Wonderfilled Magazine
SALT LAKE CITY
CITY STATS COUNTRY: The United States POPULATION: 186,440 GOVERNMENT: Federal Republic LANGUAGE: English CURRENCY: Dollar
Map by Jay Hill
EVERY ISSUE 3 Map 11 Editor’s letter 16 Perfect Day 37 Happy Hour 80 Style Profile 100 Stylish Street 110 City Guide 112 Sister City
FEATURES VOLUME FIVE
22
JUST ADD ZEST
28
AVENUES BISTRO
40
FRESHLY BREWED
50
SODALICIOUS
56
FAITH IN THE CITY
62
SURF’S UP
72
SALT LAKE’S SECRETS
84
BEAUTIFUL BOHEM
92
HOLLY ADDI
Cover photo by Greg Rakozy Features page photo by Matthew Windsor
press play Enjoy the ultimate playlist of sweet Salt Lake tunes as curated by SLC band, Canyons. Their own songs breathe emotion into thoughtful lyrics and storyful folk beats—we knew they’d collect the best that showcase the music scene in the city. With two hours of music (and growing!), this is just a sample of their ultimate SLC playlist. Find us on Spotify to fully experience the sounds of the Wasatch range. Glow THE NATIONAL PARKS Way Down South CANDY’S RIVER HOUSE Make you Mine MICHELLE MOONSHINE Ghost Boyfriend BABY GHOST The Great Salt Lake BAND OF HORSES Young & Unafraid THE MOTH & THE FLAME I’m Gonna Shine MARY TEBBS Trash TYLER GLENN Animal NEON TREES Crazy ROYAL BLISS Walk Right In RED BENNIES
TEAM WONDERFILLED KELLEY ENGELBRECHT Co-Founder & Editor-in-Chief JULIA ENGELBRECHT Co-Founder JOE PERKINS Copy Editor
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photo by Greg Rakozy
hello! I distinctively remember visiting family in Salt Lake City when I was little girl. For a Midwestern kid, it felt otherworldly as I looked up at the snow-capped peaks that surrounded my grandmother’s hometown, just south of the city. As the arid landscape stretched for miles in front me, it felt simply magical. When we decided to explore Salt Lake City in our fifth volume, I was excited and intrigued to discover how things had changed in my 20-plus year absence. We started by making a list of everything we knew about the city: the world headquarters of the LDS Church, a destination for world-class outdoor activities, and mountains. Those beautiful, majestic mountains. As it turned out, our original assessment still rang true. Take a stroll around the beautiful Temple grounds or hop up to Park City for a little skiing and you’ll see how the city still celebrates its heritage. But as we started to explore, peeling away each of its many layers, we discovered a new city that’s starting to flourish: inventive restaurants, globetrotting artists and innovative startups are carving out unique spaces within Salt Lake’s culture. Our goal was to avoid the obvious. We focused on the outdoor craftsmen, as opposed to the great outdoors itself; we took a look at spiritually, but not the faith that the city is known for. We wanted to present a new look at Salt Lake City as a constantly evolving center of ideas and innovation. This issue may be one of my favorites yet. It felt like both a homecoming and an adventure, each corner rich with discovery. And as it was a few decades earlier, those mountains still made this Midwestern girl’s heart skip a beat.
photo of the editor’s grandmother as a little girl in Spanish Fork, Utah
CONTRIBUTORS AUSTEN DIAMOND
GREG RAKOZY
PHOTOGRAPHER
PHOTOGRAPHER
RYKER GARRETT
STEPHANIE RUIZ
PHOTOGRAPHER
PHOTOGRAPHER
ELLE GRIFFIN
KIT WARCHOL
WRITER
WRITER
JAY HILL
MATTHEW WINDSOR
MAP MAKER
PHOTOGRAPHER
RACHEL HOFSTETTER
ERIN WYNESS
WRITER
PHOTOGRAPHER
JOE PERKINS
MAUREEN YOSHIZAKI
WRITER
WRITER
photo by Matthew Windsor
@moudisbeity
@rachelosguthorpe
@dallas_a_graham
@vanlifevagabonds
# DA I LY WO N D E R
your daily dose of inspiration straight from the shores of the great Salt Lake
@joshysoul
@bubbleandbrown
@houselarsbuilt
@justinhackworth
THE PERFECT DAY photos by Austen Diamond & Kelley Engelbrecht
For Rachel Hofstetter, Chief Marketing Officer at Provo-based Chatbooks, her perfect day includes a healthy balance of delicious food and active living. From hikes to Mexican food to cocktails, it’s a fool-proof way to fall in love with Salt Lake City. .
Pastries at Publik Kitchen
YOGA AT CENTERED CITY Start the day off with a yoga class at this gorgeous studio in the leafy, walkable 9th and 9th district. Look for any class held in the Crown Room, which features 20 foot high windows overlooking the mountains. BREAKFAST AT PUBLIK KITCHEN After yoga, head across the street to Publik for breakfast. This local group roasts their own coffee, and the vibe is complete Salt Lake: modern, minimalist, and way more hip than you’d expect. The toasts (with lots of toppings!) are popular, but I go for the spicy granola over yogurt--and unlimited coffee refills. HIKE THE BONNEVILLE SHORELINE TRAIL You’ve already been active, but in SLC there’s no such thing as too active! And any perfect day in SLC needs a hike. My favorite: Head up to the Bonneville Trail for a wander and amazing views of the city. There are lots of spots to hop on the trail above the University of Utah or the Natural History Museum… pick a favorite and stroll away.
LATE LUNCH AT RED IGUANA This spot serves the best mole sauces in the U.S.-seriously. The wait can be long, but the brightly painted rooms are fun, the mole sampler plate for newcomers is the best, and the margaritas make it all worthwhile. Get the Puntas de Filete a la Nortena--a mix of steak, bacon, and jalapenos topped with almond mole. It sounds weird, tastes amazing. (Make like the locals and head to the second location--just a block away--if the wait at Red Iguana feels oppressive.) TAKE THE AFTERNOON EASY! (Now you should probably take a nap‌ or go hang out at Liberty Park or the mall. Or wander through the LDS Temple grounds downtown, and maybe even pop in for a short tour.) END WITH A COCKTAIL End with a cocktail and snack at Under Current This sleek bar still feels friendly and cozy—and the cocktails are perfectly mixed and go down easy. Grab a spot at one of the low tables and settle in for people watching--and reminiscing about your fun day in SLC.
Views from the Bonneville Shoreline Trail
FOOD Get a taste of the city
photo by Austen Diamond
just add
Zest article & photos by Kelley Engelbrecht
“Wait, there’s no actual cheese in this?” I ask incredulously, ribbons of zucchini twirled around my fork. I’m at Zest, having a moment with their baked zuc & cheese, dairy free and incredibly flavorful. The zucchini noodles are baked in house-made tomato squash-marinara sauce, topped with a bubbling layer of daiya*. Topped with micro-greens purveyed from a local green house, it’s delicious; it’s inventive; I’m in love. Owner Casey Staker smiles and nods. Next, I’m diving into the ‘barbacoa’ tacos, made with mushrooms, seasoned to perfection with a hint of spice (scratch that – a healthy dose of spice); the flavors marinate together to create something special. Paired with creamy cauliflower soup, it’s enough to make you rethink everything you’ve ever thought about health food. And that’s the point. A vegetarian for over seven years, Casey knows what it’s like to be confronted with limited options. “You can only have the Whole Foods salad bar so many times before you need something else,” he says, mixing a straw-bubbly lavender martini, made with freshly squeezed strawberry juice. Casey’s no stranger to Salt Lake City’s social scene. Before Zest, he owned downtown dance bar, W Lounge. But with Zest, it’s more about good, healthy food than club beats – even though deejays are invited to spin on the weekends. “I wanted to own a place that serves food. Not just bar food, but healthy, tasty cuisine – you can’t give people junk food and dance parties all the
Baked Zuc & Cheese
‘Barbacoa’ Tacos
time. That’s not real life,” reflects Casey, as he places the finishing touches on the martini – a delicate, pink flower. Presentation, atmosphere, service – all are given as much attention as the food itself, a testament to Casey’s perfectionist tendencies and desire to create a space that can truly compete with the Salt Lake City food scene. As I start to sip on the cocktail (delicious, by the way), we delve into Casey’s culinary training, born out of the daytime boredom that arises when you only work nights. “I had free time, so I started taking classes and looking for raw food and healthy food retreats,” says Casey. The subject matter went far beyond recipes – he learned about nutrition, why certain oils are better than others and how to create healthy, flavorful food. It’s a simple breakdown: use organic ingredients when possible, apply heat only when necessary to preserve enzymes in raw food, and be intentional when making food. “When you cut out animal products, you cut out other things too and it makes you rethink how you make food.” Consider dairy substitutes: while the easiest, is soy the best option? Casey would say no – and then challenge you to get creative with almonds or coconut. Creativity is king at Zest, with rotating specials from both the bar and kitchen. The local green house that supplies their micro greens will often include new ingredients, like red green sorrel or Greek basil that the chefs enthusiastically incorporate into their dishes. Last year, the pastry chef experimented with a new dessert each week. As I enjoy my martini, listening to the sweet retro sounds of the rat pack (and I note how Casey’s deejay background has not gone to waste), the lunch crowd starts to pack in, filling the dining room with a gentle din. I peek into the kitchen – Casey’s staff is laughing as they prep food. That’s the thing about Zest: it’s a not-so-new concept (vegetarian food) with a unique twist. It’s filling, not heavy; healthy, not boring; and so damn delicious. d
zest kitchen & bar’s
summer salad dressing Note from Casey: Most dressings call for sweeteners like agave, brown sugar, maple syrup or cane sugar. We prefer to use substitutions like apple juice, orange juice, dates (soaked for an hour or two), raisins and fresh stevia leaves - if you can find them and like the flavor. Want a sweeter dressig? Use raw local honey or maple syrup instead of fruit.
1/2 cup BRAGGS ORGANIC APPLE CIDER VINEGAR full of health benefits & probiotics
2 GARLIC CLOVES
1/4 cup HEMP SEED OIL olive or grapeseed oil can be used in its place, or white wine if you don’’t use oil
1/2-1 WHOLE SHALLOT you can also use a red onion
1-2 MINT LEAVES
couple dashes of HIMALAYAN SEA SALT 1/2 cup HEMP SEEDs to add extra creaminess 1/4 cup RAISINS 1/4 cup ORANGE JUICE leave this out for a less sweet dressing
a couple PEPPER dashes Blend with an immersion blender, Add SALT & PEPPER to taste if needed
Avenues Bistr photo essay by Erin Wyness
ro on Third
A
venues Bistro on Third is a restaurant unlike anything else you’ve ever experienced. Nestled in the historic Avenues neighborhood, it’s rooted in community and focused on serving fresh, delicious food. Housed in a converted pharmacy, owner Kathie Chadbourne has a penchant for the truly local. Behind the bistro, stone paths wind through gardens filled with tomatoes, herbs and other seasonal produce. Bees buzz around the hives that sit at the edge of the property, beautiful grapes ripen on the arbored vines while chickens dart around the coop. And throughout the day, cooks stroll out to the backyard to forage for the ingredients that grace the plate. On a warm spring afternoon, photographer Erin Wyness captured the magic of the bistro’s backyard. From the budding seedlings, to Kathie’s infectious smile, it’s easy to imagine that this is the kind of the farm-totable dining experience that feeds the body, mind and soul.
Avenues Breakfast Sausage We can almost smell this sausage, crackling in the skillet, on a lazy weekend morning. Even though dried versions of the herbs are listed, make like Kathie and use fresh whenever possible - you’d better believe that they go to the garden when they make this sausage at the bistro. Best served with a strong cup of coffee and the Sunday paper! 5 lbs GROUND PORK 2 tbsp BLACK PEPPER 2 tbsp DRIED OREGANO 2 tbsp DRIED THYME 2 tbsp SALT 2 tbsp DRIED SAGE 1 tbsp GROUND MUSTARD 1 tbsp GARLIC POWDER 3 tbsp BROWN SUGAR Mix all ingredients by hand in bowl. Form patties. Heat oil in a skillet, add meat, and sauté until brown and cooked through (approximately 10 to 15 minutes).
photo by Greg Rakozy
HAPPY HOUR
photos by Erik Ostling & Kelley Engelbrecht
Craft spirits may not be the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Salt Lake City, but thanks to a growing number of small-batch distilleries, cocktail culture is on the rise. Since this is the season for imbibing al fresco, we asked around for refreshing cocktail recipes that celebrate summer (and, of course, Salt Lake City).
BEEHIVE DISTILLING Aged in hand charred French oak barrels, this distillery has cracked the code when it comes to beautifully complex gin.
JACK RABBIT GIN GIMLET
BARREL RESERVE GIN SOUR
2 oz Jack Rabbit Gin .75 oz simple syrup .75 oz lime juice
2 oz Beehive Barrel Reserve .75 oz lemon juice .75 oz honey simple syrup
Shake vigorously and strain into a chilled coup. Garnish with a twist of lime.
Put everything in a shaker with ice, shake. You can either just dump the whole thing into a glass (this makes it a bit more slushy) or strain into a glass with fresh ice if you fell fancy. Garnish with cherry and a twist of orange
DENTED BRICK DISTILLERY What happens when you use only local, raw ingredients & fresh mountain water from an artesian well? Flavorful white rum that pays homage to a prehistoric Salt Lake island
DENTED DRAKE MOJITO
JAGUAR SHARK
A tribute to those who’ve traveled troubled waters
A new cocktail tribute to Steve Zissou
1.5oz Antelope Island Rum 2 lime wedges 1 tsp Turbinado sugar 2-4 mint and spearmint leaves Soda water
1.5oz Antelope Island Rum .25oz Campari 1.25oz Fresh Mango Juice
Put the sugar, mint, and spearmint leaves into glass. Squeeze lime wedges over the sugar and mint. Lightly muddle. (bruise the leaves, don’t shred them) Add Antelope Island Rum. Throw in crushed ice, top with soda water.
Add all contents to a shaker and fill with ice. Shake briefly, then strain into a cocktail glass.
FRESHLY BREWED by Kit Warchol | photos by Austen Diamond
In a sense, Publik Coffee Roasters broke all the rules when it opened in a sprawling warehouse in downtown Salt Lake City. the neighborhood wasn’t a neighborhood yet, exactly—instead it was a mix of mostly dilapidated businesses and shops and some quiet residential homes. And then there’s the whole “Mormons don’t drink coffee” thing. But there’s something about the scofflaws of Salt Lake. There are distilleries that triumph in the face of strict state liquor laws and restaurants with food that rivals the best spots in New York and Chicago. The rise of local coffee culture, then, isn’t so surprising. You might say the city was poised for it to happen. And you also might say Publik is the epicenter. Even so, when Missy Greis opened the first Publik location just over two years ago, no one could have anticipated how successful she’d be. The concept was both simple and daring: to convert a 12,000 square foot space into a sustainable roastery and communal hub. There were no bells and whistles, just great coffee and equally delicious toast. It was exactly the earnest business model that succeeds in a supportive, word-of-mouth community like Salt Lake City. Since opening the flagship roastery, Publik has expanded with two more locations, another coffee shop and the new Publik Kitchen (for those who want a heartier breakfast than the flagship’s toast menu). It’s no secret that communities are built around coffee shops, and Publik proves it daily. On any given morning, you’ll find neighborhood residents trickling in for shots of espresso or (Missy’s favorite) a perfect cortado. Yes, there are the requisite latte leaves, but there are also comfortable tables where freelancers sprawl out for the day to get some work done and families with strollers. This is coffee done well by people who care as much about their city as they do about the craft of roasting.
WHERE ARE YOU FROM ORIGINALLY, AND WHAT BROUGHT YOU TO SALT LAKE? I’m originally from Aspen, Colorado. I moved here in 1997 and began purchasing and renovating commercial buildings, and then leasing space within them. The first building I purchased was in the 9th and 9th District, which now houses Publik Kitchen. Today is actually the 2nd anniversary of our flagship store and roastery on West Temple! We opened Publik Kitchen in January and, a month later, we opened Publik in the Avenues (our second coffee house). HOW IS PUBLIK’S APPROACH TO COFFEE AND ROASTING UNIQUE? We care. We care about every aspect from sourcing green coffee to profiling and roasting and we’ve placed significant importance on sustainability. The roasting process is thorough and detailed to ensure that all of the blends are interesting and that the single origins truly highlight their regional characteristics. Our roastery is 100% solar powered and we are one of two roasters in Utah that has an afterburner —and oxidizer that filters out 96% of the particulates that affect air quality. We compost and use compostable coffee filters in all of our brewer, as well as our eco-line of to-go packaging. Utah has a horrible air quality situation and being conscientious about the environment is part of our culture.
THE WEST TEMPLE LOCATION WAS KIND OF AN ANOMALY WHEN IT OPENED, SURROUNDED BY MOSTLY INDUSTRIAL BUILDINGS AND... NOT MUCH ELSE. NOW IT’S WILDLY POPULAR WITH OTHER BUSINESSES POPPING UP AROUND IT. WHAT DREW YOU TO THE LOCATION? The building was the draw. The intention was to have wholesale and the event venue be the focus. If people came to root down and drink coffee, that would be a plus. It’s a destination, and the fact that people do drop by for coffee is really fantastic. WHAT SETS SALT LAKE CITY’S FOOD AND COFFEE SCENE APART FROM THE OTHER SCENES POPPING UP IN MID-SIZED CITIES, LIKE MINNEAPOLIS OR PORTLAND? There is so much ...but, one note: because Salt Lake City is small, it’s a really easy environment to launch and network a new venture. Word of mouth is the greatest marketing tool. Plus, the changing demographic and culture that craves craft coffee has opened up limitless possibilities. WHO ELSE OR WHAT OTHER BUSINESSES DO YOU ADMIRE IN THE UTAH FOOD COMMUNITY? This is tricky. If I start a list, I leave people out —or you’re going to get a massive list. I can say that I admire all of the local craft coffee roasters and local brewers and distilleries as well as the local artisan food companies like Amour Jams, Solstice Chocolate and our bread supplier in Park City, Red Bicycle Breadworks.
“We care. We care about every aspect from sourcing green coffee to profiling and roasting and we’ve placed significant importance on sustainability.”
OKAY: WHY TOAST? AND WHY IS IT SO GOOD? Toast because we don’t have a full kitchen at the roastery, nor in our smaller coffee house in the Avenues. The bread and jam are both local (Amour Spreads and Red Bicycle Breadworks) and are so amazing that we decided to just carry those over at Publik Kitchen with the addition of kickass breakfast items and our housemade granola. WHAT DOES YOUR TYPICAL DAILY ROUTINE LOOK LIKE? I typically have coffee at each location 6-7 days a week, sometimes twice in a day. I almost always find a way to have one meal at Publik Kitchen everyday. WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE THING ON YOUR MENU? Chicken salad melt with the local bacon and melted cheddar. The chicken is poached in onion and celery, and we make our own mayo. As for coffee, it’s a Cortado. Two shots of espresso and an equal amount of whole milk. Whole milk is the only way to go! IN FIVE WORDS (OR LESS), WHAT’S THE VIBE YOU’RE GOING FOR WITH PUBLIK? Local. Lively. Detailed. Irreverent. YOUR FAVORITE THING ABOUT SALT LAKE CITY? The accessibility to the mountains and the easy, urban lifestyle. It’s really more like a small town and I love that d.
so refreshing, so tasty
SODALICIOUS!
It’s time to get dirty – a dirty coke, that is. A quick jaunt south of Salt Lake City, Provo is home to Sodalicious, one of Utah’s infamous soda shacks. The concept is simple: your favorite soda + a concoction of fruit syrups = an addictingly wonderful beverage with a cult-like following. If you can’t make the trip, local soda expert, Emily Hutchison shares how you can add a little Utah to your favorite soda pop!
Dirty Po p 2-3 pumps of coconut syrup Add ice! Squeeze in fresh lime juice + lime quarters Pour over your favorite soda (we used coke) Feeling EXTRA DIRTY? Add 1-2 teaspoons of half & half
CRAFT Meet the movers and the makers
photo by Ryker Garrett photo by Ryker Garret
h t i a
F
in the city
by Elle Griffin photos by Stephanie Ruiz & Matthew Windsor
In the United States, few cities hold the same unique distinction as Salt Lake City. As the headquarters of an international faith base, we wanted to know how the faith culture is built and crafted in this so-called promised land. Elle Griffin, religious scholar & founder of Over the Moon Mag, took us on a tour of the spirituality inspired in the city.
Think of Salt Lake City, and you will immediately think of the Temple. After all, it was the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints who first settled in this city, and soon after adorned it with their hauntingly beautiful architecture. But wander away from Temple Square and you will find a city rich in spiritual splendor. The city itself makes a fine pilgrimage. I made my first pilgrimage to Salt Lake City several years before my husband and I moved here. As a Catholic Mariology scholar I was enthralled by the art and architecture that proved the salty city worthy of it’s spiritual stereotype. I no longer needed to travel to the cathedrals of Rome or the catacombs of Paris. Everything required of a classic pilgrimage was right here in this city. A living testament to the people who
once wandered here, and those that have since made it home.
The Cathedral of the Madeleine Like any good pilgrimage, we must start with Cathedrals. And oh what a Cathedral! The Cathedral of the Madeleine was completed in 1909 and is the only Catholic Church in America to be named for Mary Magdalene. Step up behind the alter and you will even find a relic of the ancient saint, stolen from her tomb in the South of France. The red head is painted everywhere within the cathedral. As is the holy mother. In fact, the feminine presence is so strong in this cathedral you will find
it somewhat overpowers the prevalence of men. Every stained glass window depicts the virgin mother, a small chapel just outside the Cathedral is devoted to her, and if you wander over to the rectory you will find her likeness carved in wood, a rosary held firmly in her hands. But if you are not moved by art and bones, sometimes a little movement is required.
Saint Mark’s Labyrinth Only two blocks away from the Cathedral is Saint Mark’s Episcopal Church where a courtyard is elegantly decorated with a walkable labyrinth. Perhaps started by the Greeks and their Minotaur-holding maze, the labyrinth has come into modern use by the Christians as a sort of walking meditation, symbolic of the one true path, and representative of the road to Jerusalem. After a good walk, it’s time for some coffee.
Magdalene’s Coffee Grotto That’s right. A coffee shop named for Mary Magdalene. Are we sensing a theme here? The grotto sells mantillas, rosaries, bottles of holy water, and every manor of religious goods necessary to fill the soul, not to mention a plethora of caffeinated concoctions to fill the belly. And of course, there’s a prayer room. What’s a coffee shop without one? With a latte in hand, and a moment to relax, I don’t know about you, but I’m ready to shop.
Mineral and Matter After such a prayerful morning, I like to switch gears in the afternoon with something a little more spritely. Namely, shopping. And there’s nothing this spiritual soul loves more than some high quality adornment. With geometric jewelry and feather inspired flare, whether your spiritual style is bohemian or burning man Mineral and Matter has everything essential to bedecking your body by way of your soul. With an outside that now matches the inside, it’s time for the afterparty.
Bodega By now we need to blow off some steam. And there’s no place better for that than Bodega. Armed with an arsenal of Mary’s this mexican inspired bodega serves up spiritual substance by way of Our Lady of Guadalupe, the image of the Virgin Mother who mysteriously appeared before Mexican native Juan Diego in 1531. Asked by the holy mother to fill his cloak with flowers, he brought them to the local archbishop only to find his cloak now filled with the miraculous image of the Virgin Mary. The image still hangs in Mexico City to this day, but you don’t have to pilgrimage to Mexico City to see her. She’s everywhere in Bodega. Sit back, enjoy a cocktail or two, and give a cheers to Our Lady. (And don’t forget to venture downstairs for dinner!) d
Surf's Up by Joe Perkins | photos by Ryker Garrett
It’s cold. You can feel it on your cheeks; deep breathes fog in the mountain breeze. Yet oddly, there are surfboards – everywhere.. The juxtaposition confuses the senses. The floors here are caked in a thin sheet of foam soot; raw supplies are scattered about. The familiar sting of polyurethane hangs in the air, hitting the nose and stomach in sync. A local craftsman perfects his trade. Outfitted in his favorite pair of Carhartt jeans and a Patagonia tee, he tucks an overstuffed head of shaggy red hair under his custom cap. His hands are steady; knuckles covered in dry, cracked resin. He focuses intently behind a grizzly, rustcolored beard. Tucked away in SLC’s Holladay neighborhood, beneath the looming Wasatch Mountain Range, the man behind Dirtybird Boards works to complete his latest custom project. While ski resorts like Brighton and Alta have made Salt Lake an annual mecca for winter sportsmen; this Dirtybird is catering to a different crowd. These boards aren’t meant for gently powdered slopes; these boards are meant for the sun, beach and surf. With a timely business opportunity in the SLC valley, owner Jay Hill is now finding a way to bring his passion to the mountain culture masses.
Simple as that. Jay spent the following summer chasing waves up and down the Lake Erie coast with his new
“For me personally, surfing is one of the most pure forms of fun you can have. That’s the best way
custom board in tow. That Fall, Jay enrolled in Ohio University’s Geographic Information Studies program – a decision that would
I can describe it. There’s nothing
eventually land him in Salt Lake; but first, he had a
more fun than paddling out with
college campus to explore.
your friends, catching a wave & getting barreled. There’s just something about that feeling.”
The thing about an 8-foot surfboard is that, well, it’s rather hard to ignore. Without much effort, Jay found himself connecting with a small group of friends eager to learn more about the ocean sport. Before he knew it, Jay saw the group expand to dozens of interested co-eds (he credits the timely box-office release of ‘Blue Crush’ for surfing’s sudden popularity). In the spring of
It’s a rather odd tale: surf-obsessed craftsman planting
2003, Jay officially founded Ohio University’s Student
his roots in the valley of the Great Salt Lake. Yet, the
Surf Club.
more you know, the more it makes sense. The story of the Dirtybird starts in a small rustbelt
Over the next few years, OU’s Surf Club would
suburb on the outskirts of Akron, Ohio - a traditionally
organize spring break & summer trips to Florida, the
proud Northeast Ohio community once known as
Outer Banks, and even Costa Rica. It was back in 2005,
the Rubber Capital of the World. Geographically
during their senior-year trip that a brand name was
landlocked, Jay was first introduced to surfing through
born.
annual family vacations to the Outer Banks. It didn’t take long for this native Ohio boy to become
“My one friend Ashton - who I shaped a board for in
hypnotized by the waves.
Ohio – he used to call me ‘Jaybird’. We were in Costa Rica, and before I would paddle out I would… umm…
Always a bit of a craftsman, Jay decided to build his
always pee on the beach. So one day he saw me do
first custom surfboard as a rather ambitious senior-
this and started calling me ‘Dirtybird’… from there, it
year shop class project. After securing the needed
kinda stuck. Ashton’s roommate was a graphic designer
supplies online (the closest surf shop being 100s of
and offered to draw me a logo. And that’s still the logo
mile away), he was ready to bring this idea to life.
we use today.”
Through college, Jay continued to hone his board-
After graduation, Jay bounced between life on the
shaping skills from a small utility room in the back of his
mountains and life on the beach. His first summer
dilapidated rental home: “It was a turning point” he said,
after school was spent surfing the Carolina Coast. That
“I was doing everything: glassing, shaping, sanding, and
winter, Jay made his first move to Salt Lake City to
painting. I started doing a lot of resin work. I started
spend a season working the slopes at Brighton Resort.
shaping my own fins.”
This is where he first fell for the majestic Wasatch Range and the city’s subtle allure.
The surf club provided Jay with something more than just a way to finance beach vacations. It gave him a
The following summer, Jay found work back in the
prime target market to expand his custom board
Outer Banks at a local Surf Shop while continuing to
business. Jay went from shaping a handful of boards for
make boards on the side. Unfortunately, his hobby
close friends to shaping 25-30 custom boards between
didn’t sit well with the shop’s owner, who became
his junior & senior year.
paranoid of Jay pushing his custom boards.
“So I make the move. I’m here. I’m bored. I’m used to “He was selling Chinese made pop-outs, and I created
always working with my hands. I brought my tools.”
a custom product,” Jay said, “I didn’t feel like we were in competition, but sometimes he got a little funny
In a rather matter-of-fact sense, Jay continued to shape
about it.”
surfboards from the garage of his new mountainside Summit Park home.
Overall though, Jay found a true sense of community in the Outer Banks with his customers, neighbors, and
It should be noted that there’s quite a bit of crossover
even competitors.
in surf & ski culture. It’s not unusual for mountain dwellers to take surf trips in the off-season, “if not
“The [surf] community has always been helpful. We’d
completely move to Central America or some place
see the other guys – the other shapers at the grocery
to surf,” Jay laments. The point being, surfing isn’t a
store, at lunch, in the water surfing. We’d all surf
foreign concept to Salt Lake mountain culture. People
together. It was good. North Carolina is special.”
are familiar with it. They recognize it when they see it. So people took notice of this mountain man and his
In the end, however, the same saturated market that
ocean boards.
created such a close-knit community would force Jay to make an important decision: He couldn’t support
Jay notes, “It was also right when stand up paddle
himself on surfboards alone.
boarding was taking off, so I started doing repairs on paddle boards, because no one else knew how to fix
“[My wife and I] had always talked about moving back
them. Word got out.”
to Salt Lake. It’s just such a cool scene out here. [We] would debate, ‘Is it better to live in the mountains
Even in Salt Lake, Jay began making connections. He
& travel for surf, or to live on the beach & travel for
started making boards for neighbors & acquaintances,
snow?’” The answer, of course, is that there is no bad
building a reputation through word of mouth. It was
choice.
through one of these new connections that Jay found
In rather short order, Jay landed a job with the Utah
an opportunity to bridge his surf passion into his more
Geological Survey. The couple packed up shop and
immediate surroundings.
headed West. It wasn’t long after they settled that Jay
In 2012, Jay embarked on a new project focused on an
began to feel that familiar craftsman itch once again.
up & coming alternative market: wake surfing, an inland water sport that has inherent ties to his first true love.
Jay connected with business partners Joel Macdonald
workshop provides him with a space to continue
and Rob Loos in 2012 to launch ‘Skullcrackers’ - a new
crafting ocean surfboards on the side for family &
line of locally made wake surfboards - to the Salt Lake
friends. When posed with the question of eventually
market.
incorporating Dirtybird Surf, Jay is still trying to figure that out.
“Wake surf seems promising. There’s not a lot of competition, and it’s kind of an emerging market. The whole artificial wave / man-made wave technology is becoming increasing popular, so it’s opening up more opportunities.” In fact, Skullcrackers recently entered into a new regional distribution agreement with MasterCraft - a premiere national powerboat manufacturer - to begin stocking boards in their Salt Lake and Lake Powell retail locations. Customers will now be able to order
“I really enjoy doing the custom stuff. I enjoy knowing my customer, and working one-on-one with them; but in order for a business to work, you can’t always afford to do that.” For now, Jay seems content with spreading his passion the old-fashioned way: personal connections & wordof-mouth recommendations. Having spent time living in both the mountains and on the beach, Jay sees an obvious parallel between ski & surf lifestyles; and, he’s willing to preach the good word to just about anyone willing to lend an ear.
custom wake surfboards through MasterCraft’s online storefront (thewakeshop.com), as well. The Skullcrackers venture also provided Jay with something he’s desperately needed – a proper workspace. Since moving to Salt Lake, Jay had been shaping boards from the cramped confines of a makeshift garage studio. The new Skullcrackers
“Surfing is…. cool. It just bleeds cool. It sells itself. For me personally, surfing is one of the most pure forms of fun you can have. That’s the best way I can describe it. There’s nothing more fun than paddling out with your friends, catching a wave & getting barreled. There’s just something about that feeling.” d
Salt Lake’s
@baya_voce
SECRETS You’re handed a cupcake by a stranger.
Inside are instructions – you’ve just been invited to Secret Salt Lake City’s next event. What is it? You don’t know: you won’t know who’s going to be there and you definitely won’t know what’s going to happen next.
@itspfeffernusse
If you’re lucky, you’ll be given a set of
fact that everybody is working on something
instructions on what to do next; but up until
big—you get magic.”
that point, anything’s fair game. It doesn’t hurt, either, that you’ll probably find Think about it. In a world where you can
yourself munching on delectable bites and
access anything - where information is
imbibing on local spirits.
available at the touch of a button - surprises are hard to come by, and secrets are harder
Come for the intrigue, stay for the food, and
to be kept.
leave with invaluable connections. In recent years, Salt Lake City has made headlines as
With this event, you’re getting a taste of
a new hotbed of startups and innovation.
something that’s truly special: an exclusive
Doing a quick scan of the landscape, you’ll
party that’s part TED talk, part SXSW, part
find software companies, medical devise
Great Gatsby, and 100% mystery.
manufacturers and aerospace products, among others. Add in the bevy of new
The brainchild of a local entrepreneur, the
restaurants, creative endeavors and small
only person who knows exactly who is
businesses, and you’ll quickly see that the
going – or what’s going to happen next – is
city is rich with personality and story. And
Baya Voce, founder and lead organizer. She
at Secret SLC, you’re at the intersection of
artfully curates the guest list (a collection of
everything.
creatives, makers and doers) based on their interests and passions mixed with a dose of
So, go ahead, start introducing yourself. No
psychology and a hint of matchmaking.
one else knows what’s going on, but if you’re lucky, you may get a little help to get the
If you’re invited, you’re there for a reason.
conversation going.
The idea is to connect fascinating people
“I was given Secret SLC drink tickets that
doing fascinating things in Salt Lake City.
encouraged me to go up to a new person and ask a specific question,” says Rachel
Baya puts it like this: “When you mix
Hofstetter, VP of Marketing at Chatbooks.
entrepreneurs with creatives with outlandish
“Within minutes, I had lots of new friends!”
personality types—and match that with the
“...you get magic”
@rachelhoffy1
photo by Photo Collective Studios
For Rachel, a few notable guests – and new friends - included the mayor of Salt Lake City and a troupe of opera singers, serenading the party. With Salt Lake City as the backdrop, you could find yourself anywhere around town. Last fall, the invitation instructed everyone to wear white. Guests arrived at the location - a colorful, graffiti-ed alley, filled with long tables for dining al fresco - to the soulful vintage vibes of Joshy Soul & the Cool and a gravity-defying acro-performance by Anima Duo. Earlier that summer, Baya and her team brought together their curated community at the Leonardo, a museum dedicated to technology, art & science. With an impressive nest-like installation by Dallas Graham, guests were treated to a night of story, both from others and about themselves. The Bumbles, anonymous (and disguised) poets, silently observed willing participants and typed up their assessment. What will happen next? Who knows. Are you on the list? Only time will tell. But what we do know is that this is just the tip of the iceberg – for Salt Lake City and for Secret SLC. The city is ripe for discovery of scenery and self. Keep your eyes open and your hustle game strong – you might just be let in on the secret. d
DESIGN Experience the aesthetic
darling dishes by Lynn Cosyn
STYLE PROFILE
Courtney Carver is the champion of the minimalist wardrobe movement. When life threw her a curveball, she eliminated the clutter and, in turn, found her signature style. Her blog, Be More With Less, chronicles her journey in simple style, while Project 333 (33 pieces of clothing, every 3 months) encourages others to follow suite. Simplicity has nevery looked so good! What triggered simplicity in my life was what I like to call my “ENOUGH IS ENOUGH”
MOMENT. In 2006 I was diagnosed with Multiple Sclerosis while training for the MS 150, a cycling event in Salt Lake City to raise funds for National Multiple Sclerosis Society. I had a very busy life, stressful job, and was always after more. My attempt to do more, own more, and convince people I was more didn’t resonate with my heart and literally broke my body. I slowly turned my focus from more to less. I edited out unhealthy food, debt, clutter, work I didn’t love and eventually, a wardrobe that was always reminding me that what I had would never be enough. I moved to SALT LAKE CITY IN 2004 from New Hampshire. While visiting my parents, we fell in love with the beautiful views, awesome skiing and hiking, and decided to relocate. It’s an easy place to be with lower cost of living than some cities, has an international airport close by and year after year, we find new things to love about living here. Until I started PROJECT 333, I didn’t really have an aesthetic. Since there was so much to choose from in my closet, I didn’t really know what I liked or didn’t like. Once I pared down my wardrobe, I had more clarity about what really fit my body and lifestyle. Most of what I wear is SIMPLE AND CLASSIC. I don’t want to spend any time deciding what to wear. We have enough decisions to make each day, so I like to avoid making any in the morning choosing an outfit. Then I have more clarity for the decisions that really matter.
WHAT DO YOU CONSIDER WHEN ADDING PIECES TO YOUR WARDROBE? After each 3 month season, I consider what I need for the following season. Usually, I have everything I need. If I do need something, or want to add something new, I don’t go shopping and just see what happens, but instead am very specific about what I’m looking for. It saves time, energy, and money.
WHAT’S YOUR GO-TO OUTFIT? Jeans + shirt + blazer. Simple right?
WHAT’S IN YOUR MAKE-UP BAG? The most important thing in my make up bag is good moisturizer with sunscreen. Utah is really dry! d
As told to Kelley Engelbrecht | first photo by Erin Wyness | additional provided by Courtney Carver
Beautiful BohemB by Kelley Engelbrecht Photos by Austen Diamond & Kelley Engelbrecht
BOHEM
The story of Bohem begins in India, of all places, when Chelsea and Adam James decided to move abroad for the birth of their twins. He was in between jobs, and she was an artist looking for inspiration; a pilgrimage to the land of spice and color made sense. “Screw the king!” Chelsea exclaims with a soft laugh.
And with a familiarity for color, pattern and texture,
It’s a mantra that’s been whispered throughout their
textiles seemed like a logical first step.
journey. Why wait for permission? Better to see how far you can take it. “Who cares if people like it,” she
First, Chelsea would conceptualize the designs on
says, smiling. Following heart and intuition has been at
paper. Next, she’d take the drawings to the artisan
the center of Bohem since the beginning.
to make blocks. Once they were completed, Chelsea would put all the bocks on the floor and take pictures,
In the small office on the second floor of their
photocopying each design. Next she’d cut up the
warehouse-sized shop on State street. Adam and
photocopies and manually piece together the pattern,
Chelsea reflect on the genesis of Bohem. Today it’s a
stapling the paper together. She’d photograph the
brick and mortar store, filled to the brim with lovely
final pattern, get color chips, and head to the printers
textiles, dishware, apparel and jewelry; some from
where they’d start mixing colors. Once everything
their unique brand, others are bought from artisans
was just right, they’d start printing the prototypes,
around the world (Morocco, Turkey and India, to name
correcting with each version until it was just right.
a few). In the backroom, piles of colorful rugs wait to be catalogued, while wooden sculptures stand silently,
In the beginning it was just scarves, but quickly it
ready for the front of shop.
evolved to bedding covered in patterns inspired by the traditional motifs that the James’ encountered in India.
But in the beginning, it was just the two of them - in
Without any formal contacts, they worked directly
Jaipur, India - with a desire to create. A formally trained
with local artists, discovering traditional techniques
painter, Chelsea wanted to try her hand at design, but
that were woven into their collection, each piece hand
lacked the technical know-how needed to manipulate
crafted.
traditional graphic design programs. Jaipur proved to be fertile ground for a more inventive analogue approach.
They put their limited run of initial products online, and within a week Anthropologie had reached out about selling Chelsea’s designs in their stories. Trade shows followed, and before long, their products were sold in hundreds of small boutiques around the U.S. The next logical step was brick and mortar. Today, those original artists are still making their textiles, by hand, before shipping them off to Salt Lake City. And as Bohem has grown, so has their community of collaborators in India. Some of the traditional handicraft that the James’ seek out is time honored, yet disappearing as modernity changes India’s artistic landscape. In these cases, their hope is to breathe new life into these older traditions, like marble painting, which is what they use for Bohem’s eponymous shop tote. “We’ve created great relationships with the artists; it’s rewarding to see how this business can impact their lives,” reflects Adam
and her own aesthetic. Their product collection now ranges from scarves & bedding to leather goods & jewelry, each coming from
“I don’t think about what’s going to sell, I think about
a place of authentic interest and passion. If they feel
what I want and what I want to design. Always stick
inspired to design furniture (which they have), they’ll
with you heart,” says Chelsea. “With painting, I’d paint
find a way to execute their vision. Chelsea’s twin sister
the things that I thought people would like. The second
needed a camera strap, and now you can find beautiful
I stopped, and started painting what I wanted, that’s
embroidered versions in the shop.
when success came.”
“I remember when Chelsea was pregnant and nesting,
“Screw the king.”
wanting to design things like kids’ bedding and kids’ stuff,” Adam says, laughing.
There is nothing quite like Bohem in Salt Lake City— something the James’ realized early on. As smaller
“I wanted to make things that we needed, like bedding
boutiques and cafes began to sprout up around the
and teethers. Or I’d say ‘oh, I want a bassinet!’ so I
city, the James’ knew that they wanted to contribute
made a bassinet,” says Chelsea. “We design things from
to the movement. For Chelsea and Adam, it’s to
where our hearts are.”
bring both an international flair to downtown and to support local artists. They know first hand how difficult
Currently, textiles still have a strong hold on their
it is to make a living as a full time creative. Giving back
hearts. There are no signs of stopping when it comes
to that community is important to them both.
to blankets, throws, rugs and clothes – mainly because this is where Chelsea can most directly marry her
The mountains, the outdoors, and the landscape –
passions of painting and design.
Bohem is rooted in Salt Lake City and the home that the James’ have built; yet for Chelsea and Adam, their
Every year the James’ spend a few weeks in Jaipur
hearts are tethered to Jaipur. Step into their shop, and
concepting, designing, and perfecting prototypes for
you’ll see: here in the Wasatch Mountains, India and
their newest collection of products. It’s a moment to
Utah are closer than you think. d
soak in the country that inspired those first pieces four years ago. This year, Chelsea started designing jewelry, experimenting with different shapes inspired by India
Holly Addi article by Kit Warchol | photos by Erin Wyness
If you’re at all familiar with Utah, you know the state embodies a unique brand of majestic beauty. From the countless ski resorts and canyons (the state license plate reads “The Greatest Snow on Earth”) to Southern Utah’s Red Rock country, the location of some of the most renowned National Parks, it’s little surprise then that the state provides an ideal backdrop for artists seeking inspiration. Its capitol, Salt Lake City, has also become an artists’ enclave of sorts, attracting talented painters, ceramicists, and printmakers (among countless others) who find appeal in its idyllic location, but also the ample studio space and tight-knit creative community. Holly Addi is one such artist, creative, and business owner. Born in Salt Lake City, she’s built her own kind of inspiring environment—one that allows her the space to experiment with various mediums and also business plans. From her first project, a high-end floral studio called Artichokes & Co. to her latest, Arte Haus Collectif, Addi has experimented in countless areas of art and design. And she credits her deep roots in Salt Lake City for that. Arte Haus Collectif is difficult to define, and that’s intentional. One way to describe it is as multi-hyphenate: a hybrid boutique/art studio/gathering place that challenges traditional ideas of what a gallery should look like but also a store and workspace. Perhaps the best definition of Arte Haus is also the simplest: it’s Addi’s own. It’s the perfect home base for an artist and her surrounding community. And it’s a perfect example of the way that Salt Lake City has adapted to a new generation of creatives with their ideas and experiments. YOU WERE BORN IN SALT LAKE CITY AND HAVE LIVED HERE YOUR WHOLE LIFE. WHAT’S KEPT YOU HERE?
I’ve found that Salt Lake is a great place to plant your roots. The quality of life is affordable, the environment is clean. I have three daughters and raising them here has been great. I am a firm believer that when your roots are solid, you can explore and take your wanderlust approach anywhere—and then you can always return back home.
YOU STUDIED ART, BUT ALSO PSYCHOLOGY AND BEHAVIORAL SCIENCE. IS THERE AN OVERLAP FOR YOU BETWEEN THOSE SUBJECTS? HOW DO THOSE INTERESTS INFLUENCE YOUR ART?
I’ve been an artist since childhood. When I was young, I was into writing, poetry, theatre, acting, design, costumes, fashion, you name it. As a child, I remember waiting for the Sunday paper to be delivered so I could devour the Arts section. I couldn’t wait to see the latest art news, play auditions, or exhibits. And I always had an opinion [about them]— I think my parents kept wondering where I had come from. I studied psychology because I think it is fascinating, but it’s also the backbone of the artist’s mind. Do you know any artist that isn’t a little bit crazy? It’s kind of a necessity in this field. I think it is really important as an artist to nurture your talent and not let anyone turn that light off. Art takes digging deep, and quality takes time. WHAT GOT YOU INTO PAINTING SPECIFICALLY?
I’ve always been captivated by good design and love working with color, but it took me awhile to land on painting. I began painting when I was in high school, but it wasn’t until my late twenties that I sold my first piece. Shortly after I graduated at the age of 22, I opened a high-end floral studio and boutique named Artichokes & Co., which focused on the art and composition of floral arrangements and gift design. I started painting only when I had time off, for serenity on weekends.
Artichokes was a huge success, and I owned it for 15 years. At one point, I decided to take expand the business by starting a catalog company that offered our designs to the entire U.S. It was a few years before I realized I had swayed from my element. I started yearning for something more in my career. The idea of big business and pumping out fast-paced concepts as the Creative Director, all based around money...I felt like my soul was being stolen. It was at that point that I decided to get back to my roots and paint full-time. For me, it was a wake up call. I was determined to master my own style and create something lasting. Floral artistry doesn’t last; I wanted my art to last for years to come. WHAT ARE YOU TRYING TO COMMUNICATE WITH YOUR WORK?
My works are based on life’s imperfections and how they all relate back to beauty. Life is so imperfect, but there is a magical wonder about how it all comes together: the good, the bad, the evil, the weeds, the flowers, all of it. [I describe] my style as ‘composition of imperfectionism.” [My work] embraces the wonder, rather than questions it. HOW DOES SALT LAKE CITY INFLUENCE YOUR WORK AND CREATIVITY?
Salt Lake has so many beautiful places. From the mountains to the salted sands, lakes, and even urban downtown, I am constantly inspired. I live downtown, where there is diversity just like there is in New York City. But the way of life is so much calmer, and you can jump in your car and be anywhere you want in less than 30 minutes. Salt Lake has so many amazing talented artists. From graffiti art to fine western art to even the artistic and novel eateries and coffee shops, there’s this definite hunger for something other than the ordinary around here. The city as a whole is very involved with the arts. We have amazing outdoor concerts in the summer, gallery strolls, great music venues and theatres. This city is just at the brink of growing as well, which will bring even more art and creativity here. TELL US ABOUT ARTE HAUS COLLECTIF
Arte Haus Collectif was my way of merging my love for design and great things with a place for my art. I teamed up with Heidi Jube who has a candle line, Monokle Collection, to create a shop together. [We decided Art Haus] would be a beautiful, curated collection of art and objects for your home, things that you can’t find elsewhere.
Heidi sells her candles exclusively at Arte Haus. Our goal is to continue curating and to grow the gallery organically. WHAT’S THE MOST EXCITING PROJECT YOU’VE WORKED ON SO FAR?
I’m beginning work on my collection that I will be exhibiting in Paris in Fall 2017, and I couldn’t be more excited! WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE THING ABOUT SALT LAKE?
Salt Lake has the most beautiful fall.. We have so many canyons and mountains. When the leaves change and reach their peak, the colors are glorious auburns, golds, and vibrant reds. It is truly breathtaking. WHAT DOES A TYPICAL SATURDAY LOOK LIKE FOR YOU? WHAT DO YOU DO AND WHERE DO YOU GO AROUND TOWN?
Saturdays, I am usually painting in my studio but will jaunt out for coffee, usually to Millcreek Roasting Company. It’s downtown and really laidback. They roast their own coffee without being pretentious—just great coffee. And I love going to Salt Lake’s newest & best restaurant (in my opinion), Handle. Amazing food. WHAT’S NEXT FOR YOU AND YOUR WORK?
There’s always something in the works, but for right now, I’m just looking forward to my exhibit abroad, continuing to facilitate my passion for art—and this crazy journey. d
ST YLISH STREETS photo essay by Matthew Windsor
photo by Greg Rakozy
DAY TRIP: PARK CIT Y Park City: home to world class skiing & a world class film festival. But if you talk to the locals, you’ll soon discover that those only scratch the surface when it comes to this close-knit community. Nestled in the mountains 45 minutes east of Salt Lake City, it’s worth a visit for the views alone.
PARK CITY BREWERY What started as a side hobby in a garage is now a medium-scale craft brewery, close to all the outdoor action. Sit back and enjoy a flight of their finest, served on custom made DirtyBird skis (see page 60). In compliance with Utah alcohol regulation, their beers on draft are 4% ABV or lower, making it the perfect Saturday afternoon destination.
COPPER MOOSE FARMS Operating a farm at an altitude of 7,000+ would be intimidating to most, but not to Copper Moose Farm’s manager, Daisy Fair. Committed to growing quality, sustainable produce, the farm’s bounty is only available to their CSA (which caps out at 100 families) – but if you’re in the area on a warm summer day, stop by their farmer’s stand. Situated the edge of the property, you’ll find a mix of seasonal produce and local goods, like Ritual Chocolate! Next to the bike path, it makes for the perfect lunch break after a morning riding around the mountains.
Wonderfilled Adventure Club How we explored this volume’s featured city.
Vive Juicery
WHAT WE DRANK Rooibos Tea Lattes at ROSE EST Craft cocktails at BAR X Cold-pressed juices from VIVE JUICERY (our favorite was La Vallarta)
WHAT WE ATE Chilaquiles at NO WORRIES CAFE & GRILL Mediterranean food at CEDARS OF LEBANON Mushroom pizza at STONE GROUND
WHAT WE DISCOVERED Soul-moving music from the infamous TABERNACLE ORGAN Amazing views from the LIVING ROOM TRAIL
Pastries at Rose EST
CITY GUIDE The Perfect Day CENTERED CITY 926 E 900 South PUBLIK KITCHEN 931 E 900 South RED IGUANA 736 W North Temple UNDER CURRENT 270 300 E
Just Add Zest ZEST KITCHEN & BAR 275 200 W
Avenues Bistro on Third AVENUES BISTRO ON THIRD 564 3rd Ave
Freshly Brewed PUBLIK COFFEE ROASTERS 975 S W Temple
So Refreshing, So Tasty, Sodalicious SODALICIOUS 30 300 N, Provo
Faith in the City CATHEDRAL OF THE MADELEINE 331 E South Temple SAINT MARK’S LABYRINTH 231 E 100 South MAGDALENE’S COFFEE GROTTO 836 E 3300 South MINERAL AND MATTER 351 Pierpont Ave, #1B BODEGA 331 Main St
Surf’s Up SKULLCRACKERS Boards>
Beautiful Bohem BOHEM 623 State St
Holly Addi ARTE HAUS COLLECTIF 352 E 900 South
Photo by Kelley Engelbrecht
MATSUMOTO, JAPAN sis·ter cit·y (noun): A city that is linked to another to promote peace through mutual respect, understanding, and cooperation, one individual, one community at a time When anyone says they’re traveling to Matsumoto, Japan, you wouldn’t typically expect someone to say “I’m here for the food.” Located in the Nagano prefecture of Japan northwest of Tokyo, it’s, close to Nagano (host of the 1998 Winter Olympics), and is home to Japan’s oldest original castle, scenic Norikura park and legendary onsens or hot springs.,I’m here, however, for one of the most famous soba noodle restaurants in the world: Kobayashi-Soba. Soba (buckwheat) noodles are similar in appearance to spaghetti noodles, but are nutty and delicate depending on how much buckwheat is added to the dough. Thanks to the pristine waters and alpine soil of Nagano, Matsumoto is famed for both soba and wasabi, which can only grow in the clearest of waters. What most Americans eat at home are packaged commercial noodles and imitation wasabi – real soba varies in technique and application and true wasabi is rare.That green lovely heat served everywhere, except the finest Japanese restaurants, is green dye and horseradish. Delicious and satisfying enough, I wanted to see what drew people from all over the world to a 100year old hole in the wall with no sign. I sampled both cold and hot soba. Zaru soba is cold and served on a bamboo slotted plate. You dip your noodles into the broth just before eating them. It comes with tsuyu, a typical condiment made with soy sauce, mirin, sugar, stock and nori added to taste. You can add to the tsuyu as you like, usually local radishes, scallions and, here in Matsumoto, whole wasabi. My host/server presented me with a grater so that i could have the experience (if I wished) to grate my own in my tsuyu. It was mild and much less spicy than it’s green horseradish cousin, and to be honest, tasted other-wordly. Maybe it’s due to the soil, the hot springs or the climate, but I still have never had anything quite like it. Hot soba, or nanban soba is served in a broth with leeks. It also usually has poultry added to it as well (think of a hearty chicken soup of sorts). I chose kamo, or duck nanban soba. As I slurped politely and quickly through both dishes, I was presented with a beautiful open clay teapot filled with steaming, cloudy liquid. My host explained that it was sobayu, the water the noodles had been prepared in. It was to be added to my tsuyu and for me to drink, as one might drink tea.. It was earthy, savory and comforting. I paid the extremely reasonable bill, bowed way too many times as I reverted back to the worst combination of Japanese and English to gush “thank you” and arigato over and over for such an incredible meal. I rushed back to my curious family at the castle, full of noodles, broth and joy for the once-in-a-lifetime meal in Matsumoto that I will always remember fondly. d Maureen Yoshizaki is a Columbus-based food writer and traveler. Her stories cover international food & culinary adventures of all kinds.
photo by Greg Rakozy