The Universe of
The Universe of
Cover photo: Manpreet Singh
My first meeting with designer Julie Skarland was in her atelier in Paris in the beginning of the new century. I went there with fashion designer Mona Omar, who is now working for the Norwegian Royal family in Oslo. Mona Omar won the award for best Men´s Wear Collections at ESMOD. Julie Skarland was at that time head of the jury. This presentation in Visuelle Magazine of Julie Skarland is curated by myself, and I want to express how an artist can be successful in different areas of creative activity, without loosing his/her integrity and personal style. Upon assisting at one of Skarland´s fashion shows in Paris I paid special attention to that; not only her label was handwritten, but also the invitation card was drawn by hand. This personal touch shows boldness and confidence and clearly a token of a designer that does not wish to compromise or being tempted to copy other companys graphic style to adjust to a highly competetive business. Further this issue has been designed to promote the use of natural and ecofriendly materials. Special thanks to Editor of Oslo Fashion Week Magazine Tone Skårdal Tobiasson for the contribution on the editorial part of this production. And thousand kisses to Julie Skarland for the honour of letting me interprete her work.
Roger Norheim Editor
Julie Skarland was born in Trondheim, in Norway. After studying art and architecture and obtaining a diploma in dressmaking in Trondheim, she moved to Paris in 1987 and continued her studies at the fashion Studio Berรงot. Even though the French capital has been a source of inspiration and creative freedom, Julie Skarland has remained attached to her Scandinavian origins as can been seen in her collections since 1991.
Her creations are a fusion of her Norwegian roots and Parisian fashion. Simple and practical shapes, rustic and natural materials, the knitwear, and the colours, come from her Norvegian culture, liberated and spiced up with Parisian chic. She produces both ladies’ and men’s fashion wear. There are lots of knits in her collections – always traditionally made – combined with wowen fabrics.Mixtures of fabrics and colours are the ” trade-mark ” of Julie Skarland’s creations. Her designs are sold throughout the world: Japan, France, the USA, Italy, Norway, England etc… In addition to Pret a Porter, Julie Skarland sets her instinct to work creating one-off designs by putting together, taking apart and recovering with painstakingly detailed work. This gives her many artistic talents free rein, using her know-how, manual techniques assemblying knitwear and fabrics, embroidery and beadwork. Her one-off designs are exclusively exhibited and sold in museums and art galleries. Julie Skarland designs, produces and sells her creations in her Boutique/Workshop in the 9th district of Paris at the foot of the Sacre Coeur. 2002/2003: Retrospective Exhibition, 11 years of work in Paris, Nordenfjeldske Kunstindustri Museum, Trondheim, Norway. 2004: Exhibition of one-off designs: 30 one-of-a kind designs, Riis Gallery, Oslo, Norway
anipur Photo: Julie Skarland
Photo: Guri Dahl/Tinagent
Photo: Julie Skarland
â€“ nice long before NICE
Julie Skarland is one of Ingrid Schulerud’s – the Norwegian Prime Minister’s wife’s – favorite designers. When I back in 2006 was granted an exclusive interview with Ingrid, she glowingly espoused Julie Skarland’s design. And that is one picky lady.
”Today ”local” is the new organic, and Julie has moved to India, using local craft-knowledge”
What she did take a shining to was the way she, along with Arne & Carlos, juxtaposed our knitting heritage with other materials, in Julie’s case tulle and silk – modernizing our cultural heritage, something that was longoverdue and if done before, stolen by designers such as Ralph Lauren. Yes, Per Spook had taken on the task, but his interpretations were very much within the confines of knit-wear. The Selbu-rose, an iconic Norwegian knit-design, became her trade-mark, along with a wonderful naïveté where hand-embroidery and a charming princess-crown, both signaling her approach to life and design.
creations are universal in the sense that they fuse local crafts and contrast them with couture quality – though there is no contrast. It is just one of the fashion illusions that local crafts – however often they are the basis for fashion fads – are “just” the inspiration for some of the most sublime fashion expressions. Easy to copy as no-one owns their copy-right, but generally not well-enough understood for what they really have to offer. For example the Norwegian national costume, which is constructed to follow the owner from age 15 till she dies. Genius, no less.
Few do what Julie manages: To give traditional and local crafts a totally But another thing set Julie apart: new expression. It is not a question of Before anyone listened, she spoke stealing, but of enhancing. Reinventing. about ethical and environmentally Without compromising. friendly production. She espoused nice long before there was a NICE. Text: Tone Skårdal Tobiasson Today ”local” is the new organic, and Julie has moved to India, using local Photos: Biplab M. Rahaman, craft-knowledge – ensuring that her Pablo Bartholomew
haramshala photo: Julie Skarland
Kashmir photo: Julie Skarland
he Swan Lake
Bomuldsfabriken Kunsthall 2008 Photo: Manpreet Singh
Photo: Julie Skarland
Beautiful Day Photo:
Tamil Nadu Pondicherry photo: Julie Skarland
Kristofer Kongshaug / Fashion Summit, Copenhagen
It started as a Norwegian and partly crazy idea, born from by a fluke conversation. But it caught on, and suddenly it was much bigger than anyone could imagine – with world-wide links.
Elton & Jacobsen
The idea was launched in 2007 when CEO of Oslo Fashion Week vented his frustration of lack of information on production in relation to ethical and environmental issues on clothing, and I flippantly countered: Well, it can’t be all that difficult for Norwegian designers to follow up; with their small collections they could virtually hand-write an explanation on each item. Half a year later, what had started out as Norwegian Initiative Clean & Ethical was launched in the garden of Copenhagen’s City Hall as a Nordic initiative (practical with n’s that can be exchanged), and with the Danish Fashion Institute, the Swedish Fashion Council, Helsinki Design Week and the Icelandic Fashion Institute as partners. Several things were rapidly achieved. A Nordic Look event in Riga in cooperation with the Nordic Council of Ministers,
Anna Bonnevier Design
hearings in all the Nordic countries resulting in a 10 year plan and a Code of Conduct, the first Fashion Summit in Copenhagen in December 2009 with Her Royal Highness Crown Princess Mary in attendance and the first Nordic design competition featuring sustainable textiles – a stunning fashion show of 20 new gen designers. The web-site nicefashion. org was also launched, the Norwegian contribution which is the tool for designers, companies and consumers to make more ethical and environmentally safe choices. The web-page also hosts a newsletter and a Facebook-group, keeping everyone on their toes. As NICE, which is the main project of the Nordic Fashion Association, now moves forward; there are many activities and plans on the agenda. The NFA is expanding, and will soon include several
other Nordic organizations. NICE has made some international strategic alliances, with among others the RITE Group (Reducing the Impact of Textiles on the Environment), DEFRA (UK’s Department of the Environment, Food and Rural Affairs), CLASS (Creativity, Lifestyle and Sustainable Synergy), Cotton Made in Africa, etc. We are involved in two major research projects with SIFO (the Norwegian Institute for
Consumer Research): Valuing Norwegian Wool and Textile Waste as a Resource. More applications are pending, and more projects looking at local resources as a model for business opportunities will be embarked on. September 1st and 2nd are 2011’s most important dates, when the second Fashion Summit will be held again at Copenhagen’s stunning Opera House. Be there, or be square! www. nicefashion.org keeps you updated.
Text: Tone Skårdal Tobiasson Photo: Nordic Fashion Associaton, Fashion Summit, Copenhagen
ALICE IN WONDERLAND TrĂ¸ndelag Kunstnersenter 1991 Photo: Lars Botten / www.larsbotten.com
â€?Alice in Wonderlandâ€? was the theme of my first exhibition as a fashiondesigner. It was at Trondelag Kunstnersenter in 1991, and at that time I lived in Paris. The more recent show at Nordenfjeldske Kunstindustrimuseum, it was the experience of another wonderland: India, that has inspired me. India Influences you, and after I have lived here for more than 5 years, it has absolutely shaped my mind. India is a challenging country to live in, with the creative chaos, and vibrant energy it forces you to have a flexible mind. India has a very rich culture, be it old or new, its population is a myriad of differences and contrasts, the nature is overwhelming, textiles and crafts sumptuos. This is my source of inspiration, all together with the amazing craftspeople, who helps me to transform my ideas into contemporary design. Julie Skarland New Delhi 2010
Photo: Ken Opprann / www.kenopprann.no
Photos by Pablo Bartholomew
photo: Julie Skarland
FOTO & FASHION
BOMULDSFABRIKEN KUNSTHALL www.bomuldsfabriken.no
Filipstadveien 5, 0250OSLO TEL. +47 22 94 40 40 FAX +47 22 94 40 41 www.galleririis.no e-mail :firstname.lastname@example.org
Galleri Bodøgaard Exhibition with photographer Guri Dahl, associated with Nordland Musikkfestuke. www.bodogaard.no
Pièces uniques Filipstadveien 5, 0250OSLO TEL. +47 22 94 40 40 FAX +47 22 94 40 41 www.galleririis.no e-mail :email@example.com
April 5th-18th May, 2008.
Nov. 1st-Nov. 27th 2007.
Aug. 4th-Sept. 23rd 2007.
April 15th - May 14th 2004.
The Art of Transformation The National museum of Art, Architecture and Design, St. Olavs Plass, 0130-Oslo, Norway www.nasjonalmuseet.no/ index.php/kyss_frosken/ utstilling/julie_skarland
Anita collection Erling Skjalgssonsgate 23B, 0267 Oslo e-mail :firstname.lastname@example.org
Galleri F15 Jeløya-Norway www.gallerif15.no “Les Mariés”
Expo Restrospective 2002-1991 National Museum of Decorative Art Trondheim, Norway www.nkim.museum.no
May 28th - Sept 18th 2005.
April 17th - May 22nd 2004.
Aug. 29th - Sept 10th 2004.
Photo credit: © Stein Jørgensen Photo-Vignette credit: © Terje Holm
Dec. 2002 - March 2003.
Photo: Julie Skarland
www.manpreetphotography.com Contact: +91 98113 24747
Manpreet Singh is based in Delhi, India. He hasa no formal training in photography, however, he explains that he learns while assisting. Manpreet follows simplistic approach towards photography with a touch of glamour. He loves doing portraits & story based projects.
Pablo Bartholomew is a self-taught, Indian photographer. He was awarded first prize by World Press Photo in 1975 for his series on morphine addicts. In 1984, he won the World Press Picture of the Year for his iconic image of the Bhopal Gas Tragedy. As a photojournalist, he documented societies in conflict and transition for over 20 years. His work has been featured in international magazines like Time, Life, National Geographic, Geo, Paris Match, Guardian Observer and exhibited worldwide, most recently at Rencontres dâ€™Arles, France and Rubin Museum of Art, New York.
Biplab Muzibar Rahaman was born in West Bengal, 1st Feb 1970, and now lives in New Delhi. He graduated from Govt. College of Arts and Crafts, 1997 (Textile Designing). Rahaman does painting (based on his own photography) and as well as photography, installation and multimedia. He has done art direction for TV commercials in Calcutta and Mumbai for national and nternational products. Solo exhibitions: 2007, 2008, 2009, 2011 Collections: Private collection in France, England, U.S.A. Canada, Spain, Holland, Germany, Japan,Egypt, India.
Contact: Mail: email@example.com Skype: biplab.muzibar Tel: +91 9910296933 Websites: http://www.flickr.com/photos/biplabmr/ http://biplabmr.wordpress.com/
BIPLAB Muzibar Rahaman
Roger Norheim is the founder and editor of Visuelle Magazine. Bachelor in International Marketing, and Graphic Designer/Art Director.
Tone Skårdal Tobiasson (53) is a freelance free spirit who spent 13 years as journalist, editor, editor-in-chief and publisher of TIQUE, Norway’s pioneering fashion magazine. When she quit she never looked back, and is currently writing books, lecturing, editing choice magazines (Oslo Fashion Week Magazine is one), and ensuring that www.nicefashion. org is up to speed on eco-innovation. She recently has become a wooladdict, and is involved in the project Valuing Norwegian Wool – and Textile Waste as a Resource. Wool – sadly being scrapped world-wide – is something she hopes to ensure a revival of. Common sense, another undervalued and old-fashioned concept, is another of her pet-peeves.
CONTACT PARIS / BIRD- PRODUCTION
OSLO / PALOOKAVILLE
BOTTEN PHOTOGRAPHY AS
15 rue Claude Tillier 75012 Paris France phone:+33 1 42 76 88 60 fax:+33 1 42 76 88 66 firstname.lastname@example.org www.bird-production.com
Schweigaardsgt 34 A 0191 Oslo Norway phone:+47 92 05 18 83 email@example.com www.palookaville.no
Sorgenfrigata 25 0365 Oslo Norway phone:+47 90 54 21 01 firstname.lastname@example.org
photographer ken opprann
Being sustainable in FASHION is abou
Make sure we are being NICE at www.nicefashion.org
ut working with nature, not against it!
ABOUT THE AGENCY Tinagent, established in 1995, is Norway’s first agency for stills photographers. The philosophy behind Tinagent is to represent and support a selected few photographers in a close and long term collaboration. Tinagent has chosen to work with photographers who possess great integrity, who dare cultivate their individuality. One of Tinagent’s strongest assets is rooted in a passion and love for photography itself.
Visit the Flamboyant FASHION BLOG