autumn 2013
No. 20
THE design ISSUE
caroline flack
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Contributors FOUNDER | EDITOR IN CHIEF
Le’Keisha Sims DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL & BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT
Moeima Dukuly INTERNATIONAL FASHION DIRECTOR
Rachel Holland WEST COAST MARKET & MULTIMEDIA EDITOR
Jesse Ashton COPY EDITOR
Jessica Schink GRAPHIC DESIGN
CONTACT:
EMMA JOYCE
infoxomag@gmail.com
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
SUBMISSIONS:
JEAN-LUC BROUARD NATHAN PASK JEMIMA MARRIOTT VIC LENTAIGNE JASON SADOURIAN KAREEM ABDUL VANESSA DEZUTTER KIMBERLEY LANGSTONE
rachel@xomagazineonline.com
SPECIAL THANKS
FOR ALL ADVERTISING AND SPONSORSHIP INQUIRIES
NATHAN PASK BIP LING CAROLINE FLACK APM MEDIA STORM ARTISTS KATIE EARY JANE BOWLER
moeima@xomagazineonline.com WEB/SOCIAL MEDIA
xomagazineonline.com TWITTER: @we_are_xo INSTAGRAM: @we_are_xo FACEBOOK: FACEBOOK.COM/XOMAGAZINE
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Contents THE USUALS
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FASHION COLOR THEORY 21 WHITE LIGHT WHITE HEAT 30 UNAFRAID 36 CLEAN CUT 44 PAPER CUT 52 BLACK IS THE NEW BLACK 60 GARDEN DREAM 66
PHOTOJOURNALS #LFW 14
XO LISTEN 86 AUTUMN PLAYLIST 21
WE HEART 87
SPECIAL GUESTS JANE BOWLER 6 KATIE EARY 10 CAROLINE FLACK 74 BIP LING 21 LONG READ: ARCHITECTURE AND FASHION 82 #RADAR 84
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WELCOME TO THE
DESIGN ISSUE
WORDS: LE’KEISHA SIMS
::JANE BOWLER::
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jane bowler
What is your design process like when creating a new collection?
I am very much interested in the materials and processes, allowing them to control the outcome of my collection. Allowing the process to define the form and textiles means that I don’t always know what I am going to get as an end result. Which is really exciting!
Where do you draw inspiration from and what were some of the things that honed/shaped your aesthetic? My textile design background has certainly shaped the aesthetics of my collections along with the influence of my design team, I have an amazing knitwear designer (Heather Orr) and print designer (Sophie Gray-Cowley) and their thoughts and ideas combined with mine makes the perfect combination for a great collection.
Can you talk us through your SS14 collection? What were your main inspirations, and what were some of the key elements you wanted to showcase?
For SS14 I really wanted to create a collection which had show pieces along side more wearable items. The show pieces are very experimental, and are inspired by the materials and process concept. We also work directly on the stand for quite a lot of the collection, allowing the garments to grow naturally around the body. These show pieces are then filtered down to make the more wearable items. Plastics are always at the heart of any collection and once again I wanted them to be key in SS14 but to combine them with beautiful leathers, prints and knit. The accessories are once again a big part
of my collection this season, ranging from large feature necklaces and soft leather bags to more wearable and affordable pieces such as cuffs and earrings.
Who would you say is the Jane Bowler girl?
She’s fun, loves to look good and also likes to stand out from the crowd!
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FOR SS14 I REALLY WANTED TO CREATE A COLLECTION WHICH HAD SHOW PIECES ALONG SIDE MORE WEARABLE ITEMS. THE SHOW PIECES ARE VERY EXPERIMENTAL, AND ARE INSPIRED BY THE MATERIALS AND PROCESS CONCEPT. WE ALSO WORK DIRECTLY ON THE STAND FOR QUITE A LOT OF THE COLLECTION, ALLOWING THE GARMENTS TO GROW NATURALLY AROUND THE BODY. THESE SHOW PIECES ARE THEN FILTERED DOWN TO MAKE THE MORE WEARABLE ITEMS. PLASTICS ARE ALWAYS AT THE HEART OF ANY COLLECTION AND ONCE AGAIN I WANTED THEM TO BE KEY IN SS14 BUT TO COMBINE THEM WITH BEAUTIFUL LEATHERS, PRINTS AND KNIT
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How did you get into design?
It is all I have ever wanted to do. I have always loved being creative… I would feel lost without it! I never realized that I would be destined for fashion, I rejected the idea for a long time but it just kind of happened. I studied Art foundation, and chose design as my specialism but ended up making textile based work… so I then applied to study Textiles at BA. I got offered a job in a fashion studio after graduation and thought. I’ll give it a whirl! And that’s what spurred me on to study for a MA in Textiles with a fashion focus. And here I am now, with my own fashion label. As cheesy as it is.. I love what I do. I would be lost without it!
What are your top ten songs you’ll be playing this season? Are there any releases you are looking forward to?
We do enjoy a bit of Radio 6 in the studio, it’s sometimes the safer option when there are different music types around! If I need to gee myself up, I would listen to a Disclosure or the New Arctic monkeys album. I’m also looking forward to the new Anna Calvi Album. I also like a bit of Youth Lagoon, Alt-J, Daft Punk and the Yeah Yeah Yeah’s!
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jane bowler
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£#stylefile: katie eary
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#STYLEFILE: KATIE EARY WORDS: ROANNA PRICE
XO MAGAZINE CHATS PERSONAL STYLE, LIFE AND LONDON AND DESIGN INSPIRATION
Could you describe a typical day for you? Are you an early bird?
I am an early bird, I get up at about 7:30 put the kettle on, Every day is totally different day by day yesterday was the GQ style awards so I spent at least 4 hours getting ready haha. Whereas today we are back to reality, planning next season, factory appointments, collab meetings etc etc. What sort of outfits do you normally throw together on a day to day basis?
Right now I’m wearing my boys shorts and T because I stayed at his. Sometimes I make way more effort, it all depends on how I feel. Tomorrow its my birthday so I will be dressed up to the nines in Lanvin, Celine and Christopher Kane. Do you feel the pressure when getting dressed for high profile events and shows?
Yes, I never used too. But now I like to make the effort... I have learnt to expect the unexpected. I went to a Christmas party last year with damp hair (as I was so rushed) and ended up partying with with the most unlikely trio of Alex James, Simon Kelner and Mark Hix, had I have know, I would have made more effort. Needless to say, I haven’t made that mistake twice. What other designers do you love to wear?
Celine, Dolce and Gabbana, Christopher Kane and Givenchy.
Do you enjoy living in London? What are some of your favourite things to do in the city? I LOOOOOVE living in the city, you never know who your going to meet... My favourite thing to do in the city is trawl the many restaurants!!! There are sooo many, it never gets boring.
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How do you find the life of a designer, living one season ahead? I really enjoy creating new cool things everyday, its such a good feeling when you can see how much enjoyment people get from your creations.
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Do you have a process when you’re approaching a new collection, a starting point for your design inspiration? Yes, I have more of a system now, it kind of rolls like clockwork- something that took me at least 3 years to perfect. i ALWAYS will need a few weeks off, time to re-start and eventually the new ideas start to roll in, so me and my team spend a few weeks pulling images and getting a range together. We are now working out who we want to collaborate with etc etc. Its an exciting time right now. Designing will start to commence in the next few weeks.
What is it that feeds your love of design? Are there things in your day to day life or films or people?
Books are usually the primary source, you create an image from scratch and its only your art direction. Can you tell us a bit more about the influences behind your S/S 14 collection? Marabou Stork nightmare.
Who do you have in mind when your creating your pieces? Who’s the ideal Katie Eary man?
Hmmm, this changes season by season. I really like Jaden Smith at the moment. I design for anyone with a lust for life, youthful and energetic.
What has been the high point of your career so far?
There has been so many... Its really tough, but I would say meeting Jake and Dinos
Chapman, receiving a birthday present from Disney, Working with the brilliant Kanye, collaborating with an amazing high street brand (coming out in Feb) stay tuned for an announcement, and being able to create incredible things everyday. Where would you ideally be in five years time? Who knows... 5 Years ago I started, and look whats happened... every year i just cant believe it. Lets see shall we.
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I HAVE LEARNT
TO EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED. I WENT TO A CHRISTMAS PARTY LAST YEAR WITH DAMP HAIR (AS I WAS SO RUSHED) AND ENDED UP PARTYING WITH WITH THE MOST UNLIKELY TRIO OF ALEX JAMES, SIMON KELNER AND MARK HIX, HAD I HAVE KNOW, I WOULD HAVE MADE MORE EFFORT. NEEDLESS TO SAY, I HAVEN’T MADE THAT MISTAKE TWICE
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£#stylefile: katy eary
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#LFWPHOTOJOURNAL
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PHOTOS BY: JEAN-LUC BROUARD
NIAN SS14
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APU JAN SS14
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LULU LIU SS14
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PAM HOGG SS14
FAD SS14
JI CHENG SS14
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ASHLEY ISHAM SS14
PINGHE SS14
HOUSE OF EVOLUTION SS14
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ONG-OAJ PAIRAM SS14
ROHMIR SS14
ZEYNEP TOSUN SS14
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TAHIR SULTAN SS14
KIEV SS14
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autumn playlist
AUTUMNPLAYLIST 1. You’re Not The One - Sky Ferreira 2. Glory and Gore - Lorde
3. Violence (Enough Is Enough) - A Day To Remember 4. What You Need - Banks
5. Will I come (Heartbeat(s) Edit) - King Krule
6. AWAYFROMHERE / WARSONGS - NO CEREMONY/// 7. Motor City, NYC - Twin Guns
8. Heaven Knows - The Pretty Reckless 9. Love Song #1 - Tussilago
10. Odisea - Vaadat Charigim 11. Gypsy - Lady Gaga
12. Legendary Lovers - Katy Perry 13. Total Block - Slowcoaches
14. 101 Vultures - Alex Winston 15. Borders - Honduras
COLOR THEORY PHOTOGRAPHER: NATHAN PASK FASHION DIRECTOR: RACHEL HOLLAND MODEL: BIP LING MAKEUP: HOLLY SILIUS HAIR: MIA PARKER @ WAHL ARTISTS NAILS: MERCEDES @ GLENIS BAPTISTE
JACKET: BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN CUFF: FIONA PAXTON DRESS: BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN EARRINGS: FIONA PAXTON
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DRESS: MADE BOOTIE: UNITED NUDE RING: MAWI
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LEFT BLAZER: IRO T-SHIRT: HELEN STEELE TROUSERS: HELEN STEELE BOOTS: TERRY DE HAVILLAND RIGHT TOP: M MISSONI TROUSERS: M MISSONI
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WHITE LIGHT WHITE HEAT PHOTOGRAPHER: JEMIMA MARRIOTT STYLIST: KATHERINE WHYTE MODEL: ANASTASIA @ NEVS MODELS MAKEUP: ASHLEIGH DORMER HAIR: JAMIE BENNY PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANTS: NADIA RYDER, AMBER EGGLEDEN & SACHA STEVENSON
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LEFT: EAR CUFF: MADE EARRINGS: GOGO PHILLIP TOP: YIRANTIAN GUO SKIRT: YIRANTIAN GUO FAR RIGHT: EARRINGS: GOGO PHILLIP NECKLACE: GOGO PHILLIP JACKET: TOMOKO ONIMARU TROUSERS: ACNE RINGS: STYLIST’S OWN SHOES: STYLIST’S OWN
white light/white heat
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TOP: COAT: NATALIIA KUKHAR BELT: BEYOND RETRO TROUSERS: TOMOKO ONIMARU RIGHT: EARRINGS: GOGO PHILLIP ROLLNECK: JOHN SMEDLEY COAT: MENAI SIAN DAVIES SKIRT: ACNE
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LEFT: EARRINGS: GOGO PHILLIP TOP: DANIELLE ROMERIL @ AVENUE 28 RINGS: STYLIST’S OWN RIGHT: NOSE RING: ASOS JACKETE: HELMUT LANG TOP: TOMOKO ONIMARU SHORTS: DANIELLE ROMERIL @ AVENUE 32 SOCKS: FALKE SHOES: COS
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UNAFRAID
PHOTOGRAPHER: VIC LENTAIGNE STYLIST: KIERA LIBERATI MODEL: BORJA AND CILLIAN @ ELITE LONDON MAKEUP: JENNY GREEN HAIR: JAZZ TOPALUSIC
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UNAFRAID
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UNAFRAID
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UNAFRAID
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UNAFRAID
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CLEAN CUT PHOTOGRAPHER: JASON SADOURIAN STYLIST: YDVANEY DAVIS MODEL: EVE @ ELITE MODEL MANAGEMENT HAIR & MAKE UP: BRENDEN ROBERTSON @ LOVELY
TEE: THIS IS UNIFORM APRON: THIS IS UNIFORM SKIRT: ZARA HAT: J M ESQUIRE SOCKS: WOLFORD SHOES: ASOS
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Clean cut
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DRESS: BEVZA SHIRT: MUI MUI CAPE: BEVZA GLOVES: MUI MUI
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SHIRT: DAY BIRGER ET MIKKELSEN BLAZER: 2ND DAY TROUSERS: DAGMAR
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SHIRT: 2ND DAY COAT: BEVZA TROUSERS: BEVZA
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PHOTOGRAPHER: KAREEM ABDUL STYLIST: LILLY JO CULLEN MAKE UP: TAMASH SHARKAN HAIR: ILSA SIMOES SET DESIGN: BEREKET ABRAHAM MODELS: MASIE & ELLEN BURTIN @ PROFILE MODEL MANAGEMENT
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TOP & FAR RIGHT: TROUSERS: ROKIT SHIRT: ZDDZ RIGHT: JACKET: ZDDZ SHIRT: ZDDZ NECKLACE: KENZA ACCESSORIES
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BLACK au tu mn review
is the new
BLACK CREATIVE DIRECTOR & PHOTOGRAPHER: VANESSA DEZUTTER MODEL: CARMEN LEE HAIR & MAKE UP: SARAH E. MORROW WARDROBE STYLIST: CASSY MEIER VIDEOGRAPHER: ELTON MURZELLO
DRESS: JEAN PAUL GAUTHIER NECKLACE: ALDO BRACELETS: ALDO
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OVERALLS: ZARA BRACELET: URBAN OUTFITTERS SHOES: STEVE MADDEN CHAIN: JCREW NECKLACE: BANG BANG BIJOUX NECKLACE WORN AS HEADBAND: ALDO
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TOP: ICONE PANTIES: H&M NECKLACE: JCREW CUFFS: ALDO SHOES: STEVE MADDEN
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ABOVE JACKET: BODY CHAIN BODY CHAIN: ALDO LEATHER LEGGINGS: URBAN OUTFITTERS
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LEFT JACKET: 3.1 PHILIP LIM SKIRT: ICONE EARRINGS: BANG BANG BIJOUX GARTER BELT & STOCKING: LA SENZA NECKLACE: ALDO BELOW DRESS: AA DE AMAYA ARZUAGA BRACELETS WORN AS ARM CUFFS: ALDO NECKLACE: ALDO EARRINGS: BANG BANG BIJOUX RIGHT DRESS: JEAN PAUL GAULTIER BRACELETS: ALDO NECKLACE: ALDO SHOES: ALDO
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garden dream
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Garden Dream PHOTOGRAPHER: KIMBERLEY LANGSTONE STYLIST: ANDI PETROU MAKE UP: SARA EXALL HAIR: KAT HAND MODELS: ABIGAIL R AND MALOU @ OXYGEN MODELS PHOTOGRAPHERS ASSISTANT: BENJAMIN WILLIAMS STYLISTS ASSISTANT: CHERRELLE DOUGLAS
ABIGAIL: DRESS: FOREVER UNIQUE CHOKER: NEW LOOK RING: STYLISTS OWN
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DRESSES: FOREVER UNIQUE NECKLACE: NEW LOOK
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DRESS: ARIELLA COUTURE
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NECKLACE AND BANGLE: SHO FINE JEWELLERY
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NECKLACE: SHO FINE JEWELLERY
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CAROLINE
FLACK PHOTOGRAPHER: NATHAN PASK FASHION DIRECTOR: RACHEL HOLLAND MAKE-UP ARTIST: GEMMA WHEATCROFT HAIR: TOMOYUKI OTSAKU FROM EARTH SALON NAILS: LAUREN FROM GLENIS BAPTISTE INTERVIEW & WORDS: OLIVIA PINNOCK
What do you think of when you think of Caroline Flack? For me, it’s ombre hair, great legs and scandal. That was until I took a few minutes to speak to her, and now, after a drama-free and relaxed interview, I think of a woman who’s learnt to embrace her curves, whose mum is her biggest style inspiration and who has a penchant for interior design. If there’s one thing you should all think when you hear the name Caroline Flack, it’s that there’s more to her than meets the eye.
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HI, CAROLINE. IF IT’S OK, I WOULD LIKE TO TALK TO YOU ABOUT ALL THINGS FASHION AND BEAUTY AND GET AN IDEA OF WHAT SORT OF GIRL YOU ARE. SO IF YOU COULD START BY DESCRIBING YOUR RELATIONSHIP WITH FASHION... I’ve always been very interested in fashion, from an early age. I’m a twin and so my mum used to dress us in identical clothes and I think now, because of that, I’m always looking for something that’s a bit different. I don’t follow trends as such either; my priority is dressing for my body shape. Sometimes you see people being criticised for sticking to the same style, but if you’ve found a style that works with your shape, then why change it?
DID YOU TAKE A WHILE TO DEVELOP A STYLE THAT WORKS WITH YOUR BODY SHAPE?
Well. my shape has changed! As soon as I’ve hit 30, my curves have become so much more prominent. I’ve always absolutely loved the androgynous look, but the older I get, the more I’m embracing my curves and working with them.
WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR FAVOURITE DESIGNERS AND LABELS?
CAROLINE FLACK
HOW DO YOU COPE WITH THE ADDED PRESSURE OF DRESSING WHEN YOU WORK IN THE PUBLIC EYE? It can be hard, like sometimes I’ll put something on and go out and then I see it in a picture and it looks totally different from how I thought it did! Generally, I try not to think about the media side of it too much. Everything is so focused on body image and appearance and sometimes I just wish I got to talk more about my job! I do have a stylist who helps out for shows, but she’s more like my friend who I go shopping with. We work together on each outfit.
NOW I HAVE TO ASK, THOSE LEGS, HOW DO YOU KEEP THEM IN SUCH GREAT SHAPE?
Everyone always asks about my legs! Whenever I say that they’re not really that great, I just get rolled eyes, but they’re so little! I’m not leggy at all! I think I’m pretty middle-heavy, so I often draw attention to my legs because they’re the smallest part of me, but in terms of working out, I do Pilates. Though not very often, to be honest I’m not a massive fan of exercise! I did used to dance a lot. I did Ballet for years when I was younger. I was definitely a Mila Kunis, not a Natalie Portman though! My Mum has great legs, so maybe it’s genetic?
“...THE OLDER I GET, THE MORE I’M EMBRACING MY CURVES AND WORKING WITH THEM”
It changes all the time, but I have a few that I never get tired of, like Acne T-Shirts and Jumpers, or a classic Burberry trench. I’m a big coat girl! In fact, I just much prefer winter fashion to summer; I love layers and texture. Oh and of course, hats, I love hats -- especially beanies!
WHAT IS YOUR GO-TO ‘I’VE OVER SLEPT AND HAVE TEN MINUTES UNTIL I LEAVE’ OUTFIT?
A shift dress, some ankle boots and a top knot. Quick and easy!
WHO WOULD YOU SAY ARE YOUR REAL LIFE STYLE INSPIRATIONS?
My mum; she used to save all of her dresses for me as I loved them so much. She’s very stylish. In fact, my Mum’s wedding dress is still the most beautiful dress I’ve ever seen. She looked amazing; it was super short and really 60s, a definite Twiggy look! She was also absolutely tiny with bright blonde hair -- she looked amazing.
DO YOU HAVE A REGIMENTED BEAUTY ROUTINE, OR ARE YOU A MAKEUP WIPE BEFORE BED KIND OF GIRL?
I do try and cleanse, tone and moisturise whenever I can. But sometimes, after a late finish or when I’ve got an early call time, a wipe can just be heaven! I know every makeup artist would tell me off and I know they’re bad! I do absolutely love Aesop face oil though and I treat myself to monthly Elemis collagen facials.
DO YOU FOLLOW ANY BLOGS FOR INSPIRATION?
I end up looking at blogs through Twitter, which I use a lot. At the moment, I’m using Pinterest a lot, which I love -- I think it’s amazing. I’ve just bought an old warehouse; it’s this gorgeous, double-height space. Anyway, I’m spending a lot of time looking at interior design things on Pinterest.
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CAROLINE FLACK
“I DON’T FOLLOW TRENDS AS SUCH EITHER; MY PRIORITY IS DRESSING FOR MY BODY SHAPE. SOMETIMES YOU SEE PEOPLE BEING CRITICISED FOR STICKING TO THE SAME STYLE, BUT IF YOU’VE FOUND A STYLE THAT WORKS WITH YOUR SHAPE, THEN WHY CHANGE IT?” SOUNDS LIKE YOUR VERY OWN GRAND DESIGN! MUST BE A BIG TASK?
I IMAGINE YOU’RE PRETTY BUSY, BUT WHEN YOU DO GET SOME DOWN TIME, HOW DO YOU LIKE TO RELAX?
It’s not too bad; it’s not actually that big of a space. But it is gorgeous, with exposed brickwork and amazing features. I’m just working on making it my own. I like everything to be asymmetrical! I absolutely love choosing things like rugs and candles for it. I just bought a beautiful Marni rug to put on my mezzanine, but now I’m like, “Ahh don’t step on my rug,” which is a little silly!
I really love travelling, so being away and on holiday is the best way for me to relax. I love going to the South of France; my dad used to take us all the time when we were younger. When I’m in London, I just feel like it’s non-stop work, so getting away from London is the best way to relax for me -get some country air! Saying that, I do always miss London.
NOW YOU HAVE MET SOME SERIOUS A-LISTERS, HAS THERE BEEN ANYONE WHO HAS JUST LEFT YOU COMPLETELY STAR STRUCK?
Definitely Kylie! I’m a massive fan; I just wanted to get really close to her... maybe I got too close! And even after three years of working with him, Gary Barlow still stuns me! He’s just pretty amazing!
AND, FINALLY, CAN YOU TELL US THE BEST PIECE OF ADVICE YOU’VE EVER BEEN GIVEN?
Yes! I have two: one from my dad, “work hard, play hard and be kind” and then from my mum, “don’t mix your drinks!” Two very important messages!
SO, WITH A FRIENDLY GOODBYE AND A LAST HEARTY CHUCKLE, THE DRY, OPEN AND LOVEABLE CAROLINE IS OFF AND I’M LEFT FEELING LIKE I’VE JUST HAD A CATCH UP WITH ONE OF MY GIRLFRIENDS.
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fashion vs. architecture
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WORDS: OLIVIA PINNOCK The design industries have always had a close relationship to one another; each capturing the cultural zeitgeist and expressing them in their various forms and invariably sharing influences. Few seem as perfectly matched, though, as the bond between fashion and architecture. When the art of working with fluid fabrics crosses paths with the rigid and angular world of buildings, it produces some of the most exciting and cutting-edge results. As we continue into the digital age and a third industrial revolution, this partnership looks set to get even more interesting.
forefront, such as Issey Miyake, who was awarded the Praemium Imperiale Award for Sculpture in 2005. Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo brought their unique origami-like constructions to Paris Fashion Week, bringing a new silhouette that focussed on clothing built around the body, like the framework of a building. Discussion on the relationship between the design industries was also becoming more open around this time. New magazines such as Blueprint brought features on fashion, architecture and interiors together in the same publication, a relatively new concept at the time. In 1982, the Massachusetts Institute of Technology curated an influential exhibition titled ‘Intimate Architecture: Contemporary Clothing Design”. The exhibition, for the first time in fashion history, compared designers using architectural analysis. Eight international names took part in the project: Giorgio Armani, Claude Montana, Gianfranco Ferré, Issey Miyake, Yeohlee Teng, Stephen Manniello, Mariuccia Mandelli and Ronaldus Shamask. The New York Times reported that the participants were “part of a growing international fraternity informally known as the architects of fashion. All are joined by a similar design vocabulary: a propensity for minimalist designs and cerebral tailoring and an aversion to surface decoration.”
References to architecture in fashion can be traced back
At the same time, References to the digital revolution centuries with the likes of hoop skirts and the introduction of architecture in fashion was rapidly changing can be traced back bone corsetry but it wasn’t until the early 20th century that things, including centuries with the likes the possibilities for it was observed and talked about. In the immortal words of Coco of hoop skirts and the designers. Computer introduction of bone Chanel “Fashion is architecture, it is a matter of proportion.” In design software and corsetry, but it wasn’t advances in materials the 1930s Vogue heralded this attitude as a new era for fashion, until the early 20th allowed fashion century that it was “The era of the dressmaker, all bits and pieces and complicated designers to not just observed and talked liken their designs to seaming, gives place to that of the mathematician and architect about. In the immortal architectural styles words of Coco Chanel, but to actually adopt “Fashion is architecture, it is a matter of proportion.” techniques from architects, including cantilever (a long In the 1930s, Vogue heralded this attitude as a new era bar supported only at one end) and suspension. It is for fashion, calling it “The era of the dressmaker, all bits hard to imagine what the work of the “mad professor” and pieces and complicated seaming, gives place to that of fashion Hussein Chalayan would look like without of the mathematician and architect.” Few designers such developments in the industry. The Turkish-born, of the time grasped this understanding better than London-based designer, who considered a career in celebrated American couturier Charles James (1906 – architecture before turning his hand to fashion, created 1978). James pioneered a technical approach to fashion a historic fashion moment with his wooden coffee with structural details and advanced cutting patterns table dress in his autumn/winter 2000 collection. The which were seen in his unique and highly-coveted ball catwalk show centred around a 1950’s-style living gowns which were the benchmark for eveningwear in room which at the finale soon became more than just the 1930s, 1940s and 1950s. a set. Models stripped the armchairs of their identical covers and folded them out and dressed themselves Fast forward to the 1980s and the influx of Japanese into four different dresses and the chair frames fashion pushed forward progressive ideas of garment were folded into suitcases. A final model arrived and construction yet again. Japanese designers came to the removed the centre of the coffee table, stepped into it
83 and folded it out and up her body, hooking it onto her belt as a skirt. It became one of the most talked about moments of his career.
fashion vs architecture belt, she has proved that a great design mind can be expressed in many ways.
As an industry, architecture is about constantly trying to Today, haute couture designers such as Iris van burst out of its confines to create something incredible. Herpen represent the new generation of avant-garde From the world’s tallest manmade structure, the Burj architects of fashion. Early on in her career, the Dutch Kalifa in Dubai (2010), to the Sharp Centre for Design designer collaborated with architectural firm Benthem in Toronto (2004), supported on slender concrete Crouwel to create a collection titled ‘Crystallization,’ stilts appearing suspended in the air, to the Gherkin in inspired by their extension on the Stedelijk Museum. London which has gaps between each floor to create The extension was nicknamed ‘The Bathtub’ and van an energy-efficient double-glazing effect, architecture Herpen’s collection featured incredible structures is a fast paced art form. This is something fashion could around the models to look as though they had just been learn from. There are a limited number of designers splashed with water. who seek to innovate She also created a 3D the industry, but as At the same time the digital revolution was rapidly changing print with Londonthe world changes at a based architect rate faster than ever, it things, including the possibilities for designers. Computer design Daniel Widrig for should be fashion’s job software and advances in materials allowed fashion designers the collection. to reflect that and to be Now a regular part of the force pushing to not just liken their designs to architectural styles but to at Paris Couture it forward. As we find actually adopt techniques from architects including cantilever (a Fashion Week, she ourselves on the dawn has returned to of exciting changes long bar supported only at one end) and suspension these architectural such as 3D printing, influences and which will undoubtedly collaborations time and time again. In July 2012, she revolutionise the design world, it seems likely that presented “Hybrid Holism”, a collection inspired by the fashion and architecture will only be moving closer work of Canadian architect and artist Philip Beasley, together. who took the philosophy of Hylozoism, which believes that all matter is alive, and created an architectural Today we see the evidence of this special relationship space which honours this. Van Herpen did the same, expressed in new ways each season and Autumn/ creating garments designed to be cherished forever Winter ‘13 was no exception. It was there in London and adaptable in their form. The Pythagoras Tree wunderkind Christopher Kane’s geometric squaredress, a stunning nude tutu-like dress made from semi- overlay dresses and in hip Australians Sass & Bide’s translucent plastic leaf shapes, is another 3D print in armour-like, metallic pieces which they describe as the collection, developed with architect Julia Koerner. “a collection of opposites, about transformation and counterbalance.” BCBG Max Azria made an unusual It’s not just the couturiers who play with architectural pairing of the 90s grunge aesthetic that has dominated concepts, though. There could only be one shoe label the catwalks for several seasons with prints inspired avant-garde enough to be chosen by van Herpen to by the mosaic tiles of Istanbul’s architecture. dress the feet of her models: United Nude. The brand is the brainchild of shoemaker Galahad Clark and The new breed of ‘sports couture’ that was spotted architect Rem D Koolhaas, whose aim is to create at Kenzo, Alexander Wang and Lacoste, to name a architecture that is downscaled “to its smallest and few, sees an update this season of the en vogue baggy most vulnerable scale”. As well as collaborations with sportswear with voluminous, rounded shoulders, cutting edge fashion designers such as van Herpen funnel necks and asymmetric crossovers. It’s as though and Mattijs van Bergen, they’ve also created ranges scaffolding has been inserted into the oversized look -- a with top architects like Zaha Hadid. These shoes are look that feels fresh and current. not merely designed; they are engineered to create almost impossible-looking constructions that push the That’s the beauty of architecture in fashion; the boundaries of what a shoe can be. relationship may be nothing new, but the constant changes and developments of both industries means Hadid’s fashion portfolio is almost as admirable as her that whenever they collide, it’s always different, edgy architectural one. With the Icone bag for Louis Vuitton, and exciting. the Glace jewellery collection for Swarovski and further shoe designs for Melissa and Lacoste under her
#RADAR
XO NO. 20 THE DESIGN ISSUE
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au tu mn review
AS WE HEAD INTO A NEW SEASON, WE’VE GOT SOME NEW DESIGNERS ON OUR #RADAR WHO ARE NOT ONLY RECEIVING TOP RECOGNITION, BUT ARE BANG ON TREND WITH THE INDUSTRY. PRINTS ARE DEFINITELY HAVING A MOMENT. IN RESPONSE TO THE FUTURISTIC LOOKS THAT HAVE BEEN MADE POSSIBLE WITH DIGITAL PRINTING, MANY DESIGNERS ARE GOING BACK TO BASICS AND TURNING THEIR ARTWORK INTO BEAUTIFUL PRINTED FABRICS. WE PICK SOME OF THE BEST NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK WHO ARE BRINGING THE RESURGENCE OF TRULY ORIGINAL, ART-BASED PRINTS.
HOLLY FOWLER This London-based designer stood out from the budding talent at the 2011 Central Saint Martins graduate show for Browns, the London boutique infamous for launching the careers of young designers, who promptly bought the entire collection. You’ll understand why when you see that each garment features a beautiful hand-painted illustration that wraps around the body. Animals and nature are common themes, as well as jewels and painted embellishment, making for rather grand pieces -- pieces fit for a princess. It all makes sense when you discover the muse for the label, Princess Pamela, a fictional fairytale princess based on Holly’s grandmother as a child. Each collection follows Princess Pamela on a new adventure full of fantasy and romanticism. Proving that Holly has international potential, her Spring/Summer ‘13 collection was picked up by Capital in North Carolina and American department store giant, Bergdorf Goodman.
This season, Holly has created exclusive pieces for both Browns and Bergdorf Goodman and her first range of accessories, handpainted leather box clutches and charming slipper shoes in collaboration with Claire Davis. We’re excited for the next chapter of adventures with Holly and Princess Pamela.
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HAYLEY SCANLAN With celebrity fans that include Marina Diamandis, Jessie J and Stooshe, we’re selfprofessed fans of Hayley Scanlon’s edgy, attitude-filled designs too. Her popularity with celebrities started at her graduate show at Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art and Design when supermodel Erin O’Connor snapped up a studded leather jacket from the collection. In 2011, two years after graduating, Dundee-born Hayley set up her own label, which won the Young Designer of the Year Award at the Scottish Fashion Awards the following year. With a passion for creating her own prints, she learned from one of the best when she interned at Jeremy Scott. For Autumn/ Winter ’13, she has created graphic zig-zags contrasting against black and white check. Off-centre zips, laced sleeves and backs, and high-shine skirts make this collection one of her edgiest yet. In an interview with The Cut magazine last year, Hayley said, “I want it to be about the detail and the embellishment, and then I keep the silhouettes really simple so that [the print] does all the talking for you.” We’ll be getting our hands on a taste of the real deal from her diffusion line, HS, which has just landed at Topshop’s Oxford Street flagship.
ANGELYS BALEK Thai designer Angie Balek founded her label in 2010 with her sister Ashley and childhood friend Jenista Prem after an international education which saw her study Fine Art at Bangkok University before turning her hand to fashion at London College of Fashion and Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. Now she’s a firm favourite with America’s hip and beautiful, including “Pretty Little Liars” star Lucy Hale, who wore one of Angie’s designs to host the Teen Choice Awards this summer. Angelys Balek has also been shortlisted for the 2013 WGSN Global Fashion Awards Emerging Fashion Brand category. Arty, kooky and always with a sense of fun, her collections are epitomised by youthful styles and quirky prints. For Autumn/ Winter ‘14, she has been inspired by Tim Burton’s surrealist film Beetlejuice, taking a more sombre palette than her usual cartoon brights, with leaf prints, stripes and unsettling waves. “I want to empower women of all ages to celebrate their individualism and self-expression while allowing them to chase their dreams with an ever young and curious imagination,” Angie told Elle USA in an interview earlier this year.
We’ll be first on the wait list for her impending swimwear and footwear range and we’re crossing our fingers for her at the WGSN Global Fashion Awards, which take place on 30 October.
#radar
XO NO. 20 THE DESIGN ISSUE
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au tu mn review
XO LISTEN
CULTS - STATIC
LADY GAGA - ARTPOP
SLEIGH BELLS - BITTER RIVALS
M.I.A - MATANGI
COMMON COURTESY - A DAY TO REMEMBER
CUPID DELUXE - BLOOD ORANGE
we Heart
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WE HEART 2 1 3
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1. THE HUNGER GAMES: CATCHING FIRE 2. MEADHAM KIRCHOFF X TOPSHOP 3. IPAD AIR 4. ASOS BLACK HOLIDAY DRESSES 5. TROPICO BY LANA DEL RAY
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THE design ISSUE N020 autumn review 2013