Bel Guest Summer 2013 by miroslav zeljug

Belgrade and Serbia Visitors’ Magazine

Volume 13, SUMMER 2013

free copy

INTERVIEW PETER HANDKE BELGRADE TOP ATTRACTIONS

TOS RECOMMENDS THE RADAN AREA CLUSTER SAVAMALA REVEALING THE FORGOTTEN CITY

EXHIBITION ROMAN HERITAGE IN SERBIA CITY EVENTS & SIGHTSEEING

IN THIS ISSUE / IZ SADRŽAJA 6 S AVA M A L A 6

REVEALING THE FORGOTTEN CITY OTKRIVANJE ZABORAVLJENOG GRADA 14 BELGRADE TOP ATTRACTIONS

20 INTERVIEW - PETER HANDKE

WRITING IS A SYMBOL OF LIFE PISANJE JE SIMBOL ŽIVOTA 30 L I T E R A R Y G U I D E - J A N K O V E S E L I N O V I Ć

IF YOU’VE FALLEN DOWN, RISE AGAIN AKO SI PAO, TI USTANI OPET 38 T O S R E C O M M E N D S - E X H I B I T I O N

THE BIRTH OF CHRISTIANITY IN THE ROMAN PROVINCES IN THE TERRITORY OF SERBIA RAĐANJE HRIŠĆANSTVA U RIMSKIM PROVINCIJAMA NA TLU SRBIJE 4 8 S I E PA P R E S E N T S

CREATIVE SPACE SERBIA KREATIVNI PROSTOR SRBIJE 5 2 I N T E R V I E W - J O VA N R A D O M I R

SOUL ON A PLATE DUŠA NA TANJIRU 52

58 BELGRADE SIGHTSEEING RAZGLEDANJE BEOGRADA 73 TOS RECOMMENDS - THE RADAN AREA CLUSTER

A MAGIC BALL WORLD SVET IZ ČAROBNE KUGLE

84 BELGRADE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

BEOGRADSKE MEĐUNARODNE ŠKOLE

96 BELGRADE INFO 84

Belgrade&Serbia Visitors’ Magazine Publisher - Izdavač: Izdavačko društvo PONT d.o.o., Beograd Gočka 18 tel./fax 2332-803; mob tel. 063/84 97 582 e-mail: office@belguest.rs, redakcija@belguest.rs www.belguest.rs Copublisher - Suizdavač: Turistička organizacija Beograda, Masarikova 5/IX tel. 3061-410 fax 3061-414 e-mail: office@tob.co.rs www.tob.co.rs Publisher - Izdavač: Milena Mihaljčić, direktor Copublisher - Suizdavač: Dejan Veselinov, direktor Editor-in-chief - Glavni i odgovorni urednik: Dragana Marković Editorial Staff - Redakcija: Milena Mihaljčić, Dragana Marković, Jadranka Đorđević Contributors - Saradnici: Jelena Tasić, Jovo Anđić, Dragana Barjaktarević, Aleksandar Miloradović, Viktorija Ćirić Photographs- Fotografije: Đorđe Rusić, Darimir Banda, Branko Jovanović, Nikola Vukojević Translation - Prevod: Đorđe Janković Serbian language editor - Lektor za srpski: Mila Barjaktarević English language editor - Lektor za engleski: Vladimir Petrović, Ida Hercules Information - Informacije: Pont i Turistička organizacija Beograda Marketing: PONT Design&Layout - Dizajn i prelom: Miroslav Zeljug Print - Štampa: Birograf, Beograd BelGuest quarterly is registered with the Republic of Serbia media registry no: 651-03-168/2000-03 BelGuest magazin upisan je u registar glasila Republike Srbije pod brojem: 651-03-168/2000-03 © copyright: Pont & Belgrade Tourist Organization Front Page - Naslovna strana: Graffiti in Travnička Street, Savamala, detail, photo: Đorđe Rusić CIP - Katalogizacija u publikaciji Narodna biblioteka Srbije, Beograd 338.4 BelGuest : Belgrade visitors’ magazine / editor-in-chief Dragana Marković. - 2001, winter/spring - Beograd : Pont, 2001(Beograd : Birograf). - 28 cm Dostupno i na: http://www.belguest.rs. Tromesečno. - Sa specijalnim izdanjem 2010: Događaji Beograda ISSN 1451-6446 = Bel Guest COBISS.SR-ID 71794956

E D I T O R I A L

U V O D N I K

Dear fellow residents of Belgrade and dear guests, Belgrade, one of the oldest cities in Europe, of extraordinary history and a very turbulent past, always of interest to tourists and numerous visitors, is in a position to surprise you and stir up your spirits. Through a number of programmes organised by the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade (TOB), we recommend you to visit and discover the ancient Kalemegdan and Belgrade Fortress, Knez Mihailova Street and the city centre, the largest Orthodox temple in the Balkans, the Temple of Saint Sava, as well as the old part of Zemun. Experience the soul of old Belgrade with music in the relaxed bohemian quarter of Skadarlija, get down to the river and the old Savamala, fully discover innovative forms of creative spots, the meeting places for designers, artists, creative, modernists, dreamers about the more beautiful and better, that keep the memory of the rich history, the builders and benefactors who were building Belgrade. The Secretariat for the Economy of the City of Belgrade and the Tourist Organisation are investing maximum efforts so that Belgrade, with its old palaces and public edifices, numerous museums, Topčider, ambient parts and heritage of different eras and cultures, be a centre of cultural tourism in this part of Europe, especially this year when through a number of programmes Serbia is celebrating a big anniversary – seventeen centuries of the Edict of Milan, which established freedom of Christian faith. The offer is also becoming richer and richer for the young and adventurous ones, who will find entertainment in green oases, at the Great War Island, in a kayaking adventure, discovering underground dungeons of Belgrade, with relaxation or adrenaline programmes at Ada Ciganlija lake or Avala mountain, enjoying the view of Serbia from the Avala Tower, attending the Avala Cultural Summer or more than 150 programmes showing the diversity of heritage during the event “European Heritage Days”. Belgrade, known for its hospitality, unique by the richness and diversity of its openness, is awaiting you. Stanija Višekruna Deputy Secretary at the Secretariat for the Economy of the City of Belgrade

Dragi sugrađani i dragi gosti, Beograd, jedan od najstarijih evropskih gradova, nesvakidašnje istorije i burne prošlosti, uvek će biti zanimljiv turistima i brojnim posetiocima, u mogućnosti da vas iznenadi i oduševi. Koristeći se mnogobrojnim programima Turističke organizacije Beograda obiđite ga i upoznajte drevni Kalemegdan i Beogradsku tvrđavu, Knez Mihailovu ulicu i centar grada, najveći pravoslavni hram na Balkanu, Hram Svetog Save, staro jezgro Zemuna. Osetite dušu starog Beograda opušteno uz muziku u boemskoj Skadarliji, spustite se do reka i stare Savamale, otkrijte potpuno nove oblike kreativnih mesta, stecište dizajnera, muzičara, kreativaca, modernista, sanjara o lepšem i boljem, koji čuvaju sećanje na bogatu prošlost, na neimare i zadužbinare koji su gradili Beograd. Sekretarijat za privredu grada Beograda i Turistička organizacija ulažu maksimalne napore da Beograd, sa starim dvorovima i gradskim zdanjima, brojnim muzejima, Topčiderom, ambijentalnim celinama i nasleđem različitih epoha i kultura, bude centar kulturnog turizma ovog dela Evrope, naročito ove godine kada se raznovrsnim programima u Srbiji obeležava 17 vekova od donošenja Milanskog edikta, kojim je utemeljena sloboda hrišćanstva. Ponuda je sve bogatija i zanimljivija i za mlade i avanturiste, koji će zabavu naći na zelenim oazama, na Velikom ratnom ostrvu, u kajak avanturi, otkrivajući lagume podzemnog Beograda, uz opuštanje ili adrenalin programe na Adi Ciganliji ili Avali, uživajući u pogledu na Srbiju sa Avalskog tornja i Avalskom kulturnom letu ili u 150 programa koji otkrivaju raznovrsnost nasleđa tokom manifestacije Dani evropske baštine. Beograd Vas čeka prepoznatljiv po gostoprimstvu, jedinstven po bogatstvu i raznolikosti ponuda i svojoj otvorenosti.

Skupština grada Beograda City Assembly of Belgrade

Stanija Višekruna Zamenik sekretara Sekretarijata za privredu Grada Beograda Turistička organizacija Beograda Tourist Organization of Belgrade

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REVEALING THE FORGOTTEN CITY At first glance, the cracked façades in a cloud of smoke from heavy traffic, but the deposits of soot and time conceal a timeless treasure trove full of hidden details, stories and big names. Some will say that it’s the ugliest, others that it’s the most beautiful part of the city. Savamala certainly is the most unusual neighbourhood and one of the most charming tourist attractions that Belgrade offers.

avamala is often referred to as “the invisible city”. It is invisible because it lacks beauty at first glance and because walking around this area means that you have to avoid the trucks and stumble over railway tracks. Once this proving ground is overcome, a different Savamala is revealed to you, the one that’s filled with the smell of Turkish delight from the shop of the candy maker

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Bosiljčić, the one with laughter and jazz coming from the hidden gardens, the one sharing its concrete streets with street artists, the one whose walls still remember the liberation of Belgrade from the Ottoman rule as well as the Saturday night parties at the clubs “Mladost” (Youth) and “Ludost” (Craziness)... It is this other Savamala, which is both sentimental and modern at the same

time, that makes it worth exploring. Savamala sits in the shadow of Branko’s Bridge and Belgrade’s beautiful, old buildings along the right bank of the river Sava. This river, which has often washed the streets of Savamala, gave its name to the neighbourhood. The second part of the name comes from the Turkish word mahala, later shortened to mala, meaning neighbourhood.

was opened on 16th December 1934. Earlier that autumn, the King aleksandar I Karađorđević was assassinated in Marseille. Originally, the bridge was named to his honour – King aleksandar’s Bridge. The spectacular opening ceremony involved 700 horsemen from the royal cavalry crossing the bridge. However, the bridge was short-lived. To prevent the German invasion of Belgrade, it was mined by the royal army, and suffered a complete destruction in the allied bombing of 1944. Only the stone pillars survived, which were used after the war to build the Brotherhood and Unity Bridge, known popularly as Branko’s Bridge. as Belgrade was a fast developing city and the traffic grew heavier, the width of the bridge had to be doubled in the 1970s. Savamala is reachable from various directions, but the most beautiful approach is the one from Branko’s Bridge, commanding the view of nearly all of the area. From the left, the passengers are hailed by the city’s guardian – Guillaume alby Remed’s mural “La Santa del Belgrado”. On the right, one can see the bareheaded Spanish House and the red lanterns of the centre for culture “Grad” (City). The Spanish House was built around the year 1880. at the time, it was one of the most magnificent palaces in Savamala. It had been used by the Port of Belgrade, then as a customs house, then as a warehouse; it was also used by the Serbian Shipping Company, and for a while it served as the Museum of Inland Waterway Shipping. During the past fifty years, it has had five different tenants, because the reconstruction work has often been

halted for financial reasons. Today this roofless, windowless building is the headquarters of the Urban Incubator project, aimed at the revival of Savamala. The plan is to build a glass art pavilion at the location in the course of the next year, and to gradually turn it into a venue for Goethe Institute programmes. Right next to the Old Customs House used to be its warehouse. The old warehouse was built in 1884, and since 2009 it has housed the centre for culture “Grad”, at the initiative of the Cultural Front of Belgrade and the Felix Meritis foundation from amsterdam. The authentic, rustic ambience of the old warehouse, the off-the-wall interventions by the Remake creative artists, the memorable fashion details in Gradstor and Takeaway Fashion, the upstairs gallery, the cosy garden and the amateur cuisine on Deli Mondays are just some of the reasons this is one of the favourite spots of the city’s artists and art lovers. KARAĐORĐEVA STREET Savamala’s main street. Noisy and dusty. an artery for the inbound road traffic from Pančevo Bridge. There are also the river Sava, the keen anglers and the smart restaurants overlooking the confluence, the Dream Factory, Mikser House, the mysterious underground passages as well as the neglected, romantic façades. The street was named after Karađorđe, the leader of the First Serbian Uprising, who advanced down this very street on the Belgrade Fortress with his rebels seeking to liberate it from the Ottomans.

Project Studio Krishka: Ghost People of Savamala Nobody knows the exact boundaries of the area. It once used to stretch all the way to Slavija. Last year, German architects cooperating with GoetheGuerilla asked the locals to indicate the borders of Savamala on a map. Each made a different outline, guided by their own personal sense of geography. However, no one left out the three keystones of Savamala – Branko’s Bridge, Karađorđeva Street and Gavrila Principa Street. BRANKO’S BRIDGE During the day it sways with traffic, at night it swings with the music flowing from Brankow, a club located at the foot of the bridge. Most of the sleepy passengers and wide-awake clubbers haven’t got the remotest idea what kind of history surrounds their daily routes and night partying. Branko’s bridge was the first road bridge over the Sava; the first bridge built without intermediate supports; the first bridge crossed by a tram. It

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Graffiti in Travnička Street Mikser Festival: Savamala in transit The largest regional festival of creativity and innovation took place at the end of May and ithe beginning of June in Savamala on a swathe of land alongside the river from the Bristol Hotel to the Concrete Hall (Betonhala), spanning across more than 15 hectares of the city’s area. The aim of the festival was to revitalise the city’s riverbanks and to draw Belgraders to the Sava in massive numbers. Last year, Mikser examined the present state of Savamala, and this year it deals with its future. The topic of this year’s festival is “Transit”, and the goal is to discuss the identity of Savamala with experts, the City of Belgrade and the Savski Venac municipality, the local community and creative youth, as well as to outline the development scheme for this area of great cultural significance to the city. In 1833, Serbia gained autonomy and the government was based in Belgrade. Prince Miloš Obrenović decided to build a modern city on the bank of the Sava, modelled on the architecture of European river cities such as vienna or Budapest. He had some hundred hovels pulled down, and their tenants relocated to the Palilula municipality. Savamala attracted merchants and artisans, so the area became the main commercial hub and home to the elites of the city. The buildings that sprang up on the foundations of the tumbledown houses retain their historical and cultural significance to this day. The most important of these is the former building of the Belgrade Cooperative. This monumental corner building was constructed by the investor Luka Ćelović from the plans drawn up by the architects andra Stevanović and Nikola Nestorović. Its construction employed a state-of-

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the-art technique utilising reinforced concrete, and the façades were made of faux rock. after the Second World War, it changed many hands and purposes, its longest lasting tenant being the Serbian Geological Institute. The Geological Institute was once declared the most beautiful building in Belgrade. Many Belgraders would still agree with this statement, even though the building has long since lost its dazzle. In recent decades it has been additionally ravaged by its use as a venue for parties, New Year’s Eve celebrations, festivals, and by the use of its derelict rooms as filming locations. The famous gems of Belgrade’s architecture dating back to the beginning of the last century on the square that was once home to the Small Marketplace – the Geological Institute, Hotel Bristol and vučo’s House – have recently been joined by

Mikser House. This modernist edifice was conceived as a focal point of the city’s future creative industry, as a haunt for designers, musicians and dreamers of a better and prettier Belgrade. It houses a design shop where visitors can buy the creations of 60 designers from around the Balkans, ranging from furniture and couture to wine and delicacies. There’s also the Mikser Canteen with its scrumptious and tastefully presented Balkan dishes, a coffee shop, a stage for theatre and music events, a common work area, and a children’s corner. GAVRILA PRINCIPA STREET The second most important street, right after Karađorđeva Street, is Gavrila Principa Street. It was first called Savamalska, then Bosanska, and today it is named after Gavrilo Princip, who lived here in a small, single-storey house while he was employed laying cobblestones in Karađorđeva Street. Gavrilo Princip lived at several locations in this part of the city. When he arrived in Belgrade in the spring of 1912, he took up residence at 12 Carice Milice Street. afterwards, he moved to 47 Lomina Street, only to settle eventually in Bosanska Street. Gavrila Principa Street was the main commercial district of this part of Savamala. The only surviving artisan shop that dates back to the time is the candy shop “Bosiljčić”. It was founded in 1936, and to this day the candy is made by hand, using

Urban InCubator: Who does the city belong to? The Goethe Institute’s unique project called Urban Incubator is aimed at the development of Savamala. In this project, Savamala’s future won’t be determined by urban planners, politicians and investors, but by the artists, architects and various activists, who will put in a year’s worth of effort to revitalise the area. The project also involves the residents of Savamala and urges them to consider the future of their neighbourhood. the original, unaltered recipes. The boarding up of shops was brought about by the pressures of industrial manufacturing, the crisis and the impoverishment of the population in the last twenty years, as well as the old craftsmen’s descendants’ lack of interest in the trades. apart from the commercial and artisan shops, the street was also home to many taverns. The only one that remains to this day is Manak’s House, albeit with a different purpose. Manak’s House is one of the few surviving monuments of Balkan oriental architecture. apart from the edifice, the city centre contains only a few other examples of this architectural style, such as the tavern “Question Mark”, Princess Ljubica’s Residence, the Museum of vuk and Dositej... Manak’s House was built around the year 1830. It was named after its owner

Manak Mihailović, a merchant and Macedonian immigrant. It is located on an old thoroughfare that used to connect varoš Gate and Savamala. The reason for the irregular shape of the house was the plot of land on which it was originally built. The ground floor contained a tavern and a bakery, and later a post office and a shop, while the second floor contained the owner’s living quarters. Today it houses a section of the Ethnographic Museum with a rich ethnographic collection by Hristifor Crnilović containing approximately 2,600 objects of great cultural significance, mostly traditional costumes and jewellery. apart from the valuable exhibition of garments and ornaments, the lower, basement

level of Manak’s House also contains workshops dedicated to the study of certain traditional trades and folk crafts. all of this is just a small part of what Savamala has to offer behind its fences and windows, just a slight nudge to immerse you in an exploration of a somewhat forgotten city, an invitation to create new narratives around Belgrade’s lovely Sava Slope. Because it exists only if we talk about it. DrAGANA BArJAKtAreVIĆ photographs: ĐorĐe ruSIĆ & DrAGANA BArJAKtAreVIĆ

Wall painting in Mostarska Street

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Project of the Mixer festival: Red Bull Door Deco

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OTKRIVANJE ZABORAVLJENOG GRADA Na prvi pogled napukle fasade u oblaku dima teškog saobraćaja, a u naslagama čađi i vremena krije se svevremena riznica prepuna skrivenih detalja, priča i velikih imena. Neko će reći najružniji, neko najlepši deo grada. Savamala svakako je najneobičniji kvart i jedna od najšarmantnijih turističkih ponuda Beograda.

esto Savamalu nazivaju nevidljivim gradom. Nevidljiva je zato što nije lepa na prvi pogled, zato što se hodom po njoj izbegavaju kamioni i preskaču šine. Kada se taj poligon savlada, otkriva se jedna druga Savamala, koja miriše na ratluk bombondžije Bosiljčića, iz čijih ušuškanih bašta dopiru smeh i džez, koja je svoj beton prepustila uličnim umetnicima, čiji zidovi pamte oslobođenje Beograda od Turaka, ali i subotnji noćni provod u Mladosti i Ludosti... Zbog te druge Savamale, sentimentalne, a istovremeno moderne, vredi krenuti u istraživanje. Smeštena je u senci Brankovog mosta i starih beogradskih velelepnih građevina na desnoj obali Save. Po toj reci, koja je često umivala njene ulice, Savamala je i dobila ime. Drugi deo naziva potiče od turske reči mahala, kasnije skraćene u mala, što znači susedstvo. Niko ne zna koje su tačne granice te četvrti. Nekada se prostirala čak do Slavije. Prošle godine su nemačke arhitekte koje su sarađivale sa Gete-Gerilom pitale stanovnike da na karti označe granice Savamale. Svako od njih je drugačije obeležio, vođen nekom ličnom geografijom. Međutim, tri noseće tačke Savamale niko nije izostavio – Brankov most, Karađorđevu ulicu i ulicu Gavrila Pirncipa. BRANKOV MOST Danju se ljulja zbog gradskog saobraćaja, noću se njiše uz muziku iz kluba Brankow, smeštenog u jednom od stubova mosta. većina uspavanih putnika i budnih „klabera“ nema predstavu o tome na kakvu istoriju se nadovezuju njihova dnevna ruta ili noćni provod. To je prvi drumski most preko Save. Prvi most koji je izgrađen bez potpornog stuba na sredini. Prvi most preko kojeg je prešao tramvaj. Otvoren je 16. decembra 1934. godine. Iste jeseni u Marselju je izvršen atentat na kralja aleksandra I Karađorđevića. U njegovu slavu dobija i svoje prvo

Building of the Geological Institute (Geozavod) ime – most Kralja aleksandra. U toku pompeznog otvaranja preko njega je prešla svečana kraljevska konjica, koju je činilo 700 konjanika. Međutim, bio je kratkog veka. Da bi sprečila prodor Nemaca u Beograd, kraljevska vojska morala je da minira most, a u savezničkom bombardovanju 1944. bio je potpuno uništen. Jedino su kameni stubovi preživeli razaranja, pa je na njima nakon rata sagrađen most Bratstva i jedinstva, u narodu nazvan Brankov most. Beograd se brzo razvijao, saobraćaj postajao gušći, pa je sedamdesetih godina most morao duplo da se proširi. U Savamalu se može stići sa raznih strana, a najlepši je prilaz upravo sa Brankovog mosta, jer pogled sa njega hvata skoro ceo kraj. Sa leve strane putnike pozdravlja zaštitnica grada – mural Gijoma Olbi Remeda „La Santa del Belgrado“. Sa desne

strane uočavaju se gologlava Španska kuća i crveni fenjeri Kulturnog centra Grad. Španska kuća podignuta je oko 1880. godine. Bila je to tada jedna od najlepših palata u Savamali. Korišćena je za potrebe Beogradskog pristaništa, zatim kao carinarnica, pa skladište, njome se služilo i Srpsko brodarsko društvo, a jedno vreme je bila i Muzej rečnog brodarstva. U poslednjih pedeset godina promenila je pet zakupaca, jer su radovi na rekonstrukciji bili često prekidani zbog nedostatka novca. Danas je ta zgrada bez krova i prozora baza projekta Urban Inkubator, koji se bavi oživljavanjem Savamale. Plan je da u toku naredne godine tu bude postavljen stakleni umetnički paviljon, i da polako postane mesto na kome će se održavati programi Gete instituta. Odmah pored zgrade Stare carinarnice nalazio

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Mixer House Mikser Festival: Savamala u tranzitu Najveći regionalni festival kreativnosti i inovativnosti održan je krajem maja i početkom juna u Savamali, na proširenom potezu uz reku, od hotela Bristol do Beton-hale, na više od 15 hektara gradske površine. U fokusu festivala je revitalizacija gradskog pojasa uz reku i masovni silazak Beograđana na obalu Save. Prošle godine Mikser je ispitivao zatečeno stanje u Savamali, ove godine bavi se njenom budućnošću. Tema ovogodišnjeg festivala je „Tranzit“, a ideja je da se o identitetu Savamale razgovara sa stručnom javnošću, Gradom Beogradom i opštinom Savski venac, lokalnom zajednicom i mladim kreativcima, te da se omeđi put razvoja ove, za kulturni život grada veoma važne četvrti. se i njen magacin. Stari magacin sagrađen je 1884. godine, a od 2009, na inicijativu Kulturnog fronta Beograd i Felix Meritis fondacije iz amsterdama, u njemu je smešten Kulturni centar Grad. autentična rustika starog skladišta, neobične intervencije Rimejk kreativaca, nesvakidašnji modni detalji u Gradstoru i na Modi za poneti, galerija na spratu, malena bašta, amaterska trpeza na Delikatesnom ponedeljku.., samo su neki od razloga zbog kojih je to jedan od omiljenih kutaka gradskih umetnika i onih koji vole umetnost. KARAĐORĐEVA ULICA Glavna ulica Savamale. Bučna i prašnjava. arterija drumskog saobraćaja koji dolazi sa Pančevačkog mosta. ali tu su i Sava, alasi zapetih udica i otmeni restorani s pogledom na ušće, Fabrika snova, Mikser house, misteriozni lagumi i neke zapuštene romantične fasade. Ime je dobila po Karađorđu, vođi Prvog srpskog ustanka, koji je 1806. godine sa svojim ustanicima baš tom ulicom krenuo ka Beogradskoj tvrđavi da je oslobodi od Turaka. Godine 1833. srpska vlast dobija unutrašnju

Summer | Leto 2013 BelGuest

samoupravu u Beogradu. Knez Miloš Obrenović odlučuje da na obali Save izgradi moderan grad po uzoru na arhitekturu evropskih gradova čiji se život odvijao na rekama, poput Beča ili Budimpešte. Naređuje rušenje stotinak udžerica, a njihove žitelje naseljava na teritoriji opštine Palilula. U Savamali se nastanjuju trgovci i zanatlije, te ona postaje glavni trgovački centar i elitni deo grada. Građevine koje su tada nikle na temeljima trošnih kućica i danas imaju veliki istorijski i kulturno-umetnički značaj. Najvažnija od njih je bivša zgrada Beogradske zadruge. Taj monumentalni ugaoni objekat podigao je investitor Luka Ćelović, prema planovima arhitekata andre Stevanovića i Nikole Nestorovića. Zidana je tada najmodernijim građevinskim postupkom, upotrebom armiranog betona, a fasade su obrađene u veštačkom kamenu. Nakon Drugog svetskog rata menja razne namene i korisnike, a najduže se u njoj zadržao Geološki zavod. Geozavod je svojevremeno bio proglašen za najlepšu zgradu u Beogradu. Mnogi Beograđani će se i danas složiti s tim iako je zgrada svoj sjaj odavno izgubila. U poslednjim decenijama

dodatno je ruinirana, jer su u njoj organizovane žurke, proslave novih godina, festivali, snimani filmovi u napuštenim prostorijama. Znamenitim lepoticama beogradske arhitekture s početka prošlog veka – Geozavod, hotel Bristol i vučina kuća, na trgu gde se nekada nalazila Mala pijaca, pridružio se nedavno Mikser house. Modernističko zdanje zamišljeno je kao središte buduće kreativne industrije grada, stecište dizajnera, muzičara, sanjara o lepšem i boljem Beogradu. U njemu se nalazi dizajn-prodavnica u kojoj posetioci mogu da kupe proizvode 60 dizajnera sa Balkana, među njima se može naći sve od nameštaja i garderobe do vina i gurmanskih đakonija. Tu je i Mikser kantina sa ukusnim i posebno dizajniranim balkanskim jelima, zatim kafić, pozornica za predstave i muzički program, zajednički radni prostor i kutak za decu. Lagumi Ispod Karađorđeve ulice postoji splet podzemnih prolaza koji nisu dovoljno istraženi. Kopanje oko 13 tunela započeli su Austrijanci u 18. i nastavili u 19 veku. Reč je o veštačkim pećinama koje su služile kao magacini i „frižideri” onog vremena. Zbog blizine luke i rečnog puta, lagumi na savskoj padini bili su idealni za čuvanje robe, jer je u njima temperatura bila niska i stabilna tokom svih godišnjih doba. Male kule na Kosančićevom vencu nisu ostaci podzemnog grada tvrđave, niti puškarnice kako mnogi Beograđani misle. To su, zapravo, ventilacioni otvori koji su vodili vazduh dvadesetak metara u dubinu laguma kako se u njima ne bi pojavili vlaga i buđ.

ULICA GAVRILA PRINCIPA Odmah posle Karađorđeve, po važnosti dolazi Ulica Gavrila Principa. Najpre se zvala Savamalska, pa Bosanska, a danas nosi ime po Gavrilu Principu, koji je tu živeo u maloj prizemnoj kući dok je radio na kaldrmisanju Karađorđeve ulice. Gavrilo Princip je u tom delu grada promenio nekoliko lokacija. Kada je došao u Beograd, u proleće 1912. godine, nastanio se u Carice Milice 12. Potom se preselio u Lominu 47, da bi se na kraju smestio u Bosanskoj ulici. Ulica Gavrila Principa bila je glavni trgovački kvart u tom delu Savamale. Jedina zanatlijska radnja koja svedoči o tom dobu je bombondžinica „Bosiljčić“. Osnovana je 1936. godine, a sve do danas u njoj se slatkiši proizvode ručno i po originalnoj, neizmenjenoj recepturi. Objašnjenje za gašenje radnji krije se u pritisku industrijskih proizvođača, krizi i osiromašenju društva u poslednjih petnaestak godina, ali i u nezainteresovanosti potomaka starih majstora za njihove zanate. Pored trgovačkih i zanatlijskih radnji, u toj ulici se nalazio i veliki broj kafana. Od starih kafana opstala je jedino Manakova kuća, ali i ona sa izmenjenom namenom. Manakova kuća jedan je od malobrojnih sačuvanih spomenika Balkanske orijentalne arhitekture. Pored nje, u centru grada može se naći još nekoliko primera ovakve arhitekture, recimo kafana „Znak pitanja“, konak kneginje Ljubice, Muzej vuka i Dositeja... Manakova kuća je podignuta oko 1830. godine. Ime je dobila po vlasniku Manaku Mihailoviću, trgovcu, doseljeniku iz Makedonije. Smeštena je na regulacionoj liniji

Bosiljčić candy shop Urban Inkubator: Kome pripada grad? Jedinstveni projekat Gete instituta nazvan Urban Inkubator posvećen je razvoju Savamale. U okviru tog projekta budućnost Savamale neće stvarati urbanisti, političari i investitori, već umetnici, arhitekte i aktivisti različitog profila, koji će godinu dana zajednički ulagati napore u revitalizaciju te četvrti. Projekat uključuje i same žitelje Savamale i podstiče ih da promišljaju o sudbini svoga kraja. stare saobraćajnice koja je povezivala varoš-kapiju i Savamalu. Parcela na kojoj je podignuta kuća uslovila je njen nepravilni oblik. U prizemlju su bile smeštene kafana i pekara, a kasnije pošta i prodavnica, dok su na spratu bile stambene odaje vlasnika. Danas je u njoj ogranak Etnografskog

muzeja sa bogatom etnografskom zbirkom Hristifora Crnilovića, koja sadrži oko 2.600 predmeta velike kulturne vrednosti, uglavnom nošnji i nakita. Pored vredne postavke narodnih nošnji i nakita, u donjem, suterenskom delu Manakove kuće nalaze se i radionice za izučavanje pojedinih tradicionalnih zanata i narodne radinosti. a ovo je tek delić onoga što Savamala krije iza svojih ograda i prozora, tek golicanje da se krene u otkrivanje jednog pomalo zaboravljenog grada, poziv da se lepa savska padina Beograda rekonstruiše u nekim novim pričama. Jer ona i postoji samo onda kad se o njoj priča. DrAGANA BArJAKtAreVIĆ fotografije: ĐorĐe ruSIĆ & DrAGANA BArJAKtAreVIĆ

BelGuest Summer | Leto 2013

HIGHLIGHTS

Belgrade Fortress

Belgrade Fortress and Kalemegdan Park represent an open-air museum of the city’s history. The Victor statue, with its beautiful view over the rivers, is a symbol of Belgrade

City Centre

A pedestrian zone and shopping district – Knez Mihailova Street and Republic Square represent one of the most valuable architectural areas and liveliest parts of the city.

Skadarlija Bohemian Quarter

One of the city’s most significant old ambient quarters, it offers a great time at restaurants and bars offering music and national cuisine.

Skadarlija Bohemian Quarter

Summer | Leto 2013 BelGuest

CIT Y OF BE LGR A D E

Top Attractions Belgrade’s unique hallmark is provided by its two major rivers, the Sava and the Danube, its cosmopolitan spirit and the charm of its inhabitants. We highly recommend these must-visit places in Serbia’s capital: Belgrade Fortress, Skardarlija bohemian quarter, the heart of the old town, old Zemun, St. Sava Temple, the royal court complex, green oases around Ada Ciganlija lake, Topčider Park and Mount Avala, as well as the legacy from UNESCO’s Memory of the World Register. www.travel-belgrade.com

The Rebublic Square

Knez Mihailova Street

Photograph of Belgrade Fortress by Svetlana Dingarac BelGuest Summer | Leto 2013

HIGHLIGHTS

City on the River Banks

A special treasure of Belgrade is its riverbank areas. Rafts, clubs, cafés, greenery, walks along the Sava and Danube rivers will give you a unique experience of the city.

St. Sava Temple

This imposing temple, one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world, is dedicated to a great man of Serbian history, St. Sava.

Royal Court Complex

The Royal Court and the White Court, which make up the court complex, bear witness to the history and refined artistic taste of the Serbian Karađorđević royal dynasty.

Topčider Park

The Court Park and oriental residence of great Serbian ruler Miloš Obrenović speak about the history of the liberation of Serbia. A magnificent plane tree is the park’s landmark.

Royal Court Complex

Summer | Leto 2013 BelGuest

TopÄ?ider Park

St. Sava Temple

BelGuest Summer | Leto 2013

HIGHLIGHTS

Ada Ciganlija

Summer | Leto 2013 BelGuest

The Archive of Nikola Tesla

Avala Tower

Old Zemun

Once at the very border of the West, old Zemun still evokes the spirit of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Gardoš Tower, with its panoramic views of the Danube, is a landmark of Zemun.

Ada Ciganlija Miroslav’s Gospel

Visit the “Belgrade Sea” – a beautiful river lake surrounded by woodland, with countless cafés, restaurants, bike paths and sports fields.

Avala

Avala Tower on the mountain of the same name is one of the city symbols. You will see unforgettable views of the city and its surroundings from the observation deck at the tower’s top.

UNESCO–Memory Of The World

The Archives of Nikola Tesla, the genius scientist who “illuminated the planet”, are in his museum in Belgrade. The oldest uniquely illustrated Cyrillic manuscript, Miroslav’s Gospel, from the 12th century, is preserved at the National Museum.

BelGuest Summer | Leto 2013

WRITING IS A SYMBOL OF LIFE I write when the need is stronger than the cowardice. Writing is not an ordinary job. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s always a bit dangerous. When you find yourself face to face with this danger, with just a pen in your hand, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just that - writing is a symbol of life. Life is a kind of gift, a grace. One must be grateful for life, and for writing. Or perhaps it is exactly this writing that is an expression of gratitude.

Summer | Leto 2013 BelGuest

BELGRAdE’S GuEST: PETER HANdKE, AuSTRIAN WRITER

hat is it that is necessary to step forward, to accept, to take upon oneself the burden of someone else’s fate, to have someone else’s problem become part of your life? What is necessary for rejected and unassigned awards – what does a contemporary intellectual man have to have in order to react, suspect, or say – that’s enough now? The answers to these questions are given by Peter Handke himself. He arrived in Belgrade one late Saturday evening in April. On Monday, 8th April, he received the “Momo Kapor” literature award for his book “The Moravian Night”. At some point in between, on the Sunday, the following conversation happened – in an eerily coincidental place given the aforementioned title: on a “splav” (boathouse) which can be reached from the embankment, across the winding wooden planks leading over the waters of the Sava River, not the Morava. In addition to what was said during our conversation, and subsequently

written down, some observations that were not part of any dialogue have been added: small things that will certainly not change the world, but that may offer a better insight into Mr. Handke’s character, thus helping to understand the text. In fact, Peter Handke is an unusually refined man. His wife, Sophie, confirmed this: she said that she was rather surprised when Peter took her to Belgrade for their honeymoon twenty years ago. She showed me the sleeves of her black coat, the ends of which are embroidered with thin coloured stripes. This is his handiwork, for her. He also gave much to the Serbian people. “The season: not long after early spring. The date: not long before Orthodox Easter. The Moon phase: new moon. The clouds: slowly passing from west to east” - The coordinates of this conversation bear a likeness to those of the beginning of “The Moravian Night”. I would like to ask you to use this opportunity to take us on a journey, perhaps a circular journey, of things, events, personalities and elections that determined your life, or made it just as it is. - I took my most important decision during my law studies. I decided to leave, to become an artist, specifically a writing artist. As in my case, escapes can be positive. Sometimes such escapes are braver than life itself. When you run away or do something different to what you had originally planned, you have to put in a lot more effort and work harder. It was undoubtedly the most important decision I ever took. It was also very dangerous. I could have failed, and been swimming in the Sava... I was just 23 years old. After everything that happened, it’s an absolute miracle I’m still alive. On the other hand, such and other thoughts gave me the determination to persist. Miracles do not exist through God alone. Man must fight for them. You grew up in Eastern Berlin. Did your childhood determine the formation of your personality? - It sometimes happens that fifty or sixty years of our lives are determined purely by chance. Sometimes those years can be horrific, and at other times good. Once you are sixty, that coincidence becomes destiny. Looking back, I can now say that my childhood in Eastern Berlin was fate. Back then my life was ok; I could certainly understand it better. To live life simply according to the pattern of happenings is a sacrifice. We know you wrote your first book “The Hornets” on the island of Krk, which back then was part of the former Yugoslavia. We don’t, however, know, how you write? In other words, what is your writing ritual? Is it with a pen and paper, do you make notes, do you type on a computer, and at what time of day do you write? Momo Kapor, for example, typed all his books and texts on an old typewriter. - I write when the need is stronger than cowardice. Writing is not a normal job: there is always some kind of danger present. When you find yourself face to face with this danger, holding just a pen, it’s just... It is not simply writing, it then becomes a mission. - Writing is a symbol of life. It is not inconsistent with life. For many, as I said, it is normal to write. For me it is not. Life is a sort of gift, a grace. For life and for writing one must be grateful. Or perhaps it is just this writing that is an expres-

BelGuest Summer | Leto 2013

Serbian President Tomislav Nikolić meets with Peter Handke sion of gratitude. This appreciation is dramatic. If there is no such drama, then there is no book. drama has to be present in the book. You have just been awarded the “Momo Kapor” prize for literature. How familiar are you with the footprint Momo Kapor left in fine arts and literature? - I first met Momo through the jAT shows. I clearly remember once reading a wonderful story written by Momo about young people in Bosnia: there were great descriptions of houses, the atmospheres in the houses, the stoves and windows. That was when I realized that Momo Kapor is an excellent topographer. We have - so to speak – forgotten, how very important this is for literature. An even more important is the fact that

Writer and author of the text

Summer | Leto 2013 BelGuest

Momo’s topography is not based on science, but on his own view. Like reconstruction. - Take jacques derrida, for example. He deconstructs, thereby creating a new construction. Momo Kapor has done precisely that with Europe, with the world, with a house; and this deconstruction was what he needed in order to create a new house. It’s actually Momo Kapor. It is his literature. This is already the second award you have received together with Emir Kusturica. Previously, you were jointly awarded for “Rača’s Charter”. You wrote the preface for Miloš Šobajić monograph, you know Ljuba Popović, you are close to Milovan Danojlić, Mladen Materić ... Could we possibly talk of associated ideas, of recognition as an important category in relationships? - No, there’s no recognition. It’s actually the great wealth of Serbian arts and literature that combines all those differences. Sometimes I envy you for all this, but, of course, it is positive envy. Each language has its own literature. The worst is the so-called international literature in which everything is the same; as is wine in oak barrels. I envy you but at the same time I admire you. When I read Pavić, I thought I could never write something like that. It comes from another country, another culture, another language. And that is exactly the beauty of it. Like the Tower of Babylon. Each language has its own music, its melody phrases, its images... Today this is all jeopardized. Everyone wants to write as Americans do. Russians write like Americans, uzbeks write like Americans. Everybody wants to be Hemingway. That’s not good. Each language must have its own specificity. To establish that natural balance is very difficult nowadays. You read Pavić, I read “The Moravian Night”. I’m certain that not every one of our writers could have described this “sad story” of our past decades so in depth and so realistically. - Now and then it is good that someone from outside writes a book about

another country. I myself wish that someone would come to Austria or Germany and write about these countries from another angle. However, I don’t mean writing for newspapers, primarily, I mean writing books. Nowadays, it often happens that the journalist approach to writing is no different to writing a book. Writing a book is different. The journalist has a certain method, to write like a journalist is in some way unnatural; it’s like completing a particular scheme. It is learned. The writer cannot write schematically, he must investigate. unfortunately, more and more writers nowadays write as is taught in journalism schools. That is awful. There is no adventure. I believe that what you are saying can be well-understood by taking the example of “The Moravian Night”: by reading some sections on closeness, contours, or the line of a nail. - Yes, the line of a nail. Little is never just a little. Maybe nothing little exists. Great themes are never big events. Picasso once said, one oughtn’t paint great palaces, rather, small cottages on remote roads or in fields... The stage for “The Moravian Night” in some way appears to be timeless, and yet simultaneously everlasting - the story you narrated is yours and ours, and yet it could also be biblical. - I do hope it is a biblical story, though one cannot write biblically. All good stories always have to have some “light” in the background. It is important to feel the existence of man. The existence starts flowing like the universe, like a river, like the Sava we can see through the window as we speak. Literature is a different kind of Sava river. I would say a river without return, like that film with Robert Mitchum and Marilyn Monroe. Or rather, a river of permanent return. Yes, that’s better. I disapprove of seeking messages in works of art. Your book will be read by various people in various ways. It certainly has autobiographical connotations. Can you briefly outline what this book is about, in your own opinion?

- The starting point for “The Moravian Night” was my story called “The Afternoon of a Writer”. I wrote it twenty years ago. Back then I thought I should write a story about a round trip through Europe instead, a kind of odyssey inside my self, where I would talk about what writing is, what women are, landscapes, travel... This was the starting point. The tragedy in Yugoslavia only confirmed my intention, because it gave me a lot of material to write about. Perhaps it sounds cynical, but that’s how it is. Because all I ever wrote about was less abstract, one could say I capitalized on and profited from the tragedy. The dialogue of a man and a woman from one of your pieces is a template for the new Wim Wenders film. - Yes, that is correct. We’ll see. The film is currently being shot based on my play “Beautiful days in Aranjuez” At the beginning of the new century, what is it that is worth fighting for? Throughout history, we fought for many things; we fought for kings, religion, our homeland, our freedom... - For fidelity or loyalty to dreams. In order to do this, we have to have dreams. In this particular sense, and with or without a mirror, how would Peter Handke reply to the question of who he really is? - It is good to take a look in the mirror. I am glad, if in this regard, I actually see my eyes. Sometimes I cannot see them. Then I know that something is wrong. When I see them again, I know that I have returned to myself. Sometimes I look at the sky, the clouds in the morning – and I think, this is my mirror. I look at the trees and they reply with my eyes. Then I know that that is me, there, in that place, on that day. DrAGANA mArKoVIĆ photographs: G orAN StANKoVIĆ FouNDAtIoN

& momČILo momo K APor

Peter Handke and his wife Sophie visit the exhibition of prints and pastels by Momo Kapor in the Gallery of the Serbian Army House

BelGuest Summer | Leto 2013

GOST BEOGRAdA: PETER HANdKE, AuSTRIjSKI PISAc

PISANJE JE SIMBOL ŽIVOTA Pišem onda kada je potreba jača od kukavičluka. Pisanje nije normalan posao. To je uvek neka vrsta opasnosti. Kada se s tom opasnošću nađeš oči u oči, držeći samo olovku, to je jednostavno – to... Pisanje je simbol života. Život je neka vrsta poklona, milosti. Za život i za pisanje čovek mora da bude zahvalan. Ili je upravo to pisanje izraz zahvalnosti.

ta je to što je potrebno za iskorak, za prihvatanje da ponesete teret nečije tuđe sudbine, da tuđ problem postane deo vašeg života, šta je potrebno za sve neprihvaćene i nedodeljene nagrade – šta to čovek intelektualac našeg vremena mora da ima u sebi da bi reagovao, da bi posumnjao, da bi rekao – e sad je dosta? Na ova pitanja samim sobom odgovorio je Peter Handke. u Beograd je stigao jedne aprilske subote, kasno uveče. u ponedeljak 8. aprila uručena mu je Nagrada „Momo Kapor“ za književnost za knjigu „Moravska noć“. Negde između, u nedelju, na neobično asocijativnom mestu imajući u vidu pomenuti naslov, na splavu do koga se putuje nasipom, a stiže drvenim puteljkom daskama prokrčenim kroz vodu, Save, ne Morave, vođen je i razgovor koji sledi. Pored svega rečenog, a potom ovde zapisanog, postoje i neka zapažanja koja nisu pitanje dijaloga. Neke sitnice, recimo, koje izvesno neće promeniti svet, ali će nam možda ponuditi bolji uvid u ličnost gospodina Handkea, a samim tim i pojednostaviti čitanje teksta. Naime, Peter Handke je neobično rafiniran čovek, istančanog senzibiliteta. O tome svedoči i njegova supruga Sofi. Kaže da se prilično iznenadila kada ju je na medeni mesec pre više od dvadeset godina poveo u Beograd. Pokazala mi je rukave svog crnog kaputa čiji su krajevi izvezeni tankim linijama raznobojnog konca. To je njegov ručni rad za nju. Srbima je takođe poklonio mnogo. „Godišnje doba: ne zadugo posle ranog proleća. Datum: ne zadugo pre pravoslavnog Uskrsa. Mesečeva mena: mlad mesec. Oblaci u slabom prelaženju sa zapada na istok.“ Vremenske koordinate ovog razgovora sasvim su slične onima kojima počinje „Moravska noć“. Zamolila bih Vas da nas povedete na putovanje, možda kružno, stvarima, događajima, ličnostima, izborima – koji su odredili Vaš život. Koji su ga učinili baš

Summer | Leto 2013 BelGuest

ovakvim kakav jeste. - Moja najznačajnija odluka doneta je za vreme studija prava. Odlučio sam da pobegnem odatle i bavim se umetnošću. Tačnije pisanjem. Sudeći po mom slučaju, bekstva mogu biti i pozitivna. Ponekad su ona hrabrija nego što je to sam život. Kad bežiš, moraš mnogo više da se potrudiš, moraš mnogo više da radiš nego kad ostvaruješ ono što je planirano. To je verovatno bila moja najznačajnija odluka. Ona je bila i veoma opasna. Mogao sam da propadnem, proplivam Savom... imao sam 23 godine. Pravo je čudo što sam uopšte živ posle svega. Ali sam to čudo ja sam odredio. Ne postoje samo čuda od boga data. I čovek sam mora da se izbori za njih. Odrasli ste u Istočnom Berlinu. Da li je to bilo specifično detinjstvo koje određuje formiranje ličnosti? - dogodi se da pedeset, šezdeset godina našeg života biva proizvod čiste slučajnosti. Nekada užasne, a nekada dobre za čoveka. Kada napunite šezdeset godina, ta slučajnost postaje sudbina. Sada mogu da kažem kako je moje detinjstvo u Istočnom Berlinu bilo sudbina. Onda je moj život u redu, svakako ga bolje razumem. Živeti život samo po obrascu slučajnosti, to je žrtva. Znamo da ste prvu knjigu „Stršljeni“ napisali na ostrvu Krk, na prostoru bivše Jugoslavije, ali ne znamo kako pišete, mislim na sam način, ritual pisanja. Olovka i papir, beleške, kompjuter, doba dana? Momo Kapor je svoje knjige i tekstove kucao na staroj pisaćoj mašini. - Pišem onda kada je potreba jača od kukavičluka. Pisanje nije normalan posao. To je uvek neka vrsta opasnosti. Kada se s tom opasnošću nađeš oči u oči, držeći samo olovku, to je jednostavno – to...

To nije samo pisanje. To je onda misija. - Pisanje je simbol života. Ono nije u suprotnosti sa životom. Za mnoge je, kao što rekoh, pisati normalno. Za mene nije. Život je neka vrsta poklona, milosti. Za život i za pisanje čovek mora da bude zahvalan. Ili je upravo to pisanje izraz zahvalnosti. Ta zahvalnost je dramatična. Ako nema te dramatičnosti, onda nema ni knjige. drama mora da postoji u knjizi. Upravo Vam je uručena nagrada koja nosi ime Mome Kapora. Koliko poznajete trag koji je u umetnosti slikarstva i književnosti ostavio Momo Kapor? - Sa Momom sam se prvi put sreo posredstvom „jatove revije“. Sećam se odlično da sam jednom pročitao njegovu divnu priču o mladima u Bosni. u toj priči bilo je i odličnih opisa kuća, atmosfere u tim kućama, šporeta, prozora. Tada sam shvatio da je Momo Kapor izuzetan topograf. A to je veoma važno za književnost. To smo takoreći zaboravili. još je bitnija činjenica što se Momina topografija nije zasnivala na nauci, već na iskustvu sopstvenog pogleda. oput rekonstrukcije. - Ako pođemo od Žaka deride, koji dekonstruiše, praveći novu konstrukciju, Momo Kapor je to činio od Evrope, sveta, od neke kuće, a to što mu je bilo potrebno, jeste da napravi novu kuću. To je, u stvari, Momo Kapor. To je njegova književnost. Ovo je već druga nagrada koju dobijate zajedno sa Emirom Kusturicom. I „Račansku povelju“ ste zajedno dobili. Za monografiju Miloša Šobajića napisali ste predgovor, znam da se poznajete i sa Ljubom Popovićem, da ste bliski sa Milovanom Danojlićem, Mladenom Materićem... Da li tu već možemo govoriti o bliskosti ideja, o prepoznavanju kao bitnoj kategoriji odnosa među ljudima? - Ne, nema tu prepoznavanja. To je, u stvari, veliko bogatstvo srpske umetnosti, literature, koja objedinjuje sve te različitosti. Ponekad vam zavidim na svemu tome. To je, naravno, pozitivna zavist. Svaki jezik ima svoju literaturu. Najgora stvar je takozvana međunarodna literatura u kojoj je sve isto. Kao što je to vino u hrastovim buradima. Zavidim vam, ali se u isto vreme i divim. Kada sam čitao Pavića, pomislio sam da tako nešto ne bih mogao da napišem. To dolazi iz druge zemlje, druge kulture, drugog jezika. To je upravo lepota. Kao i kula u Vavilonu. Svaki jezik ima svoju muziku, melodiju rečenice, slike... danas je sve to dovedeno u opasnost. Svi žele da pišu kao Amerikanci. Rusi pišu kao Amerikanci, uzbekistanci pišu kao Amerikanci. Svi hoće da budu Hemingvej. To nije dobro. Svaki jezik mora da ima svoju specifičnost. uspostaviti tu prirodnu ravnotežu danas je veoma teško. Vi ste čitali Pavića, ja sam čitala „Moravsku noć“ i mogu da Vam kažem da je retko ko od naših pisaca tako istinski i tako duboko opisao tužnu povest naših poslednjih decenija. - Ponekad je dobro da neko sa strane dođe i napiše knjigu o nekoj zemlji. Poželim da isto tako neko dođe u Austriju ili Nemačku i napiše o tim zemljama nešto iz drugog ugla. Ali ne za novine. Mislim pre svega na knjigu. danas se često događa da se novinarski pristup pisanju ne razlikuje od pristupa pisanju knjige. Pisanje knjige ipak je nešto drugo. Novinar ima određen metod, pisati kao novinar na neki način je neprirodno, to je kao popunjavanje određene šeme. To se uči. Pisac ne sme da piše šematski, on mora da istražuje. Nažalost, pisci danas sve češće pišu kao što se uči u novinarskim školama. To je užas. Tu nema avanturizma. Mislim da se sve ovo o čemu govorite na primeru „Moravske noći“ može odlično razumeti ako se pročita jedan deo o bliskosti, obrisima, o liniji nokta. - da, linija nokta. Malo nikada nije samo malo. Možda ništa malo i ne postoji. Velike teme nikada nisu neki veliki događaji. Pikaso je govorio da ne treba slikati velike palate, nego male kolibe na zabačenim putevima, u polju... Čini se da je pozornica za „Moravsku noć“ nekako vanvremena, i ujedno

svevremena – priča koju pripovedate je i Vaša i naša, a opet na neki način i biblijska. - Nadam se da je to biblijska priča. Ali se ne sme pisati biblijski. Sve dobre priče uvek moraju imati neku svetlost u pozadini. Važno je osećati ono što je egzistencija čoveka. Egzistencija odjednom struji kao univerzum, kao reka, ova Sava kraj prozora koju gledamo. Književnost je neka druga vrsta Save. Rekao bih reka bez povratka, kao film sa Robertom Mičamom i Merilin Monro. Ili je bolje reći reka stalnih povrataka. da, tako je bolje. Protiv sam traženja poruka u nekom umetničkom delu. Vašu knjigu će različiti ljudi čitati na različite načine. Ona nesumnjivo ima i autobiografske tonove. Možete li nam u nekoliko rečenica reći o čemu je ova knjiga za Vas, onako kako je Vi vidite? - Polazište za „Moravsku noć“ bila je moja priča koja se zove „Popodne jednog pisca“. Napisao sam je pre dvadeset godina. A onda sam pomislio da bih umesto toga mogao da napišem priču o kružnom putovanju Evropom, neku vrstu odiseje unutar sebe, gde ću govoriti o tome šta je to pisanje, šta su to žene, predeli, putovanja... To je bilo polazište. Tragedija u jugoslaviji me samo oplodila u toj nameri. Ona mi je dala mnogo materijala za pisanje. To možda zvuči cinično, ali je tako. Tim je sve o čemu sam pisao manje apstraktno. Recimo da sam ja profitirao na tome. Profitirao sam na tragediji. Dijalog muškarca i žene iz jednog Vašeg komada predložak je za novi film Vima Vendersa. - da, to je tačno. Videćemo. Taj film se već snima po mom komadu „Lepi dani u Aranjuezu“. Šta je to za šta se na početku novog veka vredi boriti? Borili smo se za mnogošta tokom istorije, borili smo se za kralja, veru, otadžbinu, slobodu... - Za vernost, odanost snu. Za to je potrebno imati snove. U onom posebnom pogledu, sa ogledalom ili bez njega, na pitanje ko sam ja zapravo, Peter Handke bi odgovorio – šta? - dobro je pogledati se u ogledalo. Radujem se kad u tom pogledu zaista i vidim svoje oči. Ponekad ne mogu da ih pronađem. Onda znam da nešto nije kako valja. Kada ih ponovo pronađem, znam da sam se vratio sebi. Ponekad ujutru pogledam u nebo, oblake – pomislim, ovo je moje ogledalo. Pogledam drveće i ono mi uzvrati mojim pogledom. I znam da sam to ja, tu, na tom mestu, u tom danu. DrAGANA mArKoVIĆ fotografije: GorAN StANKoVIĆ I ZADuŽBINA momČILo momo K APor

Peter Handke, Matija Bećković and Ljiljana Kapor at the “Momo Kapor” award granting ceremony in the City Hall.

BelGuest Summer | Leto 2013

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ŽIVEO ŽIVOT!

4 June - 31 July, Department store Beograd, Knez Mihailova 5

4. jun – 31. jul, Robna kuća Beograd, Knez Mihailova 5

DAYS OF THEIR YOUTH

ong Live Life” is a project that shows everyday life for an ordinary person living in Yugoslavia from 1950 up until 1990. The setting is a multimedia and interactive, designed to allow visitors to experience the time with all their senses through authentic artefacts, design, installation, audio, video and 3D projection – to sit in authentic vehicles of that era and to try a driving simulation in the streets of Belgrade of that time or to put on a worker’s uniform from that time and to try the famous “Pino Silvestre” cologne. Info: www.ziveozivot.com

Summer | Leto 2013 BelGuest

DANI NJIHOVE MLADOSTI

iveo Život je projekat koji predstavlja život u Jugoslaviji od 1950. do 1990. godine u svakodnevnici običnog čoveka. Postavka je multimedijalna i interaktivna, koncipirana tako da omogući posetiocu da doživi to vreme svim čulima putem autentičnih eksponata, scenografija, instalacija, audio, video i 3D projekcija – da sedne u autentična vozila toga doba i proba simulaciju vožnje ulicama onovremenog Beograda ili da obuče uniformu radnika tog vremena i na vrat stavi kolonjsku vodu „Pino Silvestre“. Info: www.ziveozivot.com

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SUMMER IN BELGRADE

LETO U BEOGRADU

21st June - 15th July

21. jun – 15. jul

eograd nema more, ali ima Belef. Festival festivala ove godine održava se pod sa sloganom „Diši. Ne diši“, te žitelji i gosti prestonice treba da se spreme da ostanu bez daha. Tokom 25 festivalskih letnjih dana moći će da uživaju u deset festivala i festivalskih produkcija koje obuhvataju četiri umetničke celine: muziku, film, igru i vizuelnu umetnost. Ekološki program započet pre dve godine, biće nastavljen i ovog leta. Info: www.belef.org

elgrade has no sea, but it does have Belef. The festival of the festivals this year will be held under the slogan “Breathe. Do not breathe,” so the residents and guests of the capital should be ready to run out of breath. During the festival’s 25 summer days, they will be able to enjoy ten festivals and festival productions that include four arts areas: music, film, dance and visual arts. An environmental programme that was launched two years ago will be continued this summer. Info: www.belef.org

10Th BELGRADE BOAT CARNIVAL

10. BEOGRADSKI KARNEVAL BRODOVA

ON THE BEAUTIFUL BLUE DANUBE

NA LEPOM PLAVOM DUNAVU

6th July, Aquatorium of the Sava from Branko’s Bridge to Ušće

he Tourist Organisation of Belgrade is this summer inviting people to go down to the rivers. The slogan of the jubilee Boat Carnival is “All Down to the Danube, Down to the Sava,” as the slogan “Clean and Clear” calls attention to the importance of environmental protection. Celebrating a decade of existence, the 10th Belgrade Boat Carnival this year will be part of the international event “Blue Danube Week”, in which the cities and countries associated with the Danube will exchange cultural, economic, sporting and tourist values and potentials. Info: www.tob.rs

6. jul, akvatorij Save od Brankovog mosta do Ušća

uristička organizacija Beograda i ovog leta zalaže se za silazak na reke. Slogan jubilarnog Karnevala brodova je „Svi na Dunav, svi na Savu“, dok podslogan „čisto i bistro“ skreće pažnju na značaj zaštite životne sredine. Obeležavajući deceniju postojanja, Beogradski karneval brodova će ove godine biti deo Međunarodne manifestacije „Danube Blue Week“, u okviru koje će gradovi i zemlje povezane Dunavom razmeniti kulturne, privredne, sportske i turističke vrednosti i potencijale. Info: www.tob.rs

BelGuest Summer | Leto 2013

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LONG LIVE LIFE!

ŽIVEO ŽIVOT!

4 June - 31 July, Department store Beograd, Knez Mihailova 5

4. jun – 31. jul, Robna kuća Beograd, Knez Mihailova 5

DAYS OF THEIR YOUTH

DANI NJIHOVE MLADOSTI

Summer | Leto 2013 BelGuest

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22ND BELEF

22. BELEF

SUMMER IN BELGRADE

LETO U BEOGRADU

21st June - 15th July

21. jun – 15. jul

11Th INTERNATIONAL COMICS SALON

11. MEĐUNARODNI SALON STRIPA

26 -29 September, Happy Gallery of the Student Cultural Centre (SKC)

26-29. septembar, Srećna galerija SKC

ART FOR ALL AGES

UMETNOST ZA SVE UZRASTE

he International Comics Salon is a festival that has for the past ten years organised and run the happy Gallery of the Student Cultural Centre (SKC) in Belgrade. The salon is the biggest comics event in Serbia and one of the most important festivals of the ninth art in the region. It is of competitive character, and participants are the authors of all ages from all around the world. The festival brings together the most famous names from the world of the comics scene, but also promotes young artists. Info: www.sck.org.rs

eđunarodni salon stripa je festival koji već deset godina organizuje i vodi Srećna galerija Studentskog kulturnog centra u Beogradu. Salon je najveći strip događaj u Srbiji i jedna od najznačajnijih smotri devete umetnosti u regionu. Takmičarskog je karaktera, a učesnici nadmetanja su autori svih uzrasta iz svih zemalja sveta. Festival okuplja najpoznatija imena sa svetske strip scene, ali promoviše i mlade umetnike. Info: www.sck.org.rs

BelGuest Summer | Leto 2013

Winter | Zima 2011/12 BelGuest

BelGuest Zima | Winter 2011/12

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IF YOU’VE FALLEN DOWN, RISE AGAIN 32

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Belgrade at the end of the nineteen and in the early twenteth century is impossible to picture without its taverns and the joyous groups that would gather in those taverns. They were focal points of the cultural and social life of the period. There was singing, drinking, gambling, poetry writing, the outlining of articles and theatre plays, the government was criticised there as well as the theatre management, and money-making ideas were also made there...

his vivid image, which has stayed in the to convey it faithfully to his readers. However, the road to memories and records of chroniclers, is acquiring this skill wasn’t at all easy. His arrival in the vilfilled with the characters of writers, lage of svileuva, where he was appointed as a temporary actors, musicians, singers and a few students teacher, would affect his future in a significant way. This learning the tricks of the “bohemian” trade. was where he began to get prepared for his future writThey were “...lighthearted, cheerful and witty ing career and political activity, and where he fell deeply people, who put ‘society’ ahead of all other in love for the first time. Being cheerful, carefree, a good duties in their life...”, as Branislav nušić noted, singer, sincere and outgoing in his dealings with the vilhimself often part of those gatherings, which lagers, he soon became very close with them and they provided him with numerous topics for his started calling him their ‘teach’r’. The following spring he texts and comedies. started reading and writing even more. He wrote and tore it is impossible to imagine both the famous up his writings, but he just couldn’t find a genuine voice. taverns of Belgrade and the social and culit was only the following winter, having remembered tural life of the city of the time without Janko an anecdote he’d heard in the village, that he finally sat Veselinović. He is always present somewhere down and completed his first short story. both on photographs and in life, in memoswayed by Marković’s ideas, he joined the Radical Party ries and anecdotes. But his life is a prime and remained its activist for the rest of his life. at that example of the complexity of a period in time, he fell in love with Jovanka Jovanović and, in the which serbia, at the threshold of a new cen- The poster for the play “Deception”, 1907 fervour of youth, wanted to marry her, despite his parents’ tury, was attempting to undergo modernisation opposition. Threatening with suicide if they were not to give and attain economic development and to become economically independent. him their blessing, he made them give in, and the young couple was soon it was a time of stirred-up political passions when friends divided by political married. Unlike his political passion, his romantic passion was short-lived. and dynastic allegiances fell out and used newspapers as a medium for their Handsome and popular, he was an unfaithful husband, and his loyal, loving furious arguments. wife Joka suffered tremendously. They had several children, only one of whom at the end of the nineteenth century, more than four-fifths of serbia’s popu- survived – their daughter Persa. after the death of their last child, Jovanka lation lived in villages. Janko was also born in a village, in Crnobarski salaš in moved in with Janko’s parents and remained there for the rest of her life. Mačva. He was the first-born son of the priest Miloš and his wife Jelisaveta a teLeGraphist and opera sinGer Who Wasn’t meant to Be Veselinović. He would later turn out to be the most troublesome of his parents’ six children. He was a mischievous, disobedient and obstinate child, but also a He was more successful with the girls than with his school. During his second good pupil. year of teaching, his work received a ‘weak’ assessment by an inspector. He quit in Šabac, where he continued his high school education, he came into contact his teaching post and decided to go to Vienna in order to become a telegraphist. with one of his lifelong passions – theatre. He learned about new ideas in poli- With good intentions and money received from his father and Joka’s uncle, he tics from his older friends from school, but also from newspapers, and books, set sail for austria’s capital. There he lived cheerful and carefree in the company and he eventually joined svetozar Marković’s movement. of his countrymen. His baritone voice was well-received everywhere he would He was convinced that the teacher’s calling was the best way to help others, show up, so at one time he considered applying for the Vienna state opera. and his desire to work not even having finished his first year of studies led to Fortunately, his friends talked him out of it. Four months later, not having his becoming a temporary teacher. His father couldn’t make peace with the fact taken the telegraphist course, with no knowledge of German and having gone that his son wasn’t going to be a priest, so he got him enrolled in a seminary. through a traumatic psychological and medical experience with a Viennese girl, Disliking the experience, Janko quit the seminary and returned back home. he returned to his family in Glogovac. Having no other choice, his father took him to Belgrade and enrolled him in He came back to the village at the outbreak of the serbo-Bulgarian War, in the Teachers school. which he served as a troop political commissar. He came back from the war a changed man, aware of the fact that he and his family had long been a burden piCtures oF ruraL LiFe on his father. in order to be able to provide for his family, he once again sought Veselinović rose to fame as a writer of short stories about village life. Very skil- a teaching post. after a few months, his request was finally granted, and he fully, as someone who was intimately familiar with country life, he managed became a teacher in svileuva again.

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in poLitiCaL Waters after his release from prison, he resigned from his teaching post because he was elected president of the municipality of koceljeva as the representative of the Radical Party. Janko’s election was helped as much by his popularity as by his promises that attracted poorer locals. He was known as a great opponent of corruption and abuse of authority, which appealed to the poor peasants. There were also those who liked the other side of Janko’s character, his jovial spirit and the numerous hours spent singing, drinking and laughing in taverns. it was a time of fierce political clashes when opponents didn’t shrink even from the use of force, threats and weapons. Janko’s famous role ended a year later.

In the company of Vladimir Jovanović, Antun Gustav Matoš and Milorad Petrović on the path oF Literary Fame The two years spent in svileuva saw the publication of his first literary works. He took his short stories, written with a determination he hadn’t displayed in anything else, out of the drawer. on 15 May 1886, two weeks after his 24th birthday, “Šabački Glasnik” (The Šabac Herald) published his first short story “at the Village Gathering”, albeit anonymously, as Janko had requested. after that, his stories came out in instalments all the way to october, to be published later in the collection titled “Pictures of Rural life”. it was a beginning. This continued in the following years with the publication of his new short stories in leading serbian literary magazines as well. The first accolades also started coming in from colleagues and critics, from laza lazarević, sreten Pašić and Milan Jovanović, who wrote: “…his pictures are a pure, undisturbed mirror held up to village life!” in spite of the initial praise, other voices soon joined in, talking of Janko’s “undeveloped talent”, following the opinion expressed by the distinguished critic ljubomir nedić on Janko’s longest story, “Peasant Woman”. in the meantime, the same story was translated into French and served as a valuable account of the life of the Balkan peoples to the French scientist Brentan. and while his literary work was receiving more and more attention on the one hand, on the other hand he was paying the price for his political involvement. He was relocated to different schools on several occasions, which didn’t serve to make him loyal, so he later spent a month in jail in Šabac for writing against county authorities. This wasn’t his last prison experience.

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the BeLGrade years in august of 1893, he arrived in Belgrade. it was his third stay in the capital, this time lasting nearly a dozen years. The years in Belgrade gave him the opportunity to commit to theatre again, writing for and about it. He wrote two operettas, a form very popular at the time, titled “Đido” and “The Chase”. The music was transcribed from Janko’s singing by Davorin Jenko. “Đido” was one of the most successful serbian operettas. However much fame and popularity writing brought him, it also made him enemies. He particularly made enemies by writing for the opposition paper Zvezda (star). He incurred powerful opposition, first by publishing in instalments his novel “The Hero of our Days”, which put him out of favour with the powerful Prime Minister Vladan Đorđević, as well as with king Milan obrenović for vilification. Revenge was soon to follow, and he was sentenced to three months’ imprisonment, which he served in Glavnjača despite his frail health. in his last years, he would usually go to his parents’ home in Glogovac, Mačva in May. His illness first arose in the fall of 1904. return to his native mačva When he set off for Mačva by ship in May the following year, he was seen off by many of his friends and admirers, many of whom were aware that that was a final farewell. He died on 14th June 1905, aged 43. it is said that near his death, still conscious, he reached for his father’s hand to kiss it and so probably ask forgiveness for all the trouble he had caused him during his short life. He was a noble man who loved people, neither malicious nor vengeful, nor vain or haughty. He was forgiving, and stayed gentle and considerate until the end of his life, and this was how he was remembered. in one of his short stories, he wrote down a thought, which may have propped him up when he had faltered: “The world is held together by faith and confidence. if everything lost heart, everything would be doomed! Rather: if you’ve fallen down, rise again.” Jovo Anđić The author is grateful to the Archive of the Serbian Academy of Arts and Sciences (SANU) and the Theatre Museum on seconded photos and documents used for this text.

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Veselinović’s bust in Kalemegdan Park

AKO SI PAO, TI USTANI OPET Sliku Beograda s kraja 19. i početka 20. veka nemoguće je zamisliti bez beogradskih kafana i veselog društva koje se u njima okupljalo. One su bile stecišta kulturnog i društvenog života tog vremena. U njima se pevalo, pilo, kockalo, pisale se pesme, koncipirali članci i pozorišne drame, kritikovala vlast, pozorišna uprava, smišljali načini da se dođe do para…

a živopisna slika koja je ostala u sećanjima i zapisima hroničara ispunjena je likovima književnika, glumaca, muzičara, pevača i ponekog velikoškolca koji je učio „boemski“ zanat. Bili su to „…vedri, veseli i duhoviti ljudi, koji su pretpostavljali ’društvo’ svakoj drugoj dužnosti u životu…“ – kako je zabeležio Branislav nušić, koji se i sam u tom društvu često nalazio i tu pronašao mnoge teme za svoje tekstove i komedije. nemoguće je zamisliti ni čuvene beogradske kafane, ni društveni i kulturni život Beograda tog vremena bez Janka Veselinovića. on je uvek tu negde i na fotografijama i u životu, u sećanjima i anegdotama. ali upravo njegov život pokazuje svu složenost vremena u kojem srbija na pragu novog veka pokušava da se modernizuje i dosegne ekonomski razvoj i ekonomsku nezavisnost. Bilo je to vreme uzavrelih političkih strasti, kada su se prijatelji, podeljeni u

političke stranke ili po dinastičkim simpatijama, zavađali i oštro polemisali preko novina. U srbiji je krajem 19. veka više od četiri petine stanovništva živelo na selu. i Janko se rodio na selu, u Mačvi, u Crnobarskom salašu, kao prvenac sveštenika Miloša i Jelisavete Veselinović. ispostaviće se da će doneti svojim roditeljima najviše muka od sve šestoro dece, koliko su ih imali. Bio je nestašno, neposlušno i jogunasto dete, ali i dobar đak. U Šapcu, gde je nastavio gimnazijsko školovanje, došao je u kontakt sa jednom od svojih trajnih ljubavi – pozorištem. U učiteljskoj školi je preko starijih drugova, iz novina i knjiga došao do saznanja o novim političkim idejama i pristupio pokretu svetozara Markovića. Bio je uveren da je učiteljski poziv najbolji način da pomogne drugima, pa

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L i t e r a r y

G u i d e

t h r o u G h

B e L G r a d e

par se ubrzo venčao. Za razliku od političkog, njegov ljubavni zanos je kratko trajao. lep i omiljen, bio je neveran muž, a njegova Joka, koja ga je volela i bila mu odana, mnogo je propatila. imali su više dece, ali je samo jedno preživelo, ćerka Persa. kada je poslednje od dece umrlo, Jovanka se preselila kod Jankovih roditelja i tu je živela do kraja života. nesuĐeni teLeGraFista i opersKi pevač imao je više uspeha kod devojaka nego u školi. Tokom druge godine učiteljevanja od inspektora je dobio ocenu slab. Podneo je ostavku na učiteljsku službu i rešio da uči telegrafski zanat u Beču. sa dobrom namerom i novcem, što od oca, što od Jokinog ujaka, zaputio se brodom u prestonicu austrije. Živeo je u društvu svojih zemljaka veselo i bezbrižno. njegov bariton je svuda bio lepo primljen, pa je u jednom času pomislio da bi mogao da se prijavi Bečkoj operi. srećom, drugovi su ga odgovorili. Posle četiri meseca, ne pohađajući kurs, ne naučivši nemački i sa traumatičnim psihičkim i medicinskim iskustvom sa jednom bečkom devojkom – vratio se u Glogovac porodici. Vratio se u selo kada je izbio srpsko–bugarski rat, u kojem je učestvovao kao četni komesar. iz njega se vratio promenjen, svestan da su već dugo i on i njegova porodica na teretu ocu. Da bi mogao da izdržava porodicu, ponovo je potražio posao učitelja. Posle nekoliko meseci, molba mu je konačno usvojena, postao je ponovo učitelj u svileuvi.

Wedding photos je i ne dovršivši prvi razred, hteo da radi i tako postao privremeni učitelj. otac se nije pomirio s tim da mu sin ne postane sveštenik i upisao ga je u bogosloviju. Janku se to nije dopalo, pa je napustio i vratio se kući. nemajući kud, otac ga je odveo u Beograd i upisao u učiteljsku školu. sLiKe iz seosKoG života Veselinović je književnu slavu stekao kao pisac seoske pripovetke. sa velikim umećem, kao neko ko je izbliza upoznao seoski život, uspeo je da ga verno prenese čitaocima. ali put do sticanja te veštine nije bilo lak. Dolazak u selo svileuvu, gde je postavljen za privremenog učitelja, uticaće znatno na njegov budući život. Tu će započeti pripreme za buduću spisateljsku karijeru, političku aktivnost i prvi put se ozbiljno zaljubiti. Veseo, bezbrižan, dobar pevač, iskren u susretima sa seljanima i spreman da popriča, brzo se zbližio s njima i postao jednostavno njihov „uča“. narednog proleća počeo je još više da čita i piše. Pisao je i cepao, ali nije uspevao da pronađe pravi jezik. Tek naredne zime, setivši se jedne priče koju je čuo upravo u selu, seo je i konačno ispisao svoju prvu pripovetku. Ponesen Markovićevim idejama, pristupio je Radikalnoj stranci i bio njen aktivista skoro do kraja života. U to vreme zaljubio se u Jovanku Jovanović i mladalački zanet poželeo da se oženi uprkos protivljenju roditelja. Zapretivši da će se ubiti ako se ne saglase, on ih je privoleo da daju saglasnost i mladi

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na putu Ka Književnoj sLavi Tokom dve godine provedene u svileuvi, doživeo je i da mu budu objavljeni prvi književni radovi. iz fioke je izvukao svoje pripovetke, pisane sa upornošću kakvu ni u čemu drugom nije pokazao. U „Šabačkom glasniku“ mu se 15. maja 1886. godine, dve nedelje posle njegovog 24. rođendana, pojavila prva pripovetka „na prelu“, istina nepotpisana, kako je Janko tražio. a onda, sve do oktobra njegove pripovetke izlaze u nastavcima, da bi se pojavile u zbirci „slike iz seoskog života“. Bio je to početak. Letter to Ljuba Stojanović

K n j i ž e v n i

v o d i č

nastavak je sledio narednih godina, kad se pojavljuju njegove nove pripovetke i u vodećim srpskim književnim časopisima. stižu i prve pohvale od kolega i kritičara, od laze lazarevića, sretena Pašića i Milana Jovanovića, koji piše: „... slike su njegove čisto, nepomućeno ogledalo seoskog života!“ Uprkos prvim pohvalama, pojaviće se uskoro i drugačiji glasovi, koji o Janku govore kao o „talentu koji se nije razvio“, sledeći mišljenje koje je uvaženi kritičar ljubomir nedić napisao o Jankovoj najdužoj pripoveci „seljanka“. U međuvremenu je ista pripovetka prevedena na francuski i poslužila francuskom naučniku Brentanu kao dragoceno svedočanstvo o životu balkanskih naroda. i dok je njegov književni rad bivao sve zapaženiji, plaćao je cenu svog političkog angažmana. Više puta je kao učitelj bio premeštan, što ga nije učinilo lojalnijim, pa je, zbog natpisa protiv sreske vlasti, proveo nepun mesec u šabačkom zatvoru, što neće biti njegovo poslednje zatvorsko iskustvo.

K r o z

B e o G r a d

da se ponovo posveti pozorištu, pisao je za pozorište i o pozorištu. napisao je, u ono vreme vrlo popularnoj formi komada sa pevanjem „Đido“ i „Potera“. Muziku je na osnovu Jankovog pevanja zapisao Davorin Jenko. „Đido“ je bio jedan od naših najuspelijih komada s pevanjem. koliko god da mu je pisanje donelo slavu i popularnost, toliko je stvorilo i neprijatelje. naročito ih je stekao tekstovima u opozicionom listu „Zvezda“. Dobio je moćne protivnike, najpre objavljujući u nastavcima svoj roman„Junak naših dana“, kojim se zamerio predsedniku vlade Vladanu Đorđeviću, a zbog omalovažavanja i kraljevom ocu Milana obrenovića. osveta je ubrzo stigla, osuđen je na tri meseca zatvora i uprkos slabom zdravlju, odležao ih je u Glavnjači. Poslednjih godina obično je u maju odlazio roditeljima u Mačvu, u Glogovac. Počeo je da poboleva u jesen 1904. godine.

u poLitičKim vodama Posle izlaska iz zatvora, podneo je ostavku na učiteljsku službu, jer je kao radikal izabran za predsednika opštine u koceljevi. izboru su doprineli koliko obećana politika, koja je prijala ušima siromašnijih stanovnika, toliko i Jankova popularnost. Bilo je poznato da je on veliki protivnik korupcije, zloupotrebe vlasti, što se sviđalo siromašnim seljacima. Bilo je onih kojima se dopadala i ona druga strana Jankove ličnosti, veseljački duh i mnogi časovi provedeni u kafani u pesmi, piću, pošalicama. Bilo je to vreme žestokih političkih sukoba, gde se nije prezalo ni od upotrebe sile, pretnji, oružja. Jankova se slavna uloga završila posle godinu dana.

povrataK u rodnu mačvu kada je krajem maja naredne godine krenuo brodom u Mačvu, ispratilo ga je mnoštvo njegovih prijatelja i poštovalaca. Mnogi su znali da je to oproštaj. Umro je 14. juna 1905, u svojoj 43. godini. kažu da je pred smrt još pri svesti tražio očevu ruku da je poljubi i na taj način verovatno zatraži oproštaj za sve nedaće koje mu je tokom kratkog života priredio. Bio je plemenit čovek, koji je voleo ljude, nije bio zloban i osvetoljubiv, niti sujetan i ohol, praštao je i do kraja života bio nežan i pažljiv prema ljudima, tako su ga se sećali. U jednoj svojoj pripoveci ispisao je misao koja ga je možda držala kada bi posrnuo:„svet drži vera i pouzdanje. Da sve klone, sve bi propalo! nego: ako si pao, ti ustani opet...“

BeoGradsKe Godine U avgustu 1893. godine dolazi u Beograd. Bio je to njegov treći boravak u prestonici, ovog puta dug gotovo dvanaest godina. U Beogradu mu se pružila prilika

Jovo Anđić Autor zahvaljuje Arhivu SANU i Pozorišnom muzeju za dokumente i fotografije korišćene za ovaj tekst.

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EXHIBITION – THE BIRTH OF CHRISTIANITY IN THE ROMAN PROVINCES IN THE TERRITORY OF SERBIA

ROMAN MAGIC POTION

At first it seemed that we went astray in one of the episodes of “Asterix” while waiting, in the heat of Kostolac fields, having the guards costumed as Roman legionaries on the side, for the Archaeological Park Viminacium to officially open one of the most ambitious cultural events in celebration of 1700 years of the Edict of Milan – the exhibition “The Birth of Christianity in the Roman Provinces in the Territory of Serbia.” Any comparison between the comic and the movie was gone in an instant when we stepped into a Roman villa and by the power of “magic potion” entered the revived world of the late Roman Empire. 38

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SERBIA IN THE ROMAN AGE The territory of modern-day Serbia encompasses three Roman provinces: Lower Pannonia, Dalmatia and Upper Moesia. The part of Dalmatia corresponding to modern-day West Serbia contains no discoveries of Roman cities. In the Lower Pannonia region, the known cities are Sirmium and Bassianae (Donji Petrovac), and in the Upper Moesia region: Singidunum, Margum (Dubravica), the capital of the province – Viminacium, Horreum Margi (Ćuprija), and Naissus. As a rule, they were built by rivers: Sirmium on the Sava, Naissus on the Nišava or at confluences: Bassianae at the confluence of the Jarčina and the Rečica, Singidunum – the Danube and the Sava, Margum – the Danube and the Great Morava, Viminacium – the Danube and the Mlava, Horreum Margi – the Great Morava and the Ravanica. Serbia was in fact part of the Roman border along the river Danube, the main bastion of defence of the Empire against barbarian invasion. From the year 290, Rome was only a capital symbolically, whereas Sirmium, where Emperor Marcus Aurelius died, had a much more significant role. Sirmium became the imperial residence during the reign of Maximinus Thrax, and it was occupied on multiple occasions by emperors Diocletian, Licinius, Constantine the Great and his son Constantine II. It was also where Emperor Gratian was crowned in 379 and where he made Theodosius I his co-Augustus.

INFO The guest-exhibition will be displayed in Viminacium until 18th June 2013. After that it will be moved to Belgrade, where at the National Museum it will be open to visitors from 2nd July through 8th September. At the Philip Morris Gallery in Niš, the exhibition will be shown from 19th September through 31st October.

emperor’s reign, as well as his legacy, especially in the domain of religion,” Bojana Borić Brešković, director of the National Museum in Belgrade, the institutions that stands behind this exhibition, said in an editorial in the catalogue. She insists on the fact that these are exhibits from the soil of Serbia that the Serbian national museum collections have at disposal: the Historical Museum of Serbia, the museums of Vojvodina, Belgrade, Srem, Negotinska Krajina, Smederevo, as well as the national museums in Belgrade, Zaječar, Niš and Požarevac. The items originate from various locations: the residential complexes in Sirmium (Sremska Mitrovica), Naissus and Mediana (Niš), the palace in Gamzigrad - Felix

Romuliana near Zaječar, Šarkamen in Negotin, Roman urban centres of Singidunum (Belgrade), Viminacium (Kostolac) and archaeological sites in the vicinity of Šabac, Mountain Rudnik and the Danube borderline. PORTRAITS OF THE FAMOUS ONES The exhibits also include “Him” – Constantine the Great, his portrait in bronze, which is considered the world’s masterpiece portrait of art in the period of late antiquity. It was discovered in 1900 in Constantine’s hometown Naissus. It is believed to be part of the monumental gilded statue of the first Christian ruler, which was created probably in 334. Art historians believe that “Constantine’s

Belgrade cameo, from the third decade of the fourth century

culptures and fragments of architectural sculptures, frescoes, mosaics, jewellery, cult and ceremonial objects, containers made of precious metal, ceramics and glass, pieces of military parade equipment, Roman imperial coins – all that is part of the setting with more than 180 archaeological artefacts, most of which are of zero cultural value, witnessing of various aspects of life in the period from the second to the seventh century. TREASURES OF HOMELAND OF ROMAN EMPERORS “The decisive events that shaped the history of the Roman Empire in the period of late antiquity took place on the soil of the Balkan provinces, and the archaeological objects found in this region are an indispensable testimony for the history of this period in the whole of the Empire. It is anticipated that the archaeological and numismatic materials present the period preceding Constantine’s rule, the cultural and religious changes caused by this BelGuest Summer | Leto 2013

cameos of female busts, which were all the rage in Constantine’s time, the exhibit also displays cameos depicting emperors’ wives – a cameo of Diocletian’s daughter Galeria Valeria, discovered in Ćuprija and of Constantine’s Fausta, found in a tomb in Bela Palanka (the Roman Remesiana). The golden jewellery set from Šarkamen (early fourth century) consists of: two earrings, three necklaces and a ring, two hair rings, and a pendant. It is thought to have belonged to Emperor Maximinus Daia’s mother. The jewellery was found in 1996.

Pectoral – part of the parade armour, from the end of the third century face expresses a new idea of the rule of the imperial majesty and dignity of the emperor as God’s envoy.” Among the famous portraits, the ones “making him company” also include Emperor Galerius’ portrait head in porphyry (Gamzigrad), who was born near Zaječar, and the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I, the legislator and the architect of Hagia Sophia in Constantinople, who was born in the vicinity of Lebane (Justiniana Prima – Empress’ Town). There is just a small part that remained from the famous Belgrade cameo that originates from the fourth century. It was found near Mladenovac. The expertly cut and polished polychrome gemstone shows a warrior wearing a diadem, riding triumphantly over slain and captured barbarians. Among Gold coins, Constantinople mint, 364 A.D.

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PARADING HELMETS AND OTHER TREASURES The silver spoons from Rudnik are simply fascinating because of the beauty of their workmanship and their design, which has lost none of its elegance even after eighteen centuries. There are also pieces of the third century parade armour from a site in Ritopek and a century older iron parade helmets coated with gilded silver and decorated with cast glass medallions. The exhibited clay and bronze lamps in the shape of a fish, a ship, a shell, and a griffin with Christ’s monogram date from the third to the sixth centuries. An archivolt with a Christogram in a laurel ELEVEN EMPERORS Thirty Roman emperors lived, worked, fought and ruled in Serbia. Eleven of them were born in the territory of Serbia, while in the former Yugoslavia, that number is higher by seven rulers.

THE YEAR OF ALL-CHRISTIAN JOY In the year marking seventeen centuries since the political agreement on religious tolerance, reached in 313 in Milan by Constantine the Great and Licinius, granting “each one”, including Christians, “the free opportunity to worship as he pleases,” the state and Church authorities have declared 2013 “the year of all-Christian joy.” It is marked by a series of spiritual and secular events, including the exhibition “The Birth of Christianity in the Roman Provinces in the Territory of Serbia.” wreath, carved in limestone and dating to the second half of the fourth century has been preserved from the imperial palace in Sirmium. Also on display is a fragment of a marble gravestone mentioning Saint Irenaeus Basilica, with a circumscribed Christ’s monogram underneath the engraved text, between a heart-shaped leaf and a palm twig. The first historically confirmed bishop of Sirmium Irenaeus died at Easter, on April 6th 304, during the persecution of Christians at the hands of Diocletian Augustus and Galerius Caesar. This is merely an abridged offer of the timeless exhibition which is, after Viminacium, going to be presented in Belgrade and Niš as part of the commemoration of seventeen centuries of the Edict of Milan. The exhibition is accompanied by a catalogue with seventeen introductory texts by leading Serbian experts in the fields of Roman archaeology, numismatics, history, and architecture. J eLeNA tASIĆ Photographs: National museum in Belgrade

I Z LO Ž BA – R AĐANJE HRIŠĆ ANST VA U R IM SK IM PR OV IN CIJAMA N A T LU SR B I J E

ČAROBNI RIMSKI NAPITAK U prvi mah činilo se da smo zalutali u neku od „Asteriksovih“ epizoda dok smo na vrelini kostolačkih polja, uz stražu kostimiranih rimskih legionara, čekali da se u Arheološkom parku Viminacijum zvanično otvori jedan od najambicioznijih kulturnih događaja u okviru obeležavanja 1.700 godina Milanskog edikta – izložbu „Rađanje hrišćanstva u rimskim provincijama na tlu Srbije“. Svako poređenje sa stripom i filmom nestalo je u trenu kad smo zakoračili u Rimsku vilu i snagom „čarobnog napitka“ prešli u oživljeni svet poznog Rimskog carstva.

kulpture i fragmenti arhitektonske plastike, freske, mozaici, nakit, kultni i ceremonijalni predmeti, posude od plemenitih metala, keramike i stakla, delovi vojne paradne opreme, rimski carski novac – sve to čini ovu postavku koja sa više od 180 arheoloških artefakata, od kojih je većina nulte kulturne vrednosti, svedoči o različitim aspektima života od 2. do 7. veka. BLAGO RODNOG KRAJA RIMSKIH IMPERATORA „Presudni događaji koji su oblikovali istoriju Rimskog carstva u doba Kasne antike odigrali su

se na tlu balkanskih provincija, a arheološki predmet otkriveni na našim prostorima nezaobilazno su svedočanstvo za istoriju ovog perioda u celom Carstvu. Zamišljeno je da se putem arheološkog i numizmatičkog materijala predstavi period koji je prethodio Konstantinovoj vlasti, kulturne i verske promene koje je donela vladavina ovog cara, ali i njegovo nasleđe, pogotovo u domenu religije“, objašnjava u uvodniku kataloga Bojana Borić Brešković, direktorka Narodnog muzeja u Beogradu, institucije koja stoji iza ove izlože. Ona insistira na činjenici da je reč o ekspona-

tima sa tla Srbije kojima raspolažu domaće muzejske zbirke: Istorijski muzej Srbije, muzeji Vojvodine, Beograda, Srema, Negotinske kraGODINA SVEHRIŠĆANSKE RADOSTI Povodom 17 vekova od političkog dogovora o verskoj toleranciji, koji su 313. u Milanu postigli Konstantin Veliki i Licije, a kojim je svako, pa i hrišćanin, dobio pravo da veruje „kako mu srce hoće“, državne i crkvene vlasti u Srbiji proglasile su 2013. za „godinu svehrišćanske radosti“. Ona se obeležava nizom duhovnih i svetovnih manifestacija, među kojima je i izložba „Rađanje hrišćanstva u rimskim provincijama na tlu Srbije“.

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jine, Smedereva i narodni muzeji u Beogradu, Zaječaru, Nišu i Požarevcu. Predmeti potiču sa različitih lokaliteta: rezidencijalnih kompleksa u Sirmijumu (Sremska Mitrovica),

Naisusu i Medijani (Niš), palate u Gamzigradu – Feliks Romulijani kod Zaječara, Šarkamenu kod Negotina, rimskim urbanim centrima Singidunumu (Beograd), Viminacijumu

SRBIJA U DOBA RIMA Teritorija današnje Srbije obuhvata tri rimske provincije: Donju Panoniju, Dalmaciju i Gornju Meziju. U delu Dalmacije, koja odgovara današnjoj Zapadnoj Srbiji, nisu pronađeni rimski gradovi. U delu Donje Panonije poznati gradovi su: Sirmijum, Basijane (Donji Petrovac), a u delu Gornje Mezije: Singidunum, Margum (Dubravica), sedište provincije Viminacijum, Horeum Magri (Ćuprija) i Naisus. Po pravilu, podizani su pored reka: Sirmijum na Savi, Naisus na Nišavi ili na rečnim ušćima: Basijane na ušću Jarčine i Rečice, Singidunum – Dunava i Save, Margum – Dunava i Velike Morave, Viminacijum – Dunava i Mlave, Horeum Magri – Velike Morave i Ravanice. Srbija je zapravo bila rimska granica uz Dunav, na kojoj je u 3. i 4. veku bila glavna odbrana Carstva od najezde varvarskih plemena. Rim je od 290. samo simbolično bio prestonica, dok je daleko važniju ulogu imao Sirmijum, u kome je preminuo car Marko Aurelije. Carska rezidencija postao je u vreme Maksima Tračanina, u njemu su više puta boravili carevi Dioklecijan, Licinije, Konstantin Veliki i njegov sin Konstancije Drugi. Tu je imperator Gracijan 379. krunisao i učinio suvladarem Teodosija Prvog. Ring with Christian symbols Floor mosaic, from the fourth century, site Stojnik (Sopot)

INFO Izložba gostuje u Viminacijumu do 18. juna 2013. godine. Potom se seli u Beograd, gde će u Narodnom muzeju za posetioce biti otvorena od 2. jula do 8. septembra. U Galeriji „Filip Moris“ u Nišu gostovaće od 19. septembra do 31. oktobra.

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modni hit, na izložbi su se našle i one sa predstavama supruga imperatora – Dioklecijanove žene Galerije Valerije, otkrivene u Ćupriji, i Konstantinove Fauste, pronađene u jednoj grobnici u Beloj Palanci (rimska Remezijana). Set zlatnog nakita iz Šarkamena (rani 4. vek) čine: dve minđuše, tri ogrlice i prstena, dva prstena za letenicu i privezak. Veruje se da je pripadao majci cara Maksimina Daje. Nakit je pronađen 1996. godine. PARADNI ŠLEMOVI I DRUGA BLAGA Srebrne kašike sa Rudnika naprosto su fascinantne zbog lepote izrade i dizajna elegantnog i posle 18 vekova. Tu su i delovi paradnog oklopa iz 3. veka sa lokaliteta u Ritopeku i vek stariji paradni šlemovi iz Berkasova od gvožđa, Hercules with Telef, from the third-fourth century, Viminacium (Kostolac), te arheološkim nalazištima u okolini Šapca, na planini Rudnik i Dunavskom limesu. PORTRETI SLAVNIH Među eksponatima je i „On“ – Konstantin Veliki, njegov portret u bronzi, koji se smatra svetskim remek- delom portretne umetnosti kasnoantičkog doba. Otkriven je 1900. godine u Konstantinovom rodnom mestu Naisusu. Veruje se da je deo monumentalne pozlaćene statue prvog hrišćanskog vladara, nastale najverovatnije 334. godine. Istoričari umetnosti smatraju da „Konstantinovo lice izražava novu ideju vladavine kroz carsku veličanstvenost i dostojanstvo cara kao Božjeg izaslanika“. Među slavnim portretima „društvo mu prave“ i porfirska glava imperatora Galerija (Gamzigrad), rodom iz okoline Zaječara, i vizantijskog cara Justinijana Prvog, zakonodavca i graditelja Crkve Svete Sofije u Carigradu, koji je rođen u okolini Lebana (Justiniana Prima – Caričin grad). Od čuvene Beogradske kameje iz 4. veka ostao je samo manji deo. Nađena je kod Mladenovca. Vrhunski rezan i poliran višebojni dragi kamen prikazuje ratnika sa dijademom u kosi, koji u trijumfu jaše iznad pobijenih i zarobljenih varvara. Među kamejama sa motivima ženske biste, koje su u vreme Konstantinove vladavine bile JEDANAEST CAREVA Na teritoriji Srbije živelo je, radilo, ratovalo i vladalo 30 rimskih careva. Njih 11 rođeno je na prostorima Srbije, dok je na prostoru nekadašnje Jugoslavije taj broj veći za još sedam vladara.

Gold coins, mint Siscia, 326-327 A.D. obloženi pozlaćenim srebrom i ukrašeni medaljonima od staklene paste. Izložene svetiljke od gline i bronze u obliku ribe, broda, školjke grifona sa Hristovim monogramom potiču iz doba od 3. do 6. veka. Iz carske palate u Sirmijumu iz druge polovine 4. veka sačuvana je arhivolta sa hristogramom u lovorovom vencu, isklesanom u krečnjaku. Izložen je i deo nadgrobne mermerne ploče sa pomenom bazilike svetog Irineja, na kojoj je ispod uklesanog teksta Hristov monogram u krugu, između srcolikog lista i palmove grančice. Prvi istorijski potvrđen episkop Sirmijuma Irinej stradao je na Uskrs 6. aprila 304. u progonu hrišćana u vreme vladavine avgusta Dioklecijana i cezara Galerija. Ovo je samo sažeta ponuda te vanvremenske postavke koja će u okviru obeležavanja 17 vekova Milanskog edikta posle Viminacijuma biti izložena i u Beogradu i Nišu. Izložbu prati studijski katalog sa 17 uvodnih tekstova vodećih srpskih stručnjaka za rimsku arheologiju, numizmatiku, istoriju i arhitekturu. J eLeNA tASIĆ Fotografije: Narodni muzej u Beogradu

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I Z L O Ž B E

E X H I B I T I O N S

RAVENS

GAVRANI

23rd May - 7th July, Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Gallery, Zepter Museum

23. maj – 7. jul, Galerija SANU, Muzej Zepter

PTICE ZLOSLUTNICE

FOREBODING BIRDS

likar Vladimir Veličković osetio je posle duže vremena moralnu obavezu da svoj rad predstavi domaćoj publici i to u dva beogradska galerijska prostora istovremeno. U Galeriji SANU izložene su skulpture i 38 slika velikih formata, a u Muzeju Zepter 31 kolaž i crtež. Umetnik je ostao dosledan svom mračnom maniru, pa je pred publiku ovog puta izneo strašne crne ptice i scene ljudske patnje. Info: www.sanu.ac.rs, www.zeptermuseum.rs

he painter Vladimir Veličković felt, after a long time, a moral obligation to present his work to the domestic audiences at two Belgrade galleries at the same time. His sculptures and 38 large-format images are displayed at the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Gallery, whereas the Zepter Museum features his 31 collage images and drawings. The artist has remained true to his dark manner, so this time, he presents the audience with horrifying black birds and the scenes of human suffering. Info: www.sanu.ac.rs, www.zeptermuseum.rs

VISIBLE/INVISIBLE

VIDLJIVO/NEVIDLJIVO

6th -27th June, Gallery of the Museum of Applied Arts

6 - 27. jun, Galerija Muzeja primenjene umetnosti

MAZE OF LACE

LAVIRINT OD ČIPKE

he first year’s Salon of the Museum of Applied Arts is dedicated to the works of the visual artist Leonora Vekić. In her nine pieces of large dimensions, the artist pays tribute to lace – the gentle textile form, which reminds us that everything is transitory. She interweaves natural and synthetic materials (paper, cotton, lamination foil, synthetic textiles) of chastely white tones and subtle forms of female characters, the rain of red petals... Info: www.mpu.rs

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rvi ovogodišnji Salon Muzeja primenjene umetnosti posvećen je ostvarenjima vizuelne umetnice Leonore Vekić. Umetnica u devet radova velikih dimenzija odaje poštovanje čipki – nežnoj tekstilnoj formi, koja podseća da je sve prolazno. Prepliće prirodne i sintetičke materijale (papir, pamuk, folije za plastifikaciju, sintetički tekstil) čedno belih tonova i oblikuje suptilne ženske likove, kišu crvenih latica... Info: www.mpu.rs

I Z L O Ž B E

E X H I B I T I O N S

LOST & FOUND

LOST&FOUND

19th June - 13th July, Belgrade Cultural Centre, Art Gallery

19. jun – 13. jul, Kulturni centar Beograda, Likovna galerija

CONFUSING WORLDS

KONFUZNI SVETOVI

ost & Found is a conceptual project of the artist Dejana Vučićević with her photographs depicting scenes from the fifties of the last century. On a journey through time, she deals with the inner worlds of a girl who is the subject of her photo-story and who gets into sceneries the settings of which associate with the condition of being lost in space and time. Info: www.kcb.org.rs

ost&Found je konceptualni projekat umetnice Dejane Vučićević na fotografijama sa scenama smeštenim u pedesete godine prošlog veka. U svojevrsnom putovanju kroz vreme, ona se bavi unutrašnjim svetovima devojčice, koja se kao subjekat njene foto-priče nalazi u ambijentima čija postavka navodi na stanja izgubljenosti u prostoru i vremenu. Info: www.kcb.org.rs

BelGuest Summer | Leto 2013

K O N C E R T I

C O N C E R T S

GEORGE BENSON

7th July, Sava Centre

7. jul, Centar „Sava“

SUMMER JAZZ

LETNJE DŽEZIRANJE

he famous American singer, guitarist and one of the greatest jazz, funk and soul musicians of all times, George Benson, will perform as the lead star of this year’s Summertime Jazz Festival. Benson’s new encounter with the Belgrade audience will include a selection of the biggest successes in his over a half a century long career, marked by ten Grammy Awards and 35 solo albums. Info: www.savacentar.net

ERIC BURDON & THE ANIMALS

lavni američki pevač, gitarista i jedan od najvećih džez, fank i soul muzičara svih vremena George Benson nastupiće kao vodeća zvezda ovogodišnjeg Summertime Jazz festivala. Novi Bensonov susret sa beogradskom publikom sadržaće selekciju najvećih uspeha iz karijere duge više od pola veka, obeležene sa čak deset Grammy nagrada i 35 solo albuma. Info: www.savacentar.net

ERIC BURDON & THE ANIMALS

15th July

15. jul, Kombank Arena

GOOD OLD ROCK

STARI DOBRI ROK

ne of the most powerful vocals of all time who immortalised the famous song “House of the Rising Sun”, Eric Burdon will perform this summer for the Belgrade audience. He will present a series of hits such as “House of the Rising Sun,” “Do Not Let Me Be Misunderstood,” the anthem of the Vietnam War, “We Gotta Get Out of This Place”, a pioneering songs of psychedelic “San Franciscan Nights” and “Monterey”... Info: www.kombankarena.rs

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edan od najsnažnijih vokala svih vremena koji je ovekovečio čuvenu pesmu „House of the Rising sun“, Eric Burdon nastupiće ovog leta pred beogradskom publikom. Predstaviće se nizom hitova kao što su „House of the Rising sun“, „Don’t Let Me Be Misunderstood“, himnom rata u Vijetnamu „We Gotta Get Out of This Place“, pionirskim pesmama psihodeličnog „San Franciscan Nights“ i „Monterey“... Info: www.kombankarena.rs

K O N C E R T I

ROGER WATERS “THE WALL”

C O N C E R T S

ROGER WATERS „THE WALL“

1st September, Belgrade Kombank Arena

1. septembar, Kombank Arena

A SPECTACLE FOR ALL SENSES

SPEKTAKL ZA SVA ČULA

oger Waters, a composer, lyricist and co-founder of the legendary band Pink Floyd, will perform for the first time in front of Belgrade audiences with his ingenious visual and sensual masterpiece “The Wall”. The extravagant cult show has been seen 192 times so far around the world by more than 3,000,000 fans. This has been among the most successful tours in rock history ever. Info: www.kombankarena.rs

odžer Voters, kompozitor, tekstopisac i koosnivač kultnog benda Pink Floyd, nastupiće prvi put pred Beograđanima sa svojim genijalnim čulnim i vizuelnim remek-delom „The Wall“. Taj ekstravagatni kultni šou do sada je prikazan 192 puta širom sveta, pred više od 3.000.000 obožavalaca, čime se našao među najuspešnijim turnejama u istoriji roka. Info: www.kombankarena.rs

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S I E P A

P R E S E N T S

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C R E A T I V E

S P A C E

AN EXHIBITION THAT PUSHES THE BOUNDARIES

S E R B I A

The Creative Space Serbia platform created by the Serbia Investment and Export Promotion Agency (SIEPA) is aimed at supporting and stimulating the overall creative industry in Serbia. As part of this platform, one of the most important events is the appearance of our country at the largest and most visited exhibition in the world – the Milan Design Week at the prestigious Zone Tortona.

or three consecutive years, with an increasing success, Creative Space Serbia has been exhibiting in Zone Tortona. Last year’s exhibition was visited by over 150 international journalists. This year, the following have reported on Space Creative Serbia: “Casa da Abitare”, “Grazia Casa Italia”, “Huffington Post”, “Domus” magazine, and many other influential media in the field of design and furniture. Also, the daily newspaper “Corriere della Sera” and “Il Sole 24 Ore” already on the first day of the

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show in their online editions presented the Serbian exhibition, with a must-visit remark. CREATIVE CONNECTIONS International experiences show that the development of creative industries is not a result of calamitous processes in the market, but of an active role of the state. Therefore, SIEPA shaped the platform that has a triple objective: to promote Serbian design, to stimulate cooperation of designers and local furniture manufacturers, and to continuously

support the development of creative industry. Each year, the Agency announces a competition where all Serbian furniture designers may apply. After selecting the works, which has so far been done by a team headed by Creative Director Mirko Tattarini, Professor of Strategic Design and Product Development at ISIA Institute of Design in Florence, together with representatives of SIEPA, cooperation is being launched with domestic furniture manufacturers that wish to expand their business operations, and with the aim that this cooperation

does not boil down only to the development of prototypes, but to have it continued in the future. The entire show was then presented at the Design Week “Fuorisalone” in Milan, which is held every year in parallel with the Furniture Fair. WINNING THE INTERNATIONAL AUDIENCE The participants of this year’s exhibition were designers: Ana Babić with her two designs – “Play” shelf and “Light Sisters” lamp, the first being manufactured by Jasen and the latter by Lanterna; Antipod Design Studio – “Plato” shelf to be manufactured by the company Simpo Šik; Ivan Kucina – with the “Clara” dresser to be presented by the company Čempres; Kako.ko Design Studio – big and small shelf programme to be made by the company Gir; Milica Pavlović – “storINg FRAME” shelf that will also be made by the company Gir; Saša Mitrović – “MATRYOSHKA” wardrobe, to be presented by the company SCS Plus; Stevan Djurović with his two designs – “NE.KO” storage unit and “Luna” lamp the making of which is responsibility of the companies Simpo Šik and Lanterna; Tamara Švonja – “FLAT” shelf that will be readied by the company Ergomade; and FromTo Architects – “IN OUT” unit for storage and seating which will also be made by the Ergomade company. The exhibition has received very good reviews from the audience worldwide, and attendance was record high. “The Huffington Post” magazine wrote: “ Each of the winning creations was inspired by necessity and had a spare simplicity in both the design and execution,” while IlGiornale.it writes about our creations titled “Serbia’s Entry into the European Union through Fuorisalone.” Buyers this year were very interested in the purchase, but there was also a great interest to represent our

“Flat” - Designer Tamara Svonja, manufacturer Ergomade designs in the international market. Negotiations are ongoing for export to Germany, Luxembourg, Switzerland and Singapore. NEW BUSINESS MODELS A competition for companies that want to participate in this project and have their products

“Matrioshka - Object-Within-an-Object” - Designer Saša Mitrović, manufacturer: S.C.S. plus & Ergomade

exhibited in Milan next year, 2014, has just been announced. SIEPA attempts to win over furniture makers and point out to the importance of this show. Production and design of furniture are a big business, which is constantly changing forms – both because of the impact of the economic crisis and the globalisation process. Smaller product series and a lot of small customers is a new business model. Customers in Asia are becoming more and more prevailing because they have a greatest buying power. They are very cooperative and they resort to various logistical “manoeuvres” in order to provide their customers with access to the freshest designs, while in Europe, online shopping of designer products is becoming an increasingly important business model. During the summer, SIEPA will announce a new exhibition concept for the next year and allow sufficient time for local designers to prepare and apply with their latest solutions. All the details on the contest can be found on the website www.creativespaceserbia.com, where you can follow all competitions until autumn. BeLGueSt PHotGrAPHS: SIePA

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S I E P A

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K R E A T I V N I

P R O S T O R

S R B I J E

IZLOŽBA KOJA POMERA GRANICE Platforma Creative Space Serbia (Kreativni prostor Srbije) Agencije za strana ulaganja i promociju izvoza Republike Srbije (SIEPA) ima za cilj da podrži i stimuliše celokupnu kreativnu industriju Srbije. U okviru ove platforme jedan od najznačajnijih događaje je nastup naše zemlje na najvećoj i najposećenijoj izložbi na svetu – Nedelji dizajna u Milanu u prestižnoj Zoni Tortoni. “Play” - Designer Ana Babić, manufacturer Jasen

ri godine zaredom, sa sve većim uspehom Creative Space Serbia izlaže u Zoni Tortoni. Prošlogodišnju izložbu posetilo je više od 150 međunarodnih novinara. Ove godine, o Cretive Space Serbia pisali su: „Casa da Abitare“, „Grazia Casa Italia“, „Huffington Post“, „Domus“ Magazine i mnogi drugi uticajni mediji iz domena dizajna i nameštaja. Takođe, dnevne novine „Corriere della Sera“ i „Il Sole 24 Ore“ već su prvog dana u svom online izdanju predstavile srpsku izložbu, uz preporuku da se obavezno poseti. KREATIVNO POVEZIVANJE Međunarodna iskustva govore da razvoj kreativnih industrija nije rezultat stihijskih procesa na tržištu, već aktivne uloge države. Stoga je SIEPA oblikovala platforma koja ima trostruki cilj:

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da promoviše srpski dizajn, da stimuliše saradnju dizajnera s domaćim proizvođačima nameštaja i da kontinuirano podržava razvoj kreativne industrije. Svake godine Agencija raspisuje konkurs na koji mogu da se jave svi srpski dizajneri nameštaja. Nakon odabira radova, koji je do sada radio tim na čelu sa Kreativnim direktorom Mirkom Tattarinijem, profesorom za strategiju dizajna i razvoj proizvoda na Institutu za dizajn ISIA iz Firence, i predstavnicima SIEPA, kreće se u saradnju sa domaćim proizvođačima nameštaja koji žele da unaprede svoje poslovanje sa ciljem da se ova saradnja ne završi na izradi prototipova, već da se nastavi i u budućnosti. Celokupna izložba potom je predstavljena na Nedelji dizajna „Fuorisalone“ u Milanu, koja se održava svake godine paralelno sa sajmom nameštaja .

OSVAJANJE PUBLIKE Učesnici ovogodišnje izložbe bili su dizajneri: Ana Babić sa dva dizajna – Play Polica i Light Sisters lampa, u izradi kompanija „Jasen“ za policu i „Lanterna“ za lampu; Antipod dizajn studio – Plato polica, koju će napraviti kompanija „Simpo Šik“; Ivan Kucina – Clara komoda, koju će predstaviti kompanija „Čempres“; Како.Ко dizajn studio – Veliki i Mali Program polica, koju će izraditi kompanija „Gir“; Milica Pavlović– storINg FRAME polica, koju će takođe izraditi kompanija „Gir“; Saša Mitrović – МATRYOSHKA orman, koju će predstaviti kompanija SCS „Plus“; Stevan Đurović sa dva dizajna – NE.KO jedinica za skladištenje i Luna lampa, za čiju izradu su zadužene kompanije „Simpo Šik“ i „Lanterna“; Tamara Švonja – FLAT polica, koju će napraviti kompanija „Ergomade“; i

Od-Do Arhitekti – IN OUT jedinica za skladištenje i sedenje, koju će takođe napraviti kompanija „Ergomade“.

vanje nameštaja su veliki biznis koji neprestano menja forme kako zbog uticaja ekonomske krize tako i zbog procesa globalizacije. Manje serije proizvoda i mnogo malih kupaca novi je biznis model. Kupci iz Azije postaju sve prevalentniji, jer imaju najveću kupovnu moć. Veoma su raspoloženi za saradnju i pribegavaju različitim logističkim „manevrima” kako bi svojim kupcima obezbedili pristup najsvežijem dizajnu, dok u Evropi online kupovina dizajnerskih proizvoda postaje sve značajniji poslovni model. U toku leta SIEPA će najaviti novi koncept izložbe za narednu godinu i ostaviti dovoljno vremena domaćim dizajnerima da se pripreme i prijave sa svojim najnovijim rešenjima. Sve detalje o konkursu možete pročitati na sajtu www.creativespaceserbia.com i pratiti konkurse koji su aktuelni do jeseni.

Izložba je dobila veoma dobre ocene svetske publike, a posećenost je bila rekordna. Časopis „Huffington Post“ je naveo: „Svaka od pobedničkih kreacija inspirisana je životnom potrebom, poseduje jednostavnost u dizajnu i njegovoj izvedbi“, dok „IlGiornale.it“ piše o našim kreacijama pod naslovom „Ulazak Srbije u Evropsku uniju preko Fuorisalone”. Kupci su ove godine bili izuzetno zainteresovani kako za kupovinu tako i za zastupanje naših dizajnerskih rešenja na međunarodnom tržištu. U toku su pregovori za izvoz u Nemačku, Luksemburg, Švajcarsku i Singapur. NOVI POSLOVNI MODELI Konkurs za kompanije koje žele da učestvuju u ovom projektu i svoje proizvode izlože u Milanu naredne, 2014. godine, upravo je otvoren. SIEPA nastoji da pridobije proizvođače nameštaje i ukaže im na značaj ovog nastupa. Proizvodnja i obliko-

“Deda” - Designers OdDo Arhitekti, manufacturer Ergomade

BeLGueSt Fotografije: SIEPA

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J O V A N

R A D O M I R

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I N T E R V I E W

SOUL ON A PLATE Jovan Radomir was just a small boy when he left his native Bosnia and went to Sweden with his parents. Unlike many of our children who slowly started losing their identity, he managed to become a real and well-known Swede and at the same time to remain a true Serb. His book “My Balkans – Food and People” has had two editions in Sweden. The book is a remarkable mixture of genres: Jovan’s Balkans is at the same time a cookbook and a travelogue. Humorous, sometimes laced with nostalgia, this book is a balm for the negative image that our region has. And more than that.

ovan Radomir is a well-known journalist and anchor of the Swedish national television. The Serbian public remembers him as the presenter of Sweden’s voting results at the 2004 Eurovision Song Contest, and also as the author of lyrics for the English version of Marija Šerifović’s “Prayer”, the winning song of this contest in 2007. His biography includes a long list of interviews with legends of the international music scene: Bono from U2, James from Metallica, Celine Dion, Madonna... It is little known that Jovan is an honorary ambassador of Katrineholm, a small town in Sweden where he grew up. The mayor of Katrineholm played a crucial role in helping Jovan publish the first edition of his book “My Balkans” in 2011. Today, the second edition of the “autobiographical cookbook” is on the shelves of Swedish bookstores side by side with the world-renowned celebrity chef Jamie Oliver. We talked with Jovan about the book’s creation and its content in Belgrade, on the terrace of a restaurant overlooking the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers. The Balkans is a pretty broad term – why did you decide to name your book like that? “I simply did not want to impose any restrictions. The Swedes are familiar with the term “the Balkans”, and our cuisine is not only Serbian. Hungarians, Romanians, Macedonians, Greeks... we all share similar traditions. Also, this is my Balkans, and in the book I describe the tradition of our region, our customs, where our food comes from... ‘My Balkans’ is a kind of travelogue mixed with the memory of a pleasant childhood. I took advantage of my popularity so that the Swedes could see a different picture of the Balkans, and especially of Serbia. We managed to open wide the door to this region. People were really curious, many newspapers, especially travel magazines wrote about the book, we did some great stories, which proves

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that the Swedes are interested in our region, and especially in Belgrade.” The photographs of a rustic flask from the long-disappeared folk arts and crafts shops, the tractor ‘made in Yugoslavia’, your house in Srbac. Once upon a time there was a country... That’s how you begin your story. “I quoted Kusturica, his title, ‘Once upon a time there was a country’ was perfect as an introduction to the story. I very briefly describe the old Yugoslavia, but it was important for me to write a tribute to a beautiful country that is no more. I worked with Bojan Stanić, a young photographer from Belgrade. The two of us travelled together for a month and a half. We photographed the food, people and places. We followed our hearts; this was a kind of our graduation paper, we were redrawing the maps of childhood. I wanted the Swedes to see who and what we were and at the same time to have the nostalgic spirit of our people awoken.” What is on your list of national recipes? “For starters, I give a brief description of sarma and I explain how it’s served. By the way, all of my recipes are spiced with a little bit of humour. The menu also includes leskovačka mućkalica (Leskovac beater), and the photo is taken at the Belgrade restaurant ‘Zaplet’. I wanted to show how a traditional dish can be served in a fashionable way. I also gave a recipe for our Bosnian bread kuruza. Under the headline ‘A happy piglet’, I wrote the entry on our mangulitsa pigs, and alongside the incredible scenery of the Danube, I described how to prepare grilled carp. I gave the recipe for ‘army style’ beans – and made it more lively with the story of my military service in the Yugoslav People’s Army. I described our spices, and I made a special note on Vegeta that has been on the market in Sweden for a long time. Swedes use a lot of sauces and dressings, and this is contrary to our cooking ‘logic’, which is based on the original taste of food. Food and identity are strongly connected. Everything that we put on the plate shows where we are from and that’s our connection with our parents and ancestors. Of course, the list of recipes includes ćevapćići (grilled minced meat, a type of kebab), kaymak cream cheese, ajvar (a type of relish, made principally from red bell peppers), baked beans with onions and paprika, pastries, sweets made following the recipes by my mom Mira and my aunts.” You devoted special chapters to Belgrade and to the wines and brandies from this region.

“I wrote about why I love Belgrade so much. I described the life and traditions of taverns, and I dedicated a special section to coffee with Turkish delight served at Belgrade’s oldest pub ‘Question Mark’. Food is an important ritual for us, and drink comes with food. I presented our brandies through the smile of my uncle Boško: plum brandy šljivovica, apple brandy jabukovača, grape brandy lozovača, walnut brandy orahovača... and authentic wines prokupac and smederevka... I also explained to the Swedes our toasting customs. Also, for them, an environment-friendly approach to food is particularly important, and our cuisine is healthy and the ingredients are natural.” You had your book promotion at the Gothenburg Book Fair. How did that go and what are your future plans? “First of all, I would like this book to be published in Serbian, but I have not yet found a publisher in

Serbia. The promotion in Gothenburg was wellobserved and the reviews were positive. I asked for support from our organisations for the first edition of the book in Swedish, but they initially saw no benefit in it. I have an offer to publish the book in English, but it is more important for me to have the book published in Serbia. I made an excellent ‘live’ presentation of ‘My Balkans’ and our food in the famous Swedish Grand Hotel. That’s how I finished the last chapter of the book.” Jovan Radomir, a boy from Srbac and Bajinci, went all the way “from a village to the Grand Hotel.” His book “My Balkans – Food and People” offers a key to understanding the Balkan mentality. It’s a warm story about us, and the carefully inserted snapshots of family harmony from Jovan’s growing up years album are its special spice. miLena mihaLjčić

BelGuest Summer | Leto 2013

DUŠA NA TANJIRU Jovan Radomir bio je sasvim mali kada je s roditeljima iz rodne Bosne otišao u Švedsku. Za razliku od mnoge naše dece koja su polako gubila identitet, on je uspeo da postane pravi i poznati Šveđanin i ostane istinski Srbin. Njegova knjiga „Moj Balkan – hrana i ljudi“ doživela je u Švedskoj dva izdanja. Reč je o jednom izvanrednom žanrovskom miksu: Jovanov„Balkan“ istovremeno je kuvar i putopis. Duhovita, na trenutke protkana nostalgijom, ova knjiga je melem za negativnu sliku naših prostora. I više od toga. 54

Summer | Leto 2013 BelGuest

ovan Radomir je poznati novinar i voditelj Švedske nacionalne televizije. Domaća javnost pamti ga po saopštavanju rezultata glasanja na „Pesmi Evrovizije“ 2004. godine i kao autora stihova engleske verzije pesme „Molitva“ Marije Šerifović, koja je 2007. godine pobedila na tom takmičenju. U njegovoj biografiji zapisana je poduža lista intervjua sa legendama svetske muzičke scene: Bona iz „U2“, Džejmsa iz „Metallice“, Selin Dion, Madone... Malo je poznato da je Jovan počasni ambasador Katrineholma – malog švedskog grada u kojem je odrastao. Gradonačelnik Katrineholma odigrao je presudnu ulogu i pomogao Jovanu da 2011. godine objavi prvo izdanje knjige „Moj Balkan“. Danas se drugo izdanje tog „autobiografskog kuvara“ nalazi na policama švedskih knjižara rame uz rame s kuvarima svetski popularnog Džejmija Olivera. O nastanku knjige i njenom sadržaju razgovarali smo s Jovanom u Beogradu, na terasi jednog restorana s pogledom na ušće Save u Dunav. Balkan je prilično širok pojam – zašto si se odlučio da tako nasloviš svoju knjigu? - Jednostavno nisam želeo da se ograničavam. Pojam Balkana je poznat Šveđanima, a naša kuhinja nije samo srpska. Mađari, Rumuni, Makedonci, Grci... svi imamo sličnu tradiciju. Takođe, ovo je moj Balkan, u knjizi opisujem tradiciju naše regije, naše običaje, odakle nam dolazi hrana... „Moj Balkan“ je vrsta putopisa protkanog sećanjem na lepo detinjstvo. Iskoristio sam svoju popularnost kako bi Šveđani mogli da pogledaju jednu drugačiju sliku Balkana, pogotovo Srbije. Otvorili smo velika vrata ka ovoj regiji. Ljudi su stvarno bili znatiželjni, mnoge novine, pogotovo turistički magazini, pisale su o knjizi, radili smo velike reportaže, što je sve dokaz da Šveđane zanima naš prostor, a posebno Beograd. Fotografija rustične čuturice davno nestale Narodne radinosti, traktor made in Yugoslavia, tvoja kuća u Srpcu. Bila jednom jedna zemlja... Tako počinje tvoja priča. - Citirao sam Kusturicu, njegov naslov „Bila jednom jedna zemlja“ bio je idealan kao uvod u priču. Ja sasvim kratko opisujem staru Jugoslaviju, ali mi je bilo važno da napišem omaž lepoj zemlji koje više nema. Sarađivao sam s mladim beogradskim fotografom Bojanom Stanićem. Nas dvojica smo zajedno putovali mesec i po dana. Fotografisali smo hranu, ljude i predele. Radili smo srcem, ovo je bio naš maturski rad, ponovno crtanje mape

J O V A N

R A D O M I R

detinjstva. Želeo sam da Šveđani saznaju ko smo i šta smo i da istovremeno probudim nostalgiju kod naših ljudi. Šta se sve nalazi na tvom „indeksu“ nacionalnih recepata? - Na početku dajem kratak opis sarme i objašnjavam kako se služi. Inače, svaki moj recept začinjen je s malo duhovitosti. Na meniju se nalazi leskovačka mućkalica, a fotografija je iz beogradskog restorana „Zaplet“. Želeo sam da pokažem kako tradicionalno jelo može biti moderno servirano. Dao sam recept za našu bosansku pogaču „kuruzu“. Pod naslovom „Jedno srećno prase“ napisao sam tekst o našim mangulicama, a uz neverovatne pejsaže Dunava, opisao sam način na koji se priprema „Šaran na šišu“. Dao sam recept za pasulj – army style – i oživeo ga pričom o mom služenju vojnog roka u Jugoslovenskoj narodnoj armiji. Opisao sam naše začine, a napravio sam i posebnu belešku o „vegeti“, koja u Švedskoj postoji dugo godina. Šveđani koriste dosta preliva i sosova, a to je suprotno našoj kulinarskoj logici, koja počiva na izvornom ukusu hrane. Hrana i identitet u jakoj su vezi. Sve što stavljamo na tanjir pokazuje odakle smo i to je veza s našim roditeljima i precima. Naravno, na listi recepata su ćevapčići, kajmak, ajvar, prebranac, peciva, slatkiši po receptima moje mama Mire i mojih tetaka. Posebna poglavlja posvetio si Beogradu, vinima i rakijama našeg podneblja. - Napisao sam zbog čega toliko volim Beograd. Opisao sam kafanski život i tradiciju kafana, a poseban deo posvetio sam kafi s ratlukom koja se služi u najstarijoj beogradskoj kafani „Znak pitanja“. Nama je hrana važan ritual, a uz nju ide i piće. Uz osmeh mog ujka Boška predstavio sam naše rakije: šljivovicu, jabukovaču, lozovaču, orahovaču... i autentična vina: prokupac, smederevku... Objasnio sam Šveđanima i naše običaje nazdravljanja. Takođe, njima je posebno važan ekološki pristup hrani, a naša kuhinja je zdrava i namirnice su prirodne. Imao si promociju na Geteburškom sajmu knjiga. Kako je to prošlo i kakvi su ti dalji planovi? - Pre svega, želeo bih da ova knjiga doživi izdanje na srpskom jeziku, ali još nisam našao domaćeg izdavača. Promocija u Geteburgu bila je zapažena, kritike pohvalne. I za prvo izdanje na švedskom tražio sam podršku naših organizacija. Međutim, one u početku nisu videle dobro od toga. Imam ponudu za objavljivanje knjige na engleskom jeziku, ali mi je značajnije da knjiga izađe kod nas.

- – I N T E R V J U

Napravio sam izvanredno „živu“ prezentaciju „Mog Balkana“ i naše hrane u čuvenom švedskom Grand hotelu. Tako sam i završio poslednje poglavlje knjige. Jovan Radomir, dečak iz Srpca i Bajinaca, prošao je put „Iz sela do Grand hotela“. Negova knjiga „Moj Balkan – hrana i ljudi“ nudi ključ za razumevanje

balkanskog mentaliteta. To je jedna topla priča o nama, a njen poseban začin su pažljivo udenuti detalji porodičnog sklada iz Jovanovog albuma odrastanja. miLena mihaLjčić

BelGuest Summer | Leto 2013

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THE RENOWNED SIGNATURE

INFO For any information and reservations: +381 11 301 1140.

The Belgrade Hyatt Regency Hotel is proud to present the hotel’s new head chef, Michael Kreiling, who took over the gastronomic baton at the Hyatt Regency Hotel at the end of February 2013. During the previous three years, he had successfully been building his career at the British hotel Hyatt Andaz.

ichael Kreiling is well known for his innovative approach to cooking. this is also evidenced by his impressive biography: top-class restaurants and hotels in germany, France and great Britain as well as at the restaurant We present you the new meeting and wedding packages specially designed to provide our clients an authentic service at a first-class location at very affordable prices. HYATT MEETING PACKAGE SPECIALS Express package – starting at 25 € per person Half-day package – starting at 35 € per person Full day package – starting at 45 € per person WEDDINGS AT THE HYATT Wedding party / starting at 35 € per person Summer package / 44 € per person Deluxe package / 55 € per person Gala package / 65 € per person Royal package / 75 € per person

Summer | Leto 2013 BelGuest

HYATT HAPPY HOUR! Organise your cocktail party or gala dinner at Hyatt Regency Belgrade and receive the venue free of charge with welcome drink on the house! All venue rentals include standard AV equipment, internet line and parking for the organisers. *Promotional dates are valid from 1 June to 31 October. **This offer is subject to availability / all prices are inclusive of VAT. ***From 15 June until 15 December 2013, book events over 15,000 € and win four night stays at the Grand Hyatt Doha and two air tickets flying Qatar Airways. Kameha Suite cologne, the graugans restaurant at the Hyatt Regency cologne, the Rossini restaurant on the aida Blu cruise ship, St. Urban Relais & châteaux at the deidesheimer Hof Hotel... He has entered the Serbian culinary scene with the sign of the Hyatt Regency Belgrade, and with a

number of awards obtained from prestigious international organisations in the field of gastronomy. For nearly two decades, Michael Kreiling has been notching up successes: the awards such as three out of five Rossetas, in 2011; gault Millau, in 2009; the Upcomer of the year – der Feinschmecker magazine, in 2008; the aRal Schlemmer atlas, in 2007; and the gault Millau, in 2006. In his rich biography, he has also had an experience of a tV star, as has repeatedly been shooting shows for the famous german tV channel gusto. talented, dedicated and creative – Michael Kreiling is the main chef who heads the culinary team of the Hyatt Regency Belgrade comprised of more than 30 people. He has set new standards for the Metropolitan grill restaurant and established a new concept of banquet kitchen and catering. Organise your event at the Hyatt and try the specialties from chef Michael’s menu! For more information, please contact: +381 11 301 1139 / email: kristina.radicevic@hyatt.com BeLGueSt

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RENOME JEDNOG POTPISA

Beogradski Hyatt Regency sa ponosom predstavlja novog glavnog šefa kuhinje hotela Michael Kreilinga, koji je gastronomsku dirigentsku palicu Hyatt- a preuzeo krajem februara 2013. godine. Prethodne tri godine svoju karijeru uspešno je gradio u britanskom hotelu Hyatt Andaz.

ichael Kreiling je poznat po svom inovativnom pristupu kulinarstvu. O tome svedoči i njegova impresivna biografija: vrhunski restorani i hoteli u Predstavljamo Vam nove pakete za sastanke i venčanja specijalno kreirane kako bi našim klijentima omogućili autentičnu uslugu na prvoklasnoj lokaciji po veoma pristupačnim cenama. HYATT-OVA SPECIJALNA PONUDA ZA SASTANKE Express paket - od 25 € po osobi Poludnevni paket - od 35 € po osobi Dnevni paket - od 45 € po osobi VENČANJE U HYATT - U Svadbeni parti / od 35 € po osobi Letnji paket / 44 € po osobi Delux paket / 55 € po osobi Gala paket / 65 € po osobi Royal paket / 75 € po osobi

HYATT HAPPY HOUR! Organizujte koktel ili gala večeru u hotelu Hyatt Regency Beograd i uživajte u piću dobrodošlice na račun kuće! Zakup sala uključuje standardnu AV opremu, internet liniju i parking za organizatore. *Promotivne cene se odnose na period od 1. juna do 31. oktobra. ** Promotivna ponuda će važiti u zavisnosti od slobodnih kapaciteta / PDV uračunat u cenu ***Organizacijom događaja minimalne vrednosti od 15.000 €, od 15. juna do 15. decembra 2013., dobijate mogućnost da osvojite četiri noćenja u hotelu Grand Hyatt Doha i dve karte avio kompanije Qatar Airways! nemačkoj, Francuskoj i Velikoj Britaniji kao što su restoran Kameha Suite cologne, restoran graugans u hotelu Hyatt Regency cologne, restoran Rossini na kruzeru aida blu, St. Urban Relais & châteaux u hotelu deidesheimer Hof... Sa znakom hotela Hyatt Regency Beograd, na

srpsku kulinarsku scenu stupa i sa brojnim priznanjima prestižnih svetskih organizacija u oblasti gastronomije. Već skoro dve decenije Michael Kreiling niže samo uspehe: nagrada kao sto su tri od dodeljenih pet Rosseta, 2011.- gault Millau, 2009. - Upcomer of the year - der Feinschmecker magazin, 2008. - aRal Schlemmer atlas, 2007. gault Millau, 2006. U svojoj bogatoj biografiji ima i iskustvo tV zvezde, jer je u nekoliko navrata snimao i emisije za poznati nemački tV kanal gusto. talentovan, posvećen i kreativan - Michael Kreiling kao glavni šef kuhinje vodi kulinarski tim hotela Hyatt Regency Beograd koji čini više od 30 ljudi. Postavio je nove standarde restorana Metropolitan grill i novi koncept banket kuhinje i keteringa. Organizujte Vaš događaj u Hyatt-u i probajte specijalitete sa menija šefa Michaela! Za više informacija, molimo Vas kontaktirajte: +381 11 301 1139 / email: kristina.radicevic@hyatt.com BeLGueSt

BelGuest Summer | Leto 2013

SKADARLIJA - THE OFFICIAL OPENING OF THE SUMMER SEASON 2013

NEW TOURIST PROGRAMMES IN BELGRADE NOVI TURISTIČKI PROGRAMI U BEOGRADU FOLKLORE EVENINGS IN SKADARLIJA

As of this spring, supported by the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade (TOB), Globe Metropolitan Tours has offered for the residents and guests of Belgrade folklore evenings in Skadarlija quarters, a tourism programme in Belgrade of a kind. Every Friday starting 8 p.m. at the Skadarlija restaurant Mali vrabac (“Little Sparrow”), the guests have the opportunity to have dinner with national specialties and a package of souvenirs, and to enjoy the performance by Folk Dance Ensemble Thalia. A two-hour programme includes a combination of dances from Šumadija region and Western Serbia and the traditional Serbian atmosphere and the guests will have the opportunity to learn the basic steps of Serbian kolo dance. Information and tickets: Tourist Information Centre, 5 Knez Mihailova Street, and sales points of Globe Metropolitan Tours; www.tob.co.rs. / www. metropoliten.com / www.travelserbiabelgrade.com

FOLKLORNE VEČERI U SKADARLIJI

Od ovog proleća, Glob Metropoliten Tours uz podršku Turističke organizacije Beograda za Beograđane i goste Beograda organizuju Folklorne večeri u Skadarliji, jedinstven turistički program u Beogradu.

SUMMER | LETO 2013 BelGuest

Svakog petka od 20 časova, u skadarlijskom restoranu “Mali vrabac”, gosti imaju priliku da uz večeru sa nacionalnim specijalitetima i paket sa suvenirima, uživaju uz nastup folklornog ansambla Talija. U okviru dvočasovnog programa, gostima će kroz splet igara iz Šumadije i Zapadne Srbije biti dočarana tradicionalna srspka atmosfera, a imaće i prilike da nauče osnovne korake srpskih kola. Informacije i karte: Turistički info centar, Knez Mihailova 5, tel. 26 35 622; 26 35 343 i prodajna mesta Glob Metropoliten Tours-a; www.tob.co.rs. / www. metropoliten.com / ww.travelserbiabelgrade.com

LASTA’S CIRCULAR TOUR “FROM THE HEART OF THE CITY TO AVALA”

Lasta’s open bus touring to Avala Mountain departs every Saturday and Sunday from the tourist point at Nikola Pašić Square, at 10 a.m., 1 p.m. and 4 p.m., while the return is planned at 12 noon, 3 p.m. and 6 p.m. Tickets are available in the information centre of the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade, at 5 Knez Mihailova Street, and in the Lasta travel agency at 35-39 Balkanska Street or 1a Sava Square (Savski trg). Ticket price for adults is RSD 500, while children aged up to 14 pay RSD 300. Price for groups of elementary and secondary school (maximum 50 people) is RSD 300 per person. Information and tickets: Tourist Information Centre, 5 Knez Mihailova Street, tel. 26 35 622; 26 35 343; and sales points of Lasta; www. tob.co.rs / www.lasta-tourism.com

LASTINA KRUŽNA TURA “IZ SRCA GRADA DO AVALE”

Lastin otvoreni autobus do Avale polazi svake subote i nedelje sa turističkog stajališta na Trgu Nikole Pašića, u 10h, 13h i 16h, dok je povratak planiran za 12h, 15h i 18h. Karte se mogu kupiti u informativnom centru Turističke organizacije Beograda, u Knez Mihailovoj 5, kao i u Lastinim turističkim agencijama u Balkanskoj 35-39, na Savskom Trgu 1a. Cena karata za odrasle je 500 din, a za decu do 14 godina 300 dinara. Cena za grupe učenika osnovnih i srednjih škola (maksimum 50 osoba) iznosi 300 dinara po osobi. Informacije i karte: Turistički info centar, Knez Mihailova 5, tel. 26 35 622; 26 35 343 i prodajna mesta Laste; www. tob.co.rs / www.lasta-tourism.com

TAKING A STROLL THROUGH BELGRADE ŠETNJE BE0GRADOM A STROLL THROUGH DOWNTOWN BELGRADE AND BELGRADE FORTRESS

Through this tour you will get to know the city centre, Belgrade Fortress and the largest green belt in Belgrade, Kalemegdan Park. Route: Albania Palace, Republic Square, Knez Mihailova St., Kralja Petra I St. (National Bank of Serbia, Cafe ”?” – Znak pitanja, Saborna cathedral Church, the Patriarchal Court, Princess Ljubica’s Residence, Pariska St., Kalemegdan Park, Belgrade Fortress (Upper Town) and the Cvijeta Zuzorić Artistic Pavilion. Departure: each Saturday in front of Albania Palace (minimum 5 persons) Language: Serbian (at 11:00) and English (at 13:00) Duration: 120 minutes Bookings: Tourist Information Centre, 5 Knez Mihailova Street, tel. 26 35 622; 26 35 343 Note: The tour depends on the weather

ŠETNJA KROZ BEOGRADSKU VAROŠ I BEOGRADSKU TVRĐAVU

Na ovoj turi upoznaćete uže jezgro grada, Beogradsku tvrđavu i najveći zeleni pojas Beograda - park Kalemegdan. Maršruta : Palata Albanija, Trg republike, Knez Mihailova, Ulica kralja Petra (Narodna banka Srbije, Kafana ?), Saborna crkva, Patrijaršijski dvor, Konak kneginje Ljubice, Pariska ulica, park Kalemegdan, Beogradska tvrđava (Gornji grad), umetnički paviljon Cvijeta Zuzorić. Polazak: svake subote ispred Palate Albanija Jezik: srpki (u 11h) i engleski (u 13h) Trajanje: 120 minuta Prodaja karata: Turistički informativni centar, Knez Mihailova 5, tel. 26 35 622; 26 35 343 Napomena: Polazak zavisi od vremenskih prilika

OLD ZEMUN

For most of its history, it developed separately from the Belgrade, which lies across the Sava River, but development of New Belgrade in the late 20th century joined them together in a continuous urban area. Walk through Zemun will give you completely different experience then the other parts of Belgrade, not only considering architecture, but the spirit, atmosphere and river facilities. Route: Main Street (Glavna ulica) /Post Office Building; house of Dimitrije Davidović; Spirta’s house, Hotel Central/ Štrosmajerova Street (Franciscan monastery; Air Force Command Building), City Park; Ortodox Monastery of Saint Archangel Gabriel, Saint Rocco Catholic Church; Zemun Gymnasium... Faculty of Agriculture; Centre „Pinki“), Nemanjina Street, Rajačićeva Street, Mother of Christ Church, Glavna Street, (Madlenianum Theater, House with Sun Clock, Hotel Grand..., Gospodska Street, Old City Hall, Gajeva Street, Pantelić Foundry, Karamata’s House, Gardoš Millennium Tower; Church of St. Nicholas, Zemun Promenade, Old Harbor Master’s and Old CustomsHouse. Departure: each Sunday 12:00, in front of the Main Post Zemun, 8 Glavna street (Glavna ulica br. 8) Language: Serbian Duration: 120 minutes

BelGuest SUMMER | LETO 2013

Price: 300 dinars Bookings: Tourist Information Centre, 5 Knez Mihailova Street, tel. 26 35 622; 26 35 343

STARI ZEMUN

Zemun je grad koji se istorijski posebno razvijo. S utemeljenjem Novog Beograda u drugoj polovini 20. veka Beograd i Zemun su se spojili. Šetnja Zemunom pružiće vam jedan potpuno drugačiji doživljaj grada, i to ne samo kada je reč o arhitekturi. Zemun ima samosvojan duh i atmosferu, a posebno je lep zemunski kej na obalama Dunava. Maršruta: Glavna ulica, Štrosmajerova ulica (Franjevački samostan; zgrada Komande vazduhoplovstva), Gradski park , crkva Sv. Arhangela Gavrila i crkva Sv. Roka; Zemunska gimnazija, Poljoprivredni fakultet; SKPC „Pinki“), Nemanjina ulica, Rajačićeva ulica, Bogorodična crkva, Glavna ulica, (Madlenijanum, kuća sa sunčanim satom..., Gospodska ulica, Magistratski trg, Gajeva ulica, Livnica Pantelić, Karamatina kuća, Gardoš (Milenijumska kula; Hariševa kapela), Sinđelićeva ulica, Nikolajevska crkva, Zemunski kej, Stara Kapetanija i Stara carinarnica. Polazak: svake nedelje u 12h, ispred zgrade Pošte, Glavna ulica br 8, Jezik: srpski Trajanje: 120 minuta Cena: 300 dinara Prodaja karata: Turistički informativni centar, Knez Mihailova 5, tel. 26 35 622; 26 35 343

SPECIAL CULTURAL AND HISTORICAL TOURS POSEBNE KULTURNO ISTORIJSKE TURE ROYAL PALACES

The palace complex of the Karađorđević Dynasty in Dedinje includes the Royal Palace and the White Palace. In addition to these two magnificent mansions and the park, visitors, accompanied by a special tour guide, will also visit the chapel dedicated to St Andrew the Apostle. Departure: Trg Nikole Pašića 12 (12, Nikola Pasic’s Square), every Saturday and Sunday in two regular time slots: 10:30 and 13:30h Duration: two-hour guided tour Price: 450 dinars Bookings: The entry ticket includes a round trip transfer tourist bus. There is also the possibility to organise group tours during weekdays by previous appointment. For all information and reservations visitors must visit the Tourist Information Centre, 5 Knez Mihailova Street. tel. 2635-622 , 2635-343; contact: Anđelka Vuković, dvorskikompleks@tob.co.rs Note: Groups are limited to a maximum of 50 persons. Schools, students and pensioners’ associations interested in visiting the Royal Compound should call the Office of HRH Crown Prince Alexander directly on 011/ 306 4014 or email: kancelarija@dvor.rs Belgrade City Card - Your passport to the world of benefits and discounts! POPUST ZA SVA RAZGLEDANJA GRADA, UZ BELGRADE CITY CARD!

SUMMER | LETO 2013 BelGuest

RAZGLEDANJE KRALJEVSKIH DVOROVA

Dvorski kompleks dinastije Karađorđević na Dedinju sastoji se od Kraljevskog i Belog dvora. Pored dva velelepna dvorska zdanja i parka, posetioci, uz pratnju profesionalnih turističkih vodiča, obilaze i dvorsku kapelu posvećenu Sv. Andreju Prvozvanom. Polazak: Trg Nikole Pašića 12, svake subote i nedelje u u 10:30 i 13:30h Trajanje: 120 min, uz pratnju turističkog vodiča Cena: 450 dinara Prijave: Karta uključuje povratni transfer na Trg Nikole Pašića. Postoji mogućnost organizovnja grupnih poseta radnim danima, koje se prethodno moraju zakazati. Turistički informativni centar, Knez Mihailova 5, tel. tel. 2635622 , 2635-343; Kontakt: Anđelka Vuković, dvorskikompleks@tob.co.rs Napomena: Maksimalan broj turista u grupnom razgledanju je pedeset osoba. Škole, studenti i penzioneri zainteresovani za grupnu posetu dvoru treba da se najave kancelariji NjKV Princa Aleksandara direktno na 011/306-4014 i putem emaila: kancelarija@dvor.rs

A COFFEE WITH PRINCESS LJUBICA

“A Coffee with Princess Ljubica“is a special progamme intended to present the Residence of Princess Ljubica and the life in Belgrade during the rule of the Obrenović dynasty. A curator of the Belgrade City Museum will meet you as the hostess of the Residence, dressed in an early 19th-century costume. Along with the underlying historical story, you can hear interesting details about the private life of the ruling family. English language programme: available upon request Duration: 60 minute, Ticket price: 500 dinars Bookings: Konak kneginje Ljubice, Kneza Sime Markovica 8, tel. 2638 264; Information: Tourist Information Centre, 5 Knez Mihailova Street, tel. 26 35 622; 26 35 343 Note: Group visits are available throughout the week if announced in advance either by phone 3283-504 or by e-mail office@mgb.org.rs.

NA KAFI KOD KNEGINJE LJUBICE

Programom “Na kafi kod kneginje Ljubice” predstavlja se život u Beogradu u vreme vladavine dinastije Obrenovic na jedan neuobicajen nacin. Kustoskinja Muzeja grada Beograda obucena u kostim iz perioda kneginje Ljubice dočekuje posetioce kao domaćica svoje palate. Prica kojom animira publiku je popularna i prilagođena turistickim turama obilaska muzeja. Pored osnovne istorijske priče saznaćete zanimljive detalje o privatnom životu vladarske porodice. Program: svakog petka u 17h, subotom u 10h Jezik: srpski Trajanje: 60 minuta, Cena ulaznice: 350 dinara Prodaja karata: Konak kneginje Ljubice, Kneza Sime Markovica 8, tel. 2638 264; Informacije: Turistički informativni centar, 5 Knez Mihailova Street, tel. 26 35 622; 26 35 343 Napomena: Vanrednu predstavu moguće je zakazati na telefon: 3283-504 ili na office@mgb.org.rs

BelGuest ZIMA | WINTER 2013

Hotel Accommodation Sightseeing Tours Transfers Business Service Rent-a-car Train, bus & air tickets Complete Service Assistance GUARANTIED DEPARTURES -pick up from hotels CITY TOUR-Daily ,at 10.50,2 Hours with photo stop, OPLENAC-Wed,at 14.00,4 Hours NOVI SAD-Thu, at 14.00,4 hours

www.metropoliten.com www.travelserbiabelgrade.com glob@metropoliten.com

BELGRADE TROUGH CITY MUSEUM(S)

Walking through a city is the best way to feel its rhythm. For that reason we suggest you to turn this tour into a stroll during which you can visit four museums: Princess Ljubica’s Residence, the Museum of Paja Jovanović, the Museum of Ivo Andrić and the Museum of Jovan Cvijić. Tickets for the Four Museums Tour programme cost a total of 200 dinars and can be purchased at the ticket offices of any of the museums included. Information: Tourist Information Centre, 5 Knez Mihailova Street, tel. 26 35 622; 26 35 343

KROZ MUZEJ/E/ GRADA BEOGRADA

Najlepši način da se upozna grad, njegov duh, jeste proći kroz njega peške. Zato predlažemo da obilazak Beograda kroz muzej(e) grada Beograda bude lagana šetnja tokom koje mogu da se obiđu 4 muzeja: Konak kneginje Ljubice, Muzej Paje Jovanovića, Muzej Ive Andrića i Muzej Jovana Cvijića. Ulaznica za program obilaska 4 muzeja je 200,00 dinara i može se kupiti na biletarnicama svakog od pomenutih muzeja. Informacije: Turistički informativni centar, Knez Mihailova 5, tel. 26 35 622; 26 35 343

BELGRADE UNDERGROUND TOUR

A perfect way to discover the hidden secrets of Belgrade is to explore underground. These 5 underground places present older layers of Belgrade that various cultures built over ramparts of the conquered city, a scenario which occurred 38 times. Route: Roman Hall, Army bunker - from the time of the Cold War, Big gunpowder warehouse, Kosancic Square tunnels, wine cellar in the cave. Departure point: Gračanička 11, EuroJet agency, Tuesday 10am, Thursday 5:30 pm, Saturday 12am; Sunday 2pm. Duration: 2,5 hours

SUMMER | LETO 2013 BelGuest

Makenzijeva 26, 11000 Beograd, Srbija Telefoni: (011) 2430-852, (011) 2430-899, (011) 2437-483, (011) 2431-076

Information: Tourist Information Centre, 5 Knez Mihailova Street, tel. 26 35 622; 26 35 343 Note: Reservations are required because of limited number of guests

TURA PODZEMNIM BEOGRADOM

Otkrijte tajne Beograda na savršen način. Podzemni Beograd sadrži na stotine lokaliteta: pećina, laguma, zazidanih reka, tunela, bunkera i drugih građevina koje su uništavali i gradili narodi koji su naseljavali Beograd. Poseta lokalitetima će oslikati priče o neobičnoj istoriji Beograda, čudnim sudbinama i legendama. Maršruta: Rimska dvorana, vojni bunker iz vremena hladnog rata, Veliki barutni magacin, lagumi Kosančićevog venca, vinski lagum. Polazak: Gračanička 11, agencija EuroJet, sreda 17:30h, subota 14:30h, nedelja 11:00h Trajanje: 2.5 sata Informacije: Turistički informativni centar, Knez Mihailova 5 ,tel. 26 35 622; 26 35 343 Napomena: Rezevacije su obavezne zbog ograničenog broja turista

BELGRADE BUS /TRAM/MINIBUS SIGHTSEEING TOURS BEOGRAD IZ AUTOBUSA, TRAMVAJA, MINIBUSA

BS TOURS OPEN BUS SIGHTSEEING

Route: King Alexander Boulevard, Knez Milos Boulevard, Boulevard of Prince Alexander Karađorđevića, Liberation Square, Autokomanda, Slavija Square, King Milan Street, Terazije, Republic Square, Tadeuša Košćuskog, Emperor Dusan, Vojvode Bojovića, Prince Sime Markovića Street, Branko’s Bridge, Boulevard Nikola Tesla, Confluence , Mihailo Pupin Boulevard, Branko’s Bridge, Terazije, Boulevard of King Alexander. Departure point: 12 Nikola Pasic Square, every day except Monday at 11am

Duration: 70 minutes Languages: Serbian, English, French, Russian, German Ticket price: 500 dinars Bookings & Information: Tourist Information Centre, 5 Knez Mihailova Street, tel. 26 35 622; 26 35 343 Tourist Information Center, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 3281 859

BS TOURS RAZGLEDANJE BEOGRADA IZ AUTOBUSA SA OTVORENIM KROVOM

Maršruta: Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra, Kneza Miloša, Bulevar Kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića, Trg Oslobodjenja, Autokomanda, Bulevar oslobođenja, Trg Slavija, Kralja Milana, Terazije, Trg Republike, Tadeuša Košćuškog, Cara Dušana, Bulevar Vojvode Bojovića, Kneza Sime Markovića, Brankov most, Bulevar Nikole Tesle, Ušće, Bulevar Mihaila Pupina, Brankov most, Terazije, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra. Polazak: Trg Nikole Pašića 12, svakog dana, osim ponedeljkom, u 11h Trajanje: 70 minuta Jezici: srpski, engleski, francuski, ruski, nemački Cena: 500 dinara Rezervacije i informacije: Turistički informativni centar, Knez Mihailova 5, tel. 26 35 622; 26 35 343

SIGHTSEEING WITH LASTA OPEN TOP BUS

Route: Kneza Miloša–Boulevard vojvode Putnika - Boulevard Prince Alexander Karađorđevic (House of Flowers), Boulevard of Liberation, Slavija Square, King Milan Street, Terazije, Republic Square, Students’ Square, Boulevard vojvode

Belgrade City Card - Your passport to the world of benefits and discounts! POPUST ZA SVA RAZGLEDANJA GRADA, UZ BELGRADE CITY CARD! Bojovića (Sava port), Karađorđeva Street, Branko’s Bridge, Boulevard Mihajla Pupina, Boulevard Milutina Milankovića, Antifascist struggle Street, Jurija Gagarina, Ada Bridge, Zemun road, Branko’s Bridge, Terazije, Nikola Pasic Square Departure point:12 Nikola Pasic Square, every day at 10:00 am and 6:00 pm Languages: the audio guide - Serbian, English, Italian, Spanish, French, German, Russian and Greek. Ticket price: for adults 500 dinars; for children under 14 years 300 dinars Bookings & Information: Tourist Information Centre, 5 Knez Mihailova Street, tel. 26 35 622; 26 35 343 Note: From 01.09.2013. to 30.09.2013. everyday sightseeing tour with one starting at 4:00 pm.

RAZGLEDANJE IZ LASTINOG „OPEN TOP” AUTOBUSA

Maršuta: Kneza Miloša, Bul. Vojvode Putnika, Bul. kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića (Kuća cveća), Bul. Osobođenja, Trg Slavija, Kralja Milana, Terazije, Trg Republike, Studentski trg, Bul. Vojvode Bojovića (Savsko pristanište), Karađorđeva, Brankov most, Bul. Mihajla Pupina, Bul. Milutina Milankovića,

KAYAKING AROUND THE BIG WAR ISLAND

BelGuest SUMMER | LETO 2013

Antifašističke borbe, Jurija Gagarina, Most na Adi, Zemunski put, Brankov most, Terazije, Trg Nikole Pašića. Polazak: Trg Nikole Pašića 12, svakog dana u 10h i 18h Jezici: na audio vodiču - srpski, engleski, italijanski, španski, francuski, nemački, ruski i grčki. Cena: 500,00 dinara za odrasle, za decu do 14 godina 300,00 dinara. Rezervacije i informacije: Turistički informativni centar, Knez Mihailova 5 tel. 26 35 622; 26 35 343 Napomena:U periodu od 01.09.2013. do 30.09.2013. svakodnavna razgledanja po;inju u 16h.

A TRAM NAMED BELGRADE

Route: Departure from the tram terminal at the Zoo, Tadeuša Košćuška Street, Kalemegdan Park, the Port of Belgrade, Karađordjeva Street, Nemanjina Street, Resavska Street, King Aleksandar Boulevard, Vuk Stefanović Karadžićmonument, Kraljice Marije Street, George Washington Street and Tsar Dušan Street to Beko. Departure: Fridays from 7pm to 8pm /tour in Serbian/ from 8 pm to 9 am /tour in English; Saturdays from 5pm to 6pm /tour in Serbian/ from 6pm to 7pm/tour in English Duration: 60-minute guided tour Reservations: Tourist Information Centre, 5 Knez Mihailova Street, tel. 26 35 622; 26 35 343 Note: The programme is free of charge; number of places limited to 25 persons

BELGRADE BY BICYCLE BEOGRAD BICIKLOM IBIKEBELGRADE TOUR

Professional English-speaking guides welcome you and take you to the bikes at the 25th May Sport Centre beside the Danube Route: Danube and Sava rivers, architectural highlights of the socialist era, the old city of Zemun and the beautiful island of Ada Ciganlija and its beach. Departure point: Kneza Mihailova street, in front of the Belgrade City Library, daily at 2pm Duration: four hours Price: €15 includes bike rental, guided tour, boat-ride and one free drink Information: www.ibikebelgrade.com

TURA IBIKEBELGRADE

Dočekaće vas profesionalni vodiči koji govore engleski i poželeti vam dobrodošlicu. Za desetk minuta hoda stići ćete do Sportskog centra 25. maj na obali Dunava, gde ćete odabrati bicikl. Maršruta: Obale Dunava i Save, arhitektonski dometi iz doba socijalizma, staro jezgro Zemuna, zelena Ada Ciganlija i njene plaže. Polazak: Knez Mihailova ulica ispred zgrade Biblioteke grada Beograda, svakim danom u 14h Trajanje: četiri sata Cena: 15€ uključuje rentiranje bicikla, vodiča, prevoz brodom i besplatno piće Informacije: www.ibikebelgrade.com

BELGRADE FROM THE RIVERS BEOGRAD SA REKA SIX BRIDGES OF THE SAVA RIVER & KAYAKING AROUND THE BIG WAR ISLAND

Belgrade tram in the 1960s

TRAMVAJ ZVANI BEOGRAD

Maršruta: Polazak sa okretnice kod ZOO vrta, ulica Tadeuša Košćuška, stajanje kod Kalemegdana, Pristanište, Karađorđeva ulica, Nemanjina, Resavska, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra do Vukovog spomenika, Kraljice Marije, Džordža Vašingtona, Cara Dušana do Beka. Polazak: petkom, od 19h do 20h/tura na srpskom/ subotom od 17h do 18h/ tura na srpskom Vreme trajanja: 60 minuta Rezervacije: Turistički informativni centar, Trg Republike 5, tel. 3281 859 Program razgledanja je besplatan, broj mesta je ograničen na 25 osoba Belgrade City Card - Your passport to the world of benefits and discounts! POPUST ZA SVA RAZGLEDANJA GRADA, UZ BELGRADE CITY CARD!

SUMMER | LETO 2013 BelGuest

The Tourist Organisation of Belgrade last summer promoted new sightseeing programmes from the rivers. They offer two attractive tours entitled “Belgrade Kayaking Adventures” designed and organised by the association Wild Serbia. Info: Wild Serbia, www.wildserbia.com, Tourist Organisation of Belgrade, www. tob.rs

ŠEST MOSTOVA SAVE I KAJAKING OKO RATNOG OSTRVA

Turistička organizacija Beograda je ovog leta promovisala nove programe razgledanja grada sa reka. Reč je o dve atraktivne ture pod nazivom “Beogradske kajak avanture” koje je osmislila i organiziovala asocijacija Wild Serbia. Info: Wild Serbia, www.wildserbia.com, Tristička organizacija Beograda, www. tob.rs

YAHTING CLUB KEJ

Panoramic sightseeing of the city and a cruise with musical accompaniment and an a la carte dinner. Departure point: Ušće bb, daily at 8pm Duration: 2 hours Information: www.klubkej.com

JAHTING KLUB KEJ

Panoramsko razgledanje grada i krstarenja s muzičkim programom i večerom a la carte. Polazak: Jahting Klub Kej, Ušće bb, svakog dana u 20h Informacije: www.klubkej.com

BEOGRAD 25

Regular panoramic sightseeing tours. Cruising route: Dorćol, Great War Island, Kalemegdan, Usće, Port of Belgrade, Belgrade bridges, Ada Ciganlija, Ada Međica, Dorćol. Departure point: Sports Centre Milan Gale Muškatirović, daily at 6:30pm & 8:20pm Duration: 90 minutes Informaton: www.jpmgm.co.rs

BEOGRAD 25

Redovno panoramsko razgledanje grada. Linija plovidbe: Dorćol, Veliko ratno ostrvo, Kalemegdan, Ušće, Luka Beograd, mostovi grada, Adi Ciganlija, Ada Međica, Dorćol. Polazak: Sportski centar Milan Gale Muškatirović, svakog dana u 18:30 h i 20:20 h Trajanje: 1,5 h Informacije: www.jpmgm.co.rs

SIGHTSEEING OF BELGRADE FROM THE RIB DINGHY

Experience something special. Enjoy Belgrade sightseeing from the Sava and Danube by sailing an RIB dinghy. Possibility of hiring boats for group tours. Information: www.advanceboat.com

RAZGLEDANJE BEOGRADA RIB ČAMCEM

Doživite nešto posebno. Uživajte u razgledanju Beograda sa Save i Dunava vozeći se RIB čamcem. Iznajmljivanje brodova za grupne obilaske. Informacije: www.advanceboat.com

SPECIAL TOURS SPECIJALNE TURE RAKIA TOUR OF BELGRADE

Tasting five different kinds of Rakia, served with appropriate snacks, in three different places in Belgrade, with the services of a professional guide in Serbian, English, French or Italian Departure: Upon request, from one of Belgrade’s Rakia bars Information: www.metropoliten.com &www.rakiabar.com. Bookings: Glob Metropoliten Tours

BEOGRADSKA RAKIJA TURA

Ukoliko želite da osetite autentučni šarm Beograda i boemsku atmosferu uz organizovanu posetu Rakia barovima, gde uz pratnju stručnog vodiča možete više da saznate o rakiji i Beogradu i probate pet različitih rakija na tri različite lokacije koje se služe uz posebnu vrstu mezetluka koji pojačava i uokviruje sam ukus rakije. Polazak: Po dogovoru, iz jednog od Rakia barova. Informacije: www.metropoliten.com & www.rakiabar.com, Mob: 064/822-6626 Rezervacije: Glob Metropoliten Tours

TOURIST INFOMATION CENTRES TURISTIČKI INFORMATIVNI CENTRI www.tob.co.rs

TRAJAN BOAT CRUISES

Cruising route: Danube, Usće, Nebojša Tower, Belgrade bridges, Block 45, Ada Međica. Departure point: Hotel Jugoslavija, Friday, Saturday & Sunday at 6pm Informaton: www.donauships.com

KRSTARENJE BRODOM TRAJAN

Linija plovidbe: Dunav, Ušće, kula Nebojša, beogradski mostovi, Blok 45, Ada Međica. Polazak: Hotel Jugoslavija, petkom, subotom i nedeljom u 18 h Informacije: www.donauships.com

5 Knez Mihailova Street /Knez Mihailova 5 (Weekdays & Saturday from 9am to 9pm, Sundays 10am-3pm) Airport Nikola Tesla /Aerodrom Nikola Tesla (every day from 9am -10 pm) Main Railway Station /Glavna železnička stanica (Mondays through Frydays from 8 am to 8pm; Saturdays & Sundays from 8am to 4pm) Sava Peer /Savsko pristanište, Karađorđeva b.b. (every day from 8am to 7pm) Zemun Tourist Centre /Turistički centar Zemun, Zmaj Jovina14 (Mondays through Frydays from 9am to 3pm, Saturdays, from 9am to 1pm) TOS Information Center /Informativni centar TOS Čika Ljubina 8/I (Mondays through Saturdays from 9am to 9pm )

BelGuest SUMMER | LETO 2013

L O

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GUARANTEED DEPARTURE TOURS REGULAR BELGRADE CITY TOUR Departures: Monday-Saturday Departure place: in front of Hotel Balkan or pick up fropm hotel Starting time: 10.50 Duration: 150 minutes with photo stop + walking part of tour, accompanied by an English speaking guide Price: 20 Eur per person Due to the limited space, reservation needed . Route: -Visit to Kalemegdan park and Belgrade fortress with remains of the ancient city of Singidunum, today Belgrade. The city was founded by a Celtic tribe in the 3rd century B.C. Later on, it was conquered by the Romans and became a part of „the military frontier’ between the Roman Empire and the barbaric Central Europe. -Visit to the Serbian Orthodox Cathedral (Saborna crkva), built in 1837, in

Summer | Leto 2013 BelGuest

the style of classicism with late baroque elements, by the order of the Prince Milos Obrenovic. The church is dedicated to Archangel Michael. The special significance of the church is its valuable treasury. -The tour continues through the center of the town: the Manor of Princess Ljubica, the Republic Square, the Building of the Parlament, the National Theatre, the National Museum, hotel »Moskva», the National Assembly, Vuk Karadzic foundation, monument of Nikola Tesla.. -Visit to the biggest Otrhodox church in the Balkan Peninsula. Saint Sava Cathedral is built on the place where Turkish Sinan-pasha burned the remains of Saint Sava. Preparation for the construction of one of the largest orthodox churches on the world started way back in 1894. Although opened, the interior is not still completed.

EXCURSION TO OPLENAC Departures: every Thursday and Saturday Departure Place: in front of Hotel Balkan or pick up from hotel Starting time: 14.00 Duration: Half Day Tour with English speaking guide Price: 60 Eur per person Minimum 2 persons Route: Topola is a town in the very heart of Šumadija, in the vineyards area, known for the world famous wine production. This town was the center of many historical events during the 18th, 19th and 20th century. Visit to the town of Djordje Petrovic Karadjordje - the leader of the Serbs during the First Uprising and a memory complex devoted to him. A famous monument of Karadjordje is in the center of the plateau, surrounded by the remains of Karadjordje fortress with three story towers built between 1811 and 1813.; two residences, now museums and the Church of the Birth of the Virgin Mary with iconostasis and frescoes on the walls. On the hill of Oplenac, above Topola, there is a complex comprising of the St. George Church, the Karadjordjevic Dinasty Mausoleum and the house of the royal family Karadjordjevic. Famous mosaics in the Church and in the crypt are the best achievements of fresco painting in Serbia. The relics of the Karadjordjevic dynasty are placed in the crypt. The Mausoleum, built by King Petar Ist, is covered with white marble from nearby Vencac Mountain and from Carrara in Italy. The house of Petar Karadjordjevic, opposite the Church built in 1912., was the summer residence of the King. EXCURSION TO THE CITY OF NOVI SAD Departures: every Wednesday and Saturday Departure Place: in front of Hotel Balkan or pick up from hotel. Starting time: 14.00 Duration: Half Day Tour with English speaking guide Price: 60 Eur per person Minimum two persons Route: Novi Sad - The border area during the great Austro-Turkish war, now it is a cultural, economic and trade center. Visit to the Greek school, Old Matica Srpska Library and Gallery, the Orthodox Cathedral with its famous iconostasis (1742-1880) and medieval history scenes by the great Serbian painter Paja Jovanovic, St. Nicolas, Almaska and the Church of Assumption and Beljanski Memorial. Petrovaradin Fortress - The Fortress located across the Danube is called the “Gibraltar of the Danube” because of its strategic role through the centuries. Today it is a town museum. INFO Glob Metropoliten Tours- Lufthansa City Center” has right to correct the price depending on the rate of exchange. This program is in accordance to Glob Metropoliten Tours and YUTA General conditions of travel rules. For further information lease contact : “GLOB METROPOLITEN TOURS-LUFTHANSA CITY CENTER Beograd, Makenzijeva 26, tel/fax: 381/11 -2430 899; 2430 852 e-mail: glob@metropoliten.com www.metropoliten.com www.travelserbiabelgrade.com original, Licenca OTP 133/2010. - 05.02.2010

BelGuest Summer | Leto 2013

DOGAĐAJI

SRBIJA| EVENTS SERBIA

EXIT

10th -14 th July, Petrovaradin Fortress, Novi Sad

10 - 14. jul, Petrovaradinska tvrđava, Novi Sad

AWAKEN PETROVARADIN NIGHTS

BUDNE PETROVARADINSKE NOĆI

onceived as a student and a political movement back in 2000, Exit has over the years become the most famous music festival in the region. The slogan of this year’s Exit “R:Evolution Continues,” which refers to the continuous development of the festival, the increase in the number of visitors, artists, and also the number of festival days this year. So, we will see five days of great time with music stars such as Nick Cave, Ceelo Green, Snoop Dogg aka Snoop Lion, The Prodigy Fatboy Slim, Eric Prydz, David Guetta and many others. Info: www.exitfest.org

HaymakING oN mT. RajaC

astao kao studentski i politički pokret davne 2000. godine, Exit je tokom godina postao najpoznatiji muzički festival u regionu. Slogan ovogodišnjeg Exita je „R:evolucija se nastavlja“, što upućuje na stalno razvijanje festivala, porast broj posetilaca, izvođača, a ove godine i festivalskih dana. Dakle, predstoji nam pet dana dobrog provoda uz muzičke zvezde kao što su Nick Cave, Ceelo Green, Snoop Dog aka Snoop Lion, The Prodigy Fatboy Slim, Eric Prydz, David Guetta i mnogi drugi. Info: www.exitfest.org

koSIDBa Na RajCU

13th -15th July, Rajac

13-15. jul, Rajac

THE SMELL OF MOWED GRASS

MIRIS POKOŠENE TRAVE

aymaking on mt. Rajac is a traditional event, which symbolically represents the volunteer haymaking, formally marking an end of mowing mountain meadows. The main event is a competition in mountain grass mowing, and during the breaks, there is a rich programme for everyone – concerts, folk partying, sports tournaments, workshops, and counselling, an exhibition of agricultural machinery, etc... Info: www.kosidba.com

Summer | Leto 2013 BelGuest

osidba na Rajcu je tradicionalna manifestacija, koja simbolično predstavlja mobu i svečani završetak košenja livada. Centralni događaj je takmičenje u košenju planinske trave, a u pauzama bogat program za svačiji ukus – koncerti, narodno poselo, sportski turniri, radionice i savetovališta, izložba poljoprivredne mehanizacije... Info: www.kosidba.com

DOGAĐAJI

SRBIJA| EVENTS SERBIA

20TH FILm FESTIVaL PaLIĆ

20. FILmSkI FESTIVaL PaLIĆ

BEST EUROPEAN FILM MAKERS

NAJBOLJI EVROPSKI KADROVI

13th -19th July, Palić and Subotica

his year the festival celebrates its double anniversary – 20 years since it was founded and 10 years since it oriented itself towards the European cinema. So, the audience will be able to view all the winning films of the last ten editions of the festival. The Summer Stage in the centre of the rustic park beside Lake Palić will feature the main programme that will display the most important European works of film art. The best films will be awarded the Golden Tower for the best film, the Palić Tower for the best director, and the international critics’ jury will award the Tolerance award for Best Film from the programme Parallels and Encounters. Info: www.palicfilmfestival.com

13-19. jul, Palić i Subotica

ve godine Festival slavi dvostruki jubilej – 20 godina postojanja i 10 godina orijentacije ka evropskoj kinematografiji, te će publika moći da pogleda sve nagrađene filmove u poslednjih deset izdanja festivala. Na Letnjoj pozornici u centru rustičnog parka kraj Palićkog jezera u okviru glavnog takmičarskog programa biće prikazana najznačajnija evropska ostvarenja. Najboljim filmovima biće dodeljene nagrade Zlatni toranj za najbolji film, Palićki toranj za najbolju režiju, a međunarodni žiri kritike dodeliće Tolerance award za najbolji film iz programa Paralele i sudari. Info: www.palicfilmfestival.com

BelGuest Summer | Leto 2013

DOGAĐAJI SRBIJA | EVENTS SERBIA 53RD DRaGaČEVo BRaSS FESTIVaL

53. DRaGaČEVSkI SaBoR TRUBaČa

HAPPY TRUMPET SOUNDS

VESELI ZVUCI TRUBE

5th -11th August, Guča

he Dragačevo Brass Festival is a unique competition of folk brass bands in the world. The sound the trumpet this year will be followed by sightseeing, an exhibition of old crafts, literary meetings, competition of toasts, folk all-around competition, the most beautiful national costumes, cultural and art programmes by foreign guests... This year’s festival will be hosted by Emir kusturica, who on 8th august will be performing with The No Smoking orchestra, while the concert by Goran Bregović is planned for the finale of the festivities. Info: www.saborguca.com

NIŠVILLE jaZZ FESTIVaL

5 - 11. avgust, Guča

ragačevski sabor je u svetu jedinstveno takmičenje narodnih trubačkih orkestara. Zvuk trube ove godine će pratiti i turistička razgledanja, izložba Stari zanati, književni susreti, takmičenje zdravičara, narodni višeboj, izbor najlepše narodne nošnje, kulutrno-umetnički programi gostiju iz inostranstva... Domaćin ovogodišnje Smotre biće Emir kusturica, koji će 8. avgusta nastupiti sa The no smoking orchestrom, dok je za završnicu veselja zakazan koncert Gorana Bregovića. Info: www.saborguca.com

NIŠVILLE jaZZ FESTIVaL

15th-18th August, Niš Fortress

15 - 18. avgust, Niška tvrđava

GODFATHERS OF SWING

KUMOVI SVINGA

išvillle is one of the most prestigious jazz festival in Southeastern Europe. The world-renowned jazz players have been playing in Niš for three decades, and Nišvillle has hosted the biggest names of the local and international jazz scene. It will do so again this year. The festival will be opened by the “Godfathers of Swing” – the charismatic showman Ray Gelato and his band Giants of jive. They will be followed by other jazz greats: Hubert Tubbs & Blues and Soul Revue, Ginger Baker jazz Confusion, adam Nussbaum ZZ Quartet, a young Norwegian saxophonist marius Neset, Ron Carter Golden Striker Trio, Bobby Carcasses... Info: www.nisville.com

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išville je jedan od najprestižnijih džez festival jugoistočne Evrope. Svetski džez se svira u Nišu već tri decenije, a Nišville je ugostio najveća imena domaće i strane džez scene. Tako će učini i ove godine. Festival će otvoriti „kumovi svinga“ – harizmatični šoumen Ray Gelato i njegov sastav Giants of jive. a onda će nastaviti da se ređaju i drugi velikani džeza: Hubert Tubbs & Blues and Soul Revue, Ginger Baker jazz Confusion, adam Nusbaum ZZ Quartet, mladi norveški saksofonista marius Neset, Ron Carter & Golden Striker Triom, Bobby Carcasses... Info: www.nisville.com

DOGAĐAJI SRBIJA | EVENTS SERBIA

FESTIVaL “NUŠIĆIjaDa”

FESTIVaL NUŠIĆIjaDa

30th August - 1st September, Ivanjica

30. avgust - 1. septembar, Ivanjica

BOUND FOR IVANJICA!

VIĐENI STE ZA IVANJICU

he renewed festival of culture, entertainment, and the old-town spirit – Nušićijada – will be held this year for the fourth time. The 2013 Nušićijada will have all of its now traditional features: people dressed in costumes from the nineteenth and early twentieth century will be strolling down Ivanjica, while Branislav Nušić will re-introduce a special three-day festival with no woes, disputes nor closing time limitation, and the guests will enjoy theatre performances, music concerts, performances, exhibitions and, of course, the special tavern atmosphere. Info: www.nusicijada.rs

bnovljeni ivanjički festival kulture i zabave, starogradskog i čaršijskog duha - Nušićijada - održaće se ove godine po četvrti put. ovogodišnju Nušićijadu krasiće sve njena, sada već tradicionalna obeležja: gradom će defilovati svet odeven u kostime s kraja 19. i početka 20. veka, Branislav Nušić ponovo će uvesti poseban trodnevni festivalski režim bez boljki, razmirica i fajronta, dok će gosti uživati u pozorišnim predstavama, muzičkim koncertima, performansima, izložbama i, naravno, u posebnoj kafanskoj atmosferi. Info: www.nusicijada.rs

BelGuest Summer | Leto 2013

INFO: TOO Ivanjica, www.ivatourism.org

HOLIDAY IN IVANJICA

FEEL LIFE AND BEAUTY

n tourism sense, Ivanjica’s uniqueness lies in its natural beauty, hospitality and good quality food. In the 1970s, there was the first organised arrival of tourists in the village of Devići. A guest who once visits Kušići, Katići, Kumanica, Dajići, Komadina, Devići, Lisa, enchanted by the beauty, service and gastronomic offer, will always be happy to return to this area. Ivanjica is located at the foot of three mountains: Golija, Javor and Mučanj. Because of its exceptional natural beauty, Golija has been declared a natural park. UNESCO promoted it as a biosphere reserve, the only one in Serbia. In 2000, the government of the Republic of Serbia declared Ivanjica a health resort for the second time, because back in the 1930s, it was already a spa and climatic resort, on a par with Kotor, Cetinje and Dubrovnik. Villages located at places of intersection of Mediterranean and mountain climate are “responsible” for that. “Rose wind” is beneficial for people who have breathing problems. Spend just a few days there and you will visibly improve your health. The well-known “factory of red blood cells”, Special Rehabilitation Hospital, completes the offer for those whose health is poor. Ivanjica offers recommendable accommodation facilities in stunning, comfortable, modern hotels: Park, Western City, Logos-Katići, Javor-Kušići, as well as in private houses in downtown and in the villages in luxury villas (Angelina – Kušići, Pension Obradović – Katići , Ivanjica Residence, Golija Residence, Villa Avramović...). Those who wish to may go on a tour of the Roman bridge, the monasteries of Pridvorice and Kovilj, the monument to Major Ilić, the Stone Bridge, HadžiProdan’s cave... Besides the hunters meeting at the Golija Mountain, the festival of Serbian folk songs in Prilike, the festival of players of double-flutes and old instruments in Kušići, we single out and recommend the festival Nušićijada that has, after 40 years, returned to Ivanjica. BelgUeST

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ODMOR U IVANJICI

OSETI ŽIVOT I LEPOTU

turističkom smislu jedinstvenost Ivanjice ogleda se u prirodnim lepotama, gostoljublju i kvalitetnoj hrani. Sedamdsestih godina prošlog veka u selu Devići organizovan je prvi, pionirski, dolazak turista. Gost koji jednom dođe u Kušiće, Katiće, Kumanicu, Dajiće, Komadine, Deviće, Lisu... opčinjen lepotom, uslugom i gastro ponudom, rado se vraća u ove krajeve. Ivanjica je smeštena u podnožju tri planine: Golije, Javora i Mučnja. Golija je zbog izuzetnih prirodnih lepota, proglašena za Park prirode. Unesco ju je promovisao u Rezervat biosfere - jedini u Srbiji. Godine 2000-te Vlada Republike Srbije je Ivanjicu proglasila za vazdušnu banju po drugi put, jer je daleke 1930. godine već bila proglašena za banjsko i klimatsko mesto, zajedno sa Kotorom, Cetinjem i Dubrovnikom. Za to su “zaslužna” pojedina sela koja se nalaze na mestima na kojima se ukrštaju mediteranska i planinska klima. “Ruža vetrova” je blagotvorna za ljude koji imaju problema sa disajnim organima. Dovoljno je samo nekoliko dana za vidno poboljšanje zdravlja. Nadaleko poznata “fabrika crvenih krvnih zrnaca” - “Specijalna bolnica za rehabilitaciju”, upotpunjuje ponudu za one kojima je zdravlje narušeno. U Ivanjici su za svaku preporuku smeštajni kapaciteti u prelepim, konfornim, modernim hotelima: Park, Western City, Logos-Katići, Javor-Kušići, kao i u privatnom smeštaju u gradu i selima u luksuzno opremljenim vilama (Angelina - Kušići, Pansion Obradović - Katići, Ivanjički konaci, Golijski konaci, Vila Avramović…). Oni koji žele mogu poći u obilazak Rimskog mosta, manastira Pridvorice i Kovilja, spomenika majoru Iliću, Kamenom mostu, Hadži-Prodanovoj pećini... Pored Sabora lovaca na Goliji, Festivala Izvorne Srpske pesme u Prilikama, Sabora dvojničara i starih instrumenata Srbije u Kušićima izdvajamo Festival Nušićijadu koja je posle 40 godina vraćena u Ivanjicu. BelgUeST

A MAGIC BALL WORLD All that is most valuable and beautiful that a city, an area or a country has to offer was long ago enclosed in glass and made into a globe, traditionally one of the most beautiful travel souvenirs. Under the dome of the sky, on the slopes of the mountain Radan, along an imaginary circular path from Pločnik via Đavolja Varoš (Devil’s Town) all the way to Caričin Grad (Empress’ Town), among forests, bubbling springs and mineral waters, as well as deep layers of history, we uncover a distinctly unusual world – not unlike the world of the snow globes. Đavolja Varoš (Devil’s Town) – awe-inspiring earthen statues BelGuest Summer | Leto 2013

Site Pločnik – a millennium-long tradition of mining

he world of the radan area cluster comprises five municipalities with all of their tourist potential. the radan cluster, created as a unified tourist area at the end of last year, brings together the municipalities Kuršumlija, prokuplje, Bojnik, lebane and Medveđa and creates a common tourist offer, the concept for its promotion, as well as the guidelines for future development. the territories of these municipalities are home to four spas, three of which are in Kuršumlija; the natural monument Đavolja Varoš; the neolithic settlement pločnik; the Byzantine Caričin Grad (empress’ town); and a number of cultural and historical monuments. the very idea of a cluster as an immensely useful community, but first and foremost its intrinsic tourist potential, were enough of a reason for our BelGuest team to head for a visit to the radan area.

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METAL a couple of hours’ drive from Belgrade and we arrive at our first stop. not far from prokuplje, on a bank of the river toplica, deep in the neolithic, the settlement pločnik put down its roots. today this is an archaeological site discovered quite accidentally in 1927, when a large number of copper artefacts was found during the construction of a railway. the site was assumed to date to the early paleolithic, but the copper artefacts weren’t considered significant at first because they were thought to have been deposited there much later. the settlement stretched over about 110 hectares, an impressively large complex at the time, made up of three sections and flanked by rivers on all three sides. In recent years, pločnik has increasingly caught the eye of local and international archaeologists, the main reason being the latest discoveries indicating that this very settlement is the birthplace of metalworking. the discovery of copper tools and furnaces push back the origin of mining and metalworking half a millennium earlier than previously thought. pločnik is the archaeological proof that copper was worked there as early as the neolithic period within the Vinča culture. Metalworkers of pločnik often experimented with colourful miner-

als available to hand – blue azurite, light green malachite and red cuperite – all containing copper, as evidenced from the remains of malachite found on the inner surfaces of pottery. pločnik was the site of the discovery of a copper blade and a stone axe, estimated to be around 7500 years old, which confirms the fact that pločnik was the first location to produce metal tools in prehistory. archaeologists have also unearthed a furnace and smelting vessels decorated with copper. these discoveries establish the site as the oldest metalworking centre in the world. the reconstructed settlement, the hornbeam, straw and mud houses conjure up images of life in the neolithic to visitors. the inhabitants of pločnik practiced agriculture, handicraft, art and metalwork. their sense of aesthetics is fascinating, as can be seen from ceramic and copper figurines, with no utilitarian value, created only as an expression of the primeval, human sense of beauty. a curious atmosphere pervades the village. drawn out to the surface from the layers of time, alongside a river that still flows, it merges the past and the present into a unique experience. It draws parallels and asks questions. the answers speak of us.

WATER We travel on along the trail of beauty we have glimpsed. In prolom Banja, we are met by our host radovan tanasković, the president of the radan area cluster, a tourismologist involved with the development of tourism in the area for nearly half a century, under the auspices of the shareholding Company planinka a.d. this successful company is the backbone of the entire project. the shareholding Company planinka a.d. was founded in 1964 as a public company. since 1999, it has operated as a shareholding company owned by small shareholders, incorporating a bottling plant for the natural prolom water, prolom Banja and lukovska Banja, as well as being the custodian of the natural monument Đavolja Varoš (devil’s town). prolom Banja’s location comes as a surprise to every first-time visitor. located on the eastern slopes of radan at the altitude of about 600 metres, embraced by hillsides, forests and verdure, this spa is a balm for the eyes, the lungs and the soul. the water it is famous for, and which supplies the needs of all the hotel rooms, as well as the springs and the pools, belongs to a rare group of waters with a high balneological value. thanks to its unique characteristics, it offers numerous health

benefits. at a pH value of 9.2, its high alkalinity makes it ideal for achieving a balanced pH in the organism. this liquid treasure surrounds you throughout the length of your stay in prolom Banja. a short break and we move on. We continue our journey by jeep, because the roads that traverse radan meander and gambol almost as much as the springs that the mountain scattered all around us. radan is also famous for the phenomenon known as “split waters”. the intriguing fact about this phenomenon is that mountain streams split in two, and then descend the mountain slope alongside each other. according to the locals, mountain streams usually have only one course, so it’s unusual to find that a single stream has two courses running together only two metres apart. “split waters” aren’t radan’s only wonder. several locations in the municipality have been the site of an inexplicable phenomenon defying the law of gravity. on certain sections of the concrete road lebane – dobre Vode, idling cars seem to accelerate uphill. Water spilt on the concrete doesn’t flow down the road, but ascends instead. We’ll let scientists decide whether this is only an illusion due to the

A source in Prolom Spa

unusual terrain, or whether there are magnetic forces at work. For the purposes of tourism, all that is needed is a curiosity, which grows to become an attraction. PEOPLE travelling around the green vastness of radan, we stop occasionally to take in breathtaking views of the landscape. We listen to our host’s interesting stories. It is obvious that the former presence of romans in the area can be strongly felt to this day. We can see their trails almost every step of the way. all the towers of the radan area, such as Branko’s, Ivan’s or Mara’s tower, are remnants of roman castles, which were perfect watchtowers. during the roman age, this area was densely populated and interconnected with roads. the reason were its rich deposits of ore. the hill known as Branko’s tower is now home to a hamlet of the village rudare. according to Mr. tanasković, the 1455 ottoman census indicated that the steep slopes contained 41 households. If we multiply that number by at least five members for each household, we arrive at the number of some 200 inhabitants, which makes for an unusually large population. the ottomans carried out census meticulously, as that was their method of organising tax collection. the census further records that the people of the hamlet paid 40

A new church in Prolom Spa

BelGuest Summer | Leto 2013

Justiniana Prima – the peak of the sixth century architecture tubs of grapes, or about 2000 kilograms, as a tithe of the total production. By simple calculation, we come to the conclusion that grapevines were widespread throughout the slopes of Branko’s tower. this piece of information made our host explore the area, and he discovered that it abounds in wild grapevines. they are almost certainly 600 years old, and a plan is in place to domesticate them through grafting. If the process proves successful, tourists visiting radan will be served 600-year old grapes. the forest caresses us with its arching branches. at the foot of a tree, we notice several moss-covered mounds. We find out that those are roman graves. the road leads us on to the village Ivanje. We stop at a bend which offers a panoramic view of a series of mountaintops. We were treated to lunch by Zorica arsić at her inn. In this seclusion, surrounded by an almost wild nature, she greets guests and arms them with all the necessary information and choice morsels. We move on. next stop – Caričin Grad (empress’town). ROCK there are moments which, as a journalist, travelling and writing, you never forget. the soft glow of the setting sun shimmering on the stone remains of an ancient city, long shadows tangling in its

Summer | Leto 2013 BelGuest

barely outlined hallways, purple thyme flowers and the garland of mountaintops lining the horizon like sentries, complete the ideal sight. the sight that stays with you. Caričin Grad near lebane in southern serbia, or, as it was called in its prime, justiniana prima, was founded in 535 as an imperial undertaking subsuming all the expertise of urban planners and architects of the period. the city is simply a kind of architectural concentrate, a world exhibition of all known wonders of architecture. justiniana prima is girded by ramparts sprouting all types of towers, and the city’s core boasts of eight basilicas built as original and completely separate projects.

For thirteen and a half centuries, the city was lost on the gentle slopes of the valley of the river pusta reka. off the main roads, it waited to be discovered and roused from its long hibernation, and to shine resplendently with all its preserved beauty. the first news of significant remains of a city only spread at the end of the nineteenth century. the first person to describe the ruins was Mita rakić in 1880 in the newspaper otadžbina (Fatherland). justiniana prima emerged into the gaze of the serbs at the time as a wonder, a wellpreserved time machine which led all the way back to the 6th century and the emperor justinian, in comfort, mouth agape, eyes wide open. of

BASALT PILLARS Another natural phenomenon has recently joined the marvels of the special, stunning world of the mountain Radan. A stone wall has been discovered, made of blocks which, at first glance, seem to have been painstakingly carved out and laid by hand into a structure about a hundred metres long and ten metres tall. Our host Mr. Tanasković informs us that this phenomenon is exceedingly rare in nature. The hill at the foot of which we stand is a volcanic dome, and the stone blocks up to a metre long were created when lava came in contact with water soon after expulsion. All of this took place about a million years ago. A similar phenomenon has been recorded in Africa, and there’s also the famous Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland, which is under UNESCO’s protection. The basalt pillars of that structure are lined up vertically, whereas the wall in the mountain Radan is horizontal.

course, that was only possible for those able to see and understand. the author procopius, who delivered a panegyric on justinian’s architectural undertakings in his work Buildings of justinian, admires justiniana prima in the fourth volume: “Having built a water system, he bestowed upon the city an endless supply of water. Many other significant and noteworthy constructions were also built by the city’s founder. It is difficult to enumerate all the temples of God, impossible to describe all the administrative buildings, the breadth of the vestibules, the beauty of the squares, the fountains, the streets, the bathhouses, the shops. In a word, it was a great and populous city...” the first exploration of Caričin Grad as a sixth century early Byzantine settlement took place in 1912. several excavations were conducted in different periods, and what exists today as archaeological fact confirms, by the urbanistic layout and the priceless mosaic floors, procopius’s description of the majestic city. some ten years ago, the first exhaustive digital reconstruction of the objects from justiniana prima was carried out. For the first time, thanks to Vladan Zdravković and Miloš urošević, we have the opportunity to step into the buildings of Caričin Grad using digital 3d animation. We can, for example, stroll into the episcopal basilica as if we were the residents of the city. torn between the fascinating images of the digitally reconstructed objects and the beauty of the classical archaeological findings, most particularly the exquisite mosaics, I realise that bringing justiniana prima closer to the eyes and, more importantly, the soul of the average twenty-first century mortal opens the hallways of time through which we can communicate with the “ideal city” and the nucleus of the Balkans at the time. EARTH the morning brings the rain, but also a new destination. the road takes us to Đavolja Varoš. even at the first glance, having just found ourselves here, we realise that the folk of this area, at a loss for words to explain this natural phenomenon, committed a grave error in naming the petrified town after the devil. the beauty of the strange procession of the rock formations is fascinating, as is the surrounding landscape. the entire view has sparked the locals’ imagination for decades, resulting in the legends of wedding guests, newlyweds, devils, etc. the red pigment at the base of the 202 figures carved by strongly acidic mineral water has seduced mythmakers and storytellers. the formations are up to 15 metres tall, with

Radovan Tanasković, director of the Radan tourism cluster stone caps at the top, and they are the result of centuries-long erosion processes. this geomorphologic phenomenon can be seen at a few other locations in the world, such as Italy, but what sets the rock formations of Đavolja Varoš apart is their longevity. this kind of structure usually collapses within a year or two. It is that fact that made Đavolja Varoš serbia’s only representative in the new seven Wonders of nature campaign. the last stop on our tour of the radan area was lukovska Banja. Its altitude of 681 metres makes it the highest spa in serbia. the plentiful mineral waters, ranging in temperature for 38 to 68 degrees Celsius, hydrogen-sulphide dissolved in the therapeutic thermal water used in the treatment of rheumatic diseases, health trails on the slopes of mountaintops rising up as high as 1000 metres, the pristine air – these are just some of the features that place this spa at the very top of serbia’s spa tourism offer. the activities available to visitors are also varied: open-air handball, basketball, volleyball, tennis and futsal courts, a pool filled with the natural spring water at up to 36 degrees, making bathing out in the open possible during the winter, skiing, etc. With its local delicacies, notably wild pear rakija (brandy), wild cherry slatko (home-made sweet preserve),

cheese, kaymak (creamy dairy product, similar to clotted cream) and sač (a special type of griddle with a convex lid made of metal or earthenware keeping the meat juicy and succulent), the most common method of food preparation in the traditional ethnorestaurant – lukovska Banja completes its invitation to healing, rest, and also pleasure. a break before returning to Belgrade gives us time for a few more words with our host to complete our impression. the experienced tourismologist highlights the fact that only a unified tourist offer, consisting of a circular route encompassing the sequence of all three sites: pločnik, Caričin Grad and Đavolja Varoš, can serve as a framework for a modern tourist product. this sequence necessitates another fifteen kilometres of roads. this is one of the foremost goals of the cluster. the roads are there to connect, to link, to join. our journey slowly nears the starting point. the circle is there, with its elation at the unusual beauty and impressive contents of a part of our country left unjustifiably off the main roads – a circle to which, in fact, all roads should lead. DrAGANA mArKoVIĆ photographs: ĐorĐe ruSIĆ

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SVET IZ ČAROBNE KUGLE Sve ono najvrednije i najlepše što jedan grad, oblast ili država imaju odavno je zaokruženo staklom i smešteno u kuglu koja je tradicionalno jedan od najlepših suvenira sa putovanja. Pod svodom neba, na obroncima Radan planine, zamišljenom kružnom putanjom od Pločnika, preko Đavolje varoši do Caričinog grada, među gorama, skakutavim izvorima i lekovitim vodama, ali i dubokim naslagama istorije, otkrivamo jedan sasvim neobičan svet – nalik na onaj iz staklenih kugli. 78

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Panorama of Radan Mountain

vet Klastera radan područja čini pet opština sa svojim celokupnim turističkim potencijalom. promovisan krajem prošle godine, Klaster radan objedinio je opštine Kuršumlija, prokuplje, Bojnik, lebane i Medveđa u zajedničkoj turističkoj ponudi, njenoj promociji, ali i smernicama daljeg razvoja. na teritorijama tih opština su četiri banje, od kojih su tri u Kuršumliji, prirodni spomenik Đavolja varoš, neolitsko naselje pločnik, vizantijski Caričin grad i mnogobrojni kulturno-istorijski spomenici. sama ideja klastera, kao više nego korisnog zajedništva, ali pre svega turistički potencijal koji taj klaster sadrži u sebi, bili su dovoljan razlog da se ekipa BelGuesta uputi u pohod području radan.

METAL nekoliko sati vožnje od Beograda i zaustavljanje na prvoj stanici. nedaleko od prokuplja, na obali toplice, tamo daleko u neolitu smestilo se naselje pločnik. danas je to arheološki lokalitet sasvim slučajno otkriven 1927. godine, kada je prilikom izgradnje železničke pruge pronađen veliki broj bakarnih predmeta. Za nalazište se pretpostavljalo da potiče iz mlađeg kamenog doba, ali se bakarnim predmetima u početku nije pridavao veliki značaj, jer se smatralo da su oni tu dospeli znatno kasnije. naselje se prostiralo na oko 110 hektara, što je za to doba bio izuzetno veliki kompleks, bilo je sastavljeno od tri celine i omeđeno rekama sa sve tri strane. poslednjih godina pločnik je sve češće predmet interesovanja domaćih i međunarodnih arheologa. razlog su najnovija otkrića, koja ukazuju na to da je upravo ovo naselje najstarije mesto na svetu u kome je začeta metalurgija. dosadašnji nalazi bakarnih oruđa i peći pomeraju početak rudarstva i metalurgije za pola milenijuma ranije u odnosu na prethodna verovanja. pločnik je arheološki dokaz da se još u vinčanskoj kulturi i mlađem kamenom dobu prerađivala ruda bakra. na obradi metala u pločniku rado je eksperimentisano raznobojnim mineralima koji su bili pri ruci – plavi azurit, svetlozeleni malahit i crveni kuperit – svi sadrže bakar, što je vidljivo po pronađenim ostacima malahita na unutrašnjosti posuda. na nalazištu pločnik pronađeni su bakarno sečivo i kamena sekira, za koje se procenjuje da su stari 7.500 godina, što potvrđuje činjenicu da je pločnik prvo mesto u kome su proizvođeni metalno oruđe i alatke u praistoriji. arheolozi su takođe pronašli peć i posude za topljenje, ukrašene bakrom. sva ova otkrića ukazuju na to da je reč o najstarijem metalurškom centru na svetu. rekonstrukcija naselja, kuće od grabovog drveta, slame i blata, posetiocu stvaraju sliku o životu u neolitu. stanovnici pločnika bavili su se poljoprivredom, rukotvorinama, umetnošću i metalurgijom.

Zadivljuje njihov odnos prema lepoti, o čemu svedoče keramičke i bakarne figurine, bez upotrebne vrednosti, stvorene samo po iskonskom ljudskom osećaju za lepo. nekim čudnim mirom odiše selo. Izvučeno iz naslaga vremena na površinu zemlje, pored reke koja i dalje teče, spaja u jedinstven doživljaj vreme prošlo i vreme sadašnje. Izvlači paralele, postavlja upitnike. odgovori su o nama. VODA tragom lepote koju smo dotakli putujemo dalje. u banji prolom očekuje nas naš domaćin radovan tanasković, predsednik Klastera radan područja, turizmolog koji se već oko pola veka bavi turističkom ponudom ovog kraja, pod okriljem „planinke“ ad. ta uspešna kompanija okosnica je čitavog projekta. današnje akcionarsko društvo „planinka“ osnovano je 1964. godine kao društveno preduzeće. od 1999. posluje kao akcionarsko društvo u vlasništvu malih akcionara, objedinjujući u sebi fabriku za pakovanje prirodne „prolom vode“, prolom banju i lukovsku banju, a takođe je staralac spomenika prirode Đavolja Varoš. prolom banja će svakog ko se u njoj prvi put zadesi iznenaditi svojim položajem. smeštena na istočnim padinama planine radan, izdignuta od nivoa mora za oko 600 metara, ušuškana obroncima, gorama, zelenilom, ta banja je odmor za oko, pluća i dušu. Voda po kojoj je poznata, a kojom su, pored izvora i bazena, opskrbljene sve hotelske sobe, pripada retkoj grupi voda visokih balneoloških vrednosti. Zahvaljujući jedinstvenim odlikama ispoljava višestruko blagotvorno dejstvo na organizam. njena visoka alkalnost, čija je vrednost pH 9,2, čini je idealnom za uspostavljanje pH ravnoteže u organizmu. tim tečnim blagom skoro da ste okruženi sve vreme boravka u banji. Kratak predah i krećemo dalje. put produžavamo džipom, jer su putevi kojima je umrežena radan planina skakutavi i vijugavi skoro kao i planinski potoci kojima na sve strane suzi gora. radan je poznat i po fenomenu „deli vode“. ono što je zanimljivo kod tog fenomena jeste da se planinski potoci dele u dva toka, a zatim se jedan pored drugog spuštaju niz padinu. Kako kažu stanovnici ovog kraja, planinski potoci uglavnom imaju samo jedan tok, zato je čudno da na udaljenosti od svega dva metra isti potok ima dva toka. „deli vode“ nisu jedino čudo radana. u Bojničkoj opštini na nekoliko mesta događa se neobjašnjiv

BelGuest Summer | Leto 2013

The monastery of Saint Nikola (twelve century), Kuršumlija fenomen, suprotan zakonu gravitacije. na pojedinim delovima asfaltnog puta lebane–dobre Vode automobil izbačen iz brzine kao da kreće uzbrdo i to sve više ubrzavajući. Voda prosuta po asfaltu ne sliva se niz put, već kreće ka uzvišenju. da li je ovo samo privid nastao čudnovatom konfiguracije terena, ili su na delu neke magnetne sile, ostavićemo naučnicima da dokuče. turizmu je dovoljna samo zanimljivost, a ova je prerasla u atrakciju. LJUDI putujući zelenim prostranstvom radana zaustavljamo se povremeno da bez daha pustimo pogled sa vidikovca. slušamo zanimljive priče našeg domaćina. jasno je da je i danas neobično izraženo nekadašnje prisustvo rimljana u ovim krajevima. tragove čitamo skoro na svakom koraku. sve kule radanskog kraja, poput Brankove, Ivanove

ili Marine, ostaci su rimskih kastela, koji su bili savršene osmatračnice. u rimsko doba kraj je bio gusto naseljen i isprepleten putevima. njegovo rudno bogatstvo bilo je razlog za to. na brdu poznatom po nazivu Brankova kula danas postoji zaselak sela rudara. prema rečima gospodina tanaskovića, turski popis iz 1455. godine beleži da je baš tu, na tim strmim padinama živelo 41 domaćinstvo. ako se ta brojka pomnoži bar sa pet članova, dolazimo do broja od oko 200 ljudi, što je neuobičajeno velika naseljenost. turci su tačno popisivali stanovništvo, jer su na taj način organizovali ubiranje poreza. u spisku dalje stoji da su ljudi iz tog zaseoka davali 40 čabara grožđa, negde oko 2.000 kilograma, kao desetak od ukupne proizvodnje. jednostavnom računicom dolazimo do podatka da je na padinama Brankove kule vinova loza bila široko rasprostranjena. ta činjenica navela je našeg domaćina da

BAZALTNI STUBOVI U poseban i čaroban svet Radan planine nedavno se upisao još jedan prirodni fenomen. Otkriven je kameni zid sačinjen od blokova koji na prvi pogled izgledaju kao da ih je ljudska ruka pažljivo klesala i ređala u površinu dugu oko sto i visoku deset metara. Od našeg domaćina gospodina Tanaskovića saznajemo da je takva pojava retka u prirodi. Brdo pod kojim se pojavio zid vulkanska je kupa, a njegovi kameni blokovi dužine i do jednog metra nastali su tako što je vulkanska lava nakon izlivanja brzo došla u dodir s vodom. A sve se to dogodilo pre nekih milion godina. Sličan fenomen zabeležen je u Africi, postoji i čuveni Džinovski most u Severnoj Irskoj, koji je pod zaštitom Uneska. Bazaltni stubovi koji čine taj most u vertikalnom su poretku, dok je zid na Radanu horizontalan.

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istraži to područje. naišao je na divlje čokote grožđa u izobilju. oni su sasvim izvesno preživeli šeststo godina i ideja je da se kalemljenjem pripitome. ako čitav taj proces uspe, turistima će se na radanu služiti grožđe staro šest vekova. Šuma nas nežno dodiruje lukovima ispletenim od granja. u podnožju jednog stabla ugledali smo nekoliko humki pokrivenih mahovinom. saznajemo da su to rimski grobovi. put nas vodi dalje do sela Ivanje. Zastajemo na prevoju, panoramski pogled obuhvata skalu vrhova. ručak nam je u svom pansionu pripremila Zorica arsić. u toj osami, okružena skoro divljom prirodom, ona sačekuje goste, naoruža ih svim potrebnim informacijama i biranim zalogajima. Krećemo dalje. sledeća stanica je – Caričin grad. KAMEN postoje trenuci koje kao novinar, putujući i beležeći, nikada ne zaboravite. Meko svetlo zalazećeg sunca rasuto po kamenim ostacima drevnog grada, duge senke isprepletene njegovim tek naznačenim hodnicima, ljubičasti cvetovi majčine dušice i ukrug zatvorena linija vrhova na horizontu, poput čuvara prizora, zaokružuju idealan kadar za oko. onaj koji ostaje u sećanju. Caričin grad kod lebana, na jugu srbije, ili kako je u njegovoj epohi nazivan justinijana prima, podig-

nut 535. godine, carski je poduhvat u okviru koga su sublimirana sva znanja urbanista i arhitekata toga doba. Grad je naprosto neka vrsta arhitektonskog koncentrata, onovremena svetska izložba na kojoj su prikazana sva tada poznata graditeljska čuda. justinijana prima je opasana bedemima na kojima su nazidani svi tipovi kula, a u gradskom jezgru podignuto je osam bazilika po originalnim i potpuno različitim projektima. Grad je trinaest i po vekova bio izgubljen na blagim padinama u dolini puste reke. Van glavnih putnih tokova, čekao je da bude otkriven i iz dugotrajne hibernacije jednostavno blesne svojom sačuvanom lepotom. prve vesti o značajnim ostacima grada šire se tek krajem 19. veka. ruševine je prvi opisao Mita rakić 1880. godine u listu otadžbina. justinijana prima izronila je pred lica ondašnjih srba kao čudo, kao dobro očuvana vremenska mašina kojom se udobno, otvorenih usta i razrogačenih očiju, moglo putovati sve do šestog veka i cara justinijana. naravno, to su mogli samo oni koji su to umeli da vide i shvate. pisac prokopije, koji u svom delu „o građevinama“ panegirički opisuje justinijanove građevinske poduhvate, u četvrtoj knjizi divi se justinijani primi: „sazidavši tamo vodovod, postiže da grad neprekidno obiluje nepresušnom vodom. I mnogo drugih znatnih i pomena dostojnih građevina sagradio je osnivač grada. nije lako pobrojati sve hramove božje, nemoguće je opisati sve zgrade za nadleštva, veličinu tremova, lepotu trgova, česme, ulice, kupatila, prodavnice. Beše to prosto naprosto grad velik i mnogoljudan...“ prvo istraživanje Caričinog grada kao ranovizantijskog naselja iz šestog veka obavljeno je 1912. godine. Iskopavanja su rađena u više navrata, a to što danas postoji kao arheološka činjenica potvrđuje i po svojoj urbanističkoj postavci i po skupocenim mozaičkim podovima prokopijev opis velelepnog grada. pre desetak godina sačinjena je i opsežna kompjuterska restitucija objekata iz justinijane prime. Zahvaljujući Vladanu Zdravkoviću i Milošu uroševiću, prvi put imamo priliku da kroz kompjutersku trodimenzionalnu animaciju zakoračimo u te građevine. Možemo, recimo, da ušetamo u episkopsku baziliku kao da smo žitelji grada. razapet između divnih slika računarski rekonstruisanih objekata i lepote klasičnih arheoloških pronalazaka, što posebno važi za mozaike, shvatam kako približavanje justinijane prime očima i još više duši prosečnog smrtnika sa početka 21. veka otvara hodnike vremena kroz koje možemo da komuniciramo sa „idealnim gradom“ i tadašnjim nukleusom Balkana.

Empress’ Town, 3D reconstruction of the baptistery, Vladan Zdravković

BelGuest Summer | Leto 2013

INFO: prolom spa, www.prolombanja.com Đavolja Varoš (devil’s town), www.djavoljavaros.com Caričin Grad (empress’ town), ivstinianaprima.wordpress.com site pločnik, muzejtoplice.org.rs lukovska spa, www.lukovskabanja.com

The magnificent colonnade of earthen statues ZEMLJA jutro nam je donelo kišu, ali i novu odrednicu. put nas vodi ka Đavoljoj varoši. Već na prvi pogled, obrevši se na tom mestu, shvatamo da je narod ovog kraja, u nemogućnosti da objasni prirodni fenomen, načinio grubu grešku kada je okamenjenoj varoši nadenuo ime đavolja. lepota zemljanih skulptura u čudnoj povorci zadivljuje podjednako kao i okolni pejzaž. čitav prizor je decenijama golicao maštu stanovnika toga kraja, tako da su u legende prizvali svatove, mladence, đavole... Crvena boja u potki 202 figure nastale erozijom pod dejstvom izvora jako kisele i mineralizovane vode, zavela je tvorce mitova i legendi. Figure su visoke i do 15 metara, sa kamenim kapama na vrhovima, i rezultat su erozivnih procesa koji traju vekovima. takav geomorfološki fenomen postoji na još nekoliko lokacija u svetu, između ostalog i u Italiji, ali se zemljane figure iz Đavolje varoši razlikuju od svih drugih dužinom svoga trajanja. obično se takav fenomen razruši za godinu ili dve. taj podatak je i uvrstio Đavolju

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varoš kao jedinog predstavnika srbije za izbor u „7 svetskih čuda prirode“. poslednja stanka u našem obilasku radan područja bila je lukovska banja. nadmorska visina od 681 metar čini je najvišom banjom u srbiji. obilje izvora mineralnih voda, čije su temperature od 38 do 68 stepeni Celzijusovih, rastvoreni vodonik-sulfid, koji sadrži termalna voda što se koristi za lečenje, a pogoduje reumatskim oboljenjima, staze zdravlja po obroncima vrhova visokih i do hiljadu metara, kristalno čist vazduh – samo su neke od odlika koje tu banju izdižu u sam vrh banjskog turizma srbije. sadržaji dostupni posetiocima takođe su raznovrsni: otvoreni sportski tereni za rukomet, košarku, odbojku, tenis, mali fudbal, bazen koji se puni vodom sa prirodnih izvora temperature i do 36 stepeni, pa je u njemu kupanje na otvorenom moguće i zimi, skijanje... uz lokalne specijalitete, gde svakako treba izdvojiti rakiju od divlje kruške, slatko od divljih trešanja, sir, kajmak i sač, kao najčešći oblik spremanja hrane u etno-restoranu

– lukovska banja zaokružuje poziv na lečenje, odmor, ali i uživanje. predah pre povratka za Beograd dovoljan je za još nekoliko rečenica sa domaćinom koje uokviruju sliku. Iskusni turizmolog podvlači da je samo objedinjena turistička ponuda, gde postoji kružna linija kretanja kojom su obuhvaćena u nizu sva tri lokaliteta: pločnik, Caričin grad i Đavolja varoš, okosnica savremenog turističkog proizvoda. Za taj niz potrebno je izgraditi još petnaestak kilometra puta. to je jedan od najznačajnijih ciljeva Klastera. putevi i jesu tu da spoje, umreže, povežu... naše putovanje lagano privodimo tački iz koje smo krenuli. Krug je tu, a u krugu istinska ushićenost neobičnom lepotom i dubokim sadržajem jednog dela naše zemlje koji je neopravdano ostao van glavnih puteva – a prema kome svi putevi, u stvari, treba da vode. DrAGANA mArKoVIĆ Fotografije: ĐorĐe ruSIĆ

TURKISH AIRLINES ADDS TURKISH AIRLINES OD JUNA 6 NEW DESTINATIONS IN JUNE LETI KA 6 NOVIH ODREDIŠTA While ranking among the world’s major airline companies with its impressive growth figures and already having the world’s 4th largest flight network by flying to 229 destinations in 100 countries, Turkish Airlines continues to grow by adding new destinations to its expanding network.

Turkish Airlines, jedna od najvećih svetskih aviokompanija sa impresivnim brojkama rasta i takođe četvrta aviokompanija na svetu po broju destinacija sa letovima do 100 zemalja i 229 destinacija, nastavlja da širi svoju mrežu letova.

ith existing services to Paris, Lyon, Nice and Toulouse, Turkish Airlines adds flights to Marseille as its 5th destination in France. Other than Marseille, new destinations of Turkish Airlines as of June 2013 are Constanta (Romania), Tallinn (Estonia), Vilnius (Lithuania), Luxembourg and Al-Qassim (Saudi Arabia). As of the beginning of this year, Turkish Airlines has introduced 16 new destinations, amongue them Houston (USA), Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia), Colombo (Sri Lanka), Aqaba (Jordan), Valetta (Malta), Santiago de Compostela (Spain). Last year Africa was a region with the biggest growth for Turkish Airlines. From 33 new destinations introduced last year, 15 of them are in Africa. This year Turkish Airlines is planning to continue its growth in Africa with the same speed by adding 9 new destinations to its network, 4 out of which will be in new countries. In total, Turkish Airlines will be flying to 43 destinations in 27 countries throughout Africa and in that way become the airline with the biggest number of flights to African continent. The destinations in Africa Turkish Airlines is planning to launch in 2013 are: Kano and Abuja in Nigeria, N’Djamena (Chad), Asmara (Eritrea), Luxor and Aswan (Egypt), Juba (South Sudan), Luanda (Angola), Oran (Algeria). Chad, Eritrea, South Sudan and Angola will be new countries in Turkish Airlines’ network. Turkish Airlines is flying twice daily from Belgrade to Istanbul – morning flight at 09:15 and evening flight at 20:20. Istanbul – Belgrade flights are being operated at 07:40 in the morning and 18:35 in the evening, also daily. For more information about Turkish Airlines flights visit www.turkishairlines.com or Turkish Airlines Belgrade office at Knez Mihailova Street 30/V , 00381 (0)11/ 3036 195.

a već postojećim letovima ka Parizu, Lionu, Nici i Tuluzu, Turkish Airlines dodaje Marsej kao petu destinaciju u Francuskoj. Osim Marseja, nove destinacije Turkish Airlines-a od juna ove godine su Konstanca (Rumunija), Talin (Estonija), Vilnjus (Litvanija), Luksemburg i Al-Kasim (Saudijska Arabija). Od početka 2013. godine Turkish Airlines leti ka 16 novih destinacija, među kojima su Hjuston (SAD), Kuala Lumpur (Malezija), Kolombo (Šri Lanka), Akaba (Jordan), Valeta (Malta), Santijago de Kompostela (Španija). Prošle godine Afrika je bila region sa najvećim rastom za Turkish Airlines. Od 33 nove destinacije koje su uvedene 2012. godine, 15 je u Africi. Plan za ovu godinu je da se ekspanzija u Africi nastavi istim tempom. Turkish Airlines će dodati 9 novih destinacija, od kojih će 4 biti u novim zemljama. Ukupan broj destinacija u Africi biće do kraja godine 43 u 27 zemalja, čime će ova kompanija postati najveća po broju letova ka afričkom kontinentu. Nove destinacije u planu za 2013. godinu su: Kano i Abudža u Nigeriji, Ndžamena (Čad), Asmara (Eritreja), Luksor i Asuan (Egipat), Džuba (Južni Sudan), Luanda (Angola), Oran (Alžir). Čad, Eritreja, Južni Sudan i Angola će biti nove zemlje ka kojima Turkish Airlines ostvaruje letove. Iz Beograda za Istanbul Turkish Airlines leti dva puta dnevno – ujutru u 09:15 i uveče u 20:20. Iz Istanbula za Beograd letovi se obavljaju ujutru u 07:40 i uveče u 18:35, takođe svakog dana. Za više informacija o kompaniji i njenim letovima posetite sajt www.turkishairlines.com ili poslovnicu Turkish Airlines-a u Knez Mihailovoj 30/V, 00381 (0)11/ 3036 195. BeLGueSt BelGuest Summer | Leto 2013

B R I T I S H

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

S C H O O L

SUCCESS AT WORLD EDUCATION GAMES

The British International School is celebrating 16 years in Serbia this year. Successful development of the school has resulted from hard work, raising the quality of teaching, and also continued presence of the school’s students at international competitions. This year, BIS students have already won the complimentary first-ranked title in Europe at the World Education Games in the discipline “World Science Day.”

ll students at the British International School, Belgrade (BIS) once again took part in the world’s largest online competition, the World Education Games, with some fantastic results. The competition consists of 3 contests, the World Maths Day, World Literacy Day and World Science Day with students competing against their peers throughout the world in one minute online educational games. Over 29,000 schools took part in this worldwide competition, with over 5 million students competing online in this week-long event, from over 170 countries. Here at BIS our students from 4 years old through to 18 all took part with students’ scores

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counting for themselves, their class, their school, the country and overall world total. BIS students helped with a Guinness World Record attempt and their correct answers were included in the 45 million spelling, 292 million arithmetic and 8.5 million Science answers. BIS as a school came 1st in Europe in the World Science Day and 6th in Europe for the World Literacy Day. STUDENT AMBASSADOR As well as our students competing we were also honoured to have one of only two WEG Student Ambassadors in Europe, with one of our Year 6 students, Cameron, being selected for this prestigious

role. Cameron spent his time before and during the event visiting many embassies as well as explaining at the school to the Ambassadors from the UK, Australia, Canada, Nigeria, Angola and senior representatives from many other embassies what this event is all about. In conjunction with this event students at BIS also raised over RSD 65,000 for the UNICEF project, Schools-in-a-Box which provides ready made school supply packs to schools in poor areas throughout the world. This was achieved through table top sales, cinema days, and a Primary nonuniform day. BeLGueSt

B R I T I S H

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

S C H O O L

USPEH NA SVETSKIM OBRAZOVNIM IGRAMA

Britanska internacionalna škola ove godine slavi 16 godina postojanja u Srbiji. Uspešan razvoj škole rezultat je napornog rada, podizanja kvaliteta nastave, ali i kontinuiranog prisustvo đaka na međunarodnoj takmičarskoj sceni. Ove godine, učenici BIS-a poneli su laskavu titulu prvoplasiranih u Evropi na „Svetskim obrazovnim igrama” u disciplini „Svetski dan nauke”.

vi učienici beogradske Britanske internacionalne škole su ove godine, kao i obično, uzeli učešće na „Svetskim obrazovnim igrama” - najvećem online takmičenju na svetu, i ostvarili fantastične rezultate! Ovo takmičenje sastoji se od tri pod takmičenja: „Svetskog dana matematike”, „Svetskog dana pismenosti” i „Svetskog dana nauke”. Vršnjaci širom sveta odgovaraju na postavljena pitanja u toku jednog online minuta. Ove godine, učestvovalo je preko 29.000 škola iz oko 170 zemalja u kojima se školuje preko pet miliona đaka. Online „Svetske obrazovne igre” traju nedelju dana. Na igrama su učestvovali svi učenici BIS-a, uzrasta od četri pa do osamnaest godina.

Oni su osvajali poene za sebe, za svoj razred, svoju školu, svoju zemlju i ukupan svetski rezultat. Učenici BIS -a ubeleženi su i u Ginisovu knjigu rekorda - njihovi odgovori su uključeni u zbir od 45 miliona spelovanja, 292 miliona aritmetičkih rezultata i 8,5 milona odgovora na pitanja iz oblasti nauke. U ukupnom plasmanu, BIS je zauzeo 1. mesto u Evropi u disciplini „Svetski dan nauke” i 6. mesto u disciplini „Svetski dan Pismenosti”. UČENIK AMBASADOR Osim ušešća na takmičenju, Britanska internacionalna škola je imala čast da njen učenik 6. razreda - Kameron - bude jedan od dva evropska đačka

ambasadora „Svetskih obrazovnih igara”. Kameron je pred početak takmičenja i u toku igara posetio mnoge ambasada ili je u samoj školi objašanjavao ambasadorima Ujedinjenog kraljevstva, Australije, Kanade, Nigerije, Angole... i drugim visokim zvaničnicima ciljeve i misiju „Svetskih obrazovnih igara” Takođe, učenici BIS su sakupili više od 65.000 dinara za UNICEF-ov projekat „Spakovana škola”, a reče je o paketu školskih učila namenjenih siromašnim zemljama širom sveta. Novac za ovu akciju prikupljen je na prodajnom bazaru, Danima bisokopa i danu kada profeseri i učenici zamenjuju uloge. BeLGueSt

BelGuest Summer | Leto 2013

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OUR DREAMS COME TRUE

In addition to its core business, Belgrade’s international school PRIMA, through its frequent and varied activities, teaches its students about humanity and love for mankind. The recently held charity event, “Walk a Mile for a Smile”, was organised by the Valjevo Association “Our Dreams”, which helps children with special needs. The message was clear and unequivocal: there is diversity and we must not look away when there is someone there who is different from us. The success of the event was fantastic.

s part of the “Spring Festival”, PRIMA has for years raised donations for organisations that help children. the charity event organised by the PRIMA School in solidarity with the children of Japan after the tragic earthquake of 2011 remained well-remembered. this year, the Association “our dreams” from Valjevo has been selected as the recipient of the donation. “We followed the work of various associations and organisations dealing with children with special needs. We were impressed by the achievements of the Valjevo association that, thanks to its persistent efforts, managed to organise the day care for children and gather together around thirty volunteers, mostly high school students from Valjevo. Also, it was important for us that someone outside of Belgrade gets the donation,” Brigitte MacIntosh, the principal of the school, said for Belguest. everything happened on Saturday, 11th May, at

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the Military Academy stadium in Belgrade. In the first part of the programme, the students, teachers and the guests of the PRIMA school together with the children and volunteers from the Valjevo association walked for an extra mile “for a smile”. Around the stadium, there were stands set up, selling t-shirts and balloons with the logo “our dreams” and “PRIMA school”. the walk was opened by hollywood director Roger donaldson, who is making a movie in Belgrade, Assistant Mayor of Valjevo Radojica Ristić and director of the PRIMA School Brigitte MacIntosh. After the walk, there was a concert in the amphitheatre: the band of nikola Čuturilo played, Irish dancers “erin’s Fiddle” and “Krsmanac” danced, and finally, as a special treat, the band “neverne bebe” performed. the atmosphere was jovial and friendly, and the event lasted until the late afternoon hours.

IT WAS MEANT TO BE It is interesting how the energy of goodwill and humanity “flowed in the air”. When the management of the school PRIMA chose the association to help children with special needs from Valjevo as a potential beneficiary, the contact was first made. the secretary of the association, Mrs. Suzana Momčilović, respondend to the first phone call, and it was just at that moment that she was notified that the association had not received the funding for the purchase of the pottery wheel and clay at a competition in which they participated. the funds raised at the event “Walk a mile for a smile” will be more than enough to equip the creative workshops that will be to the benefit of children with special needs. And this was just the first step for future walks with a smile. BeLGueSt

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NAŠI OSTVARENI SNOVI

Uz svoju osnovnu delatnost, beogradska međunarodna škola PRIMA svojim čestim i raznovrsnim aktivnostima na delima uči svoje đake humanosti i čovekoljublju. Nedavno održana manifestacija „Prošetaj milju za osmeh“ organizovana je za valjevsko Udruženje „Naši snovi“, koje pomaže deci sa posebnim potrebama. Poruka je bila jasna i nedvosmislena: Različitost postoji i mi ne smemo da skrećemo pogled kada je neko drugačiji od nas. Uspeh je bio fantastičan.

RIMA već godinama u okviru „Prolećnog festivala“ prikuplja pomoć za organizacije koje pomažu decu. ostala je upamćena velika humanitarna manifestacija koju je PRIMA organizovala u znak solidarnosti sa decom Japana posle tragičnog zemljotresa 2011. godine. ove godine za primaoca donacije izabrano je Udruženje „naši snovi“ iz Valjeva. „Pratili smo rad različitih asocijacija i udruženja koji se bave decom sa posebnim potrebama. Bili smo impresionirani postignućima valjevskog udruženja, koje je istrajnim radom uspelo da organizuje dnevni boravak za decu i okupi oko trideset volontera, mahom valjevskih gimnazijalaca. takođe, bilo nam je važno i da pomoć dobije neko van Beograda“, kaže za Belguest Brriggite Machintosh, direktorka škole. Sve se odigralo u subotu, 11. maja na stadi-

onu Vojne gimnazije u Beogradu. U prvom delu programa đaci, nastavnici i gosti škole PRIMA, zajedno sa decom i volonterima iz valjevskog udruženja, prošetali su jednu milju „za osmeh“. oko stadiona su bili postavljeni štandovi na kojima su se prodavale majice i baloni sa logom „naših snova“ i škole PRIMA. Šetnju su svečano otvorili holivudski režiser Rodžer donaldson, koji u Beogradu snima film, pomoćnik gradonačelnika Valjeva Radojica Ristić i direktorka škole PRIMA Briggite Machintosh. nakon šetnje organizovan je koncert u amfiteatru: svirao je bend nikole Čuturila, plesali su irski plesači „erin’s Fiddle“ i „Krsmanac“, a na kraju, kao posebna poslastica, nastupile su „neverne bebe“. Atmosfera je bila vedra i prijateljska, a događaj je potrajao do kasnih popodnevnih časova.

BILO JE SUĐENO Zanimljivo je kako je ova energija dobre volje i humanosti „putovala etrom“. Kada je rukovodstvo škole PRIMA odabralo Udruženje za pomoć deci sa posebnim potrebama iz Valjeva kao potencijalnog korisnika sredstava, najpre je napravljen kontakt. na prvi telefonski poziv javila se sekretarka udruženja Suzana Momčilović, koju su upravo u tom trenutku obavestili da Udruženje nije dobilo sredstva za nabavku grnčarskog točka i gline na konkursu na kojem je učestvovalo. Prikupljena sredstva na manifestaciji „Prošetaj milju za osmeh“ biće više nego dovoljna da se opremi radionica koju će kreativno koristiti deca sa posebnim potrebama. A napravljen je samo prvi korak za buduće šetnje sa osmehom. B el G uest

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INQUIRING MINDS ARE ALWAYS WELCOME

One of the oldest Belgrade international schools has announced the opening of classes for the youngest ones as of August this year. Pre-school programmes are designed in accordance with international academic standards, and the whole, well-coordinated school team through stimulating game teaches the children to recognise themselves and the world around them, thus creating, at an early age, innovative people of future generations.

mpowering and inspiring students begins with our youngest learners here at the International school of Belgrade (IsB). We follow the primary years programme (pyp), part of the International Baccalaureate Organisation (IBO). the pyp describes five early years’ domains: physical, social, emotional, Intellectual and aesthetic. IsB is accredited by the council of International schools (cIs) and the new england association of schools and colleges (naesc). cIs is the accrediting agency of the european council of International schools (ecIs). IsB is also authorized by the IBO and by the ministry of education of the republic of serbia. young children need extended periods of time and as much indoor and outdoor space as possible in clearly defined areas to explore, investigate, and play with a variety of materials and resources. learning spaces may include: • Pre-reading • Pre-writing • Arts • Construction • Imaginative play

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• Science • Technology children need to learn about themselves, other people, and the world around them. as children interact in and with these spaces, they become active learners through: • making choices and decisions • working collaboratively with others • using materials in flexible or imaginative ways • initiating inquiry and asking questions • sustaining interests and extending their knowledge • developing new understandings Beginning in august 2013, IsB welcomes students beginning at age three. the early years program is designed for children between the ages of three and five. IsB refers to these groups of children in the following way; preK 3, preK 4, and Kindergarten. Our preK 3 and preK 4 class is combined and our Kindergarten is designed for students that are age five as of september 1 of each school year. for many children, these years also mark the first transition from home to a group experience. IsB is committed to assuring this adjustment is as successful as possible by

encouraging the development of secure and trusting relationships with new adults and students. at the International school of Belgrade, the administrators, teachers, parents, and students work as a cooperative team to promote maximum individual achievement of each student. at the core of our philosophy is play; an essential part of a child’s first years in a school environment where inquiry is the foundation for future social and academic success. Our program is designed to encourage a balance of child-initiated and teacher-facilitated activities, taking into account the individuality and diversity of each learner. Our program creates learning opportunities and individual inquiries which sparks children’s natural curiosities, interests, and enthusiasm. this early years program is designed in accordance with international academic standards. children learn about themselves and the world around them through stimulating play, thus creating, at an early age, innovative people of future generations.We are excited to share and welcome you to our early years program where inquiring minds... are always welcome. BeLGueSt

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RADOZNALE GLAVICE SU UVEK DOBRODOŠLE

Јedna od najstarijih beogradskih međunarodnih škola ISB od avgusta ove godine najavljuje otvaranje odeljenja za najmlađe. Predškolski i pripremni programi oblikovani su u skladu sa međunarodnim školskim standardima, a čitav uigrani tim škole, podstičući igru, uči mališane da spoznaju sebe i svet oko sebe, stvarajući tako od malih nogu inovativne ljude budućih pokolenja.

Internacionalnoj školi Beograd (ISB) podsticanje dece da stiču znanja počinje od najmlađeg uzrasta. program rada s najmlađima utemeljen je na Predškolskom planu i programu (primary years programme – pyp) međunarodne Baccalaureate organizacije (IBO). Predškolski progam definiše pet oblasti postignuća za mališane: fizički, socijalni, emocionalni, intelektualni i estetski. Škola poseduje akreditaciju Saveta Međunarodnih škola (CIS) i Udruženja škola i koledža Nove Engleske. Savet Međunarodnih škola ovlašćena je agencija Evropskog saveta (ECIS). Takođe, ISB poseduje IBO i akreditaciju Ministarstva prosvete Republike Srbije. Deci predškolskog uzrasta potrebno je vreme kako bi, i u učionicama i van njih, u jasno omeđenim oblastima i sa što više različitih materijala, mogla da istražuju svet i razigravaju svoje sposobnosti. Oblasti učenja obuhvataju: • pripremu za čitanje • pripremu za pisanje • umetnosti • konstruisanje • igre mašte

• nauku • tehnologiju deci je potrebno da spoznaju sebe, druge ljude i svet koji ih okružuje. Budući da se te saznajne oblasti nalaze u dinamičnoj interakciji, deca aktivno uče tako što: • prave izbore i donose odluke • sarađuju s drugima • koriste materijale na različite i maštovite načine • pokreću teme i postavljaju pitanja • fokusiraju se na temu i proširuju znanja • dolaze do novih saznanja Od avgusta 2013. godine ISB počinje da prima đake uzrasta od tri godine. program za najmlađe osmišljen je za decu između tri i pet godina starosti. najmlađi razredi su podeljeni na Obdanište 3, Obdanište 4 i Predškolsku grupu. Obdanište 3 i Obdanište 4 obuhvataju oba uzrasta (deca od 3 i 4 godine), dok je Predškolska grupa za decu koja pre 1. septembra tekuće školske godine navršavaju pet godina. Za većinu dece to su godine u kojima prvi put izlaze iz roditeljskog okrilja i stiču prva vršnjačka iskustva. Škola je u potpunosti posvećena tome da deci omogući što uspešnije prilagođavanje, ohrabrujući

ih da i sa odraslima i sa drugom decom razvijaju odnose zasnovane na poverenju. Čitav tim, počevši od uprave, preko nastavnika, roditelja, do đaka, međusobno sarađuje kako bi svako dete ostvarilo maksimum individualnog postignuća. U središtu ove filizofije nalazi se igra, koja je suština prvih školskih dana, te otvorenost deteta prema novim saznanjima, koja su temelj njegovih budućih društvenih i akademskih uspeha. Program je zasnovan na uravnoteženom odnosu: podstičući decu na različite načine, učitelji ih usmeravaju, vodeći računa o posebnosti svakog od njih. Program pruža mogućnosti za učenje i individualna istraživanja, koja podstiču prirodnu radoznalost, zainteresovanost i entuzijazam dece. Program za najmlađe oblikovan je u skladu s međunarodnim standardima. deca stiču znanja o sebi i svetu kroz podsticajnu igru, a tako se, već u najmlađem uzrastu, stvaraju inovativni ljudi budućih pokolenja. Uzbuđeni smo što to možemo s vama da podelimo i da vam poželimo dobrodošlicu u predškolske razrede, gde su sve radoznale glavice dobrodošle. BeLGueSt

BelGuest Summer | Leto 2013

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TRADITION AND TRUST

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Belgrade’s oldest international nursery has existed for 65 years already! Our youngest citizens - most of whom are the children of diplomats and foreigners – spend time, play and learn in the beautiful setting of a white Senjak neighbourhood villa surrounded by a park and playgrounds. We have talked with Mrs. Mirjana Vidojević, the director of this respectable institution, about the methods of working with the kids, learning through play and child care.

hat are the main reasons for fathers and mothers to opt for your nursery school? - IsBn was established back in 1948 and our long-lasting existence and the fact that we successfully managed the periods that were not at all easy is one of the reasons. We worked even when there were no foreigners in Belgrade and when the embassies were closed down. the second reason is that we are very specialised: InsB is at the same time a nursery and preschool. We prepare children to continue their education in international schools. Apart from foreigners, Serbian children are also enrolled in the nursery school? - Mostly foreigners get their children enrolled in our nursery school, but there are more and more of serbian parents who feel that their children should continue their schooling in international schools.

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children should begin learning english at a very early stage, they need to start feeling comfortable about it, and they should get to feel confident by means of constant repetition of words and phrases. We are very successful at it and that’s the best part of our job. What are the standards that you apply and how does the work with the kids look “in practice”? - We work with children aged 18 months to five years. International nursery school Belgrade is offering International Preschool Curriculum and Jolly Phonics methodology as our basic framework for our curriculum. the International Preschool curriculum consists of 56 thematic units. all units encompass six trans-disciplinary content learning areas: (1) language arts; (2) socio-emotional skills; (3) numeracy; (4) creative and Visual arts; (5) sciences; (6) Fine and gross Motor skills. the curriculum is based on proven and peer reviewed

concepts that include play, inquiry and objective based learning styles. there are five underlying themes and objectives of the IPc which are designed to cultivate critical thinking, raise self awareness, promote an understanding of other cultures and encourage internationalism and ultilingualism. our students are eligible for completion certificates once they meet the criteria. the methodology that we use to teach literacy is called Jolly Phonics. Jolly Phonics is a fun and child centered approach to teaching literacy through synthetic phonics. the multi-sensory method is very motivating for children and teachers, who can see their students achieve. the letter sounds are split into seven groups. the sounds are taught in a specific order (not alphabetically). this enables children to begin building words as early as possible. BelGuest photographs: Damir BaNDa

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TRADICIJA I POVERENJE

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Najstarije beogradsko međunarodno obdanište postoji već 65 godina! U predivnom ambijentu bele senjačke vile, okružene parkom i igralištima, borave, igraju se i uče naši najmlađi sugrađani – većinom deca diplomata i stranaca. O metodima rada s mališanima, učenju putem igre i negovanju dece razgovarali smo s Mirjanom Vidojević, direktorkom te ugledne institucije.

ta rukovodi očeve i majke da se opredele za vašu školu? - Škola IsBn osnovana je 1948. godine i jedan od razloga upravo je taj što postojimo toliko dugo i što smo uspešno prošli vremena koja nisu bili nimalo laka. radili smo čak i kada u Beogradu nije bilo stranaca i kada su ambasade bile zatvorene. drugi razlog je taj što smo usko specijalizovani: IsBn je istovremeno i obdanište i predškolska ustanova. Mi pripremamo decu za nastavak školovanja u internacionalnim školama. Pored stranaca, u obdanište su upisana i srpska deca? - decu upisuju uglavnom stranci, ali je sve više naših roditelja koji smatraju da njihova deca treba da nastave školovanje u međunarodnim školama. deca što ranije treba da počnu da uče engleski

jezik, da se oslobode, da stalnim ponavljanjem reči i fraza steknu sigurnost. Mi smo u tome veoma uspešni i to je najlepši deo našeg posla. Koje standarde primenjujete i kako rad s mališanima izgleda uživo? - radimo s decom uzrasta od 18 meseci do pet godina. InsB primenjuje Međunarodni predškolski plan i program i Džoli Foniks (Jolly Phonics) metodologiju kao osnovni okvir za ostvarivanja tog plana i programa. on se sastoji od 56 tematskih celina koje su podeljene u šest multidisciplinarnih sadržaja učenja: (1) jezičko umetničke sposobnosti; (2) socio-emocione veštine; (3) matematičke sposobnosti; (4) kreativnost i umetničke sposobnosti; (5) nauke; (6) fine i grube motoričke sposobnosti. ovaj plan i program je utemeljen i empirijski proveren na vršnjačkim grupama, zasniva se na igri, istraživanju i iskustvenom učenju.

u osnove IPc programa ugrađeno je pet osnovnih tema koje su osmišljene tako da neguju kritičko razmišljanje, podižu svest, promovišu razumevanje drugih kultura i podstiču internacionalizam i višejezičnost. Po završetku programa naši učenici dobijaju odgovarajuće diplome. Metodologija savladavanja veština početnog čitanja i pisanja koju primenjuemo zove se džoli Foniks. ona je zabavana i prilagođena je detetu koje uči putem sintetičke fonetike. ovaj multi senzorni metod je podsticajan kako za decu, tako i za učitelje koji mogu da prate dečja postignuća. glasovno učenje slova podeljeno je u sedam grupa i uči se posebnim redosledom (koji nije alfabetski). ovo omogućava deci da glasovno sintetišu reči još u najmlađem uzrastu. BelGuest fotografije: Damir BaNDa

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KKUULLTTUURRAA CCUULLTTUURREE POZORIŠTA – THEATERS ATELJE 212, Svetogorska 21, tel. 324-7342 www.atelje212.co.rs BEOGRADSKO DRAMSKO POZORIŠTE, Mileševska 64a, tel. 2835-111, 2837-000 www.bdp.rs BETON HALA TEATAR, Kraljice Natalije 3, tel.2684-588 BITEF TEATAR, Skver Mire Trailović 1, tel. 3220-608 www.bitef.rs DADOV, Desanke Maksimović 6/I, tel. 3243-643 www.dadov.rs DAH TEATAR, Marulićeva 8, tel. 2441-680 www.dahteatarcentar.com ISTER TEATAR, Karlovačka 26, Zemun, tel. 74498 07 JUGOSLOVENSKO DRAMSKO POZORIŠTE, Kralja Milana 50, tel. 3061-900, 3061-957 www.jdp.co.rs

KPGT, Radnička 3, tel. 3055-082, 3055-076 www.kpgtyu.org OPERA I TEATAR MADLENIANUM, Zemun, Glavna 32, tel. 316-2533 www.madlenianum.rs NARODNO POZORIŠTE - NATIONAL THEATER (Opera, Balet, Drama / Opera, Ballet, Theatre Plays) Francuska 3, tel. 3281-333 www.narodnopozoriste.co.rs POZORIŠTE NA TERAZIJAMA, Trg Nikole Pašića 3, tel.330-2650 www.pozoristeterazije.com SLAVIJA TEATAR, Svetog Save 16, tel. 2436-995 TEATAR BOJAN STUPICA, Kralja Milana 50, tel. 2644-447, www.jdp.co.rs TEATAR KULT, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 77a, tel. 2421-314 ZVEZDARA TEATAR, Milana Rakića 38, tel. 2419-664 www.zvezdara VEčERNJA SCENA RADOVIć, Aberdareva 1, tel. 3242-472 www.malopozoriste.co.rs

DEčJA POZORIŠTA – CHILDRENS’ THEATERS BOŠKO BUHA, Trg Republike 3, tel. 2632-855 www.buha-theater.com MALO POZORIŠTE DUŠKO RADOVIć, Aberdareva 1, tel. 3242-472 www.malopozoriste.co.rs POZORIŠTANCE PUŽ, Radoslava Grujića 21, tel. 2438-036 POZORIŠTE LUTAKA PINOKIO, Karađorđeva 9, Zemun tel. 2691-715 www.ptpinokio.com TEATAR RODA, Požeška 83a, tel. 2545-260 POZORISTE “PAN TEATAR”, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 298, www.panteatar.rs

KULTURNI CENTRI - CULTURAL CENTERS AMERIčKI KUTAK/AMERICAN CORNER, Makedonska 22, tel. 322-7694, www.americancorners-sam.net

AUSTRIJSKI KULTURNI FORUM/ ÖSTERREICHISCHEN KULTURFORUMS, Kneza Sime Markovića 2, tel. 3031-956, www.aussenministerium.at/belgradkf

BRITANSKI SAVET/ BRITISH COUNCIL, Terazije 8, tel. 3023-800, www.britishcouncil.org/serbia

CENTAR ZA KULTURNU DEKONTAMINACIJU, Birčaninova 21, tel. 3610-270, www.czkd.rs DEčIJI KULTURNI CENTAR, Takovska 8, tel. 342-2011, fax. 342-2314, www.dkcb.rs/ DOM KULTURE STUDENTSKI GRAD, Bulevar AVNOJ-a 179, tel. 2691-442, www.dksg.rs DOM OMLADINE BEOGRADA, Makedonska 22, tel. 3225-453, www.domomladine.org DOM VOJSKE SRBIJE, Braće Jugovića 19 tel. 324-12-58, www.odbrana.mod.gov.rs FRANCUSKI INSTITUT U SRBIJI/ INSTITUT FRANçAIS DE SERBIE , Zmaj Jovina 11, tel. 3023-654, www.institutfrancais.rs INSTITUT GETE /GOETHE I NSTITUT , Knez Mihailova 50, tel. 303-18-10, www.goethe.de/belgrad

GRAD - EVROPSKI CENTAR ZA KULTURU I DEBATU, Braće Krsmanović 4, tel. 3282- 370, www.gradbeograd.eu

GUARNERIUS – CENTAR LEPIH UMETNOSTI, Džordža Vašingtona 12, tel. 3346-807, www.guarnerius.rs

HELENSKI FOND ZA KULTURU/HELLENIC FOUNDATION FOR CULTURE, Kneza Miloša 14, tel.3625-206, www.hfc-belgrade.com

Summer | Leto 2013

INSTITUT SERVANTES/ INSTITUTO CERVANTES DE BELGRADO, Čika Ljubina 19, tel. 3034-182, www.belgrado.cervantes.es

INSTITUT KONFUčIJE, Studentski trg 3, tel. 3284-595, www.konfucije.fil.bg.ac.rs ITALIJANSKI INSTITUT ZA KULTURU/ ISTITUTO ITALIANO DI CULTURA DI BELGRADO, Kneza Miloša 56, tel. 3629-435, www.iicbelgrado.esteri.it KANADSKI KULTURNI CENTAR/ CANADIAN CULTURAL CENTER, Kneza Miloša 75, tel. 306-3000 KULTURNI CENTAR BEOGRADA, Knez Mihailova 6/1, tel. 2621-469/ www.kcb.org.rs KULTURNI CENTAR IRANA, Neznanog junaka 32, tel. 3672 564 , www.iran.rs RUSKI DOM/ Русский дом, Kraljice Natalije 33, tel. 2642-178, www.ruskidom.rs REX, Jevrejska 16, tel. 3284-534, www.rex.b92.net STUDENTSKI KULTURNI CENTAR, Kralja Milana 48, tel. 360-2014, www.skc.org.rs ZADUŽBINA ILIJE M. KOLARACA, Studentski trg 5, tel. 2630-550, www.kolarac.rs

KONCERTNE DVORANE - CONCERT HALLS ATRIJUM NARODNOG MUZEJA, Trg republike 1a, tel. 330-6000, BEOGRADSKA FILHARMONIJA, Studentski trg 11, tel. 328-2977, www.bgf.co.rs DOM VOJSKE SRBIJE, Braće Jugovića 19, tel. 324-0242, www.odbrana.mod.gov.rs DVORANA DOMA SINDIKATA, Trg Nikole Pašića 5, tel. 323-4849, www.domsindikata.com KOMBANK ARENA, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 58, tel. 0900 110011, www.kombankarena.rs SAVA CENTAR, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 220-6000 , www.savacentar.net ZADUŽBINA ILIJE M. KOLARCA, Studentski trg 5, tel. 262-6591, www.kolarac.co.rs

MUZEJI – MUSEUMS KULTURNO-ISTORIJSKI MUZEJI - CULTURAL & HISTORICAL MUSEUMS ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEJ / ETNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM, Studentski trg 13, tel. 3281-888, www. etnografskimuzej.rs

KONAK KNJEGINJE LJUBICE / THE RESIDENCE OF PRINCESS LJUBICA, Kneza Sime Markovića 8, tel.2638-264, www.mgb.org.rs

KONAK KNEZA MILOŠA / THE RESIDENCE OF PRINCE MILOS, Rakovički put 2, tel.2660-422, www.imus.org.rs

KUćA ĐURE JAKŠIćA / DJURA JAKSIC HOUSE, Skadarska 34, tel. 3230-302 MANAKOVA KUćA / MANAK’S HOUSE, Gavrila Principa 5, tel. 303- 6114 KULA NEBOJŠA / NEBOJSA TOwER, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 11, tel. 26 20 685 , www.kulanebojsa.rs

MUZEJ SRPSKE PRAVOSLAVNE CRKVE / SERBIAN ORTODOX CHURCH MUSEUM, Kralja Petra 5, tel. 328- 2527 NARODNI MUZEJ / NATIONAL MUSEUM, Trg Republike 1a, tel 3306-048, www.narodnimuzej.rs

PEDAGOŠKI MUZEJ / MUSEUM OF PEDAGOGY, Uzun Mirkova 14, tel.2627-538, www.pedagoskimuzej.org.rs

VINčA ARHEOLOŠKO NALAZIŠTE / ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE VINčA, Belo brdo 17, Vinča, tel. 060/500-51-87, www.mgb.org.rs VUKOV I DOSITEJEV MUZEJ / VUK AND DOSITEJ MUSEUM, Gospodar Jevremova 21, tel. 2625-161

ISTORIJSKI MUZEJI - HISTORICAL MUSEUMS ISTORIJSKI MUZEJ SRBIJE / SERBIAN HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Đure Jakšića 9, tel. 328-7241, www.imus.org.rs

JEVREJSKI ISTORIJSKI MUZEJ / JEwISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Kralja Petra 71, tel. 2622-634, www.jimbeograd.org

MUZEJ ISTORIJE JUGOSLAVIJE /YUGOSLAV HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Botićeva 6, tel. 3671-485, www.mij.rs

MUZEJ BANJIčKOG LOGORA / THE MUSEUM OF THE BANJICA CONCENTRATION CAMP, Pavla Jurišića Šturma 33, tel. 3674-877, www.mgb.org.rs VOJNI MUZEJ / MILITARY MUSEUM, Kalemegdan bb, tel. 3343-441, www.muzej.mod.gov.rs IZLOŽBENA POSTAVKA NARODNE BANKE SRBIJE / NATIONAL BANK OF SERBIA NUMISMATIC EXIBITION, Kralja Petra 12, tel.3027-100, www.nbs.rs

MUZEJ AUTOMOBILA /THE AUTOMOBILE MUSEUM, Majke Jevrosime 30, tel. 3034-625, www.automuseumbgd.com

MUZEJ JUGOSLOVENSKOG VAZDUHOPLOVSTVA /MUSEUM OF YUGOSLAV AERONAUTICS, Aerodrom Nikola Tesla,tel. 2670-992, www.muzejvazduhoplovstva.org. MUZEJ NAUKE I TEHNIKE / MUSEUM OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY, Skender Begova 51, tel. 303- 7850, www.muzejnt.rs

MEMORIJALNI MUZEJI - MEMORIAL MUSEUMS MEMORIJALNI MUZEJ JOVANA CVIJIćA / THE MEMORIAL MUSEUM OF JOVAN CVIJIć, Jelene Ćetković 5, tel. 3223-126, www.mgb.org.rs MUZEJ NIKOLE TESLE / NIKOLA TESLA MUSEUM, Krunska 51, tel. 2433-886, www.tesla-museum.org

SPOMEN MUZEJ IVE ANDRIćA / THE MEMORIAL MUSEUM OF IVO ANDRIć, Andrićev venac 8, tel. 323-8397, www.mgb.org.rs MUZEJ PAJE JOVANOVIćA / THE MUSEUM OF PAJA JOVANOVIć, Kralja Milana 21/IV, tel. 3340-176, www.mgb.org.rs ZBIRKA IKONA SEKULIć / THE COLLECTION OF ICONS SEKULIć, Uzun Mirkova 5, tel 3282-504, www.mgb.org.rs ZAVIčAJNI MUZEJI - CITY MUSEUMS MUZEJ GRADA BEOGRADA / THE BELGRADE CITY MUSEUM, Zmaj Jovina 1, tel. 2630-825, www.mgb.org.rs

PTT MUZEJ / POST MUSEUM, Majke Jevrosime 13, tel. 3064-170, www.pttmuzej.rs ŽELEZNIčKI MUZEJ / RAILwAY MUSEUM, Nemanjina 6, tel. 361-0334, www.zeleznicesrbije.com

PRIRODNJAčKI MUZEJI - NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUMS PRIRODNJAčKI MUZEJ - NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM, Njegoševa 51, tel. 344-2147, www.nhmbeo.rs

GALERIJA PRIRODNJAčKOG MUZEJA / GALLERY OF THE NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM, Mali Kalemegdan 5, tel. 3284-317, www.nhmbeo.rs MUZEJ SRPSKE MEDICINE / MUSEUM OF SERBIAN MEDICINE, Džordža Vašingtona 19, tel. 3245-149, www.sld.org.rs/sr/muzej

UMETNIčKI MUZEJI - ART MUSEUMS MUZEJ AFRIčKE UMETNOSTI / MUSEUM OF AFRICAN ART, Andre Nikolića 14, tel. 2651-654, museumofafricanart.org

MUZEJ POZORIŠNE UMETNOSTI /THEATER MUSEUM, Gospodar Jevremova 19, tel. 2628-920, www.mpus.org.rs

TEHNIčKI MUZEJI - TEHNICAL MUSEUMS

BelGuest Summer | Leto 2013

MUZEJ SAVREMENE UMETNOSTI - LEGAT čOLAKOVIč / MUSEUM OF TEMPORARY ART- COLAKOVIC LEGACY, Drajzerov prolaz 2, tel. 3676-093, www.msub.org.rs

MUZEJ PRIMENJENE UMETNOSTI / MUSEUM OF APPLIED ART, Vuka Karadžića 18, tel. 2626-494, www.mpu.org.rs

JUGOSLOVENSKA KINOTEKA - YUGOSLAV FILM ARCHIVE, Kosovska 11, tel. 3248-250 www.kinoteka.org.rs

MUZEJ ZEPTER – ZEPTER MUSEUM, Knez Mihailova 42, tel. 011/328-3339, www.zeptermuseum.rs

IZLOŽBENE GALERIJE - EXHIBITION GALLERIES GALERIJA SRPSKE AKADEMIJE NAUKA I UMETNOSTI - GALLERY OF SERBIAN ACADEMY OF ARTS & SCIENCES,Knez Mihailova 35, www.sanu.ac.rs GALERIJA BEOGRAD, Kosančićev venac 19 , www.galerijabeograd.org GALERIJA DOMA OMLADINE, Makedonska 22, www.domomladine.org GALERIJA FAKULTETA LIKOVNIH UMETNOSTI, Pariska 16, www.flu.bg.ac.rs GALERIJA FRESAKA / FRESCO GALLERY, Cara Uroša 20, www.narodnimuzej.rs GALERIJA GRAFIčKOG KOLEKTIVA, Obilićev venac 27, www. grafickikolektiv.org GALERIJA HAOS, Dositejeva 3, www.galleryhaos.com GALERIJA KULTURNOG CENTRA BEOGRADA, Knez Mihailova 6, www.kcb.org.rs/ GALERIJA-LEGAT PETRA DOBROVIćA, Kralja Petra 36/IV, www.msub.org.rs GALERIJA NAUKE I TEHNIKE SANU / SANU GALLERY OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY, Đure Jakšića 2, www.sanu.ac.rs GALERIJA NEw MOMENT, Hilandarska 14, www.newmoment.com/beograd

Summer | Leto 2013

GALERIJA PROGRES, Knez Mihailova 22, www.progres.rs GALERIJA STARA KAPETANIJA, Zemun, Kej oslobođenja 8 GALERIJA SKC, Kralja Milana 48, www.skc.org.rs GALERIJA SULUJ, Terazije 26/II, www.galerijasuluj.org.rs GALERIJA 73, Požeška 83 a, www.galerija73.com GALERIJA ULUS, Knez Mihailova 37, www.ulus.org.rs GALERIJA DOMA VOJSKE SRBIJE, Braće Jugovića 19, www.odbrana.mod.gov.rs GALERIJA ZADUŽBINE ILIJE M. KOLARCA, Studentski Trg 5, www.kolarac.co.rs JUGOSLOVENSKA GALERIJA UMETNIčKIH DELA, Andrićev venac 4, Dositejeva 1 OZON, Andrićev venac 12, www.o3one.rs SALON MUZEJA SAVREMENE UMETNOSTI, Pariska 14, www.msub.org.rs UMETNIčKI PAVILJON CVIJETA ZUZORIć, Mali Kalemegdan, www.ulus.org.rs VELIKA GALERIJA DK STUDENTSKI GRAD, Bulevar AVNOJ-a 179, www.dksg.rs

BIBLIOTEKE - LIBRARIES BIBLIOTEKA GRADA BEOGRADA / BELGRADE CITY LIBRARY, Knez Mihailova 56, tel. 202-4024, www.bgb.org.rs

NARODNA BIBLIOTEKA SRBIJE / SERBIAN NATIONAL LIBRARY, Skerlićeva 1, tel. 2451-242 www.nb.rs

UNIVERZITETSKA BIBLIOTEKA „SVETOZAR MARKOVIć“- UNIVERSITY LIBRARY „SVETOZAR MARKOVIć“, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 71, tel. 3370-509, www.unilib.bg.ac.rs

BEOGRADSKI RESTORANI BELGRADE RESTAURANTS *skraćenica / abbriviaton: rv/wh - radno vreme / working hours ** skraćenica / abbriviation: nat – uglavnom nacionalna kuhinja/ mainly national cuisine

RESTORANI U SKADARLIJI – RESTAURANTS IN SKADARLIJA (traditional live music) DVA BELA GOLUBA**, Bulevar despota Stefana 3, tel. 323-9079 DVA JELENA ****, Skadarska 32, tel. 323-4885 IMA DANA****, Skadarska 38, tel. 323-4422 ŠEŠIR MOJ, Skadarska 21, tel. 322-8750 TRI ŠEŠIRA****, Skadarska 29, tel. 324-7501 ZLATNI BOKAL***, Skadarska 26, tel. 323-4834

INTERNACIONALNA I NACIONALNA KUHINJAINTERNATIONAL & NATIONAL CUISINE BUSSINES CLUB „JELENA”, Generala Šturma 1, tel. 3066509 CANTINA DE FRIDA, Karađorđeva 2-4, tel. 2181107 DAKA, Beograd, Hercegovačka 10, tel. 219-7423 DEVETKA, Kneza Višeslava 25, tel. 3559-783 DIVA, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. 2202 822 ĐORĐE, Hadži Milentijeva 47 (ulaz iz Moravske 10) tel. 3441-422 EL TORO, Masarikova 5, tel. 3612-429 FRANŠ, Bulevar oslobođenja 18a, tel. 2641-944

GINGER, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. 2202- 822 IGUANA, Karađorđeva 2-4, tel. 328-3749 KALEMEGDANSKA TERASA, Kalemegdan bb, tel. 328-3011 KEJ, Kej oslobođenja 11e, Zemun, tel. 307-6866 KLUB KNJIŽEVNIKA, Francuska 7, tel. 2627-931 KOD KAPETANA, Kej oslobođenja 43, Zemun, tel. 2103-950 KOLARAC, Knez Mihailova 46, tel. 2638-972 KOVAč, Bulevar oslobodjenja 221, tel. 2462-343 KUMBARA, General Ždanova 36, tel. 3906-877 LORENZO&KAKALAMBA, Cvijićeva 110, tel. 3285-351 MADERA, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 43, tel. 3231-332 METROPOLITAN GRILL, Hyatt Regency, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. 301-1140 NA ćOŠKU, Beogradska 37, tel. 3236-470 ORAč, Makenzijeva 81, tel. 2440-507 PIRE SLOw FOOD, Cara Lazara 11, tel. 2634-994 PLATANI, Kej oslobođenja 45, tel. 2101-401 PROMAYA, Karađorđeva 8a, tel. 2621-494 PUBLIC DINE&wINE, Kosančićev venac 29, tel.328-3680 RESTORAN 27, Istarska 27, tel. 2651-831 RUBIN, Kneza Višeslava 29, tel. 3510-987 SOKAčE, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića bb, tel. 2625- 452

BelGuest Summer | Leto 2013

SRPSKA KAFANA, Svetogorska 25, tel. 3247-197 STARA CARINARNICA, Kej oslobođenja 31, tel.2616-930 STARA HERCEGOVINA, Carigradska 36, tel. 324-5856 TABOR, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 348, tel. 2412-464 TALAS, Kej oslobođenja 37, Zemun, tel. 3730-925 TRIBECA, Kralja Petra 20, tel. 328-5566 VUK, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. 2629-761 ZAPLET, Kajmakčalanska 2, tel.240-4142 ZLATAR, Preradovićeva 9a, tel. 2754-651 (live music) ZLATNIK, Kej oslobođenja35, Zemun, tel. 210- 5565 ZNAK PITANJA „?”, Kralja Petra 16, tel. 2635-421

RIBLJI RESTORANI - FISH RESTAURANTS KLUB TAVERNA, Zmaj Jovina 9, tel. 065/633- 5353 LA BARCA, Vase Pelagica 48, tel. 369-30-30 PORTO MALTESE, Ušće bb, tel. 2145-727 REKA, Kej oslobođenja 73b, tel. 2611-625 (live music) ŠARAN**, Kej oslobođenja 53, tel. 2618-235 (live music)

SPECIJALIZOVANI RESTORANI – SPECIALTIES RESTAURANTS AMPHORA, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel.2699-789 mediterranean cuisine BALSAC, Strahinjića bana 13, tel.3285-906 french cuisine BELLA ITALIJA “KOD GARIćA”, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 95, tel. 311-3778 italian cuisine BELLA NAPOLI, Zmaj Jovina 35, Zemun, tel.2198-162 italian cuisine BURITO BAR, Kraljice Marije 71, tel. 337-6546 mexican cuisine BYBLOS, Nebojšina 6, tel. tel. 244 19 38, lebanon cuisine CASA, Makenzijeva 24, tel. 3860-866 IKKI BAR, Gospodar Jovanova 46, tel. 2184-183 japanese cuisine INDIAN PALACE, Ljubička 1b, tel. 3446-235 indian cuisine IPANEMA, Strahinjića bana 68, tel. 3283-069 italian cuisine FRESKA, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. 3284-879 italian cuisine GASTON, Uzun Mirkova 5, tel: 32-85-811, italiana cusine GUŠTI MORA, Radnička 27, tel. 355-1268 sea food LAVA BAR, Kneza Miloša 77, tel. 3610-525 mediterranean cuisine MAMMA MIA, Resavska 70, tel. 2687-683 italian cuisine PANE E VINO, Dobračina 6, tel.3036-011 italian cuisine PEKING, Vuka Karadžića 2, tel. 2181-931chinese cuisine PIETRO DELL`ORO, Trnska 2, tel.3447-700 italian cuisine TRAG, Đorđa Jovanovića 2, tel. 3227-495 italian cuisine TRAMONTANA, Kraljice Katarine 26, tel. 3542-237 sea food VILLA CLUB 69, Krunska 69, tel. 3442-656 french&italian cuisine ZAPATA, Vojvode Bogdana 13, tel. 3809-207 mexican cuisine

RESTORANI NA VODI - BOAT RESTAURANTS ACAPULCO, Zemunski kej bb, tel.319-6369 , tel.063/7784-760 AMSTERDAM, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.319-4971 BAHUS, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel.301-5082 čARDA STARA KOLIBA, Ušće bb, tel.3117-666, 3117-444 DINERS CLUB PRINCIPAL, Ušće bb, tel. 2140-467 KOD GOCE I RENATA, Pančevački put bb, tel.2710-401 KOLIBA, Ušće bb, tel. 311-7444 OTARD, Zemunski kej bb, tel.. 3195-905 KOGO, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel.2695-308 PRESTIGE, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel.2695-308 VODENICA, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 5b, tel. 2628-250 ŽABAR KLUB, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel. 3191-226

100

Summer | Leto 2013

HOTELI – HOTELS HYATT REGENCY BELGRADE, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. 301-1234 METROPOL PALACE BELGRADE, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 69 , tel. 3333-100 PRESIDENT, SC Kovilovo, Zrenjaninski put 170, tel. 2075-200 SQUARE NINE HOTEL BELGRADE, Studenstki trg 9, tel. 3333 500 ZLATNIK, Dobanovačka 95, tel. 3167-511 fax 3167-235

BAH – BEOGRAD ART HOTEL,Knez Mihailova 27 tel. 3312-000 BEST wESTERN Hotel M, Bulevar Oslobođenja 56a, tel. 3095-505 BEST wESTERN Hotel Šumadija, Šumadijski trg 8, tel. 3554-255 CRYSTAL, Internacionalnih brigada 9 tel. 715-1000 EVROPA, Sremska 1, tel. 3626-017 IN HOTEL, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 56, tel. 310-5300 FALKENSTEINER HOTEL BELGRADE, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina, tel. 453 2325 LIFE DESIGN, Balkanska 18, tel. 3626-090 MAJESTIC, Obilićev venac 28, tel. 3285-777 fax 3284-995 MOSKVA, Balkanska 1, tel. 2686-255 MR.PRESIDENT DESIGN HOTEL, Karađorđeva 75, tel.361-2050 NEVSKI , Venizelusova 24a, tel. 322-9722 PALACE, Topličin venac 23, tel. 2185-585, 2637-222 PRAG - POSLOVNI HOTEL, Kraljice Natalije 27, tel. 321-4444 PRESTIGE, Bulevar vojvode Mišića 24, tel. 3057-465 QUEEN ASTORIA, Milovana Milovanovića 1a, tel. 2645-422 SRBIJA GARNI HOTEL, Brankova 13-15, tel: 2633-323 SLAVIJA LUX, Svetog Save 2, tel. 2450-842 TOwNHOUSE 27, Maršala Birjuzova 56, tel. 2022-900 ZEDER, Vojni put II 164e, Zemun, tel. 3141-400, 3149-808 ZIRA, Ruzveltova 35, tel. 3314-800

BALKAN GARNI, Prizrenska 2, tel.3636-000 BELGRADE CITY HOTEL, Savski trg 7, Beograd, tel. 761 70 23 ELEGANCE, Zrenjaninski put 98a, tel.2075-000 EXCELSIOR, Kneza Miloša 5, tel. 3231-381 KASINA, Terazije 25, tel. 3235-574 fax 3238-257 LE PETIT PIAF, Skadarska 34, tel. 3035-858 NACIONAL, Autoput 5, tel. 2601-156 ORAŠAC, Luke Vojvodića 25N, tel. 3055-822 PARK, Njegoševa 4, tel. 3640-385 REX, Sarajevska 37, tel. 361-1862 ROYAL, Kralja Petra 56, tel. 2626-426 SKALA, Zemun, Bežanijska 3, tel. 196-605, 3075-032 SLODES, Borska 92, tel. 3055-518 SRBIJA, Ustanička 127c, tel. 289-0404 TULIP INN , Palmira Toljatija 9 , tel. 2259-813 UNION, Kosovska 11, tel.3248-022 BEOGRAD, Balkanska 52, tel. 2645-361 BRISTOL, Karađorđeva 50, Belgrade, tel. 2631-895 LAV, Cara Dušana 240, Zemun, tel. 3163-289 N HOTEL, Bilećka 57, tel. 3972-183 OASIS, Novosadski autoput 75, Zemun, tel. 3166 302 SLAVIJA, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. 2450-842 TAŠ, Beogradska 71, tel. 3243-507 TRIM, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel 3540-670

HOTELI U OKOLINI BEOGRADA HOTELS IN BELGRADE`S VICINITY BABE ***, Sopot, M.Milinkovića 3, tel.8260-078 OBRENOVAC**, Obrenovac, Miloša Obrenovića 189, tel. 872-1039 RADMILOVAC **, Smederevski put bb, tel. ) 341 61 40, SUčEVIć M ***, Dugo polje 1a, Avalski put, tel. 3907-777 fax. 3907-771

PUTOVANJA - TRAVEL Aerodrom “Nikola Tesla” – Airport Nikola Tesla, tel. 209-4444 www.beg.aero Autobuska stanica Lasta- Bus Station Lasta, Železnička 2, tel. 2625-740 Beogradska autobuska stanica - Belgrade Bus Station, Železnička 4, tel. 2636-299, 2627-146 www.bas.co.rs

JAT autobuski terminal - JAT Bus Terminal, Hotel Slavija Lux, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. 2450-584 www.jat.com

Međunarodni železnički saobraćaj - International railway transport, tel. 360-2899 Međunarodni autobuski saobraćaj- International bus transport, tel. 2622-526, 2627-146

Saobraćajno preduzeće Lasta – Transport Company Lasta, Niški put 4, tel. 2882-740 www.lasta.co.rs

Železnička stanica Beograd - Railway Station Belgrade, Savski trg 2, tel. 2645-822 www.zeleznicesrbije.com

RENT-A-CAR AVACO RENT A CAR, Avaco – Trnska 7, 11000 Beograd, Srbija, tel. 24 33 797, 34 48 981 AVACO – AERODROM NIKOLA TESLA, Beograd, tel. 22 86 434, mob.381 65 535 33 25, BUDGET, Antifašističke borbe 38, 11000 Beograd, tel. 311 3050 OMNITURS, Savski trg 7, Beograd, tel. 761 - 0127 AXIOM , Bul.A.Carnojevica 66, tel. 761 - 0127 SKILL, Milentija Popovica 9, Sava Centar. tel. 311-3684 EUROPCAR, Bulevar M. Pupina, 10g, tel. 212 03 42 GET MOBILE, Zorana Đinđiča 45 v, 11000 Beograd, tel. 313 06 39 UTD, Sava Centar, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 20 5000 AVIS, Hotel Hyatt Regency, Milentija Popovića 5, Beograd, tel. 313 96 16 HERTZ, Vladimira Popovica 6, tel. 20 28 200 SIXT, Žorža Klemensoa 19, tel. 328 7070

AVIO KOMPANIJE - AIRwAY COMPANIES AEROFLOT, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel. 328-6064 www.aeroflot.ru AEROSVIT, Nikole Spasića 3, tel. 3283-430 www.aerosvit.com AIR FRANCE, Knez Mihailova 30/II, tel. 2638-222 www.airfrance.com AL ITALIA, Terazije 43/I, tel. 3245-000 www.alitalia.com AUSTRIAN AIRLINES, Terazije 3/III, tel. 3248-077 www.austrian.com BRITISH AIRwAYS, Knez Mihailova 30/IV, tel. 3281-303 www.britishairways.com CZECH AIRLINES, Kralja Milana 6/I, tel. 3614-592 www.czechairlines.com EMIRATES, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel./fax. 303-4489 www.emirates.com LUFTHANSA, Terazije 3/VII, tel. 3034-944 www.lufthansa.com MONTENEGRO AIRLINES, Knez Mihailova 23/I, tel. 2621-122, www.montenegroairlines.com OLYMPIC AIRLINES, Vasina 14/1, tel. 3036-750 www.olimpicairlines.com QATAR AIRwAYS ,Studentski trg 10, tel. 2627-879, www.qatarairways.com

QANTAS, Knez Mihailova 30/III, tel. 2639-166, www.qantas.com.au SINGAPORE AIRLINES, Francuska 17/I, tel. 3035-738, www.singaporeair.rs/ž SRI LANKAN AIRLINES, Trg Nikole Pašića 12/4, tel. 3035-739, www.srilankan.aero SwISS INTERNATIONAL, Terazije 3/VII, tel. 3030-140 ,www.swiss.com TUNISAIR, Skadarska 19/I, tel. 3233-174, www.tunisair.com TURKISH AIRLINES, Knez Mihailova 30/V, tel. 3036-195, www.thy.com DOMAćE AVIO KOMPANIJE

AVIOGENEX, Narodnih heroja 43, tel.2600-445, www.aviogenex.com JAT AIRwAYS, Bulevar umetnosti 16, tel.3112-123, www.jat.com

VAŽNI TELEFONI - IMPORTANT PHONE NUMBERS BUĐENJE - wAKE UP SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19811 HITNA POMOć - EMERGENCY wARD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .194 MEĐUMESNI RAZGOVORI - LONG-DISTANCE CALLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .900 MEĐUNARODNI RAZGOVORI - INTERNATIONAL CALLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .901 METEOROLOŠKA OBAVEŠTENJA - wEATHER FORECAST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19011 MILICIJA - POLICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .192 OPŠTE INFORMACIJE - GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . .9812 PRIJEM TELEGRAMA TELEFONOM - TELEGRAMS BY PHONE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9813 SPORTSKE INFORMACIJE - SPORTS INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9814 TAčNO VREME - TIME INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .195 TELEFONSKI PRETPLATNICI - PHONE DIRECTORY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11811 URGENTNI CENTAR - EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .361-8444 VATROGASCI - FIRE DEPARTMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .193

DIPLOMATSKA PREDSTAVNIŠTVA-DIPLOMATIC OFFICES INFORMATION: For all formalities concerning the extension of sojourn in Yugoslavia, issuing of visas, losing of passports in Belgrade, contact the Ministry of Internal Affairs, Secretariat in Belgrade,26, Kneza Miloša St. tel. 3615-055 www.mfa.gov.rs

ALBANIJA/ALBANIA, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 25A, tel. 3066-642, fax 2665-439 ALŽIR/ALGERIA, Maglajska 26b, tel. 3671-211 fax 2668-200 ANGOLA/ANGOLA, Vladete Kovačevića 14, tel. 2653-422 fax 2653-424 ARGENTINA/ARGENTINA, Knez Mihailova 24/I, tel. 2623-751 fax 2622-630 AUSTRALIJA/AUSTRALIA, Vladimira Popovića 38-40, 8th floor, tel. 3303-400 fax 3303-409 AUSTRIJA/AUSTRIA, Kneza Sime Markovića 2, tel. 3336-500, 3031-964 fax.2635-606 Konzulat/Consular Section, tel. 3336-593

BELGIJA/BELGIUM, Krunska 18, tel. 3230-018 fax 3244-394 Odelj. za vize/Visa Section, tel. 0800/120-120

BELORUSIJA/BELARUS, Deligradska 13, tel. 3616-938 fax 3616-836 BOLIVIJA/BOLIVIA, -consulate, Slobodana Jovanovića 23, tel./fax 2757-819 BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA/ BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA, Krunska 9, tel.3241-170 fax 3241-057 Konzulat/Consular section, tel.3038-204

BRAZIL/BRAZIL, Krunska 14, tel. 3239-781 fax 3230-653 BUGARSKA/BULGARIA, Birčaninova 26, tel. 3613-980 fax 3611-136 Konzulat/Consular section, Hadži Milentijeva 69, tel.3446-454

CRNA GORA/MONTENEGRO, Užička 1, tel. 2668-975, fax 3699-546 čEŠKA/CZECH REPUBLIC, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 22, tel. 3230-133 fax 3236-448 čILE/CHILE-consulate, Tomaša Ježa 16-20, tel./fax 2459-974 DANSKA/DENMARK, Neznanog junaka 9a, tel. 3679-500 fax 3679-502 EGIPAT/EGYPT, Andre Nikolića 12, tel. 2650-585 fax 2652-036 EKVADOR/ECUADOR-consulate, Graničarska 8/III, tel./fax. 3440-135 FINSKA/FINLAND, Birčaninova 29, tel. 3065-400 fax 3065-375 FRANCUSKA/FRANCE, Pariska 11, tel. 3023-500 fax. 3023-510 GABON/GABON- consulate, Lomina 48, tel. 3626-147 fax 3626-110 GANA/GHANA, Djordja Vajferta 50, tel. 3440-856 fax 344-0071 GRčKA/GREECE, Francuska 33, tel. 3226-523 fax 3344-746 Konzulat/Consular Section, Strahinjića bana 76, tel. 3341-507

GVINEJA/GUINEA, Ohridska 4, tel./fax 3444-840 HOLANDIJA/THE NETHERLANDS, Simina 29, tel. 2023-900 fax 2023-999 HRVATSKA/CROATIA, Kneza Miloša 62, tel. 3610-535 fax 3610-032 Konzulat/Consular Section, Sime Lozanića 11, tel. 3670-078 fax 3613-566

INDIJA/INDIA, Ljutice Bogdana 8, tel.2661-029 fax 3674-209 INDONEZIJA/INDONESIA, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 18, tel. 3674-062 fax 3672-984 IRAN/IRAN, Ljutice Bogdana 40, tel. 3674-360 fax 3674-363

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ITALIJA/ITALY, Birčaninova 11, tel. 3066-100 fax 3249-413 Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, Birčaninova 9, tel.3066-169 IZRAEL/ISRAEL, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 47, tel. 3643-500 fax 3643-555 JAPAN/JAPAN, Vladimira Popovića 6, (Genex Apartments), tel. 3012-800 fax 311-8258 KANADA/CANADA, Kneza Miloša 75, tel. 3063-000 fax 3063-042 KINA/CHINA, Avgusta Cesarca 2V, tel. 3695-057 fax 3066-001 Konzulat/Consular Section, Perside Milenković 9, tel. 3693-163 KIPAR/CYPRUS, Generala Save Grujića 18, tel. 3620-002 fax 3621-122 KONGO/CONGO, Moravska 5, tel/fax. 3446-431 KUBA/CUBA, Vukovarska 3, tel. 3692-441 fax 3692-442 LIBAN/LEBANON, Diplomatska kolonija 5, tel. 3675-153 fax 3675-156 LIBIJA/LIBYA, Sime Lozanića 6, tel. 2663-445 fax 3670-805 MAĐARSKA/HUNGARY, Krunska 72, tel. 2440-472 fax 3441-876 Konzulat/Consular Section, Vladete Kovačevića 3, tel. 3691-974 MAKEDONIJA/MACEDONIA, Gospodar Jevremova 34, tel. 3284-924 fax 3285-076 Konzulat/ Consular Section, tel. 3284-967 (except Wednesday) MALEZIJA/ MALAYSIA, Krajiška 2, tel. 2662-736 fax 3679-080 MAROKO/MOROCCO, Sanje Živanović 4, tel. 369-0288 fax 3690-499 MEKSIKO/MEXICO, Ljutice Bogdana 5, tel. 3674-170, fax 3675-013

MIJANMAR/MYANMAR, Kneza Miloša 72, tel. 3617-165 fax 3614-968 NAMIBIJA/NAMIBIA-consulate, Boška Buhe 220, Grocka, mob.063/1111 450 NEMAčKA/GERMANY, Kneza Miloša 74-76, tel. 3064-300 fax 3064-303 Konzulat/Consular Section, Birčaninova 19a, tel. 3064-400

NORVEŠKA/NORwAY, Užička 43, tel. 367-0404 fax 369-0158 PAKISTAN/PAKISTAN, Bulevar kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 62, tel. 2661-676 fax 2661-667 PALESTINA/PALESTINE, Maglajska 14, tel. 3671-407 fax 3671-336 PAPSKI NUNCIJAT/APOSTOLIC NUNCIATURE, Svetog Save 24, tel. 3085-356 fax 3085-216 POLJSKA/POLAND, Kneza Miloša 38, tel. 2065-301 fax 3617-576 PORTUGAL/PORTUGAL, Vladimira Gaćinovića 4, tel. 2662-894 fax 2662-892 REPUBLIKA IRSKA/REPUBLIC OF IRELAND – consulat, Kosančićev venac 2/1, tel. 263-5911

REPUBLIKA KOREJA/REPUBLIC OF KOREA, Užička 32 tel. 3674-225 fax. 3674-229 RUMUNIJA/ROMANIA, Užička 10, tel. 3675-772 fax 3675-771 Konzulat/Consular Section, Miloja Đaka 1c,tel. 3670-798 RUSIJA/RUSSIAN FEDERATION, Deligradska 32, tel. 3611-323 fax 3611-900 Konzulat/ Consular Section, tel. 3613-964

SAD/USA, Kneza Miloša 50, tel. 3619-344, fax 361-5489 SAN MARINO/ SAN MARINO, Makedonska 24/25, tel.3223-509 fax.3374-144 SEJŠELI/SEYCHELLES-consulate, Beogradskog bataljona 42, tel. 3547-309 fax 3547-028 SIRIJA/SYRIA, Aleksandra Stambolijskog 13, tel. 2666-124 fax 3440-221 SLOVAčKA/SLOVAK REPUBLIC, Bulevar umetnosti 18, tel. 2223-800 fax 2223-820 SLOVENIJA/SLOVENIA, Pariska 15, tel. 3038-477 fax 3288-657 ŠPANIJA/SPAIN, Prote Mateje 45, tel. 344-0231 fax 344-4203 ŠRI LANKA/SRI LANKA- consulate, Žanke Stokić 21, tel. 3690-245 fax 369-0243 ŠVAJCARSKA/SwITZERLAND, Birčaninova 27, tel. 306-5820 fax 2657-253 Odeljenje za vize/ Visa Section, tel. 3065-815 ŠVEDSKA/SwEDEN, Ledi Pedžet 2, tel. 2069-200 fax 2069-250 Odeljenje za vize/Visa Section, fax 2069-270 (except Wednesday) TUNIS/TUNISIA, Vase Pelagića 19, tel. 3690-194 fax 2651-848 TURSKA/TURKEY, Krunska 1, tel. 333-2400 fax 333-2433 UKRAJINA/UKRAINE, Bulevar oslobođenja 87, tel. 3978-987 fax 3978-998

Konzulat/Consular Section tel. 2660-247 VELIKA BRITANIJA/GREAT BRITAIN, Resavska 46, tel. 2645-055, 3060-900 fax 2659-651 UJEDINJENE NACIJE/UNITED NATIONS, Tolstojeva 47-49, tel. 3639-803, fax. 3674-001 EVROPSKA ZAJEDNICA/EUROPEAN UNION, Krunska 73,tel. 3083-200 fax. 3083-201

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NEKRETNINE - REAL ESTATE BEYOND REAL ESTATE, Despota Djurdja 13, tel. 292-0377 www.beyond-realestate.com CBRE, Omladinskih brigada 88b, tel: 22 58 777, www.cbre.rs COLLIERS, Bul kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 20, tel. 2663-863, www.colliers.rs CONTINENTAL 100, Dobračina 21, mob: 064 1193671, tel: 3038662, www.continental100.rs EURORENT, Takovska 45, tel. 329- 3161, www.eurorent-belgrade.com DANOS GROUP, Vladimira Popovica 6, tel. 2600-603, www.danos.rs EURODIPLOMATIC, Dravska 18, tel. 308-68-78, www.eurodiplomatic.com MENTOR REAL ESTATE, Mileševska 2, tel. 308-90-80, www.mentorrent.co.rs VOS MEDIATOR, Bulevar vojvode Bojovića 4, tel.2920-466, www.vosmediator.co.rs

KONGRESNI CENTAR SAVA - CONGRESS CENTER SAVA Milentija Popovića 9, tel. 220-6060, www.savacentar.net

BEOGRADSKI SAJAM – BELGRADE FAIR Bulevar vojvode Mišića 14, tel. 2655-555, /www.sajam.co.rs

TURISTIčKE AGENCIJE - TOURIST AGENCIES YUTA -Jugoslovensko udruženje turističkih agencija Yugoslav Association of Tourist Agencies Kondina 14, tel. 3228-687, 3228-686 fax 3224-137 www.yuta.rs GLOB METROPOLITEN TOURS, Makenzijeva 26, t el. 2430-852, www.metropoliten.com EXCLUSIVE TOURS, Makedonska 30, tel. 3227-539 www.exclusivetours.co.rs MAGELAN CORPORATION, Novi Sad, Zmaj Jovina 23, tel. 021/6624-823 www.magelan.rs PAN EUROPA ADRIATIC, Bulevar Despota Stefana 33, tel. 3242-187 www.adriatic.co.rs SMART TRAVEL, Svetog Save 43/ I, tel. 2441253, 3087486 www.smart4.co.rs

ŠOPING MOLOVI – SHOPPING MALLS DELTA CITY, Juria Gagagarina 16 MERCATOR, Bulevar Umetnosti TC MILENIUM, Knez Mihajlova 21a UŠćE Shopping Center, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina ZIRA, Ruzveltova 33 ZLATARE - JEwELERS JOKIć JEwELRY&wATCHES, Knez Mihailova 32, tel.2623-862 MAESTRO JEwELERS, Nušićeva 12 a, tel. 334-4459 VITANOV, Vasina 14, RK Beograd, tel. 2181 394 ZLATARNA CELJE, TC Merkator, Bulevar umetnosti 4, tel. 3116-990

USLUGE - SERVICES INSTITUT STRANIH JEZIKA – INSTITUTE FOR FOREIGN LANGUAGE INSTITUTE FOR FOREIGN LANGUAGES www.isj.co.yu Gospodar Jovanova 35, tel. 2623-022, 2623-034 fax: 2625-525 INTERNACIONALNE ŠKOLE – INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS ANGLO AMERICAN SCHOOL OF BELGRADE, Velisava Vulovića 47, tel. 3675-777 www.aplus.edu.rs BRITANNICA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Užička 21, tel. 367-1557, www.britinterschool.com

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Smetanina 12, tel.3066-096, www.british-int-school.org.uk

BROOK HILL INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Augusta Cesarca 2, tel. 3691-310 www.brookhill.rs

CHARTwELL INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Teodora Drajzera 38, tel. 3675-299 www.chartwellinternational.org

DEUTSCHE SCHULE, Sanje Živanović 10, tel. 3693-135, www.dsbelgrad.com ÉCOLE FRANçAISE, Kablarska 31-35, tel. 3691-762, www.efb.rs INTERNATIONAL NURSERY SCHOOL,Temišvarska 2 , tel.2667-130, www.insb.rs

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE (ISB),Temišvarska 19, tel.206 9999, www.isb.co.rs PADDINGTON SUNFLOwER, English nursery, Belville, tel. 069-750-930 , www.paddingtonsunflower.com

PRIMA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, Kvarnerska 4, tel. 369-3060,www primainterschoolbelgrade.com Российская школа в БелгРаде, Bulevar umetnosti 28, tel. 2163-883, www. serbschool.ucoz.ru

MEDICINSKE USLUGE - MEDICAL SERVICES DEŽURNE ZDRAVSTVENE USTANOVE ON-CALL HEALTH INSTITUTIONS KLINIčKI CENTAR SRBIJE, Pasterova 2, 3618-444, 3617-777 APOTEKE - PHARMACIES 00-24h PRVI MAJ, Kralja Milana 9, tel. 3241-349 PRIMA 1, bolnica Sveti Sava, tel. 361-10-88, 361-09-99 SVETI SAVA, Nemanjina 2, tel. 2643-170 ZEMUN, Glavna 34, tel. 2618-582 FARMANEA, Trg republike, tel. 3344-923 BOLNICE - HOSPITALS KLINIčKI CENTAR SRBIJE, Pasterova 2, tel. 361-8444, 361-7777 KLINIčKI CENTAR BEŽANIJSKA KOSA, Bežanijska bb, tel. 3010-777 KLINIKA Dr DRAGIŠA MIŠOVIć, Heroja Milana Tepića 1, tel. 2669-955 KLINIKA ZVEZDARA, Dimitrija Tucovića 161, tel. 3806-333 KLINIčKI CENTAR ZEMUN, Vukova 9, tel.2612-616 VOJNOMEDICINSKA KLINIKA, Crnotravska 17, tel. 2661-122 PRIVATNE KLINIKE - PRIVATE CLINICS BEL MEDIC General Hospital, Koste Jovanovića 87 tel. 309-1000 BEL MEDIC Outpatient Clinic, Viktora Igoa 1, tel. 309-1000 BEL MEDIC Dom zdravlja, Palmira Toljatija 1, tel. 309 -1000 KLINIKA PETKOVIć, Maglajska 19, tel. 2667-078 MEDICAL CENTER „HBO“, Bulevar Vojvode Stepe 347b, tel. 3972-666 MEDENTA, Novopazarska 14/1, tel: 344-0017 POLIKLINIKA „Dr Ristić“, Novi Beograd, Narodnih heroja 38, tel. 2693-287, 2697-808 SLODENT, Centar za estetsku stomatologiju, Lješka35, Beograd , tel: 3553-088 , 060/3553-088 VETERINARSKA KLINIKA - VETERINARY HOSPITAL Veterinarski fakultet, Bulevar oslobođenja 18, tel. 3615-436

SPORT FUDBALSKI STADIONI - FOOTBALL STADIUMS GRADSKI STADION ZEMUN, Ugrinovačka 80, Zemun, tel. 3196-057 STADION FK “CRVENA ZVEZDA”, Ljutice Bogdana 1, tel. 3672-060 STADION JNA (FK “PARTIZAN”), Humska 1, tel. 3227-181 STADION FK “OBILIć”, Gospodara Vučića 189, tel. 3807-426 STADION FK “RADNIčKI”, Tošin bunar 190, tel. 2699-119 OMLADINSKI STADION, Mije Kovačevića 10a, tel. 3291-514 BAZENI - SwIMMING POOLS BANJICA, Crnotravska 4, tel. 2667-999 25. MAJ, Tadeuša Košćuškog 63, tel. 2622-866 11. APRIL, Auto-put 2, tel. 2671-547 KOŠUTNJAK, Kneza Višeslava 72, tel. 7551-353 OLIMP, Vjekoslava Kovača 11, tel. 2412-353 TAŠMAJDAN, Ilije Garašanina 26, tel. 324-0901 GOLF KLUB – GOLF CLUB GOLF KLUB BEOGRAD, Ada Ciganlija 2, tel.3056-837 fax 3551-559 www.golfclub.co.rs JP ADA CIGANLIJA, Ada Ciganlija 2, tel. 3544-634 HIPODROM - HORSE RACING TRACK, BRC HIPODROM, Paštrovićeva 2, tel. 354-6835

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