FEBRUARY 2024 · ISSUE NO. 2· VOL. 34
F E B R U A RY 2 0 2 4
AUTUMN 2024 COMING IN
CHICAGO COLLECTIVE ISSUE WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW NOW
RED HOT!
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STILL SELLING SUITS TOP RETAILERS SHARE SECRETS CHICAGO PREVIEW THIS TOWN MEANS BUSINESS FALL FASHION PREVIEW MONOCHROME MAGIC
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NEW DATE PATTERN – JOIN US ON PREVIEW SATURDAY!
SAT/SUN/MON/TUE
FEBRUARY 3-6, 2024 AUGUST 4-7, 2024 THE MART, CHICAGO
The Chicago Collective is the Premier Menswear show in North America, hosting the top brands and retailers from around the world. Shop the best brands, attend the iconic opening night party, enjoy exciting events and amenities. SATURDAY PREVIEW DAY: 2:00 PM - 6:00PM SUNDAY: 8:00 AM - 6:00 PM MONDAY: 8:00 AM - 6:00 PM TUESDAY: 8:00 AM - 3:00 PM
chicagocollectivemens.com
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THE WOMEN’S EDITION OF YOUR FAVORITE SHOW.
SUN/MON/TUE
MARCH 3-5, 2024 OCTOBER 6-8, 2024 THE MART, CHICAGO
Our Women’s Edition features everything you love about Chicago Collective, including an easy to shop floor, a fun opening night party, special pop-up events and our popular buyer hotel reimbursement program. SUNDAY: 9:00 AM - 6:00 PM MONDAY: 9:00 AM - 6:00 PM TUESDAY: 9:00 AM - 3:00 P
chicagocollectivewomens.com
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THS®Heat System’s
innovative technology features temperature control from a power pack to keep you comfortable without the bulkiness. Our collection of accessible luxurious coats travels well and offers a wide range of styles. See you at CALA Show 2/18/2024 - 2/19/2024 For sales inquiries, please contact: charlie@thermostyles.com
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DEPARTMENTS 8 Editor’s Letter Luxury’s Cost
10 Douglas Hand Knocking Knock Offs
12 Fashion Futures Tunnel Vision
THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY’S MAGAZINE
EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN FASHION & CONTENT EDITOR JOHN RUSSEL JONES CONTRIBUTING EDITOR MICHAEL MACKO ART DIRECTOR KARA KABLACK CREATIVE DIRECTORS NANCY CAMPBELL, TREVETT MCCANDLISS
16 Footwear Fine Pairings
18 Trousers Is Width Winning?
56 Fashion Monochrome Monde
ADVERTISING GROUP PUBLISHER LIZETTE CHIN ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER CHARLES GARONE
PRODUCTION PRODUCTION MANAGERS LAURIE GUPTILL, FERN MESHULAM, KATHY WENZLER MARKETING & PRODUCTION SPECIALIST CATHERINE ROSARIO OFFICE MANAGER PENNY BOAG
FEATURES 20 Conversations ITA’s Alessio Nanni
22 Strong Suits Top Retailers Tell All
47 Chicago Preview Collective Soul
68 Fashion History A Chi-town timeline
ACCOUNTING KASIE CARLETON, URSZULA JANECZKO, BRUCE LIBERMAN
ADVISORY BOARD TINA ANIVERSARIO NORDSTROM JUSTIN BERKOWITZ BLOOMINGDALE’S SAM GLASER STITCHED KARL-EDWIN GUERRE NO CHASER/GUERRISMS KATIE LIU & MICHAEL KREIMAN BLACK DOG 8 SHOWROOM ALAN LEINEN HALLS STEVE PRUITT BLACKS RETAIL
WAINSCOT MEDIA CHAIRMAN CARROLL V. DOWDEN PRESIDENT & CEO MARK DOWDEN CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER/VICE PRESIDENT STEVEN RESNICK SENIOR VICE PRESIDENTS LIZETTE CHIN, RITA GUARNA VICE PRESIDENTS NIGEL EDELSHAIN, THOMAS FLANNERY, NOELLE HEFFERNAN, MARIA REGAN
ON THE COVER: Dakota wears a Bugatchi jacket and shirt, Charvet tie, Shinola watch, and Gllutt hat. Above: On left, Dakota wears a Raffi jacket, turtleneck and pants, S.K. Manor Hill coat, and a Tartan Blanket Co. neckerchief. On Right, Saidou wears an Alex Mill jacket, Toast turtleneck, Thermostyles vest, Tartan Blanket Co. shawl, Gobie Cashmere aviator cap, and Gllutt hat.
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Photography by Jeffrey Rose, Styling by Michael Macko, Grooming by Scott McMahan, Honey Artists. Models, Dakota Dickey, Marilyn Agency, Saidou Diallo, Heroes New York.
MR (ISSN 1049-6726, USPS 7885) IS PUBLISHED FIVE TIMES A YEAR (JANUARY, FEBRUARY, JULY, AUGUST, NOVEMBER) MR MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED BY WAINSCOT MEDIA, 1 MAYNARD DRIVE, PARK RIDGE, NJ 07656. PERIODICALS POSTAGE PAID AT MAHWAH, NJ. AND AT ADDITIONAL MAILING OFFICES. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO MR MAGAZINE, 1 MAYNARD DRIVE, PARK RIDGE, NJ 07656. SUBSCRIPTION SERVICES: TO CHANGE AN ADDRESS OR REQUEST A SUBSCRIPTION, WRITE TO SUBSCRIPTIONS, MR MAGAZINE, 1 MAYNARD DRIVE, PARK RIDGE, NJ 07656; TELEPHONE: 201-573-5541. ADVERTISING INQUIRIES: CONTACT LIZETTE CHIN AT 201.571.2077 OR LIZETTE.CHIN@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM. COPYRIGHT © 2024 BY WAINSCOT MEDIA, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 34, ISSUE 2
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EDITOR’S LETTER
2.4 percent. However, spending on electronics and jewelry declined, as did home furnishings and toys. Online sales showed increases but less than last year, slowing from 10.6 percent gains in 2022 (vs 2021) to 6.3 percent in 2023. What does it all mean? Apparently, Americans are being more mindful of how they spend. That said, menswear merchants reported mixed 4th quarter results, with some claiming their best December ever, and others blaming the weather for
disappointing sales. According to most of the clothing merchants we profile in this issue (page 22), price increases are a growing concern, even for those who have not yet felt the pain. Says David Perlis, with three stores in Louisiana, “Our clothing customers have certainly noticed the price increases, especially at our top levels. We’ve seen MTM customers notice as well. I think the consumer is being more purposeful with purchases. It’s hard to say whether this is sticker-shock, or simply that we’re settling back into a more predictable cycle after pent-up demand inspired excessive purchasing in 2022. Whichever the case, our maintained markup percentage declines as ticket prices increase…” On the other hand, Tim Sitzmann at Mr. B’s in Iowa is joyfully trading up. “My vision is simple: better, better, better. Our customers have indicated they want quality over price. Our suit prices are currently $1000-$3000. We try to show product they can’t find everywhere else.” Even at Paul Stuart, where virtually all offerings are exclusive, Creative Director Ralph Auriemma is noticing some pushback. “There are always excuses for raising prices: the war, energy costs, fewer sheep… Today’s prices are crazy and of course it affects us. But I’m not trading down or compromising quality in any way. In the end, it would come back to haunt us. Our customers expect, and deserve, the best.”
In November, a group of Style Section editors at the Times gathered to discuss the impact of price increases on luxury goods. The panel concluded that “while luxury fashion brands can get away with steep price increases, 2023 prices were out of control.” According to data company EDITED, average luxury prices are up 25 percent since 2019, caused by inflation, the pandemic, and the impact of wars. The panel also noted that sales are down at most big luxury businesses, due to the aspirational middle class stepping away. Luca Solca, analyst for Bernstein, added that the top 5 percent of luxury clients now account for 40%+ of sales for most luxury brands. As wealth inequality increases globally, luxury brands are doubling down on a smaller slice of their clientele. And all this while credit card debt tops $1 trillion, according to the Federal Reserve. Influencer Bryan Yambau suggested that “this might be a good time for brands to lower prices.” Vanessa Friedman pointed out that “People think because something is more expensive, it has more value.” And Guy Trebay backs this up: “Subjects shown two identical cashmere sweaters, one far more expensive, inevitably choose the costlier. We don’t think; we act irrationally.” Someone named Daniel Kahneman won a Noble Prize for this theory. Here’s to luxury customers acting irrationally! PHOTO: ROSE CALLAHAN
A HEADLINE IN The New York Times business section on December 27 seemed the first good news in ages: Holiday Spending Rises, Defying Fears of a Decline. According to the write-up, retail sales from Nov 1 to Dec 24 increased 3.1 percent over the same period last year, with spending in restaurants up 7.8 percent and apparel increasing
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IN THIS COLUMN, MR’S contributing writer
Douglas Hand—partner at the fashion law firm HBA LLP and professor of fashion law at NYU School of Law—answers readers’ legal questions. Q. Any online shopper today is aware of how quickly after runway shows the knock-offs appear, often at a fraction of the designer price. How is this legal? Aren’t original designs somehow protected? A. Copyright law stems from the provision in the U.S. Constitution that states that Congress shall have the power to “promote the Progress of Science and useful Arts, by securing for limited times to Authors and Inventors the exclusive Right to their respective Writings and Discoveries.” Of course, copyright law does not only protect “writings,” but many other types of artworks. Fashion and clothing design would presume to be protected under that reasoning. After all, what qualifies more as art than the ingenious works created by designers to clothe the human body, countless numbers of which are featured in art museums? But U.S. copyright law has a largely different view of whether fashion designs are protectible art under the law. The design of clothing, as a rule, is considered a “useful article” that has an “intrinsic utilitarian function,” and useful articles are not afforded protection under copyright law. Therefore, the particular shape and cut of fashion designs are rarely considered to be protectible under copyright law. It is only where an element of a piece of clothing is applied to the clothing and
separable from it that the element would not be considered a useful article. In that case, the applied element may be subject to copyright protection. A curious and, for most fashion designers, vexing distinction. The most common application of this rule is where there are pictorial or graphical elements printed on the fabric of a fashion design (most often on items like T shirts and hoodies). Those elements are not the
arrangements of stripes, shapes, and colors. As unsatisfying to fashion designers as it is, the applicable test for protectability is whether a design element (1) can be seen as two- or three-dimensional works of art separate from the fashion item itself; and (2) qualifies as a protectable pictorial, graphic, or sculptural work either on its own or fixed in some other tangible medium. This “separability test” essentially looks at whether the artwork can conceptually,
unprotectible design of the clothing, but are instead applied to the useful article much the same way that a protectible painting is applied to a useful article such as a blank canvas. However, the difficulty that fabric designers sometimes face is a claim that their works are not sufficiently original to merit copyright protection. Copyright law only protects artwork that originates from a particular artist and therefore does not protect common patterns, such as polka dots, checkerboard, or houndstooth. Fabric designers bringing copyright claims are often accused of copying their works from public domain sources, rendering them indistinguishable from other
or physically, be separated from the fashion item and stand alone as an independent work of art. Most historically great fashion designs would not meet this standard – much to the consternation of designers. Perhaps this accounts for how often the fashion cycle changes and, of course, this low level of protection gives consumers ample versions of the same design from which to choose. Send your fashion law questions for Douglas to dhand@hballp.com.
PHOTO: GLADSON
L E G A L M AT T E R S
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FORECAST
BY MICHAEL MACKO
IS THE STADIUM TUNNEL THE NEW MENSWEAR RUNWAY?
During the opening moments of a recent NFL pre-game show, the anchors were discussing three players who all showed up for their games in different colors of a Denim Tears jacket and jeans. Two things jumped out to me: One, that this was being treated as a fashion faux pas—akin to three actresses showing up on the red carpet in the same dress—and two, how the hell do these sportscasters all know about a sportswear brand, founded in 2019, that a lot of people in menswear still don’t know? The tunnel walk, when players enter arenas and stadiums before competitions, has become a regular part of sports programming, inspired several Instagram accounts, connected athletes and fans, helped attract lucrative sponsorships, and highlighted the causes they support. One of those Instagrams, @leaguefits, has over a million followers and features a weekly roundup of stadium tunnel walks and the occasional coach and courtside NBA fan.
Another account, @morethanstats, has been covering where sports and fashion intersect since 2011, with more than 72 thousand followers. When we look at the timeline of the sports-meets-fashion obsession, notable moments include 2005 when NBA commissioner David Stern enacted a “casual business attire” dress code for players to wear to and from games, the 2012 NBA playoffs postgame press conferences when Russell Westbrook went viral for the outfits he wore (which included eyeglass frames sans lenses), and 2018 when LeBron James gifted Thom Browne suits to all of his Cleveland Cavaliers teammates. Perhaps we have to go back 49 years to 1974 when Joe Namath, the first athlete fashion plate, was photographed in the Jets locker room in flared denim, velour shirt, aviators, gold chains, Nike Cortez sneakers, and a knit cap. Perhaps the most surprising thing is that, minus the obvious and now out of touch fur coat, his look would be considered very cool today.
PHOTOS: GETTY
Some of the NFL/ Fashion players who have helped make the tunnel the new runway. Left to right, LeBron James, Damar Hamlin, Joe Namath, and Russell Westbrook.
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RAFFI FOREVER a way of life.
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THE RETURN OF THE BALACLAVA
The Balaclava first appeared in the 1880s, during the Crimean War. To keep warm in the frigid Russian weather, British soldiers were sent head and face coverings made by women and girls back in the U.K. who often aided in war efforts by providing hand-knits to soldiers. The coverings then took on the name of the now Ukranian town where the battle was fought. The balaclava, with its one large opening for eyes, nose, and mouth, evolved into the ski mask, which covers more of the face and features three smaller openings for each appendage. Both went on to become infamous as coverings for criminal activities and political resistance such as the Zapatista uprising in Mexico, where the coverings were not just a way for the militants to conceal their identities, but they also became a symbol of their collectivity. Then in 2011, the performance art group, Pussy Riot, put a spin on the balaclava’s Russian roots by wearing brightly-colored, ski-mask style balaclavas to retain their anonymity while performing songs about feminism, LGBT rights, and their President Vladimir Putin. Even in Wes Anderson’s 2009 flick, Fantastic Mr. Fox, the animals wear balaclavas, which they refer to as “bandit hats” when confronting farmers who are destroying their homes. There are only two reasons to wear a balaclava or ski mask, and that is to either keep your face warm or disguise it. Since most of the world does not see freezing temperatures for most of the year, the coverings have evolved into being used more to hide the face for both the nefarious as well as for some, a form of self-protection from the ever-evolving issue of surveillance and facial recognition. Due to their
renewed popularity, the city of Philadelphia can now fine people for wearing balaclavas or ski masks in some public spaces, and those wearing them in parks, schools, daycare centers, transit, and cityowned buildings may be fined $250. In the fashion world, the balaclava has been spotted on the recent runways of Loewe, Rick Owens, and Kenzo and ultimately the faces of some famous men in the past few winter seasons, such as ASAP Rocky, Timothée Chalamet, Jared Leto, and Justin Bieber. To probe more into the balaclava’s comeback I called up the most knowledgeable fashion scholar that I know, Dr. Valerie Steele, the Director and Chief Curator of the Museum at The Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City, to ask her to take on its return. She said, “Whenever we see a trend like this, it’s always a perfect storm of partially related causes. People have gotten comfortable covering their faces and wearing masks, because of Covid.” Dr. Steele further explained that, given the historical context of the balaclava and it’s being worn for criminal and political activities, “one of the aspects is also what I call the ‘Charisma of Evil’, where for perverse reasons, evil is perceived as more interesting and engaging than goodness. A little bit of an evil thing, can be perceived as sexy. After all, the dandy is ‘the dark prince of elegance.’” She also cited that since the ’80s people love anything that makes them look sporty, and many classic balaclavas—with the one large opening—can be easily converted into a neck gaiter or hat, further pushing it into the athleisure category. So whether you want to appeal to a customer’s inner bad-boy or just offer him a new (again), cold weather accessory the balaclava will have you covered for AW/24.
PHOTO: DRAKE’S
FORECAST
BUGATCHI DOUBLES DOWN ON PRINTS FOR AW/24
Bugatchi, a brand known for its amazing shirts—especially in its proprietary OoohCotton® range—has made the shirt essentially twice as good by announcing a new double-sided version, which features a unique contrasting print on both sides of the performance fabric. Unlike most other performance fabrics, the OoohCotton shirt is composed of 92% premium USA cotton, which helps give this fabric its unparalleled 8-way stretch. The versatile and cutting-edge yarns are knit into a lightweight, double-mercerized quality. This process enhances both the feel and the sheen of the fabric in addition to moisture wicking, wrinkle resistance, and thermal comfort allowing for naturally easing evaporation and keeping the skin at a constant body temperature. Cecile Revah, CEO of Bugatchi said, “The addition of the doublesided OoohCotton shirt not only reiterates our brand’s commitment to craftsmanship, but reinforces our dedication to incorporating the latest technology into our products. We have received great feedback from our wholesale partners who look forward to rolling out this launch with us in July.” The double-sided shirt will be in stores for the AW/24 season and will retail for US $199.00, a short-sleeve version will also be offered and will retail for US $179.00. For more information contact Richard Gualtieri at richardg@bugatchi.com. See bugatchi.com for more information.
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FOOTWEAR
Nothing defines a man more than the shoes he wears. That said, just as the right bottle of wine can turn a good meal into a great one, a well chosen pair of socks can transform shoes and boots, allowing your customer to envision new ways of wearing them. BY MICHAEL MACKO Anonymousism
DiBianco
Chup
Zegna X TheElder Statesman
Geox
Calezonia
Florsheim SunniSunni
Brooks Brothers
J&M Collection
American Trench
Kapital
Santoni
Barbour
Desmond & Dempsey
Marc Nolan
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TROUSERS
Giorgio Armani
Isaia
Zegna
Canali
THE BOTTOMS MARKET IS RIPE FOR CHANGE, AND LOOSER SILHOUETTES ARE ARRIVING RIGHT ON TIME. BY JOHN RUSSEL JONES athletic or relaxed fits that we might associate with this coming trend. years, menswear is due for a change. Thom Retailers, though, seem ready for a Browne, king of the shrunken suit, released breath of fresh air. his first collection in 2005, the same year Says Alan Gibeley of Giblees I started at MR as its fashion director. in Danvers, MA, “Jeans I watched that skinnier, shorter continue to have great sell silhouette roll in, and by the time I throughs, especially since left the magazine eight years later, it our customers want to was the standard. Now it’s 2024 and wear them with their new the pendulum has been swinging soft-shoulder sport coats. the other way, to a fuller silhouette, Even at luxury prices for the last few seasons. As the first (Jacob Cohen at $495 to images from Milan fashion week $550 retail, for example), rolled in, it’s clear that it’s time for jeans are doing well. Basic a new model. The wider, almost dress pants have been a pajama-like silhouettes we saw out struggle, but corporate of Italy are evocative of voluminous casual dress pants have been cuts from earlier decades but seem growing, especially if the birthed from Covid lockdown’s “allpant has stretch, contrast sweats, all-the-time,” comfort-first details, heavy pic stitching, wardrobe. etc. The best-selling fabrics Of course, it takes a little while blend comfort stretch for runway and street trends to with a high percentage of make their way to mainstream natural fiber. These items retail, but after writing about the breathe, drape better, and denim market just a few months last longer.” ago, it seemed clear that the five“Our pant business is pocket jeans model—very often flat,” admits Jason Novosel done up in non-denim fabrics—was of Toggery in Nantucket, king of the new professional dress MA. “Same goes for code. These are traditionally sold in a Lardini denim. Denim is a fairly straight or relaxed-straight fit, not the skinny fit that so dominated the contemporary new classification for us, and our guy likes market for a while, and certainly not in the a straight fit rather than slim/skinny. As for
IF A FASHION CYCLE lasts around 20
pants, we introduced PennBilt last spring, a well-made, straight fit chino. Going into fall ’24 market, we’ll be looking for a more traditional fitting pant.” Finally, David Levy of Levys in Nashville, TN, says, “Pant business has been better this season, led by casual fabrics from Brax in multiple colors. Also travel pants have blown out: Clients want more performance and fewer wrinkles. Dress flannels have been good again. I look forward to reviewing new models at the Chicago Collective.” It would seem the days of a classic trouser in black, gray, brown or taupe may be returning, but we counter that, given men’s newfound penchant for buying clothes that span events—from the office to the home office to the weekend—it would be best to approach this category with a different mindset. For those customers pairing their soft shoulder sport coats with jeans, why not add a pair of relaxed trousers to the sale? They could be in flannel, jersey or any soft drapey fabric, or even have a pleat to add some swagger. Depending on the customer, they don’t even have to scrape the floor or billow like sails. David Sweedler at Zanella anticipates that “non-solid solid” pants will come into play for next season; from textured twills to nail-heads, to neater plaids and checks. He cautions against stores giving in to what he calls the ‘slingshot effect,’ though, going to extremes on any of these patterns. “Base the buy in core,” he says, “then sprinkle in the right amount of fashion.”
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C O N V E R S AT I O N S
BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN ALESSIO NANNI JOINED THE ITALIAN TRADE AGENCY (ITA) AS ITS HEAD OF FASHION AND BEAUTY LAST OCTOBER. WE WONDERED HOW THINGS WERE GOING. MR. NANNI, HOW DO YOU LIKE NEW YORK CITY, SO FAR?
New York is the mirror of the whole world; you can find whatever you’re looking for within seconds. You can choose who you’re going to be each day and become that person. New Yorkers are welcoming, and the cultural offerings are attractive and extensive. So far, I can tell you that Indochine is my favorite restaurant. The West Village is a feast for the eyes! Regarding museums, I’ve not yet had enough time for visiting, but I love contemporary art and the Guggenheim Museum is amazing! Concerning stores, I cannot choose just one, but SoHo is my favorite neighborhood for shopping! The only thing that’s disappointed me: not even New York is exempt from the wave of virtual communication that distances us from real and conscious social exchange.
MOST AMERICAN CONSUMERS ARE FAMILIAR WITH THE BIG FASHION LABELS OUT OF ITALY, BUT FEW KNOW THE FAMILYOWNED ARTISAN BRANDS THAT OFFER BEAUTIFUL PRODUCT, OFTEN PRICED UNDER THE WELL-KNOWN BRANDS. WHAT’S THE BEST WAY TO BUILD THESE BRANDS IN AMERICA?
This is the real challenge of our office. In fact, we’re already talking about Made in Italy in
HOW WILL A WORLD AT WAR IMPACT PRICES OUT OF ITALY? WHAT CHALLENGES ARE ITALIAN MANUFACTURERS NOW FACING?
The war factor is an element that not only changes our human and social connections but also negatively affects the world economy, at least for those businesses that benefit from a peaceful and globalized world. The emergency triggered by the attack on Israel risks exploding the energy situation, with consequent price increases for raw material prices weighing on production costs. WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE IN SARTORIAL STYLE BETWEEN AMERICAN AND ITALIAN MEN? WHAT SPECIFIC ITEM OF CLOTHING WILL BE YOUR NEXT PERSONAL PURCHASE?
FROM LEISURE TO BUSINESS: WHAT ARE ITA’S CURRENT GOALS? WHAT ARE SOME OF THE EVENTS YOU HAVE PLANNED FOR THE MENSWEAR SEGMENT IN 2024?
As you know, we’re about to participate in the February edition of Chicago Collective, a mandatory event for Made in Italy companies. We believed in the Chicago Collective right from its start and we’ve followed its impressive growth. Another venture for the first part of the year: we’re implementing training sessions aimed at enhancing companies’ knowledge of social media tools. We’re also conducting photo sessions, focusing on products from our small and medium-sized companies.
known labels. In the coming months, we will be promoting all the souls that make Made in Italy unique. This job is made easier by collaboration with my colleagues, Donatella and Claudia. These are talented women with great experience, perfectly familiar with the dynamics of the market. I feel fortunate to be working with them.
new ways. And in these narratives, we must find the right balance between the creativity of young designers entering the fashion system and the hallmarks of the Italian tradition that values luxury materials and hand craftsmanship. In this balance, consumers will rediscover a manufacturing system at the basis of both well-known brands and lesser-
The Italian style incorporates a total look: footwear, outerwear, knitwear, and accessories combine for a feeling of relaxed elegance. But American “street style” is also iconic, symbolizing an era and an attitude that is slightly rebellious and recognizably modern. My next purchase will be an outfit for work; one can never have enough business attire. I won’t tell you which brand, but you can be sure it will be made-in-Italy!
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TA I L O R E D C L O T H I N G
G N I H T : O L C TOP CHANTS MER
L L I T S LING L SE TS! I SU WITH HYBRID WORKPLACES THE NORM AND CORPORATE DRESS CODES AN ANACHRONISM, HOW ARE SOME MERCHANTS STILL SELLING SO MANY SUITS AND SPORT COATS? HERE, THEY SHARE SOME SECRETS. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
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IT’S BEEN 30+ YEARS since Men’s Wearhouse had the good fortune to hire an aspiring young merchant named Tony Finocchiaro. Starting out on the selling floor, he soon discovered that his real passion is tailored clothing. He now buys clothing for 632 Men’s Wearhouse stores (seven new ones opened Q4 2023) and 109 Moores stores in Canada. “Tony lives and breathes tailored clothing,” observes Tailored Brands’ president John Tighe. “He is an expert swatch picker. He understands trends, fit, and the nuances of construction. He always knows the right styles to highlight and is always looking to give our customers and our stores what they want and need. That could be a perfect fitting garment, the right model, a new color or trend.” Tailored clothing remains the backbone of Men’s Wearhouse’s business, approaching half of total store volume. “2022 was the Year of the Wedding so those record-breaking numbers were hard to beat in 2023,” Tony confides. “But we came close.” In fact, under Tony’s direction, suit business remains strong, outselling sport coats by a ratio of 3:1. “We merchandise on the selling floor by fit (skinny, slim, modern, classic) and, within that, by swatch. We offer a wide breadth of sizes: from 34 up to 60. We also offer MTM in all stores, crafted in our New Bedford, Massachusetts, factory. And since 1999, we’ve had a nice rental program for wedding parties that’s now 20 percent of our clothing business and growing.” Known for value pricing ($300–$600 ticket prices on suits) and good/better/best assortments, Men’s Wearhouse is said to sell
one out of five suits purchased in the U.S. Although most are black, navy, charcoal and “postman blue,” strong-selling colors in 2023 included pink, mint, and cobalt blue in the spring; hunter and burgundy for fall/holiday. Interestingly, Men’s Wearhouse sellers are not on commission, so they don’t push higherpriced goods over more affordable offerings. “We let the customer decide,” says Tony. Apparently, this strategy has worked well in recent seasons, reinforcing camaraderie and team spirit on the selling floor. Clearly, a key competitive advantage for Men’s Wearhouse is controlling its own prices. Most of the brands it carries are exclusive, including Joseph Abboud, Awearness by Kenneth Cole, Pronto Uomo, and Black by Vera Wang. Top selling national brands include Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Nautica, and Paisley & Gray. Of many Men’s Wearhouse charitable investments, Tony is most proud to be part of a partnership with Kenneth Cole (since 2016) that supports veterans causes to the tune of $6.5 million. These services include
Hire Heroes, Canines for Warriors, Fisher House, Help USA, and Semper Fi. Tony also gives back as a trusted leader among his peers, training and developing his team by passing on the knowledge he’s learned over several decades. When not working, he is known to be a devoted husband, father, and grandfather who loves to cook, drink wine and root for his Giants. Sums up vendor and friend Vince Marrone from Paisley & Gray, “Tony is the quintessential merchant and class act. He has immense experience and an innate feel for men’s fashion. He understands cycles and how the past impacts what’s happening today, in color, model, or pattern. He has a great handle on his customers, so he’s able to fill their needs while introducing just the right amount of newness: measured, never too trendy, always in good taste. I especially appreciate his warmth, kindness, and humility as a person. He has tremendous respect for the people he works with and goes out of his way to share his knowledge. You know Tony: he is just a great guy.”
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How was Macy’s tailored clothing business for fall/holiday ’23? What were the successes and the disappointments? Sport coats that transition into spring were delivered in November and were a big win for us. But with an unseasonably warm November and December, topcoats were less in demand than in previous years. Are patterned sport coats selling better than they had been or, is it still mostly solids? Yes. Men today are wearing sport coats both as clothing and as sportswear so small patterns, unsolid solids, work well. The bolder patterns, however, are still a bit intimidating to most men. Solids continue to be an important piece of our apparel business. You had some amazing mentors at Macys early in your career: What do you remember about that time? I had the opportunity to work with some really great mentors during my career here at Macy’s. In our industry, there is always tremendous pressure to get results and Jim Edelman’s favorite saying was, “You’re only as good as your last flash.” Everything we did revolved around getting phenomenal results; we were all so driven! It was a great learning experience that gave me a strong foundation. And, of course, learning from Ronny Wurtzburger at Peerless was an honor. What specifically did you learn? I learned to look at both the big picture and the small details. In order to do this job, you need a combination of a strong financial core and a passion for product. Decisions are always anchored in both the financials and the fashion. You look at the data and see what customers have responded to and then decide if it’s a trend or something so compelling that it should become part of your core. Occasionally,
you find something so fabulous that you need to introduce it, with or without data to support it. That’s where intuition comes in. There is an art and science to this business that delivers the right product for the Macy’s consumer. How has your intuition been lately? What’s on the horizon for fall ’24? We’re bringing in more transitional fabrics and solid bold colors. We’re testing some relaxed, loose-fitting tailoring. Are you still a believer in suit separates over nested suits?
enhancing the imagery on our site. The clothing is photographed on models who are styled head to toe to convey a total look. This outfitting is part of our storewide Style campaign, a big push online and in stores. We set up the whole outfit for our customers, showing them everything they need to look good for where they’re going. We’ve seen a very positive response to this. Your brand mix now tops out at Hugo Boss. Is it time to explore a few more upscale options? We’ve added B by Brooks Brothers and Ted
Absolutely. Finished bottoms are a major hit! And since special occasion customers often come in on Friday for a Saturday wedding, there’s little time for alterations. With distinctly different fits in our various brands, a customer can walk out the door with what’s virtually a custom garment. Yes, this requires that we carry a lot of inventory, but fortunately, between our in-store and online businesses, we have a wide assortment from which he can choose. What’s the difference between what you sell in-store vs. online? What are you doing to improve the online experience? Macy’s was one of the first retailers to invest in an omnichannel model; we’re now
Baker fashion separates to arrive this spring. Will men ever return to business dress codes that mandate wearing suits? I believe dress codes will remain flexible and hybrid; it’s refreshing that there’s now so much diversity in how men dress, both for the office and for special occasions. Back when I started at Macy’s, men wore suits to work every day. Their wardrobes were comprised almost entirely of suits. It’s much more interesting now. Of all your accomplishments at Macys, what are you most proud of? The best part of my job is team development – I just love working with and nurturing future powerhouse merchants.
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Your background? I worked at a high-end country club pro shop through high school. I certainly enjoyed the golf, but also loved helping the members choose new golf apparel. I went to college at Florida State University in Tallahassee. One day, I walked into a store called Nic’s Toggery and started talking with store owner Victor Gavalas. I worked for the Gavalas family for four years of college and was hooked. By my senior year, I knew I wanted to own my own store. Your vision for tailored clothing? Our tailored clothing business has gone from 80 percent suits/20 percent sport coats to 80 percent sport coats/20 percent suits. We’ve always preferred a “softer” shouldered look, so it was easy to introduce unconstructed clothing. Because we’re mostly in Florida (Tampa, Sarasota, plus a custom design studio in Beverly Hills), fabric weight is important. The wool/silk/linen blends from Loro Piana and Gladson have given us lots to choose from. Because of our focus on MTM, our clients seem to be getting younger. Between weddings and a desire to wear something unique, young guys push us every day to think modern. Your thoughts on recent price increases? With inflation being what it is, our clients expect higher price points. I haven’t heard complaints, but I try to show good, better, best in each category so there are options. Although our dollar volume is higher in made-to-measure, our “off-the-rack” clothing sales have greatly increased as more guys purchase sport coats vs. suits. We’re looking more seriously at jersey fabrics for sport coats and interesting shirt jacket styles. The biggest challenge you now face? Convincing people they NEED a new suit or sport coat when tailored clothing is no
longer required. I’ve always said, “If a guy is poorly dressed in a suit, he likely looks even worse in casual clothing.” A jacket can hide lots of shortcomings. Our biggest competition these days is both the big stores (Nordstroms, Neiman’s, etc.) and the brands themselves. Our competitive edge is private label. Who have been your mentors and what have you learned from them? George Schumacher, the designer of Samuelsohn in the ’90s, taught me how to measure, and to understand what customers expect from an industry professional. I spent several hours with industry giants Harry Rosen and Murray Pearlstein (Louis Boston) early in my career: their passion was contagious! One of my closest industry friends is Craig DeLongy (John Craig). Craig has always been open to sharing information. He has great vision and is willing to be a pioneer vs.
over the years: it’s hard to “pass” or “lighten an order” with friends. I love pioneering a line but hate when the brand gets so large that you’re competing against not just other stores but also the brand’s corporate stores and websites. But I love searching for the next great line! I
a follower. I should have been a better student of Victor Gavalas (Nic’s Toggery). Victor can turn his inventory better than anyone I know. Whenever I travel, I always visit stores: Kent Gushner (Boyd’s), John Braeger (Gary’s), Robby and Greg Miller (Miller Bros.), John Carroll (Carroll Custom), and so many others have inspired me. Designer Bob Jensen (Robert Talbott) was very generous with advice early in my career. Ken Giddon (Rothman’s) is one of the smartest guys I know. Your favorite and least favorite parts of your job? I love looking at lines but hate writing the orders. So many sales reps have become friends
love hiring talented sellers who work hard to make your stores great. I hate having to fire people who are there for the paycheck, not to learn and grow. In light of our tenuous economy and an election, will you bring in less inventory upfront? Yes. Turning inventory is how we make money vs. just overall volume. During election years, our clients are more distracted. Sadly, I’ve had to learn to keep my mouth shut on political opinions lately. I’ve become Switzerland thanks to good advice from Glen Taylor at Taylor Richards: you want to win the sale, not the argument.
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THERE ARE FEW merchants in the men’s
business more candid than David Perlis, discussing his challenges as openly as his home runs. A hands-on third-generation merchant with three stores in Louisiana (New Orleans, Mandeville, and Baton Rouge), tailored clothing is about a third of his total store volume. That said, David confides that 2023 clothing sales did not meet 2022’s record levels: suits and made-to-measure were down 10 percent, sport coats up 10 percent, and total tailored down 3 percent. “Relationships with vendors are also challenging these days, especially with so many increasingly focused on direct-toconsumer. Product availability, markdown schedules, and margin shifts are just a few of the key issues,” he relates. Another challenge, David maintains, is attracting great sellers. “Personnel continues to be a challenge for us. We have several veteran employees scaling back or planning retirement. Finding new people with a passion for retail is tough. We’ve had some success, but overall, it’s harder than ever to develop leads for potential staff.” David also believes that increased prices are impacting sales. “Our clothing customers have certainly noticed, especially at our top levels. We’ve seen MTM customers notice as well. I think the consumer is being more purposeful with purchases. It’s hard to say whether this is sticker shock, or simply that we’re settling back into a more predictable cycle after pentup demand inspired excessive purchasing in 2022. Whichever the case, our maintained markup percentage declines as ticket prices increase.” Not helping things: the precarious state of the world. “Election years are always challenging,
more so this time around with politics so emotionally charged. Current world conflicts are likely to further exacerbate the situation, so yes, I am concerned about business in 2024. We do our best to keep politics out of the business, but this gets harder and harder.” Among his mentors, first and foremost is his dad.
“‘Volume is for vanity; profits are for progress’ is one of his favorite expressions that I reflect on regularly in decision making.” David also learns from his Common Threads peer group. “A number of those merchants are role models and trusted confidants. There are also several vendors in the market and businesspeople in our community who inspire me personally and professionally.” Serving on three non profit boards, giving back certainly plays a significant role in his life. “I’ve spent 30 years volunteering for the Fore!Kids Foundation in New Orleans, which has an annual charitable impact of more than $2.5 million to underserved children,” David notes with pride.
Asked to describe himself, David admits that he’s uncomfortable with the question. “I’m generally confident but certainly don’t consider myself an expert or fashion maven. My nature is risk-averse so opening new stores or making major merchandising/personnel changes is uncomfortable for me. ‘Slow and steady wins the race’ is a fair assessment of my business philosophy. That said, I’m proud to lead our third-generation family business into the future. Although spending so much time on business and family precludes most leisure pursuits, I still get to enjoy some of my favorite pastimes: travel, golf, and being a serious foodie!”
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AS A YOUNG MAN, I always enjoyed quality
clothing, always dressed beyond my years, and always dreamed of owning a clothing store. I got my retail jumpstart in Cherokee, Iowa, a small market town. And that was the lifechanging experience that led me to where I am today. My current goal for tailored clothing is to continue to advance the quality of product in our stores. My vision is simple: better, better, better. We don’t wait for market weeks; we shop year-round, constantly searching for new opportunities to upgrade assortments. We keep pursuing better because our customers have indicated they want quality over price. We try to show product they can’t find everywhere else. Mr. B is 10,000 square feet of men’s retail space, 40 percent of which is tailored clothing. (The remaining 60 percent is men’s furnishings, sportswear, and footwear.) Our retail prices on suits currently range from $1,000-$3,000. We don’t charge for alterations on clothing purchased at regular price. We’re blessed to have nine terrific full-time tailors. Ten percent of our business these days is made to measure. We use it as a tool to service customers no matter what their size, shape, or desired details. Tailored clothing continues to drive our business: it performed very well this past fall/ holiday. Our goal at Mr. B is to discover fashion changes in the market and present these early on. We’ve recently seen the growing influence of double-breasted’s, so we’re bringing them in for spring ’24. I always like to emphasize what’s new, be it a general loosening of fit or trousers with pleats. We’re not changing the market; the market is changing us. We’re fortunate to have an amazing visual merchandiser, Jim Spizale. Jim is from a long
line of visual merchandisers; his father and brother were famous for their trade in the Minneapolis area. Jim is constantly changing the look of the store to keep our clients engaged. On the selling floor, we merchandise by brand, and, within each brand, by color. Our top brands include Canali, Samuelsohn, Byron, Stenströms, Peter Millar, Maurizio Baldassari, Santoni, and Magnanni. We definitely have incentives
for our selling team. Competition is everywhere but we feel our biggest competition is with ourselves. We need to keep improving the service we give our customers. Our responsibility (and growth opportunity) is to explain to our customers the quality and value of what they’re purchasing, and to provide information that distinguishes our upscale brands. Among our corporate values is giving back to our community. We’ve had much success with our “$100 for $100” promotion which contributes funds to local charities. Trunk shows and vendor events continue to generate traffic; we thank our vendor reps for being so enthusiastically involved. When it comes to how men will dress in the future, I must admit it’s hard enough to predict
how men will dress for the coming season! But much of the beauty of the menswear industry is its intrinsic camaraderie. When we’re in the market, we’re a small fraternity. We learn a lot from our colleagues, and there’s always something to learn! I learn from my sales reps, my mentors, my sales staff, and most of all from our customers. They tell us what they need and want. It’s all about the customer. So obviously, my favorite part of this business is the people: customers, staff, community. I also love and seek to present the constant change in men’s fashion. Regardless of whether we’re dealing with an election year, a world at war, or a precarious economy, our goal is to turn our inventory and make a profit each season. We’re never bored here at Mr. B.
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“I WAS BORN INTO a retail family,” David
Kositchek asserts proudly. “My great grandfather started the company in 1865; my grandfather and father carried it forward. I joined them in the business when I was about 12. So it would be accurate to say that I grew up in the men’s clothing business, learning the art of retail from them.” At Kositchek’s, tailored clothing rules. Suits and sport coats make up 40 percent of store volume. Of units sold, the ratio of suits to sport coats is 3:2. “In recent months, we’ve expanded our soft coat selection while maintaining our suit and sport coat inventory,” says David. “Since Covid we’ve seen a tremendous resurgence of demand for suits, driven by special occasions. We’ve also seen our customer demographic change significantly: our largest growth is with 18- to 25-year-olds. This age group is getting married and appearing in wedding parties; they’re also starting careers. For both work and occasions, we’ve seen an increase in sport coat and soft coat buying.” According to David, tailored clothing continued strong through fourth quarter, remaining at a 3- to 4-week pick-up calendar. “It’s been mostly solid black, navy, and charcoal with some fancy solids (small tight patterns). Looking forward, we hope to see additional colors and patterns, including more stripes and subtle plaids.” Presentation is key to the store’s success. “Suits and sport coats are always displayed in our windows and internally. Suit inventory is merchandised by size, and then by color within each size. Sport coat inventory is merchandised by sets (run of size) in either our sport coat or sportswear department,
depending on full vs. soft construction. Broken sets are merchandised by size.” Most importantly, while Kositchek’s carries many top clothing brands, these brands do
not define them. “Our customers rely on our talented sales associates to put them in what works best for them, based on the occasion, the fit, the most flattering color, etc. Our mix is constantly changing, so we avoid attaching customers to specific brands.” Another success secret: Kositchek’s offers an extensive size range, especially in big & tall. “Our suits run in Reg and Long to size 60, in XLong to size 52. In sport coats, our Regulars and Longs run to size 58, in XLong to size 52.” Looking into his crystal ball, David predicts that pleated pants and double-breasted coats are surely on the horizon. “But our hope is that the change evolves slowly, and with an eye dropper, so there are no major disappointments. We do all our buying very carefully and find that the more judicious we are, the fewer buying disappointments we deal with.” As for marketing, David explains that it’s done with image in mind and includes direct mail, e-mails, social media, and television. “We’re careful not to overdo any of these. We’re not a promotional store but mini
weekend events have proven successful. We’ll run a Thursday through Saturday event highlighting a product or occasion. Often, we’ll attach a small price incentive to create a sense of urgency.” Interestingly, Kositchek’s does not do any business online. “Our feeling is that what we do in person to provide the best service and shopping experience cannot be duplicated online.” Above all else, David’s success is directly related to his willingness to keep learning. “I’ve never stopped learning,” he explains. “I believe it’s important to listen and be open to suggestions, criticism, and guidance, from those who came before me and from colleagues in the business now.” Looking back on his career, David expresses gratitude. “I realize that so much of the information I use daily to run our company I learned from my grandfather and father. The high standards of quality, service, and integrity that they set for themselves and instilled in me have stayed constant throughout my years in the business.”
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JIM OCKERT OF KHAKI’S OF CARMEL takes his business seriously. Too seriously, some might say, but there’s no denying his passion for men’s clothing and his innate merchandising talent. Now famous for his short, twiceweekly in-store videos showcasing the best of incoming men’s fashion, Jim has become somewhat of a media star. “We started doing these unscripted videos when the store closed during Covid. They’ve taken on a life of their own, mostly because they’re authentic. I’m not selling; I’m not talking down to customers as if I know more. I’m just describing the product in a casual way.” Jim has always found ways to stand out from the crowd, making it his mission to stay at the forefront of visual display. His 12,000 square-foot store on a high traffic corner of Ocean Avenue showcases 75 exquisitely attired mannequins; this past holiday, nine glittering Christmas trees took a full six weeks to decorate. To say he’s obsessed with presentation is quite the understatement. From a family of non-apparel merchants, Jim is third generation, learning much from his parents. “They taught me to know the numbers. Most importantly, they never borrowed money: they were savers who bought their giftware business with cash. Theirs was a very Midwest conservative mentality; I didn’t understand any of that at the time.” A drummer in high school with plans to be a lawyer, Jim moved to the Northwest and took a few retailing jobs: a men’s store, a denim store, Nordstrom. It was at this time that he fell in love with merchandising menswear, derailing his plans for law school. He also fell in love with Connie, who supported him all the way, as she does today. “I always loved tailored clothing: the colors,
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textures, patterns. We moved to Carmel in 1992; a clothing rep had suggested that this upscale coastal town needed a men’s store to dress affluent retirees. It took a few years, but we got it going. And tailored clothing has been our focus from the beginning.” His own best billboard, Jim is impeccably dressed every day: pleated trousers, a DB sport coat, always a tie (never an ordinary tie), leather or suede outerwear… “It’s important to me to dress the part. It lends credibility and builds customer trust.” Although his customers are not yet clamoring for DBs or pleated pants, his best-selling styles are luxury classics with
and vendors who dictate what he should be buying. “We love vendors who let us do our job and buy what we need; we don’t deal with vendors who dictate. I learned from my mom, a highly independent buyer, that one can’t be beholden to one’s vendors. So we create and produce our own styles, going beyond market offerings. We strive to be different; our biggest brand is our own.”
a twist, often his own creations. He sells stuff like cashmere five-pocket pants in nine colors and a huge assortment of 3/8-lined sport coats. “I try to stay on the edge with about 25 percent of our inventory. You can’t be afraid to stick your neck out.” That said, Jim admits that he had a bit more fourth quarter inventory than he should have, acknowledging his obsession with keeping selling floors exciting. He also expresses concern about recent price increases,
Jim maintains that above all else, increased sales are directly related to the enthusiasm of the sellers. “At Khaki’s, we have six sales meetings a week and talk about the customer experience every day. What are our customers looking for? We’re always searching for better ways to do things.” His invaluable advice to the market: “I’d love to see in-stock programs change every couple of years. What’s the point of offering the exact same product over and over?”
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How was your tailored clothing business this fall and how is it broken down by category? Tailored clothing is 40 percent of our total store volume. Of that, sport coats are 60 percent, suits are 40 percent. Our major volume driver, clothing performed very well, especially patterned sport coats. In suits, classics (charcoal, navy, black) were the leaders. Top-selling brands included TailoRed, Hart Schaffner Marx, and Jack Victor. How are you dealing with recent price increases? My take on them is that some are warranted, but some makers might be taking advantage of the situation, increasing prices based on brand recognition. Our customers have not yet complained, but if the trend continues, we might begin to see some price-resistance. Who’s been your mentor in the business and what have you learned? My mentor was my father, Harlan Logan. He was a pioneer in many aspects of the business, and the way he taught me retail was not exactly textbook. One of his greatest lessons was not to judge a person by what he’s wearing when he walks in the door. The guy in jeans and a T-shirt might end up being your best customer, while the guy dressed to the nines might just be looking around. Treating all customers with respect is one of the basic fundamentals of retail. Are you worried about a tough fall ’24 season based on an election year? We always buy for success. Our customers shop in our store because we offer a great selection of merchandise from the brands they like. In my opinion, if your inventory is light, so, too, will be your sales. Make your store stand apart by a strong presentation of trusted brands and by exceptional customer service. If you do those things, people will come, election
year or otherwise. Your favorite and least favorite parts of the job? My favorite is the beginning of each season when new product is coming in. I love merchandising my floor to highlight the new collections. I enjoy the great people I get to work with. My least favorite part is all the time away from family. What’s the biggest risk you’ve taken in business and what did you learn? Back in 2018, we decided to move our
store to a new location that was more than double the size of our previous one. We were coming off a record year, but I had reservations about whether the extra square footage and expense would be worth the move, and how our customers would react. It turned out to be an excellent move: major upgrades to the decor
allow us to better showcase our merchandise. I learned to be less afraid of the unknown. What are the biggest changes you’re making for fall 2024? The most significant change will be a smaller buy in heavy outerwear and an increased buy in lighter weight performance outerwear. For us, the heavier outerwear is weather-driven, bought for need rather than want. Lighter weight outerwear can be either a necessary or an impulse buy, so the turn was much better on the lighter weight pieces. We’re also buying fewer sweaters and more woven sport shirts. Your passions other than retailing? Horse racing. I’ve been a Thoroughbred owner and breeder since 1988, and I race under the name of TEC Racing. My horses race in the U.S. and Canada. It was something I enjoyed with my father, and my daughter and I continue the tradition today in his honor. Section continues on page 45
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CHICAGO IN
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B.R.A.M.
DIS - DESIGN ITALIAN SHOES
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E.FORMICOLA
GALA GLOVES
GRAN SASSO
ISABEL BENENATO
LO.WHITE
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FELISI BAGS AND BELTS
CALABRESE 1924
ADESI CASHMERE
BARMAS
ALTA MODA BELT
CAMICERIA SANNINO
GTA
FEFÉ NAPOLI
ALESSANDRO GHERARDI
GALÀ
EMANUELE MAFFEIS
GALLIA
GUERCILENA 1944 BELVEST
ARCURI TIES
ANGELO ROMA
CASTORI
CORDONE1956
L’IMPERMEABILE
FERRANTE FLY3
ASTORFLEX
IRISH CRONE FIORONI JO GHOST FRAY LENOCI
DI BELLO BY FONTANI
CORTIGIANI
GABO
MALCOM
ANDREA BOSSI ATHISON
FUGATO MAURO BLASI
B.R.A.M.
DIS - DESIGN ITALIAN SHOES
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GALA GLOVES
GRAN SASSO
ISABEL BENENATO
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CHICAGO IN
CHICAGO COLLECTIVE | FEBRUARY 3-6, 2024
The Italian Trade Agency presents 62+ Italian menswear collections, featuring tailored clothing, sportswear, outerwear, denim, footwear, leather goods & accessories. While at the show, don’t forget to visit the ITA lounge; to rest, re-group & refresh!
SALVATORE MARTORANA
SEALUP MILANO 1935 SOZZI MILANO
VOILE BLANCHE
VITALIANO SUPREMA
SILVIO FIORELLO
STEFANO CAU
PLOUMANAC’H
SERÀ FINE SILK
ADESI CASHMERE | 3113
GTA | 5105
ALESSANDRO GHERARDI | 2120
GUERCILENA 1944 | 4099
ALTA MODA BELT | 4095
IRISH CRONE | 4094
ANDREA BOSSI / ITAL WEAR | 5100
ISABEL BENENATO | 5093
ANGELO ROMA | 3123
JO GHOST | 5101
ARCURI TIES | 3111
LENOCI | 4096
ASTORFLEX / WALLY WALKER | 4093
L’IMPERMEABILE /
ATHISON | 5103
ZEROSETTANTA STUDIO | 2104
B.R.A.M. | 5104
LO.WHITE | 4100
BARMAS | 2118
MALCOM | 3125
BELVEST | 2122
MANZONI24 | 2112
CALABRESE 1924 | 2116
MAURO BLASI / SARTORIA PARTENOPEA | 2114
CAMICERIA SANNINO | 5094
MOMA | 4094A
CASTORI | 2108
MONTECHIARO / LORENZONI / IMPULSO | 5099
CORDONE1956 | 2100
MYTHS | 6101
CORTIGIANI | 6105
ORTIGNI 1930 | 3101
DI BELLO BY FONTANI | 4096A
PAOLO ALBIZZATI | 3123
DIS - DESIGN ITALIAN SHOES | 6103
PAOLO VITALE | 3109
E.FORMICOLA | 3099
PASHMERE | 6093
EMANUELE MAFFEIS | 4100A
PASOTTI | 5096
FEFÉ NAPOLI | 2110
PLOUMANAC’H | 2094
FELISI BAGS AND BELTS | 3094
SALVATORE MARTORANA | 6095
FERRANTE | 3123
SALVATORE SORRENTINO | 2126
FIORONI | 2106
SEALUP MILANO 1935 | 3093
FLY3 | 6099
SERÀ FINE SILK | 3103
FRAY | 3100
SILVIO FIORELLO | 3123
FUGATO | 3123
SOZZI MILANO | 3105
GABO | 5106
STEFANO CAU | 5095
GALÀ | 3107
SUPREMA | 2096
GALA GLOVES | 5102
VITALIANO | 3096
GALLIA | 2102
VOILE BLANCHE / CANDICE COOPER /
GRAN SASSO | 2124
FLOWER MOUNTAIN / W6YZ | 3095
CHICAGO IN
CHICAGO COLLECTIVE | FEBRUARY 3-6, 2024
SALVATORE SORRENTINO
MOMA MONTECHIARO
PASHMERE
PAOLO ALBIZZATI MYTHS
PAOLO VITALE
PASOTTI
MANZONI24
ORTIGNI 1930
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CHICAGO IN
CHICAGO COLLECTIVE | FEBRUARY 3-6, 2024
The Italian Trade Agency presents 62+ Italian menswear collections, featuring tailored clothing, sportswear, outerwear, denim, footwear, leather goods & accessories. While at the show, don’t forget to visit the ITA lounge; to rest, re-group & refresh!
SALVATORE MARTORANA
SEALUP MILANO 1935 SOZZI MILANO
VOILE BLANCHE
VITALIANO SUPREMA
SILVIO FIORELLO
STEFANO CAU
PLOUMANAC’H
SERÀ FINE SILK
ADESI CASHMERE | 3113
GTA | 5105
ALESSANDRO GHERARDI | 2120
GUERCILENA 1944 | 4099
ALTA MODA BELT | 4095
IRISH CRONE | 4094
ANDREA BOSSI / ITAL WEAR | 5100
ISABEL BENENATO | 5093
ANGELO ROMA | 3123
JO GHOST | 5101
ARCURI TIES | 3111
LENOCI | 4096
ASTORFLEX / WALLY WALKER | 4093
L’IMPERMEABILE /
ATHISON | 5103
ZEROSETTANTA STUDIO | 2104
B.R.A.M. | 5104
LO.WHITE | 4100
BARMAS | 2118
MALCOM | 3125
BELVEST | 2122
MANZONI24 | 2112
CALABRESE 1924 | 2116
MAURO BLASI / SARTORIA PARTENOPEA | 2114
CAMICERIA SANNINO | 5094
MOMA | 4094A
CASTORI | 2108
MONTECHIARO / LORENZONI / IMPULSO | 5099
CORDONE1956 | 2100
MYTHS | 6101
CORTIGIANI | 6105
ORTIGNI 1930 | 3101
DI BELLO BY FONTANI | 4096A
PAOLO ALBIZZATI | 3123
DIS - DESIGN ITALIAN SHOES | 6103
PAOLO VITALE | 3109
E.FORMICOLA | 3099
PASHMERE | 6093
EMANUELE MAFFEIS | 4100A
PASOTTI | 5096
FEFÉ NAPOLI | 2110
PLOUMANAC’H | 2094
FELISI BAGS AND BELTS | 3094
SALVATORE MARTORANA | 6095
FERRANTE | 3123
SALVATORE SORRENTINO | 2126
FIORONI | 2106
SEALUP MILANO 1935 | 3093
FLY3 | 6099
SERÀ FINE SILK | 3103
FRAY | 3100
SILVIO FIORELLO | 3123
FUGATO | 3123
SOZZI MILANO | 3105
GABO | 5106
STEFANO CAU | 5095
GALÀ | 3107
SUPREMA | 2096
GALA GLOVES | 5102
VITALIANO | 3096
GALLIA | 2102
VOILE BLANCHE / CANDICE COOPER /
GRAN SASSO | 2124
FLOWER MOUNTAIN / W6YZ | 3095
CHICAGO IN
CHICAGO COLLECTIVE | FEBRUARY 3-6, 2024
SALVATORE SORRENTINO
MOMA MONTECHIARO
PASHMERE
PAOLO ALBIZZATI MYTHS
PAOLO VITALE
PASOTTI
MANZONI24
ORTIGNI 1930
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STILL SELLING SUITS!
I CHALLENGE ANYONE who loves fine
menswear to venture into Paul Stuart on Madison Avenue and not be stunned by the plethora of beautiful clothing. The fabrics, the colors, the unexpected combinations: unique, luxurious, truly breathtaking. The guy responsible for this magic is Ralph Auriemma, hired by Cliff Grodd in 2007 to develop a youthful collection for Paul Stuart. Called Phineas Cole, it was to be Paul Stuart’s errant nephew: rooted in tradition but naughtier and edgier. Clearly, Auriemma has nailed it! Muchadmired in industry circles, both here and abroad, he exudes confidence without arrogance. As Paul Stuart’s creative director, he works non-stop, loves what he does, and happily shares his extensive knowledge of fashion history. “I read a lot,” he confides. “So much of what we sell is inspired by the past.” He shows me around the store with endless energy. “All the colors of the sweaters that you see here were dyed for us based on autumn leaves! Sapphire, cranberry, burnt orange: I scooped up leaves, put them in a Ziplock bag and FedExed them to a factory that dyes yarns. We use these colors for solid Shetlands and Fair Isles—all exclusive to us.” He shows me a coral paisley corduroy suit with purple lining, outerwear based on a WWI military officer’s coat, silk eveningwear in vintage art deco patterns. “Every season there’s new,” he notes with pride, adding that his eveningwear and footwear are also sold at Saks, Neiman Marcus, and Nordstrom. Auriemma started his fashion career as a stock boy after high school. “As a kid, I had no interest in anything. I lived with my grandfather in Brooklyn; he was a truck mechanic at the Flatbush Terminal. He insisted that I get a job; when I couldn’t find
one, he put me to work unloading heavy bricks out of train cars. “As a teenager, I needed a suit for a school photo, so my aunt took me to a local men’s store where I picked out a charcoal DB model. The walls of the store were decorated with photos from 1930s movies. I became fascinated with movie stars like Cary Grant and Fred Astaire. I read all about them and fell madly in love with the elegant clothing from that era. That was the beginning. I had found my calling.” Out of high school, Auriemma had numerous retail and wholesale jobs. He worked without pay for a NJ/Philadelphia rep for Tallia and Givenchy, packing bags
We’re both New Yorkers, love the Yankees and Hollywood film stars, are unafraid of hard work and long hours. I stayed with Ralph for nine years and then moved to Paul Stuart, where I created a younger collection with sartorial flair, styles like a one-button peak lapel sport coat with purple deco stripe, slim flat-front trousers, spiffy spread-collar shirts. Today, Phineas Cole is 20 percent of our volume and growing.” Ralph admits the best part of his job is
and cutting swatches. From there, he worked for a store owner who would take him into Manhattan for buying trips. His next job was showroom trainee: His boss would take him to Italy for the fabric shows. He stayed at that job for nine years, then worked with an agent selling Incotex and Borelli. Then came the big time. “Ralph Lauren was looking for someone to develop fabric; the mills had recommended me. I met with Jerry Lauren about 10 times: he liked me but wasn’t sure I was Purple Label material. He wanted me to spend 15 minutes with Ralph. So dressed in my best navy chalk-striped DB suit, I walked into Ralph’s office; two hours later, I had the job. We have so much in common beyond our love for clothing.
visiting the factories. “Creating beautiful product is a joy; selling it is tougher. It’s warm when it’s supposed to be cool and cold when it should be warm. In addition to uncooperative weather, there’s everything else distracting shoppers these days: the news, the wars, the politics, the crime rate. Retailing is not for the faint of heart.” On recent price increases, Auriemma is concerned but not alarmed. “There are always excuses for raising prices: the war, the electricity, fewer sheep…. Today’s prices are crazy, and of course it affects us. But I’m not trading down or compromising quality in any way. In the end, it would come back to haunt us. Our customers expect, and deserve, the best.”
MR MAGAZINE
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SPRING 2024 • COPPLEY.COM
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CHICAGO PREVIEW
WITH ITS CENTRALIZED LOCATION AND NEARLY 450 EXHIBITORS PACKED ONTO ONE (RATHER LARGE) FLOOR, THE CHICAGO COLLECTIVE HAS BEEN A FAVORITE FOR ALMOST 40 YEARS, RENOWNED FOR ITS CONVIVIAL ATMOSPHERE AS MUCH AS FOR SERIOUS ORDER-WRITING. HERE’S OUR QUICK PRIMER ON THE EVENT, TREND GUIDANCE FOR THE AUTUMN/WINTER 2024/25 SEASON, AND SOME FUN FACTS. (DON’T MISS OUR END PAGE, WRITTEN BY NECKWEAR DESIGNER AND CHICAGOAN LEE ALLISON, ABOUT CHI-TOWN’S FASHION HISTORY.)
MR MAGAZINE
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CHICAGO PREVIEW
CHICAGO COLLECTIVE LEADER CREDITS ITS SUCCESS TO LONG-TIME PARTNERS BY SAMANTHA LANDE WHILE THE CHICAGO COLLECTIVE has worked hard to earn its spot as the premiere menswear show in North America (with a waitlist that would make any trade show producer envious), its beginnings were humble. “Years ago, I would lose 25-35% of the show each season and now our turnover is almost zero, which is unheard of in the trade show industry—I’m very proud of that,” says Bruce Schedler, head of the show and our MR 2023 People’s Choice winner [Editor’s note, see MR July 2023, page 56]. Chicago Collective has been at the Merchandise Mart since the mid-1980s, and is now positively bursting at its bespoke tailored seams, featuring 435 exhibitors over four days (Feb 3-6). Eight vendors will debut at the February show (and we’ve all heard about that lengthy waiting list). New this year, an extra half day to the start of the show. “We think buyers will have more time to maximize their assortments and I hope they’ll check out brands they didn’t have time to consider before,” he says. After all, Schedler approximates about 2,000 retailers, way up from pre-Covid numbers. Of course, we can’t forget all of the fun events and activations that round out the show. You won’t be able to miss the enormous Colmar Snowman greeting you in front of the mart, and the brand’s distributor, Throat Threads, will also be hosting the opening night party at Marshall’s Landing in the Mart. There’s another highly anticipated special event—to be announced— planned for Sunday. The Collective’s VP of sales Danielle Owen has created a new exhibitor area next to Polo Ralph Lauren featuring brands that will also be supporting the new Chicago Collective’s Women’s show in March [see sidebar], plus plenty of brand-sponsored happy hours and coffee breaks. MR’s editor-in-chief, Karen Alberg, will also be moderating a panel for Gladson New York.
A LITTLE HELP FROM MY FRIENDS
You may not know it from the packed Mart floors and celebratory events, but there were years when the livelihood of the show was in question. “Years ago, we were barely holding on, so I had rep meetings before each show and it felt like I was their sales manager asking them to get out there with me and sell this thing, and they did!” recalls Schedler. “We supported each other in a huge way; the reps simply refused to let the show go under.”
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Those reps and sales managers are too numerous to name but included former MR publisher Stu Nifoussi, Bob Garey, Richard Binder, Fred Derring, Anthony and Dana, the guys at the Puritan Shop, Lisa Slesinger, Ronnie Hanna, Gary Halpern, Jeff Simon, Scott Cornell, Keith Kinkade, and Craig De Longy. Bruce also credits the success of the show to the brands that remained loyal, from the smaller less attended shows through today’s standing-room-only crowds. “Barbour is like a partner to us, Peerless, Bugatchi, Jack Victor, 7 Diamonds, Remo Tulliani, Tommy Bahama, PYA, Dion, 34 Heritage, Coppley, Stenstrom’s, Left Coast-T, Ballin, Johnston & Murphy, Rian, and Tom at Tri-Luxe, Peter Millar, David Donahue, Robert Graham, Black Dog 8, Brax and, many others played big roles early on in our success.” Of course, there are many more people who have been integral to the show’s success. “See the problem with listing people? Now I will get calls from all those I didn’t mention,” he jokes. INTERNATIONAL FLAIR
Schedler knew the times were changing for the better when he drew interest from some of the International fashion stalwarts. “We worked hard to just be the underdog show, the ‘little brother’ to NYC, and we enjoyed that position actually. We were proud to be a solid number two to the undisputed fashion capital of the world,” explains Schedler. “I mean how could we possibly beat them? We started getting calls from elite brands and retailers, then the Italian Trade Agency (ITA) checked the show out and joined us. We sensed that a major shift was happening.” Those international partnerships with organizations like the ITA and the United Kingdom Fashion & Textile Association (UKFT) have been incredible, from hosting happy hours, to a great Monday evening social event, and a fun and well-attended networking event on the show floor. But beyond the fun, “we value these partnerships, and they certainly add cachet to the show,” says Schedler, “Italian passion is real, we love working with them and we find them to be very creative and committed to their mission of exposing great Italian brands, craftsmanship and artistry to the North American retailers attending our show.” The Brits don’t disappoint either, with Paul Alger and the UKFT supporting British brands. Plus, who doesn’t love a gin and tonic happy hour, one of the events it is hosting this year? “I love English anything,” says Schedler, “so it’s very special to have their affiliation. Our buyer base has embraced these groups, and we now have many great brands contacting us from throughout the country. It’s very special to have its affiliation.” Schedler is always working with the Merchandise Mart on ways to expand the trade show floor and the hope is that he can accommodate many more brands— including those from Italy and the UK—in the future. COMMUNITY AT THE CORE
Although the show has gotten bigger, the heart and soul of it remains intimate and congenial. Schedler, who has been in the position of ‘will this fail or succeed’ before, knows that to maintain the show’s position it has to be extremely efficient, all while maintaining a sense of community and purpose. Buyers have so many more choices and opportunities today and everyone is looking for a simple yet enjoyable way to go to market. “ Buyers are our lifeblood, and they need to feel they are as important to us and our exhibitors, as their own customers are to them.”
FEMME FORWARD
It’s no surprise that requests for a Chicago Collective Women’s Edition came in response to the success of the men’s show. In March 2023, the team launched its first women’s event, catering to the Midwest region (predominantly specialty store boutiques from the surrounding 11 states), with the goal of becoming a national event. Women’s Edition will also run twice a year. The event will make its 2024 debut from March 3-5 on the 7th floor of The Mart and feature around 250 exhibitors, with a second planned for October. On the apparel side, keep a lookout for big brands like Kerri Rosenthal, Vince, AG Jeans, Barbour, For Love and Lemons, Zadig & Voltaire, Slvrlake, Varley, Suncoo Paris, Simkhai, James Perse, and Frances Valentine. Accessories and footwear is a growing area of the show, with brands like Jenny Bird, Linda Richards, ROAM, and Cozy Earth exhibiting this March, with the hope that footwear will become a focal point in the future. Expect the vibrant community feel that Bruce Schedler, Monique Kielar, Danielle Owen, and the entire Chicago team work so hard to achieve with the men’s show. There’s an opening night party for buyers and exhibitors to connect, plus coffee, breakfast, lunch, and beloved happy hours. You’ll see quite a few familiar faces from the men’s show with over 50 brands crossing-over to the women’s show including: 7Diamonds, 7 for All Mankind, Bridge & Burn, Outerknown, DL1961, Vineyard Vines, Shoe the Bear, Woden, Pendleton, American Needle, Cozy Earth, Barbour, AG Jeans, Jungmaven, Hangers Direct, The Packaging Source, Current/Elliott, People of Leisure, Diadora Heritage, Cuts, Edwin USA, Pig and Hen, Rains, Rhone Apparel, Jsquared Showroom, Ranger Station, Hudson Jeans, Joe’s Jeans, Paige, Voile Blanche, Flower Mountain, Candice Cooper, W6YZ, James Perse, Stance, Madeworn, Vince, Paraboot The Normal Brand, Bread & Boxers, Tommy Bahama, Road to Nowhere, Long Wharf Supply Co., Shwood Eyewear, Umber & Ochre, Retro Brand, Simkhai, deCrease, Frame, Autumn Cashmere, Cotton by Autumn Cashmere, Naadam, M5 Showroom, Faherty Brand, SOL Angeles, Rails, Alashan Cashmere, American Vintage, Flag & Anthem, Lines of Denmark, Clinch Collections, Liverpool, Holebrook of Sweden, Mavi, Mododoc, Geox, Harden, MooRER, Boglioli, Colombo, Gimo’s, Dune, Teleria Zed, and Calo.
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CHICAGO PREVIEW
FALL’S TRENDS SET THE TONE FOR THE WHOLE YEAR: HERE ARE FIVE THAT WE’RE WATCHING CLOSELY. BY SAMANTHA LANDE A NEW SEASON always conjures lists of what’s in, what’s out, and what’s next, and the
Chicago Collective is a great place to seek early 2024 men’s fashion direction. This year expect to see both the raglan sleeve coat and a luxurious take on the short jacket taking center stage. Trousers get wider—pleats are back!—while showing off dressy boots. Sweaters, always important for fall, meet us right on the corner of Preppy and Grunge. Les Deux
Palto
NN07
THE RAGLAN SLEEVE COAT
Last year’s quiet luxury is evolving into decidedly retro Hollywood glamor. We’ll see it again in trousers, but we’re loving outerwear’s return to the long, dressy woven topcoat, especially when shown with raglan sleeves. An exploded Buffalo check, inspired by the 1950s jazz and nightlife scene of New York City, adds a decidedly modern, yet almost outdoorsy touch to this classic twill coat from Les Deux (above, left). Palto (above right) adds adaptability to the classic style, offering water-resistance and zip-out, season-spanning quilted linings, and removable hoods. NN07’s take (right) offers a sophisticated take on Charlie Brown zig-zags, offering a somewhat subversive punk aesthetic.
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TAP Showroom | 307 W 38th Street | 14th floor #1401 | New York City, NY 10018 taps.showroom@gmail.com SEE YOU AT CHICAGO COLLECTIVE @BOOTH 4130!
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CHICAGO PREVIEW 34 Heritage
Zanella
Matinique
THE WIDER LEG AND/OR PLEATED TROUSER
Comfort is key [Editor’s note: see our trouser story, page 18], and men are ready for a little more room. The wider leg offers both a practical and a fashionable solution, while pleats add 1940s (or 1980s, depending on your perspective) panache. Zanella (above left) gets behind the scissor pleat for a clean update to the classic. Matinique (above right)keeps it sleek and modern, while 34 Heritage maintains a plain-front, but still offers that classic Hollywood backstory. Vince
Lords of Harlech
L.B.M.1911
THE SHORT JACKET
This trend has staying power! Think Eisenhower, chore coat, or bomber; but rendered in elegant, luxurious fabrics and worn as an alternative to a blazer or sportcoat. These jackets do double-duty as early season (premarkdown!) outerwear. Vince (left) offers a sophisticated take on the chore coat, while Lords of Harlech (above) celebrates another season’s trend, floral for fall. L.B.M. 1911 (right) shows clean, soft sophistication.
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Cashmere Stretch Precious Fibers A GLADSON EXCLUSIVE
Gladson New York | Chicago Collective | Booth 6121 | www.gladsonltd.com
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CHICAGO PREVIEW
MEET THE MART
Yes, we know you attend the Chicago Collective for fashion, but did you know that The MART edifice itself is iconic in its own right? As you walk the trade show floors, here are five fun facts about this Chicago institution.
THE DRESSY BOOT
A great dress boot hasn’t been this important since the Beatles’ A Hard Day’s Night. Whether it’s a true boot or just a much higher collar, it doesn’t matter if they’re tied, pulled-on, or zippered, we’re seeing much more coverage. It’s like our feet have suddenly gotten modest! Magnanni’s slip-on desert boot (right) offers a lowkey look in soft taupe suede, while Ralph Lauren’s Bryson (below left) expresses materials blocking, another important trend for the season. Trickers’ Bookbinder Limited (below right) features a high gloss finish typical of shoes from the 1930s.
Magnanni
Trickers Ralph Lauren
Raffi
Alan Paine
Piacenza
WHEN CONSTRUCTED IN THE 1930S, THE MERCHANDISE MART WAS THE BIGGEST BUILDING IN THE WORLD. Marshall Fields and Co. constructed it so wholesalers and retailers could buy all of their wares under one roof, not unlike the nine major trade shows (including the Chicago Collective) it now hosts. It remains the largest privately held commercial building in the United States (now owned by Vornado Realty Trust). DURING WORLD WAR TWO THE BUILDING SERVED AS THE MIDWEST PENTAGON From 1938-1945 it was a wartime hub until the Kennedy family purchased it and returned it to its original purpose of a wholesale showroom. THE EXTERIOR SERVES AS A ROTATING DIGITAL ART EXHIBITION Although you’ll have to wait until the August show to revel in the art (the show is on hiatus in January and February), Art on the Mart is a rotating art show projected on the exterior of the building featuring a variety of artists both locally and from around the world. It’s not to be missed. SUSTAINABILITY IS PARAMOUNT The MART is Gold LEED certified and runs on 100% renewable electricity. They are committed to becoming carbon neutral by 2030.
THE STATEMENT SWEATER
Whether pull-over, cardigan, or vest, the sweater moves to the fore as an important layering piece this season, where preppy meets grunge (again, retro rules). We like styles that can complement your customer’s modern office wardrobe, but that work overtime on the weekend. Raffi’s yummy cashmere Seth (left)modernizes a classic cable-knit. Alan Paine’s Fair Isle slipover, in seven-gauge Nayland Lambswool, lends instant Shetland chic to dress shirts, sport shirts, or even T-shirts! Finally Piacenza’s cardigan (right) has nailed the season’s call for fuzzy comfort in subdued tones, textures, and patterns.
THE MART IS HOME TO CHICAGO’S TECH HUB You’ll still find a ton of design showrooms and trade floor space at the MART but did you know that it’s also home to some of Chicago’s most creative businesses? 1871 and Mater both serve as incubators for innovative start-ups, and are headquartered in the MART.
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OFFICE DRESSING GETS A PALETTE CLEANSER FOR AW/24. PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEFFREY ROSE • STYLING BY MICHAEL MACKO
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On left: Saidou wears a Vince sweater, Taylor Stitch shirt and pants, The North Face scarf, Etnia Barcelona sunglasses and Clarks shoes. On right: Dakota wears a Harris Wharf London jacket and pants, Gobi Cashmere sweater and scarf, Merrell shoes, American Trench socks, and Gllutt hat.
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Dakota wears a Descendant of Thieves quilted jacket and pants, Robert Talbott t-shirt, S.K. Manor Hill shirt, Merrell shoes, American Trench socks, and Gllutt hat.
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Saidou wears a Taylor Stitch jacket, Universal Works pants, Gitman Vintage shirt, Drake’s tie, Billy Kirk bag, Shinola watch, Bombas socks, Charles Tyrwhitt shoes, and Gllutt hat.
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On left: Saidou wears an Alex Mill cardigan, Paisley & Gray turtleneck, Robert Talbott pants, Tartan Blanket Co. scarf, Gllutt hat, American Trench socks, and Marc Nolan shoes. On right: Dakota wears a Gobi Cashmere jacket and aviator cap, Taylor Stitch, shirt, Descendant of Thieves pants, Billy Kirk belt, American Trench socks, Merrell shoes, and Gllutt hat.
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Saidou wears a Jack Victor sport coat, turtleneck and pants, Charles Tyrwhitt scarf, Corgi socks, and Blackstock & Weber shoes.
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Saidou wears a Harris Wharf London jacket, Universal Works pants, Save Khaki United shirt, Tie Bar tie, Ghurka bag, Etnia Barcelona sunglasses, Gllutt hat, and Marc Nolan boots. 62
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Dakota wears a Save Khaki United jacket, pants and shirt, Tie Bar tie, Puebco blanket, Gllutt hat, American Trench socks, and Barbour boots.
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This page: Saidou wears a Bugatchi jacket and pants, Champion sweatshirt, S.K. Manor Hill bag, and Gllutt hat. Opposite page, on left: Saidou wears a Gobi Cashmere jacket and pants, and Gllutt hat. On right: Dakota wears an Oliver Spencer velvet suit, Taylor Stitch, shirt and Billy Kirk bag. Photography by Jeffrey Rose; styling by Michael Macko; grooming by Scott McMahan/Honey Artists; models: Dakota Dickey/Marilyn Agency, Saidou Diallo/Heroes New York; photography assistant: Pablo Calderon-Santiago; styling & production assistant: Kyd Kacani.
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Special thanks to Mast Brothers Chocolate.
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IN STOCK
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ICONICS
https://lookbook.hiltl.de/en
N YC: Ja nua ry 2 0t h-2 2 nd D allas : Ja nua r y 2 7t h-2 9t h Ch icago: Fe b ru ary 3rd-6t h CO NTACT Pau l R . Poole: prpoo l e @mac .co m
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LAST LOOK
A COMPLETELY INCOMPLETE HISTORY OF CHICAGO FASHION AFTER ALL, IT STARTS WITH C-H-I-C! BY LEE ALLISON TRUTH BE TOLD, Chicago has been an important place for fashion for nearly two
centuries, and continues to be so now. And just to prove it, here is a completely incomplete timeline of notable events in the history of Chicago fashion, with the emphasis where it should be…on the clothing. companies and filmmakers in the country, and perhaps the world. Even if they don’t talk, stars like Charlie Chaplin and Gloria Swanson looked glamorous on screen, and audiences wanted to look like the stars. 1920-33: Prohibition. But SURPRISE! people still want to drink, and so gangsters fill the void. Al Capone and plenty of other characters make Chicago synonymous with organized crime, and post-prohibition Hollywood realizes the public can’t get enough of the mobsters, and so a certain well-dressed gangster look is immortalized. 1920-40s: Jazz baby! And Chicago is at the center of it. And with the Jazz Age comes the zoot suit with its high waist, and wide legs, lapels, and shoulders. During the rationing for WWII, the suits are criticized as a wasteful use of wool cloth. In 1942, the War Production Board actually issues restrictions aimed at stopping their sale. 1958: Milliner Roy Halston Frowick, graduate of the School of the Art Institute of Chicago, moves from Chicago to New York, and becomes Halston. Yep, that Halston. 1960-70s: Chicago becomes a hub for the civil rights movement, so cue up brightly colored suits, paisley shirts, and bell-bottoms. Add some platform shoes and PEACE! 2008-16: The Obamas dressed well and looked elegant. Chicago benefits from the attention. 2024: Ta da! Time flies. We’ve arrived at today. (Author’s note -- If anything here is inaccurate – unlikely but possible – blame the editors of MR, not me.)
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4 Above, some scenes from Chicago’s windy— and fiery— past. 1. Montgomery Ward, mail order king. 2. Sears towers above the rest. 3. An ad from HSM’s Mad Men era. 4. Halston, himself. 5. Cab Calloway shows how to wear a zoot suit. 6. The Obamas’ inimitable style.
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PHOTOS:GETTY
1852: Potter Palmer establishes a dry goods store, P. Palmer and Company, on Lake Street. Unlike many stores of the time, it focused on women and encouraged their patronage. It even instituted a “no questions asked” returns policy. (And you thought that was Nordstrom.) 1865: Palmer’s ill health causes him to partner with Marshall Field. 1871: The infamous Chicago Fire destroys much of the city, but a new metropolis quickly rises from the ashes. 1872: Aaron Montgomery Ward invents the mail-order business when he establishes Montgomery Ward. 1881: Marshall Field buys out Palmer and Marshall Field & Company is born. Like P. Palmer and Co., the store focused on women, and went so far as to incorporate that focus into the store’s motto: “Give the lady what she wants.” Apparently, Marshall Field himself—married with two children—took this to heart and had an affair with a woman named Delia Spencer, also married, thus giving at least one lady “what she wanted.” 1887: Hart, Schaffner & Marx is established, making high quality men’s suits. 1893: Sears Roebuck is founded and becomes a formidable competitor to Montgomery Ward. Together they eventually ship out lots of clothing to the rest of the country. Turn of the Century: Chicago is the second largest production center for men’s clothing, accounting for roughly 15% of the nation’s output. 1907: With the establishment of Essanay Studios, Chicago is Hollywood before Hollywood is Hollywood, and soon boasts the greatest number of production
MR MAGAZINE
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