Cheers Vol. 43 July / Aug 2019 by Cheers Magazine

BRANDY SPIRIT BURNS BRIGHT AN EXCLUSIVE SAFARI WITH

CREAM

EDIBLE BEER

HAVE YOUR BEER ... AND EAT IT!

BOOZY HOT DRINKS WINTER WARMERS IN A GLASS

WINE LABELS

PRICE TAG VS VALUE w w w. t o p s a t s p a r. c o . z a

F ROM T H E E D I TO R

cheers TEAM TOPS at SPAR Group Promotions & Advertising Manager – Liquor Jess Nicholson Group Advertising Controller – Liquor Nicole Hesom

CREPUSCULAR MUSINGS

he sun was about to slip gently over the western horizon on Sunday night. No big deal. Happens at the tail end of every day, right? But this particular day there were some long, streaky high altitude clouds in the sky – probably cirrostratus. (And I know that because I Googled it. Did you know that these clouds are mainly ice crystals and are very thin? They also appear 24 to 48 hours before rain falls – which could explain the very damp and wet Tuesday the Cape experienced two days later ...) I decided to appreciate the moment so grabbed a few friends and found a suitably open spot to enjoy the display. Nature didn’t disappoint. It was a magnificent sunset. Truly astounding! All pinks, gold, orange, yellow and even a suggestion of purple as it got inexorably darker. As the three of us were sitting on log stumps on Rondebosch Common in the growing gloom life could not have been any more perfect. I’d had the foresight to bring along some glasses and a bottle of red wine. It was a 2011 Kevin Arnold Shiraz from Waterford – and it was like mother’s milk eight years on from vintage. Velvety smooth in texture with a heart-stoppingly delicious interplay of ripe, dark berry fruit, subtle flashes of spice and supportive tannin from its maturation in barrel, its freshness belied its age. Even the 20-something who admits to being a philistine about wine was making appreciative noises and held out his glass a second and third time. It was one of those moments in life in which beauty, art, creativity and sybaritic pleasure collectively rolled up into one. Lightning or a heart attack could have taken me right then and I’d have died happy – but it didn’t so I lived to tell the tale! But sitting on those log stumps the discussion turned to the wine and how much the bottle had cost. “This is obviously not the cheap stuff!” my one friend said... That particular bottle is just one of many that have occupied space on my wine rack for a number of years so I honestly had no clue. Still don’t. I had to resort to Google again. The current release sells for just under R300. It led to a lively chat about price and worth – what sort of value you attach to something – which is also the subject of a feature in this month’s issue which expands on that theme, specifically as it relates to wine. There was a lot of chatter about the grapes costing X and the bottle costing Y but also about looking at it holistically, where personal enjoyment cannot put a price on something. Like a beautiful sunset. It might “cost” nothing to sit on a log and enjoy the dying rays of the sunset – but to a terminally ill patient in a hospital bed, a prisoner behind bars, a correspondent in a war zone, someone snowbound in a different hemisphere... what price would they pay for the experience? It’s not always simple to quantify the value or worth of something. Cheers

FIONA MCDONALD CHEERS EDITOR

cheersmag.co.za

CheersMag

INTEGRATED MEDIA Publisher Shayne Dowling shayne@integratedmedia.co.za Editor Fiona McDonald fiona@integratedmedia.co.za Art Director Candi Acheson studio@integratedmedia.co.za Advertising Shayne Dowling shayne@integratedmedia.co.za PR & Promotions Dee Griffin dee@integratedmedia.co.za Photography iStockphoto.com Contributors Emile Joubert, Teresa Ulyate, Gerrit Rautenbach, David Bowman, Clifford Roberts, Craig Ray, Dr Winnie Bowman and Gareth George Head Office Cape Town Tel: 021 685 0285 Address Suite WB03 Tannery Park 23 Belmont Road, Rondebosch, 7700 Postal Address PO Box 259, Rondebosch, 7701 Printing Novus Print Published by Integrated Media for TOPS at SPAR

STOCKISTS SPAR Good Living items are available at your nearest SPAR outlets. COMPETITION TERMS AND CONDITIONS Competition submissions should reach us no later than 15th August 2019. The Prize/s is as indicated, no alternatives or cash will be provided. The decision of Integrated Media will be ﬁnal and no correspondence will be entered into. Under no circumstances shall Integrated Media, TOPS at SPAR, SPAR or its appointed representatives and the prize donors be liable to anyone who enters these Prize Draws for an indirect or consequential loss howsoever arising which may be suﬀered in relation to the Prize Draws. By entering these competitions you make yourself subject to receiving promotional information. Entrants are deemed to have accepted these terms and conditions. Prize Draw Rules: The prize draw is only open to consumers who must be over 18 years of age and resident in South Africa. Employees of Integrated Media and TOPS at SPAR, SPAR and their respective advertising, media and PR agencies, as well as the family members, consultants, directors, associates and trading partners of such organisations and persons are ineligible for the draw. Participants can only win one competition every 3 issues.

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J U L /AU G 2 0 1 9 VO L 43

18 IT’S ALIVE!

Brandy is on the comeback trail “This is where brandy becomes sexy: either neat, or in a host of cocktails that celebrate Cape Town’s oceans, mountains, fynbos and the vineyards.”

P30

contents

AN EXCLUSIVE SAFARI WITH

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CREAM

features 12 VALUE VS WORTH

regulars FROM THE EDITOR Moments in the sunset

48 EMILE JOUBERT

treasuring a bottle of wine…

22 TASTING: Brandy

NEWS SCOOP TOPS at SPAR wine show venues & dates; Tonic goes large and a bumper Three Ships advert

50 OF HEARTH & HOME Shepherd’s Pie and more

24 PERFECT SERVE

Awards season round up

Brandy Alexander’s Lennon moment

60 FUNKY & FABULOUS!

38 HOT BITES

Unicorn pillows, hand warmers and cool candles.

26 WINTER WARMERS Spirited hot drinks to enjoy

32 BREAKAWAYS Tapping into the reserves 35 BEER’S BOUNTY Have your brew & eat it!

58 WORLD CUP RUGBY Japan beckons

66 LOG FIRES The 101 on wood burning stoves

68 DUALITY OF MEANING Words with two faces

Nibbly bits of news

42 BOOK GIVEAWAY A Taste of South Africa with The Kosher Butcher’s Wife by Sharon Lurie A COPY OF THE KOSHER BUTCHER’S WIFE

Sop vir die siel

54 HOT NEWS

61 LIVE IT UP With bright and bold styling

62 FISHING It’s not called catching…

64 ENTERTAINMENT Music, movies & books

69 APPS Fit for a food fan

70 NEXT ISSUE Popping the cork on Champagne

72 LOOPDOP Gerrit Rautenbach loop Johannes Kerkorrel raak

Check out Cheers magazine online

www.cheersmag.co.za

M JU AY L //AU JUN G 2019

THE SCOOP SEEING RED It’s only been commercially available locally since 2004 but KWV Roodeberg is one of the country’s most recognised and sought after blended red wines – and it is 70 this year. To mark this 70th anniversary the brand has been given a suitable packaging upgrade. Made for the first time in 1949, the wine was intended to be an honest expression of a Cape red – and was the product of Dr Charles Niehaus, one of the South African wine industry’s pioneers. As the chief wine scientist at the KWV Niehaus succeeded Professor Abraham Perold, the man who “invented” Pinotage by crossing the grapes Pinot Noir and Hermitage – or Cinsaut. From the onset, the composition of the Roodeberg blend was shrouded in secrecy. Roodeberg was openly referred to as a secret blend with a blending panel tasked to determine the final configuration, taking care to achieve consistency with every vintage. After Dr Niehaus retired in 1971, the blend generally comprised Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Pinotage and Tinta Barocca, according to the Platter Wine Guide of the time. In the 1990s, Roodeberg’s evolution continued with the introduction of small French oak maturation barrels. According to the January 1986 Wynboer, for South Africans abroad, a glass of Roodeberg was like a hug from home. The same still rings true today. For many Roodeberg conjures up fond memories of people, places and occasions, and of sharing special moments with family and friends, often with rare vintages squirreled away.

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Branded bottle openers available at the SAB World of Beer in Newtown, Johannesburg

RAISING A CAP TO BEER Life is all about evolution. As humans have evolved, so have the tools we use. In years gone by beer cans had ring top pulls which were removed. Then it was redesigned so the pull tab remained part of the can and wasn’t disposed of. Bottles have seen swing top with glass or porcelain marbles make way to the crown cap which needed an opener to be removed. But are bottle openers obsolete now? “Beer has featured throughout the history of South Africa and continues to be an important part of society,” said Tshepo Tloubatla, SAB Beer Culture Manager at SAB and AB InBev Africa. “So never fear, your bottle opener isn’t ever going to become an ornament!” Which came ﬁrst – the bottle cap, or the bottle opener? While there are variations to the origin, the widely accepted theory is that both the bottle cap and opener were invented by the same man: William Painter. Before Painter made his brilliant invention, beer was either stopped with a cork or a swing top – the issue with these were that they were reusable, sparking all manner of hygienic issues

as well as horribly ﬂat beer. So history states the bottle cap (or crown cap as it was known at the time) and the bottle opener were invented simultaneously. Soon after, all bottle producers began to use the crown cap and thus the market for bottle openers was established. Cheaply produced but widely used, these openers eventually became branded and by the early 1900s there was tremendous competition between Pabst, Miller, and Anheuser-Busch to take control of this new market. In the last 50-years, an alternative was invented – the twist off cap. And while this cap is used more and more, especially with bigger brewers, twist off caps aren’t as fragile as they once were and can still be opened with a bottle opener. The AB InBev international brands still come with the age-old pry off cap, which is best suited to preserve the beer for the long distance it must travel to get to your home. SAB provides a multitude of branded openers, including Carling Black Label, Stella Artois, Castle Milk Stout, Castle Lager and Flying Fish, with which to open your favourite tipple.

RADIANT & RAVISHING Van Loveren Wines created a stir in wine circles by the massive success of their ‘no frills, no fuss’ Four Cousins range more than a decade ago. And they’re doing it again with the increasing interest in their low alcohol product – called Almost Zero – which see a red and rosé added to the already popular white. “Almost Zero taps into consumer lifestyle changes and especially the growing trend of ﬁtness-focussed healthy living that is driving innovation of low-alcohol and alcohol-free products,” said Van Loveren CEO Phillip Retief. “It caters to the very speciﬁc need to have a non-alcoholic drink that still has a distinctive wine character.” From bottle to glass, Almost Zero looks like wine and tastes like wine but has less than 0,4% alcohol. The alcohol in one glass of wine is therefore equivalent to 38 glasses of Almost Zero. (And it’ll take 10 glasses of Almost Zero to be the same amount of sugar as a single glass of commercial orange juice!) The near-absence of alcohol means by law it can’t be called wine, although this de-alcoholised wonder begins life as such. To remove the alcohol, it is gently spun, allowing the wine to spread thinly across steel cones and the alcohol to evaporate. The range now comprises Wonderful White, Ravishing Rosé and Radiant Red.

REVAMPED BRANDING Journey’s End is a picturesque wine farm located on the mountain slopes above Sir Lowry’s Pass Village, near Somerset West, in the Helderberg basin. Its stylish tasting centre, glassed on three sides, overlooks the barrel cellar and embraces the untrammelled beauty of the panoramic vista. Already known as one of the most experimental wineries around, Journey’s End has just revamped its packaging in order to differentiate the wines in its three ranges. The labels on the Tales Series are designed to tell the story behind each wine – and hence the Weather Station

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Sauvignon Blanc, Haystack Chardonnay, The Hunstman red wine blended from Shiraz, mourvèdre and viognier and Pastor’s blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc. The V series encompasses the varietal range – wines made from a single grape variety, so Chardonnay, Merlot, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. At the top of the ladder is the Precision series: Destination Chardonnay, The Griffin (Syrah) and Cape Doctor (Cabernet Sauvignon).

NEWLY REGAL Chivas Regal is shaking up the Scotch whisky scene with a new product, the Chivas XV. The 15-year-old blended Scotch whisky is challenging conventions and looks set to become a South African favourite according to Chivas South Africa brand manager Blue Masoka. “South Africans love to celebrate with a glass of their favourite drink, and the Chivas XV was created for whisky drinkers to raise a glass at the next celebration. We also know that Scotch whisky fans are looking for new ways in which to enjoy their favourite drink and Chivas XV is the perfect expression to experiment with, to create new tastes, along with memorable experiences that live on long after the occasion.’’ Setting this whisky apart is not just its age but the fact that it has been “selectively finished” in Grande Champagne Cognac casks – so it’s a carefully curated marriage of two of the world’s most prestigious spirits. The use of Cognac casks delivers a rich, refined and velvety interpretation of the traditional Chivas house style Chivas XV, named in a nod to both the age statement and the style of traditional Cognac classification, features a contemporary new look, while also sharing the same iconic bottle shape that helps to make Chivas whiskies so recognisable around the world.

ROLL UP! Billed as the most Winederful Show on Earth, the TOPS at SPAR wine show rolls into Cape Town and Port Elizabeth in July. The Mother City hosts the event after successful staging of the wine circus in both Durban and Johannesburg in May and June respectively. The wine theatres have proved popular with patrons who have enjoyed host and ringmaster Jon Meinking’s pared down, easy to understand sessions aimed at introducing novices and aﬁcionados alike to the joys of the various grapes. At the other – more geeky – end of the spectrum Andre Morgenthal of the Old Vine Project has poured wines for enthusiastic tasters and told them all about the merits of wines from vineyards which have had their roots set in the soil for 35 years or more. This is a category of wine which is being appreciated by audiences all over the world, not just locally. But the TOPS at SPAR wine show is not just about wine: it’s an opportunity for people to have a fun time sampling gin and other products to be found on retail shelves in a friendly atmosphere. Tickets are available through Quicket and can be booked online at www.wineshow.co.za. A variety of different ticket options are available so if styling in a cordoned off VIP area like a rock star is your thing, TOPS at SPAR have you covered!

TOKARA’S WINTER WARMER Shiraz is the richly fruity and spicy wine synonymous with France’s Rhône region. It’s also one of the most planted grape varieties in South Africa. Tokara vineyards in the foothills of the Simonsberg outside Stellenbosch has just released the 2017 vintage of its Shiraz. Having spent some time being matured in oak barrels, the wine offers consumers more than just fruit flavours. It’s a given that succulent plums, blackberries and briar fruit with subtle notes of dried herbs, black olives and rosemary will be present – along with the characteristic spiciness associated with shiraz becomes but all of those are supported by fine chalky tannins which leave a lasting, dry finish. Although meant to warm the heart, Tokara Shiraz 2017 drinks well when slightly chilled. Its makers suggest it be enjoyed with roast pork loin, quail or duck breast.

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NGIDI’S SPIRIT Production at Wellington’s James Sedgwick distillery, the home of Bain’s Cape Mountain Whisky and Three Ships, was unaffected by the filming of a television advert for these two spirits – but staff were star struck! There was an interesting synergy between the Protea star being filmed, fast bowling sensation Lungi Ngidi, and Three Ships whisky’s maker, master distiller Andy Watts. That’s because he used to be a cricketer with Derby county – and only relocated to South Africa to play cricket. Ngidi is considered an ‘overnight sensation’ for the way he’s burst onto the local cricket scene but, as the advert makes clear, he embodies the essence of the saying, ‘success favours those willing to work hard for it.’ From watching a cricket game from the banks of the school where his father was a caretaker to striding the hallowed cricket turf of the Oval in London is a long way – but Ngidi put in the effort, the hours of training, refining and honing his technique and skill to the point where it now looks effortless. “My journey started with humble beginnings. I don’t come from a place

“Talent can only take you so far, but hard work combined with talent can take you to the top,”

of wealth and that has become the motivation that I needed. As the breadwinner in my household it has been pushing me since the very first day to offer my family a better life.” Ngidi is featured in the third visual collaboration series by Three Ships Whisky, celebrating exceptional South Africans. He has crafted a future for himself despite many obstacles, and similar to the globally award-winning Three Ships Whisky, proved that circumstance is never the deciding factor of turning a dream into a reality. “I’m not an overnight sensation and definitely not merely lucky.” Fast bowling requires speed but technique and flawless repetition. “Talent can only take you so far, but hard work combined with talent can take you to the top,” the bowler said. It’s something distiller Andy Watts, can relate to. Through hard work and an uncompromising belief that South Africa could make the world’s best whiskies, he set out to establish local whiskies globally. “It really is a privilege to represent my country,” Ngidi said, “and I can only imagine how Andy felt when he won that first Global Award for the proudly South African whisky. It’s what we strive for when we excel at our profession – to be the best and not allow our current environment to determine where we’re going in the future.”

DRINKING RESPONSIBLY Two new wines have joined the Leopard’s Leap range – and herald the adoption of one of the season’s lifestyle trends, wines with less alcohol. The Leopard’s Leap Natura classic white and classic red are de-alocholised products. Both offer wine lovers a tasty alternative for adding quality to life during those occasions or in those moments where alcohol can - or should - not be consumed. Versatile, healthconscious and delicious, Natura is ideal for a responsible, everyday lifestyle. Being dealcoholised, the Natura is made from a traditional alcoholic wine from which the alcohol has been extracted to leave no more than 0.5% alcohol by volume. The Natura classic white is a blend of Chenin Blanc and Muscat. Crisp and refreshing with tropical fruit ﬂavours on the nose, the palate is juicy and beautifully integrated. Delightful on its own as an aperitif, it is also a lovely partner to delicate soups and all kinds of salads and seafood. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cinsaut, the Natura classic red intrigues with ripe red berries and sweet spice on the nose while the palate follows through with a smooth mouth feel and lingering aftertaste. Delightful on its own, it is also an outstanding and versatile partner on the dinner table. Not only does Natura have fewer kilojoules than the average wine but it is also vegan friendly since no animal by-products are used in its making.

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GOING BIG IN GLASS An often overlooked component in drinking enjoyment is that of mixers. Ginger ale, cola, tonic and even soda water play an important role. One of South Africa’s foremost mixer manufacturers, Fitch & Leedes has introduced something to help everyone’s rands stretch a little further. Their popular range of carbonated drinks and mixers are now available in 750ml glass bottles for the ﬁrst time. Because the larger glass bottles take up less room in the fridge than conventional cans, it’s now possible to have a selection of mixers at the ready when cocktail hour strikes.

HEY DIDDLE DIDDLE In the children’s nursery rhyme “Hey Diddle Diddle” the cow jumped over the moon – which gave the English language an expression for being thrilled or super excited: being over the moon. But Survivor, the wine range from Overhex Wines International, is named for an Nguni cow which jumped out of a truck while being transported between two Swartland farms– and survived after landing in a vineyard. Winemaker Ben Snyman followed the cow’s example by throwing off the shackles and making a Chardonnay as naturally as possible, using wild yeasts rather than commercial yeast from a packet. The Survivor Wild Yeast Chardonnay has been a commercial success, with previous vintages sold out. “Our Chardonnay owes its unrestrained character, structure and fullness to the use of wild yeasts rather than commercially produced versions,” says winemaker Ben Snyman, who believes this is the way all wines should be made. Fermented in new 500l French oak barrels using only naturally occurring yeasts, the 2018 vintage rewards with oatmeal and lime leaping from the glass followed by invigorating layers of citrus on the palate. The wine shows excellent oak integration after maturing in barrel for 11 months.

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The 750ml collection is available in all the popular Fitch & Leedes ﬂavours: Indian tonic, pink tonic, club soda, bitter lemon, lemonade and new cheeky cranberry. Enjoy them on their own, mixed in with a favourite gin, vodka, rum or whisky or make a beautifully garnished virgin cocktail with fruit juice.

LOOKING TO THE OCEAN Anyone who has spent time on a South African beach at the height of summer will appreciate how refreshing a cooling sea breeze can feel. Stellenbosch wine producer Spier Wines has spent two years refining two wines which reflect their coastal origins; a lightly-wooded chardonnay and a spicy Shiraz. Together the two comprise the Seaward range and now form part of the historic Stellenbosch wine farm’s Signature Collection, along with the globally recognised award-winning Spier 21 Gables wines. The grapes for these two wines are selected by the Spier winemaking team under cellar master Frans Smit – and all come from a narrow band of land, up to 25km inland from the icy Atlantic seaboard. At the height of summer, the confluence of the cooling ocean breezes allow the vines to thrive in ideal ripening conditions. The vines are relatively diseasefree, and little intervention is needed to produce a crop of outstanding quality flavour intensity, year after year. Because ocean-facing grapes have thicker skins and are generally smaller in size than their inland counterparts, they tend to yield less fruit – these factors make it a considerable commitment on Spier’s part to invest in vinifying these grapes. Yet the benefits are clearly evident in the resulting wines. “There is a purity of fruit in these wines, with great concentration, balance and finesse,” Smit said. “The common thread is a saline minerality, given the proximity to the ocean. We’re really excited about sharing the fruits of our labour with wine lovers.”

CHEERS FOR BEERS

PINK ANNIVERSARY Polkadraai is the name of a dance step – as well as a winding road which connects a host of different vineyards and farms which supply grapes to Stellenbosch Hills. Playing on this polka association, the fun-loving wine range doesn’t take itself too seriously and is happily branded with polka dots! And there’s a new wine which joins the line up on its 10th anniversary – a fun, friendly, fruity pink. Made from Shiraz grapes supplied by the 16 members which make up and supply the Stellenbosch Hills winery, the Polkadraai rosé has gentle ﬂoral aromas and an enticing salmon pink hue which is as pleasing to the eye as to the palate. Crisp, refreshing and dry the 2019 hint at happy times and summer sunshine. The Polkadraai rosé is the latest in a line of milestones which include the 65th anniversary of the winery in 2010 – the year Polkadraai Pinot Noir sparkling was launched – and the three-litre pack a year later. The community initiative Polkakids was also started and sees every Polkadraai wine purchase contribute to education. A portion of all sales is donated to the Vlottenburg Primary School through this community project of which Stellenbosch Hills has been a patron since 2009. The school has some 400 learners that include the younger children of most of the vineyard and winery employees at Stellenbosch Hills.

Cape Town hosted the first ever African Beer Cup recently – and all indications are that the continents beer makers are doing a great job. Gold awards went to Botswana’s St Louis Lager in the Standard American Beer category, Swaziland’s Sibebe Lager in the International Lager category, South Africa’s Castle Milk Stout in the Dark British Beer category and Nigeria’s Hero Premium Lager in the Alternative Fermentables Beer category. “It was exciting to be awarded all three spots in the hotly contested International Lager category, with Tanzania’s Kilimanjaro Premium Lager and South Africa’s Carling Black Label claiming silver and bronze,” said Tshepo Tloubatla, Beer Culture Manager, SAB and AB InBev Africa. The African Beer Cup, an annual competition which seeks to crown the continent’s best beers, was open to licenced, commercial breweries large and small, as long as the beers entered were brewed in Africa. Entries were judged by a panel of judges who had completed the international Beer Judge Certification Programme. The competition was founded by local beer industry movers and shakers Lucy Corne, editor of On Tap Magazine and founder of Brewmistress.co.za, and Shaun Duthie, brewer and former president of the Southyeasters Homebrewers Club, out of a love for beer and a desire to nurture a stronger beer culture across the African continent. “Beer has been an intrinsic part of African and South African culture for hundreds of years, bringing people together as they mark life’s special moments of celebration and contemplation, from the most remote rural settings to ekasi and the ‘burbs,” said Tloubatla. “We are proud that our beers have been recognised among the continents finest.”

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PRICE / COST

VALUE OR WORTH?

ONE OF THE WORLD’S SAVVIEST INVESTORS AMERICAN WARREN BUFFETT IS OFTEN QUOTED AS SAYING: “PRICE IS WHAT YOU PAY; VALUE IS WHAT YOU GET.” FIONA MCDONALD LOOKS AT SOUTH AFRICAN WINE PRICES THROUGH THIS PRISM.

1 2 w w w . tt oo pp ss aa tt ss ppaarr..ccoo. .zzaa

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few weeks ago Johannesburg fine art auctioneers Strauss & Co held its inaugural fine wine auction. On the block were rare South African wines such as a single bottle of 1966 GS Cabernet Sauvignon and another of 1987 Klein Constantia Vin de Constance. The reserve prices set on these single bottles were R28 000 to R30 000 for the first, and R20 000 to R30 000 for the second, which was coincidentally only the second bottling of the recreation of the famous Constantia sweet wine. Strauss & Co deal in art: South African works from renowned painters such as Maggie Loubser or Irma Stern whose Still Life With Dahlias and Fruit sold for R15 million in May. The fact that they are testing the waters with wine is indicative of the emergence of a secondary market for local wine. Have South Africa’s top wines come of age now that they can be bought almost as an investment commodity – like a piece of art? In the United Kingdom this secondary market is nothing new. Since the turn of the millennium, in fact, wine as a commodity has been outperforming traditional stocks and shares. Not just any old wine, but special wines – wines with pedigree and established track records of increasing in value and desirability as their availability decreases. In an article for Drinks Business, the head of sales at Liv-Ex, a specialist wine investment firm, James Fletcher said: “Over the last 15 years fine wine has not only outperformed equities but provided investors with far more stability in comparison of the turbulence of the equity markets.” And the reason for this? “Demand and interest in fine wines is growing around the world and supply of the top wines cannot increase - supply is limited,” said Simon Staples of world famous wine merchant Berry Bros & Rudd in The Telegraph in 2017. “The best performing wines are great examples. They become 14 w w w .t o p s a t s p a r. c o . z a

ABOVE: No expense was spared in the crafting of Tokara Telos, the unashamedly ambitious flagship offering priced at R4 000.

increasingly unattainable over time as bottles are consumed, and fine wine matures and improves with age.” Wine is like any investment: it needs to be researched and should be a good product. Putting your hard-earned money into a dodgy company with folks who fiddle the books is not a great idea! You might as well take a match to your hard-earned R100 and R200 notes for all the benefit that such an investment will have ... It comes down to track record and value. So what makes one wine “worth” more than another? It’s easy enough to look at the fixed costs that go into a single

bottle of wine. Here one needs to factor in things like the cost of the land, how much money was spent on trellis poles, wires, irrigation pipes and even tractors in establishing the vineyard. A vine takes four to five years to mature and bear a commercial crop – but it still needs to be pruned, trained onto the trellis wire, suckered and maintained. There’s the establishment cost of the winery: buildings, stainless steel tanks, pumps, presses. A single oak barrel from France costs in excess of a €1 000. At today’s exchange range that’s roughly R17 000 – and will yield enough wine for about 300 bottles. If you

Demand and interest in fine wines is growing around the world and supply of the top wines cannot increase - supply is limited. do the math that’s around R56 per bottle of wine – if only used once, but they’re generally used three times which reduce the per bottle cost to R19. And that’s before taking the winemaker’s salary, the electricity or water cost, farm labour and the investment in time of those 300-litres of wine sitting in barrel for 12 months. Or the cost of the bottle, the cork or screwtop, the label design fees ... Asking the cost is the wrong question, Brad Gold, general manager of Iona Vineyards maintains. It’s not just the input costs which factor into price. Everyone has costs – whether you’re cropping your vines at 20 tons of grapes per hectare or six. Gold cited the example of perceived worth. “You go round to a mate’s house for a braai with a bottle of The Chocolate Block and there’s another bottle which is a third of the price at R80. It’s not about one bottle being three times the price or any better quality. You’re going to enjoy the R80 bottle with a braaied steak or lamb chop anyway – it’s about the Chocolate Block being perceived as something special. “Is it the wine’s fault that one is ‘less’ than the other? No. The audience is the one that decides it. “It’s exactly the same with a Louis Vuitton handbag. Is an LV handbag REALLY all that superior to something you bought at Edgars – also made of leather with brass clasps and solid stitching? No. It’s still a handbag which will carry your purse, your mascara and lipstick and tissues. It’s about how YOU are viewed with a Vuitton slung over your arm!” The same goes for a pair of

Nike trainers or Hi-Tec sneakers, a Versace outﬁt or a non-branded item, Montblanc pen or a Bic. They do the same thing but are priced differently. There was a magnum of Domaine Romanée Conti which was on the wine list of Johannesburg restaurant Marble for R150 000 Gold said. “It’s been sold! If you were the person doing a R50 million or R100 million deal, spending R150k on a unique, rare and special bottle of wine to sweeten the deal is money well spent.”

Wine is a luxury product maintained Gold – and South Africa has a slew of wines challenging price barriers. In the 1990s Hamilton-Russell ﬁrst broached the R100 a bottle ceiling. Nowadays, R100 is almost the starting point with the Ultra Value Wine Challenge using it as the threshold while Winemag. co.za has set R120 as the upper limit of its recently announced Value Competition. In 2018, Stellenbosch wine estate Tokara launched Telos, a Cabernet Sauvignon-led red blend

BELOW:Named for Pliny the Elder’s book on winemaking philosophy this red blend has been described as “turbocharged” but also silky smooth, seductive and irresistible by wine critics.

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with dabs of Malbec (5%) and Merlot (3%), in London’s famous wine club, 67 Pall Mall. The wine was conﬁdently tasted alongside 2010 Chateau Latour and Chateau Cheval Blanc – wines considered ‘perfect’ by inﬂuential American wine critic Robert Parker who scored them 100 points. Telos, blended from the best four barrels of Cabernet Sauvignon in the Helshoogte winery’s cellar, more than comfortably held its own against these world wine heavyweights according to wine critics who were present at the launch. Both French red blends (if you can get them) will set you back a pretty penny: R12 500 for Cheval Blanc and around R14 000 for Latour. The Telos sells for northwards of R4 000. Makes it seem like a bargain, doesn’t it? And Telos is not alone in occupying that seemingly stratospheric – from a South African perspective – price bracket. A wine selling in the same league yet seldom seen in South Africa is G, made by former Meerlust cellar chief Giorgio dalla Cia for partners in 4G wines, Philipp Axt and the late Professor Denis Dubourdieu, former consultant to Cheval Blanc and professor of oenology at the university of Bordeaux. Its ‘baby brother’ Echo of G retails for between R1 500 and R2 000. Then there’s the Cabernet Franc 2014, a collaboration between Niels Verburg of Luddite and Brian Smith of Elgin Ridge 16 w w w .t o p s a t s p a r. c o . z a

Wines which came in a threebottle case selling for R15 000. De Toren’s Book XVII sells for R2 750 while its Black Lion costs the same. Kanonkop’s Black Label Pinotage started off in 2009 at R1 000 for the first 1 000 bottles produced from gnarled, nearly 60-year-old bush vines, the oldest on the Stellenbosch estate. It’s now at R1 850. Waterford’s The Jem sells for R1 600 and Mvemve Raats’ MR de Compostella is R1 300. One of the men involved in setting up the Strauss & Co fine wine auction was local sommelier Higgo Jacobs. In the catalogue introduction he wrote: “The concept of South Africa’s finest is a fluid and dynamic one.” His inference being that fluctuating fashion and tastes mean that things will change over time. New producers will arrive while other established ones will fall out of favour. One wine available on the auction was the 2015 Kanonkop Paul Sauer, a wine that scored a perfect 100 by international wine critic Tim Atkin. At the time of its release in September 2018 the wine sold for R515 from the farm. The Strauss & Co catalogue had its reserve price at R6 000 for a six bottle case – double what the wine sold for on release. That’s an indication of how fluid and dynamic the local scene is, as well as the fact that people could soon be buying wine as an investment rather than as a superbly tasty beverage.

ABOVE: A case of wine, bought for investment rather than drinking enjoyment, could potentially outperform shares.

BELOW: Because of its track record and unwavering quality, Kanonkop wine estate’s Black Label Pinotage is considered a South A ican icon.

SPIRIT |

BRANDY

WINNING FIERY HEARTS AND MINDS

LONG ASSOCIATED AS A PARTNER TO SWEET COLA AND ENJOYED BY THE MASSES, DR WINNIE BOWMAN WRITES THAT BRANDY HAS TURNED A CORNER IN BOTH PERCEPTION AND SALES. BRANDY IS SEXY AND BRANDY IS BACK!

outh Africa’s collective brandy trophy cabinet is buckling under all the national and international awards, and that trend of winning medals and cups galore shows no sign of abating. Brandy is back in a big way and after a blip has shown a 20% year-on-year growth over the last five years. So swiftly has the brandy following grown that Cape Town sports a dedicated brandy cocktail bar, Cause + Effect, owned by internationally renowned mixologist, Kurt Schlechter. This is where brandy becomes sexy: either neat, or in a host of cocktails

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that celebrate Cape Town’s oceans, mountains, fynbos and the vineyards. Think next level cocktails such as Karoo Oyster, Brandy Marigold, Pearsonality (with Pear eau de Vie) and The Bowman. Brandy has long been a staple in South Africa, consumed both for pleasure and remedy during times of malaise. Almost every Voortrekker ox wagon that left the Cape for the uncharted northern territories from 1835 onwards, had its own barrel as an essential part of the mandatory provisions. It was imbibed during late nights around the fire, soothingly rubbed on the

gums of teething babies, as well as trading for fresh produce with locals encountered on the trek. Brandy has been used throughout history as a medicine, thought to ward off everything from pneumonia to plague. A book of medicinal recipes passed down since 1688 has just recently been sold in London for £11 250. They include “plague water”, made with herbs and brandy. By the mid-19th century, the grape spirit was regularly used as a medicine, primarily as a cardiac stimulant as it was believed to be good for the heart and blood

RIGHT: Mixing business with pleasure: the director of the Brandy Foundation, Christelle ReadeJahn promotes the spirit throughout South Africa

pressure. Incidents of heart disease in Gascony, where Armagnac is made, remains extremely low to this day. Brandy was included in the British Pharmacopoeia (“Spiritus Vini Gallici”) and the belief in its superiority was not confined to lay people: the eminent British Medical journal, the Lancet, stated that “… brandy is so universally regarded as superior to all other spirits from a medicinal point of view …”. He might have been pipped to the southernmost pole but nineteenth century Arctic explorer, Robert Scott, had no other alcohol on any sledge journey, except for a small can of brandy for emergencies. Other reputed and reported health properties of brandy range from weight loss, insomnia, boosting the immune system, lowering cholesterol levels, combating ageing all the way through to alleviating congestion in the arteries. Indeed a wonder drink! So who is behind this renewed interest and revival of the South African brandy industry? Four dynamic women lead the way: Christelle Reade-Jahn is the director of the South African Brandy Foundation (SABF) and a lady of many talents. (She has completed 10 Two Ocean half-

Combining organic chemistry with artistry and creativity is within the job description of Dr Mare-Lou Prinsloo of Distell.

marathons, and has her own permanent light-blue racing number for the event!) You will find her trail running in Stellenbosch’s Jonkershoek or Helderberg mountains on weekends. The SABF aims to facilitate the long-term growth and preserve the integrity and heritage of the South African brandy industry and represents more than 95% of South African brandy producers. Reade-Jahn has a clear vision for the brandy industry: “I believe firmly in the quality and excellence of our brandy industry and the brandy masters. In an ideal world everyone would share the understanding and value of creating products of such excellence. I’m proud to work for the brandy industry and would feel satisfied when everyone in the value chain prospers from bigger global exposure and understanding of the quality that underpins our production methods”.

This shows one that brandy production is actually a team sport and that we are privileged to be part of the journey and the challenge of building the ongoing legacy of brandy.” Dr Mare-Lou Prinsloo is the head of the brandy and other spirits excellence for the Distell group and holds a law degree as well as a PhD in organic chemistry. Brandy excites Prinsloo, because it is a direct application of her field of chemistry study. “This is the space where science meets art – the wonder that wine is distilled from grapes, which is a natural product, and then aged for at least three years in oak (also a natural product). This evolves into a very special product, and it is always a wonderful experience to use the building blocks to produce a consistent, high-quality product year in and out that is enjoyed by consumers,” says Prinsloo. “Furthermore, how special is it to enjoy older brandies, such as those of 20 years plus, which were distilled, aged and produced by several different people over the years? This shows one that brandy production is actually a team sport and that we are privileged to be part of the journey and the challenge of building the ongoing legacy of brandy.” J U L / AU G 2 0 1 9

SPIRIT |

BRANDY

Marlene Bester, master distiller at Van Ryn outside Stellenbosch hails from a sheep farm in the Northern Cape. Her love for brandy developed at the James Sedgwick Whisky Distillery in Wellington: “At Van Ryn I can indulge my passion of distillation, but also the aging and blending processes to make the best brandy possible. “Brandy gives me such pleasure because there are so many facets to the process where one has to bring the finer nuances of the building blocks into the glass. It’s a very time consuming process, but oh so satisfying. And to think that some of these blending building blocks that I’m working with were distilled 40 or more years ago by another generation! This comes with huge responsibility to produce a product that will be enjoyed long after I’m gone. “I want to produce a brandy that consumers can enjoy, whatever the occasion. As far as South African brandy goes, I am excited about the potential, and the reach – we dominate the international brandy awards. This keeps us on our toes and forces us to be creative and relevant in the changing spirits market.”

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Ilse du Toit joined KWV in 2008 as Brandy Blending Manager. Her experience in maturation of brandy, and blending supported her passion for perfecting the blending process: “I believe brandy, although perceived as a tough product, wants to be treated with respect, passion and time. The craft of brandy making is perfected in the blending: different barrels, styles, flavours, ages and aromas come together to make the product of highest quality, perfect balance and ultimate enjoyment. “To be part of the team that won numerous World Best brandy awards is one of the highlights of my career. Seeing people enjoy the products that I make is even more rewarding. I also believe that I have one of the best jobs available – I get to taste brandies from 8am in the morning!”

ABOVE: Marlene Bester’s ability to make fine brandy has been proven time and time again – with gold medals draped over the necks of the bottles she’s shepherded onto shelf.

BELOW: “Treat it with respect and the rewards will follow,” says Ilse du Toit of the KWV.

SO HOW DO THESE WOMEN ENJOY THEIR BRANDIES? Reade-Jahn enjoys 15-year old potstill brandies neat over ice whilst listening to her favourite opera or classical music. Her cocktail of choice is a Sidecar by Kurt Schlechter, which contains brandy, Triple Sec, fresh lemon juice and finished off with a fragrant Absinthe tincture spray – delicious! Prinsloo doesn’t believe that there is just one way to enjoy brandy: “In Summer I love brandy and ginger ale or tonic with loads of ice and a slice of lemon, and after dinner, a good potstill is a treat!” Bester is a bookworm, and enjoys a refreshing brandy cocktail in summer whilst reading under the trees, or a stately old potstill in a large snifter after dinner, while du Toit prefers having her favourite brandies neat, or with a block or two of ice during the hot Paarl summers. The fact that brandy can be enjoyed in such a range of ways is exciting for the future of this unique product. It truly is South African sunshine in a glass. Brandy is back in a big way, and has become the sexy drink for all ages and occasions. Pass the bottle!

TA S T I N G |

BRANDY

REVIVAL OF A

NATIONAL TREASURE

SOUTH AFRICAN BRANDY HAS HAD A TOUGH TIME OVER THE PAST DECADE. SALES DECLINED DRAMATICALLY BUT HAVE TURNED AROUND WITH THE GRAPH ON AN UPWARD CURVE, SHOWING 20% YEAR-ON-YEAR GROWTH. CHEERS MAGAZINE’S INFORMAL TASTING SHOWS WHY CONSUMERS ARE FALLING IN LOVE AGAIN. TASTING PANEL:DR WINNIE BOWMAN CWM, EMILE JOUBER T, SHAYNE DOWLING, FI ONA MC DONA LD

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t all began with some trepidation – and ended with glowing praise... and a bit of a whinge! “Locals don’t realise just how good South African brandy is – especially at the entry level,” said brandy expert, Cape Wine Master and panel wrangler Dr Winnie Bowman once the tasting was done. (That was her gentle whinge!) She judges on international panels and bemoans the overall quality of brandy from other nations. “Around 80 to 90% of the entry level brandies we assess at overseas competitions

don’t measure up to the average standard of any brandy you could buy off the shelf locally. South African brandy is good, people!” The country’s best examples from Distell and the KWV regularly shoot the lights out at international competitions but consumers are possibly not aware of how this affects the less premium products on TOPS at SPAR shelves nationwide. Yes, the best barrels are set aside for these ultra-premium bottlings but it means that what trickles down and is blended into the larger volume labels raises

the average standard overall. The ﬁrst point to be made is that these humble brandies which are so often maligned as mere companions to cola for a weekend football or rugby match all contain a minimum of 30% potstilled brandy and will all have been aged for a minimum of three years in oak barrels. That’s a big investment on the part of producers in time and money. “It upsets me that we don’t celebrate these products more!” Dr Bowman said. Having tasted through the lineup all agreed that this had been a really pleasant and worthwhile experience – something which had not been anticipated. “I think we all approached this with a bit of scepticism because of the brands lined up in front of us,” Fiona said, “but I was genuinely pleasantly surprised at the overall quality of all of them.” Fellow taster Emile Joubert, a columnist for CHEERS, knows brandy well having spent time marketing the product with the Brandy Foundation. He said producers should never underestimate how well consumers know their particular favourite. “I’m going back 10 years or more but I remember the Brandy Foundation would get irate telephone calls from guys in the Eastern Cape saying

that this Olof Bergh or Oude Meester wasn’t up to scratch. And when the boffins tracked back they’d ﬁnd that a mistake had been made in the blending – and the customer was right!” Joining Joubert, Bowman and Fiona McDonald in the assessment was CHEERS publisher Shayne Dowling. He noted how smooth textured the various bottles tasted were. “They drink incredibly well on their own and I’d happily have any of these neat with just a block of ice.” One of the most interesting parts of the discussion centred around the look and feel of the packaging – not so much the labels as the bottle shapes and the immediate perceptions associated with them. Two products stood out because they had a “classy” appearance while another suffered from being in a ﬂat “nip” style bottle. “It would be interesting to hear the market research behind the decision to go that route,” Shayne said. So the nett result is that consumers need not feel any cultural cringe or twinges of embarrassment when stocking up on a bottle of brannas at the weekend. These examples are all winners! (And also taste really lekker with cola – or ginger ale ... and rugby or soccer.)

PANEL CHOICE RICHELIEU >

“Remove the string at your peril!” Emile said it had been tried in the past and the market protested loudly. Winnie said it was liking greeting an old friend. Complex, smooth, familiar with lovely ripe peach fruit, citrus peel and marmalade and even a hint of rum n raisin too. Balanced and rich. “I’d drink this on its own,” said Shayne.

EDITOR’S CHOICE < KWV 5 YEAR OLD

“Gorgeous flavour!” was Winnie’s opinion. Smooth, silky, complex and understated with refined dried fruit, good harmony and length. Conversely Shayne found it almost too refined and elegant. “I prefer a bit more edginess,” he said. Harmonious and well crafted Emile stated.

< MELLOW WOOD 5 YEAR OLD Rich, raisined and with oodles of appeal, along with a shy smokiness and caramel. Both Fiona and Shayne noted a delicate ﬂorality and ‘lucky packet sweetie’ nuance on the nose. Subtle and charming Winnie said. Appropriately mellow and woody in character.

WELLINGTON VO >

Spirit was noticeable with a raisined/fruity note and a lingering sensation of ripe sweetness. “In a brandy context – satisfying,” said Emile.

< OUDE MOLEN 100 RESERVE

Tasty with spice highlights and even a touch of dried herbs, Fiona found. Good caramel ﬂavour with a strong dry oak element. The packaging of this bottle came in for special mention with the panel liking its quality and feel.

OUDE MEESTER >

Choc-dipped fruits, spice and white pepper with bold apricot and even a note of crème brûlée picked up on this ﬂavour packed mouthful. Touch of leather with a warm spirit note too. And positive comments about the packaging too.

“They drink incredibly well on their own and I’d happily have any of these neat.” < VICEROY 5 YEAR OLD Rounded, smooth, sun-dried apricot and peach ﬂavours with a touch of pear drop fruitiness Winnie said. Shayne liked its complexity and Fiona noted its burnished brass and leathery appeal. Flat bottle shape discussed.

KLIPDRIFT >

Appealing maple syrup ﬂavour with waxy caramel and buttery richness on the palate. While Emile found it a touch sweet he appreciated its spicy rounded fullness and length. “Very satisfying and will work well with a mixer.” J U L / AU G 2 0 1 9

PERFECT SERVE

LENNON’S FAVOURITE ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST RENOWNED MUSICIANS, JOHN LENNON IS KNOWN TO HAVE LOVED THE BRANDY ALEXANDER. IMAGINE.

“When you did something beautiful and nobody noticed, don’t be sad. For the sun, every morning is a beautiful spectacle and yet most of the audience still sleeps.” – John Lennon

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ust imagine what contribution John Lennon could have continued to make to the world of music had he not been shot in the back four times by Mark David Chapman in December 1980. The long-haired lad from Liverpool would have turned 79 this year. Chances are that many readers of this piece have the gentle strains of the iconic tune ‘Imagine’ running through their heads right now! (“Imagine there’s no countries, it isn’t hard to do... Imagine all the people, living life in peace...”) It was the best-selling track of his solo career and remains one of the most performed songs of all time because of its melodic ease and anthemic sentiment. It reached number one on the charts both at the time of release in 1971 – and then again nine years later after his assassination. It’s played in New York’s Times Square just before midnight and the annual ball drop marking the start of a New Year. So what does Lennon have to do with a cocktail? Well, the Brandy Alexander was known to be his favourite. It’s also believed to have played a not insigniﬁcant role in his infamous “Lost Weekend” in 1974 when he was unceremoniously ejected from the Troubadour Club in Los Angeles West Hollywood for heckling the Smothers Brothers. (In an utterly useless aside, the Troubadour Club is also where comedian Lenny Bruce was arrested on obscenity charges in

1962 for using the term “schmuck” onstage! How times – and standup comedians – have changed...) The story goes that he was introduced to the Brandy Alexander while with his friend Harry Nilssen and, while at the Troubadour and heckling the band, Lennon was involved in an altercation with the waitress. He later said the drink “tasted like milkshakes”. He was right – but milkshakes for grown ups. The Brandy Alexander is actually a reﬁnement of the original gin-based cocktail which was simply known as the Alexander. It was one part gin, one part crème de cacao and one part cream, dusted with a sprinkle of nutmeg. Believed to have originated in the 1920’s the name of it is variously attributed to either the Russian tsar Alexander II or to the prominent drama critic of the day (and member of the Algonquin Round Table, a group of New York wits, critics and writers) Alexander Woollcott. (Woollcott, “known to have a savage tongue” Wikipedia states, wrote for the New Yorker and at one stage was banned from covering Broadway plays because his reviews were so hard-hitting and ascerbic!) And it was important that the crème de cacao used in the making of the cocktail was the clear version of the chocolate liqueur rather than the darker hued

one. Interestingly, Wikipedia informs that “The French word ‘crème’ refers to the creamy texture of this very sweet liqueur, achieved by having a sugar content of at least 250 g/l as required by European law, and there is no dairy cream in it.” It’s a liqueur that has been around since the 1600s and historic records reﬂect that before the American Revolution in the 1700s, New Englanders were quite partial to “chocolate wine” made from sherry, port, chocolate and sugar! Crème de cacao can be either clear or dark-hued – depending on the addition of colour, but essentially it is a clear spirit infused with cacao beans or chocolate ﬂavour as well as very sweet syrup. So the Brandy Alexander simply substitutes brandy for the gin component of the cocktail. It’s truly tasty and is easy to see why Lennon said it was like milkshakes. There are a host of great quotes attributed to the Beatles singer and songwriter. Like this one: “When you did something beautiful and nobody noticed, don’t be sad. For the sun, every morning is a beautiful spectacle and yet most of the audience still sleeps.” Just imagine if he’d made more music...

BRANDY ALEXANDER

1 part Brandy 1 part Crème de cacao 1 part fresh cream

Shake and strain into a chilled cocktail glass of your choice. Sprinkle with fresh ground or grated nutmeg.

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INTERNAL COMBUSTION HUNKERING DOWN BENEATH A BLANKET, ZIPPING UP IN A ONESIE OR PLACING YOUR SLIPPERED FEET A LITTLE CLOSER TO THE HEATER OR FIRE IS PERFECTLY ACCEPTABLE DURING THE COLD SEASON. BUT THEREâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S AN ALTOGETHER MORE PLEASANT WAY TO PASS THE COLD MONTHS ...

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| WA R M B O O Z Y D R I N KS

ishermen have long been known to enjoy a little nip of Old Brown, its sweet, nutty sherried flavour helping to ward off the chills while out on the rocks, beach or lakeside. And many is the spectator at a winter rugby match who might take a short pull on a whisky or brandy-filled hipflask. Or the early morning game drive where the sun peeking over a flat-topped Acacia thorn tree isn’t enough to warm the cockles of the heart – so a splash of Amarula or Wild Africa cream in a mug of coffee does the job. These little alcoholic comforts might make one feel a little warmer but, truth be told, they aren’t really helping. Medical science shows that drinking alcohol to keep warm is the exact opposite of what anyone should do when chilled! Alcohol is a vasodilator, opening up your blood vessels and making blood rush to your extremities – which explains why people feel warmer because their skin warms up, becoming flushed and slightly red faced after one or two drinks. But this removes blood from the body’s core, causing their temperature to drop. Furthermore, this vasodilatory effect also stops the body from shivering and getting the chills – which is the body’s way of preserving itself by keeping heat in its core, specifically the heart and other vital organs.

The term ‘hot drinks’ makes people think of things like coffee, tea or possibly hot chocolate. But in CHEERS magazine you know there’s going to be a bit more of a spirited angle to it all! There are a few hot drinks most people would associate with alcohol; glühwein would be one of the first named, and Irish coffee would also be up there – as would the hot toddy although it is most often consumed to ward off flu and colds.

Whether it is winebased glühwein or a honey-sweetened hot toddy [inset] with whisky or brandy, these hot drinks are ideal fireside compatriots.

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WA R M B O O Z Y D R I N KS |

HOT BUTTERED RUM 100ml rum 200ml water 25g butter 1 orange, zested and juiced 4 cloves 1 star anise 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp maple or golden syrup Heat all the ingredients in a pan until hot but not boiling, while stirring. Let it sit for a few minutes, then strain into glasses or mugs. (It can also be poured into a flask in order to keep it hot.)

Wikipedia reliably informs that the hot toddy is a mixture of liquor and hot water with honey and/or spices, traditionally served hot. Locally, South Africans tend to make it with a good squeeze of lemon juice, hot water, honey and either whisky or brandy. A twist of lemon peel or even a shaving or two of ginger can be added. The honey soothes the throat, the lemon juice brings the flu and cold fighting vitamin C to the party while ginger is known to reduce muscle pain and aches. The hot water and whisky or brandy add the heat and lingering warm glow. Glühwein or mulled wine has been around for centuries and is reliably thought to have had its origin 28 w w w .t o p s a t s p a r. c o . z a

in Roman times. With the Roman legions conquering Helvetia, Gaul and even the island the Anglo-Saxons called home, their practice of heating wine and adding spices became well established and adopted by many of the oppressed nations. There is even a medieval recipe book dating back to 1390 which details the spices to be used for mulled wine: cinnamon, ginger, cloves, nutmeg, long pepper, marjoram, cardamom and galangal – along with sugar and red wine. It’s a drink for cold weather and many is the tourist visiting Austria, Germany or Alsace in France in the runup to Christmas who has returned home with one or two of the cheery mugs which glühwein is served in at the many festive markets. One of the best known is held annually in front of Vienna's Rathaus on the large cobbled square dotted with market stalls selling a variety of seasonal fare. The Irish coffee is believed to have originated around the early 1940’s. It’s said that a chef at the Foynes airbase

flying boat terminal in County Limerick added a healthy glug of the Emerald Isle’s favourite spirit to coffee before topping it all off with cream. One of those passengers stranded by the inclement weather is believed to have taken the concept back to the United States where the Buena Vista Cafe in San Francisco became famous for it in the early 1950’s. However, an alternate version has it that one Joseph Jackson of Jackson’s hotel in County Donegal, Ireland, would make the Irish coffee to keep his fellow soldiers lively and alert while fighting the Germans during World War II. Something seldom seen in South Africa is hot buttered rum, a drink which apparently signals the winter holiday period in the United States, starting with Thanksgiving in mid-November. Thanks to both Google and Wikipedia we know that in the mid-19th century a bartender called Jerry Thomas noted two recipes for this drink in the Bon-vivant’s Companion or How to Mix Drinks. The first was called Hot Spiced Rum while the second was simply Hot Rum.

HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN GLÜHWEIN: For every 500ml of red wine, allow one large cup of water, sugar and spice to personal taste. So for a 750ml bottle of red wine, a cup-and-a-half of water and sugar would be needed. Spices most commonly used include star anise, cinnamon quills, cloves and nutmeg along with strips of orange or lemon zest. Cardamom and ginger can also be used, depending on personal preference. The delightfully quaint Mrs Beeton’s Book of Household Management recommends boiling the spice in the water in order to infuse it with the spicy flavour before adding the sugar and wine. Bring the mixture to the boil and then turn off the heat. The glühwein should be served piping hot – but not boiling!

Traditionally the drink is mixed with rum, butter, cider or hot water and a variety of aromatic spice – most often cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves. In Thomas’ first drink all of the above appear while in his Hot Rum recipe the spices are left out – barring a sprinkling of nutmeg which is grated over the top of the drink. In a nod to World Chocolate Day which is celebrated on July 7 South African liquor giant Distell commissioned local cocktail specialist Owen O’Reilly to create a winter cocktail or two. One recipe he developed is called the Van Ryn’s Pumpkin Chocolate Pie (published here) – and anyone brave enough to try making it will undoubtedly be surprised at how good roasted pumpkin can taste in boozy liquid form. But then again, just a mug of hot coffee or cocoa with a shot of your favourite liqueur (Tia Maria, Kahlua, King’s Ginger, Creme de Cacao, Amarula ...) and a dollop of cream, enjoyed by the fireside ticks all the boxes for a boozy hot drink.

VAN RYN’S PUMPKIN CHOCOLATE PIE Ingredients: 50 ml Van Ryn’s 10 Year Old Vintage Brandy 35 ml pumpkin puree* 2 heaped teaspoons Hot Chocolate Top with boiling water ( leave space for cream) Whipped cream Preparation: 1 Build all ingredients in a serving vessel. Pour brandy and pumpkin puree into mug/glass. Add the hot chocolate and stir to a paste, add boiling water and stir briskly. 2 Top with whipped cream and garnish with pumpkin puree and a sprinkle of cinnamon. Serve with a dessert spoon. *Pumpkin puree: 1 Use any dessert pumpkin (butternut works well). Cut pumpkin in four, remove seeds and place on a baking tray. Sprinkle with pumpkin pie spice (a mix of cinnamon, nutmeg, all spice, cloves and dried ginger) and bake at 200°C for an hour or until pumpkin is soft to the touch. 2 While baking, make a spiced syrup: 300ml water with 200g sugar and 2 heaped teaspoons pumpkin pie spice on the stove top. Bring to the boil while stirring and simmer for 10 minutes. 3 Add chunks of baked pumpkin (skin removed) to a blender or food processor and add the spiced syrup. Blend until smooth and strain through a fine strainer. Add a little water if the puree is too thick. Use immediately or store in fridge for up to three days.

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LIFESTYLE |

LEISURE PURSUITS

GETTING

CARDED

IN THE UNITED STATES, GETTING ‘CARDED’ MEANS BEING ASKED FOR YOUR IDENTIFICATION TO PROVE THAT YOU ARE OVER 21, THE LEGAL DRINKING AGE. IN AFRICA, THE UNTAMED CONTINENT WHERE LIFE AROSE MILLENNIA AGO, GERRIT RAUTENBACH WRITES ABOUT AN ALTOGETHER WILDER EXPERIENCE.

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ard. It’s one of those odd words in English which can mean different things depending on the context. Even replicating the full entry in the (concise!) Oxford English dictionary would take up too much space but it can be a piece of “thick, stiff paper”, a piece of card for writing on – a postcard or greeting card, business card, a scorecard, playing cards used for games, a person regarded as amusing or funny or a rectangular piece of plastic with machine-readable data – such as a credit card. It also means to prepare wool for weaving by means of a special toothed comb… And that’s before getting into the expressions. But rather than holding all the cards, close to the chest or otherwise, it’s best to not keep a card up one’s sleeve but to play the cards right. And although that sentence alone is worthy of being shown a yellow or even red card and being sent off at the use of all these silly examples, I should play my last card… the Wild Card. The winter holidays are almost here and everyone could do with a break to get back on track and to recharge the batteries. There’s always someone who has either left things too late and not booked a holiday or weekend getaway at least six months in advance. But spontaneity can also be good – so long as you find accommodation somewhere…

ABOVE: Picture postcard perfect... an African tusker in the wild against the setting sun. BELOW: Over millennia, the Orange River – also known as the Gariep, has carved out this waterfall at Augrabies as it meanders its way from Lesotho to Alexander Bay on the Atlantic Ocean.

And that’s where the Wild Card comes in. It can save individuals and families a heap of cash. Everyone is feeling the pinch with the petrol price and food prices having risen alarmingly this year so stretching the Randelas a little is welcome news. Most people believe the Wild Card is a privilege to help them get into anyone of the 21 South African National Parks. That’s partly true –the Wild Card was originally designed as a National Parks aid – but the card has evolved far beyond that. In fact, nowadays Wild is actually wilder. We’ll get to that shortly, including some suggestions on how the Wild Card can still help provide a great contribution to your winter break. From a full-on trip to just a day out in the wild. But wherever you are, it’s worthwhile reviewing the many SanParks options. A gem in the crown like the Kruger National Park is almost guaranteed to be jam packed in June and July, but SanParks offer, apart from the Kruger, another 20 alternatives. They are literally scattered all over the country in an A to Z of options, from Addo and Augrabies to the

(Mountain) Zebra Park. Not only are there geographical alternatives, but a variety of visiting options, from day outings to camping or even chalet accommodation if roughing it is not for you. What many people are not aware of, however, is that apart from these 21 SanPark choices, the Wild Card offers another 60 destinations via the following associated conservation organisations: CapeNature; Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife; Msinsi Resorts and Game Reserves and Big Game Parks of Eswatini – which opens up a world of possibilities. From Assegaaibosch all the way up to Lambert’s Bay, the Cederberg Wilderness area to the vast Karoo, down to Knysna and Plettenberg Bay, it’s possible to gain free entry into over 24 breathtaking locations, all within easy access around the Western Cape for a memorable day outing. It is arguably possible to do a park a day for three weeks! If you live in the Western Cape, that is. But even for those who don’t live in the wine country, Wild Card opens up a host of opportunities elsewhere. J U L / AU G 2 0 1 9

LIFESTYLE |

LEISURE PURSUITS

EZEMVELO KZN WILDLIFE Should the Kingdom of the Zulu be the province which is called home, potential holidaymakers are spoiled for choice because Ezemvelo KZN tops the log with 25 destinations of their own. Some are situated in the wicked (and wild) Drakensberg – offering day outings to multiple sleep-over hiking and mountain biking trips, from Cathedral Peak to Giants Castle. And more. If hiking or camping is not your buzz, there’s always trout fishing, bushman rock paintings and jaw-dropping natural beauty. Others are in some of the best game areas of this neck of the woods, from Ithala and Hluhluwe-Imfolozi to Ndumo, to name but a few . Then there’s the coast, the wild, wild coast and wetlands of Zululand, offering a host of adventures, involving the bush, sea and coastlines. From game viewing (by foot or 4x4), bird watching to game fishing. And remember, in this side of our country, it is always kind of summer, no matter how cold it gets in Sutherland or how wet in the Cape. Just lying soaking up Vitamin D on some special beach is always an option in this type of winter. MSINSI RESORTS AND GAME RESERVES If anything to do with inland water, from fishing to skiing floats the boat, then Msinsi Holdings has five beautiful reserves and resorts to offer you. Situated around some of the largest and most picturesque dams in KZN, only 30 minutes from either Durban or Pietermaritzburg, they are all awesome places for great daytrips or more. There are a number of activities and different forms of accommodation to suit a variety of holiday needs.

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ABOVE: Sandstone outcrops make the foothills of the Barrier of Spears, the Drakensberg, so special and distinctive. BELOW:Albert Falls, Nagle Dam and Shongweni are just three of the attractions available through the Msinsi resorts connection.

THE KINGDOM OF ESWATINI’S BIG GAME PARKS Mickey Reilly was an Irish soldier that came to Africa and instantly fell in love with it. Furthermore his friendship with the late King Sobhuza II of Eswatini, as well as their mutual passion for conservation, was the beginning of a great dream. Today the Reilly family are still leading conservationists in Eswatini. Ted Reilly, second generation, is the personal conservation adviser to Swazi King Mswati III. More than half a century ago a young Ted began to establish Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary. “It’s a beautiful, but impossible dream,” he said at first but through passion, hard work and perseverance, he, together with the Swazi monarchy, made the dream a reality. Today Mlilwane is one of Eswatini’s Big Six. The others are Hlane Royal National Park, Mkhaya Game Reserve, Reilly’s Rock Hilltop Lodge, Sondzela Backpackers and Chubeka Trails. As these names suggest, Big Game Parks offer a wide variety of holiday options, from luxury lodging to backpacking and

adventure trailing. All you need is a Wild Card and a valid passport (no visa required) and off you go. So, if you don’t want to stay home and do nothing this winter, the Wild Card offers more than 80 possibilities countrywide. And while the “Wild” in Wild Card mostly refers to the animals, it’s feasible to be seriously tranquil with this particular card – or as adventurous as possible. A cursory glance at the options available online at www.wildcard. co.za show that an individual membership costs R640 while a family of up to seven can expect to pay R1 290. All the various options are explained. For that fee it’s possible to gain entrance to any of over 80 places nationwide. When you consider that a single entry to somewhere like the Kruger Park is R300 once off, the investment more than justifies itself. There are additional benefits too – a regular online magazine with great offers, sightings, stories of other folks’ experiences and suggestions of places to go and things to do. So why not take a walk on the wild side?

THE SECRET INGREDIENT WE ALREADY KNOW THAT BEER’S NOT ONLY GOOD IN A BOTTLE, BUT THERE ARE MORE WAYS TO USE IT IN FOOD THAN FRIED FISH BATTER, WRITES CLIFFORD ROBERTS.

The ingredient which gives beer its oth and bubble – carbon dioxide – is a great element in a batter for fish or onion rings.

arousse Gastronomique is billed as “the World’s greatest culinary encyclopaedia” and it stretches to beyond 1 350 pages in the current edition. It’s a weighty tome – both in volume and in content and is a virtual food bible to all devotees of matters gastronomic. It still contains editorial which nowadays could be deemed politically incorrect since the world – and diners – have moved on, finding turtle soup and delicate songbirds (ortolan) morally reprehensible. It notes that in the 15th century salt cod was worthy of the finest tables while fresh sturgeon, cod and dolphin were reserved for the king. (Note that it doesn’t specify if this is indeed the dolphin – like Flipper of the TV series fame – or mahi-mahi or dorado which is called dolphin in Hawaii and Spain respectively. Apparently the confusion is because of the latter’s early scientific classification as being part of the dolphin genus.) Of course, salt cod swiftly became the food of all people because of its ability to keep rather than spoil in the days before refrigeration. And then this culinary bon mot (some might add, of course): “Frog-meat, which is no more than a tit-bit, is nevertheless easily digestible”. The section on frogs, covering several preparations over a page-long, goes on to describe the preparation of more than just the legs, in riveting detail. Strangely, beer as an ingredient is woefully neglected. The book acknowledges “[beer]

EDIBLE

BEER

is a refreshingly and slightly stimulating drink that has food value,” but lists only one food-related dish: beer soup, with a parenthesis indicating “German cookery”. Dilute ½ cup (150g) of light roux made of butter and flour with 1 ½ quarts (litres) of light beer. Mix well. Season with salt and pepper. Add 2 teaspoons (12g) of fine sugar and a very small pinch of powdered cinnamon, bring to the boil, then simmer for 25 minutes. Just before serving, thicken with 1 cup (2 decilitres) of double cream. Pour boiling into a soup tureen, over thin slices of toast. It’s probably true though: famous beer foods that jump to mind generally won’t be those to hail from France. Think of steaming beef pies made with stout (Guinness, especially); stews with the same, like Flemish karbonade; and, chocolate desserts like brownies and ganache. Forgotten the yeast for surprise bread-baking on your camping trip? Chuck in a can of lager instead. Then there was the craze of the lager chicken braaied slow and propped straight up over a half-can of beer. And what about good old beer-battered fish-and-chips? The serious folks at Scientific American write that “beer makes such a great base for batter because it simultaneously adds three ingredients—carbon dioxide, foaming agents and alcohol—each of which brings to bear different aspects of physics and chemistry to make the crust light and crisp.” The CO² helps spread the batter mix and contributes to the texture; the foaming agents assist with insulation and lend the gold-brown colour; and, the alcohol moderates the internal temperature and crisping the crust. Now you know. Still, many breweries with restaurants seemingly remain on the side-lines when it comes to beer-in-food. When asked, some choose to dip in, but only ever so slightly. The bistro at Devil’s Peak only currently offers olives in IPA with lemon, rosemary, garlic; and, beer-battered onion rings. J U L / AU G 2 0 1 9

BEER |

EDIBLE

“Beer makes such a great base for batter because it simultaneously adds three ingredients—carbon dioxide, foaming agents and alcohol—each of which brings to bear different aspects of physics and chemistry.”

Gauteng’s Hogshead brew pub has beer-battered peppadews filled with feta, mozzarella and blue cheese. Darling Brew has come up with a way to use spent grain from its Slow Beer and Bone Crusher – beer grain crisps. Wesley Hurn at Hoghouse Brewing Company in Cape Town says that half-way through the smoking process of their short rib, a liquid marinade that contains its Porter Draught is added. “The beer steams into the meat adding a beautiful and rich flavour. “We use our pilsner draught as the liquid ingredient for our onion ring batter … [and] a very small amount of our African Pale Ale draught in our house-made BBQ sauce. We occasionally make a beer bread where we use beer as a substitute to water when mixing our dough. “This adds a lovely malt flavour to the bread,” he says, adding the admission that they haven’t been too adventurous with “weird and wonderful” combinations. Mad Giant brewmaster Eben 36 w w w .t o p s a t s p a r. c o . z a

Uys reckons he hasn’t tasted anything to convince him beer as an ingredient can improve a dish. He prefers his beer in a glass and is only too happy to pair it with food. “You just lose a lot of good flavours of beer when you cook with it.” Now the gang on the foodie side of the fence – like Karl Tessendorf and Greg Gilowey, authors of the just-released BEER FOOD FIRE (Penguin Random House SA) – will disagree. The pair were finalists in television’s Ultimate Braai Master 2011/2 and now host Beer Country, their own show. “There are many ways to play with beer,” their chapter on cooking with brew begins. “Half the fun is exploring new, tasty ideas and seeing what happens. Think about beer styles and their characteristics, and match their intensities to the dish you’re trying to create.” What follows are nifty guides that include: Beer salts to finish a dish, like weiss, lemon and thyme, that involves basically reducing the

beer to a sticky liquid, mixing in your ingredients and drying it out in the oven; Beer butters, that can be used on all kinds of dishes from meat to pancakes; and Beer mayo, beer BBQ sauce, beer mustard and beer (and bacon) jam. Not all the recipes in the book contain beer, but there are several great examples (see recipes with this article). Ultimately, the trick is not to think of beer as a single ingredient, but many. Each individual style in the diverse field of beer, and even within sub-categories, is what you have available to cook with. You’ll encounter everything across the bitter spectrum; floral to herbal, spicy to fruity; acidic or bubbly; high and low in alcohol and beers that have a viscosity higher than sherry. Any chef will tell you, the rest is about experimentation: linking flavours and textures, even when it seems counter-intuitive. Sometimes direct opposites attract. Go on: play. It’s only beer, not a critically endangered species..

WINEMAKING

AMBER ALE STICKY LAMB SHANKS By Wild Clover Brewer, Stellenbosch Feeds 4: Prep 1 hour: Cook 3 hours 10 minutes. 4 free-range lamb shanks A glug of oil for basting Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 6 whole garlic cloves, crushed 6 sprigs of fresh rosemary, roughly chopped The Beer Barbecue Basting: A glug of oil for frying ¼ C finely chopped onion 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 C tomato sauce 1 C amber ale 5 Tbsp. honey 5 Tbsp. dark soy sauce 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper 1 tsp paprika 1 Preheat the oven to 160°C. Coat the shanks with oil and season generously with sea salt and freshly ground pepper. PIace the shanks into a roasting dish and scatter the garlic and rosemary in the dish. Cover with foil and bake for 3 hours or until fork tender. The shanks will be finished on the braai, so they shouldn’t be fall-apart tender at this stage. When the shanks are done, remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly. 2 To make the basting, heat the oil in a medium-sized pot over medium heat, and fry the onion until golden brown. Add the garlic and cook for another minute until fragrant. Add the rest of the ingredients and stir to combine. Reduce to a low heat, simmer and stir occasionally to combine the flavours. Continue to simmer until the sauce has reduced to a semi-thick consistency. Remove from the heat and set aside until it’s time to braai. 3 Baste the shanks generously with basting sauce and braai over medium heat coals for around 10 minutes, turning

WINE

frequently. Remember to baste with every turn and be careful when handling the meat because it is already cooked through so it will be soft. Serve your sticky lamb lollipops with a cold brew and tuck in.

REAL HOT CHOCOLATE WITH STOUT Feeds: 4-6 • Prep: 10 minutes. Cook: 10 minutes 1 C double cream 1/4 C full-cream milk 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon 2 tsp brown sugar 1/2 tsp vanilla essence 150 g Lindt 70% dark chocolate, finely chopped 1 C stout A small handful of salted cashews, crushed A pinch of dried crushed chillies A pinch of sea salt In a medium-sized pot over medium heat, add the cream, milk, cinnamon, sugar and vanilla. Whisk to combine and when it starts to get warm, add the chocolate. Continue whisking as the chocolate melts. Once completely combined, add the stout. Continue whisking slowly until the mixture just begins to boil, then remove from the heat. Add some crushed nuts to the bottom of your glasses/mugs, then pour in the hot chocolate. Add another dash of cream if you like, top with a sprinkle of crushed chillies and salt, then bask in the glory of real hot chocolate.

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HOT BITES THINKING & DRINKING ISLAND STYLE George Hunter is a Johannesburg-based barman who is rapidly making a name for himself locally and internationally, having won the Absolut Invite Team Edition in 2018 as well as the local Angostura Global Cocktail Challenge the same year. Not only did he and drink-slinging partner Cameron Henning get to travel to Mexico to compete but the duo have received recognition for their upliftment initiative, encouraging Gauteng locals to grow herbs, vegetables and items needed in their cocktail bar. A savvy entrepreneur who gave up a boring job in an electrical wholesaler to tend bar Hunter never envisioned his life taking the turn it has. He not only works as the bar manager for Joburg’s Marble and Saint restaurants he also owns cocktail equipment supplier Copper Monkey and Anvil Ice, the latter gig supplying unique ice designs to bars and restaurants. As the Angostura brand trainer he encourages people to be more adventurous in their use of the world-renowned bitters. Here are two cocktails created for them.

HURRICANE

50ml rum 25ml orange juice 25ml pineapple juice 25ml passionfruit syrup 15ml lime juice 10ml grenadine Ice

Angostura aromatic bitters Shake all ingredients except the Angostura aromatic bitters. Add ice to highball glass and strain mix over ice. Float Angostura aromatic bitters on top to taste. Garnish with orange slice, pineapple leaves and an edible ﬂower. CUBA LIBRE

50ml rum Angostura ice cubes 2 lime wedges Coca-Cola

Muddle lime wedges in a highball glass and build with Angostura ice cubes and rum, topped off with Coca-Cola.

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BOWLED OVER High on the mountain slopes behind Cape Town’s iconic Table Mountain is Constantia Glen which boasts some of the most jaw-dropping vistas in the winelands. Because of this it’s a popular haunt with visitors who take time to relax and chill with a glass of wine and one of the wine farm’s signature cheese or charcuterie platters. But Constantia Glen has taken their offering up a notch with exciting new comfort food Winter will be a hearty one as a selection of delicious homemade soups and more substantial dishes are added to those on offer at the tasting room. Available as single servings or as a trio of smaller portions, visitors can indulge in Constantia Glen’s famous traditional Austrian beef goulash served with Spätzle, French onion soup with croûte au fromage, and delicious potato and leek soup. Both soups are served with crispy, freshly baked bread. Each of these winter warmers can be partnered perfectly with Constantia Glen’s elegant wines. Add an additional mouth-watering platter of artisanal cheese and charcuterie to your experience and enjoy the wonderful winter vineyard views. The soups are available at R95 and the Austrian beef goulash at R130 per person. Constantia Glen’s winter menu also surprises with slow cooked pulled lamb served with potato gratin, wild mushrooms and green beans available at R250 per person. Another new addition is the grilled chicken paillard served with watercress, rosa tomatoes and parmesan, available at only R110 per single serving. The tasting room is open at 11h00 to 18h00 from Sunday to Thursday and 11h00 to 20h00 from Friday to Saturday. In order to avoid disappointment, bookings are highly recommended: do so via the website www.constantiaglen.com or call 021-7955639 or e-mail reservations@constantiaglen.com.

CHENIN AND CURRY Spier wine farm is one of the most eco-friendly of South Africa’s grape and wine producers. Zero waste is a goal that all its staff and employees live by, water is recycled in cuttingedge ponds and reed beds. It offers visitors art, theatre performances, unique segway tours, conference facilities but most of all, unparalleled food and wine tastings with more than one restaurant on the property just outside Stellenbosch. Their farm-to-table ethos sees free-range chicken and pork served alongside a multitude of homegrown veggies. But in winter, the stomach and soul craves more hearty sustenance – and this prawn curry brings the requisite heat. Spier’s award-winning 21 Gables Chenin Blanc is the recommended wine to serve alongside.

CAPE MALAY-STYLE PRAWN CURRY

The great thing about a seafood curry is that it cooks in much less time than a meaty curry. This simple, fragrant prawn dish is slightly sweet and deliciously mild (add a dash of chilli powder if you like yours hotter). It also works very well with fresh black mussels or cubed firm white fish. Enjoy with a glass of Spier 21 Gables Chenin Blanc. Note: This recipe is made with trimmed, shelled prawn tails. Although these are easy to eat, whole prawns (de-veined, head on) will add even more flavour. If you don’t mind the shells or eating with your hands, choose them instead (about 1kg).

(serves 4) Ingredients: 30ml vegetable oil 1 onion, chopped 3 cloves garlic, grated or finely chopped 1 knob fresh ginger, grated or finely chopped 15ml roasted masala curry powder (or medium/ mild curry powder) 5ml ground cumin 5ml ground turmeric 1 x 400ml can coconut milk 5ml sugar About 500g prawn tails, shelled and de-veined (see note above) Salt and pepper to taste Fresh coriander leaves to serve Cooked basmati or jasmine rice to serve Method: 1 In a wide, deep pan or pot, add the oil and fry the onions until soft and lightly browned. Add the garlic and ginger and fry for 30 seconds, then add the masala, cumin and turmeric and stir for a minute until the bottom of the pan goes dry. 2 Add the coconut milk, sugar and prawns, stir and bring to a simmer. Cover with a lid and simmer for 5 to 8 minutes until the prawns are just cooked. 3 Remove from the heat, season generously with salt and pepper. Serve hot in bowls over rice, topped with fresh coriander.

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ALTERNATIVE FLAVOURS Did you know that women’s sense of smell and taste is more highly tuned than that of men? Autopsies by researchers at the Institute of biomedical sciences in Brazil found that the olfactory bulb in female brains was served by 43% more brain cells and around 50% more neurons than in men – so women can detect, analyse and identify more smells and flavours than men. Bitterness is something which sets supertasters apart from others – or a sensitivity to bitterness. But bitterness is also becoming a big element of flavour in both food and drink circles. Bartenders and cocktail mixologists are making up their own unique versions. All bitters differ slightly in their sweet, citrus and spice characteristics but for centuries Angostura aromatic bitters have been found to be the perfect balance of all three with no one aroma descriptor dominating its flavour. Bitters are made by steeping botanicals such as gentian root, cinchona bark, cassia, clove, cardamom, allspice, ginger, herbs, fruit peels and dried flowers in high-proof alcohol. The alcohol works to extract flavours but because it’s used by the dash, the’alcohol’ percentage ends up being negligible when added to food and drinks; it also serves as a preservative, meaning a bottle of Angostura aromatic bitters could last for up to five years, if not longer, if kept out of direct sunlight. Not at all bitter when added to food or drinks, Angostura aromatic bitters adds that extra depth of flavour that intensifies

the characteristics of other ingredients and enhances taste through smell – kind of like using salt and pepper in the kitchen. With bitters, non-alcoholic cocktails become crisper, the top notes of light cocktails are enhanced, the aged notes in heavy rums and whiskies are softened, the acidity in citrus-based cocktails is pacified, it marries well with gin and vermouth, and adds depth to creamy creations. Aromatic bitters typically pair well with the botanicals used to produce it. Essentially though, there are four approaches to pairing it with different flavour profiles, said drinks consultant Denzel Heath. “Firstly, matching botanicals is a no-brainer – for example, where you have orange zest in the bitters it pairs well with citrus. Our go-to botanical pairings are all types of citrus, spices like allspice and pimento.” Complimentary flavours also made for good pairings, Heath said. Aromatic bitters is heavy in cardamom, clove and orange zest and would thus work well with mint. His third tip was to “think ‘balance’ – where you’d need to steady the acidity of citrus or hibiscus-based drinks. And lastly, be creative and try something new…” Aromatic bitters is quite a strong flavour and very capable of over powering other ingredients, but in the right amounts it can elevate the flavours in just about anything. “You’ll be surprised,” Heath said, “you can even add it to chocolate and coffee”. For more information on Angostura bitters and cocktail recipes visit www.angosturabitters.com.

Matching inspiration

Creamy inspiration

Complimentary inspiration

Creative inspiration

LEMON LIME BITTERS

ANGOSTURA SOUR

MOJITO

Add three lime wedges and 15ml lime cordial together in a high-ball glass, muddle, add ice and top up with lemonade. Add 6 – 8 dashes of Angostura aromatic bitters and stir. Garnish with a lemon or lime wedge.

Shake 30ml Angostura aromatic bitters, 30ml lemon juice, 30ml demara simple syrup and one egg white in a shaker. Then shake with ice and strain into a chilled coupe glass.

Muddle twelve mint leaves, two lime wedges and 37ml simple syrup in a highball glass. Add 60ml white rum and crushed ice, stirring consistently until glass frosts. Top with soda water or sparkling water and add three dashes of Angostura aromatic bitters. Garnish with mint sprigs and a lime wedge. Then serve.

ANGOSTURA DEEP CHOCOLATE SAUCE

Balance inspiration OLD FASHIONED

Saturate one sugar cube with two dashes of Angostura aromatic bitters in an oldfashioned glass and muddle. Add 60ml whisky and ice and stir together. Garnish with an orange wedge and serve. 40 w w w .t o p s a t s p a r. c o . z a

Combine ¼ cup milk, two teaspoons of Angostura aromatic bitters and two teaspoons of brandy in a measuring jug or microwaveable bowl. Microwave until very warm. Gradually add one cup of sweetened cocoa powder, whisking after each addition until smooth. Drizzle in additional milk if needed. Pour over your favourite ice-cream flavour.

Aromatic bitters is quite a strong flavour and very capable of over powering other ingredients, but in the right amounts it can elevate the flavours in just about anything.

T H E KO S H E R B U T C H E R ’ S W I F E

FAVOURITES

FLAVOUR

B O O K G I V E AWAY |

SHARON LURIE HAS BECOME SOUTH AFRICA’S FAVOURITE JEWISH MAMA – AND YES, SHE WANTS TO FEED YOU!

aving married into a fourthgeneration family of butchers, Sharon Lurie got to know meat really well ... But she also celebrated her Jewish heritage and love of food in general which is how her first book, Cooking with the Kosher Butcher’s Wife came about. That in turn led to Celebrating with the Kosher Butcher’s Wife a few years later. The latest book penned by Lurie is A Taste of South Africa with The Kosher Butcher’s Wife. As readers have come to expect – appreciate – the book is practical and full of gentle humour and motherly advice throughout.

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Gorry Bowes-Taylor’s blog on the Celebrating book had the following to say: “Cookbooks, I suspect, are as much paged through for the yummy pictures as for the recipes. My first impression of the book was that it has a decidedly retro feel. The styling is abundantly generous and somewhat over the top – dare I say that it has a distinctly Johannesburg opulence to the look and feel. And I suppose there’s that Jewish mother’s overriding concern that there should be enough to eat – ‘better more than too little’ would sum up the ethos.” By contrast, Lurie’s latest book has a distinctly – subtle – African feel to it. Most of the images celebrate South Africanness, like the liberal use of Shweshwe fabrics ... or the pea soup served in typical enamel mugs. There’s something homely and comforting in both the food, the warmth of the tone of the book and the recipes

which are divided up into easy to digest segments: breakfast, soups, breads, meat, veg, deli and sweets and ends. Lurie’s writing is conversational and easy. Take this little snippet from the meat chapter, for example: “Have you ever tried to take a piece of well-chewed biltong away from a teething baby? A scream that will frighten you to the very core! Our teeth and stomachs are designed to digest meat and our senses to stimulate hunger. Are you able to walk past a burger or boerewors braai and not be seduced by the incredible aroma that wafts through the air? It will press that hunger button immediately! After all, who can resist the sizzle of a burger, chop or steak as it’s slapped onto smoking and shimmering heat, or the tantalising aroma of flamelicked meat emblazoned with a dark brown crust?” Who indeed? Not us!

SHAKSAUSAGE ON MEALIE MEAL TOAST

Serves 6

This one-skillet dish of eggs poached in a spicy, harissainfused tomato sauce is one of my daughter Eden’s favourite meals. Actually a North African dish that was taken to Israel by Jewish immigrants, it can be served for breakfast, dinner or any time in between. There are a number of versions, but I am sharing a meat recipe. Another version replaces the tomato sauce with a rich spinach and cream sauce loaded with green vegetables and cheese. For convenience, the tomato sauce may be prepared up to 2 days before serving. Shakshuka is traditionally prepared in a cast iron pan (although most pans will do the trick), but make sure it’s clean and presentable, as it should be served straight from the pan for all to enjoy. Shakshuka 1 cup mealie meal or polenta (cooked as per packet instructions) olive oil 500g boerewors or Russian sausages or your favourite breakfast sausage, cut into 4–5cm thick slices 6 eggs

WIN

WIN A COPY OF THE KOSHER BUTCHER’S WIFE See T&C’s on pg 04 To qualify, send an e-mail or a postcard clearly marked Cheers Book Giveaway and containing your name, ID number, physical address (not a PO Box please!) along with a contact telephone number to qualify for the lucky draw. ADDRESS: cheers@cheersmag.co.za or Cheers, PO Box 259, Rondebosch 7701. ENTRY DEADLINE: 15TH AUGUST LIKE us on www.facebook.com/CheersMag to double your chance of winning.

Tomato sauce 2 red peppers, halved, deseeded and chopped 2 large onions, chopped 1 tsp crushed garlic 2 Tbsp cooking oil 2 heaped tsp harissa paste 1 Tbsp tomato paste 1 Tbsp brown sugar ½ tsp ground cumin 2 tsp smoked paprika a pinch cayenne pepper 2 x 400g cans chopped Italian tomatoes 1 Tbsp chopped fresh thyme or ½ tsp dried 1 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley salt and pepper to taste 1 Tbsp chopped fresh coriander or parsley for sprinkling 1 Spread the hot mealie meal or polenta over the base of a 10 x 15cm baking tray. Cover and refrigerate. This can be prepared a day in advance. 2 To make the tomato sauce, fry the peppers, onions and garlic in the oil until soft. Add the harissa paste, tomato paste, sugar, cumin, paprika and cayenne pepper and stir for a minute. Add the chopped tomatoes and bring to the boil, then lower the heat and allow to simmer for 30 minutes until the sauce reduces and thickens. Finally, add the thyme, parsley and salt and pepper. 3 Remove the mealie meal or polenta from the fridge. Slice into fingers (or triangles), lightly oil a grilling pan, brush each side of the fingers with olive oil and pan-sear until golden-brown (3–5 minutes per side), then set aside. 4 Meanwhile, fry the sliced boerewors or sausage in a large frying pan until lightly browned (don’t overcook, just brown for colour). Add the tomato sauce to the sausage and keep it warm over a low heat. 5 Make 6 openings in the tomato sauce and sausage mixture for the eggs. Crack each egg open into a little bowl and then place each egg into the opening created in the sauce. Continue cooking on the stove top until the egg whites start to form and the yolks are done to your preference (although the yolks should be soft). 6 Place the seared mealie meal or polenta fingers in the tomato sauce, sprinkle with coriander or parsley and serve immediately. J U L / AU G 2 0 1 9

B O O K G I V E AWAY |

T H E KO S H E R B U T C H E R ’ S W I F E

CHAKALAKA CORN LATKES (FRITTERS) with avocado aioli sauce Makes ±14

The best golden-brown, crispy, tasty, latke to ever accompany any meal, whether breakfast, lunch or supper. I can’t say much more about these other than once you start you can’t stop, just like popcorn. Oy, there I go trying to be corny again!

3 cups frozen corn kernels, defrosted 6 Tbsp chakalaka 1 large potato, grated 1 chilli, finely chopped (optional) 1 cup cake flour, sifted 1 egg 1 tsp baking powder Salt and pepper to taste Cooking oil for frying Avocado aioli sauce ½ cup mashed avocado 1 Tbsp lemon juice 1 tsp crushed garlic ½ cup mayonnaise

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1 First make the avocado aioli sauce by combining all the ingredients. 2 In a bowl, combine the corn kernels, chakalaka, potato, chilli (if using), flour, egg, baking powder and salt and pepper. 3 Heat oil in a frying pan over a medium heat, then drop heaped spoonfuls of batter into the oil. As the latkes fry, flatten them slightly with the back of the spoon. Once they are golden-brown and crispy, drain them on kitchen or brown paper. 4 Serve with the sauce.

BUSHY-EYED HONEYMUSTARD BRISKET Serves 8

Keeping kosher often makes self-catering a little challenging, especially when you’re away over Shabbos. However, a crockpot may be one of the best appliances you’ll ever find room for in your car. Leave the kitchen sink, but don’t forget to take the crockpot. In fact, you can use it for almost any meal. There is nothing better than returning from a day of animal spotting to a meal that’s hot, delicious and perfect. This is just one of my favourite crockpot meals. Who would have imagined hot beef on rye on a cold night in the African bush, or a delicious curry that’s been simmering all day? 2–2,5kg pickled brisket or hump ½ cup honey ½ cup brown treacle sugar 3 Tbsp grainy mustard ¼ cup smooth Dijon mustard 1 cup ginger ale 1 Wash the pickled brisket or hump very well, as the pickling solution contains quite a bit of salt. Place the meat into the crockpot. 2 Mix together the honey, sugar, mustards and ginger ale, then pour over the meat and cook on low for at least 8 hours. You need less liquid than you would if you cooked this in the oven. Steam forms in the crockpot and keeps the meat moist. (You’ll see the condensation forming on the lid, while the meat also gives off liquid during cooking.) 3 Slice and serve with mashed potatoes, a garlic and mustard sauce and peas, or serve on rye bread with piccalilli, pickled cucumbers and sauerkraut.

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B O O K G I V E AWAY |

T H E KO S H E R B U T C H E R ’ S W I F E

BOBBA SHAR’S NO-BAKE MELKTERT

Serves 10

My grandchildren asked me to make them a melktert (milk tart), South Africa’s all-time favourite. Naturally, I couldn’t wait to get home and start baking. After cleaning out my storage shed I found recipe ﬁles and books going back 35 years. The page for this recipe was torn, but there was a handwritten note on top that stated ‘outstanding recipe’. What a ﬁnd of hidden treasures that day proved to be. Best of all, the melktert was just in time for Shavuot when we traditionally eat milk-based dishes. If you’re making a non-dairy version, ensure that the biscuits are dairy-free too.

4 6 w w w . tt oo pp ss aa tt ss ppaarr..ccoo. .zzaa

Base 200–250g tea biscuits, Nuttikrusts or Tennis biscuits, crushed 150g butter or margarine, melted Filling 4 cups milk 3 Tbsp butter or margarine 1 x 395g can condensed milk A pinch salt 1 heaped Tbsp custard powder 3 Tbsp cornﬂour 3 eggs, lightly beaten 2 tsp vanilla essence Ground cinnamon for sprinkling

1 First make the base. Place the crushed biscuits into a bowl, then add the melted butter and mix well. Press the mixture onto the base and sides of a pie dish with a 1.5-litre capacity. Refrigerate until ready to use. 2 In a saucepan, heat 3 cups of the milk, reserving the remaining cup to use later. Add the butter or margarine and condensed milk and keep stirring with a whisk. Just as it starts to come to the boil, remove from the heat and set aside to cool slightly. 3 Meanwhile, combine the salt, custard powder, cornflour and beaten eggs with the reserved cup of milk. Whisk until smooth. Very slowly add the cooled milk mixture to the egg mixture (it mustn’t scramble the eggs) and keep whisking until well combined. Return this mixture to the saucepan in which the milk was warmed earlier. Heat and continue whisking until it thickens. (It’s important to whisk all the time as the mixture must be very smooth, without any lumps. If you find a few, strain the mixture through a fine sieve.) Finally, add the vanilla essence and stir well. 4 Pour the filling into the refrigerated pie crust. Sprinkle with cinnamon and allow to cool. Cover with clingfilm and leave to set overnight.

TUISNYWERHEID |

EMILE JOUBERT

TROOSKOS IN DIE BINNELAND IS DIT KOUD, YSIG EN BITTER. VRA NET VIR IEMAND WAT ’N WINTER OP BLOEMFONTEIN OF BETHLEHEM DEURGEBRING HET. RYP LAAT DIE GRAS KRAAK. MENS SE ASEM WORD WALMS – EN DAAR’S NIKS LEKKERDER AS ’N BORD SOP NIE.

op is seker die ware universele kossoort. Ek meen, watter land bestaan waar daar geëet word en nie sop gemaak word nie? En al het jy die vernaamste kosskeet of -allergie sal daar ’n sop vir jou wees. Vegetariërs het honderde groentesoppe om van te kies. Diegene wat allergies is vir gluten kan van sop alleen lewe. Selfs vegans kan hul verlustig aan meer sopsoorte as wat jy op jou vleisverarmde vingers kan tel. En selfs vleislustiges, ware karnivore, sal soppe vind om hul siel te voed en krag in te win. Maar belangrikste van als, wat is lekkerder as ’n bakkie warm sop op ’n winteraand? Met ’n dik sny vars brood en glasie soetwyn? Ek skop af met ’n vleissop, met boontjies en tamatie. LAMSKENSKEL SOP Bedien ses tot agt mense 700 g kortgesaagde lamskenkels Meel 1 ui, fyngekap 3 huisies knoffel, fyngekap 2 selderystokke, in blokkies gesny 3 groot wortels, in blokkies gesny Olyfolie 2 liter vleisaftreksel 2 lourierblare 1 blik gekapte tamaties 3 blikke borlotti-bone Sout en vars gemaalde swartpeper na smaak 1 Rol die lamskenkels in ’n bietjie meel. Skud die oortollige meel van die skenkels af. Verhit ’n bietjie olyfolie in ’n groot kastrol. Braai die skenkels tot bruin. Haal die skenkels uit die kastrol, dop nog ’n bietjie olyfolie in die kastrol en braai die knoffel, seldery en wortels vir sowat 10 minute tot sag en sweterig. Sit die skenkels terug by die groente en voeg dan die vleisaftreksel, lourierblare, geblikte bone en geblikte tamaties by. Geur met sout en vars gemaalde swartpeper. Kook nou vir minstens 6 ure – of verkieslik stadig oornag. 2 Skep vir elke porsie ’n stukkie been by. Dit is lekker om af te suig en bewys dat daar eens vleis aan was.

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ERTJIESOP Hierdie is ’n ou gunsteling, en vir my is die sop se groen kleur iets wat my beter laat voel weens die gesonde voorkoms. Net deur daarna te kyk voel ek die vitamiene deur my are pols. Om agt tot 10 siele te bevredig, het jy die volgende nodig: 500 gram (1 pakkie) gesplete ertjies 6 tot 8 Duitse worse, soos Frankfurters 1 gerookte varkskenkel óf 4 gerookte varktjops. 2 koppies preie, fyngekap 2 stingels seldery 2 blokkies biefekstrak 2 liter tot 2,5 liter water Sout en peper na smaak 1 Deesdae se ertjies hoef nie geweek te word nie, tensy die pakkie so sê. Gooi als in die water – behalwe

die worse – en prut vir minstens drie ure. As die vleis nog nie van die been afgeval het nie, haal uit en sny op – soos kundig verduidelik in bogenoemde resep vir boontjiesop. Sny worse, wat al bestanddeel is wat nie pot toe gegaan het nie, in skywe en voeg by die sop. (Sommige siele trek die velle van die worse af, maar sissies hoort nie naby ’n ertjiesop te kom nie.) Prut vir nog so 20 minute, en skep op. 2 ’n Bietjie suurroom kan ook deurgeroer word net voor bediening. SOPWENKE Worcestersous – ek vertrou g’n sop wat ek nie saam met Worcestersous kan eet nie. Dit is ’n sopmaat-duisend. Maak verskeie soppe voor die vakansie, en vries met gemoedsrus in Tupperware. Voor dit herverhit raak, gooi net bietjie water onderin die pot en hou die hitte laag totdat die sop

Emile Joubert is a PR practitioner by profession, but a food and wine enthusiast by desire. Check out his blog: www.winegoggle.co.za

ontdooi het – gevriesde sop brand verstommend maklik aan. Hou áltyd brood byderhand as jy sop eet. Dit vul die maaggate en hou jou mond skoon. As jy sop in ’n fles gaan sit om later langs die hengelwaters of in die bosveld te geniet, moenie die sop te dik maak nie. Daar is niks op dees aarde meer frustrerend as om dik stukke sop uit ’n fles te probeer krap terwyl jy vrek van die honger nie. J U L / AU G 2 0 1 9

TIMELESS CLASSICS RESEARCH HAS SHOWN THAT MOST HOME COOKS TEND TO CYCLE THROUGH THE SAME EIGHT TO 12 DISHES WHEN PREPARING FOOD FOR THEIR FAMILIES. TERESA ULYATE HAS SOME SUGGESTIONS OF ADDING ONE OR TWO ROCK SOLID STAPLES TO THE LIST.

y husband and I recently had a discussion about age. We celebrate our birthdays in the same week and because of it, tend to be more aware of our own ageing at the same time! We were thinking back to a time in our lives where we would happily (and willingly!) head out to pubs and clubs all year round, including mid-winter to hang out with our friends, seemingly oblivious to the freezing cold temperatures outside. How things have changed! These days we are unapologetically content to be indoors, next to the fire or under our cosy blankets with our thick, fluffy socks and hot mugs of tea. Whether you’re still happily hibernating or marking off the days on the calendar until you can dig out your short sleeves and flip flops I hope that you will tuck into these warming recipes and appreciate the season. Shepherd’s pie is definitely one of life’s great comfort meals and this version made with lamb mince, rosemary and red wine is a guaranteed crowd pleaser. After you’ve finished off your mains you should have just enough space for a slice of chocolate cheese tart – a sweet pastry shell with a baked chocolate cheesecake filling and topped with dark chocolate ganache. It’s decadently delicious enough to make you want to stay inside, no matter the weather! So gather the family around the table and enjoy a hearty feast! (Thick and fluffy socks are optional ...)

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LAMB AND ROSEMARY SHEPHERD’S PIE Serves 4

For the mince: 15ml (1 tbsp.) olive oil 1 red onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 3 medium carrots (about 120g) peeled and finely chopped 500g lamb mince 2 sprigs rosemary, leaves removed and finely chopped 125ml (½ cup) red wine 400g tin peeled and chopped tomatoes 250ml (1 cup) beef stock 15ml (1 tbsp.) Worcestershire sauce Salt and pepper For the topping: 750g potatoes, peeled and quartered 75g butter 125ml (½ cup) milk Salt 40g finely grated parmesan cheese Piping bag and round nozzle (optional)

1 To make the mince filling heat the olive oil in a deep frying pan. Add the onion, garlic and carrots and sauté for 2-3 minutes. 2 Add the lamb mince and rosemary to the pan and brown the mince. Add the red wine and cook for a further minute. 3 Add the tomatoes, beef stock and Worcestershire sauce. Season with salt and pepper, reduce the heat and leave to simmer for 25 minutes. 4 To make the topping place the potatoes in a large pot and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil and cook for 20-25 minutes until the potatoes are tender. While the potatoes and mince are cooking, preheat your oven to 200°C and get an ovenproof dish ready. 5 Just before the potatoes are ready heat the butter and milk in a small saucepan until the butter has melted and the milk is just about to reach boiling point. Drain the potatoes and add the milk mixture with a pinch of salt and the grated cheese. Mash the potatoes until smooth. Set aside to cool for a few minutes. 6 Check the seasoning of the mince mixture. Tip the mince into the oven dish and smooth into an even layer. Spoon the cooled mashed potato into the piping bag and pipe over the top of the mince. (You can also spoon the potato over the top if you prefer.) Bake for 35-40 minutes until the potato has browned. Serve immediately.

T E R E S A U LYA T E

B LO G S P OT

Teresa Ulyate is a multi-tasking working mom who juggles a job, children and a blog cupcakesandcouscous.com

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B LO G S P O T |

T E R E S A U LYA T E

CHOCOLATE CHEESE TART WITH DARK CHOCOLATE GANACHE Servings: 8-10 For the sweet pastry: 625ml (2½ cups) flour Small pinch of salt 150g unsalted butter 200ml icing sugar 2 large eggs, beaten For the chocolate filling: 2 large eggs 100ml castor sugar 5ml (1 tsp) vanilla extract 250g smooth cream cheese 100g dark chocolate, melted 100ml sour cream Cocoa/icing sugar/berries to decorate (optional) For the chocolate ganache: 100g dark chocolate, finely chopped 45ml (3 tbsp.) cream

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1 To make the pastry: Sift the flour and salt onto your clean work surface and make a well in the middle. Put the butter in the centre and use your fingertips to gently work it until soft. Mix the icing sugar into the butter. 2. Add the eggs and mix into the butter and sugar. Start cutting the flour into the mixture slowly. Bring the mixture together with your hands, then knead a few times to make a smooth dough. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least an hour. 3 Grease a 25cm tart tin. Roll the dough into a circle and line the tin. Preheat your oven to 180°C. Chill the pastry shell in the fridge for 20 minutes. 4 Line the pastry with a piece of crumpled baking paper. Fill the paper with dried beans and bake for 10 minutes. Remove the beans and paper and bake the pastry for another 5 minutes or until just cooked.

5 While the pastry is baking prepare your filling. Place the eggs, sugar, vanilla and cream cheese in a bowl and whisk until smooth. Add the melted dark chocolate and the sour cream and whisk again until everything is combined. 6 Reduce the oven temperature to 150°C. Pour the chocolate filling into the pastry shell and carefully transfer to the oven. Bake the tart for 1 hour or until set. Leave to cool completely. 7 To make the ganache: place the chopped dark chocolate in a small bowl. Heat the cream until it just reaches boiling point, then pour the hot cream over the chocolate. Leave to stand for a minute, then whisk until smooth and glossy. Leave to cool for 5 minutes. 8 Pour the ganache over the cold tart and spread with a spatula. Leave to set. (You can put the tart in the fridge if you’re in a hurry or if it’s warm outside.) Decorate, slice and serve. Store in the fridge.

HOT NEWS SWITCHING IT UP

Constant reinvention and rejuvenation of the food offering keeps things as fresh for the staff at Gabriëlskloof Restaurant in Bot River as it does for the host of regular patrons. Visitors to the restaurant that occupies a wing of the celebrated hilltop winery boasting views of the surrounding valley appreciate the large fireplace that’s ablaze on cold days as much as they do the switch from a la carte fare to more hearty winter delights. This is the perfect time to join the throng of diners-inthe-know who make a beeline for the winelands eatery that’s famous for generous country-style hospitality and all-round good fare. The new winter menu runs until the end of August, curated in the delectable style for which chef Frans Groenewald is renowned for. Dishes will change daily, ensuring the offer stays interesting no matter how regularly people visit. Groenewald’s inspiration for the seasonal blackboard menu came from a fresh perspective on the region. “To me, the Overberg is about community and collaboration, natural beauty and harmony. I love coming to work and driving through a landscape that gives me peace and makes me curious at the same time,” he said. “We’ll be punting plant-based dishes – not exclusively of course – but I’d like to show that vegetarian options can be wholesome and satisfying – even with the winter chill about.” Expect dishes such as crispy pork belly, roasts, chick pea-and-lentil salad or chick pea-and lentil-bolognese, big casseroles, soups, grilled trout, wheat risotto or curried wheat salad. On the sweeter side, diners can look forward to treats like chocolate fondant, chocolate mousse, the traditional decadence souskluitjies and milk tart tiramisu. The foodie spectacle steps up a notch on Sundays when, in addition to the Blackboard Menu, the Gabriëlskloof Restaurant presents a set five-course menu. Reservations are advised and can be made by calling 028 284 9865 or emailing restaurant@gabriëlskloof.co.za.

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BOT RIVER BIG BOTTLES July 14 is commemorated annually as the day in which the Bastille in Paris was stormed during the French Revolution. Two winemakers from the Overberg’s Bot River area will be taking Johannesburg by storm the same day, one a king of Shiraz and the other a Queen of Methóde Cap Classique (MCC). Both Luddite Wines’ Niels Verburg and Genevieve MCC’s maker Melissa Nelsen hail from Bot River in the Overberg, a region known by its credo “real wine made by real people”; the unspoilt, down-to-earth, sociable character of the farmers; and, wines for lovers of the road less travelled. For the small-town experience in the big city of Jozi, serving the Shiraz from 9-litre bottles and the MCC from 1.5-litre magnums makes the occasion unique. The aim is to give enthusiasts the opportunity to experience the difference in taste that a large-format bottle makes. Guests will be welcomed with canapes and the 2010 vintage Genevieve MCC. Then it’s onto a tapas-style lunch paired with five vintages of Luddite Shiraz out of 9-litre bottles – or Salmanazar – which is the equivalent of 12 standard 750 ml bottles. It’s the first time this has been done in

Johannesburg and is a wine event designed to show the varying effects that terroir, climate and crop size has on wine. “In big bottle format wine comes across fresher,” says Penny Verburg, who will co-host the event. It just seems to age better in big bottles.” As for the bubbly to be served, 2010 was the first year Melissa decided on magnums, setting aside just 120 bottles of her precious Genevieve MCC. She had always had a love for bubbly and when the opportunity arose to make it, she jumped. Genevieve is her second name and the patron saint of Paris, making Genevieve MCC the perfect link between great South African MCC made in the style of French Champagne. The venue is Urbanologi, famed for fine, eco-friendly food, and somewhere that has been described as the “clear standout of must-visit inner-city dining spots”. Located at the uber-cool 1 Fox Precinct of Ferreirasdorp in the heart of Jozi, chef Jack Coetzee sources all ingredients except spices, within 150km of the restaurant. Tickets are limited so early booking is advised. Contact Sharon at info@luddite.co.za, or call 028 284 9308.

AWARDS, TROPHIES AND MEDALS GALORE

While active winemaking slows down somewhat during the winter months, it’s still a very lively period with cellar masters doing the round of the various awards and shows collecting medals and trophies their wines have won.

THE SHIRAZ CHALLENGE The Shiraz Challenge was held in Paarl for the seventh consecutive year and produced a lineup of 12 winning single varietal wines and three Shiraz – led blends. Singled out for special mention was the KWV which is the only producer to have won an award since the inception of the competition. The dozen Shiraz champions for 2019 are: Babylonstoren 2017, Neethlingshof 2015, Bellingham the Bernard Series Basket Press Syrah 2016, Quoin Rock 2015, Driehoek 2017 and Driehoek 2016, Rhebokskloof Black Marble Hill 2016, Kruger Family Reserve 2016, Flagstone Dark Horse 2015, Strandveld First Sighting 2017, KWV Cathedral Cellar 2016 and Wellington Wines’ La Cave 2017. The winning Shiraz blends were: Alvi’s Drift Albertus Viljoen Bismarck 2017, Babylonstoren Babel 2017 and Eikendal Charisma 2017. Panel convenor and Cape Wine Master Dr Andy Roediger said the continued pace of year-on-year improvement impressed the judges. “The wines across the board were of improving quality and it appears

the winemakers have got their wood regime right. Very few wines were heavily oaked, a tendency which is being moved away from. It appears that oak from East Europe is overtaking a preference for American, which has resulted in more spicy Shiraz styles.” MUSCADEL SA AWARDS It’s always a case of sweet success at the Muscadel SA awards... Top performer this year was former co-operative cellar Badsberg from Rawsonville in the Breedekloof valley with one platinum and two gold awards at the 17th annual event sponsored by Enartis SA. “We are very proud of our flagship Red Muscadel,” said Badsberg cellar master Willie Burger. “We were honoured

with a platinum award in 2014 for our Badsberg Red Muscadel 2013 so to win this award again is a great privilege.” Robertson’s Mont Blois estate is the only other cellar to be honoured with a platinum award in 2019. The wine estate has been in the Bruwer family for six generations and their winning wine, Mont Blois Pump House White Muscadel 2016 is from vineyards that are 26 years old. A scant 330 cases of this sweet, liquid gold were produced. Other Robertson producers which won gold were Bon Courage estate and Montagu wine & spirits while Du Toitskloof and Slanghoek from the Breedekloof valley defended their region’s honour. De Wet Cellar from the Worcester wine and olive route won gold for their White Muscadel 2017 and Orange River Cellars won gold for its White Muscadel 2017 and Hanepoot 2017. “The wine industry as well as the rest of the agricultural industry is suffering from severe drought at the moment,” said Muskadel SA chairman Henri Swiegers. “We’re very happy with muscadel because it is one of the first grape varieties to ripen, the heat helps the grapes build up a good concentration of sugar.” ABOVE: The 12 winners at the 2019 Shiraz Challenge. LEFT: Robertson winery Mont Blois was awarded Platinum status.

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OLD MUTUAL TROPHY WINE SHOW The most high profile of the local events is the Old Mutual Trophy wine show which this year celebrated its 18th staging. Just shy of 1 000 entries were received from 206 producers – and the judging panel awarded just 32 gold medals and 24 trophies were won. The Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show believes it’s an effective “showcase of the everchanging landscape of Cape wine”. Biggest winner overall was Painted Wolf wines which walked off with the trophies for best niche red and best niche white varieties with their Black Pack Mourvèdre 2017 and 2018 Roussanne respectively. Stellenbosch’s Mulderbosch also won big, taking home the Cecil Skotnes designed trophy for the best Chenin Blanc with its Single Vineyard Chenin Blanc block A 2017 – which also won the Old Mutual international judges trophy as well as the cup for the best white wine overall. The top Cabernet Sauvignon went to Kruger Family Reserve 2017 – which was also adjudged the best red wine overall. Bonnievale’s 2015 Barrel Select Cabernet Sauvignon was rewarded with the trophy as the discovery of the show and best value find. Cape Point Vineyards Isliedh 2017 was the best white blend, JC Le Roux’s 2014 Scintilla reserve MCC was the best sparkling wine while Leopard’s Leap Culinaria Collection Grand Vin 2017 was deemed the top Bordeaux-style blend. Its non-Bordeaux counterpart went to Calitzdorp’s De Krans for the Tritonia 2016. No stranger to awards, Jordan’s barrel fermented Chardonnay 2018 won its class while Rustenberg walked off with the Shiraz bragging rights for its Buzzard Kloof Syrah 2017. Sauvignon Blanc is a crowd favourite and top honours went to Ghost Corner 2018 while the best Pinotage went to Survivor’s 2017 reserve. The best Cape port was Delaire Graff Cape Vintage 2017 and the unfortified dessert wine trophy was won by Nederburg for The Winemasters Noble Late Harvest 2018. Recognising that the appreciation of mature wines is growing, the OMTWS recognises a Museum Class. Winner were: the KWV for its Ruby Port 1949 and 2012 The Mentors Semillon; D’Aria The Songbird Sauvignon Blanc 2014 and Desiderius Pongrácz Méthode Cap Classique 2011 which showed that local bubbly doesn’t have to be young to be good.

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LEFT: their cups – or trophies – runneth over ... winners at the Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show.

CABERNET FRANC CHALLENGE Cabernet Franc is a variety which continues to see good growth with more and more local producers bottling it as a stand alone wine rather than a component of a red blend. The fourth Cabernet Franc Challenge again highlighted the quality wines made by passionate advocates of this wine. “The panel was in complete agreement that the line-up of wines showed an improvement on last year,” said Christine Rudman, Cape Wine Master and convenor of the judging panel. “There was an astonishing quality jump on what was already at a high standard, resulting in a record number of Golds being awarded. “Of particular note was the lithe elegance, the harmony and balance of the wines, with careful use of oak. Despite showing great presence and being impressively complex and multi-layered, they had enough succulence to make them delicious to drink even young. Yet the vintage class showed just how well they could age.” The Top Six wines for this year’s competition were: Hillcrest Saartjie 2017, Holden Manz 2017, Lisha Nelson 2017, Mulderbosch Vineyards with their 2015 and 2016 Cabernet Francs and Raats Dolomite 2016. The top three blends were Landskroon Cabernet Franc/Merlot 2017, Morgenster Lourens River Valley 2012 and My Wyn Les Grandes Horizontales 2015. The Vintage Category award went to Ormonde Private Cellar Ondine 2014 while Bushmanspad Estate’s 2015 was deemed the best value winner. DECANTER WORLD WINE AWARDS And on the international scene, the Decanter World Wine Awards announced the results of its annual selection. More

than 12 000 samples were submitted to a competition which is judged in London by some of the world’s finest tasters. Overall, just 148 wines – or less than one percent of all entries – were rewarded with Platinum medal status, and there were six South African wines which achieved this. Franschhoek bubbly specialist Le Lude was recognised for its Vintage Cuvée Brut 2012 while Beyerskloof Faith 2014, a blend of Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot was joined by Tokara Director’s Reserve 2014 (Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blend), Nicolas van der Merwe Syrah 2017 and Constantia Glen Five 2015. The surprise package as a platinum winner was Swartland winery with its 2017 Bushvine Chenin Blanc. Overall, 480 wines won gold medals – just 2.9% of all entries. South African producers accounted for 20 of those golds. They were: Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Paul Cluver Noble Late Harvest Riesling 2017 and 2018 Riesling; Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2015; Uva Mira 2017 Chardonnay, The Mira Chardonnay 2017 and The Single Tree Chardonnay 2017 as well as OTV 2016 red blend; Idiom ‘B’ blend 2015; Strandveld First Sighting Sauvignon Blanc 2018; Delaire Graff Laurence Graff Reserve 2015; StarkCondé Oude Nektar red blend 2016 and the white Field Blend 2018; Wildekrans Barrel Select Reserve Chenin Blanc 2017; Ridgeback His Master’s Choice Signature C 2016; Oldenburg Vineyards Rondekop Stone Axe 2016; De Grendel Op Die Berg Chardonnay (Ceres Plateau) 2018; DeMorgenzon Reserve Chenin Blanc 2018 and Reserve Chardonnay 2018 and Lanzerac Cabernet Sauvignon-MerlotPetit Verdot 2016.

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THE ZEN OF

RUGBY

JAPAN ABOUNDS IN ICONIC IMAGERY – AND NONE IS MORE IMMEDIATELY RECOGNISABLE THAN THE BEAUTIFUL SYMMETRY OF MOUNT FUJI. FOR THE SOUTH AFRICAN TEAM COMPETING AT THE 2019 STAGING OF THE RUGBY WORLD CUP HOWEVER, THERE IS A SCORE TO SETTLE WITH THE JAPANESE CHERRY BLOSSOMS AFTER THE OPENING ROUND HUMBLING IN 2015. BY CRAIG RAY.

TOP: Precision, preparation and simple beauty are concepts prized by the Japanese. While art and poetry were appreciated by the samurai, the field of battle was their natural habitat... and in 2019 the fighting will be over territory, points and possession of an oval rugby ball!

ugby fans will be pleased to hear that Japan’s most popular alcoholic beverage is beer. Considering rugby and beer are as synonymous as New Zealanders and champion rugby teams, that is good news. For the players participating at Rugby World Cup 2019 in Japan from September to November this year though, beer and any other alcohol will be in rationed supply as

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they all push (tackle, kick, run and scrum...) to lift the Webb Ellis Cup. The ninth staging of RWC is perhaps the most interesting of them all because the tournament is not being held in a traditional rugby stronghold. In the previous eight editions, the home team was always among the pretournament favourites. Japan, despite their historic win over the Springboks in Brighton

at RWC 2015, are clearly not among the game’s elite. Despite home ground advantage, they are unlikely to be in the running for glory at the business end. But for previous RWC winners New Zealand, England, Australia and South Africa, and top ranked teams such as Ireland and Wales, playing in Japan neutralises the balance of power slightly. No team will feel entirely comfortable in the foreign surroundings. Picking a winner is less obvious but one thread binds the world’s top four ranked teams – New Zealand, Wales, Ireland and England – and that’s an experienced and settled coaching staff. All Black mentor Steve Hansen is heading to his fourth World Cup and second as head coach of the team, Warren Gatland is taking Wales to a third RWC in his 11th year in charge and Ireland’s Joe Schmidt is in his sixth year in charge. “You can’t underestimate how important coaches are in the modern game and it’s no coincidence that the best four teams in the world have four of the best coaches,” 1987 World Cupwinner and former All Black captain Sean Fitzpatrick said. “Modern players like to be coached. Hansen, Gatland, Schmidt

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and Eddie Jones at England understand the modern game, they understand players and they are always brilliantly prepared. “If you look at the teams that are struggling around the world, it starts with the coaching set-up.” The All Blacks are naturally the favourites after winning the last two tournaments while Ireland, Wales and England pose huge threats. The Springboks have shown positive signs recently, most famously with their sensational win over the All Blacks in Wellington last year, but inconsistency and lack of time under current coach Rassie Erasmus are barriers to overcome. “Both NZ and Ireland are frontrunners at the moment in terms of the way their structures are geared towards success,” 2007 World Cup winner and leading Springbok tryscorer Bryan Habana said. “For the 18 months up until the end of 2018, from when they beat the All Blacks in Chicago, to winning the Six Nations Grand Slam and beating New Zealand in Dublin, Ireland were the form team in the world under Schmidt. “Teams that have won RWC in the past are teams that have had good momentum and structure leading into the tournament. That is an area where the Boks are perhaps challenged.” The Springboks and All Blacks are drawn together in Pool play for the ﬁrst time ever at a World Cup, thanks to the Boks’ lowly world ranking in early 2017 when the draw was done.

The two rugby giants clash in Yokohama on September 21 in the biggest match of the Pool stage. But with Italy, Canada and Namibia joining the two former winners in Pool B, losing that match is unlikely to hinder progress to the next round. The negative of losing is that the Pool runner-up is likely to meet Ireland in the quarterﬁnals. It’s not an insurmountable challenge but as far as last eight matches go, it would be tough. Conversely, Ireland won’t be relishing the prospect of meeting the

TOP RIGHT: Springbok captain Jean de Villiers wrestled with an opposing player in the opening match of the 2015 Rugby World Cup.

BOTTOM: Ireland have humbled the mighty All Blacks. Could they be the dark horses of the tournament? Former New Zealand hooker and captain Sean Fitzpatrick believes Wales, a settled unit under coach Warren Gatland (pictured) are in with a chance of victory.

All Blacks or the Boks in the last eight either. A meeting with one of those two southern hemisphere powers is inevitable though. “What’s to say the Boks won’t beat the All Blacks in the opening game, so maybe we’ll be trying to lose to Scotland to avoid New Zealand,” Ireland legend Brian Driscoll said, tongue only slightly in cheek. “There is a lot of rugby to be played and a lot of permutations but one thing is guaranteed, there will be no easy passage through the quarterﬁnals.” Fitzpatrick has no doubt that the All Black’s hold on the tournament faces different threats in 2019. “I back the All Blacks to win, but the biggest challengers will come from the northern hemisphere,” Fitzpatrick said. “Ireland have worked out a winning formula against the All Blacks. Ireland played New Zealand at their own game, comfortable without the ball and using defence to put the All Blacks under pressure. A couple of mistakes led to Ireland tries in Dublin last year. “They will have to play very well, but in saying that, the teams that play against them will have to be at their best to beat New Zealand.” J U L / AU G 2 0 1 9

THINGAMAJIGS |

COOL KIT WARM ... BUT COOL OR COOL BUT WARM IS ONE OF THOSE WEIRDLY APPROPRIATE CONCEPTS WHERE THE “COOL” REFERS TO ITS POPULARITY AND CROWD APPEAL AND THE WARMTH OFFERED BY THE ITEMS ON DISPLAY IS QUITE SELF EVIDENT. FUNKY AND FABULOUS, WHO WOULDN’T WANT SOME OF THESE OBJECTS?

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POCKET MIRROR, R95, www.bigblue.co.za ECOFFEE CUP BAMBOO TRAVEL MUG, R239, www.yuppiechef.com 3 BUNNY COSMETIC PURSE, R89, www.ni ygi s.co.za 4 ZIP & FLIP UNICORN PILLOW, R290, www.bigblue.co.za 5 INSTANT HEAT COSY KNIT HAND WARMER, R49, www.ni ygi s.co.za 6 RETRO KALEIDOSCOPE CANVAS BAG, R139, www.ni ygi s.co.za 7 TWEEXY POLISH HOLDER, R90, www.bigblue.co.za 8 LE CREUSET STONEWARE TEA LIGHTS, R299, www.yuppiechef.com 9 INFINITY SCARF, R160, www.hellopretty.co.za 10 BAMBOO WASHCLOTH, R80, www.hellopretty.co.za

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S PA R G O O D L I V I N G

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BRIGHT AND BEAUTIFUL

DOMESTIC CHORES SEEM A LITTLE EASIER TO HANDLE WHEN THE HOME IS WELL STOCKED WITH ALL THE NECESSARY EQUIPMENT AND EVEN A FEW ‘FUN’ THINGS TO HAVE... LIKE COLOURFUL MUFFIN CASES, FOR EXAMPLE.

4 1 E-Z Lock container (round 120ml) - assorted colours 2 Rain umbrella – unisex fold-up 3 Household candles 450g - rainbow (6 pack) 4 Ironing board - metal amed 5 Coloured lotus muffin cases (48 piece) 6 Twist cap water bottle (500ml) - blue / pink 7 So grip clothes pegs (14 piece) 8 Pizza cutter in vogue fashion colours 9 Straight peeler in vogue fashion colours 10 Garlic press in vogue fashion colours

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FISHING |

SLACK LINES

GREAT EXPECTATIONS THERE’S AN OLD SAYING ABOUT CALLING THE PURSUIT OF SCALY, FINNED CRITTERS THAT SWIM IN WATER “FISHING” RATHER THAN “CATCHING”... AS GARETH GEORGE CAN ATTEST.

very fishing trip deserves a happy ending. It’s never guaranteed, but the prospect of success is what motivates the hunt to begin with. When those of us who love this sport can’t fish, we resort to scratching the itch vicariously through reliable reports, condensed nowadays into a single photo that has more thumbprints than an old girlie magazine. Technology can be a real curse when it comes to having your nose rubbed in someone else’s fishing accolades, but a boon when wanting to share the latest conquest. A vicious circle indeed. Selecting fishing destinations revolves around this digital footprint, with online footage cementing the deal. (And if it’s your own album – you need to get out more!) After my first adventure, returning to Angola was never in question. Memories and images of rolling Tarpon on the tide drowned any other consideration. Since my mate Jeremy hadn’t yet seen the regal display of a Silver King in full flight, he feigned apologies and bolted from the office. Joining Tommo (Craig Thomassen) on this tour was Brad Cartwright, harboring a festering grudge. I’d hoped it was over the last Tarpon refusing his fly, but he was still stewing at being left marooned on the jetty during our inaugural trip. My fault since I selfishly decreed that his morning ablutions were eating into valuable fishing time. 62 w w w .t o p s a t s p a r. c o . z a

I might never be forgiven! He had a score to settle – and fortunately all that emotion was directed mainly at the fish. The fresh water influx from the Angolan highlands had not completed it’s nearly 1 000km journey to the Kwanza river mouth, being the catalyst that brings the Atlantic Tarpon rolling in every summer. From a flyfishing perspective, it meant we were stuffed! To my mind, sight fishing has no equal: to place a fly on the spot and witness the take is a close second to the magnificence of the birth of your first child. But in the absence of heads or tails to throw at, the knowledge that anything could be moving along this Atlantic slipway is sufficient to keep you casting into likely looking current lines … for the first day. By day two, you’re scouring the ocean for birds, shoaling fish of any description, until eventually you settle for simply ripping and stripping around structure. For the uninitiated – and I choose my words carefully – it is without question the worst form of fly-fishing that exists! The tedium of throwing a 12-weight rod and slapping what could pass for a sparkplug into what seems like a bottomless pit is mind numbing. Don’t be fooled by the tranquil clear blue water. It soothes you into somnolence and creates a false sense of expectation. The sun beating down as you watch your line sink into oblivion for the

... to place a fly on the spot and witness the take is a close second to the magnificence of the birth of your first child.

Fishing on fly is an art, requiring patience, skill, observation of swimming and feeding patterns – and endless optimism.

umpteenth time soon dulls any enthusiasm. Factor in the realisation that what you’re doing requires zero skill and oodles of dumb luck and it’s enough to extinguish what little hope might remain. Times like these even lead lighthearted banter to develop a barb or two. (Boredom is a nasty bedfellow on board.) Poking fun at your mate’s fortune on fly is crossing the line. Never resent another’s catch is an unspoken law, which you find yourself breaking. After the fourth fruitless session, back at camp decorum dictates that one must mask

the burning frustration and congratulate those who landed fish. Single malt helps to lubricate the words which would otherwise stick in the throat … More misery might seem improbable – but a huge pull on the first drift of the final session is swiftly followed by the horror of realizing I’d picked up my 9-weight rod! Karma truly is what they say … I could only go through the motions, knowing I’d been whipped! They say there’s a defining moment in an angler’s life; a standard by which all outings are

measured – and that’s “the time before catching a Silver King and each fishing trip thereafter”. Well Brad can bear testament to this, with two majestic Megalops under his belt and a noticeable air of self satisfaction. I’d like to say I’ve learned a lesson from the humbling experience of catching diddly squat, but I haven’t – or, more accurately, refuse to. I want to always expect to catch fish and enjoy the heady days leading up to any expedition. Anticipation is half the fun, so, let great expectations reign.

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E N T E R TA I N M E N T |

MUSIC AND MOVIES IN THE INTERNET AGE WHAT WOULD HAPPEN IF YOU KNEW ALL THE BEATLES SONGS – BUT NO-ONE ELSE IN THE WORLD DID? OR A CYBERNETICALLY ENHANCED IDRIS ELBA BADDIE SQUARED OFF AGAINST DWAYNE “THE ROCK” JOHNSON AND JASON STATHAM ... JUST SOME OF THE FUN STUFF TO LOOK FORWARD TO THEN!

YESTERDAY

top pick Imagine a world where the Beatles and their music didn’t exist. That’s the premise the writers took for the laugh-out-loud funny movie Yesterday which is packed full of Beatles songs ... but “composed” by Jack Malik. Jack Malik is a struggling singer-songwriter in an English seaside town, played by Himesh Patel, whose dreams of fame have faded, despite the ﬁerce devotion and support of his childhood best friend, Ellie (Lily James). After a freak bus accident during a mysterious global blackout, Jack wakes up to discover that The Beatles have never existed. Performing songs by the greatest band in history to a world that has never heard them, Jack becomes on overnight sensation with a little help from his agent. Adding extra spice and appeal to the movie are great cameos by Ed Sheeran and James Corden. 64 w w w .t o p s a t s p a r. c o . z a

FAST & FURIOUS HOBBS & SHAW “I’m what you call an ice-cold can of whoop ASS ...” with lines like that deadpanned by muscle-bound Dwayne Johnson, how can this latest episode in the Fast & Furious franchise fail to be anything but entertaining – especially since he and Jason Statham, as disgraced former MI6 operative Shaw, have to track down Idris Elba, an AI enhanced evil beast! Hulking lawman Hobbs, a loyal agent of America’s Diplomatic Security Service, and outcast Shaw ﬁrst faced off in 2015’s Furious 7. The duo have swapped smack talk and body blows while simultaneously trying to take each other down. But when cybergenetically enhanced anarchist Brixton (Elba) gains control of an insidious bio-threat that could alter humanity forever — and bests a brilliant and fearless rogue MI6 agent (The Crown’s Vanessa Kirby), who just happens to be Shaw’s sister — these two sworn enemies have to partner up to bring down the only guy who might be badder than themselves.

CRAWL When a massive hurricane hits her Florida town, young Haley ignores the evacuation orders to search for her missing father, Dave. After finding him gravely injured in their family home, the two of them become trapped by the rapidly encroaching floodwaters. With the storm strengthening, Haley and Dave discover an even greater threat than the rising water level – a relentless attack from a pack of gigantic alligators. British actress Kaya Scodelario portrays Haley, and is instantly recognisable on screen having starred in the Maze Runner series of films as the main character Theresa. She is also making waves for her role alongside Zac Efron in the Ted Bundy biopic Extremely Wicked, Shockingly Evil and Vile. Crawl is also something of a reunion as she teams up with Barry Pepper who plays her father, having acted with him in Maze Runner: the Death Cure. Directed by respected Frenchman Alexandre Aja, the action and horror is non-stop!

HOTEL LAST RESORT VIOLENT FEMMES “I don’t change the chords any more, the chords change by themselves.” And with that line, underpinned by a strumming guitar, the Violent Femmes latest track, Hotel Last Resort, kicks off. It’s also the title of their new album release, out in July, the band’s 10th. The band’s bassist, Brian Ritche is already quoted: “I think it’s probably the best since Hallowed Ground. Which is a long time. It’s just a very focused album, the songs all hold together. It’s a classic album, in the sense that people should actually sit down and listen to the whole thing. “It’s not too long. It’s short, it’s punchy, it’s solid, it’s to the point, goes a few different directions but comes back to the core. Hopefully you’ll think ‘I want to hear that again.’” The Femmes — original members Gordon Gano and Brian Ritchie, now joined by longtime Horns of Dilemma members John Sparrow and Blaise Garza — recorded the 13-track album in Denver, enlisting help from both Verlaine and pro skateboarder Stefan Janoski, who sings a “rambunctious” new version of I’m Nothing off 1994’s New Times.

FEVER DREAM OF MONSTERS AND MEN This Icelandic band got their start as a quartet which won a music competition in 2010. Since then they added two more members and produced two albums which have hit the world charts in a big way. So the ﬁrst track off their new – third – album has been eagerly anticipated. The record sees them reunite with producer Rich Costey (Muse, Rage Against The Machine. While Costey pushed them towards the more “bombastic” and “out-there” edges of their sound, singer Nanna was keen to stress that Alligator is not particularly representative of their new album as a whole. “This is the odd one out,” she said. “There are elements from that song throughout the album but it’s kind of the black sheep in a way. “For me, this album is a different world entirely. Beneath The Skin was a bit heavier and not as accessible as our ﬁrst album, but this one is more poppy and brighter.”

TALLULAH FEEDER Feeder are in the midst of a resurgence, having scored consecutive Top 10 albums with 2016’s All Bright Electric and the2017 Best Of. But frontman Grant Nicholas reveals that he’s very aware of life in the social media age – and that informed this, their 10th, album. With Feeder having being formed with bandmate Taka Hirose in 1994, Nicholas said in an interview: “Everybody in music who has some success has a fear of the bubble bursting. A lot of things that come with success aren’t always positive. It’s not just about being reviewed by a certain magazine anymore, it’s about being reviewed by virtually anyone who wants to do so.” Nonetheless, he said this is a classic Feeder record. Tallulah was created during a particularly busy and productive period in the Feeder camp, with a new generation of fans emerging at shows and festivals in support of the Best Of album. Its songs evolved very organically, with frontman Grant Nicholas writing on acoustic guitar and playing to his songwriting strengths.

THOMAS HARRIS CARI MORA No fava beans and Chianti appear but the latest work from the creator of Hannibal Lecter and the Silence of the Lambs is suitably dark, obsessive and utterly compelling with its themes of evil and greed. Twenty-ﬁve million dollars in cartel gold lies hidden beneath a mansion on the Miami Beach waterfront. Ruthless men have tracked it for years. Leading the pack is Hans-Peter Schneider. Caretaker, Cari Mora, has escaped from the violence in her native country. She stays in Miami on a wobbly Temporary Protected Status. Beautiful, marked by war, Cari catches the eye of Hans-Peter as he closes in on the treasure. But Cari Mora has surprising skills, and her will to survive has been tested before. No other writer in the last century has conjured those monsters with more terrifying brilliance than Thomas Harris. Cari Mora, his sixth novel, is the long-awaited return of an American master.

ELLIE AND THE HARPMAKER HAZEL PRIOR Dan Hollis lives alone, in a remote barn hidden in the woods on Exmoor. He leads a simple life and takes great pleasure in the small things – he counts the toadstools on his morning walk (317), he cuts his sandwiches into triangles, he spends his days in the workshop at the bottom of the 17-step staircase. For the past 23 years he has been making harps, carving and shaping it by hand. Then, one day, Exmoor housewife Ellie Jacobs stumbles across the barn by chance as. She’s utterly stunned by the discovery of the enchanting workshop, and Dan gives her the gift of a beautiful cherry wood harp. But Ellie’s controlling husband Clive refuses to let her keep it – and so she begins secret lessons in the barn. Captivated by Dan’s innocent enthusiasm and infectious joy for the countryside, Ellie starts to dream of escaping her loveless marriage – and so begins a story of innocent deception, unintended complications and lifechanging consequences for them all.

DISCLAIMER: All books featured here are supplied by Penquin Random House South A ica

THE WHISPER MAN ALEX NORTH Gripping, moving and brilliantly creepy, this is an outstanding new psychological thriller. If you leave a door half-open, soon you’ll hear the whispers spoken ... Still devastated after the loss of his wife, Tom Kennedy and his young son Jake move to the sleepy village of Featherbank, looking for a fresh start. But Featherbank has a dark past. Fifteen years ago a twisted serial killer abducted and murdered ﬁve young boys. Until he was ﬁnally caught, the killer was known as ‘The Whisper Man’. Of course, an old crime need not trouble Tom and Jake as they try to settle in to their new home. Except that now another boy has gone missing. And then Jake begins acting strangely. He says he hears a whispering at his window ...

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RESPONSIBILITY |

WOOD BURNERS

KEEP THE HOME FIRES BURNING COMEDIENNE ELLEN DE GENERES JOKED THAT TAKING A NAP IN A FIREPLACE IS GUARANTEED TO MAKE ONE SLEEP LIKE A LOG ... BUT THERE’S MORE TO FIRE AND WOOD-BURNING STOVES THAN MEETS THE EYE.

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lames have the power to mesmerise, whether they’re behind glass in a closed wood burning unit or open in a ﬁreplace or even an outdoor ﬁrepit. The constant movement, changing shapes and colours keep the eye drawn to them while the body relishes the warmth and heat being given off. More and more South African home owners are opting to install wood burners to heat their residences during the cold winters. This is practical in more than one respect since it allows people to become more self sufficient while not having to rely on electricity for heating and in the long run is cheaper. Gas is another offthe-grid option but it doesn’t heat a room or house as effectively as a wood burner

and it often happens that at peak demand periods – like cold winters – supplies can be somewhat sporadic. So what are the questions one needs to ask before opting to buy a wood burning stove? The ﬁrst one is whether the unit should be cast iron or the more modern welded steel versions. Cast iron is obviously heavier and more expensive but is somewhat more robust and durable because of its construction. Steel units are invariably welded and offer more contemporary styling which is why so many buyers/designers/ architects opt for them. They are just as robust but are somewhat lighter and relatively cheap. They have the added

benefit of heating up faster – but then they also cool off faster. So cast iron stoves might be slower to heat up but will retain that heat longer. It’s important to match the size of the stove to the dimensions of the space you want to heat. Go shopping armed with the dimensions of your room. It’ll help when working out the most efficient heat source for the space. Ceiling height is also a factor to take into consideration – especially if you have double volume space in a living area, for example. Life might not come with any guarantees but a wood burning stove certainly will! Most suppliers will include a 10 year guarantee on the shell or external casing of the stove. The internal workings – the actual firebox and components – might well need replacing at some point. MAINTENANCE Remember that this is not a passive investment: maintenance is required and cleaning is essential. Not just a daily or weekly disposal of the ash pan but an annual service of the unit to ensure that it is kept in good working order. And the amount of ash the stove generates depends on how frequently it’s used and also how efficiently the fire burns. Some stoves need to have the ash removed after each use while others can see action for a full week before the ash receptacle needs to be cleared. (And in another environmental benefit, this fine ash is also a useful addition to any home compost heap.) It’s recommended that wood burners are serviced at least every second year. Professionals will conduct a chimney sweep of the flue or steel piping which vents the smoke and gas from the stove to ensure there is no creosote or soot build-up on the inside. At the same time, they’ll check all seals, the state of the firebox and will even touch up any rust spots should they occur. “The most important thing,” said Verona Noble of the Woodstove & Kitchen Company in Cape Town, “is the wood you burn. It must be dry and well seasoned.

And it must be a soft wood – not a hard wood.” She said blue gum and black wattle were ideal for closed units with the added benefit being that these trees are considered alien invasives in South Africa. “Kameeldoringhout and other hard woods are what you use in a ‘binnebraai’ because they offer slow-burning coals for cooking whereas gum and wattle burn dry and turn to ash.” Wood that is green or unseasoned contains a high percentage of moisture which not only burns inefficiently, producing less heat, but it can also lead to soot deposits or clogging of the flue – and that can be a fire hazard. An easy way of checking if the wood is seasoned is to try and remove any bark. If it’s dry and peels off easily, it’s old. Hard to get off? Give it six months more before tossing it into the fire. What you get from a closed system fireplace over a traditional open fireplace is efficiency, safety and economical wood usage (using a third of the wood) with an excellent heat output. Closed systems combust 75 to 85% more effectively than open fires. The efficiency comes from burning the fuel source or wood more successfully while the metal flue or vent pipe helps to heat the air as the smoke and heat travel upwards. Because it’s more efficient, there are less emissions or smoke, less ash to clean up and it delivers more heat per unit of wood to the home. It’s better for the environment and is also the most cost efficient in the long run. In South Africa, the choice of flue is only between stainless steel or not but important to note is that when it runs through a floor or wall, it should be a double-walled column, with a noncombustible lining. In an online tutorial on YouTube one architect said the simplest and most direct approach is best. Keep it as practical as possible. As a rule of thumb, where the flue exits the roof or wall it should extend at least a metre from the exterior

surface and also be topped with a rain cap. Be aware of the clearances from internal surfaces such as walls and cupboards. There are some scary videos online of cowboy contractors in the United States and Britain who have run the flue right through built-in cupboards! That’s a recipe for disaster ... It’s just a matter of time before those cupboards catch fire because the temperatures given off by the stove and flue can be extreme. There are minimum standards that fitment professionals will be aware of. The closer you place the stove to the wall, the more protection the wall is going to require. And don’t forget the floor! It’s very important to ensure that the stove rests on a noncombustible surface – like tile, concrete, stone or brick. Another architect’s tip is wood storage. Plan for it. Don’t make it an afterthought. The integrated bins provided in some stove units are quite impractical and are generally too small – no matter how pretty they look in the catalogue! Consider making wood storage part of the room decor, either in the form of recessed concrete bins, wrought iron stands or wicker baskets or wooden tubs. The final element to consider is ventilation. South African homes are generally built more to remain cool because of our hot summers and consequently leak heat. But if a wood stove is burned for a few hours each evening, it’s fine.

“We no longer build fireplaces for physical warmth. We build them for the warmth of the soul; we build them to dream by, to hope by, to home by.” – Pulitzer prize winning author and playwright, Edna Ferber. Should it be a particularly cold day and the fire is lit early in the day – and kept burning all day, the heat build-up will be significant. Then it’s important that a window or two are kept open for adequate ventilation of the room. J U L / AU G 2 0 1 9

LEXICOGRAPHY |

the future and to the past) are a semantic delight. Most contranyms are also homonyms (as opposed to hominins, our paleontological forebears; though both are as difficult to say out loud as red lorry, yellow lorry) as they are pronounced the same way. For interest’s sake, heteronyms are words that are spelled the same way, but are pronounced differently, and have different meanings (lead pipe vs lead singer).

DOUBLE-EDGED (S)WORDS “RAISE YOUR WORDS, NOT YOUR VOICE. IT IS RAIN THAT GROWS FLOWERS, NOT THUNDER,” SAID THE HERALDED 13TH CENTURY POET, JURIST AND SUFI MYSTIC RUMI. JOSEPHINE BESTIC AGREES. The signs are there – words provide direction and guidance, but what if one word means different things?

s a nerdy introvert whose parents kept her from Port Elizabeth’s “children who were rough”, my youth was spent skipping school to sneak off to the library where I’d devour everything from Asterix to Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, with a spot of Teach Yourself Cyrillic or How to Become a Royal Marine thrown in for light relief. Unsurprisingly, I emerged into callow adulthood with a prodigious vocabulary but, for many, many years, not much of an outlet. Anyone who has seen Keenan Ivory Wayans’s hilarious spoof from In Living Color on the United Negro Scholarship Fund will

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know. YouTube it: it’s teenage me in prison, in a fez, spewing infinite non sequiturs with no-one around to appreciate them. A secondary benefit though, is an enduring obsession for whimsical words. Recently, a typical Monday daydream led to the epiphany that ‘resignation’ meant leaving, or stoically staying. What? Quickly forgetting the week’s woes, I started wondering how many other words are as two-faced. A long, finely-honed list, it turns out. Contranyms, or Janus words (after the Roman god of, amongst other things, duality, who is depicted as having two faces, simultaneously looking to

Here are a few contranyms that caught my imagination. Bolt: to run from; to close or lock Cleave: to split; to stick fast to Enjoin: urge a person to do something; legally prohibit them from doing so Fine: Exceptional; adequate (you just visualised the eye roll that goes with the latter, right?) Peer: a member of the highest aristocratic social order; an equal Quantum: Smallest particle; significant amount Refrain: when something is repeated (in a song); to stop doing something Rock: immovable object; shaking motion Sanction: approve; boycott Splice: to separate; to join together There are many more, though some are debatable – one list I found asserts that literally can be virtually or actually. Fine. But I’m leaving that one for the millennials. In researching these words, I learned a new one: the lawyers among you will know quiddity as a quibble or trivial matter, but it can also mean the very essence of an object. Maybe you knew that too? An exciting day for me, nonetheless. Author Isaac Babel famously said, “No iron spike can pierce a human heart as icily as a period in the right place”. Or a well-considered linguistic thrust, as it turns out. In my book, if a thoughtful vocabulary is the armoury of language, then contranyms are right up there with rapiers and épées. En garde! And I’m off to my next lesson.

T E C H N O LO GY

GET YOUR

GOURMET GEEK ON FOOD IS THE MOST INSTAGRAMMABLE THING GOING ON SOCIAL MEDIA. ANY RESTAURANT VISIT WILL REVEAL AVERAGE JOE AND JOAN TAKING SNAPS OF THEIR STEAK, TOFU BURGER OR SUSHI WITH A CAMERA PHONE. BUT WHAT IF YOU’RE SERIOUS ABOUT FOOD DAVID BOWMAN ASKS?

FOR TRUE FOODIES ONLY: THE APP This is the go-to app for all serious foodies: a trusted community of great restaurants, top chefs, sommeliers AND foodies! The app features video cooking classes with professionals from Top Culinary Schools Restaurant Guide. All the restaurants are based and selected on chefs’ recommendations, so you can see where chefs eat in their downtime. Tasting and food pairing notes form part of the wine database while a Chef Directory introduces chefs and sommeliers by country, all nominated by peers to be included on this list of over 3 000. This is the ﬁrst global foodie network in eight languages, and includes South Africa.

FOODILY Foodily is the world’s largest social recipe network. You can discover and share any recipe on the web and use Foodily to keep track of all your favourite recipes in one box. Increase your repertoire daily by following friends and favourite chefs. Discover other foodies with similar tastes by following celebrity chefs, bloggers and cookbook authors. In the advanced search tab one can ﬁnd recipes by ingredient or diet type (like gluten-free or low GI). Keep track of what you like from every recipe site by creating personalized lists of weekly dinners and special occasions.

FOODION Hook up with industry professionals such as chefs, service staff, sommeliers, bartenders, producers and restaurant creators. Here you can post and share food-related images, including your own work, as well as those you discover in your own exploration. Food professionals from all over the world post images of their new creations and spread information about local food ingredients. It’s possible to follow your favourite chefs as well as discover exciting new talent. Not only can you draw inspiration from their work but you can engage them if you have any questions about ingredients or unfamiliar food. Fresh original interviews and cooking videos are loaded every week.

FOODIE – CAMERA FOR LIFE The Foodie camera app is the essential companion for the modern sociable foodie. Discover fun and fast ways to spice up the perfect memory of the perfect meal. There are over 30 professional quality live ﬁlters to apply, and it includes an easy and accurate smart guide feature for taking top-down photos of food, while capturing the perfect atmosphere and mood when taking food photos from above. Shoot vivid videos of your dining adventures and apply tasteful live ﬁlters. Once perfected, share on a myriad of social network platforms for all to see, and drool over! J U L / AU G 2 0 1 9

in the next issue of

CHAMPAGNE TASTE The state of French ﬁzz in SA GLASS HALF FULL? What’s the buzz on beer glasses CELEBRATING FOOD HERITAGE Nostalgia in the form of Chappies bubblegum, Ouma rusks and Mrs Balls chutney

BROUGHT TO YOU BY

W W W .T O P S AT S P A R . C O . Z A

CONGRATULATIONS

to the previous issue’s winner of Marlene van der Westhuizen’s Plate: Ursula Howard from Edenvale Gauteng 70

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LO O P D O P |

DARLING SE HILLBROW HIERDIE UITGAWE SE LOOPDOP VAT VOORWAAR ’N LEKKER LANG DRAAI. SO LANK, ONS LYS SOMMER TWEE TOPSE IN TWEE PLEKKE.

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n 1996 het ek ’n Belgiese meisie gehad. Hilde van Hove. Sy het op ’n dag ’n rugsak gepak en die wêreld ingevaar. In Kaapstad aangekom, het sy eers op die berg verlief geraak en later op my. Ahem ... In dieselfde jaar het ’n wonderlike ding sy ontstaan gehad in die Weskusdorpie genaamd Darling. Die verwaarloosde ou treinstasie het herrys as Pieter DirkUys se Evita se Perron. Dit was ’n nuutjie en mense moes eers aan die idee gewoond raak. As Pieter Dirk-Uys ’n Evita Bezuidenhoudtkonsert daar aanbied, dan kom die mense. Maar alhoewel die Perron elke naweek oop was, kon Pieter nie al die shows behartig het nie. Dus is daar heeltyd ander shows op roterende basis aangebied. In die middel van die winter van einste ’96 het vier Vlaamse vriende van Hilde na Suid-Afrika gereis. Sy was in daardie stadium ’n gekwaliﬁseerde SATOER-gids en het ’n skitterende reiservaring vir haar vriende georganiseer. Sy was veral goed om altyd nuwe, onverwagte en verrassende goed te ontdek. En het daarom oral goeie informante gehad. So kry sy ’n boodskap van een van dié informante in Darling dat Johannes Kerkorrel op kort kennisgewing besluit het om ’n show te kom doen in Evita se Perron. Onmiddellik weet sy dit

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sal ’n hoogtepunt vir die Belge gewees. Veral met Johannes se konneksie, vriendskap en saamsing met Stef Bos (wat in daardie jaar nog in België was). En sy bespreek ’n tafel vir ses. Die show was gereël om nege-uur te begin na al die gaste nou lekker geëet het en behaaglik terugsit met ’n wyntjie. Dus het ons so net na sewe aangesit. Kos en wyn is bestel en dinge loop klopdisselboom. Ek weet nou nie of dit was dat Johannes te vinnig besluit het om ’n show aan te bied nie en of hy dalk in daai jaar nog te uitgesproke en liberaal was vir die kuise Darling-mense of wat nie, maar hier teen nege-uur is dit nog net ons ses in die saaltjie. Teen kwart-oor het Johannes op die verhogie langs die grote vleuelklavier gaan sit. Hy het deur sy speellys geblaai en so kort-kort hoopvol opgekyk of daar nie dalk ’n bus laatkommers opgedaag het nie. Ek was oortuig hy sou die show uit verleentheid maar los, maar nee, Kerkorrel was ’n pro. Hy het bloot ses stoele in ’n halfmaan om sy klavier drapeer, ’n vars bottel rooi oopgemaak en ons genooi

om saam met hom om daai klavier konsert te hou. Met dié dat vyf van sy ses gaste Vlaminge was, was die gort gaar. Hy was die man wat vir Stef Bos Suid-Afrika toe gebring het. Hulle het saam die liedjie “Awuwa” geskryf. En Johannes sing dit vir ons. Net vir ons. Sy voel die ritme van die nag En tyd het nou vir haar gaan staan En al wat sy wil doen is Sy wil dansen, dansen, Altyd blywe dansen Vra haar niet waarom Sy dans tot die oggend kom En ons sing saam en almal wil blywe dansen. Lank na twaalfuur speel Johannes ’n lang stuk sielvol op die klavier. Met die laaste note wat oor die leë Perron wegrol, kyk hy vir ons. “Dankie vrinne, dit was maklik die beste show van my lewe.” Hy maak klaar met my gunsteling. Seker maar omdat ek daar gebore is. En dis lank na twaalfuur En die Hillbrow-toring stuur Sy sein in die nag, sy sein in die nag Sy sein vir die mense wat wag, o ... En gee, gee, gee. Gee, gee, gee Jou sente, jou drome, jou toekoms vol gate Gee jou hart vir Hillbrow Ja, gee jou hart vir Hillbrow.

Teen kwart-oor het Johannes op die verhogie langs die grote vleuelklavier gaan sit. Hy het deur sy speellys geblaai en so kort-kort hoopvol opgekyk

Cheers Vol. 43 July / Aug 2019

Articles inside

LOOPDOP

APPS

DUALITY OF MEANING

FISHING

EMILE JOUBERT

BOOK GIVEAWAY

LOG FIRES

ENTERTAINMENT

HOT NEWS

LIVE IT UP

WORLD CUP RUGBY

BREAKAWAYS

VALUE VS WORTH

HOT BITES

BEER’S BOUNTY

TASTING: Brandy

WINTER WARMERS

NEWS SCOOP

PERFECT SERVE