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Pauillac Recommendations > Bordeaux 2009 > Pauillac

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avril Pauillac Recommendations > Bordeaux 2009 > Pauillac With vineyards running from Saint-Julien in the south to Saint-Estèphe in the north, from the banks of the Gironde to back into Haut-Médoc country in the east, the style of Pauillac is varied, but in most cases dominated by the briary depth of Cabernet Sauvignon that gives a firmness that needs ageing. Alongside the habitual Pauillac vigour this year was a depth of ripeness that stayed on the palate, rather than being overwhelmed by firm tannins, although structure and grip was necessarily present for the long term. Many very impressive wines. Steven Spurrier Chateau Latour, 1er Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009 (91.3% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8.7% Merlot) Black red, huge concentration of black fruits and great purity, wonderfully fragrant nose with wild violets and lifted freshness, great length and perfect texture, totally Latour and all the fruit and vineyard will come out over the years. Drink 2018-45. (19.5 points) Chateau Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009 With vineyards running from Saint-Julien in the south to Saint-Estèphe in the north, from the banks of the Gironde to back into Haut-Médoc country in the east, the style Black red, wonderfully and spicybyand expressively of Pauillac is varied, butfragrant in mostnose, casesrich dominated thebeautifully briary depth of Cabernet textured fruit, plenty but needs pure harmony, vibrant andthe polished, Sauvignon that givesofa extraction firmness that ageing. Alongside habitualseductive Pauillac length greatwas future. Drinkof2016-35. points) on the palate, rather than being vigour and this year a depth ripeness(18.5 that stayed overwhelmed by firm tannins, although structure and grip was necessarily present for the long term. Many very impressive wines. Steven Spurrier Chateau Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009 Chateau Latour, 1er Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009 Black red, big, smoky rich and exotic nose, lots of depth, robust vineyard structure and powerful yet harmonious all vigourous potential. Drink 2017-35. (91.3% Cabernet Sauvignon, length, 8.7% Merlot) Black red, huge concentration of (18.5 black points) fruits and great purity, wonderfully fragrant nose with wild violets and lifted freshness, great length and perfect texture, totally Latour and all the fruit and vineyard will come out over the years. Drink 2018-45. (19.5 points) Chateau Mouton Rothschild, 1er Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009 Black red,Pichon-Longueville concentrated black fruits, rich satiny/velvety firm Cru texture, rich, Pauillac plummy, Chateau Comtesse de Lalande,yet Grand Classe, spicy, 2009 an explosion of aromas and flavours, surrounded and controlled by superb tannins, a sensually expressive wine. Drink 2016-40. (19 points) Black red, wonderfully fragrant nose, rich and spicy and beautifully expressively textured fruit, plenty of extraction but pure harmony, vibrant and polished, seductive Chateau Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009 length andLafite greatRothschild, future. Drink1er 2016-35. (18.5 points)

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Black purple red, elegant concentration of pure Lafite Cabernets, wild violets, succulent yet restrained fruit, both fleshy and firm, palate, Chateau Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Grand Cru superb Classe,middle Pauillac 2009not massively structured but like a Gothic cathedral: austere on the outside and soaring to good great wineheights - decanter.com the inside. Drink 2018-50. points) Black red, big,insmoky rich and exotic nose,(19.5 lots of depth, robust vineyard structure and powerful yet harmonious length, all vigourous potential. Drink 2017-35. (18.5 points) Chateau Pontet-Canet, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009 Dense colour and Rothschild, pure Cabernet blackcurrant fruit beautifully Chateau Mouton 1er Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009extracted with great length and perfect harmony, great purity of expression, exuberant yet restrained, great future. Drink 2016-30. (18.5 points) Black red, concentrated black fruits, rich satiny/velvety yet firm texture, rich, plummy, spicy, an explosion of aromas and flavours, surrounded and controlled by superb tannins, a sensually expressive wine. Drink 2016-40. (19 points) Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac 2009

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http://www.decanter.com/recommendations/subrecommendation.php?rid=665&sid=1... 08/04/2010 Fine dark Lafite red, beautiful cassis1er nose, plummy, silky/satiny texture, very Chateau Rothschild, Crufragrant Classe,and Pauillac 2009 seductive classy black fruits with good tannin back-up. Drink 2014-20. (17.5 points) Black purple red, elegant concentration of pure Lafite Cabernets, wild violets, succulent yet restrained fruit, both fleshy and firm, superb middle palate, not Chateau Grandcathedral: Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009 massivelyGrand-Puy-Ducasse, structured but like a Gothic austere on the outside and soaring to great heights in the inside. Drink 2018-50. (19.5 points) Black red, smoky and concentrated blackcurrant fruit, rich succulent fruit with a thick velvety texture and quite firm tannins. Drink 2015-25. (16.5 points)

Chateau Pontet-Canet, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009 Chateau Clercand Milon, Crublackcurrant Classe, Pauillac 2009 Dense colour pureGrand Cabernet fruit beautifully extracted with great

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2009 Chateau Pibran 89-91 Tasted at Château Pichon-Baron. A blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, this Pibran has a deep garnet core. It has a very pure but very tight nose, a little reticent early in the morning. Blackberry, a touch of black plum and boysenberry. Very smooth and sensuous on the entry, supple tannins, touches of graphite interlacing the black fruit, good acidity, quite linear towards the finish but the Merlot lends it an agreeable corpulence. Tasted March 2010. Gigantic Expectations Gigantic Expectations : Pauillac 2009 : Pauillac 2009

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2009 Chateau Pichon Baron 95-97 Show Tasted at the château andPauillacs at the UGC. A Their blendClass of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot, Pauillacs Show Their Class picked between 24th September and the 9th October, cropped at around 35hl/ha and bestowed Of course, Pauillac is much more than three First Growths A-Z offrom Primeur with 13.76% alcohol. This has a very hope tight nose at first, demanding coaxing the glass. Very (well, I sincerely is, though I do wonder sometimes.) Of course, Pauillac is much more than threeit First Growths Frédéric, Charles and Philippe A-Z of Primeur The buzzatcurrently surroundsup Château Pontet-Canet, which fine definition, a strict linearity first, opening a glacial pace, graphite, smoke, small black (well, I sincerely hope it is, though I do wonder sometimes.) you could mistake for a Burgundy with its biodynamic, Pauillacs Show Their Class cherries, hint of bilberry and crushedPontet-Canet, stones. The palate is full-bodied with and brilliant definition and Frédéric, Charles Philippe The buzz acurrently surrounds Château which philosophical zeal (if it were not for its 100-plus hectare Tasting Notes focus, even finer tannins than the stupendous 2008, very rounded and supple and yet with a firm Wine Home size…and predominance of Cabernet…and the fact that it is you Journal could mistake for a Burgundy with its biodynamic, Pauillacs Show Their Class linear backbone. No atlocated thefor moment, pure concentration. Wonderful persistency towards Search Neal's Tasting not initsthe Côtejust d’Or…) Winemaker Jean-Michel Comme summarized the growing season… philosophical zealNotes (if itfrills were not 100-plus hectare Tastingthe Notes “For us, we are on the way of research to understand ‘living’ [ecosystem] so we had to improve our Wine Journal Archive the finish. Top class. Tasted March 2010. size…and predominance of Cabernet…and the fact that it is

knowledge of each parcel and each plant. It is another kind of challenge. We had to rediscover Producer Profiles not located in the Côte d’Or…) Winemaker Comme the growing season… everything. We want toJean-Michel put the vines to a positionsummarized where they recover their ‘identity’ because over the Book/Film Reviews 2009 Les Longueville 88-90 “For us, weTourelles are on thede way of20, research to understand thetheir ‘living’ we had to improve our last 30 or 40 years, they have lost ability[ecosystem] to express theso terroir, so everything we do is aimed Album of the Month atand recovering their identity and we and must adapt our viticulture towards therediscover care soil and the vines. Aknowledge blend of 61% Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon 14% Cabernet Franc, hasforathe strict, linear of each parcel25% each plant. It is another kind of challenge. We had this to Visit the Wine Journal We learnt a lotto after 2007 [when rain and rotdamson forced Albert Tesseron toof sacrifice their biodynamic everything. We want to put the vines a position where they recover their ‘identity’ because over the nose with cedar infused black fruits, black plum, a hint of and a whiff smoke. Good Forum approach, a decision he regrets]. The disease only came in certain locations and varieties, so we could last 20, 30 The or 40palate years,isthey their ability express the terroir, sodepth everything we dorounded isIf aimed definition. full-bodied with muscular tannins, good of flavour, Interviews learnhave morelost about thequite terroir byto being more efficient with respect to disease control. you understand at recovering their identitythe and we mustyou adapt viticulture care forthe thefinish. soil and the vines. Bordeaux Vintageboysenberry, Guide terroir more, are inour the right direction to make the better wines.” blackberry, just a touch of white pepper andtowards graphite towards Good We learnt a lot after rain Deuxieme and rot forced Tesseron to sacrifice their About Neal Martin definition here: this 2007 is an [when excellent Vin,Albert though quite dry and tannic onbiodynamic the aftertaste. At Pontet-Canet, the harvest started 28th September for the Merlot and from 7th October until 15th

approach, a decision The disease only came in certain locations and varieties, so we could Tasted March 2010. he regrets]. October for the Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, one day before 2008 but much later than at

learn more about the terroir byorbeing efficient with respect control. If of you understand Lafite Latour.more The Grand Vin represents 80%to of disease the crop and consists a blend of: 65% Cabernet are in the right direction to make better wines.” the terroir more, you Quick Links Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. 2009 Chateau Pichon-Lalande 93-96

What's New Tasted the château and atstarted the limpid deep purple colour. This hasOctober a verySomething fragrant nose, Weekly Wineat Buys I tasted this UGC. wine on A four separate occasions including twice at the I have found At Pontet-Canet, the harvest 28th September for the Merlot and from 7thchateau. until 15th Gift Subscriptions not quitefor asthe wellCabernet definedwith as respect Pichontoand Baron, but veryit that elegant and with raspberry biodynamic wines samples aregraceful more sensitive toblackberry, their environment. So it was no October Sauvignon Petit Verdot, one day before 2008 but much later than at Shop The Wine Advocate Store surprise that when tasting in Very the early evening the châteauSecond following abottle severeat rainstorm, the sample leaf, pencil lead,The graphite and wild hedgerow. pure andatconsists feminine. the UGC is RSS Feeds Lafite or Latour. Grand represents 80% of the crop and of a blend of: 65% Cabernet wasVin rather subdued and lacked cohesion. In fact, the first three encounters indicated a very good Wine Advisor Updates actually better...much more precision here, the high proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon (75%) really Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. 2009, but not a great one, that1% is until I tasted a sample at a négociant and bingo! Here was the Pontet2010 TWA Editorial Calendar

showing through. The palate is medium-bodied with fine compact, not tannins as expansive Canet that fulfilled all my expectations: the tannins, tension andvery the purité, the filigree and yes, the

personality that can make thisI wine memorable. There is a softness to with theI wine belies the Ratings On The Gowinemuch as other wines, more conservative than wasso expecting, very graceful anthat unerring I tasted this on four separate occasions including twice at the but chateau. Something have found structure a structure may see it close a few years after Robert Mobi to biodynamic withParker respect winesunderneath, it that samples are that more sensitive todown theirfor environment. Sobottling, it was to nore-emerge

sense of symmetry. I cannot help feeling that the wine would benefit from a greater percentage of again after 10-12 years. It is a great Pontet-Canet…but a sensitive one, so be kind.

surprise that when on tasting in the early evening château following severe rainstorm,more the sample Merlot, especially the finish, but over timeatisthe does expand in the aglass, becoming and More Information Executive Wine Seminars was rather subdued and lacked cohesion. Inthe fact, first side-by-side three encounters indicated a very good which is I must have compared twothe Pichons on threeThis occasions during primeur, more supple, with a sense of Cabernet invoked authority on the finish. should coalesce Cartoon of the Week completely hypocritical of a me given that past I have asserted theywas are fundamentally 2009, but not atime great that is until I tasted sample at ina the négociant and bingo!how Here the Pontetbeautifully byMonth ofone, bottling. Tasted March 2010. Vino Vignette of the wines that simply shareand the same first name. that may no longer true? Canet that fulfilled all my different expectations: the tension the purité, the But filigree tannins andbe yes, the Articles of Merit “I love the vintage,” explained Christian Seely at Château Pichon Baron, adjusting his bowtie. “I think Find It Online personality that de canlamake this wine so by memorable. There on is a softness to the wine thatthe belies the wines have a 2009 Reserve Comtesse 88-90 that it is marked a wonderful finesse the tannin, strong but fine, and very best Alan Richman structure underneath, a structure that may it close for a few years after re-emerge beautiful andsee purity ofmost fruit,down very complete. I don’t know howbottling, people aretogoing to appreciate Wine Education For the vintage, this Reserve asharmony an exuberant, approachable nose with red-berries, kirsch, this vintage? Others have been overwhelmingly impressive, but 2009 is more subtle in style and the again 10-12 years. It is a great Pontet-Canet…but a sensitive one, so be kind. Glossary ofafter Wine Terms graphite, sous-bois and very cigar box. Very Pauillac. definition, a little in best wine, you think “what’s Moderate this about”. But you taste itactually and taste closing it and youup realize the subtlety.” The Vintage Chart the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, lots of tobacco/cigar box flavours The Wine Advocate I must have compared theHere twothe Pichons side-by-side onpicked threebetween occasionsand during primeur, which24th is September TWA Rating System Cabernet Sauvignon was 9th October, the Merlot infusing the black, dusky fruit. Nicely balanced, if just a little too 3rd conservative towards the austere, completely hypocritical ofand me2nd given thatstarting in the with pastthe I have how they areold. fundamentally October youngasserted vines and finishing on the A blend of 67% Cabernet

smoky finish. March 2010. Our Reviewers different winesTasted that simply share the first name. that may no there longer true? Sauvignon andsame 33% Merlot, like theBut stupendous 2008, is abe clarity and delineation in the Grand Robert Parker Vin that I think was not achieved during the 1990s.Baron, At the moment therehis is a bowtie. strictness“Itothink the wine, “I love the vintage,” explained Christian Seely at Château Pichon adjusting Antonio Galloni perhaps94-97 better delineated than theirstrong neighbour butthe it fans outbest beautifully onhave the finish 2009 Canet thatMacNeil itChateau is markedPontet by a wonderful finesse on the tannin, butopposite, fine, and very wines a and Karen expresses its terroir (which has beenathoned in to the “heart” of theactually gravel croupe in recent years) Neal Martin Tasted on four separate occasions, including twice the chateau, though showing best atas beautiful harmony and purity of fruit, very complete. succinctly as any other Pauillac. I don’t know how people are going to appreciate Jay Miller athis negociant. Representing 80% of the crop, 65% Cabernet 30% Merlot, 4%and Cabernet vintage?MW Others have been overwhelmingly impressive, butSauvignon, 2009 is more subtle in style the Lisa Perrotti-Brown Now the intriguing thing about the 2009 vintage that contains Château Pichon-Lalande Franc andwine, 1% Petit Verdot. The nose is very pure, blackberry, small black cherries, a touch ofmore David Schildknecht very best you think “what’s this about”. But you taste it andistaste it and you realize the subtlety.” Cabernet Sauvignon that Pichon-Baron: 75% with 20% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot.The Whereas PichonMark Squires a hint of cedar and griottes, mint. Quite feminine. Not too powerful. Very fine definition. palate Kevin Zraly Lalande is usually seen as the more approachable, fleshier, feminine cousin of Pichon Baron, in 2009 Here the Cabernet Sauvignon was picked between 3rd and 9th October, the Merlot 24th September is full-bodied with firm tannins, insistent grip and good acidity, perhaps one of the most structured, Past Reviewers they have used the template of the Cabernet-dominated 1996, which winemaker Thomas Dô-Chi-Nam and 2nd October starting with the young vines and finishing on the old. Aand blend of 67% once to me as the “archetypal Lalande.” masculine Pauillac 2009s butdescribed that does not detract fromPichon the finesse poise. ButCabernet certainly there

Links Sauvignon and 33% Merlot, like the stupendous 2008, there its is a clarity and delineation the Grand Does this imply the estate will eschew Merlot in the future? is backbone here that segues into a that tertiary note towards the finish. Very focused, in more minerally The Wine Advocate Fund Cropped between 22nd1990s. September and moment finishing on 7th October, I must saytothat thewine, samples of Pichon Vin that I think was not achieved during the At the there is a strictness the Educational elements towards the finish, hints of black truffle and smoke towards the finish. Very good wereneighbour more sensitive than everbut to the changing weather, those during primeur Retailer perhaps better delineated-Lalande than their opposite, it fans out beautifully onencountered the finish and persistency, somehow, an assured Pontet Canet. Superb. March 2010. I give it a slightly broader band week performing better than the week before Tasted at the château. Therefore, Accessory/Storage expresses its terroir (which has been honed in to the “heart” of the gravel croupe in recent years) as

succinctly as any other Pauillac.

SM is a service of eRobertParker, LLC eRobertParker.com Now the intriguing thing about the 2009 vintage is that Château Pichon-Lalande contains more Email: info@erobertparker.com Cabernet Sauvignon that Pichon-Baron: 75% with 20% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. Whereas Pichon© 2001-2010 - eRobertParker, LLC All rights reserved LalandeCopyright is usually seen as the more approachable, fleshier, feminine cousin of Pichon Baron, in 2009 Portions Copyright © 2001-2010 - The Wine Advocate, Inc. http://www.erobertparker.com/members/nmartin/nm1115.asp 13/04/2010 they have used the template of the Cabernet-dominated 1996, which winemaker Thomas Dô-Chi-Nam once described to me as the “archetypal Pichon Lalande.” Except as otherwise expressly permitted under the Subscription Agreement or copyright law, Does this imply that the estate will eschew its Merlot in the future?

2009

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   

 

   

                                

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         

   

     

       Mo 

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 19  26 

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 

                      14   

notes of rough tannin or greenness. Ch Lynch-Moussas 2009 Pauillac 16.5 Drink 2016-2026 Well balanced but not that concentrated on the nose. Sweet and easy and with a hint of air freshener. A little chewy on the end. Cocoa powder. Perfectly nice but without real distinction.

2009Ch Mouton Rothschild, Le Petit Mouton 2009 Pauillac 16 Drink 2018-2026 Bordeaux 2009 – Pauillac | Fine Wine Writing & Wine Reviews from Jancis Robins 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc – one of the highest proportions of Cabernet Franc. Very solid and rather arresting on the nose. Then just a little rustic on the palate. Chewy tannins – not the ultra-suppleness of, say, Carruades and Les Forts. More of an obvious second wine? Rather drying tannins on the finish. Ch Mouton Rothschild 2009 Pauillac 18.5 Drink 2020-2040 48% of the crop, picked 3 days earlier than usual because the grapes were so ripe. Average yield 45 hl/ha. 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot. Very dark indeed. Very Mouton. Very exotic, minerals, spice and old ladies’ handbags. Lovely topnotes. Real excitement on the nose here. Obviously great density but lots of grace notes. Lovely palate entry and glossy texture. Then again drier and a little more astringent than its peers on the finish. A difficult wine to mark because the nose is SO gorgeous! I think it may require just a bit more patience than some. Just seemed in a slightly low register when I tasted it. All the Mouton wines had ruder tannins than usual in 2009. 13.1% Home Tastings Forum News Our views Your views

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Ch Pedesclaux 2009 Pauillac 15.5 Drink 2015-2019 The well-heeled new owners have apparently just bought a massive area near Lafite. Mid crimson. Warm toasty nose. Very sweet  – almost exaggeratedly sweet. Lots of toasty oak. Very far from classic! Home Tastings Forum News Our views Your views Videos/Podcasts Maps Oxford Companion Resources melanie Ch Pibran 2009 Pauillac 16.5 Drink 2014-2019 Search 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, between Pontet-Canet and Grand-Puy Lacoste. Merlot on limestone – unusual. This is only  65% of production. 50% new oak. IPT (total polyphenol index) 81. Very dark. Very scented and floral – lilies? Exotic scent and then just a little leaner on the palate. Finishing a bit dry but lots of Rest o Apr2009s. 2010 by very Jancis  impact and flashiness. Less flesh than7many Maybe slightlyRobinson hard on the finish. Really very nice wine. GV? [Previous] [Next] 7 Apr 2010 by Jancis Robinson Ch Pichon-Longueville (Baron), Les Tourelles de Longueville 2009 Pauillac 16.5 Drink 2014-2020 guide to Not Bordeaux coverage. 61% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon,See 14% our Cabernet Franc. young vine2009 stuff – that goes into another wine. Half in screwcap See our guide to Bordeaux 2009 coverage. since 2004. Nervy. Really quite chewy on the end. Light and lively and fresh and vivacious. Quite delicate. Warm, rich, very juicy, fruit juice. Sold a little en primeur but not via the Bordeaux Place, through their négociant instead. IPT (total polyphenol index) 78. Therein certainly waswith nolotsshortage of ambition in Pauillacsuper-ripe in 2009 with There certainly was no shortage of ambition Pauillac in 2009 of really polished, refined, concentrated, wines - lots of really particularly at the top. Pichon Baron and Pontet-Canet performed particularly well in their two very different styles (indoor and particularly at the top. Pichon Baron and Pontet-Canet performed particularly we Ch Pichon-Longueville (Baron) 2009 Pauillac 18 Drink 2018-2030 slight puzzle was the Mouton outdoor, one might and Sauvignon, both Lafite and Latour seemed to be going fullquality tilt. Theinonly Free 33 hl/ha, older vines.say, Tworespectively) thirds Cabernet one third Merlot – they say Merlot 09 was very Cabernet outdoor, one the might say,ofrespectively) and both Lafite and Latour seemed to beacg stable, which has well of88, late ableofaegis Philippe Dhalluin. The tannins all four here were Sauvignon-like. IPTbeen (totalperforming polyphenolsoindex) TAunder 3.4 g/l. One the most concentrated vintages ever –infrom fruitwines not extraction. stable, which has been performing sonoVery well of late under the able notably a little Very moremineral rustic than the polished pzazz evident elsewhere. There is greatfresh disparity in picking dates. Wereaegis of Philipp Learn a Very verydrier darkand crimson. and grown up. Lovely lift and great, polished tannins. and fine tannins with density the lift samples 'prepared' than elsewhere? Ormass. could this have been a more reaction to1990, the accusations sometimes of old thatin elsewhere. Free for and on theless finish. Very sophisticated. Lots of a little of their though the the yields were levelled very much lower notably drierRemjnds and ame little rustic than polished pzazz evident the wines were New Worldy with too many echoes of Opus One? Probably not. The wines are very good, but just not Wines o 2009. Veryhere glossy andtoo confident. Verythe sophisticated. 13.8% samples less 'prepared' than elsewhere? Or could this have been a reaction quite as good as I had been expecting. Nick on wines here de were too New Worldy too 2015-2023 many echoes of Opus One? Travel Probt Ch Pichon Longueville Comtesse dethe Lalande, Réserve la Comtesse 2009 Pauillac with 16.5 Drink The crucial decision was, even more than usual, when Relatively to pick. It light was bodied vital thatand theflirtatious. phenolicsMore ripened fully, notably the slower Books/D Dark crimson. Very fragrant. Lifted, luscious and lively. transparent thaninmost 2009s. quite as good as I had been expecting. Cabernets, but this could not be at the expense of any overripe aromas and raisining. Latour, for exampe, picked its Cabernets in Where Just a bit angular and sinewy. Fades just a little fast. four days instead of the usual eight. Where Ch Pichon Longueville Comtesse deThe Lalande 2009 decision Pauillac 17 Drink crucial was,2017-2030 even more than usual, when to pick. It was vital Links thatan t Fermentations were particularly tumultuous in 2009 with extraction notably early inHeady these very alcoholic musts. Jancis r Dark crimson and a little more complex-looking than the Réserve de la Comtesse. and rich and spicy and lightly gamey. Cabernets, but this could not be at the expense of any overripe aromas and rais Very solid and dark and dense – almost brooding. Sweet, polished and fun. Just lacks a bit of bottom and density on the palate. Ch d'Armailhac 2009 Pauillac 16.5+four Drink 2017-2030 instead of thetannins. usualAppetising eight. and not at all forced. But not the most Purple p Very flirtatious. Complete and savoury on thedays finish with very polished 60% Cabernet ambitious 2009.Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. Picked 23 Sep – 6 Oct. Very dark crimson. Inky and fragrant with just a hint of farmyard. Black cherries for the first time on the left bank! Less obviously Tasting Fermentations were particularly tumultuous 2009 withslightly extraction early ripePontet-Canet and supple than many 2009s18onDrink the nose but then on the palate there’s a sweet start and then in a pretty chewy, sinewy notablyYour (re Ch 2009 Pauillac 2020-2035 finish. aSweet andthan polished – not toomore muchgrand soul but an awful of effective artifice! Reasonably More tannin Forum Yields bit more in 2008, with vin too. 81 halottotal vineyards. This year they are complete. trying for 24 ha traditional by horse. They management some. Oxford can’t tell us thethan alcohol butFairly think chunky. it’s 13-13.5%. Ch d'Armailhac 2009 Pauillac 16.5+ Drink 2017-2030 World A Very dark crimson. Firm and broad and very lively with real vibrant elderberry nose - there IS a bit of extra vitality in this wine! Very Ch Batailley 2009 Pauillac 17 There Drink 60% 2019-2030 Sauvignon, 24%Intense Merlot, 14% Franc, 2% Inside P in seems to come from the fruitPetit Verdot. very nice and satisfying indeed. is life toCabernet this and great breadth and depth. richness thatCabernet Brightthan crimson. deep. Succulent and sumptuous on the nose. Lots of sweetness. Justrichness. a little attenuated should deliver Don't qu rather from Pretty winemaking. Something of Lafite’s complexity and integrity. Plus Mouton’s Dry finish.but Very well done. Very dark crimson. Inky and fragrant with just a hint of farmyard. Black cherries satisfaction Videos/ But it is not aeventually! wine you want to undertake young – still lots to sort out. Much less open than most. Dense – really quite dry on the ripeMuscular. and supple than many 2009s on the nose but then on the palate there’s a s end but appetising though very long term. Ch Clerc Milon 2009 Pauillac 17 Drink 2018-2030 finish. Sweet and polished – not too much soul but an awful lot of effective artific 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot, 1% Carmenère. Picked 23 Sep – 6 Oct. Tags: Bordeaux 2009 than some. Fairly chunky. Deep moody colour. Pretty sumptuousmanagement and polished – super-ripe and flattering. Very sweet and rich although, like the other wines from this stable, some slightly rugged tannins. No obvious alcohol but fairly ripe and plush, plus notable acidity. Fine boned with attractive sweetness but no knock-out ingredient X. Rather drying finish, imprecise. Certainly a defiantly more traditional style [Next] than [Back to top] [Previous] Ch Batailley 2009 17 to Drink 2019-2030 some of its peers – odd, or perhaps predictable? – in view of thePauillac fact that it used be criticised for being too New World!

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Bright crimson. Pretty deep. Succulent and sumptuous on the nose. Contact us – Team Jancis – Site FAQs – My account – Log out – Terms and Conditions – Privacy policy – Site map – RSS Ch Croizet-Bages 2009 Pauillac 16.5 Drink 2017-2030 satisfaction eventually! Blackish crimson. Briary rim. Sweet, slightly simple nose. But lots of density and lift on the finish. Quite high volatility but fun! Just a bit dry on the end. Faded a bit fast.

Lots of swe

Ch Clerc Milon 2009 Pauillac 17 Drink 2018-2030

Ch Duhart-Milon 2009 Pauillac 17.5 Drink 2017-2029 50% Sauvignon, 44% 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot. Dark Cabernet crimson. Scented and satiny with lots Merlot, of lush mulberry fruit in the middle. Not at all Petit Verdot, 1% flashy. Low key. Very dry, Cabernet finish. Polished again and sleek. Fine tannins. Not for theand very polished long term but–very beautifully and flattering. Deep moody colour. Pretty sumptuous super-ripe made in a polished Cabernet way. Bone dry finish. More solid than Carruades. Light and lively on the finish. Sprightly – fully from this stable, some slightly rugged tannins. No obvious alcohol but fairly ripe fledged status now. Not an also ran – though there is just a little astringency on the finish.

attractive sweetness but no knock-out ingredient X. Rather drying finish, impreci fact that it use

Ch La Fleur Peyrabon 2009 Pauillacsome 15 Drink of2015-2018 its peers – odd, or perhaps predictable? – in view of the Mid crimson. Fleshy but a little bit dull and lacking zest. Sweet with a hint of animal fur – not at all typical Pauillac! Hot end. Then austere and drying. No!

Ch Croizet-Bages 2009 Pauillac 16.5 Drink 2017-2030

Ch Grand-Puy Ducasse 2009 Pauillac 16.5 Drink 2016-2028 Blackish crimson. Briary rim. Sweet, slightly simple nose. But lots Unusually deep crimson. Very dark crimson. Sweet candy nose. Not very dense but certainly very sweet in a candy way. Then pretty austere tannins. Pretty dry end.bit dry on the end. Faded a bit fast. Ch Grand-Puy Lacoste, Lacoste Borie 2009 Pauillac 16 Drink 2014-2019 Ch Duhart-Milon 2009 Pauillac 17.5 2017-2029 Very dark crimson. Lightly soapy nose. Sweet and floral and lively. A little bit of alcohol andDrink a lot of sweetness. Frank and fun. Even if not the most serious wine of the lot. Bit of a fast fade. A little simple.37% 13.3% Merlot. Dark crimson. Scented 63% Cabernet Sauvignon,

of density and

and satiny with l

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Many more prices are expected next week once the American wine critic Robert Parker has published his scores. Since he gave such high points for so many 2008s, many proprietors are feeling confident of excellent scores for wines made in the much more widely celebrated 2009 vintage. I suspect that once prices for the more famous wines start to come out, we will all realise that we should be snapping up the best wines from humbler appellations, such as some of those in Bordeaux 2009 - more tasting notes just published.

Meanwhile, at the bottom of the Bordeaux pyramid, the CIVB has just announced its latest £1 million generic advertising campaign, pushing what is surely red bordeaux's  most significant attribute: its suitability for the table. Gone are the vacant-looking models astings Forum News Our views YourVideos/Podcasts views Videos/Podcasts Maps Resources Oxford  Tastings Forum News Our to views Your by views Maps Oxford Companion be replaced something much edgier.

Inside information Date of publication from to

2009

Clear search o

6 Apr 2010 by Jancis Robinson

4 Apr 2010 by Jancis Robinson/FT

 Companion Resources melanie logged in

 

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avril

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3 Apr 2010 by Jancis Robinson

[Previous] [Next] 23 Apr 2010 by Jancis Robinson

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23 Apr 2010 by2009 Jancis Robinson See our guide to Bordeaux coverage.

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Wine merchants Bibendum are patting themselves very loudly on the back over the See ourconsumer guide to Bordeaux 2009 coverage. success of their primeurs tasting on Wednesday, with the press release in italics below apparently confirming that British wine lovers are extremely interested in this new vintage.

1 Apr 2010 by Jancis Robinson

0 Apr 2010 by Jancis Robinson

 

9 Apr 2010 by Jancis Robinson

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6 Apr 2010 by Jancis Robinson

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  4 Apr 2010 by Jancis Robinson/FT

Wine merchants Bibendum are patting themselves very loudly on

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by by Jancis 12010 Apr 2010 Jancis Robinson/FT Robinson

 

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2010 by Jancis Robinson

0 Apr 2010 by Jancis Robinson

  

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9 Apr 2010 by Jancis Robinson

2010 by Jancis Robinson

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2010 by Jancis Robinson

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2010 by Jancis Robinson

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2010 by Jancis Robinson

Free for all

  humbler suchareasof some ofdubious those value, in Bordeaux 2009 - more tasting notes just I still think generic appellations, advertising campaigns extremely but to me this

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3 Apr 2010 by Jancis Robinson

Learn about wine FreeAllforthese all words Thisofexact word or phrase Wines the week [Previous] or more of [Next] these word NickOne on restaurants Travel tips Category Books/DVDs General Where to buy Tastings Where to store Tasting articles Links and addresses News the Jancis backrecommends over the

success consumer tasting oncritic Wednesday, release in Many more prices of are their expected next week primeurs once the American wine Robert Parker with the press Purple pages Inside information has published scores. Since he gave such high points so manywine 2008s,lovers many are extremely interested in this italics his below apparently confirming thatforBritish proprietors are feeling confident of excellent scores for wines made in the much more Date of notes publication Tasting new vintage. widely celebrated 2009 vintage. I suspect that once prices for the more famous wines Your (re)views from start to come out, we will all realise that we should be snapping up the best wines from Forum to humbler appellations, as some those in Bordeaux 2009 - once more tasting notes just wine critic Oxford Companion to Wine Many more such prices are of expected next week the American Robert Parker published. World Atlas many of Wine maps has published his scores. Since he gave such high points for so many 2008s, Clear search o Inside information proprietors areoffeeling confident excellent scores for wines made inDon't the quote much Meanwhile, at the bottom the Bordeaux pyramid,ofthe CIVB has just announced its memore latest £1 million celebrated generic advertising campaign, pushing what is surely red bordeaux's Videos/Podcasts widely 2009 vintage. I suspect that once prices for the more famous wines most significant attribute: its suitability for the table. Gone are the vacant-looking models start to come out, we will all realise that we should be snapping up the best wines from to be replaced by something much edgier.

3 Apr 2010 by Jancis Robinson

 2010 by Jancis Robinson 

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Over 900 wine lovers rush to taste Bordeaux 2009 at Bibendum's Bordeaux Tasting

Meanwhile, at the bottom of the Bordeaux pyramid, the CIVB has justLearn announced about wineits all latest £1 million generic advertising campaign, pushing what redfor bordeaux's The excitement surrounding Bordeaux 2009 reached fever pitch in London yesterday as is surelyFree Wines of the week over 900 wine lovers, sommeliers and journalists descended on Lord's cricket ground for most significant attribute: its suitability for the table. Gone are the vacant-looking models Nick on restaurants Bibendum's Annual Bordeaux Tasting. to be replaced by something much edgier. Travel tips Books/DVDs The only notable absentees were some of the chateau owners who were unable to travel Where to buy to London from Bordeaux owing to the infamous volcanic ash cloud. For once, it seems Where to store that the ashes and Lord's is not a perfect combination! To their credit, nearly 30 Links and addresses producers did travel including AXA Millesimes's Christian Seely, and the hero of the hour, Jancis recommends Anthony Barton, who flew in by private jet so as not to disappoint his public. Those who were able to get to Lord's had a fantastic day. Wines from over 85 châteaux were on show and the tasting featured over 75 wines from the feted 2009 vintage. Bibendum Fine Wine Director Ben Collins said: 'Many of the 2009s were simply fantastic. In many cases the wines tasted even better than they had in Bordeaux a few weeks ago. This is clearly a vintage that has produced some outstanding wines, especially in the Medoc.' Favourites included Pontet Canet, Pichon Baron, Montrose, La Conseillante and Léoville Barton but some less celebrated names also excelled. Dauzac, Lanessan, Pibran and Tronquoy Lalande are just a few of the wines that will offer superb value for money in 2009.

Purple pages Tasting notes Your (re)views Forum Oxford Companion to Wine World Atlas of Wine maps Inside information Don't quote me Videos/Podcasts

IInstill think generic advertising are of extremely dubiouswith value, butstretching to me this addition to the 2009s many campaigns chateaux showed an older vintage, wines one looks more sensible than all of its predecessors. back to 1994. Demand to taste wines such as Cheval Blanc 2004, Lynch Bages 2008, Leoville Las Cases 1996 and d'Yquem 1996 was unsurprisingly high. Over 900 wine lovers rush to taste Bordeaux 2009 at Bibendum's Bordeaux Tasting

The tasting rocked. It was the biggest public Bordeaux en primeur tasting ever held in the

The excitement surrounding Bordeaux 2009 reached pitch in2009 London yesterday as UK and gave wine lovers their best opportunity to taste Bordeaux before they buy eaux 2009 - a British love affair? | Tasting Notes &fever Wine Reviews from Jancis ... over 900 wine lovers, sommeliers and journalists descended on Lord's cricket ground for the wines. Bibendum's Annual Bordeaux Tasting.

Writing on his blog (www.wineanorak.com), Jamie Goode wrote: 'I love the way The only notable absentees somelike of the chateau owners whoyears werethey unable to travel Bibendum treat their private were customers adults: for the last few have to London from Bordeauxproducers owing to the infamous For once, itover seems andcloud. representatives to let persuaded the Bordeaux to send caskvolcanic samplesash that the ashes and is not afor perfect combination! their credit, nearly 30 on customers taste theLord's new vintage themselves, ratherTo than forcing them to rely producers did travel including AXA Millesimes's Christian Seely, and the hero of the hour, critics.' Anthony Barton, who flew in by private jet so as not to disappoint his public. It is clearly an approach that works. Bibendum received a record number of wish lists for en primeur winesable fromtoattendees as well plenty ofday. orders for the older Alex Those who were get to Lord's hadas a fantastic Wines from overvintages. 85 châteaux Marton, Director of featured Fine Wine, said: 'We are looking forward to vintage. an exceptional were on Bibendum show and the tasting over 75 wines from the feted 2009 Bordeaux 2009 campaign. It was speak to so new customers Lord's Bibendum Fine Wine Director Benbrilliant Collinsto said: 'Many of many the 2009s were simplyatfantastic. who have not bought Bordeaux en primeur who areinlooking to buy thisweeks year.' ago. In many cases the wines tasted even better before, than they had Bordeaux a few

Page 2

I still think generic advertising campaigns are of extremely dubious value, but to me this

This is clearly a vintage that has produced some outstanding wines, especially in the Medoc.'one looks more sensible than all of its predecessors.

16 /www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/a201004233.html Tags: Bordeaux 2009

Favourites included Pontet Canet, Pichon Baron, Montrose, La Conseillante and Léoville Over 900 wine lovers rush to taste Bordeaux 2009 Pibran at Bibendum's Barton but some less celebrated names also excelled. Dauzac, Lanessan, [Back to top] [Previous]and [Next]

Bordeaux Tasting27/04

2009 Lea & Sandeman

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avril Lea & Sandeman

Backto2009BordeauxPrimeurs

PAUILLAC InPauillacthequalityseemeduniversallyhigh.ThethreeFirstGrowthsareallatthetopoftheirgame.I perhapsdidnottasteLatourquiteaswellasothers,butitiscertainlyverygood.Thewinesthatwere

exceptionalintheirowntermsarecertainlyPontetCanet,whichiswonderful(butstaycalmontheprice Purpleblack,intensefreshcassisandcherrynose.Seemsavery

Alfred,prettyplease?),andprobablyGrandPuyLacoste,HautBatailley,andLynchisaverystrongLynch.

'modern'style.Palatepowerful,impressiveweightandagreatintensity

PichonLalandesemstobemakingawelcomereturntoform,butthereagainIhopetheywillrecognisethe

ofspicydrivenfruit.Atouchofrichchocolatiness.Thicknessandpower needforabitofbrandrebuildingandbereasonableinprice.Value?thereishopeforHautBatailley,Haut

whichcanonlyimpress,ifalittlebrutal.Denseandlong.94+ 94+ BagesLiberal,andEchodeLynchBages.AndLacosteBorieifitisofferedenprimeur. 



Clickanywinenametoseedetailsincludingother Clickanywinenametoseedetailsincludingotherreviews

Pauillac

2009CHÂTEAUPONTETCANET5èmeCruClasséPauillac

75clbottles,woodcaseof12 2009CARRUADESDECHÂTEAULAFITEPauillac

In Bond

75clbottles,woodcaseof12

£tba

In Bond 1

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Adeeppurpleedgedblack.Firstscentisincrediblyappetising,like

TheLafitestabletastedatDuhartthisyearthereismajorconstruction

blackberryandapplepie.Fullandsweet,andalsoanintense,pointed

workgoingonatLafite.Carruadesisdeepincolour,althoughthe

cassisfruit.Thickdryattackanamazingcombinationoffreshnessof lightinginthisroomatDuhartprobablycontributestotheblackcentre.

concentratedfruitandsimplythicknessoftannicweight.Allthistannin Tautdrystylewithsweetfruitandafirmbittercherryfinish.Ongoing backaftertastingLafite,thisseemssignifcantlyhighertoned,butalso isjuststuffedwithfruit.Completely'real',naturaltotaste,withperfect easierto'findyourwayaround'.AverysuccessfulCarruades.91 9192

fruitbalance,cutandclarityofflavour,allcombinedwithmassiveand



impressiveweightandminutesoflength.Oneofmytopwinesofthe year.97 97

2009CHÂTEAUCLERCMILON5èmeCruClasséPauillac

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

Evenfresherthanthed'Armailhac,reallygoodliftedfruit,intense,quite oakycassis,almostfierceinitsexpression,gorgeouslyvelvetytexture,

2009ECHOdeLynchBagesPauillac longandreallyquiteexcitingforCM.92+ 92+ 

In Bond

75clbottles,woodcaseof12

WhatusedtobecalledHautBagesAverous.Softerandmorefragrant

2009CHÂTEAUD'ARMAILHAC5èmeCruClasséPauillac

In Bond £tba 1 thantheOrmesdePez.Spiceonattackleadstoahugelyexpressivemid 75clbottles,woodcaseof12

Add

palate,andagainaspicyblackfruitfinish.Veryattractive,itseems

60%CabernetSauvignon,24%Merlot,14%CabernetFranc,2%Petit

lesscompleteinitselfthantheOrmesdePezfornow,butoften Verdot.Expressive,spicyfruit,lotsoffreshweightofcassis,silkvelvet texture,veryfreshifquite'thick'. 91 developswell.90



2009FORTSDELATOURduPauillac

http://www.leaandsandeman.co.uk/template.html?categoryId=119 75clbottles,woodcaseof12

Verydarkredtoblackcentre.Slightlyrestrained,(muffled,even)soft

In Bond

20/04/2010

2009Partagez to

Robert Parker est un prescripteur de référence. PHOTO REUTERS

: les notes de Robert Parker lancent la campagne primeurs des 2009 - SudOuest.fr

Partager Plus

Page 2 surGironde 4 vins

Sur 37 pages, les abonnés à sa lettre qui fait autorité dans le monde anglo-saxon et ailleurs, peuvent lire le résultat des courses depuis hier. Producteurs, courtiers et négociants ont maintenant un élément (capital) de plus à intégrer dans la marmite de leur réflexion pour savoir à quels prix sortir les vins et dans quelles conditions.

Saint-Émilion

avril 29 avril 2010 12h29 | Par César Compadre

commentaire(s)

Vins: les notes de Robert Parker lancent la campagne primeurs des 2009 Sans surprise, les notes sont bonnes. Les prix des grands vins seront à la hausse

VILLAVERDE De vrais professio l'animalerie et de l plus proche de che www.villaverde.fr

St Sebastien Tou Ste de réference p saint Sébastien, le en un seul clic. www.sansebastia

Envoyer à un ami

Imprimer

Rappelons que ce marché des ventes en primeur, spécifique au Bordelais, concerne de 120 (les petites années) à 250 châteaux (les grands millésimes). Achetées d'ici juillet à des prix censés être attractifs, ces bouteilles, en cours d'élevage dans les propriétés, ne seront livrées que fin 2011. Il s'agit d'un achat par anticipation finançant les châteaux tout en permettant aux amateurs d'obtenir en amont des vins rares qui s'arracheront plus ou moins suivant la notoriété des millésimes et des châteaux.

WEEK-END PAYS 3 jours/2nuits en ré Đ/personne www.terreetcoteb

Côte Basque Gip Découvrez ses sec www.costagipuzk

Les +

Beaucoup de 100/100 Robert Parker, qui habite sur la côte Est des États-Unis, sillonne le Bordelais depuis trente-deux ans. Il a goûté pendant douze jours à la mi-mars (avant la semaine des primeurs de début avril) et livre donc ici sesPartagez notes pour 450 vins et rouges, le tout toutes vosblancs infos avec vos amis ! avec des commentaires. Sans surprise, l'homme est élogieux sur la qualité du 2009. « Un des meilleurs goûtés pendant ma carrière. Du niveau du 2005, c'est un millésime historique ». Même s'il précise « qu'il y a toujours des exceptions à ces généralités ». Robert Parker est un prescripteur de référence. PHOTO REUTERS

Le critique américain Robert Parker ne fixe le prix d'aucun vin mais la sortie de ses notes participe souvent aux succès ou aux désagréments des campagnes de vente en primeurs des grands bordeaux. Sur 37 pages, les abonnés à sa lettre qui fait autorité dans le monde anglo-saxon et ailleurs, peuvent lire le résultat des courses depuis hier. Producteurs, courtiers et négociants ont maintenant un élément (capital) de plus à intégrer dans la marmite de leur réflexion pour savoir à quels prix sortir les vins et dans quelles conditions.

Partager Plus

Gironde vins Saint-Émilion

Envoyer à un ami

Votre annonce ici Suivant son système de notation sur 100, et avec des fourchettes (parVILLAVERDE exemple 95-97), on trouve une quantité importante de très De vrais professionnels du jardin, de bonnes notes et plusieurs maximums. C'est le cas à Saint-Émilion l'animalerie et de la décoration. Le magasin le avec par exemple Angélus (95-100), Bellevue Mondotte (95-100), plus proche de chez vous ? www.villaverde.fr Cheval Blanc (98-100) ou Pavie (96-100). Mais aussi à Pomerol : Clinet (97-100), Clos l'Église (96-100, l'Église Clinet (98-100), l'Évangile (96-100), Hosanna (98-100) ou Petrus (96-100). Le Médoc St Sebastien Tourisme Stepas de réference organiser la visite de n'est en restepour : Cos d'Estourmel (98-100), Lafite Rothschild (98saint Sébastien, les hébergements et services 100), Latour (98-100), Léoville Las Cases (96-100), Léoville Poyferré en un seul clic. www.sansebastianturismo.com (97-100), Margaux (98-100), Montrose (96-100) ou Pontet Canet (97100) sont aussi au top du top. Ce qui n'est pas le cas de Mouton Rothschild (96-98). À souligner aussi les 100 amoncelés par JeanWEEK-END PAYS BASQUE Philippe Delmas Pessacde: tourisme*** Haut Brion et ladeMission Haut Brion en 3 jours/2nuits en à résidence à parir 54 Đ/personne rouge comme en blanc !

www.terreetcotebasques.com

Imprimer

1 L'accord cac

2 Une femme d tentative de v

3 Traditionalist l'école borde

4 Capbreton: u sa voiture

5 Escalettes à « Laurent Bla

Associations

Rechercher le no

Pelote Pompig

Le club de Pelote de P avec une équipe fémin

Les francas de

Et maintenant les prix

Une association de Je

Côte Basque Gipuzkoa

Suivant le « jeu » habituel, la majorité des propriétaires voudra Découvrez ses secrets et profitez-en à 100% www.costagipuzkoa.com

Clubs de Support

Evénements

Les + Lus | Commentés | Envoyés http://www.sudouest.fr/2010/04/29/vins-les-notes-de-robert-parker-lancent

Beaucoup de 100/100 Robert Parker, qui habite sur la côte Est des États-Unis, sillonne le Bordelais depuis trente-deux ans. Il a goûté pendant douze jours à la mi-mars (avant la semaine des primeurs de début avril) et livre donc ici ses notes pour 450 vins blancs et rouges, le tout avec des commentaires. Sans surprise, l'homme est élogieux sur la qualité du 2009. « Un des meilleurs goûtés pendant ma carrière. Du niveau du 2005, c'est un millésime historique ». Même s'il précise « qu'il y a toujours des

1 L'accord caché de Ségolène Royal

2 Une femme de 79 ans victime d'une tentative de viol

3 Traditionalistes : la maison du président de l'école bordelaise taguée

2009

avril LE TOP DES BORDEAUX 2009

Notre palmarès des plus grandes réussites de l’année ....Château Pontet-Canet, Pauillac..... LE TOP DES BORDEAUX 2009

Notre palmarès des plus grandes réussites de l’année PAUILLAC ....Château Pontet-Canet, Pauillac.....

Les vins ont le caractère monumental du millésime, tout en respectant leur style traditionnel, lié à la situation de leur vigne et à l’esthétique voulue et obtenue de leurs propriétaires ou responsables. La réussite est générale avec pour notre équipe de dégustateurs une préférence unanime pour les assemblages à très PAUILLAC Les vins de ont cabernet-sauvignon, le caractère monumental souverain du millésime,comme tout en respectant traditionnel, lié et à laargileuses situaforte proportion toujours leur sur style les graves riches de tion de leur vigne et à l’esthétique voulue et obtenue de leurs propriétaires ou responsables. La réussite l’appellation. est générale avec pour notre équipe de dégustateurs une préférence unanime pour les assemblages à très forte proportion de cabernet-sauvignon, souverain comme toujours sur les graves riches et argileuses de l’appellation.

CHÂTEAU PONTET-CANET Pauillac,CHÂTEAU rouge 2009 PONTET-CANET La propriété a fait le choix Pauillac, rouge 2009 de la pureté et de l’élégance au prix d’un léger manque de La propriété a fait le choix deCe la pureté de l’élégance au prixéquipe, d’un léger manque de devant le monumentalité dans la texture. choix et a ravi toute notre admirative monumentalité dans la texture. Ce choix a ravi toute notre équipe, admirative devant le merveilleux naturel des arômes, et la finesse superlative du tanin. Un vin très abouti, et le merveilleux naturel des arômes, et la finesse superlative du tanin. Un vin très abouti, et le triomphetriomphe habituel de David sur sur Goliath. habituel de David Goliath.19/20 19/20

Tast - 16 Avril 2010

2009

14% alcohol. 80M, 20CF The J-P Moueix tasting was of a very high standard this year, but this was the stand out wine for me. It’s very deeply coloured, showing rich, sumptuous aromas of coffee bean, plum and blackberry. The palate is beautifully structured, even at this young age, with lovely balance between tannins, oak, acidity and fruit. An exceptional Pomerol . 20+ years

13.1% alcohol. 87 CS, 9M, 2PV, 2CF Paul Pontallier calls this one of the “densest wines, but also the sweetest” he has avril ever made. Even if it falls slightly short of Lafite and Latour, it’s still a great wine. Very aromatic and alluring, this has cherry and redcurrant fruit, a touch of bramble, well-integrated oak, assertive tannins and lively, refreshing, palatecleansing acidity. 20+ years.

13.2% alcohol. 65 CS, 29M, 5CF, 1PV It may or may not have something to do with bio-dynamic practices in the vineyard, but this fifth growth continues to outperform its place in the 1855 classification. Violet-scented and pure, the 2009 has a lovely freshness and elegance to it, with cedarwood, damson and black fruits on the palate. A wine that has now achieved Super Second status. 20+ years.

13.5% alcohol. 100 M There will be an almighty scramble to buy the 7,000 bottles of the 2009 Le Pin, even at what is sure to be a very high price. The wine is a brilliant example of skilfully tamed exuberance, with notes of Asian spices and cedarwood on the nose and elegant, almost Ribera del Duero-like flavours. This is poised and refreshing. Drinkable young, but has the concentration to age. 15+ years.

13.7% alcohol. 84 M, 8CF, 8CS Unusually low in Cabernet Franc because of water stress in part of the vineyard, but the sensuous Merlot more than compensates. More marked by oak than Le Pin, but also a bigger, more powerful wine. Sweet, succulent, harmonious palate with lovely acidity and a savoury notes from the Cabernet Sauvignon. The aim 20 VCC succeeded. 20+ years. here was to avoid a “massive wine”.

2009

avril

2009

avril

Bordeaux En Primeur 2009 Day 4: Saint-Julien, Saint-Estèphe, Pauillac - Wine Enth... RATINGS EDITORS' BLOGS VINTAGE CHART RECIPES & DINING TOP RESTAURANTS BEER COCKTAILS & SPIRITS EVENTS WINE 101 TRAVEL ENTERTA

2009

WINE ENTHUSIAST MAGAZINE / APRIL 2010 / BORDEAUX EN PRIMEUR 2009 DAY 4: SAINT-JULIEN, SAINT-ESTÈPHE, PAUILLAC

FEED

Published on Apr 1, 2010

RATINGS EDITORS' BLOGS VINTAGE CHART RECIPES & DINING TOP RESTAURANTS BEER COCKTAILS & SPIRITS EVENTS WINE 101 TRAVEL ENTERTA

BY ROGER VOSS

avril

Friday Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux WINE ENTHUSIAST MAGAZINE / APRIL 2010 / BORDEAUX EN PRIMEUR 2009reviews: DAY 4: SAINT-JULIEN, SAINT-ESTÈPHE, PAUILLAC whites, the FIRSTS Friday: Wine of the Vintage

EMAIL PRINT EDITORS' BLOGS FEED ALSO SEE: RATINGS VINTAGE CHART RECIPES & DINING TOP RES

En Primeur Day 1: Sauternes

Bordeaux En Primeur 2009 Day Saint-Julien, En Primeur Day 2:4: Saint-Emilion and Pomerol WINE ENTHUSIASTPauillac MAGAZINEEn/ Primeur APRILDay 2010 / BORDEAUX EN PRIMEUR 2009 DAY 4: 3: Marguax, Moulis, Saint-Estèphe, Listrac, Médoc. For success or failure, blame merlot.

There is no doubt, 2009 is a great Bordeaux vintage. In the northern Médoc’s appellations of Saint-Julien, Saint-Estèphe and Pauillac, where I BY ROGER VOSS EMAIL PRINT tasted today, the Cabernet Sauvignon has produced magnificent wines; rich and luscious while FEED preserving mouth-tingling fruit and freshness. Friday reviews: Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux whites, the FIRSTS But 2009 is not a uniform vintage. There is a lot of talk at the tasting tables this week of a lack of Friday: Wine of the Vintage homogeneity. So while the best wines are great, there are some which should be great and are not. ALSO SEE: The reason is straightforward and has come right out of the nature of the 2009 vintage, as I noted yesterday. Nature shows itself even more clearly today. “You had the right date to pick”, En Primeur Dayto1:choose Sauternes said Charles Chevalier of Château Lafite-Rothschild. Across the road at Château Mouton-Rothschild, Philippe Dhalluin advanced the picking because heEn “wanted to Day restrain the level of alcohol” (Mouton Primeur 2: Saint-Emilion and Pomerol is 13.1 percent) and bring out the natural freshness of the vintage. Xavier Pallu at Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande said “it was important to preserve fruit andMoulis, not look for extra En Primeur Day 3:the Marguax, maturation.” Listrac, Médoc. Published onBordeaux. Apr 1, 2010 Snapping up

Bordeaux En Primeur 2009 Da Saint-Estèphe, Pauillac

The big risk of over-ripeness, of shrivelled grapes, was with the Merlot, a variety naturally more alcoholic than Cabernet Sauvignon. There is no doubt, 2009 is a great Bordeaux Snapping up Bordeaux. vintage. In the northern Médoc’s appellations of “We had to watch the maturation of the Merlot like aSaint-Julien, hawk,” said Saint-Estèphe Yves Delsol, technical director of I and Pauillac, where Château Tronquoy-Lalande in Saint-Estèphe. “Everything depended on the The higher tasted today, the Cabernet Sauvignon has produced magnificent wines; richMerlot. and luscious whilethe quantity of Merlot you hadfruit in your the more you had to guard against high sugars and high preserving mouth-tingling andvineyard, freshness. alcohols.” But 2009 is not a uniform vintage. There is a lot of talk at the tasting tables this week of a lack of If you didn’t—and therethe arebest some famous in theare Médoc didn’t—then alcohol creeps homogeneity. So while wines are names great, there somewho which should bethe great and are not. up, and the wine becomes too big, too powerful for the essential balance. It lacks the vital quality of vivacity. The reason is straightforward and has come right out of the nature of the 2009 vintage, as I noted yesterday. Nature shows itself even more clearly today. “You had to choose the right date to pick”, Put failures of were the successes of those who knew theMouton-Rothschild, exceptional 2009 saidagainst Charlesthe Chevalier Château Lafite-Rothschild. Across thehow roadtoathandle Château harvest. Barton, of the Château Léoville Barton, has been workingthe in Bordeaux since 1951, Philippe Anthony Dhalluin advanced picking because he “wanted to restrain level of alcohol” (Mouton which him and a long memory past harvests. “If of I was what are Pallu the ideal climate Pichon is 13.1gives percent) bring out theofnatural freshness the asked vintage. Xavier at Château conditions we need, I would say it is what we had in 2009. Everything was perfect, so the wine Longueville Comtesse de Lalande said “it was important to preserve the fruit and not look for extra should be and it is.” maturation.”

For success or failure, blame merlot. Published on Apr 1, 2010 BY ROGER VOSS

Alfred at Château Pontet-Canet, says simply: “if I the didn’t makeaavariety great wine in 2009, The bigTesseron, risk of over-ripeness, of shrivelled grapes, was with Merlot, naturally morethen I should choose another career.” alcoholic than Cabernet Sauvignon. “We had to watch the maturation of the Merlot like a hawk,” said Yves Delsol, technical director of Bordeaux 2009 en primeur. in Saint-Estèphe. “Everything depended on the Merlot. The higher the Château Tronquoy-Lalande quantity of Merlot you had in your vineyard, the more you had to guard against high sugars and high 98–100 alcohols.” Château Pontet-Canet 2009 Pauillac A superb wine withthere the purest fruit,famous great freshness ripeness. It is certainly structured with dry If you didn’t—and are some names in and the Médoc who didn’t—then the alcohol creeps tannins, while thebecomes blackcurrant freshness is also for all the there. The biodynamic has greatquality limpid,of up, and the wine too big, too powerful essential balance. Itwine lacks theavital flowing vivacity.feel, backed by power.–R.V. 96–98 Put against the failures were the successes of those who knew how to handle the exceptional 2009 Château Léoville las-Cases 2009 Saint-Julien harvest. Anthony Barton, of Château Léoville Barton, has been working in Bordeaux since 1951, A powerful with tannins from structured Cabernet exudes muscularity, which giveswine, him apacked long memory of past harvests. “If I was askedfruits. what Itare the ideal climate intensity and concentration. The wood element is present. final freshness is missing.–R.V. conditions we need, I would say it is what we had Maybe in 2009.the Everything was perfect, so the wine should be and it is.” 96–98 Château Léoville-Barton 2009Pontet-Canet, Saint-Julien says simply: “if I didn’t make a great wine in 2009, then I Alfred Tesseron, at Château Ripe, butanother also intensely shouldsweet choose career.”juicy; a delicious wine, full of sweetness and rich complexity. The new wood element is there, neatly bringing out the beauty of the fruit.–R.V. 95–97 Bordeaux 2009 en primeur. Château Ducru Beaucaillou 2009 Saint-Julien 98–100 Château Pontet-Canet 2009 Pauillac A superb wine with the purest fruit, great freshness and ripeness. It is certainly structured with dry tannins, while the blackcurrant freshness is also all there. The biodynamic wine has a great limpid, flowing feel, backed by power.–R.V.

Friday review whites, the F Friday: Wine ALSO SEE:

En Primeur D

En Primeur D Listrac, Médo

There is no d vintage. In th 23 Saint-Julien, 96–98 http://www.winemag.com/Wine-Enthusiast-Magazine/April-2010/Bordeaux-En-Prim... Château Léoville las-Cases 2009 Saint-Julien tasted today, the Cabernet Sauvignon has produced magnificen Snapping up Bordeaux.

2009

Bordeaux 2009 at the home of cricket « jamie goode's wine blog

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« Closures for fine wines St Peter’s Organic Ale After the IWC today, I headed over to Lord’s for a Bordeaux tasting put on by Bibendum Wine. I love the way Bibendum treat their private customers like adults: for the last few years they have persuaded the Bordeaux producers to send cask samples and representatives over to let customers taste the new vintage for themselves, rather than forcing them to rely on critics.

Bordeaux 2009 at the home of cricket

So as well as some interesting back vintages, they had a whole bunch of the much talked about 2009s to taste. I managed to get round 27 of them, before it became quite crowded and my palate started to tire (I’d already tasted quite a lot of wines at the IWC). Here are my favourites. [Bear in mind these are cask samples, hence scores, out of 100, are given as a range.]

After the IWC today, I headed over to Lord’s for a Bordeaux tasting put on by Bibendum Wine. I love the way Bibendum treat their private customers like adults: for the last few years they have persuaded the Bordeaux producers to send cask samples and representatives over to let customers taste the new vintage for themselves, rather than forcing them to rely on critics.

ChâteauSo Pontet Canet 2009 Pauillac back vintages, they had a whole bunch of the much talked about 2009s to taste. I managed to get round 27 of as well as some interesting Beautifully dense andittaut with backward darkand fruits, tannins some Lovely stuff. them, before became quite crowded mygood palate startedand to tire (I’d minerality. already tasted quite a lot94–96 of wines at the IWC). Here are my favourites. [Bear in mind these are cask samples, hence scores, out of 100, are given as a range.] Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 2009 Pauillac Dense, focused and structured with lovely fruit. Concentrated with some new oak showing, as well as lovely structure. Serious effort. 93–95 Château Figeac 2009 St Emilion Lovely focused blackcurrant nose with nice chalky edge. Dense, structured palate with lovely finish. Savoury and quite serious. 93–95 Château Petit Village 2009 Pomerol Beautifully seductive with lovely sweet ripe fruit supported by incredibly soft but dense tannins. A forward, ripe wine but it’s in balance. Very impressive. 93–95 Château Angelus 2009 St Emilion Very supple and bright with lovely density of precise, vibrant dark fruits backed up by firm yet smooth tannins. Great balance. 93–95 see the rest of my notes here.

http://www.wineanorak.com/wineblog/bordeaux/bordeaux-2009-at-the-home-of-cricket 29/04/2010

Château Pontet Canet 2009 Pauillac Beautifully dense and taut with backward dark fruits, good tannins and some minerality. Lovely stuff. 94–96 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 2009 Pauillac Dense, focused and structured with lovely fruit. Concentrated with some new oak showing, as well as lovely structure. Serious effort. 93–95

Château Figeac 2009 St Emilion Lovely focused blackcurrant nose with nice chalky edge. Dense, structured palate with lovely finish. Savoury and quite serious. 93–95 Château Petit Village 2009 Pomerol

am with Philippene de Rothschild of Château Mouton-Rothschild; Clyde Beffa 2009 Baron; Early morning at Château Pichon-Baron.

½* **½+

n the palate. e great, but bit rounder nd focused,

www.klwines.com May 2010

800.247.5987 Tasted at Mouton-Rothschild www.klwines.com May 2010 Château Mouton-Rothschild, Pauillac *** 800.247.5987

88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot. Great, perfumey aromas of cassis and currants mixed with tobacco and cedar wood. Super-concentrated wine, with a finish that lasts a minute or more. Alex: The “iron fist in a velvet glove” analogy strikes again. Ralph: Spicy and lively black fruit with an elegant and very long finish.

2009 Bordeaux 2009 Bordeaux

Château Clerc Milon, Pauillac **+

ty: Pepper and ellent second berry and

Special Report

Special Report *½+

mai Black fruit. A great middle, with lots of pure fruit. This wine really sings. Lush and sweet, with tons of blackberry fruit.

Château d’Armailhac, Pauillac *+ The 2009 Bordeaux Vintage Report: The 2009 Bordeaux Vintage Report: Light red fruit. Good length. At UGC: Very sweet aromas of cherry and

goodPross palate impression. At the property: A touch of whisky barrel? Ralph: “2009=1947X+1982Y+2005Z” K&L’s Jeff Garneau, Alex and Ralph Sands in front of Château Duhart-Milon. Right: Very nice; a fine value. * famous au Latour’s world vineyards. OR . Ralph: Best **

berry fruit dar aromas.

“2009=1947X+1982Y+2005Z” OR Château Pibran, Pauillac ½*V “PURE CASHMERE” Nice blackberry aromas and a fine palate with round tannins. Well made. “PURE CASHMERE” ** Château Pichon-Lalande, Pauillac April 9, 2010, Redwood City, CA—

lower than in 2005, though still a bit higher than the superK&L team has just returned from 75% CabernetThe Sauvignon, 20% Merlot,actually 5% much Petit Verdot. A more Bordeaux, and we’re excited to share ripe 2003 vintage. One note about acidity and longevity: Low acidity has April 9,the 2010, Redwood City, CA— our take on super-hyped 2009 very little impact on the life of some vintages. There are veryTons low-acid masculine style of K&L Pichon, but with great aromas of cedar and cassis. actually much than in 2005, still ayears. bit higher than the superThe has just vintage. Muchteam like our trip to returned from vintages where the wines havelower aged magnificently forthough many, many I Bordeaux, and we’re excited to share ripe 2003 vintage. One note about acidity and longevity: Low acidity has Bordeaux in April 2006 to taste the remembertexture. when I started collecting winebigger in 1971. Many wine people said ** PAUILLAC of ripe fruit and a very sweet middle. Great On the side for 2005our vintage, amid take we on arrived the super-hyped 2009 to quickly drink verytheir little1953s impact thebecause life of they some vintages. There and on 1959s tasted “too good” tooare very low-acid *½+ speculation that this was the Bordeaux Pichon. Ralph: Elegant. Great with sweet middle fruit. Tasty, vintage. Much like ourfreshenss trip to early in theirvintages life. Well,where properly wines from these vintages are still thestored wines have aged magnificently for many, many years. I t.chocolate, At UGC: Red berry aromas vintage, that the wines were nearand tannins work as acollecting preservative in wine, but fruit Bordeaux in April 2006 to taste thequite good. Acids remember whendoI started wine in Pauillac 1971. Many wine people said The of us thought that turned We (meaning me—Clyde, Trey five even now! perfect. is one of theto best preservatives, and 2009 wines have enormous fruit. 2005 vintage, we arrived amid quickly drink their 1953s and 1959s because they tasted “too good” too Beffa, Ralph Sands, Alex Pross and Jeff edge; should age well for ck fruitsitand a speculation this was the Bordeaux in their life. Well,of properly stored from these vintages are still Garneau) met at thethat Compagnie Médocaine In 2009, the early brix levels—the amount sugar in the grapeswines at**½ harvest— Château Pontet-Canet, Pauillac wines inalso2009. Heck, some of thein most vintage, were near-were des Grands Crusthat officesthe for wines a Saturday quitethan good. and tannins work asand a preservative wine, but fruitfam higher any Acids other vintage in recentdomemory, the reasonable. closed and unyielding. Seems me—Clyde, Treyresulting wines perfect. Clyde Beffa Jr tasting of someWe 2009(meaning Bordeaux before were in alcohol than most can remember, with is one ofhigher the best preservatives, and 2009 wines have enormous fruit. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot. Our special Co-owner/Bordeaux Buyer Beffa, Ralph Sands, Alex Pross and Jeff many winesare heading to Château Pichon-Baron for our reaching 14 degrees and above. And still theand wines were we’re easy Bordeaux in Pauillac, not eve taste here.**Ralph: Deep, firstbottle official 2009at tasting. wereGarneau) to spendtasting. only days theseMédocaine metseven at the Compagnie towine. taste—so In sweet, withthe such smooth tannins and sofruits. much fruit. At theWegrapey, Joanne Atasting fabulous Tons of spicy black 2009, brix levels—the amount of sugar in the grapes at harvest— wines (normally we spend nine), so would have put in long desweGrands Crustooffices for adays Saturday At UGC: Great were also higher than any other vintage in recent memory, and the property: aromas with chocolate undertones. and a lotBeffa of driving, “In general, the wines were sweetNo and edges. lush, with high First Growths. ond time we tasted Clyde Jrit. too.Plummy, tasting oaky of some 2009 Bordeaux before resulting wines were higher in alcohol than most can remember, with rrant aromas, Co-owner/Bordeaux Buyer alcohol and lowwines acidity, which, combined heading totasting Château Pichon-Baron our What we found over the course ofTart the week, in somewhat dreary for many reaching 14 degrees and with above. And still the wines were easy Serenity. Alex: blackberry fruit with a touch of spice and good weather conditions coupleWe of clear days, a coupleonly of cold and days rainy tasting days these first official 2009 (a tasting. were to spend seven tremendous ripe fruit flavors mask the massive to taste—so sweet, withto such smooth tannins and so much fruit. epth. Ralph: Bright and fresh. Soinup long sweet, plush fruity the tannins Croizet-Bages, Pauillac and acidity. a few really windy and damp days)so** was vintageTrey: that has held to days wines (normally we spend nine), wea would have toChâteau put tannins andand lingering sweetthat finishes, made them a all the hype. If the 2005s were easy to taste as infants, the 2009s were even ructure. Will and were a lot of driving, too. noticeable. Ralph: Dark blue general, were”Tart sweet and lush, with high hardly fruit. Very delight to“In drink, evenfragrant. atthe thiswines early Jeff: stage. more accessible and easier to taste. In fact, sampling the 200 wines at this it the sample? year’s AtJoanne UGC: Didier Decent flavor, butandthe nosewhich, appears to be holding tasting wasthe as easy as itof ever been—even easier than alcoholand low acidity, combined with What we found over course thehasweek, tasting inlively. somewhat dreary Okay, so weight how did all this sweet-fruited perfection come to be? One word: berries and spice. Bright and Superb texture. tasting the 2007s. The tannin levels in the 2009s are the highest ever

weather conditions (a coupleof of clear days, a couple of cold and rainy days ripe fruit flavors mask the massive hat is sweet, sexy and full Deep fruit, atremendous bit rustic, but theto best I’ve ever had f and a few really windy and damp days) was a vintage that has held up to tannins and lingering sweet finishes, made them a all the hype.red If the 2005s were easy to taste as infants, the 2009s were even epth. Ralph: Deep cherry delight to drink, even at this early stage.” Château Pauillac more accessible and easier to taste. In fact, sampling the 200 wines at this Grand-Puy-Ducasse, year’s Joanne tasting was as easy as it ever has been—even easier than he second time we tasted it. Okay, so how did all this sweet-fruited perfection come to be? One word: Tough tasting the 2007s. The tannin levels in the 2009s are the highest ever and tannic. Was it the sample? weather. The vintage’s perfect weather conditions lead to perfect ripening recorded at most properties, the alcohol levels are as high as Bordeaux and an overall fantastic vintage. It was never too hot or too cold, too wet can get, and the wines are as concentrated as we have ever tasted in our or too dry. I had a hunch the vintage was going to be great back in June 25 years of coming to Bordeaux, and still the wines were a piece of cake 2009 when I attended VinExpo and the weather was bright and sunny to taste—except for one nasty Tuesday where we were pummeled by every day, with temperatures in the high 70s. super-highwinds and low barometric pressure. How could that be, you ask? In general, the wines were sweet and lush, with high alcohol and low How do the wines compare to other vintages? The 2009s are in the style weather. perfect acidity, which, combined with tremendous ripe fruit flavors to mask the of the super-silky 1970sThe andvintage’s 1982s—gentle, fat,weather and sweet.conditions Many old- lead to perfect ripening recorded at most properties, the alcohol levels are as high as Bordeaux massive tannins and lingering sweet finishes, made them a delight to andresemble an overall fantastic vintage. It was too hot or too cold, too wet timers say they the 1947s! Noted négociant Bill never Blatch describes can get, and the wines are as concentrated as we have ever tasted in our drink even at this early stage. In fact, they were so fresh, lively and vibrant or too dry.ofI1947, had awith hunch the of vintage was going to be great back in June them as a combination 63 years winemaking improve25 of coming to Bordeaux, still2005s, the wines were piece of cake thatyears they seemed to have high acidity and like the but acid levelsa were ments and experience (1947X) and 1982, with controlled 2009 when I attended VinExpo and thevineyard weatheryields was bright and sunny

**½+

Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Pauillac

to taste—except for one nasty pummeled by elegance together. Tons of Tuesday lush,where we wereGood every day, with temperatures in the high 70s. and depth—superb. super-highwinds and low barometric pressure. How could that be, length you ask? In general, the wines were sweet and lush, with high alcohol and low wine of the vintage; this wine How do the wines compare to other vintages? The 2009s are in the style acidity, which, combined with tremendous ripe fruit flavors to mask the of the super-silky 1970s and 1982s—gentle, fat, and sweet. Many oldChâteau Haut-Bages Libéral, Pauillac tannins and lingering sweet finishes, made them a delight to r almost goes massive by unnoticed. timers say they resemble the 1947s! Noted négociant Bill Blatch describes drink even at this early stage. In fact, they were so fresh, lively and vibrant them as a combination of 1947, with 63 years of winemaking improveUGC: ripe wine, with mint and orange that they seemed to have high acidity but acid levels were A very ments and experience (1947X) and 1982, with controlled vineyard yields ed wines of the trip, though it like the 2005s, At to a point. Samples were variable. ness. Ralph: All of the above, reat freshness! Château Duhart-Milon, Pauillac Red bell pepper aromas with toasted oak nuances *½+V spice 25 on the finish. Superb length. Alex: This wine with such purity of fruit and Carruades de Lafite, Pauillac

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Terre de Vins - Mai/Juin 2010

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%). Interestingly, while Petit Mouton is ally served after d’armailhac and Clerc on, just before Mouton itself, this year it s offered first. one can see why. Pleasing her than special. 2013–20. 15.5/16?

with subtle flavors, long tannins—definitely one of the best wines of the past 30 years from this property. 17.5/18 MS: rich, blackcurrant, Cabernet nose; nicely but not excessively concentrated middleweight, generous, fleshy, fresh; a very fine-grained tannin around an abundantly, juicily, freshly ripe blackcurrant fruit; long, velvety, gracious, and subtly mouth-coating, with a fine gravel scent behind the ripe fruit and great length on the finish—as in the best of these wines, an extraordinary fruit length alongside the aromas. Tasty yet restrained dsplendor. o w n ) 2020–35+. 17.5/18

b o r d E a U

distinguished, harmonious, but not quite good as the very best of the seco growths. 17 MS: Mineral and fresh, ripe-fruit nose; v nicely balanced, elegant, supple w moderately concentrated, with fine, gen tannin and fresh acidity; ripe, easy, juicy, a fragrant St-Julien, very beychevelle; gen complexity, good sweet fruit, light minera and sweet, cedary length. Compl restrained, and quietly classy. Classic, e gratifying-without-being-grand beycheve will be nice early on because it has s a graceful, easygoing personality. Perf lighter-style claret. 2015–25+. 16/16+

âteau pédesclaux – 16.5/17 /TD: Super-ripe black fruit explodes from glass. wonderfully smooth on the palate, nd, well-balanced, with nice acidity. The nins are perceptible but perfectly grated into this balanced wine. a new ection for this property, which was bought a few months ago by Monsieur (laying enzetti, president of the racing rugby WineS that WiLL BeneFit FROm FuRtheR matuRatiOn m, who already owns ChâteauyOung LilianRéserve de la Comtesse – 16/16.5+ ouys. 16.5/17 (50% harvest; 53% CS, 38% M, 9% CF) Château Branaire 4ème Cru – 17.5 MS: a spicy, blackcurrant fruit on the nose; (65% CS, 28% M, 4% PV, 3% CF) âteau pibran Cru Bourgeois – 15/15.5+ very nicely balanced, elegant middleweight MB/TD: The most well behaved of all % harvest; 60% CS, 40% M) with a fine-grained, light, dry tannin; vivid, St-Juliens wines we tasted, offering gr Freshly ripe, intense blackcurrant nose, freshly ripe fruit flavor, crisp and sweet and substance and perfectly controlled tann tle gravel behind; very nicely balanced, long; a fine, firm, linear claret with remarkable and great aromatic diversity. a great win All are agreed that it is a stellar red-wine vintage, ply rich, vital middleweight, with a very length for a second wine, which suggests a this great vintage. 18 but it is far more heterogenous inwonderful style than many people realize. rained tannin; a nice mid-palate fine, long aging curve. freshness, MS: a fine, fruit-packed nose of r Followingdefinition, his annual and château tastings, Michael Schuster his mplexity and excellent cassis fruit length. persistence, doubtless due inshares blackberry and mineral; very nicely balan the vintage andto recommends theall topthe wines for quality sh, complete Pibran. 2014–20+. 15/15.5+view oflarge measure the fact that vividly indeed. rich, with a fairly firm but beautif and value.Cabernet Additional commentary notes by fragrant Franc wentand into this. textured tannin alongside the year’s fr Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve âteau pichon-Longueville Baron 2ème Lovely! 2017–30. 16/16.5+ acidity; lovely concentration, long, r – 18 dry and gravelly, complex and generou Summing up the a large and healthy fruit-set, fat with 2009 vintage Château pontet-Canet 5ème Cru – 18 % harvest; 66% CS, 33% M) promise by early July.classic, harmonious, middleweight clare  The best red wines are probably Summer Compared with the ten/TD: beautiful color, but the wine isn’t harvest; 65% CS, 30% M, 4% CF,year 1%average, PV) the months restrained power with a great tenacity the finest since 1959 or(70% 1961. from July  Great wines throughout the through late October were notable te in place yet: the volume on the palate MB/TD: The property has opted for purity flavor and excellent length. a joyous f region, but Merlot was trickier to get for longer actual hours of sunshine, mmense, but the Merlot is weighing and elegance over massive structurehigher in this “right” than Cabernet Sauvignon. mean temperatures mass (by at aits heart, yet all the elegance of  A stylistic conundrum, with a couple of degrees, but with fewer wn the wine now and hiding the usual vintage, and it was an excellent choice. our St-Julien. great deal of variation that is not August extremes than in 2005 or a beauty; a very complete brana to winemaking fads. and lower rainfall. In fact, 16.5/17 erality found in this terroir. Thedue élevage entire team was enamored with the2003), natural 2018–30+.  High alcohol levels. both the average minimum and  Good, the ample dry whites, but not a and the superlative finesse average maximum temperatures uld be followed closely, since, given aromas of its patch on the previous three vintages. were higher than the decade average mension of the wine, it should come tannins. Château  Some great Sauternes, but a a very complete wine, and ainperfect every month from March to Ducru-Beaucaillou 2ème Cru – 1 mixed performance. example of the customary triumph of October. There was, however, just ether nicely. 17.5+ david (85% CS, 15% M)  A late-ripening year after very about sufficient moisture to keep warm and and particularly dry most of the vines’ thirst slaked, andThere is no doubt that this is dense, ripe blackberry/blackcurrant over goliath. 19 MB/TD: conditions. the lack of August heat spikes meant tle, mineral nose; promises a wonderful MS: wine  Exceptionally healthy fruit. a very ripe, jellied, blackberry, thatsweet there was lessbest “blocking” of they’ve made in the past 50 ye  Prolonged harvest in perfect weather. No operational tannin ripening than in 2005. It was a very warm and dry sis bouquet! great scope and range just Merlot fruit to smell, with Cabernet spice as and it’s one of the chefs d’oeuvres of difficulties; the challenge was when to pick which parcels. summer but not a stressful one for the vines—unlike 2003  A good-size, averagerich harvestand of 5.745fresh, million hl:beautifully especially, or 2005. There was also wave” as such, its harmonious power and refin smell. beautifully balanced, supple yet currentwell; balanced inno “heatvintage: 1 percent or so more than 2007 and 2002; 4 percent less than and the nights remained relatively cool, maintaining the h, rich and finely tannic wine, an less than the ofin the year; verythe aromas fragrance 2005; 14 percent 2004.characteristic style acidity the grapes and allowing to develop and the taffeta-like quality of rather than disappear. ortless, grand-scale balance; sweetly ripe finely tannic texture and lively acidity; a tannins can serve as an example for Caber The growing season: a relatively simple story Winter/spring growing season was relatively Harvest: six weeks of almost uninterrupted blue t, fresh definition, no hard edges; long, The delicious mass of sweet core fruit, generous, Sauvignons the world over. 19.5 straightforward: a cold, dry winter and early spring, with skies and sunshine. Easy! se-wrought, gravelly, mouth-coating, fleshy, vivid, long across the harvest palate, with aearly inMS: I was plenty of nourishing rainfall in January, April, May, and June Dry-white This took place September in disappointed in this the first t build up moisture reserves in the soil. May was mostly perfect conditions. tly spicy, resonantly aromatic.to a very refined Pauillac tannin and muscle—a gentle around (and the wine was guaranteed as warm and sunny, but hailstorms in the middle of the month Sweet-white harvest This also proceeded under cloudless damagedand vineyards (and therefore yield) in the southern skies, overlength a remarkablyof short period. Suchfinal abundantassembly) and , aristocratic baron, with great fruit muscle—and with excellent fruit so retasted a week la Médoc (Cantenac, Arsac, Labarde), Léognan and the healthy botrytis set in so rapidly after the modest rain on eral length. Probably its finest wine for a and gently minerally aromas. Very fine, Very mineral to smell; gentle, persistent, r southern Graves, Entre-Deux-Mers, and east and northeast September 19 and 20 that most properties picked the bulk St-Emilion. Flowering was rapid and even, and it was of their grapes as one giant trie between September 28 and ple of generations. 2020–40+. 18/18.5 complete Pontet-Canet. 2020–35+. 17/17.5+ fruit; elegantly concentrated middlewei over by mid-June in perfect warm conditions, producing October 9. wine, harmonious and very finely balanc relles de Longueville – 15/15+ St-Julien with a delicately dry tannin and fr % harvest; 60% M, 25% CS, 15% CF) MB/TD: we were delighted by the overall acidity; sweet fruit and subtle minerality Sweet but freshly ripe blackberry fruit quality in this appellation, and it’s with a bit flavor, restrained, gentlemanly, poised, a e, where you notice the new wood just of regret that, through the 20-point system, complex, with the usual quiet class a touch; very nicely balanced, quite we are obliged to create a hierarchy of very refined tannin texture; long in

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Original illustration by Charles Martin, L’Art de Boire, Etablissements Nicolas, Paris, 1920

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L’Amateur de Bordeaux - Juin/Juillet/Août 2010 L’Amateur de Bordeaux - Juin/Juillet/Août 2010

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Le blog du Grand Jury juin

Bordeaux primeurs 2009 : notes du GJE

Le blog du Grand Jury

Comme l'an dernier, pour ceux que cela intŽresse, vous trouverez ci-dessous la moyenne des notes des 3 dŽgustateurs du GJE qui "font" l'ensemble des dŽgustations primeurs 2009 : notes du GJE primeurs : Bordeaux Abi Duhr, Bernard Burtschy, Jacques Perrin. La quasi totalitŽ de ces vins a ŽtŽ dŽgustŽ par ces 3 membres du GJE. Comme l'an dernier, pour ceux que cela intŽresse, vous trouverez ci-dessous la moyenne des notes des 3 dŽgustateurs du GJE qui "font" l'ensemble des dŽgustations primeurs : Abi Duhr, Bernard Burtschy, Jacques Perrin. La quasi totalitŽ de ces vins a ŽtŽ dŽgustŽ par ces 3 membres du GJE.

Pontet-Canet Ð Pauillac - 93 Pontet-Canet Ð Pauillac - 93

Leblog blog du Ð 07 juinjuin 20102010 Le du Grand GrandJury Jury Ð 07 34

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Bordeaux 2009: Flood of releases as L'Evangile, Malescot triple '08 prices - decanter.... Page 1 sur 2

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Latest News Bordeaux 2009: Flood of releases as L'Evangile, Malescot triple '08 prices June 17, 2010 Latest News by Jane Anson in Bordeaux With a flood of Bordeaux chateaux releasing their 2009 vintages, prices are reaching unprecedented levels. Bordeaux 2009: Flood of releases as L'Evangile, Malescot triple '08 prices June 17, 2010 Malescot Saint Exupery, a Margaux second by Jane Anson in Bordeaux growth that is traditionally fairly low profile but scored 95-97 with Parker this year, rose 150% With a flood of Bordeaux chateaux releasing on its 2008 price, coming out at Đ55 extheir 2009 vintages, prices are reaching Bordeaux. unprecedented levels. L'Evangile in Pomerol received 96-100 from Parker, and rose in price to Đ180 exMalescot Saint Exupery, a Margaux second Bordeaux, again tripling its 2008 price, and doubling that of 2005. growth that is traditionally fairly low profile but scored 95-97 with Parker this year, rose 150% Related links: on its 2008 price, coming out at Đ55 ex LIVE: see the prices as they're released Bordeaux.  Released Bordeaux 2009 prices  Full Decanter Bordeaux 2009 scoresfrom andParker, tasting and notes L'Evangile in Pomerol received 96-100 rose in price to Đ180 ex Bordeaux: thetripling big fiveitsquestions Bordeaux, again 2008 price, and doubling that of 2005. Related links: More major chateaux areasnow starting to release, with recent prices including Petit  LIVE: see the prices they're released Mouton (second wine of 2009 Mouton Rothschild) at Đ60 ex Bordeaux (up 33% on 2005),  Released Bordeaux prices and Forts de Latour (second2009 winescores of Latour) Đ89 ex-Bordeaux (up 85% on 2005.)  Full Decanter Bordeaux andat tasting notes  Bordeaux: the big five questions Also released were Chateau d'Issan (Đ39.60), Canon La Gaffeliere (Đ59), Chateau Clinet (Đ70), Chateau Beychevelle (Đ44), Chateau Rauzan Segla (Đ60), and Chateau Lagrange (Đ37.20). More major chateaux are now starting to release, with recent prices including Petit Mouton (second wine of Mouton Rothschild) at Đ60 ex Bordeaux (up 33% on 2005), Troplong Mondot - which scored highly with Robert Parker but was criticised for high and Forts de Latour (second wine of Latour) at Đ89 ex-Bordeaux (up 85% on 2005.) alcohol by many others - stayed unchanged from its 2005 price at Đ90 (a rise of 118% from 2008). Also released were Chateau d'Issan (Đ39.60), Canon La Gaffeliere (Đ59), Chateau Clinet (Đ70), Chateau Beychevelle (Đ44), Chateau Rauzan Segla (Đ60), and Chateau Reactions to the prices from inside and outside Bordeaux are mixed. Lagrange (Đ37.20). Troplong Mondot - which scored highly with Robert Parker but was criticised for high Sylvie Cazes, director of the Union des Grand Crus and owner of Lynch Bages, told alcohol by many others - stayed unchanged from its 2005 price at Đ90 (a rise of 118% decanter.com: 'The campaign is going very well. Most people are very happy and the from 2008). majority of wines are selling through the chain very quickly.' Reactions to the prices from inside and outside Bordeaux are mixed. Many UK merchants are reporting that they are finding it tough to meet demand. Neil Pinel, Managing Director of Dunnell's Wines in Jersey said: 'Orders are piling in Sylvie Cazes, director of the Union des Grand Crus and owner of Lynch Bages, told this morning for Bordeaux 09s, and I'm struggling to get enough stock'. decanter.com: 'The campaign is going very well. Most people are very happy and the majority of wines are selling through the chain very quickly.' In Hong Kong, Berry Bros is reporting that its entire allocation of Pontet Canet (Đ72 first tranche, Đ85 second tranche) sold out in less than two hours. Many UK merchants are reporting that they are finding it tough to meet demand. Others merchants, however, are sounding notes of alarm – though few wish to be Neil Pinel, Managing Director of Dunnell's Wines in Jersey said: 'Orders are piling in named. this morning for Bordeaux 09s, and I'm struggling to get enough stock'. One merchant in Holland said, 'I hate these prices, and worry that this is all leading to a In Hong Kong, Berry Bros is reporting that its entire allocation of Pontet Canet (Đ72 first crash', while a leading UK merchant commented: 'If the Bordelais believe correct tranche, Đ85 second tranche) sold out in less than two hours. pricing means pricing at the very lip of the precipice, they have done well.' Others merchants, however, are sounding notes of alarm – though few wish to be 'If they aim to give their customers a return on their purchase, they have failed named. miserably. Of my top 20 customers, 17 have bought nothing. Nor will they. Apply that nationally and Bordeaux is digging a vast hole for itself. Unless it plans to relocate to One merchant in Holland said, 'I hate these prices, and worry that this is all leading to a Asia that is,' he said. crash', while a leading UK merchant commented: 'If the Bordelais believe correct pricing means pricing at the very lip of the precipice, they have done well.' More major releases are expected over the next few days. 'If they aim to give their customers a return on their purchase, they have failed Follow us on Twitter miserably. Of my top 20 customers, 17 have bought nothing. Nor will they. Apply that nationally and Bordeaux is digging a vast hole for itself. Unless it plans to relocate to Have say... Asia thatyour is,' he said. To post your comment on this story, email us at news@decanter.com More major releases are expected over the next few days. Follow us on Twitter

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2009

Latest News Demand not matching Bordeaux 2009 hype, say US merchants June 17, 2010 by Panos Kakaviatos

Latest News

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American merchants are reporting seeing little consumer demand as Bordeaux 2009 en primeur prices continue to be released. Demand not matching Bordeaux 2009 hype, say US merchants June 17, 2010 Reacting to the releases so far this week, by Panos several USKakaviatos merchants have said that despite the hype surrounding the vintage, sales are American are reporting seeing little below whatmerchants they'd expected. consumer demand as Bordeaux 2009 en primeur prices to be 'This is not like continue 2001, when thereleased. 2000 campaign was underway and clients had not seen a great vintage in a while,' said Elliott Staren, owner of Wide World of Wines in Reacting to the releases so far this week, Washington D.C. several US merchants have said that despite the hype links: surrounding the vintage, sales are Related below what they'd expected.  LIVE: see the prices as they're released  Released Bordeaux 2009 prices 'This is not like 2001, when the 2000 campaign was underway and clients had not seen  Full Decanter Bordeaux 2009 scores and tasting notes agreat vintagethe in abig while,' said Elliott Staren, owner of Wide World of Wines in Bordeaux: five questions Washington D.C. Relatedhave links:full cellars already; they bought 2003s, 2005s, some 2006s, and they 'People  LIVE: see the prices their as they're released have not even received 2008s.'  Released Bordeaux 2009 prices  Premier Full Decanter scores and tasting notes At Cru in Bordeaux California,2009 senior wine seller Michael Glasby agreed.  Bordeaux: the big five questions 'People with an interest to sell the wine are trying to build the hype. The hype is almost 'People have full2005 cellars they bought 2005s, some and they identical [to the andalready; 2000 vintages], but 2003s, on the other side, the2006s, demand side is have notlike even received 2008s.' nothing it was for thetheir 2005, and even less so than for the 2000 [upon release]. At Premier Cru insobriety California, senior seller Michael he Glasby 'There is greater on the partwine of the consumer,' said. agreed. Some wines are selling through, however. Sellers also notice a vivid correlation 'People with interest to sell theprices wine are trying to build the hype. The hype is almost between highan Parker scores and - 'more than we have seen before,' Glasby identical [to the 2005 and 2000 vintages], but on the other side, the demand side is said. nothing like it was for the 2005, and even less so than for the 2000 [upon release]. Despite the price hike, Potential 100-point Parker wines such as Pontet Canet, have 'There is greater on the part of the consumer,' he said. sold through, bothsobriety merchants said. Some wines selling Sellers alsolast notice a vivid correlation 'It seems we are have done through, well withhowever. Pontet Canet in the couple of days, Glasby said. between high $100,' Parkerhe scores and prices - the 'more than we have seen before,' Glasby 'At just under added, stressing initial price. said. Other wines so far released have gotten mixed reviews. Despite the price hike, Potential 100-point Parker wines such as Pontet Canet, have soldStaren, through,wines both like merchants said.Lacoste, Gruaud Larose and Giscours with For Grand Puy somewhat lower Parker numbers are seeing little demand, although Glasby says that 'It seems weare have done'rather well with CanetCru. in the last couple of days, Glasby said. these wines doing well'Pontet for Premier 'At just under $100,' he added, stressing the initial price. Another worry is if the euro falls further against the dollar by the time 2009s are on the Other which wines is soafar released have gotten futures, mixed reviews. shelf, 'disincentive' for buying Glasby said. For the Staren, Puy Lacoste, Gruaud Larose andChinese Giscours with On otherwines hand like 'theGrand big mystery is China,' he added. 'If the are going to buy somewhat numbers are seeingislittle demand, these wineslower uponParker release, then the interest to buy now.' although Glasby says that these wines are doing 'rather well' for Premier Cru. J’aime le premier vos amis à indiquer que by vous Another worry isSoyez if the euro falls de further against the dollar theaimez time ça. 2009s are on the shelf, which is a 'disincentive' for buying futures, Glasby said.

On the other hand 'the big mystery is China,' he added. 'If the Chinese are going to buy these wines upon release, then the interest is to buy now.'

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WEEKEND COLUMNISTS JANCIS ROBINSON WEEKEND COLUMNISTS FT Home > Weekend > Weekend columnists > Jancis Robinson JANCIS ROBINSON

juillet a price to pay Bordeaux 2009s: there’s FT Home > Weekend > Weekend columnists > Jancis Robinson

By Jancis Robinson Bordeaux 2009s: there’s a price to pay Published: July 3 2010 00:13 | Last updated: July 3 2010 00:13 By Jancis Robinson

FROM PINK TO PURP

Published: July 3 2010 00:13 | Last updated: July 3 2010 00:13

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15 per cent off membership of J EvenEven Bordeaux’s château admit to sky surprise atof the sky inhigh prices of theGet 2009s, in £59, a $84, Đ64, Au Bordeaux’s château ownersowners admit to surprise at the high prices the 2009s, a Purple Pages. For testy campaign designed to attract as many euros as possible to France’s fine wine capital. readers will get top recommendation testy The campaign designed to attract as many euros as possible to France’s fine wine capital. with other members and enjoy unlim campaign is finally drawing to a close, in time for France’s long holidays, with some UK world’ssome only online versions of the a The campaign finally 2009 drawing todesigned a close, in up time France’s long holidays, with UK merchants evenis suggesting prices are to prop thosefor of the 2005s. classic Oxford Companion to Wine a merchants even suggesting 2009 prices are designed to prop up those of the 2005s. sensationally detailed maps of the W Four years ago the prices for Bordeaux’s last exceptional vintage, 2005, seemed quite

extraordinarily audacious and we thought we would never see their like again. But, in the embryonic, unbottled 2009s have been offered at prices between 50 per cent and 100 Four event, years ago theopening prices forand Bordeaux’s exceptional vintage, per cent up on 2005 prices, some are evenlast approaching 2005 current prices.

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2005, seemed quite extraordinarily audacious and we thought we would never see their like again. But, in the What is sure is that the 2009 prices make the 2008 vintage look like the bargain of the decade. event, 2009s have at ofprices Theembryonic, 2008 versions ofunbottled the first growths, the most famousbeen wines ofoffered all and a sort price between 50 per cent and 100 barometer for any vintage, were initially offered toand Bordeaux negociants, or merchants, at per cent up on 2005 opening prices, some are even approaching 2005 current prices. around Đ100 a bottle. This may seem like robust pricing by any measure but the opening prices for the 2009 first growths varied between Đ450 for Lafite, Margaux and Mouton and for Latour WhatĐ500 is sure is and thatHaut-Brion. the 2009 prices make the 2008 vintage look

like the bargain of the decade. The 2008 versions first growths, theeach most famous wines of all and a sort of price However, these pricesof for the the first tranche of wine from prices property tell a small part of the story. The top châteaux barometer foronly any vintage, were initially offered Eye-watering to Bordeaux negociants, or merchants, at Some notable prices per bottle have got into the habit of offering their young, unbottled around Đ100 a bottle. This may seemcampaign, like robustfrompricing bynegociants: any measure but the opening châteaux to wines in at least two tranches during the primeur with demand the first tranche dictating varied the price ofbetween the LeĐ450 Pin Đ1,050 prices for the for 2009 first growths for Lafite, Margaux and Mouton and second. This year the first growth tranches were smaller than Cheval Blanc Đ900 Đ500ever, for making Latour and Haut-Brion. it impossible for those merchants around the Ausone Đ800 world who bought it to set a price until the second tranche had been announced, generally at Đ100, Đ200 for Cheval, HautBrion, Latour Đ600 above the first. The really scary that demand for the However, these prices for thing theisfirst tranche of wine from each Lafite, Margaux, Mouton top wines seems to have been as exceptional as the vintage Đ550 property tell only a small part of the story. The top châteaux itself even if it is not clear how many people are buying to Source: Liv-ex. com howthe many for investment. havedrink gotand into habit of offering their young, unbottled

Eye-watering prices Some notable prices per bottle

from châteaux to negociants: winesToin at least tranches during the primeur campaign, observers, the two process of offering this particular vintage has seemed either infuriating or absurd, depending on their interest in actually buying the the winesprice produced the exceptionally with demand for the first tranche dictating ofbythe Le Pin Đ1,050 propitious growing conditions of 2009. Never before have so many second wines been dripped second. This year first growth tranches smaller than on to the market in a the coy attempt to gauge demand for theirwere more serious stablemates. Cheval Blanc Đ900 ever, making it impossible for those merchants around the negociants say the bulk of sales have been to merchants and traders in the UK – even ifAusone Đ800 worldThe who to set price thegeneration secondBordeaux tranche many arebought banking onitselling themaon to Asia.until As eighth merchant Pierre Lawton of Alias put it: “England has been massive. I’ve been surprised by how important theHautBrion, Latour Đ600 had been announced, generally at Đ100, Đ200 for Cheval, UK has been. Sales to the US have been much more modest than usual, although the weaker above the The really scary thing is that demand for the euro hasfirst. helped.” Lafite, Margaux, Mouton INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS top wines seems to have been as exceptional as the vintage Đ550 is not the only thing that has surprised him about the 2009 primeur campaign. “I thought In part one of the FT's International Bu itself This even if it isbenot clear many people buying to more demand would spread acrosshow the board in terms of qualityare but it’s been much series, learn more about investment op Source: Liv-ex. com weighted towards the top end. In fact it has been quite difficult to sell wines below Đ40 a in central and eastern Europe post-rec drink and how many for investment. bottle ... There seems to have been a lot of speculative buying.”

sold out immediately – Below the top rank, have been all over the place. châteauxvintage To observers, the prices process of offering this Some particular has seemed either infuriating or Pontet-Canet, offered initially to the negociants at Đ72 (exactly the same as Léoville-Poyferré, RELATED SERVICE absurd, depending on their in actually produced by the exceptionally Lynch-Bages and Montrose), was ainterest particular success this yearbuying with ownerthe Alfredwines Tesseron able to place his entire and substantial offering in 30 minutes. Ducru-Beaucaillou and Figeac FT Lexicon propitious growing conditions of 2009. Never before have so many second wines been dripped MBA-Dir on the other hand struggled to find buyers at their respective prices of Đ180 and Đ160, nearly FT New FT Bespoke Forums on tothree thetimes market inopening a coyprice. attempt to gauge demand for their more serious stablemates. FT Diari Market research the 2008 Growth companies

FT Conf

FT Synd Corporate subscriptions Pricing is clearly critical, although the means by which it is arrived at is still decidedly quaint, Luxury Travel brochures relying as it does say on hundreds of oblique discussions between producers, Bordeaux’s 300 The negociants the bulk of sales have been to merchants and traders in the UK – even if The Non Analyst Research and the 93 courtiers, or brokers, who negotiate between them. It would be more manynegociants, are banking them on to Asia. Asopening eighth than a broker’s careeron wasselling worth to let slip a producer’s intended pricegeneration before it was Bordeaux merchant Pierre announced or, worse, how many cases on offer in total. I’ve been surprised by how important the Lawton of Alias put exactly it: “England has were been massive.

UK has been. Sales to the US have been much more modest than usual, although the weaker Partly to retain this mystery, château owners use several different brokers to sell one year’s most important quality in a broker, who receives a flat two per cent commission from euro wine. hasThe helped.” the negociant, is tact. They have to mediate between owners who invariably want to ask too much for their wines and what the key negociants say they feel the wine is worth. As Tesseron says: “If I the price only my wine too low, everyone my wine ishim bad. Ifabout I price my wine2009 too high, is not thing that hasthinks surprised the primeur everyone thinks I’m mad. The brokers’ job is to translate, in a very polite way, what I say.”

This campaign. “I thought demand would be spread across the board in terms of quality but it’s been much more Prices are typically announced the early France. After aquite series of calls to each weighted towards the top inend. In morning fact itinhas been difficult to sell wines below Đ40 a individual negociant, the broker reports back to the anxious château owner. The bull's-eye is bottlefor...all There seems to have beenforatheir lotentire of speculative buying.” negociants to place orders immediately allocation. “I’ll think it over,” is circumlocutory Bordeaux wine trade speak for a sniggering, “You cannot be serious”.

Below the rank, prices been all toover the place. châteaux sold out immediately – Prize for top the most ambitious pricehave rises this year goes the Haut-Brion stable Some whose opening price of Đ540/ for La Mission Haut-Brion is the nearlynegociants three times more than the 2005 opening FT.com Weekend columnists / Jancis Robinson Bordeaux 2009s: there’s a price to... Pontet-Canet, offered initially to at Đ72 (exactly the same as Léoville-Poyferré, price, as shown on the revealing tables on www.liv-ex.com while, as usual, the LVMH effect Lynch-Bages and a luxurious particular has inflated the priceMontrose), of Cheval Blanc was to a truly level. success this year with owner Alfred Tesseron able Are to place his entire and substantial offering in 30 minutes. Ducru-Beaucaillou and Figeac 2009s overpriced? One prominent, Bordeaux wine negociant confessed to me last week on the to find buyers at oftheir respective prices of Đ180 and Đ160, nearly thatother his wife,hand reactingstruggled like so many others to the combination low interest rates and the general excitement over the 2009 vintage, had been urging him to use his specialist knowledge threeto times the 2008 opening price. invest in it. “I’m not buying any 2009s,” he told me firmly, adding, “Not now anyway. Maybe later.”

50 means Pricing clearly critical, although the by pages which See is tasting notes on more than 500 2009 bordeaux on the Purple of it is arrived at is still decidedly quaint, www.jancisrobinson.com relying as it does on hundreds of oblique discussions between producers, Bordeaux’s 300

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Les Echos sĂŠrie limitĂŠe 51- 09 Juillet 2010

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       

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     

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                                                                                                                                                                                                              

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Farr Vintners Blog

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http://www.farrvintners.com/blog.php?archive=201008 http://www.farrvintners.com/blog.php?archive=201008

                                

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    

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2009

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2009

septembre

2009

decembre

2009 James Suckling | Reports

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decembre  Bordeaux  December 31th, 2010





Bordeaux Blend

This is more intense on the nose than the 2000, with blackberries, currant bush, and flowers. Amazing pure Cabernet nose. Big and dense, yet agile with polished powerful 98/100  showing wonderful length. A fabulous wine here. A super clean 1990, The 2009 vintage is the greatest moderntannins. vintageItofisour time for Bordeaux. Believe in the hype. which was one of the great Montroses. Barrel sample. 98+ $$ Over the last five months, I have traveled to Bordeaux twice and retasted 2009 barrel samples of the top 50 or so wineries, and I have been blown away how the wines have improved. “The wines keep getting better and better,” says Alfred Tesseron, the owner of Pauillac’s Pontet Canet, one of the stars of the vintage – and I have to agree. 2009  

I began tasting 2009 Bordeaux in March 2010. The reds show amazing intensity with opulent fruit and ultra-ripe tannins, yet  they remain fresh and crisp at the same time. It’s that contrast in structure that defines great Bordeaux. The dry whites are France Beautiful aromas of blackberries, minerals, cassis, and mint. This is phenomenal stuff. I  also excellent as are the sweet wines. remember tasting this in March, and thinking it was gorgeous then, but it is fabulous Bordeaux  now. Truly classicMoueix, young wine. 98+ wine $$ estates as Petrus, Trotanoy, Blend It’s not by chanceBordeaux that the usually conservative Christian whoseBarrel familysample. owns such La Fleur-Petrus, 2009 Hosanna, Magdelaine and others, calls 2009 “the vintage of his career.” 98/100

 Granted, the top wines are insanely expensive. It’s hard to believe that people around the world – many in the Far East -- are willing to spend up to $5,000 a bottle for some 2009s such as Petrus. Most of the first growths are selling between $2,000 and $1,000 a bottle. Second growths, such as Ducru-Beaucaillou and Cos d’Estournel, are trading for about $280 to $350 a bottle.

I kept reminding myself that it’s only wine, and it’s their money. But I have to wonder how much of this is bought for   investment and how much is for consumption? That’s another blog. France This is a departure from the old style of Palmer. It is flamboyant and exciting now. It is  The excitement for me with 2009 will be not finding lesser-known prices. what Bordeaux drinkers shy all anythe more. The nose wines jumps at outgreat of the glassThat’s with blackberries, blueberries, Bordeaux  should focus on this yearBlend when the less chocolate, famous 2009s on Full the market. and start hintsarriving of vanilla. bodied, with velvety tannins and a long, long finish. Bordeaux  This is so intense with a spice and blueberry character from the Petit Verdot (7%) and 2009  I will be in Bordeaux numerous times this year to discover the gems for $15 to $40 a bottle. I will also be tasting the big name the rest from the Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. This is the best young wine I have 98/100These will begin arriving in December. 2009s in bottle on the market in 2012. ever tasted from here. Barrel sample. 98+ $$ I remember all the great values in 2005, 2003, 2000 and older vintages. It’s going to be fun. In fact, I still have some beautiful 1989 crus bourgeois that are drinking beautifully now. I drank a delicious 1989 Lafon Rochet for lunch today and it showed beautiful character of Indian spices, dried dark fruits and forest floor. It was balanced and refined, with delicate fruit. It was really fresh.   The 2009 vintageFrance is a year that anyone who is going to want Petrus to havewith a few bottles or cases of toned these tannins. This loves is big Bordeaux and powerful. A muscular broad shoulders and  tremendous wines in their cellar. Nice deep fruit, with lots of plums and dark berries. I am very impressed with the length Bordeaux  and power in this wine. It is supple and fresh. masterful density. Bordeaux  The following wines wereBlend tasted from barrel in Bordeaux. The scores represent rangesAwith a pluswine sign,showing such as great 93+/100. It Barrel sample. 98+ $$ 2009  means a wine shows the potential to be 93 points or more out of 100 points when it is finally bottled. 

98/100

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  France   

France Bordeaux

 

Bordeaux Bordeaux Blend

 

Bordeaux 2009 Blend

 

2009 98/100



90/100

  France   

France Sauternes

 

Bordeaux Other Varietal

 

Bordeaux 2009 Blend

 

2009 98/100



92/100

 

Amazing nose and complexity and minerals, tars, lead blackberries, and blueberries. What Full body withfruit, amazing balance precision. Dense and wonderful. This hasintensity. a nice balance, good cinnamon, andand other spices on the nose. Full Whatand clarity and beauty. 98+ $$ bodied delicious, hints Long of milkfinish. chocolate and fruit. Lovely balance and a long finish rounds this wine out. Barrel sample. 90+ $$

 

This is intense and very rich with a very sweet tropical fruit character from mangos, pineapples, andnotes papayas. Full bodied lively, much going on. I love This is juicy, with of berries, plums,and mint, and with driedsoflowers. Full bodied, withthe a intensity this. Thelength. botrytisOverall is almost burning. sample. wine. 98+ $$ silky palate to and good a very prettyBarrel and balanced Barrel sample. 92+ $$

2008

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2008

mars

2008

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James Suckling | Reports

decembre  

France

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Bordeaux

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Bordeaux Blend

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2008



93/100

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Palmer knows what to do. Plenty of blackberry and licorice aromas and flavors follow through to full body, with chewy tannins and a vanilla, cedar and chocolate aftertaste. Needs time to mellow. Layered and beautiful. Best after 2012. $$

 December 20th, 2010

If you love drinking Bordeaux, you are going to love 2008. I just finished tasting a few hundred of the to premium wine region, and I was impressed with the overall quality of the wines. Another good thing is to 50 percent less than current prices for the same wines in 2009.

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France

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Bordeaux

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Bordeaux Blend

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2008



93/100

I spent about a week in Bordeaux tasting bottled reds, dry whites and Sauternes, both in blind tastings I love the nose of sweet Itobacco, currants, minerals, flowers, stones. bodied, cellars of chateaux. found about 120 outstanding qualityand wines that I Full rated 90 points or more. Eight of flavors, silky tannins, and beautiful fruit. Long and beautiful, with a with points dark chocolate or more. succulent finish and a great overall balance. Best in three or four years. My two top wines were white Haut-Brion and Ausone. These are both legends in the own rights in just a and 2008 was no different. The Haut-Brion is the standard bearer for dry whites in the region and is one earth. The 2008 is classy and ultra-refined, with wonderful intensity and power.

By comparison, Ausone’s 2008 is all about breeding and depth of fruit – particularly the Cabernet Franc shows an uncanny balance between power and finesse. I scored both 96 points.

 

France



Bordeaux

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Bordeaux Blend



2008



93/100

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France

 

Bordeaux Blend



2008



93/100

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France



Bordeaux



Bordeaux Blend



2008



93/100

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France

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The other top wines in my tasting included: Cheval Blanc, Lafite Rothschid, Latour, Léoville Las Cases, Wonderful of raw cherries. Full body, withHaut-Brion, a solid coreL'Église of of themaromas 95 points. Justmeat, after,blueberries at 94 pointsand were: Ducru-Beaucaillou, Clinet, Montros fruit Pétrus, and dense polished Long and and beautiful. It’s all in reserve. Give it four to Domaine de tannins. Chevalier (white), Vieux-Château-Certan. five years. This is really structured for the year. Extremely well done! $$ What I like about the wines is their wonderfully enticing aromas of flowers, dark fruits and minerals and are a joy to smell. They entice you like a vase full of beautiful roses in your house.

The palates of the wines are equally attractive. They are not full throttle like 2009, but reserved and liv wines, but not thick and muscular. Some people may find them two restrained and firm, especially if the alcohol red. But if they like outstanding, typical Bordeaux reds from a cool (meaning less hot weather d  season) vintage, then 2008 is a vintage to seriously consider.

Bright andoffocused withinathis wonderful mineral, pineapple, cream and slice Most the wines tasting report need about three to four yearsapple of bottle age to start to be consid character on the palate. Full bodied, with be a beautiful balance of Bordeaux fruit and winemakers I spoke to drinking. But nose six toand seven years in bottle would better. Most of the acidity withbe a dense palate. It’s 10, long20 and after 2012. great for another or classy. even 30Best years. The two $$ vintages most often compared were 1988 would comfortable comparing 2008 with 2001, which was particularly strong on the Right Bank. The wines in been balanced and fresh as well as good values

Indeed, the 2008 vintage offers many excellent values. The most obvious seems to be super second gr Beaucaillou or Cos d’Estournel. These wines in 2008 may cost about $125 or so a bottle, while in 2009 than double that price.

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Most of the wines in this report are still not delivered. So if you buy now, be sure to buy from a reputabl Bright and focused with a wonderful mineral, pineapple, cream and slice apple character on the nose and palate. Full bodied, with a beautiful balance of fruit and acidity with a dense palate. It’s long and classy. Best after 2012. $$

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The  wine shows plenty and berries. Full wine with this name Franceof tobacco and vanilla This character is the firstwith yearchocolate of Lynch-Bages's second body, with super fine tannins. It’s so long and refined. It’s a divergence from the big,

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2006 Wine Journal: Top Of The Crops: Pauillac 2006

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Top Of The Crops: Pauillac 2006

Long-Haul Flight: 2000 July 30th 2006 – “Top Of The Pops” is broadcast for the last timeA since it was first aired Bordeaux on New Years Day, 1964.HOME SUPPORT VIRTUAL TOUR SITE MAP CONTACT US BULLETIN BOARD Leftchart. Bank Every Thursday night I would sit down to watch Top Of The Pops and Tasting digest theNotes: weekly pop At that time, Bruno Brookes or Simon Bates run down of the top 40 singles was infinitely more Journal:figures ToporOf The Crops: Pauillac Chateau Sociando-Mallet important than say,Wine unemployment inflation. We wanted to2000 know if2006 Phil Collins was in the 86 Th Tasted mimed blind at performances Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. This top ten or whether Duran Duran were still number one. Most of the show’s Wi hasbya Cameo’s striking nose: blackberry, were instantly forgettable or just crass, but the ennui would be broken thrusting red burnt match, cold tea, and green pepper. Incongruous to other 2000s, although it has individual Ta codpiece, Morrissey whirling his gladioli or Kurt’s faux baritone rendition of “Smells Like Teen charm. Ibetween am less keen on the of palate, which contains that Spirit”. During the 90s, youth’s short attention span began to be divvied up new forms Ta Wine Journal Home element but it does not knit well with the rest of the media and the charts Other was usurped by Search downloads. Top Of The Pops herbaceous became a stale anachronism Neal's Tasting Notes palate, as if this wine wants to do two different things and cannot dec Recommends: that was shunted around the programming schedulesWine-Journal into ever-deeper graveyard slots. When 2000 or a leaner off-vintage. Hard, bitter finish, this is a disappointing Wine Journal Archive Top Of The Crops: 2006 Mouton-Rothschild 2006 Jimmy Saville finally turned Pauillac out the lights in July 2006,Château I felt that part2010. of my childhood was being Producer ProfilesChâteau Pontet-Canet 2006 extinguished. There was no longer a barometer of popular music that united the nation. Ironically, In bond price: £420/case. 30th 2006 – “Top of Ofits The Pops”is isthe broadcast for the keeps last time since it was firstSociando-Mallet aired on Book/Film Château Pichon-Lalande 2006 theJuly technology culpable demise veryReviews same that it alive, for the Internet and 2000 Chateau 86 New Years Day, 1964. ChâteautoGrand-Puy-Lacoste 2006 Albumfrom of the Month Youtube flourish with uploaded ToTP clips The Beatles Britney. live Top of the Pops.91 2000Long Chateau Chasse-Spleen

A Long-Haul Flight: Bordeaux 2000 Tasting Notes: Left Bank

Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in Every Thursday night I would sit downVisit to watch TopJournal Of The Pops and digest the weekly pop chart. the Wine Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. This is retic At that time, Bruno Brookes or SimonForum Bates run down Tasting of the top 40 singles was infinitely more our Notes We opens up nicelynose: withfinish time,blackberry, blackberry, plum,burnt black coffee, cedar and has a striking match, cola important than say, unemployment figures or inflation. We wanted to know if Phil Collins was in the journey Interviews palate is full-bodied withthrough grippy tannins on the entry, firm backbone a d’Armailhac 88 top ten or whether Duran Duran were still number one.2006 MostChateau of pepper. the show’s mimed performances Incongruous to other 2000s, although it 2006 withtowards the masculine, a saline note and tobacco scented, sap Vintagewould Guidebeblind Tasted at Southwold ’06 Bordeaux Ithe wascedar expecting more from this d’Arm were instantly forgettable or just crass,Bordeaux but the ennui broken by Cameo’s thrusting redtasting. Pauillacs. This showing for Chasse Spleen and comes recommended for the vintage charm. I am less keen on the palate, which cont About Neal Martin the nose, very austere compared codpiece, Morrissey whirling his gladioli or Kurt’s faux taciturn baritoneon rendition of “Smells Like Teen Wine Journal Home was generallytoa the pre-bottled sample with notes of b March 2010.It has blackberry, cedar andbetween pine. aforms relatively simple, sappy not palateknit with rustic, Spirit”. DuringWine the 90s,Journal youth’s shortHome attention span began to beherbaceous divvied up new strong setofof Search Neal's Tasting Notes element but it does wellslight with In bond price: £500/case. withPops a softbecame landing aonstale the finish. media and the charts was usurped by downloads. Topfruit Of The anachronism winesThough befittingthis d’Armailhac is approachable, I do n Wine Journal Archive Search Tasting Notes palate, as if this wine wants showing its best at the moment. Tasted January 2010.to do two different th that was shunted aroundNeal's the programming schedules into ever-deeper graveyard slots. When Quick Links this most noble 2000 Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte 95 Quick Links Producer Profiles What's New Jimmy Saville finally turned out the lights July 2006, I felt that part ofTasted my childhood was being Index’s of enclaves and 2000 tasting in London. Taciturn on What'sinNew at 85 Bordeaux 2000 or ablind leaner off-vintage. Hard, bitter finish, t Journal Book/Film Reviews 2006 Chateau Croizet Bages Weekly Wine Buys toIronically, nobody’s extinguished.Wine There was no longerArchive aWeekly barometer of popular music that united the nation. Wine Buys coquettishly opening up with pureThe red-fruits, espresso, and a to Tasted blind at Southwold ’06 Bordeaux tasting. perennial Pauillaccedar whipping boy Album of the Month Gift Subscriptions surprise it was the technology culpable of its demiseGift is Subscriptions the very same that keeps it alive, for the Internet and The palate is full-bodied, 2010. bureau. Good definition. firm tannins, a touc Producer Profiles better in a blind setting. There is certainly some under-ripe fruit on the nose here alth Shop The Wine Advocate Store thethe resurgent Youtube flourish with uploaded ToTPShop clipsThe from The BeatlesStore to Britney. Long live Top of Pops. Visit the Wine Journal Wine Advocate citric thread that£420/case. counterbalanced the dense, black fruit. This is n In bond price: RSSForum Feeds good definition and clarity, appealing in a simplistic way. The ripe palate is medium-bodie Château RSS Feeds Book/Film Reviews the elements are here for greatdefined wine, with blackberry, ceda Wine Advisor Updates balanced, not complex and very linear, buta well and notes with aofsense of natural b WeMouton finish our Wine Advisor Updates Interviews and freshly rolled tobacco. Persistent, grippy and utterly convincing. D journey through 2010 TWA Editorial Calendar 2010 TWA Editorial leafy, Calendar Rothschild 2006 tobacco-infused finish. Tasted January 2010. Album of the Month Bordeaux Vintage Guide March 2010. 2000 Chateau Chasse-Spleen 91 2006 with that is the pick of About NealGo Martin In bond price: £500/case. This Ratings On The Go2006 Chateau Batailley Ratings On The the First 92 Pauillacs. Visit the Wine Journal Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in was generally a Robert Parker Mobi Tasted blind at Southwold ’06 Bordeaux Robert Parker Mobi Growths. tasting. An The Batailley ’06 has a fresh, lifted, strong setisofwell 2000and Chateau Haut-Bailly 90? Forum eminent person of blackberry, plum graphite that definedblackberry, and exudes Pauillac terroir.blac With opens up nicely with time, plum, wines befittingIndex’s 2000 tasting in London. This has a More Information Tasted blind at Bordeaux More Information inmint Bordeaux aeration there are scents of wild and pine developing in the glass. The palate is Quick Links this most noble Executive Wine Seminars Interviews nose aromas of use wild of strawberry, cherry, Provencal and sa palate iswith full-bodied with grippy on the ec Executive Wine Seminars recently crisp fruit, judicious new oak, lovely tannins poise on theherbs blackberry, What's New of enclaves and Cartoon of the Weekbalanced, cleando with more vigour. Very ripe aand generous on the entry, tad softe Cartoon of the Week remarked that finish that really shows itsnote class against its peers. This is a agreat effor Weekly Wine Buys tosaline nobody’s masculine, a towards the cedar and VinoGuide Vignette of thetobacco Month tinged Bordeaux Vintage defined and cohesive, withgreat ripe black cherry, raspberry, soy and citru Vino Gift Vignette of the Month bonaJanuary mature with style and grace. Tasted Subscriptions surprise itfide was 2010. Articles of Merit focused,for but Chasse perhaps notought the breeding of other 2000s? Drink now-20 Articles of The MeritWine Advocate Store to showing Spleen and comes recomm Shop thechâteau resurgent Find It Online About Neal Martin Find RSS It Online In bond price:90 £500/case. be hors classe, Feeds 2006 Chateau Clerc-Milon Château Alan Richman March 2010. Alan Wine Richman surpass all others in at least one vintageWine everyEducation decade. Looking back at this year, you could argue that Advisor Updates Tasted blind at Southwold ’06Mouton Bordeaux tasting. The Clerc-Milon ’06 has a rich, opul Wine2010 Education 2000isDomaine de Chevalier Philippe Dhalluin and his team did just that, though blind conditions there butwith a hair’s breadth in 92and black plum with hints of honey in TWA Editorial Calendar Rothschild 2006 Glossary of under Wine Terms (more likeIn d’Armailhac!) blackberry, cassis bond price: £500/case. Glossary of Wine Terms quality between Mouton and Château Lafite-Rothschild 2006 and Château Latour 2006. Charles Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 in developing London. This is time muc is oak, the pick of a touch The Vintage Chart fruit interlaced with prominentthat new then oftasting tobacco with The Vintage Chevalier’s wine is evolving a feminine, Margaux-like bouquet with pure blackberry, cedar andFirst cassis… Ratings Chart On The Go more reductive in style, flatter and less vivacious. Leathe the The Wine Advocate medium-bodied,nose, saturated tannins lending thisrather a fleshy texture, gentle but persistent The Wine RobertAdvocate Parker Mobi typically refined with exquisite balance onTWA palate,System which exudes a clinical efficiency. Frédéric Engerer Growths. Anentryaton the palate, rounded red-berried frui Rating wild mushroom. ASmith clean graphite and cedar with a controlled opulence towards the modern-style 2000 Chateau 95 finish. This i Quick Links backwardthe eminent person Haut-Lafitte TWA Rating System Latour conjured a comparatively Pauillac with more graphite and tobacco, earth on the nose, linear and straight-laced, lacking a touch of complexity towa crafted Clerc-Milon. Tasted January 2010. More Information in Bordeaux Our Reviewers counterbalanced by the sweetness The palate has a slightly meaty at the present, leading to Index’s What's New of quince. Tasted blind at Bordeaux 2000 in mynote glass, it coalesces and exudes elegance rather thantasting power. Poise Executive Wine Seminars recently Parker this has long-term potential. Our Reviewers an austere, tertiary, almost brutish finish Robert that suggests 2025. Tasted March 2010. 2006 Chateau Grand Puy Ducasse 84 Weekly Wine Buys Cartoon of the Week remarked that a Antonio Galloni coquettishly opening up with pure red-fruits, esp Robert Parker In bond price: £420/case. Tasted blind at Southwold ’06bona Bordeaux tasting. Wine Journal: Pauillac 2006when Karen Page 4 surThis 4 is rather muffled on the nose, la VinoGalloni Vignette of theTop MonthOf The Crops:Gift fide great MacNeil Antonio Subscriptions Still, who needs First Growths you have the over-performing likes ofGood Château Pontet-Canet, bureau. definition. The palate is full-bodie Articles of Merit definition of the Batailley ‘06 with notes of mulberry, graphite and sloe and oak not in château ought to Neal Martin Karen MacNeil Château Lynch-Bages, Château Batailley and Château Grand-Puy Lacoste. In particular, 2000 Chateau Pape-Clement 91+ Shop The Wine Advocate It Online be hors classe, Jay Miller Store palate is medium-bodied, chewy tannins, lacking a sense of Pauillac terroir with arip lot NealFind Martin citric thread that counterbalanced the dense, Xavier Borie pulled hisLisa ’06 Perrotti-Brown that thumps its chest declares: “Moi, je suis Tasted blind atargue Bordeaux Index’s tasting Tertiary in London. LikeI the Ha Alan Richman surpass all others in a atblinder least onewith vintage every decade. Looking back atand this year, youlike could thatunfruit. MW smothering what feels some decent Quel2000 dommage. finish, would Jay Miller RSS Feeds subdued on theare earthy with blackberry, mulberry, candle wax, a Pauillac”. Sulky atand first, bided in the glass but unfurled beautifully that had to Wine Education Philippe Dhalluin his itteam did its justtime that, though under blind conditions there is and but so adeign hair’s breadth inkeepfor David Schildknecht benefit ofthe the doubt itI nose, with here another 3-4 years in bottle to see what elements a great wine, withhappens note Lisa Glossary Perrotti-Brown of WineMW Terms undergrowth. Thedecade. palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, nice co quality between Mouton and Lafite-Rothschild and Château Latour Charles MarkDon’t Squires Wine Advisor Updates going back and editing my Château tasting note. even 2006 think about this wine for2006. another though. Tasted January 2010. DavidThe Schildknecht Vintage Chart Chevalier’s wine fruit, is evolving feminine, bouquet withsome, pure blackberry, and Kevin Zraly and freshly rolled tobacco. Persistent, an the raspberry, and a touch ofgrippy fennel, buildin Château 2006 is aMargaux-like brilliant wine thatsaturated for will entry, surpass the 2005 (Icedar, personally powerfulPichon-Lalande black good adepth with grippy, but more tannins thancedar others. Itcassis… is just a bit dried herbs MarkThe Squires 2010 Calendar Wine Advocate typically refined with TWA exquisiteEditorial balance on the palate, which exudes a clinical efficiency. Frédéric quite Engerer at and grippy towards the finish. This shou Past Reviewers a firm backbone, tannic put them neck-and-neck…but these things can change.) Closed on the nose, it reluctantly offered soft and muffled on the finish at the point where it needs more drive. Tasted January 2010. 2006 Chateau Duhart Milon 89 KevinTWA Zraly March 2010. Rating System Latour conjured a comparatively backward Pauillac with more graphite and earth on the nose,2010. Tasted March Tasted blind at Southwold ’06 Bordeaux The Duhart ’06 has a very fine, well scents of graphitebyand crisp blackberries, whilst thehas full-bodied palate broadens out towards a Past Reviewers counterbalanced the sweetness of quince. palate a slightly meaty note at the present, leadingtasting. to LinksThe In bond price: £900/case. In bond price: £500/case. 2006 Chateau Pontet-Canet 95 typically masculine nose with blackberry, espresso, boysenberry and a touch of cold Ratings On The Go sumptuous and yet beautifully structured finish and dare I say that despite differences in its blend, Our Reviewers an austere, tertiary, almost brutish finish The that Wine suggests this has long-term potential. Advocate Fund Tasted blind at Mouton Southwold ’06 Bordeaux tasting. opulence”. This remains sensational Pontet Canet struts palate isamedium-bodied but expanding in its the mouth, ripe black toasty fruit woven ar Links Robert Parker it reminds me of in terms of its “prudent Educational Robert Parker Mobi 2000 Chateau Brane Cantenac stuff who under severe blind conditions. hashave a decadent, almost Tuscan bouquet that manages to be The Wine Advocate Antonio Galloni Fund tannins, foursquare a slight bitterness on the93 tarry finish. This needs 8-10 years Still, needs First Growths whenItRetailer you the over-performing likes of with Château Pontet-Canet, Tasted blind at Tasted Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. This Brane 2000 Chateau Haut-Bailly supremely well offers defineda with fullyset embraces oak, with acompared touch of gravel underlying the ripeJanuary Karen MacNeil Educational Accessory/Storage a little doughty at the moment. Château Lynch-Bages, Château Batailley and Château Grand-Puy In particular, Overall, Pauillac strong of winesthe in 2006 and toLacoste. current release prices of 2010.90? Neal Martin blackberry, tobacco The is full-bodied, very balanced with fine tannins. Retailer Xavier Borie pulled aand blinder with hispalate ’06 that thumps and declares: “Moi,pure, jeat suis un 2009, they can be seen asplum. a cheaper alternative withitsa chest barewell minimum compromise inBordeaux quality. More Information Tasted blind Index’s 2000 tasting in Jay Miller Accessory/Storage I was expecting more hedonistic but this is restrained, feminine Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste 94 Pauillac”. Sulky at first,ofit abided its timePauillac, in the glass but2006 unfurled beautifully so and that beautifully I had to keep Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW Executive Wine Seminars poisedback towards the finish. Nice gentle but insistent grip. Enormous potential. Tasted Januaryof 2010. Tasted blind at Southwold ’06 decade. Bordeaux tasting. One of those winescherry, that sulks atPro bei nose with aromas wild strawberry, going and editing my tasting note. Don’t even think about this wine for another David Schildknecht in thiswill beauty pageant and (Iyet with patience it begins to accept the situation. Th Château Pichon-Lalande 2006Week is a brilliant wine that blind for some, surpass the 2005 personally Cartoon of the Mark Squires do with more vigour. Very ripe and generous on curmudgeonly at first, and introverted put them neck-and-neck…but these things can change.) Closed on the nose,dense it reluctantly offered with traditional blackberry, wild hedgero Kevin Zraly Vino Vignette of the Month box aromas. Very fineand definition and lift. medium-bodied with firm, gripp eRobertParker.com is a service of eRobertParker, LLC scents of graphite and crispSMblackberries, whilst the full-bodied palate broadens outcohesive, towards a The palate defined with isripe black cherry, ras Past Reviewers Email: info@erobertparker.com http://www.erobertparker.com/members/nmartin/nm1099.asp superb with a touch of Merit sumptuousArticles and yet beautifully structured finish and dare I sayconcentration that despite differences in of its black blend,pepper sprinkled over the dense black fru Copyright © 2001-2010 - eRobertParker, LLC All rights reserved focused, but perhaps not the breeding of other aeons to unfurl. This is a brilliant wine from Xavier Borie but like all great GPL’s: thin2 Links it reminds Portions me of Mouton in of its “prudent opulence”. Copyright © terms 2001-2010 - The Wine Advocate, Inc. Find It Online The Wine Advocate Fund five. Tasted 2010. In January bond price: £500/case. Educational Alan Richman Overall, Pauillac offers a strong setthe of Subscription wines in 2006 and compared to current release prices of Except as otherwise expressly permitted under Agreement or copyright law, Retailer Bages Averous 87 no copying, redistribution, retransmission, publication or commercial exploitation2006 of thisHaut material is permitted

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 



         

              

               

    

  

 

   

...

  







    





        

       

  





  

           

 

      

                   



  

   

  

 

     



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  

 





      

  

     



  

 

        



       

  

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

Bordeaux 2000 - how are  they now? | Fine Wine Writing & Wine Reviews from Janc... 23 Mar 2010 by Jancis Robinson

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Last week I had the great pleasure of 'looking at' nearly 50 of the more significant red bordeaux from the vintage ce tenth birthday. This is traditionally the time at which classical red bordeaux starts to come round and starts to provid drinking. I am delighted that fine wine traders Bordeaux Index have decided to take over the mantle of my late men Penning-Rowsell in organising an annual retrospective tasting of 10-year-old top bordeaux. (See here for an accou PAUILLAC tasting last year.) Ch Pontet-Canet 2000 Pauillac 17.5 Drink 2008-2025 I thoughtsmells. this was one and of the horizontals I can remember, with the wines generally delightfully bal Still dark crimson. Intense with almost barnyard Racy richmost withpleasurable a savoury overlay. Seems a little light because it was some of the best buys and over-performers, but in the meantime, do please take a look at the served immediately after the Las Casesoverview but this ishighlighting serious wine. (pretty close together) and at my very varied suggested drinking dates. Most, but by no means all, of these wines a £650 ib approx to be broachable. Ch Lynch Bages 2000 Pauillac 17.5 Drink 2010-2024 As you see, a number of wines gain veryand respectable scores without having on ridiculously high price tags, despite Very dark ruby with some evolution. Toasty andwill appetising. Very appealing subtlety complexity on the nose though the and maturity this fine Note that particularly good year for Pomerol (and Graves) in general, a palate it is clearly not as ripe as some. Maybe higherofyields? Anvintage. attractive drink butthis farwas fromaintense. £1,450 ib approx in particular.

Ch Grand-Puy Lacoste 2000 PauillacWines 17.5+ Drink 2014-2030 are listed in the order they were tasted. Prices given are approximate estimates for a dozen bottles in bond. Mid ruby. Firm and, for the first time in this tasting I find myself writing the word 'mineral'. Sweet and pleasing and at first I wondered whether it was almost at its apogee, but it still has slightly aggressive acid and tannin on the palate. It's far from subtle ST-ÉMILION but it does deliver. Quite marked acidity. Not the most luscious 2000 but very solid. Probably needs a bit more time. £580 ib approx Ch Belair 2000 St-Émilion 16 Drink 2008-2018 Light to mid ruby with definite signs of ageing on the rim. Light nose with lots of evolution. Warm and round on the n Ch Latour, Les Forts de Latour 2000 marked Pauillacacidity 18 Drink 2010-2030 without much intensity. Then on the palate some pronounced ripeness, almost a salty 'bloody' ripene Dark and shaded ruby. Much more complex than sothe far.freshest But quiteand developed..? I love the minerality and Furrynose finish. Theany fruitwine is not a little tannin lingers. This is definitely ancient rather than modern idiom lusciousness-yet-dryness on the finish. £280 Very solid performance and a lovely wine for an extended period, I would say. Very grown ib approx up indeed. £1,250 ib approx Ch Canon La Gaffelière 2000 St-Émilion 17 Drink 2008-2020 Some brightness in the ruby. Quite a youthful, 'pointed', sharp nose without much development yet. Rich and swee Ch Pichon Longueville Comtesse de than Lalande Pauillac 17.5 Drink 2010-2022 a hint2000 of dark chocolate, this leaps up and down for attention. The acid and tannin are still a little jagged, in mo Bluer than the Pichon-Longueville by quite margin. A hint of herbaceousness. Not excessively ripe. Neat and vibrant but it Verya savoury finish. Firm and still on the Pretty. way up. may disappoint those looking for mass and £650ripeness? ib approxCertainly very 'fresh'. Maybe just a bit too much so for expectations of this vintage and this appellation. £1,500 ib approx Ch Angélus 2000 St-Émilion 18 Drink 2009-2025 Exceptionally deep crimson. Rather attractively ethereal topnotes on a solid core of ripeness. Very attractive packa Ch Pichon-Longueville (Baron) 2000 modern Pauillacwine 18 Drink 2010-2030 that offers great intensity and richness without being aggressively sweet or hot. It has still got a long w Dark blackish ruby, more orange than the Lalande Warm, integrated nose. Dense and beautifully balanced. Pure canPichon certainly delivercolour. pleasure already. Neat and very bright and bushy- tailed. Pauillac without recourse to pastiche. Much riper than Pichon Lalande but not overripe. Already broachable but with potential too. £2,350 ib approx Good stuff! £1,100 ib approx Ch Tertre Roteboeuf 2000 St-Émilion 18 Drink 2010-2025 Mid ruby with some shading. Much more complex and exotic on the nose than its peers. Very sweet palate entry an hint of something halfway between a Chambolle and a Barolo. Strange! But a welcome challenge. Lots of jazzy ripe ST-ESTÈPHE tannins and acidity are yet to be fully resolved. I'd guess this still has quite a bit to give. Though without being mode isn't classic. Ch Montrose 2000 St-Estèphe 18 Drink 2015-2035 £2,400 ib approx Mid crimson. Meaty and toasty on the nose but a mite restrained on the palate. Lots of iron filings. Needs lots of time. This sure is archetypal St-Estèphe! Very chewy still. £1,300 ib approx POMEROL

Ch Cos d'Estournel 2000 St-Estèphe Ch 17.5+ Drink 2015-2032 Petit Village 2000 Pomerol 16.5 Drink 2008-2018 Dark crimson. Surprisingly low-key nose. Actually, is almost like incolour. its low-key raciness.liquorice' Not at allnotes the dense Cos. Looks quiteitan evolvedLafite mid brick Odd 'warmed on themode noseof- apparently fully resolved but by Dry finish but not too concentrated. Veryunpleasant appetising- and quite racy and Sweet ethereal. Interesting. Obviously Slightly here for rusty the long termon even rather comforting. start, pretty light-bodied. tannins the finish - leaves one with if not with enormous ripeness and mass. impression. Not the purest or freshest of fruit. Competent without being thrilling. £800 ib approx £500 ib approx

Ch Gazin 2000 Pomerol 17 Drink 2007-2015

Wine Journal: A Long-Haul Flight: Wine Bordeaux 2000 Reviews

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attacking but perhaps a little ostentatious? Spiky, spicy black fruits, touches of marjoram and cardamom. Dry and tobacco dominated towards the finish, moderate length. It lacks some focus for the first ten minutes but coalesces and tidies itself up. Drink 2012-2030. Tasted March 2010. In bond price: £900/case.

A Long-Haul Flight: Bordeaux 2000

2000 Chateau Léoville Poyferré 95 Tasting Notes: Left Bank Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. A sensuous, ripe, harmonious bouquet soars seductively from the glass; red-berried fruit, leather, scorched earth, orange peel and a Chateau Sociando-Mallet HOME TOURis medium-bodied SITE MAP 2000 CONTACT BULLETIN lovely BOARD86 touch of marmalade. Very goodSUPPORT definition. VIRTUAL The palate with US firm tannins, Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. This focus and purity, seamless texture, cedar and smoke laced black fruits a touch graphiteburnt match, cold tea, and green has a with striking nose: of blackberry, towards the finish. This 2000 just does not put a foot wrong. Bravopepper. Didier!Incongruous Drink 2013-2035. to other 2000s, although it has individual Tasted March 2010. charm. I am less keen on the palate, which contains that Wine Journal Home herbaceous element but it does not knit well with the rest of the In bond price: £800/case.

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Search Neal's Tasting Notes palate, as if this wine wants to do two different things and cannot dec 2000 or a leaner off-vintage. Hard, bitter finish, this is a disappointing 2000 Chateau Léoville Las-Cases 96Wine Journal Archive 2010. Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000Producer tasting Profiles in London. This is just a bit reductive at first, In of bond price: Good £420/case. opening up with aeration, mulberry, leather, black truffle and a whiff smoke. definition Book/Film Reviews again.AThe palate is full-bodied and very concentrated, chewy tannins, touches of sandalwood Album of the Month Long-Haul Flight: Bordeaux 2000 2000 Chateau Chasse-Spleen and 91 cedar, dense and perhaps a little sullen towards the finish. This willTasted need blind some to open up, 2000 tasting in London. This is retic Visit the Wine Journal at time Bordeaux Index’s Forum rather Tasting curmudgeonly at Left the moment the sense of completeness up nicely with time, blackberry, plum, black coffee, cedar and a Notes: Bank but hey, that’s Las-Cases andopens Interviews here will see it blossom in 15-20 years. Drink 2020-2050. Tasted March palate 2010. is full-bodied with grippy tannins on the entry, firm backbone an masculine, a saline note towards the cedar and tobacco scented, sap Bordeaux Vintage Guide In bond £2,600/case. 2000price: Chateau Sociando-Mallet Theshowing Art of Patience Wine Journal86Home for Chasse Spleen and comes recommended for the vintage Neal Martin This Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000About tasting in London.

2000 Chateau Sociando-Mallet 86 Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in has a striking nose: blackberry, burnt match, col pepper. Incongruous to other 2000s, although it charm. I am less keen on the palate, which cont herbaceous element but it does not knit well with March 2010. Wines Worth For 2000has Chateau 91burnt a strikingPontet-Canet nose: blackberry, match, cold tea, and green Search Neal's Tasting Notes palate, as ifWaiting this wine wants to do two different th Inan bond price: £500/case. pepper. to other 2000s, although has individual Tasted blindIncongruous at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tastingitin London. This has alluring, open-knit Tasting Notes: Right Bank nose, 2000 or a leaner off-vintage. I am less keen on the palate, whichand contains Wine Journal Archive verycharm. well defined with ebullient redcurrant wild that strawberry on the nose, sandalwood, leather, 95 Hard, bitter finish, t Tasting Notes: Left BankHaut-Lafitte 2000 Chateau Smith Quick Links Wine Journal Home butpine. it does notpalate knit well with the rest of thewith firm but fine tannin, very good cigarherbaceous box and aelement touch of The is medium-bodied 2010. What's New Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. Taciturn on Producer Profiles Search Neal's Tasting Notes palate, as sinewy if this wine wants do two different things andtowards cannot decide whether was to and be a animated Weekly Wine Buys weight, quite and taut to with tart red berried fruit the coquettishly long finish.itopening Lively up with pure red-fruits, espresso, cedar and a to 2000 or a leaner off-vintage. Hard, bitter finish, this is a disappointing showing. Tasted March In bond price: £420/case. Wine Journal Archive Giftlactic Subscriptions – real energy in Book/Film this wine, smooth and on the finish. Drink now-2025. Tasted MarchThe 2010. bureau. Good definition. palate is full-bodied, firm tannins, a touc Reviews

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In bond price: £650/case. In bond price: £420/case.

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citric thread that counterbalanced the dense, ripe black fruit. This is n

RSS Feeds Album of the Month elements are here for a great wine, with notes of blackberry, ceda Wine Advisor Updates 2000the Chateau Chasse-Spleen 91 and freshly rolled tobacco. Persistent, grippy and utterly convincing. D 20002000 Chateau Lynch-Bages 94 91 2010 TWA Editorial Calendar Chateau Chasse-Spleen Visit the Wine Journal March 2010. Tasted blind at Bordeaux Tasted blind at Bordeaux tastingininLondon. London. This is moreontaciturn Tasted blind at BordeauxIndex’s Index’s 2000 2000 tasting This is reticent the noseon atthe first,nose but than Index’s 2000 tasting in bondestuarine price: £500/case. On The Go savoury, Forum opens up nicely withistime, plum, black coffee, cedaropens and aInslight note. Thearomas Pontet-Canet ‘00, but wellblackberry, defined Ratings with some lovely chestnut and black truffle up nicely with time, blackberry, plum, blac Robert Parker Mobi palate isin full-bodied with grippy tannins on the entry, firm backbone andisgood depth. Stern developing the glass. Touches of damp moss/lichen. The palate full-bodied with and firm tannins, 2000 Chateau Haut-Bailly 90? grippy tannins on the en Interviews palate is blind full-bodied with masculine, a saline note the cedar and tobacco scented, sappy finish. This is chewy a great towards gentle grip, foursquare buttowards good weight, and cedar, Moreblackberry, Information graphite, leather Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. This has a m showing for Chasse Spleen and comes recommended for the vintage. Drink 2012-2030. Tasted Executive masculine, athesaline the cedar and the dry, structured finish. Very fine, perhaps aWine littleSeminars broody and introverted moment. But towards nose withataromas of wild note strawberry, cherry, Provencal herbs and san Guide March 2010. Bordeaux Vintage Cartoon of the 2010. Week do with more vigour. Very ripe and generous on the entry, a tad softe greatInpotential. 2016-2040. Tasted March bond price:Drink £500/case. showing for Chasse Spleen and comes recomm Vino Vignette of the Month About Neal Martin defined and cohesive, with ripe black cherry, raspberry, soy and citrus In bond price: £1,450/case.

March 2010. In bond price: £500/case.

Articles of Merit focused, but perhaps not the breeding of other 2000s? Drink now-202 2000 Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte 95 Quick Links Find It Online £500/case. What's New 2000Tasted Chateau Lacoste 94tasting blindGrand-Puy at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 in London. Taciturn on In thebond noseprice: at first, but Alan Richman Weekly Wine Buys Wine Education coquettishly up Index’s with pure2000 red-fruits, espresso, cedarThis and ahas touch of the old dustynose antique Tasted blind at opening Bordeaux tasting in London. a very complex but it92is 2000 Domaine de Chevalier Gift Subscriptions Glossary of Wine Terms bureau. definition. Thebrambly palate is full-bodied, firm tannins, a touch of on the entry, a smoke. tightly coiledGood at the moment: black fruits, earthy, sous-bois, a spice touch ofat truffle and Tasted blind Bordeaux 2000 tasting in London. This is muc Shop The Wine Advocate Store The Vintage Chart that counterbalanced thewine dense, blackafruit. Thisand is nowhere nearThe ready, but allisIndex’s Quick Verycitric finethread definition butLinks masculine, a thatripe wears cravat pince-nez. palate medium RSS Feeds nose, more reductive in style, rather flatter and less vivacious. Leathe Thewith Wine Advocate the elements are here for a great wine, notes of blackberry, cedar, graphite wild strawberry Wine Advisor Updates -bodied, quiteWhat's chewy onNew the entry and notRating as delineated as the nose Sharp cranberry, TWA System wildimplies. mushroom. A clean entry on the palate, rounded red-berried fruit and freshly rolled tobacco. Persistent, grippy and utterly convincing. Drink now-2030. Tasted 2010 TWA Editorial Calendar raspberry tobacco, linear and straight-laced, and soy towards the finish, rather pointed with that acidity giving the back-palate a shortlacking a touch of complexity towa March 2010. Weekly Wine Buysneeds Reviewers glass,expected. it coalesces and exudes sharp Very tightly coiled, this Our much more time than I my initially Drink 2020- elegance rather than power. Poise In shock! bond price: £500/case. Ratings On The Go Robert Parker 2025. Tasted March 2010. Subscriptions 2040. Tasted Gift March 2010. Robert Parker Mobi Antonio Galloni In bond price: £420/case. 2000price: Chateau Haut-Bailly 90? Advocate In bond £580/case. Karen MacNeil Shop The Wine Store More Information Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting Neal Martinin London. This has a more generous, open-knit RSS Feeds 2000 Chateau Pape-Clement 91+ Executive Wine Seminars Jay MillerProvencal herbs and sandalwood, with aromas of wild cherry, although it could 2000nose Chateau Les Fort destrawberry, Latour 93 blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. Like the Ha Cartoon of the Week Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW a tad softerTasted Wine Advisor Updates do with more vigour. Very ripe and generous on the entry, than itsde peers, but is very well Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. This Les Forts Latour quite hard subdued on the nose, earthy with to blackberry, mulberry, candle wax, a Vino Vignette of the Month David Schildknecht defined and cohesive, with ripe black cherry, raspberry, soy and citrus fruit towards the finish. Very 2010 TWA fathom out and at first, it wasEditorial difficultMark toCalendar pin down. But returning after a couple of hours, wine is Articles of Merit undergrowth. The palatethe is medium-bodied with firm tannins, nice coh Squires focused, but perhaps not the breeding of other 2000s? Drink now-2020. Tasted March 2010. Find It Online Kevin Zraly blackcurrant and mint finally starting to £500/case. coalesce, with ripe strawberry, the nose with justdried a hint entry,on the raspberry, cedar, herbs and a touch of fennel, building In bond price: Alan Richman Reviewers a firm backbone, quite tannic and grippy towards the finish. This shou of graphite. The palate, hard at first, Past softens and finds its rhythm, sensuous and beautifully Ratings On The Go Wine Education Tasted March 2010. balanced on the pure finish. Approach with caution...but do approach. Drink 2014-2025+ Tasted 2000 Domaine de Chevalier 92 Glossary of Wine Terms Links bondbackwards price: £900/case. Robert Parker Mobi Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 in London. This is muchInmore on the March 2010. The Vintage Chart Thetasting Wine Advocate Fund nose,price: more £1,250/case. reductive in style, rather Educational flatter and less vivacious. Leathery black fruits and a touch of The Wine Advocate In bond Chateau Brane TWA Rating System wild mushroom. A clean entry on theRetailer palate, rounded red-berried fruit,2000 a touch of earth and Cantenac 93 Tasted blind at Bordeaux More Information Accessory/Storage tobacco, linear and straight-laced, lacking a touch of complexity towards the finish. Returning toIndex’s 2000 tasting in London. This Brane2000 Chateau Pichon-Lalande 87 Our Reviewers my glass, it coalesces and exudes elegance rather than power. Poised and feminine. Drink 2012Executive Wine Seminars Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. As usual, this Pichon-Lalande is a Robert Parker 2025. Tasted March 2010.

2000 Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte 95 Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in coquettishly opening up with pure red-fruits, esp bureau. Good definition. The palate is full-bodied citric thread that counterbalanced the dense, rip the elements are here for a great wine, with note and freshly rolled tobacco. Persistent, grippy and March 2010. In bond price: £500/case.

2000 Chateau Haut-Bailly 90? Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in nose with aromas of wild strawberry, cherry, Pro

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A Long-Haul Flight: Bordeaux 2000 Tasting Notes: Left Bank

2000 Chateau Sociando-Mallet 86 Current blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in Source Reviewer RatingTasted Maturity (Release) has a striking nose: blackberry, burnt match, col Cost pepper. Incongruous to other 2000s, although it Wine Advocate # 189 Drink: 2015 Robert Parker 94+ charm. I am less keen $88-$175 on the palate, which cont Jun 2010 2035 Wine Journal Home herbaceous element but it does not knit well with Upgraded in score over my originalTasting rating, which was several pointsas lower, Alfred Tesseron Search Neal's Notes palate, if this wine wants to do two different th has done a remarkable job since 1994 with Pontet-Canet,2000 which or hasabeen hitting first-growth leaner off-vintage. Hard, bitter finish, t Wine Journal Archive levels since 2003. But the 2000 also shows exceptionally well. In need of another decade of 2010.charcoal, creme de cassis, and cellaring, this dense purple wine has a classic nose of incense, Producer Profiles subtle new oak. Full-bodied, powerful, still very tannic, and backward, this is a big, Inshockingly bond price: £420/case. Book/Film Reviews rich wine that has put on weight and seems to need more time than I originally predicted. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2035+. Album of the Month

2000 Chateau Chasse-Spleen 91 Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in Add totime, Print List opens up nicely with blackberry, plum, blac palate is full-bodied with grippy tannins on the en masculine, a saline note towards the cedar and Drink: 2011 $88-$175 92 2030Chasse Spleen (47) showing for and comes recomm March 2010. Like its neighbor, Mouton Rothschild, this wine seems to have closed down considerably In bond price: £500/case.after Visit the Wine Journal Forum Interviews Bordeaux Vintage Guide Wine Advocate # 146 Robert Parker Apr 2003 About Neal Martin

bottling. The impressively saturated opaque purple color offers up some promising aromas of black currants, vanilla, truffle, smoke, and mineral. In the mouth, it is full-bodied, powerful, Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte 95 Quick Links layered, and enticingly textured, but oh, so backward and 2000 firm. The finish is long, but this broodingly backward, Pontet-Canet will require considerable Does itIndex’s 2000 tasting in What'slarge-scaled New Tasted blind patience. at Bordeaux rival the brilliant 1995 orWine 1996?Buys I am not sure. Anticipated coquettishly maturity: 2011-2030. Weekly opening up with pure red-fruits, esp

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bureau. Good definition. The palate is full-bodied Drink: 2010 $88-$175 thread the dense, rip 2030that counterbalanced (47) the elements are here for a great wine, with note Wine Advisor Updates freshly by rolled tobacco. Persistent, grippy and A stunning offering the 2000. An opaque purple color isand accompanied an impressive 2010isTWA Editorial Calendar aromatic display of pure creme de cassis, high quality oak, sweet earth, March 2010.and smoke. It is a steely, extremely long classic with noticeable tannin as well as fine concentration and power, bond price: £500/case. Ratings On broodingly The Go backward, hulkingInPontet-Canet and a 45-second finish. This will require patience.

mation Wine Seminars the Week te of the Month Merit ne an

More Information TastedDrink: blind at- Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in Wine Advocate # 134 2007 Robert Parker (92-95) Executive Wine Seminars Apr 2001 nose with2030 aromas of $88-$175 wild strawberry, cherry, Pro 97 Cartoon of the Week do with more vigour. Very ripe and generous on Vino from Vignette the Month A spectacular effort PontetofCanet. The opaque ruby/purple-colored offers a with ripe black cherry, ras defined and2000 cohesive,

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                 

Mark Squires' Bulletin Board

                      on eRobertParker.com - TN: Pontet-Canet Vertical wit... Page 2 sur  

      http://dat.erobertparker.com/bboard/showthread.php?t=218387&highlight=PONTET+... 26/11/2010                                                          

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Producer Clos des Papes Lafite-Rothschild Pontet-Canet Domaine de la Janasse Pierre Usseglio Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Vieux Donjon Il Poggione Latour Chateau Beaucastel Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Petrus Saxum Pontet-Canet Domaine de la Janasse Ducru Beaucaillou Tenuta San Guido Montrose Pontet-Canet Domaine de Ferrand Gazin Chateau de Saint Cosme Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Mouton-Rothschild Mas de Boislauzon Montrose Vignobles Brunier Duhart-Milon-Rothschild Shafer Vineyards Fontodi Haut Bailly Quilceda Creek Clos Saint-Jean Mouton-Rothschild Clos du Mont Olivet Chateau Margaux Troplong-Mondot Domaine de Saint-Prefert Trotanoy Cos d'Estournel Clinet Opus One Domaine Gerard Charvin Lafite-Rothschild Lascombes Mouton-Rothschild Haut Brion Siro Pacenti Clos des Papes Leoville-Las Cases Mouton-Rothschild Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Le Gay Louis Roederer Leoville-Barton Ausone Domaine Santa Duc

Label Name Chateauneuf du Pape Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Vieilles Vignes Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de Mon Aieul Bolgheri DOC Rosso Superiore Ornellaia Chateauneuf du Pape Brunello di Montalcino Chateauneuf du Pape Masseto James Berry Vineyard Proprietary Red Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Chaupin Sassicaia Chateauneuf du Pape Gigondas Hominis Fides Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee du Quet Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select Flaccianello della Pieve Vino da Tavola Cabernet Sauvignon Chateauneuf du Pape Deus Ex Machina Chateauneuf du Pape la Cuvee du Papet Chateauneuf du Pape Collecion Charles Gira

Proprietary Red Wine Chateauneuf du Pape

Brunello di Montalcino Chateauneuf du Pape

Cristal Gigondas Prestige des Hautes Garrigues

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# of Views 15,008 14,828 14,282 8,960 8,060 7,676 7,605 7,406 7,268 7,058 6,890 6,579 6,566 6,542 6,519 6,429 6,338 6,306 6,192 6,189 6,168 6,102 6,020 5,937 5,832 5,787 5,742 5,645 5,555 5,547 5,502 5,445 5,414 5,412 5,318 5,312 5,291 5,261 5,193 5,138 5,114 4,992 4,989 4,979 4,976 4,901 4,811 4,791 4,766 4,760 4,722 4,691 4,625 4,599 4,584 4,499 4,478

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er alfred tesseron of pauillac chateau pontet canet | Escape Hatch - Dallas divers

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winemaker alfred tesseron of pauillac chateau pontet canet | Escape Hatch - Dallas

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Famed Winemaker Alfred Tesseron to be Hono

Winemaker Alfred Tesseron to be Honored at Cotes Du Coeur Gala 10Alfred Tesseron to be Honored at Cotes Du Coeur Gala Famed April Winemaker 0 April 10

ch 29th, 2010 By Rebecca Marmaduke By Rebecca Posted 29th,Marmaduke 2010 Posted on March 29th, 2010on March es du Coeur, DrinkArchived in Cotes du Coeur, Drink Archived in Cotes du Coeur, Drink In (All Posts) This, This Way In (All Posts) Leave a comment This, This Way In (All Posts) ent

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One Response to “Famed Winemaker Alfred Tesseron to be Honored at Cotes Du Coeur Gala April 10” 121The vineyard's working girls.

The Pontet-Canet estate follows biodynamic agriculture pr

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                           



                   

    

 

                   

 

   

 

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Tasting Pontet-Canet's Biodynamic Bordeaux

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Le groupe Duclot et Lafayette Gourmet créent à | Paris la Bordeauxthèque, plus grande cave de bordeaux au monde

Il fallait un décor à la mesure de l'événement. Il y a donc une ville de 70 000 m² bâtie au coeur de Paris. Les Galeries Lafayette du boulevard Haussmann, 104 ans, reçoivent chaque année l'équivalent d'une moitié de la population française. Le plus gros magasin de détaxe du monde a cette particularité d'être tout juste un peu moins couru que la tour Eiffel. Sous la coupole classée, les lumières aimantent les nuées touristiques. On parle mandarin et cantonais pour accueillir poliment les Chinois, en tête de la clientèle étrangère, avant les Américains et les Japonais. Personne ne s'y refuse rien. L'autre jour, un Hindou est reparti de la bijouterie avec une parure à 450 000 euros. La mégapole des marques respire l'élégance, le produit ciblé, le voyage lointain. Vingt-sept points de restauration jalonnent le parcours. Au milieu s'étale le Lafayette Gourmet, un village de 400 m² entièrement consacré aux plaisirs de la table. La France fait portes ouvertes. La Bordeauxthèque est là, dans la proximité de la gourmandise. À l'entrée, Philippe Thomas, directeur avisé de l'alimentation et de la restauration, semble ravi du pacte qu'il vient de sceller avec Jean-François Moueix et son fils Jean, les négociants bordelais du groupe Duclot. Le bébé est unique au monde.

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Bordeaux, l'image porteuse Philippe Thomas explique son choix. « Nous avons fait le pari que la qualité de l'offre et la diversité des vins de Bordeaux méritaient un développement spécifique. Au-delà du plus grand vignoble du monde qui magnifie les terroirs, nous avons voulu mettre en valeur la dimension accessible et oecuménique de Bordeaux. La région diffuse un art de vivre. C'est une image très porteuse, même si les cartes de vin à Paris, de manière un peu injustifiée, ne le mentionnent pas. La Bordeauxthèque est un site marchand, simple à utiliser, qui porte en même temps le culte de ces vins-là. Il faut que le néophyte comprenne et que l'amateur s'y retrouve. » Toi qui entres ici, abandonne tout espoir de trouver un bourgogne. Bordeaux partout, voilà la vérité. Le couloir s'ouvre vers la corne d'abondance estampillée Moueix, qui ne se fournit qu'à la propriété. Aucun de ces vins n'a jamais quitté Bordeaux. À gauche, à l'entrée, nous voici avec ceux qui luttent hors des magazines chics, les vins qui démarrent à 3,90 Đ pour les rouges et 5 Đ pour les blancs, sans jamais dépasser les 25 Đ, tel ce Baron de Brane-Cantenac. Le prix les classe. Un plombier de Garges-lès-Gonesse ou un général du Kazakhstan peuvent s'emparer d'un flacon en fonction du billet disponible. Plus loin, les magnums à moins de 50 euros et les doubles magnums à moins de 100 euros. En face, les « bons rapports qualité-prix ». À droite aussi l'espace dévolu aux trois ou quatre viticulteurs mis en lumière chaque mois. Visiblement, des propriétés confirmées et d'autres qui méritent de le devenir. Avec un choix saisonnier de rosés. Ici, le vin est facile d'accès, palpable tout de suite. C'est le vin sans peine pour tous. Au bout du couloir, un deuxième espace s'enroule autour de la rotonde. À gauche, la zone « Rive gaucherive droite » des crus bourgeois, dont certains sont mis en avant - en l'occurrence Chasse-Spleen - et les seconds vins disposés en deux parties : le second de grand cru et le second de premier grand cru. Devant nous, dix millésimes des Forts de Latour, le second de Latour. Se profilent sur la gauche les contenants hors normes. Impériales, jéroboams, nabuchodonosors. Un 15 litres de Lynch-Bages 2000 - quelle émotion ! précède les magnums de grands crus classés par appellation. Puis les millésimes antérieurs à 1975, soudés aux tiroirs. Il n'est pas possible de les décrocher sans voir surgir la gendarmerie. Touchons néanmoins furtivement un Cos d'Estournel 1985. Suivent sauternes, blancs secs et demi-bouteilles pour petites ambitions.

Le groupe Du Paris la Bord bordeaux au m

Il fallait un dé a donc une v Paris. Les Haussmann, l'équivalent française. Le monde a cet peu moins c coupole clas nuées touris cantonais pou tête de la Américains e Les Primeurs 2009 par Angélique Le sanctuaire Lencquesaing, iDealwine.com refuse rien. L La rotonde extérieure est organisée dans une logique géographique. Le voyage commence à Saint-Estèphe « La grand-messe de primeurs a dé et se poursuit par Pauillac (huit millésimes de Pontet-Canet) les trois Léoville, Saint-Julien, Margaux. On pour les la liquoreux Sweet et battra sa bijouterie 15.03.2010 change de rive en tournant, Pomerol, Saint-Émilion, Pessac-Léognan avant de revenir à Saint-Estèphe. La balade initiatique, toujours, mène à l'intérieur de la rotonde où veille la garde royale sous une lumière La mégapole intimiste. L'espace des grands est une chapelle ceinte des portraits de philosophes grecs et romains de Jim ciblé, Dine, figure américaine du pop art. Margaux, Lafitte, Latour, Mouton, Haut-Brion, Mission Haut-Brion, Primeurproduit 2009, un millésime exce Cheval-Blanc et Petrus sont là en majesté. Petite accélération du coeur avec un Margaux 1961, un Hautpériode de crise : le temps des af de restauratio Brion 1989, un Mouton 1945 à 20 000 euros. Ils contemplent Yquem au centre, célébré comme la Vierge « Les grands crus de Bordeaux se d noire de Jasna Góra dans le sanctuaire de Czestochowa. Le sauternes, représenté par 24 millésimes sous réservent en primeurs à partir de [.. Au milieu s'ét 17.03.2010 Plexiglas, de 1899 à 2006, doit autant cette auréole christique à son génie qu'à ses couleurs d'automne en feu. Ici, dans les dégradés du peintre, hors du temps, on pourrait considérer qu'il s'agit d'un espace culturel, de 400 m² en quelque chose qui tiendrait du musée de l'Ermitage à Saint-Pétersbourg ou du Moma, le musée d'Art moderne de New York. Mais qu'une équipe permanente de sommeliers raconte. Revue de Terre de Vins lapresse table. Laa « En marge Le monde du vin a rend La Bordeauxthèque, cave exclusive, est en réalité est un moment à vivre. Pour la première semaine à Bordeaux où se déroulen Bordeauxthèque là, somptueux dans la proximité defois,launegourmandise. À l'entrée, P 01.04.2010 vitrine permet d'embrasser, dans l'unité de lieu, l'empire des appellations bordelaises, des tableaux méconnus aux chefs-d'oeuvre de l'élite. C'est-àdire cette capacité unique à affirmer la civilisation du vin l'alimentation et de la restauration, semble ravi du pacte qu'il vient de sc jusqu'aux tréfonds de la planète. son fils Jean, les négociants bordelais du groupe Duclot. Le bébé est uniq Christian Seguin - Sud Ouest Partager :

Bordeaux, l'image porteuse Philippe Thomas explique son choix. « Nous avons fait le pari que la qua 134 de Bordeaux méritaient un développement spécifique. Au-delà du pl magnifie les terroirs, nous avons voulu mettre en valeur la dimensio

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relaxation that it enjoys in the west. Instead it might be served to thank a business associate, a government official, or ‘a principal who has admitted your child to their school’. There are Chinese who really enjoy wines, but they are the minority for the moment.

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At question time, slightly abbreviated by the need for all participants to don their ‘festive dress’ in time for the long bus ride up the Médoc, Jeannie was asked by Sarah Abbott MW about how genuine the fine wines in commercial circulation are. Jeannie said some buyers will buy anyway but savvy consumers know all about what questions to ask about provenance. Sarah Abbott was concerned that in Asia there is a distinct lack of a secondary market for fine wine. ‘Some companies emphasise provenance more than others,’ she was told. Poh Tiong predicted, ‘short of economic catastrophe, the wine market in China will double in the next five years or so – although wine growth is actually pretty slow compared to the growth of sales of luxury handbags, cars etc.’

News

American writer EdYour McCarthy returned to Sarah Abbott’s them with the Our wine views views Videos Maps Oxford question ‘What will you do about fake wines?’ Moses Tsang’s response ‘we buy through very prominent brokers’ felt less than wholly satisfactory. Moses Tsang explained ‘I gave 40 cases juillet from my cellar to [US auctioneers] Zachy’s to  help get auctions going in Hong Kong, but prices had zoomed up by the second auction’.

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On the subject of Chinese fakery, Poh Tiong told us that many people deliberately buy their Chinese medicines in Singapore to take back to China to give as gifts in China because they feel they can trust Singapore retailers more. He also said, by about the Chinese and Bordeaux primeurs, ‘three years 6 Jul 2010 Jancis Robinson ago we thought the Chinese wouldn’t buy primeurs because they couldn’t touch the goods they had paid for, but now they do buy primeurs, seeing them like an investment ... in, say, copper whereby you pay now and get it later’.

The final Saturday afternoon session, and the last one I atten Andreturn on that worrying note, weearly broke up for the day,morning* only to meet again a to London Sunday wasatentitled ‘Forging great dinner at Pontet Canet where our host Alfred Tesseron served, inter alia, Asian markets and a topical t three red bordeaux blind with thethe main international course to our entirewine group ofindustry’, 300+, symposium participants plus owners and so on. We were told there involved a little bitchâteau of overlap with Judy Leissner’s entertaining was no relation between them and had to hand in our guesses, with a prize for market described (I should point out that the the Chinese top tasters. They were clearly good wines here. and, I thought, from good vintages in the 1980s,was but it didn’t occur toLinks, me that our wouldbeing have been so the progra symposium Forging thehostidea that generous. They turned out to be Chx Mouton 1988, Latour 1986 and Lafite ratio of receptions and meals, was designed to maximise net 1985. (I’d say there was a connection between those three…) certainly noticeable that there was none of the ‘MWs v the re In a raucous presentation, the tasters whose notes were plucked out of... several detectable at some the early MW symposia. strongest (most?) correct answers as winnerof and runner up were Linda Jotham MW (My of the one UK and Simonetti-Bryan of the US.Wine Most successful blind tasters atJennifer Cambridge was of the Spectator team desperate among non MWs were Francois Lurton (brother of symposium co-organiser rather university a hotel room with air conditio Jacques) andquaint Jean-Guillaume Prats oftown Ch Cosfor d’Estournel. Marvin Shanken.) I will be publishing notes on these blind wines and all wines I tasted during these great two and half days in Bordeaux.

Moderator Jeannie Cho Lee MWLegends: had put wor *The session I regretfully missed was entitled 'Modern Fame,considerable Fortune andsession Lessons to be Learned'our with Paul Draper of night Ridge, Peter Gago of Penfolds before Saturday gala dinner at Ch PontetGrange, Alvaro Palacios of Spain and Paul Pontallier of Ch Margaux, all She began by reminding us ofany the results Chinese censo moderated by Jean-Michel Valette MW. (Putting of these namesof in our general box for of site; willin yield rich results.) no search Twitter etc'Rest allowed China (as evinced by this recent th

As for ownership of wine enterprises, China offered the part Tags: MW option 2010 symposium third afterBordeaux family and corporation ownership: governm [Back to top]

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‘When considering Asian markets I always look at Japan be

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                 juillet                                           

    Erreur ! Référence de lien hypertexte non Erreur ! Référence de lien hypertexte non       valide. valide.                 Erreur ! Référence de lien hypertexte non Erreur ! Référence de lien hypertexte non    valide. valide.   Erreur ! Référence de lien hypertexte non Erreur ! Référence de lien hypertexte non   valide. valide. Erreur ! Référence de lien hypertexte non Erreur ! Référence de lien hypertexte non   valide. valide.   Erreur ! Référence de lien hypertexte non Erreur ! Référence de lien hypertexte non   valide. valide.   Erreur ! Référence de lien hypertexte non Erreur ! Référence de lien hypertexte non   valide. valide.                                                                                         

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"Pontet-Canet : un grand cru de Bordeaux produit en bio et biodynamie " 24 septembre 2010 Le grand cru du Médoc devrait être certifié bio cette année. Les principes de l’agriculture biodynamique y sont également très largement appliqués. Une reconversion parfois difficile mais qui s’avère payante : le succès commercial est au rendez-vous .

Pourquoi ?

C’est avant tout pour des raisons de qualité que les responsables du domaine de Pontet-Canet à Pauillac dans le Médoc ont décidé il y a quelques années de s’orienter vers le bio puis la biodynamie. En continuant avec des méthodes conventionnelles, ils craignaient de perdre à terme en qualité. « Les grands vins sont tous basés sur de grands terroirs. Or nous étions petit à petit en train de détruire nos sols», insiste Jean-Michel Comme, le régisseur du domaine. Concrètement, les pesticides utilisés étaient en train de tuer tous les champignons et la vie présente dans le sol. En passant dans les rangs de vigne, les tracteurs tassaient la terre, ce qui n’est pas bon, là encore pour la vie qui est dedans. Les pieds de vigne étaient souvent abimés au passage des engins. Ils n’étaient plus bien ancrés dans le sol. « Or des pieds de vigne affaiblis c’est comme une personne qui n’a pas une bonne hygiène de vie, ils sont plus sensibles aux maladies », explique le régisseur.

Comment ?

La conversion de Pontet-Canet au bio puis à la biodynamie est étroitement liée au cheminement personnel qu’a connu son régisseur. Ingénieur et œnologue de formation, Jean-Michel Comme qui travaille sur le domaine depuis plus de 20 ans a très longtemps fait comme on lui avait appris pendant ses études. « On nous avait dit que la chimie et la mécanique étaient la solution idéale et définitive. Progressivement je me suis rendu compte que les choses n’étaient pas aussi simples». Il y a une dizaine d’année, la survenue autour de lui de maladies graves chez des personnes qui toute leur vie avaient travaillé la terre l’a amené à une profonde remise en question. Il s’est interrogé – et inquiété - sur le rôle de l’alimentation dans la santé. Il a commencé à avoir envie d’explorer d’autres modes de culture. En plus de son travail à Pontet-Canet, Jean-Michel Comme exploite avec sa femme un vignoble de 10 ha, le Château du Champs des Treilles à Sainte Foy. C’est là qu’il va expérimenter et apprendre d’autres façons de travailler. Dans sa nouvelle formation : beaucoup de lectures, énormément d’observation et de temps passer sur le terrain. En 2004, en même temps qu’il obtient la certification bio pour son vignoble, il s’intéresse de plus en plus à la biodynamie. 14 ha sont testés avec ces méthodes à Pontet-Canet sur les 80 ha que compte le domaine. « En biodynamie, on s’efforce de comprendre les phénomènes, à chercher les causes avant de tenter un traitement ou une action. Il s’agit par exemple de comprendre pourquoi à tel moment tel insecte ravageur va se multiplier à tel endroit et pas à tel autre». Là encore dans sa formation, on retrouve beaucoup de lectures et des échanges avec des personnes qui agissent et énormément de temps passer sur le terrain.

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de vigne, les tracteurs tassaient la terre, ce qui n’est pas bon, là encore pour la vie qui est dedans. Les pieds de vigne étaient souvent abimés au passage des engins. Ils n’étaient plus bien ancrés dans le sol. « Or des pieds de vigne affaiblis c’est comme une personne qui n’a pas une bonne hygiène de vie, ils sont plus sensibles aux maladies », explique le régisseur.

Comment ?

septembre

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En 2007, l’approche biodynamique vient réellement au premier plan dans ses méthodes que ce soit au Champs des Treilles ou à Pontet-Canet : cette année fut très difficile pour le vignoble avec des attaques virulentes de mildiou. « Nous avons perdu notre récolte. Nous nous sommes dits qu’il fallait vraiment trouver d’autres façons de faire pour que cela ne se reproduise pas ». A Pontet-Canet cette année-là aussi les dégâts causés par les maladies sont très sévères. Alors que le vignoble était dans sa troisième et dernière année de conversion avant l’obtention du label bio, le propriétaire décide en dernier recours de traiter en conventionnel. « Nous avons fait trois traitements en quinze jours fin juillet et du coup il a fallu tout reprendre à zéro pour la conversion », raconte le régisseur. Une période difficile qui ne remet pourtant pas en cause les décisions prises. A Pontet-Canet, les quelques 50 salariés qui travaillent sur le domaine, d’abord septiques devant ses nouvelles méthodes – « quand on prépare des tisanes d’orties ce n’est pas très commun » - ont peu à peu vu les avantages qu’ils pouvaient en tirer : plus d’odeurs de produits chimiques à respirer, plus de boutons ni de rougeurs dès qu’ils touchent les feuillent... Du côté de leur travail, pas de changement radical cependant : le travail sur un vignoble de grand cru est en effet resté très largement manuel et si en biodynamie il est souvent recommandé de faire les traitements tôt le matin, ces personnes étaient déjà habituées à travailler tôt. Pour limiter les passages des tracteurs dans le vignoble, le projet se fait jour d’intégrer des chevaux de trait sur le domaine. Pas pour le folklore mais bien pour travailler réellement. L’objectif est d’être capable de tout faire avec des chevaux. Mais attention, il ne s’agit pas non plus de demander aux salariés de marcher toute la journée derrière les bêtes comme par le passé. A terme, si tout le domaine est exploité avec des chevaux ce sont 10 meneurs qui vont être nécessaires. Une voiture d’un genre un peu particulier est alors mise au point à la propriété. « Les gens sont tractés par un cheval mais ils sont assis. Ils ont des conditions de travail modernes, sans pénibilité particulière. Des panneaux solaires assurent l’éclairage », explique Jean-Michel Comme. Depuis trois ans, ce sont trois chevaux qui arpentent les vignes de Pontet-Canet. En 2010, 24 ha ont été travaillés de cette manière.

Pour quels résultats ?

A Pontet Canet la récolte 2010 sera cette fois-ci certifiée bio. Une première pour un grand cru classé du Médoc. Il y a bien quelques essais dans d’autres domaines mais ils ne concernent pour le moment que de petites surfaces et pas la totalité de l’exploitation comme ici. Alors que le secteur viticole connait pour certains de grandes difficultés, Pontet-Canet est épargné. Les résultats commerciaux des dernières années ont été bons. Le domaine n’affichera cependant pas sur ses bouteilles le logo AB : paradoxalement en effet l’image des vins bio n’est aujourd’hui pas toujours très bonne, pas rattachée en tous les cas à l’univers des grands crus. Pas de logo donc mais une démarche qui continue plus que jamais. Auteur : Juliette Lakits

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Pontet-Canet

wo things have made Pontet-Canet a topic of conversation for Bordeaux lovers in recent years: the dramatic rise in the quality of the wine, and the decision to work the vineyard biodynamically. To my knowledge, Pontet-Canet is the only Médoc classed growth to have taken this bold initiative. Others have ongoing trials in parcels of vines, but none has around 80ha (200 acres) worked in this way. The question, however, remains: are these two talking points related? Alfred Tesseron, Pontet-Canet’s owner, certainly hopes so. As he says, “The leitmotif is not the organics but making better wine.” It was Alfred’s father, Cognac merchant Guy Tesseron, who bought the estate in 1975. Prior to that, Pontet-Canet had been owned by the négociant Cruse since 1865. The wine was well known in France (particularly on French railways) thanks to the distribution network of the Cruse family. But until 1972 it was bottled at the merchant’s cellars in Bordeaux, occasionally without a vintage date, and the property and wine were treated generally as just another brand. Alfred Tesseron admits that after the purchase, in the 1970s and ’80s, there was little money for investment. The vineyard was in poor shape, and a programme of grubbing up and replanting was initiated; this lasted into the 1990s. A second wine, Les Hauts de Pontet-Canet, was introduced in 1982 to improve selection, and green-harvesting was trialled in 1989, becoming systematic, until recently, from 1994. A new cuvier was also created. Since 1999, investment in the winery has been on a much larger scale. Buildings for bottle storage and agricultural equipment have been constructed, the barrel cellar enlarged and renovated, and the cuvier redefined. This now contains 16 wooden vats and 32 conical 80hl concrete vats, as well as sorting tables for the harvest. The vineyard is divided into two blocks. The core area, representing two thirds of the plantings,

Above: One of the horses now employed in Pontet-Canet’s vineyards, where they compact the soil less than tractors

surrounds the 19th-century château on a plateau opposite Mouton Rothschild. In fact, there are two undulating croupes here that rise to a high point of 30m (100ft). These elevated sections with deep Günzian gravel soils are considered the noblest terroir, the inclines having a greater proportion of sand and clay. The other sector is located just north of the town of Pauillac. The soils are more varied and principally Merlot is planted here. The move to biodynamics was initiated and has been driven by Jean-Michel Comme, the technical director at Pontet-Canet for the past 20 years. “On reflection, it seemed the best solution to avoid chemicals and maintain quality,” he says. The process, though, has been gradual. Pesticides were abandoned in 2001 and weedkiller in 2003, with an initial 14ha (35 acres) converted

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Above: Pontet-Canet’s owner Alfred Tesseron, who has boldly backed the move to convert his vineyards to biodynamics

FINEST WINES

to biodynamics in 2004. Since 2005, the whole vineyard has been biodynamic, with the process to full conversion delayed by a decision to spray for mildew in 2007. “We regretted it in the end, since other properties took a loss like us, but 15 days after spraying, we’d returned to biodynamics,” Comme explains. According to Comme, the vineyard has found a natural balance since 2008. They now do very little green-harvesting or trimming and are trialling horses to work the vines. He pointed to one parcel that produced a natural 45hl/ha in 2008 and said it would be the same in 2009. It is in this parcel that the link between practice and quality is most apparent—a link that Comme describes succinctly: “It’s knowledge of the terroir by observation that counts, which means being morally and physically present all the time.” Comme is a hard-bitten convert; Alfred Tesseron, I suspect, less so—but while the quality is there, he’s happy to take the road. 92

Château Pontet-Canet The vineyard is 60% CS, 33% M, 5% CF, and 2% PV. The grapes are gravity-fed and crushed over the tanks. In keeping with the natural approach, only indigenous yeasts are used, and the temperature of each tank is regulated manually. Aging is in 60% new oak barrels. The wines themselves are deep in colour, dense, and powerful—the masculine side of Pauillac in full cry. Patience is needed before they can be broached. The nearest comparison would be a wine like Pichon-Longueville. Quality has been particularly high since 2000. 2001 More immediate charm than some recent vintages but still has the tannins to age. Blackcurrant notes and a minerally freshness on the finish. 2003 Deep colour. Rather closed, with a robust tannic frame. Fresh for the vintage. Needs time. Château Pontet-Canet Total area: 120ha (300 acres) Area under vine: 81ha (200 acres) Average production: grand vin 250,000 bottles; second wine 100,000 bottles 33250 Pauillac Tel: +33 5 56 59 04 04 www.pontet-canet.com

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JournalLive - Taste - Taste Columnists - Helen Savage - Pick of the bunch

Hot Topics » Kielder Marathon (http://www.journallive.co.uk/tags/kielder-marathon/) Hot Topics » Kielder Marathon (http://www.journallive.co.uk/tags/kielder-marathon/) Centre for Life (http://www.journallive.co.uk/tags/centre-for-life/) Hatem Ben Arfa (http://www.neurl.co.uk/1656 ) Centre for Life (http://www.journallive.co.uk/tags/centre-for-life/) Hatem Ben Arfa (http://www.neurl.co.uk/1656 ) Bellingham (http://www.neurl.co.uk/1818 ) All Topics... (http://www.journallive.co.uk/tags/) Bellingham (http://www.neurl.co.uk/1818 ) All Topics... (http://www.journallive.co.uk/tags/)

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Pick of the bunch Pick of the bunch Oct 8 2010

Hot Topics » Kielder Marathon (http://www.journallive.co.uk/tags/kielder-marathon/) Oct 8 2010

octobre

(http://www.journallive.co.uk/northCentre for Life (http://www.journallive.co.uk/tags/centre-for-life/) Hatem Ben Arfa (http://www.neurl.co.uk/165 (http://www.journallive.co.uk/northeast-taste/wine-reviews/helenBellingham (http://www.neurl.co.uk/1818 ) All Topics... (http://www.journallive.co.uk/tags/) east-taste/wine-reviews/helensavage/2010/10/08/) savage/2010/10/08/)

Pick of the bunch

By Helen Savage, The Journal

Add a comment (#sitelife-

commentsWidget-bottom)

Add a comment (#sitel

CHÂTEAU Pontet-Canet makes some of the best red Oct 8 2010 commentsWidget-bo CHÂTEAU Pontet-Canet makes some of theRecommend best red (#none) Recom (http://www.journallive.co.uk/northwines in Bordeaux. east-taste/wine-reviews/helenwines in Bord Its magnificent savage/2010/10/08/) Its magnificen vineyards are By Helen Savage, The Journal are Add avineyards comment (#s cheek by jowl with cheek by jow commentsWidget CHÂTEAU Pontet-Canet makes some those of theofbest red Châteaux R those of Chât Mouton-Rothschild Mouton-Roth wines in B and Lafite in the and in Its Lafite magnifi heart of the village heart of the v vineyards of Pauillac, the of Pauillac, th source of the cheek by j source of the world’s greatest thosegreate of C world’s and most Mouton-R and most expensive expensive and Lafite Cabernet Cabernet heart of th Sauvignon. Sauvignon. It’s a large estate

of Pauillac

source It’s a largeofest and one of the oldest estates in the Médoc. Some 81 of its 120 hectares are and one of the oldest estates in the Médoc. Some 81 of its 120 hectares world’sare gre planted with vines. Around two-thirds of them are Cabernet Sauvignon; the rest are the re planted with vines. Around two-thirds of them are Cabernet Sauvignon; and most mostly Merlot with a little bit of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. They are planted mostly Merlot with a little bit of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. They are pla expensive in long, low, narrow rows on unforgiving, deep, gravel soils beneath huge skies, in long, low, narrow rows on unforgiving, deep, gravel soils beneath huge skie which on the day I visited last month, were grey and rather lonely. Cabernet which on the day I visited last month, were grey and rather lonely.

Sauvignon

Pontet-Canet was classified as one of the top 60 estates of the Médoc in 1855 Pontet-Canet was classified as one of the top 60 estates of the Médoc in 185 when France chose to showcase its finest goods to the world in a great exhibition when France chose to showcase its finest goods to the world in a It’s great exhib a large in Paris, but it was placed in the fifth of five ranks. but it was placedininthe the Médoc. fifth of fiveSome ranks.81 of its 120 hectares ar and one inofParis, the oldest estates

At times over the next 130 years itvines. made wines so good that it was clear itare should Cabernet planted with them At times overAround the next two-thirds 130 years it of made wines so good that Sauvignon; it was clear it the sho have been ranked higher, but since the mid-1990s its quality has been such that if JournalLive - Taste - Taste Columnists Helen Savage Pick of the bunch Page 2 sur 4 mostly Merlot withranked a littlehigher, bit of but Cabernet and Petit Verdot. Theysuch areth have been since theFranc mid-1990s its quality has been the classification were ever to be re-drawn, which vested interests will never the classification were to be re-drawn, vested interests will huge never s in long, low, narrow rows onever unforgiving, deep,which gravel soils beneath permit, it would offer the clearest of cases for promotion. it would offer last the clearest casesgrey for promotion. which onpermit, the day I visited month,ofwere and rather lonely.

In 1975 it was bought by Guy Tesseron, the owner of a Cognac house. His son

Alfred now shares Pontet-Canet control of the estate his niece whotop showed me was with classified asMélanie, one of the 60 estates of the Médoc in 1 around. They are lucky have thechose services of a brilliant its technical JeanwhentoFrance to showcase finest director, goods to the world in a great ex http://www.journallive.co.uk/north-east-taste/wine-reviews/helen-savage/2010/10/08/... 18/10/2010 Michel Comme, who has been he hardly http://www.journallive.co.uk/north-east-taste/wine-reviews/helen-savage/2010/10/08/... in Paris, butatitPontet-Canet was placedsince in the1989 fifth–ofthough five ranks. looks old enough.

At times over the next 130 years it made wines so good that it was clear it

Alfred introduced exacting new standards of work in the vineyards, but Jean-Michel

higher, the mid-1990s its quality has been suc converted to biodynamic has persuaded himhave to gobeen furtherranked and allow them but to besince classification to to befollow re-drawn, whichform vested viticulture, the first the of the great estateswere in theever Médoc this exacting of interests will neve permit, it would offerhomeopathic the clearest of cases organics that involves the use of a strict spray regimefor andpromotion. careful attention to the movement of the moon, planets and distant constellations.

...

Mélanie told me that “if it didn’t work we’d give it up”; and in 2007, faced with a devastating attack of mildew, they did just that and resorted to conventional 165

chemical sprays. They now rather regret it and delight in the evident health of the

http://www.journallive.co.uk/north-east-taste/wine-reviews/helen-savage/2010/10/08/.

Alfred now shares control of the estate with his niece Mélanie, who showed me around. They are lucky to have the services of a brilliant technical director, JeanMichel Comme, who has been at Pontet-Canet since 1989 – though he hardly looks old enough. Alfred introduced exacting new standards of work in the vineyards, but Jean-Michel has persuaded him to go further and allow them to be converted to biodynamic viticulture, the first of the great estates in the Médoc to follow this exacting form of

octobre organics that involves the use of a strict homeopathic spray regime and careful

...

attention to the movement of the moon, planets and distant constellations. Mélanie told me that “if it didn’t work we’d give it up”; and in 2007, faced with a devastating attack of mildew, they did just that and resorted to conventional chemical sprays. They now rather regret it and delight in the evident health of the soil now that biodynamics has been reinstated. The vines are severely pruned, “we’re always trying to bonsai them”, says Mélanie; but, the homeopathic sprays and other permitted treatment apart, unlike other growers, they largely leave them alone during the growing season. They don’t reduce the crop by cutting the number of bunches when they begin to ripen, nor do they pluck away leaves to expose the bunches. Mélanie argues that the vines have sufficient aeration and all the leaves are needed to bring sugar to the fruit. The tight bunches of deep blue grapes certainly looked healthy. Mélanie was excited about the prospects for the 2010 vintage. “It’s been a fantastic season,” she said, “similar to 2009. May, June and July were hotter. August was a bit cooler, though very dry and September has been perfect.” Harvest began in the last week of September. The latest members of the team are a trio of Breton draught horses, Reine, Kakou and Opal, who together work about a third of the estate. Now that it is not subject to tractor tyres, the soil is obviously far less compacted. “It’s as if you’ve been wearing tight shoes all day and can’t wait to take them off,” says Mélanie, who after several years working in London offices, knows exactly what she’s talking about. The team has also brought a number of changes to the winery. The most striking is JournalLive - Taste - Taste Columnists - Helen Savage - Pick of the bunch Page 3 sur 4 the introduction of an army of small bell-shaped concrete fermentation tanks made out of thick, raw concrete.

They allow small lots to be vinified separately and the thick concrete walls hold the wine at a stable, consistent temperature. The wines made in them, Mélanie says, seem softer and more complex. Jean-Michel Comme, the “guru” behind Pontet-Canet’s success is quietly spoken http://www.journallive.co.uk/north-east-taste/wine-reviews/helen-savage/2010/10/08/... 18/10/2010 but very clear about what he wants to do and about his responsibilities to the estate’s 50-strong work force. He admits that adopting a biodynamic regime was a risk, but when in 2008 the team tasted the new vintage and “for the first time in my 22 years at Pontet-Canet, they laughed for the sheer joy of what had been achieved together, it sent shivers down my spine”. Mélanie is determined that Pontet-Canet should make wine as good as its most famous neighbours. It’s expensive, of course. An advance order of a case of the

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brilliant 2009 will set you back about £1,600, but Lafite costs 10 times more. The difference in quality is very small. If you love the incredible, seductive complexity of

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Chateau Pontet Canet, A Little Bit Of Luxury From The Vineyards - VERYBEST.C...

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decembre Chateau Pontet Canet, A Little Bit Of Luxury From The Vineyards Editorial | Image Courtesy Of Chateau Pontet Canet

Guy Tesseron bought the Chateau while it was undergoing hard times in 1975 and today the Chateau is run by Guy's son, Alfred Tesseron assisted by his niece Melanie. During the early 18th century Jean Francois Pontet brought together several of the very best vineyards in Pauillac. Some years later, descendents added more vines and named it Canet. This was to be the start of one of the largest luxury estates in Medoc. Almost a century later Pontet Canet was included in the 1855 classification, ensuring membership among the very best of Medoc. Henry Cruse an important Bordeaux shipper of that time bought the estate in 1865 and set about building new cellars and modernized the Chateau thereby establishing the reputation of the luxury wine around the world. The family went on to own the Chateau for more than one hundred years until it was bought by Tesseron. In 1989 the Chateau saw the recruitment of Jean Michel Comme, an engineer oenologist of the very best and in this year the first green harvest was seen. Five years later Tesserons father gave him carte blanche to make his first vintage and two years later restoration of the oak vat room took place and saw the introduction of smaller new vats. An area was also built specifically for keeping stock that was already bottled. In 1999 a new double luxury reception room for the vintage was planned for the first floor and the name of the Chateau changed from Chateau Les Hauts de Pontet to Chateau Pontet-Canet.

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2011, Exceeding Ltd. All rights reserved. You may not reproduce or distribute any material without the prior written permission of Exceeding Ltd. Chateau Pontet Canet, A Little Bit OfÂŠ Luxury About Us | Philanthropy | Awards | Support | Advertise | Privacy Policy | Terms Of Use | All trademarks belong to their respective owners. From The Vineyards

Editorial | Image Courtesy Of Chateau Pontet Canet

In 2001 it was decided that pumps would no longer be used to fill the fermenters and the Chateau returned to the old 19th century system of working by gravity. Another change was made in 2002 when the use of pesticides in the vineyards ceased and a year later a purification station was built. 2005 saw the installation of 32 concrete vats with a capacity of 80hl for the reception of the harvest, these vats were gravity filled only. In 2005 the daughter of Gerard Tesseron, Melanie, joined the Pontet Canet team and become a breath of fresh air to the Chateau with her excellent communication skills. The first harvest using only biodynamic practices throughout the whole of the 81 hectares on the property was also seen in 2005. In 2007 thanks to her excellent passion for wine Melanie reached the top grade in the DUAD. Melanie wanted to continue developing here knowledge of wine and joined the ENITAs wine property management masters 2 in Bordeaux where she graduated successfully in 2009.

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·北京华夏酒报传媒有限公司..

·法国卡斯特兄弟股份有限公..

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迪狮龙家族狮龙家族为轩家族为轩尼为轩尼诗

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·《华夏酒报》合订本、葡萄..

·华夏酒报诚征区域广告发行..

人们通常所谓的香槟产区没有丝毫关系，在干邑产区中，它们是最好的产区。

·《华夏酒报》关于招聘特约..

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人头马顶级干邑的原酒供应

·《华夏酒报》关于招聘特约.. 国际酒业

Abel Tesseron于1905年创建了自己的干邑公司，产区被分成了两块，一块坐落在大香槟区，另一块坐落在小香槟区。为了在12世纪地下室里保存这些被他称之为“生命之水”的宝藏，他甚至起草

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之外，还因为其优良的品质保证，被干邑商人抢购，去完成他们的产品。今天，由于持续不断增加

·广州家乐福举办2010春季葡..

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的需求，公司销售的更多干邑产品冠以Tesseron的名字，也就是我们所说的“迪狮龙”。 ALFRED

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TESSERON是秉承TESSERON传统的第三代传人， ALFRED TESSERON在法国长大，从他的父

·家乐福春季红酒节八折优惠..

·新西兰马尔堡：霞多丽、雷..

后，很快成为了一名优秀的分销商，随后回到法国，成功经营法国波尔多菩依乐村（Paulliac）名庄

·2009年意大利葡萄酒对华出..

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宝德加纳（Pontet-Canet）成为美度区（Medoc）的优秀名庄，随后继承家业。在迪狮龙范围内生产

·“酱门经典”甘肃上市

·风情万种的卢瓦尔河谷产区..

的干邑都会特别标明“lots”，这是很少使用的一个术语，正如Alfred Tesseron解释说的：“这些‘lots’，白兰地就是从馏出的酒精地就是从葡萄酒中蒸馏葡萄酒中蒸

·禾富玛莎庄园桂林举行品鉴..

·全球最美的四个葡萄酒产区..

实际上采自我们甄选的迪狮龙地区出产的葡萄，然后混合，或者说是‘结合’（ Marriages），以带给

买2支..

·Lodi葡萄酒厂进驻中国市场..

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亲Guy Tesseron得到遗传，他天生就是创造伟大、优雅干邑的造物者，在去美国寻求事业发展之

人们更多的香味，结构和复杂性。”

市场

·法国政府支持大学餐厅举办..

了一个长期的法规来约束家人。这些罕见的珍宝，除了在行家之间的小圈子久负盛名，被不断争夺

·《华夏酒报》获“金长城传..

·夜市“回暖”金星啤酒战郑..

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·最适合中国人的百瓶波尔多..

白兰地即从葡萄酒中蒸馏出的酒精，在全世界范围内都有生产，而最为著名的产区来自于法国

市场 ·白酒价格变动引猜测北京大.. ·广州家乐福举办2010春季葡.. ·杭州万象城开业优惠

两个产地，即干邑（Cognac）和雅马邑（Armagnac）。

白兰地的生地--

买2支..

·Lodi葡萄酒厂进驻中国市场..

虽然在现行的规定下无法用“年份”这个代号来表达干邑的品质好坏，但是如果迪狮龙干邑打上

众所周知，汽酒是一种带有气泡的葡萄酒，最为著名的产区是法国的香槟地区，法律规定只有 “lots”的字样，就可以说明这是采用最好的年份，均衡的陈年后混合而成的非常佳酿。

·家乐福春季红酒节八折优惠..

生产在香槟地区的气泡酒才能够冠以“香槟”之称；与香槟类似的是所谓的“干邑”和“雅玛邑”，只有分

·2009年意大利葡萄酒对华出..

别生产于这两个区域，并且严格按照地区的法律规定所生产出的白兰地才能够冠以这两个名称。目前，迪狮龙干邑是世界上唯一一款被酒评家Robert Parker评为100分的干邑品牌，在品牌创建

·“酱门经典”甘肃上市

之前，迪狮龙家族是轩尼诗（Hennessy）、人头马（Remy Martin）等顶级干邑品牌的原酒from:中

酒师对该酒赞誉有加。干邑产区紧靠著名红葡萄酒故乡波尔多的北部，由于靠近海洋和河流，水运非常方便，当时在

酒类信息

国葡萄酒信息网供应商，家族拥有干邑区最顶级的葡萄园，旗下所有产品均为XO等级，同时拥有

这个产区所酿造出的葡萄酒，由于酸度太高而质量不太令人满意，可当时法国对于酒水的税款按照

·禾富玛莎庄园桂林举行品鉴..

·意大利FONTALPINO Chianti.. 干邑区最古老的地下酒窖，历史可追溯到11世纪，更为重要的是，迪狮龙是干邑区最后一批运用濒 4.迪狮龙53完美XO干邑白兰地Cognac Tesseron Lot No.53 XO PERFECTION 白兰地就是从体积来计算，这对于利润本来就不高的干邑地区来说，明显就是一个赔本的生意，在这样的情况地就是从葡萄酒中蒸馏葡萄酒中蒸馏出的酒精

·夜市“回暖”金星啤酒战郑..

·中华人民共和国审计法实施.. 临灭绝的贵族葡萄品种酿酒的酒庄，这在干邑产区是非常少见的。下，有人开始将葡萄酒进行蒸馏和浓缩来降低税款，等用橡木桶运送到目的地后再进行勾兑，进行 ·最适合中国人的百瓶波尔多.. ·中华人民共和国审计法实施.. 以53年产的白兰地，混合了50年代的酒液而成，产自大香槟区的精华酒液，被两代传人孕育完贩卖。 ·中国人不太会吃年夜饭专家.. 白兰地即从葡萄酒中蒸馏出的酒精，在全世界范围内都有生产，而最为著名的产区来自于法国生产一瓶干邑需要十瓶干邑需要十瓶葡萄酒成，是一款被权威酒评家评为98分的干邑。 ·国务院关于设立国务院食品..

后来的一系列战争迫使从业者不得不暂停这项业务，所有蒸馏出的酒液只好先保存在橡木桶两个产地，即干邑（Cognac）和雅马邑（Armagnac）。

·商务部反垄断局关于《经营.. 干邑地区的生产季节开始于十一月，通常情况下一直会持续到来年的三月，必须经过两次蒸中，战争结束后，酒商们迫不及待地重新开始葡萄酒的贩卖业务，在拿出蒸馏的酒液时，他们发 5.迪狮龙29至尊XO干邑白兰地Cognac Tesseron Lot No 29 XO ECEPTION ·商务部公布"经营者集中审查..

现，在经过长时间橡木桶储藏后的葡萄酒蒸馏液口感变得非常柔和，拥有美好的橡木桶香气和葡萄馏，而且采用铜制的夏伦特蒸馏器（Copper Charentais Pot Still）进行蒸馏，蒸馏器由传统的炭火

众所周知，汽酒是一种带有气泡的葡萄酒，最为著名的产区是法国的香槟地区，法律规定只有酒香气，色泽也因为橡木桶的储藏而显得典雅高贵，就在这样的巧合之下，诞生了日后被人们称为是世界上唯一一款被酒评家罗拔派克（Robert Parker）评为满分的干邑，采用来自大香槟区顶进行直火加热。通常生产一瓶干邑需要十瓶葡萄酒，所以将其称为“生命之水”一点也不为过。 ·中华人民共和国专利法实施.. “生命之水（eau de vie）”的白兰地。级葡萄田的硕果，以1929年蒸馏而来的白兰地为基酒，混合了1929年前后所得的几款家族最古老珍生产在香槟地区的气泡酒才能够冠以“香槟”之称；与香槟类似的是所谓的“干邑”和“雅玛邑”，只有分所蒸馏出的酒液在橡木桶中至少储存两年，但是几乎所有的生产者都会延长储存时间，在储存

稀的库藏酒液勾兑而成。

·中华人民共和国商务部令20..

·中华人民共和国专利法实施..

别生产于这两个区域，并且严格按照地区的法律规定所生产出的白兰地才能够冠以这两个名称。命运总是喜欢和人开玩笑，本来是劣质葡萄酒的产地的干邑，作为白兰地的诞生之地而一举成

过程中，酒精的含量将会降低至60%左右，同时色泽与口感都会变得柔和，并吸收橡木的香气和颜

名，为了保护该产地白兰地的声誉和质量，法国原产地控制委员会给予其AOC称号，因此任何其他 6.迪狮龙百年珍藏XO干邑白兰地Cognac Tesseron Lot No.100 XO Paradis

色。

产区生产出的白兰地都不可以冠以“干邑”之称。

干邑产区紧靠著名红葡萄酒故乡波尔多的北部，由于靠近海洋和河流，水运非常方便，当时在

酒类信息

是与迪狮龙品牌同龄的珍品，由创始人挑选出族人心目中最完美的白兰地的原液，穿越时光被在进行装运之前，还要对几个年份的酒液进行混合，同时加入蒸馏水将酒精度降低至40%左干邑由六个产区组成，分别是：大香槟区（Grande Champagne）、小香槟区（Petite 这个产区所酿造出的葡萄酒，由于酸度太高而质量不太令人满意，可当时法国对于酒水的税款按照第三代人装瓶，在迪狮龙家族只留存200瓶，非常珍贵，其香气极端复杂，蕴涵了高超的干邑调配艺右，通过添加焦糖改变酒液的色泽。每一个干邑生产者都有一位经验丰富的首席技术顾问，在每年 Champagne）、伯德里（Borderies）、芳布瓦（Fin Bois）、邦布瓦（Bons Bois）和布瓦公社 ·意大利FONTALPINO Chianti.. 术。体积来计算，这对于利润本来就不高的干邑地区来说，明显就是一个赔本的生意，在这样的情况的调配中，他们扮演着至关重要的角色，由于各个年份的气候特点不同，所采用的原料之间有很大（Bois Ordinaires/Bois Communs）。值得注意的是所谓的大香槟区和小香槟区这两个地区，它们与

的差异，因此酿造和蒸馏出的产品也不尽相同，为了保持自己品牌口感和特点的一致性，技术顾问下，有人开始将葡萄酒进行蒸馏和浓缩来降低税款，等用橡木桶运送到目的地后再进行勾兑，进行 7.迪狮龙传世典藏XO干邑白兰地Cognac Tesseron Extreme XO 需要做大量繁重的工作，来确定各个年份的酒液在最终产品中所占有的比例。

贩卖。

在干邑地区，法规管理部门对干邑最初六年储藏期限有严格的规定，但是绝大多数厂商的储藏时间要长于所规定的年限。

·中华人民共和国审计法实施.. ·中华人民共和国审计法实施..

·中国人不太会吃年夜饭专家.. 由濒临灭绝的贵族葡萄品种酿造而成，有着几欲失传的味道，由创始人亲自挑选出88款家族最优珍藏勾兑而成，陈年的地窖源自11世纪的修道院，用于培养干邑的橡木桶也有几百年历史。 ·国务院关于设立国务院食品..

后来的一系列战争迫使从业者不得不暂停这项业务，所有蒸馏出的酒液只好先保存在橡木桶

http://www.cnwinenews.com/html/201004/26/20100426091956.htm

29/04/2010

中，战争结束后，酒商们迫不及待地重新开始葡萄酒的贩卖业务，在拿出蒸馏的酒液时，他们发

以下是常在酒标以下是常在酒标中出现中出现的陈年标志：

来源：北京青年报 ·商务部反垄断局关于《经营..

·商务部公布"经营者集中审查.. ■未经许可，《华夏酒报》所刊作品一律不得转载。想知道更多新闻，请点击中国酒业新闻网。现，在经过长时间橡木桶储藏后的葡萄酒蒸馏液口感变得非常柔和，拥有美好的橡木桶香气和葡萄

***或VS：经过2年的陈酿，即Compte 2；酒香气，色泽也因为橡木桶的储藏而显得典雅高贵，就在这样的巧合之下，诞生了日后被人们称为复制本网址推荐给QQ/MSN好友分享！

“生命之水（eau de vie）”的白兰地。 VSOP：经过4年的陈酿，即Compte 4； XO：经过6年的陈酿，即Compte 6

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·中华人民共和国商务部令20..

...

·中华人民共和国专利法实施.. ·中华人民共和国专利法实施..

命运总是喜欢和人开玩笑，本来是劣质葡萄酒的产地的干邑，作为白兰地的诞生之地而一举成您要为您所发的言论的后果负责，故请各位遵纪守法并注意语言文明。

名，为了保护该产地白兰地的声誉和质量，法国原产地控制委员会给予其AOC称号，因此任何其他

1.迪狮龙90卓越XO干邑白兰地Cognac Tesseron Lot No.90 XO SELECTION

产区生产出的白兰地都不可以冠以“干邑”之称。

年龄至少为10岁，由90年代的酒液混合调配而成，由来自于三个优质产区的葡萄混酿，是初尝干邑的人士的最佳选择，风格亲切活泼。

留言：

干邑由六个产区组成，分别是：大香槟区（Grande Champagne）、小香槟区（Petite

Champagne）、伯德里（Borderies）、芳布瓦（Fin 2.迪狮龙76经典XO干邑白兰地Cognac Tesseron Lot No.76 XO TRADITION

Bois）、邦布瓦（Bons Bois）和布瓦公社验证码：

（Bois Ordinaires/Bois Communs）。值得注意的是所谓的大香槟区和小香槟区这两个地区，它们与

以76年产的白兰地，混合了70年代的酒液而成，由单一的白玉柠（Ugni Blanc）葡萄酿造，是

发表

权威杂志《葡萄酒爱好者》极力推荐的酒品。

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