Canadian Apparel Magazine Sept. - Oct. 2008

VOL. 32, NO. 5

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2008

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canadianapparel magazine 504-124 O’Connor St. Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5M9 Tel: (613) 231-3220 Fax: (613)231-2305 www.apparel.ca

Publisher Bob Kirke Tel: (613) 231-3220 ext. 224 Fax: (613) 231-2305 email: bkirke@apparel.ca

Managing Editor

18 contents

Marsha Ross 801-555 Chabanel St. West Montreal, Quebec H2N 2H8, Canada Tel: (514) 382-4243 / (888) 382-4243 Fax: (514) 382-4612 email: editor@apparel.ca

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September-OctOber 2008 VOLUme 32, NO. 5

General Inquiries Circulation/ Subscriptions Michèle Bédard Tel: (613) 231-3220 ext. 300 Fax: (613)231-2305 email: magazine@apparel.ca

Advertising Inquiries Patrick Thomas Tel: (514) 383-0916 email: sales@apparel.ca

Published by the Canadian Apparel Federation Elliot Lifson, President

6 Industry news

Companies are on the move, selling online, in new markets or moving downmarket. And a new credit group is in the works specifically for intimate apparel..

7 Retail update

Some soar, others sink. Selling online and branding “cute.”

8 Product standards

We’re all for full disclosure and vigilance when it comes to health and safety, but some regulations just don’t make sense. Find out what’s got the industry in a tizzy!

Product design & development 10 12

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CAD/CAM LISTINGS COLOR Color approval roles and tools: Chris Hipps of Datacolor completes a trilogy on color.

canadianapparel

Subscription information

14 Profile: Crux Design

Some designers create fashion for the catwalk, and some find inspiration in military cold chambers or airport snow removal barns.

Meet Lisa Cook McGill, the go-to person for high tech safety gear.

Textiles 15

Elephant dung and soybased inks: some notes on sustainability and techno textiles.

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Premier Vision Preview NY Textile trends from WGSN

19 Trade

12

Gerry Horn says opportunities for duty savings are there for the taking.

20 Consumer Insights

A new publication provides the ammunition you need to home in on your target customer more effectively.

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21 Directory of advertisers 21 Tradeshow update 22 Upcoming events

ISSN-1484-3684. Published six times annually. Free subscription to members of the Canadian Apparel Federation (CAF).

Subscription rates for nonmembers: New Brunswick, Nova Scotia and Newfoundland $28.75 per year. All other Canadian addresses - $26.75.

Canadian prices include GST/ HST. U.S. Subscribers $35.00.

International subscribers $45.00 payable to the Canadian Apparel Federation by money order, bank draft, Visa or MasterCard.

Allow 8 weeks for start of delivery. Single copies - $5.00 plus GST/HST. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part, by any means (including electronic, mechanical or photographic) without the prior written consent of the publisher.

Mailed at C.P.A. St-Laurent, Quebec. Canadian Publications Mail Product Sales Agreement No. 40023636. G.S.T. #135623478. Send address changes to: Canadian Apparel Federation, 504-124 O’Connor St., Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5M9 or magazine@apparel.ca.

Editor’s note

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Much ado about ‌. well, labels

(AVE YOU CREATED A NEW PRODUCT IMPROVED YOUR PROCESSES MODIl ED EXISTING MACHINERY OR INCURRED COSTS IN ATTEMPTS TO DEVELOP OR IMPROVE PRODUCTS

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4AX REFUNDS ARE AVAILABLE !SK US

hat is all the fuss about?

Why does a small change to a provincial regulation merit two pages in this issue?

Partly it’s about vulnerability. Partly about the ability of an independent agency to arbitrarily impose hardship on a wide range of companies, with no apparent benefit to anyone.

Teeger Schiller

The Ontario Standards and Safety Authority (TSSA) is a stand-alone, self-funded agency charged with overseeing the health and safety of the province’s residents. A worthy mandate.

However, in its wisdom, the TSSA decided this summer to extend the labeling requirements that exist under the Upholstered and Stuffed Articles Safety Program to ensure that consumer products like mattresses, duvets, pillows and stuffed toys contain new and clean stuffing to a wide range of apparel items.

Bras are the most whimsical of the categories affected and garments containing shoulder pads the most widespread, with laminated belts, lined gloves, and many others filling the gap between.

There was no prior consultation with the industry — or warning —and the reason for the change is unstated and difficult to fathom.

I have not heard of nor seen reference to a specific danger posed by the shoulder pads in suit jackets, bras that improve a little on nature’s bounty, or laminated vinyl belts. Nor have recalls of any of these products, on the grounds of used or unclean padding, been cited. And federal labeling laws already require disclosure of the textiles and in some cases the filling materials used in an item of clothing.

So, why create a situation in which a manufacturer of mastectomy bras with padded straps, among other therapeutic products, a company licensed and insured as a producer of medical products, is given six weeks to add an additional label to its products or be pulled off store shelves?

Or in which a lingerie maker who has carefully sourced heat transfer labeling to make its product more comfortable against the skin, has to add a relatively large, relatively scratchy mylar or tyvek label, printed in black ink only, to its wisp of stretch tulle?

What is the point?

A cynic might point out the licensing fee, which, to a self-funded agency, just happens to be the price of a new laptop computer. Or the squadrons of inspectors hired to patrol the shops, looking for stuffing in quite unlikely places. Or even the necessity to look bright eyed and bushy tailed after the embarrassment — and worse — of this summer’s explosion at an unlicensed Toronto propane plant which surely fell into the bailiwick of a standards and safety authority.

So CAF is now engaged in doing what it does best: representing Canadian apparel manufacturers and distributors in their effort to remain competitive in the global economy and seeking protection from arbitrary and unreasonable interference.

If you are affected by this regulation and would like to join a coalition to lobby the Ontario government on the issue, contact executive director Bob Kirke at (613) 231-03220 or bkirke@apparel.ca. î Ž

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ca INDUSTRY NEWS

industry news

New Equity Capital acquires Ginch Gonch

ROI to distribute Gramicci

New Equity Capital, the Montreal-based equity funding corporation founded

by Herschel Segal, founder and former CEO of Le Chateau, and Josh Ronn, former president of Domestic Converters, recently acquired Vancouver-based Ginch Gonch and moved its headquarters to Montreal.

Naomi Ronn — who launched and managed two apparel brands, Climawear and KnowMe, at Domestic Converters, where she remains president — is Ginch Gonch’s new president and CEO. Jason Sutherland, founder of the four-year-old brand, will remain as creative director. “Ginch Gonch has always been about having fun,” he said, from his new office in Montreal. “New Equity Capital and its leaders are committed to continuing Ginch Gonch’s edge while also improving on its already top-notch construction.”

Ginch Gonch unveiled its fall 2008 men’s underwear collection at Project Convention in Las Vegas and at Mode City in Paris. The company will re-launch its woman’s and children’s lines and re-issue past design favorites as part of Ginch Gonch’s expanded active wear collection.

Gramicci has signed Vancouver-based Recreation Outfitters Inc. (ROI) as Canadian distributor of its entire collection.

Organic Outfitters, an ROI division created for sustainable apparel, dovetails with Gramicci’s Greenicci collection made from organic or recycled fabrics.

ROI is an importer, manufacturer and distributor of outdoor, skiing and snowboard, and outdoor lifestyle products.

Info: GinchGonch.com

Dunning: beyond golf Dunning Sportswear, based in Markham, ON, has launched Dunning Classic, a country-club driven premium sportswear collection with silhouettes, colors and fabrics fueled by the company’s golf heritage.

The spring 2009 collection includes extra fine merino wool V-neck sweaters, cotton pique polo shirts, performance wovens, a Pima cotton zip-neck pullover, vintage varsity tops and traditional rugby polos. Bottoms include seersucker pants and tattersall shorts in a cotton/Coolmax blend.

Dunning Classic, made almost entirely in Canada, will be sold to menswear shops, major retailers and Dunning’s existing network of country club and resort accounts..

Reebok sponsors Bills

Lingerie credit group formed Canadian Apparel Credit (CAC) is in the process of establishing a group of lingerie/sleepwear/swimwear/foundation garment/daywear suppliers. The group will focus on credit issues as they relate to the retail clients of these suppliers.

The group is being established right now and is expected to begin operation in November 2008.

If you would like more information about this specialized group, please contact David Schachter at (514) 483-6223 or david@acacollect.com.

Reebok is the official apparel and headwear supplier for the eight-game Bills Toronto Series, producing an exclusive line of NFL-licensed gear featuring the Bills Toronto Series logo to be sold in Sport Chek locations across the GTA.

Télio Design Competition The Télio Design Competition, started three years ago by André Télio of Montrealbased Télio Fashion Fabrics, is going national this year.

Students enrolled at fashion design institutions across the country will have the opportunity to win one of five scholarships valued at a total of $10,000. Competition finals will take place during Montreal Fashion Week on March 12.

Participants are given pre-selected fabrics provided by Télio and are invited to submit a sketch on the theme of the four elements of nature — earth, air, fire and water — for a high end outfit for the fall 2009 season.

Twenty-five finalists will be chosen by a panel of seven members of the Canadian fashion industry.

Info: André Télio 514-271-4607.

Sears transforms the online shopping experience Sears, IBM and My Virtual Model have unveiled a first-of-its-kind 3D visual search and e-commerce capability for Sears.com that will improve and enhance a consumer’s online shopping experience. Sears is the first retailer to apply both a visual search and virtual model to an entire catalogue online.

The updated Sears site, powered by IBM WebSphere Commerce and My Virtual Model, will allow consumers to search for merchandise using images versus words, and to virtually “try on” selected items using a personalized model of themselves to ensure that the style, color, pattern and fit are right before purchasing.

The Sears site will enable shoppers to search on a specific style – such as long-sleeve tunic shirts or cropped cargo pants – and find products from the company’s catalogue of clothing, shoes and accessories using 3D images versus words. Shoppers can create countless combinations using a virtual model they can build and personalize to match their measurements – height, weight, body shape – and a headshot photo to ensure that the style, color, pattern and fit are right. The 3D angle allows users to view garments on themselves from the front, side and back, and shoppers can also email images of their looks to friends and family to help them make final purchasing decisions.

This Sears deployment represents the first collaboration between IBM’s WebSphere Commerce and MVM, a Montreal-based company providing virtual identity since 2000, with virtual change rooms and personalized virtual models that can be shared online.

Sears.com plans to go live with Visual Search in late October.

India Garment

Info: egabay@mvm.com or rubsamen@us.ibm.com

Beene in Canada Zanetti, maker of moderate and better tailored clothing, has signed a license with Geoffrey Beene to manufacture and distribute the brand’s tailored clothing in Canada.

Product will ship in late fall. Moores will have an exclusive on the clothing line for the first few seasons.

Geoffrey Beene clothing has not been distributed in Canada for some time, but the company sells dress shirts, neckwear and other licensed classifications here.

Zanetti already has a presence in Canada with distribution of its namesake label, as well as a private label business for a number of major retailers, including Hudson’s Bay. n

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retail update

R E TA I L

Calvin Klein launches e-commerce

Reitmans Canada

After years of development, Calvin Klein Inc. has expanded its web operation to include e-commerce.

Calvinklein.com will sell hundreds of products from Calvin Klein’s better-priced, white label brand, including apparel, accessories and home items.

The e-commerce site complements the chain of white label stores the company began rolling out in November. The site brings together men’s and women’s sportswear, suit separates, jeanswear, underwear, outerwear, footwear, eyewear, watches, tailored clothing, dress shirts, ties, belts and accessories specially developed for this channel.

Initially, the sales volume from e-commerce is expected to be equivalent to twice that of an average specialty store.

Reitmans Canada announced that sales for the six months ended August 2, 2008 decreased 0.9 percent to $517.8 million as compared with $522.6 million for the six months ended August 4, 2007. Comparable store sales decreased 4.7 percent in a challenging retail environment characterized by unseasonable weather conditions, reduced customer traffic and reduced consumer confidence. Operating earnings before depreciation and amortization for the period increased 9.1 percent to $103.3 million as compared with $94.7 last year.

A stronger Canadian dollar and tight inventory management positively impacted operating margins. Higher depreciation expenses due to an increased number of stores in operation and lower investment income negatively affected earnings before tax. Net earnings increased 6.7 percent to $53.8 million compared to $50.5 million.

Sales for the second quarter ended August 2, 2008 decreased 0.8 percent to $289.5 million, as compared with $291.9 for the second quarter last year. Same store sales for the comparable 13 weeks decreased 4.5 percent.

During the second quarter, the company opened 10 new stores. At August 2, 2008, there were 970 stores in operation, consisting of 377 Reitmans, 164 Smart Set, 57 RW & CO., 75 Thyme Maternity, 14 Cassis, 163 Penningtons and 120 Addition Elle. An additional 21 stores are scheduled to open this year, 20 stores will be remodeled and six stores will be closed.

The virtual sell Kohl’s Corp. launched a new line of apparel this summer, but the plaid skirts and printed Ts weren’t destined for its 957 stores but for Stardoll.com, a virtual community where kids can spend “Stardollars to buy clothes for their online characters.

Increasingly, retailers and clothing labels are reaching kids online, enticing them to try virtual versions of their goods in hopes of making actual sales later. In its first 16 days, Kohl’s Stardoll boutique logged some 2.2 million visits and sold 1.8 million items. Kohls.com lured 97,000 visitors who clicked through from the boutique site.

Also this summer, casualwear maker K-Swiss Inc. and lingerie and swimwear designer Eberjey rolled out virtual clothes on There.com. And in late July, Sears opened its first online boutique, featuring back-to-school apparel and dorm-room furniture, on Zwinky.com. Sears said the boutiques logged 750,000 visitors and sold 850,000 virtual items during their first 16 days.

American Apparel went virtual two years ago.

The sites are places to fashion digital personalities (“avatars”) that participants use to explore new styles, relationships and behaviors. Typically, these sites now offer a click through to buy the real products.

Sears, Kohl’s and J.C. Penney all say they’ve increased online ad spending this year and are targeting teens.

Details vary, but a retailer or brand typically pays a fee to have a virtual community host and develop its store and products. The brand and the website sometimes split revenue from the virtual purchases. But since virtual clothes cost virtually nothing, brands view this more as a way to test product than as a profit center.

Lululemon profits soar Lululemon Athletica Inc. reported that profits for the quarter ended August 3 were up 117.6 percent to $11.1 million from 5.1 million a year ago. Sales in the period rose 47.6 percent to $85.5 million from $57.9 million last year. Same-store sales were up 13 percent on a constant-dollar basis but 18 percent including the impact of currency fluctuation.

For the first half of the year, profits climbed 126.5 percent to $19.6 million from $8.7 million last year.

Sales in the first six months rose 59.1 percent to $162.4 million from $102 million a year ago.

“Their brand is very unique,” said Howard Tubin, director of softlines equity research at RBC Capital Markets. “It’s a relatively new brand to the U.S. If you can offer the customer something new and something different you can still perform well in the currently difficult retail environment.”

Company founder and chairman Chip Wilson said he would transfer 625,000 shares of stock to longtime employees of the company and that he does not plan on selling any shares of the company for at least three years.

Hart Stores acquires eight former SAAN outlets Hart Stores Inc., which operates mid-sized department stores in secondary and tertiary markets of eastern Canada, has agreed to purchase leases and equipment for eight SAAN retail stores. Seven are in Quebec and one is in Ontario. All the locations are scheduled to open this fall, bringing the total number of Hart stores to 89. The chain operates under the Hart, Bargain Giant and Géant des Aubaines banners.

SAAN, which had more than 350 discount department stores by the late 1990s, emerged from bankruptcy protection in 2005. This past June, the company announced it was closing its remaining 126 stores.

Mervyns files for Chapter 11 California-based department store chain Mervyns filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection on July 29, citing “the state of the economy and difficult operating environment for our industry.”

The retailer said Mervyns stores would remain open as it works through the bankruptcy process, and that it had received a commitment for a $465 million facility from a lender group led by Wachovia Capital Finance Corp.

Headquartered in Hayward, CA, Mervyns had fewer than 200 stores in 10 U.S. states in 2006, although the closing of locations in Washington and Oregon in early 2007 reduced the store count to about 170. n

Hatley is branding “cute” The Hatley story started out cute and quirky as the manufacturer’s “back-to-nature” PJs, raincoats and Ts but the three Oldland brothers from Hatley, QC have proved to be sophisticated marketers, growing the brand to include corporate stores in Canada and the U.S. and a burgeoning wholesale business in North America, Europe and Japan, with annual sales approaching $20 million.

The company currently operates eight corporate stores across Canada and in the U.S. and will open its ninth in November. That store, in the resort town of San Destin, FL, is a continuation of Hatley’s success with Intrawest, the resort development company responsible for Whistler, AB and Mont Tremblant, QC. “Wholesale, which accounts for 80 percent of our volume, is still our most important focus and will remain so for the foreseeable future,” says president Chris Oldland. “But the corporate stores brand the line.

It’s where the consumer can see all our product in one place and where we have learned how to merchandise all our categories — babies, children, tween, men, women, housewares, gifts — together.”

Hatley has taken that expertise and offered it to its retailers along with simple fixtures that identify the brand. “Before a retailer would say that our categories belong in four different departments but we show them how to merchandise it all together to sell Hatley to its full potential.”

Many of the accounts have such a long and successful history with Hatley that they are comfortable dedicating a portion of their store — from 100 square feet to, in some cases, the whole store — to the brand.

“These shops-in-shops secure the real estate for us and are a real commitment to a partnership relationship,” says Oldland.

So far, five stores are involved in a relationship “just short of a franchise.” With 75 – 80 percent of their space dedicated to the Hatley brand, these stores, most of which skipped the shop-in-shop stage, use their own name plus the Hatley label as their banner.

It’s a trend Oldland expects to pick up steam this year. “Great locations are coming available because of the economic downturn in the States,” he says. “We can never fully understand local markets but retailers have that expertise and can find the right lease at the right price. It makes for an effective partnership: they know the local market; we know how to sell our merchandise.”

It’s taken a lot of investment to develop the brand, says Oldland, who boasts a presence in such majors as Nordstrom, FAO Schwartz, Harrods, Selfridges, John Lewis, and Isitan, but brands succeed where product fails.

“You can see that resilience in big brands like Tommy Hilfiger and Polo but smaller brands like Life is Good, Fresh Produce, and April Cornell have also grown by going vertical,” says Oldland. “Brands survive the ups and downs of the market.”

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Tempest in a C cup

PRODUCT S TA N D A R D S

To protect the health and safety of ontario, the TSSA has taken aim at a wide range of apparel product, lumping bustiers and belts with mattresses and teddy bears — all requiring prominent labels stating that they contain only “new material”

D IXE E F F L A DANC E B LA CCOR H IN A WIT ARY ITR CIAL B R A NS VIN PROULATIOE R REGHAT A THE T E IN ND U Q A UNI ORLD OTECT W H PR RS IC ME WH ONSU NON T C INS NT AGA XISTE THEIR E TO KS TH RIS HEAL

BE O D TT NO MOVE RE NDER OF U LTY A W PENHE LA T

M

anufacturers and retailers of a wide range of apparel products are scrambling to understand regulations introduced in Ontario this year that would require substantial changes to the labeling of garments for the Canadian market.

According to recent changes, a range of products including many foundation garments and garments containing shoulder pads will have to be labeled as “upholstered and stuffed articles” and the manufacturer of the products must be “licensed” to market its products in Ontario, and possibly in other provinces.

The Upholstered and Stuffed Articles Regulations have historically been applied to mattresses, comforters and a small number of apparel products with loose filling or stuffing. The regulations have been in place for decades, although many apparel companies are unaware of

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their existence. Three provinces maintain such regulations: Ontario, Quebec and Manitoba. Their purpose is to protect public health – specifically by preventing the use of soiled or unsanitary materials in consumer products.

In July, the Ontario agency that enforces the rules, the Technical Standards and Safety Authority (TSSA), changed its regulations to require that manufacturers of garments containing shoulder pads be required to adhere to the Regulation and adopt the appropriate licensing and labeling procedures. The changes adopted by the Ontario government took legal effect immediately.

Swift action by the Canadian Apparel Federation was able to secure a deferral in the enforcement of these provisions. However the change has only been deferred – what was to take effect in July 2008 will take effect in July 2009.

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This action to regulate garments with shoulder pads came on top of a revised interpretation of the regulations contained in a TSSA Directors Bulletin, issued in January of this year, which concluded that “padded undergarments” fell under the regulations. In the case of these items, the enforcement of the provisions was to take effect January 1, 2009, giving the trade some time to adjust.

Many in the industry are concerned with how these regulations are formulated and amended and how what appear to be minor changes can have substantial impact on labeling and disclosure requirements for apparel producers. Consultations have been non-existent and companies take issue with the entire basis of the regulations.

The abrupt change in the treatment of these garments and the expansion of the products the regulations cover has reinforced concerns about how the they are being interpreted and enforced.

What has happened during 2008 is that several major categories have been singled out for inclusion in these regulations, without any apparent justification and certainly no apparent assessment of risk to the general public.

When industry members were advised of the changes, they reacted with considerable dismay: many people could not understand how, without any prior consultation, a single agency in one province could change the labeling requirements that apply to a large share of all garments sold in Canada.

What has come to light is that these regulations are virtually unique in terms of their application to apparel. In the United States a broad range of states maintains labeling and licensing requirements for the manufacturers of mattresses and similar articles. But in Canada we have a situation where three provinces have sweeping licensing requirements for manufacture of these products.

“What seems to be lacking is a bit of common sense,” said CAF executive director Bob Kirke.

“Most people can tell the difference between a mattress and bra, but apparently we have lost that ability recently.

“Someone needs to step back for a moment and recognize that these products pose no specific safety issues, and in no way do they call for such licensing and labeling – on top of the federal labeling requirements we already follow.”

Some companies are more blunt, calling it a money grab on the part of government agencies.

For many years there has been concern about these programs. In essence, they represent an attempt to protect public safety by ensuring that

P r o d u c t S ta n d a r d s

new materials are included in furniture and other consumer articles. While no one questions the need to maintain public safety in general there remains a question whether there is any need to police these types of articles. Health Canada monitors product standards for all consumer products and there is no particular reason apparent to the trade why shoulder pads or padded bras should pose a greater risk or should be treated differently than all other consumer products.

Other industry experts have pointed out that these regulations, in large part, have no specific standards associated with them. In most product standard regulations, one would expect to see a clear risk identified, some assessment of the likelihood that the risk would occur and would have negative consequences for the consumer, and clear standards in terms of how to determine whether the risk is present. If one were to look at the regulations in any of the three provinces one would find very little reference to clear standards.

The logistics of managing the registration of different suppliers and the production of correct labels can be significant, especially where products (and separate components) are sourced from numerous facilities in a number of different countries.

This has been made more challenging by the fact that, over a period of months, Manitoba and Quebec have taken conflicting positions concerning their regulatory requirements. Earlier in the year, Manitoba and Quebec were said to be following Ontario’s lead on these new areas of enforcement, however that is less clear at present.

A number of firms have expressed concerns regarding the apparent conflict between federal labeling requirements and the provincial program. For example, many leading suppliers of foundation garments have made significant efforts in recent years to minimize or eliminate sewn-in fibre content and care labels. Intimate apparel companies have also been leaders in developing alternative labeling solutions including the printing of required information on the fabric of the garment.

These procedures allow them to meet federal labeling requirements and still deliver a product to the consumer free of a separate sewn-in label.

The prescribed label formats contained within the Upholstered and Stuffed Articles Regulations in Ontario would require a separate label to be affixed to the garment.

According to CAF, without a change in the regulations, suppliers would be required to add an additional label to their garments that would provide no meaningful information that is not already available to the consumer.

Penalties In addition, there is now widespread concern among apparel suppliers regarding supply chain complications likely to occur if the regulations are enforced as the TSSA has indicated. It is likely that many goods already in the supply chain without the correct labeling will be on the shelves on or after January 1, 2009. Many companies have work in process plus months of inventory on hand and retailers will have merchandise in inventory that will remain in place past the January 1 deadline.

Without a deferral, we are concerned that these

ca

What’s the problem?

On January 1, 2008, while most citizens were innocently sleeping off the effects of the night before, the very clothing they wore became a danger to health and public safety.

On that date, the Technical Standards and Safety Authority of Ontario (TSSA) posted a Director’s Bulletin on its website unexpectedly decreeing that “numerous styles and types of undergarments that contain filling materials, stuffing, or cushioning meant to be enclosed by a covering,” are henceforth to be considered an upholstered or stuffed article with regard to labeling requirements — in the same category as mattresses, pillows and teddy bears.

The regulation stated that such garments: • Shall have affixed to it a label in accordance with the regulation • Manufacturers of padded undergarments must be licensed for the purpose of the Upholstered and Stuffed Articles Regulation by the TSSA • No person shall offer for sale padded undergarments which do not bear such a label.

The undergarments and their suppliers were to be in full compliance by January 1, 2009.

A second Director’s Bulletin, issued on August 1, 2008 extended the labeling and licensing requirements to shoulder pads, previously exempt.

The deadline for compliance was extended to August 1, 2009.

Who does this affect?

What do I have to do?

The edicts are addressed to “Importers, Distributors, Manufacturers and Retailers” so that means many of YOU.

Under the regulations, in order to sell a padded garment in Ontario, you must: • Affix a 2.5 cm by 7 cm label, similar to those required on stuffed toys, that states the item is filled with “new material only.”

• Register with the safety authority and pay an annual fee: $400 for manufacturers.

Literally millions of garments currently on sale will be non-compliant with Ontario law and can be removed from store shelves should an inspector order such action.

Labels must:

situations will generate unreasonable compliance issues for suppliers and retailers alike, given that companies do not have a clear understanding of how such goods will be treated by the TSSA. In addition to the novel interpretation of the regulations to include such articles, affected companies have raised concerns about the manner in which these changes came to light. A bulletin posted on the TSSA website on January 1, 2008 without any prior notice was apparently the full extent of the communications effort. Similarly, the changes to requirements for garments containing shoulder pads was also completed entirely without consultation with the industry and was posted on the TSSA website after the date of implementation.

According to the Canadian Apparel Federation, some companies that are not CAF members are only learning about the requirements in September of this year. This makes it virtually impossible for such firms to bring their complex operations into compliance for January 1, 2009.

These measures highlight how simple changes in regulations can have profound impact on apparel and sourcing. While the Canadian Apparel Federation continues to fight the provisions, companies need to understand precisely how they would manage these requirements if they remain in force. n

• Be securely placed in a conspicuous location.

• Be made of a white durable fabric or synthetic material such as tyvek or mylar and printed in black ink.

Filling materials must be declared by generic name including a list of the most frequently used content declarations and schedule of fillings materials. If multiple fillings are used, the label must disclose filling materials in order of predominance, by volume.

The Upholstered and Stuffed Articles Program offers a Label Approval Service, to help reduce non-compliance issues.

The service includes a detailed review and editing with recommended changes to the sample label. At the end you will receive an approved letter with a copy of the finalized approval label format.

Just send a sample label with payment of $73.50.

Companies wanting to join the CAF’s efforts to amend these regulations should contact Bob Kirke at bkirke@apparel.ca or (613) 231-3220 ext. 224.

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CAD / CA M S u r v e y

CGS Inc. (Computer Generated Solutions Inc.) Datacolor

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eWarna

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Freeborders Inc.

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GCL Distribution Gerber Technology, Inc. Jesta I.S. Inc. Jonar Systems Inc. Lawson

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Lectra Canada Inc.

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Momentis Systems Inc.

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Ned Graphics

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OLOtech Inc. OptiTex USA Pointcarre Textile Software Tangerine Software Inc. Tukatech Inc. VisImage Systems Inc.

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Visual 2000 International Yunique Solutions Inc.

AGE Technologies Inc.

80 Queen, Suite 502 Montréal, QC, CA, H3C 2N5 Tel.: (514) 339-1333 Fax: (514) 339-5445 Email: salesinfo@agetechnologies.com Web site: www.clicdesign.com Software description Clicdesign Suite is the designer’s dream toolkit for texile design in Adobe Photoshop. It combines essential tools for producing professional textile design.

Blue Fox NedGraphics

104 W, 40th Street, 12th Floor New York, NY, US, 10018 Tel.: (212) 921-2727 Fax: (212) 768-4488 Web site: www.nedgraphics.com Software description NedGraphics develops & manufactures dedicated software and services for textile & apparel design, color matching and calibration, color separation, fabric simulation, 3D presentation, and production of textiles.

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CGS Inc. (Computer Generated Solutions Inc.)

3 World Financial Center, 200 Vesey Street, 27th Floor New York, NY, US, 10281-1017 Tel.: U.S. (212) 408-3800 Canada (450) 508-3800 Fax: (212) 977-7474 Email: info@cgsinc.com Web site: www.cgsinc.com Software description BlueCherry by CGS, the industrys most comprehensive end-to-end, integrated solution offers enterprise resource planning (ERP), supply chain management (SCM), product lifecycle management (PLM) and CRM specifically designed to meet the needs of the apparel, accessories and footwear industries. The most established and successful apparel brands in the industry have chosen BlueCherry by CGS to deliver dramatic and rapid return on investment, streamline business processes, improve operating performance and accelerate sales. For more than 24 years, Computer Generated Solutions, Inc. has enabled global organizations to build competitive advantages by delivering cross-industry expertise and technology solutions on multiple platforms. CGS offers end-to-end business solutions such as ERP, CRM, PLM, WMS, Portal, eCommerce, as well as business services including application development

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Software as a Service

Application Service Provider

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Web enabled

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Electronic cutting

Texture mapping

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Blue Fox NedGraphics

Marker marking

Woven textile design

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AGE Technologies Inc.

Pattern making / grading

Knit textile design

survey

Digital Printing

CAD/CAM

3-D simulation

2008

Product lifecycle management (PLM)

eWarna

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and integration, learning, training, staffing, help desk and global sourcing solutions. Established in 1984 and headquartered in NYC, CGS maintains a worldwide presence with 18 offices in North America, Europe and Asia. Additional Modules - Integrated With BlueCherry by CGS Enterprise Suite ro as a stand alone application Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) Collaborative Supply Chain Management Advanced Warehouse, Virtual Showroom, EDI, Enterprise Intelligence.

Datacolor

5 Princess Road Lawrenceville, NJ, US, 8648 Tel.: (609) 924-2189 Fax: (609) 895-7414 Email: marketing@datacolor.com Web site: www.datacolor.com Software description Products in Datacolors suite of Color Lifecycle Management™ products include ENVISION™ for on-screen color and texture visualization, TRACK™ for digital color communication, TOOLS™ for color assessment and color quality control and MATCH TEXTILE “ for superior color matching in the textile lab. The suite of products helps apparel companies reduce color approval cycle times and costs while improving quality.

B-15-8, Megan Avenue II, No: 12 Jalan Yap Kwan Seng Kuala Lumpur, OO, MY, 50450 Tel.: 60 3 21618333 USA 201 399-2268 Fax: 60 3 21622993 Email: info@ewarna.com Web site: www.ewarna.com Software description Developed for the textile and apparel industries, XMatch is a full-featured online color management/workflow application that allows users to communicate digitized color standards, receive/ submit color submissions (lab or bulk dips) through industry standard file formats, set approval tolerances and keep detailed records of all color approvals. XMatch is proven in the complex textile color supply chain network, from design to color approval, addressing to the various roles within the supply chain.

Freeborders Inc.

6112 - 1751 Richardson Montréal, QC, CA, H3K 1G6 Tel.: (514) 931-2616; Fax: (514) 931-1106 Email: info@freeborders.com Web site: www.freeborders.com Software description Product Data Management Solutions, Vendor Collaboration Solutions, Fabric Management Solutions, Technical Design Software and Line Optimization Planning Solutions.

GCL Distribution

1400 ave du Fort, suite 850 Montreal, QC, CA, H3H 2T1 Tel.: (514) 939-4430; Fax: (514) 937-0517 Email: inform@gcldistribution.com Web site: www.gcldistribution.com Software description Today PAD remains to be a leading supplier of world-class CAD/CAM solutions, dedicated to the apparel, textile and leather industries. From virtual design to integrated production, PAD System and its partners provide professional and comprehensive service, support and training to thousands of satisfied customers worldwide, ranging from freelancers to large-scale manufacturers.

PAD System’s mission is to develop and support high-tech CAD/CAM solutions that are simple, efficient and flexible to cater for the needs of the clothing, textile, and leather industries.

Gerber Technology, Inc.

24 Industrial Park Rd. W., P.O. Box 769 Tolland, CT, US 06084-3779 Tel.: (860) 871-8082; Fax: (860) 871-3779 Email: info@gerbertechnology.com Web site: www.gerbertechnology.com CANADA: Tel.: (416) 433-6675; Fax: (416) 650-1147 Email: alan.seymour@gerbertechnology.com Web site: www.gerbertechnology.com Montreal: Tel.: (514) 325-3635; Fax: (514) 382-2561 Email: alan.seymour@gerbertechnology.com Distributor for Montreal: Rubenstein Bros. Co. Inc. 865 Hodge Montreal, QC, CA H4N 2B1 Tel: (514) 747-2929; Fax: (514) 747-6677 Contact: Jeremy Becker Email: jeremy.becker@rubenstein.ca Web site: www.rubenstein.ca Software description Gerber Technology develops and manufactures the worlds leading brands of integrated software and hardware automation systems for

CAD / CA M S u r v e y

manufacturers and retailers in the sewn products and flexible materials industries. These systems automate and significantly improve the efficiency of information management, product design and development, pre-production, and production processes. Gerbers AccuMarkTM software is the standard worldwide for pattern design, grading and marker making with over 38,000 seats installed across multiple industries. AccuNest PE is Gerbers software for automatically generating markers, providing increased efficiency and speed to save time and material costs. AccuMark® V-Stitcher 3D garment design and visualization software enables users to create a virtual sample from a 2D pattern over a 3D body image. Gerbers WebPDMTM product development management software has been adopted by more than 1,000 customers. Gerbers PLM solution, Fashion Lifecycle ManagementTM, is designed to meet the specific needs of the fashion industry, combining an enterprise-wide collaborative workflow engine with WebPDM, the most feature-rich PDM.

Jesta I.S. Inc.

300 - 8, Place du Commerce Verdun, QC, CA, H3E 1N3 Tel.: (514) 925-5100; Fax: (514) 925-5135 Email: info@jestais.com Web site: www.jestais.com Software description Jesta I.S. Inc., the leading supplier of business solutions for retailers, manufacturers, importers and distributors in the apparel, footwear and softgoods industry. Global Sourcing and Demand to dynamic Merchandising and Supply Chain collaboration, Jesta delivers the infrastructure for your core operations. From initial project planning, we work with you to fully leverage the power of technology to maximize your profitability.

The Vision solution suite allows you to focus on providing value for your customers. Grow your business today. Soluttions to manage your supply chain from concept to clothesline.

Jonar Systems Inc.

5645 Chemin St-Francois Ville St Laurent, QC, CA, H4S 1W6 Tel.: (514) 335-5525; Fax: (514) 335-5529 Email: jonar@jonar.com Web site: www.jonar.com Software description Jonar Systems Inc. (JSI) offers a fully-integrated, Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP) package to manage your entire business. The application programs are tailored to vertical markets in the Manufacturing, Importing and Distribution sectors of the Apparel and Hardgoods industries.. We have developed a feature-rich product encompassing all areas of the business.

Our main goal at JSI is to deliver cost-effective solutions in an easy to use manner, while at the same time providing timely information so that you, the owner/managers can effectively run your organization. Since its inception in 1987, JSI has developed its reputation and success based on the attitude it takes towards its customers. JSI does not seek to make a client fit the application software, but rather tries to find the best fit between the customer and the information system and then tailors the package to be as perfect a fit as possible. Our professionals, with many years of experience and knowledge in a variety of industries, maintain our corporate philosophy, its our business to make yours better.

Lawson

380 St. Peter Street St. Paul, MN, US, 55102 Tel.: (651) 767-7000; Fax: (651) 767-7141 Email: infous@lawson.com Web site: www.lawson.com

Software description Lawson is a global ERP provider offering applications built from the ground up specifically for the fashion industry. Lawson M3 for Fashion scales with an organization, allowing effective management across multiple locations in multiple countries with multiple supply and delivery channels. Lawson M3 for Fashion provides greater supply chain visibility, coupled with superior planning applications and integration of its M3 applications, helping you reduce time-to-market, reduce cost, improve delivery accuracy and increase responsiveness. Lawson provides its fashion industry-specific expertise and proven capabilities with greater overall value and lower total cost of ownership (TCO).

Lectra Canada Inc.

900 110 Cremazie West Montréal, QC, CA, H2P 1B9 Tel.: (514) 383-4613 Fax: (514) 383-5270 Email: infoscanada@lectra.com Web site: www.lectra.com Software description Lectra is the world leader in software. Lectras software spans the entire product cycle, from design to manufacturing. They allow users to design fabrics and models on-screen; create realistic simulations of their products lines in 3D; develop and industrialize products; plan and manage their development cycles from start to finish and establish a collaborative environment embracing everyone involved in managing collections (PLM), using the advantages of a powerful graphics database.

Momentis Systems Inc. #2300 - 75 Queen Street Montreal, QC, CA, H3C 2N6 Tel.: (514) 939-2306 Fax: (514) 939-2302 Email: info@momentis.com Web site: www.momentis.com

Software description With over 30 years of industry experience, Momentis provides world-class software solutions to fashion and apparel wholesalers, importers, manufacturers, and self-sourcing retailers.

The Momentis Fashion System™ (MFS) is a web-based application built using the latest Microsoft® technologies, making them easy to deploy across an organization, across the country or around the world. More than 150 companies across North America and Europe are using Momentis applications to compete effectively in the global market. In fact, many clients have been with us since the beginning and have upgraded as their businesses expanded. Our end-to-end solutions bring together our knowledge of the apparel industry and the capabilities of todays technology.

Ned Graphics

104 W. 40th St., 12th Floor New York, NY, US, 10018 Tel.: (212) 921-2727 Fax: (212) 768-4488 Email: gtaylor@nedgraphics.com Web site: www.nedgraphics.com Software description NedGraphics is a global leader in CAD/CAM software for the Textile & Apparel industry. With over 25 years of experience in developing, marketing and supporting textile and fashion CAD/CAM software for thousands of companies around the world, the company has become a reliable partner for every segment of the textile industry

OLOtech Inc.

Software description TUKAcad software is an easy-to-use and effective CAD solution for patternmaking, grading and marker making. TUKAplan is a full-fledged PLM/ERP solution for garment manufacturing. TUKAtrack is an RFID solution for bundle tracking, work-inprocess reporting, payroll and other reports.

Software description OLOtech PDM - CRM - MRP- ERP is for manufacturers and importers of intricate products such as garments, furniture, construction supplies and sporting goods. Our software integrates all operations from Product Development to Sales, Sourcing, Production and Accounting. Our Web based software fosters e-collaboration within your entire supply chain. It allows you to reduce your overhead by granting access to Customers, Sales Reps and Contractors. Each Password is linked to a Group which specifies what can be seen or modified.

Passwords also filter the relevant information associated with a specific Customer or Contractor.

VisImage Systems Inc.

307 - 90 Vinet Montréal, QC, CA, H3J 2C9 Tel.: (514) 399-1771 Fax: (514) 399-1771 Email: info@olotech.com Web site: www.olotech.com

OptiTex USA

325W 38th St. Suite 1107 New York, NY, US, 10018 Tel.: (212) 629-9053 Fax: (212) 629-9055 Email: optitex.usa@optitex.com Web site: www.optitex.com

Pointcarre Textile Software 1430 Broadway, Suite 306 New-York, NY, US, 10018 Tel.: (212) 398-6680 Fax: (212) 398-5628 Email: info@pointcarre.com Web site: www.pointcarre.com

Software description Pointcarre is the leading supplier of CAD/ CAM software to the apparel, textile and home furnishings industries. Our software offers design, repeats, color-ways, clenup, color reduction, knit & woven simulations, technical construction of knits, dobbies, jacquards, plaids, stripes, embroideries. We also offer 3D texture mapping and archiving software.

Tangerine Software Inc.

450 - 555 Dr. Frederik Philips Saint-Laurent, QC, CA, H4M 2X4 Tel.: (514) 748-9309 Fax: (514) 748-9619 Email: info@tangerinesoftware.com Web site: www.tangerinesoftware.com Software description System21 Aurora Style is a fully integrated suite of specialized software applications for the apparel and footwear industry. Solutions include product design, manufacturing, distribution, CRM and Finance.

5527 E. Slauson Ave Los Angeles, CA, US, 90040 Tel.: (323) 726-3836 Fax: (323) 726-3866 Email: tukateam@tukatech.com Web site: www.tukatech.com www.tukaweb.com

canadianapparel

3948 Chesswood Dr Toronto, ON, CA, M33J2W6 Tel.: (416) 398-5634 Fax: (416) 398-2690 Email: info@vis.ca Web site: www.vis.ca

Software description VisImage Systems Inc. specializes in the development of computer vision and digital image processing systems. Originating from the University of Toronto, VIS established its presence in 1996 by providing computer assisted measurement systems. We combine the modern technologies of computing, image acquisition and image processing into seamless applications. We provide cutting edge solutions (software and hardware) for your accurate measurement needs.

Visual 2000 International

Software description OptiTex Specializes in the development of innovative easy-to-operate CAD/CAM solutions for several industries such as Apparel, Accessories, Automotive, Aeronautics, Upholstery and Industrial Fabrics. Our native Windows-based software used for digitizing, pattern engineering, grading, marking, advanced automatic nesting and 3D draping are specifically designed to meet needs of todays manufacturers.

Tukatech Inc.

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200 - 8960 Ave du Parc Montréal, QC, CA, H2N 1Y8 Tel.: (514) 381-4006; Fax: (516) 224.7287 Email: sales@visual-2000.com Web site: www.visual-2000.com Software description Visual 2000 ERP Visual 2000 continues to revolutionize Enterprise Resource Planning. With Visual 2000 IIS, you receive a complete toolbox of modules specifically designed for your day to day business needs, in one complete integrated package. Plus, you can add a full range of Visual 2000 WEB Based solutions seamlessly: Visual PLM. Net™ This WEB based Product Lifecycle Management software uses leading edge technology to bring together the development team regardless of its physical locations, the team members are virtually in one location all the time. The World Wide Web. Visual SFA (Sales Force Automation): this solution designed for the web will open the Virtual door to your business partners, giving them access to current data they require to accomplish their daily tasks, greatly reducing interruptions to your in-house employees. Click-2-Buy: using a handheld scanner, salespeople enter their orders directly into the system, from bar coded samples or line lists. Visual VIBE (Data Extraction Tool): this WEB based tool will give your staff unrestricted access to their data. Extract any field and format it the way you define. Manipulate the data set and send it to Excel, Word, or PDF. Schedule alerts and let the software e-mail the person of your choice to report on exceptions. WMS (Warehouse Management Service) with scanner, allows pick and packing with actual inventory control.

Yunique Solutions Inc. 552 Seventh Ave, Floor 6 New York, NY, US, 10018 Tel.: (212) 672-0098 Email: info@yunique.com Web site: www.yunique.com

Software description Yunique Solutions Inc. is a New York-based developer of product lifecycle management (PLM) and supplier relationship management (SRM) solutions that are scalable to virtually any size retailer, brand, manufacturer, contractor or trading company. Yunique Solutions enables todays fashion-related companies to speed more on-trend merchandise to market by improving collaboration across the entire supply chain. n

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DESIGN & DEVELOPMENT

Color approval roles and tools

By Chris Hipps

I

have thoroughly enjoyed writing this trilogy on color for Canadian Apparel. I appreciate the work of the Canadian Apparel Federation and the excellent information contained in this journal.

In thinking about the final chapter to the series, I wanted to briefly re-cap the key points of the first two articles and then focus on the tools and skills that can help the Canadian apparel industry become even more competitive when it comes to color issues. Often color is taken for granted and, though it is one of the most important attributes of our products, it is overlooked as an area for huge productivity and quality improvements.

My first article appearing in the September/ October 2007 edition, focused on the principles of complying with a digital color communication program. Many retailers and apparel brands are using digital color as a way to reduce the time and cost associated with color approvals. The article gave five recommendations to better meet customer demands for color approvals. If you are involved with either setting up a digital color program or in submitting color samples digitally to a customer or even communicating with overseas manufacturers with regard to color, the article may be a good place to begin research on improving your processes.

In the March/April 2008 edition, we discussed three modern methods to manage the color approval process. We learned about an objective way to determine if colors are approvable; the methods used for tracking the status of color approvals; and the different models for administering a color approval process. Whereas the first article was focused on complying with existing

color approval programs, this article sought to give practical advice in managing those color approval processes.

So here we are in the September/October 2008 edition.

The purpose of this article is to briefly discuss several different roles associated with color approvals and provide information on the skills and tools required to become more color competitive. Becoming more color competitive means shorter lead times, on-time approvals, better quality and lower cost.

Table 1 shows important roles related to color development. In the inspiration stage, designers, merchandisers, and trend personnel seek sources of color inspiration for the next series or season of product. The goal is to find new colors (or a variation of existing colors) that will sell well the next season. Color inspiration comes in many forms. Sometimes it is from nature, sometimes from exotic places, sometimes from routine daily experiences, sometimes from trend companies, sometimes from competitive shopping. No matter where the inspiration comes from, it is what starts the entire color development process.

Product development is where the inspiration is brought together with the capability of the supply chain. At the color specifier, standards are developed, lab samples are reviewed and approved and samples are made for customer approval.

The purpose of product development is to define exactly what is to be made so that customer can decide if they want to buy. At the color supplier, the supplier must translate the color standard

Table 1

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Color Role

Function

Inspiration

Determine which colors to consider for the color palette

Product Development – Color Specifier

Translate color inspiration into color standards and obtain approval for lab samples

Product Development – Color Supplier

Create lab samples for approval

Production

Fulfill customer orders meeting color specifications and tolerances

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into the actual product that they will be supplying to the color specifier.

These samples must be created and submitted for approval to prove that the supplier can meet expectations and to have formulas ready to use in production when orders are received. In addition, the specifications are created so that when the product is made en masse, the quality may be monitored and recorded.

Table 2 lists some tools that may be of help in the color inspiration stage. In the color inspiration stage, art and creativity rule. The idea is to get the concept from the mind of the designer to the consumer with as little shift as possible. Companies spend a lot of money trying to determine what colors will be popular and help their product sell. Trend and color standards companies provide an easy to review one stop shop for color inspiration. Inspiration that occurs in the mind of a designer, on a CAD system or in nature must be captured so that it may be communicated to the rest of the supply chain. Calibration devices for the computer monitor and printer ensure as close as possible that the same color is rendered.

Making sure that the color rendered is the actual desired color requires a little more thought and management. For example, it is a fact that the light source used for viewing changes perceived color. It is for this reason that RGB cannot be used to communicate color. RGB does not take into account the light source. Some systems allow for the use of L*a*b* values. These are more useful than RGB but the user must understand that L*a*b* values are only valid for one light source.

So whenever a color specification is given using L*a*b*, it must be known if the values are for

DE S I G N & DEVE L O P M ENT

Table 2 Tools for the Color Inspiration Role Trend & Color Standard Companies CAD Programs Light Booths Digital Printers Color Calibration Devices (Printer and Monitor) Spectral Color Definitions

Table 3 Tools for Color Development Roles Color Standards Color Quality Control Software Spectrophotometer (Color Measurement) Color Matching Software Lab Dyeing and Dispensing Machines Daylight, Coolwhite or some other light source.

Said another way, the same color will have different L*a*b* values for different light sources.

A spectral color definition is used to completely define color. When possible, this definition of color should be used as early in the inspiration process as possible. Also called a “reflectance curve,” this definition is like a unique fingerprint for a color. It may be used as a specification throughout the rest of the supply chain for color matching and quality control.

Light booths are useful because the light source is standardized and may be used to properly inform others how the colors should be viewed. A color specification without the light source specification is useless. Digital printers are useful for quick proofing of colors and for presentation boards; however users must understand that a printer will have different colorants than those used for the textile materials.

An obvious skill needed for the color inspiration stage as well as the color development stage is normal color vision. Some people have a natural ability with color harmony and are able to combine colors in a way that will be pleasing to consumers. There are computer programs and services that help those who need help with this valuable skill. In the end, it is the people with these skills using the tools available to them who are the most successful.

In the color development roles, inspiration must be translated into a color standard (specification) that the supply chain may use as a target for their color matches. Part of the color specification is the target color but it is critical that the light source used for matching as well as the tolerance or acceptability range for color approvals also be included. Many color standards companies provide the spectral reflectance curve (aka “color fingerprint” or .QTX file) for their

standards. This becomes a master digital standard and ensures that the entire supply chain is shooting at the same target. Color quality control software allows people in the color development roles to define the acceptability limits for their colors. Using industry standard color scales and color difference formulas, a tolerance may be created and given to suppliers so that they may check the acceptability of their samples prior to submitting to the color specifier. Today, many companies actually e-mail their colors for approval. There are systems that also act as a virtual light booth for viewing color and texture on a calibrated monitor for color acceptability. Spectrophotometers are the measurement devices that create the spectral fingerprints for color samples. These devices are very stable, repeatable and offer a more objective assessment for color approvals than humans.

At the color supplier, software is available to help formulate the best recipe for matching a color under a single or multiple light sources. Computer color matching is a wise investment for any company that has to mix color to match a customer’s standard.

The payback on these systems is often well under 12 months.

In addition, suppliers must be able to control their processes

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ment is essential to having on time matches and in reducing problems when scaling up for bulk production. It is important to choosing suppliers with color matching expertise and who have invested in the proper equipment relevant to their processes.

In the ideal world, orders follow quickly once approvals on lab samples have been achieved.

Unfortunately, many times a lot of color development is done that does not result in an order.

Digital communication and lab productivity tools help to minimize costs when no orders are placed. When orders do result, the tools enable the supplier to have confidence in their ability to meet the color requirements of their customer.

Complete articles could be written on each of the

concepts and technologies that we have touched on in this writing. It is my hope that if you are intrigued or inspired by some of these concepts that you will seek out experts in the field to help you and your supply chain to become more effective and competitive. n

very closely and try to reproduce in the lab on a small scale what they make in production on a very large scale. Choosing the right lab equip-

Chris Hipps, of Datacolor, has been involved with the textile and apparel industry for over 16 years.

His experience includes textile manufacturing, dyeing, customer technical support and process improvement at Allied-Signal, Clariant and Dixie Yarns. Since 1998 he has held various positions at

OptiTex’s Color Manager OptiTex, the Israel-based source of CAD for the fashion industries, has added Color Manager to its 3D Runway Designer software. Color Manager offers optimal communication between designer and manufacturer, giving designers a high degree of color control over their collections.

Color Manager is divided into three main sections: • Color Pickers and Color Spaces: support four-color spaces: RGB, HSV (hue, saturation, value/ brightness),CMYK, and HEX (hexadecimal).

• Harmonious Color Schemes: for work in monochromatic colors.

• Color Banks: allows designers to create, edit and store color schemes in color banks, facilitating collaboration among users and more efficient communication with other graphic software.

Designers can choose and change colors in real time and view the results immediately. The ultimate goal of Color Manager is to revolutionize the way large manufacturers set their specs for production.

OptiTex specializes in the development of easy-to-operate 2D and 3D CAD/CAM solutions for sewn products and related industries. Its open architecture system features a multitude of import/export formats, enabling OptiTex users to interface with a wide range of software and hardware. OptiTex products are available in more than 20 languages and are sold and supported around the world through certified distributors and OEMs. Info: optitex.int@optitex.com

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DE S I G N & DEVE L O P M ENT

No catwalks for this designer Lisa Cook McGill of Crux Design Industries is a technical apparel consultant whose expertise can mean the difference between life and death

By Doris Montanera

I

t’s evening and Lisa Cook McGill is standing in a warehouse in Toronto’s west-end with a battalion from the Department of National Defence (DND). She is watching a trio of soldiers at their stations, preparing to fire a mortar.

McGill is a designer but there are no fabulous catwalks or leggy models in her fashion life. To be precise, McGill is a technical apparel consultant. And, although it sounds melodramatic, her expertise can mean the difference between life and death.

This is part of her research.

“The soldiers needed a glove that allowed them to turn knobs and execute small tasks, as well as a solid grip for holding on to the mortar and setting in the attenuation tube without it getting caught,” she says. They also needed a glove that would protect them against extreme cold conditions and situations with water and ice buildup.

She designed a prototype, testing it in the cold chamber at Defence Research and Development Canada, with spray bottles of water. “We had to be a bit innovative with a test mortar as DND does not lend out such equipment, for obvious reasons,” she says. “So we found that a champagne bottle to simulate the shape for testing grip and finger articulation requirements.”

This was the second job she had completed for the military. The first was headwear that could be

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worn under the soldiers’ new helmets, which she did almost a decade ago; it’s still part of their kit.

McGill is the force behind Toronto-based Crux Design Industries. It’s an evolution of her nowdefunct outdoor apparel company Tramp Royal, which she created with the help of her husband Bryan Shaw in the early ‘90s.

McGill studied applied math at the University of Toronto and apparel design and production management at Ryerson before spending eight years at Riviera Slacks in Toronto, where she was responsible for all aspects of merchandising and marketing at the menswear company. This included handling the launch and license of Wayne Clark’s high-end ready-to-wear collection.

She left Riviera and, after a sabbatical spent hiking, she started designing and wholesaling her own line. Tramp Royal morphed into Crux in the early millennium when the outerwear market started changing, she says. “I spent an enormous amount of time collecting money and not designing.”

In the meantime, she had already outfitted Quebec explorer Bernard Voyer with custom-made thermal layers for his successful expeditions to Antarctica and Mount Everest. The publicity generated from these trips dominoed into requests from all over the world for specialized apparel.

McGill took these two threads fate had handed her and wove them into a new company that

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assists industrial and corporate clients with occupational health and safety compliance. She does the field assessments, makes recommendations, sources appropriate fabrics and provides the specs for product designs.

Despite her highly technical job, her tools are not so. In a front-facing room of her Beach-area home, are a basic iMac computer and printer/scanner. This is where she does a majority of her work, which is to assemble a production team and provide the parameters. “I get the fabrics, the patternmakers, the manufacturers. My involvement in the production is writing detailed specifications. Then, if the sample isn’t right, I tell them to fix it.”

Her clients have included not only the Canadian military but 3M, Stelco and the Greater Toronto Airport Authority (GTAA). “I go in and look at their regulatory compliances, their work environment and what people look like — for example, do they do a lot of bending or crawling,” McGill says. “If you don’t have someone who understands the end-use, you get basic woven cargo pants that don’t move with the body.”

That was the case with GTAA. Over her years of working with it, she has logged a lot of time in the field understanding the “on the job apparel requirements,” she says.

“I spent one morning in the snow removal barn checking out all of the huge snow removal equipment they use at the airport to clear runways. Given the tight spaces for getting in and out of the equipment and the numerous levers it was important to build cold weather personal protective equipment that was not bulky and did not have extraneous loops or parts sticking out that could get caught, but still provided cold weather protection for the operator. I also spent some time in the baggage handling area (pre new terminal) and observed how dark the work areas were. This was an area that high-visibility apparel was most suited for. GTAA adopted the CSA Z96 standard for high-visibility apparel at their facility on my recommendation.”

Although some improvements seem tiny, they are significant. For example, with increased security after 9/11, she shifted the airport logos from patches that were sewn on (and could be easily picked off and sewn onto fake uniforms) to logos that are embroidered directly onto garments. She added reflective tape on the T-shirts, trousers and all safety gear, especially in low-visibility areas.

And she changed the fasteners on the outerwear, moving away from Velcro that was damaging the fine wool of the dress uniforms, to zippers and snaps instead.

To enhance comfort, the tailored uniforms are now made of tropical, lightweight wool versus the hopsack that was being used before, and she moved to a flame-resistant fabric for the plumb-

DE S I G N & DEVE L O P M ENT

CAD / CA M

Gerber celebrates 20 years of AccuMark® Gerber Technology is celebrating the 20th anniversary of AccuMark®. In 1988, AccuMark was the pioneer in its field and it continues to provide powerful solutions for the apparel industry’s rapidly changing needs.

The newest release of AccuMark version 8.3 incorporates data exchange enhancements and upgrades designed to improve efficiency, streamline data integration and promote ease of use. Improvements to the interface with its WebPDM and Fashion Lifecycle Management suite, Gerber’s Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) offering, provide a more tightly integrated software solution.

In addition, Pattern Wizard in version 8.3 provides faster generation of graded costing patterns and improved quality control of styles that are produced offshore. For more powerful access and control of statistical data, AccuMark version 8.3 supports both SQL Server 2005 and SQL Server Express 2005. SQL Server Express is included, free of charge, to introduce users to the benefits of quickly and easily accessing AccuMark data from their desktops and small servers. SQL Server has more robust functionality and facilitates communication between AccuMark and other ERP systems.

The introduction of AccuMark software in 1988 marked the first time that many users interfaced with a PC. Considered state-of-the art at the time, the original program contained what are now basic features and functionalities. Over the years, AccuMark continually introduced breakthrough capabilities, including: • Silhouette: The only product that translates manual pattern-making actions through the use of a digital drafting table directly to pattern design software.

• Integration to 3D virtual design systems.

• AccuNest: Automatic nesting software to maximize material yields.

• Pattern Wizard: Automates pattern creation using measurement charts.

AccuMark software is currently used by more than 14,000 customers worldwide, with more than 40,000 seats installed.

Info: cynthia.mahlstedt@gerbertechnology.com

[TC]2’s Avatar Creation Engine [TC]2 has released a unique “Human Avatar Engine” (HAE) for all applications utilizing human models, including online virtual worlds. The HAE is based on statistical sampling of a large number of previously scanned human subjects so, rather than requiring the person to be scanned, it can be accessed anywhere.

The pool of 3D scan data comes from [TC]2’s SizeUSA human sizing project of the U.S. population, which contains 3D body scans of over 10,800 individuals. SizeUSA ranges from ages 18-65+ in all heights, weights, and ethnicities.

Using this data and extracting over 3,000 reference points from each body scan, it is possible to create a very realistic avatar of a person using a very small number of inputs. An example set of input data points a person would use to create her avatar are items like height, weight, and age as well as a few body measures such as chest, waist, seat circumference and inseam measure. In total, only a dozen responses are required to very closely replicate the real person.

Unlike parametric computer-generated human models, the output of the Human Avatar Engine is more realistic and human-like and less ‘cartoon-ish.’

The Human Avatar Engine can be tuned to generate avatars in any mesh density and can include internal joint rigging locations for animation, allowing its easy accommodation in any existing virtual world or software application that utilizes human models.

ca

ers, electricians and other trades. Despite the dangerous nature of their jobs, they didn’t have that before, she says.

She got the GTAA warranties on the product and provided guidelines on how to take care and clean them.

Staying committed to her “Made in Canada” credo is currently her biggest problem, she says. She has to source most of her textiles from mills in Switzerland, Austria and the U.S, which are more progressive in terms of research and development and how they outfit their police force and firefighters. And, although she’s worked successfully with AGO in London, Ont., a manufacturer of flame-resistant personal protective equipment, and Freda’s in Toronto for dress uniforms, she’s had trouble finding Canadian manufacturers who have the technology, skills or willingness to do the job.

“Uniforms are not the standard clothing manufacturing model,” says McGill. “Most companies are used to delivering 5,000 of something then it’s over. But uniforms have to carry inventory…. Small manufacturers do not have access to the capital required to bid on a multimillion-dollar government apparel contract. As a result companies from other regions lose out on contracts and the downward spiral continues. My other challenge is…in all my tender documents I demand a QAP (Quality Assurance Plan). Most companies do not understand the requirement. Right away this tells me they are not up to the task. I really do not think manufacturers are looking at what is going on in Europe and Asia in terms of new fabrics and sewing techniques.”

She keeps her frustration quietly in check. There is manufacturing work to be had, but she has few options in Canada for companies that can handle the jobs that need to be done. Uniforms are one of the few apparel categories where money must be spent, whether companies want to or not, because if employees are hurt, the infraction can lead to more serious financial consequences.

McGill knows; she does a thriving business as an expert consultant for law firms dealing with Ministry of Labour disputes. Half her job is educating the companies she works with.

An email comes in. It’s one of the textile mills with information on a new fabric, and McGill’s workday begins. n

Extended Modaris 3D Fit Lectra has introduced a new version of Modaris 3D Fit, the company’s virtual 3D prototyping solution that enables pattern-makers, designers, developers, and sales and marketing teams to simulate and visualize their models in 3D on a virtual mannequin.

3D virtual prototyping • Ensures the quality of a garment and its look and fit in all graded sizes • Reduces the number of physical prototypes necessary to finalize a model • Makes communication more fluid among the actors in product development • Accelerates the collection development cycle • Enables users to overcome the “Fast Fashion” challenges of an increasing number of collections and product variants • Helps reduce development costs Modaris 3D Fit has two new parametric mannequins — a “plus size” male for simulating garments sized 58 to 66, and a female for sizes 44 to 52. Lectra has also added new postures for all its parametric mannequins.

Modaris 3D Fit V5R2 features an enriched library of materials with 20 new supplementary materials bringing the total number to 140. 3D simulation is now possible for certain knits as well as technical and/or professional clothing.

As with all new Lectra solutions, Modaris 3D Fit V5R2 is compatible with Microsoft’s Windows Vista operating system and is supported by professional services delivered by Lectra’s trade and solutions experts.

Richpeace Canada

Info: www.lectra.com

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ca TEXTILES

textile notes

Thermo°Cool ADVANSA, a European manufacturer of polyester fiber and yarn, introduced ADVANSA Thermo°Cool™, a thermoregulation fiber designed for performance sports apparel and footwear, to the North American market this summer.

Due to its unique fiber construction, fabrics made with ADVANSA Thermo°Cool™ are able to provide superior moisture and temperature control to keep wearers comfortable across a wide range of temperatures and activity levels: ADVANSA Thermo°Cool™ claims to wick moisture faster than other materials by as much as 48 percent.

The fiber is designed with maximum surface area and micro-channels to transport moisture quickly away from the skin. The fiber’s hollow interior enhances air circulation and focuses energy on the heat transfer process to maximize evaporative cooling.

The fiber’s channels also enable the fabric to provide lightweight, thermo-buffering properties. It protects against rapid temperature changes, capturing body heat or allowing excess heat to dissipate evenly as the wearer’s body temperature dictates.

ADVANSA ThermoºCool™ is also available in an ECO version. For customers concerned about the environment, this version uses a polymer that is made from renewable resources, such as corn, instead of traditional petrochemical derivates.

ADVANSA resulted from a joint venture between E. I. DuPont de Nemours and Sabanci Holding, to create Europe’s leading polyester manufacturer.

GlenGuard® promises superior protection Technical fabrics maker, Glen Raven, introduced GlenGuard FR, an innovative flame resistant fabric for protective apparel, at the recent Global Petroleum Show 2008 in Calgary.

GlenGuard FR fabrics are made with Kermel® aramid and modacrylic fibers that provide permanent, inherent flame resistance and arc flash protection.

GlenGuard FR fabrics are designed to be softer and suppler, lighter weight, more colorfast, and more abrasion resistant than other FR fabrics on the market. As a result, uniforms are more comfortable and last longer.

The idea is always to provide a protective garment that workers like to wear. “Workers may be less likely to wear uncomfortable uniforms as specified, thereby putting them at higher risk for injury,” says Hal Bates, Glen Raven’s marketing director. “With GlenGuard FR fabrics, it is possible to make protective apparel that is both effective and comfortable.”

GlenGuard FR fabrics exceed the strictest industrial safety standards (NFPA 70E) for thermal and body burn protection and offer the best protection-to-weight ratio available for single layer garments. In addition, they have been awarded the Oeko-Tex Standard 100, indicating that they are free from harmful levels of more than 100 substances known to be hazardous to human health.

Info: www.GlenGuard.com or 1-800-630-3759.

Protective garment test lab North Carolina State University recently opened a new state-of-the-art laboratory that will enable researchers to test and enhance protective garments worn by first responders to protect against chemical and biological agents.

The Man-in-Simulant Test (MIST) facility is located at the College of Textiles atrium on NC State’s Centennial Campus. The facility is funded by a $2 million grant from the U.S. Department of Defense.

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Research centre to open in Pennsylvania Pennsylvania University has been awarded $1.3 million in set-up funds by the state’s Department of Community and Economic Development (DCED) to establish the Pennsylvania Advanced Textile Research and Innovation Center (PATRIC).

The centre is a collaboration between Philadelphia University, Drexel University and the Ben Franklin Technology Partners of Southeastern Pennsylvania to provide research, development and testing of advanced material systems in a range of biomedical and human protection applications, with a strong focus on textiles.

“It will enable us to further advance innovative textiles research and technology development and will support applied textile research that is not being conducted anywhere else in the United States…“ said Stephen Spinelli Jr, president of Philadelphia University.

The three main areas of research include the identification of toxic agents in consumer textiles and

apparel; human comfort interactions with protective textile systems; and nanofiber technology for biomedical devices.

No sweat Toray Industries has developed a nanotechnologybased deodorant product for synthetic fabrics that reduces up to 80 percent of odor generated through perspiration.

Mushon, which is Japanese for “without smell,” should be available to consumers next year. Mushon specializes in reducing perspiration odor for apparel applications, including sportswear and work uniforms.

The technology also features antibacterial performance.

The technology, which maintains its effectiveness after 20 home launderings, got a good workout in March when it was tested in the space uniform worn

by Japanese astronaut Takao Doi during the Space Shuttle Endeavor’s mission to the International Space Station. n

ECO - TE X T I L E S

For the discerning, elephant dung and soy-based ink You can order printed labels in recycled polyester, bamboo or circus droppings — and boast that they are all sustainable.

For Josh Dunn, manager of product sustainability and strategic business development at Avery Dennison, “sustainability” is an umbrella that encompasses the company’s commitment to balance the social, environmental and economic parameters of its products.

“As our customer increasingly moves toward ecofriendly products, our challenge is to find the right labeling product at a price he is willing to pay.”

Products relating to apparel divide mainly into paper tags and fibre-based labels. Most paper tags use recycled or certified paper but tree-free specialty products, like mango, banana, mineral-based or elephant dung paper, are available to companies more concerned with the environment than cost.

Among other considerations, elephant dung, which is only available in certain quantities at certain times of the year, is not suitable for mass paper production. Avery Dennison offers organic cotton, recycled polyester and bamboo printed labels for clothing and is moving toward sustainable water- or soy-based ink products.

As for heat transfer, or tagless, labels, the direction is to move away from PVC. “We are working on heat transfer technology that offers the physical and chemical properties the customer wants, without using PVC. We’re getting there,” says Dunn.

Eco-friendly heat transfer A new water-based, eco-friendly heat transfer suitable for clothing worn next to the skin has been launched by Avery Dennison.

The product, called Halo-Free ECO, was developed to meet growing demand for tag-free labeling solutions for the apparel industry.

The transfer is made from a proprietary formula of water-based inks that withstand dry cleaning and home laundering to 60°C but will not fade with wash or wear.

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Avery Dennison also says there is no visible adhesive shadow (Halo) around the motif, creating a crisp, clean image.

Typical applications for Halo-free ECO include men’s and women’s casual wear, childrenswear, intimate apparel, sportswear (not performance fabrics) and corporate wear.

Defining “sustainability” There is pressure at every step of the supply chain to demonstrate an environmentally and socially conscious commitment. However, lack of standards and regulations and a proliferation of claims and labels leave room for very broad interpretations of “sustainable” apparel.

According to the Sustainable Products Corporation, sustainable products provide environmental, social and economic benefits while protecting public health, welfare, and the environment over their full commercial cycle — from the extraction of raw materials to final disposition.

To be legitimately considered “sustainable,” apparel must include some or all of these practices: • Use of certified organic natural fibers (wool, cotton and linen) • Use of highly renewable fibers (bamboo, soy) • Use of low-impact synthetic or recycled fibers • Use of non-toxic or reduced-toxicity fiber processes and treatments • Use of low-impact or natural dyes • Design and color choices aimed at longevity rather than planned obsolescence • Fair trade, ethical labor practices, and elimination of child labor and other exploitation • Reduced energy use throughout the product life cycle • Minimal or environmentally appropriate packaging “Greenwashing,” by contrast, is the act of misleading consumers regarding the environmental practices of a company or the environmental benefits of a product or service.

presents

Outward Processing UP TO 18% DUTY RELIEF SAVINGS

A duty relief program for apparel imported into Canada that has Canadian content. Doubletex converted fabrics and components qualify for this duty remission.

UÊBenefits for importers: 18% duty relief savings UÊAn economic choice to use dependable Canadian fabrics

Doubletex

UÊ“Just in time delivery” to overseas garment makers UÊOpportunity to utilize Doubletex products & expertise: consistent, high quality and tested fabrics UÊContinuity of fabrics from Canada to overseas markets

Inherent comfort Intrinsic soil release

Stretch comfort to the max

The double-action stain protector

Triple protection: Fresh Clean Safe

1-800-311-1770 www.doubletex.com op@doubletex.com

ca TRENDS

Textile trends from Premiere Vision Preview, New York

Fall/winter 2009/10

Trends by WGSN

W

GSN rounds up the hottest fabrics seen at New York’s Première Vision Preview, suggesting extreme, bizarre undercurrents in even everyday fabrics throughout autumn/winter 2009/10.

Despite increased competition and economic caution, New York’s PV Preview got off to a strong start. The show’s popularity is on the rise, with attendance increasing from 3,200 last season to 3,800 this season.

The tough economic environment was reflected in more competitive price points, with even the higher-end mills adjusting prices to suit the weak U.S. dollar. Another cost-cutting measure was the increased number of mills appointing U.S. representatives rather than opening branch offices.

Color • The fall/winter 2009/10 color board reflected intense, exaggerated hues. Energetic brights, profound darks and neutralized pastels came with increased luminosity and color saturation.

• Non-conformist mixes brought a powerful jolt of sunny liveliness to the cold winter palette.

• Greens, such as chemical fertilizer and dense, dark algae, dominated the palette.

Looking almost surreal, they completely overshadowed the blues.

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canadianapparel

• A lovely, smoky evanescence was seen in the range of pastels, including North Sea blue and oyster gray.

• Warm tones ranged from daring lava to pungent vinegar and ginger brown. Fun bubblegum fluorescents popped out, while somber hues such as cat’s tongue pink, mauve fuel and elastic band yellow balanced the offering.

Play of elements • A complex, uninhibited play of elements underlined the color and fabric constructions, pushing boundaries on everyday stereotypes.

• Prints seemed blurred, caught in motion, spinning out of a digital printer. The motifs were fantastical, inspired by the endangered, bizarre side of nature. Tribal geometrics and futuristic florals were other key looks.

• Knits looked compact and came in sober bottomweight colors and constructions.

• On the other hand, wovens, such as novelty tweeds and crimped wool gauzes were not only loose and airy in matte and basket weaves, but also tricked-up with fancy yarns and tapes to look playful.

• New versions of plaid-like looks, including embroideries, jacquards, prints and fancy weaves, looked like a surefire trend.

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Double faced fabrics • Double-faced fabric was a major highlight at the show. Bonded mutations such as multilayered, sandwiched jacquards and plaids were seen across the board — even in wool, silk and knit versions.

• The unexpected mixes played with contrasting elements such as fusing knit and woven, washed and luminous or hairy, raised and engraved together.

• Wool suitings were blended, bringing fluid drape to formalwear.

• A temperature-regulator fabric finish called Klimeo, patented by • French suitings mill Roudiere, seemed interesting.

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“First sale” is alive and well!

TRADE

The opportunities for substantial duty savings are here for the taking

By Gerald B. Horn

I

have previously written in this column about the substantial duty savings that are available to companies importing into the United States goods that are the subject of what are commonly referred to as three-tiered or multi-tiered sales transactions.

Despite a vigorous attempt by U.S. Customs to eliminate these duty savings, action by the U.S. Congress in response to an incredible effort by the importing public (spearheaded by a coalition of companies represented by our firm), first sale has been saved. Accordingly, it is a good time to revisit this topic and to encourage those not currently taking advantage of its benefits to do so.

Often, when purchasing goods from vendors in Asia and elsewhere, importers find themselves buying, not from the actual manufacturer, but rather from a “middleman” trading company. It is this trading company that sources the goods for the importer and purchases them for resale to the importer. As a result, U.S. Customs duties are almost always paid on the mark-up taken by the middleman in this transaction. However, because the U.S. recognizes the concept of “first sale”, the price paid by the middleman to the factory can, when properly documented, be used to establish the dutiable value of the merchandise. Depending upon the nature of the transaction, this can result in duty savings of 10-25 percent and sometimes even more. While the same concept was also available in Canada dating back to the mid to late ‘90s, as a result of legislative changes within Canada, first sale appraisement have, for all intents and purposes, ended. As noted above, while a similar effort to end first sale was undertaken by U.S. Customs, it has proven unsuccessful and has breathed new life into first sale duty savings.

While the most common example of a first sale transaction is the one outlined above, this is not the only scenario under which this concept may be applied. Even where it appears, on first blush, that there is only one seller involved and that this seller is the actual manufacturer of the goods, experience has shown that often even this transaction can be reconfigured so as to create first sale opportunities. While in this second type of transaction the duty savings tend to average in the lower 10-15 percent range, they are still quite significant, particularly when one takes into account the average rates of duty on apparel entering the U.S. Whether at the higher or the lower of the savings range, these duties savings go straight to a company’s bottom line and allow it the opportunity to either reduce prices, while maintaining margins, in order to secure a greater market share, or increase profit margins, or perhaps a bit of both.

In preventing Customs from modifying the use of first sale, the U.S. Congress has extended this type of appraisement at least through January 1, 2011. At that time, should Customs wish to try, once again, to modify the use of first sale, it must now go through an extensive series of steps before it may do so, including reporting back to Congress. Also, as a result of instructions from Congress, Customs is now beginning the process of collecting data on those transactions that are currently under the first sale scenario. With this in mind, importers who are claiming first sale values will now be required to indicate through a check-off on their Customs entries that a first sale price is being used. This is designed to allow the Congress to make a determination, if needed, with regard to the impact that first sale is having on the values being declared to Customs.

Because of the considerable opposition that was mounted to fight the efforts taken by Customs and the quick action taken by the Congress to delay even the possibility of any action being taken, I strongly believe that first sale will be here not only until 2011, but well into the future.

As a result, it is an opportunity that should not be passed up and one which importers should quickly look into and develop in order to begin saving the substantial sums that are there for the taking. First sale is an incredible opportunity, and one that should not be missed. n If you would like further information about this or if you have any questions about how it may apply to your business, please do not hesitate to contact Gerald B. Horn (ghorn@strtrade.com) at (212) 883-1300.

L A B E L L I N G RE G U L AT I ON S

Made in Canada claims Rules for Made in Canada claims: • The last substantial transformation of the goods must have occurred in Canada, AND • At leat 51% of the total direct costs — labor and materials — of manufacturing the goods is Canadian.

Implicit declarations of domestic origin: • General impression to the public • Pictorial representations eg. flag, apply • General terms such as “produced” or “manufactured” in Canada Qualified claims of domestic origin: • “Assembled”, “Sewn,” “Designed”, “Packaged” in Canada Country of origin • The TLA and TLAR do not require that the name of the country of origin be identified on an imported textile product unless a representation is made to the act that the article, fabric or fibre is imported.

• Canada Border Services Agency (CBSA) does require country of origin marking on specific goods. Importers should communicate with the CBSA. For detailed information on Canadian labeling regulations, go to www.cb-bc-gc.ca

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www.hotelrubyfoos.com canadianapparel

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ca CONSUMER ISSUES

Get smart!

New CAF/Trendex Apparel Insights service provides the metrics you need to target your market more accurately

What do men look for when they’re buying a new pair of pants?

Who really cares about organic fabrics and are they willing to pay a premium for it?

Is your brand a household name in B.C.? In Quebec? Anywhere?

Predictably, younger households purchased on the Internet more frequently (17.8%) than those 60 and over (9.4%) and households with income of $100,000 and over had twice (22.8%) the online purchasing rate of those with lower income (11.3%).

I

Organics and eco-friendly fabrics

f you don’t regularly ask yourself questions like these, you probably should.

And fortunately it is now easier than ever before to get the answers.

The Canadian Apparel Federation (CAF) recently entered into an agreement with Trendex North America, well-known as the source of the industry’s information on market share, to publish Canadian Consumer Apparel Insight. The semi-annual publication is based on interviews conducted twice a year with a nationally representative sample of 4,000 Canadian adults.

The publication provides insight into a wide range of Canadian consumer apparel purchasing behavior and is a useful tool with a research protocol that can be modified to provide individual companies with the specific information they need.

The debut issue of Canadian Consumer Apparel Insights, published in August 2008, contains retail apparel market share information for all of 2007 plus the only information ever published on cross border and Internet apparel shopping.

The initial issue also details the consumer’s attitude toward fabric treatments and performance enhancements and of their brand awareness of men’s workwear and women’s lingerie by age, income and provincial segments.

Consumers apparel purchasing behavior One of the key findings highlighted in the first issue is that Canadian retailers may be losing more sales to U.S. Internet retailers and cross border shopping than previously assumed.

During the fourth quarter of 2007: • 12.7% of all Canadian households traveled to the U.S. to shop/purchase apparel • 14.6% of all Canadian household purchased clothing via the Internet. Of these, 46% purchased more than once and 49% of the time it was from American retailers.

Cross border shopping was greatest (17.0%) in Ontario and lowest in Quebec (4.2%) and British Columbia (7.4%) and did not vary by household income, except for households below the $40,000 level.

Have you been earnestly marketing your organic cotton products as “good for the environment?” Big mistake. Research documented in the first issue of Canadian Consumer Apparel Insights indicates that the small segment of people who seek organic fabric in their clothing — 9% of women and 7% of men —do so for personal satisfaction rather than altruistic intentions. Quite simply, they buy organic fabrics because they like how they feel on the body.

Furthermore, did you know that textile features like wrinkle free and stain resistant are more important to men than to women? Just one small nugget of information among many that can help brand managers fine tune their programs along gender, age or regional lines.

Table Two

CAF/Trendex Consumer Apparel Insights – January 2008 Take Feature Into Consideration Feature

Men

Women

Wrinkle Free

71.5%

70.8%

Stain Resistant

66.1%

58.2%

Moisture Wicking

32.5%

26.7%

Anti Microbial/Bacteria Control

20.3%

15.5%

Ultra Violet Protection

18.3%

16.4%

Brand awareness Each issue of Canadian Apparel Insights will detail brand awareness for two product categories. The August issue focused on women’s lingerie and men’s workwear. Brands with the highest awareness were: Women’s Lingerie

Table One

CAF/Trendex Consumer Apparel Insights – January 2008

Men’s Workwear

Wonder Bra

(95.4%)

Kodiak

(80.0%)

Warners

(75.7%)

Dickies®

(31.2%)

Calvin Klein

(68.9%)

Carhartt

(17.7%)

Why Purchased Apparel Products made with These Fabrics Why Purchased (1)

Total Men

Total Women

Good for my health

21.9%

23.4%

Helps the environment

46.3%

51.9%

Likes the feel of the clothing

62.4%

61.5%

Helps Third World Countries

9.9%

12.9%

Unique/different styles

12.0%

21.4%

Other reasons

26.2%

20.3%

(1)

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Multiple Mentions

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Future issues will detail brand awareness for women’s jeans, men’s underwear and women’s coordinates.

“This new publication fills a void in the market intelligence system of Canadian apparel suppliers and retailers,” noted Bob Kirke, executive director of CAF. “We are delighted that we can now give the industry the ability to easily identify segmented benchmarks and key indicators that can radically influence their results.”

“The first issue alone provides answers to questions on which, for too long, we could only speculate.” n To order the publication or for questions about it, please contact Trendex North America at info@trendexna.com

TradeshowS

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European Tradeshow Review

By Marc Lugert

Despite these factors, 1,750 exhibitors presented Spring/ Summer 2009 collections at CPD (Womenswear), Body Look (Body, Beach and Legwear), HMD (Menswear) and Global Fashion (Private Label, Sourcing) and attracted some 54,000 buyers.

Two thirds of visitors came from independent retail stores and boutiques and almost 90 percent were trade buyers.

CPD had 1,060 exhibitors; Body Look, 260 exhibitors; and HMD, which focuses on export, had 100 exhibitors showing trousers, knitwear and oversize collections. Canadian exhibitors included Bravado Designs (Body Look); Frank Lyman (CPD); Joseph Ribkoff (Fashion Houses) and Mackage (Showroom).

OutDoor The 15th edition of OutDoor 2008, which took place July 1719 in Friedrichhafen Germany, attracted 787 exhibitors and had an international participation rate of 80 percent.

The outdoor apparel and gear industry is currently growing 2.6 percent annually in Europe, with sales of US$8.8 billion in 2008.

Germany is Europe’s biggest single outdoor market reaching US$2.7 billion this year.

Outdoor related apparel is expected to reach sales of close to 1 billion Euro annually within the next few years in Europe, making it the fastest growing segment of the industry. The demand in Europe for outdoor apparel is significantly influenced by fashion.

Canada’s Arc’teryx introduced 16 new apparel styles within its Endorphin trail running line, with the focus on exceptional breathability and moisture management as well as freedom of movement and light weight. Their super lightweight windshells weigh only 130 grams and compress into their own pocket.

Integral Designs, of Calgary, participating for the second time, showed its super lightweight SIL product range. The silk-like polyester fabric is used in the production of expedition tarps and tents but also in a wide variety of cold weather apparel and jackets.

Other Canadian exhibitors were Everlast (Richmond, BC); Coghlans (Winnipeg), Tilly Endurables (Toronto), and Kamik (Montreal).

OutDoor is set to increase its international importance. However, like many other European trade fairs, it has to be considered as primarily a promotional showcase. As one German exhibitor stated: “We don’t write orders here, but it is an effective way to represent the company as a marketing tool.”

IGEDO fashion fairs High energy prices, consumer uncertainty, increasing inflation and the effect of knock-offs that are straining the European clothing trade were the background for the IGEDO fashion fairs that took place July 27-29 in Dusseldorf, Germany, a city that boasts over 800 showrooms.

Pure Pure Womenswear, which took place August 3 - 5 in London, added 220 new labels to its line-up, making it the UK’s largest womenswear tradeshow and one of Europe’s dominating venues.

The credit crunch and a slowdown in the UK economy resulted in cautious buying by UK retailers but new colors and label created an upbeat mood among the mainly UK retailers.

Canadian labels that were shown included Andy The Ahn, Andrew Majtenyi, 1921 Jeans, American Essentials (Calvin Klein Socks), and Myka Designs (fashion jewelry).

T r a d e s h o w u p d at e

Material World adds West Coast edition Urban Expositions and the American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) will launch a West Coast fall edition of Material World, September 30-October 2, 2009, at the Los Angeles Convention Center. Titled Material World West, the new edition will complement the spring Miami Beach event by bringing the resources of the event to a target audience from the Pacific Rim and United States, with emphasis on the Western region.

Focusing on California’s position as a major manufacturing and fashion center, Material World West will bring together a broad base of traditional fabric, sourcing, technology and logistics resources. In addition, the West Coast event will include a garment production equipment and machinery section and will feature expanded trend pavilions and forecasting presentations.

For 2009, both editions of Material World will put a spotlight on green products/services, performance, Technology Solutions and global matchmaking through advance and on-site marketing efforts and focused educational tracks.

Info: inquiry@material-world.com

Directory of advertisers

NSIA 2009: new venue, new date The National Snow Industries Association (NSIA) will host the 2009 tradeshow in Montreal at the Palais des Congrès from Sunday, February 8th to Tuesday, February 10th.

Advertiser

Page #

Doubletex

17

Export Development Canada

23

India INTERNATIONAL GARMENT FAIR

6

Lectra

24

Richpeace Canada

15

HOTEL Ruby Foo’s

19

MONTREAL FASHION WEEK

3

THE SOURCE, the new BREAD & BUTTER textile show, will once again take place parallel to BBBarcelona January 21-23.

THE SOURCE debuted in July with around 50 exhibitors and 5,000 visitors. Side events such as the Denim talk show, the Martelli Vintage Collection, the WGSN fabric trend seminar and the B&B Design Exhibition, established the show the as a platform for marketing and communication.

This time round, THE SOURCE will be positioned in its own hall on the upper level of the Superior Hall. In addition, retail visitors of BREAD & BUTTER BARCELONA will also be admitted, along with international productand sourcing teams and the designers and developers invited by BREAD & BUTTER and the exhibitors.

TD Canada Trust

2

Info: Jenny.Boers@breadandbutter.com

Teeger Schiller

5

Info: Anna Di Meglio, 514.939.7370

The Source

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upcoming

events OCTOBER 2008 National Bridal Market Chicago Suite 8 - The Merchandise Mart, Chicago, IL, Chicago 10/01-02/2008 www.merchandisemart.com/nationalbridalmarket/ Los Angeles Junior / Young Contemporary Market California Mart, Los Angeles, CA 10/02-04/2008 www.californiamarketcenter.com Imprinted Sportswear Shows Regional, Multiple 10/03-05/2008 www.issshows.com WHOS NEXT WSN DEVELOPPEMENT, PARIS 10/03-06/2008 www.whosnext.com Childrens Club Javits Center 10/05-07/2008 enkshows.com/childrensclub/ Expo Hightex 2008 Bonsecours Market, Old Montreal, Montreal 10/06-07/2008 www.expohightex.com Workwear Canada Bonsecours MArket, Old Montreal, Montreal 10/06-07/2008 www.workwear-expo.com TEXGATE-INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE AND ACCESSORIES FAIR CNR EXPO, ISTANBUL 10/09-11/2008 www.itf-texgate.com Atlanta Womens & Childrens Market AmericasMart 3, Atlanta, GA, Atlanta 10/11-14/2008 www.americasmart.com AmericasMart Atlanta Apparel Mart, Atlanta 10/11-14/2008 www.americasmart.com/

Atlanta Mens Market AmericasMart Atlanta, GA 10/12-14/2008 www.americasmart.com Miami Mens & Boys Apparel Show & FL Gulf Coast Women, Apparel Miami Sheraton Mart Plaza, Miami 10/12-14/2008 www.sunshinestateexhibitors.com Semaine de Mode de Montréal / Montreal Fashion Week Marché Bonsecours Vieux-Montréal, Montréal 10/14-17/2008 www.montrealfashionweek.ca TITAS -Taipei Innovative Textile Application Show Taipei World Trade Center, Taipei 10/15-17/2008 www.titas.com.tw Taipei Innovative Textile Application Show Taipei World Trade Center, Taipei 10/15-17/2008 www.titas.com.tw The New Mart The New Mart, Los Angeles 10/17-21/2008 www.newmart.net Designers & Agents - Los Angeles The New Mart Building, 127 East 9th Street 3rd Floor, LA, CA 90015, The Cooper Design Space, 860 S. Los Angeles Street 10/17-19/2008 www.designersandagents.com

InterTEXTILE Shanghai-China International Trade Fair for Apparel Fabrics and Accessories (Autumn) Shanghai New Expo Center, Shanghai 10/20-23/2008 www.ccpittex.com Bangladesh Knit Exposition 2008 Sheraton Hotel, Dhaka 10/20-22/2008 www.bkmea.com Michigan Apparel Club Burton Manor, Livonia 10/21-23/2008 www.midwestapparelreps.com Exintex - International Textile Exhibition Expo Puebla, Mexico, Puebla 10/23-25/2008 www.exintex.com.mx Northstar Fashion Exhibitors 1300 Nicollet Mall, Minneapolis 10/26-29/2008 www.northstarfashion.com Los Angeles International Textile Show California Market Center, Los Angeles, CA 10/27-29/2008 www.californiamarketcenter.com Expo Pakistan 2008 Karachi Expo Centre, Karachi 10/27-30/2008 www.expopakistan.gov.pk Mega Show Part 2 Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong 10/28-30/2008 mega-show.com

Brighte Companies California Market Center, California 10/17-20/2008 www.enkshows.com STYLEMAX The Merchandise Mart, Chicago 10/18-21/2008 www.merchandisemart.com/stylemax/ New England Apparel Club (NEAC) Royal Plaza Trade Center & Hotel , Marlboro, MA 10/19-22/2008; 11/04-05/2008 www.neacshow.com

NOVEMBER 2008 Sportex Middle East Dubai World Trade Centre, Dubai 11/03-05/2008 www.sportexmiddleeast.com Indiana Womens Apparel Club Holiday Inn North at the Pyramids, Indianapolis 11/11-12/2008 www.midwestapparelreps.com ATF 2006 Good Hope Centre, Cape Town 11/11-13/2008 www.exportsintoafrica.co.za

JANUARY 2009

To consult comprehensive listings of tradeshows and industry events, visit

The New Mart The New Mart, Los Angeles 01/09-13/2009 www.newmart.net

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FIMI - International Fair of Childrens & Young Peoples Fashion Avenir des las Ferias, Valencia 01/16-19/2009 fimi.feriavalencia.com/

STYLEMAX The Merchandise Mart, Chicago 01/17-20/2009 www.merchandisemart.com/stylemax/ Atlanta Womens & Childrens Market AmericasMart 3, Atlanta, GA, Atlanta 01/24-27/2009 www.americasmart.com

FEBRUARY 2009 ISPO - Universe of Sports New Munich Fairgrounds, Munich 02/01-04/2009 www.ispo.com Igedo Fashion Fairs Düsseldorf Messe Düsseldorf, Düsseldorf 02/01-03/2009 www.igedo.com, www.body-look.de Texworld USA Javits Convention Center, New York 02/03-05/2009 www.TexworldUSA.com Southern Clothing Market Embassy Suites, Charlotte 02/07-09/2009 www.mensapparelclub.com Mens Apparel Club Embassy Suite Hotel, Charlotte 02/08-09/2009 www.mensapparelclub.com Philadelphia Buyers Market of American Craft Pennsylvania Convention Center, Philadelphia 02/12-29/2009 www.AmericanCraft.com WWIN Show - Womens Wear in Nevada Rio Resort Hotel or Mandalay Bay Hotel,Las Vegas, NV 02/16-19/2009 www.spectrade.com ASAP Global Sourcing Show Venetian Hotel, Las Vegas 02/16-19/2009 www.asapshow.com KIDShow Las Vegas Ballys Hotel, Las Vegas 02/16-18/2009 www.kidshow.cc CurveNV CurveNV - The Venitian Hotel, Las Vegas 02/16-18/2009 www.curvexpo.com Global Eco Show Venetian Hotel - Grand Ballroom, Las Vegas 02/16-19/2009 www.globalecoshow.com CurveNY Javits Galleria, New York 02/22-24/2009 www.curvexpo.com

IF THE OPPORTUNITY FITS . . .

Export and Development Canada

Would it surprise you to know that the total Canadian apparel industry represents $3 billion in annual export earnings? If you’re interested in getting the most from this billion dollar market, we can help. We’re Export Development Canada (EDC) and last year alone we supported over $740 million in business solutions for over 350 apparel exporters. Find out how EDC can support your business.

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