WINE WORKS
Take Israeli Wine Out of the Liquor Store Ghetto By: Juda Engelmayer
Having become somewhat of a wine enthusiast over the years, I have tasted many fine wines from all over the world and toured wineries in the United States and abroad in pursuit of a recreational oenophile’s whimsy. Over the past twenty years or so, the market for kosher wines – don’t laugh – has grown, as post-Baby Boomers acquired money and taste and began seeking finer alternatives to the old-style, syrupy-sweet Malaga and Concord Grape selections of Kedem and Manischewitz. My late step-mother had a favorite story to tell. She went to a local liquor emporium known for its kosher wines, and asked for two gallon-sized bottles of ritual (Kiddush) wine, one Malaga and one Concord. The owner pulled her over to the side and said, in a low voice, “You know, you don’t need to drink that anymore. We have a large selection of really good kosher wines.” “I know,” she said, with a twinge of regret, “but my husband loves this stuff.” That was over fifteen years ago, and the “large” selection is now a huge one. In a sense, kosher wines have become ultra-westernized, and along with the fine cars, nice homes, single malt Scotches, boutique Bourbons and golf outings, kosher Baby Boomers now collect fine wines. “Fine” and “kosher” used to be contradictory terms when it comes to wine, but with the rise of so many wonderful vineyards in Israel, the race to produce the best kosher wines soon expanded to Spain, Australia, France, Italy, Chile, Argentina, Australia, New York, California, and every other major region where non-kosher wines are made. Grapes, like all foods that grow from the soil, are inherently permissible foods, as is the alcohol produced during fermentation. Any wine can be ‘kosher’, and some kosher consumers accept that they are. A biblical prohibition against ‘pagan wine’ ceased to be a problem in the first millennium, according to the rabbinic literature of the period, but social contact with non-Jews was an issue, so the ban on ‘non-kosher’ wines continued. ‘Cooked wine,’on the other hand, was permissible, even during social contact with non-Jews. Thus, ‘mevushal’ (cooked) wines became the standard until only recently. The reason behind this is subject to debate, and delving into that debate here is beyond the scope of this article. Besides, it would force me to examine why I can do tequila shots in a dark bar with my non-Jewish friends, but sitting down with them for a sedate dinner with wine is frowned upon. Needless to say, the cooking process sounds as if it will certainly make any wine taste “off” compared to typical non-mevushal wines. Yet, two important phenomena have occurred in the past two decades: flash pasteurizing, which maintains the essence of the flavor and qualities while superheating the wine, and the growth of wineries in Israel that are controlled and staffed by Orthodox Jews. These developments have allowed for an increased production of high quality, non-mevushal wines. I am good friends with José de Meirelles, the owner of and inspiration for the kosher New York bistro, Le Marais. He is not only a Master Chef, but also a wine connoisseur who enjoys traveling around in search of the best. At his restaurant, he has some of the very best mevushal wines (they must be
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WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL
mevushal, because kosher certification agencies insist on it). In recent years, he has come to know Israeli and Spanish wines of the kosher variety, and now buys them for his own home. He once believed that kosher meat could not taste as good as the non-kosher equivalents he served at Le Marais’ sister eatery, Les Halles, the home of chef Anthony Bourdain. José perfected the aging process for Le Marais, and his food now ranks among the best eateries in its class. He also remembers a time when kosher wine was both undrinkable and unthinkable for non-Jews, but has come to greatly respect the wines made today. This contributes to his philosophy about wine marketing. When you go to most liquor stores that carry kosher wines the kosher wine is sectioned off, and few real wine lovers will pause in the kosher section. What a grand idea it would be for Israel’s wineries — or any kosher winery for that matter — to be displayed in the regional sections alongside their non-kosher peers. This is where my public relations and marketing background comes into play, alongside my enthusiasm for wines. Kosher wineries now make a bulk of their revenues from Jewish imbibers, particularly kosher consumers who enjoy good wines. That Jews are not big drinkers is a misconception, however the number of Jews who drink only kosher wines is limited, and that limits market share. Consumers who want to see kosher wine sales really soar and want to support Israel on a larger scale should work on a campaign to lessen the emphasis on kosher and increase the awareness of quality and the regions where these wines are made. There are few Israel-specific sections in wine stores across the United States, yet there are sections for most every other region where wine is made. Almost without exception, Israeli wines are found only among the kosher wines, and the kosher wines from every other country are relegated to that small section as well. Take that section away and feature Israel as a wine-producing nation unto itself among the other wine regions. Kosher wines should be grouped together within their respective regions, i.e. kosher Italian wines together, French, Spanish, and so on. This tactic could open consumers’ eyes not only to the myriad of choices available for kosher wines, but also make them aware of Israel’s rightful place in the world of quality wine. Kosher wineries such as Tura, Castel, and Recanati from Israel, Barons de Rothschild from France, and Elvi Wines and Celler de Capçanes from Spain, to name a few, are perfect for the tables and cellars of both wine connoisseurs and high-end restaurants. There is no reason for these delicious wines to be collecting dust in the ghettos of the liquor store.
Spring 2013