CAPE'~R:L.§§
.
PUBLIC BEACH ASSESf,tU1J:Nl.REPORT -._!-~ . ;~.f ;..
by
C. Scott .lfarda)f/ty Jr. Doniia.A~Mi1tigan. George R. !t'Thomas' .'p ; ....
Virginia Institq,te{~Ofi;Marine S~i~nce' College of Wi[fia.1ft,'ant!:M{l.~. . ..;-.,
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.
CONTENTS
Page 1.
II.
INTRODUCTION
.
.
Background
B. C.
Limits of Study Area Approach
COASTAL
1
.
1 3 3
and Purpose .
and Methodology
3
SETTING
3 6 8
Shore Morphology and Sediment Transport Beach, Dune, and Nearshore Sediments
Wave Climate
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
BEACH CHARACTERISTICS AND BEHAVIOR
10
A. B.
10 11
Beach and Nearshore Profiles and Their Variability Variability in Shoreline position and Sand Volume 12.
C. IV.
.
.
A.
A. B. C.
III.
.
Shoreline Position Variability Beach,
Anthropogenic
WAVE MODELLING
A. B. C.
RCPWAVE
Dune,
and
Impacts
Nearshore
.
Volume
to Shoreline
.
.
.
Processes
.
.
.
.
.
11 21 25 25
AT CAPE CHARLES Setup
.
Changes
.
Wave Height Distribution and Wave Refraction Littoral Transport Patterns
25 29 36
V.
CONCLUSIONS
39
VI.
RECOMMENDATIONS
39
VII.
REFERENCES.
41
APPENDIX I. Additional References about Littoral Processes and Hydrodynamic Modeling
i
FIGURES Page Figure
1.
site location, Cape Charles, Virginia, Virginia Power station at Yorktown, Nandua Creek and Kiptopeke
2
Figure
2.
Base map of Cape Charles Beach with profile and cell locations
4
.
Figure
3.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
......
.
Typical beach profile demonstrating terminology used in report .
.
.
.
.
.
.
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.
.
.
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.
.
.
5
.
4A. Results of sediment sample analysis for mean size (phi)
7
Figure 4B. Results of sedimentsample analysisfor sorting (phi) .
7
Figure
Profile 2 plot depicting changes at Cape Charles Beach
.. ..
12
7.
Profile 3 plot depicting changes at Cape Charles Beach
..
13
Figure
8.
Profile 4 plot depicting changes at Cape Charles Beach
13
Figure
9.
Profile 5 plot depicting changes at Cape Charles Beach
.. ..
Figure
5.
Profile 1 plot depicting changes at Cape Charles Beach
Figure
6.
Figure
12
14
Figure 10. Profile 6 plot depictingchanges at Cape Charles Beach
.
.
14
Figure 11. Profile 7 plot depictingchanges at Cape Charles Beach
.
.
15
Figure 12.
Profile 8 plot depicting changes at Cape Charles Beach
..
15
Figure 13.
Profile 9 plot depicting changes at Cape Charles Beach
..
16
Figure 14.
Profile 10 plot depicting changes at Cape Charles Beach
..
16
Figure 15.
Profile 11 plot depicting changes at Cape Charles Beach..
17
Figure 16.
Profile 12 plot depicting changes at Cape Charles Beach including the sewage outfall pipe . . . . . . . . . . .
..
17
..
18
Figure
17.
Profile
12 plot depicting
changes
at Cape Charles
excludingthe sewageoutfallpipe .
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Beach .
.
.
Figure 18.
Profile 13 plot depicting changes at Cape Charles Beach
..
18
Figure 19.
Distance of MHW from the baseline
19
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..
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20
Figure 21. Distance to the base of dune from the baseline
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20
Figure 22.
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22
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22
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.
23
Figure 20. Elevationabove MLW of the base of dune
Subaerial beach volume calculations by cells
Figure 23. Subaerialbeach rate of change Figure 24. 25.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Volume of sand in dune area relative to the 1987 nourishment project .
Figure
.
Volume
rate
of
change
.
.
.
in the
ii
.
.
.
dune
.
.
area
.
.
.
.
.
. . . . . . . . . .
23
Figure 26.
Nearshore volume change relative to the 1987 nourishment project
24 24
.
Figure
27.
Volume
Figure
28.
Summary
.
rate of change of volume
.
.
.
.
.
.
in the nearshore
changes
.
region
26
......
Figure 29.
Base map depicting distance to MHW from the baseline
Figure
Shoreline
Figure
30.
and offshore
.
.
(Hb)
for the northwest 32B. Breaking for
the
33A. Regional
wave
(feet) distribution
annual modal wave condition
Figure 32A. Breaking wave height
Figure
.
31A. Breaking wave height (Hb) (feet) distribution for the southwest annual modal wave condition for the west
(Hb)
(feet) distribution
annual modal wave condition
height
northwest
(Hb)
storm
wave vector
(feet) distribution wave
condition
plot for the west modal
.
.
.
34A. Regional
wave vector
plot for the southwest
.
.
28
..
.......
30
.......
30
.......
31
.....
31
condition
Figure 33B. Local wave vector plot for the west modal condition Figure
27
grid at Cape Charles
Beachused in the RCPWAVEevaluation .
Figure 31B. Breaking wave height
Figure
bathymetry
. ..
modal
..
32
. . ..
32
condition
33
Figure 34B. Local wave vector plot for the southwest modal condition
.
33
Figure 35A. Regional wave vector plot for the northwest modal condition
34
Figure 35B. Local wave vector plot for the northwestmodal condition
34
.
Figure 36A. Regional wave vector plot for the northwest storm condition
35
Figure 36B. Local wave vector plot for the northwest storm condition
35
Figure
37A. Gradient
of alongshore
energy
for the west modal condition Figure Figure
Figure
37B. Gradient
of alongshore
energy
flux .
.
(dQ/dy)(cy/hr) .
flux
for the southwestmodal condition .
38A. Gradient
of alongshore
energy
flux
for the northwestmodalcondition.
38B. Gradient for
the
of alongshore northwest
storm
energy
flux
condition
iii
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.....
37
.
.....
37
.
.....
38
.
.....
38
(dQ/dy)(cy/hr) .
.
.
.
.
.
(dQ/dy)(cy/hr) .
.
.
.
.
.
(dQ/dy)(cy/hr) .
.
.
.
.
.
.
TABLES Page Table
1.
Morphologic
features
are located Table
2.
Cape Charles
Table
3.
RCPWAVE
Table
4.
Cape Charles 1987
beach
.
.
.
.
at which .
hindcasted
.
.
.
sediment .
.
.
.
volume
samples .
.
~
.
8
.....
10
wave data by year and direction
..........
input wave conditions
nourishment
.
changes project
iv
relative .
.
.
10
to the .
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
25
I.
INTRODUCTION
A.
Background and Purpose
The Town of Cape Charles is located on the Chesapeake Bay in Northampton County, Virginia (Figure 1). It has the only bays ide commercial harbor and the only public beach on Virginia's Eastern Shore. Cape Charles' Chesapeake Bay waterfront has been a major recreational area since 1900. In fact, the town's sYmbol is the Gazebo that sits on the boardwalk. Until recent construction and beach nourishment efforts, the beach had steadily diminished over the past 30 years. The involvement between the Town of Cape Charles and the Virginia Board for the Development and Conservation of Public Beaches began on February 10, 1982 when Brown and Root, Inc. transferred the title of the public beach to the Town of Cape Charles. The transfer carried the stipulations that the property be renovated, that erosion control improvements be installed, and that the beaches be dedicated for perpetual use as a public park, maintained by Cape Charles for the use and benefit of its citizens and the general public. The existing groin field and bulkhead were in need of repair and erosion had severely reduced the beach. The Cape Charles Critical Area Treatment Project began in the summer of 1982 and involved groin construction and beach nourishment. The groins were constructed 150 feet long and 300 feet apart. The project was planned and coordinated by the Soil Conservation Service as a Resource Conservation and Development Project. The cost of the project totalled $213,200 (Resource Conservation and Development = $106,600; Cape Charles = $53,300; Public Beach Board = $53,000). As a result of damage to the bulkhead from the severe storm of November, 1985, Cape Charles received $136,000 from the State's Special Emergency Assistance Fund in the spring of 1986. The funds were used to repair the bulkhead and boardwalk and for beach nourishment of about 4,000 cubic yards (cy). An additional $25,000 was directly appropriated to Cape Charles by the 1986 Virginia General Assembly for additional bulkhead repairs. In the winter of 1987, the public beach received approximately 87,000 cy of clean, beach quality sand from the Cape Charles Harbor Maintenance Project sponsored by the Norfolk District of the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. The beach was surveyed before and after construction and again in 1992 and 1993. Since the widened beach would impede the drainage of storm water, the Virginia Department of Transportation relocated the storm sewer outfalls to either end of the beach at a cost of $229,000. The Town's portion was $95,000 which was obtained from the General Assembly. The Department of Transportation paid $134,000. The beach nourishment significantly increased the width of the beach. The following winter the finer sand fraction began to blow inland onto the adjacent road and yards as a result of strong northwest winds. In the spring of 1988, the town initiated a project to install sand fencing and dune grasses to control the blowing sand. The project involved planting 30,000 dune plants, using a mixture of American beach grass and "Atlantic" coastal panicgrass. Materials for the project were purchased using $3,500 of town funds and $3,500 of Public Beach Board funds. The Department of Transportation supplied and installed one of the sand fences and the Youth Conservation Corps installed two rows of sand fence and fence islands. Extensive dunes have developed as a result of these efforts. The Virginia Institute of Marine Science (VIMS) of the College of William and Mary, under contract with the Virginia Department of Conservation and Recreation, established a baseline and performed beach surveys in connection with the beach nourishment project in 1988. Vertical aerial
1
Figure
1.
Site location: Cape Charles, VA; Virginia Power Station at Yorktown; Nandua Creek and Kiptopeke.
2
photography was obtained and sediment samples were collected. The objectives of this report are to present the rates and patterns of beach change and to relate those changes to the hydrodynamic forces acting upon the shore zone.
B.
Limits of study Area
The Cape Charles public beach shoreline lies at the south end of the reach defined by the jetty and Cape Charles harbor channel on the south and the mouth of Kings Creek on the north. The public beach area extends from the large north harbor jetty northward for about 2400 feet toward King's Creek (Figure 2). The detailed hydrodynamic modelling efforts were confined to the offshore region to -25 feet mean low water (MLW). C.
Approach and Methodology
Field data and computer models were used to address the aforementioned objectives. Field data analyzed for this report include beach profiles taken on November 2, 1987 (pre-fill), March 15, 1988 (post-fill), April 16, 1992 and April 14, 1993. The datum for vertical control is MLW as established by the u.s. Army Corps of Engineers (1982). Thirteen beach profiles were established along the public beach shoreline at 200 foot (61 m) intervals (Figure 2). The profile origins or benchmarks were established along the top edge of the bulkhead protecting the boardwalk. Data were summarized in terms of the relative position of mean high water (MHW). Profile data were also used to calculate beach and nearshore volume changes over time. Figure 3 gives a pictorial definition of the profile terminology used in this report. All the nearshore data were calculated by taking into account all sand below MLW to the end of each profile. The subaerial beach occurs above MLW and is divided into the beach face and backshore region and the dune region above +5.0 feet. The mean tide range at Cape Charles is 2.4 feet. The hydrodynamic forces acting along the Cape Charles shoreline were evaluated using RCPWAVE, a computer model developed by the u.s. Army Corps of Engineers (Ebersole et al., 1986). This program was modified to run on the VIMS prime 9955 mainframe. RCPWAVE is a linear wave propagation model designed for engineering applications. The model computes changes in wave characteristics that result naturally from refraction, shoaling, and diffraction over complex shoreface topography. To this fundamental lineartheory-based model, VIMS has added routines which employ recently developed understandings of wave bottom boundary layers to estimate wave energy dissipation due to bottom friction. The VIMS revision also estimates waveinduced, longshore, surf zone currents and littoral drift by means of three different theoretical models, two of which incorporate the effects of longshore gradients in breaker height. The reader is referred to Ebersole et al. (1986) and Wright et al. (1987) for a thorough discussion of RCPWAVE, its
use and theory.
.
The model was run using four incident wave conditions (wave height, period, and direction) which were determined from wind/wave hindcast methods across fetch-limited water bodies as developed by Sverdrup, Monk and Breitsnieder (SMB) and modified by Camfield (1977) and then by Kiley (1982). Wind data, obtained from Virginia Power's Yorktown station, were used to develop the incident wave conditions for input into the RCPWAVE program.
II.
COASTAL SETTING A.
Shore Morphology and Sediment Transport
The historic erosion rate for the shore reach from King's Creek to Cape Charles Harbor is about 1.5 ft/yr (Byrne and Anderson, 1978). The accumulation of a large sand fillet on the north side of the harbor channel jetty indicates
3
CA PE CHARLES BEAC-I-I ~/N
P/1£
o l
I {)b J
zoo I
FEEl
k>D ~~I
IICD
SDtJ
MADUl>/II
RMVOl>!-p1-/
AVE:
AVE
Figure
2.
Base map of Cape Charles
Beach with profile
4
and cell locations.
All
f
/
~
Baseline Beach
Subaerial
Nearshore I
Dune or Bulkhead
(Backshore
Berm
) foreshore)
I (
I
Off shore
Berm Crest
MHW
MLW VI
Figure 3.
Typical
beach
profile
demonstrating
terminology
used in the report.
a net southerly transport of sand. The channel jetty is a significant barrier to littoral transport and protrudes about 1200 feet into the Chesapeake Bay. The Cape Charles shoreline is oriented almost north-south with an average fetch to the west of about 23 nautical miles. The public beach currently is bordered on the north by a large storm water outfall pipe that extends about 300 feet from the bulkhead into the bay. The pipe was installed as part of the 1988 beach nourishment project and subsequently has been reinforced with gabions including gabion spurs on either side. Presently the outfall has a local effect on the public beach by partially blocking sand moving south along the shoreline from King's Creek. Also, the outfall and associated spur are causing an alteration in the beach planform to the immediate south. The nearshore region extends from MLW to a distance between 1000 feet and 1200 feet to a depth of -3.0 feet MLW where it goes to -15.0 feet to -20.0 feet over a distance of 1000 feet. These depths are associated with a northsouth running channel that enters Cherry stone Inlet to the north. Beyond the channel there is a broad shoal averaging about -3.0 feet that extends bayward another 4500 feet. This shoal is part of a much larger bar and shoal complex that runs along most of the bay shoreline of the Eastern Shore from Kiptopeke to Nandua Creek.
B.
Beach, Dune, and Nearshore Sediments
Sediment samples were collected after the beach nourishment project (March 1988) and again in April, 1992 and April, 1993 along profiles 3, 7, and 11. The samples were collected at particular morphologic points along the profile rather than the same distance from the baseline (Table 1). The position of the shore features, such as the beach berm. and beach toe, changed significantly between sample dates. The sediment samples were analyzed using the VIMS Rapid Sediment Analyzer (RSA) that determines the grain size distribution of the sand fraction. Figures 4A and 4B (Folk, 1980) are the plots for mean grain size (in phi units and mm) and sorting (in phi units) of the sand fraction. The samples taken at the toe of the beach (TOE) are consistently the coarsest material along the beach. The TOE zone usually is a very narrow step along the shore and is not very representative of the entire profile. Another noticeable trend is the relatively finer and more uniform sand sizes along profile 11 in April, 1993 compared to profiles 3 and 7. This may be due to the lack of beach width in that area as a result of wave reflection from the exposed bulkhead. Except for that, the overall sand size distribution is finer at the base of the dune and nearshore and coarser along the beach berm, high water line and TOE. This is typical of estuarine beaches in the Chesapeake Bay (Hardaway et ai., 1991) The sorting of sediments can be defined as the Inclusive Graphic Standard Deviation (Folk, 1980). The spread of the grain size distribution about the mean defines the concept of sorting. Well sorted sands will have a frequency distribution curve that is sharp peaked and narrow; this means only a few size classes are present (Friedman and Sanders, 1978). Poorly sorted sediments are represented by most size classes in the sample. Analyses of the Cape Charles sediments generally show better sorting with time at profile 11 and poorer sorting at profile 3 with profile 7 being in transition. This coincides with the fining of the sediment at profile 11 and coarsening at profile 3. This trend may support a general southward transport of material with the coarse sands mixing with the fine sands at the south end of the public beach to produce a poorly sorted sediment profile.
6
2.5
0.18
2
0.25
1.5
0.35
........
:c
Q) N U)
(mm)
+J
C Q)
0.50
E '5
A
Q) (f)
c ro Q)
0.5
0.70
0
1.00
..0.5
I
I
I
I
I
3-1
3-2
3-3
3-4
3-5
I
I
I
I
I
I
7-1
7-2
7-3
7-4
7-5
I
I
I
I
I
I
11.40
11-1 11-2 11-3 11-4 11-5
Sample Number
1988 ~
1
1992 -+-
1993
0.8 ........ 0.6
:c
Q. '-" CJ) 0.4 c
Well
:e
0 (f)
0.2
0
-0.2 Very -0.4
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
3-1
3-2
3-3
3-4
3-5
I
7-1
I
I
7-2
7-3
Sample
1
Figure
4.
Resuits
1988 ~
I
I
7-4
7-5
of sediment
7
I
I
I
I
I
IWel1
11-1 11-2 11-3 11-4 11-5
Number
1992 -+-
(phi) and B) sorting.
I
1993
sample analysis
for A) mean
size
B
Table 1.
Morphologic features at which sediment samples are located.
Mar 1988 Feature
Sample
Apr 1992 Feature
Apr 1993 Feature
3-1
Base of Dune
Base of Dune
3-2
On Beach
On Beach
Last HiQh Tide
Last HiQh Tide
Toe of Beach
Toe of Beach
3-5
Offshore
Offshore
7-1
Base of Dune
Base of Dune
7-2
On Beach&Last
7-3
Toe of Beach
Toe of Beach
7-4
Nearshore
Nearshore
7-5
Sandbar
Sandbar
Base of Dune
Base of Dune
Last High Tide
Last High Tide
11-3
Toe of Beach
Toe of Beach
11-4
Offshore
Offshore
11-5
Offshore
Offshore
3-3
High Water
3-4
Toe of Beach
on Beach
11-1 11-2
Last High Tide Swash
C.
High Tide
Sandbar
On Beach&Last
High Tide
Sandbar
Wave Climate
The wave climate acting upon the Cape Charles shoreline is created by winds blowing across, up and down the Chesapeake Bay. Typically, this reach is affected by northwest winds which occur during the late fall to early spring as well as southwest and westerly winds that are most frequent during the early spring to late fall (Rosen, 1978). Waves created by northeast storms do not impact the Cape Charles shoreline directly but usually produce significant storm surge. As the post-storm winds often shift to the northwest, the water level is elevated for a short period of time. This scenario can produce high waves acting on the Cape Charles shoreline. Large waves greater than 3.0 feet entering the reach from the bay are affected initially by the broad shoal. They may briefly reform across the Cherrystone Inlet channel before again shoaling in the nearshore region. The 3.0 ft) are not significantly smaller portions of the wave regime attenuated until they enter the very nearshore region in front of the Cape Charles Public Beach. The relative water elevation and significant wave height will determine what portion of the public beach shore is most impacted in terms of sediment transport. The effects of tidal currents on wave height and direction may be significant at times but wave/current interaction is a complex relationship and is beyond the scope of this report. ÂŤ
In order to develop a wave-climate evaluation, it is necessary to provide RCPWAVE with reasonable incident wave conditions. The best wave input data come from a wave gage placed offshore of the subject site. VIMS has maintained two wave gages in the bay for the past several years.
8
Unfortunately, both deployments are on the west side of the bay and are partially shielded from the northwest, west and southwest components of the wind/wave field to which Cape Charles is exposed. Therefore, it is necessary to estimate the wave climate using available wind data. The nearest applicable wind station is at Yorktown. Although it is on the opposite side of the bay, the wind record is applicable to Cape charles, especially for westerly winds of long duration (> 9 hrs). The wave prediction model was initially developed by Sverdrup and Munk (1947) and revised by Bretschneider (1952, 1958). The current model (known as 5MB) used in this study was further modified by Camfield (1977) and Kiley (1982). It is essentially a shallow water, estuarine, wind-wave prediction model. Preliminary results from Hardaway and Milligan (in prep) show a close correlation between measured and predicted waves at the VIMS' Wolf Trap wave gage (Boon et al., 1992). This same wave prediction procedure, developed during a previous project (Hardaway et al., 1991), was used to produce a set of wave conditions for input into RCPWAVE. The procedure involves the following steps: 1.
Determine effective fetch for three directions. This was accomplished using procedures outlined in the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Shore Protection Manual (1977) for northwest, west and southwest directions from a point 10,500 feet due west of the Cape Charles public beach at -25 feet MLW. This also involves measuring a bathymetric transect across the bay in each of the three subject directions.
2.
Use the above data as input into the 5MB program which provides wave height, period and length for a suite of wind speeds. In this case, wind speeds of 4 to 48 mph were used at 4 mph increments. The results of this step are used to create a data file of wind speeds and associated wave heights and periods for each subject direction.
3.
Wind data for four years, 1987 to 1990, were set up along with the data file from step 2, as input requirements for running the program WINDOWS (Suh, 1990). WINDOWS takes the data file as input parameters from step 2 and matches them with wind speed and direction from each of the subject directions for each year to produce another data file of wave heights, periods and directions through a series of vector-averaging steps. The limiting criterion is that the wind must be blowing from within the assigned sextant window for at least 9 hours. In other words, winds recorded by the wind station must be within, for example, 300 and 3600 for 9 or more hours to qualify for this analysis.
4.
The result of step 3 is a file for each year giving date, hour beginning, wave height, wave period, local wave direction and duration of each qualifying wind event. These data then are mean weighted to provide a weighted mean for wave height, period and direction with duration as the independent variable for each year (Table 2).
5.
Finally, the results of step 4 were mean weighted for each year to produce a weighted mean of wave parameters for the northwest, west and southwest directions (Table 3). The duration of each year was averaged for each direction. These results were used as input into RCPWAVE for annual conditions. One severe northwest storm condition was also modelled. The RCPWAVE analysis will be discussed further in section IV.
9
Table 2.
Cape Charles hindcasted wave data by year and direction
Year
Height
(x)
=
weighted
Period (x) (see)
(x)
(ft)
mean. Angle (x) (deg TN)
Duration (avg) (hrs)
Northwest 1987
2.61
3.17
315.41
16.06
1988
2.18
2.97
321.61
15.54
1989
2.31
2.95
319.36
14.62
1990
2.48
3.17
312.18
15.00
1987
1.35
2.45
268.36
17.53
1988
1.29
2.42
272.80
18.00
1989
1.16
2.28
26980
13.75
1990
1.68
2.74
271.40
13.50
1987
1.35
2.46
223.04
21.06
1988
1.45
2.55
219.32
19.51
1989
1.35
2.46
220.11
22.05
1990
1.55
2.61
221.88
18.50
West
Southwest
Table 3.
RCPWave input wave conditions. Northwest
H (x) T (x) Wave Dir (x) Duration(avg) Weighted
III.
mean
West
Southwest
(ft)
2.38
1.35
1.42
(see)
3.1
2.5
2.5
(deg TN)
152
91
26
15.7
20.3
(hrs)
15.3
(x) by duration.
BEACH CHARACTERISTICS AND BEHAVIOR A.
Beach and Nearshore Profiles and Their Variability
Thirteen profiles were established prior to the beach fill project in 1988. These are shown on Figure 2, the base map. The profiles are 200 feet apart except for profile 12 to profile 13 which is 138 feet. The nearshore shoal region is wider on the south end near the harbor jetty and narrows to the north; the distance the profiles extend reflect this narrowing. The baseline turns at profile 10.
10
Figures 5 to 18 are the 13 plots of each profile for the four surveys. Profile numbers, survey numbers and date are found in figure legends. Profile 12 is shown with and without the outfall. Most of the beach fill was placed between profiles 3 and 13. Profiles 1 to 3 were the area of the existing sand fillet which was adjacent to the harbor jetty and did not need additional fill material. Due to the nature of the emplacement (i.e. by hydraulic dredging), the fill was distributed unevenly along the shore. The bulk of the 87,000 cy was initially placed above MLW. Due to the width of the created beach and backshore, a considerable amount of sand was blown landward across Bay Avenue and onto residential lawns for several months after the beach fill project. Sand fences were installed by the Virginia Department of Transportation in March, 1988 and the backshore area was vegetated with American Beachgrass (Ammophila breviligulata). Within a year, a well vegetated, low dune had developed. The dune system has grown in width and elevation by trapping wind blown sand from the beach area with the combination of beach grasses and fencing. By April, 1992, the dune system had reached elevations between 4 and 5 feet above the initial beach fill. This can be seen in profiles 2 to 9. The dune system is less developed between profiles 10 and 13 where a significant loss of sand has caused the beach to erode to near pre-fill positions, particularly at profiles 10 and 11. In fact, the beach from MLW to about +5.0 MLW has decreased in width along Cape Charles Beach since fill installation. The consequence is that much of the material, the finer sand fraction, has been trapped in the dune system and the remaining beach losses have gone offshore. The nearshore profile data indicate an increase in elevation from 0.5 to 1.5 feet above the pre-fill conditions. As the dune system grew in width and elevation after the fill emplacement, the subaerial beach evolved into two morphologic units, the vegetated dune and the non-vegetated beach. The entire beach profile as of April, 1992 can thus be divided into three sections; the dune, the subaerial beach and the nearshore. The dune area of each profile extends from the bulkhead (baseline) to a point where there is a significant break in slope.
The channelward break in slope is referred to as the base of the dune
(BOD)
and is often accompanied by the channelward edge of the dune vegetation. The subaerial beach is between MLW and the BOD and the nearshore is the region beyond MLW.
B.
Variability in Shoreline Position and Sand Volume 1.
Shoreline Position Variability
The movement of the active beach through time can be depicted by plotting the position of MHW. Figure 19 shows the distance of MHW from the baseline for each profile date. The beach fill is readily identified in the plot of MHW for March, 1988 as it extends bayward well beyond pre-fill conditions. The most obvious trend is the adjustment of the beach fill after installation. Significant losses or landward movement are seen from the postfill position (March, 1988) to April, 1992 between profiles 3 and 13. The position of MHW at profiles 1 and 2 show little change since March, 1988. From April, 1992 to April, 1993, the MHW shoreline continued to adjust landward. This occurs mostly between profiles 7 and 11. The shoreline at profile 11 has eroded to the bulkhead, essentially to the pre-fill position. The elevation of the BOD and its channelward limit vary both temporally and spatially (Figures 20 and 21). From April, 1992 to April, 1993, the BOD became higher in elevation but its position receded slightly at profile 1, between profiles 3 and 7 and between profiles 11 and 13. The BOD was lower at profiles 9 and 10; however, the position of profile 10 receded while the position of profile 9 stayed nearly the same. Profiles 2 and 8 both
11
Cape Charles
Beach
15 Line 1 1 1 1
10
.... lL
Survey 140 150 200 201
2 15 16 14
Date NDV 87 MAR88 APR 92 APR 93
5
C
0 ..... ..... It)
> OJ ..... UJ
,-.
01
"'"
....,
"'"'
HLW
-5
-10 .
0
100
200
300
400
500
5.
Profile
700
800
900
FT
Distance. Figure
600
1 plot depictiag Cape Charles
changes
at Cape Charles
Beach.
Beach
15 Line 2 2 2 2
10
Survey 140 150 200 201
2 15 16 14
Date NOV 87 MAR88 APR 92 APR 93
5 c o
..... ..... It)
> OJ ..... UJ
o
HLW
',.-5
-10
o
100
200
300
400
500
Distance, Figure
6.
Profile
2 plot depicting
600
700
800
900
FT changes
at Cape Charles
Beach.
12
,---
Cape Charles
Beach
.
15
10+.
-..-..-
.\
Line 3 3 3 3
Survey 140 150 200 201
Date 2 NOV87 15 MAR88 16 APR 92 14 APR 93
/'N,\\ :/
I. \ \ I-
11.
......\
c: 0
.
..... ......
ro > (lJ .... W
5ri
-\\\\ \
.,\.\>_'
o
MLW
'-":::,...--:::=,--= --
-5
-10
o
100
200
300
400
7.
Profile
700
900
800
FT
Distance. Figure
600
500
3 plot depicting
changes
at Cape Charles
Beach.
Cape Charles Beach 15 Line
10+
I11.
4 4 4 4
[\.
Survey 140 150 200 201
Date 2 15 16 14
NOV MAR APR APR
87 88 92 93
5
c:
0
..... ......
ro > (lJ ....
w
MLW
0
.-..-..
-5
-10
o
100
200
300
400
500
Distance.
Figure 8.
600
700
800
900
FT
Profile 4 plot depicting changes at Cape Charles Beach. 13
--
Cape Charles
Beach
15....
Line 5 5 5 5
-..-..-
10-+- 路
Survey 140 150 200 201
Date 2 NOV 87 15 MARBB 16 APR 92 14 APR 93
co
.r1 .....
10 > cu
--
UJ
HLW
o
-5
-10
o
100
200
300
Distance.
Figure
9.
Profile
800
900
FT
5 plot depi~ting Cape Charles
700
600
500
400
changes
at
Cape Charles
Beach.
Beach
15 Line 6 6 6 6
10
lLL.
Survey 140 150 200 201
Date 2 NOV B7 15 MARBB 16 APR 92 14 APR 93
5
c: o
.r1 ..... 10 > cu
--
UJ
o
HLW
"..-..--.-........
...... '-'-'--=:''::::.:--
~.-
-5
-10
o
100
200
300
500
400 Distance.
Figure
10.
Profile
700
BOO
900
FT
6 plot depicting
14
600
changes
at Cape Charles
Beach.
Cape Charles Beach 15 ,
-..-..-
10+
Line 7 7 7
Survey 140 150 200
Date 2 NOY B7 15 MARBB 16 APR 92
201
14 APR 93
7
Jt.., "
.I ILL
\
,. "-
5
" \ "\...
c
\--"
0 .... ....
It) > QJ
....
UJ
\\" \L.._ \
." _._......
o
"-
-'
MLW
'.
.. .. .. .. ", "\..
-5
-10
o
100
200
400
300
Distance.
Figure
11.
Profile
7 plot
700
600
500
BOO
900
FT
depicting
Cape Charles
changes
at
Cape Charles
Beach.
Beach
15 Line B 8 8 B
10
l-
LL
Survey 140 150 200 201
Date 2 NOY 87 15 MAR88 16 APR 92 14 APR 93
5
c o
.... .... It) > QJ .... UJ
o
MLW
"--==
"
.-0... .'
",
-5
-10
o
100
200
300
400
500
Distance.
Figure
12.
Profile
8 plot
depicting 15
600
700
800
900
FT changes
at
Cape Charles
Beach.
Cape Charles Beach 15
Line 9 9 9 9
10 ..
Survey 140 150 200 201
Date 2 NOV 87 15 MAR88 16 APR 92 14 APR 93
'\ /, , "
I-
U. c: o .... -<J fO > QJ
.....
UJ
./ ''j
!\
~-J \
5
':0-.. \
\
""----
\ '-......... \ \ ':::
o
........--
=.':':::: ::=..-..-.
MLW .......
",
-5
-10
o
100
200
300
400
500
Distance,
Figure
13.
Profile
700
800
900
FT
9 plot depicting Cape Charles
600
changes
at Cape Charles
Beach.
Beach
15 Line 10 10 10 10
10
I-
U.
Survey 140 150 200 20 1
Date 2 NOV B7 15 MAR88 16 APR 92 14 APR 93
5
c: o ....
-<J fO > QJ ..... UJ
o
MLW
.'" -" "-.
"
",
-5
-10
o
100
200
300
400
500
Distance. Figure
14.
Profile
10 plot depicting
16
600
700
800
900
FT changes
at Cape Charles
Beach.
Cape Charles
Beach
15 Line 11 11 11 11
10
Survey 140 150 200 201
2 15 16 14
Date NOV B7 MARB8 APR 92 APR 93
, IU.
:.\,
c: o
54A\.\ "' \
.r1
,
CtJ > QJ
-
~
.\~\ '~::-:..~
o
\ \,
--
W
'
'- .,
HLW
::--.. ..-" _e._
-.~.., ""'.
-5
-10
o
100
200
300
400 Distance.
Figure
15.
Profile
11 plot
600
500
700
800
900
FT
depicting
changes
at
Cape Charles
Beach.
Cape Charles Beach 15 Line 12 12 12 12
10
IU.
Survey 140 150 200 201
Date 2 NOV B7 15 MAR88 16 APR 92 14 APR 93
5
c: o
.....
, CtJ > QJ
-W
o
HLW
-5
-10
o
100
200
300
500
400 Distance.
Figure 16.
600
700
900
FT
Profile 12 plot depicting changes at including the sewage outfall pipe. 17
800
Cape Charles
Beach
Cape Charles
Beach
15 Line 12 12 12 -...-....12
10+
I-
U.
Survey 140 150 200 201
2 15 16 14
Date NOV B7 MARBB APR 92 APR 93
5
C 0
..... ....
ro >
OJ ...... w
01
,
"
"
. ...
HLW
-5
-10
o
100
200
300
400
500
Distance. Figure
17.
600
700
800
900
FT
Profile 12 plot depicting changes at Cape Charles excluding the sewage outfall pipe.
Beach
Cape Charles Beach 15
10+
I-
U.
-------
Line 13 13 13 13
Survey 140 150 200 201
Date 2 NOV 87 15 MAR88 16 APR 92 14 APR 93
5
C
0 ..... .... ro > OJ
......
w
01
,
--r..-.
'----- --------.....
.....
HLW
-5
-10
o
100
200
300
400
500
Distance.
Figure 18.
600
700
800
900
FT
Profile 13 plot depicting changes at Cape Charles Beach. 18
300
250
Q) Q) 200 --
I
-0 150 c 0
;E (f)
0
100
a..
50
o 1
2
3
4
5
6 7 8 9 ProfileNumber
--- Nov87 -+- Mar88 ~ Figure
19.
Distance
11
Apr92 -a- Apr93
of MHW from the baseline
19
10
(feet).
12
13
10
8
'-" c
6
ill
4
0 :.;:J CO > Q)
2
o 2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
Profile Number
1-- Apr92-.Figure
20.
Elevation
Apr93
above MLW of the base of dune.
200 180 160 140
g Q) ()
120
c
100
en i:5
80
CO +--
60 40 20 0
2
3
4
10
56789
11
12
13
Profile Number
1-- Apr92 -.- Apr93 Figure
21.
Distance
to base of dune from the baseline.
20
showed a slight increase in elevation. The BOD position of profile 2 grew significantly bayward whereas the BOD position of profile 8 moved only several feet. The average elevation of the BOD for both April, 1992 and April, 1993 is about +5.0 feet MLW. This elevation was used to determine changes in dune volume that will be discussed in the next section. The peak elevation of the dune system has increased with time except for the dune area between profiles 10 and 11, the area of chronic erosion. Between profiles 3 and 10, the peak dune elevations averaged +10 feet MLW by April, 1993.
2.
Beach, Dune, and Nearshore Volume Changes
The amount of fill material either lost or gained along the shore zone can be measured by changes in cubic yards (cy) per shore cell. The rate of change in fill volume is expressed in terms of cubic yards per linear foot along the shore per year (cyjftjyr). The subaerial portion of the beach profile which includes the subaerial beach and dune has shown a marked loss of material since the beach nourishment project, from March, 1988 to April, 1993, in shore cells 6 through 12 (Figure 22). There has been an increase in subaerial volume in shore cells 1 to 3. There was an initial loss of material between shore cells 3 and 6 from March, 1988 to April, 1992 but then a subsequent increase was seen from April, 1992 to April, 1993. The rate of change of the subaerial portion of the profiles for the four years following the beach fill project show significant losses in cells 4 to 12 (Figure 23). Slight gains in subaerial volume rates change occur in cells 1 and 2 with no net gain at cell 3. From April, 1992 to April, 1993, loss rates continue for cells 8 to 11 with what would appear to be significant corresponding gains in cells 1 to 6. The dune portion of the subaerial region has shown a marked increase in volume from March, 1988 to April, 1992 and to April, 1993 between shore cells 1 and 8 (Figure 24). There was an increase in dune volume from March, 1988 to April, 1992 from shore cells 8 to 13 but then the dune eroded significantly in that area from April, 1992 to April, 1993. While small dunes still exist at profiles 10 and 11, a portion of the beach between them has eroded such that the bulkhead is now exposed. The rate or change of dune volume shows an increased rate of gain from cells 2 to 5 and an increased rate of loss from cells 8 to 12 between the periods March, 1988 to April, 1992 and April, 1992 to April, 1993, respectively (Figure 25). These patterns of rates of volume change correspond to the patterns of volume change for the subaerial region. Generally, the nearshore region has experienced an increase in volume from March, 1988 to April, 1992 for shore cells 2 to 9 (Figure 26). Slight losses in the nearshore have occurred in shore cells 10 to 13 from March, 1988 to April, 1993 and cells 2 to 4 from April, 1992 to April, 1993. The rate of volume change in the nearshore for the first four years after the fill (March, 1988 to April, 1992) reflect the volume change discussed above (Figure 27). An increase in nearshore sediment volume creates a corresponding decrease in nearshore water depth off the southern half of the public beach creating a large low tide terrace. In fact, MLW moved an average of 95 feet bayward of its post-fill position by April, 1993 (profiles 1 to 7). A corresponding landward movement of MLW was measured along the northern half of the public beach (profiles 8 to 13). The overall assessment of the sediment volume changes at Cape Charles is that the beach fill placed in March, 1988 has significantly eroded on the northern half of the project. The transport of the eroded material appears to be southward alongshore as well as offshore. Also, a significant portion of material has been trapped in the dune area. A summary of volume changes is
21
11 10 9
e
(l)
E
:J (5
>
..
7
CII
6
"to f;j
:> 0 E.
5 4 3 2
Cell Number ---
Figure 22.
Nov8?
Mar88 """'*"" Apr92 -e-
Apr93
Subaerial beach volume calculations by cell.
4
2
0 -C<:>.
-ÂŤI c:
-2
(l)
-4 -6
-8
Cell Number
-Figure 23.
Mar88-Apr92 Apr92-Apr93
Subaerial beach rate of change.
22
- --
4000 3500 3000 2500 2000 Q)
E :J
"0
1500
>
1000 500 0 -500 1
3
2
5
4
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
Cell Number
1___ 1988
Figure
24.
1992-B- 1993
Volume of sand in the dune area relative 1987 fill.
to the
4
2
0 'C' >-
-2 Q) itt a: -4
-6
-8
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
Cell Number
1-8- 88-92
Figure
25.
Volume
92-93
rate of change
23
in the dune area.
12
4000 3500 3000 2500 >: 2000 Q)
E :J
"5 1500 > 1000 500 0 -500
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
CellNumber
1Figure
4
2
-
0
.....
>. -:E:.
>. -2 Q) ..co a: -4
-6
26.
1988
1992-E3- 1993
Nearshore volume change relative beach nourishment project.
to the 1987
depicted in Figure 28 by shore cell. Once again, the major losses were to the subaerial region from March, 1988 to April, 1992 from cells 7 to 12 indicating that erosive wave forces are concentrated in that region. Of the original 87,000 cy placed along the Cape Charles Public Beach in 1988, approximately 70,500 cy remained in 1992 (Table 4). By 1993, an additional 200 cy was present in the system; however, this net gain was exclusively in the dune area. In all, there was a net loss of 19% of the total fill volume over five years. There was no doubt some fill losses beyond the limits of the survey as well as sediment input from native sources. Also, some fill material was probably lost around the end as well as through the channel jetty given the net southward littoral drift.
C.
Anthropogenic Impacts to Shoreline Processes
Obviously, the major impact to the Cape Charles Public Beach has been the 1988 beach fill project. The channel harbor jetty is the main structural feature controlling the littoral processes and the fate of the nourished beach material but the storm drain outfall has also had a local impact to the very north end of the beach. The channel jetty is relatively low at the shoreward end. The storm drain outfall exits the bulkhead at about profile 13, heads due west for 285 feet and crosses the line of profile 12 (Figure 29). The current beach planform shows that there is an embayment on the south side of the structure. Wave diffraction around the end of the outfall, especially from the northwest alters the direction of wave approach along the shoreline. This causes sand to be transported both north into the lee of the gab ion spurs as well as southward, creating the high erosion zone seen at profiles 10 and 11. However, without the storm drain and spurs, the entire north end of the beach most likely would have eroded back to the bulkhead by this time.
Table 4.
Dune . .. (cy)
Total . .. (cy)
Subaerial* (cy)
Nearshore (cy)
Mar 1988
62,371
21,821
2,605
86,797
Apr 1992
33,173
27,158
10,169
70,500
32,750
26,475
11,452
70,677
Date
Apr 1993 * Excludes
IV.
Cape Charles volume changes relative to the 1987 beach nourishment project.
dune
volume.
WAVE MODELLING AT CAPE CHARLES
A.
RCPWAVE Setup
A detailed discussion of wave processes, sediment transport and numerical modelling are beyond the scope of this report, the interested reader can refer to Appendix I for a listing of pertinent references. The use of RCPWAVE to model the hydrodynamics at Cape Charles ass~mes that wave transformation is affected only by the offshore bathymetry (Figure 30). The purpose here is to present a general view of the impinging wave climate. Figure 30 was constructed from digital bathymetric data obtained from the National Oceanic Survey (NOS, 1983). The position of the shoreline is MLW prior to the beach nourishment project. The local wave climate input for RCPWAVE was derived by wind/wave hindcasting by using wind data from the Yorktown Power Plant owned and operated by Virginia Power. The procedure described in section II.B. of this
25
/
8000
.
..
-
Subaerlal(67 -66)
6000 I
I
I
I
I
I
I I Nrshor(67-66)
EiliJ
Subae rial(66-92)
1mB
-
4000 I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I I Nrshor(66-92)
() ......... Q)
0> C as .c 0 Q) E :J 0
D It
2000
Nrshr(92-93) I m.....'(92-93)
0
>
-2000
-4000
-6000 1
2
3
4
567
8
9
10
11
Cell Number Figure
28.
Summary
26
of volume
changes..
12
CAPE
oL
-
lOb
I
C J./A R..1. E:S
UIo
. FEElk:>oI
"=.
8 EA C-/-I
$DO I
MEAN HIGH WI'rTSR
/'l117 {'lEg API? {q<jl API? 199.3 NLJV
- -MAR .,
MA7:J/~b7J Av
-l €TTY
Figure
29.
Base map depicting
ASLHJ
distance
27
AVE__0-
to MEW from the baseline.
cell number 10
cO
JO
40
50
bO
70
80
90
M
100 J 10 120 IJO 140 150 IbO 1"10
.
co N
110
Cape Charles HArbor
100
90
80
.j.J QI QI '1-1
I: ..-j
N
..-j
.
70
J..I 0
M M M
'0 ..-j
II 60
50
J..I
>, '0
a
0 J..I
II
'1-1
.-i
.-i 40
!II
QI U
QI M ..-j
:c
M JO
20
10
!
o o o
.
N 10
"/0
60
90
1 cell
100 I!O 120 1:10 140 150 160 170
= dx = 65.6
feet
Cherrystone Channel ..
0.00
2.20
Hiles
Figure 30.
from grid origin
Shoreline and offshore bathymetry grid Beach used in the RCPWAVEevaluation.
28
-
---
at
Cape Charles
report produces a significant wave height and period for three fetch exposures, Northwest (NW), West (W) and Southwest (SW), for the wind record years 1987 to 1990 (Table 3). We have defined these parameters as the seasonal modal wave conditions and they were modelled at a still water level of +2.5 feet MLW or about MHW. A severe winter storm condition was also run using an incident wave condition of 4.9 feet from the northwest at a still water level of +4.9 feet MLW which has a return frequency of three years (Boon et al., 1978) associated with an extratropical storm event.
B.
Wave Height Distribution and Wave Refraction
RCPWAVE takes an incident wave condition at the seaward boundary of the grid and allows it to propagate shoreward across the nearshore bathymetry. Frictional dissipation due to bottom roughness is accounted for in this analysis and is relative in part to the mean sand size (0.25 mm). Waves also tend to become smaller over shallower bathymetry and remain larger over deeper bathymetry. In general, waves break when the ratio of wave height to water depth equals 0.78 (Komar, 1976). Upon entering shallow water, waves are subject to refraction, in which the direction of wave travel changes with decreasing depth of water in such a way that wave crests tend to parallel the depth contours. Irregular bottom topography can cause waves to be refracted in a complex way and produce variations in the wave height and energy along the coast (Komar, 1976). From the perspective of beach stability and behavior, it is the energy and momentum flux entering the surf zone that are important. Both quantities are proportional to the square of the wave height; the height of the setup at the shore is directly proportional to the breaker wave height (Wright et al., 1987). However, in the case of the three annual modal wave conditions, RCPWAVE did not define a breaking wave condition across the grid's nearshore region due to the extreme dissipative nature of the shallow bathymetry. That is to say, the incident waves simply became gradually smaller over a long shallow nearshore region and only broke at the immediate shore cell. The wave height and direction at the shore cell were then used to compute longshore transport rates. Figures 31A and 318 show wave height distribution along the Cape Charles shoreline for the southwest and west annual modal wave conditions. Figures 32A and 328 show the annual modal and storm wave for the northwest condition which defined breaking waves 1 to 3 cells from the shoreline. The distribution of wave heights along the Cape Charles shoreline is predicted to be rather uniform under the west modal condition. There are larger waves predicted in the central portion of Cape Charles relative to the north and south ends under the southwest modal wave. Under the northwest modal wave condition, slightly larger waves are predicted at each end of the public beach. The northwest storm condition shows a significant increase in breaker wave height overall, especially at either end of the public beach. In order to compare the model runs for the modal wave conditions, wave refraction patterns were plotted from the RCPWAVE output. Figures 33, 34 and 35 show the wave refraction vectors for the regional grid and the local grid for each annual modal wave condition. Figure 36 depicts wave refraction vectors for the northwest storm condition. The waves break just beyond the shoreline in the nearshore region under the storm scenario. The wave vector plot of the west modal condition shows little refraction or alteration in the wave patterns on the regional and local grid scales (Figures 33A and 338). The angle to the shoreline is slight or almost shore normal. The west condition has a relatively low incident wave energy with about the same event average duration as the northwest modal condition (i.e. about 15 hours).
The southwest modal wave condition shows perhaps the most oblique wave approach to the Cape Charles shoreline (Figures 34A and 348). This would be very conducive to alongshore transport of beach material northward. However, 29 '
2.06
S h 0
:J:
1-'.
r e J \..V 0
n e
)
I-' (D !II HI Ii
(
! \
A
N
I
I
B
1-'. Q. 0 Ii 1-'. 1-'. ::1
Figure 31.
Breaking wave height (Hb) modal wave conditions.
(ft)
distribution
for
A) southwest
and B) west
annual
2.06
S h 0
tI:.
r
e
(I)
!II
j w t-'
HI 11
J
n e
\
A
1 N
I
/
B
. j;1, 0 11. . ::s
feet Figure
32.
Breaking wave height (Hb) (ft) distribution for A) northwest annual modal and B) northwest storm wave conditions.
- ---feet
3.28
3.28
(wave height)
---------
feet
hilight)
2.06
2.83
------
-----
-----------------0 " ---------------B'~ -------C --------,.,j-------------------~..-~+-(------------------.... -----------
(
---
c
0'"
tII
(j 1/1
W N
o
--------
J N
ยง
A
---------
1-1 .... !II QJ
-.,.-..------
-----------------
..- ..- ..- .". -- ..-
--------
-----
----0.00
Figure
33.
conditions
0.50
0.00 Hiles
fro. grid origin
West modal
1.62
0.0
2.20 Hiles
ยง1-1 .... !II QJ ~ 0'" x
-------
0'" :t
c 0'" tII 0'" 1-1 o oa 0'" 1-1 t tII
wave vector
plot for A) regional
fro. grid origin
and B) local grid scales.
N
B
-
3.28 feet
-
(wave height)
-
/ / I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I } } } } } }I 2.83
/
,/
I I
'"
I
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the southwester usually occurs during periods of normal water levels and has a low incident wave condition close to that of the west modal wave condition (i.e. about 1.3 feet). Also, RCPWAVE does not account for the effects of the harbor jetty that no doubt alters wave approach from the southwest by diffraction. The general effect would be to cause southwest approaching waves to bend and become more shore normal, thus reducing the potential for alongshore transport of beach material. The shallow nearshore created by the channel jetty is considered in the RCPWAVE runs. The northwest modal wave condition appears to most affected by the Cherrystone Inlet Channel as seen in Figure 35A where the wave vectors become more southerly in direction and slightly larger in wave height. The northwest modal wave begins more oblique to the grid shore than the southwest modal wave but after crossing the channel and nearshore the resultant shore vectors are more shore normal. The wave heights at the shoreline (Figure 358) are only slightly higher than the southwest and west conditions indicating that bottom friction may affect the larger waves before they reach the shore cell. The effect of one storm can translate into a major sediment transport event that may be greater than several years of modal wave activity. The severe storm that is modelled in Figures 36A and 368 occurred in February, 1987, just before the beach fill project. Several other slightly smaller northwest wind events are recorded in the winters of 1988 and 1989. The storm condition was run at an elevated water level which allows waves in the shore zone to reach almost a meter in height before breaking. This will have a major impact on the subaerial beach and dunes.
C.
Littoral Transport Patterns
The movement of sand along a beach zone is dependent on breaking wave height and angle of wave approach. Applications of littoral drift formulae are subject to large errors; hence, the absolute magnitudes predicted must be considered suspect or, at best, accepted with caution (Wright at al., 1987). However, the relative magnitudes as they vary along the coast under different wave scenarios is probably more meaningful as are predicted directions of transport. Estimates obtained using the selected method in this report include the moderating effects of breaker height variations. The methods of calculating littoral drift used here are Gourlay's (1982) as discussed in Wright et al. (1987). The reader is referred once again to Wright et al. (1987) for a complete discussion of these formulae and their applications. Erosional or accretionary changes in the volume of sand stored in a beach are determined by the gradients in alongshore flux (dQ/dy). Specifically, when the rate of littoral drift entering a given coastal sector exceeds the rate exiting the sector, accretion results. Erosion results when output exceeds input; there is no change when input and output are equal (Wright et al., 1987). Onshore-offshore sediment fluxes are not accounted for in the estimates of (dQ/dy) here. For the west and southwest modal wave conditions, the calculation of (dQ/dy) for the Cape Charles public beach are shown in Figures 37A and 378 respectively. The calculation of (dQ/dy) for the west modal condition shows that a significant area of deposition arises only near the channel jetty. The rest of the beach shows no net gain or loss (Figure 37A). For the southwest modal wave condition, the plot of (dQ/dy) shows deposition along much of the Cape Charles shore except for the area between profiles 4 and 7 and between profile 11 to the northern boundary of the plot (Figure 378). For the northwest modal wave condition, the plotted patterns of (dQ/dy) (Figure 38A) display alternating areas of erosion and deposition with a significant depositional spike near the channel jetty. Predicted areas of erosion occur just north of that spike at profile 1 as well as near profiles 4 and 9, and north of profile 13. According to the northwest storm condition, the patterns of erosion and deposition show erosion at profiles 4 and 9 and significant deposition near the channel jetty (Figure 388).
36
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38B.
Gradient of alongshore energy flux (dQ/dy)(cy/hr) for the northwest storm condition.
The southwest modal wave condition has a greater per event duration but the northwest modal wave condition has a slightly higher wave energy input along the Cape Charles shore. The one area of predicted deposition is near the channel jetty. The rest of the public beach shore fluctuates under the impinging modal wave conditions with no other dominant erosion or depositional areas. The southwest and northwest appear to modify each other in that respect. However, the northwest storm condition forces the transport patterns in such a way that the areas of erosion and deposition closely align with the shore changes determined from the field survey data. The best correlation is the erosional area predicted between profiles 7 and 11 and the accretional area at the channel jetty. What RCPWAVE fails to dQ is account for the beach fill, the effects of tidal currents and predict onshore-offshore sediment movement. Losses due to eolian action is also beyond its capability. The model did predict significant areas of deposition near the channel jetty as well as provide a somewhat balanced sediment transport scenario under modal wave conditions. The predicted area of significant erosion under the storm condition was also fairly accurate. However, without field surveys or other shoreline change data, it would be unwise to rely on the model output alone for shoreline management plans. With the field data and a close model correlation, one can begin to develop an accurate picture of a given shoreline situation.
V.
CONCLUSIONS
Cape Charles' public beach has been reduced in volume approximately 19% since the beach nourishment project of 1988. Added fill at the north end is needed to maintain a wide recreational beach. However, some type of sand retaining device should be used to keep the sand from eroding. Additional projects consisting simply of beach fill will only serve to increase the beach and nearshore along the southern half of the public beach. The pattern of sediment movement has been well documented by a series of 13 beach profiles taken by VIMS personnel before (November, 1987) and after (March, 1988) beach nourishment and subsequently in April, 1992 and April, 1993. The beach, dune and nearshore regions have been significantly reduced in size and volume in an area corresponding to profiles 9, 10 and 11 to a point that the bulkhead is exposed. Except for profiles 1 and 2, the entire post-beach fill shoreline has receded. Most of the sand losses from the subaerial beach have shown up in the nearshore and newly created dune system. A relatively wide usable subaerial non-vegetated beach zone occurs only along the southernmost half of the public beach (profiles 1 to 6). The increase in sediment volume in the nearshore also decreases the This water depth, particularly along the south end of the public beach shore. may tend to impede swimming at low water. The best option is to use the north end of the beach at those times where the nearshore is somewhat deeper. Model runs using RCPWAVE show predicted deposition just north of the channel jetty. Significant erosion is predicted during periods of high water and northwest storms at profiles 9, 10 and 11, the area of measured significant erosion. Part of this erosional pattern may be attributed to the storm water outfall, which redirects northwest impinging waves by diffraction. However, without the outfall even more of the northern part of the public beach may have eroded back to the bulkhead.
39
VI.
RECOMMENDATIONS
In order to correct the erosional areas and provide a more usable subaerial beach between the BOD and MLW at Cape Charles Public Beach, the following is recommended:
1.
Place an offshore breakwater(s) at the north end of the public beach so that it works in conjunction with the existing storm water outfall. Breakwater(s) specifications and position are subject to further analysis.
2.
Place approximately 15,000 cy of select beach sand along the mid to northern half of the public beach in the area of severe erosion. The placement and position of the breakwater(s) will be designed to accommodate the fill. The bulkhead will be protected as well.
3.
Raise the level of the channel jetty to above MHW at the shoreward end and place a small spur on the north side to prevent sand losses to the south around and through the jetty.
4.
The dune grasses will continue to colonize the backshore and migrate bayward. A limit should be established along the backshore so the grasses will not reduce usable subaerial beach but still maintain the protection and integrity of the dune system during storms. Each fall, grasses that grow beyond the established line can be transplanted into bare areas of the dunes.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The authors thank Lee Hill, Woody Hobbs and Jerome Maa for their editorial reviews. A special thanks to Beth Marshall for the report preparation and compilation.
40
VII.
REFERENCES
Boon, J.D., C.S Welch, H.S. Chen, R.J. Lukens, C.S. Fang, and J.M. Zeigler, 1978. A Storm Surge Study: Volume I. Storm Surge Height-Frequency Analysis and Model Prediction for Chesapeake Bay. Spec. Rept. 189 in Applied Mar. Sci. and Ocean Engineering, Virginia Institute of Marine Science, Gloucester Point, VA., 155 pp.
Boon, J.D., D.A. Hepworth, and F.H. Farmer, 1992. Chesapeake Bay Wave Climate Wolf Trap Wave Station, Report and Summary of Wave Observations. Virginia Institute of Marine Science Data Report No. 42. Bretschneider, C.L., 1952. The Generation and Decay of Wind Waves in Deep Water. Transactions of the American Geophysical Union, v. 33, p. 381389. Bretschneider, C.L., 1958. Revisions in Wave Forecasting: Deep and Shallow Water. Proceedings Sixth Conf. on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, Council on Wave Research. Byrne, R.J. and G.L. Anderson, 1978. Shoreline Erosion in Tidewater Virginia. SRAMSOE No. 111, Virginia Institute of Marine Science, College of William and Mary, Gloucester Point, VA. Camfield, F.E., 1977. A Method for Estimating Wind-Wave Growth and Decay in Shallow Water with High Values of Bottom Friction. Coastal Engineering Tech. Aid No. 77-6, October, 1977. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering Research Center, Vicksburg, MS, 34 pp. Ebersole, B.A., M.A. Cialone, and M.D. Prater, 1986. RCPWAVE - A Linear Wave Propagation Model for Engineering Use. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Rept. CERC-86-4, 260 pp. Folk, R.L., 1980. Petrology of Sedimentary Rocks, Hemphill Publishing Co., Austin, TX, 182 pp. Friedman, G.M. and J.E. Sanders, 1978. Principles of Sedimentology, John Wiley and Sons, New York, 792 pp. Gourlay, M.R., 1982. Nonuniform Alongshore Currents and Sediment Transport A One Dimensional Approach. civil Eng. Res. Rept. No. CE31, Dept. Civ. Eng., Univ. of Queensland. Hardaway, C.S., Studies: Control. No. 313, and Mary, Kiley,
G.R. Thomas, and J.H. Li, 1991. Chesapeake Bay Shoreline Headland Breakwaters and Pocket Beaches for Shoreline Erosion Special report in Applied Marine Science and Ocean Engineering Virginia Institute of Marine Science, The College of William Gloucester Point, VA, 153 pp.
K., 1982. A Shallow Water Wind Wave Prediction Program. Based Army Corps of Engineers Program developed by CERC, Fort Belvoir,
Komar, P.D., 1976. Beach Processes and Sedimentation. Englewood Cliffs, NJ, 429 pp.
on U.S. VA.
Prentice-Hall, Inc.,
National Oceanographic Survey, 1983. Hydrographic Data Base. Geophysical Data Center, Boulder, CO.
NOAA/National
Rosen, P.S., 1976. The Morphology and Processes of the Virginia Chesapeake Bay Shoreline. Dissertation, Virginia Institute of Marine Science, College of William and Mary, Gloucester Point, VA. Suh, K.D., 1990. Windows Program. Virginia Institute of Marine Science, College of William and Mary, Gloucester Point, VA. 41
Sverdrup, H.U. and W.H. Munk, 1947. Wind, Sea, and Swell: Theory of Relations for Forecasting. u.S. Navy Hydrographic Office Publ. No. 601. u.S. Army Corps of Engineers, 1977. Shore Protection Manual. Engineering Research Center, Fort Belvoir, VA.
Coastal
u.S. Army Corps of Engineers, 1991. Emergency Shoreline Erosion Study, Town of Cape Charles, Northampton County, Virginia. Norfolk, VA, 41 pp. Wright, L.D., C.S. Kim, C.S. Hardaway, Jr., S.M. Kimball, and M.O. Green, 1987. Shoreface and Beach Dynamics of the Coastal Region from Cape Henry to False Cape, Virginia. Virginia Institute of Marine Science Technical Report.
42
APPENDIX I Additional
-
References
about Littoral
Processes
and Hydrodynamic
Modeling
Bagnold, R.A., 1963. Beach and nearshore processes; Part I: Mechanics of marine sedimentation. In M.N. Hill (ed.), The Sea, Vol. 3, WileyInterscience, pp. 507-528. Bowen, A.J., D.L. Inman, and V.P. Simmons, 1968. up." J. Geophys. Res. 73:2569-2577.
Wave "set-down" and "set-
Bretschneider, C.L. and R.O. Reid, 1954. Modification of wave height due to Beach Erosion Board Tech. bottom friction, percolation and refraction. Memo, No. 45.
Coastal Engineering Research Center, 1984. Shore Protection Manual. 4th ed., u.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, MS. Christoffersen, J.B. and I.G. Jonsson, 1985. Bed-friction and dissipation in a combined current and wave motion. Ocean Enginr. 12(5):387-424. Dally, W.R., R.G. Dean, and R.A. Dalrymple, 1984. Modelling wave transformation in the surf zone. u.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station Misc. Paper, CERC-84-8, Vicksburg, MS. Dean, R.G., 1973. Proceedings, 214.
Heuristic models of sand transport in the surf zone. Conf. Enginr. Dynamics in the Surf Zone, Sydney, pp. 208-
Eaton, R.O., 1950. Littoral processes on sandy coasts. IntI. Conf. Coastal Enginr., pp. 140-154.
Proceedings, 1st
Grant, W.D. and O.S. Madsen, 1979. Combined wave and current interaction with a rough bottom. J. Geophys. Res. 84:1797-1808. Grant, W.D. and O.S. Madsen, 1982. Movable bed roughness in unsteady oscillatory flow. J. Geophys. Res. 87:469-481." Inman, D.L. and R.A. Bagnold, 1963. Beach and nearshore processes; Part II: Littoral processes. In M.N. Hill (ed.), The Sea, Vol. 3, WileyInterscience, pp. 529-553. Jonsson, I.G., 1966. Wave boundary layers and friction factors. 10th IntI. Conf. Coastal Enginr., pp. 127-148. Kamphuis, J.W., 1975. Friction factor under oscillatory waves. Barb. Div., ASCE, 102(WW2):135-144.
Proceedings,
ASCE, J. Wat.
Kinsman, B., 1965. Wind Waves, Their Generation and Propagation on the Ocean Surface. Dover, New York, 676 pp. Komar, P.D., 1975. Nearshore currents: Generation by obliquely incident waves and longshore variations in breaker height. Proceedings, Symp. Nearshore Sediment Dynamics, Wiley, New York. Komar, P.D., 1976. Beach Processes and Sedimentation. Jersey, 429 pp.
Prentice-Hall, New
Komar, P.D., 1983. Nearshore currents and sand transport on beaches. In Johns (ed.), Physical Oceanography of Coastal Shelf Seas, Elsevier, New York, pp. 67-109.
Komar, P.D. and D.L. Inman, 1970. Longshore sand transport on beaches. Geophys. Res. 73(30):5914-5927.
J.
Kraus, N.C. and T.O. Sasaki, 1979. Effects of wave angle and lateral mixing on the longshore current. Coastal Enginr. in Japan 22:59-74. LeMehaute, B. and A. Brebner, 1961. An introduction to coastal morphology littoral processes. C.E. Research Report No. 14, Dept. of civil Enginr., Queen's Univ., Kingston, ontario. Longuet-Higgins, currents. Transport,
and
M.S., 1972. Recent progress in the study of longshore In R.E. Meyer (ed.), Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Academic Press, New York, pp. 203-248.
Longuet-Higgins, M.S. and R.W. Stewart, 1962. Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves, with application to surf beats. J. Fluid Mech. 13:481-504. Madsen, O.S., 1976. Wave climate of the continental margin: Elements of its mathematical description. In D.J. stanley and D.J.P. Swift (eds.), Marine Sediment Transport and Environmental Management, Wiley, New York, pp. 65-90. Munch-Peterson, J., 1938. 4(4):1-31.
Littoral drift formula.
Beach Erosion Board Bull.
Nielsen, P., 1983. Analytical determination of nearshore variation due to refraction, shoaling and friction. 7(3):233-252.
wave height Coastal Enginr.
Savage, R.P., 1962. Laboratory determination of littoral transport rates. WW and Harbours Div., ASCE 88(WW2):69-92. Weggel, J.R., 1972. Maximum 78(WW4):529-548.
breaker
height.
J. WW and Harbours
Div.,
J.
ASCE
Wright, L.D., 1981. Beach cut in relation to surf zone morphodynamics. Proceedings, 17th Inti. Conf. Coastal Enginr., Sydney, Australia, pp. 978-996. Wright, L.D. and A.D. Short, 1984. Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: A synthesis. Mar. Geol. 56:93-118. Wright, L.D., R.J. Guza, and A.D. Short, 1982. Dynamics of a high energy dissipative surfzone. Mar. Geol. 45:41-62. Wright, L.D., A.D. Short, and M.D. Green, 1985. Short-term changes in the morphodynamic states of beaches and surfzones: An empirical predictive model. Mar. Geol. 62:339-364. Wright, L.D., P. Nielsen, N.C. Shi, and J.H. List, 1986b. bar-trough surfzone. Mar. Geol. 70:251-285.
Morphodynamics of a