Kong, the taste of Roman tripe marries Scandinavian wine cellars, Agerola fior di latte rests on increasingly good Neapolitan pizzas in New York. There are 5 million Italians living abroad, 100 thousand locals who refer to our traditions. In the Top Italian Restaurants guide we have selected 500: places managed by professionals, offering above all true Italian flavor. One made of products that speak of the production area, of who we are, and how we live. These are often stories of courage, chefs, pizza makers and sommeliers seeking something more. And success stories. Here are the special prizes of the Top Italian Restaurants guide. ď ś

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STORIES

Pizzeria of the Year Song’ e Napule – New York A corner of Fuorigrotta located between Soho and Greenwich. The pizzeria of Ciro Iovine and his wife Austria is a very small space, picturesque, more seats than there are square meters, complete with semi-hidden ATM machine amid Naples soccer tam jerseys. Pizza? Fabulous, thick and soft crust, with an enveloping and airy texture, perfect cooking and excellent digestibility. The high quality ingreduents include olive oil, San Marzano tomatoes, fiordilatte from Agerola, but it's the pizza craftmanship that makes the difference. The warm welcome and service are phenomenal. Do not miss the pasta and potatoes with provola dish.

Opening of the Year Don Alfonso – Toronto

After Macao and New Zelalada, the Iaccarino family re-launches an international challenge in Toronto, in the heart of the Financial District. And it does it in style, in a 19th century building, entrusting the reins of the kitchen to the chef Daniele Corona (Oliver Glowig's longtime wing man). Clean, neat Mediterranean flavors amid Italian marble finishings and a wine list containing over 700 references. A little more than 100 days from the opening the place is already in full swing, great service and a very well set menu: stand-outs include Rigatoni Vesuvios and an artfully crafted sfogliatella.

Wine List of the Year Osteria del Becco – Mexico City DF A dream winery in the Polanco district, at a stone's throw from the luxury boutiques of Avenida Presidente Masaryk. Rolly Pavia strongly wanted a vault of only Italian bottles, among the largest and most profound collections in the world, about 30,000 labels from the post-war period to today. The study on vintages is surgical, the impressive depth, many millesimes aren't even available in the original cellars. Rolly left Italy for Mexico at 17 with his father Angelo and created a veritable empire with several restaurants in Mexico City and beyond.

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GAMBERO ROSSO WORLD TOUR

Business Innovation Award Luigia – Geneva, Nyon, Lausanne, Dubai, Freiburg

Enrico Coppola and Luigi Guarnaccia have succeeded in creating a successful project focusing on careful research of directly imported ingredients, state-of-the-art management that takes advantage of new technologies both in training processes and in control systems. The final product is a high-end gourmet pizza, combined with an important wine list, in an appealing setting that pays utmost attention to customer care, complete with a play room for the little ones. The ability to replicate the format, making employees become partners, has allowed to maintain high quality unaltered in the various openings, from Geneva to Dubai.

Chef of the Year Michele Farnesi – Paris 29 years, chef, Tuscan through and through, and in his own way, also entrepreneur. Michele Farnesi trained at Osteria Francescana, and matured important experiences with his friends Giovanni Passerini and Simone Tondo in Paris, and again under Fulvio Siccardi and Jean-Francois Piège. He invested his savings in opening the Dilla bistro in Belleville. His signature cuisine is instinctive, with bold combinations and beguiling flavors. His courageous cuisine is tasty, and able to surprise with creative and ideas. French sensibility and Italian creativity, a pinch of anarchy and passion. He loves wine and has fun in the kitchen. And it shows.

Restaurant of the Year LuMi – Sydney This is the fine dining we like. Large windows overlooking the water in Pyrmont, in the Sydney bay: with well spaced tables and attention to detail without too much excess. Welcome to the reign of chef Federico Zanellato, nee 1980, globetrotter: first in London, then in Rome with Apreda and Beck, then in Japan at Riygin, experiences at Noma and Attica, and then opening his own place in Sydney with his wife Michela, sommelier. His Italian cuisine with Japanese contaminations is stimulating, careful to ingredient sustainability. His tasting menu is a perfect musical composition, made of peaks and intervals, perfect sum of his baggage. Pleasant service, and pairings with brilliant wines chosen among select vigneron between Italy and Australia, which we know little about.

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HIGHER AND HIGHER. DESTINY OF EXCELLENCE IN THE NAME OF BRUNELLO Montalcino is at the top of the tourist destinations that winelovers around the world want to visit. The Val d'Orcia has miraculously preserved its aspect made of history, iconic Italian untouched landscapes and then art, culture, food and wine, agricultural ingredients of absolute excellence... and above all the Brunello.

With a local economy that's in full expansion

worlds by Andrea Gabbrielli – infographics by Alessandro Naldi

STORIES

A

long the roads of southern Tuscany, the succession of soft rolling hills where oak and holm oak forests alternate with the cereal fields, vines and the olive groves, makes us enter another dimension. Here nothing is left to chance. The rural houses, the watch towers, the inhabited centers of medieval origin seem to be details of a painting of a Renaissance master.

Montalcino, the heart of these lands 40 km south of Siena, is a village that has remained almost intact since the 16th century, protected by an imposing containing wall and dominated by the Fortress, the Medici castle that characterizes the city skyline. From here the view ranges from Mount Amiata to Val d’Orcia, from Siena (you can see the battlements of the Torre del Mangia) and from the Crete Senesi to Montepulciano. On clear days you can see Alberese, on the coast, while the

sun rays make the waves of the Tyrrhenian Sea sparkle. The production area of Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino is bordered by the valleys of the three rivers Orcia, Asso and Ombrone, a sort of quadrilateral that extends over 243 square kilometers and rises from 120 up to 650 meters above sea level. Brunello was born in this context, an expression of the close union between art and landscape, Mediterranean climate and Sangiovese; in the name of the know-how of the local community. In this sense it’s not simply a great wine––Italian and Tuscan, known and appreciated all over the world––but rather a fundamental element of the Montalcino identity and an essential component of the material culture of the Val d’Orcia. «Brunello – observes Giacomo Pondini, director of the Consortium – is a brand known all over the world: you can’t resist its charm. But Montalcino is also a social fabric, a community that shares it like a value». 

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1. Overview of the village of Montalcino overlooking the Val d’Orcia 2. The celebratory seal for the year 2017 of the Brunello: created by Sting and Trudie Styler, and affixed on the wall of the Palazzo Comunale 3. A bunch of Sangiovese that has always been called Brunello in Montalcino 4. Sangiovese vineyards whose tufa and clayey limestone soil lend characteristics of complexity and robustness

All photos of this article are by Sara Matthews/ Consortium of Brunello di Montalcino Wine

TRADITIONAL AND TRENDING NEW RESTAURANTS FROM AMIATA TO VAL DI CHIANA

1 2

The whole area surrounding Montalcino has always been a good dining area.

The territory is kissed by fate and not only for wine, but also for the many products of the local agriculture that enrich the tables and make interesting the many eateries that dot the slopes of Amiata, Val d’Orcia, the Valley dell’Asso, the Crete Senesi and the offshoots of the Chiana. The news then (as highlighted by the series of restaurants taken from our new Guide Ristoranti d’Italia 2019 and included on the map) is not that in this area you can eat well, the news if anything are the news, projects and recent proposals that have helped to change the dining scene in the last years and months.

In the southern province of Siena, in short, many things have evolved for some time and it’s worth checking out what’s new. Although we first must mention the legendary Hotel Ristorante Il Giglio, one of the most emblazoned hotels in Europe at the beginning of the 20th century, where for generations the Machetti family has cultivated the passion and love for Brunello, offering a traditional cuisine in a modern way. Our journey starts in Montalcino: in terms of novelty, then, the must-visit place is Osticcio. Not a new name, but a management that completely transformed since the ownership has passed into the hands of a great business magnate like Giuseppe Valter Peretti who arrived in the area (from Veneto) firstly to invest in wine - Tenuta Ridolfi - and then realized that a fine dining destination was missing here. The old tavern-wine shop Osticcio has been completely renovated, the staff is all new and the development projects continue to enlarge the kitchen and give more space to the tower-house extending over several floors. But already today Osticcio offers Montalcino a gastronomic restaurant that was missing in Montalcino. «We have the ambition to become a significant nationwide reality – explains chef Ronald Bukri who arrived here after considerable experience in Italy and around the world - thanks to the stimuli of our guests: here it doesn’t feel like being in a small town, every day managers, entrepreneurs, businessmen come from Canada or the Napa Valley. People who are very knowledgeable on wine and food, and that stimulate us to do better.»

But Osticcio is not the only restaurant deriving from a large farm. The same path was taken some time ago by Perillà, in Rocca d’Orcia, which has chef Marcello Corrado at the helm and the Podere Forte colossus property, which guarantees a continuous supply of excellent ingredients. The result is a jewel restaurant that for many seasons has been a destination, although hidden and to be discovered, of this territory. Of course both Perillà and Osticcio, even though featuring their company wines on paper, offer a wide national and international choice of labels.

The courageous project of Idillyum is equally as international. Two top bartenders, Bledar Ndoci and Federico Fioravanti, met each other in Milan in the city’s most important cocktail bars. Here they decide to retire in the small town of Pienza to open their own place. Probably one of the least predictable contexts in the world where to open such a place. However, the success has been resounding and the first season, washed down with drinks made with wild herbs and local products, has been astounding. “After all - explains Bledar taking advantage of the area’s isolation - we are the only place open until late for miles.” Yet a stop in the underground level of Palazzo Piccolomini has become a must even for non nightowls. Not far from Pienza is La Foce, a magical place of ancient agricultural knowledge and of an enlightened entrepreneurship made of unprecedented respect for workers, peasants and farmhands. And here, next to one of the most renowned farms in Italy, comes Dopolavoro: Tuscan cuisine in a contemporary context, without folklore but offered in the name of an irresistible rural ambiance, with great service (at the helm of everything is a pro like Asia Chirdo), with great products, with beautiful selections (that can also be purchased) with identical satisfaction both in summer (beautiful patio) and in winter (grills and all the rest). “And next year - Asia anticipates - I will also open another place in Sarteano, downtown, across from the town theater. It will be a kind of Nordic bistro, but designed for the local public. This is proof of how the proposal is evolving here. And we close with the mysterious object of the moment: it’s called Mistura, it’s in Torrita di Siena, it belongs to an international group with offices also in California. The chef is Nicola Allegretta and the cuisine... is Peruvian. Will this be the it place in the coming months?

— Massimiliano Tonelli

STORIES

MONTALCINO AND BRUNELLO “The winding road that leads from Siena to the Orcia – writes the Sienese poet Mario Luzi – is a road out of time, an open road that with its twists aims to the heart of the enigma”. The most famous Italian red wine, its aromas and flavors, the very idea of Brunello, were born between the walls and the countryside of Montalcino, just over a century and a half ago. The extensive historical research carried out over the years all come to the same conclusion: Brunello has many fathers and does not have a definite date of birth. During the 19th century Clemente Santi, Tito Costanti, Camillo Galassi, Giuseppe Anghirelli, Riccardo Paccagnini, Raffaello Padelletti, Ferruccio Biondi Santi, all contributed in various ways to its development, starting from the Sangiovese grapes used in purity. It will take another generation, that of Biondi Santi with Tancredi and Colombini with Giovanni, to get the wine out of the narrow Tuscan area. Brunel-

lo, the engine of development and well-being of the territory played an important role in the rebirth of Montalcino and its countryside, after the destructive events of the first wave of phylloxera and the WWII. In 1960 the world around the vineyards was still made of dirt roads, ruined farms, carts pulled by oxen and olive trees battered by the devastating ice storm of 1956. With the opening of the Autostrada del Sole highway (1958-1964), the road traffic on the nearby Via Cassia collapsed, effectively isolating Montalcino. The abolition of sharecropping (1964), caused a further stalemate and the few remaining craft activities almost completely ceased to exist. In this dramatic situation, Ilio Raffaelli, mayor from 1960 to 1980, and with him some enlightened entrepreneurs, had the intuition that the only way forward was to focus on the increase in tourism and above all on bringing value to quality local products, wine in first place. And  that’s how it came to be.

4

THE MAYOR - TRAINING AND INTEGRATION, THE MONTALCINO MODEL Silvio Franceschelli, attorney, grew up in Montalcino and was elected mayor in Italy’s latest election, as part of a center-left coalition.

Montalcino also proposes itself as a model of social integration: is it working?

Montalcino also proposes itself as a model of social integration: is it working?

I would say definitely. Out of a total population of 5,919 inhabitants, 977 are foreign nationals equal to 16.51%, while in Italy the average is 8.4. Not only that, the other interesting fact highlighted by the recent research of Wine News is that here people of 70 different nationalities live here: men and women engaged in the wine supply chain or in the tourist industry, with assignments ranging from manager to winemaker, from secretary to shop assistant. Everyone contributes actively to the overall well-being of our territory.

What is the project on which the Municipality is the most invested in at the moment?

In addition to the Rural District we are planning a training school for agri-food professions: it will allow us to train generations of professional figures such as the butcher, the norcino pork butcher, the cheese maker... Professions able to give continuity to existing businesses in companies that would otherwise be destined to disappear due to lack of specialized personnel: this would result in a loss of added value and serious damage to the local material culture. The school will be built in San Giovanni d’Asso. Now we await for the response and commitments of the Tuscany Region for the necessary funding to support the project.

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3

VAL D’ORCIA AND BRUNELLO

EXCELLENCES AND RESTAURANTS OF THE TERRITORY 5km

E35

Arbia

AREZZO

Rapolano Terme

SIENA

Lucignano Rigomagno

CHIANINA

Foiano della Chiana

Asciano

Monteroni d’Arbia

Sinalunga

Lucignano d’Arbia

Farniole

La Fratta

SR2

WALTER RADAELLI

LA TORAIA Torrita di Siena Montisi Buonconvento

San Giovanni d’Asso

E35

MISTURA RESTAURANT

Petroio

LA GROTTA LE LOGGE DEL VIGNOLA

Acquaviva

IDILLYUM OSTICCIO Montepulciano LATTE DI LUNA BOCCON DIVINO Torrenieri LE POTAZZINE Pienza Sant’Albino MIELE, OLIO San Quirico OSTERIA DI PORTA AL CASSERO SALUMI DI CINGHIALE SALUMI DI CINGHIALE Monticchiello d’Orcia PECORINO DROGHERIA FRANCI FINOCCHIONA Montalcino LA PORTA IL POZZO Chianciano Terme OSTERIA DEL LEONE La Foce HOTEL RISTORANTE IL GIGLIO Bagno Vignoni RISERVA TAVERNA DEI BARBI NATURALE PERILLÀ DOPOLAVORO LA FOCE LUCCIOLABELLA Sant’Angelo in Colle

Castelnuovo dell’Abate

Castiglione d’Orcia

Gallina

Sarteano Contignano

Poggio Rosa Borgo Santa Rita

SR2

Montenero

SILENE

Seggiano

Bagni San Filippo

PECORINO, MIELE MONTE AMIATA

Monticello Amiata Arcidosso GROSSETO

Aiole

CASTAGNE, FUNGHI

Radicofani Abbadia San Salvatore

Piancastagnaio

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CINTA SENESE

San Casciano dei Bagni

STORIES

THE PRESIDENT OF THE CONSORTIUM GLOBAL CHALLENGE AND GENERATION CHANGE Patrizio Cencioni was unanimously elected president of the Brunello di Montalcino Wine Consortium in June 2016. Sixty years old, owner of the Capanna winery, one of Brunello’s historic cellars, already been President in 2008 and Vice-President in the three-year period 2013-2016.

How will the Consortium face the challenges of competing against the “fine wines” of the world?

We will continue to leverage the great resource that is our territory, its development and its protection, both from the point of view of the product and from that of the growth of everything that surrounds wine. It’s the only way to overcome the challenges that the future puts before us and which the Consortium is ready to seize. Wine together with tourism will be decisive.

What are the future prospects of Brunello?

I think they are basically very good because in these years we have achieved important milestones and we have increased our quality. These are results that the market recognizes us and for this reason we will also work on research in the future to improve both in the vineyard and in the cellar. Furthermore, the generational change gives us hope: our younger generations are highly specialized and are able to confront the world. In short, good prospects.

5

THE GREAT VINEYARD RACE. FROM FOREIGN GROUPS TO ITALIAN INVESTORS, EVERYONE WANTS TO MAKE BRUNELLO Montalcino is the wine-growing area where the greatest investments have been registered in recent years, especially by foreign groups. The international list is long and is destined to grow. The pioneers were, without a doubt, the ItalianAmerican Mariani brothers, who at the end of the Seventies created Banfi, a real giant. But since then many wines have gone under the presses and investments have multiplied: in 2000, Il Palazzone was acquired by Richard Parsons, former CEO of Time Warner and Citigroup; in 2011 it was the turn of Louis Camilleri, CEO of the giant Philip Morris International, who bought Tenuta Il Giardinello estate. In 2012 the Tenuta Oliveto, owned by the Machetti family, passed to the Soleya International Corporation of Panama. In 2013, Argiano, owned by Countess Noemi Marone Cinzano, was sold to the Brazilian investors group Leblon Investment Fund Ltd. In 2015, it was the turn of a group coordinated by U.S. Gary Rieschel of Shanghai Qiming Venture Partners, which secured the Cerbaiona company of Diego and Nora Molinari. In 2016, the foreign route touched the historic Italian wine brand Biondi Santi, passed under

the control of EPI (Européenne de Participations Industrielles) of Christopher Descours, which already has in its portfolio brands such as Champagne PiperHeidsieck, Charles Heidsieck and Château La Verrerie. A purchase of around 300 million euros (a figure never confirmed by the parties involved). Finally, in 2017, the Gloder family, which had managed Poggio Antico since 1984, sold the business to Belgian fund Atlas Invest, engaged in the energy and real estate sector, in its first investment in the wine sector.

But the biggest investment in these parts lies with the Argentinean Alejandro Bulgheroni, with his ABFV (Alejandro Bulgheroni Family Vineyards). In his hands, in order, were aquired: Poggio Landi (in 2012), the historic farm of the Fattoria de Barbi; Podere Brizio (2013), formerly of the Brescia entrepreneur Roberto Bellini; and Tenute Vitanza (2016), created by Rosalba Vitanza and Guido Andreatta. The latter operation was for a figure estimated at 15 million euros. But not only foreigners are attracted to Brunello di Montalcino. In 2018 it was, in fact, a Tuscan company to score the last blow in the Montalcino territory.

We’re talking about Cecchi winery, which

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bought an 8-hectare farm in Montalcino, 6 of which have already been planted, thus pinning a new flag in one of the most prestigious wine-growing regions of Italy, after those in Chianti Classico, San Gimignano, in the Tuscan Maremma and in Umbria.

The Cecchi family is just the latest in a long Italian list, including among others, Riccardo Illy, who bought the Mastrojanni winery in 2008, and Claudio Tipa (Colle Massari), who in 2012 secured Poggio di Sotto. In more recent times, there are: the investment of Giovanni Carlo Sacchet and Antonio Mario Zaccheo (Carpineto company) winning the bid on Il Forteto del Drago; the purchase of Fattoria Casisano Colombaio (2015), scored by the Venetian Tommasi Family Estates; and the arrival of the Cotarella family in Tuscany with the purchase of Le Macioche (2017).

These are important investments in a territory that’s in continuous turmoil, where the price bar continues to rise in step with the interests of investors. Just think that from 50 million lire of the 1990s, the value of one hectare of vineyard has gradually increased, up to today’s historic peak: 700 thousand euros.

— Loredana Sottile

VAL D’ORCIA AND BRUNELLO

When the law on the denomination of Brunello was promulgated in 1966 (becoming Docg from 1980), there were only 37 wineries active and 115 hectares of vineyards cultivated (64 specialized in Brunello and 51 promiscuous). To understand the situation, just think that from 1800 until 1930, the hectares of vineyards have never been less than 2,000 with peaks of up to 4,000. Today the reality is back at (surpassing) the numbers of a glorious past: the members registered in the Consortium are almost 260 (of which 208 bottlers), the Brunello vineyards extend for 2,100 hectares and production has increased from 13,000 to 10 million bottles.

tially the link between the wineries and the territory of production was very strong and in some ways obliged, in this new phase the possibility of weakening that link is real. In fact, apart from the staff present on site, decision-making power is often abroad where this connection is not felt in the same way. However, the tendency of selling the Montalcino companies, in the months and years to come, is due to continue. Brunello is increasingly attracting investors from all over the world - it’s estimated that for a hectare the average premium is around 500,000 euro - and on the other hand many businesses born in the Seventies/Eighties seem to have exhausted their life cycle. Now the owners, unable to continue the business for various reasons (financial, impossibility of family turnover, attractive offers, etc.) are passing the hand. Montalcino, from this point of view, is in full change - also in the way of percieving and living the territory - which will have its weight in the management of the fu- 

A WAVE OF NEW INVESTMENTS In Montalcino, the acquisition by foreign funds of local companies involved large and small wineries, including some protagonists of the modern history of Brunello, giving rise to important transformations in the production chain. If ini-

INVESTITORI ESTERI

2016

ALEJANDRO BULGHERONI

INVESTITORI ITALIANI

POGGIO LANDI

2011

TENUTA IL GIARDINELLO 2015

IL FORTETO DEL DRAGO €

2000

IL PALAZZONE

TENUTE VITANZA

2012

(ALEJANDRO BULGHERONI FAMILY VINEYARDS) ARGENTINA

da ROSALBA VITANZA E GUIDO ANDREATTA

da FATTORIA DE BARBI

2016

$

BIONDI SANTI

PHILIP MORRIS INT. U.S.A.

CHRISTOPHER DESCOURS

LOUIS CAMILLERI

$ (EUROPÉENNE DE PARTICIPATIONS INDUSTRIELLES) FRANCIA

CARPINETO

$

RICHARD PARSON

2015

U.S.A.

da DIEGO E NORA MOLINARI

2013

MONTALCINO

PODERE BRIZIO

2017

AZ. CERBAIONA

SAN QUIRICO D’ORCIA

$

GARY RIESCHEL

da ROBERTO BELLINI

POGGIO ANTICO

(QIMING VENTURE PARTNERS) SHANGAI

da FAMIGLIA GLODER

$

ATLAS INVEST

2017

BELGIO

2008

MASTROJANNI

2013

ARGIANO

2008

2012

POGGIO DI SOTTO

2015

da FAMIGLIA MACHETTI

CLAUDIO TIPA

€

SOLEYA INTERNATIONAL CORPORATION

da CONTESSA NOEMI MARONE CINZANO

TENUTA OLIVETO

$

LEBLON INVESTMENT FUND LTD. BRASILE

FATTORIA CASISANO COLOMBAIO TOMMASI FAMILY ESTATES

$

GAMBERO ROSSO

PANAMA

35

NOVEMBER 2018

€

€

RICCARDO ILLY

LE MACIOCHE €

FAMIGLIA COTARELLA

STORIES

100

HECTOLITRES BRUNELLO (thousands)

65

35 2000

HECTARES BRUNELLO

1500

1000 250

170

MEMBERS TOTAL NUMERS

6

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95 19

90 19

19

85

100

7

NOVEMBER 2018

VAL D’ORCIA AND BRUNELLO

95.764

2.024

5. Vineyards around Montalcino: in addition to the Sangiovese from which Brunello and Rosso come, Moscadello is also produced here 6. Piazza del Popolo, the town hall and the heart of the medieval village 7. A suggestive view of the countryside from the window of the Fortress

ture of the denomination. The recent history is a chronicle of these days, with changes in ownership of companies born in the Eighties and Nineties (see sidebar and infographic), the bids by international groups, the presence in the markets and on the most important tables in the world, the excellent results of Brunello di Montalcino in every international Top 100 ranking, of which the wine often occupies first place. As confirmed

by Patrizio Cencioni, President of the Brunello Consortium: «Even in the years to come, wine and tourism will be the indispensable engines for our future. Our strategic goal is to maintain and consolidate the image of Brunello as a high-end product firmly linked to the territory».

NOT JUST BRUNELLO The wine dominates, but the territory of Montalcino is also rich in products of excellence, such as salami, pecorino, extra virgin olive oil (there are a thousand hectares planted with olive gro-

GAMBERO ROSSO

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NOVEMBER 2018

20 17

20 16

20 15

20 14

20 13

20 12

20 11

20 10

9 20 0

8 20 0

20 07

6 20 0

5 20 0

4 20 0

20 03

20 02

20 01

20 0

0

252

ves), saffron, honey (of which Montalcino is the first producer in Italy), farro (70% of national production is born here), cereals and more. The peculiarity also lies in the fact that, unlike other places, most of the production, processing and packaging take place locally. After the fusion with the Municipality of San Giovanni d’Asso, the wine chain, first in importance, was added to a strong truffle business of 110 truffle forests of Tuber magnatum pico, the prized white truffle.

The Mayor Silvio Franceschelli has invested greatly in the birth of the Rural District and now for the School of Arts and Crafts related to the food industry (pork butchers, cheese makers, etc.). In addition to this, the brand of excellence Montalcino is in the finishing line: «Our top products are spread throughout the territory and need to be networked, but that too is not enough. Agriculture can only work if quality professionals are created that add value as in the case of wine: it’s the only way to combat depopulation and prevent 

STORIES

TRE BICCHIERI 2019 FROM VINI D’ITALIA BY GAMBERO ROSSO 

Red of the year 

Brunello di Montalcino Duelecci Ovest Ris. ‘12 Tenuta di Sesta tenutadisesta.it Even in a vintage that on paper was not really favorable for the type, the Brunello Riserva Duelecci Ovest holds the role of flag bearer for Tenuta di Sesta. The 2012 version opens on warm hues of liquor-preserved black cherry, tanning spices and mustard, with a toasted touch that’s more evident on the palate: caressing and tasty, it’s still contracted in the last portion for the severe tannic grain. But it has an extraordinary depth. It is our Red of the Year.

 Brunello di Montalcino ‘13 Le Macioche lemacioche.it Light fruit, almost unripe, floral and balsamic shades,

 Brunello di Montalcino Giodo ‘13 Podere Giodo Jovial impact of summer red

an underlying delicacy guides

it gains richness with the

the palate, alternating with

swirl, recruiting thermal and

the vertical nerve than the

silvester hues. taught and tasty,

extractive volume.

it finds additional support in

fruits and menthol incursions,

the silky tannin and it is only the light alcoholic whip to

 Brunello di Montalcino ‘13 Piancornello piancornello.it As it is often happens in the late harvests, sangiovese di

slow it down in the finish.

 Brunello di Montalcino ‘13 Caprili caprili.it The initial aromatic

 Brunello di Montalcino ‘13 Corte dei Venti lacortedeiventi.it Among the overall best in

of montalcino. qild cherry,

 Brunello di Montalcino Gualto Ris. ‘12 Camigliano camigliano.it Juniper berries, bay leaves,

cloves, truffle, the typical

macerated herbs for a

solar character is complete

declared mediterranean

with shades and contrasts,

imprint. confirmed by the

shyness quickly morphs in

a particularly fortunate

accelerating in a palate thick

vibrant and tasty palate, of

a lush sequence of berries,

harvest for the type: light

with taste and energy, which

elegant progression.

mediterranean herbs and

fruit, thermal essences, a

manages to steer the generous

marine suggestions; the best

touch of leather and cigar,

alcohol embrace and solid

is in the deliciously sweet and

the wine reveals all its

saline mouth, with velvety

class and complexity in the

tannins.

sip, suave as well as in the

piancornello offer the best interpretations in absolute

tannic armour.

extended saline aftertaste.

the distortion of the social balance of our territory». Echoing him is Hubert Ciacci, President of ASGA (Siena Grosseto Arezzo Beekeepers), back from an exceptional honey harvest (2030 kilos per hive): «In Montalcino we are a dozen professionals and we all believe in the Rural District, because it can be a great opportunity; as well as the mark of excellence of local products transformed on site, we can perform a quality».

Paolo Valdambrini, President of the Tartufai Senesi Association (270 members of which 110 of Montalcino), is also of the same opinion, fundamental for the difficult and expensive maintenance of the marginal territories necessary for the production of the precious fungus: «We want to be among the protagonists of the District to ensure, even in the future, the production and above all the maintenance of the beauty of this countryside». Among the products rediscovered after years of oblivion, is the red gold of Val d’Orcia: saffron, an ingredient of local Montalcino family recipes, is experiencing new

life. Marzio Saladini of Pura Crocus in Sant’Angelo Scalo, along with three friends supporting the District, wanted to resume the tradition of cultivation, currently one of the most important saffron cultivations in Italy. «Saffron represents for us - says Massimo, one of the members - also a way of thinking, preserving and passing on knowledge and customs. It’s not a historical and surpassed heritage: it’s an invaluable asset for the future and its frenetic transformation». Chimes in Giacomo Pondini, Director of the Brunello Wine Consortium: «The District is also the way to strengthen ties and bring everyone together. We rely on this strongly, as we support the idea that the Brunello di Montalcino Territorial Foundation can play a synergy and pivotal role in the entire production system of the region. Basically, it would complete the offer also on different fronts including artistic, architectural and museum heritage of our territory». Today the challenge is long-term projects, the Montalcino system and Brunello have accepted the challenge. 

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1500 – Birth of the village of Montalcino that dominates the Val d’Orcia 1533 – During the siege of the village, the chieftain Biagio di Monluc, who defended its walls, was refreshed with «robust red wine» 1676 – Bartolomeo Gherardini, seat of the Grand Duke on a visit to Montalcino, speaks of a production of «a vigorous wine, but not in large quantities»

1500

1600

VAL D’ORCIA AND BRUNELLO

 Brunello di Montalcino Ris. ‘12 Fattoi fattoi.it Country tones and luminous

 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova ‘13 Casanova di Neri casanovadineri.com The tenuta nuova ‘13 is a real

vigne

fruit anticipate an incredible

brunello of contemporary

savoury expansion; then comes

style, played on tones of dark

the tannic quality that makes

fruit yet also turgid, sweet

the difference.

spices and roots: it has the

 Brunello di Montalcino Vallocchio ‘13 Tenuta Fanti tenutafanti.it Brunello vallocchio ’13 is

round touch of the innovative and the classical tannic

 Brunello di Montalcino Ris. ‘12 Poggio di Sotto collemassari.it We’re bewitched by the riserva ‘12: wild strawberries, mint,

contrasts.

balsamic and spices, with velvety tannins.

all the way through.

showcases fresh red fruits, medicinal herbs, topsoil. it extends vigorously yet laid back in its precious tannic scaffolding.

powerfully vibrant thanks to

 Brunello di Montalcino V. V. ‘13 Le Ragnaie leragnaie.com Elegance and complexity are

the splendid sapid weave and

the main characteristics of

tannic end.

brunello ragnaie vecchie

1852 – Pharmacist Clemente Santi experiments a «pure red wine» which he presents at the Exposition of the natural and industrial products of Tuscany 1865 – Clemente Santi wins two gold medals with his «chosen red wine (Brunello) of 1865» at the Montepulciano Agricultural Fair

1902 – In the “Wine Guide of Tuscany” by Edoardo Ottavi and Arturo Merescalchi, only three producers of Brunello are mentioned: Ferruccio Biondi Santi, Raffaello and Carlo Padelletti

equipped with notable fruity

cacao and upturned soil. the

1800

high levels of the montalcinese district, but the

2016

version

will be remembered for long. watermelon, yellow peach, curry, burnt firewood, and the aromatic stratification of a great brunello: creamy, enveloping, supported until the last drop.

double and rigorous immediate soul translates in a gustatory progression that’s caressing and deep, of great class.

 Rosso di Montalcino ’16 Baricci baricci.it Impeccable range as usual of casa baricci, but the label destined to put all in agreement is once again the rosso, fantastic in the

2016

 Rosso di Montalcino ’16 Uccelliera Uccelliera-montalcino.it The rosso is once again able

to

take out the best style of casa uccelliera with a sumptuous version

2016.

myrtle, balsamic

notes and smoky tones, meaty and slender at the same time, spherical and taught, with a lot of juice and taste to extend the velvety tannic trail.

version for the mix of taste, strength and lightness.

1964 – The Autostrada del Sole highway is opened: traffic on the Cassia collapses.

Montalcino is still a town made of dirt roads. With the abolition of sharecropping, the rural crisis is exacerbated

1978 – The ItalianAmerican Mariani brothers create the first Montalcino wine giant: Banfi

1966 –The first Doc Brunello di Montalcino 1969 – One hectare of vineyard here costs less than 800,000 lire (15,000 euros today) 1980 – Enters the Docg

1850 – The wine that was most popular at the time was still a lightly sparkling amabile white, Moscadello di Montalcino

 Rosso di Montalcino ’16 Sesti - Castello di Argiano sestiwine.com It’s not the first time that the rosso by sesti is placed at the

multifaceted in its asian spices,

breath to extend the deep trail

 Brunello di Montalcino Ris. ‘11 Tenuta Le Potazzine lepotazzine.it The integral and multidimensional riserva ‘11 laden with black currant, licorice, mint and iodine; is

dense with aromatic

force and by the same token

 Brunello di Montalcino V. Loreto ‘13 Mastrojanni mastrojanni.com The vigna loreto ‘13

pink peppercorns and a light

’13,

chiaroscuro of flowers,

1950 – After WWII the fame of Brunello began to spread in Italy and in the world

2000 –The whirlwind of foreign acquisitions begins in Montalcino

1900

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2015 – One hectare of vineyard - if you can find it - won’t cost less than 500,000 euros. Carpineto buys The Forteto del Drago and the Veneti Tommasi Family Estates ensure Fattoria Casisano Colombaio

RECIPES

MANUEL BOUCHARD BORN IN

AGE

RESIDENT IN

Turin

30

San Secondo di Pinerolo (TO)

RESTAURANT NAME

OWNER

Antinè

PARTNER

RESTAURANT CONTACTS:

EMPLOYEE

via Torino, 16 – Barbaresco 0173635294 – antine.it

  

PRIOR EXPERIENCE

Villa Crespi – Piccolo Lago Trussardi alla Scala Relais Monforte Vicolo Santa Lucia

SEATS

22 NAME OF SOUS CHEF

NAME OF SOMMELIER

MOST LOVED INGREDIENT

Giorgio Bonaffini

Samuele Cominato

Squab

AGE OF SOUS CHEF

DINING ROOM STAFF:

MOST HATED INGREDIENT

23

Monica Moschetti (maître), Samuele Cominato, Paul Ligorio

None

KITCHEN BRIGADE:

Manuel Bouchard, Giorgio Bonaffini, Andrea Vallenzasca, Giovanni Lauretta, Mattia Cioè

THE DISH OF A LIFETIME

Raviolini del Plin WORSHIPPED GRAND MAESTRO

Enrico Crippa MOST RESPECTED PEER COLLEAGUE

Gabriele Boffa MY CUISINE HASHTAGS

Precise, rigorous, fun, technical, personal, thought out, tasty, light, local FAVORITE RESTAURANT ABROAD

Mugaritz in San Sebastian HAD I NOT BEEN A CHEF...

ONE WINE ABOVE ALL OTHERS

Artist/Illustrator

Barbaresco Asili Vecchie Viti di Roagna

LAST ALBUM DOWNLOADED

YOUR DISHES PRESENTED:

Strade di città

by Articolo 31

The Artichoke Aglio, olio, peperoncino and calamari Chicken Marengo Floral

LAST BOOK READ

The Fifth Day

by Frank Schätzing

ON THE NEXT ISSUE, RECIPES BY: CHRISTIAN MANDURA

by Paolo Cuccia - photos by Lido Vannucchi

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RECIPES

The Artichoke ingredients for 6 For the artichoke 6 spiny artichokes from Sardinia Ascorbic acid/lemon juice Tarragon oil Salt and white pepper For the tarragon oil 200 g French tarragon 300 g extra virgin olive oil made from taggiasche olives For the glaze 150 g artichoke stems Extra virgin olive oil Xanthan gum For the licorice bearnaise 50 g Champagne vinegar 50 g Roero Arneis 1 shallot 15 g blonde onions 5 g lemon juice 250 g ghee 50 g fresh egg yolks 25 g pure licorice paste salt and black pepper For the wafer 200 g artichoke stems 15 g isomalt salt and black pepper Garnish Licorice powder Cacao grue (beans)

For the artichokes: clean and trim the artichokes, remove the stems and keep aside. Using a paring knife remove choke and soak in acidulated water (water and lemon) for a few minutes. Drain and pat dry.

Place in a sous vide bag and add tarragon oil, salt and white pepper.Steam or cook in water at 85° for 50 minutes. Cool and refrigerate ùFor the tarragon oil: clean and trim the fresh tarragon, manitaining the leaves only. Planche in salted water for a few seconds then shock in iced water.

Drain and pat dry, and add to the olive oil; mix in the Bimby robot and filter in a superbag. Store in the fridge.

For the artichoke glaze: clean and trim the artichoke stems, chop in regular segments and cook in lightly salted water. Let cool. Extract the juice emulsify with olive oil and xanthan gum.

For the licorice bearnaise: brunoise the shallot and onion; add to wine and vinegar and reduce over milf heat then filter.

Squeeze the lemon and filter the juice. Heat the ghee. In a saucepan add the egg yolk To the reduction and beta until textured over moderate heat. Remove from the stove and add the butter while still whisking.

Lastly, add the licorce paste, the lemon juice and adjust seasoning. Put it all in the siphon with 2 cartridges.

For the artichoke wafer: clean and trim the artichoke stems, chop in regular segments, place in sous vide and bake in a steam oven at 85° (or in water) until cooked. Blend and filter to obtain 150 g of pulp, add isomalt and blend all together again and adjust seasoning. Filter and smear thinly on silpat. Dry in the oven at 45° for 4/5 hours. Cut the decoration and before serving, heat the wafers in the oven at 170° for 3 minutes and shape while still hot.

For the plate: Preheat oven at 180°. Glaze the artichoke and bake in the oven for 1 minute, glaze again and cook for an additional minute: repeat this another 2 times. Season with Halen Mon del Galles smoked salt. Squeeze one dose of bearnaise and garnish with a dusting of licorice powder, cacao grue and smoked salt. Place the glazed artichoke and top with the wafer. Serve immediately.

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RECIPES

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Aglio, olio, peperoncino and calamari For the parsley coulis 200 g fresh parsley ice extra virgin olive oil vegetable broth salt xanthan gum

ingredients for 6 For the fresh pasta dough 625 g double ground durum when flour 125 g “00” flour 520 g egg yolks, pasteurised For the filling 3 heads of Caraglio garlic 250 g whole milk 250 g heavy cream (35% butterfat) salt and white pepper

For the peperoncino oil 250 g extra virgin olive oil 25 g triple tomato concentrate 10 g fresh chilli peppers 5 g dry chili peppers

For the vegetable broth 1 l water 2 medium carrots 1 green rib of celery 1 blonde onion

For the parsley powder 200 g parsley 5 g tapioca maltodextrin For the garnish 36 chilli pepper threads 6 watercress leaves 6 lovage leaves 6 chevril leaves 6 nasturtium leaves 6 red sorrel leaves 6 borage flowers 6 violets 6 garlic flowers

For the calamari 6 calamari, each weighing approx. 80-100 g

For the pasta: Mix the flours and the yolks; close sous vide and let it proof in the fridge for 1 hour.

For the filling: Soak the cloves in water for a few minutes, peel and remove the green shoot at the core. Blanche for 3 times in lightly salted water, changing the water and cooling them each time. Add the cloves to the heavy cream and milk and cook in the termomix for 50 minutes at 90°. Puree the mixture and adjust seasoning. Place in halfdome moulds and blast-freeze. Once frozen use these buttons as filling for round ravioli. Store the ravioli in the freezer.

For the vegetable broth: Heat water in a large pot. In a saucepan, sweat the onion cut in half, then add ita long with the other vegetables in the pot of water. Let it simmer gently for 1 hour, then filter.

For the parsley coulis: wash the parsley and remove the larger, woodier stems. Blanche quickly in boiling water and shock rapidly in iced water.

Puree adding a few ice cubes and vegetable broth. Emulsify with extra virgin olive oil and adjust seasoning with salt. Adjust texture with xanthan gum. Filter and store in the fridge.

For the peperoncino oil: weigh the ingredients and put them in sous vide. Cook the mixture at 65º for 1 hour. Blend and filter.

For the calamari: clean and peel the calamari, removing the wings and the head, Eviscerate and butterfly them lengthwise. Scrape the inside and score them forming a checkered pattern.

For the parsley powder: clean and rinse the parsley, blanche quickly in boiling salted water and shock with iced water. Pat dry and chop finely. Dry in a 50º oven for 12 hours.

Blend everything with maltodextrin and sift.

For the garnish: rinse and carefully pat dry the herbs and flowers, then store in the fridge in damp paper towels.

For the plate: bring a large pot of salted water to a boil adding a drop of extra virgin olive oil.

Cook the stuffed pasta buttons for a few seconds. In a pan, sear the calamari that will curl. Cut them to the desired size, and season to taste. Plate positioning randomly the parsley powder and dripping the coulis evenly on the plate. Place the pasta buttons near the coulis and the calamari nera the buttons. Season with drops of peperoncino oil. Position the peperoncino strands on each pasta button and garnish with herbs and flowers. Serve immediately.

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RECIPES

Chicken Marengo INGREDIENTS FOR 6 For the chicken 2 free range broilers extra virgin olive oil salt and black pepper For the chicken jus 8 kg of chicken carcasses 1 kg chicken wings 10 medium blonde onions 1 kg shallot 1 l Madeira wine 500 g button mushrooms 20 g triple tomato concentrate 100 g apple cider vinegar remoiage water and ice sage, laurel, rosemary, thyme For the tomato sauce 1 kg datterini tomatoes salt and white pepper extra virgin olive oil basil, thyme, garlic icing sugar

for the puffed pasta wafer 200 g dry pasta water, salt, smoked paprika

For the chicken: clean and debone the bird, removing breasts, drumsticks and thighs. Season with salt, pepper and olive oil and put pieces in sous vide separately. Cook at low temperature at 62º as follows: 3 hours fro the breasts; 24 hours for the thighs and drumsticks. Let cool.

For the chicken jus: cut the carcasses and the wings down to regular size and toast in the oven at 210º C. Cut onions, mushrooms and shallots in mirepoix, toasting in the pan with some olive oil. Add the roasted carcasses to the onion stock and deglaze the oven pans with Madeira wine and apple cider vinegar, then add that to the pot as well. Let it evaporate slightly, add the tomato paste and cover with water and ice.

Simmer for about 6 hours and repeat the operation with water and ice and again reduce for another 6 hours. Filter and add the remoiage (which is obtained by boiling the discarded carcasses in a little water after the filtration of the obtained jus), reduce by 1/3 again and then let it rest in the fridge for 12 hours. Then skim off the fat, add the aromatic herbs and reduce to a thicker consistency, binding with some butter.

For the fried yolk 6 egg yolks panko smoked salt For the pioppini mushrooms 200 g fresh pioppini mushrooms butter, salt, pepper, thyme, garlic For the crayfish 12 live crayfish Lemon-scented oil Salt and white pepper

For the tomato sauce: rinse and score the datterini tomatoes, blanching and shocking them immediately in iced water.

Once cool, peel and season with olive oil, salt and pepper, garlic and aromatic herbs, leaving them to steep for 2 hours.

Drain well and place on a sheet pan, dusted with icing sugar.

Obtain confit by baking them in a 60º C oven for 6-7 hours.

Purée, adjust seasoning and pass through a chinois to obtain a thick, dense paste.

For the puffed pasta wafer: overcook the pasta in unsalted water. Drain and blend with a pinch of salt. Put through a chinoi and spread the obtained paste on a sheet pan.: dry in a 45-50º oven for approximately 6-8 hours. Cut to the desired size and “puff” by frying in 210º C olive oil. Season the wafers with salt and smoked paprika.

For the fried yolk: separate the yolk from the egg white and cover in panko. Leti s rest like this for at least 30 minutes.

When ready to serve, fry it quickly in oil at 175º C and adjust seasoning.

For the pioppini: carefully clean and trim the mushrooms maintaining them in small clusters.

When ready to serve, brown them lightly in butter and herbs.

For the crayfish: de-vein the shrimp and remove the carapace.

When ready to serve, steam them quickly and season with lemon-scented olive oil (blending olive oil made from Taggiasca olives and lemon juice and letting everything steep for one week and the filtering), salt and white pepper.

For the plate: place a few flecks of tomato sauce on the sides of the plate, place the browned chicken skin side up in the center, alongside place the pioppini mushrooms and the fried egg yolk. Arrange the crayfish and the pasta wafer at the center of the tomato sauce. Garnish with aromatic herbs and finish the dish at the table pouring the jus next to the chicken.

Per the garnish 6 pimpinella leaves 12 nasturtium leaves 12 yarrow millefeuille leaves 6 white mustard leaves 6 streaked sorrel leaves 6 club sorrel leaves 6 sprigs of olive grass 6 rametti di erba oliva

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RECIPES

THE PHOTOGRAPHER’S GAZE Today the Langhe are no longer just one of the world capitals of wine, but thanks to Manuel Bouchard, they are a new destination for fine dining. As a cook of rare elegance, he interprets traditional cuisine that he dominates with skill and passion, combining creativity that contaminates the flavors of the area with original and never exuberant exotic suggestions. I enjoy very muche photographing his dished, his aesthetic sensibility. – Lido Vannucchi

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Floreale INGREDIENTS FOR 6 For the violet gelato 425 g whole milk 30 g powdered milk 45 g inverted sugar 24 g glucose 125 g heavy cream (35% buttermilk) 40 g sugar 3 g stabilizer 90 g pure violet paste For the rose meringue 150 g water 25 g dry rose flowers 18 g powdered albumin 300 g sugar 0,7 g red food coloring For the chamomile mousse 130 g heavy cream (35% buttermilk) 80 g egg whites 6 g gelatin 100 g water 15 g dry chamomile flowers 70 g sugar

For the lavender gel 125 g water 30 g sugar 4 g dried lavender flowers 0,8 g agar agar 0,5 g xanthan gum

For the violet gelato: add the sugar to the stabilizer, mix milk and powdered milk in a large saucepan, when the temperature reaches 30º C add the glucose and inverted sugar. When at 40º C add the heavy cream; at 45º C add the sugar and stabilizer. Bring to 85º C for 5 seconds and let cool. Let the gelato mature in the fridge for 12 hours.

Heat the mix and add the violet paste mix until homogenized and blast-freeze.

For the rosemary crumble 200 g butter 200 g sugar 100 g egg yolks 280 g “00” flour 16 g yeast 3 g salt Halen Mon 15 g fresh rosemary

For the rose meringue: bring the water to a boil, add the roses and leave them infused until cooled. Filter and bring back to initial weight. Blend the infusion with food coloring, 100 g of sugar and albumin. Work the compound in a stand mixer and add the remaining 200 g of sugar a little at a time until completely assembled. Form meringues and bake in a static oven at 100º C for about 2 hours.

For the chamomile mousse: bring the water to a boil, add the flowers and leave them infused until cool. Filter and obtain 75 grams of infusion. Soak the gelatin, whip the cream and - separately - the egg whites. Heat part of the infusion to dissolve the gelatin, then add it to the remaining one. Combine the cream infusion and finally incorporate the egg whites whipped with sugar. Stir until the mixture is homogeneous, pour into moulds and blast-freeze.

Unmold and store in the fridge.

For the garnish 18 violets 18 pansies 18 carnation petals 18 marigold petals 12 bluebells 12 begonias 6 sprigs of fresh chamomile

For the hibiscus wafer: bring the water to a boil, add the flowers and leave them infused until cooled; bring to the initial weight and add the blueberry pulp, combine the pectin and 20 g of sugar. Add the remaining sugars and pectin to the mixture and bring to a boil for 3 minutes.

Spread on a silpat and allow to dry at 55º C for 6-8 hours.

Unmold and cut to the desired size.

For the hybiscus wafer 200 g water 200 g blueberry pulp 50 g dried hybiscus flowers 70 g sugar 25 g isomalt 9 g pectin NH (universal)

For the lavender gel: bring water and sugar to a boil, add the flowers and leave them to cool. Filter, combine agar and xanthan gum, bring to 95º C stirring constantly. Allow to cool in the fridge, then blend, filter and vacuum in sous vide to remove air.

For the rosemary crumble: clean and wash the rosemary needles carefully, add the sugar and blend. Sift flour and baking powder and add salt. Work the egg yolks and sugar in a stand mixer with the leaf hook, add soft butter and continue to work. Combine the flour until homogenization and let the mixture rest in the fridge for at least 4 hours.

Roll the dough with a rolling pin to a thickness of about 3 mm and bake at 165º C (0% humidity) until browned.

Crumble or chop with a knife.

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GAMBERO ROSSO X CHIANTI

Chianti on Tour: Warsaw and Hamburg with Gambero Rosso If Chianti is the name of the most famous Italian wine in the world, how many can say they’re familiar with its territory and sub-areas? A few, for sure. This is why Consorzio del Chianti and Gambero Rosso have joined forces to carry out a series of tasting events around the world. The first result of this collaboration took place in Warsaw on November 14th in the famous restaurant Maka i Woda (water and flour), one of the Italian restaurants awarded by Top Italian Restaurants, the guide that Gambero Rosso dedicates to the best places that express the Italian food culture around the world. Marco Sabellico and Luca Alves Franco, of Consorzio del Chianti, led an audience of enthusiasts and wine operators in a fascinating journey through the territories of Chianti, from Rufina to Colli Senesi, from the Colline Pisane to Montalbano, talking about territory, climate, characteristics of the soils and winemaking styles to a very attentive audience, who followed them in an exciting tasting of seven vintage wines

of 2016 and seven Riserva of 2015, which each expressed their denomination. «It was a unique experience - said Andzej Rózycki, owner of Sarwine, an climate-controlled cellar at the service of collectors (he collects and is storing in perfect condition over 60,000 bottles at the moment) - I myself am a collector of Chianti Classico (about 4,000 bottles over 30 years) - and I did not imagine the exponential growth of Chianti in recent years». «My next trip to Italy will be dedicated to the territories of Chianti - added Hubert Borucki, journalist of Polskagola - this deeper knowledge has opened up new horizons». The day ended with tastings of Italian products and excellent pizzas from the Maka i Woda wood-fired oven, which on this occasion received the Due Spicchi recognition reserved to the best pizzerias by Top Italian Restaurants. «It’s been a beautiful day - tells us one of the two owners, Adam Vigh - for years we travelled far and wide in Italy selecting the best ingredients, flour, mozzarella di bufala, cured meats and the best EVO oils of small producers, which we collect and ship directly to Poland.

My partner Pawel Fabis and I are in love with Italy, and we wanted to offer a place with authentic products to the people of Warsaw. Thanks to Gambero Rosso for recognizing our commitment. And kudos to the producers of Chianti: these are excellent wines that will broaden our offer”. In closing the event, an abundant free tasting with over 45 different Chianti wines. A truly great night.

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On November 16th, we replicated in Hamburg, at the Poletto Wine Bar –– a beautiful venue with a thousand labels of great Italian wines and more. The protagonists were equally two, the Italians Remigio Poletto and Luigi Francia, who opened their beautiful restaurant in the elegant and fashionable Eppendorf district a few years ago, taking advantage of their long experience as restaurateurs matured around the world. Two more Chianti series in tasting, vintage and Riserva. With many questions from participants in the event on soils, climate, and winemaking methods.

A 360° conversation on clones, winemaking techniques, the role of oak in maturation... There was no aspect of the technique and geology that was overlooked, from the role of galestro, of the alberese and of macigno, the three most characteristic soils of Chianti, in the presence of white grapes - when used - in the blend. «It turned out to be a successful event... everyone proved to be very interested. We need to educate in order to make the product known and distribute it successfully» noted Giulia Bernini, sales manager at Bindi Sergardi in Monteriggioni, who attended the event. «It’s wonderful to see this interest in Chianti - Remigio Poletto told us - I must say that we too were conquered by the richness of nuances of the different terroirs. We’ll extend our wine list!» On this occasion, the owners of the Poletto Wine Bar were awarded the Due Bottiglie recognition

by Top Italian Restaurants. «An incentive to do more, as well as a recognition!» Luigi Francia confessed. The evening ended with a crowded free tasting of 47 different Chianti wines, with the same formula used in Warsaw.

DENOMINATION UNDER THE MAGNIFYING LENS: WE SPOKE TO LUCA ALVES, EVENTS AND FOREIGN PRESS MANAGER Let’s start from denomination in figures.

We are talking about approximately 15,500 hectares for an average annual production of about 80 million hectoliters, therefore 110 million bottles. With the harvest in 2017, the drop registered was 40%, but with 2018 we’re back in the game.

The 3 strengths of the denomination?

Diversity, or rather a territory suited to Sangiovese with its subzones (the zonation is 1932, ed), soils and declensions. Then there’s the variety in terms of versatility on the table, from aperitif to appetizers, to the more substantial dishes with the superiore and the riservas: Chianti is an extremely drinkable, modern wine with freshness and snappy acidity. As a third factor, the value for money, which is among the best ever.

Which markets responded the best?

70% of production is for export. The traditional markets are in North America, our market par excellence, but also Germany, and in Japan for Asia. Among the new markets, primarily China, where we have the Chianti Academy, and Southeast Asia; among the newest, Central America and South America with ad hoc initiatives, seminars and lessons.

What are the average prices of the denomination?

Prices are ex-cellar. For a vintage Chianti prices range from 3 to 5 euros. Already at 4 euros the product is more than decent. On the superiore, we add an euro on average, on the riserva the gap is between 6 and 12 euros.

Why are prices not raised?

For a productive and promotional approach in recent decades.

Chianti has performed a production renewal as well as of its image, coming in contact with a younger public: Chianti was known above all to a higher demographic (50 and 60 years olds). Before we focused on quantity, on the shelf price, today the challenge is to share our incredible diversity, the priority is quality at a popular price. Because Chianti is a reliable wine, a popular wine.

 Consorzio Vini Chianti

Viale Belfiore, 9 - 50144 Firenze consorziovinochianti.it

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GAMBERO ROSSO X LUGANA

Lugana: from Lake Garda to the world

The wine-growing zone on the southern coast of Lake Garda has long attracted world attention for the quality and flavor of its white wine. The five municipalities where Lugana is produced are Desenzano, Lonato, Peschiera del Garda, Pozzolengo and Sirmione. The winemaking history of this zone stretches back to the ancient Romans.

By the eighteenth century, documents exist referring to the elegant lakeside white. The grape variety then was called turbiana. If interpreted with moderate yields by a sensitive winemaker, it can be a flavorful and fragrant white, with vigorous aromas including almond and citrus fruit. It is a noble, ancient variety, able to produce a white rich in subtleties and personality. Today, turbiana grows largely on flat terrain, on superior soil distinguished by a clayey nature of moraine origin, sedimentary, prevalently calcareous, rich in mineral salts. This clay, which in the hillier swaths of the DOC becomes sandier and sandier, is the vault for the sensory patrimony of Lugana: body and warmth, acidity and sapidity in the structural framework of the wine, joined to a fragrant range of aromas.

The zone enjoys a microclimate: breezes and lake waters contribute to softening the climate and mitigating the temperature excursions between night and day – a kind of cradle that brings out the characteristics of turbiana.

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CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REG. UE N. 1308/2013 CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EU REGULATION NO. 1308/2013

THE USA After conquering Italy and Europe, Lugana is firmly focusing on markets outside the continent. This autumn has been a swirling succession of events that has seen the Lake Garda white successfully make its way onto international markets.

New York has been for some time one of the markets which the Consortium is most projected towards, but the American tour this year was enriched with other stops between East and West Coast (Chicago, Washington, Buffalo). In the USA native grape varieties make the difference and Lugana is a name that has conquered an important space, which – among other things – is in constant growth. It’s estimated that in 2018, 6% of exports will turn to the United States with a solid and consolidated reputation. Merit also goes to the wineblogger buzz as the Consortium’s influencers of reference, who met from 4 to 7 October in Walla-Walla, where the Wine Bloggers Conference was held, the sector’s most important annual event. “We were among the first Consortia to believe in the relationship with these new opinion leaders with whom we have been collaborating for five years – said Luca Formentini, President of the Consortium – The Conference is a precious opportunity for us to compare with immediate feedback on the product, but at the same time it’s a very useful training appointment on today constitute the new trends for the promotion and consolidation of our reputation”. An increasingly solid success that also passes through respect for the environment: “The Lugana Doc is a common asset and for this we have launched the project “Lugana for the Environment and the Environment for Lugana”: there is no quality wine without a quality territory – concluded Formentini – We are promoters of a sustainable viticulture, capable of balancing productive aspects with safeguarding the environment. This commitment repays also from a promotional point of view, especially in the USA, because it allows to attribute to the product further credibility especially among Millennials”.

JAPAN The Asian market, Japanese in particular, is proving itslef increasingly interesting for the wine sector. In Japan, wine culture is quite recent but already consolidated and in the next five years a 5% annual increase is expected for the turnover in the wine business sector. The situation is therefore exciting and the Consortium has decided to make its debut in the Land of the Rising Sun by accepting this new challenge. The denomination was presented to the Japanese public last October 29th in Tokyo, at the Academie du Vin, during a masterclass held by the famous wine educator Irving So - “Lugana is an extraordinary wine: the charm of a territory that is clearly reflected in the wine.” On the next day, during the Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri Event in Tokyo, at the Ritz Carlton, the tasting table of Lugana Doc was also very popular, and under the aegis of the Consortium it offered a tasting of the wines of 21 wineries of the denomination. “We have high expectations on the Japanese market – explained President Formentini – The Japanese have all the characteristics to be our ideal consumers: curious, educated, attentive to detail, aware, a mature audience, and the Lugana, in its various versions, pairs perfectly with many of the dishes of the Japanese gastronomic tradition, whose delicacy and varied range of taste find ample resonance with its orgnoleptic baggage”.

 Consorzio Tutela Lugana

Caserma Artiglieria di Porta Verona - 37019 Peschiera d/G (VR) + 39 045-9233070 - www.consorziolugana.it

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GAMBERO ROSSO X PAOLO LEO

Paolo Leo, entrepreneur at the service of Wine and Salento

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1

Paolo Leo was born in 1960 from a family that produces wine since the early twentieth century. For him collecting the heritage of his grandfather Paolo and his father Nicola was a natural step, and today he is managing the company with the help of his wife Roberta and his sons Nicola and Stefano who open ground to younger brothers Francesco and Alessandro. The place is San Donaci, in Salento, a place so popular today for its crystal clear waters and pris-

tine beaches, but where wine also plays a starring role. “The winery was founded in 2010 when the family discussed whether to invest in land or not. Part of the vineyards were inherited but absolutely insufficient to the needs of the company and especially to future projects - says Paolo, continuing - today the company can count on about 50 hectares and on an ancient masseria structure surrounded by vineyards of Salice Salentino Doc. Those who

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come visit the winery and the farm, come to visit the vineyards of Salento, planted in strongly mineral soil, reddish in color, permeable to water, on which you can clearly read the history and life of the vineyard that are then found in the glass when you taste the aromas and savour of wine”.

Paolo Leo did not stop at inheriting his father’s property along with his innate passion for wine and work, but in a few years he created an unmistakable brand: “the progress of the family winery has been hand in hand with the redemption of Pugliese wine, when finally the path that led it to rise to high quality wine rather than simple mix product was undertaken”. Primitivo, negroamaro, white and black malvasia of Lecce: these are the main native grape varieties cultivated, accompanied by chardonnay and fiano di Puglia: vineyards that give life to an annual production of over three million bottles (70% of which

GAMBERO ROSSO X PAOLO LEO

CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REG. UE N. 1308/2013

1 Working in the vineyards 2. Paolo Leo 3. The Winery

CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EU REGULATION NO. 1308/2013

3

sold abroad), which will probably increase in the coming years: “we have recently discovered a historic social winery in the denomination of Primitivo di Manduria and we plan to purchase land in that area to increase our production”.

Pugliese wine is experiencing a true Renaissance. “The wine supply chain has a high potential for development and high added value index, it’s a strong sector.

Puglia companies are increasingly confronted on issues related to innovation and change, they meet to discuss development opportunities in a scenario of long and difficult economic crisis, in which, however, the excellence of the territory has shown commitment, reconverting and renewing the production processes to face the global market. Innovation has to

be the leitmotif of their commitment. I and my fellow entrepreneurs have shown that in Puglia there’s the possibility to produce quality wines, internationally recognized, which could show elegance and finesse while maintaining the original character. We were able to bring value to the often extreme characteristics of this rich and complex land that is Salento”.

New projects? “We are thinking of investing in hospitality: in 2012 we bought a very old farmhouse with adjoining land where a vineyard was already planted for the production of our Doc Salice Salentino. A beautiful recovery project is already in place to turn it into a luxury resort that will welcome our customers but also those who want to spend a pleasant weekend among the vineyards”.

 Cantine Paolo Leo

Via Tuturano, 21 - 72025 San Donaci (BR) +39 0831 635073 - www.paololeo.it

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ORFEO NEGROAMARO ‘16 “Orfeo is one of our most important wines, a product that has grown, along with the company, in popularity and value.

Many things have changed during the years of our mutual growth but what has remained unchanged is the care with which we tend to our vineyards, the attention we use in the cellar to produce wines that express the territory’s identity and beauty”. Negroamaro in purity, with intense aromas of plum, spices and ink follows a palate full of black fruits, of good dynamism, thick and long.

MINIGUIDE

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Largo LucaLuca Ganzi Largo Ganzi Aeroporto Aeroporto

E35 Via San Via San Leonardo Leonardo

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Via Piacenza Via Piacenza

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Fognano Fognano Viale Viale Europa Europa

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Via Trento Via Trento

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Viale Viale Mentana Mentana Parco Ducale Parco Ducale

Via Emilia Via Emilia Ovest Ovest

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PARMA PARMA Via Emilia Via Emilia Est Est

Via Fleming Via Fleming Viale Viale dei Mille dei Mille

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Piazzale Piazzale Santa Santa Croce Croce

I San San Lazzaro Lazzaro

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11 11 Tangenziale Tangenziale SudSud

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Piazza Piazza Guido Guido Picelli Picelli

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28 28 Roncole Roncole Verdi Verdi

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31 31 12 12 32 32 Fontanellato Fontanellato Fidenza Fidenza Langhirano Langhirano

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Collecchio Collecchio Monticelli Monticelli Terme Terme

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Busseto Busseto

Via Digione Via Digione

Viale Viale Vittoria Vittoria

S S Fornovo Fornovo di Taro di Taro

T T 35 35 M M

E E Traversetolo Traversetolo Via Volturno Via Volturno

Celestano Celestano

We are in the homeland of the most famous Italian prosciutto in the world, from this city comes the name of Parmigiano Reggiano, at a stone's throw are the lands if Verdi which is the kingdom of exceptional salami. Here the local cuisine has a long and delicious tradition. But there is not only the past, that is however glorious. Now even younger formats, creative kitchens and the desire to explore modernity are being affirmed

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PARMA, IN THE CAPITAL OF THE FOOD VALLEY

Stazione

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Via Verona

Viale Europa

Via Cuneo

Strada delle Fonderie

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Piazzale Salvador Allende

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Palazzo della Pilotta

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San Giacomo

Piazzale San Benedetto Piazza della Pace

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ele Bertozzi

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Giuseppe

Torrente Parma

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Via Toscana Cattedrale

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Via Nazario Sauro

Palazzo Soragna Tarasconi

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Viale Liguria

Via Dalmazia

Strada XXII Luglio Viale S. Michele

Borgo San Silvestro

Via Paganini

Borgo Regale Via Emilia Est Borgo Felino Casino Petitot

Via Amato

PARMA. in the capitAl of the food valley a cura di Valentina Marino

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MINIGUIDE

Roots and creativity in the city of food

1 Ceci dello Starhotels Du Parc v.le Piacenza, 12 0521292929 ristorantececi.it Elegant, but not pedantic, classicism The Ceci family (which managed Villa Maria Luigia in Collecchio) manages an elegant and well-kept place whose offer is a mix between the territory and international that does not disappoint.

2 Cocchi v.le A. Gramsci, 16a 0521981990 ristorantecocchi.it A solid family affair This is one of the most popular tables in the city, a true classic. Thanks to a welcoming environment and a solid and caring family management.

But above all a typical cuisine made according to the rules, with hand-rolled pastas and space for seasonal products.

3 Trattoria Corrieri

MY PARMA

fraz. Coloreto Budellungo, 104a 0521645626 The Parma countryside in a nutshell A solid landing in the countryside around Parma. Here one sits at a "real" Parmigiana table, where the cuisine is typical even with some good reinterpretation, simple and told with passion by the owners, who minutely describe the ingredients.

THE REASON WHY PRECISELY HERE, EXPERIENCE MAKES SENSE...

The Parmigiani love their city but more than that they love their gastronomic traditions and while curious about novelties (for which they are perhaps willing to travel miles to) they maintain a more reluctant attitude if these innovations are overlooking the city landscape, almost as if the territory and its ingredients were inviolable. The opening of Inkiostro was a difficult challenge: to bring innovation and gastronomic avant-garde in a territory in love with its traditions to the point of not allowing fusion of any sort. Our desire was to give an incredible city like Parma the opportunity to complete a culinary outfit that went further. It was therefore inevitable that this process would take time. On the one hand, the city found a different looking place, also on an architectural level: modern and minimal, where inside you could be anywhere in the way because of the taste and international design. On the other, with the arrival of chef Terry Giacomello, Parma has had to deal with avant-garde cuisine and with contaminations from the 5 continents. The pride of Parma products, such as Prosciutto Crudo or Parmigiano Reggiano become real ingredients and not as dishes in and of themselves.

Hence the development of preparations such as Parma ham bone marrow mousse to combine with grape gelato, or Parmigiano Reggiano that becomes serum to simulate Japanese swallow nests.

"Presenting unique things, and creating to avoid boredom": This is the motto of Terry Giacomello, offering gastronomic journeys of excellence without ever taking anything for granted. This is why you should sit at the tables at Inkiostro.

– Francesca Poli, owner of Inkiostro

5 Inkiostro via San Leonardo, 124 0521776047 ristoranteinkiostro.it Shaking tradition The local Poli family (Francesca at the helm of the dining room) shakes the traditionalism of one of the most emblematic capitals of fine Italian dining. And relies on the cuisine of Terry Giacomello, a talented chef who has worked extensively with Ferran Adrià and at Mugaritz, the top of the Iberian avant-garde. The decor is equally futuristic. But in the kitchen there are the pillars of the territory: Parmesan and salami in primis (even if in original interpretations).

b.go P. Cocconi, 3e 3311881522 Ancient osteria In the popular university center of Parma, this is the prototype of the new generation osterias, informal and convivial taverns where patrons can drink a glass of wine on worn wooden tables, pushed up against one another.

Michel Torrisi, the host, recites the offer, or one can choose from the chalkboard menu.

Natural wines and craft beers, charcuterie platters, toasts and salami of pork and/or fish.

6 Officina Alimentare Dedicata

s.da Conservatorio, 1 0521234426 trattoriacorrieri.it Genuine flavours Strictly Parma cuisine with all its peculiarities and its true and pure flavors: from ciccioli to fried polenta taragna, from ragout of strolghino to horseground pesto…

via F. Maestri, 11° 0521230505 - officina alimentarededicata.it At heart of the nightlife In the heart of the city nightlife, here is a restaurant set up by three girls with a passion for the ancient flavors of Emilia.

The young, versatile and variable menu is inspired by the traditions of regional cuisine and selected ingredients.

4 Ai Due Platani

7 Osteria Oltrevino

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8 Operaviva s.da G. Inzani, 15 0521206001 ristoranteoperaviva.it Contemporary cuisine

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A modern restaurant in which the hosts (Elena and Emilio Restori and chef Lazzaro Fattoruso) focus on contemporary preparations, seafood dishes, international inspirations, with high quality, seasonal and local ingredients, paying great attention to the ethics of producers, all aesthetics and nutritional components.

9 Parizzi s.da Repubblica, 71 0521285952 ristoranteparizzi.it Fun and top-notch cuisine Here Marco Parizzi has caught the wind of change into a local landmark in the city: he interprets and lightens dishes of territorial inspiration, but also often plays on raw fish and vegetables,

MINIGUIDE

with creative instinct and classical technique. A thousand labels on the wine list.

10 Tra l'uss e l'asa b.go san Biagio 6/c 0521284699 tralusselasa.it Quality fast food The food is traditional, the place is instead new generation. The heart of the offer, here, are sandwiches and the formula is quick: numbered queue to eat standing up, but the flavors are more than deserving (excellent meatballs and the inevitable cotechino).

Possibility of take-out.

11 I Tri Siochett loc. Vigheffio s.da Farnese, 74 0521968870 itrisiochett.it From tobacconist to trattoria It was a bar-tabacchi-deli, today a restaurant seating hundreds that manages to keep the quality and tradition intact despite size.

Excellent cold cuts with the inevitable fried gnocco fritto and then fresh pastas, stew of donkey or cooked shoulder of San Secondo; desserts include Italian style trifle and zabaione.

12 Le Viole loc. Castelnuovo Golese - s.da Nuova di Castelnovo, 60a 0521601000 trattoria levioleparma.com Short supply chain and imagination Seasonal market menu in a restaurant where short supply chain rules, between tradition and fantasy. Comfortable environment and service with a smile of the two Friulian sisters.

10 must visit shops A

Rural Market

b.go Giacomo Tommasini, 7 0521237485 – rural.it The place where you can find all the artisan products derived from Parma's biodiversity (but also Tuscan and Ligurian): from cheeses to salami, from fresh donkey milk to eggs of Romagnola hen‌ Banchini Cioccolaterie B e gelateria

p.zza Cesare Battisti 9b 3332814965 cioccolatobanchini.com Family of chocolatiers from the end of the 19th century.

Thanks to the rediscovery of a manuscript recipe book, Giacomo and Alberto Banchini have restarted the company of great-grandfather Enrico.

C

Salumeria Garibaldi

s.da Garibaldi, 42 0521235606 salumeriagaribaldi.com From Prosciutto di Parma Dop to culatello di Zibello, from salami from Felino to Parmigiano Reggiano, from porcini of Borgotaro to balsamic vinegar: to buy or for a gourmet snack.

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I Due Gatti

s.da N. Bixio, 76 0521238901 iduegatti.it Pizzas and focaccias sold by weight for take-out. Here Aldo and Massimo Gatti give life to pizzas baked in pans, cooked and leavened for a long time, the result of experience and knowledge with quality chefs and producers.

Rosa dell’Angelo E Prosciutto Bar

Centro Commerciale Eurotorri p.le Balestrieri, 19a 0521798076 rosaangelo.it

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Tasting room and sale of cured meats and cheeses of the salami factory of Traversetolo (another location is at the Fiera di Parma, as well as at the company headquarters in Traversetolo). Exceptional black pork breed hams, good selection of other cured meats. On sale also legendary Berkel slicers.

F

Panetteria Gradellini

s.da Luigi Carlo Farini, 58 0521234457 @PanetteriaGradellini Bakery and fresh pasta, one of the temples of the classic local tortelli with greens and traditional bread baking art.

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Enoteca Cavalli

via G. Verdi, 25a 053123693928 enotecacavalli.com Historic city wine shop with a huge selection of labels that include references from the region, as well as local (and not so local) food specialties. It's also possible to enjoy aperitivo on site.

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La Prosciutteria di Silvano Romani

s.da Farini, 9c 0521234188 silvanoromaniparma.it This is the flagship store of the network of grocers and foodstuffs built by Silvano Romani in the city (and beyond) also aquiring historical shops.

I

Pasticceria Battistini

via Montebello 84b 0521487752 pasticceriabattistini.it This place owes its popularity to the classic Torta Duchessa cake in a now personalized version. Equallt excellent are the macaron, gelato (also for take-out) and chocolate products made by Alessandro Battistini in collaboration with Besuschi, Tonti and Laghi.

L

La Bottega del Gusto

via S.Leonardo 145c 0521786918 fratellidavoliparma.com The Davoli brothers own a historic shop, opened in 1953, that offers a selection of the best local products, from Prosciutto crudo to Parmigiano, from wines to extra-virgin olive oil.

PARMA, IN THE CAPITAL OF THE FOOD VALLEY

The other Parma… day and night

13 Alfione & Bruno v.le Piacenza, 7 0521773677 alfione.it Bottega 3.0 well defines the soul of this ancient deli founded in 1941 and also transformed into a dining room (Alfione, complete with silver cutlery) with a menu that draws its strength from the deli counter selection.

14 Pepèn b.go Sant'Ambrogio, 2c 0521282650 @Pepèn-Official Vintage vibes in this historic (and precursory) sandwich shop.

Among the unmissable tastings there are above all the menu's great classics: from Carciofa to a timeless toast with cooked ham, Fontina and pickles.

15 Humus Bio Bistrot

MY PARMA

of the tongue, from ravioli filled with stracotto beef stew, to the many shades of cuttlefish…

OUR CLASSIC PLEASURE If, as is well known, in art I have neoclassical tastes, when I sit down at the table I want classic: my Parmesan cuisine. It's an ancient cuisine, whose essential elements go beyond the discovery of America (local ham already existed in the days of Hannibal, Parmigiano and the filling of tortelli dates back to the Middle Ages). It's a balanced and harmonious cuisine. In my Labirinto there is a restaurant (with a Spigaroli chef): I often eat there, and for me it's a bit like eating at home; but some nights I feel like diner en ville, which means "going out, eating out" in French. I like to travek to the countryside: for example. In Casalbarbato (in Fontanellato) there is a restaurant that, in addition to offering an impeccable version of the traditional local cuisine, prepares the best fried potatoes in the Universe. Paired to my dinners a sweet Malvasia of our hills. If business or curiosity take you around here, do not forget to visit my Labirinto and the adjoining Al Bambù restaurant; biassed advice, to which I add another, devoid of any personal interest: remember the Osteria di Casalbarbato.

– Franco Maria Ricci, publisher

17 PianoA Drink & Kitchen b.go S. Lorenzo, 1 0521233095 @Pianoadrink This is the kingdom of Mimmo Albano, ideal place for aperitivo, this is a favourite of chef Marco Parizzi. But it lends itself well for an informal dinner (even with mini-portions).

18 J. Roger Speakeasy s.da agli Ospizi Civili, 6 0521283452 @Bar/JRogerdi-Luca-Tesser After dinner lounge with a quiet and elegant atmosphere, well made cocktails signed by Luca Tesser, forerunner of the city's speakeasy scene.

21 Meltemi b.go Del Carbone, 3 0521030814 ristorantemeltemi.com Non è proprio di terroir, ma è un locale moderno in cui pesce fa rima con bollicine, ottimo dopo aver fatto il pieno di culatello e crudo e cotechino! Ottima la lista dei vini, spumanti e Champagne in primis.

19 TCafé

via Rolando De' Capelluti, 6a 0521 992303 humusbistrot.it A new concept place that follows the natural, organic and local trend in its products and dishes, including vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free, lactose-free and least number of allergens.

Palazzo della Duchessa Prati s.da Duomo, 7 0521386429 – palazzo dallarosaprati.it Lounge bar and literary café for aperitivo in a historic building transformed into luxury residences on the medieval square and with a strong modern design imprint.

16 Ohibò

20 Enoteca Tabarro

p.le Cervi, 5 0521286098 – ohibo.it Elastic cuisine and wines of artisans, recites the claim of this new generation eatery: very selected and seasonal products in a new offering: from shabu shabu of Prussian beef to variations

s.da L. C. Farini, 5b 0521200223 - tabarro.net In the heart of the city, an elegant place with a nice selection of labels and craft beers; as well as local products. Away from the tourist formulas in the area.

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22 Gelateria Ciacco s.da G. Garibaldi, 11 0521234063 ciaccogelato.it Place for a sweet break in what is considered one of the best gelaterie in Italy with branches in other cities (and with another opening in Via Mentana 91a). Stefano Guzzetti's goal is to make the purest gelato around. And by subtraction it reaches the top of quality, both in the classic flavours and in the newer ones.

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The lands of Salami

23 Antica Corte Pallavicina Polesine Zibello (PR) fraz. Polesine Parmense s.da del Palazzo delle Due Torri, 3 0524/936539 acpallavicina.com A dream and then some. A memory (of the famed Cantarelli). A great story (from Giuseppe Verdi to Giovannini Guareschi). The splendid relais of the Spigaroli brothers is a unique place where it's difficult to resist the triumph of the different home-made culatello (aged 18 to 36 months). The kitchen is a triumph of what is produced locally, proposed with refinement and balance.

Impressive wine cellar.

24 Hosteria del Maiale Polesine Zibello (PR) fraz. Polesine

I am a lucky man, I have a beautiful family.

e wine? An act of love.

Dr. Lorenzo Fonzone Caccese

AZIENDA AGRICOLA FONZONE CACCESE Località Scorzagalline | Paternopoli AV ITALY

fonzone.it cfdg

PARMA, IN THE CAPITAL OF THE FOOD VALLEY

Parmense s.da del Palazzo delle Due Torri,3 0524936539 acpallavicina.com To rediscover the flavors and culture of the dinner table characteristic of the Bassa Parmense, this is definitely the place that - within the Spigaroli relais - offers the most authentic experience (otherwise, in the name of elegance and refinement, there's Antica Corte Pallavicina, see above).

25 Cavallino Bianco Polesine Zibello (PR) via Sbrisi, 3 052496136 fratellispigaroli.it Part of the Spigaroli galaxy, this warm place where meals are served near the warmth

of the fireplace. Also the Pallavicina cookers (see above), starting with exceptional charcuterie and their own wines.

26 Bistrot del Labirinto

by Spigaroli Fontanellato (PR) fraz. Sanguinaro s.da Masone, 121 05211855372 ristorazione labirinto.it In the suggestive Labirinto della Masone (with different works of art and bamboo plants characterizing it) here is another very territorial version of the two Spigaroli brothers who propose the creations of their Antica Corte.

Hostaria da Ivan Roccabianca (PR) loc. Fontanelle Villa, 24 0521870113 hostariadaivan.it In atmospheres that recall the levity of Guareschi's characters (to whom a menu is also dedicated), Ivan proposes strictly local cuisine. Ingredients are truly km0 and super selected, starting from wild greens (as stuffing for tortelli) and eggs for the zabaione ("old school": with artisan biscuits).

28 Stella d'Oro Soragna (PR) G. Mazzini, 8 0524597122 Historic restaurant of rare elegance in a village famous for its culatello. Marco Dallabona is a chef with extensive experience, with great precedents also in Parma. Try the homage menu to Peppino and Mirella Cantarelli, but there are incursions from the classic to modernity. Very nice wine cellar with 2,000 labels.

27

MY PARMA A TASTY CULTURAL MODEL Parma as the Capital of Culture 2020 and as the Creative City of Unesco Gastronomy, is the first ever in Italy to obtain such a prestigious international recognition. These two important successes include the Parma of tomorrow, the quality center and the Italian Food Valley, a reference model for good food, quality of life and the architectural and cultural richness of its buildings.

Food and culture, together (because food is also culture), have always been two battle horses of the city of Verdi and of opera. And I, an incurable lover of good food and Parmigiano doc, love to talk about it by living every culinary and cultural aspect. The typical dish that I prefer? Give me a portion of anolini in steaming broth and you'll have me conquered. It's a traditional dish of our cuisine, more of autumn than spring, but without forgetting the tortelli filled with greens, Parmigiano Reggiano and Parma ham (I quote the great classics, like Oscar-worthy). I would like to say which is the favorite restaurant where, after an intense day on the upper floors of the Town Hall, I usually take refuge sipping good Lambrusco born from the land of our countryside. I would like to say but there is not one in particular: every corner or avenue in Parma has its own restaurant and its tavern. Every corner of the city has something to tell and to express. Parma is a place to be experienced and enjoyed. – Federico Pizzarotti, Mayor of Parma

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Campanini Busseto (PR) loc. Madonna dei Prati via Roncole Verdi, 136 0524/92569 culatelloandwine.it A five minute drive from the birthplace of the "swan" Giuseppe Verdi, here is the local owned by the Campanini family, stronghold of the area's best flavours: here they produce, select and season their own culatello, cooked shoulder and hams.

29 Al Vedel Colorno (PR) loc. Vedole, 68 0521816169 alvedel.it The Bergonzi family manages this pleasant local restaurant and the adjoining Podere Cadassa, a historic quality artisan salami factory. From the kitchen come the flavours of the territory, but not only, in a menu that juggles with agility both land and sea, classicism and creativity. Interesting tasting menus that speak of the past, but relying on the best homegrown ingredients.

Salami in primis, then meat (rabbit) and freshwater fish. Cellar in tune with the offer.

30

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31 Osteria di Fornio Fidenza (PR) Fornio, 78 052460118 osteriafornio.it Local dating back to the '20s (and the atmosphere proves it) offering a cuisine that's firmly anchored to the territory, starting from the fresh pasta. Good wine list.

32 Antica Trattoria al Duomo Fidenza (PR) Antini, 26 - 052485130 Here the spirit is really of old scholl trattoria, starting from the kitchen: from fried cake (and cold cuts) to anolini in broth, from Duchesse di Parma (rolls and fried meatballs) to desserts, first of all the Italian style trifle.

33 Culatelleria Fontanellato (PR) fraz. Sanguinaro via Emilia, 129 0521825107 culatelleria.it This is the first Italian culatelleria: a format dedicated to culaccia, culatello & co., The typical Parma pork cuts. Here you can eat, taste and buy. Ob-

MINIGUIDE

viously, a valid place for a territorial aperitif.

34 Caseificio Sociale San Salvatore Colorno (PR) s.da Sabbiata, 20 3383568800 caseificio sansalvatore.it A small self-sufficient cheese producer that on average makes 9 wheels of Parmigiano a day and agest them 12 months to 5 years.

natural wines elsewhere unavailable and often little known.

The Road to prosciutto

(and Parmigiano)

36 Il Cerchio

35 Mariella

Collecchio (PR) via O. Grassi, 21 0521800457 bistrotilcerchio.it This is the new restaurant of Roberto Pongolini, former owner of Cantinetta di Felino, former owner of Borgo 20 in Parma (see listing) and "inventor" of a particular focaccia called Pandirò. The cuisine is modern, market-forward and offers both meat and fish.

Calestano (PR) Fragnolo, 29 - 052552102 mariellagennari77 @gmail.com This is one of the best trattorias in Italy: the cuisine is exceptionally solid and elaborated with ingredients selected with rare rigor

by Mariella and Guido. But it's the winery that takes full command: chock with Italian and foreign labels, especially French, with many

37 Nuova Pasticceria Lady San Secondo Parmense (PR) via G. Garibaldi, 37 0521872388 nuovapasticcerialady.it Experimentation is the word of this bakery ranked at the top of Italian confectionery, owing success to the vision of Paola Ziliani and the passion of Angelo Pezzarossa. Wide selection of brioche and leavened products, homemade jams and special, intriguing reinterpretation of the classics.

The best artisans of Prosciutto di Parma P

Tanara Giancarlo

Langhirano (PR) - via Fanti d'Italia, 73 0521852943 - tanaragiancarlo.it Born in 1960, this is one of Parma's historical prosciutto factories, owned by the former President of the Consortium. But Tanara is not just tradition: in recent years it has been testing itself in the hams of Emilia production, outside the PDO.

Q M

Traversetolo (PR) - via Picelli, 49 0521844377 - italgroupalimentari.it Italgroup is basically a single-product company, only Prosciutto di Parma PDO, in addition to a small production of culatta. A ham made according to tradition and the production disciplinary, with thighs of pigs born, reared and slaughtered in Italy at the minimum age of 9 months, and only a small amount of salt.

Prosciuttificio Ruliano

Riano (PR) - s.da Pranello, 6 0521357125 - ruliano.it Born in 1949, upstream of Parma PDO Ruliano there are big thighs of heavy pigs reared as they should, experience and finally the environment: cellars rich in enzymes where the hams season 24 to 36 months. Also try the raw shoulder, an ancient Parma cured meat.

N

Italgroup Alimentari

Prosciuttificio Devodier

Lesignano de’ Bagni (PR) - fraz. Mulazzano via Ponticella, 4 - 0521861070 - devodier.com The experience is more than a century long, the business of curing hams starts in the middle of the 1900s. The selections range from 20 to 36 months. Try the culatta and the raw shoulder.

O

Prosciuttificio Sant’Ilario

Lesignano de' Bagni (PR) - fraz. Mulazzano via Ponticella, 18 - 0521857144 s-ilarioprosciutti.it Attentive selection and processing of heavy pork legs are are at the core of a prosciutto that gives its best over 30 months aging: a Parma outsider, with an out of the ordinary sweetness and fresh delicacy.

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PARMA, IN THE CAPITAL OF THE FOOD VALLEY

Roots and creativity in the city of food

6 suggestions for city nightlife

38 Al Battistero d'Oro s.da Sant'Anna, 22 3384904697 albattisterodoro.it doppia 80-120 euro Charming B&B in the heart of the historic centre. Patrizia Valenti, the friendly and talkative owner, serves a perfect breakfast every morning.

39 Park Hotel Pacchiosi s.da del Quartiere, 4 0521077077 parkhotelpacchiosi.it doppia 200-280 euro Nestled in a beautiful park of 10,000 square meters in the oldest district of Parma, the place is housed in the nineteenth century "Royal Surgical Clinic".

40 Les Suites di Parma s.da G. Garibaldi, 6 05211715029

R

S

Saliceto Azienda Agricola

Montecoppe Azienda Agricola Casearia

Lesignano de’ Bagni (PR) loc. Mulazzano via A. Toscanini, 3 0521857193 saliceto.com Farm with over half a century of experience, with its own supply chain and with freerange pasture-raised cows.

The wheels range from 13 to 36 months. Also interesting is the breeding of pigs for beautiful Felino salami and culatte meats.

lessuitesdiparma.it doppia 100-150 euro Comfortable, bright, with all the comforts for even longer stays besides weekends and a step away from everything there is to see.

Collecchio (PR) loc. Ferlarovia Montecoppe, 19/4 0521805942 montecoppe.it Beautiful agricultural supply chain reality inside the Carrega Fiorest National Park. The creamery is worth a visit. The wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano, aged for over 70 months, are particularly interesting.

Historic dwelling with designer furnishings, and elegant luxury resort-like surroundings.

43 Villino di Porporano

l.go P. Calamandrei, 11 05210304 grandhoteldelaville.com doppia 155-350 euro Elegant and modern hotel near the Duomo, inside the Barilla shopping center.

s.da al Duomo, 7 0521386429 – palazzo dallarosaprati.it doppia 240-280 euro

Caseificio Campielli

Langhirano (PR) s.da della Rocca, 2 3493678563 – azienda agricolacampelli.it An agricultural Parmigiano farm with a closed supply chain, since 1905 (date of construction of the first small "casello" creamery) to date, the two La Rocca and Il Fornello farms have been brought together and the breeding is conducted in free range. 250 cows of which 130 in lactation. Also available at the farm is lodging.

42 Grand Hotel de La Ville

41 Palazzo Dalla Rosa Prati

T

s.da Bodrio, 26 05211626836 villino diporporano.com doppia 130-190 euro B&B with five rooms in country style, with antique furniture, in an old rural building next to the manor house. Protected winter portico and possibility of joining cooking classes.

MY PARMA BARILLA, PROUDLY PROTAGONISTS As Barilla we are proud to participate in Parma Unesco Creative City of Gastronomy. Pasta is excellence of the territory, of the Food Valley and of our "know-how", in a supply chain that goes from "field to table". The virtuous path of Parma Creative City of Unesco Gastronomy sees the fruitful collaboration between public and private. An approach that sees the involvement of all the agri-food brands for the value and promotion of the territory. As Barilla we have promoted many initiatives that have included opening our factories to the public and gastronomic events in Academia Barilla. With satisfaction, the proposed initiatives have found the participation of many international guests: the Food Valley presents itself combining gastronomy, art, culture and beauty.

– Luca Virginio, Barilla Group Director of Communications and External Relations

Almost all the reports of this "mini-guide" are extrapolated from our guides: Restaurants, Bars, Pastry shops, Gelaterias, Pizzerias. The guides are on sale at newsstands and in bookshops; some are available on the app. Inside you will find more details in addition to those published in these pages ( for example the famous Gambero Rosso restaurants scoring in percentiles). To learn more... buy the guides!

 Thanks to the kind collaboration of: Maurizio Bertera, Mara Nocilla, Michele Turelli Map by Alessandro Naldi

IN THE NEXT ISSUE: MINIGUIDE OF NAPLES

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