Word Vietnam August 2015 by Word Vietnam

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 8 AUTHOR: BAO ROSS and NICK ROSS

THẾ GIỚI PUBLISHERS

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Contents Aug. 2015

054

044 THE TALK

INSIDER

010 / In Wedded Bliss

44 / The Big Wet

Marriage just got easier

011 / The Big Five

Events to look out for this month

082

Almost everything you need to know about the tropical rains… Almost

50 / Australia's Cash Cow

BRIEFINGS

Vietnam’s obsession with red meat and the Australian beef industry

12 / The Run For Peace

54 / S**rts

The Danang Marathon is more than just a race

18 / Heart Reach Australia 20 years of helping the disadvantaged in Vietnam

24 / Building of the Month

The apartment block on Nguyen Sieu

024

94 / Street Snacker Hanoi On the menu: Bun Bo Nam Bo

96 / Mystery Diner HCMC

The MAD House gets our reviewer’s thumbs up

98 / Street Snacker HCMC

In search of Saigon’s iconic hu tieu stand

Time to get physical

82 / The Gecko's Revenge

Paintballing with the Saigon Rugby Club

86 / The Ballerina

Beauty through a mirror

EAT & DRINK 92 / Top Eats: Papa Roma

Food Street gets pizza by the slice

098

Contents Aug. 2015

100

106

114

TRAVEL

138 / City Map

146 / Amazing Grapes

100 / Croatia

HCMC

150 / A World of Good

026 / To-Do List

164 / The Empty Wok

032 / Overscene

168 / Tieng Viet

140 / HCMC City Guide

FINAL SAY

156 / Coffee Cup

172 / The Inside Story of the Guerrilla War

A boat trip down the Dalmatian Coast

106 / Routefinder Seeing Vietnam on a bicycle

114 / The Motorbike Diaries Part 5: This is ‘Burma’

118 / Travel Promos HANOI 034 / To-Do List

158 / Bar Stool 160 / Top Eats 166 / City Map

040 / Overscene

COLUMNS 110 / The Alchemist

119 / Hanoi City Guide

132 / The Therapist

125 / Bar Stool

136 / Medical Buff

126 / Coffee Cup

137 / Book Buff

130 / Top Eats

142 / Business Buff

134 / Food Promos

144 / Body and Temple

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Chapter 11: In the Western Highlands

178 / The Honda Cub Rises

Nostradamus comes back to haunt us…

172

CONTRIBUTORS

As the topic of this month’s issue is sports, we decided to ask the following question: What is the weirdest sport you’ve ever played? JON ASPIN Staff Writer Apart from cricket in Sweden, as kids we spent days on end playing a Commodore 64 game called Hounded. It was like an early form of Fantasy Football Manager, except we raced dogs, and the graphics were cr*p. VU BAO KHANH Photographer We have a game similar to drag racing. I am on a Cub, the other guy is on a Simson. Both bikes are 50cc, we all wear protection gear like real racers. Vroommmm! MARK ALLAN Website Developer A game called Salad-A-Kick. It’s soccer without a goal. You have a designated base, and there are times when there are up to 60 players on the field. The aim is to kick the ball through other people’s legs. If the ball goes through a player’s legs they have to run to the base and touch it. The problem is getting back to base…

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EDITORIAL NICK ROSS Chief Editor editor@wordvietnam.com

VU HA KIM VY Editorial Manager vy@wordvietnam.com

MADS MONSEN Creative Director mads@wordvietnam.com

NIKO SAVVAS Online Editor niko@wordvietnam.com

KYLE PHANROY Photo Editor kyle@wordvietnam.com

JULIE VOLA Staff Photographer julie@wordvietnam.com

FRANCIS XAVIER Staff Reporter francis.xavier@wordvietnam.com

JON ASPIN Staff Writer jon@wordvietnam.com

MARK ALLAN Website & Graphic Designer mark@wordvietnam.com

NGUYEN LOC Layout Designer loc@wordvietnam.com

ADMINISTRATION

NIKO SAVVAS Online Editor Rochambeau, the game where two dudes knee each other in the balls until one of them collapses. I never lost. VU HA KIM VY Editorial Manager Not sure if it’s a sport, but I have tried beer pong twice and I want to play it more! NICK ROSS Chief Editor Has to be murder ball. It’s so primeval I reckon it predates rugby. There are no rules. No teams. All you have to do is be the person to place the ball on the square in the middle of the playing field. It’s a violent free for all — I lost a tooth when I last played. DAVID MANN Contributor / Former Staff Editor Drunk bocce, or Italian lawn bowls. The team that is furthest away from the pallino (small white ball) has to chug a drink for each extra inch. The game without drinking is great, but adding booze makes it even better. For maximum enjoyment, play with actual Italians.

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For advertising enquiries please call Ms Trinh on +84 938 609 689 or Ms Giang on +84 934 640 668 Special thanks to Huyen Tran, Dana McNairn, Karen Gay, Douglas Holwerda, Truong from Bookworm, Riccha Arora, Phil Kelly, Shane Dillon, George Burchett, Noey Neumark, Matt Dworzanczyk, Natalia Martinez, Jill Kester, Bao Zoan, Ben Rubin, Diana Truong, Vu Bao Khanh, Meatworks, David Mann, The Republic, The Saigon Geckos, Paintball Saigon, Nguyen Le, Devin Monaghan, Le Hoang, Camilla Blom, Tran Trung Thinh, Mai Van Khoa, Fox Fitness Club, Kyanh Tran, Vi Pham, Jesse Meadows, To Thu Phuong, Dr. Philippe Collin, Jim Cawood, Sandee Woodside and Dara O Foghlu

VI PHAM Contributor The hoomin’ chicken battle for sure! There are two people on a team and one person has to piggyback the other teammate, jumping on one leg, constantly shouting “cookooo, coookooo” while keeping the other leg off the ground. Each pair knees against the other pair and whoever puts both legs on the ground first loses the battle.

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CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH & ẨM THỰC ISBN: 978-604-77-1595-4

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Prelude

o matter how much order we try to place on it, life is necessarily temporary, its players transient, its meaning fleeting. Such is the case with two members of Word staff who this month are moving onto, we hope, bigger and better things. First is Ed Weinberg, who spent three years with our humble

publication. He rose through the ranks from freelancer to staff writer, then deputy editor and finally managing editor, before deciding it was time to move on. Ed made a genuine difference to what and who we are. Coming in at a time of crisis, he helped steady the ship and played a large role in building a new one. He also spent many a late night doing last minute changes to the mag. Ed, thank you for your work! Also flying off to foreign climes is

our online editor and controversial features writer, Niko Savvas. Sometimes Vietnam is good to its adopted residents, and sometimes it isn’t. Niko has fallen out of love with this country, so is off to seek new experiences elsewhere. We will miss his wit, his sarcasm and his Facebook and Twitter posts. He gave us a much needed voice. And finally, our longest serving member of staff, Vu Ha Kim Vy, is doing the opposite of leaving

— she already tried that one and ended up coming back. She is moving up to a new role, editorial manager. Which means with people departed and others staying, we are changing the structure of our editorial department. Thank you everyone for your support. Without you, and without the amazing staff we’ve had over the years, this would never have been possible. Eight years and counting! — Nick Ross, Chief Editor

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The

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 8 AUTHOR: BAO ROSS and NICK ROSS

THIS MONTH'S COVER Antoine and Phil from the Saigon Geckos. Photo by Francis Xavier. Design by DH Advertising

Have Your Say Do you have any comments? Then let us know on Facebook — facebook.com/word.vietnam — or via Twitter, @wordvietnam. No matter how positive or negative your thoughts, we look forward to hearing from you.

Inbox

Talk Lead Now You Can Buy

is going to buy a house here? Do you have (page 10, July 2015) Now You Can Buy Good article. But there was You can’t even get a visa these any comments one thing you missed. You can days. — DL T that you would buy a property here, but you 50 year leases don’t make sense. can’t sell a house if you have a like to air? If mortgage on it. You have to own Buy a house in Europe and you’re looking at a minimum it outright. — RR so, reach out of 70 years. Anything below becomes a problem. — AP and touch us What a load of xxxx. You really think anyone in their right mind at editor@ wordvietnam. A Nod for Niko com — we’re at I know some people have found Niko Savvas’s writing offensive, but a lot of others really love it. It’s made for some your fingertips. good conversation. Controversial is good. — JK THE TALK

LEAD ARTICLE

From Jul. 1, foreigners can buy property in Vietnam. Here are the caveats

here’s big news on the “Are we really welcome here?” front this month: foreigners can now buy real estate. Over the years, we have bemoaned the fact that the vast majority of non-Vietnamese (except for naturalised Viet Kieu and a few other exceptions) cannot purchase houses or apartments in this country. From this month it all changes. So excited are the real estate companies that the emails have been flying out. One we received read as follows: From the new laws, foreigners will have the biggest opportunity to possess real estate assets in Vietnam, both to live and to invest. We would like to suggest some attractive projects: Sala (District 2), Villa Park (District 9) and in particular Vinhomes Central Park (Binh Thanh, which will be merged into District 1 in the future).

A Step Back

We first picked up on the new law in December. Here’s an excerpt of what we wrote — the piece was published on wordvietnam.com. **********

According to the new amended housing law,

non-Vietnamese citizens will be able to own the property for a maximum of 50 years and enjoy the same rights to lease, transfer or sell the property as Vietnamese citizens. The law will also extend the rules that currently apply only to apartments. Now, foreign individuals and entities will be allowed to buy, receive or inherit apartments and houses in commercial projects, although not in areas that limit or ban foreigners. They will be able to buy a maximum of 30 percent of apartments in a block and 250 houses in a given ward. Individual foreigners will be able to extend their home ownership after 50 years, according to their need, and they may lease their property for any “purpose that is not banned by law”. However, foreign property owners will also be subject to Vietnam’s property taxes. The change is expected to give a well-needed boost to Vietnam’s real estate market. Although according to the Savills Property Price Index, residential real estate prices have stabilised over the past 12 months — in Hanoi they are only 2 percent above their level in the first quarter of 2009; in Ho Chi Minh City, prices are still 10 percent down on what they were five years ago. At the same time, restrictions — particularly the ‘commercial project’ restriction — means that foreigners still cannot freely buy property in Vietnam.

******** When this article was re-posted on social media in May, the naysayers stepped in and got negative. They missed the wider ramifications of opening up the property market to foreigners. With the imposition of restrictions — leasehold purchase only, a maximum amount of properties per ward or apartment building — Vietnam is protecting itself from the rampant capitalism of the West. In the UK, for example, anyone can buy property, regardless of nationality. There are no restrictions. With swathes of nonBritish investing in bricks and mortar in London, this has led to a house price boom in the country’s capital. The premium paid for living in London is now so high that a property there costs between five and seven times as much as its equivalent in Birmingham, the country’s second-largest city. By having their hands on the reins, Vietnam will avoid this. They will also avoid something else they dread — the loss of land to foreigners. What is clear is that this law change does offer an opportunity. But with foreigners encountering increasing issues with visas and work permits, it is unclear how many will bite. — Nick Ross

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That writer of yours Niko Savvas has made your mag a lot ruder over the past months. It’s more entertaining, too. — MW I think Niko Savvas’s writing is very amusing, the more so because many people just don’t get it. What is it he uses all the time? ‘Your correspondent’. Even that’s been a source of comment. Classic! — NJ Am I the only one who had an out loud laugh at this [Vietnamese Food Isn’t That Great, May 2015]? Loved the article!!! Maybe sarcasm hasn’t begun yet in Vietnam? Keep it up!! — LS

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Talk Lead

ILLUSTRATION BY BEN RUBIN

THE TALK

LEAD ARTICLE

In Wedded Bliss Mixed nationality couples marrying in Vietnam may no longer need an interview

magine you lived in a poor rural area in a ‘poor’ country. And now imagine that many of the young women around you are being ‘snapped up’ by foreign husbands, husbands that whisk them overseas in return for a payment to both an agency and the family of the bride. No doubt you would feel pretty upset. Cambodia’s answer to these ‘sham’ marriages was a 2011 edict banning foreign men over the age of 50 from taking Cambodian brides (the ban was only for men, not for women). In addition, foreign men eligible to marry a Cambodian woman had to prove their salary was above US$2,250 (VND49 million) a month. The reason, said one official in ABC News, was to prevent “fake marriages and human trafficking”. At the time human rights groups had documented instances where Cambodian women were sent into prostitution or “used as slaves” in their husband’s home country. Vietnam’s answer was less controversial. Applicants for a mixed nationality marriage now needed to sit an interview to “ensure that they are getting married voluntarily” and to assess their language ability “for

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the purposes of communication and mutual understanding”. Unfortunately the interview process has been open to “misconduct”. And according to an article in Thanh Nien, it has “yet to prove effective in preventing marriage frauds”. As a result, a proposal is being tabled to scrap the interview process from Jan. 1, 2016.

True Love Marriage has always proved a bane for officials charged with issuing green cards (work permits) and visas. If you wish to apply for a spouse visa to go to the UK, for example, you have to prove that your marriage is genuine. Photos, Facebook posts, rings, wedding images, emails and bank statements — all have to be offered up in evidence. You have to sit an interview and even then, with all the supporting documents in order, the spouse is not guaranteed their visa. Should the age difference between husband and wife, for example, be deemed to be too large, then it’s possible the application might be turned down. And this is despite the couple being legally married. This scenario has occurred countless times with mixed

nationality couples living in Vietnam. And by international standards, the British authorities are lenient. Other countries take a much stricter line. Vietnam is in part far easier in this respect: being married to a Vietnamese national entitles the nonVietnamese spouse to visa-free entry to this country. The powers that be should be commended for making this process so easy. However, visa-free entry only goes so far: it doesn’t entitle the foreign spouse to work here. Unfortunately, it is most often the foreign partner in the marriage who is the main breadwinner for a mixed nationality family in this country. The lack of 2+2=4 makes them jump through the work permit hoop, a complex process at the best of times. Marriage between couples of different nationalities is difficult on many levels, not just the official one, and the moves to prevent ‘sham’ marriages are worthy. However, when they are proven to be genuine, the non-Vietnamese partner should have a far easier path to gaining working status. After all, the ability to support one’s family is not just a necessity, it’s a right. — Nick Ross

Big5 The

Visa-free entry to Vietnam, European football clubs, live music and a worldrenowned DJ

Z is for Zedd

Rach Chiec Golf Driving Range, Q2, HCMC Friday Aug. 7

The only ‘Zedd’ we know is dead, but by all accounts there’s another one, and he’s a multi-platinum selling, Grammy award winning artist, DJ and producer. And he’s coming to town. Playing at the unlikely venue of a golf driving range, Zedd’s visit is part of his True Colors Asia tour, stopping off in ‘Nam before he heads further afield to The Phillippines, Thailand and Japan. With pop genius electro trance hits like Beautiful Now, we’re confident this will be a big one. Standard tickets to the True Colors Zone are VND550,000 with additional premiums being charged for tickets to the VIP area. For more information click on zeddhcmc.com

1. DJ Zedd, not just a pretty boy 2. London underground DJ, Chamboche, is to play at Observatory 3. Last year’s Danang Marathon 4. Peabo Bryson is to perform in Vietnam next month

8m2

Goethe-Institut Hanoi, Ba Dinh, Hanoi From Thursday Aug. 13

Acclaimed artist Nguyen The Son will be bringing his photo installation, 8m2, to the GoetheInstitut Hanoi this month. A visual exploration of the living environment of Vietnam’s migration workers, 8m2 refers to the minimum living space requirement in pre-Doi Moi Vietnam. Says the artist: “After half a century of struggling, many people still have to toss and turn in that 8m2, but it is not 8m2 for just one person, at times it is for up to eight people.” For more information turn to page 34

Chamboche The Observatory, Q4, HCMC Friday Aug. 14

The Observatory always has a great roster of both local and overseas acts gracing its decks — the venue was recently voted one of the top five clubs in Asia. However, the standout this month is London-based DJ, Chamboche. Bringing his powerful arsenal of house and techno to Vietnam, Chamboche’s underground electronic releases have been manipulating dance floors for the better part of a decade. Come ready to dance. Doors are at 10pm and entrance is free before midnight (VND150,000 after). Support comes from Ben Start (UK). The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC or online at facebook.com/theobservatoryhcmc

With three races on offer — the full marathon, half marathon and a 5km fun run — there’s still time to enter. Simply click on rundanang.com. And for the real beef, turn to our article on the marathon on page 12.

Peabo Bryson

Vietnam National Convention Centre, Hanoi, Sep. 12 Hoa Binh Theatre, HCMC, Sep. 18

The Danang Marathon Around Danang Sunday Aug. 30

PHOTO PROVIDED BY PULSE ACTIVE

The first internationally-certified marathon in Vietnam, last year the Danang International Marathon had 3,500 runners including 400 professionals. This year, themed as The Run for Peace in memory of the 40 years that have passed since the end of the war, they hope to surpass the 5,000 mark.

4 Two-time Grammy Award winner, American singer-songwriter Peabo Bryson will visit Vietnam in September to perform in the show, In The Spotlight, which will travel to both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City in September. Performing his repertoire of hits from a career that has spanned four decades, 64-year-old Peabo is known as ‘The King of Balladeers’ and is famous for hits like Can You Stop the Rain. All meaning that his September shows are perfectly timed. To see Peabo, get your tickets in early by clicking on ticketbox.vn/event/ peabo-bryson-31232

wordvietnam.com | August 2015 Word | 11

Briefings A Danang

t mile 20, Dennis Zaborac collapsed into an empty chair at a busy outdoor café. Sunburnt, blistered, fatigued and dehydrated, he found himself surrounded by a few local young men welcoming him with beers. When he arrived in Danang for the first time in 42 years to run the inaugural Danang International Marathon, he had wanted to withhold the information that he was American and that he had served here in the war. But these young men were inquisitive. And Zaborac didn’t have the heart to be untruthful. Stationed for a year at Cua Dai River just near Hoi An, when Zaborac was sent home abruptly after the war ended, he felt like he had left some unfinished business behind in Vietnam. Four decades later, he returned to Danang to run the marathon and to resolve the incompleteness he felt from his previous journey to this once war-torn country. Sitting at the café with beers in hand, the local men asked Zaborac two very telling questions. “Where are you from?” And, “Is this your first trip to Vietnam?” As he vaguely shared his previous experience in their country, Zaborac’s audience felt his obvious discomfort. The young men tried to reassure him that they felt no animosity towards him. When Zaborac finally looked up and maintained eye contact with one young man, all he saw were kindness and sincerity. In that instant, a bond was created that linked two countries and spanned four decades. Zaborac spent the next 20 minutes chatting with his new friends, and when he finally got up to run the last six miles, he felt ready and rejuvenated. As he set his sights towards the finish line, he didn’t feel like he was entering enemy territory. Instead, he felt a unique camaraderie that exists when you collectively survive running 26.2 miles in the humid Vietnam heat. To his surprise, Zaborac’s new friends from mile 20 were there cheering him on as he crossed the finish line. 42 years after he had left so suddenly, Zaborac found closure. He found acceptance. He found absolution. But most importantly, on his short beer break at mile 20, he finally understood something about Vietnamese people, more so than in the year he had spent fighting them.

More than just a Marathon This year, the theme for the Danang International Marathon is Run for Peace. Celebrating 40 years of peace in Vietnam, the organisers predict 5,000 amateur runners and 1,500 professional marathoners. Last year, 3,500 runners and 400 professional runners participated from 25 different countries and territories. The Danang International Marathon is the first IAAF-AIMS (International Association of Athletics Federations and Association of International Marathons and Distance Races) certified run in Vietnam. — Diana Truong

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The Run for Peace One man’s story. Thousands of people’s marathon

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY PULSE ACTIVE

Race Information D ATE : Aug. 30, 2015 T IME : 4am to 11am C OURSES : Runners can sign up for

three distances â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the full marathon, half marathon and a 5km fun run F EES : From VND210,000 to VND2,300,000 H OTLINE : 0919 327323 E MAIL : info@pulse.vn W EBSITE : rundanang.com

wordvietnam.com | August 2015 Word | 13

Startup

of the

Month Hanoi

Rockin’ it with Rockit

English language education, but not as you know it

earning in a classroom is so out of date. So proclaims Hien Dao, the founder and CEO of Rockit Online, a technology startup that challenges the traditional classroom model. Dao grew up in Hanoi but pursued her graduate education in the United States. Now back in Vietnam, she works to provide for others the guidance and education she was grateful to receive when growing up. After successfully launching Golden Path Academics, an education company that offers college counselling and skills training to prepare Vietnamese students to study abroad, Dao turned her attention to the internet with the launch of Rockit Online in 2013. In 2014, Rockit secured US$500,000 (VND10.9 billion) in funding from Silicon Valley investors. Rockit offers small classes taught through an online portal. The company strives to make supplemental

14 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam.com

education accessible, affordable and convenient. Courses cost less than at competitive English language centres, but are of comparable quality. Dao compares standard Vietnamese classrooms to a closed box. The adherence to traditional teaching methods, teachers and textbooks makes it a difficult model to penetrate. “The Vietnamese education landscape wasn’t opening itself up to new ideas or new players,” she says. “Who will enter that space without that space opening itself up?”

The Path of Progress With Rockit, Dao is disrupting Vietnam’s education system through technology. “Education technology provides atypical educators access to students because they no longer need a classroom, school or campus,” she explains.

Soft Skills While Rockit primarily offers English language courses, now more than ever, the need for professional development is on the rise. According to Dao, Vietnam’s higher education system

PHOTOS BY VU BAO KHANH

Refuting concerns about the rising phobia of ‘screen addiction’, Dao contends that Rockit’s model is all about active learning. When you teach or learn through their platform, “you don’t look at the computer,” she says. “You look at your teacher and classmates. It’s hard to ignore that interaction.” Classes are capped at five students, and students and teachers communicate through video, voice and chat. Video courses are increasingly included in Rockit’s course catalogue, offering a lower-cost option. Small classes enable Rockit to emphasise discipline in language learning. Rockit’s team calls students before each class and after any sessions they may miss, a level of attention hard to manage with offline class structures. “I want to help learners stick to something they have started,” says Dao. Rockit employs teachers from all over the world, though Vietnamese teachers who have studied (or are currently studying) abroad comprise the majority, as these teachers have a solid understanding of how Vietnamese students learn. When hiring, Rockit stresses teacher quality and engagement with students; students rate potential hires after online demos.

is one of the region’s weakest, with compromised resources and outdated programming. “Career readiness is lacking,” she says. “Many graduates get out of university and don’t even know how to write a CV.” Rockit hopes to supplement Vietnamese college education and to prepare students and young professionals for the quickly globalising workforce. The startup is currently fundraising for this upcoming venture. “My vision for long-term expansion would be an education programme that serves people in many aspects of their career and life,” explains Dao. Millennials and Gen-Z-ers are increasingly eschewing traditional schedules in favour of flexibility and convenience. All this makes the growing shift from classroom to computer inevitable, especially for supplemental education. In Vietnam, Rockit is paving the way. — Noey Neumark

wordvietnam.com | August 2015 Word | 15

Briefings

Savon de Saigon

HCMC

A local cosmetics brand is helping Saigon residents make their own beauty supplies

PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER

here is a rapidly growing community that petitions for healthy and natural beauty care. If you haven’t joined it yet, you should probably think again. It might sound cliché, but after visiting Savon de Saigon, I’m convinced: this has a chance to be big. The cosmetics brand offers natural beauty products for purchase, as well as workshops to learn how to make them yourself. Created two years ago by Julien and Thao, a French-Vietnamese couple based in Ho Chi Minh City, this beauty care company is guided by the philosophy of offering natural goods that help your skin to be healthy using the best ingredients Vietnam has to offer. All their handmade products

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are made of natural, harmless ingredients such as rice bran oil, coconut oil and sunflower oil. Many of the ingredients are indigenous to Vietnam, while some come from other countries. The couple also hosts the classes in English, Vietnamese or French. In these lessons, you can learn how to make a variety of different products such as scrubs, lotions, facial serums or lipsticks. Prices start from VND490,000. One extra perk of Savon de Saigon is that there is no time limit to create your products, thus ensuring a relaxing and enjoyable experience. No race against the clock here! During our class we learned how easy and fun it was to design and make our beauty treats. Aided by

Julien’s advice, we were handed a seemingly endless variety of ingredients. In the calm and supportive atmosphere, we had plenty of time to play and learn about their uses and results. Moreover, we got a glimpse into the guiding ethos of Savon de Saigon: teaching people just how simple and important it is to keep their skin healthy and clean. In the near future these entrepreneurs will also start offering a Home Spa service with all kinds of natural and advanced treatments. — Natalia Martinez Savon de Saigon is at 180/58 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Ho Chi Minh City. You can also find directions to their different points of sale in Hanoi and Hoi An at savondesaigon.com

Photos by Francis Xavier

Charity of the Month

Heart Reach Australia A quarter of a century supporting the less well-off in Vietnam

hris O’Dempsey has been making it happen for some of Vietnam’s poorest for 25 years. During a trip with the Christian church in 1990, he was overwhelmed by the plight of those with no access to proper medical facilities, full education or employment. He’s visited Vietnam three times a year ever since, even married into the country. He recalls his initial visit to Dien Bien Phu eye hospital in Ho Chi Minh City. There he saw children as young as six months old suffering from preventable eye conditions like glaucoma and cataracts. On returning to Australia, he called the late great Fred Hollows, the famous eye surgeon who had been awarded funding from the Australian government. Fred told him to contact the heads of the major hospitals at home, so he did. Chris immediately formed Project Vietnam, the forerunner to Heart Reach Australia. Originally focused on securing medical equipment, Chris started

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sending over supplies to donate to local hospitals. It was problematic and wasn’t always a success. In response, Heart Reach has changed its focus. Among their many acitivities, now they sponsor local doctors to train in Australia, paying for them to earn their surgery stripes abroad, before plying their trade back home. When he describes one of the earliest impacts of his work, he takes a moment to compose himself. Imagine a 20-year-old woman hit by a truck — run over and left for dead. It was only because of the donation of one of eight dialysis machines — the first had arrived in Saigon just two weeks earlier — that she was able to make a full recovery. Written off to die, the one word she knew in English, “Thank you,” still resonates with Chris today.

Long-term Relationships When we meet at New World Saigon — the property has sponsored Heart Reach’s

programmes since 2012 — he brings Mai with him, an 18-year-old teenager from the Mekong. She’s one of hundreds of beneficiaries of Heart Reach’s work today, where they encourage people to sponsor a child. Through this, Mai has been given the opportunity to reach for her academic and employment dreams. The day after our meeting, she will meet with RMIT in the hope of securing a much needed scholarship. Heart Reach’s next mission is an ambulance boat for the area that Mai comes from — Ben Tre. Without emergency river transport and first aid in this section of the Mekong, too many people die before they even reach a hospital. An ambulance boat would change that says Chris, who has promised delivery by Dec. 1 this year. It’s a promise he has no intention of breaking. To see their work over the last 25 years and support Heart Reach’s current fundraising effort, go to heartreachaustralia.com

In Transition Hanoi

Map taken from tdsi.gov.vn

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The Hanoi Metro

Don’t be fooled. It’s the metro system in the capital which will be completed first, not the one in Saigon. Words by Nick Ross. Photo by Julie Vola

n recent months, much of the talk in this honourable medium has been on the Saigon Metro System. That we have placed such a focus on this infrastructure project should come as little surprise. The Saigon Metro — while years away — is having a disruptive effect on Downtown Saigon. Roads have been closed, transportation routes altered, and the lives of almost every central-living or working resident in the city have been affected. Now we hear it is over budget. Yet just because the first phase of Hanoi’s Metro System (Duong sat do thi

Ha Noi) avoids the Old Quarter and the area around Hoan Kiem Lake, meaning less comment in the public domain, this doesn’t mean it should be ignored. Planned to be operational in advance of its cousin to the south, construction on Line 3 — which runs from Nhon to the Hanoi Railway Station — commenced in Sep. 2011. Work on Line 2A, from Cat Linh to Ha Dong, started in Jan. 2012. Both, according to previous estimates, ahem, ahem, they should be up and running by the end of the year. But take a walk down Hao Nam Street and Hoang Cau and you’ll see giant

unconnected pillars silhouetted against the skyline, as well as the occasional construction site. The new ETA is 2018. Many reasons were cited for this year’s culling of century-old trees in Hanoi, one being the need to make way for stations on the metro system. The incident raised eyebrows and tempers. But, for the Hanoi Metro System to both be constructed and carry its estimated 200,000 passengers a day, Vietnam’s capital needs to be transformed. And transformation takes time, especially in a city as historic as Hanoi.

Briefings HCMC

The G ift W

Presents come in many forms. Here’s one that women might like

hen I was told I would be getting a gift from Ma Belle Box, I had no idea what to expect. My French skills are pretty poor — I studied the language for two years at university, and that was a long time ago — but I at least remembered that belle means beautiful. But little did I expect the box to arrive with the woman who’s created it, Marion Vigot. She turned up at the office, box in hand. “What is it?” I asked. “Just some stuff for you!” she replied. “Can I open it now?” I continued. “Later!” She walked out of the door and got on her friend’s bike Opening gifts is always exciting,

especially when the present comes with an attractive aroma. It was so strong I knew there must be perfume inside. I started opening. Inside the first box was a second box. And then inside that was a bottle of coconut oil (60ml), a Rouge Edition lipstick, a make-up remover, a face and body soap, a roll-on essential oil (5ml), a flyer from Kenzo with some perfume samples, and a Ma Belle Box brochure. I smiled.

Life is Like a Box of Chocolates… It’s been more than six months since I decided to cut down the amount of chemicals applied on my skin. I shower and wash my hair with baking soda, condition my hair with apple vinegar and moisturize my

aging skin (I’m 30!) with olive oil. However, these five items grabbed my attention. They all come from natural sources. Nothing chemical here. So, my next question. Will every Ma Belle Box will have the same five products? For VND500,000, every two months you will receive a Ma Belle Box containing a selection of four to five travel-sized products, mostly locally sourced. The answer is no. They could be soaps, essential oils, make-up removers, lipsticks, coconut oil, UV protection creams. It’s party of the attraction of it all. The restaurant-style black box, but with cosmetics. Pencil me in for another one, please, Marion. — Vu Ha Kim Vy For info click on mabellebox.com PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER

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Building of the Month

The Apartment Block on Nguyen Sieu

Past and Present Many of the original apartment blocks have now been knocked down. They were in poor condition, and for the developers, the real estate they were sat on was better used for all things new. Some, fortunately, remain

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including the block between Thi Sach, Nguyen Sieu, Thai Van Lung and Cao Ba Quat. Located close to the Opera House, this downtown apartment building looks like it was built in the 1960s. By Saigon standards, that’s old. With its magnificent inner courtyard and winding staircase, labyrinthine alleys connect one apartment with the other. Flaking stairwells boast era tiles and, to the chagrin of the developers, Saigon’s young have taken to this block like a disconnected duck takes to water. Trendy cafes have opened up — Ban Khuang and El Sol — a gallery lines two floors of stairwell inside one entrance and a couple of rice restaurants serve up lunchtime binh dan fare. Yet the block is in disrepair. Paint peels, smashed out window pains remain unreplaced, and the bannister of that outdoor stairwell is held together with chicken wire. How the structure — the supporting

beams, walls and foundations — fares is difficult to tell.

The Wrecking Ball? Will the block survive? Well, if Vietnam’s younger generation has their say, it will — they don’t want to let go. Which must confuse the decisionmakers. Where does all this nostalgia come from? Our answer. It’s a generational thing. Their generation suffered terribly at the hands of war and poverty. All they want to do is bury it, destroy it and build a Brave New moneymaking World. But today’s youth has travelled. They’ve seen how other cities have married old with new. So, why can’t Saigon and Hanoi do the same? We don’t know how this tug-ofwar will end. Right now, my money is with the developers and the decision-makers. For the sake of history, I just hope I’m wrong. — Nick Ross

PHOTO BY BAO ZOAN

few years ago, if you drove through the rapidly expanding suburbs you would see the following banner: Do Thi Moi, Van Minh Moi. New suburb, new civilization. To attract residents, these new areas were selling apartment style-living and dressing it up as an aspirational lifestyle. This was supported by a number of TV series, where affluent families’ lives would be storied from within their beautiful, modern apartments. But wind back time half a century and more, and this was already the lifestyle of urban dwellers in Vietnam’s big cities.

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ToDo list HCMC

Optimist Club moves to a Saturday on Aug. 7 but returns to Thursday after. DJ Ouch plays on Aug. 23

Saigon diva DJ Lotus Disco is leaving. His performance on Aug. 29 is likely to be a big one.

1 PHOTO BY KYLE PHANROY

From summer camps to DJ nights and networking events, Saigon might not be all the busy this month, but it’s still got something to offer those who haven’t taken off for the summer

Summer Camp VinSpace, Q2 and Q7 Until Aug. 17 Got a child to offload for the day? Perhaps even the week? Just kidding. Got a budding Picasso on your hands? Let their creative juices run free at VinSpace. From the deepest darkest depths of space to the mysteries of Ancient Egypt, superheroes to dinosaurs, each week is themed for maximum fun. The VinSpace Summer Camp is at 6 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 and at S24-1 Le Van Thiem, Q7 and costs US$30 (VND652,000) for the day or US$135 (VND2.9 million) for the whole week. Both options include all art materials. For more info click on vin-space.com

Optimist Club The Observatory, Q4 Friday Aug. 7 Featuring regulars 1DAN, Lotus Disco and El Capitan, Optimist Club is usually a Thursday night institution, at least for the last 140 weeks anyway. This time round it comes to us on a Friday, but it’s still free before midnight. Come later and pay VND100,000. And for those still loving those Thursday nights, check out the show on Aug. 23 with the deep house tunes of Swiss veteran DJ Ouch. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC

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It’s a New Dawn

Canvas and Wine

Le Meridien, Q1 Wednesday Aug. 12

Vinspace, Q7 Thursday Aug. 13

TravelMassive Saigon has teamed up with WebinTravel (the conference element of ITB Asia) to bring a special evening event to Vietnam on Aug. 12. According to the organisers, this is the go-to travel event of 2015 in Vietnam, with international speakers, plenty of networking and of course some fun, too. All at Saigon’s newest five-star, Le Meridien. The event is free of charge and will run from 6pm to 9.30pm. It will be in held in the Grand Ball Room at Le Meridien Saigon, 3C Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC. Places are limited, so please RSVP at travelmassive.com/events

The title of this one has us interested. What’s canvas though? Something you paint on? Cool. In this session your professional painting instructor dims the lights a little (no hand holding ‘til afterwards please) and takes a look at Saigon in low light. Get stimulated by a subject that has inspired artists for hundreds of years. It’s all soft glows, bright glares and smoky outlines around here. Come and illuminate Saigon like never before. Canvas & Wine is from 6.30pm to 9.30pm at VinSpace Art Studio, S24-1 Le Van Thiem, Q7 and costs US$38 (VND826,000) but is 15 percent cheaper if you come in a

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ToDo list HCMC

Just in time for the World Cup, RMIT is playing host to a Rugby 10s Tournament in early September

From summer camps to DJ nights and networking events, Saigon might not be all the busy this month, but it’s still got something to offer those who haven’t taken off for the summer

group of four and 20 percent cheaper if you’re a teacher. To book email info@ vin-space.com or call 0907 729846. For more info click on vin-space.com

Cheezy Gangztaz The Observatory, Q4 Friday Aug. 21 This eclectic local duo will be at it again on Aug. 21 along with local legends Nick Simon and Mike Pham, all conspiring to funk up your Friday night. A good chance

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to check out some upcoming talent in the city. Entrance is free before midnight and VND100,000 after. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC

Lotus Disco’s Farewell The Observatory, Q4 Saturday Aug. 29 The Observatory will say farewell to that dancing diva of a DJ everyone’s come to love. That’s right Lotus Disco is leaving, but

not without one hell of a party set for Saturday Aug. 29. Don’t miss what should be an especially flamboyant performance. Entrance is VND100,000 after midnight. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC

Rugby 10s Tournament RMIT, Q7 Saturday Sep. 12 The Saigon Rugby Club (our

PHOTO PROVIDED BY THE SAIGON GECKOS

1 new best friends) and Alfrescoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Group are hosting the inaugural Rugby 10s tournament to be played on the RMIT grounds in Saigon South on Sep. 12. Six teams will play from Hong Kong, Australia and Japan, as well as the usual suspects from Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. Round robin games will culminate in two finals and there will be a number of other activities on

the day to make it familyfriendly including a bouncy castle, which we canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t wait to try. The club is also in negotiations to bring a famousname rugby player out as ambassador for the event. This one should be well worth the trip out to District 7. The day begins at 11am at RMIT South Saigon Campus, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7. All are welcome. For more info contact the club on saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com

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Just HCMC

New salad joints, bars and toyshops, new services, make up for men and all the other odd bits and bobs that pop up in our Inbox

Ice Blue Reopens on Hai Ba Trung After 21 years of satisfying customers on Dong Khoi, Ice Blue Bar has reopened its doors on Hai Ba Trung. The new, multi-level space is spread out over three floors, and while the menu and theme will stay the same, darts is the name of the game here (Ice Blue was a founder member of the darts league, after all). With areas devoted to both soft and steel-tip darts, the watering hole will open daily at 10am and will serve up Vietnamese and western cuisine. Ice Blue’s new location is at 24 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, HCMC, next to Annam Gourmet

Pocket Earth is doing everything to make sure you don’t get lost

Saigon Scooter Centre moves its showroom to Thao Dien

Originally opened in Hoi An, Metiseko has now set up shop in Saigon

Tandoor has moved to a new location on Ngo Duc Ke

CitiFarm Pioneers Urban Farming The recently opened CitiFarm is proud to be a pioneer in the trend of urban farming. Their mission is to bring a safe source of vegetables to consumers in a farm-to-table model. Concerned about food security, their story starts with Mr. Tanabe Kazuo, who brought the hydroponic technology from Japan to Vietnam in 2011. Originally based on delivering food free from radiation in the aftermath of the Fukushima disaster, CitiFarm grows it vegetables in a completely contained environment, not using any soil, only water — the produce is entirely free from any kind of pesticide or bacteria. They go into local production this month, and since seeing is believing, they’d love you to come and visit. Check them out at citifarm.vn and on

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facebook.com/citifarm.vn. To arrange a factory tour, please contact Caroline at caroline@citifarm.vn

Pocket Earth When you need to find yourself, it might be a good idea to get lost. But don’t like, actually get lost, that’s just inconvenient. A new offline travel app by GeoMagik has been released to help you do just that, and it’s called Pocket Earth. Providing travellers a complete route-finder package including public transit info, cycle and hiking maps, as well as the usual ability to find places of interest, restaurants and tourist sites, it’s currently available in a basic version for free. For the price of a coffee, you can get the PRO version, which offers people the ability to explore the world without worrying

about getting actually lost, ever. With 3G not reaching many of Vietnam’s rural areas, this could be the perfect companion not just for city lovers fed up with slow internet speeds (more sharks, anyone?), but for the type of person looking to go that little bit off the beaten track. Pocket Earth is available for iOS users on App Store

Saigon Scooter Gets a New Showroom in Q2 After flirting with a new showroom in Tan Binh, Saigon Scooter Centre has ditched the hinterland and headed to District 2 to set up new offices and a bike rental centre in Thao Dien. Currently stocking over 150 premium imported Italian helmets, thousands of parts, a wide range of accessories including

3 Respro UK anti pollution masks, they also have over 30 classic Italian vintage scooters for sale. Their new workshop is also now open with over 100 classic scooters in stock. So scoot in for a bargain. Just don’t tell them we said that — it’s the laziest pun we could think of. Saigon Scooter Centre is open every day from 9am until 5.30pm and is located just behind Thao Dien Pearl. Their new address is 77A Hanoi Highway, Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC.

to stay put in Hoi An and Hanoi, and are continuing to expand their “fundamental design concept based on Vietnamese traditions and landscapes combined with the elegance of contemporary fashion”. Simply put, they are feminine, chic and elegant. A lot like us! They even got a mention in The Guardian recently. Woohoo! Metiseko ‘Eco Chic Lifestyle’ is at 32 Tran Ngoc Dien Q2 and is open every day from 8.30am to 7.30pm

Metiseko Now Open at Snap

Tandoor Moves

Metiseko do clothes, accessories and homewares. Really well, apparently, because they’re opening another new location at expat hub Snap Café in Thao Dien. Describing itself as a ready-to-wear brand, and the brainchild of French designers including creative director Florence Mussou, they’ve become too big

After years shacked up next to KFC on Hai Ba Trung (the restaurant was originally on Vo Van Tan), Tandoor has moved to a new location on Ngo Duc Ke. Established in 1997, the new one-floored venue has a large dining area and a cozy atmosphere, and continues serving up the mainly

north Indian cuisine that has made it a favourite for almost 20 years. Tandoor is at 39A-39B Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3930 4839. The restaurant is online at tandoorvietnam.com 4

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overscene HCMC

DigiPost Turns 10

Photos by StudioDAG Ho Chi Minh City’s advertising and media production crowd got together to help DigiPost celebrate 10 years in town. Did someone say open bar?

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Saigon Artbook

Photos by Kyle Phanroy A collaging workshop took place in Vin Gallery’s new studio space alongside a pop-up exhibition of Vitaliya Letnitskaya’s original creations.

beauty and millionaire

Photos provided by Ho Tram Resort Casino Vietnam Fashion TV showed that its brand has got some real staying power at its recent partycum-fashion-show-top-end-dining event at Ho Tram Grand.

If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage, please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look

Same Form, Different Medium

Photos by Francis Xavier The art director at Elle, Dzung Yoko gathered together a collection of work from his shoots to create a solo exhibition at Dia Projects

Pink F loyd tribute

Photos by Francis Xavier Is anybody out there? A bunch of people apparently, and they all turned up to Saigon Ranger to get comfortably numb with a Pink Floyd tribute band from Singaporeâ&#x20AC;Ś

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ToDo

listHanoi From live music to exhibitions and Greek cuisine all the way through to carnivals. Who says that August is dead in Hanoi? Prism Manzi Art Space, Ba Dinh Until Aug. 17 Prism is a multi-media sound and video installation project that explores the relationship between bodies, shifting landscapes, and cultural memory in Vietnam. The collaborative work of Patricia Nguyen, Ly Hoang Ly and John Lee, through an embodied experience attending to the sense of sight, sound and tactile navigation, Prism offers an experience that challenges the viewer to question the relationship between notions of memory and amnesia, home and displacement, and construction and destruction. Manzi is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh. The installation will run until Aug. 17

The Order Chula, Tay Ho Until Saturday Aug. 25 Chula will be hosting the work of young artist, Le Thuy, until Saturday Aug. 25. Entitled The Order, the exhibition will include a series of paintings on silk. Le Thuy’s first public exhibition, through her paintings the artist hopes you can feel her message: “Just like in human society, there are also people who want to contradict and change, but what they do [is to] contribute to making a new order”.

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Chula Fashion House is at 43 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi

O Auto da Compadecida (2000, Adventure, Comedy) Tuesday Aug. 18 Cidade de Deus (2002, Crime, Drama) Tuesday Aug. 25 Central do Brasil (1998, Drama ) The films kick off at 8pm and La Bicicleta is at 44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi

MiNombreEsDolores! Cong Ca Phe, Tay Ho Saturday Aug. 8

Brazilian Films at La Bicicleta La Bicicleta, Tay Ho Every Tuesday in August La Bicicleta continues its Tuesday film nights this month with a showcase featuring the best of Brazilian movies and — if you’ve seen it — perhaps one of the best flicks of the 21st century so far, Cidade de Deus (The City of Gods). Here’s the line-up: Tuesday Aug. 4 Tropa de Élite (2007, Action, Crime, Drama) Tuesday Aug. 11

Chilean travelling musician Matias Hidalgo aka MiNombreEsDolores! Will be playing at Cong Ca Phe in Tay Ho on Saturday Aug. 8. Part of the regular music night organised by Vietnamese actor and musician, Vissay, Hidalgo will be performing original songs from his second album, Asi Es. Played with an acoustic guitar mixed in with soundbox loop effects, the lively shows mix two languages within the vocals to create something he likes to call Spanglish. The show kicks off at 9pm and Cong Ca Phe is at 100 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi. Entrance is free of charge. For more info on MiNombreEsDolores! Click on mned.bandcamp.com

8m2 Goethe-Institut Hanoi, Ba Dinh From Thursday Aug. 13 The Goethe-Institut Hanoi will be hosting the photo installation 8m2

1. Work by young Vietnamese artist, Le Thuy 2. The City of Gods will be shown at La Bicicleta on Aug. 18. It has been ranked as one of the best films of the 21st Century 3. The number’s up! Travelling Chilean musician MiNombreEsDolores! aka Matias Hidalgo 4. 8m2 at the Goethe-Institut documents the living space of Vietnam’s migrant workers 5. Le Cat Trong Ly will perform at Manzi this month

4 from Aug. 13 by acclaimed artist Nguyen The Son. Addressing the living environment of Vietnam’s migration workers, the exhibition title refers to the minimum living space requirement in Vietnam during the subsidized economy era prior to Doi Moi. Says the artist: “After half a century of struggling, many people still have to toss and turn in that 8m2, but it is not 8m2 for just one person, at times it is for up to eight people.” Through his photo installation, Son addresses the individual consequences of industrialisation in Vietnam. People who move to the city in quest of work often live in severe conditions for years. The project documents the small corners of these living environments and gives the workers a voice

by incorporating their personal belongings into the artwork. The exhibition will open at the Goethe-Institut, 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh at 6pm on Thursday Aug. 13. It will then run daily until Aug. 30 from 9am to 7pm

Haiku for the Fall Manzi Art Space, Ba Dinh Friday Aug. 14 and Saturday Aug. 15 Acclaimed Danang-born singer songwriter Le Cat Trong Ly will be back at Manzi on Friday Aug. 14 and Saturday Aug. 15. Performing her latest creations as well as some well-known and wellloved songs ‘from the ages’, she will be accompanied by cellist Nguyen Thanh Tu, oboist Nguyen Hoang Tung and pianist Vu Dang Quoc Viet.

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ToDo

listHanoi From live music to exhibitions and Greek cuisine all the way through to carnivals. Who says that August is dead in Hanoi? 1 Ly’s concerts are VERY popular. So, to reserve your seat, email manzihanoi@ gmail.com by Aug. 5. Manzi is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh and the shows kick off at 8pm. Entrance TBA

1. The Notting Hill Carnival is coming to Hanoi this year courtesy of Skank the Tank Soundsystem 2. Work by Hanoian artist Doan Hoang Lam

Bluegrass and Country Night CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Saturday Aug. 15 Bring your cowboy hat and dancing shoes for a rip-roaring, whiskeysoaked night of American country and bluegrass music with the band, Cao Boi on Aug. 15. Hanoi's only five-piece countrycrooning band, the outfit includes double bass, telecaster guitar, acoustic guitar, mandolin, banjo and cajón. This is an act that MUST be seen live. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung. Doors are at 8pm. Entrance TBA

EM-BODY Manzi Art Space, Ba Dinh From Friday Aug. 21 Hanoian Doan Hoang Lam will be the latest artist to exhibit his work at Manzi with his show, EM-BODY. Opening on Aug. 21, Lam is an abstract and expressionist painter whose interest lies in depicting and (dis)figuring the human body and psyche. This theme will be brought out with a series of large-size paintings on oil and lacquer. At times

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aggressive and dark, at others sensual and alluring, the human figures in Lam’s work seem to both appear and disappear, their parts dismantled and reassembled, their whole buried and exhumed. The opening reception is at 6.30pm on Friday Aug. 21. Entrance is free. Manzi is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh

Greek Week Daluva, Tay Ho Monday Aug. 24 to Sunday Aug. 30 For the last week of August, Daluva is bringing Greece to Hanoi. Chef Shahar Lubin will be preparing a special menu of his favourite Hellenic dishes. Some will be traditional, while others will be reinterpreted. Some will be famous classics and others will be obscure specials. Together with a special music selection encompassing Greek music from five decades, get ready to spice up your drinking and dining with a dose of olive oil and feta. And don’t forget your toga! Daluva is at 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi or online at facebook.com/Daluva. Hanoi

Late Summer Dinner Hanoi Cooking Centre, Ba Dinh Thursday Aug. 27 “Two women and a duck make

a market,” goes the ancient Vietnamese proverb. And while Hanoi Cooking Centre (HCC) don’t compare themselves to ducks, they are certainly going to do their best to bring the market to the table on Thursday Aug. 27. The special dinner will cost VND580,000 (beverages will be sold separately at bar prices) and will consist of a range of dishes cooked up using the freshest, seasonal ingredients bought from the local market. The dinner will be prepared by chef Tracey Lister and her team at HCC. Space are limited so please book in advance by emailing info@ hanoicookingcentre.com or calling (04) 3715 0088. HCC is at 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

Notting Hill Carnival CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Saturday Aug. 29

The Notting Hill Carnival in London is one of the world’s biggest street carnivals. A celebration of Caribbean culture, this year the Skank the Tank Reggae Soundsystem will be doing everything in their power to bring the sounds, sights and tastes of the West Indies to ATK. There may not be any steel drum bands in Hanoi, but there’ll be live percussion into the mix. Add to that some heady rum-based cocktails, free fancy dress and a line up of Sub Elements DJs, and you’ve got onehelluva night in the capital. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung. Doors are at 8pm. Entrance TBA

Once reserved exclusively for royalty, tranquil Westlake now boasts Hanoi’s Gold-Standard serviced residences. Minutes from the city with unobstructed lake views, Fraser Suites Hanoi offers you the award-winning service even ancient kings would envy.

Netball Tournament Australian Embassy, Ba Dinh Saturday Sep. 12 The Hanoi Ois are hosting an open netball tournament on the afternoon of Saturday Sep. 12 to celebrate the start of the 2015-2016 season and to welcome new players. The tournament will be held at the Australian Embassy and will include a quick orientation/training session for those who don’t know how to play. Sign up in groups or alone — teams of seven will be put together accordingly. The tournament is free to join and all genders and levels are welcome, including absolute beginners. Participants will get a free beer or soft drink for joining! BBQ and other refreshments will be on sale. Alternatively, come along as a spectator and bring your friends and family for a fun afternoon of netball. To sign up, email hanoinetball@ gmail.com by Sep. 7. The Australian Embassy is at 8 Dao Tan, Ba Dinh, Hanoi, just behind the Lotte Center

THE FRASER COLLECTION BAHRAIN • BANGALORE • BANGKOK • BEIJING • BUDAPEST • CHENGDU • DOHA • DUBAI • EDINBURGH • GLASGOW • GUANGZHOU • GURGAON • HANOI • HO CHI MINH CITY • HONG KONG • ISTANBUL • JAKARTA • KUALA LUMPUR • LONDON • MANILA • MELBOURNE • NANJING • NEW DELHI • OSAKA • PARIS • PERTH • SEOUL • SHANGHAI • SHENZHEN • SINGAPORE • SUZHOU • SYDNEY • TIANJIN • WUHAN • WUXI • CHENNAI (2014) • AL KHOBAR (2015) • FRANKFURT (2015) • RIYADH (2014)

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Just Hanoi

PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

Amato

Amato is the brainchild of the people who brought us West Lake favourite, Cousins

Kem Tiamo brings handmade Italian ice-cream to downtown Hanoi

KAfe opens its eighth outlet in The Yard, the newly conceived space that has been modeled on London’s Borough Market

Last Year’s Hanoi Open Exhibition at Workroom Four

Kem Tiamo

PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

If you like your ice-cream and Fanny no longer tickles the places that other ice-creams just can’t reach, then check out Kem Tiamo, a relatively new gelato joint close to the lake. The work of French-Italian

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entrepreneur Laurent Marietta — a graduate of Carpigiani Gelato University in Bologna, Italy — the 24 flavours of ice-cream, gelato and sorbet are handmade and are served up with the likes of waffles or crepes, or even just on their own. Marietta likes to experiment with Vietnamese fruit. So expect some more interesting variations appearing on the menu like blackberry (dau tam) sorbet with wine. Also soon-to-be-served is a selection of mocktails and teas from around the world. Kem Tiamo is at 11 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi or online at kemtiamo.com

KAfe at The Yard KAfe just doesn’t know when to stop. Already with seven outlets in Hanoi and counting, coffee house number eight opened last month in the newly conceived, Zone 9 lookalike space, The Yard. Modelled after London’s Borough Market, the hope is that The Yard — which is located at 67 Pho Duc Chinh, Ba Dinh — will turn into a buzzing, urban shopping and dining complex. KAfe is located in its entrance. As part of the opening of its eighth outlet, KAfe is also launching its own brand name tea and coffee. Using organic tea and coffee products, according to the press release, their “mission is to support the farmers in

making high-quality and sustainable cups of coffee and tea that will give our customers an extraordinary and delightful experience.” Best go and try it, then. For more on KAfe click on thekafe.vn

Call to Artists Part of Work Room Four’s mission is to support aspiring artists in Hanoi and further afield in Vietnam. With two successful open exhibitions already under their belt — last time round they showcased 122 artworks by 78 artists — they are now doing a call out for the threequel. Here’s an excerpt of their letter to the general public. Dear friends of Work Room Four, We are putting out the call to artists for the Third Hanoi Open Exhibition... We are very proud to say that The Hanoi Open exhibition is now in it’s third year. The exhibition aims to draw together a broad range of varied works by established and unknown artists, professional and amateur. The exhibition is a unique showcase for art in a variety of mediums; painting, sculpture, photography and print. The Open Exhibition will run from Sep. 13 until Oct. 4, 2015. The deadline for both emailing and delivering submissions is Saturday Sep. 5. If you want to get involved, click on workroomfour.com and check out the submission details.

PHOTO PROVIED BY WORKROOM FOUR

Whitewashed bare-brick walls, wooden floors, French era tiling and an international bistro menu. Sound familiar? Well, it should do as the recently opened Amato just a whisper away from the Opera House is the latest venture of the team behind the wildly successful West Lake eatery, Cousins. Serving up an international tapas menu — think croquettas, Iberian pork cheek, venison stew, salads, pate, trillettes, frog legs and more — combined with a breakfast menu and a bistro-style set lunch (VND280,000 for two course, VND320,000 for three), expect this new offering to be every bit as good as its predecessor. The place is only small — it’s a 25-seater with a mezzanine level and a couple of tables out front — but it’s got high ceilings and is bang next to the jazz club. Making it the perfect stopping point next time you’re in town. Amato is at 1a Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01227 367470. To see more do a search on Facebook

PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

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wordvietnam.com | August 2015 Word | 39

overscene hanoi

Eden Turns One

Photos by Julie Vola It’s summertime, it’s Eden Bar, it’s outdoors, it’s their first birthday and it’s… PAAAAAAARTY!

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The Tiny Music Club

Photos by Vu Bao Khanh Australian singer-songwriter Floyd Thursby was the latest musician to grace the Hanoi Social Club’s acoustic music nights

It’s Me

Photos by Vu Bao Khanh Anyone who says the Vietnamese nightclub has been replaced by the Beer Club, think again. As Hero Bar showed, when the big boys like Viettel come running, they can put on a show. This one featured DJs Son Tung, Tenishia and Huy Dx

If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage, please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look

Old Sounds of New Day

Photos by Vu Bao Khanh The first in a series of xam performances — traditional street-style folk music played by wandering minstrels — the show at Manzi featured musicians Xuan Hoach and Thanh Hoai

For a Cause

Photos by Julie Vola Clickspace’s Spacebar Café played host to a fundraising photographic exhibition to raise much-needed money for the monk-run orphanage at Thinh Dai Temple in Ha Nam. The exhibition portraits were taken by Emily Sumner.

Insider

The Big Wet / Australia's Cash Cow / S**RTS!/ The Balleria / Papa Rome / Street Snacker Hanoi / Mystery Diner HCMC / Street Snacker HCMC / Croatia / Routefinder / The Motorbike Diaries Photo by Kyle Phanroy 42 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam.com

wordvietnam.com | August 2015 Word | 43

Insider

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Denial Stop denying it. Who do you think you are? The Australian Prime Minister? All the signs of climate change are here. They have been for weeks. You’ve been dreading it, sure, but don’t act surprised, you’ve known about it for ages — since last year at least. So put away those brightly coloured tank tops, and those ridiculous denim cut-offs, it’s time to break out a poncho my friends. It’s August, you’re in Vietnam, and whether you like it or not, you’re about to get wet.

Flash Flood From Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City, the country is about to undergo its annual drenching. While up north and in the north centre, the rain gets heavy in the Autumn and Winter, down south the weather comes in two varieties: dry or wet. According to the National Centre for Hydro-Meteorological Forecasting, this means at least four to five storms and the usual tropical lows for Hanoians. In Ho Chi Minh City, expect regular heavy downpours, and by regular we mean daily. These are the types of flashflood inducing rains that cause schools to close (yay!), cities to more or less shut down and unfortunately, lives to be lost. Sorry to get all ‘fun police’ on you, but bear that in mind next time you’re posing for a wet weather snap in your neighbours’ ‘urban canoe’. For a breakdown and comparison of all the stats that matter, and a short history of some hectic wet weather, check out our nifty little infographic on the next page.

Fashion Far from taking ourselves too seriously, we need to talk about what’s important when the rains do come. I’m talking fashion, ladies and gentlemen, and how to rock that wet weather look. Whether you’re going to work, meeting your crush or just hanging out with your buds, you don’t want a bit of rain ruining your style, and by style we mean hairstyle. Of course flip-flops (‘thongs’ if your Australian, ‘jandals’ if you like sounding like a Kiwi), rubber boots and a raincoat are the obvious objects ‘de rigeur’ in the wet season, but when it comes to hair there are a few different options. The plait. For the forward thinkers among us, put your hair together in a braid before it evens starts raining. Once it stops and your hair starts to dry, set that lion’s mane free and you've got yourself some luxurious waves. No styling charge necessary. The high wet ponytail. Low maintenance is key when you’re bouncing between appointments. Comb your hair super tight and put it in a tail for a hassle-free waxed look. Also makes you look 17 percent more sporty. The natural look. If you’re like us and you live your life in slow-motion replay, don’t do anything. Just keep your helmet on until the rain stops, and when it does, look as cool as possible taking it off, stare confidently into middle distance and shake that impressive

INSIDER

NATIONAL

The Big Wet When we get wet in Vietnam, we get really wet. Jon Aspin and Natalia Martinez take a look at some of the things that really matter when the heavens open up, and asked the whole Word team for their top tips. Infographic by Vu Kim Ha Vy

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head of hair out like you’re walking onto the set of Casino Royale. You’ll be snapped up by waiting talent scouts in no time. Or sniggered at by 10 year olds. One other fashion tip for the ladies if you're not looking at attracting unwanted attention, or perhaps if you are, always wear a sheer white blouse, preferably loosely buttoned. Do we need to say more?

Top Tips for the Marooned Ok, so when it’s poured down every day at the same time for the last month, your street is flooded and you’re marooned in your own home — which is by now crawling with fleeing insects — here’s a few top tips and stories from the Word team to make your wait more useful: “Rainboots are de rigueur for the wet market ladies, and only wet market ladies, my friends. Expect a few funny stares.” — Jill Kester “Don’t be surprised when your ten-dollar ‘waterproof North Face’ bag you bought in a street market in Peru turns out not in fact, to be waterproof” — Kieran Crowe “Avoid certain street foods on rainy days. There is nothing worse for your stomach than eating bun cha that’s been cooked on a street that has received a regular splash of

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water from cars driving over potholes. Trust me.” — David Mann “Don’t be afraid of getting wet, darlings.”— Noey Neumark “Don’t play chicken with the rain. You’ll never win. Shopping in hand and just two blocks from home, one time I decided to go for it, poncho stashed naively under my seat. After just a few seconds down it came, all at once. My Converse were full of water, my underwear was saturated and I ended up leaving a small pond on the floor of my building’s elevator. I’ve never tried to outrun a rainstorm since.”— Simon Stanley “Wear shorts all the time, but if pants are a must, you should have two rubber bands in your wallet. You can roll you pants up to your knees and secure them with the rubber bands.” — Vu Kim Ha Vy “Pardon the pun but ‘splash out’ on a good raincoat. Buying the VND10,000 roadside ‘body condoms’ are only good for one ride before they tear apart.” — Harry Hodge “Go back to your own country. It might be dry there.” — Niko Savvas “If you drive an old Vespa or a Lambretta, always carry spare spark plugs. Nothing’s worse than having soaked plugs when you’re caught in a rainstorm. Believe me, I

know...” — Nick Ross “There’s no greater feeling than watching other people being bothered by the rain. But I’m a pessimist. I live in a penthouse and keep a raft ready just in case.” — Devin Monaghan “I keep a fan at work in case my shoes get soaked by the rain. I can’t stand going all day with wet feet. True story.” — Gabriel Villalobos

Sh*t Happens Having recently moved into a new villa, I was feeling well pleased with the leafy green backyard and pool that I’d inherited. Then, one night during what I considered to be only a mild storm, the ‘bread-fruit’ tree that provided the most shade, and let’s face it, character to the whole garden, decided to commit suicide into the pool. No joke, it uprooted itself and covered half the pool and half the garden with debris, taking out some roof tiles, a dolphin fountain and an outdoor set of table and chairs with it. This was no sapling. Confronting this scene at three o’clock in the morning was one of the strangest things I’d ever experienced. Half expecting to find a burglar’s dead body trapped under a branch in my pool, this was my Donnie Darko

moment. I even looked up in anticipation of a falling satellite. Awakening my housemate to break the news, we were devastated that our garden would never be the same. Luckily we werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t in the pool when it happened. So look out for falling trees during the rain, drive safely and always, always, always stick to the middle of the road.

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THE BIG WET

The southern capital has an average rainfall of about 1,949 mm per year with a record high of 2,718 mm in 1908. The average number of rainy days is 159 days per year, with about 90% concentrated between May and November.Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rare that any significant rainfall is reported in January, February and March.

A TALE OF TWO CITIES

HO CHI MINH CITY

The capital averages 1,680 mm of rainfall per year, or about 140 mm per month from an average of 146 rainy days per year. The driest weather is in January when an average of only 18 mm of rainfalls and the wettest weather is in August when there is an average of 343 mm.

HANOI

VIETNAMESE MAP OF TOTAL ANNUAL RAINFALL DISTRIBUTION Total annual rainfall (mm)

2,500

2,000

Singapore (2,273 mm) Hong Kong (2,209 mm) Bombay (2,128 mm) Manila (2,049 mm) Bergen (2,075 mm) HCMC (1,949 mm) Hanoi (1,680 mm)

Hoang Sa

1,500

> 2,800

AVERAGE ANNUAL RAINFALL OF OTHER CITIES

2,400 - 2,800

Tokyo (1,524 mm) Sao Paulo (1,397 mm)

2,000 - 2,400

New York City (1,198 mm)

1,600 - 2,000

1,000

800 - 1,200 < 800

Truong Sa

500

Jakarta (1,623 mm)

Miami (1,520 mm) Phnom Penh (1,407 mm) Siem Reap (1,281 mm) Shanghai (1,143 mm)

Washington DC (1,041 mm) Milan (990 mm) Chicago (863 mm) Manchester (806 mm) Toronto (762 mm) London (736 mm) Edinburgh (660 mm) Bejing (635 mm) Berlin (584 mm) Stockholm (508 mm) Adelaide (546mm) Madrid (431mm) Los Angeles (378 mm) Dubai, Las Vegas (101 mm)

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Darwin (1,757 mm)

Doha (75 mm)

BIGGEST RECORDED FLOODS IN VIETNAM

- Aug. 1971 - The North - The Red River dyke damaged - 100,000 lives lost

- Oct. 2011 - Central - 70 either dead or missing

- Nov. 2008 - North and Central - 20 deaths in Hanoi

1971

2008

2000 - Sep. 2000 - Mekong Delta - 800 casualties, many fatal - 890,000 houses and 224,508 hectares of rice fields destroyed or damaged

DURIAN

- Sep. 2006 - Central - 590 people dead, injured or missing - 266,537 houses destroyed or damaged - 579 ships sunk

- Dec. 2006 - Binh Thuan to Can Tho - 514 dead, injured or missing - 119,300 houses destroyed or damaged - 888 ships sunk

1997 LINDA - Nov. 1997 - Binh Thuan to Ca Mau - 3,000 dead or missing - 3,500 ships destroyed

2006 2007 CHANCHU

- May 2006 - Central - 265 people dead or missing - Dozens of ships destroyed

- Sep. 2009 - Central and Highlands - 180 people dead or missing - 2,300 houses destroyed or damaged

- Mar. 2007 - Quang Binh to Ha Tinh - 61 dead or missing - 9,500 houses destroyed

MEKKHALA

- Sep. 2008 - Central - 30 people dead, injured or missing - 6,336 houses destroyed and damaged

SON TINH

KETXANA

LEKIMA

2008 2009

2013

2011

- Oct. 2013 - Central - 30 dead or missing - 220 houses destroyed or damaged - 109,452 houses flooded

- Nov. 2010 - Central - 32 people dead or missing - Thousands of houses flooded

BIGGEST RECORDED TYPHOONS HIT IN VIETNAM XANGSANE

2010

2012

- Oct. 2012 - Ninh Binh to Hai Phong - 15 dead or missing - Thousands of houses damaged

2013

CONSON

HAIYAN

- Oct. 2010 - The North - 180 people dead or missing - 303 houses damaged

- Nov. 2013 - Hai Phong to Quang Ninh - 13 dead and 81 people injured

FLOODED ZONES HO CHI MINH CITY Low-lying areas like Districts 1, 4 and 5, Do Quang Dau and Bui Vien in the backpacker area, are all prone to flooding. Downtown streets like Le Thanh Ton, Le Loi and Nguyen Hue also suffer. Outside the centre some other streets that you may have problems transiting are Huynh Tan Phat (Q7), Van Than and Lo Gom (Q6), Binh Quoi and Ngo Tat To (Binh Thanh), Kha Van Can (Thu Duc), Luong Dinh Cua (Q2), as well as Pham The Hien and Phu Dinh Quay (Q8).

HANOI Streets like Thai Thinh, Nguyen Trai and Thai Ha all have bad luck during flood season. Hoan Kiem Lake is another spot heavily affected and other black spots include Dien Bien Phu, Le Duan and Nguyen Khuyen. Streets like Nguyen Chi Thanh and Pham Huy Thong in Ba Dinh District around Ngoc Khanh Lake are usually under water for several hours when the rainfall exceeds 50mm per day. Quan Nhan, Vu Trong Phung, Nguyen Xien, Hoang Mai and Thanh Dam are also affected. Sources: wikipedia.org, dulieudiali.wordpress.com, apipnm.org

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INSIDER

NATIONAL

Australia’s Cash Cow

David Mann takes a look at how Vietnam’s appetite for beef has helped bring Aussie farmers back from the brink. Photos by Nick Ross

Some of the beef on display at Saigon’s latest specialist butcher, Meatworks

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n 2011, millions of Australians were shocked by images of animal cruelty. In graphic detail, one of the nation’s most reputable public affairs television programmes spent an entire episode uncovering the horrific abuse being inflicted on Australian cattle in Indonesian abattoirs. After gaining access to Indonesian slaughterhouses, animal rights activists secretly filmed on mobile phones images of abject and horrifying cruelty — kicking, hitting, eye gouging and tail-breaking. Poorly trained workers inflicted gashes across the beasts’ throats, struggling to kill the animals. Within the week, the government had moved to suspend all live cattle exports to Indonesia, a controversial decision that drew cheers from animal rights groups and the ire of cattle farmers across northern Australia, who argued the month-long ban would incur millions in losses and damage vital trade links. Later, in a report by the Australian Broadcasting Corporation (ABC), Emily Brett, a farmer from Waterloo Station in the Northern Territory, said the impact of the ban on the once booming trade, was devastating. “It just had a crippling effect on anyone involved in the industry and people involved in businesses that supply products to the industry... everyone was affected by it.”

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Jakarta soon responded by imposing weight limitations on Australian cows above 350kg, resulting in an even more drastic surplus. And this came at a time when farmers were also grappling with rising inventory costs and increased competition from the US and India for Indonesia’s beef market, which had been the destination for 60 percent of Australian cattle exports. To make things worse, in 2012 a crippling drought swept across central and northern Australia, exacting another heavy toll on cattle farmers. The nightly news soon flashed images of a new kind: farmers collecting dead cattle from pastures of cracked earth.

A Star on the Horizon With an urgent need to diversify their export market, Australian farmers soon looked further afield to Vietnam. Here, they discovered a hidden gold mine. Being ill-equipped to keep pace with surging meat consumption meant that Vietnam supplied only 3 percent of domestically-consumed beef. The rest arrived from overseas, either in frozen boxes or as living, breathing, mooing cows. Vietnamese farmers also faced a wall of obstacles that had seen the country’s domestic beef production wane in recent years, namely the rising cost of cattle feed, poor access to water infrastructure and

strict regulations on land management. But it was a monumental demographic shift that truly underscored the potential of this new frontier. Vietnam’s cashed up middle-class were undergoing a massive shift towards meat-rich diets. Tu Tho, a Ho Chi Minh City-based entrepreneur who has researched organic food markets across Vietnam, says the level of meat consumption has skyrocketed in Vietnam. Indeed, statistics from the Food and Agriculture Organisation of the United Nations show a seismic shift has occurred in Vietnam’s consumption of meat, with annual per capita consumption rising from just 10kg in 1990 to almost 50kg in 2010. “10 years ago families would sit down for a beef meal maybe once or twice a week. Now, parents are teaching their kids to eat it every day,” she says. “That’s a massive shift.”

Beefing it Up With Australia’s own livestock partially exempt from beef tariffs, exporters went about nurturing a new live export market, investing heavily in Vietnamese supply chains that would guarantee long-term growth and a stable and secure market for cattle farmers down under. Local partners such as Hai Phong’s Animex were also sought out as a means to safeguard demand and implement better

“It was a monumental demographic shift [in Vietnam] that truly underscored the potential of this new frontier. [The country’s] cashed up middle-class were undergoing a massive shift towards meat-rich diets” standards around hygiene and animal welfare. The result has been a gargantuan boost to Australian beef exports. According to Meat and Livestock Australia (MLA), Vietnam has now become the second largest market for Australian live cattle exports, with an astronomical 12,000 percent increase from 1,500 head of cattle in 2011 to 181,542 in 2014. Understandably (although maybe not so much in hindsight), these numbers have come as a complete shock to the industry. Earlier this year, CEO of the Northern Territory Livestock Exporters Association Ben Hindle described the numbers as “overwhelming”, given farmers had originally viewed Vietnam as a backup market to Indonesia. “There was a need for a market, a secondary market, but it was never known at that point how big it was going to get,” he told the ABC last year. Indeed, wander around the streets of any city in Vietnam, you’ll see just how big Vietnam’s appetite for beef is. Food stalls teem with beef-filled menus offering fresh bun bo and pho xao bo for as little as VND25,000, while everywhere from wet markets to supermarket chains, the selection of imported beef is expanding.

Local Operations Some analysts have expressed concern

that such explosive growth in demand for Aussie beef could overwhelm cattle growers down the track if new FTAs with China and South Korea see more cattle diverted to those markets. For now, though, Vietnamese importers are still optimistic they’re in it for the long haul, with up to a dozen investing millions of USD in new infrastructure to support the influx of Australian cattle. Red Star, which received its first shipment of Australian cows to it’s VND110 billion facility in Dak Lak Province last year, has already begun commercial production, with all of its staff trained by Australian experts to handle cows in accordance with Australia’s Exporter Supply Chain Assurance System (ESCAS) — a fact readily advertised on the packaging of Red Star’s meat products. The flagship agricultural facility has also integrated a feedlot to sustain cattle for long periods after shipment. This is meant to minimise the time between when cows are slaughtered to when beef lands on supermarket shelves (something of importance, given that Vietnam’s poor refrigeration infrastructure necessitates cows are slaughtered in-country and sold nearby). Red Star’s live export venture is also likely to become the template for other Vietnamese importers who want to build similar facilities to house Australian cattle

and guarantee supply from Australian farmers in the long term. The deputy director of the company’s live export project said the first shipment of Australian cows was an important milestone and showed just how important Australian imports have been for Vietnam. “The local people were wondering where these big cattle came from,” he told ABC Rural. “The workers here were very happy. It was the first time they’d seen the cattle, very big and very healthy.”

What is Australian Beef? Seems simple, right? Beef from Australia. But in Vietnam the line between Australian beef (bo Uc) and beef from Australian cows killed in Vietnam (also called bo Uc) has become muddied. And no, we’re not kidding. Even the price differential is an issue: beef from Australian cattle slaughtered in Vietnam is often sold at the same price as the imported version. If you want to truly make sure your beef was prepared and packaged in Australia before being exported to Vietnam, then you need to go to a trusted supplier: Classic Fine Foods and Veggies operate throughout Vietnam, while the likes of Meatworks and Tra Vy does fully accredited beef for the market in Ho Chi Minh City.

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Cover Story *They Just Aren’t Maybe you’ll find it puerile — a pack of neckless troglodytes grunting and sweating through trials of machismo. But smother the impulse to deconstruct and criticize. You’re being a dick. There’s something beautiful at work, if you’re open-minded or drunk enough to see it. Pick out an athlete and examine them closely. Look at the veins bulging in their neck. See how dark and dilated their pupils are. Watch them huff staccato breaths, and ask yourself: when was the last time you wanted anything that badly? Chop wood, everybody.

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“We are what we pretend to be, so we must be careful about what we pretend to be” — Kurt Vonnegut

S**RTS!

They’re metaphors for life and stuff

here are few human endeavours as uncannily beautiful as sports. They connect us to our inner cavemen — behaviour that would get you arrested in the real world is perfectly acceptable if done in the act of sports. Kicking strangers in the shins is fine between the lines of a football field. It’s OK to shoot rubber projectiles at a stranger’s head, provided you are both standing on ice and holding sticks. Martial artists slap people for fun. Barbaric as they may be, sports are refreshing in their simplicity. There are a thousand ways to finish an email, but only one way to finish a marathon: run the whole goddamn race. The novelist Harry Crews once said, “If you tell me you can bench press 450, hell, we’ll load up the bar and put you under it. Either you can do it or you can’t… Ultimately, sports are just about as close to what one would call the truth as it is possible to get in this world.” He was a novelist, so he must’ve been smart. We like to live in our heads. Entire industrial complexes are dedicated to making sure we stay there. Our heads can be escaped in any number of ways, but some of the most legal and easily accessible are sports. There’s a reason that terms like ‘runner’s

high’ have entered the vernacular. If you’re a sports mystic, perhaps you immediately thought of the ‘zone’, a transcendent state of being where basketball hoops seem as wide as oceans and goalkeepers are no more hindrance than the breeze. It’s the dragon chased by yogis and saints, a feeling of perfect balance, mastery without mastery. And it’s attainable through playing games, not starving yourself or sitting motionless in the woods.

SO IT GOES… Yet many people still claim to dislike sports. Their explanations are varied and occasionally hilarious. For some, the root cause might be a traumatic dodgeball incident from childhood. Others pin their disinterest on a (justifiable) loathing of sports’ hot-take culture. Or maybe they just don’t like getting sweaty. All of these people are dumb. A life without sports is no life at all. Here, it may be helpful to remember that ‘sports’ is an awfully broad term that covers everything from BMX racing to bandying a shuttlecock in the park. Chess is not a sport; neither is darts*. But any activity rooted in physicality can be a sport. Just check out the competitive woodchoppers on ESPN3. Niko Savvas wrote this article. He supports the murder of trees

Smokin'... The Saigon Saints, once known as the Saigon Smokers, have been knocking balls (and opponents) around bumpy surfaces for over two decades

“‘Training never existed, tactics were questionable, [there wasn’t even] a football league and the trophy cabinet was bare’”

THE HOME TEAM

Beer and sports. When it comes to expat pastimes, they just can’t be separated. Or can they? Words by Nick Ross

he Saigon Saints might not have been the first expat football team in Ho Chi Minh City; Olympique (‘mafia from Marseilles’) and the Saigon Raiders (‘Danish-English mongrels’) can probably claim that accolade. But when the Saints formed in 1995 they certainly had the best name — The Saigon Smokers. Fortunately for the team’s original sponsor, Dunhill, one of the two founders, Phil Worthington, is still here. He retired from football in 2005 and these days he works in market research in a brand-new office tower with centrally installed aircon and double-glazed windows. No insurance claims on that front, then. The other founder, Tomas Emmers, is somewhere else. Our guess is he works in a different industry. But like the other football teams around, The Smokers were formed with one objective: to take a break from the only leisure activity available at the time. Drinking. “In the early days, playing football was essential,” says Phil. “There wasn’t much to do except go to bars. It proved a great source of fun and I still have lifelong friends from this time.” He adds: “Training never existed, tactics were questionable, [there wasn’t even] a football league and the trophy cabinet was bare. We were, however, avid tournament participants. The highlight was our second place finish in the Bayon Challenge in 1997.” Those days are far in the past. Two decades later, smoking is now demonized (in the West) and the Saigon International Football League (SIFL) has been established almost 15 years. Saigon Saints club captain Ben Peadon is a sevenyear veteran of playing football in Vietnam. He has seen the league grow in “stature” and competitiveness. He might even have the injuries to prove it. “During my first couple of years, the league was dominated by one particular team,” he says. “Recently it has become a lot more competitive with several teams vying for the top spot. It’s more and more popular among local Vietnamese teams, with more being added over the years. The league now has 10 teams competing on a weekly basis.” He adds: “The league is [an excellent] way of bringing people together from different nationalities. That 90 minutes [on the pitch] is a great escape from the daily grind of Vietnam… But the best thing about it is the social side. It’s a great place to meet likeminded people with an appreciation for the

greatest game on earth.” Which means, of course, ending up where it all started. In the bar.

JUMPING HOOPS While male-orientated sports — think chest bumps and secret handshakes — seem to have a secondary or even primary focus on something called booze, the netball playing outfit The Hanoi Ois don’t have the same problem of ending up from whence they came. Instead, they suffer from a ‘what is netball?’ crisis. Cricket and rugby players — who also tend to come from Commonwealth nations — will sympathise. And those from the UK will tend to see netball as a women’s sport. It’s not. In Vietnam (like in countries such as Australia) it’s played by both sexes. Here’s a shortened version of a recent conversation we had in our office: Photo Editor, Kyle: What’s netball? Chief Editor, Nick: It’s like basketball, but without the bouncing. Creative Director, Mads: And when you’ve got the ball, you can’t move from your spot. You have to pass it or shoot. Photo Editor, Kyle: Really? Never heard of it. So what do you do? Nope, netball has obviously not made its way to Kyle’s hometown of San Diego, USA yet. Although they know about it in Norway, where Mads calls home. Fortunately for putting-a-ball-through-ahoop enthusiasts, it’s come to Hanoi. “The Ois have been going for six or seven years,” says Ois organiser Louise CotrelGibbons. “We’re actually the only netball club running in Hanoi (as opposed to in Ho Chi Minh City where there are about nine), so we are limited in the numbers of competitive matches we can have. We try to organise fixtures with Ho Chi Minh City and other Southeast Asian teams one to three times a year. The rest of the time we work on fitness, skills and friendly games.” Despite venue issues and the lack of a competitive league in Hanoi, and the fact that netball is a pretty “niche sport internationally”, the Ois still managed to take nine players down to the inaugural Central Vietnam Games in Danang this year for two full matches (one mixed and one ladies). “We got pretty thrashed [by the Saigon Shooters],” she says. “But we certainly didn’t make it easy for the Saigon team. It was a great weekend of friendly rivalry and teamwork.” However, playing netball in Hanoi does something more important for Louise than

just continuing a 15-year association with a sport she loves. It’s a “constant source of exercise, fun, skill development and friendship” and it also helps her keep her foot in the door with life back home. “It gives me a once-a-week familiar feeling among the hectic life here in Hanoi.”

SAFETY IN NUMBERS For those craving home and that camaraderie you can only experience with people from your own country, the cricket leagues in Vietnam might be the answer. I know, I tried it. But that was years ago in Hanoi when there was a fortnightly match between the Australians and the Indians. Australia had just sneaked past England in a tightly fought World Cup semi-final. So, I wasn’t going to play with anyone from Down Under. I chose India. Unfortunately for India, except for a knock of 23 in my first innings, I turned out to be pretty useless. Which all lends credence to the well-worn phrase, “White guys can’t play cricket.” Well, some white guys. I soon got relegated to the subs bench. But, I did get invited round to the Indian ambassador’s residence for tea. What that now defunct India versus Australia match-up did show was that when it comes to cricket, teams get organised more or less in terms of nationality. That is certainly the case with the Saigon Cricket League (Hanoi still hasn’t quite got a league, unfortunately). There are two Indian Clubs, a Pakistani Club, an English Club, an Australian Club, a Sri Lankan club and only one outfit — United Cricket Club (UCC) — that is mixed nationality. “I’m honestly not sure why the teams are largely based on nationality,” says the Vietnam Cricket Association’s, Mark Jones. “However, when we are overseas, we often tend to gravitate towards people with a similar background whether that be language, interests or occupations. Likewise with cricket, the individual countries have a unique style of playing the game and different approaches to it, which is one of the reasons I find cricket such an interesting sport.” While the national rivalries can be played out on the pitch (and even sometimes in the nets), Mark assures us that there is a lot of interaction between members of the league. “Nationality really isn’t an issue,” he says, “as we are all just individuals who love cricket.” He adds: “The camaraderie within the league is excellent. We’ve all made some

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We Woz Robbed! They did it in injury time... Australia have just undeservedly beaten South Africa in a recent, too-close-to-call Rugby Union international screened live at The Republic in Hanoi

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PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

“When it comes to the expat love of sports, you can take the sportsman out of the bar. But you can never take the bar out of the sportsman”

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“‘When we are overseas, we often tend to gravitate towards people with a similar background whether that be language, interests or occupations’” fantastic friendships with members from all of the clubs. Cricket tends to be unique in the sense that we love our sport more than players of other sports and tend to have a more encyclopedic knowledge of the game.”

BACK AT THE BAR Some expats in this country… Sorry, correct that one. Many expats in this country seem to love the bars. One such watering hole lover is jovial Belgian, Kris Goetghebeur. Always ready with a laugh, his right-arm exercise comes in more than just the form of lifting a glass of Tiger Draught to his lips about 100 times a night. He’s a darts player, and while fortunately for the general public he doesn’t rate his skills with sharp implements, he’s pretty devoted to his second most favourite pastime. A committee member of the Saigon International Darts League (SIDL), for Kris and the members of the league’s 23 teams (there are now three divisions), Tuesday nights are sacred. So sacred, in fact, that he has a permanent Tuesday-night babysitter (his mother-in-law) booked from just after Tet all the way through to December. “It all started in 1998 with just two bars playing against each other on Tuesdays,” he recalls. “Those bars were Ice Blue Pub on Dong Khoi and the former Gecko bar of the late Michael Keung on Hai Ba Trung.” Unlike physically challenging sports — you can count tiddlywinks out of that one — darts is as much a social event as it is a sport. “Beers and darts are a good match for a fun evening,” explains Kris when asked about his arm-wrestling prowess. “It is just a relaxing Tuesday evening out to throw some darts, have some beers. Vietnamese players started adding slowly, first through girlfriends and wives of players and then some bar staff to make up the teams. There is a now a 100 percent Vietnamese ladies team,

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called ACDC.” There are also a number of excellent Vietnamese darters including the ‘veteran’ Guppy Liem, who has been with the league from nearly the beginning, as well as Mr. Dung Acceptable, who is one of the founders. “The relationship between expats and Vietnamese is very good, we are just all darts lovers. Xu, the cook from Ice Blue Pub, is currently the Vietnamese male national champion and Thuy is the female national champion for this year. There is a good respect between all of us.”

OUT OF SIGHT, OUT OF MIND Fortunately, for those of us not into sharp implements, it’s good to know that the bars in this country aren’t just for darters. They’re also for televised sports enthusiasts, the kind of people who prop up the bar, eyes glued to obscenely sized TV screens, most often with drinking and sports-watching companions in tow. Man behind the scenes at The Republic, Chris Vella, should know. The grand fromage of one of Hanoi’s most successful sports-cum-comfort food bars, his screens are home to any sport with an acronym — AFL, NBA, NFL, NHL, EPL, MMA — all the way through to rugby league and rugby union. “Most expats come for the different sports,” he explains. “Americans for the NBA and NFL, for example. But our biggest grouping of mixed expats is the rugby union. The Hanoi Dragons have a diverse team with members from Australia, New Zealand, America, Pakistan, Ireland and England. The Rugby World Cup coming up in September will be huge. Different nationalities will come to The Republic to watch their countries play. The rivalry is fun,

with most of the expats there just to be a part of the atmosphere the game creates.” However, when asked about the connection between sport and beer, he says it’s one he “doesn’t really want to think about”. “[I guess] it’s a long tradition, especially in Australia,” he says. “A good group of people watching sport and having a few drinks in a good environment is a match made in heaven.” Saigon-based quantity surveyor, Sam Dawson, agrees. A follower of everything from rugby and AFL all the way through to Formula 1, MotoGP and MMA, while he will keep an eye on the results of “a big football game involving the national team or sometimes check out the Saigon Heat scores,” for him it’s all about watching the sports he loves. In particular it’s about watching these sports over a beer with friends — the social connection forms an integral part of being an expat overseas. “It makes it more interesting to be able to discuss what’s happening with other people who understand and are interested in what is going on,” he says. English teacher and cross-the-board sports lover, James Parry, hits a different note. “I love Vietnam,” he says. “But sometimes I need to forget about the chaos of the place and come back to what’s familiar. Sports, bars and beer. The combination works perfectly. There’s something comforting about it all.” Which brings us to a solid conclusion. When it comes to the expat love of sports, you can take the sportsman out of the bar. But you can never take the bar out of the sportsman. To get involved in expat sports, turn to our listing sections. Alternatively, just head to a bar with lots of large TV screens and beer on tap

PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

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IN A SPIN Well, not quite. You’ve got to have a strong neck for that one and a head made of iron. But if you do like the B-Boy or B-Girl tip, it’s goin’ on throughout the whole country. To become part of a crew, then get the moves in first. DanceSpace in Saigon (dancespacevn.com) offer up weekly classes as does Inspirato (inspirato. edu.vn). In Hanoi head to California Fitness (cfyc.com.vn) or, if you’re there on the right night, Lenin Park. Although don’t expect classes.

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PHOTO BY KYLE PHANROY

ROCK, SPIN ‘N ROLL

Sports in Vietnam. It ain’t all football and tiddlywinks, you know. Here are a few of the other multitude of sporting activities you can do in this country. wordvietnam.com | August 2015 Word | 63

PHOTO BY KYLE PHANROY

OFF ROADINâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; IT Hanoi is a place of large lakes, small alleyways and oversized bikes. The perfect combination, right? Apparently not, which is why a motocross racing track opened last year in An Duong. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also a private track in Soc Son and motocross Facebook groups like SMC Hanoi MX talking shop on Facebook (they do actually do some riding). Some avid riders (and buffalo cart racers) even take to the beach on the Au Co end of the Red River for a touch of off-road fun.

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Where can boys and girls kill each other with guns without actually doing any killing? No, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not talking about nerf guns in the swimming pool. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re talking about on the paintballing field of course. What first entered this country thanks to some enterprising Russians living in Mui Ne has since spread to both Hanoi (galaxyhunter.com. vn) and Saigon (paintball. asia) with even a course conveniently out at Cu Chi Tunnels.

PHOTO BY FRANCIS XAVIER

PAINTBALL

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LIFE’S A ROCK Or so says VietClimb (vietclimb.vn), the Hanoibased rockclimbing outfit. With a bouldering gym close to West Lake, a pro shop and regular rockclimbing trips out to the likes of Hung Luu, here’s a place to get your teeth into all those carabiners, slings and harnesses you’ve been dreaming about. Saigonites, don’t worry. We promise you haven’t been left out. There’s an X-Rock climbing wall at Phan Dinh Phung Sports Centre in District 3, and local legends Push Climbing (pushclimbing.com) are scoping out a return. Apparently they’re soon to be scaling the walls of Saigon Outcast.

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PHOTO BY NGUYEN LE

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GYM RELAPSE Devin Monaghan goes to the gym. It’s a man thing

“A purpose of human life, no matter who is controlling it, is to love whoever is around to be loved.” — Kurt Vonnegut

PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

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eightlifting is a lot like writing: babies suck at it. Writers face a blank page, tasked with filling it with meaning. Many of us are the same way with our bodies. We can attach meaning to ourselves, either with fat, muscle or ink. Each has its own story. Today’s story is chest day. The most pointless of all days, but the easiest. And always go with ‘easy’ when you’re relapsing. I’ve been clean from the exercise itch for two weeks, and that first day back after a hiatus can be tough. Through my research for this article, I discovered that going to the gym is in many ways different from a heroin addiction. Some people go to the gym for a long time, and then stop for whatever reason, and just never start doing so again. That’s rather rare with opiates. That’s why when I relapse back into exercise, I start with whatever is easiest, and what comes easy in life is often the most useless. Except for impressing girls and some guys, pecs have no functional value. Triceps, yes, those can come in handy for throwing stiff-arms in traffic, but not much else. Important point: building your body does not make you a body builder. Keep that in mind with every word of mine you read.

GO GINGER MAN, GO! I go to a small gym in my apartment complex. It’s terrible value for money, but at least I can tell people that I jog to my gym. “Is that for extra exercise?” “Sure.” It costs VND70,000 per visit, which is borderline fraud for what they offer, but it’s close, convenient, and the cost makes me angry enough that I can skip my preworkout supplement. Gym experiences vary. Some of you still reading are noticing that there are some quirks in my workout philosophy. That’s because I don’t care, which gives me the freedom to skip leg day guilt-free. It also gives me the courage to not care that I have

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to halve the weights on the bench press after the last lady used it. Not caring is the first step towards getting good at something. Not the only step, because then that’s how to suck at something forever. What are your goals for working out? Some of you may know people who just go to the gym to show off how fit they already are. To me, this is like getting a PhD in philosophy. My goals are simple: build muscle so I look less s*****. A buff ginger is less unattractive than a feeble ginger (although thanks to that British singer songwriter, Ed Sheeran, us ginger boys are back on the map again). Hardly inspirational, but I’m not going to ruin my life by laying off butter. But I can feel better about using it in soup if I do leg day. Also, curse leg day. I teach, and to teach, I must stand. Every school day is leg day, whereas my class really has to go awry for me to resort to my upper body strength for teaching. Further, yoga is for women and old people, which is to say: it is for people who are generally much wiser than me. I’m simple: push this, pull that, don’t bite those. I’m not doing this for health. I’m don’t even do this to double my negligible chances of getting laid. I just want to enjoy my butter soup without guilt. Remember, exercise is a verb, not a noun. Hmm, I should have that tatted somewhere on my increasingly swoll body. But I have to be careful, as I’m getting so strong that I might get a bruise from patting myself on the back so hard.

NOT GOOD FOR CHICKENS (OR TUNA FISH)

Working out is much like breathing, or not s******* your pants: trying matters more than technique. I know some of you just spit out your morning protein shake reading that last sentence, but it’s true. My slovenly roommate could have excellent posture for planks, but since he doesn’t try, it doesn’t matter. Friends helped me get better technique,

but when someone came up to me and said I wasn’t doing an esoteric exercise correctly, I gestured between him and I, and told him he wasn’t doing this correctly, then offered some pointers on proper human interaction. “So you don’t get hurt,” I said, then blew him a kiss, and let him decide where he wanted to take our encounter from there. Later, I looked up proper technique on YouTube, and corrected the issue myself. People who come to me with unsolicited advice are usually right, but the number of times I’ve ignored advice out of spite is closer to infinity than it is to zero. I know I’m not doing all the exercises right, but saying 2+2=5 is more accurate than responding to the question with a series of smells, or not responding at all. People say, “But improper technique is how you get injured.” No, it isn’t. Trying too hard is how you get injured. Seriously, look up the statistics. Speaking of statistics, many chickens have died for my biceps. Think about that next time you’re on Saigon’s Bui Vien or in Hanoi’s Old Quarter and see a half-shirtless bro with bulging muscles: chances are, he got that way through hard work, dedication and 300 grams of animal cruelty a day. Also, if I have time, an anecdote on how I only do this for vanity and butter related reasons: the last time I worked out, the employees were shifting the gear around, for better Feng Shui (my word processor marks this phrase as a typo, because even it recognises that Feng Shui is not real). I tried not to dwell on how here were these smaller Vietnamese dudes getting paid to lift stuff, while I was paying for the privilege to lift stuff. They were struggling with some of the larger machines, and I did nothing to help. I could’ve made their day way easier, and I was there to exercise anyway, but I just kept doing lat pull downs like an ass, thus proving, there is no functional use to my muscles. I drank a lot later that night. Devin likes to do stand-up comedy. He’s also likes butter. If you’re lucky you may see him on stage doing his damnedst to make you laugh. You might even see him in a classroom

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hen you think of this country’s gyms, many things spring to mind: fat men pointlessly trying to reduce the flab, women carrying out market conversations on treadmills, people blow-drying their armpits in the changing rooms, and way too much mint oil in the sauna. What we often forget is the small segment of gym goers — and we’re not just talking about the trainers — who are true athletes. Striking a subtle balance between body and mind, for these people gym work is not just about being body beautiful or having something to boast about to their friends. It’s about lifestyle; a choice to follow a certain path. Muscly, sweaty and intense, being in good shape has little to do with creating a fashion statement (or blow-drying your armpits). It’s about hard work, diet, drive and precision. Most of all, it’s about excelling, achieving goals and looking after yourself.

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BODIES IN MOTION Kyle Phanroy heads to the gym to track four athletes as they box, lift and kick their way to glory

Le Hoang Age: 30 Height: 1m68 Weight: 90kg

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Tran Trung Thinh Age: 17 Height: 1m71 Weight: 76kg

Camilla Blom Age: 24 Height: 1m65 Weight: 52kg

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Mai Van Khoa Age: 30 Height: 1m78 Weight: 77kg

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eci

al (fo thank xfit nes s to F o scl ub. x Fitn us v e to tak n) for ss C l et he allow ub se ph ing oto s

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ILLUSTRATIONS BY VU HA KIM VY

“The insane, on occasion, are not without their charms.” — Kurt Vonnegut

THAT’S NOT A REAL S**RT Get off Niko Savvas’ lawn. He likes his grass just as it is, thank you very much

W *Are different sports popular where you grew up? That’s fascinating. Well, not so much as ‘fascinating’ as ‘totally bloody irrelevant’. But still.

hen your correspondent was a boy, there were four Respectable Sports (note the capital ‘R’ and capital ‘S’): baseball, basketball, American football and hockey*. Any red-blooded youth of a certain age was expected to enjoy at least one. In addition, there were a smattering of SemiRespectable Sports (note the continued

usage of capitals) like tennis, soccer and golf. If you enjoyed one of these, you were weird, but acceptably so. There was also a shadowy underworld of Un-Sports (yup, more capitals) like skateboarding and martial arts, seemingly unrelated disciplines that nevertheless had marvelous penchants for attracting nutjobs. The hierarchy was helpful in many ways.

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The sports a person enjoyed, or didn’t enjoy, could tell you quite a lot. A person who enjoyed American football was most likely a sociopath, aroused by violent collisions between armoured men in the world’s least-subtle metaphor for tactical ground war. American football fans were maniacally devoted to their teams, from high school to professional. They wore their zealotry on their backs, proudly advertising their allegiance through officially licensed merchandise. It was helpful to have such an easy way to pick out idiots. These days, though, the idiots are better camouflaged. And they’re into way weirder stuff than American football. And we’re not talking about rugby.

A GROWING CONCERN The past decade has seen a worrisome diversification of the sporting universe. Blame can be placed at the feet of the usual suspects: the internet, cable TV, computer games etc. Pointing fingers is fun and lucrative, but it does little to stop the spread of this athletic epidemic. Consider the case of Hardcourt Bike Polo. First played in Seattle in the early 2000s, this pseudo-sport quickly swept the globe. Today it has infected more than 300 cities in 30 countries. A contemporary bastardisation of traditional culture, it takes everything awesome about polo — horses, British accents, Ralph Lauren — and replaces it with a plebe-friendly mimesis as tacky as it is inauthentic. While Vietnam is no early adopter of global trends**, it hasn’t been immune to similarly perfidious fads. As always, the problem can be traced to foreign influences. While Vietnamese sportsfolk once were content to slap their shuttlecocks around the alley, today they dabble in darker indulgences from abroad.

BROOMSTICKS AND BACKFLIPS

** How’s the 4G coming along, guys? ***Your correspondent makes no apologies for poisoning that cat.

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These days, your correspondent can scarcely leave the house without some reckless hoodlum leapfrogging over his back at full tilt, then clambering up a drainage pipe to prance from roof to roof. The kids call it ‘parkour’, though your correspondent knows it by its true name: anarchy. And its adherents are growing in power and influence, threatening to consume the wide world of sports.

They are the new urban guerrillas, blurring the lines between athlete and civilian. They wear no uniforms or insignia. They carry no equipment that might betray their intentions. One minute you’re waiting for the bus beside a mild-mannered student — the next, she’s doing cartwheels over parked taxis, spinning around streetlights, and running up walls for no goddamn reason. Parkouristas aren’t the only menace facing the traditional sportosphere, though. Even in Vietnam, you can’t swing a dead cat*** without its mangy tail brushing against a group of weirdos united under the pretense of sport. Perhaps the best example of this is Saigon’s burgeoning Quidditch scene. Every week, hordes of grown-ass adults gather to run around with broomsticks between their legs, playing an imaginary game for imaginary wizard-spawn in an imaginary boarding school. It’s madness, but madness is the new normal. The league has 47,000 likes on Facebook. Yet these wannabe witches and warlocks are surprisingly hard to distinguish from normal people, once they leave the pitch. They trade their capes for Crocs and their wands for WhatsApp, and nobody’s the wiser. Your spouse could be a Quidditch player and you’d never even know.

STANDING ATHWART HISTORY, YELLING ‘MEH’ In this paradoxical age of ever-increasing individuality and concatenation, can our favourite sports still say anything about who we are? Do the old taxonomies even apply? Is an American football fan still a brute, and are grown-up kickball players still nerds? Yes. Trends pass with the seasons, but some truths are eternal. Basketball will always be cool, because dunking a ball through a 10-foot hoop is dope as f***. Conversely, buzkashi will never be cool, because fondling the carcass of a headless goat is gross. We should remember the true purpose of sports — to keep nerds in their place, and to give people with nice asses an excuse to wear spandex. Someday we will return to our collective senses, and the dark days of competitive bog snorkeling will be forgotten. You can’t spell ‘fade’ without ‘fad’, and doesn’t that say it all? Nerds, wizards and free runners — send your complaints to bahaha@blowme.com

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Insider

INSIDER

HCMC

The Gecko’s Revenge After printing the wrong picture two issues ago, this was touted as the grudge match of the summer — at least by us anyway. Saigon Rugby Club vs. Word Magazine in an all-out paintball war. Jon Aspin was in the thick of the action for Word, and afterwards filed this report from a nearby safety bunker. Photos by Francis Xavier The Game They Play in Heaven When the 18th century poet Alexander Pope wrote those famous words; “To err is human; to forgive, divine”, we’re pretty sure he’d never had an incorrect photo of his village Quoits* team published in the 1712 Windsor Times**. Perhaps if he had, he might not have been so quick to forgive, and the course of literary history would be different. On the other hand, Alexander Pope was a hunchback with chronic tuberculosis; playing village Quoits might not have been his strong suit. The point is, as reporters for Word, we

hold ourselves to a high level of journalistic integrity***. Most things are researched, fact-checked**** and proofed to within an inch of their lives, but sometimes we are also like hunchbacks with brittle bones. We find stairs difficult. That and single-scull rowing — everything else is fine. We are irrefutably human, so we do ‘err’, and in our June issue this year, (Looking for Love, June 2015) we did exactly that, when a combination of dengue fever, an absent editor and a rookie mistake, all led us to printing the wrong photo. The wrong photo was in a Harry Hodge (conspicuously absent on this day) piece

* Medieval ‘hooky’ ** Made up newspaper title but likely a ‘hoighty toighty’ gossip rag somewhere in London

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about the Saigon Geckos Rugby Club — who said we wouldn’t name names? Tasked with capturing the Geckos’ moment of Indochine Cup glory back in May, we printed a photo of the Hanoi Dragons instead. Go figure. One man’s pleasure is another man’s pain, and our friends in the capital loved it.

Passing the Buck In search of some ‘divine forgiveness’ for our scandalous oversight, apologies were printed, emails were sent, and an investigation***** was launched. Internally there were a few heads in hands and a serious amount of buck-passing,

*** This story is brought to you by Mr. Singhâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Curry House & Car Wash in District 2, HCMC. Hi Mum! **** We pay hungry backpackers VND1,000 per Google search term

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“Tasked with capturing the Geckos’ moment of Indochine Cup glory back in May, we printed a photo of the Hanoi Dragons instead. Go figure. One man’s pleasure is another man’s pain, and our friends in the capital loved it”

but let’s face it, a whole lot of giggles too, before the idea of a grudge-match was born. Yes, Word would throw out the olive branch for a chance at what Pope and his cronies would probably call poetic justice — we would play a paintball match at Saigon Paintball in Ho Chi Minh City’s District 2. Unsure of exactly what it would prove, or if it would even happen, when it did, I caught up with several of the combatants over ‘prewar’ refreshments. I asked them about their strategy, team line-ups and their opinion of the standard of journalism here.

Lineout

Gecko stalwart and this month’s front cover star Antoine Goupille, (sporting a very ‘ontrend’ black eye and pirate beard) was at first diplomatic about our goof. He quickly warmed to his task, though, especially when I asked him what he saw as our paintball weakness. “Your whole team,” he replied, with what can only be described as Gallic understatement. He then pointed out the difference between ***** We all sat around and blamed Harry.

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a gecko and a dragon graphically, drawing a picture in the air like a nursery school teacher — talk about things that would have been useful yesterday, Antoine. This caused our within-earshot and previously dengue fever-struck photo editor, Kyle Phanroy to retort about our opposition, “They look like a bunch of p*******!”. Immediately making up for his diminutive stature with such a pugnacious remark, I’d never felt prouder of my colleague. He then offered his own paltry excuse for the photo mix-up. “I was in hospital at the time, with four bags of saline solution getting pumped into my IV due to the dehydration — because that’s how I like to party man — so yeah, I really didn’t give a f***!” Well said Kyle, paintball nirvana awaits you.

Fearless Minister of Fun and Happiness at the Geckos, Mr. Joe ‘Poetry in Motion’ Eastwood, had a few choice comments of his own. Unfortunately not many were printable,

but among the rest was a strategy statement that was pretty succinct. “Head then balls,” he kept saying, drawing an imaginary line between his head and… you get it. This drew laughs from surrounding teammates, many of whom were already imbibing large quantities of ‘soda’, for what they described as ‘battlefield courage’. Clearly this was subterfuge, a ploy to numb the pain we were about to inflict, so the Word team took confidence from the Geckos early bravado — kind of. Looking for some inspiration before war, I interviewed my own editor, Nick Ross. Eyeing up the 15-strong squad of rugby players who had descended on the event, Nick looked worried, and not just about the price of paintballs. His next words were so English I laughed. What other race of people, who when faced with a sporting challenge so steep and daunting, would react with something like what Nick said next: “I think we might get whipped”. Not exactly the Churchill-esque battle cry I was looking for. Fellow Wordies Vu Ha Kim Vy and Rachel

Cabakoff were equally realistic — if a little confused. Neither could work out if they were excited, scared, intimidated or happy. Let’s just settle on scared. There were a lot of emotions flying during the pre-game banter, as well as a lot of refreshments.

Fifth Tackle In the end, it was pure chaos, and no one really knows what happened, least of all this reporter. As ‘captain’ of my team I was supposed to be showing leadership and shouting commands, but as the ‘bullets’ rained in on me, all of that went out of the window. I focused on not getting hurt, at least not too badly, so all I know is that a lot of paintballs got exploded, including a bunch all over me. Far be it from me to cry foul, but there was definitely some friendly fire in there too. More ‘soda’ got drunk, and I think we decided on a two games to one result for the Geckos, but that was much of a muchness. In the first game Word got pinned down and hammered, while in the next two we fared much better, and there was respect

gained in fighting hard against a far superior opponent. In between games and at the end of the day’s entertainment, it was clear that it had been a victory for sport — I had to get one cliché in here. Everyone who came had a great time, and while forgiveness was never really the issue, Word-Gecko relations have never been stronger than now. Notable performers were Vy, who earned a purple heart for taking one in the face during combat, and 11-year-old Caitlin who bravely took on the role of Word general in our last match-up. Meanwhile, Phil ‘Body and Temple’ Kelly was controversially accused by his own team mates of hiding out, and cherry-picking softer opponents ******. Stay tuned next month, when we print the wrong photo of the entire Swedish royal family, and challenge them to a naked sauna-off in Stockholm’s most expensive spa. Paintball Saigon is at 14-18 Street 11, An Phu, HCMC. They have a website, too — check them out at paintball.asia ******Anyone in a yellow uniform.

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Insider

PHOTO ESSAY

NATIONAL

The Ballerina In the first of our monthly photo essays, we track the work of photographer Kyanh Tran

o Hai Anh started dance lessons when she was 12 years old, graduating from dance school in 2008. Although she dances a range of styles, in this collection by photographer Kyanh Tran, she is portrayed as a ballet dancer: graceful, passionate and elegant. Kyanh’s idea for the photo shoot was simple. “I like mirrors, reflections and glass,” he says. “When you look at yourself in a mirror, it’s like you’re seeing your soul, and all your feelings.” He has carried this concept through to these photos. None of the images were shot directly or straight on. Instead they were taken through a mirror, through the use of reflection and cracked glass. To see more of Kyanh’s work go to facebook. com/sandalephoto

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Food and Drink

TOP EATS

HANOI

Papa Roma With our mystery diner taking a well-needed summer hiatus, this month we send Noey Neumark to Hanoi’s latest purveyor of the mighty pizza, Papa Roma. Photos by Julie Vola

izza is the most important food group. Pizza can cure bad days, hangovers, heartaches, and calcium deficiencies, and Hanoi now has a pizza-by-the-slice joint to conveniently feed our pizza needs. Opened in May by Gianfranco Stella, Papa Roma fills a singlesliced pizza with heart. Stella knows what he’s doing when it comes to pizza, and he knows that the secret to good Italian food lies in quality ingredients. Yet, despite the fact that Stella imports the tomatoes and cheese from his native Italy, the prices remain reasonable.

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The Drinks (VND35,000 to VND45,000) We start off with two refreshing juices, a virgin passion fruit mojito and the vibrant red nectar of a man tuyet, a fruit similar to a plum. Both are perfect, though the man tuyet’s tart yet smooth richness is unlike anything I’ve ever tasted — I love the thick froth that floats on the top.

The Slices (VND40,000 to VND60,000) Size: 10cm x 20cm I then work my way through the full parade of pizza options, starting with the classic margarita, lined with a row of fresh basil leaves — music to my mouth. After that, on

to the diavola, a slice dotted with spicy salami and sprinkled with parsley. I then grandly conclude with the prosciutto e funghi, boasting a mountain of smoked ham and sautéed mushrooms. Because pizza is so basic — “a simple dish for simple people,” as Stella explains — a good slice of pizza must nail each ingredient to a T. He continues. The pizza’s backbone, the crust is the foundation that carries each slice to the finish line. Papa Roma’s crust is thick enough to add a chewy texture to each bite, but thin enough to ensure a bit of crispiness. Rising up from the crust, we find ourselves at the tomato sauce

and cheese. The Italian mozzarella forms a delicate blanket over the sweet sauce, and spills over the edges just enough to crisp up in crunchy, salty bites that punctuate the pizza’s edge. Last but not least are the toppings. Says Stella, a person’s topping preference depends on their mood, and Papa Roma’s menu suits a range of pizza desires. You can’t go wrong with any of the three we tried, and I’d bet that any of the other options would hit out of the park, too. I drool — probably noticeably — when Stella speaks about the paccino piccante, topped with cherry tomatoes in a spicy balsamic sauce.

Not Pizza If you’re not a pizza person (do you even exist?), or if you’re just not in the mood, there are other viable options on the menu. The tuna salad (VND70,000) isn’t something to write home about, but the focaccia and homemade vinaigrette certainly are. You can also order the focaccia sandwiched around meats and cheeses. My meal, however, concludes with al dente spaghetti and clams (VND85,000), all lightly tossed in tomato sauce. It’s that kind of simple Italian dish that makes you want to blow a kiss at someone, and it tastes even better when sprinkled with parmesan, though Stella scowls

when I make that request (“On seafood!? Ay no!”). Papa Roma’s slices are modeled after traditional Roman ‘pizza by the cut’, which is meant to be eaten quickly, on the go. However, whether you sit at the wooden tables pushed to the side of Food Street or take your meal upstairs to the dining room, the space is bright and inviting. It has just the right amount of colour and kitsch, meaning this is the kind of place perfect for whiling away some time. Papa Roma is at 4B Ngo Cam Chi, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, just off Food Street. This August they are opening a Saigon outlet in Phu My Hung at SD4-1 My Khang, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7

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Food and Drink

STREET SNACKER

HANOI

Bun Bo Nam Bo A beef noodle dish that comes from the south but is popular in Hanoi? You’re joking, right? Words by Huyen Tran. Photos by Julie Vola

n a recent newspaper interview, celebrity chef Luke Nguyen said that the most clichéd view of people around the world about Vietnamese food is that Vietnam only has a few dishes. I feel likewise, especially about Hanoi’s cuisine. Many foreign travellers associate Hanoi with pho, spring rolls and grilled fish. But there are many kinds of food in the capital. One example is bun bo nam bo, mixed dry noodles with stir-fried beef. Local people eat bun bo nam bo for any meal. The dish is popular in summer and the name means Southern-style beef noodles. Bun bo nam bo in Hanoi is similar to bun thit bo xao in the South, which is fresh bun noodles cooked up with stir-fried beef (these days the southern variation substitutes the beef with pork and is known simply as bun thit xao). Both versions are enjoyed without a broth but mixed with fresh vegetables and sauces instead. Yet, the two dishes differ in the way the meat and sauce are prepared, as well as the types of vegetables included.

Rumour and Legend Nobody really knows when bun bo nam bo first appeared in Hanoi or how bun thit bo xao ‘migrated’ to the capital city. There’s a rumour that the dish was brought back to the capital by troops who returned from Saigon after 1975. A shop called Bun Bo Nam Bo (67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem) is said to offer the best version of bun bo nam bo in Hanoi. According to legend, this was one of the very first eateries to sell bun bo nam bo in Hanoi. Says the owner, Phuong, who is now in her 60s: “It was around the early 1980s and even before that when I first heard about the dish. Yet, it was not until I went to Saigon and had a chance to eat bun thit bo xao

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that I became so engrossed in it that I tried to make it and sell it in Hanoi. I opened this shop on Hang Dieu in 1987.” While the price is a bit more expensive than elsewhere, her offering is known for its soft and perfectly seasoned beef. When a diner orders, a zesty stir-fry of marinated beef hot from the wok is put on top of the dry noodles. The layer beneath includes different types of vegetables. Dressed with sauce and topped with roasted peanuts and fried shallots, the flavours of bun bo nam bo are clean, fresh and restorative, perfect for sweaty weather.

Complex Fare While the preparation seems to be simple, the recipe itself calls for a variety of ingredients and according to Hanoians “the simpler the dish, the harder it is to get right”. “If you notice, the sauce has the same spirit at that used in bun cha,” says Phuong. “Also, the way the beef is sliced, then marinated and stir-fried is totally different from how it is done in the South. From the first day, I knew that if I copied the same recipe of bun thit xao in Saigon, I would fail.” Thanks to her tireless market research, she later decided to cater to Hanoian taste buds by adding Vietnamese ham and fermented pork rolls to the menu as condiments. Says Phuong, “Even though the sauce simply consists of fish sauce, sugar, lemon and chilli, which is the same across the two regions, the difference between the two bun bo dishes is very obvious. Personally, I think the dishes are completely different. Let’s also not forget to mention the regional modification, or the variation in the way each restaurant combines the elements. This also helps differentiate each bun bo nam bo restaurant in Hanoi.” Bun Bo Nam Bo is located at 67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem. A bowl costs VND60,000

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Food and Drink MYSTERY DINER

HCMC

MAD House

Hideaway restaurants are either the business or a terrible failure. Our undercover reviewer checked out District 2’s MAD House to see which way the wind would blow. Photos by Kyle Phanroy

n an editorial meeting, our Norwegian creative director told us: “Mad means food in Danish.” I had always wondered how MAD House had got its name. Considering that the owners and investors were Danish, suddenly it made sense. It was one of those, “aah, that’s why” moments. You see, I’d first headed down to MAD House just after it opened. I’d liked the place — with its leafy garden atmosphere and dark wood, rustic-styled furnishings, it was difficult not to. This District 2 villa converted into a restaurant is easy on the eye. Fan-cooled and with a focus on al fresco dining (there’s also an aircon, indoor space), it seemed to fit the pseudo Mediterranean setting so popular in

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this area. But I’d wondered. First was the name. Mad, barmy, insane, rash, reckless. Where was the method to the madness (pun intended)? Second was the location. Tucked down an alley behind the Arsenal soccer pitch on Thao Dien’s ‘in between’ road, that thoroughfare connecting the main drag with Riverside Apartments and ISHCMC on the other side, would the hideaway location quite literally conceal this eatery, bar and café from view? My latest visit would provide evidence that name and location were not proving a bane. Rather, I found myself in a restaurant and chill-out venue that seemed to have its mid-range, comfort food menu on a solid footing. I also discovered

a place that demonstrated an almost obsessive eye for detail. From the tiny salt and pepper jars to the chicken coop-like lampshades and mozzy repellent placed on the outdoor tables at night, MAD House is a restaurant created and run with a lot of love. It’s great to see.

Now for the Food Comfortably settled in the garden area with my dining partner, we went for two starters. Both seafood. And both excellent, although I did have some slight quibbles. Served on a wooden chopping board over mounds of salt, the scallops with garlic and chilli butter (VND150,000) were melt-inyour-mouth sublime, each of the six crustaceans hitting the buttery spot. The only thing, I couldn’t

THE VERDICT

14 FOOD

SERVICE

13 DÉCOR

taste the chilli. Yet this dish was so good that the chilli seemed like an unnecessary addition. The baby octopus, goats cheese, arugula and potato salad (VND175,000) came with a moreish tomato relish and was a dish that married different types of textures with finesse. From the tender consistency of the octopus to the crunch of the arugula, with the softness of the potatoes and goats cheese in between, the mix and taste was just about spot on. My only quibble: the strength of the goat’s cheese dwarfed the subtlety of the octopus. I have a thing about Galician-style octopus, a dish with a lovely, salty pang. Maybe it was my expectations that were wrong: we ate every last morsel. The mains were beef, beef and

more beef, my partner opting for the Australian flank steak cooked with wild pepper, shallot, garlic and thyme (VND265,000), all served up with an extra portion of thick-cut fries. Cooked to a perfect medium rare and smothered in a subtle pepper sauce — yes, pepper that was actually subtle — this offering just goes to show how you don’t have to have the ‘best’ cuts of beef to make a good steak. This beef was tender, melt in your mouth. And as for the fries… So nice to go somewhere that actually gets them right. My beef tartar with cornichon, onion, capers, egg yolk, mustard, herb and French fries (VND275,000) was tart but sweet, soft yet crunchy, with a powerful yet not overwhelming aftertaste of mustard.

I was full halfway through, so good were the starters, but I loved every mouthful — proof that you don’t need to be a Gallic-influenced restaurant to serve up your beef raw. Washed down with a glass of red wine — both the wine list and selection of international imported beers were commendable — I left this dining establishment feeling more than satisfied. The bill wasn’t over the top, either: VND1.2 million for the lot including a digestif. There is a plethora of mediocre restaurants in this town. Tripling up as a restaurant, a café and a bar, MAD House is a member of the growing cohort that sits a few levels above. MAD House is at 6/1/2 Nguyen U Di, Q2, HCMC or at facebook.com/ madsaigon

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15. 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

Food and Drink

STREET SNACKER

HCMC

The Disappearance of the Hu Tieu Stand Vi Pham goes in search of one of Saigonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most iconic street dishes, hu tieu. Photos by Kyle Phanroy

o luxurious furniture. No soft music or subtle lighting. No nothing. Just the simple, no-frills hu tieu go stand on the corner of the street. Just the tac tac sound of kids roaming the streets, spoons tapping on a piece of bamboo, searching for customers. And then the delivery of that steaming bowl of Chinese noodle soup with pork, right to your door. That is hu tieu go, once an iconic, everyday feature of Saigon. But when was the last time you spotted a hu tieu stand around town? And when was the last time you heard that tapping sound?

From Banh Mi to Hu Tieu Hu tieu stands featured heavily in my childhood: the sound, the taste, the

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stand-to-door delivery. I miss those nights staying up late with my mum, slurping away at the steamy noodles while saving the best slices of meat until last. Yet the origin of hu tieu go (go = tapping) remains a mystery. One story is that it came to Saigon with the Khmer Chinese when they fled Cambodia in the late 1970s. This form of hu tieu is called hu tieu nam vang. But no-oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s quite sure; the hu tieu nam vang in Phnom Penh tastes completely different to its version in Vietnam. Another oddity is that most stand owners come from Quang Ngai in Central Vietnam. Yet go to Quang Ngai and hu tieu is just not on the menu. What I do remember was that if banh mi thit ruled Saigon street food during the day, then at night it was the hu tieu stands. A typical stand would carry a simple coal stove, a big

pot of boiling broth, dried noodles, slices of meat and other additional ingredients. There are other signature street dishes that remind me of Old Saigon, but hu tieu go was always at the top of the list with its reasonable price, rich nutrition value and tempting taste. With this dish also come stories, the kind of stories shared between people in the quiet and peaceful atmosphere of late night Saigon.

Nostalgia With my memories firmly in place, I decided to search out what hu tieu stands remain in this city. I was also determined to find out more about a recent bout of bad press that may have accelerated the disappearance of this dish. The first time the media noted the demise of hu tieu go was in 2013, when unknown online sources accused stand owners of cooking the broth from rats and worms. The reports caused outrage, and even though the authorities came out in public to defend the stand owners, the rumours remained. Business was already suffering a downturn, but this only made it worse. As one stand owner on Le Hong Phong told me, “It is not expensive to cook broth from vegetables and pork ribs. So, why do we have to waste time trapping the rats? It does not make sense at all.” On my journey around the city I ignored Districts 1 and 3 — where the stands are all but non-existent — and instead went to the city’s more suburban areas like Districts 2, 11 and Tan Phu. I hit gold in a number of places, but when

I asked around to find the oldest and the largest group of hu tieu stand owners on Ba Thang Hai in District 10, I left empty-handed — they had moved on several months ago, finishing up their business with the hu tieu stands after years of earning a livelihood on the streets. So I went over to District 2.

The Last Stand? “How badly did the rat scandal injure your business?” I asked one stand owner on Nguyen Tuyen. “Did you lose many customers?” “Lose customers?” she replied. “No, it didn’t cause me any trouble. My place is still as crowded as before. This business has been around for 28 years and everyone knows the quality of my food. Do I look like somebody who traps rats and digs up worms?” We both burst out laughing. Her smile warmed up the atmosphere of my mainly fruitless evening. This lady is one of only a few people left in Saigon who has a hopeful vision for the future of the humble hu tieu stand. “Can I have hu tieu dac biet?” I asked. “But please don’t put pi…” She cut my line as I was ordering. No gio heo. “Pig leg, you want no pig leg, but extra quail eggs. Got it!” The last time I feasted at this spot was months ago. It had been so long that I couldn’t even remember the taste. Yet the stand owner remembered me. And she even remembered my order.

Hu Tieu on the Street To dine like a king on the Saigon sidewalk, check out these streets:

N GUYEN T UYEN , Q2

VND15,000 to VND30,000 a bowl

L E H ONG P HONG , Q10

VND15,000 to VND30,000 a bowl

V INH V IEN , Q11

VND16,000 and VND20,000 a bowl

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Travel

MLJET IN CROATIA // YACHT RENT

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TRAVEL

INTERNATIONAL

Croatia David Mann travelled to Croatia to eat pizza, climb walls and get a tan â&#x20AC;&#x201D; not necessarily in that order

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here do you go if you want to experience Europe in the summer but don’t have piles of cash to burn? Similarly, where do you go in Europe when you want to eat really delicious food without having to stay in a dodgy backpacker place to balance the budget? I was left pondering those exact questions one afternoon last year, when an email alert from Vietnam Airlines hipped me to a ridiculously cheap return flight to Paris. I had a bit of time to kill, but not enough money to spend the whole time in Paris. I was also going to be travelling in September, the month when most of the

sunny Mediterranean destinations were winding down. I was about to bail on the idea altogether when I stumbled on a little piece of paradise, otherwise known as Croatia. Croatia benefits from a lengthy travel season that goes from late May to early October. It is also blessed with an incredible landscape that puts both the sea and mountains within reach, and allows active travellers to enjoy sunny (albeit, cooler) skies in September while still being able to swim, cycle and rock-climb up and down its amazing coastline. The country boasts 1,246 islands dotting their way up

the Dalmatian Coast, only 67 of which are inhabited, making it ideal for sailing. But if it’s food that you’re after, then you’ll be pleased to know that its northern neighbour, Italy, has heavily influenced Croatian cuisine. That means that pizza, pasta and antipasto are as ubiquitous as Coca-Cola, and thanks to a generous exchange rate, will set you back on average around VND200,000 a meal. Months later, I stepped off my Croatian Airlines flight and into the Adriatic sunshine. With my savings burning a hole in my pocket and a list of places to visit, I began my Croatian adventure. Here’s where I went.

“When I wasn’t walking, I was eating. Platters of antipasto and grilled seafood were followed by countless scoops of creamy gelato”

DUBROVNIK FROM THE CLIFFS ABOVE // VICTOR GONZALEZ

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BRAC OLD TOWN // CYRIL DOUSSIN

Brač Dubrovnik I spent four days exploring Dubrovnik and could have easily spent a week here. The famous walled city boasts a fascinating history, ranging from the Ottoman occupation right up to the gruesome siege of 1991, when Yugoslavian forces, led by Slobodan Milosevic, launched a brutal attack on the city. But history aside, it’s also an incredibly fun city to be in. When I wasn’t walking, I was eating. Platters of antipasto and grilled seafood were followed by countless scoops of creamy gelato (VND30,000/scoop). I also paid frequent trips to Buza, a fun cliff bar located outside the city wall and overlooking the Adriatic. Hot tip: it’s accessible only through a tiny hole in the city’s outer wall.

Brač was my first stop on a week-long sailing and cycling trip with Sail Croatia (prices start at VND10.5 million) that did a loop of Croatia’s most visited islands, including Mljet, Korcula and the Makarska Riviera. Although Brač is the largest island in the Dalmatian territory, it boasts a population of only 12,000 people, and life there is laid-back and poetically simple. Farming and fishing are the primary industries, dominated by family-run farms and marinas. For us, that meant visiting organic farms that grew their own olives, cured their own Dalmatian ham and conjured up mouthwatering feasts of slow-cooked meat and organically grown vegetables. In one word: heaven.

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Hvar

THE CITY OF HVAR // KAMILSOLINA

Hvar is Croatia’s answer to Ibiza, and it’s amazing. If ever I were to sell my belongings and go on sabbatical, this is where I would come. Considered one of the 10 most beautiful islands in the world, it is said to experience only three days of bad weather each year. It is also blessed with pristine pebble-stone beaches, sleepy Italian monasteries and a throbbing nightlife that makes it popular with young travellers. The waterfront promenade makes for an ideal spot to enjoy a reasonably-priced Aperol spritzer (around VND110,000) and watch the bronzed and the beautiful walk by.

“Hvar is Croatia’s answer to Ibiza, and it’s amazing. If ever I were to sell my belongings and go on sabbatical, this is where I would come”

THE MARINA IN HVAR // ALCHEN_X

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KOTOR IN MONTENEGRO // ARNO HOYER

Montenegro Day trips to Montenegro run daily from Dubrovnik, and can be done cheaply by private car for around VND1 million. After a short stop at the border crossing, you’ll soon arrive at the old town of Kotor, a legendary walled city hidden behind the towering fjords of the Gulf of Kotor. Within minutes of arriving, we managed

to get lost in the beautiful cobblestone passages. The highlight, however, was climbing the 1,360 stairs to the 1,400m altitude fortress at the top of the city. Here, we had incredible views of the surrounding mountains and the magnificent stone buildings, poking up to the sky from the town below. HOUSES IN KOTOR, MONTENEGRO // KEVIN BOTTO

Getting There (and Around) Air France and Vietnam Airlines travel direct to Paris from Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Prices can be as low as VND15 million return. Regular connecting flights to Dubrovnik or Split are available on British Airways and Croatian Airlines from around VND4.5 million. S AIL C ROATIA — sail-croatia.com — operates weekly sailing trips from the end of April to mid-October, ranging from its party-seeking Navigator cruise to the adrenalin-pumping sail-cycle tours. Those short on time can island-hop using the country’s reliable ferry service. Buses travel regularly between the major cities of Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik.

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Travel TRAVEL

CYCLING

Routefinder Travelling this country atop a saddle takes you places youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d otherwise never venture. Here are personal accounts of cycle rides both in and out of the big cities. Words and photos compiled by Nick Ross

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The App of all Apps Most cyclists in Vietnam — at least, certainly in Saigon — use Strava, an app to track routes, speeds and unite the cycling community. Me, I’m not all that keen on it. It’s an ego thing. I don’t like cycling over a bridge only for Strava to tell me my speed over this hump in the road puts me 100th out of 150 other cyclists who’ve done the route. I have a competitive spirit, but not that competitive. Or maybe the issue is I just don’t cycle fast enough. However, if you want to track or discover routes, this is the best way. It’s also good if you want to team up with other cyclists. Simply find friends or follow someone. You’ll be surprised how many avid — sorry, crazy — cyclists there are out there. Some of them are damn fast, too.

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Route: The Long Thanh Loop Where: Highway 1 to the Big C roundabout. Highway 51 through Long Thanh. Turn right towards Nhon Trach. Follow all the way to the Cat Lai ferry. Straight to District 2 Distance: 80km

’m on my longest solo ride yet — a 78km loop via Long Thanh back to Saigon. I stop for a break 22km in, looking for a bottle of that cheap but surely unhealthy cyclist’s drink ubiquitous in Vietnam — Revive. In front of me motorbikes hurry past in a mad rush to get to Vung Tau. It’s only 6am and already the traffic is out in force. And in the two cages to my left, roosters welcome the new day, even though the sun’s been up for half an hour. This is the life of a cyclist in this country, or at least a cyclist who likes distance. Early mornings to beat the heat; crazy highways; odd roadside shacks in the middle of nowhere. If you’re gonna cycle, you’re gonna end up in the oddest of places. It’s part of the fun, the experience. The idea for getting back on a bicycle came from a now recently-departed-Vietnam friend in Hanoi. With several other cyclists, three or four mornings a week he would cycle from West Lake to Noi Bai Airport and back. 50km before work. I remember being amazed. Even now I marvel at how after 50km, my friend could do a solid day’s work. I can’t. But it was another cyclist who got me back on the wheels — albeit an electric bike around-the-world cyclist — Guim Valls Teruel. By letting my daughter and me borrow two bicycles one July afternoon in 2013, the man behind The Hanoi Bicycle Collective unwittingly inducted us into Vietnam’s cycling club. A month later both my daughter and myself had bought bikes. My daughter cycles occasionally. Me? I haven’t looked back. — Nick Ross ********** A typical conversation I have when I’m cycling: “Your Vietnamese is good,” says the old woman selling banh mi chung. I’ve made it to Long Thanh. Breakfast. “I guess you’ve been here a long time.” “Yes I have.” “Hen gi… Thought so. Is your family here?” “Yes, I’ve got family in Saigon.” “Where are you going? Vung Tau?” “No, Nhon Trach and then back to Saigon.” “Pull up a seat and get in the shade. You should stay out of the sun for a bit.” — Nick Ross **********

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Positive Mass Route: Around Central Hanoi Where: Start at St. Joseph’s Cathedral then follow the bicycles around the city How long: Around 8km 8pm on the last Friday of each month, St. Joseph’s Cathedral in Hanoi. Over 100 people ready to ride bicycles around downtown Hanoi. Positive Mass — Vietnam's answer to the worldwide cycling phenomenon, Critical Mass. The ride will celebrate its third anniversary in September. That’s 36 rides and counting. We cycle together with 100 other cyclists through the small and crowded streets of Hanoi. It’s an experience, particularly when you can see the look on people’s faces as we pass by. We do nothing different to what the millions of motorbikes do every day in town — we move together. But we do it on bicycles. We’re trying to promote their use in cities. We start from the Cathedral and head down Nha Tho towards Hoan Kiem Lake. It is always a great feeling as the mass of bicycles joins the mass of motorbikes on the lake road, Le Thai To. Petrol riders are always shocked to see these bicycles appear from nowhere. We then turn right on Trang Thi — a much bigger street where it is easy to cycle freely and quietly. Due to the size of our group, we always have to be careful not to be cut off from each other by traffic lights. So we travel at a slow, steady pace. Once we join Dien Bien Phu, the road gets busy again — cars, motorbikes, buses, making it difficult for us to travel in a group. But after the traffic lights at the intersection

with Tran Phu, it gets peaceful. We pass the mausoleum before turning onto Phan Dinh Phung, where traffic is always quiet on Friday nights. Once we arrive at the end we turn right and pass under Long Bien bridge before cycling down Nguyen Huu Huan and heading onto Ly Thai To. Turning past the Ly Thai To statue we are once again on Hoan Kiem Lake, where our friends, the motorbikes, join us en masse. We circumnavigate the lake before finishing up at St. Joseph’s Cathedral. — Guim Valls Teruel **********

The Perfect Preparation Route: Ho Chi Minh City to Mui Ne Where: Ho Chi Minh City to Vung Tau via Highway 1. The coastal road from Vung Tau up through La Gi to Mui Ke Ga. Then on to Phan Thiet and Mui Ne Distance: 250km Before I rode the 250km to Mui Ne, the most I’d ridden was 70km to Can Gio. This was two years ago. The trip culminated in me holding hands with strangers around a bonfire on the beach, and drinking way too much rum and coke. It was an adventure. The idea for the more recent ride came in the pub. I’d heard my riding partner Matthew talking about the trip with a friend. When I contacted him the next day, it turned into a reality I couldn’t back out of. S***. Without an actual bike to my name — this part is pretty important — I settled on a

In-Town Routes Here are a few of my favourites. The loop routes can be joined anywhere along the route.

H O C HI M INH C ITY The Canal Loop 40km District 2 — Dien Bien Phu — Nhieu Loc Canal to Phan Dinh Phung — Straight up Nguyen Kiem to the Pham Van Dong roundabout — right to Thu Duc — through Thu Duc down Highway 1 back to District 2 The Phu My Bridge Loop 60km District 2 — Highway to Phu My Bridge — Nguyen Van Linh to Highway 1 — East-West Highway — Ton Duc Thang — Nguyen Huu Canh — Saigon Bridge — District 2

H ANOI West Lake 16km The full lake road plus Lac Long Quan, Thanh Nien and the section going past the Hanoi Club and Thang Loi Hotel Past Thang Long Bridge Minimum 20km. Up to 60km Au Co — An Duong Vuong — Dong Ngac — Thuong Cat — river road towards Son Tay — back again

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brand new cyclo-cross, two days before we were due to leave. This would allow me to “burn up the tarmac” one day, then “plough through mud like butter” the next. I’m a sucker for a catchy sales pitch. The day before leaving, I rode the bike from District 2 to a friend’s impromptu barbecue in Phu My Hung. There I drank the maximum amount of alcohol I could in the allotted six-hour window, figuring the beer carbs would increase my ‘cadence’, and the naturally occurring whisky starches would enhance my all-round ‘road awareness’.

Nipple Chaffing It was only during the short trip to meet Matthew for our pre-departure breakfast — full English of course — that the reality of two-and-a-half days in the saddle took shape. Friends had warned me of the suffering, and I wondered if I was doing the smart thing. At the last minute I nearly suggested we get the ferry to Vung Tau. We could ride from there. But I stopped short. Day one was a 110km slog along the highway to Vung Tau, where we were offered a choice of hourly or nightly accommodation. It was the public holiday crush and we opted for nightly. Day two was a slightly more pleasant grind through fields of dragon fruit in the 40-degree heat. My

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hamstrings and lower back screamed all the way, while my partner’s nipple chaffing got out of hand. Day three brought the relief that it would all be over soon, and rewarded us with a world-class stretch of panoramic coastal road between Mui Ke Ga and Phan Thiet before we hit our final destination, Mui Ne. On reaching it I chalked up a victory for what I call the unprepared amateur athlete, then sat in the pool at Joe’s Garden Café soaking up the serenity of my win. I recommend it to you all. — Jon Aspin with additional input from Matthew Rosenthal Tips: Pack light, bring a spare inner tube, drink nuoc mia (sugarcane juice) and keep peddling

Trade Secrets Route: Saigon River to Hoc Mon or Cu Chi Where: Go to the ferry in Go Vap — Pha An Phu Dong. It’s at the end of Nguyen Thai Son Street. On the other side turn immediate right. The path takes you to the river. You’ll have to work out the rest Distance: 50km to 80km depending on how far you want to cycle up the river “I hope you’re not going to write about this,” said Mike (name changed). “I don’t want the whole world knowing this route.”

I told him I would only direct people to its start — after all, cyclists are possessive about their routes. This satisfied him. The route in question was one I traversed in early January. It was a Sunday morning and one of the cyclists I was with suggested we hit the Saigon River. Not the part running past Districts 4 and 7, but the section going inland through Hoc Mon and then Cu Chi. “There’s a river path,” said Mike. “It’s a nice ride, but a lot of it is off-road.” James concurred. “It’s 50 or 60k. It’s a nice journey.” We had set off late — when you’re cycling 50km off road, 7am is a late start — and by the time we were on the return journey from the riverside pagoda in Hoc Mon, the sun was already high in the sky. It’s one of the dangers of cycling in Vietnam. Too much sun. Heat. Heat stroke. On the return leg two of the cyclists began to fall off the pace — another normality when you’re cycling in groups — and the going was slow. I was getting hotter. And hotter. But it didn’t matter. When you cycle in a group you look out for everyone — it’s part of the experience. The camaraderie. And anyway, our prime objective had been fulfilled — getting out of the city. — Nick Ross

How Safe Is It? Humans justify their behaviour — it is natural. And as a cyclist, I do just the same: cycling in Vietnam is safe. At least, I feel much safer on a bicycle in Vietnam than I do in London (which is where I also cycle a lot). The difference is the type of vehicles on the road. In ‘Nam it’s mainly two-wheeled — you’re part of the traffic and once you hit decent speeds, you’re not much slower than the motorbikes. Where the traffic is based around four wheels, the vehicles around you have to avoid you. It’s a different sensation and infinitely more dangerous. But then, I’ve seen two cycling accidents in Vietnam. None of them were serious, but both were caused by idiot motorbike drivers who pulled out without looking. Oh, and I once almost got taken out by a taxi.

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Travel

DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS $$$$ Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063) 3555888

anamandara-resort.com

DALAT PALACE $$$$ 12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 5444

dalatpalace.vn

This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. Shortly to become a Marriot property. FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333

fortuna.vn DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL 172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 7999

dalatgreencityhotel.com

Located in central Dalat, this is the perfect place for budget travellers. Quiet, newly refurbished with beautiful mountain and city views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and snack bar in all rooms with a downstairs coffee shop and computers in the lobby for guest use.

This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations. HOTEL DE L’OPERA 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555

contact@hoteldelopera.com

DALAT TRAIN VILLA Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 381 6365

dalattrainvilla.com

Located near the Dalat Train Station, the Dalat Train Villa is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa. In its grounds is a 1910 train carriage which has been renovated into a bar and cafe. Located within 10 minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL $ 22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 2663

M M M HANOI – INTERNATIONAL CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL $$$ 36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi.com This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. Boasts two swimming pools, a spa, and a fitness centre in its 24 stories. DAEWOO HOTEL 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 5555

hanoi-daewoohotel.com

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Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi. HILTON GARDEN INN HANOI 20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944 9396

hanoi.hgi.com

With 86 fully-equipped guestrooms and suites, this is the first Hilton Garden Inn property in Southeast Asia. Centrally located and a short stroll from the historic Old Quarter, the hotel offers a full service restaurant, a stylish bar, along with complimentary business and fitness centres making it perfect for the international business or leisure traveller. HILTON HANOI OPERA 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500

hanoi.hilton.com

Situated next to the iconic Hanoi Opera House and a short stroll from the Old Quarter, this five-star hotel is a Hanoi landmark. With 269 fully-equipped rooms and suites, there’s plenty for the discerning business and leisure traveller to choose from.

INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6270 8888

hanoi.intercontinental.com

This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort. Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, topend accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake. Great gym and health club. JW MARRIOTT HANOI 8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833 5588

jwmarriotthanoi.com

From the expressive architecture outside to the authentic signature JW Marriott services inside, this Marriott hotel in Hanoi is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next door to the National Convention Centre. MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER 43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 5688

maydeville.com

The largest four-star hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, 110 rooms, a swimming pool, a top floor terrace bar and a location just a stone’s throw from Hoan Kiem Lake make this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in the heart of the action. MELIA HANOI 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343

meliahanoi.com

Excellently located in central Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. State-of-the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish bars, fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied. MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800

moevenpick-hanoi.com

With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An allday restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking. PULLMAN HANOI HOTEL $$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 0688

pullman-hanoi.com

With deluxe rooms and

suites, a contemporary lobby, an excellent buffet, and a la carte restaurant, this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter. SHERATON K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000

sheraton.com/hanoi

Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown. In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge. SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919

sofitel.com

The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night. SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.

M M M HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN 16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem

sixonsixteen.com

Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the second floor, home-style Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee. GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928 6969

goldensilkhotel.com

Located in the centre of the Old Quarter, this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable

minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine. JOSEPH’S HOTEL $$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3938 1048

josephshotel.com

Located next to the cathedral, this popular wellappointed, airy and spacious boutique hotel mixes comfort with a nice ambience and great Western or Vietnamese breakfasts. All the modern amenities at reasonable prices. MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999

hanovahotel.com

A minute from Hoan Kiem Lake, this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar. MAY DE VILLE 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 well-appointed rooms including four suites.

M M M HANOI – BUDGET HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 5372

hanoibackpackershostel.com

Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.

M M M HCMC – INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL $$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

caravellehotel.com

Winner of Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar, and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections. EQUATORIAL $$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3839 7777

equatorial.com/hcm

This massive property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. The Equatorial also has an on-site casino. HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON $$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 7777

hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn

The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool, a gym, 24-hour fine dining, 24-hours room service, and limousine services. INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON $$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999

intercontinental.com/saigon

In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, resides the Asiana with signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade. LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3333

legendsaigon.com

Immaculate architecture, spacious rooms, and a fine selection of fine dining, with buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine. NEW WORLD HOTEL $$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888

saigon.newworldhotels.com

Former guests include U.S. presidents — two Bushes, Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event as well as a hotel, New World is one of the best luxury stops in town. PARK HYATT $$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234

saigon.park.hyatt.com

Fabulous in style, prime in location, everything one would expect from the Hyatt. The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation, as has the landscaped pool. PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE $$$$$ 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686

pullmanhotels.com

Recently completed on the site of the old Metropole, this upscale, contemporary property boasts 306 signature rooms combining design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine, a great downtown location and hightech meeting venues able to

host up to 600 guests make up the mix. RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111

riverside-apartments.com

Situated on the banks of the Saigon River, a 15-minute scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town, Riverside’s complementary shuttle services take you right in the city centre. With 152 fully equipped serviced apartments, the property offers special packages for short-term stay starting at VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility. RIVERSIDE RENAISSANCE $$$$$ 18–19-20 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1417

riversidehotelsg.com

This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup or drop off, a 4th floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant. SHERATON $$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828

sheraton.com/saigon

Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in town, with first–class facilities, an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor. SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA $$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

sofitel.com

This 20–story building in downtown Saigon, caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon. WINDSOR PLAZA $$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3833 6688

windsorplazahotel.com

The full ensemble with its own shopping hub (including a bank), fine dining, a sauna, health club, and superb panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region.

M M M HCMC – DELUXE CONTINENTAL $$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9201

continentalhotel.com.vn

This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. In the heart of Saigon, this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture.

NORFOLK HOTEL $$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368

norfolkhotel.com.vn

Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso. NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE $$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866

novotel-saigon-centre.com

Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel, an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including a swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa. VILLA SONG SAIGON $$$ 197/2 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6090

villasong.com

Deliberately located away from the city centre in Thao Dien, this riverside boutique villa-style hotel is a sanctuary of peace and calm — a rarity in Ho Chi Minh City. Beautiful, Indochine-influenced design, a great setting and good drinking and dining options make this a great, non-city centre choice. STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL $$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888

starcitysaigon.vn

The newly-built hotel is near Tan Son Nhat International Airport. With spectacular city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming pool, there is little reason not to choose this shining star.

Free Wi–Fi offered in every room. Low prices, friendly staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps from the backpacker’s area. DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3699

dunahotel.com

HONG HOA HOTEL $ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1915

honghoavn.com

SINH HUONG HOTEL $ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4648

sinhhuonghotel.com.vn

M M M HOI AN & DANANG AN BANG BEACH RETREAT An Bang Beach, Hoi An

anbangbeachretreat.com

CUA DAI $ 544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 386 2231

hotelcuadai-hoian.com/

DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$ Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396 1800

FURAMA RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 384 7888

furamavietnam.com

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234

danang.regency.hyatt.com

The Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is beachfront with a stunning view of the Marble Mountains. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool. MERCURE DANANG $$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777

mercure-danang.com

Set on the Han River, this well-appointed, Accor-managed property is one of the nicest hotels in Central Danang. Kitsch but contemporary design and some phenomenal views over the city make up the mix.

PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Tel: (0511) 395 8888

pullman-danang.com

Located on the stunning white sands of Bac My An Beach, the stylish Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities and facilities for the modern traveller. With an idyllic setting, this luxury property is perfect for a family holiday or romantic beach getaway. And with extensive function facilities, Pullman Danang also provides the a great location for your next incentive getaway or event.

THE NAM HAI $$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394 0000

ghmhotels.com

Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. Each massive room has its own espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers.

danangbeachresort.com.vn

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

M M M HCMC - MID-RANGE ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON $$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 5914

kimdohotel.com

LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2 $$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926

lanlanhotel.com.vn

THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL $$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966

alcovehotel.com.vn

M M M HCMC – BUDGET DUC VUONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 6992

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

ducvuonghotel.com

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THE MOTORBIKE DIARIES PART 5: THIS IS 'BURMA' (TAKE II)

With Nemo the motorbike en route to Bangladesh by sea, Matt Dworzanczyk continues his journey across Asia north via Myanmar. DAY 73

DAY 78

Martini Shaker Overnight train to Yangon. Bodies piled on top of each other. Broken seats left and right. Stench and garbage everywhere. Not a single working fan. Air con? What’s that? Let me find my seat… oh there it is — the only piece of floor available, back to back with a sack of durians… Maaan..! Then it moves... Shaking like an earthquake. People are getting thrown out of their seats. Is this damn thing on springs?! Only four hours… I can do it… I can do it… 12 hours later, finally get to Yangon. Sick like never before, everything rattling inside me for another three days.

North Korea Déjà Vu? Silly! Bizarre! Eeh?! Whoever thought this was a good idea? Capital City? Haha! A mad dictator’s insane little dream, more like! So Weird! (in the voice of the photographer from Holy Motors). There’s little else here but roads. Massive, wide roads — you could land a jumbo jet here! You could land two! No people. No traffic. No houses. No culture. Welcome to Nay Pyi Taw! Went to a ‘museum’ — closed. Went to a ‘water fountain garden’ — no water and three broken fountains. I convinced a lone taxi driver to rent me his bike for the day. Not like he was gonna find any other clients here anyways.

Spent the afternoon doing donuts in front of the ridiculous parliament building. I still wonder if it’s an Oz-like façade for some little shack hidden behind it.

DAY 80 More Temples Long ago, before I ever heard of this country called Myanmar, I saw a picture of Bagan and I was mesmerized. For years I’ve been hurting to visit and now I finally get here and I feel... unimpressed. Those birds-eye view pictures you see in magazines — you just don’t get that here. There are barely any high viewpoints, all the temples are quite spread out and once you’ve seen two, the rest are just… more of the same…

DAY 82 Kenbo With Nemo, my bike, away on a boat, I’ve been riding rentals through Myanmar. I collectively call them “Kenny”. Their gauges are typically all dead, shocks worn out, the brakes don’t work, mirrors are gone and the wood-hard seats… maaan…! Why so rough, Kenny? Uh, can’t start the thing again… Kenbo, work, dammit! I miss my Nemo.

DAY 83 English Summer Getaway Took a bus to Mandalay. Didn’t know where to get off. Ended up in Pyin Oo Lwyin instead. I like it here, am staying a while. Weather’s cooler and it’s so nice,

green and European-style countryside.

DAY 86 Chin State Checkpoint procedure: 1) Visor Down 2) Slow down, but don’t stop 3) Look the other way 4) Hope Nobody chases me! That’s how I got into Chin state. Halfway there, Kenbo crapped up, engine went up in smoke. Got help from a local from Falam and followed him to town. Spent the afternoon watching Bon Jovi music videos in the guy’s purple, wooden house and feeling strangely touched with 1990s nostalgia. This whole town feels like a colorful, ultra-Catholic, old English film set

somehow dropped in the middle of Asian mountains. The local hangout is the old hospital on a hill. Vivid, painted slogans proclaiming love for Jesus on every tree, on every bench and house-front. I’m not fond of religion, but this place actually feels warm and welcoming. Well, except for the ultra-heavy police presence. No power in whole town tonight and my guesthouse’s generator is broken. The hotel owner stops by for a candlelit chat, excited to be hosting the rare foreigner. This whole place reminds me of my great-grandfather’s old house in rural Poland. This is awesome! For more on Matt’s films and travels, check out the Etherium Sky Production Blog at EtheriumSky.com/ProdBlog

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Travel

M M M HUE & LANG CO ANGSANA LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800

angsana.com/en/lang_co

Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors. BANYAN TREE LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888

banyantree.com/en/lang_co

Built on a crescent bay, The Banyan Tree offers privacy and unparalleled exclusivity with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods. LA RESIDENCE $$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383 7475

la–residence–hue.com

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL $ 66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382 6736

hoangphuonghotel.com

M M M NHA TRANG

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT $ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384

junglebeachvietnam.com

On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature. MIA RESORT NHA TRANG $$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 398 9666

mianhatrang.com

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG $$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 625 6900

novotel-nhatrang.com

This four-star hotel with 154 guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view. Complete with a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates. SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY $$$$ Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372 8222

sixsenses.com/resorts/ninhvan-bay/destination The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006. The location is stunning, on a bay accessible only by boat.

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL AND SPA $$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058) 388 0000

sheraton.com/nhatrang

M M M EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA $$$$ Beachside Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 352 2222

sixsenses.com/evason-resorts/ana-mandara/destination

2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

PHOTO BY MATT DWORZANCZYK

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PHAN THIET & MUI NE NINH CHU BAY BEACH CLUB & BAR Hwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068) 627 2727

ninhchubay.com

Enjoy the private beach with excellent facilities and have a massage. Evenings are sublime at this beach club, soon to become a fully fledged resort. Grilled seafood, European sausages, sangria, draught beer, and specialityinfused vodka all make this

one of a kind destination. BLUE OCEAN RESORT $$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7322

blueoceanresort.com.vn life-resorts.com

easytigerphongnha@gmail. com

A hostel and street-front bar all in one. Has a pleasant, airy atmosphere in the bar and restaurant area while the 52 dorm beds — four beds to a room — go for US$8 (VND168,000) each a night.

COCO BEACH $$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7111

HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY $$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: 01299 597182

With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who opened it in 1995.

PHONG NHA FARMSTAY $$ Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 5135

cocobeach.net

JOE’S GARDEN RESORT $$ 86 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7177

joescafemuine.com

A leafy, seafront bungalow resort and café with nightly live music all in one. Reminiscent of the type of places you’d find on the Thai islands, an international and Asian food menu together with a cheap happy hour on beer make up the relaxing mix.

phong-nha-homestay.com

phong-nha-cave.com

The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers’ joint has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool out back and views overlooking paddy fields and mountains. Rooms start at VND600,000 for a twin or double, with a family room for five costing VND1.4 million a night.

M M M PHU QUOC

MIA RESORT MUI NE $$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440

BEACH CLUB RESORT $$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998

VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 381 3000

A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant, and includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season.

miamuine.com

victoriahotels.asia

Another beachfront Victoria chain, the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and jacuzzi.

M M M PHONG NHA EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR $ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844

beachclubvietnam.com

MANGO BAY $$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0903 382207

mangobayphuquoc.com

An eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar. SALINDA PHU QUOC ISLAND, RESORT AND SPA Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Commune, Phu Quoc, Tel:

(077) 399 0011

salindaresort.com

A five-star luxury beach resort, hotel and spa right on the beach of Phu Quoc island in the peaceful town of Duong To, just 4km from the international airport of Phu Quoc.

M M M SAPA CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL $$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203 871946

catcathotel.com

The best view in town from its bar restaurant, the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable rates. The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log fireplaces. TOPAS ECOLODGE $$$ Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales)

topasecolodge.com

With its panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valley, Topas Ecolodge is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains — the landscape, the fresh air and the ethnic peoples. Guests stay in private bungalows with dinner served in a local stilt house restaurant.

M M M VUNG TAU & HO TRAM BINH AN VILLAGE $$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 335 1553

binhanvillage.com

CON DAO RESORT $$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939

condaoresort.vn

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Tel: (064) 378 1525

hotramresort.com

This attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely bungalows and villas promise a

local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming pools. HO TRAM SANCTUARY $$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 1631

sanctuary.com.vn

The spacious villas come with their own pool and have direct access to the beach. Extras include tennis courts, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours. REX HOTEL $$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 385 2135

rexhotelvungtau.com

SIX SENSES CON DAO $$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222

sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888

thegrandhotramstrip.com

The Grand-Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam’s first large scale integrated resort and includes a 541-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beach-front recreation activities. Is located next to the Greg Norman-designed golf course, The Bluffs, one of the best golf courses in Vietnam.

M M M TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA) 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702

buffalotours.com.vn

A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam. BTA customizes leisure and corporate travel plans while

offering a selected range of small group tours. EXO TRAVEL 66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 2150

exotravel.com

on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam’s people, cuisine, history and culture.

A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours. Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays.

TRAVEL SENSE ASIA Suite 8, 2nd Floor, 103 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3715 3977

HANDSPAN TRAVEL 78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3926 2828

M M M

handspan.com

Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-the-beaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more well-worn destinations. HG TRAVEL 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844

hgtravel.com

Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — kenya-airways. com), American Airlines (aa. com) and Turkish Airlines (thy.com).

kien@travelsense.asia

A homegrown travel agency providing small group journeys and tailor-made holidays to Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar and Thailand. Voted in Trip Advisor’s Top 10 of best tours in Hanoi since 2010.

TRAVEL SERVICES — HCMC BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702; 157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827 9170

buffalotours.com

This premium travel agency helps travellers select their destinations and organise their trips. From corporate travel to small group tours, explore the world or Vietnam. EXO TRAVEL 41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08) 3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19

exotravel.com

A reliable and experienced travel company operating through Southeast Asia, Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the region, many including insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY 121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7744

BACK OF THE BIKE TOURS Tel: (08) 6298 5659

flightravelco.com

Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers. TERRAVERDE 12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08) 3984 4754

terraverdetravel.com

If you like cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well. VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE 169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222 993585

vietnamvespaadventure. com

M M M TRAVEL SERVICES — ELSEWHERE

backofthebiketours.com

Offer motorbike tours combined with the finest street food to give customers a truly immersive Vietnamese experience. BEENINASIA.COM

beeninasia.com info@beeninasia.com

Online travel in Southeast Asia. Offers you selection of best hotels and great tours. Create your own trip or we can tailor make your itinerary. TU TRAVEL 60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City, Tel: 0713 752436

tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn

Want to set up non-standard tours in the Mekong with local guides who’ve got extensive local knowledge? This might be the place to contact.

Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308

intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales

Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses

wordvietnam.com | August 2015 Word | 117

TRAVEL PROMOS

Step out with some very cheap flight deals this Autumn with VietJetAir

Exo Travel

VietJetAir Deals

exotravel.com Exo Travel have teamed up with a number of resorts in Vietnam to create travel deals for anyone looking to travel from now until Oct. 31, 2015. This includes the four-star Victoria Sapa Resort & Spa Summer Promotion which costs from VND4,450,000 per person for one night’s accommodation in a superior room with breakfast and a round trip train ticket from Hanoi to Lao Cai on the Victoria Express. The Stay 3 Pay 2 opening offer at the Fusion Resort Nha Trang costs from VND6,901,000 per suite per night including breakfast (any time, any place) and the property’s signature Chamveda Treatment (minimum of two spa treatments per day per person). Up to two people can stay in each room. For the full selection of offers either click on their website or email saigonagency@ exotravel.com

vietjetair.com Every day from midday to 2pm, VietJetAir is running an online promotion where customers can book flights for zero cost — the only thing they have to pay is airport tax and add-ons such as check-in luggage. It’s going to be busy online, so if you’re booking, make sure you’ve got your proposed flight dates and destination sorted out well in advance. The flight deals are for all domestic routes as well as international flights to Bangkok, Singapore, Taipei, Seoul and Yangon. The promotion is for flights between Sep. 7 and Dec. 31, 2015.

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Emeralda, Ninh Binh emeraldaresort.com Located on the edge of the Van Long Nature Reserve, the stunning Emeralda Resort in Ninh Binh is running a Family

First package until Aug. 31. Only a 90-minute drive from Hanoi, from VND3,650,000 per night or VND6,850,000 for two nights for the whole family, the deal includes breakfast, a daily set menu family dinner, free entrance to the kid’s club, free half day use of two bikes, and a host of extra discounts. For more details email info@ emeraldaresort.com or call (0303) 658 333

Fusion Maia Danang maiadanang.fusion-resorts.com The all-inclusive spa resort, Fusion Maia Danang, is running a stay-seven-nights, pay-for-five-nights deal from Sep. 1, 2015 through to Jan. 31, 2016. The deal includes all spa treatments (minimum two per day guaranteed), breakfast at anytime any place, and a pool villa with a private pool and courtyard. Contact the resort for full details.

Hanoi

The Alchemist / Bar Stool / Coffee Cup / Top Eats / The Therapist / Food Promos / Medical Buff / Book Buff

Photo by Julie Vola wordvietnam.com | August 2015 Word | 119

THE ALCHEMIST SPORT’S HOLY GRAIL

thletes often speak of being in the ‘zone’; a place where everything clicks and they shift to a higher level of performance. They often liken the experience to being spiritual. When runners describe the spiritual dimension of running, they speak in terms of ‘presence’, ‘a mystery’, and ‘a way of finding meaning and value in life’. Spiritual experiences are unique to each individual. Some devote themselves to religious faith; others seek a more personal connection and engage in activities such as yoga, meditation, nature retreats or creative expression.

because it is one of the most readily available ways of generating a state of “heightened focus and blissful immersion”. The 19th century Indian monk, Swami Vivekananda, went so far as to say, “In kicking a ball or playing a game, you are much closer to the Divine than you will ever be in prayer.” Indian yogi, Jaggi Vasudev believes that a sporting event is sacred when the individual moves beyond their limitations and achieves a state of abandon usually known only at the peak of spirituality. From this stance, sport can be compared to meditation whereby the activity or game can have the same function as a mantra, acting as a focal point for one’s attention.

Communing with the Divine

Developing a Practice

For psychologist Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi, to be in the ‘zone’ is to be in the ‘flow’. Although he acknowledges that we can find ‘flow’ wherever our passion lies, Mihaly feels that sport is important

When our attention is focused, the outside world disappears giving rise to spiritual or mystical experiences. Writer Polly Campbell offers three ways to make sport more spiritual.

The Meaning of Life

120 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam.com

BY KAREN GAY

1) Be present and aware by moving into the moment and engaging with it fully. 2) Cultivate compassion for yourself, for your teammates and for your opponents. In showing respect and appreciation for the experience, one can then recognise that everyone is ‘striving together’ — the true sense of competition. 3) Let go and surrender to the experience of the moment without concern for outcomes; instead strive, pursue, persist and play with abandon, surrendering to the game or challenge. Spirituality is a vital aspect to the human experience and can be found in almost any human endeavour. The feeling of being at one with whatever you’re doing, producing seemingly effortless results allows for moments of serenity, joy and transcendence; and perhaps the attainment of the Holy Grail. Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is a holistic health practitioner practicing in Hanoi. For information on the types of services provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.com

Hanoi Essentials

ALTERNATIVE HEALTH

BUSINESS GROUPS

HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS) THEATRE GROUP

A-ROAMING BODYWORKER

karen@a-roamingbodyworker.com a-roamingbodyworker.com

Provides various holistic healing modalities. Services include craniosacral therapy, deep tissue massage, prenatal massage, healing stones massage, as well as energy healing including Reiki and Jin Shin Jyutsu. Workshops are also available. HANOI HOLISTIC HEALTH GUIDE

issuu.com/hanoiholistichealth

A guide to various holistic health practitioners in Hanoi. Only available online, but a great information source.

M M M BOOKSHOPS BOOKWORM BOOK SHOP

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and secondhand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice. Has a second shop in Tay Ho LIBRAIRIE FRANÇAISE DE HANOI FRENCH BOOKSHOP

23/67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3726 4896 TRANG TIEN BOOKSTORE VIETNAMESE & ENGLISH BOOKS

44 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2151 WEEKEND BOOKWORM CHILDREN’S & VIETNAM-THEMED BOOKS

1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 With its main store located in Chau Long, sharing space with Hanoi Cooking Centre, the second edition in Tay Ho specialises in children’s and Vietnamese themed books, as well as selling bao cap (Subsidy Era) furniture and a range of souvenirs and gifts. Open weekends only. XUNHASABA ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE

32 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 4068

M M M

AMCHAM 4th Floor, InterContinental Hanoi, 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 2790

amchamhanoi.com

AUSCHAM 4th Floor, 100 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0909 710994

auschamvn.org

BBGV Floor 1, Hanoi Central Office Bldg 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3934 8681

bbgv.org

CCIFV Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229

hitshanoi.com HANOI CLUB COUNTRY CLUB

76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 8115

thehanoiclub.com

THINGS OF SUBSTANCE

HANOI OIS

5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.

NETBALL CLUB

ghanoinetball@gmail.com L’ESPACE FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE

24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2164

vphanoi-lespace.com

M M M CLOTHING

ccifv.org

BOO SKATESHOP

EUROCHAM G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2228

84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147

SKATESHOP

booskateshop.com

eurochamvn.org

CONTRABAND

ICHAM Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229

23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.

icham.org

SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM Business Center Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh

sbav-hanoi.org

M M M CINEMAS CINEMATHEQUE ARTS CINEMA

22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648 Not a movie theatre per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films and opera from all over the world. Call to arrange membership.

M M M CLUBS & SOCIETIES

GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE

36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure. Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost. L’ATELIER 33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6758

ateliervietnam.com

GOETHE INSTITUT

METISEKO

GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE

ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE

58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3734 2251

metiseko.com

goethe.de/hanoi

THREE TREES JEWELLERY

15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8725

M M M COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE COOKING CENTRE

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 0088

hanoicookingcentre.com

Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours. HIDDEN HANOI COOKING CENTRE

147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912 254045

hiddenhanoi.com.vn

A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.

M M M CRAFTS & FURNITURE

WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES

21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 1850

EVENT SPACE

AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX

AIRLINES AIR ASIA airasia.com AIR FRANCE airfrance.com.vn CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines.com

CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE

Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-fit clothing.

AMERICAN CLUB

eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards. Metiseko is also certified by the fairtrade, Textile Exchange.

71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital has seen them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an

JAPAN AIRLINES vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar.com/vn/en KOREAN AIR koreanair.com LAO AIRLINES laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines.com SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways.com.vn

BETTERWORLD GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS

8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Fair trade or bought directly from the artisans who made them, Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the world as well as second-hand books, DVDs and more. MEKONG QUILTS HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS

9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3926 4831; 58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831

TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair.com VIETJETAIR vietjetair.com VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines.com

Hanoi Essentials

Mekong-quilts.org

Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental services throughout Vietnam. The clinic provides the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service care to patients.

M M M GALLERIES

METISEKO ECO-CHIC

71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 2645

metiseko.com

M M M CYCLING DON’S TAY HO BICYCLE RENTALS

16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719

Dons-bistro.com GREEN BIKE

CANNONDALE & JETT STOCKIST

15 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh IBIKE SALES

34 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho; 53 Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem QUAN’S RENTALS BICYCLE / MOTORBIKE RENTALS

70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0904 244941 THBC (THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE) RENTALS & SALES

29 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3156

thbc.vn

M M M

DENTAL CARE AUSTRALIAN DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC

ART VIETNAM GALLERY GALLERY & EXHIBITION SPACE

24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 5190

artvietnamgallery.com

Established in 2002, this American-run gallery has championed Vietnamese contemporary art for more than two decades. Holds regular exhibitions and artist talks. MANZI GALLERY & BAR / CAFE

14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397

facebook.com/manzihanoi

Founded in 2012, this independent contemporary art centre holds regular exhibitions, workshops and a wide range of art events. Manzi promotes emerging artists while presenting established artists from Vietnam. The space also sells works by leading contemporary Vietnamese artists at affordable prices. NHA SAN COLLECTIVE GALLERY & ARTS PROJECTS

24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0985 870316

nhasanstudio.org

The first experimental art space in Hanoi, the non-profit, artist-led space has given contemporary Vietnamese artists the chance to nurture their talent and experiment. Holds regular exhibitions and artist residences.

peacedentalclinic.wordpress. com

Maintains and promotes the treasures of Vietnamese cultural and artistic heritage, allowing visitors to appreciate and understand the entire history of Vietnamese fine arts.

SERENITY INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

WORK ROOM FOUR

2nd floor, 51A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2286

DENTAL CLINIC

19 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0989 067888

serenitydentalclinic.com

WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC

2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555

westcoastinternational.com

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ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY

Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho

workroomfour.com

A place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. Work Room Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes col-

162A Hoang Hoa Tham, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3847 3366 JUST.IN.M 48A Ly Thuong Kiet , Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3939 3907

ANNAM GOURMET

LAN SALON

GROCERIES / DELI

First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4487 DA LOC WINE RETAILER

96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 2789

Daloc.vn

HANOI GOURMET DELI / WINE SHOP

6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3943 1009

Hanoigourmet.com KITCHEN ART KITCHENWARE

38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6680 2770

kitchenart.vn L'S PLACE GROCERY SHOP

3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9911 NATURALLY VIETNAM ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS

4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130

naturallyvietnam.com RED APRON WINE RETAILER

10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943 7226; 28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337 THE OASIS ITALIAN DELI

24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1196 WESTERN CANNED FOODS GROCERY STORE

VEGGIE’S

vnfam.vn

UNISEX HAIR & NAIL SALON

WOMEN’S HAIRDRESSER

66 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 2131

PEACE DENTAL CLINIC

HAIR STREAM

GROCERIES & LIQUOR

NATIONAL ARTS MUSEUM

VIETNAM ARTS MUSEUM

DENTAL CLINIC

M M M

17 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3854

3 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 0906 200434

australiandentalclinic.com

laboration and new ideas, exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts and events.

GROCERIES, FRUIT & VEG

99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 4630 THE WAREHOUSE WINE RETAILER

59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 7666; 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3701

warehouse-asia.com

M M M HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON HAIR SALON

2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899

TOP-END SALON

Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3266 8190

M M M HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS BUMRUNGRAD INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL HANOI OFFICE OF BANGKOK HOSPITAL

136G Tran Vu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3717

bumrungrad.vn

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE MEDICAL

298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 0748

vietnammedicalpractice.com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are used to treating expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service. FRENCH HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3577 1100

hfh.com.vn

HONG NGOC HOSPITAL PRIVATE GENERAL HOSPITAL

55 Yen Ninh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3927 5568; Keangnam Office Tower, Khu B1 Pham Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 7305 8880

SHOPPING MALLS GARDEN SHOPPING CENTER

The Manor, Me Tri Street, My Dinh, Tu Liem Tel: (04) 3787 5500

INDOCHINA PLAZA

241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Giay, Hanoi, Tel: 1900 555596

LOTTE CENTER

54 Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3333 6016

lottecenter.com.vn PARKSON

Viet Tower Plaza, 198 Tay Son, Dong Da Tel: (04) 3537 8666

parkson.com.vn PICO MALL

229 Tay Son, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 6682 0400

SYRENA SHOPPING CENTER

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 7214

hongngochospital.vn

INTERNATIONAL SOS 24HOUR CLINIC MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 0666

Internationalsos.com

Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care. VIETNAM-KOREA FRIENDSHIP CLINIC KOREAN CLINIC & HOSPITAL

12 Chu Van An, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 7231

TRANG TIEN PLAZA

cnr. Hang Bai and Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

trangtienplaza.vn VINCOM CITY TOWERS

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 9999

VINCOM ROYAL CITY

72A Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: (04) 3974 3550

VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 3556

vinmec.com

M M M INSURANCE

IF CONSULTING CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3936 5370

insuranceinasia.com

LIBERTY INSURANCE 16th Floor, Hoa Binh International Towers, 106 Hoang Quoc Viet, Cau Giay Tel: (04) 3755 7111

libertyinsurance.com.vn

REGENCY INTERNATIONAL INSURANCE 5th Floor, Press Club, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0966 857 488

M M M INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, HANOI Hoa Lan Road, Vinhomes Riverside, Long Bien, Tel: (04) 3946 0435

bishanoi.com

A selective, independent, co-educational day school. Provides a British-style education following the National Curriculum for England, with students taking IGCSE and A Level. Pending authorization, will offer the IB programme from 2016 onwards. CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878

concordiahanoi.org

A non-profit entity, Concordia has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system. All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year. HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3832 8140

hisvietnam.com

With schooling available for students studying at elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. Offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong, Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183

isvietnam.org

A not-for-profit, pre-kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Class sizes are small. KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN Unit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3743 0360; 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 7243; C5-C11, 1st Floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3794 0209

kinderworld.net

Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years. QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418

programme from aged 3 through to aged 18. A notfor-profit entity, UNIS aims for its students to emerge as responsible stewards of our global society and natural environment.

M M M MOTORBIKE RENTAL & REPAIRS ANH DUNG MOTORBIKE RENTALS

37 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0915 066096 MR CAO MOTORBIKE RENTAL MOTORBIKE RENTALS

M M M

PROPERTY RENTALS

RELOCATION AGENTS

FAIR REAL ESTATE RENTALS

6 Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6332

fair-realestate.com

GIA LONG HOUSING RENTALS

R714, Blg CT13B Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3743 0589

gialonghousing.com HANOI RENTING RENTALS

No. 809, Ct13b building, Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 6294 4828

hanoirenting.com

106 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0912 094464

LANLINH PROPERTY

PHUNG MOTORBIKE

38 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: Tel: 0933 534999

MOTORBIKE RENTALS

13 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1105

RENTALS

houseinhanoi.com

vn.alliedpickfords.com

The largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Has a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage — both inside and outside of Vietnam. JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS 6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)3826 0334

jvkasia.com

Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

VIETLONG HOUSING

VIP BIKES SOCIAL ENTERPRISE

RENTALS

RENTALS & REPAIRS

vietlonghousing.com

17 Ve Ho, Xuan La, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 931390 Trains disadvantaged youth to be fully qualified, Australian-certified motorbike mechanics. Does sales, restoration, repairs and rentals.

ALLIED PICKFORDS Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511

21 Alley 1/22 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5203

AGS FOUR WINDS 41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8762

agsfourwinds.com

A worldwide leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally. Have the capacity to move property to and from any location.

hanoi.qsi.org

QSI International School of Hanoi is next in a long line of ‘quality schools’ established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing preschool and lower elementary age students. SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3726 1601; Block C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: 3758 2664; Dilmah Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: 3795 1036

kinderworld.net/sis

Provides an international education for students from Primary up to University level. A strong curriculum combines the best aspects of the Singaporean, Australian and Vietnamese curricula, all taught by qualified teachers. Runs various co-curricula activities and prepares students for internationally recognised qualifications: iPSLE, Cambridge IGCSE & AS/A Level, GAC. UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS) G9 Ciputra, Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551

unishanoi.org

Established in 1988, 1,050 students from 60 nationalities follow the IB

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Hanoi

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805

santaferelo.com

With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management.

Essentials

MMM SPORTS, FITNESS & YOGA ELITE FITNESS TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6281

elitefitness.com.vn

The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming

place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range. N SHAPE FITNESS MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE

5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6266 0495

nshapefitness.vn STUDIO FIVE YOGA & WELLNESS

5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 6263.1515

studio5.vn

VIETCLIMB

ZENITH YOGA YOGA & MEDITATION

247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 0253 An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety of levels and styles, including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.

M M M

CLIMBING CENTRE

40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 143185

vietclimb.vn

Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a French-owned, 200-meter climbing gym with state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. They offer clinics, classes and childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s events. Membership and group rates are available, but be sure to check out the three-month pass.

SPORTSWEAR & EQUIPMENT ADIDAS FOOTBALL FOOTBALL & SPORTS

19 Nui Truc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6273 3095 BOO SKATESHOP SKATING EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING

84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147

bosua.vn

HANOI SPORTS SHOP 146, Mai Dich, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 2218 5757

hanoisport.vn

SCORE-TECH 44, Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246

score-tech.net

Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for companies, schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelona. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs.

SUPERMARKETS BIG C 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay; Garden Shopping Centre, The Manor, My Dinh, Tu Liem

bigc.vn CITIMART

UMOVE TRAVEL AND OUTDOORS TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING

13 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3771 3305

umove.com.vn

Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 2999

FIVIMART 27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem

INTIMEX 22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem

METRO THANG LONG Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3755 1617

metro.com.vn

PHOTO BY VU BAO KHANH

124 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam.com

BAR STOOL SPY BAR

’ve been to Spy Bar once before. I stumbled in through the heavy iron shutters after all the other bars in the Old Quarter had closed. It was a long, dark hole in the wall, packed to the brim with glassy-eyed revelers, and it reminded me of so many of my favourite dingy dives in New York City. “This is just like my home bar in my home town,” says Jeppe Haugstrup, one of the men at the helm. He wanted to create a place where expats could gather late at night, an oasis in the sea of Hoan Kiem’s backpacker bars. I returned on a Friday and sat at a table where I could take in the view: the bustling overpass where Chuong Duong Bridge intersects the dyke road, shining bright yellow in the streetlights. An Irish musician was playing an acoustic cover of Sexual Healing while cars and motorbikes crisscrossed in orderly chaos past the front door. I settled in with a beer and a cigarette and listened to Jeppe’s stories.

The Mustard He moved to Vietnam from Denmark in 2011 and spent his first six months drinking

Photos by Jesse Meadows

regularly at Spy Bar, then just a small Vietstyle watering hole. When his favourite spot started floundering due to management issues, he decided he had to save it. He paid a year’s rent up front and brought on his friend, Luan, former owner of Half Man Half Noodle, to run the place. They redesigned the space with Western sensibilities in mind: dark wood panelling lined with LED lights, cheeky signs about drinking too much, and an upstairs loft complete with a poker table and an ‘eye spy’ mural airbrushed on the wall. Community is at the centre of their vision for the bar. Friday and Sunday are Acoustic Nights, where local musicians play songs on the sidewalk. When the live music finishes, patrons can choose their own tunes via a laptop set up for YouTube DJing. They can even use the bar as a base to park their bikes while they wander the Old Quarter (as long as they come back home to Spy Bar at the end of the night, of course). Any big events coming up soon? “The big event is every night,” says Jeppe. He describes the crowd as “50 percent expats, 30 percent locals and 20 percent daring tourists”, and recounts tales of the bar’s most

memorable characters, like the American that often drunkenly waxes philosophical in his underwear, or the girls that once got into a bar fight over their YouTube song choices.

The Bacon For the hungry boozers, the menu is simple, but it does the job: Viking hotdogs (VND30,000) and artisanal Danish sausages (VND45,000), made by Søren Lee Nielsen, a butcher of 15 years who Jeppe brought all the way from Denmark for his culinary talents. The crew recently added the delicious Spy burger (VND45,000) to the menu — it’s made with a wholly handcrafted patty, perfect for quelling those drunken munchies. While cocktails like Margaritas and Mojitos start at VND65,000, the focus here is on no-frill beverages like beer (VND25,000) and Gin & Tonics (VND55,000). After all, you didn’t go to the dive bar for a Cosmo, did you? No, you came for the characters, the stories, and that familiar sense of the bars that you used to call home. — Jesse Meadows Spy Bar is at 12 Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

wordvietnam.com | August 2015 Word | 125

COFFEE CUP TANG TRET COSMO CAFÉ

ed by a waiter, we crept up to the second floor through narrow and winding stairs; stairs that revealed a small terrace bordered by greenery, doors and other mysterious pathways. Despite the temptation to sit on the sunlit balcony, we opted to settle down inside, having originally come here to seek shelter from the heat.

A Little Bit of Everything The architecture was that of an old French colonial villa. The second floor felt small,

with tiny rooms and a low ceiling lined with wooden frames. To some, this might feel claustrophobic, but to me it was simply cozy. The corner where we were sat had a window next to it which let the sunlight filter in. Directly next to us was a potted plant, affectionately equipped with its own light source. After we ordered our drinks, I decided to look around and realised that the little plant pot was not the only weird decoration in the café. One of the walls had torn out dictionary pages for wallpaper,

and each wall was adorned with at least one artwork. The latter ranged from football-themed oil paintings and old propaganda posters to watercolour drawings and textiles (yes, a carpet framed on a wall). Down the first floor, things got more bizarre. Chairs seemed to be collected at random. On the shelves were books in French and Polish. There were also old vinyl records: the Spinners; Passport by Nana Mouskouri: names that don’t ring much of a bell to someone of my

Photos by Vu Bao Khanh

generation, but still familiar enough to ignite a fleeting feeling of nostalgia. Finally, on an old fireplace that was stripped of its original purpose, I found the masterpiece, the piece of décor that summed up the whole café: a big, rainbow-coloured, translucent box. Instant noodles, photos, a teddy bear, an old pair of sunglasses, a box of cigarettes — everything was condensed into that seven-coloured space. It was as if whoever was the author wanted to freeze all of their memories in time.

Then I realised what made this dainty café as endearing as it is. Walking into Tang Tret Cosmo Café is a bit like meeting a person. The place is like somebody’s box of memories. Full of surprises, yet still warm and familiar, this small hole in the wall has created a unique atmosphere that other places fail to capture. A bit like your own home, Tang Tret exudes an effortless and comforting feel.

A One-of-a-Kind Escape The pricy and sugary drinks will not be

the reason why I would come back here. Rather it’s the ambience, the homely feeling offered up by this place. To anyone looking for a quiet haven in the midst of noisy and dusty Hanoi, this is where you should nestle yourself. But make sure you come on a quiet afternoon or morning, or at odd hours, so that you can have the café and all that charm to yourself. — To Thu Phuong Tang Tret Cosmo Café is at 10 Khuc Hao, Ba Dinh, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 6686 0517

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Hanoi On the Town

BARS, CLUBS & BEER CLUBS

able place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.

food menu.

ROCKSTORE

CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR

EDEN HANOI

LE SOLEIL & PAOLO AND CHI DIVE BAR

LIVE MUSIC BAR

facebook.com/bar84hanoi

End of 264 Au Co, Tay Ho

facebook.com/lesoleilpaoloandchi

facebook.com/RockstoreHanoi

+84 BAR 23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem

OUTDOOR PARTY SPACE

Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable sofa-like seating and grungy decor related to a past make up the mix at this venue put together by the people behind Barbetta.

facebook.com/edengargen

When it comes to outdoor parties, big outdoor parties, the setting at Eden makes this place difficult to beat, with well over a 1,000 revellers packing in at the weekends. Check out their Facebook page for the party list.

88 LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8029

88group.vn

A wine bar with a difference, this mainstay on the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle lighting and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit. ANGELINA CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN

Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 Top-end bar and Italian restaurant all in one. Five star prices, but has an atmosphere to match and a great cocktail selection. The kind of place you’ll order a wagyu and eat it at the bar. BACKYARD BIA HOI UPMARKET BIA HOI

15/50 Quang Khanh, Tay Ho From the Tet Lifestyle collection, this outdoor, hideaway, garden-based bia hoi is every bit as attractive (and popular) as its café peers in the West Lake area. A Vietnamese-style food menu and regular live music make up the mix. BARBETTA

ETE BAR FRENCH LOUNGE

95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 751331 A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multistorey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes. FATCAT BAR DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT

25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0986 495211

linkhanoi.com

A small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers, LinkHanoi. The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging. HANOI ROCK CITY LIVE MUSIC VENUE

27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 01633 166170

facebook.com/hrc.hanoi

Has a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production. Weekly live events feature bands and DJs both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming.

284 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0915 663993 A self-style dive bar and live music space with a distinct Gallic feel. A pleasant ambience and tasty cuisine add to the offerings at this popular, West Lake venue. MADAKE BAR & EVENT SPACE

81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6276 6665

facebook.com/madakehanoi

With a stunning garden overlooking a peaceful lotus pond, this bar is famed for it’s many weekday and weekend events, its ambient Asian-style décor, DJ nights and general atmosphere. A popular West Lake go-to joint.

PHUC TAN 51 Tu Gian Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0915 907785 Now located on the river in between Long Bien and Chuong Duong Bridges, this late night, DJ bar is notorious for… well, being Phuc Tan. Almost every Hanoi-based reveler has ended up here at some point. It’s just one of those places. POLITE PUB LONG BAR

LIQUOR LOUNGE

LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE

With well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reli-

sontinh.com

facebook.com/pages/RedRiver-Tea-Room

cama-atk.com

128 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam.com

This bar-cum-restaurant is outfitted with comfortable, stylish furnishings and is famed for its luxurious rice wine liquors and newly created cocktail class. Does regular events including comedy nights and shows all the live football. Also known for its creative Vietnamese

199D Nghi Tam, Tay Ho

facebook.com/sidewalkhanoi

A bar and grill with an eclectic, DIY-style semi-outdoor setting. Regular DJ nights and live music add to the great ambience. Check out their grill fare. Tasty.

12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802 A cheap, cheerful and welcoming slither of a watering hole popular with expats and anyone looking for some good conversation. Cheap beers, oodles of Jameson’s and often open late. Oh, and check out the Danish hotdog stand out front. To die for.

LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 01262 054970

31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6377

DIY BAR & EVENTS VENUE

HOLE IN THE WALL

7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3104 There’s only one Mao and there’s only one red lounge. This late-night bar has been going for years, and despite its Old Quarter dive status, it still packs in the drinkers.

RED RIVER TEA ROOM

MUSIC & ARTS BAR

CZECH MICROBREWERY

SIDEWALK HANOI

SPY BAR

HOUSE OF SON TINH

CAMA ATK

HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS

Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock Cafe without the stigma and the expensive prices. Nightly live music or DJing events are coupled with creative decor, a selection of Belgian Beer and a food menu. Check their Facebook page for details.

LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088

34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 9134 Set in a colonial villa, when it comes to design, the funky but comfortable Barbetta with its roof terrace is difficult to beat. A great place for coffee, beer or even a bite to eat.

61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01653 336087

MAO’S RED LOUNGE

5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0959 5pm to 2am Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic English-style pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, pool and live football matches.

ARTSY BAR & CAFE

nearby favorites. Unpretentious, dog-friendly.

25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho

Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan Dieu, this warm, quiet and friendly pub offers a selection of international and local beers, wine, cocktails and a nice view of West Lake. Serving pies and pasties from The Cart, Vietnamese food from Dieu’s next door, or delivery from

TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE

24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem tadioto.com Located close to the Opera House, this alternative, arty bar is garnished in red and white on the outside, with warm brown and tones of blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging Shanghai and San Francisco, engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the latest incarnation of this well-known and well-loved space. THE NEST VIETNAMESE-STYLE BAR & CLUB

Top Floor, 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0947 890333

facebook.com/Nest. Lounge.09XuanDieu

The West Lake location suggests that this is the kind of bar that will attract expats. It does. But thanks to the Vietnamese atmosphere, there’s a nice mix of local and foreign over the three floors of lounge seating, DJ booths and dance areas. The views here are pretty eye-catching, too.

THE REPUBLIC MODERN SPORTS BAR

7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 010116

republic.vn

A contemporary mid-range bar and eatery showing live sport and boasting a convivial atmosphere. Has a creative comfort food menu, excellent breakfasts, daily specials and a popular second-floor outdoor terrace. THE ROOFTOP SKYLINE LOUNGE

19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3946 1901

therooftop.vn

The first up-on-high bar and restaurant in the capital and still a leader in its field. With DJs spinning EDM and great views of the city, this is a must for a more Vietnamese, top-shelf experience. THE UNICORN BAR COCKTAIL BAR & LOUNGE

2A Hang Than, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 886266 The latest offering of wellknown champion bartender, Pham Tien Tiep, Unicorn offers up a lounge space, a small bar area and an attractive seating space out front. Now, as for the cocktails… TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL SPORTS BAR/GRILL

40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel: (04) 6675 9838

tracyspub.com

A miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. Notorious for its burgers, cooked fresh to order, Tracy’s is also famous for their draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi. VUVUZELA MODERN BEER HALL

2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 8922

vuvuzela.com.vn

When Vuvuzela opened up, mixing the Hooters concept from the US with a beer hall, drinking food and a DJ booth, it created the start of a new scene — beer clubs. The original Vuvuzela on Tran Thanh Tong is still going strong, but it’s so popular that it’s best to book your table in advance. For a full list of Hanoi locations, check their website.

CAFES ANNAM CAFE DELI / INTERNATIONAL CAFE

Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho A trendy, deli-style café connected to Annam Gourmet next door. Bright and fresh décor is complemented by shelves stocked with im-

ported gourmet goods and cafeteria-style furniture. An eye-catching temptation for weary shoppers. CIAO CAFÉ RESTO LOUNGE

2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 1494 A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise offers a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. They also do coffee. COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE

28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3715 4240

coffeebean.com

This American-style chain cafe is a multilevel, indoor/ outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With its LA coffee and office feel, when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Hanoi. CONG CAPHE LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE

152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung; 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh; 27 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem; 15 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh; 100A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

congcaphe.com

With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest café chains in town. D’ALICE BOUTIQUE CAFE

89 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Put together coffee and cake and you get one of those timeless combinations. And if you really want to binge on the cake-end, then check out d’Alice and its quirky interior. Perfect for that more modern combination of sweet tooth and iThingy. DUY TRI VIETNAMESE CAFÉ

43 Yen Phu, Tay Ho The longest-running café in the capital, this 1936-established, three-floored space is simplicity at its finest. Even the coffee here sticks to its roots — it’s made using the same blend of Arabica and Robusta cooked up by its founders. Unpretentious, endearing and old-fashioned.

HANOI COOKING CENTRE CAFÉ COURTYARD CAFE

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Relax in a leafy courtyard, air-con dining room or under a covered roof terrace with a Vietnamese ca phe, Italian coffee, beer, wine or freshly squeezed juice. Order from a seasonally changing menu or try one of the allday breakfast specials for VND110,000, including juice and coffee or tea. HANOI HOUSE HIDEAWAY CAFE

2nd Floor, 47A Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Set in a colonial-era building with equally colonialera styled furnishings, this hidden away family house café is one of those gems synonymous with Hanoi. Quiet, intimate and simple, the staff will treat you like you’re a guest in their home. HIGHLANDS COFFEE CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN

5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228; Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

highlandscoffee.com.vn

With numerous locations around town, what originally started as a fourth-floor joint overlooking the lake has become one of the most popular, home-grown cafes in Vietnam. JOMA COFFEE/BAKERY

28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem; 22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 3388; 43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6071

joma.biz

Popular café with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there, too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009. Joma contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations. KINH DO PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0216 One of the longest-running cafes in town, this hole-inthe-wall, no frills café-cumrestaurant home-makes its patisseries and is renowned for its excellent yoghurt. MANZI ARTSPACE ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY

14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397

facebook.com/manzihanoi

A stunningly designed contemporary café and events space that screams out the

words ‘modern art’. Housed in a converted colonial-era villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows make up the mix here. Great cuisine, too. MOC CAFE

A cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. The atmosphere is relaxed and here you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The ood is fresh and internationally inspired, and has an excellent top-floor terrace.

CAFE / INTERNATIONAL

14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. (04) 3825 6334 Set in a slightly run down colonial villa, the faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western and pan-Asian mains. PUKU INTERNATIONAL / CAFE

16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745 This spacious spot on Food Street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, especially late at night. SAINT HONORE CAFE / BOULANGERIE

5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 This cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked bakery aroma hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times.

YOLO FUNKY LIVE MUSIC CAFE

32C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh

facebook.com/YoloCoffeeShops

Boasting an abundance of communal seating, funky decor and a full roster of regular live music performances, this rollicking café-slash-bar has quickly earned a place in the hearts of Hanoi’s young and trendy. Fun, unpretentious and unashamedly quirky, it’s endearing use of recycled furniture — antiques and colourful artwork create a vibrant atmosphere — make for a popular hangout. Open 24 hours. ZENITH VEGETARIAN CAFE VEGETARIAN / VEGAN

247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 356561

zenithyogavietnam.com

A vegetarian and vegan cafe respecting the philosophy of yoga — simple living, mindful thinking. Using 100 percent natural ingredients, the cuisine has no additional additives or MSG and is cooked using the minimal amount of oil. The stress is instead on eating whole food in its natural state.

M M M EAT AL FRESCO’S

Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, Tay Ho

tet-lifestyle-collection.com

Cloistered among the back streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: coffee, food, art and music. Simple and unpretentious, the café has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel combined with unique and inspiring art installations. THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY

6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117

facebook.com/thehanoisocialclub

SUSHI RESTAURANT

288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 5945

asahisushi.vn CAFÉ 129

MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD

129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342 Long-running, slightly incongruous hole-in-the-wall café and restaurant that has served up up a Western menu since the late 1990s. Check out their and their excellent breakfasts, all scoffed down in a traditional, Vietnamese environment. COUSINS CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL

3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho, Tel: 01238 670098

facebook.com/cousins.hanoi

A contemporary, Frenchinfluenced restaurant selling international cuisine at reasonable prices in a spacious, airy atmosphere. Blackboards, whitewashed, bare-brick walls, period tiles, a well-chosen wine list and an outdoor terrace overlooking the lake make up the formula. DA PAOLO CLASSIC ITALIAN

18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317 This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious wood-fired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL

24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 1155

alfrescogroup.com

DALUVA FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN

33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5831

daluva.com

TET DÉCOR CAFÉ ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR

ASAHI SUSHI

AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224

aulacdobrazil.com

A Brazilian churrascaria offering all-you-can-eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer. In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas.

A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy, Middle-Eastern twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor. DON’S TAY HO CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN

16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719

Dons-bistro.com

This lake-facing venue with its top floor Oyster Bar is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant

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TOP EATS SPICES GARDEN

tepping into the dining room of Spices Garden, the Metropole Hotel’s Vietnamese restaurant, one is enveloped in Indochine elegance, from the dark wood furniture reminiscent of yesteryear to suspended silk lanterns in subdued hues. The service mirrors the ambiance — thoughtful, unobtrusive and charming. In an era before Vietnamese pho became universally known, Spices Garden was one of the first hotel restaurants to introduce foreign guests and dignitaries to Vietnamese cuisine. This is what I’m told by the silk ao dai-clad Nguyen Kim Nhung, the

restaurant manager. And what an introduction it still is. Steamed rice cakes, simmering noodle dishes, chilled delicacies and creative fusion desserts top bountiful carts, baskets and food stands at the lunch buffet.

Pick and Mix I started with beef grilled to order. Imported from New Zealand, this tender steak is the finest beef I’ve tasted in Vietnam. I also sampled a frog leg ‘drumstick’ and the signature Hanoi cha ca in my first of many rounds. The winner of Round One was a shrimp paste lollipop on a piece of

sugarcane (chao tom), sweet and smoky from the grill. I thoroughly enjoyed the steaming soups, simmering for hours in preparation; the earthy bun thang, a complex concoction with finely julienned egg, meat, mushrooms, vegetables and bun noodles, and piping hot broth ladled over top; the beef pho also stood out — unlike many an offering on the street it had a distinct aroma of cinnamon and star anise. Perhaps the restaurant’s namesake? The banh cuon created in front of us was enchanting. Dipping her ladle in a milky white batter, a woman swirled it over a

Photos by Julie Vola

taut gauzy cloth suspended over steaming water. After removing the delicate crepe, she filled it with a mixture of pork and mushroom, rolled it up and served it to us with a dipping sauce. The fresh, paper-thin and tender banh cuon were unlike any others I’ve tasted in Hanoi. Made with top-notch ingredients, it was perhaps no surprise. From there I travelled beyond the borders of Vietnam and delved into fusion and non-Vietnamese dishes — fresh sashimi and sushi, housemade pate and French baguettes. Finally the desserts; moist chocolate cake smothered in an equally rich sauce; layered cake with buttercream

frosting topped with fresh raspberries; young rice crème brulee and local fruits. The chef stopped by our table to offer us a cup of green tea made with fresh leaves.

Something New? The experience at Spices Garden is not for the budget conscious. Weekend lunch buffet costs VND1,075,000 per person (Monday to Friday it’s VND760,000). Dishes are also available from the a la carte menu. Yet for those of you who know your way around street food stands and the language, you won’t discover anything new. What Spices Garden offers transcends the food

— it’s the experience. A perfect place for an extravagant treat — for Vietnamese and foreign visitors alike. Become a regular patron, and you just might get a pair of personalised chopsticks kept in the case at the entrance. Before I knew it, hours had passed. My cellphone began to buzz and I was transported back into the present. Reluctantly leaving my urban oasis, I stepped out into the noise and heat of the street to hail a cab, still smiling. — Jill Kester Spices Garden is at the Sofitel Metropole Legend Hanoi, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

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THE THERAPIST This month Douglas Holwerda, American trained and licensed mental health counsellor, advises readers how to handle a spouse who is developing a relationship with someone else

Dear Douglas, I am very confused and don’t know what to do. My husband and I have two young children and have been living in Hanoi for four years. He is a teacher. Four months ago I discovered he has been writing text messages to a female Vietnamese worker at the school who is part of the office staff. When I confronted him, he was most upset that I looked in his phone and told me it was all very innocent friendly chatting. I wasn’t really convinced, but decided to let it go, thinking maybe I was over-reacting. But, a week before school ended and we were to go back to England, I found an unfinished email that he left open that was addressed to her and was saying how he would “miss her” while we were gone. He also referred to me as “S”, the first letter of my name. This upset me and now I am waiting for the right time to talk to him again. I don’t want to ruin our summer plans, but I have to know the truth of what is going on. Am I paranoid? What can I do? —Lizzy Dear Lizzy, There are two aspects to what you may want to consider. The first one is something you have not written about in your letter… the current

132 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam.com

way you feel about how your husband and you are relating to one another. All long-term relationships go through ups and downs. Often it is after a couple has children and roles change that intimacy, sex and emotional closeness tend to wane. So the first question is: how are the two of you doing in your relationship? The second part is about relationships married people have with friends and colleagues. In some cultures it is very common for people to maintain crossgender friendships of old and new friends, even when a person is married. Some cultures are much less open to that kind of friendship and would deem it inappropriate for a married woman or man to have a close friend of the opposite gender. There is no right or wrong, and you may have to decide what is OK with you when you feel like your husband is getting too close to another woman. I have found that the “condition” of the marriage or how well the couple is relating is the most important determiner of what is OK or not. Men and women are less threatened and fearful when they feel a strong connection, they feel openness and honesty, and feel secure in the trust they have in one another. If you are feeling

distant from your husband and he is seemingly interested in another woman, it may be setting off red flags for you. So, first assess your feelings about your relationship and be prepared to speak honestly about it. Often the involvement of another, innocent or not, is really pointing to something that is happening inside the marriage. Secondly, be prepared to speak about how you are challenged by his communication with another woman and specifically what you feel when he refers to you by an initial rather than your whole name. You are responsible for your feelings, but he needs to know how you feel. If you are relating and connecting you will be able to navigate a way for both of you to be true to yourselves. I agree with taking some time to decide what to say and when to say it. Letting him know how you feel rather than attacking him is more likely to find a result that will improve the situation and bring more understanding to both of you. Enjoy your summer vacation, — Douglas Do you have a question you would like Douglas’s help with? You can email him at douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details will not be printed

Hanoi On the Town

again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines. HALIA HANOI SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL

29 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3946 0121

thehalia.com Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes Excellent range of imported oysters, great breakfasts and an extensive wine list. EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE

A multi-floored venue with a bar area and a refined dining space. The menu includes Singaporean specialities such as the shrimp satay salad and the chilli crab spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light Asian flavours is also on offer. Has an extensive wine list.

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE

11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 7280; 99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991

elgaucho.com.vn

With venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of El Gaucho is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay — the USDA cuts are to die for — but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting, an extensive wine list and slick service. There’s a reason El Gaucho is so successful — everything’s being taken care of. FOODSHOP 45 INTERNATIONAL INDIAN

59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 2959

foodshop45.com

Lakeside location and low bamboo seating, this eatery is one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. FRENCH GRILL TOP-END GRILL

JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3833 5588

facebook.com/frenchgrill

With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy restaurant offers guests a service experience with crafted food difficult to find in the capital. GREEN TANGERINE FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION

48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 1286

greentangerinehanoi.com

A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green cast-iron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back

HIGHWAY 4 VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC

5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0639; 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3771 6372 The home of Son Tinh liquor, Highway 4 is also known for its communal dining and ethnic food menu taking in dishes from around the regions of northern Vietnam. Try out their catfish spring rolls. Phenomenal! INDIA PALACE NORTH INDIAN

10B Quang An, Tay Ho Tel: 01247 668668

indiapalacehn@vnn.vn

Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, so India Palace has once again returned to Tay Ho, this time on the strip between Don’s and The Warehouse. Tasty North Indian fare in a pleasant environment from the team behind Tandoor. J.A.F.A. INTERNATIONAL

G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 2400 One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered. JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE STEAKHOUSE / GRILL

23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388

alfrescogroup.com

An all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions, with of course, a focus on steak. Has three floors all with different vibes, the kind of slick service you’d expect from the Al Fresco’s Group and an extensive wine list.

3934 8325

alfrescosgroup.com

Recently refurbished, the Australian-influenced Jaspa’s is known for its attentive service, tasty food and large portions. Popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large and the wine is mainly New World. KOTO ON VAN MIEU RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR

59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337

koto.com.au

The restaurant arm of Koto, an F&B training school for disadvantaged youth. Authentic Asian and European cuisine is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof. KY Y JAPANESE RICE EATERY

166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386 Not to be mistake for a sushi joint, this wonderful restaurant is your typical, Japanese working person’s rice eatery. Has a bar area downstairs and booth-like seating on the upper floors. LA BADIANE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 4509

labadiane-hanoi.com

On entering La Badiane, you are instantly caught by the multitude aromas coming from the open front kitchen. Then, surrounded by leaf plants, and predominantly white walls, the customer is struck by this venue’s calm and elegance. Although the dining experience at la Badiane is about the food, great attention is also paid to the ambience so you can enjoy every aspect of your meal. Voted one of Miele Guide’s Top 500 Restaurants in Asia. LA BICICLETA BARCELONA-STYLE BISTRO

44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246

thbc.vn

Spanish Tapas fare is available elsewhere, but this is the only eatery where it is authentic and from Barcelona. Great selection of sandwiches, tapas and paella as well as enormous Spanishstyle gin and tonics, Tinto de Verano, carajillos and sangria. Also known for its moreish, Catalanstyle desserts. Closed Mondays. LA SALSA IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN

JASPA’S INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN

Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)

5 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3995 0950

lasalsa-hanoi.com

A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed café and bar

with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, Europeanstyle coffee and first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral. LA VERTICALE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 6317

verticale-hanoi.com

Situated in an art-deco villa, this establishment is run by the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality Vietnamese-French fusion cuisine. LE BEAULIEU CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET

Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 The Metropole’s signature restaurant serving up both classic and contemporary French fare. Buffet options mix with an a la carte menu and an ambience that could be straight out of Paris. LUNA D’AUTUNNO CLASSIC ITALIAN

27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823 7338

lunadautunno.vn

This old-favourite Italian uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND100,000 to build-your-own-skies-the-limit. Set inside a large, thoughtful space seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses. Has regular live music and a great Italian wine list. MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE PAN-CHINESE

Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333

fortuna.vn

Elegant and luxurious, May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi. Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese fare together with dim sum, May Man boasts extensive a la carte menus, dim sum menus and set menus. Reservations recommended. MEDITERRANEO PAN-ITALIAN

23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6288 This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Boasts an extensive wine list and a traditional wood fire oven.

FOOD PROMOS HANOI

Want to learn how to make mooncakes? Get yourself down to the Sofitel Plaza masterclass

Lunch Combos @ La Bicicleta facebook.com/labicicletahanoi Hanoi’s favourite (read ONLY) Spanish restaurant is running a daily lunch combo from Tuesday to Friday between midday and 2pm. Costing just VND95,000, the deal includes salad, tapas, a daily-changing main course, dessert and soft drink. On Tuesday the main is a pasta dish, on Wednesday it’s vegetarian, on Thursday’s it’s a seafood paella and on Friday it’s described quite simply as ‘meat’. La Bicicleta is at 44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi

Freelancer Promotion @ Manzi facebook.com/manzihanoi Become a Manzian for a day for just VND90,000 and get a working table, freeflow tea and coffee all day, and free WiFi. You can also pop in and out whenever you want. The promotion runs daily from 7.30am to 5pm — just ask Manzi’s staff prior to ordering your first drink. Manzi Art Space is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

Mocktails @ Green Tangerine greentangerinehanoi.com From Aug. 1 through to the end of

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September, the Old Quarter-based FrenchVietnamese fusion restaurant, Green Tangerine, is running a promotion. For every set lunch ordered, the restaurant will offer a ‘flute’ of one of its signature mocktails. Green Tangerine is at 48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

Westlake Sunday Brunch @ InterCon Westlake intercontinental.com/hanoi Hit up the InterCon for an epicurean feast every Sunday at Café du Lac. With a Sunday Brunch serving up dishes ranging from classic Vietnamese to contemporary international, nine live cooking stations and six types of cuisine are there to cater for your gluttonous needs. Prices are good, too — VND1.11 million net per adult (excluding beverage) or VND1.7 million net per adult (including a freeflow of wine, beer, soft drinks and Martini).

Mooncake Masterclass @ Sofitel Plaza Hanoi sofitel.com/hanoi So you want to learn how to make mooncakes? Or even better, your staff

want to learn how to make mooncakes. That is exactly what the Sofitel Plaza have in mind with their mooncake masterclass. Taught by chefs at their Chinese outlet, Ming Restaurant, bookings are for a minimum of 10 and a maximum of 20 per class, and the cost is US$25 (VND545,000) per person. You know you want to! For more information email Ms. Nga on H3553-FB1@sofitel.com

Lobster Buffet @ Nikko Hotel hotelnikkohanoi.com.vn The Nikko is turning 17 this month, and in appreciation of their customers over the last two decades, the property has put on a number of pretty amazing promotions. Our favourite is at La Brasserie where the lunchtime seafood buffet with lobster is going for just VND555,000++ (includes free-flow wine, Tiger draught and soft drinks). The dinner version adds steak and free-flow sake to the mix and costs VND690,000++. Could you turn 17 every month, please?

Hanoi On the Town

MING PALACE PAN-CHINESE

Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare. MOOSE AND ROO CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT

42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:(04) 3200 1289 Contemporary Australian and Canadian comfort food in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area. Best known for their Scotch egg, poutine and burgers. Clever changing imagery on the walls. MOOSE AND ROO SMOKEHOUSE AMERICAN GRILL

The American Club, 19-21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3939 2470

mooseandroo.com

There’s a reason for Smokehouse’s popularity — the excellent, on-site smoked meats together with all the typical, American-style sides. Set in the American Club, dining is both indoors and out, and comes with the best bourbon selection in town. NAMASTE HANOI PAN-INDIAN

46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3935 2400

namastehanoi.com

The well-loved Namaste specialises in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. Hosted by the gregarious Gopi, a meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts. NAN N KABAB 49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0922 087799 Specialising in Pakistani cuisine and of course nan bread and kebabs, this semi-outdoor, bamboo tabled, laid back eatery also sells fare from Afganistan and India. In a sentence? Curry, but not as you know it.

NINETEEN 11 INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN

SAINT HONORE

The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3933 4801

BOULANGERIE / BISTRO

Named after the completion date of the Hanoi Opera House, this upscale yet casual restaurant maintains an ambience of elegance, luxury and mystery. The cuisine mixes international fare with twists on Vietnamese cuisine and comes complete with a formidable wine list and an inhouse sommelier.

This bakery and French-style bistro is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple French and international fare is served at meal times.

nineteen11.com.vn

OLD HANOI GOURMET VIETNAMESE

4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 8337

hanoixua.vn/en

Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo, all in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks a standout. PANE E VINO PAN-ITALIAN

3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080

facebook.com/panevinoHN

Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe. Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner. POTS ‘N PANS

5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355

sainthonore.com.vn

THE CART SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ

potsnpans.vn

Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique fine dining restaurant, bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings, a private chef’s table with a kitchen view, and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi. PRESS CLUB CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL

3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 0888

hanoi-pressclub.com

Wooden flooring, paneling and bold but subtle colours pervade this traditional but contemporary, fine-dining 70-seater venue close to the Opera House. Serving up quality cuisine for over a decade, Press Club boasts a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine room, a library and a vast selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere

STREETSIDE BANH MI

25 Hang Ca, Hoan Kiem BIT TET NGON SO 5 VIETNAMESE BEEFSTEAK

20A Hoe Nhai, Ba Dinh BUN BO NAM BO BUN BO NAM BO

67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem BUN CHA DAC KIM BUN CHA

1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem; 67 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem KCC (KIEN CAN COOK)

8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513

COM RANG DUA BO

Small cozy café and sandwich bar hidden away in Nghi Tam Village. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

MIEN TRON HANH

thecartfood.com

THE KAFE

57 Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da

MIXED GLASS NOODLES

7B Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem MY VAN THAN WONTON NOODLES

54 Hang Chieu, Hoan Kiem PHO BO CU CHIEU PHO BO

CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE

48 Hang Dong, Hoan Kiem

thekafe.vn

PHO CUON HUNG BEN

18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 6245 Spacious, casual, energetic and beautifully designed, The KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy the modern urban diner. Preparing fresh food and drinks that show respect to natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe, this café-cum-restaurant is a popular choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual community.

PHO CUON

26 Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh PHO GA BA LAM PHO GA

7 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem PHO GA HANG DIEU PHO GA

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204

BANH MI 25

WRAP & ROLL 5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3824 3718

wrap-roll.com

The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with two restaurants in Hanoi — the second in Royal City.

M M M STREETFOOD

1 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem PHO GIA TRUYEN BAT DAN PHO BO

49 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem PHO LY QUOC SU PHO BO

10 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem PHO THIN LO DUC SAUTEED BEEF PHO

13 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung PHO TRON MIXED PHO

18 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho

5 Phu Doan, Hoan Kiem; 47 Ma May, Hoan Kiem; 2 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem; 6 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem

BANH CUON HANG GA

PHO TU LUN

3 CHI EM PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO / COM

BANH CUON

PHO BO

14 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem

23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

BANH DA TRON

XOI HANG HOM

BANH DA TRON

6 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

STICKY RICE

44 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem

MEDICAL BUFF FEVER, FEVER

What is a Fever? A fever is a rise in body temperature that goes above a certain level. The level depends on how you take the temperature : — Rectal temperature above 100.4ºF (38ºC) — Oral (mouth) temperature above 100ºF (37.8ºC) — Armpit temperature above 99ºF (37.2ºC) — Ear temperature above 100.4ºF (38ºC) in rectal mode or 99.5ºF (37.5ºC) in oral mode The height of the temperature is less important than how sick your child seems to you. If you think your child has a fever, and he or she seems sick, see a doctor.

What is the Best Way to Take my Child’s Temperature? The most accurate way is to take a rectal temperature. Oral temperatures are also reliable when done in children who are at least four years old. Armpit, ear, and forehead temperatures are not as accurate as rectal or oral temperatures.

What Causes Fever? The most common cause of fever in children is viral infections. Children can get a fever if they have: — A cold or the flu — An airway infection, such as laryngotracheitis or bronchiolitis — A stomach or tummy bug — A urinary infection (bacteria), etc.

136 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam.com

In some cases, children get a fever after receiving a vaccine.

Should I Take My Child to See a Doctor? You should take your child to a doctor if he or she is: — Younger than three months and has a rectal temperature of 100.4ºF (38ºC) or higher. Your infant should see a doctor even if he or she looks normal or seems fine. — Between three and 36 months and has a rectal temperature of 100.4ºF (38ºC) or higher for more than three days. Go right away if your child seems sick or is fussy, clingy, or refuses to drink fluids. — Any age and has a rectal temperature of 102ºF (38.9ºC) or higher. Children of any age should also see a doctor if they have: — Oral, rectal, ear, or forehead temperature of 104ºF (40ºC) or higher. — A seizure caused by a fever. — Fevers that keep coming back (even if they last only a few hours). — A fever in addition to an ongoing medical problem, such as heart disease, cancer, lupus, or sickle cell or thalassemia anemia, organ transplant. — A fever as well as a new skin rash.

How Can I help My Child Feel Better? You can… — Offer your child lots of fluids to drink, keep them hydrated. Call the doctor if your

BY DR. PHILIPPE COLLIN

child won’t or can’t drink fluids for more than a few hours. — Encourage your child to rest as much as he or she wants. But don’t force them. — Your child can go back to school or regular activities after he or she has had a normal temperature for 24 hours. Some parents give their children baths to cool them down, but that is not usually necessary.

How are Fevers Treated? That depends on what is causing the fever. Many children do not need treatment. Those who do might need: — Antibiotics to fight the infection causing the fever. But antibiotics work only on infections caused by bacteria. — Medicines, such as acetaminophen, paracetamol (sample brand name: Tylenol, Efferalgan) or ibuprofen (sample brand names: Advil) can help bring down a fever. But these medicines are not always necessary. If you do not know how best to handle your child’s fever, call his or her doctor. NEVER give aspirin to a child younger than 18 years old. Aspirin can cause a dangerous condition called Reye syndrome. Dr. Philippe Collin is a paediatrician at Family Medical Practice in Hanoi. For information or assistance call (04) 3843 0748 (Hanoi), (08) 3822 7848 (Ho Chi Minh City) or (0511) 358 2699 (Da Nang). Alternatively, click on vietnammedicalpractice.com

BOOK BUFF REMEMBER WATERLOO!

This month Truong at Bookworm channels your inner Sporty Spice with reading recommendations from three sports enthusiasts living in Hanoi The Power of One A basketball player who makes us all feel height challenged whenever she enters our shop said that although her novel of choice had boxing as a sub-theme, The Power of One by Bryce Courtenay has one of the most incredible, fictional protagonists she’s ever come across. The novel is set in South Africa in the 1930s and 40s and follows an underdog’s attempts to gain recognition when dignity is usurped by the fear and coercion of apartheid-supporting bullies. It is written in four books with the second making your spirits soar, your soul weep, and choral music swell from the pages into your imagination. Characters from the book remain as inspirational icons in your mind. The idea of fighting for the greater good and of perseverance in the face of seeming insurmountable hardships was enlightening for her. Peekay, the young, white, male hero, reinforces the concept that the one who should be held as an example is the one who does not seek power. The novel contains scores of maxims that any person seriously concerned with ethical self-development will adopt. The most often quoted is: ‘first with the head and then with the heart, you’ll be ahead from the start’; and our basketballer’s favorite is: ‘besides love, independence is the greatest gift an adult can give a child’. The novel was made into an underwhelming movie that made our basketballer want to throw tomatoes at the screen. She says that it completely omitted the author’s belief that: “the power of one is above all things — the power to believe in yourself, often well beyond any latent ability you may have previously demonstrated. The

mind is the athlete, the body is simply the means it uses to run faster or longer, jump higher, shoot straighter, kick better, swim harder, hit further, or box better.”

ROUGH AND TUMBLE Ostensibly our avid rugby player reader chose Thomas Hughes’ 1857 novel Tom Brown’s Schooldays because it is set in the British boarding school that gave the game its name, and because it describes the genesis of the game played today. When Tom Brown was sent off to the school as an adolescent, he took part in the free for all that the game then was, when up to 200 players tried to get possession of a small leather ball that they’d attempt to carry to a specified area of a pitch several acres in size. To the reader it appears that everyone was intent on knocking the hell out of each other in a game that changed rules each time it was played. Our avid rugby playing reader, an aspiring psychologist, is also interested in struggles for power that exist among any group of people. He acknowledges that in every collection of humans who must coexist at close quarters there will be some order that emerges or that is imposed — for good or for bad. Thus, apart from rugby, the aspect that first caught his eye was the tug of war between good and evil in a boarding school where the eldest students made up the rules. In Tom’s time at the school the hierarchy changed from being ethically motivated under the Brooke brothers’ paternal influence to a place of bullying, torture and torment under Flashman (one of literature’s enduring soldiers of fortune and greed). Order is restored when Tom and his friends become school leaders.

Our reader also used the novel as a beginning point of his PhD research into the very British assertion that athletic games and the moral values they are presumed to instil are goals in their own right, and that manliness is intimately associated with athleticism.

A GRAND HORSE RACE A cyclist enters the fray and tells us that when the view of the shiny lycra bums of his weekend cycling pack becomes too intense he likes to slow down, turn off into a quiet country road and cogitate. His pondering upon the question we gave him resulted in Velvet Brown, the cottony haired, bucktoothed, 14-year-old daughter of a country butcher in pre-war coastal Sussex. Our cyclist instructs us to evaporate any visions of young and beautiful Elizabeth Taylor playing Miss Brown in the tear jerking movie National Velvet, and to concentrate instrad on Enid Bagnold’s inventive fairytale that was up to its ears in rain, muck and a bit of pain, and was more about the vagaries of family relationships than of a winsome lass winning the Grand National Steeplechase on a piebald horse called Pie that she’d won in a raffle. Our cogitator likes to imagine that his comfortably brought up little daughters will have the imagination and the courage of plain Miss Brown — to grow up and win recognition — but then have the maturity not to bask for long in its adulation. It’s a hard task in today’s selfie obsessed world. As Velvet insisted, eschewing fame and fortune, it was Pie who won the race, not her. For more information on Bookworm go to bookwormhanoi.com

wordvietnam.com | August 2015 Word | 137

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138 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam.com

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Business Buff / Body and Temple / Amazing Grapes / A world of Good / Coffee Cup / Bar Stool / Top Eats / The Empty Wok Photo by Francis Xavier 140 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam.com

HCMC Essentials

BAKERIES ABC BAKERY BAKERY & CAFÉ

223 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1

phamngulao.abcbakery.co

Baguettes, croissants, pizza, cakes, muffins, donuts and brownies, this bakery and café all in one is a popular stop for those heading through the Backpacker District. Online ordering available. BREAD TALK CHAIN BAKERY

106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 2 Cao Thang, Q3; Vivo City, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7

breadtalkvietnam.com

A Singaporean bakery chain that is vying for the Vietnam cake and bread market. Produces Asian-friendly patisseries and cakes in a spacious, airy atmosphere. Has eight locations and counting. CRUMBS BAKERY & CAFE

117 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1992

crumbs.com.vn

Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic–based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available. Excellent Australianstyle meat pies. HARVEST BAKING AMERICAN BAKERY

harvestbaking.net

With a production facility in Thu Duc, Harvest Baking focuses on both the retail and non-retail trade, cooking up the best American-style bakery products in the city. Has an excellent home delivery service. Check the website for details.

L’AMOUR BAKERY & CAFE

Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072

lamourbakery.com.vn TOUS LES JOURS BAKERY & CAFE

180 Hai Ba Trung, Q1; 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1; 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1; 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3; Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7; 17/14 Le Thanh Ton, Q1

touslesjoursbakery.com

The background of this Korean bakery chain makes interesting reading. Established in 1996, in 2004 they opened in the US, 2005 in China and 2007 in Vietnam. French-styled with an Asian touch, the bare-brick décor makes this a popular joint. Has over 25 locations in Vietnam.

Nam Phong Bookstore was founded at the of end 2002 in Ho Chi Minh City as the first and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam. Only books written in French are for sale, covering for all ages and tastes. A catalogue is available at namphongsaigon.com PNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE

2A Le Duan, Q1; 2nd Floor Parkson Center, 35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1

pnc.com.vn

Although there are some English-language texts in this modern, well laid out bookstore, the focus here is on all things Vietnamese. Worth checking out, thought, for the occasional gem.

M M M VOELKER BAKERY

39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6296 0066

voelker-vietnam.com

French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

M M M BOOKSHOPS FAHASA VIETNAMESE / ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE

40 Nguyen Hue, Q1; 60-62 Le Loi, Q1

fahasa.com

Selling up a good selection of English language books — in a range of reading areas — this multi-storied bookshop also does stationery, toys and a range of related products. Has a good selection of ESL texts. LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM PHONG 82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 7858

facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam. NORDCHAM 17th Floor, Petroland Tower, 12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08) 5416 0922

nordcham.com

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM 40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045

pbgvn.com

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3046

sbghcm.org

M M M CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES

BUSINESS GROUPS ANUPA ECO LUXE AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AMCHAM) New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.

amchamvietnam.com

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AUSCHAM) 2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912

auschamvn.org

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM (BBGV) 25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 8430

bbgv.org

CANADIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (CANCHAM) Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3754

canchamvietnam.org

Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business associates together and to

LEATHER & JEWELLERY

9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394

anupa.net Monday to Sunday, 9am to 8pm

This centrally located unique boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear, pendant scarves and cushion covers. BAM SKATE SHOP SKATEWEAR / STREET

174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 641826

Bamskateshop.com.vn BLUE DRAGON

SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

PARKSON PLAZA

35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE

65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING

1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2084 GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN DESIGN & JEWELLERY

35 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8162

galleryvivekkevin.com

This retail-cum-gallery space specialises in contemporary and exclusive handcrafted jewellery made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials. Exhibitions and gallery talks run every month. GINKGO

SAIGON SQUARE 77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

VINCOM CENTER 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING

10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8755; 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 6270 5928

ginkgo-vietnam.com

Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom

ZEN PLAZA

54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

BUSINESS BUFF THE MOST EXPENSIVE HOLIDAYS IN THE WORLD

BY SHANE DILLON

A nine-day trip to Whichaway Camp in Antarctica is one of the most expensive holidays in the world

015 is flying past and I am just back from annual leave. This year the family and I headed back home to Australia and for the first time in many years. The currency exchange worked in our favour and it wasn’t the obscene black hole of expense as in years gone by. And while any holiday with the family in Australia is never cheap, it wasn’t too bad. So why not this month look at the holidays you could take if money was no object? First class, unique experiences? Look right this way. Ampersand Travel is offering those with the funds the chance to reign over three of India’s most fabled, fit-for-royalty estates: the Lake Palace in Udaipur, Umaid Bhawan Palace in Jodhpur and Rambagh Palace in Jaipur. The trip includes three nights at every palace, with exclusive use of each. The King of the Castle package costs from US$1,670,200 (VND36.4 billion). The Aman Group owns some of the most decadent hotels in the world and it doesn’t get more lavish than spending a year sleeping at all of them. There are 31 hotels in total, meaning around 12 nights at each; but guests can tailor their trip. So if you want to spend longer looking at temples in Bhutan or within Sri Lanka’s Galle Fort, not an issue. The Year at Aman package costs from US$286,000 (VND6.23 billion) a person. Most ski towns are no strangers to super chalets, with real-estate prices for these traditional alpine homes regularly reaching

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the several-million mark. So it’s no surprise that renting them for just a week can cost a lot. In Gstaad, Chalet Lottie has its own cinema and sauna, as well as the requisite dedicated personal chauffeur and chef; Chalet N in Austria’s Oberlech has all that and even more, from US$55,000 (VND1.2 billion) a week. Butch Cassidy once rolled into the mining town of Dunton Hot Springs, in a valley just across a mountain from Telluride in Colorado. He etched his name into the bar for posterity. As well as checking out the famous former patron’s signature, guests of this restored ghost town can enjoy the thermal waters, original saloon and stand-alone wood cabins. Exclusive hire of Dunton Hot Springs costs from US$147,000 (VND3.2 billion) a week and sleeps 44. For a once-in-a-lifetime chance to see the South Pole, sign up for a tour to Whichaway Camp in Antarctica. Fly to Cape Town, where your expedition will begin, then be guided by expert polar explorers across the world’s southernmost continent. The camp only has six sleeping pods and the trip runs just three times a year, during November and December. From US$71,000 (VND1.5 billion) a person for nine days. The magnate who owns Red Bull is also behind Laucala, a luxury retreat in Fiji accessible only by private plane. It may be exclusive (for those who have just shy of US$154,000 or VND3.4 billion a night going spare), but it’s also eco-friendly: the

estate refuses to import meat and produce, choosing instead to rear and grow its own. It even bottles its own mineral water. From US$1,068,790 (VND23.3 billion) a week exclusive hire for up to 72 guests. The magician David Copperfield is the owner of Musha Cay, a string of islands in the Bahamas, available for loan for eyewatering nightly rates. The sandbar picnics, secluded beach houses and the chance to play billiards on Houdini’s old table might just make it worth it. Seven nights, from about US$402,000 (VND8.8 billion) exclusive hire for 12 guests. The price may seem staggering, but let’s break it down: the Journey to Nature’s Edge by Natural World Safaris lasts 111 days in total, covers 12 countries, offers a chance to see 18 of the world’s most vulnerable species and US$100,000 (VND2.2 billion) per booking is donated to a conservation fund. Spot white rhinos by helicopter in Kenya, search for tigers in India, see polar bears in the Arctic and track down giant tortoises in the Galapagos Islands. Hop on and off a private jet as a pilot navigates you around the world in 28 days. The itinerary will take in all of the iconic major sights, from Machu Picchu in Peru to Easter Island’s unforgettable stone statues, via the Sydney Opera House and Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia. A 28-day tour costs from US$108,500 (VND2.4 billion) a person. After putting this together, Shane is ready for another holiday. He can be contacted at shanedillon@pacificcross.com

wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.

M M M COOKING CLASSES

IPA-NIMA BAGS & ACCESSORIES

77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2701

ipa-nima.com

AIRLINES

LITTLE ANH-EM BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING

AIR ASIA airasia.com AIR FRANCE airfrance.com.vn

37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old, Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other accessories. L’USINE

CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines.com JAPAN AIRLINES vn.jal.com

LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES

First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565

lusinespace.com

Exclusive labels, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/ café. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles. MANDARINA

JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar.com/vn/en

TAILOR-MADE SHOES

171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5267

OVERLAND CLUB 35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734

overlandclub.jp

The Overland Club organises pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating paper and multinational cuisine days. SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8485

saigoncookingclass.com

Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The threehour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class. VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349

vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com

M M M KOREAN AIR koreanair.com LAO AIRLINES laoairlines.com

ORANGE BUDGET CLOTHING

152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 2620

9am to 10pm PAPAYA

BUDGET CLOTHING

232 Bui Vien, Q1

MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines.com SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair.com

papaya-tshirt.com T&V TAILOR TAILORS

39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 4556

triciaandverona.com U.BEST HOUSE TRAVEL GEAR

THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways.com.vn

163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: 0978 967588

Ubesthouse.com VESPA SHOP

TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair.com VIETJETAIR vietjetair.com VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines.com

VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS

80 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

CRAFTS & FURNITURE ATC FURNITURE ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE

268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3932 6455; 30A Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3840 3946

atc-craft.com

AUSTIN HOME REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS

42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 0023

austinhomeinteriors.com

This An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks. CHI LAI HOME FURNISHINGS

175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4543

chilai.com

This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected highquality designs and competi-

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BODY

AND

TEMPLE

PERFORMANCE NUTRITION TIPS

on’t diet — it simply doesn’t work. Instead, making small changes to what you consume can equate to big gains when it comes to getting the most out of your training and exercise efforts. Here are four key nutrition tips that could boost your results from ordinary to extra-ordinary:

1) Focus on Reducing Inflammation

Exercise stresses your energy systems and damages muscle and connective tissue. Your body improves and grows only when you recover. By exercising you effectively create an inflamed state, so your pre and post workout needs to focus on reducing inflammation to boost recovery and growth. Omega-3 is a great anti-inflammatory, where as omega-6 promotes inflammation. Aim to balance omega-3 to omega-6 by eating fish, grass-fed animal products, consuming fish oil and avoiding vegetable oils. To boost post-workout gains by improving protein synthesis and reducing inflammation, take 4g of high quality fish oil.

2) Use Caffeine Wisely

There are a number of articles and research studies touting the health benefits of coffee. Coffee does possess health benefits, but for maximum

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performance and fat loss paybacks you need to be aware of how caffeine personally effects you and the best times to consume it. Performance-wise, caffeine is the most effective legal performanceenhancing substance available. Take an espresso shot before training anytime you feel unmotivated, tired, or simply require a boost. However, due to it’s effect on cortisol, try never to take it when anxious or after a workout.

BY PHIL KELLY

to reduce and manage your cortisol levels (stress) to maximise results by taking vitamin C post-workout or anytime you’re stressed. Dehydration is another major concern when attempting performance and fat loss goals. Inadequate water consumption will raise cortisol levels considerably. Aim to drink 800mls per 23kg of body weight.

3) Manage Hormones Hormones control every function your body has and therefore every action you engage in elicits a hormonal response. By performing smart actions you can maximise your hormone responses to optimise performance and fat loss outcomes. Charles Poliquin, the worlds leading strength and conditioning coach, suggests that the aim is to “optimise baseline levels of hormones, particularly testosterone, because it is a significant indicator of athletic ability. Higher resting T means you’ll get more out of workouts to induce greater muscle gains”. Testosterone levels are affected by sleep, vitamin D3, zinc and magnesium levels. You need to have adequate amounts of these while minimising alcohol consumption and exposure to estrogens or estrogen-promoting substances. Stress (or cortisol) also has major negative impacts when striving for improved performance and fat loss. Aim

4) Take a Multi-Vitamin Again, combating stress is the major key to achieving gains. With added stress your body needs extra B vitamins to repair and reenergise. Both mental and physical stresses deplete vitamin stores, particularly vitamin B5. I also recommend additional anti-oxidants to help fight free-radical development and help repair cell damage. A lot of people I see working hard achieve slow results, which fosters a loss of motivation, frustration and finally giving up on their health, performance or fat loss efforts. Obtaining results is all down to how your body can recover from the stress of exercise. The faster your body can recover the faster you will see results. There are many aspects to recovery and these are a mere few to point you in the right direction. Phil is founder and master trainer at Body Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763 or at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)

HCMC Essentials

tive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories. EM EM SOUVENIRS

38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4408

M M M CYCLING FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM

firstBIKE.com.vn

FirstBIKE balance bikes for two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training wheels or stabilisers, and support proper balance development.

8am to 9.30pm

JETT CYCLES

FEELING TROPIC

384 Tran Phu, Q5; 168 Vo Thi Sau, Q3

FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES

51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181 Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above.

OWN-BRAND CYCLING SHOWROOM

jett-cycles.com

The showroom home of Jett Cycles, a homegrown cycling company with all products designed in Vietnam. Sells up budget bicycles to high-end product, with the full range of accessories in between. Also stocks GT and Cannondale. SAIGON CYCLES CYCLING & ACCESSORIES

44 Phan Van Nghi (S51-1 Sky Garden 2), Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3114

xedapcaocap.com

mekong-creations.org

Specialising in Trek and Surly, Saigon Cycles is also famed for its Sunday morning rides. Sells the full range of accessories and also does bicycle repairs.

NGUYEN FRERES

THE BIKE SHOP

MEKONG CREATIONS FAIR TRADE CRAFTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110

NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS

2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9459

8am to 8pm

MEKONG QUILTS HAND-MADE QUILTS

1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110

mekong-quilts.org NHA XINH HOME FURNISHINGS

2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115

nhaxinh.com

CYCLING & ACCESSORIES

250 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6405

thebikeshopvn.com

The go-to location for all your cycling needs in District 2. Sells a range of brands including Cannondale, Jett, GT and Aluboo, as well as the full selection of accessories. Organises regular cycle rides, does repairs and rentals. Check facebook.com/thebikeshopvn for more details.

M M M DENTAL CLINICS

REMIX DECO INDOOR FURNITURE

222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190

remixdeco.com

THE FURNITURE HOUSE HOME FURNISHINGS

81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643 THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE

3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6657 0788

thefurniturewarehouse. com.vn

ACCADENT INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800

accadent.com

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424

internationalsos.com

Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available.

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AMAZING GRAPES In the first of a series of new columns on wine, take a sip of biodynamic wines with sommelier and wine guru, Jim Cawood

An organic vineyard in the US

am generally open-minded about most things, but when it comes to wine I am quite conservative. I am not into funky packaging or weird and wonderful blends of this or that. I like my styles to be classic and my varietals correct. You could say I am a ‘no nonsense’ wine drinker. When wines labeled ‘organic’ or ‘biodynamic’ first became commercially available about 10 years ago, my reaction was one of disdain. For me it was just another marketing ploy, a way to off load inferior plonk, (which the majority of these wines were). I guess it was the abysmal quality of these early organic wines that was the thorn in my side. Now don’t get me wrong, I am all for organic produce and I am anti-GM food technology, pesticides, etc. I want my food to be as free of additives as possible. The problem for me was that what constituted ‘certified organic’ was not clear and varied from country to country. The extra step of biodynamic viticulture seemed to me to be a fad; something for sea changers who were only really acting out their dream of bonding with nature, trying to escape the modern world. I mean, come

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on: burying manure filled cows horns in the vineyard? Harvesting by the moon? It seemed like hocus pocus.

Change of Heart The first time I began to question my own cynical belief was when I tasted the full range of Maison Champy in 2012. Champy is one of Burgundy’s oldest producers. They had just begun the process of converting all of their estates to biodynamic farming. The difference in the wine from their vineyards that had already been converted to biodynamic farming methods to those that had not was remarkable. The biodynamic vineyards had purer fruit expression, and had more intense colour and greater length of flavour. It was quite eye opening and I was forced to eat my words. Of course it makes sense — wine is made from grapes that reflect their growing season and conditions. If they are nurtured and supplied with organic nutrition it can only be good, right? It all happens in the vineyard, and while you can make good wines from average grapes, only great grapes will yield something truly extraordinary.

So now when I see a wine label stating that it was produced by organic or biodynamic methods, I no longer turn up my nose. It is, of course, no guarantee of quality, but from what I have tasted recently it is beginning to become one. The way of the future is deeply rooted in our pagan past and it is here to stay.

Connoisseur’s Choice 2008 Alveirão ‘Encostas Do Vale Godinho’, D.O.C. Tejo Tomar Portugal produces so much more than just Port wine, although very few make their way to Vietnam. Made from 100 percent Castelão, (a native variety to Portugal, think earthy shiraz), this is a great example of the individuality that biodynamics can add to a wine’s character. Packed full of plush plum fruit with an enticing gaminess and a spicy finish, it is now fully mature, but in no way over the hill. For me, it’s a great wine for amazing value and seems to handle anything you can throw at it. Jim Cawood has been working in the wine industry for over two decades. He is presently man-at-the-helm at his District 2 restaurant, Lubu

HCMC Essentials

MAPLE HEALTHCARE DENTAL & CHIROPRACTICS

Md6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 (across from FV Hospital), Tel: Tel: (08) 5410 0100

maplehealthcare.net

Specialising in healthcare, dental services and chiropractic medicine, the recently opened Maple Healthcare comes replete with the latest technology together with efficient and comfortable service. MINH KHAI DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 3399

STARLIGHT CLINIC

DENTAL

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222 24, Thao Dien,Q2

starlightdental.net

Long–established, modern clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6777

westcoastinternational.com

An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

M M M GALLERIES CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel: 0903 888431

cthomasgallery.com

Located in a quiet corner of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-and-coming and established local artists. In operation since 2009, its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade. DOGMA 8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1

dogmacollection.com

The home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a collection put together over the last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the majority of the work comes from the war period when provocative poster art was used to inspire and motivate. Sells prints of the originals and related products.

Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists

Ope

nin g

015 An Phu Summer 2

GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8019

galeriequynh.com

In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications. HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4441

baotangmythuattphcm.vn

Set in one of the finest remaining buildings of colonial-era Vietnam, this multi-storey museum houses collections spanning centuries of Vietnamese art. Has regular exhibitions. SAN ART 48/7 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6294 7059

san-art.org

am Award for “Excellence in 4 Vietn Dent - 201 istry by Vietnam Economic Times 0 1 ” 20

Starlight An Phu

Starlight City Center

24 Thao Dien, Dist.2, HCMC starlightdental@gmail.com www.starlightdental.net

02 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Dist.3, HCM City (Ho Con Rua - Turtle Lake) Tel: 38 22 62 22

MINH KHAI DENTAL CLINIC 199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Dist.1, HCM City - Tel: 39 25 33 99 NO.1 DENTAL CLINIC 51 Ba Thang Hai Street, Dist.10, HCM City - Tel: 39 29 09 09

San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists / curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

M M M GROCERIES & LIQUOR ANNAM GOURMET MARKET GROCERY & DELI

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9332; 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630

Annam-gourmet.com

Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. CLASSIC FINE FOODS GROCERIES & IMPORTER

No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105

classicfinefoods.com

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HCMC Essentials

Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

massage and some excellent treatments. CAT MOC SPA 63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6295 8926

catmocspa.com

Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services. CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4625

Conceptcoiffure.vn MEATWORKS BUTCHERY BUTCHERS 1 Street 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2565

meatworksasia.com

Focusing on the retail trade, the meat at this Australianmanaged butcher comes pre-prepared and, if you so wish, pre-marinated. Sells up some of the best imported meats in town together with homemade sausages, free-range products and excellent Australian grassfed steak.

Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien. A full range of services is offered including a dedicated kids salon. FAME NAILS SALON 3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909 682 827

famenails.com

GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8368

glowsaigon.com PHUONG HA GROCERS

58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 1318 A small yet amazingly wellstocked store that puts many a supermarket in this country to shame. As well as a dizzying selection of imported foods, also sells frozen meat and fish, fruit, vegetables, herbs, spices and a wide selection of dairy products. THE WAREHOUSE WINE SHOP

15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits. VEGGY’S GROCERS & DELI

29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8526 Courtesy of a farm in Dalat, Veggy’s retails some of the best quality fruit and veg available in the city. Also has a wide selection of imported food products including USDA beef, the same beef served up at El Gaucho.

M M M HAIRDRESSERS, SALONS & SPAS AVEDA HERBAL SPA Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671

avedaherbal@gmail.com

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Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes, to two-hour hot stone therapy, includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area. HAIR BAR CONTEMPORARY SALON

68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (FREEPHONE) 1800 1108

hairbar.vn

A unique themed hair salon where stylists use no scissors but styling equipment only, giving female clients the opportunity to get their hair done on the run. Of course, they have to look fabulous, too. Fortunately this is one of Hair Bar’s specialities. Check the salon out on Facebook: facebook.com/ hairbarvn. INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7188

Indochine-spa.com.vn

Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment. JASMINE 45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2737

Jasminespa.vn

Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services including

QUYNH BEAUTY SALON 104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321 A District 2 favourite, this is the salon to head to for anything from massage to haircuts, hairwashing to nails. Cheap prices, too. SPA TROPIC 79 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 5575

SPORTS CRICKET

astere@hotmail.fr

Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service.

ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington, Tel: 0909 967 353

SAIGON RAIDERS

M M M

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038

spatropic.com

HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC CHIROPRACTOR

161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3939 3930

www.acc.vn

ACC provides effective chiropractic, physiotherapy, acupuncture and foot care treatments through the use of cutting edge technology for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries as well as all types of foot related problems without the need of drugs or surgery. AMERICAN EYE CENTER 5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759

americaneyecentervn.com

American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Board-certified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience. The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments. Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available. CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI) FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC

1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2366

cmi-vietnam.com

This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy, ophthalmology, paediatrics and acupuncture.

richard.car rington@ market-edge.asia eccsaigon.com

Saigonraiders.com SAIGON RUGBY CLUB RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7

saigonrugbyfootballclub@ yahoo.com SAIGON SAINTS

saigonsaints.com

deepteshgill@gmail.com

SPORTS — GENERAL

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244

HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090

samie.cashmiri@gmail. com

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824

sacccricket@gmail.com

SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010

suhard.amit@yahoo.com

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034

npasifali@hotmail.com

VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA) Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598

manish@ambrij.com

FOOTBALL & RUGBY AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL Tel: 0937 683 230

vietnamswans.com

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

gauloisdesaigon.com

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171.

saigonhash.com

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM

isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE

thesidl.com

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE

saigonsoftball.info

SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB

saigonshootersnetball. blogspot.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100

saigonsportsacademy.com

SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176

thelandmarkvietnam.com TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, Tel: 0938 889899

James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn ULTIMATE FRISBEE RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7

Saigon-ultimate.com

X–ROCK CLIMBING 7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6278 5794

xrockclimbing.com

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

tic services and 24/7 emergency care. Specialist care is available in many fields.

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848; 95 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2000

vietnammedicalpractice.com

CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as CGV, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

CINEBOX

240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425

cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521

lottecinemavn.com

Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly– qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in– patient and out–patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations. FV HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC SKIN CARE / COSMETICS Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 6999

sianclinic.com

The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic utilises the latest therapies.

fvhospital.com

International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, especially maternity care. FV SAIGON CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 6167

fvhospital.com

State–of–the–art medical centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE SKIN CARE / COSMETICS

99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1990

stamfordskin.com

Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures. TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL EASTERN MEDICINE

187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 6579 VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

GALAXY CINEMA

230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567

galaxycine.vn IDECAF

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451

idecaf.gov.vn

HANH PHUC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

Binh Duong Boulevard, Thuan An District, Binh Duong Tel: (0650) 363 6068

hanhphuchospital.com

Claiming to be the first Singapore-standard hospital in Ho Chi Minh City, this institution based on the outskirts of town is gaining a growing reputation for service and treatment. Specialises in providing healthcare to women and children. Has a clinic at 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1

CGV CINEMAS

Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 2222; Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6297 1981; Level 2, Thao Dien Mall, 12 Quoc Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 3000; Level 5, SC VivoCity, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 3775 0555; Level 7, Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 2222 0388

cgv.vn

HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER EASTERN MEDICINE

432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969 INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424

internationalsos.com

The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnos-

79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 4545

victoriavn.com

Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

M M M INSURANCE IF CONSULTING IBC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7362

insuranceinasia.com

Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs. For emergencies call 0903 732365 LIBERTY INSURANCE 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 1800 599 998

libertyinsurance.com.vn

wordvietnam.com | August 2015 Word | 149

A WORLD

PROGRESS V INNOVATION

GOOD

BY DANA MCNAIRN

An image from the Harold Crooks and Mathieu Roy documentary, Surviving Progess (2012)

recently gave a talk on utilising ‘innovative partnerships’ as a way to solve ‘human capital’ issues within the hospitality and tourism industry. But I was reluctant to pepper my talk with ‘innovation’ or ‘innovative’ and instead used the word ‘progressive’. Raise your hand if your office regularly uses, or urges, ‘disruptive innovation’. This state of affairs is laid firmly at the feet of Clayton Christensen, a Harvard business professor whose 1997 book The Innovator’s Dilemma remains entrenched on university reading lists, despite the fact it’s been widely criticised and last year, eviscerated in The New Yorker by staff writer (and Harvard history professor) Jill Lepore. (The dilemma, by the way, is when ‘doing the right thing is the wrong thing’.) A successful business is prosperous because of ‘good’ decision-making. So bosses tend to make similar decisions over a period of time because it ‘worked before’. To put progress versus innovation into context requires a quick historical tour: the 18th century championed progress (Age of Reason); the 19th century had evolution (increasing civil secularity); the 20th century embraced growth (capitalist commodification), followed quickly by innovation (mint flavour in toothpaste). It’s that last bit we’re stuck on. Keeping

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in mind that innovation simply means to ‘make changes in anything established’, bosses’ decision-making must now embrace ‘disruption’ and with it shiny, forwardfacing innovation. Yet, this approach, as Lepore says, is based on ‘profound anxiety about financial collapse, an apocalyptic fear of global devastation, and shaky evidence’. Innovation is not progress. Innovation is the incremental tinkering we do to stuff, but innovation cannot make claims to the contribution of a group’s betterment, let alone a contribution to the ideal standard in society. Educating girls, reproductive health freedom and criminalising war rape are not innovations; this is progress. The hyperactive narrative has become ‘innovate or die’; ‘disrupt or be disrupted’ (ack!). This is fear mongering disguised as business (or development) — guru-speak billowing out of ‘innovation centres’. Nonprofits, for-profits and academia are urged to install ‘innovation teams’ in order to ‘innovate disruptively’, so as not to get left behind (ack!). (Can you hear the doomsday vibe?) This used to be called good ol’ research and development and it was never fraught with the handwringing we see today. Yes, progress has also given us two world wars, the possibility of nuclear annihilation and repeated genocides (and perversely was also used in

pro-slavery rhetoric), but the argument here does not confuse progress with virtue. The triumphalist innovation (or disruption) cannot claim the future as it desires, like progress can. Innovation resides in the commercial world of immediacy and cutthroat competition; progress is our grand design on an intended, deliberate pathway. Innovation is reactive; progress is proactive. We need to focus on what organisations do well, yes, but instead of fixating over innovations, the organisation should be exploring how it can create and deliver actual new knowledge, not fragmentation. Perhaps what’s called for is a healthier dose of skepticism when it comes to ‘new and improved’. PayPal founder Peter Thiel once remarked, “We wanted flying cars, instead we got 140 characters”. He was referring to our inability to elongate our time focus. This applies to for-profits and nonprofits: innovation is a development shortcut. What we don’t need are the whiz-bang distractions of innovation, but rather the hard slog of solutions that require long-term commitment. Not as glamorous, sure, but absolutely necessary. Dana McNairn is the CEO of KOTO, a nonprofit social enterprise and vocational training programme for at-risk youth

HCMC

International insurance firm providing the full range of services to the individual — car insurance, travel insurance, health insurance, home insurance and much more.

Essentials

BLUE CROSS VIETNAM 4th Floor, Continental Tower, 8185 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9908

bluecross.com.vn

Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home. Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance contact them for a free quote.

TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES 181 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 5367

ten-pac.com

A full-service insurance broker offering a wide range of insurance solutions from the best local and international providers. Recommendations are based exclusively on client needs.

M M M INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (ABCIS) Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833; Saigon South Campus 2 (Foundation Stage & Early Primary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833

puses in District 2, offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP). BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS) 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2335

bisvietnam.com

Inspected and approved by the British Government, BIS provides a British style curriculum for an international student body from pre-school to Year 13. The school is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISIA, BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam.

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS) Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 2727; Thao Dien Campus, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960; Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 4040

aisvietnam.com

The Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class cam-

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639

The first Canadian international school in Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting academic excellence. Has a newly built campus.

Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings, MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities.

cis.edu.vn

Energized Engaged Empowered

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (ISHCMC)

ishcmc.com ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL PRE-SCHOOL @ AN PHU 1st and 2nd floor, Somerset Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6287 0804

etonhouse.vn/schools/hcmc

Following an international curriculum for children aged 18 months to six years, in the early years, an InquireThink-Learn approach is followed, inspired by the Reggio Emilia Project of Northern Italy. It is a play-based, inquiry model in which children coconstruct their learning in close, respectful collaboration with their teachers. This helps us provide an environment where children take responsibility for their own learning, allowing them a head start in life.

A fully accredited IB World School, authorised to teach all three programmes of the International Baccalaureate curriculum to students aged 2 to 18 years, ISHCMC is fully accredited by both the Council of International Schools (CIS) and the New England Association of Schools and Colleges (NEASC), two of the most prestigious international accreditation organisations. Has over 1,000 students from over 50 different nationalities.

KIDS CLUB SAIGON 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 5944

kidsclubsaigon.com

Early childhood centres in Phu My Hung offering creative play-based programmes for children ages two to five. Known for unique facilities, experienced staff, highquality learning resources, and small class sizes.

EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS)

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL (ISSP)

730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Q2, Vietnam, Tel: (08) 7300 7257

92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 2222 7788

eishcmc.com

The European International School offers a supportive and challenging academic education from Early Years to Grade 12 based on the IB curriculum. EIS is a Nobel Talent School and is part of the Nobel Education Network. The school educates global citizens to enjoy learning, inquiring and caring for others.

montessori.edu.vn

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7, Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext 120/121/122

renaissance.edu.vn

28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100

theabcis.com

Rated as ‘outstanding’ by British government inspectors, academic results puts ABCIS among the top 8 percent of schools worldwide. Provides education for two to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment.

CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 7 Road 23, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3456

issp.edu.vn

Set in a purpose-built campus, International School Saigon Pearl (ISSP) is an elementary school catering for ages 18 months to 11 years. With 90 percent of their teachers having master’s degrees, they are able to promise a vigorous American curriculum while including specialist subjects such as music, art, sport and languages.

Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a family school with first-class facilities including a 350-seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch. SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 15 Street 12, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 8081

saigonkidskindergarten.com

SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative, playful learning environment for children ages two to six. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for all students. SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SSIS) 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 0901

ssis.edu.vn

Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high-school, emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–rounded education at all levels. SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 7827

saigonstarschool.edu.vn

Supported by the Cambridge International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates Montessori methods into nursery and kindergarten programmes to create a stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes allow experienced teachers to cater to individual needs. SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran

TATTOO ARTISTS With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over the past few years there has been an increase in the number of tattoo studios around the city. Customers have the choice of picking their own tattoo out of the many look books on offer in the studios or bringing in their own design. Most of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well. Pricing depends on size and style.

EXILE INK 608

57 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6675 6956

exileinkvietnam.com SAIGON BODY ART

135 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 0908 443311

saigonbodyart.com SAIGON INK

26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1090

tattoovietnam.com

SAIGON TATTOO 31B Nguyen Du, Q1

saigontattoo.net

SAIGON TATTOO Group 81 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0908 573339

xamnghethuat.vn TATTOO SAIGON

128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 0938 303838

tattoosaigon.com

TATTOO TAM BI 209 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0919 034383

xamphunnghethuat. com

HCMC Essentials

Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4236

smartkidsinfo.com

This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment. THE AMERICAN SCHOOL 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 952223

tas.edu.vn

M M M PROPERTY RENTALS CHUM’S HOUSE 121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7237 EASY SAIGON Tel: 0932 112694

easysaigon.com

The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome.

M M M MOTORBIKES CHI’S CAFÉ RENTALS

185/30 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 0903 643446

chiscafe.com

Probably the best-known motorbike rental joint in town with over 200 bikes and a range of models and makes. Rents by the day or by the month. Call or check the website for details. Also does visa extensions. SAIGON BIKE RENTALS Tel: 0972 451273

nga.natalie@gmail.com saigonbikerentals.com

Rents out a range of models including Honda Waves, Yamaha Nouvos, Classicos, Luvias, SYM Attilas and Excels. Call for details and prices. SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE RENTALS / CLASSIC SCOOTERS

HAPPY HOUSE 32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1, Tel: 01659 419916 NAM HOUSE 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700

namhouse.com.vn

Expert in providing rental properties, constructions and interior decoration, especially in District 2. Supports professional services and aftersales. RESIDENT VIETNAM Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855

residentvietnam.com

SNAP 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282

snap.com.vn

Owners of Snap Café in District 2, Snap offers a web– based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs. THE NEST 369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901

thenest-vietnam.com

Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale, orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

77a Hanoi Highway, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 013690

saigonscootercentre.com

Just relocated to its new home in District 2, Saigon Scooter Centre is more than just the place to go for all your classic scooter needs. Also does accessories, quality imported helmets and bike rentals.

M M M RECRUITMENT & HR ADECCO VIETNAM 11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 - 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3430

adecco.com.vn

Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions. Established in Vietnam in 2011, Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office. HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6288 3888

hr2b.com

G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO., LTD. Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B-2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur, District 1, HCMC.

vieclambank.com

VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 1373

vietnamworks.com

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The best-known recruitment website in Vietnam. Post you’re the position you’re looking for and wait for the responses. You’ll get many. Also a good site for expat jobseekers.

M M M RELOCATION AGENTS

AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM) 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071

agsfourwinds.com

A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.

KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490

dancentervn.com

Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio. HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780

helenekling.com ALLIED PICKFORDS 12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220

alliedpickfords.com

With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services. ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower, 9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12, District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3 826 7799

INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER 37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700

Inspirato.edu.vn

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691

Minhnguyenpiano.com

PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON 19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679

paa.com.vn

Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes.

asiantigers-mobility.com

Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management specialists, with services including door-todoor moving, housing and school searches, local and office moves and pet relocations. JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 7655

jvkasia.com

Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is a leader in the field. LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322

logicalmoves.net

Specialists in international, local, domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation.

PIANO CLASSES Tel: 01225 636682

morrissokoloff@hotmail.com SAIGON MOVEMENT Tel: 0987 027 722

saigonmovement@gmail.com SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279 SAIGON PONY CLUB 38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360

Saigonponyclub.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100

saigonsportsacademy.com

International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7. TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149 VINSPACE 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846

vin-space.com

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 0065

santaferelo.com

M M M SERVICED APARTMENTS

town by high-speed boat shuttle. SHERWOOD RESIDENCE 127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 2288

sherwoodresidence.com

Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class, with five–star facilities and service. SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6255 9922

somerset.com

DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 5678

the-ascott.com

Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from two to four-bedroom units with spectacular panoramic views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas, a balcony, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888

intercontinental.com/saigonres

Somerset Chancellor Court, Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

M M M SPORTS & FITNESS

nutrifort.com

A well-appointed gym also offering fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving calorie– calibrated meals. SAIGON HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

saigonhash.com

Sunday 2pm sharp, Caravelle hotel. Bus out to the county with a walk, usually 4km and a run around 8km. VND150,000 for locals and VND220,000 for expats. Bus, water, snacks and freeflow beer after the run. SHERATON FITNESS

STAR FITNESS GYM HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms.

GYM, POOL, SQUASH

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. 176

thelandmarkvietnam.com

In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas.

M M M

sheratonsaigon.com

VIETNAMESE CLASSES

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771

HEALTH CLUB & GYM

17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 A small but well-appointed gym with regular fitness classes, a steam room and sauna. Has a small but consistent membership.

M M M SPORTS GARMENTS

THE LANDMARK CLUB

HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828

Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival crash course.

SCORE-TECH 1870/3G An Phu Dong 3, Q12, Tel: (08) 3719 9588

score-tech.net

vietnameselanguagegarden. com

VLS SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0168

vlstudies.com

CHIARA SQUINZI Tel: 01278 163620

laholista.com

Experienced health coach and corporate & school wellness coach. Can help clients achieve health and weight goals through an innovative holistic approach of food, body and mind. Email chiara@laholista.com for info.

Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area. NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6111

norfolkmansion.com.vn

Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service. Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steam room, as well as two on-site restaurants. RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111

Riverside-apartments.com

Over four Saigon Riverbank hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from down-

CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTRE BOXING / FITNESS 49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel: 0947 771326

cyril-and-you.com

This sports centre in An Phu, started by fitness guru Cyril, features the same personalised mentorship Cyril's clients love. Includes yoga, boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day. No membership fees. Pay for classes. Tuesday to Friday every week at 5pm. All activities are safe and run by Cyril himself.

NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2) GENERAL FITNESS

34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6672

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HCMC On The Town

BARS & CLUBS

BREAD & BUTTER INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD

2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR) TOP-END INTERNATIONAL

Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234

saigon.park.hyatt.com

International décor blends seamlessly with local themes. Style joins forces with a wide-ranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon. ACOUSTIC BAR LIVE MUSIC

6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre, Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars. Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly, as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists.

40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8452 With a free book exchange, and tasty Sunday night roasts, the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City). BROMA, NOT A BAR COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP

41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/ random moments. A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town. Check out their bun bo Hue-inspired cocktail. BUDDHA BAR

APOCALYPSE NOW DANCE / NIGHTCLUB

2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6124

apocalypsesaigon.com

An institution and the kind of place you end up drunk after midnight. Famed for its notso-salubrious clientele, this two-floor establishment with DJs and occasional live music is also famed for its hotdogs, which are served up in the garden terrace out back. BAAN THAI SPORTS BAR / PAN-THAI CUISINE

55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453

baanthai-anphu.com

A bar and a Thai restaurant all in one, the focus here is not just the cuisine but a contemporary bar area and live sports. Lots of live sports. The Thai cuisine is cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs. BLANCHY’S TASH RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB

95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909 028293 blanchystash.com A multi-storey bar with décor and atmosphere more akin to such an establishment in New York or London. Has a reputation for bringing in big-name DJs. And when we say big, we mean big. Check their website for details. BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR

9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907 609202.

bootlegsaigon.com

Reminiscent of a New York or London underground watering hole, this is a great place to enjoy Mediterranean influenced breakfasts, lunch by day and a variety of DJ sets by night.

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RESTOBAR

7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3345 6345

Buddhabarsaigon.com

Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice, authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts, pool and weekly poker tourneys. CENTRO LOUNGE BAR & CAFÉ

11-13 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5946 A café during the day and a bar at night, this kitschly designed but nonetheless attractive establishment is one of the few places in town catering for the pink dollar. Has taken over from where the now defunct Q Bar left off. CHILL SKYBAR TOP-END BAR & TERRACE

Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372

chillsaigon.com

For the spectacular views alone, Chill Skybar remains the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped bar with cityscapes of Saigon. One of the top watering holes in the city. EON HELI BAR LOUNGE BAR

Level 52, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750

eon51.com

Breathtaking views require a vantage point and EON Heli Bar is by far the highest spot in Saigon for a spectacular cityscape, appealing drinks and a vibrant ambience. Night live music and DJs. GAME ON SPORTS BAR

115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08)

6251 9898

gameonsaigon.com

A fresh feel thanks to the large space and light-wood tables makes this Australian-influenced watering hole a popular bar for televised sports, pub food, darts, pool and more. HOA VIEN

CZECH BREWHOUSE

28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8605 hoavien.vn The original microbrewery, this large, wooden-panelled, brass-kegged Czech Brewhouse is as popular as it was 15 years ago when it was first opened. Does a great food menu to accompany the home-brewed beer. ICE BLUE EXPAT BAR

24 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 One of this city’s longest running watering holes — and the original home of the darts league — has recently reopened in its new premises. Naturally, darts are still key here, with each of the bottom three floors having elements devoted to this most pub-friendly of sports. LA HABANA CUBAN / MUSIC BAR

6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5180

lahabana-saigon.com

Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and Cuban cuisine, as well as a few German favourites such as curry wurst and Wiener schnitzel. Nightly live music and regular salsa classes. LA FENETRE SOLEIL FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR

44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese fusion cuisine, imported beer, classic cocktails, and entertaining music events / DJ sets. LAST CALL AFTERHOURS LOUNGE

59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3122

lastcallsaigon.com

If you’re in need of dense, soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever, Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined. Great happy hour deals for early evening starters. LE PUB INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR

175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 7679 Warm colors, artsy décor and

a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Gets busy at weekends with a clientele made up of hip, young Vietnamese and the occasional foreigner. LONG PHI FRENCH / RESTOBAR

207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing, Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine. MAY RESTAURANT & BAR

DELIVERY BEN STYLE

Tel: 0906 912730

www. vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style CHEZ GUIDO

Tel: (08) 3898 3747

LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR

www.chezguido.com

mayrestaurant.com.vn

DOMINO’S PIZZA

19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686 An international comfortfood menu mixes with excellent cocktails and an extensive winelist at this attractive, international bar and restaurant. Dine at the bar or upstairs in the restaurant space. NUMBER FIVE EXPAT BAR

44 Pasteur, Q1 The original expat bar, this institution of a place gets packed every night thanks to its drinking hall atmosphere, attractive bar staff and German food menu. Has regular live music.

Tel: (08) 3939 3030

www.dominos.vn EAT.VN www.eat.vn

HUNGRYPANDA. VN

www.hungrypanda.vn KFC

Tel: (08) 3848 9999

www.kfcvietnam. com.vn

OMG! FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR

LOTTERIA

Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1 A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon.

PIZZA HUT (PHD)

O’BRIEN’S

Tel: (08) 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com

Tel: (08) 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn

Tel: (08) 3838 8388

www.pizzahut.vn SCOOZI

IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL

74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3198

irish-barsaigon.com

This Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub décor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare, large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. Great pizzas. And for a real treat, check out their zesty rolls. ONTOP BAR Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 Located on the 20th floor with stunning views of the city, houses an upscale, contemporary interior and an outdoor terrace. A good venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip ambience.

TACO BICH www.tacobich.com VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com

PEACHES CURRY PUB

S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999 Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and more. A popular local haunt. PHATTY’S AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS

46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0796

phattysbar.com

From its roots as the famed Café Latin, Phatty’s has become the goto, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites. RUBY SOHO CARTOON BAR

S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 A Phu My Hung mainstay thanks to its cartoon décor and light but fun ambience. Has a reasonable food menu to complement the drinks. SAIGON OUTCAST EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR

188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198

Saigonoutcast.com

Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini-skate park and graffiti space. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks, stick around for entertaining events and markets. SAIGON RANGER ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 7300 0559

facebook.com/saigonranger

Aspiring to be a focal point for artistic activities, the space at Saigon Ranger has been established to create encounter and dialogue between different forms of art. Boasts concrete floors, dark wooden furniture, quirky wall designs and a stage for live music and other types of performance. SAIGON SAIGON BAR LIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR

9th Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 1923 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

caravellehotel.com

This iconic bar is a great place to watch the sun go down over the city and relax for a few drinks with friends. Has live entertainment six nights a week courtesy of resident Cuban band, Q’vans, from 9pm Wednesday to Monday. SHRINE BAR LOUNGE BAR

61 Ton Thap Thiep, Q1

shrinebarsaigon.com

Shrine creates a drinking and dining experience in a temple-like atmosphere. Inspired by Bantay Srei, a temple from the ancient Angkor kingdom, the walls are covered in

statues depicting ancient Khmer gods and kings. With ambient lighting and town tempo music, here it’s all about good cocktails and an even better atmosphere. SEVENTEEN SALOON THEMED MUSIC BAR

103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 0007

seventeensaloon.com.vn

Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music venue, where three talented Filipino bands (B&U, Wild West and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses. Top shelf spirits and friendly, hostess style table service are the name game here. SPOTTED COW

The first bar established in Saigon South, great food, great music and loads of laughs. Has regular live music nights, theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please everybody. Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix, with BBQs available for parties and events. VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE INTERNATIONAL

Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698

facebook.com/vespersaigon

A sophisticated yet down-to-earth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and one of the best spirit selections in town. Serves creative, Japanese and Germaninfluenced cuisine to supplement the drinks.

INTERNATIONAL / SPORT

111 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7670

Alfrescosgroup.com

Spotted Cow delivers the fun-loving atmosphere that its playfully decorated black and white spotted interior promises, as well as decent international comfort food, a range of happy hours, live sports, and darts. STORM P DANISH / INTERNATIONAL

5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738

Stormp.vn

Named after the Danish artist Storm P, this long-running bar is the home of Saigon’s Scandinavian community thanks to its laid-back atmosphere and excellent food menu. A good place to watch the live sports. THE CUBE BAR HIP RESTOBAR

31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0903 369798

facebook.com/thecubesaigon

A sleek, industrial looking restobar with edgy décor and just a hint of Spanish style. Tapas, sangria, Iberian-influenced cocktails and an emphasis on all things Latin. THE OBSERVATORY

VINYL BAR MUSIC & SPORTS BAR

70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623

vinylbarsaigon.com

A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a darts area out back and is a popular space for watching the live English Premier League.

are must haves for the avid coffee drinker. AGNES CAFE DALAT COFFEE HOUSE

11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat, smoothies, juices, homemade desserts. Offers up tasty breakfasts, lunch and dinner all the way through until 9pm. BANKSY CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 01699 990003

sam.nguyen197@gmail.com

A small but swanky cafe, Banksy promises a young and vibrant hideout in an old 1960sera apartment building. Remember to head up the steep stairs within to dig into their secret stash of clothes and accessories. CAFE THOAI VIEN 159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 0918 115657

cafethoaivien.com

Veer off the street and find yourself plunging straight into lush greenery. Cafe Thoai Vien serves up a spacious and airy setting to enjoy a quiet sip. From small eats to big bites and everything to drink, it’s a great place to unwind from all that buzz. CHICCO DICAFF CAFÉ ITALIAN & VIETNAMESE

WINE BAR 38 CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968 With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass.

213 Bui Vien, Q1

facebook.com/ChiccoDicaffCoffee

Set just off the street on the quiet end of Bui Vien, Chicco Dicaff serves an expat and local-heavy clientele takeaway coffees and flavoured concoctions, from a five-seat coffee bar.

WINE EMBASSY CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827

wineembassy.com.vn

A two-storey, contemporarydesigned wine bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu to complement the old and new world wines.

BAR, ART & DJ SPACE

5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, (Opposite Elisa Boat) Known for its late night parties and focus on international artists, Observatory is now at a bigger space in District 4. Complete with a new balcony overlooking the Saigon River and an even larger sound system, The Observatory is a key node in the Asian underground music circuit. THE ORIENT SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR

24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1

facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon

An attractive, spacious, brick-wall interior, a long bar, high table seating, big screens, a pool table and live music. A great venue for a few beers and more. THE TAVERN EXPAT & SPORTS BAR

R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900

XU CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR

71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468

xusaigon.com

This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior. Regular DJ nights.

M M M CAFES & ICE-CREAM (A) CAFE 15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701 Settle into the Javanese-style interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews in Saigon. Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat beans, speciality coffee such as cold drip, siphon, and Chemex

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COFFEE CUP BAZAAR COFFEE & STUDIO

Photos by Kyle Phanroy

here’s a type of coffee shop that we don’t typically cover in this space, because they don’t usually have good Italian coffee, or any Italian coffee at all. Don’t be fooled by the cute vintage signboard in front that says “CAFÉ LATTÉ”, there’s no espresso machine in sight. While flipping through the wood grain pages of the menu, the young RMIT student taking our order recommends the yoghurt drinks. But we persist in getting Vietnamese coffees (VND30,000 for a ca phe da, VND5,000 more for sua). The coffee isn’t bad, but there isn’t

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much to recommend it. But that’s kind of missing the point of this café experience.

‘A Romantic Place’ There are several different wall textures: brick, white tile, wood, concrete, brick painted with owl mascot by architectowner Ngoc. Birds chirp in the lane between the two halves of the café. Ceramic owls peer down from nooks in the two-storey wall. Tungsten bulbs dangle from uneven cords suspended from the ceiling at romantic intervals. As our waitress tells us, it’s “a romantic place”.

Poppy music echoes through the space, then in our heads for hours later. The hits they play are part of the experience. It’s an experience you can get at many of the cute, Vietnamese-orientated coffee shops around the city, but Bazaar does it well. In fact, well enough to charge Sunday afternoon photographers for shooting in its space. Places that succeed in what they’re trying are never redundant additions to our café options. — Ed Weinberg Bazaar Coffee & Studio is at 175 Vo Thi Sau, Q3, HCMC, or at facebook.com/ BazaarCoffeeShop

HCMC On The Town

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL

157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1; Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1

coffeebean.com.vn

Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth. DECIBEL INTERNATIONAL

79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6271 0115

Decibel.vn

Trendy without pretense, this two-floor, relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great prices and food with daily specials. GUANABANA SMOOTHIES CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR

23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909 824830

guanabanasmoothies.com

An American-style juice bar and café dedicated to healthy, nutricious smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and condensed milk. A pleasant, contemporary environment adds to the theme.

M2C CAFE 44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2495

facebook.com/m2ccafe

At M2C (Modern Meets Culture), everything gets a touch of modernity. From the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows immense local culture, done with a modern flare. Be seen here at one of the latest popular joint in town. MOCKINGBIRD CAFE 4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0935 293400

facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee

Sitting atop of a number of cafe establishments in an old apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a romantic time over mojitos, or good ol’ caffeine-infused relaxation. PLANTRIP CHA TEA ROOM

8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 0945 830905 Tea, tea and more tea, all in a contemporary, quirky environment. At Plantrip Cha customers go on a sensory journey to experience the tastes and smells of teas from across Asia, Europe, America and the Middle East. THE LOOP HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS

HIDEAWAY INTERNATIONAL

41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4222

Hideawaycafe-saigon.com

Hidden in a colonial building with an outdoor courtyard, the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to relax. The mouth-watering western menu is well-priced and maintains a creative flair. I.D. CAFÉ CONTEMPORARY CAFE

34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2910

Idcafe.net

Centrally located near Ben Thanh Market, i.d offers casual café dining with a wide variety of food and beverages. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet for coffee. L’USINE CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH

First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703

lusinespace.com

French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior of L’Usine. A simple, creative menu combines with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and art gallery out back. Second location on Le Loi.

49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08) 3602 6385 Low-key yet nice-on-the-eye décor helps create the caféstyle atmosphere at this European-influenced café and restaurant. Sells excellent coffee and if you like bagels, here you’ll be in heaven. THE MORNING CAFE 2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 0938 383330

themorningcafe.com.vn

Have a book to read? Pick a bright spot by the window and get snuggly with the comfy upholstery in this second-floor cafe. With a cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent. THE OTHER PERSON CAFE 2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0909 670272

facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe

Fancy being served up by maids in costume? Call for a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking while spending an afternoon in this candy-land inspired cafe. THE PRINT ROOM CONTEMPORARY CAFE

158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse

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BAR STOOL MOTO SAIGON

’m not much of a karaoke gal, and I certainly value a glass of cold ruou vang over a brewski any day, but luckily there’s something for everyone at Moto Saigon’s new haunt. Park yourself at an outside table, drink your draught, pet the dog, and admire the moto-memorabilia; perch yourself on a stool near their cozy stage, while you enjoy your passionfruit mojito; or climb up further and unwind in the soft yellow lighting, while you take in the tunes, have a chat, and enjoy the chilled atmosphere. I’d invited a handful of friends to come with me on a Friday night, and we were happily surprised to have bumped into even more Saigonites, all who were there for Moto’s weekly Open Mic night. Lounging, scattered throughout the intimate, homey, three-floor setup were beloved members of Saigon’s music scene, along with some poets (both local and expat), and even an American comedian. During our stay I didn’t have much of a chance to speak with one of the owners, Dan, as he was instead permeating the shop-house style bar with the smooth

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Photos by Francis Xavier

sound of his voice and musical talents. (I happily stuck to emailing him to iron out the details; much more worth my time to hear him belt out Queens of the Stone Age, while I gratefully sipped my VND50,000 glass of wine.) But here’s what I discovered. Thursdays are still for karaoke. Fridays, as mentioned, are a free for all. They’ve got a ukulele, bass, cajón, two guitars, mics, and a PA system at your disposal. On Saturdays they have a penchant for the live stuff — subject to band bookings. And what would a biker bar be without biker outings? They organise Sunday bike trips out of the city. At the time of writing, the next one planned was for Can Gio Bio Reserve.

In the Works After I situated myself upstairs to better scope out the stage, I began sampling the Mexican street food-inspired menu. The homemade hot sauce is killer — no lie, I want to coax them into selling me a bottle. The lowdown is that one of the business partners, Danh, is from Southern California. Lucky for us, Danh missed all the Mexican food back in Baja. He couldn't

find it here, so he had to make it himself: street corn, bacon wrapped hotdogs, tacos, burritos and salsa. Plus, there’s American comfort food. Screw making me a takeaway hot sauce, I’m moving in. There’s a chaise longue upstairs. I’m golden. Dan told me that the bar will soon have custom parts on display and for sale. “It will be easy for people to come have a drink and customise their bike at the same time,” he explained. Sounds like a win-win. Also, if you’re familiar with his old place, you know you used to be able to rent that baby out for the night. Soon, Dan says, this new location will be open for hire, too. But how do you get there? You know that gigantic District 7 Lottemart on Nguyen Thi Thap? Right. Scoot down NTT with the Lotte on your left, and turn left on Duong 38. This will turn into Duong So 10. But have no fear, you’re nearly there. Make one last left on Duong So 23 and follow it down to the end. Voila! Vespa paraphernalia, acoustic jams, cheap cold drinks and all that Mexican street food awaits you. — Sandee Woodside Moto-Saigon is at 88 Duong So 23, Q7, HCMC or online at facebook.com/moto.saigon

HCMC On The Town

offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read from their book-nook collection. Comfortable couch seating, open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.

match. Also has an excellent garden-style branch at 89 Xuan Thuy, Q2. ASHOKA

has a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Thai cuisine cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs.

NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN

THINGS CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205

facebook.com/thingscafe

Feel the calm and serenity of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old Apartment. The quaint and relaxing atmosphere sets for some alone time, or quality conversations held over a drink or two.

M M M EAT 3T QUAN NUONG VIETNAMESE BBQ

Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631 The original, on-the-table barbecue restaurant still goes strong thanks to its rooftop atmosphere, excellent service and even better fish, seafood and meats. An institution. 27 GRILL GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT

Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372

chillsaigon.com

Besides the spectacular views, the cuisine at 27 Grill is a real draw, with steaks and other international grillstyle fare in a refined yet contemporary atmosphere. Subtle lighting and an extensive wine list make up the mix. AL FRESCO’S INTERNATIONAL

27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 38238424

alfrescosgroup.com

The downtown outlet of one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to

17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372; 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177

ashokaindianrestaurant. com

Long-running, award-winning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare.

BABA’S KITCHEN NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 6661

babaskitchen.in

This pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and fiery vindaloos. Has a delivery outlet in District 2.

AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 7157

aulacdobrazil.com

Au Lac Do Brazil is home to the city's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in Vietnam, passadors bring the meat skewers to your table, and you, the customer then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar. Best washed down with red wine or a caipirinha or five.

AU PARC EUROPEAN / CAFÉ

23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772

auparcsaigon.com

Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads and mezzes, plus coffees and juices — served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and green-tiled décor. BAAN THAI PAN-THAI

55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453

baanthai-anphu.com

Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this An Phu eatery. The menu

BAHDJA 2nd Floor, 27 Le Quy Don, Q3 Tel: 0122 763 1261

bahdjarestaurant@gmail. com Located just above the Thai restaurant Spice, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscousbased dishes. Has a lovely semi-outdoor terrace area.

BIBI@ALIBI 5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6257 The home of legendary French chef Bibi, this convivial restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine uses fresh products bought early morning at the market by Bibi himself. Delicious meats and fish dishes together with the famous tarte tatin. Has a daily specials board.

BLACK CAT AMERICAN

13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055

blackcatsaigon.com

Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails, mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular two-storey eatery close to the river. BLANCHY STREET JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN

The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793 The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito, the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city. All complemented by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy terrace out front. BOAT HOUSE AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL

40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790 A revamp has seen this riverside restaurant get a new management and a new menu — think American-style burgers, sliders and Tex-Mex together with soup and salad and you’ll get the idea. Excellent nachos and frozen margaritas. BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON INTERNATIONAL / GRILL

CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6592

boomarang.com.vn

Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare, all set in a contemporary, spacious environment. CAFÉ IF

etnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew, stir fries, hot pots and curries. CHI’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE

40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2502

Chiscafe.com

This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. Excellent, buildyour-own breakfasts, baked potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a popular motorbike rental service. CIAO BELLA NEW YORK-ITALIAN

11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329

saigonrestaurantgroup.com

New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting. CORIANDER THAI / VIETNAMESE

16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 1311 A small, homely Vietnameseowned Thai restaurant that over the past decade has quite rightly gained a strong local and expat following. Try their pad thai — to die for. CORSO STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL

117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368

norfolkhotel.com.vn

Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite. Decent-sized steaks start at VND390,000.

VIETNAMESE FRENCH

38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vi-

ELBOW ROOM AMERICAN

52 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821

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TOP EATS EON 51 FINE DINING

on 51 offers an elevated dining experience — quite literally. The restaurant is an expectation-raising 51 floors up in Ho Chi Minh City’s iconic Bitexco Tower, and while getting there isn’t as straightforward as you might think, the reward for navigating the building’s car park, escalators and two changes of lift, is a view that few else can offer. With it comes an obvious sense of occasion. But be warned, expensive views don’t come cheap here. The fine-dining menu is split between Asian and Western cuisine, with pricing

more aligned with what we’re used to in the West. Though, even by these standards this is not for the fainthearted. A glass of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc set us back VND200,000, or about a week’s worth of banh mi op la — if that was all you were eating. But as they say in Vietnamese, tien nao cua nay. You get what you pay for. Here you certainly do.

Value for Money So, putting unfair comparisons aside, onto the good part — the food. From our visit it was clear the cuisine cooked up by Chef

Cuong Do and his team easily rises to the occasion. When we were there we went for one of his set menus (VND1,850,000) with the staff accommodating my penchant for duck without problem; including it as my main. Beginning with a medley of starters and hors’ d’oeuvres, including some tonesetting ‘posh guacamole’ with caviar and crab, alongside a bread feature worthy of the Chelsea flower show, for company we choose an Argentinean malbec and the aforementioned sauvignon blanc. Both are from an extensive wine list. The opening

Photos by Francis Xavier

salvos were followed by three dishes, each one tending to let the ingredients speak for themselves — complex but not pretentious. These were a delicious white bean soup with truffle oil, the freshest of salmon tartars — including a beetroot emulsion I wanted more of — and finally an al dente crabmeat risotto.

We could be heroes Onto the mains and once again, the food was spot on. Presented with meticulous care and finesse, our photographer Francis was kept busy. The rack of rare Australian

lamb with taro, polenta and roasted capsicum was beautifully cooked, and when shared with my peach infused duck, provided a harmonious counterpunch. As if we weren’t full enough, out came a moreish desert of crepes with orange milk and a zesty lemon sorbet, a dish that would sit comfortably in any French creperie that I know. The one thing lacking from Eon 51 is atmosphere (no pun intended). To truly elevate itself above the competition, the views aren’t quite enough. Certainly some mood music and possibly some artistic

light direction wouldn’t go astray. But this is splitting hairs. When it came to attentive service, this dining option was a winner. And as for the food, each portion left us craving for more. It was that good. And while dining here isn’t cheap, if first impressions as well as a top-notch experience matter, you’ll be hard pressed to find somewhere better. — Jon Aspin Eon 51 Fine Dining is on the 51st floor of Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, HCMC, Tel: (08) 6291 8750. The Heli Bar with views over the city’s highest helipad is on the floor above

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HCMC On The Town

4327

elbowroom.com.vn

The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains. EL GAUCHO ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE

74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2090; 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1879; Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6909

elgaucho.com.vn

A themed eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill. Slick service, a good wine menu, and caramel vodka teasers at the end of the meal. Probably serves up the best steak in town. EON51 FINE DINING TOP-END EUROPEAN / ASIAN

Level 51, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750

eon51.com

Situated on level 51 of the most iconic building in town, Eon51 Fine Dining offers a unique fine dining experience accompanied by unparalleled 3600 picturesque views of Saigon. The sky-high restaurant proffers the taste of Europe in Asia, orchestrated from the finest local foods and top-quality imported ingredients. GANESH NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4786

ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com

The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. Very friendly service. HOA TUC CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676 Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade. HOANG YEN PAN-VIETNAMESE

7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101; The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304 If you’re looking for midrange, aircon Vietnamese

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restaurants that just seem to do every dish perfectly, then Hoang Yen really is the place to go. The atmosphere may be a bit sterile, but its amply made up for by the efficient service and excellent cuisine. Now with a number of restaurants around town.

with the KOTO vocational training school. All the staff — from bar tenders and waiting staff through to the chefs — come from disadvantaged backgrounds and are being trained on the jon in hospitality. Serves up tasty Vietnamese cuisine, to boot!

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ

L’OLIVIER

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL

FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN

Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066

hogsbreathcafe.com.vn

Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace. INAHO SUSHI / SASHIMI

4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326 A sushi bar needs a good chef, and the chef-owner of Inaho is one of the best. Sit downstairs at the low-key bar or upstairs in the private VIP rooms. Either way, this is one of the best sushi and sashimi joints in town.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

sofitel.com

Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team. LA CUISINE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN

48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882

lacuisine.com.vn

This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu, backed up with an extensive wine list.

Drawing inspiration from the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run restaurant bathed in white focuses on wholesome, fresh ingredients, with breads, cheeses, pickles, pastas and preserves made on site daily from scratch. A well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare. Has petanque on the terrace. LUONG SON PAN-VIETNAMESE

31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330 A typical Vietnamese-style quan nhau, this fan-cooled downtown eating and drinking haunt is famed for two things: it’s on the table, grill-it-yourself bo tung xeo (marinated beef) and oddities such as sautéed scorpion. A great place to take out-of-town guests. MARKET 39 INTERNATIONAL BUFFET

Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999

intercontinental.com/saigon

a drinking haunt thanks to its Cajun-inspired, American cuisine; Tex-Mex, excellent burgers, US-style soups and salads. Still furbished as it was 20 years ago. MONSOON PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN

1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era villa, just minutes from the backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy juices and smoothies. NAM GIAO HUE CUISINE

136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38 250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9996

namgiao.com

If you want to take friends, relatives or people out of town to eat Hue-style street food in a hygienic yet downto-earth environment, Nam Giao is the place. Not only is it well-priced, but the bun bo Hue, bun thit nuong, com hen, banh bot loc and other such dishes are excellent.

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL

LE JARDIN

NINETEEN

INTERNATIONAL FUSION

CLASSIC FRENCH

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN

The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931

Alfrescosgroup.com

Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu. Check out their pepper steaks. KABIN CANTONESE

Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033

marriott.com

Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to VND900,000. KOH THAI CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION

Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs. KOTO TRAINING RESTAURANT CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

3rd Floor Rooftop, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3822 9357 The restaurant associated

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap house wine is served by the carafe. LION CITY SINGAPOREAN

45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8371

lioncityrestaurant.com

Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery, plating up the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry. LOVEAT MEDITERRANEAN

29 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6260 2727

loveat.vn

Located bang opposite the Bitexco Tower, Loveat serves up three floors’ worth of Mediterranean cuisine mixed in with continental favourites like moules frites. A great place for dinner, cocktails and wines in a contemporary Saigon atmosphere.

MAY RESTAURANT INTERNATIONAL COMFORT FOOD 19 – 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686

may.restaurant19@gmail. com

Casual yet stylish, May places international-style wining and dining in the heart of historic Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating, an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this multifloored restaurant and bar. Check out their set lunches and happy hour.

MEKONG MERCHANT INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD

23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6478

info@mekongmerchant.com The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Bakery-style Bistro out front. MOGAMBO PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX

LU BU CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN

97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 8371

luburestaurant.com

50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1311

mogambo@saigonnet.vn

The longest running expat bar in town, these days Mogambo is more a restaurant than

Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

caravellehotel.com

One of the top three buffet restaurants in town. Although the selection is small, the meats, fishes and seafoods are all fresh, and everything you eat here is quality. OSAKA RAMEN JAPANESE NOODLES

18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 If you fancy dosing out on ramen and soba noodles, then Osaka Ramen is noodle soup heaven. A typically Japanese aircon environment mixes bar-style seating with booths and private dining. Open late. PACHARAN SPANISH / EUROPEAN

97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924 Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s food menu is traditionally Spanish. PENDOLASCO PAN-ITALIAN

87 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8181; 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 282

pendolasco.vn

Opening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and grilled dishes. Has a second branch in District 2. PIZZA 4P’S EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION

8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838

pizza4ps.com

This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more traditional varieties. PROPAGANDA CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO

21 Han Thuyen, Q1 Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery, Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda Art murals and prints.

REFINERY FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL

The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509

therefinerysaigon.com

A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains. RELISH & SONS GOURMET BURGER BAR

44 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 01207 214294

facebook.com/relishandsons

Some have described them as glamburgers, we describe them as creative burgers done well in a contemporary atmosphere. That is certainly the gloss you’ll find at Relish & Sons, along with funky draught beer options, cool refreshing cocktails and a range of all things burger. Their cheesy fries are to die for. RIVERSIDE CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN

QUAN BUI TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE

8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3602 2241; 17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge, at this popular, high-quality, chicly designed eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery. One of the best Vietnamese restaurants in town. QUAN UT UT US-STYLE BARBECUE

168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4500

facebook.com/quanutut

It’s a no-brainer, right? American-style barbecue in a contemporary Vietnamese, quan nhau-style setting. Of course it is, which is why Quan Ut Ut is constantly packed with grill-obsessed diners going for the burgers, meats off the barbecue and Platinum pale ale served on tap.

Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets. SAFFRON PAN-MEDITERRANEAN

51 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8358 Sporting food from around the Mediterranean rim, this compact and cozy eatery with pots hung from the ceiling is a popular choice with expats and tourists alike. Reservations advised. SAIGON CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET

Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828

sheratonsaigon.com

If you like your buffet selections to be big, then here it is

gargantuan, with every type of option under the sun. A great place to catch up on your seafood addiction or to pig out over a Sunday brunch. SAN FU LOU CANTONESE KITCHEN

Ground Floor, AB Building, 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 9513

sanfulou.com

Open until 3am, this popular, contemporary Cantonese dining hall mixes contemporary with traditional, in a space that takes Chinese dining in Saigon to a new level. And if you like your dim sum, look no further. SCOTT AND BINH’S INTERNATIONAL

15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0948 901465

bizuhotel.com/main/pages/ scottbinhs.php

Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this restaurant boasts a full bar, ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus on the creative use of local ingredients. SEOUL HOUSE KOREAN

33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297

seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr

The longest running Korean restaurant in town, with all the Koreans moving out to the hinterland, the clientele here are mainly Vietnamese. Fortunately the food preparation remains traditional. An excellent place for group dining. SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE

Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 2221

shangpalace.com.vn

Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong, Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300. Good for events.

SKEWERS INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN

9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798

skewers-restaurant.com

Simple, unpretentious Greekinfluenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room. SHRI CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN

23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace, indoor bar and separate dining room with sweeping views over central Saigon make up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought out and romantic venue, with excellent food. SORAE SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE

Level 24, AB Tower, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 0938 687689

soraesushi.com

Set over two floors, this astonishing, no-expensespared Japanese restaurant and lounge brings to Saigon the type of environment and ambience you’d expect of New York, Singapore, Hong Kong and Dubai. With the décor comes a modern take on Japanese fare. A place to see and be seen. TAMAGO PAN-JAPANESE

39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4634

tamagoresto@gmail.com

Located on the main drag in Thao Dien, Tamago has indoor and out door seating, a terrace and private rooms. They have a ladies’ night on Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on Saturday evenings. Have a second restaurant in Mui Ne. TEMPLE CLUB PAN-VIETNAMESE

29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244

Templeclub.com.vn

Once a hotel for Indian dig-

nitaries visiting old Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one of the city’s best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices. THE DECK MODERN ASIAN FUSION

38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6632

thedecksaigon.com

Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list. THE HUNGRY PIG BACON BAR / CAFE

144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 4533

facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe

Think bacon, bacon and more bacon, all set in airy, spacious atmosphere, and you get The Hungry Pig, an eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty through to the bacon Caesar. A popular hangout. TIN NGHIA VEGAN

9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eateries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town, all cooked up without onions, garlic or MSG. VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE INTERNATIONAL

Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698

facebook.com/vespersaigon

Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper is a sophisticated yet down-toearth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and a great spirit selection. Serves creative, Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the

wordvietnam.com | August 2015 Word | 163

THE EMPTY WOK AMERICAN CHICKEN POT PIE

hicken pot pie is a classic American dish — the traditional version is filled with creamy chicken and seasoned vegetables. This savory favourite can trace its roots to the Greeks and Romans who would make pies with several meat fillings. Eventually, the pies evolved into having one primary filling: chicken, beef, pork or turkey. Chicken pot pies can be made up with or without vegetables, surrounded by or only topped with a crust. In this recipe I have given the dish a bit of an Italian touch with a rich creamy white sauce that melts the chicken every time you take a bite. After cooking the chicken, vegetables and base in a saucepan, I pour the mixture into a casserole dish and top it with a puff pastry square. Then I bake it for 10 to 15 minutes and serve it with a fresh side salad. I use frozen pastry dough that can be found at any western grocery store. This recipe serves two to three people.

Ingredients for the filling — 250 grams of chicken fillets

164 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam.com

BY RICCHA ARORA

Photo by Kyle Phanroy

— 1/2 cup of diced carrots — 1/2 cup of bell peppers — 1/2 cup of broccoli florets — 1 medium size onion finely chopped — 1 tablespoon of butter — 1 tablespoon of all-purpose flour — 1/2 cup of fresh whipping cream — 1 cup of water — 1 tablespoon fresh parsley, chopped — Handful of fresh rosemary — 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper — 1 egg, beaten with 1 tablespoon of water to make egg wash — Salt to taste

Method Melt the butter in a deep pan and add the diced chicken fillets. Cook over a medium heat until the meat turns white. Add salt. Next, add diced vegetable onions, bell pepper and broccoli — cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Now add all-purpose flour followed by fresh whipping cream and 1 cup of water. Stir well to mix the flour evenly. Keep the flame on medium and cook for 2 minutes. Add fresh rosemary, parsley and ground black pepper.

Pie Assembly Take the frozen dough pastry and keep it at room temperature for 10 minutes. Grease a large ovenproof bowl. Roll out the puff pastry onto a lightly floured board and using the bowl as a guide, cut the dough into the same shape as the bowl. Make sure it’s about 1 inch bigger so it will stick to the sides. Evenly distribute the filling inside the bowl. Using a pastry brush, brush the sides of the bowl with the egg wash and cover with the puff pastry, making sure to seal the sides against the bowl. Brush the tops with egg wash and sprinkle with a little salt, pepper and rosemary. Make a little incision with a fork or knife so the pie doesn’t puff up and explode. Pre-heat your oven for 10 minutes to 160C. Now place the filled bowls on a baking tray and cook in the preheated oven for about 10 to 15 minutes or until the tops are golden brown. Riccha Arora runs the Facebook page Sassy Kitchen —facebook.com/ arorassassykitchen. You can also check out her website — arorasassykitchen.com

HCMC On The Town

drinks and has a separate dining space.

BANH KHOT CO BA VUNG TAU BANH KHOT

102 Cao Thang, Q3 WRAP & ROLL 62 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971; 226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 5097

wrap-roll.com

1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen, as diners look on. Stylish and spectacular. ZEUS GREEK / KEBAB

BANH MI HONG HOA VIETNAMESE BANH MI

62 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 BANH MI SAU MINH VIETNAMESE BANH MI

170 Vo Van Tan, Q3 BANH MI THANH MAI HOANG VIETNAMESE BANH MI

107 Truong Dinh, Q3 BANH TAM BI TO CHAU BANH TAM

271 Nguyen Trai, Q1 BEEFSTEAK NAM SON VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE

200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917

Namsonsteak.com

BUN CHA HA NOI BUN CHA

26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1 CHI THONG

164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3248 The service is often slow, and the staff are often surprisingly lazy, yet the food here is so good and so unique to this city, that no-one seems to mind. The perfect place to feast out on gyros and all things off a skewer. Cheap, too.

BUN THIT NUONG / BANH HOI

ZOOM CAFÉ

MI QUANG MY SON

AMERICAN / TEX-MEX

169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 3897

vietnamvespaadventures. com/cafe_zoom

This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt.

M M M STREET FOOD BA GHIEN COM TAM

84 Dang Van Ngu, Phu Nhuan

195 Co Giang, Q1

COM GA XOI MO SU SU VIETNAMESE FRIED CHICKEN

55 Tu Xuong, Q3

COM TAM 40A COM TAM

40A Quoc Huong, Q2

MI QUANG

38 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 NAM GIAO BUN BO HUE

189 Bis Bui Vien, Q1 PHO DAU PHO BO

288/M1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 PHO HOA PHO BO & PHO GA

260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7943 PHO LE PHO BO

413-415 Nguyen Trai, Q5

BA NAM

PHO PHU GIA

BO KHO

PHO BO

Alleyway to the left of 162 Tran Nhan Tong, Q10

146E Ly Chinh Thang, Q3 THE LUNCH LADY

BANH CANH HOANG TY BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE

23 Hoang Sa, Q1

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM BANH CUON

11A Cao Thang, Q3

Based north of Mui Ne in Central Vietnam, the foundation provides the children with a home, a family and an education. To help fund this programme, for every copy of our Word you get delivered direct to your door, we will donate VND50,000 to Mai Nha. At VND120,000 per month (minimum of six months), this is a small price to pay to help those in need.

DAILY CHANGING DISHES

70 Vo Van Tan, Q3

BANH CUON HAI NAM

Word has teamed up with the Mai Nha Children Foundation to help 20 orphan children to grow up as a family and prepare for their future.

HAINANESE CHICKEN RICE

67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 7751

To arrange your home delivery, simply email trang@wordvietnam.com For more information on Mai Nha, click on mai-nha.org

wordvietnam.com | August 2015 Word | 165

BRIDALWEAR 3 Thang 2 C1

PAINTINGS Tran Phu D1 Bui Vien D3

CAMERAS Ton That Thiep C4

CAC H

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District 11 2km

Ban h

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Vuon Chuoi Market

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Teacher Training University

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University of Natural Sciences

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STATIONERY Nguyen Dinh Chieu B3

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DISTRICT 5 n Trai Ng u y e

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Binh Tay Market 3km

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WEDDING SERVICES Nguyen Dinh Chieu D1

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166 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam.com

TAM

Than h

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GUITARS Nguyen Thien Thuat D1, D2

Ng u yen

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FLOWERS Le Thanh Ton C4

Miinnh Quye n

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FABRICS Hai Ba Trung A3

KH OI NG HI

Diinnh

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EVERYTHING Ben Thanh Market C4

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Lan Anh Sports & Leisure Club

SHOES Nguyen Dinh Chieu C1, C2 Luu Van Lang C4

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MA N G TH

PHO

COOKING INGREDIENTS Ham Nghi C4, C5

H uy

Saigon Train Station

Miinnh Quye n

Tan Binh 0.5km

SEAFOOD Vinh Khanh D4, D5

Thao

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COMPUTERS Ton That Tung C2, C3

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SAFES Vo Van Tan C3

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PLAQUES Nam Quoc Cang C2, D2

CAR COMPONENTS Tran Quang Khai A3 Ky Con C4, D4

PHU

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YEN VAN T

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LUGGAGE Le Lai C3, C4

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Ngo Van Nam B5 Nguyen Bieu E2 Nguyen Binh Khiem A4, B5 Nguyen Cong Tru C4, C5, D4 Nguyen Cu Trinh D2, D3 Nguyen Dinh Chieu A4, B4, C2, C3, D1 Nguyen Dinh Chinh A1 Nguyen Du B4, C3 Nguyen Gia Thieu B3 Nguyen Hue C4, C5 Nguyen Huu Canh B5 Nguyen Huu Cau A3 Nguyen Huy Tu A4 Nguyen Khac Nhu D3 Nguyen Khoai E3 Nguyen Ngoc Phuong A5 Nguyen Phi Khanh A3 Nguyen Sieu B5, C4, C5 Nguyen Son Ha C2 Nguyen Tat Thanh D5 Nguyen Thai Binh C4, D4 Nguyen Thai Hoc C3, D3 Nguyen Thi Dieu C2, C3 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai A5, B3, B4, C2, C3, D2 Nguyen Thien Thuat C1 Nguyen Thong B1, B2 Nguyen Thuong Hien C2 Nguyen Trai C3, D2, E1 Nguyen Trung Truc C4 Nguyen Truong To D5 Nguyen Van Cu D2, E2 Nguyen Van Lac A5 Nguyen Van Mai A2 Nguyen Van Nguyen A2 Nguyen Van Thu A4, B3, B4 Nguyen Van Troi A1 Pasteur B3, B4 Pasteur C4 Pham Hong Thai C3 Pham Ngoc Thach B3 Pham Ngu Lao C3, D3 Pham Viet Chanh D2

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HCMC Map

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VinaExpress - The Hydrofoil Service

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Opera House

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Saigon Bus Station

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Central Post Office

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HTV Television

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War Remnants Museum

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District 7 & Nha Be Kha nh

DISTRICT 4 Ton D an

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Saigon South 4km

wordvietnam.com | August 2015 Word | 167

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Gia Dinh Hospital 1.5km

Tiêng Viêt

Cùng Học với Rockit

Học tiếng Anh, nhưng không phải theo cách mà bạn đã biết

Hình ảnh: Vũ Bảo Khánh

hương pháp học trong lớp đã quá lỗi thời. Vì vậy, Đào Thu Hiền, người sáng lập đồng thời là CEO của Rockit Online, cho rằng phương pháp khởi động sẽ là một thách thức mới cho mô hình lớp học truyền thống. Hiền lớn lên ở Hà Nội nhưng theo đuổi đại học tại Hoa Kỳ. Giờ đây trở lại Việt Nam, cô đem đến sự hướng dẫn và nền giáo dục mà cô rất biết ơn đã nhận được lúc còn đi học. Sau khi khởi chạy thành công Golden Path Academics, một công ty giáo dục tư vấn và cung cấp kỹ năng học tập cho sinh viên Việt Nam chuẩn bị học tập ở nước ngoài, Hiền chuyển sự quan tâm của mình vào Internet với sự ra mắt của Rockit Online vào năm 2013. Năm 2014, Rockit giành được 500,000 USD (10,9 tỷ đồng) tài trợ từ các nhà đầu tư ở Thung Lũng Silicon. Rockit cung cấp các lớp học nhỏ thông qua một cổng thông tin trực tuyến. Công ty phấn đấu thực hiện một nền giáo dục bổ trợ dễ tiếp cận, giá cả phải chăng và thuận tiện. Chi phí ít hơn so với các trung tâm tiếng Anh cạnh tranh khách, nhưng với chất lượng tương đương. Hiền ví lớp học truyền thống Việt Nam như một cái hộp kín. Việc tuân thủ phương pháp giảng dạy truyền thống, giáo viên và sách giáo khoa làm cho việc học hành trở nên rất khó tiếp nhận. "Giáo dục Việt đã không mở cửa đón nhận những ý tưởng mới hoặc người chơi mới. Ai sẽ bước vào được nếu nó không tự mở ra trước?", cô nói.

168 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam.com

Con Đường Phát Triển

Với Rockit, Hiền đang thay đổi hệ thống giáo dục của Việt Nam thông qua công nghệ. "Công nghệ giáo dục giúp cho các nhà giáo dục tiếp cận sinh viên vì họ không còn cần một lớp học, trường học hoặc đại học," cô giải thích. Phản bác lại những quan ngại về sự gia tăng của chứng 'nghiện màn hình', Hiền cho rằng tất cả mô hình Rockit là để học tập tích cực. Khi bạn dạy hoặc học thông qua Internet, "bạn không nhìn vào máy tính, mà nhìn vào giáo viên và các bạn cùng lớp. Thật khó để bỏ qua sự tương tác đó", cô nói. Các lớp học được giới hạn ở mức năm sinh viên, sinh viên và giáo viên sẽ giao tiếp thông qua video, hội thoại và chat. Khóa học video nằm trong danh mục các khóa học của Rockit đang ngày càng tăng, có giá thấp hơn. Các lớp học nhỏ cho phép Rockit nhấn mạnh kỷ luật trong việc học ngôn ngữ. Đội ngũ Rockit sẽ gọi cho sinh viên thông báo trước mỗi lớp học và số buổi học họ đã không tham gia, điều này rất khó quản lý đối với các lớp học trong lớp thông thường. "Tôi muốn giúp người học kiên trì vào một cái gì đó họ đã bắt đầu", Hiền nói. Đội ngũ giáo viên của Rockit từ khắp nơi trên thế giới, mặc dù đội ngũ giáo viên Việt Nam đã từng học (hoặc đang học) ở nước ngoài chiếm đa số, nhưng họ có một sự hiểu biết vững chắc về cách sinh viên Việt Nam học tập. Khi

tuyển dụng, Rockit nhấn mạnh chất lượng và sự bám sát của giáo viên với sinh viên; sinh viên đủ khả năng có thể sẽ được tuyển dụng sau các khóa học trực tuyến.

Kỹ Năng Mềm

Trong khi Rockit chủ yếu cung cấp các khóa học tiếng Anh, hiện nay hơn bao giờ hết, nhu cầu cho sự phát triển chuyên nghiệp đang trên đà tăng. Theo Hiền, hệ thống giáo dục đại học của Việt Nam yếu nhất trong khu vực, với nguồn tài nguyên bị tổn hại và phương pháp lỗi thời. "Sự sẵn sàng trong công việc đang thiếu. Nhiều sinh viên tốt nghiệp đại học nhưng thậm chí không biết làm thế nào để viết một CV." - cô nói. Rockit hy vọng có thể bổ trợ giáo dục đại học Việt Nam và giúp sinh viên và các chuyên gia trẻ chuẩn bị vững chắc tham gia lực lượng lao động toàn cầu một cách nhanh chóng. Nhóm hiện đang gây quỹ cho sự kiện sắp tới này. "Tầm nhìn của tôi cho phát triển lâu dài sẽ là một chương trình giáo dục phục vụ người dân ở nhiều khía cạnh cho sự nghiệp và cuộc sống của họ," Hiền giải thích. Giới trẻ đang ngày càng tránh các lịch học truyền thống, mong muốn sự linh hoạt và tiện lợi. Tất cả điều này làm cho sự thay đổi từ các lớp học truyền thống đến máy tính là không thể tránh khỏi, đặc biệt là cho giáo dục bổ trợ. Ở Việt Nam, Rockit là người mở đường. — Noey Neumark

h n ì B a ò H ì V ạy

y gia chạ m a h t ời gàn ngư n g n à H àn ông. đ i ờ ư g n ủa một c n ệ y u Câu ch

HÌNH ẢNH ĐƯỢC CUNG CẤP BỞI PULSE ACTIVE

ại dặm 20, Dennis Zaborac buông mình vào một chiếc ghế trống tại một quán cà phê ngoài trời bận rộn. Cháy nắng, phồng rộp, mệt mỏi và mất nước, ông thấy bao quanh mình là một vài người địa phương trẻ tuổi nào đó, chào đón ông với các loại bia. Khi ông đến Đà Nẵng lần đầu tiên trong 42 năm để tham gia Marathon Quốc Tế Đà Nẵng, ông đã muốn giữ lại những thông tin như mình là người Mỹ và rằng ông đã chiến đấu ở đây. Nhưng những người trẻ này đã rất tò mò. Và Zaborac là người thật thà. Sau một năm đóng quân tại Cửa Đại gần Hội An, Zaborac được gửi về nhà đột ngột sau khi chiến tranh kết thúc, ông cảm thấy như mình đã để lại một số việc chưa hoàn thành ở Việt Nam. Bốn thập kỷ sau, ông trở lại Đà Nẵng để chạy marathon và để giải quyết các việc chưa hoàn thành từ cuộc hành trình trước mà ông đã bỏ lại ở đất nước bị chiến tranh tàn phá này. Ngồi tại quán cafe với bia trên tay, một người đàn ông địa phương đã hỏi Zaborac hai câu hỏi để bắt chuyện. "Ông từ đâu tới?" và, "Đây là lần đầu tiên ông tới Việt Nam?" Ông ít khi chia sẻ những trải nghiệm trước kia về đất nước này, ông cảm thấy không thoải mái. Họ cố gắng trấn an ông rằng họ không oán hận. Zaborac cuối cùng nhìn lên và nhìn vào mắt một người trong số họ, tất cả cái ông nhìn thấy là lòng tốt và sự chân thành. Trong khoảnh khắc đó, sự gắn kết hai nước kéo dài trong bốn thập kỷ đã được tạo ra. Zaborac dành 20 phút tiếp theo để trò chuyện với những người bạn mới của mình, và cuối cùng

khi ông đứng dậy để chạy sáu dặm cuối cùng, ông cảm thấy mình đã sẵn sàng và tươi trẻ lại. Khi ông nhìn về phía cuối đường đua, ông không còn cảm thấy như mình đang bước vào lãnh thổ của đối phương. Thay vào đó, ông cảm nhận một tình bạn thân thiết duy nhất tồn tại khi thấy bạn cùng chạy cuối cùng cũng sống sót qua 26,2 dặm trong cái nóng ẩm của Việt Nam. Trước sự ngạc nhiên của mình, bạn bè mới của Zaborac từ chỗ nghỉ ở dặm 20 đã cổ vũ nhiệt tình khi ông về tới đích. 42 năm sau khi đột ngột ra đi, Zaborac tìm thấy sự viên mãn. Ông tìm thấy sự chấp nhận. Ông thấy nhẹ nhõm. Nhưng quan trọng nhất, vào lúc nghỉ ngắn uống bia của ông tại dặm 20, cuối cùng ông cũng đã hiểu điều gì đó về người Việt, nhiều hơn so với khoảng thời gian ông đã trải qua chiến đấu với họ.

Không Chỉ Là Cuộc Marathon

Năm nay, chủ đề của Marathon Quốc Tế Đà Nẵng là Run for Peace (Tạm dịch là Chạy vì Hòa Bình). Kỷ niệm 40 năm hòa bình ở Việt Nam, các nhà tổ chức dự đoán sẽ có 5,000 vận động viên nghiệp dư và 1,500 vận động viên marathon chuyên nghiệp tham gia. Năm ngoái, có 3,500 người chạy và 400 vận động viên chuyên nghiệp tham gia từ 25 quốc gia và vùng lãnh thổ khác nhau. Marathon Quốc Tế Đà Nẵng là sự kiện đầu tiên được IAAF-AIMS (Hiệp Hội Quốc Tế của Liên Đoàn Điền Kinh và Hiệp hội Marathon Quốc Tế và Đua Đường Dài) chứng nhận tại Việt Nam. — Diana Truong

Thông Tin NGÀY: 30/08/2015 THỜI GIAN: 04:00 đến 11:00 CẤP ĐỘ: Người chạy có thể đăng ký cho ba loại cấp độ — marathon toàn phần, nửa chặng và 5km chạy vui LỆ PHÍ: Từ 210,000 đồng đến 2,300,000 đồng HOTLINE: 0919 327323 EMAIL: info@pulse.vn WEBSITE: rundanang.com wordvietnam.com | August 2015 Word | 169

Tiêng Viêt

Tổ Chức Heart Reach Australia Một phần tư thế kỷ hỗ trợ người Việt Nam

hris O'Dempsey đã làm điều đó xảy ra cho một số người nghèo nhất ở Việt Nam trong 25 năm qua. Trong một chuyến đi với các nhà thờ Thiên Chúa giáo vào năm 1990, ông đã bị choáng ngợp bởi hoàn cảnh của những người không được hưởng những điều kiện y tế thích hợp, giáo dục đầy đủ hoặc việc làm. Ông đến Việt Nam ba lần một năm, thậm chí lập gia đình ở đây. Ông nhớ lại chuyến thăm đầu tiên của ông tới bệnh viện mắt Điện Biên Phủ tại Thành Phố Hồ Chí Minh. Ở đó, ông thấy những đứa trẻ tầm sáu tháng tuổi mắc các bệnh về mắt mà có thể tránh được như bệnh tăng nhãn áp và đục thủy tinh thể. Khi trở về Úc, ông liên lạc với Fred Hollows, một bác sĩ phẫu thuật mắt nổi tiếng đã từng được chính phủ Úc khen thưởng. Fred nói ông hãy liên lạc với người đứng đầu của các bệnh viện lớn ở quê nhà, và ông đã làm. Chris ngay lập tức hình thành Project Vietnam (Dự Án Việt Nam), tiền thân của Heart Reach Australia bây giờ. Ban đầu chỉ tập trung vào việc cung cấp các trang thiết bị y tế, Chris bắt đầu gửi các trang

170 | Word August 2015 | wordvietnam.com

thiết bị y tế cho các bệnh viện địa phương. Đó là một vấn đề và không phải là điều dễ làm. Theo đó, Heart Reach đã chuyển hướng quan tâm sang vấn đề khác. Trong số rất nhiều hoạt động, họ giờ đây tài trợ cho các bác sĩ địa phương được đến Úc đào tạo, trả tiền đào tạo cho họ, trước khi gửi họ trở về đóng góp cho quê nhà. Khi ông kể về một trong những tác động đầu tiên khiến ông làm công việc này, ông mất một ít phút để chuẩn bị. Hãy tưởng tượng một người phụ nữ 20 tuổi bị xe tải đâm — chiếc xe bỏ đi và để mặc lại người phụ nữ ấy. Nhờ một trong tám máy lọc máu được hiến tặng — cái máy đầu tiên đã tới Sài Gòn chỉ hai tuần trước vụ tai nạn — mà cô ấy cò thể hoàn toàn bình phục. Thoát chết, cô ấy viết hai từ duy nhất bằng tiếng Anh mà cô ấy biết "Cám ơn" gửi cho ông, và điều đó vẫn ấn tượng cho Chris tới ngày hôm nay.

Mối Quan Hệ Lâu Dài

Khi chúng tôi gặp nhau tại khách sạn New World

Sài Gòn — khách sạn đã tài trợ Heart Reach kể từ năm 2012 — ông dắt Mai theo, một thiếu nữ 18 tuổi từ Đồng Bằng Sông Cửu Long. Cô là một trong hàng trăm người được hưởng tài trợ của Heart Reach, nơi họ khuyến khích mọi người giúp đỡ một đứa trẻ nào đó. Nhờ đó, Mai đã được có cơ hội tiếp cận với giấc mơ học tập và việc làm của mình. Ngày mai, cô ấy sẽ đến RMIT với hy vọng giành được một suất học bổng cần thiết. Nhiệm vụ tiếp theo của Heart Reach là một thuyền cứu thương cho các khu vực Bến Tre — quê hương của Mai. Nếu không có vận tải y tế khẩn cấp đường sông và các bộ y tế sơ cứu trong khu vực của sông Cửu Long, sẽ có nhiều người chết trước khi kịp đến bệnh viện. Một chiếc thuyền cứu thương sẽ thay đổi điều đó, Chris cho hay, ông đã hứa sẽ có nó trước 01/12 năm nay. Đó là một lời hứa mà ông không có ý định phá vỡ. Để biết thêm công việc của họ trong 25 năm qua và nỗ lực hỗ trợ gây quỹ hiện nay của Heart Reach, hãy vào heartreachaustralia.com

MiNombreEsDolores! Cộng Cà Phê, Tây Hồ Thứ Bảy 08/08 Nhạc sỹ Chi-lê Matias Hidalgo với nghệ danh là MiNombreEsDolores! sẽ biểu diễn tại Cộng Cà Phê ở Hồ Tây vào thứ Bảy ngày 08/08. Tham gia cùng với đêm nhạc quen thuộc của nhạc sỹ kiêm diễn viên Việt Nam, Vissay, Hidalgo sẽ trình diễn các nhạc phẩm trong album thứ hai của mình có tên gọi là Part of the Asi Es. Kết hợp giữa cây đàn guitar cổ điển với hiệu ứng loop, đêm diễn sẽ được thể hiện bằng giọng hát pha trộn hai ngôn ngữ mà anh gọi là tiếng Anh của người Tây Ban Nha. Đêm diễn sẽ bắt đầu từ 21:00, Cộng Cà Phê nằm ở số 100 Xuân Diệu, Tây Hồ. Vào cửa miễn phí. Để biết thêm chi tiết về MiNombreEsDolores!, xin ghé mned.bandcamp.com

Zedd: Chuyến Lưu Diễn True Colors

8m2

Viện Goethe Hà Nội, Ba Đình Từ thứ Năm 13/08 Viện Goethe Hà Nội sẽ tổ chức cuộc triển lãm ảnh sắp đặt mang tên 8m2 từ 13/08 do nghệ sỹ danh tiếng Nguyễn Thế Sơn. Thể hiện môi trường sống của người lao động nhập cư, tiêu đề của cuộc triển lãm là không gian sống tối thiểu ở Việt Nam trong thời kỳ nền kinh tế trước khi Đổi Mới. Người nghệ sỹ này cho hay: "Sau nửa thế kỷ vật lộn, nhiều người dân vẫn phải trăn trở trong 8m2 đó, nhưng nó không phải là 8m2 cho chỉ một người, đôi lúc là cho đến tám người." Thông qua cuộc triển lãm ảnh

sắp đặt, Sơn thể hiện những vấn đề của từng cá nhân trong nền công nghiệp hóa ở Việt Nam. Những người đến thành phố kiếm sống, thường xuyên phải sống trong điều kiện khắc nghiệt như thế trong nhiều năm. Dự án này ghi lại các góc nhỏ của môi trường sống và giúp người lao động có một tiếng nói bằng cách kết hợp đồ đạc cá nhân của họ vào các tác phẩm nghệ thuật của mình. Triển lãm sẽ khai mạc tại viện Goethe, 56-58 Nguyễn Thái Học, Ba Đình lúc 18:00 ngày thứ Năm Tháng 13/08. Sau đó nó sẽ tiếp tục đón khách tham quan mỗi ngày từ 09:00 - 19:00, cho tới 30/08.

Sân Golf Rạch Chiếc, Q2 Thứ Sáu 07/08 Zedd là một Dj kiêm nhà sản xuất nhạc, là nghệ sỹ có sản phẩm âm nhạc được bán ra đạt đĩa bạch kim, cùng là người đoạt giải Grammy cho thu âm nhạc dance xuất sắc nhất. Và anh sắp đến thành phố. Biểu diễn tại địa điểm có một không hai của một sân golf, lần biểu diễn này của Zedd nằm trong một phần của chuyến lưu diễn True Colors ở Châu Á, tiếp theo anh sẽ đến Philippines, Thái Lan và Nhật Bản. Với bản pop electro trance thiên tài Beautiful Now, chúng tôi tự tin sự kiện này sẽ thu hút đông người tham dự. Vé tiêu chuẩn cho đêm diễn True Colors là 550,000 đồng, vé khu vực VIP sẽ bao gồm chi phí đảm bảo khác. Để biết thêm thông tin, xin vào zeddhcmc.com

wordvietnam.com | August 2015 Word | 171

The Final Say THE FINAL SAY

NATIONAL

The Inside Story of the Guerrilla War Chapter 11: In the Western Highlands For the next five issues, Word is presenting excerpts from Wilfred Burchett’s seminal account of the American War. A close friend of Ho Chi Minh, Burchett was the only westerner to be embedded with the Viet Cong frontlines in the early 1960s. This work was written in 1964 Struggle Around Buon Me Thuot Buon Me Thuot is a strategic centre in Dak Lak, a key area of the Tay Nguyen (Western Highlands) or Hauts Plateaux, as the French call the area. A vast area with plateaux suitable for airfields, Buon Me Thuot is near enough to the borders of Cambodia and Laos to make it of vital importance, a fact that U.S. military men in Saigon had not overlooked. After Saigon, Buon Me Thuot is the second most important military centre. It is also has the biggest concentration of ethnic minorities in southern Vietnam — mainly the Rhade, Jarai and M’Nong. Tran Dinh Minh was Vietnamese but had lived in the Tay Nguyen for 14 years, since the age of 14, having volunteered for service there because he was too young and small to bear arms in the anti-French war, though he had served as a ‘liaison agent’ from the age of 13. He had adopted the tribes’ people’s customs, their food, language and dress, having practiced the three ‘withs’ policy of “work with, live with, eat with,” as advocated by President Ho Chi Minh. He knew the general area, knew the people and was trusted by them. He was a child of the revolution. His whole family was wiped out in Quang Nam in the early stages of the anti-French war. After volunteering for work in Dak Lak, he learnt five of the tribal languages and was adopted as a ‘son’ by several of the tribes. His fiancée was arrested and killed by the Diemists; several of the tribes, when I met him, were competing to find him a suitable mate. He was the ideal man for the task in hand — but it was a tall order to be sent alone, with one pistol, to encircle Buon Me Thuot with NFL bases. That was in December 1960, in the same month the

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National Front was formed. B. M. Thuot, as the name is usually written on maps, was the headquarters base for the 4th Diemist army corps, a division plus one regiment. Within a few days, Tran Dinh Minh had recruited some old friends, three Vietnamese and four tribesmen, each of whom had a sheath knife. “Our main job,” he told me, “was to establish ourselves in the hearts of the people. That is the only way we recognise of establishing a base. But it was difficult to do anything at all without arms. One day, we ambushed a Diemist lorry; but there were no arms, only uniforms. We carried off as many as we could. At first I was very disappointed, then I had an idea. B. M. Thuot was encircled by ‘agricultural settlements’ to which Vietnamese ‘suspects’ from the plains had been exiled to carve out rubber and coffee plantations for the Diem family. Each of these was controlled by a military post set up within the settlement itself. Why not try and use the Diemist uniforms to infiltrate and capture the arms from a post?” Just after dusk one evening, clad in Diemist officer’s uniforms, they stopped a truck that had just emerged from one of the ‘agricultural settlements’ and was heading towards B. M. Thuot. The driver proved to be friendly, told them the exact layout of the post and agreed to drive them back in. Since they were in Diemist uniform, the sentry at the gate let them through. “We drove straight to the captain’s quarters,” Tran Dinh Minh related, “and found him sitting on a bed, playing a guitar, some of his soldiers dancing western style to the music. Their guns were piled up in a corner and we grabbed them and the captain simultaneously. We explained that

we were from the NFL, ordered the captain to assemble his men, get them to lay down their arms immediately and then listen to a statement on Front policy. Otherwise he would be killed on the spot. The rest of the platoon came out of their barracks, piled up their arms and assembled in the garrison square. Our men seized the arms and took up appropriate positions, while I talked to them. Long before I had finished, the soldiers were with us.” The garrison troops were peasant conscripts, like most of the Diemist troops. All 29 joined up and offered to help organise a meeting of the settlement inmates, although there was another military post only about a mile away. Altogether 2,700 people gathered. “They could hardly believe their eyes and ears when they saw and heard us,” Minh told me. “People actually wept for joy when we explained who we were. Over 400 young men begged to be taken into our ranks, but as we only had the 30 weapons just captured and had no real base or supply system, I accepted only 75 of the toughest and most decided. I promoted my seven raw recruits to squad leaders on the spot and put the new men under them. We had driven into the settlement, a force of eight with one pistol and seven knives. We moved out with 112 men, a submachine gun and 28 rifles.” Around B. M. Thuot, forest and plantations alternate in checkerboard fashion. At the time Minh started operating, there were 11 French plantations around the city with 5,000 Vietnamese workers and six ‘agricultural settlements’ with 25,000 Vietnamese from the plains. Minh succeeded in setting up bases in all of them. Minh and the ‘armed propaganda teams’ he formed soon developed united action between Vietnamese and tribes’ people against a common oppressor. And it was no more difficult to organise the plantation workers than it was the exiles and tribes’ people; Minh being far too good a tactician, however, to use his control over the rubber workers to the detriment of the French plantation owners and managers. It was he, and not Saigon, who on behalf of the NFL, collected their taxes with the tacit understanding that if the French behaved correctly, there would be no labour troubles. By the end of 1961, Diemist control had been

Wildred Burchett and a group of people in a Rhade village

“I wondered whether the mentality of the Saigon regime could ever win [the tribes’ people’s] confidence. I believe it is impossible, and that goes for the U.S. advisers, too. They would have to recast their thinking, adopt other political and social yardsticks” wordvietnam.com | August 2015 Word | 173

removed from the agricultural settlements and the military posts were eliminated. The Americans by this time were very concerned with the situation; they still had big plans for B. M. Thuot. In documents captured by the guerillas there were hints that it should be developed as a last-ditch bastion in the event of a threat to Saigon. Underground arms depots and a complex of installations and fortifications had been built. The new plan was to concentrate as many of the tribal people as they could in ‘strategic hamlets’, another wall to take the ‘first shock’ of Viet Cong attacks, as it was put in the captured documents. According to the plan, the agricultural settlements were to be brought under control again and the inmates as well as the tribes’ people in the strategic hamlets would be armed to defend themselves against the Viet Cong. These were the new instructions that came with direct U.S. intervention at the end of 1961.

‘New’ Americans Buon Ea Nao, a village less than 3km from B. M. Thuot, was selected as the main camp for concentrating the minorities and instructing them in the use of U.S. weapons. Every village was supposed to send its elders for political indoctrination and ten ablebodied men for military training to protect themselves against ‘wild beasts’. Ybih Aleo, the most authoritative leader of the 37 minority groups in the Tay Nguyen and himself from B. M. Thuot District, a grizzled and grey French-trained military veteran and vice president of the NFL, told me that the Diemists avoided saying they were to be armed against the Liberation Front or Viet

Cong because they knew any derogatory remarks would have alienated the tribes’ people. “It was a clever line,” Ybih AIeo said. “It took into account the fact that the Diemist troops were completely discredited because of their atrocities against the people.” I heard a more detailed account from an elder of one of the villages. “This American spoke Rhade and called himself Eay (Father) Teo,” recounted the elder. “He said he was a ‘new’ American and that the ‘new’ Americans were against the ‘old’ Americans who helped the Diemists hurt our people. ‘We will help you become really independent,’ he said. ‘But you must not help either the Diemists or the Viet Cong. We will give you everything you need and you will come into new homes we will help build. Cloth, rice, salt, bicycles, and arms to defend yourselves against any evildoer — we will give you all these.’ “We were confused. We knew the Americans help Diem; now others come and say they oppose him. This ‘new’ American looked just like the ‘old’ ones. He seemed to be a military man but was dressed like a French priest. But he said he was not a priest. ‘I am sent by Christ to help you, but mine is the ‘new’ religion of the ‘new Americans.’ “‘You see’, said this Eay Teo, “it is this way. The ‘old’ Americans and the Diemists behave like cats. The Viet Cong is the mouse. If the mouse smuggles itself into your paddy, the cats come to kill the mouse. But in doing this they also harm your paddy. But if you block the mouse coming into your paddy, you can block the cat also; no harm will be done by either cat or mouse. We will give you weapons to deal with both.”

Wilfred Burchett with the Mnong minority

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“Our people talked this over but we were all suspicious. We did not want to be concentrated; we did not want their weapons. So we said, no concentration and no weapons. We have always defended ourselves in the old way. Eay Teo was very angry. ‘If you refuse to take arms and the ‘old’ Americans and Diemists come to kill you, it is your own fault,’ he said. The village refused both the concentration and the weapons. In a few days more than a thousand troops came to their area. Five villages were burnt and 20 people, mainly children and old people, were killed. “Our tribes’ people were ordered to go to B. M. Thuot again and to be ready to accept concentration,” he continued. “Over a thousand of us assembled and our hearts were heavy. Diemist troops surrounded us with their arms pointed at our backs. Eay Teo was there, the governor of the province and the chiefs of all the districts. “‘Either you agree to concentrate immediately or the troops will be sent against all your villages tomorrow,’ said Eay Teo. “We were all sad. Everyone looked at the ground for there seemed no hope. But then the old man, I Bru of Buon Dju village, climbed onto the platform of a hut and started to speak. He was old, nearly 70, but everyone knew him: ‘We tribes’ people,’ he said, ‘always lived with our forests and brooks and trees. Now you want to lock us up, away from our trees and forests. In that case we will slowly die. Now you have your troops and guns around us. Better pull the triggers now so we die all together.’ The district chief strode up to

“‘[Buon Me Thuot] is a town of fear and terror,’ he said. ‘The authorities are terrified because they know the NFL have their armed forces all around the town and bases inside as well; the people are terrorized because the place is crawling with police and agents who are empowered to arrest or kill any ‘Viet Cong’ suspect on the spot. Once a person is arrested, there is never any further news’”

Nguyen Han Chung, one of many young Vietnamese who settled in Tay Nguyen in the mid 1940s

him: ‘If you disagree with the government, the Americans, you old fool, you will all be killed. And if you continue to speak like that you will be killed first, now.’ “‘If you are killed,’ shouted old man I Bru, ‘you lose your villa, your plantation, your fine car, your beautiful women. If I am killed, I lose this only,’ and he snatched off his loin cloth, threw it in the face of the district chief and stood there naked, his chest thrust out to receive the bullets. There was tremendous excitement. Everyone rushed forward to save the old man, shouting, ‘No concentration! No concentration!’ Officials were swept off their feet and the soldiers made their guns ready. Then Eay Teo spoke up again, trying to smile but his lips were twisted. ‘Why all the noise? Why all the excitement?’ he said. ‘We invited you to hear your opinions. Now you may go home.’” That night, troops came from a nearby post, dragged the old man off and killed him. Next day people from 20 villages met to honour the old man. The tribes’ people took a pledge that they would carry on the fight as the old man had done and it was agreed that only when there was no more forest and the brooks had dried up would the Rhade people allow themselves to be concentrated. Despite this, some of the villages near B. M. Thuot were soon fenced around and turned into strategic hamlets. “Though they could fence in our villages, they could not fence in our hearts,” the elder concluded. “They belong to the revolution.”

Life on the Reservation The incident with I Bru took place at the end of 1961 and by February 1962 a partial economic blockade was in place. The first step was the stopping of salt supplies. Local officials ordered the tribes’ people to halt rice-growing and cultivate jute instead — the Americans could supply rice more cheaply. About this time, according to Ybih Aleo, the Diemists started planting ‘Gibbs’ and ‘fountain pen’ bombs in the minority villages, apparently as a reprisal for the traps with which the tribes’ people were defending their homes and cultivation patches. The first was a tiny flat pressure mine, about the size and shape of Gibbs’ tooth powder tins. The second were shaped like Parker fountain pens. Raiding parties, which found hamlets empty when they arrived, would conceal Gibbs bombs everywhere, under a bed or table or a cooking pot or the bamboo strips that served as a floor in the tribes’ people’s huts. The fountain pen bombs were strewn around in the grass and a child picking one up would have his or her hands blown off. “After an enemy raid and the people returned to their homes, there were explosions, cries and groans until late at night,” Ybih Aleo said. From that period, February to March 1962, it was also forbidden to beat gongs or drums, because the Diemists suspected these were signals to the Viet Cong. Life for the tribes’ people gradually took on the pattern of that of the Red Indians in

the reservations the Americans devised for those that survived the wholesale massacres of the 19th century. Normally the tribes’ people leave the village in time to get in a full day’s work at their fields between sunrise and sunset. The new regime was imposed to prevent contacts with the Viet Cong in the forest. There was no place to keep cattle within the barbed wire perimeter, so these were abandoned to the tigers. Intervillage visits to celebrate each others’ feasts, the most popular form of social intercourse among the tribes’ people, were banned. Even though the men only wore loincloths and the

women only ankle-length skirts, they were submitted to the indignity of being searched as they left and entered the stockades. Hunting was finished; what could you hope to hunt within a kilometer of the village? After a major effort by the Diemist regime in 1962, the area immediately surrounding B. M. Thuot — including the agricultural settlements — was brought back under Saigon’s nominal control, but it was obvious from all I could see and hear, that the tinderbox situation was the real one. By the end of 1963, the Diemists had pulled back to an approximate radius of

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six miles from B. M. Thuot, and the city itself had been converted into a sort of medieval fortress, surrounded by a series of three, nine-foot high palisades, 20 yards between the outer and second wall, ten yards between the second and third. Inside, the town was divided up into sub-sections, each of which was also walled off. Between the palisades were moats filled with spiked obstacles. Even individual houses were surrounded by spike-filled ditches with a plank leading to the entrance that had to be taken up at night. The main victims were the people themselves, their children, dogs and pigs. The spikes had to be uncovered after sunset and could only be covered again when the gongs sounded at 6am. At least, this was part of a detailed account given me of life in B. M. Thuot by a journalist who smuggled himself out of the city especially to contact me. “It is a town of fear and terror,” he said. “The authorities are terrified because they know the NFL have their armed forces all around the town and bases inside as well, despite all the precautions; the people are terrorized because the place is crawling with police and agents who are empowered to arrest or kill any ‘Viet Cong’ suspect on the spot. Once a person is arrested, there is never any further news.”

The Jarai Revolt The great centres of the tribe people of the Western Highlands are, in addition to B. M. Thuot, Pleiku in Gia Lai and Kontum. As far as I could find out, the first act of rebellion in the Tay Nguyen took place in November 1960, among the Jarai in Gia Lai. I heard about it from Rachem H’Ban, a Jarai girl who was 17 years old at the time of the action. She is slight and rather sickly-looking, with a round, olive-skinned face and large holes in her ears from which ornaments had been removed. “The trouble started when the Diemists came to install a new chief of canton in our hamlet,” she said. “They wanted to use our village as the centre for a ‘strategic hamlet’. We objected to this. The Diemists then started a terror campaign not only against us but all the Jarai in our district. First they came and took away four of our young men. One they killed, a second they kept in prison, the other two they released. When they came back we hardly recognised them; they had been badly tortured. We all met in the roong [community meeting hall] that night to talk things over. Life was becoming impossible. From other villages came news of our tribes’ people being killed, women raped, houses burnt, pigs and buffalo stolen. We decided that to live, we must fight back.” Two days later, a unit of 11 Diemist troops came very late at night. They forbade anyone to leave the village; they went into every house, collecting knives and crossbows, and then ordered all the young men to present themselves. When they came out, eight were arrested and tied up. The people fought back for hours; the whole hamlet had turned out and formed a circle around the troops.

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The people had no weapons. The unit chief, a big brute of a man, fired into the leg of one of the captured young men and he fell, blood trickling down his leg. At the sight of blood everyone was furious. Rachem called out instructions in Jarai and the women, who had armed themselves with pieces of firewood from under the huts, jumped at the soldiers. Rachem and two others went for the unit chief, with the first blow knocking his automatic out of his hands, and then they strangled him. Five others had already been clubbed to death, while the rest fled. The tribes’ people now had five carbines, a light machine gun, a pistol and lots of cartridges. By midday the whole hamlet had fled into the jungle. They took everything they could carry, but had to leave the cattle. Soon afterwards an enemy force of about 200 came and burnt down the village, killing all the buffalo and cattle. Within ten days the Jarai had built a new village. In the new village, first thoughts were obviously for protection. Like the Kor and Hre people nearly 18 months previously in Quang Ngai, they had moved back into a fairly inaccessible area, but the Diemists would soon learn where. The young men set up a self-defense corps, armed with crossbows, and spent most of their time preparing defenses; digging ditches for spikes and preparing all sorts of other traps along the approaches to the village. The older people were responsible for production. Although the village only comprised 45 houses with a total population of about 800, the Diemists were never able to subdue it. But the main thing was that, following this example, there was a general uprising of the Jarai people in Le Thanh and neighboring districts. It was another illustration of the fact that when repression in any area reached a certain degree of intensity, it only needed a spark to touch off a raging fire.

Ethnic Group Policy There were many things to learn and know about the customs and mores of the tribes’ people and I wondered whether the mentality of the Saigon regime could ever win their confidence; whether they were capable of such detailed, understanding studies as the Vietnamese liberation cadres had made. I believe it is impossible, and that goes for the U.S. advisers, too. They would have to recast their thinking, adopt other political and social yardsticks. The Americans relied on winning over a few chiefs with baubles of material goods or offers of power. But the tribes’ people are sensitive, with a sound instinct for what is bogus and what is real. It was only after years of living and working together that they started opening their hearts even to those Vietnamese they trusted most. It was a tremendous advantage for the NFL that Ho Chi Minh had asked for volunteers in 1945-46 among young people of the calibre of Tran Dinh Minh, Nguyen Han Chung and others I met, to go to the Tay Nguyen area prepared to spend the rest

of their lives there. Not only had they sunk their roots deep down into the minds and hearts of the tribes’ people, but they had compiled registers of all clan names and inter-clan relationships. Later, these were of vital importance in extending NFL influence in the Tay Nguyen. A new era in relations between Vietnamese proper and the minority peoples started during the anti-French resistance war because for the first time the tribes’ people met outsiders who treated them as equals, under the policy laid down by the Viet Minh. They had always been treated as ‘savages’ before and indeed the only term I heard applied to them by Westerners was moi which I took to be a common term for all the tribes. Later I discovered it was Vietnamese for savage. “In general, we still do not interfere in customs,” I was told by Nguyen Han Chung, a Vietnamese who had spent his adult life among the tribes’ people. “But the minorities are influenced by the way we live. They ask many searching questions. Gradually many of the more damaging customs are dying out. “Our slogan for them is ‘anti-puppet, anti-imperialist’ and in these they support us with all their hearts. If we have been accepted as brothers, this is because those of us who have lived amongst them for years have tried to grasp and understand their customs and never, never to violate them. “The only thing is that, as occasion offers, we try and show them why they are unhappy, why their life is miserable. At first they answer that it is ‘the will of God’. Bit by bit we have showed them that it is not that. They argued that ‘God seated the tribes’ people and ordained that they should be unhappy, that they should be slaves’. So they are liable to eat up all their rice in feasts after the harvest, slaughter their cattle for ritual and starve for the rest of the year. ‘It may appease the Gods,’ they would say, ‘and in any case the tax collector would get it.’ “We explained that it was not God, but in the old days it was the French who made them give up all the fruits of their labour in taxes, or took them away for unpaid labour for months on end. Now it is the U.S. puppets. Maybe after some weeks they come back, having thought it all over. They ask many more questions and the day comes when they will shout: ‘It’s true, it’s true what you say. Our land is good, the soil is rich, the forest is full of elephants. There are riches all round, but we wear old, tom loincloths. We could live much better.’ When the truth dawns on them, they start to weep a lot at first and then they get angry.” A major reason for their miseries for generations past has been the almost complete lack of any medical or public health work. Smallpox and dysentery, their two greatest scourges, have wiped out whole communities in the past. Vietnamese cadres told of many instances of coming across abandoned villages where no one was left to bury the dead. The few survivors had set fire to the houses and fled into

An ethnic minority school in the jungle

the forest. I have talked with Jarai, Rhade and M’Nong tribesmen who have wept as they told of such calamities that they put down to the Gods. Their enemies exploited these superstitions and did everything to encourage them. At first the French, later the Diemists, used planes to drop napalm on dissident villages. Local agents said these were Kim Phiar, the firebird, dropping his excrement because God had been displeased by the tribe’s disobedience. They believed it until the NFL troops started shooting down some of these planes and they found not firebirds but U.S. and Vietnamese pilots inside. “We feel very moved when talking with the tribes’ people,” said one veteran Vietnamese cadre who had been sheltered

by them for many years. “They are so straightforward, so pure in their thoughts and expressions. Once they have given their word, it is for life. They are generous and honest, and prefer to die or endure the most terrible tortures rather than ever betray a friend.” “Our Kinh brothers brought us life and light in our darkness,” one dignified chief of the Hre people told me. “We will never abandon them.” These were typical observations, variants of which I was to hear time and again in the Tay Nguyen area. The sending, in 1945-46, of cadres to live and work in the Tay Nguyen was not only because of the strategic importance of having guerilla bases in this natural paradise for guerilla warfare, but it was in accordance

with a policy of “revolutionary humanism,” as my Vietnamese friends expressed it, to let a few rays of life into the lives of the tribes’ people. Wilfred Burchett was an Australian reporter often described at the ‘rebel journalist’ for his stories about the American War ‘from the other side’. After years of being at odds with the Australian government, last year the Melbourne Press Club inducted him into their Hall of Fame. Burchett was also the journalist to break the scoop of the 20th century — the devastation caused by dropping nuclear bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Special thanks to George Burchett for allowing us to republish this work. Please note that some of the language in this piece has been changed to reflect its modern-day spelling

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The Final Say

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THE FINAL SAY

NATIONAL

The Honda Cub Rises The medieval prophecy behind Vietnam’s best-loved motorbike. Words by Dara O Foghlu. Photos by Julie Vola

n the mid-sixteenth century, the great French seer Nostradamus predicted the popularity of the Honda Cub*.

The year 1958, the young bear will emerge from the rising sun, Born with nine and forty teeth, his great sons will roll over the earth, The gentle people will straddle his back, and the young men from the shore will sing highly of his merits. — Century X, Quatrain 43 Because of the witch trials, Nostradamus had to cloak his predictions in obscure language that only revealed its true meaning after the fact. However, this particular forecast, more than any other, is eerily accurate. In 1958, Soichiro Honda put the Cub into continuous manufacture in Japan [the young bear will emerge from [the land of] the rising sun].

A Rising Star The 49cc bike [nine and forty teeth] became a global phenomenon thanks to the 1962 US ad campaign, “You meet the nicest people on a Honda” [gentle people will straddle his back]. This marketing campaign expanded the

image of the motorcycle owner beyond that of a bearded gang member, and became the template for lifestyle advertising, while at the same time making the Cub the most produced internal combustion engine on the planet. The Honda 50 was followed by the Honda Super Cub 70, 90, 100 and 110 [the great sons will roll over the earth.] The use of the word “roll” here is a favourite pun among Nostradamites. The last line silences Nostradamus’ most sceptical detractors. It refers to a 1964 song recorded by The Beach Boys called Little Honda. Scholars point out that Nostradamus’ vision of the future was so clear that he even knew that The Beach Boys [the young men from the shore] would sing in high-pitched voices [will sing highly...]. Of course, Nostradamus never mentioned why people liked the Honda Cub as much as they do, or why he was interested in motorbike sales figures at all. So far, approximately 90 million Honda Cubs have been manufactured worldwide — pretty much equal to the population of Vietnam. Across all generations and demographics, the Cub is popular, and has been for more than 50 years. A relatively new trend among Cub owners

in Vietnam, however, is restoring and customising classic models. I arranged to meet Cub restorationist and owner of Raw Bikes, Eachan Andrew, to find out what’s so appealing about this motorbike that is, according to The Beach Boys, “more fun than a barrel of monkeys”.

Join the Cub I was half an hour early for our appointment. In a restaurant on the northern lip of West Lake, a speaker overhead was going, “love me like you do, blah blah like you do, do-da do-da do... what are you waiting for?” Over and over. It turns out this was the one-hour version of Ellie Goulding’s, Love Me Like You Do, from the 50 Shades of Grey soundtrack. (Nostradamus, by the way, panned both the books and the movie.) After the third loop of the song, and close to an existential crisis (what was I waiting for?), I ran downstairs and asked the waitress to change the music. When I came back to my seat, Eachan had arrived. A 20-something-year-old Scot living in Hanoi for the last few years, he restores and customises Honda Cubs for a living. He pulled his leather wallet out of his back pocket and sat down. The wallet is about two inches

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thick because of all the bike registration cards he carries around — bikes he’s fixing, and others he owns. His fingernails are constantly underlined with oil, and he tells me he was recently turned away by a manicurist who felt he was too much of a challenge. I asked Eachan why people like Cubs. “I think what makes them so popular is that young people can get them without a licence — they can get them as 50ccs,” he explained. “And they look retro. All over the world people are into their retro bikes and going back to really simple, old-fashioned ways.” So it’s a hipster thing, then? “I think it’s quite a hipster thing,” he adds. “I wouldn’t use the word ‘hipster’ though... it’s very hip. They’re cheap as well, and because there’s so many of them, they’re easy to repair.” He went on to tell me about a group of university students in Hanoi called the Vietnam Young Cubbers who take their classic Cubs on road trips. Their Facebook page is choc-a-bloc with soft-focus photos of Honda Cubs in pastoral settings. Cub clubs like these are everywhere, it seems, playing the part of David next to the Goliaths like Hell’s Angels on their beefy motorcycles.

Through Thick or Thin Many of Eachan’s customers — mostly males, aged 30 and under — want their Cubs restored to the original condition (which can cost up to US$1,000 or VND21.8 million), while others want their bikes ‘pimped’ for as much as VND40 million. Eachan says

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that when a customer wants a bike, he goes through every little detail so it comes out how they want it, but when they suggest something too gaudy, he tries to dissuade them. “If it’s something I know won’t look good, I’ll say, ‘Go ahead with it if you want, but I would suggest this’. And nine times out of 10 they say ‘oh okay’. The craziest design I was ever asked for was a crocodile skin wrap on the bike.” “You did it?” “Yeah.” “Did it look good?” “No. He loved it though.” This human-machine love exists for the VW Beetle as well, and certainly there are plenty of similarities between the classic Volkswagen and the Honda Cub. The manufacturing facility for the Cub was based on the Beetle’s Titanic production scale, both have become 20th century pop design icons, and — perhaps most importantly — people have made movies based on them. In Herbie (1964), the titular character is a sentient Beetle that helps a washed-up driver succeed both on the track and in love. There are several other movies in this series you should not watch. Meanwhile, in the 2008 Japanese film Super Cub (or Supa Kabu), a guy loses his superbike in a race and has to get a job in a noodle restaurant where he finds a rusty old Cub and restores it, and somehow ends up beating the Yakusa with it. The point is not that these films are brilliant. The point is that someone thought they could be, and that they loved

their Beetle or Honda Cub enough to make a movie out of it.

A Total Eclipse of the Heart Although he has owned more than 20 bikes in his life, Eachan is somewhat sentimental about his own Cub which he Frankensteined from the first two bikes he ever owned. “It’s the first bike I properly built, so I couldn’t get rid of it.” The original bird’s heart engine of the Honda C50 has been replaced with the oxen heart of a Honda Win, souping-up the black and red monster to 125cc. He has also fitted a higher steering column and BMX handlebars, giving it a chopper-style look. He tells me proudly that it survived a 2,000km road trip around Laos. As a bad parent to my Honda Wave, this warm and goodly obsession with Cubs was still beyond me. Perhaps it’s related to Flann O Brien’s “Molecule Theory” from The Dalkey Archive: “people who spend most of their natural lives riding [bikes] over the rocky roadsteads of the parish get their personalities mixed up with the personalities of their [bikes] as a result of the interchanging of the mollycules of each of them”. By this logic, these long-time Cub owners would, in fact, be more Cub than human, and the bikes themselves would contain the trapped essence of the original bike owners. This might explain the exponential rise of the Cubs, and the owners’ dedication to their bikes. Nostradamus did try to warn us. *completely untrue