SELF-ACCOUNTABILITY IN CR PRACTICE CHEMICALS MANAGEMENT
A number of multi-stakeholder collaborations have formed to address challenges in the textiles supply chain. Among the most influential are the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) and the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) group. Both of these bodies recognized the need to engage the full supply chain, with Huntsman Textile Effects as a founding member of SAC and a key contributor to the ZDHC Joint Roadmap. The recent publication of the ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) is a huge step forward for the industry. It sets limits on the permissible concentrations of a range of substances in commercial products supplied into the textile chain. Crucially, this indicates a shift in focus in chemicals management: from managing outputs to managing inputs. If all brands were to adopt the ZDHC list as their MRSL, we could bring consistency and simplicity to an industry that requires mills and brands to satisfy a huge variety of chemical standards and certification schemes. To promote this, Huntsman Textile Effects has now released a list of dyes and chemicals that can be safely used to manufacture textiles for ZDHC-signatory companies. • The role of the chemicals supplier The limits in the MRSL are challenging yet manageable. Reputable suppliers will be capable of supplying products within the specified limits. However, to avoid inflicting new testing regimes on the supply chain, the system is based on self-declaration. Chemical manufacturers therefore need to have programmes in place to demonstrate their commitments and capabilities. • The role of the fabric mill Mills need to select chemical suppliers that are truly committed to supporting them, as their reputation and that of the brands they supply are hugely exposed and closely scrutinized in this area. As a minimum, mills should seek declarations from each supplier regarding the suitability of their products. Consideration should also be given to formalizing these into supply agreements. • The role of the brand We cannot overstate the power of a harmonized and simplified approach to chemicals management to transform this industry. The ZDHC MRSL represents a great opportunity, but brands can also protect their reputation and the
industry by choosing to do business with mills that are engaged with improving their capabilities in chemicals management. Bold statements set the framework, but commercial reality is what will truly deliver results. The future We now have a chance to unite around a common goal for chemicals management in the sporting goods industry. With SAC and ZDHC collaborating more closely, this is certainly possible. Such a goal would help us avoid expending our energy in chasing results that get us no further. We can refuse to hobble our team with players that lack the most basic of skills. And we will move ever closer to the cleaner supply chain that the public and the planet deserve.
ZDHC MRSL
Chemicals
BRAND RSL
Chemicals in Product
Input Controls FABRIC PROCESSING MILLS
Processes
Output Controls Effluent Treatment Plant
Chemicals in textile supply chain: This chart shows the fabric processing mills where chemicals enter the textile supply chain. Traditionally, chemicals in product (garments) have been managed via Brand RSL’s. The ZDHC MRSL moves the focus to the input chemicals to try to prevent unwanted substances from ever entering the supply chain. As the limits in the ZDHC MRSL are lower than legal requirements, the system will need to rely on self declarations from chemical suppliers. Therefore, the mills need to assess their suppliers very carefully. Responsible chemical suppliers need to be able to demonstrate their commitments and capabilities. Chemicals must be considered together with the processes in which they are used to make sure they are used efficiently and effectively.
Peter Gregory was born in England and is a Chartered Colourist and has received the President’s Diploma of Honour from the Society of Dyers and Colourists. He also has a Masters degree in Chemistry from the University of Salford and a Management Diploma from the Open University in the UK. Before leading the Technology and Project Management group, Mr. Gregory was a Marketing Director at Textile Effects. Prior to this role, he also took on a variety of technical, marketing, product management and sales roles based in the UK.
WFSGI MAGAZINE 2015
31