Peaks of the Balkans (13-days) Hiking Beyond Borders in the Western Balkans
This tour includes ten days of trekking on the Peaks of the Balkans Trail and a day exploring Kosovo's rich heritage and cultural elements. It is suitable for fit hikers who are interested in getting to know the history, people and culture of the three travelled countries. Travellers should bring previous hiking experience, be willing to forego the comfort of a hot shower for one overnight and be able to walk up to eight hours.
Overview From the airport we first head to the historical city of Shkodra. A scenic ferry ride on tranquil Lake Koman takes us into the Albanian Alps. We hike through the remarkable Valbona and Gashi River national parks into uncharted terrain, enjoying true hospitality in the village Cerem and staying with shepherds on their pastures in Doberdol. The journey takes us to Kosovo's highest mountain Gjeravica and into Europe's youngest country. We immerse in its rich past visiting the cities Gjakova, Prizren and UNESCO proclaimed Decani Monastery. The trek continues from the mighty Rugova Canyon to Montenegro's Lake Plav. After a panoramic hike in Grbaja Valley we trek through the heart of the Accursed Mountains back into Albania and to the village Theth, but not without the opportunty to climb Mt. Arapi. After a last memorable overnight on a farmstay in Nderlysa the journey ends in the capital Tirana. “Peaks of the Balkans” Highlights:
hiking beyond borders in Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro optional climb of Kosovo’s highest peak, the “Matterhorn of Albania” and two more peaks travel through the international Balkans Peace Park spanning five national parks authentic experiences staying with shepherds on high alpine summer pastures visiting UNESCO proclaimed Monastery Decani on a guided tour
Duration: 13 days Group Size: 8-15 + 2 guides Walks: 10x | Ø 6 hours (plus optional extensions) Highest Point: Gjeravica 2.656m (Kosovo) Start & Finish: Tirana, Mother Teresa Airport (Albania) Accommodation: simple mountain hut, family-run guesthouses and middle-class city hotels Luggage Transfers: yes, by horse and car Season: mid-June to mid-September (limited by Doberdol)
Tour Facts Services included:
accommodation: 1x overnight in basic shepherds huts (limited facilities, no electricity) 6x stay in a family-run guesthouse (shared rooms and facilities) 5x accommodation in hotels (private rooms, en-suite bath) meals usually three per day, except arrival and departure days, usually packed lunch transfers according to itinerary as well as luggage transport with cars and horses entrance fees, including sights and museums border crossing applications (applications to be filed min. two weeks in advance) English speaking guide support of the group during their journey on the Peaks of the Balkans Trail
Not included: airfare compulsory overseas health insurance gratuities (ca. 40 EUR), drinks and souvenirs Hikers should bring the following equipment: Sturdy ankle-high hiking boots, rainwear, sun protection (cream, hat, glasses), 25-40 liters backpack, 1.5 liters water gear, towel and swimsuit (optional). Please note that suitcases are not suitable for transport on horses and only one piece of baggage with maximum weight of 15kg is included. For the overnight in the mountain hut we suggest a sleeping bag liner (Hüttenschlafsack) for added personal comfort.
Please refer to the equipment check-list for more details. Visitors are expected to respect the wildlife, leave what they find, dispose of their waste properly and to be considerate with locals.
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Historic Capital and Gateway to the Alps Arrival in Albania and Visit of Shkodra
Rendezvous at Tirana airport, during the transfer (85km/90min) to the hotel close to Shkoder’s center we gather first impressions and the country is introduced. After check-in and time permitting we can swim in one of the villages at the shores of the Balkans biggest lake, visit the Rozafa Castle to learn about its legend and enjoy fabulous views that excite our curiosity for the days of travel through the Albanian Alps. Back in the city the cafés bust with people that flock for a stroll to the pedestrian zone that is lined with bourgeoisie town houses, a reminder of the cities rich past. We immerse in the Italian flair of the city, the buzz of the bazaar or in Albania’s past captured on film at the Marubi photo library. Time to enjoy an espresso with the locals or meet an artisan before the daylight fades. The day comes to an end over a carefully crafted traditional dinner. After an eventful first day in Albania we are wishing each other a good night and anticipate the coming highlights of our adventure on the Peaks of the Balkans Trail. * program may change according to arrival time
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Journey into the Accursed Mountains Tranquil ferry ride & warm up walk in the Valbona National Park
9km
400m
0m
4h
We rise early for the transfer through the scenic Drin Gorges to the Koman Dam (55km/1:30h). The picturesque reservoir loops similar to a Norwegian fjord through sheer rock walls and is considered a highlight of the Albanian Alps. The custom made ferry stops at several points to pick up locals from remote villages before arriving at Fierze (46km/3h). After lunch we travel by minibus past traditional villages composed of mighty, wooden shingle covered stone houses into the highlands and the Valbona National Park. As a warm-up for the anticipated trek we walk along the crystal clean stream, on trails lined with wild berries, through quiet forests to the secluded Xhemes Lake for a swimming break. The walk ends at our cozy mountain guesthouse. We itch to start the trek when we see the jagged peaks from the balcony, tomorrow will be the day.
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The Highest Peaks of the Alps and Wilderness Beyond
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Hike over the Persllopi Pass or through a canyon to Cerem
14km 10km
1200m 500m
950m 100m
8h 4h
The trail starts nearby the guesthouse with a long ascent and views of the highest peaks of the Albanian Alps, including Jezerca (2.694m). After passing deserted pastures and a forest section, a stepped alpine valley is reached. Here the solitary mountains are all ours. The Persllopi Pass (2.039m) is the highest point and forms the border with Montenegro at the base of the country’s highest mountain Kolata. Past an interesting snow cave and through a karst labyrinth we return to Albania and, with views of the valley over meadows and meeting shepherds, descend to the isolated village Cerem. If the weather doesn’t permit it we will walk another shorter route through a canyon to reach the simple guesthouse. Cerem is the last outpost before the Gashi NP, without mobile phone signal or electricity. Meals are prepared with ingredient of the garden, water for washing is heated on a stove and the hospitality of our hosts makes up for the lack of comfort.
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Pastoral Lifestyle in the remote Border Triangle Panoramic hike to the summer pastures of Doberdol
16km
1300m
650m
7h
First through the village and over meadows we walk for a short section on a dirt road to the border and pass once more through former Yugoslav territory. Along the way we sample wild berries, admire the local flora and views to Montenegro’s highest peak Zla Kolata (2.534m). With a bit of luck we spot the Golden Eagle (Albania’s national animal) at the rim of the deep river canyon while walking at high altitude. The slopes of the Shkelzen Massif are speckled with alpine pastures, some of them are on our route and we have coffee with shepherds before arriving at the glacial-shaped valley of Doberdol (1.750m). In the simple huts we will relinquish the comfort of a hot shower in return for hospitality. The shepherd families prepare our meals and we have the opportunity to learn more about the lifestyle in the remote highlands. Most of them spend three months with their herds, adding a side income by collecting herbs, berries and recently also hosting guests.
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Europe’s newest Nation and its highest Mountain
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Cross-border trek into Kosovo and climb of Mt. Gjeravica
14km +2km
950m +200m
950m +200m
7:00h +1h
Wishing farewell to the families, together with the pack mules we pass through the wide open valley under Tromeda / Trekufiri (2.366m), the peak where the borders of Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro meet in one point. Over blueberry covered slopes the border with Kosovo is climbed and for the first time we catch a glimpse of Mt. Gjeravica (2.656m), sitting enthroned and isolated over the alpine tundra that is dotted with glacial lakes. Climbing from the saddle to Kosovo’s highest summit is optional, the views over the Dukagjin plain are splendid from both vantage points. Before finishing our hike we can refresh at the lakes. From a shepherd settlement (1.780m) we continue by jeep to Gjakova (1:30h), the city served as a trade center for the whole area, developed a large bazaar and rich merchant caste. Back in town the contrast between the meadows couldn’t be any bigger, but we enjoy the comfort of a hotel in the heart of the old town.
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Cultural Treasures and the Kosovo Question Gjakova and Prizren old towns, the Serbs of Kosovo
The day is dedicated to the unknown treasures of Kosovo and provides an overview of the past & present situation of the country. In Gjakova we visit the old bazaar area, Hadumi Mosque and sip expresso in an old han. Next is Prizren (28km, 40min) the cultural capital was seat of the Ottoman government, its castle provides panoramic views of the mosques and hamam. In one of the cafes we absorb the vibrant oriental atmosphere and talk about its historical importance and struggle for independence. In a Serbian enclave (50km/1h) we visit a family winery, sample their products and have lunch. The Serbian perspective on Kosovo is best experienced visiting the monastery, a monk tells us about the 13th cent church that miraculously survived all conflicts unharmed and gained UNESCO World Heritage status – a truly spiritual place. Our day concludes with a transfer through the mighty Rugova Gorge, Kosovo’s outdoor destination number one, to the remote village Reka e Allages, at 1.300m it makes the best base of tomorrow’s walk to Hajla and overlooks the region. Our hosts receive us with a warm welcome and local specialties at their re-erected family home.
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Blueberries, Flowers & Views into Montenegro High above the Rugova Canyon and to Mt. Hajla (2.403m)
10km +6km
550m +650m
600m +650m
4:30h +3:30h
The walk starts behind our host’s house between the stables, the ascent follows meadows and runs on hidden trails through pine forest rich in blueberries to the base of Mt. Hajla (1.800m). The climb of the peak on a steep circular route is optional. Once the ridge that forms the border with Montenegro is reached, one enjoys great views deep into the neighboring country from the 300m high cliff. There’s a good chance to find many rare plants like Edelweiss or the endemic Albanian lily on the slopes. The descent on another route is partly trail-less and leads back to the shelter at the base. On high altitude we continue on a now unused road to the highest of the 13 villages of Rugova and finish at another guesthouse in the scenic hamlet Drelaj. Our host wrote a book about his experience during the Kosovo conflict, the family keeps their own animals and is among the few that remain in the mountains year around.
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Hiking Beyond Borders from Kosovo to Montenegro
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Past glacial lakes to the greenest valley of the Alps and Lake Plav
15km
1150m
1050m
7:30h
After a 30min transfer to Liqenat we ascend through the idyllic pine forest and rest at two emerald glacial lakes (1.850m), at their banks prospers a wide range of alpine flora. Our trail follows an ancient caravan route that connected Kosovo to Shkodra. At the Jelenka Pass (2.272m) we reach the highest point, from here the trail is lined with blueberries in late summer, passes pads of flowers and grey rock. Below us the shepherd settlement Roshkodol is visible and around us many peaks above 2.500m. Walking on top of the ridge the terrain to Ravno Brdo Pass (2.178m) is almost level and affords good views. The pass proofs to be a magnificent viewpoint towards the rugged peaks ahead of us and into the lush valley of Babino Polje below. While we have freely crossed the border on foot, the shortest road connection still remains closed. From the tiny village a van takes us to our hotel in Plav (14km, 40min). Located right at the bank of Lake Plav (900m) you can swim and enjoy the sun set on its mirror-like surface during dinner.
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Grbaja Valley - Dramatic Prokletije Range Ridge walk with panoramic views of the Karanfili Karst Towers
12km
950m
900m
6:30h
The route in Montenegro’s Grbaja Valley is among the most beautiful in the Balkans. A short ride along the lakeshore shows traditional houses before arriving in the narrow valley wedged between the karst towers of Karanfili (2.461m). This is the most impressive part of the Accursed Mountains and dream of many climbers. Ascending through the ancient oak forest we enjoy great views from Mt. Can (1.863m) before climbing on the ridge to the summit of Mt. Taljanka (2.057m). Here the grey walls seem almost within our grasp and views gaze far into the Kelmend region of Albania. From the first viewpoint part of the group can return on a similar path to the valley while the others tackle the summit and return on a longer route over the Vajusha Pass before we jointly celebrate our great hike over cold drinks at a beer garden. In the afternoon there’s the option to visit the center of Plav, a tower house and private museum-like collection. The walk can also be skipped and the day spent individually with sightseeing in Plav or relaxation at the lake.
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Through the Heart of the Accursed Mountains Into Albania with option to climb Mt. Arapi (2.217m)
11km +3km
550m +500m
900m +500m
6:15h +3h
In a 4wd vehicle we drive to the village Vusanje and visit the Grlja Waterfall or a karst spring named Eye of the Skakavica. The ice-cold little river is born from the snows high up in the mountains and surfaces here as a pupil-shaped spring. The mountain framed Ropojana Valley leads to a dried-up lake where we cross into Albania, a weathered border stone is the only reminder of the once sealed boundaries. Several shepherd huts, some shacks others abandoned military posts, line the scenic trail that take us to the heart of the Alps. The canine tooth of Mt. Arapi (2.217m) is visible from afar, reaching the Peja Pass (1.711m) your guide will decide if the summit can be tackled. The ones that decide to pass the challenging peak, suitable for the experienced only, rest or go ahead to the village. The isolated location of the mountain provides breathtaking views. A steep descent on a well-trodden caravan path followed by a short ride take us to the village Theth.
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Albanian Traditions and Village Life The highlights of Theth, ancient Kanun and laid back Nderlysa
6km
150m
400m
3:00h
On a walk through the village we talk to the locals, visit the iconic catholic church, famed waterfall and upon entering the lock-in tower dive into the history of the “kanun�. It is the perfect place to elaborate on the highland law code of Leke Dukagjini, its origins, impact, relevance for the blood feud and Albanian hospitality as well as present day significance. An old bridle path takes us past a canyon to the village Nderlysa where a sumptuous lunch awaits on a farmstead. Our hosts grow most vegetables themselves and keep all kind of domestic animals, wild trout is caught from the nearby river. The afternoon is at your disposable, can be spend swimming, relaxing in the garden under the fruit trees, helping with dinner preparations and farm work or exploring the bizarre glacial mills. After another delicious feast made of organic ingredients we light a camp fire and enjoy our last night in the mountains together.
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The “Blue Eye” and Modern Capital Walk to a hidden Oasis, Scenic Drive and Metropolitan Tirana
9km
275m
275m
3:00h
We hike through a canyon to the Karst spring known for its play of colors as the “Blue Eye”. The bravest can take a dip in the icy waters while butterflies swirl around us – truly a hidden oasis to relax at. Without mobile phone coverage, electricity and road access busy everyday life seems completely forgotten. After a meal at the guesthouse the transfer over a scenic pass road takes us back to Shkodra (75km/3h), where we have a drink and change cars for Tirana (94km/90min). On a city walk we immerse in the turmoil of the vibrant city, admire historic buildings of all periods and explore the “blloku” district. Once the living quarters of politburo elite, it now turned into a chic upmarket neighborhood packed with boutique shops and cafes. During our final dinner we recall the past days and celebrate a successful and memorable journey on the Peaks of the Balkans Trail!
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A great Journey on the Peaks of the Balkan Trail ends Farewell from the Balkans and Return Home
Time permitting you can individually stroll through the city, visit the National History Museum, Art Gallery or other sights of the city. The last days presented us a very different image of Albania that stands in stark contrast to the rural areas we explored in the Accursed Mountains. Our multifaceted journey through Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro ends with a single timed transfer to the airport (20km, 30min). We hope you will keep the journey in dear memory, wish each other farewell and you a safe trip back home.