Ktm keith dowman buddhist guide to the kathmandu valley

Page 1

6.3.12

Keith Dowman / Buddhist Guide to the Kathmandu Valle

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, , Kailash: A Journal of Inter-disciplinary Studies, K 1983.

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Contents of A Buddhist Guide [Click on Highighted Entr for Access. Wait for higher numbers to do nload] 1. KIMDOL VIHARA

26. LAKE TAUDAH

2. SWAYAMBHU STUPA 3. SANTIPUR 4. MANJUSRI HILL

27. YANGLESHO 28. PHARPING JOGINI 29. ASURA CAVE

5. VIPASWI'S STUPA

30. DAKSIN KALI

6. NAGARJUNA HILL

31. KATOWA

7. KASYAPA'S STUPA

32. BOUDHANATH

8. BIDJESWORI JOGINIS

33. CHABAHIL STUPA

9. KARNADIP SMASANA

34. GUHJESWORI

10 BURANILKANTHA

35. PASUPATI

11. THAMEL BAHAL

36. TILO/NARO CAVES

12. KATISHIMBHU

37. CHOBAR GORGE

13. ANNAPURNA 14. JANA BAHAL 15. ITUM BAHAL TARA

38. GOKARNA 39. CHEMCHOK 40. MANICURA STHAN

16. MAKHANTOLE ARROW

41. SANKHU JOGINI

17. KALA BHAIRAB

42. CANGU NARAYAN

18. THE GREAT BELL 19. KUMARI PALACE 20. MARU SATTAL

43. DIPANKARA 44. BHAKTAPUR TARA 45. SAKYAMUNI

21. TONDHIKHEL BAJRABIR

46. LOKESWARA

22. BAGDWAR

47. NYISHANG KURTI

23. PATAN GOLDEN TEMPLE

48. CANDISW0RI

24 PATAN MAHABOUDHA

49. NAMO BUDDHA

25. PATAN MINA AND

50. RISHISWORA

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MACHHENDRA Appendi I S noposis of the Gosrnga V akarana Sutra ABBREVIATIONS SK S

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In the neighbourhood of [Ri-bo `Bigs-byed] is a hill called Vulture Peak, and it is said that this is the place where a thousand Buddhas of the bhadrakalpa first generated enlightened mind, and where the woman Jadzima (Bya-rdzima), who built the stupa at Boudha, attained Buddhahood. [LT] To the south-west of Swayambhu is Vulture Peak.... Then 21,000 arhats from Vulture Peak took earth and deposited it beneath the dome of the Stupa." [SK] P

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6.3.12

Keith Dowman / Buddhist Guide to the Kathmandu Valle

N 12 K S

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Keith Dowman / Buddhist Guide to the Kathmandu Valle

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SK S Gosrnga-vyakarana-sutra (gLang-ru lung-bstan-gyi mdo) G S , S S T .A Manjushri-mulatantra, T . When the Buddha was living in Vaisali he prophesied in this manner to Sariputra and Ananda: 'Hereafter, a town called Kusala (dGe-ba), or Liyul, will arise on the frontiers of India. In the Gamodeva Lake is the Ox-horn Prophecy Mountain (Gosrnga Vyakarana Parvata), and in the Gomadeva Lake the Goma Salagandha Stupa will arise. In the middle of the lake will be a thousand petalled lotus, and in the centre of the lotus will be an image of Sakyamuni, while on the petals will be a thousand Bodhisattvas of the Tenth Grade.' Then Sariputra, the chief of the Buddha's retinue, asked him, 'What will be the cause of such an eventuality?' And the Buddha replied, 'The cause will be the thousand emanations consequent upon my parinirvana'. [SK] T L T , It is generally believed that {the Swayambhu Stupa is the Goma Salagandha Stupa that is mentioned in the Gosrnga-vyakarana-sutra (The OxHorn Prophecy Sutra), and that it enshrines the relics of Kasyapa; but since Goma Salagandha is in Khotan (Li-yul) and the relics of Kasyapa are in India, it is difficult to believe these stories. However, the Stupa gives immense blessings. [LT] C - N T . C

T S S : Then after 21,000 arhats from Vulture Peak had taken earth and piled it beneath the dome of the Stupa, Nagarjuna cut off his hair and scattered it about, praying, 'May all kinds of trees grow on this sublime Stupa!' And after many species of tree had grown tall around the Stupa, it became known as 'Sublime Trees' ('Phags-pa Shing-kun). [SK] B S B S ( T - ) S ( ), N S , S (. . www.keithdowman.net/essa s/guide.htm

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18 N

.), T . [CN.]

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SK S : Beneath the Stupa of Swayambhu is a place of the Nagas. About that is a live turtle, and upon the back of the turtle stands the Tree of Life axis (tshogs-shing) which is 7 fathoms (42') in circumference at its root and 42 fathoms (252') in height. In the western lattice of the axis are the self-manifest 5,408 gods. In the cardinal directions are one Magadha measure of the relics of the jina Sakyamuni. The skin of the King Suvarnavarman (gSer-gyi Go-cha), upon which is depicted the mandala of Samvara and the 62 gods, is to be found therein. It is said that the outer, inner and secret fields of syncronicity can be devined therefrom ..... [SK] When the Buddha Sakyamuni was alive King Suvarnavarman was the Stupa's patron. [SK] No king with a name like this can be found in the lists of Newar chronicles. Perhaps the name is derived from the Manjusrimulatantra. T

S

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V T N - - .F , M Z - , ' K - - (1069-1144), T N phyi-dar, , P - ,Y - ( P ) B A , N ' .H N ,K - , G J .T K the parasol hoisted above the Swayambhu caitya on numerous occasions gathered about him many yoginis and ascetic yogins who were residents of Swayambhu and performed ganacakras on many occasions. [BA] T S , R - , T , , T , B . [BA] A S V M B , , T T . T

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Keith Dowman / Buddhist Guide to the Kathmandu Valle

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Keith Dowman / Buddhist Guide to the Kathmandu Valle

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Keith Dowman / Buddhist Guide to the Kathmandu Valle

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, 9/62


6.3.12

Keith Dowman / Buddhist Guide to the Kathmandu Valle

the gubarjus (priests) would not go further as they could not see the way, .I bats as large as kites or hawks came to kill the light. I ghosts, flesh-eating spirits and hungry ghosts came to beg. If you are unable to pacify them they clutch at you. I : If you cannot pacify the snakes by pouring out milk they chase and bind You. Having pacified them you can walk on their bodies. I , the King met Santikar Acarya, who had become a siddha, sitting in samadhi. He was alive with no flesh on his body. He gave the King instruction, and here the King found the mandala, written in the Naga King's blood, which he took out to make rain. I all things were shown unto him. I a hole through which the water of a fathomless lake could be seen {at a third subterranean level . The waters splash and ripple and the wind blows. T K , K .T , K .T 1658 . [T .] In Santapuri there is an entrance to three tunnels: a tunnel to Swayambhu Stupa; a tunnel to the Naga Realm; and a tunnel to the realm of obstructive spirits (bgegs). At present there is a six foot square stone covering the entrance. The sixteen volumes of the Prajnaparamitama written upon lapis lazuli paper with ink of gold from the Jumbu River brought from the Naga Realm by Nagarjuna is to be found in the Thang Baidhari of Kathmandu (Thamel Bahal). [SK] A volume of this 'original' Prajnaparamita-sutra is now to be found in the Thamel Bahal [q.v.]. Nagarjuna was custodian and King Amsuvarman was patron ..... Santapuri was Nagarjuna's place of meditation.... In each of the four cardinal directions of Swayambhu is a treasure trove. These treasure troves were hidden by Nagarjuna for the future restoration of the Stupa.... On the eastern flank of the {Vindhya Mountain is Nagarjuna's meditation cave and the spring he brought forth. [SK] Nagarjuna ('Conqueror of the Nagas') may have been an epithet of Santikar Acarya, who is not mentioned in the Swayambhu Chronicles; or Santikar Acarya may have been a title of Nagarjuna when he was custodian. The Nagarjuna associated with Santipur may or may not be the same siddha who died in his cave on the hill named after him. www.keithdowman.net/essa s/guide.htm

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Santapuri, or Zhi-ba'i grong, is so called because the Vajracarya Santi Deva (God of Peace) called down the god of space (akasa) and pacified him, and when he remained calm and quiet this place was known as Santapuri. The Santapuri temple was founded during the lifetime of the Acarya Ngag-dbang-grags-pa (Vagisvarakirti), this being the power place where the Acarya attained Rainbow Body and where the remains until this day. The temple has two lower levels, and I have heard that in the deepest of the levels is an image and mandala of Sri Kalacakra.... In the environs of Swayambhu many ordinary men and have seen what appears to be a stalking tiger who appears out of nowhere and who does no harm to any creature until it vanishes into nothingness; this is generally believed to be Acarya Ngag-dbang-grags-pa revealing his apparitional form..... It is said that in one of the Swayambhu Puranas, either the extensive one or the version of middle length, is Acarya Ngag-dbang-grags-pa's biography and other fragments concerning his life. However, this Acarya is numbered amongst the Six Doorkeepers, the Sages of Magadha. Later, at the end of his life, he attained Rainbow Body and still remains here {in Santipur until this day. [CN] I

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Keith Dowman / Buddhist Guide to the Kathmandu Valle

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Keith Dowman / Buddhist Guide to the Kathmandu Valle

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Keith Dowman / Buddhist Guide to the Kathmandu Valle

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' ,S (S ), , (G - L ). O B M (M , B B ). H H (H ), M K , V P (?). T .T T . [SK] In accordance with the prophecy of the Bhagavan (given at Vaisali), at the Lake Gomadeva on the frontier of India, Sariputra and Ananda (Vaisravana in the original Sutra) arising from their thrones, raised their staffs in the air and the lake drained away. Ganapati drained the small amount remaining and then vanished into a rock, and this rock, similar in shape to an elephant, is even now to be seen in the vicinity of the Bungadeo Temple in Patan. [SK] T M V B S ' ,A , V [vide R .279]. M ' [vide infra]. T

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Keith Dowman / Buddhist Guide to the Kathmandu Valle

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Keith Dowman / Buddhist Guide to the Kathmandu Valle

, U .H . [CN] In each of the cardinal directions of Swayambhu is a treasure trove hidden by the Master Nagarjuna for the later restoration of the Stupa .... {When the axis of the Swayambhu Stupa broke the King Parthivendra Malla (reigned 1680-1688) received a communication from Ganes and in front of the Kasyapa Stupa he discovered gold treasure. [SK] K

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Keith Dowman / Buddhist Guide to the Kathmandu Valle

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Keith Dowman / Buddhist Guide to the Kathmandu Valle

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TOP 10. BURANILAKANTHA L- (S N (T O B -T ): O -H M (N , .I H N

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B N V : Where the stream widens into a pond there is a stone image of a man formed naturally in the rock. It is sky blue in colour and aits face is covered with a saffron shawl. It appears to be sleeping on its back {protected by the hoods of a nine-headed cobra. [LT] The Raja (Jaya Pratap Malla, reigned 1641-1684) had a dream in which he was told by Budha Nilakantha that he or any of his descendants or successors who went to visit Nilkantha would die. Hence, from that time, no Raja ever visits Budha Nilakantha. [Wright p. 215] W ' S ' (kantha) ( ): Oh Maharaj, in the Satya Yuga the thirty three crores of gods, devatas, and daityas, churned the ocean, and first of all there came out the Uncharisrava, which Indra took, saying that it was his luck. After the horse came out Lakshmi, whom Vishnu took. Then came out the Kalakuta poison, and began to destroy the world. The thirty-three crores of devatas began to pray to Mahadeva, who alone was able to destroy the power of the poison. Mahadeva, being easily propitiated, appeared, and asked what they wanted from him. They replied that the Kalakuta poison was destroying the world and themselves, and they sought protection, and implored it with joined hands and tears in their eyes. Mahadeva said that he would instantly destroy its powers; and so saying, he put it into his mouth, but instead of swallowing it, he kept it in his throat, which became blue from the effects of the poison, and hence Mahadeva is named Nila Kantha. Feeling now very hot he went close to the snowy range of mountains, but the cold there was not sufficient to cool him. He then struck his trisul into the mountain, from which sprung three streams of water, and lay himself down and let the water fall on his head. There (in the Gosain Kund Lake, north of the Kathmandu Valley) lies Sadasiva, who takes away the sins of man, and exempts him from rebirth. [W , .165] I

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Keith Dowman / Buddhist Guide to the Kathmandu Valle

B N B [P. P , Vaisnava Iconology in Nepal, .17].

N TOP

11. THAMEL BAHAL, VIKRAMASILA MAHAVIHARA T

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The sixteen volume Prajnaparamita written upon paper of lapis lazuli with ink of gold from the `Dzam-bu River and brought by Nagarjuna from the Naga Realm is to be found in the Thang Baidhari of Kathmandu. [SK] T P

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Also in Nepal is the Tham Vihara, called the First vihara or the Upper Vihara. Every evening a light glowed upon a stupa {in this vihara , and when Jowo Atisa saw it he asked everyone what it was but received no information until an old woman told him that it was the red powder of the mandala constructed by the Buddha Kasyapa. Jowo Atisa erected a temple in which to worship the stupa. In front of this stupa is a golden image of Sakyamuni called Lord Abhayadana. Indians call this place the Dharmadhatu Vihara. [DS, folio 6b]. A

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. 21/62


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TOP 12. KATISIMBHU S S

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):

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S K

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There is also a stupa {in Kathmandu said to contain the turban of Arya Sariputra. [LT] In front of the {old Kathmandu Place is a gilt copper stupa, the largest of many in Kathmandu, containing the turban of Sariputra and the relics of Kasyapa. [SK] K

S

,

.I S

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, A Swayambhu Chronicles [vide S G 7 .T K 7 17 K K .M L K .

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TOP 13. ANNAPURNA N -

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TOP 14. JANA BAHAL - THE WHITE MACCENDRANATH www.keithdowman.net/essa s/guide.htm

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J J B

): J

B :

( ?) (T

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L .I

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).

The White Lord Jamali (Jo-bo `Ja'-ma-li dkar-po) is one of the Five Exalted Brothers ('Phags-pa mched lnga), and the divine essence of these five Brother divinities is Avalokitesvara. The two Brothers who reside in Patan (AKham and U-Kham) are red in colour while this one is white, so some believe that he is Manjughosa, which is erroneous. [CN] In Kathmandu is the Sandalwood Well (Chandan-gyi khronchu) out of which the Four Exalted Brothers were born, the White Jamali and Bod-thang mgon-po.[SK] T 14 -15 . T long [ 40 .], , E S G

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J M

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(W

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TOP 16. THE MAKHANTOLE STONE ARROW S

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In the middle of the town of Kathmandu there is a stone arrow thrown from the top of the Vindhya Mountain by the Bhagavan, Sariputra and Maudgalyayana that has remained there until this day. [SK] www.keithdowman.net/essa s/guide.htm

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A

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TOP 18. THE GREAT BELL D -

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. TOP 19. KUMARI'S PALACE K 'www.keithdowman.net/essa s/guide.htm

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: 25/62


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D

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-

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EK .T Y [ . .], A [ . .] ,/ I S [ . .] N ,/ A M S , 1000 . [UL .365.] gTsug-la dPal-dge will reveal the treasure of the E Vihara. [UL .621.] Y -

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N .V

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. 28/62


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Some say that the Bod-thang-mgon-po is naturally formed. Others believe that he was constructed by the very hands of the Great Master Nagarjuna, that Nagarjuna made 108 images of Mahakala and that amongst the protectors he appointed to protect the great power places such as Vajrasana (Bodh Gaya), this was the one he appointed to protect the Swayambhu Stupa. However he was formed, this amazing image possessed of superior powers of conferring grace is a climactic attainment. This protector of the Innate (sahaja), this Root Protector, is made of black stone. He has one face and two hands holding a skull-cup (kapala) of blood and a curved-bladed knife (kartika) at his heart. He carries a trident (katvanga) on his shoulder, corpse. A long time ago, an invading army of Muslims came to they were unable to complete his destruction, and in this land of Nepal the Muslim doctrines never made any inroads. However, there was slight damage done to the image at that time, to some parts of the corpse, to Mahakali's body and to the tip of his nose.... This image previously sat on the top of the Phullado Hill (Pulchowk) close to Patan, and because it came flying through the sky {to this spot it became known as 'The Arrival in Tibetan Fields' (Bod-thang du phebs). Concerning the name Bod-thang (Tibetan Fields), the site of the temple was the spot to which the King Amsuvarman sent his daughter, Bhrkuti (Bal-mo bza' khri-btsun); the Tibetan messengers, some ministers of the Dharmaraj Srong-btsan sGam-po and others, waited for her there; thus 'Tibetan Fields'. [CN]. T A

-

Red Annals, 14 C , (O G - ) S G B B J - M-D .T N J L C [sDeb-ther-dmar-po .16 ].

T

B A

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N ). H , , ,

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12 rGyal-rabs gsal-ba'i me-long (15 .) - Mani bka'-bum ( ). T (T , A B (K ). 5 .A E

, T

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T

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617, B A ' 617 , 620/21, 16 T . T 634/5 [vide rGyal rabs gsalba'i me'-long .46 ] B ' T ( P 635), ' , C W K , 642. I B N , L N [vide M , Newar Art .19, R .186]. N S ' T 642 J [vide G C , The White Annals, .65], I A K A ' .I B N , A ' 634/5 C ; , N S , C A .T B A ' T 634/5 A .A A ' , .B T B ' T . A www.keithdowman.net/essa s/guide.htm

S S

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1349 30/62


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N

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TOP 22. BAGDWAR S B

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. www.keithdowman.net/essa s/guide.htm

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TOP 23. THE GOLDEN TEMPLE OF PATAN Y B B

-

-

(P

S

): S B

: .

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B

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)

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-

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B

:

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I (gandola) .T M O B is a replica of Vajrasana [LT]. I 17 (1601) A . A S

C .

Concerning the Vajrasan gandola structure (of Mahaboudha), an ancestor of the contemporary (i.e. 18th c.) Pandit Ramanda, a Brahmin, in order to increase his power and wealth, actually went to the Holy Land of Vajrasan (Bodh Gaya), and after he returned from his pilgrimage he built a replica of the Vajrasan gandola (dri gtsang khang). The blessed stone image of Buddha brought from Vajrasan itself resides here in the mode of enlightenment (byang-chub-sems-po).[CN] TOP 25. MINANATH AND MACCHENDRANATH OF PATAN Y -

A( B

U-

:M N D ).

M ' (G -

: -

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In Nepal is the sublime Bu-kham temple in which is an image of Avalokitesvara, naturally formed in sandalwood, as a five year old boy, red in colour. This sublime Bu-kham is well known in India while in Tibet the Sublime Swayambhunath is extolled. [DS, folio 6a]. www.keithdowman.net/essa s/guide.htm

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U-

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K K M

'B N ; N H G G

[LT]. T , V .H ), .H ,

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Some Tibetan chronicles, based on Newari oral legend, say that Bu-kham is actually 'Bu-kham ('bu - insect) since this Jowo was born from light emanating from the heart of Akham in the form of an insect. [CN] This legend probably indicates the greater antiquity of the A-kham cult, a supposition supported by Newar legend and the fact that Minanath is Macchendranath's Guru. A-kham is Padma Nrtyanath, who takes central place in the torana above the main door of the temple, and he is Jatadhari Lokesvara indicating Avalokitesvara as a siddha. His image is a small red Padmapani Lokesvara, standing with his right hand in varada-mudra and his left hand holding a white lotus [vide JL]. M

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V

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.U 33/62


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I

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.

TOP 26. LAKE TAUDAH T (K

P

(K

L

): T '

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K

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L T [CN]

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N T . The pond was so deep, and the water so black, that it was frightful to look at. It was shaded by trees, large fish played in it, and it was covered with watefowl. The Nag told the Baid to shut his eyes, and in a moment he jumped with him into the water and they arrived at the durbar of Nag-raj in Patalpuri. The walls of the palace were of gold, the windows of diamond, the rafters and beams of sapphires, the pillars of topaz adorned with rubies. The darkness of the subterranean palace was dispelled by the light of large jewels in the heads of the Nagas. They entered the palace, and saw the Nagini, sitting on a throne studded with jewels of several sorts, shaded by three umbrellas of white diamonds, one above the other, and surrounded by beautiful Naginis. Karkotak, assuming his proper from, took the Baid by the hand, and gave him a seat near the throne." T B N ' ' , . [W

.179].

TOP www.keithdowman.net/essa s/guide.htm

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27. YANGLESHO Y

- -

:S ,

N

S

: S .

B

P M

Yanglesho in the Kathmandu Valley is the power place of the Great Master Padma `Byung-gnas (Padma Sambhava), and the name of this place is blown on the wind to all, to the wise and the ignorant in the valley of Tibet, the Land of Snow Mountains. And since the Buddhists of Nepal accept this as the power place of the Uddiyana vajracarya Padmakara, they are in agreement with the Tibetans. The Hindus believe that this is the residence of Sesa Narayana, both the Naga 'Remainder' (kLu lhag-ma-can) and Visnu. However, the Gubarjus have only this legendary indication of the place which relates to the Buddhist ethos: When the Great Master Padma 'Byung-gnas himself was sitting at this place in samadhi, through the Naga's magical devices a plethora of venomous snakes appeared, hanging down from above; disturbed by this temptation, the Guru, with a fixed gaze, struck the Naga on the crown of his head with a vajrakila (rdo-rje phur-ba) and turned the menacing serpents into stone. Even today on the crag {overhanging the temple many serpentine shapes are to be seen struggling downwards. From the trace of the kila on the crown of the head of the central snake, water emerges at certain auspicious moments. The Hindus have many legends, supposedly edifying, which I have listened to with reservations in my mind; amongst the stories of Parasuram, dGar-sta(?) Ramana (=Vamana?) one (or two?) of the ten incarnations of Visnu, the emergence of water from the trace of the kila is said to be the emergence (of milk?) from the cow which gives milk eternally, and so on... The Great Master Padma 'Byung-gnas, having previously practised various ascetic yogas in cremation grounds, took to wandering, and at that time he received initiation from Vajra Varahi, attaining the Knowledge Holder of Spiritual Maturity (rnam-par-smin-pa'i rig-'dzin) and gaining victory over the 'devil of corporeality'. At the cave of Maratika (Heileshe, east of Okoldunga and south of Mt. Everest) he attained the Knowledge Holder of Immortality (tshe-la dbang-ba'i rig-'dzin), gaining victory over the devil 'Lord of Death'. At Yanglesho he attained the Mahamudra Knowledge Holder (phyag-chen rig-'dzin), gaining victory over the 'devil of emotivity'. At Vajrasan (Bodha Gaya) he attained the Knowledge Holder of Spontaneity (lhun-gyigrub-pa'i rig-'dzin), gaining victory over the 'godling devil'. Amongst these four Knowledge Holder attainments the www.keithdowman.net/essa s/guide.htm

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mastery of Mahamudra is the ultimate, unsurpassable, supreme attainment, and since the Guru achieved it in Yanglesho, this place is of equal significance to Vajrasan {where Sakyamuni attained enlightenment for the Guhyamantra rNying-ma-pa school. [CN] I G

P

'

Y

K 'A

Y

5

C P

; -

, .T

K '- , ( - ) N - N - 'O - (11241192 A.D.), G P ' M K H , Y P , Y : Then the Guru thought to himself, 'Although I have attained the Knowledge Holder of Immortality, there is no advantage unless I attain the Mahamudra Knowledge Holder.' So he came to the meditation cave at Yanglesho between India and the Kathmandu Valley, to the Tree of Generosity that never withers in winter. Here he captivated a highly qualified yogini, called Sakya Devi (Sakya bDe-mo), and began his practice with the Mandala of Glorious Yang-dag's Nine Lamps. Obstacles immediately arose. The Nagas, Raksasas and Sky-Demons conspired to cause a three year drought and famine in Nepal, Tibet and Indian, and plague struck both men and cattle. The appearance of Death provoked Guru Padma to the realisation that he must destroy the power of those demons if he was to attain mahamudra, and giving an ounce of gold dust to his Nepali disciples Jila Jisad and Kun-la ku-bzhi, he sent a plea to his pandita Gurus in India to send the means to achieve the subjection of the obstructing spirits. He was instructed to apply to Prabhahasti, which he did, and he received the text of the Phur-ba Vitotama, which two men could barely carry. Immediately upon the appearance of the text in Yanglesho, the ocean threw up gifts, the earth was suddenly fertile and clouds gathered in the sky. Rain fell upon the parched soil and simultaneously shoots, levels, buds and fruit matured. By eating this fruit both men and cattle were cured of disease and the Kingdom was filled with happiness and laughter. At this time, Guru Padma had a vision of the retinues of both Yang-dag and Phur-ba. Attaining identity with Yang-dag he gained great siddhi, but obstacles arose too; then upon rDo-rje Phur-ba's entourage's manifestation all obstacles disappeared. Then practising their combined rites (Yang-dag phur-ba 'brel-ba) he attained Supreme mahamudra-siddhi. Through that night, at evening, at www.keithdowman.net/essa s/guide.htm

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midnight and before dawn, various spirits came to him offering their life-essence, and he bound them all to pledges to serve as rDo-rje Phur-ba's Logos Protectors (bKa'srung). The Four bSe-mo Sisters, the Four Sho-na-ma Sisters, the Four Remati Sisters and the families of the Four Bse-yi skyes-bu, the Four Iron Beings (lCags-kyi skyes-bu), and the Four Conch beings (Dung gi skyes bu) wer all bound in this way. Thus Guru Padma overwhelmed the arrogant spirits of the Mandala of Divine Form: he brought all sound and vibration of the Mandala of Mantra under his control; and every mental construct and thought, and all of the five poisons, were rendered void as they arose into the mandala of the True Nature of Mind, into the reality of indeterminate, non-conceptual purity. In the plenum of Innate purity he entered the Unchangeable Mind of Mahamudra. A -

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6.3.12

Keith Dowman / Buddhist Guide to the Kathmandu Valle

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In the vicinity of Yanglesho is the Speaking Varahi of the Indian Pham-thing-pa. [SK] Close to the village of the Indian Pham-thing in a temple is an image of Vajra Yogini. This is Indra Khecari who defeats all opposition. However, her colour needs to be white while this image is red. Drukpa Rimpoche (the 6th `Brug-chen) told me that although this image was mde at a time of Pham-thing-pa it was restored and reconsecrated by a Buddhist Vajracarya at a later date. [CN] P T

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' 38/62


6.3.12

Keith Dowman / Buddhist Guide to the Kathmandu Valle

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In the upper meditation cave of Yanglesho I began the process of becoming aware of Glorious Yang-dag Heruka in order to obtain the relative powers and the ultimate compassion of mahamudra. But the suffering of the people of India and Nepal became such an obstacle to the consummation of my meditation that I begged my Gurus for the means to allay the people's suffering. The text of the Phur-ba Vitotama was sent me. Immediately after it arrived in Nepal the obstacles to my sadhana's progress were removed, and I attained the relative and ultimate compassion of mahamudra. [CL] Guru Padma's practice in Yanglesho is a virtual precis of the Zangs-gling-ma description [vide Yanglesho]. It seems most likely that Guru Padma performed his mahamudra retreat in the Asura Cave, the Upper Cave of Meditation of Yanglesho, as the lower cave near Sesa Narayan Sthan appears geomantically www.keithdowman.net/essa s/guide.htm

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ill-placed for a prolonged retreat, it being entirely shaded by the crags above it and trees around it, and very damp, facing north, never receiving the light of the sun. However, although the texts are ambiguous and in conflict, it should not be dismissed that he practised in the lower cave. This is the place where {Guru Padma accepted the pledges of the Twelve bStan-ma to protect Tibet: with regard to the Tantric rites of the rNying-ma School, on the occasion of protecting the essence of the teaching,/ In coming hither from India/ Or going hence from Nepal,/ In the Asura Cave/ The Master Padma `Byung-gnas/ And gLang-chen dPal-gyi Seng-ge/ Upon the yantra Throne of the Ten Spheres (Zhing-chen snol-pa'i gdan)/ An offering of `red water' (blood) was prepared / And the vajra was turned in the hand;/ The secret initiatory name was uttered/ And they {the demons were absorbed in the level of Vajradhara. Thus the description in ritual terms of the subjection of spirits, which Guru Padma performed not only in Yanglesho but in all parts of Tibet before beginning the building of Samye and attempting to convert the Bon-po Shamans to the Buddhist dharma. This is also the place where in the past many of the greatest of siddhas coming to the from India, Nepal and Tibet on foot would celebrate the Ganacakra rites and other pujas. [CN] T P

P (P G P A , , Yid-kyi mun-sel, .40 .]

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I have heard Drukpa Rimpoche (the 6th `Brug-chen) say that in the eye of a Knowledge Holder there is an entrance to the path which leads to the realm of the Asuras (antigods) from here, so that (by a yogin entering their realm) the Suras and Asuras can be converted. [CN] The Hindus have made this place into a power place of Visnu; but inside the small cave shaped like a lion there is no image of the god whatsoever. However outside the door is a horizontal stone, and carved in that stone are the complete set of Visnu's symbols, his footprints, his cakra and sword etc. [CN] I

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, 40/62


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Keith Dowman / Buddhist Guide to the Kathmandu Valle

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To the south-west of the town of Patan, not far from Thankot, there is a terrifying, predatory image of Ma-gcig `dod-khams dbag-mo (Kamalokesvari, the One Mother Queen of the Sensual Realm) called Daksina Kali. [LT] D

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Keith Dowman / Buddhist Guide to the Kathmandu Valle

32. THE BOUDHNATH STUPA C

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. 42/62


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Keith Dowman / Buddhist Guide to the Kathmandu Valle

It is written that {Jarung Khashor is one of the eight stupas built at the Eight Great Cremation Grounds of the Eight Ma-mo (the Eight mother Goddesses, astamatrka) of Kala Bhairava's retinue when long ago Bhairava was vanquished by Cakrasambara.... Not far from the Stupa is a cremation ground lake called Naga Talapa; on the banks of that is a cremation ground tree; very close to the Stupa is a cremation ground fire, that has remained alight for ever and a day, called Agamatha; and ordinary people have seen clouds of Dakinis from time to time in the vicinity of the Stupa. For these and other reasons this is described as a cremation ground stupa. [LT] Possibly, the tree mentioned above is the bodhivrksa, the peepal tree, outside the main gate of Guhjeswori. Upstream from here is a broad lake bed to the north of the Bagmati. The fire, Agamatha, is perhaps the eternal fire of Sankhu Bajra Jogini. In the Spontaneously Amassed Cremation ground in Nepal dwells the blood-sucking serpent-witch Kasmali. Surrounding the stupa are funereal birds, sepulchral creatures, a cremation ground, ghouls brandishing skeletons, and creatures of the tombs. A flashing cloud of airy regions lifts heaps of men, fire, skins and pulverised organs; a Yaksa vomits tigers, wolves and other wild beats. Here Padma subdues the eight classes of demons, reduces the three worlds, subjugates the three domains, and turns the wheel of dharma for five years. Here he is known as Seng-ge sgra-sgrogs, He Who Teaches with aLion's Roar. [Adapted from UL p.176ff.] We definitely accept that the Protectress who is at the front side (the north side of the Stupa) is Puska, red and gold, sucking up entrails and devouring them, and that she is one of the Eight Ma-mo of this power place. [CN] T P

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Keith Dowman / Buddhist Guide to the Kathmandu Valle

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On the east side of (Jarung Khaqsor) is a stupa enshrining the relics of Rang-rig-ras-pa. [SK] Rang-rig-ras-pa was a highly respected Lama of the bKa'-brgyud-pa school who lived in the 17th century. The Chini Lama believes that he was a Khams-pa, the 5th and last of his line of incarnations and that his remains were interred in the largest of the stupas on the east side. Chini Lama had a vision of Rangrig-ras-pa who instructed him in tantric practice. The Chini Lama also believes that the second largest of the stupas to the east is the reliquary of rTogs-ldan Sakya Sri, the famous Lama active in western Tibet during the last century, who restored the Boudha Stupa at one time. Sakya Sri was the Guru of the late Abu Rimpoche's teacher. TOP 33. CHABAHIL STUPA S R

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. Near Pasupati is a symbol of Uma called Guhjeswari where there is also a spring which has the taste and smell of chung (fermented grain liquor). [LT] I .T U

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TOP 35. PASUPATI L W

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, . In the middle of the town of Gu-lang is Pasupati, the Lord of the Beasts, a self-manifest lingam of Mahesvara with four faces within an extremely beautiful pagoda style temple full of all kinds offerings. To one side of the temple is an iron trisul as high as a two-storied house. Since blood sacrifice is made to both Gutiswari and Pasupati, they are both very terrible gods. It is said that long ago the siddha Jalandharipa (Gorakhnath's Guru) revealing his psychic energy, burst the Pasupati lingam apart through magical means. Unquestionably that was supposed to have occurred here, but I do not know whether the lingam is actually cracked or broken because it is covered and obscured by many ornaments and one is not permitted to go close to it. However, making the necessary enquiries as to whether the Pasupati lingam is the original self-manifest symbol or a substitute, nowadays some people will say that the Siddha's curse destroyed it long ago and that at a certain time it was put into a wooden Buddhist stupa, so that, covered up, it was preserved. Whatever happened, this power place is immensely famous, and each year at a certain time of a certain month (Marg krsna 13) a very large number of Indian people congregate to perform worship (on Mahasivaratri). This custom is still very much alive. [CN] East of Kathmandu and between Kathmandu and Bhaktapur is the village of Debapatan (Deopatan) and this place is numbered among the Twenty Four Great Power Places as the northern spoke of the Wheel of Buddha Body (sKu'i dkyil-`khor) called Grihadebada (Grhadeva), or, as it is more widely known from the Sri Hevajramaharajatantra, Naipala. The Pasupatiswara lingam, which is raised as a symbol for worship of Mahadeva, who is protector of the land of the Nepalis, is called Gu-lang by the Tibetans. [LT] I

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, 47/62


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Keith Dowman / Buddhist Guide to the Kathmandu Valle

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Keith Dowman / Buddhist Guide to the Kathmandu Valle

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Keith Dowman / Buddhist Guide to the Kathmandu Valle

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Keith Dowman / Buddhist Guide to the Kathmandu Valle

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To the south of Boudhnath is.... Orgyen's Throne and his sadhana spring. [SK] The exact location of the Lhun-grubbrtsegs-pa Cremation Ground where Guru Padma of Orgyen was transmogrified into Senge sGra-sgrogs is not known. CN mentions a cremation ground tree with an image of Gorakhnath in its vicinity; this could possibly be the tree near the nath yogins' akara in Sivapuri Kailas, or, alternatively, the tree outside the Che-mchog Temple. It is likely that the Che-mchog shrine is Orgyen's Throne. TOP 40. MANICURA THAN G S M

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. To the north of Sankhu is a place blessed by the Eighty Siddhas. [SK] I have heard that in the neighbourhood of Sankhu is a cave of the Eighty Four Mahasiddhas, and images etc. [LT] On the top of the mountain behind (Sankhu Bajra Jogini) is what is known as Manilinga. The name of the mountain is 'Jewel Pile' (Nor-bu brtsegs-pa'i ri, Manicur Dara), and long ago on this peak the Bodhisattva Manicuda (Nor-bu'i gtsug), after sitting in samadhi for a very long time, cut off his jewelline jata (the protuberance that emerges from a Buddha's fontanelle at enlightenment) on one occasion; this offering turned into stone, and it is now called Manilinga (Jewel Phallus). Further, not far away from the Manilinga is a waterfall called Maniloha (Bloody Jewel), because blood which poured forth from the Bodhisattva's crown when he performed his great act of generosity mingled with the waters there. [CN] www.keithdowman.net/essa s/guide.htm

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Keith Dowman / Buddhist Guide to the Kathmandu Valle

Manicudavadanoddhrta: S

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. Just off the road from gNya'-nang to the Kathmandu Valley is a village called Sankhu Bajra Dakini, which is known to the Hindus as Sankhu Narayani, where there is an image of the venerable Vajra Dakini which gives extraordinarily powerful blessing. [LT] The chief symbol of this power place is the Goddess Ugratara, or Ekajati, inside a pagoda temple with a gilt copper roof. She is red in colour with one face and four arms, two of which hold a skull-cup (kapala) and knife (karpatra) at here heart, and the remaining two hold a sword (khadga) and an utpala lotus. In the upper temple is an identical image of Ugratara in bell metal, in which her left leg is outstretched (in pratyalida?); to the left and right of her is a hollow copper vessel and the head of Bintiraja .... In the upper temple is the loom of the Nepali Princess Bhrkuti .... In another room is a stone Swayambhu Stupa. I know neither the builder nor the dates of these artefacts. Both Buddhists and Hindus have their separate tantras and sadhanas of Ugratara. She is accounted as a superior goddess of wisdom (Shes-rab-kyi lha). The Hindus perform blood sacrifice to her. There is reputed to be an eternal fire and an eternal spring here. [CN] In the Kathmandu Valley Padma Sambhava did pilgrimage to Sankhu where he met Sakya Devi and took here to Yanglesho [p.315]... Vairotsana, leaving Tibet after his dharma was slandered, stopped in Nepal and offered a golden icon to the monastery of Sankhu [p.454]... In the monastery of Sankhu and other Nepali monasteries... and other places round about, {Guru Padma hid one thousand other treasures [p.365]. [UL] According to the Newari tradition, the Sankhu Bajra Jogini is the elder of the four sister yoginis of the Valley - Sankhu Khadga Jogini, Guhjeswori, Pham-thing Jogini and Bidjeswori. Since she is associated with Manicuda [q.v.] she is called Mani Jogini; since she holds a blue utpala lotus in her left hand she is called Nil Tara (?); since the sword is her distinctive emblem, she is popularly known as Khadga Jogini; though www.keithdowman.net/essa s/guide.htm

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she is of serene mien she is Ugratara, Tara in angry mood, according to the Buddhist tantra; because here iconography is commensurate with the Goddess Protectresses and she is a form of Durga (Sankhu Narayani: Narayani is a name of the matrka Vaisnavi or Visnusakti, the Consort of Visnu, i.e. Durga), CN calls her Ekajati. The Hindus also count here amongst the Dasamahavidhya (the ten aspects of the Mother Goddess's wisdom) where she is worshipped as the personification of spiritual hunger. But the Hindu tradition acknowledges that she was originally a Buddhist deity, and even today a Hindu Guru will direct his chela to practise ritual meditation according to the Buddhist liturgy. W S S , .U

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Thus have I heard at one time: the god of gods, the Buddha Sakyamuni, after three innumerable kalpas, through the maturation of his accumulated merit, attained complete and perfect Buddhahood. After he had evolved the beings who assembled in other areas of the lands of Jambudvipa, in the palace of Muni Maharishi in the vicinity of Vaisali, {Bodhisattvas, Sravakas, Nagas, Raksasas, Gandharvas, Kinaras, Kings and their subjects on one occasion gathered. Then at that time, the god of gods, Sakyamuni Buddha, visualised the land of Kusala (dGe-ba) in a future time and brought that vision into reality. Then he addressed the vast assembly, 'Noble Sons, in the north, on the banks of the River Goma, which is near the Ri glang-ru (The OxHorn Mountain) is what is known as the Muni Maharishi Palace, the Stupa Goma Salagandha. Verily, in that place there is essential work to be done, and the time is propitious to go there.' Then, at that time, the god of gods the Buddha Sakyamuni and his vast retinue, arose into the sky.... and departed for the Ox-Horn Mountain. A

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