Australia Central
June/July 2015
The Itinerary Lark Quarry Dinosaur Trackways The Plenty Highway Eastern MacDonnell Ranges Festival of the Moon Rainbow Valley Western MacDonnell Ranges Uluru - Kata Tjuta Kings Canyon Lasseters Camel Cup Finke Gorge
Australia Central
Winter 2015
Itinerary at a glance #1 (subject to change as necessary) 1. Toowoomba to Tambo (Toowoomba 125 km) _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 737 km 2. Tambo to Lochern NP _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 400 km 3. Lochern NP to Diamantina _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 264 km 4. Diamantina to Tobermorey_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 480 km 5. Tobermorey to Harts Range _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 348 km 6. Harts Range to Trephina Gorge _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 216 km 7. Trephina Gorge_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ *spare day* 8. Trephina Gorge to Rainbow Valley _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 220 km 9. Rainbow Valley to Uluru-Kata Tjuta _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 493 km 10. Uluru-Kata Tjuta _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ *spare day* 11. Uluru-Kata Tjuta to Kings Canyon _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 308 km 12. Kings Canyon_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ *spare day* 13. Kings Canyon_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ *spare day* Trip route
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14. Kings Canyon to Palm Valley_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 203 km 15. Palm Valley to Alice Springs _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 129 km 16. Alice Springs (Balloon flight, camel ride, Simpsons Gap) _ *spare day* 17. Alice Springs to Hermannsburg (Camel Cup day) _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 127 km 18. Hermannsburg to Redbank Gorge _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 99 km 19. Redbank Gorge to Ormiston Gorge _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 30 km 20. Ormiston Gorge to Ellery Creek Big Hole_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 60 km 21. Ellery Creek Big hole to Wauchope (via Standley Chasm) _ _ _ 491 km 22. Wauchope to Mt Isa _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 778 km 23. Mt Isa to Longreach _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 651 km 24. Longreach to Roma _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 700 km 25. Roma to Brisbane _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 463 km
Join us for a 2015
WinterEscape Just a few of the sights
along the way. Kings Canyon, Ormiston Gorge and Chambers Pillar.
It has to be just about time for a major trip I reckon. Twenty-something years ago I visited the Red Centre and saw way too little of it. So I’m gonna go back and take the family with me. The trek will be a 4WD tag-along for 25 days. Come and join us if you like. You will need a 4WD and your sense of adventure. Check out the itinerary and consider it.
Part 1 – Dinosaur Trails Step back in time about 95 million years and put yourself in the shoes of a Coelursaur, running as fast as his little chicken legs can take him to escape the giant meat-eating dinosaur bearing down on him. Lark Quarry is the place where over 3,300 dinosaur tracks mark the site of the only known dinosaur stampede on the planet. The stampede was recorded in the mud, preserved by the natural environment and is now protected and accessible to visitors. Part 2 – The Outback Way Travel the Donahue and Plenty Highways; part of Australia’s Longest Shortcut through to Alice Springs. Don’t be misled by the term ‘highways’ though. The Donahue and Plenty are unsealed, rarely graded and not frequented by travellers. They can be rough with sharp rocks lurking in patches of bulldust. This part of the trip however travels through beautifully remote country that epitomises the Australian outback. The earth is red, red; the skies blue as blue can be and the stars from horizon to horizon are incredible. Part 3 – A Little Aussie Gem The flat terrain of the Plenty Highway changes dramatically as Harts Range rises from the countryside. Harts Range and the Eastern MacDonell Ranges are as spectacular as the Western MacDonell Ranges but aren’t frequented like the Macs to the west. This area really is a hidden gem. And speaking of gems, this is a fossicker’s paradise. Garnets, rose quartz, zircons and amethyst are some of the treasures that can be found. Part 4 – The Rainbow and The Moon Hmm! What should happen when visiting Rainbow Valley on the full moon? Have a Retro ‘60s Hippy Party of course. Sip on a Tequila Sunrise or a Mint Julep as the sun sets and the moon rises over Rainbow Valley. Feast on fondue, devilled eggs and pigs in blankets (with a campfire twist). Don’t forget to dress for the occasion.
Part 5 – Uluru / Kata Tjuta It’s known as the accessible outback and ain’t that the case? Quite possibly, the most iconic image of Australia this area will be bustling with visitors from all over the globe. It will lack the seclusion we will experience in other parts of the trip but let’s face it – we must do it. We will spend a couple of days watching the sunset and (for those who are keen) sunrise at The Rock. Get your cameras ready to capture the array of colour the diminishing light reflected off the monolith. And as an added bonus this part of the trip has been planned during the time of the month when the moon is quite full in the sky. Part 6 – The Alice There will be loads of opportunity to explore Alice Springs. You can visit the Desert Parks centre with it’s fabulous interpretive displays. Take an early morning balloon flight, or hire a pushy and ride into the Western Macs. Perhaps take a sunset camel ride. And speaking of Camels, we will be in town for the quirky Lasseters Camel Cup. They may have a reputation as dedicated ‘ships of the desert’, but they are certainly not short on personality. Racing them can prove a nightmare for riders and handlers but fantastic viewing for spectators. Entertainment is guaranteed! Part 7 – Just Gorgeous Travel through the gorge country of the Western Macs. You’ve heard all the names but let me rattle off a few anyway – Simpsons Gap, Stanley Chasm, Ormiston Gorge, Palm Valley and to top it off we will take the run into the stunning Finke Gorge. Part 8 – Alice Springs to Brisbane 2979 km on sealed roads. We will take the Stuart Highway north to Three Ways, the Barkley Highway east to Mt Isa and onto Cloncurry. Home via the Landsborough and Warrego Highways. It will be go, go, go but we will still get a chance to squeeze in some sights along the way such as The Devils Marbles. Central Australia Winter 2015 | Page 3
Itinerary The
Day 1: Thursday 25 June 2015 Toowoomba to Tambo Tambo Mill Motel
Bustard at Lochern National Park
Distance: 737 km Road conditions: 737 km sealed main highway Start: 7.30am Travelling time: 8.5 hours Facilities and supplies: Fuel and supermarket Toowoomba Accommodation: Tambo Mill Motel and Caravan Park www.tambomill.com.au How will the day unfold? A day of travelling. It’s a long way so today is about putting the ks behind us. Toowoomba to Chinchilla 166 kms (2 hours) Morning tea stop (depart 9.50 am) Chinchilla to Roma 187 (2 hours) Lunch stop (depart 12.30 pm) Roma to Morven 177 kms (2 hours) Afternoon tea (depart 2.50 pm) Morven to Tambo 207 km (2.5 hours) (arrive 5.30ish pm) Things to see and do: • Dinner at Royal Carrangarra Hotel
Day 2: Friday 26 June 2015 Tambo to Lochern National Park
Thomson River Lochern National Park
Distance: 400 km Road conditions: 224 km sealed, 176 km unsealed Start: 9.00am Travelling time (without breaks): 5.5 hours Accommodation: Bush camping www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/lochern Facilities and supplies: None (Last fuel Isisford - Next fuel Boulia - 703 kms. Will need to carry fuel) How will the day unfold? Another day of travelling but we will get off the beaten track today. Tambo to Isisford 224 km (3 hours) Lunch stop (depart 1.00 pm) Isisford to Lochern National Park 176 km (2.5 hours) (arrive 3.30ish pm) Things to see and do: • Remote bush camping on the Thomson River
Day 3: Saturday 27 June 2015 Lochern National Park to Old Cork Lark Quarry Conservation Park
Lark Quarry Dinosaur Stampede
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Distance: 285 km Road conditions: 285 unsealed Start: 8.00am Travelling time: 5 hours Accommodation: Bush camping Facilities and supplies: None How will the day unfold? A more leisurely day of travel, taking time out for a visit to the site of the amazing dinosaur stampede at Lark Quarry. Lochern to Lark Quarry 220 km (3.5 hours incl. morning tea) (depart Lark Quarry 2 pm) Lark Quarry to Old Cork 65 km (1.5 hours) (arrive 3.30ish pm) Things to see and do: • Lark Quarry Dinosaur Trackways www.dinosaurtrackways.com.au • Diamantina River • Old Cork Historic Homestead Ruins
Lark Quarry Dinosaur Trackways The Dinosaur Trackways at Lark Quarry Conservation Park, is where over 3,300 dinosaur tracks mark the site of the only known dinosaur stampede on the planet. Scientists have pieced together a dramatic tale of hunter and hunted from the footprints left behind. About 95 million years ago, a herd of over three hundred dinosaurs, some as small as chickens (called Coelursaurs) and some about the size of an emus (called Ornithopods) were drinking on the muddy shore of a lake. The herd panicked and started a mad dash to escape when a large meat-eating dinosaur appeared close by. The stampede was recorded in the mud, preserved by the natural environment, and immortalised in stone. Now it’s protected inside a modern building and this amazing site is accessible to visitors. The starkly beautiful red earth and spinifexstudded landscape is a dramatic contrast to the moist green world that existed at the time of the dinosaurs.
Day 4: Sunday 28 June 2015 Old Cork to Tobermoray Station
Ruin near Cork Station
Diamantina River near Cork
Distance: 491 km Road conditions: 146 sealed, 345 unsealed Start: 8.00am Accommodation: Bush camping Travelling time: 7 hours Facilities and supplies: Fuel, supplies and shower facilities at Boulia. Fuel and basic supplies only at Tobermoray. (To be confirmed). How will the day unfold? We have a brief interlude with civilisation today. It will be a chance to stock up on essentials and perhaps even squeeze in a welcome hot shower. Old Cork to Boulia 242 km (3.5 hours) Lunch stop (depart 1.00 pm) Boulia to Tobermoray 249 km (3.5 hours) (arrive 4.30ish pm) Things to see and do: • Channel Country • Lilleyvale Hills and Cawnpore Lookout • Min Min Hotel site and grave (the site of the Min Min lights sightings) • Hamilton Hotel Ruins • Lunch at Cooridgea Watering Hole Restaurant, Australian Hotel-motel, Boulia • Donahue Highway
Min Min Light Is the name given to an unusual light phenomenon that has been reported numerous times in eastern Australia. The name “Min Min” derives from the small settlement of Min Min, located between the outback towns of Boulia and Winton, where the light was discovered by a stockman in 1918. Donahue / Plenty Highways An alternative and more direct route from Qld to Alice Springs. The Qld section from Boulia to the NT border is the Donahue Highway and from the border to the Sturt Highway it is the Plenty Highway. Although named highways these roads are unsealed and can be rough. The roads are part of The Outback Way (Australia’s Longest Shortcut) from Winton, Qld to Laverton, WA. Plenty Highway NT
Eastern
MacDonell Ranges
The Eastern MacDonnell Ranges extend east of Alice Springs for approximately 200 km, and are every bit as picturesque as the better known West MacDonnell Ranges. We will spend spend a couple of nights exploring the gorges east of The Alice. Trephina Gorge is noted for its sheer quartzite cliffs and broad, river red gum lined, sandy watercourses where 2 gorges dissect the range. Wildlife is abundant in the area, including plenty of eagles, matching the valley’s name of the Valley of the Eagles.
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Itinerary The
Day 5: Monday 29 June 2015 Tobermoray Station to Harts Range
Jervois Homestead
Harts Range Scenery
Distance: 364 km Road conditions: 364 unsealed Start: 9.00am Travelling time: 6 hours Accommodation: Bush camping at Spotted Tiger Camping Ground Facilities: Fuel and basic supplies Atitjere Community Store, Harts Range. (To be confirmed) How will the day unfold? Today we will tackle the first leg of the Plenty Highway. There will only be 364 kilometres to cover today but it will be all unsealed and conservatively, we will average approximately 60-70km p/h on these roads. Things to see and do: • Jervois • Fossick for gem stones • Camp within the beautiful Harts Range
Harts Range Gemstones Central Harts Range and Harts Range West have Garnet Deposits; these deposits are scattered throughout the ranges. A number of other gemstones and minerals can also be found
at these sites; Muscorite, Smokey Quartz, Biotite, Rose Quartz, Aquamarine, Clear Quartz to name a few. A Northern Territory fossickers license is required.
Day 6: Tuesday 30 June 2015 Harts Range to Trephina Gorge (via Cattlewater Pass) Distance: 185 km Road conditions: 6 sealed, 179 unsealed Start: 10.00 am Travelling time: 4 hours Accommodation: Bush camping Facilities and supplies: None How will the day unfold? Driving today will be a treat on the visual senses so we won’t be doing this one in a rush. The highlight will be driving through the Harts Range via Cattlewater Pass. It may be a bit sandy in places but shouldn’t pose too much of a problem. The big finale will be Trephina Gorge,. We will kick back and spend two nights here. Things to see and do: • Old Ambalindum Homestead • Arltunga Historical Reserve Download NT Parks and Wildlife info sheet • Trephina Gorge
Arltunga Historical Reserve Arltunga was officially central Australia’s first town, born out of a gold rush after alluvial gold was discovered in a dry creekbed in 1887. Page 8 | Winter 2015 Central Australia
Along Cattlewater Pass
Arltunga Historical Reserve
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Day 7: Wednesday 1 July 2015 Trephina Gorge *spare day* Accommodation: Bush camping Facilities and supplies: None How will the day unfold? Today the choice is yours. Hang around the Gorge, lulling about in the cool waters of Trephina Gorge and exploring the area on foot. Or… if you aren’t sick of the car yet, explore further afield the surrounding gorges and Eastern MacDonnell Ranges. *Optional* Travelling: • 74 km (return trip) to N’Dhala Gorge (Approx 22 km of medium grade 4WDing including several Ross River crossings • 150 km (return trip) to Ruby Gap (Approx. 40 km of high clearance medium grade 4WDing) To take in both N’Dhala Gorge and Ruby Gap is approx 194km return trip and will be a full day excursion. (Including stops 9.00am to 3.00pm). It will also be possible to join in on just one of these treks, either morning (N’Dhala) 9.00am to 11.00am or afternoon (Ruby Gap) 11.00am to 3.00pm. Things to see and do: • Trephina Gorge Download NT Parks and Wildlife info sheet • Trephina Gorge walking tracks • Ross River Homestead • N’Dhala Gorge Download NT Parks and Wildlife info sheet • Ruby Gap Download NT Parks and Wildlife info sheet
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Creek Crossing on the road to N’Dhala Gorge
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East MacDonnell Ranges The Eastern MacDonnell Ranges do not experience quite the same visitor numbers as the Western Macs, but they contain nonetheless some wonderful gorges, 4X4 trails, camping areas and heritage areas. As well as stunning scenery every bit as beautiful as the Wesertn Macs, it also offers the opportunity to explore both European and Aboriginal heritage - from the ruins are Arltunge - the oldest town in Central Australia, to the ancient petroglyphs at N’Dhala Gorge.
The tracks of Ruby Gap
Trephina Gorge is arguably one of the nicest places in the area. It is noted for its sheer quartzite cliffs and River Red Gum lined watercourses. Two gorges dissect the range: Trephina, with its wide views and sandy creekbed, and John Hayes Rock Hole with steep, narrow rock walls. Water holes in this area attract much wildlife, including a diverse range of birds. From Trephina Gorge there are a number of short walking tracks.
N’Dhala Gorge
N’Dhala Gorge contains thousands of rock carvings (petroglyphs). These are relics of the art and stories of the Eastern Arrernte people. This Gorge is a cultural treasure house, with over 5,900 individual petroglyphs, several art sites, shelter areas and other sites of cultural significance. A well marked walk leads into the gorge with interpretive signs into some of the petroglyphs. Ruby Gap is an incredibly beautiful remote gorge with challenging four wheel driving, spectacular walks and gemstone fossicking. In the beginning the stones discovered in the area were thought to be rubies but it was found that they were merely high grade garnets and not nearly as valuable as rubies. Today Ruby Gap retains its remoteness, providing some excellent opportunities for viewing Central Australia’s scenic rugged terrain.
Ruby Gap
Central Australia Winter 2015 | Page 9
Festival Moon of the
Join in the festivities as the sun and the full moon set simultaneously. Then into the evening enjoy a communal feast around the campfire.
Rainbow Valley
Itinerary The
Day 8: Thursday 2 July 2015 Trephina Gorge to Rainbow Valley Distance: 216 kilometres Road conditions: 132 sealed, 84 unsealed Start: 9.00 am Travelling Time: 3.5 hrs Accommodation: Bush camping Facilities: Shower, fuel, supermarket, washing facilities at Alice Springs. How will the day unfold? A day of leisurely travel with loads to see along the way. As we head for Alice Springs from Trephina we will take a look at some of the more accessible Eastern Macs. It will just be a brief visit to the Alice, a chance to catch up on some washing, grab a shower and to stock up on supplies. From the Alice we will travel through Owen Springs Reserve and then onto Rainbow Valley. Things to see and do: • Corroboree Rock Download NT Parks and Wildlife info sheet • Emily and Jessie Gap Download NT Parks and Wildlife info sheet • Ilparpa Swamp Wildlife Protected Area • Owen Springs Reserve • Rainbow Valley (Festival of the moon evening)
Hugh River, Owen Springs Reserve
Corroborree Rock and surrounds
Emily Gap
Rainbow Valley
Day 9: Friday 3 July 2015 Rainbow Valley to Uluru / Kata-Tjuta Distance: 394 kilometres Road conditions: 260 sealed, 134 unsealed Start: 9.00 am Travelling Time: 5.5 hrs Accommodation: Self contained apartment (TBA on detail and choice) Facilities: Fuel at Stuarts Well Roadhouse How will the day unfold? We need to cover quite a few ks today but it won’t be lacking in interesting sites along the way. We will take the lesser travelled route (unsealed) along Ernest Giles Road. Things to see and do: • Henbury Meteorite Craters Download NT Parks and Wildlife info sheet • Palmer River • Mt Connor
Henbury Meteorite Craters
Mt Connor
Recommended sites for Uluru / Kata-Tjutu: www.parksaustralia.gov.au/uluru/ www.environment.gov.au/topics/national-parks/uluru-kata-tjuta-national-park
Uluru Kata-Tjuta walks Ranger Guided Walk (1.5 hours) A Ranger will guide you along a shaded track of the Mala Walk, stopping to discuss Tjukurpa (Aboriginal law) stories associated with Mala ancestors, joint management, rock art, traditional Anangu lifestyle, history and the environment. Conducted daily from the base of Uluru. It starts at 10:00am from May to September. Self - Guided Walks Mutitjulu Walk - Southern side of Uluru (1km / 45mins return) This track leads to a special waterhole, which is the home of Wanampi, an ancestral watersnake. For centuries Mutitjulu was an important campsite for Anangu at Uluru. Their modern community in the Park is named after the area. On this walk you will learn about Kuniya Tjukurpa - the great battle between Kuniya (woma python) and Liru (poisonous snake man). Mala Walk - North-West side of Uluru (2km / 1hr return) This track begins at the Mala Walk car-park and ends at Kantju Gorge. On this walk you will learn about Mala Tjukurpa and see where dramatic events took place during creation times. From the waterhole you can continue on the Base Walk or stroll back to the car-park. Returning the same way is recommended, however, you can take the shorter route back along the road. Base of Uluru (9.8km / 3-4hrs full circuit) This track goes around Uluru. It is an excellent alternative to the Climb. The walk is quiet and you are unlikely to encounter large groups of people in most areas. Walk in a clockwise direction. It takes in the Mala and Mutitjulu walks along the way. Dune Viewing Area - Kata Tjuta The Dune Viewing Area (30 min return) Located off the Kata Tjuta Road, dune-top platforms provide seating, shade and visitor information. The area offers spectacular panoramic views of Kata Tjuta and the sand dunes. Uluru can be seen on the distant horizon from this lookout. Valley of the Winds - Kata Tjuta (7.4km / 3 hrs full circuit) Walk in the spectacular landscape of Kata Tjuta. Excellent views can be enjoyed from two lookout points along the track. Please beware that the walk is steep, rocky and difficult in places. Walpa Gorge - Kata Tjuta (2.6km / 1 hr return) Takes you to the end of the Gorge where Spearwood vines flourish. The track gently rises as you go giving a good view of the surrounding country to the west. Dune Walk - Bus sunset carpark (30 mins return) Takes you along a sand dune with views of both Uluru and Kata Tjuta. Look for animal tracks, compare sand dune vegetation with the woodland stretching towards Kata Tjuta.
Many Uluru colours of
Watching the colour of Uluru and Kata Tjuta change is spectacular. The colour changes result from the effects of the Earth’s atmosphere on the sun’s incoming rays. The ash, dust particles and water vapour present in the earth’s atmosphere act as a filter which can remove the bluer light, allowing the redder light through. Reflections from the rock and clouds in the sky enhance the vivid colours.
KataTjuta colours of