The Wyoming Whiskey Barons Written by Nels Wroe Photography by Luc Nadeau he main character in Owen
a light jacket. While no one would envi-
Wister’s famous western novel
sion him atop a saddle driving cattle, he
The Virginian has found a new
would glide effortlessly into a drift boat on
incarnation. Steve Nally, Mas-
the Big Horn River with a fly rod in hand.
ter Distiller at Wyoming Whiskey saunters
“We’re both in good hands with Steve,” he
over to greet us, boots crunching in the
grins. “A lot of what I do here comes down
gravel parking lot. A tall, lanky southern
to luck, where everything Steve does is all
gentleman, Nally is both at odds with and
about experience.”
at home among the red rock hills of cen-
tral Wyoming. Like Wister’s iconic charac-
earlier this morning in Thermopolis,
ter, he harkens from the south – Nally is a
Wyoming, approximately 15 miles south
native Kentuckian – but has chiseled out
of the distillery. DeFazio suggested we
a home for himself in the hard Wyoming
meet at the Black Bear Café, an easy sell
landscape just outside Thermopolis.
given his advice that it is one of the few
He is disarming at first, his quiet
places in Hot Springs County where you
southern drawl sometimes hard to hear
can get a good cup of coffee. He was al-
amidst the noise coming from the distill-
ready at the counter when I arrived, deft-
ery operations in the background. Nally
ly jumping from one conversation to the
has been in Wyoming for almost five
next as the patrons and staff greeted him
years, lured out of retirement from the
with smiles, hugs or handshakes at every
helm of the still at Maker’s Mark by Da-
break in the conversation. Almost without
vid Defazio, the COO of Wyoming Whis-
asking, large cups of piping hot coffee ap-
key. But despite the change in venue, this
peared along with our breakfast to go in
charming Southerner is clearly in his el-
hefty containers.
ement. “It’s a pleasure to meet you,” he
says with a firm handshake. “Welcome to
Ozzy, out of the back seat for a pit stop
Wyoming Whiskey.”
before we head north on State Highway
The Wyoming Whiskey tour began
DeFazio briefly lets his coal-black lab,
Defazio is also a transplant, relocating
20 towards Kirby. Kirby is a small town of
in the mid-1990’s from New York to Jack-
no more than 75 full-time residents, nes-
son Hole, Wyoming. He is the New West in
tled along a bend in the Big Horn River.
every aspect, effortlessly achieving what
Before Wyoming Whiskey arrived, Kir-
most first-generation westerners strive for
by was known as the home to Butch’s
but never achieve – full acceptance into
Place, a favorite spot to belly up to the
the Wyoming family. He’s wearing a new
bar and enjoy solid, home-cooked burg-
classic – a western snap shirt re-imag-
ers and steaks. Not much has changed –
ined for the modern era – blue jeans and
Butch’s Place still serves up mighty fine
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