Pure Health Magazine Jan-Feb 2013 by Paul Howells

The world of personal care ingredients

PUREHealth Magazine

TALKING MONEY

A FINANCIAL VIEW OF THE UK HEALTH SECTOR

METROSEXUAL

MALE GROOMING ON THE RISE

SKINCARE

LIVING WITH ECZEMA

COLoMBIA

HUGE GROWTH

ANTI AGEING The secrets of skin ageing

www.purehealthmag.co.uk

COMMS GROUP

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2013 ISSN 2046-2735

PersonalCare

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CONTENTS 22 18

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2013 GUEST EDITORIAL 04 Step Forward the Metrosexual Male Nick Gibbens Show Preview 6 in-cosmetics 2013: Delivering More Than Ever Before Cathy Laporte Trends and Marketing 8 Trends in Make-Up: Not Just a Pretty Face Imogen Matthews

Antiageing 10 The Age Spot Solution Jasmin Lozza 12 The Ancient Power of Dragon Fruit: Preserving Youth and Preventing Ageing Liki von Oppen-Bezalel 14 In Industry: Face Matters Sally Curson 16 The Science of Skin Ageing CĂŠcile Fremont Ethical Sourcing 18 A Trace of Vanilla Christina Witter

8 12

20 Modelling Software: Improving the Sustainability Performance of Products Sabine Fischbach Skincare 22 Easing an Itch the Natural Way: Living with Eczema Mary Lloyd and Graham Warmington Business Matters 24 Talking Money: A Financial View of the UK Health and Beauty Sector James England Technology 26 Alloy Alloy Alloy Copper Bryony Samuel 28 Maximum Product Safety in Half the Time Joachim Stoye Regional Report 30 OlĂĄ Colombia! Dr Kevin Robinson Last Word 34 Making Life a Little Rosier Douglas Rash

GUEST EDITORIAL

Step Forward the metrosexual male Why the UK male grooming market is on the rise

t is no secret that the

by new and innovative product

in the West Midlands top the

British cosmetics industry

developments — and the slow-

male grooming chart, with

Shining the Light on Ingredients

is going from strength to

paced economic recovery will

50% allocating 21–40 minutes

As the marketplace for men’s

strength; there is still one

further encourage consumer

for their daily regime. At the

grooming products becomes

area, however, which

spending. Since 2006, sales

other end of the scale, Welsh

even more competitive, factors

is showing considerable

in the market have risen by

men were found to spend the

such as type of ingredients and

growth. Nick Gibbens, PR and

a whopping 104%, when the

least amount of time grooming,

product performance are the

Marketing Manager for The

market was estimated to be

with only 22% dedicating 21–40

two main influential factors

Bluebeards Revenge range of

worth £450 million. During

minutes in the bathroom.

that males consider during the

luxury paraben-free shaving

the last 2 years, the products

and skincare products, looks

that have proved particularly

Men in Mind

in 2011 by Ape to Gentleman,

at what is driving the boom of

popular, thus accounting

This staggering growth and

a male grooming website,

the male grooming sector, and

for the bulk of the UK’s male

size of the market can be

revealed that men expected

how companies can cash in

grooming market, include

attributed to many different

their grooming products to

on the growing popularity and

personal grooming products

factors — all of which share

work on their first product

trend of the metrosexual male.

such as, deodorants and body

the overall acceptable

purchase and were unlikely

sprays, fragrance, skincare,

acknowledgment that men

to product ‘hop.’ “Once men

shower products and shaving

can and should take care of

find a product that works, they

preparations.

themselves. With the growing

more than likely stick with it.

As well as spending more on

variety and availability of male

Women, by contrast, are more

grooming, fragrance and

grooming products, British men

beauty grooming products and

likely to buy (and repeat buy)

toiletries market is worth

are also taking much longer

with increased competition in

on the promise of result,” they

approximately £920 million.

in the bathroom. A recent

the workplace, it is no wonder

said.

According to the leading

survey commissioned by the

that a rising number of ageing

market research company, Key

male cancer charity Orchid

baby boomers are eager to

emphasis for brands in

Note, sales are expected to go

and The Bluebeards Revenge

stay stylish. With innovative

2013 should be based on

rocketing through the £1 billion

found that 1 in 3 UK men spend

packaging, PR companies are

educating men about the

barrier by the end of 2015. This

between 21 and 40 minutes in

able to pull out all the stops to

content of products and

growth will primarily be driven

the bathroom every day. Men

market products successfully

developing products that

and efficiently, therefore

are more male-friendly and

being able to captivate male

effective. The choice of

consumers exclusively.

ingredients incorporated into

The Scent of Attraction At present, the UK men’s

buying process. Research done

Furthermore, the desire to

a product plays a crucial role

look well groomed has been

in this and research by Mintel

driven by male role models

suggests brands using natural

such as David Beckham,

ingredients and antioxidants

Gerard Butler, Jason Statham

are likely to help boost sales in

and Daniel Craig — with

the men’s grooming segment

supposed lifestyle tips and

during the coming 12 months.

product reviews documented

This suggests that the

Owing to the increasing

and communicated to the

use of the Internet, men

male masses through the

are becoming much more

pages of luxury men’s lifestyle

knowledgeable on the

magazines and online

ingredients manufactures

grooming blogs. Marketers

are using in their products.

have taken further advantage

Many men are deciding to

of this and have used popular

stay away from controversial

movie actors and sportsmen

ingredients such as parabens

to endorse male grooming

after press reports linking them

products, thus captivating

with cancer. Parabens are

all ages.

chemical compounds derived

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2013

from parahydroxybenzoic

parabens are widely used

and depilation

acid. They are widely used in

in drugs and food additives

and, at the same

cosmetics such as underarm

and they often occur

time, providing a

deodorants, moisturizers,

naturally in some foods

recovering effect

make-up, shaving foam,

such as blueberries. They

on the skin. This

tanning lotions and

are approved for use as

has enabled the

toothpaste to extend their

preservatives in the European

brand to market its

shelf-life by protecting them

Cosmetics Directive and

shaving products at

from microbial growth.

have been endorsed by

the “problem shaver”

authorities in all the Member

— the man that suffers

raised concerns about

States. In a similar manner,

from tough stubble and

the potential role of these

men are also avoiding other

common skin irritations

parabens in breast cancer

harsh ingredients such as

such as razor rash and burn.

as they possess oestrogenic

sodium laureth sulfate, as

Overall, products like these

properties. Oestrogen is

these are also linked to skin

highlight the growing UK

known to play a central role in

irritation. On the flipside,

men’s grooming industry,

the development, growth and

brands using, innovative,

and further suggest 2013 as

progression of breast cancer.

safe and scientifically proven

a pivotal year for the rising

The most common parabens

ingredients are attracting a

metrosexual man.

used in cosmetic products

new type of customer who is

include methylparaben,

actively seeking products that

propylparaben and

are tailored to their needs.

butylparaben, whereas

For instance, the shaving

less common types include

cream and post-shave balms

benzylparaben and

of the Bluebeards Revenge

isobutylparaben.

range contain Decelerine:

Studies since 1998 have

These ingredients must

a unique formula that

be clearly printed on the

contains a mixture of active

label. Although the use of

ingredients that delay hair

these chemicals is deemed

growth, therefore reducing

controversial in cosmetics,

the frequency of shaving

2013 JANUARY/FEBRUARY

For more information Nick Gibbens The Bluebeards Revenge Global House Richmond Place Lee Mill, PL21 9RL, UK. Tel. +44 1752 898 191 nick@bluebeards-revenge.co.uk www.bluebeards-revenge.co.uk

PREVIEW

in-cosmetics 2013 delivering more than ever before

Home to some of the world’s most famous and luxurious cosmetics and personal care brands, Paris will provide the perfect host for in-cosmetics as it returns to the French capital on 16–18 April. With more than 600 exhibitors expected to attend, and exciting new features being launched, the event is anticipated to be at its biggest and best yet.

rrespective of the type of

personal care products. In

at the latest trends, regulations

than the 2012 show, including

product, water is a crucial

addition, panel discussions

and formulation challenges that

Innovation Seminars highlighting

and necessary component

and keynote speakers from

are encountered when adding

exhibitors’ most recent ingredient

in any product in the

leading brands will further

fragrance to cosmetics products.

launches and marketing trends

personal care market.

address future H 2O innovations

The second is the Testing and

presentations designed to inspire

Coincidentally, 2013 has been

and initiatives with the aim of

Regulation Zone, which will

creative thinking and inform

designated as the International

reducing water consumption

provide a platform for visitors to

visitors of the latest industry

Year of Water Co-operation,

and water pollution.

gain advice from exhibitors on

trends. Delegates can also pay

the increasingly important legal

to attend topical workshops to

which aims to highlight the

Furthermore, launching at

universal use of water and raise

in-cosmetics 2013 will be two new

frameworks in Europe, Asia and

learn more about formulation

awareness of its increased

zones. The first is the Fragrance in

the USA, as well as the latest

techniques, gain insight into the

demand and allocation in

Cosmetics Zone, which will enable

advances in testing technologies

latest scientific advances and

various industries. At the

visitors to meet with Fragrance

that will help to ensure superior

receive advice on regulatory

show, attendees are invited

Houses, producers and distributors

product efficacy.

requirements from experts.

to follow an “H 2O Trail” that

of fragrance ingredients, who will

allows participating stands to

showcase their latest products,

Zone will also make its return,

discover unique formulations,

technologies and know-how. The

More Than Just Ingredients

new ingredients, product

interactive pods will allow visitors

in-cosmetics 2013 will boast a

their most recent innovative

concepts and technologies

to discover exciting new scents,

comprehensive free-to-attend

ingredient, typically only having

that use water innovatively for

while a morning session in the

Educational Programme, which

launched in the 6 months leading

the development of creative

Marketing Trends Theatre will look

will contain 20% more content

up to the show. Daily Product

The hugely popular Innovation where exhibitors will display

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2013

AMA Laboratories, INC. www.amalabs.com

Phone: +1.845.634.4330 216 Congers Road Building 1, New City, New York 10956

Specializing in: SPF Testing In-Vivo and In-Vitro Testing Product Efficacy Testing RIPT and Hypoallergenic Testing Moisturization & Skin Hydration Antiperspirant Efficacy Matched Scientific Photography Demonstrations from Mintel Beauty

time to celebrate lifelong dedication

and Personal Care’s analysts will give

to the industry and the Innovation

attendees the opportunity to see,

Zone Best Ingredient award will

touch and taste the latest worldwide

recognize the development of

innovations featuring H2O, including

three unique active or functional

beauty drinks, skincare, hair care and

ingredients. Meanwhile, Cosmetics &

colour cosmetics formulated with

Toiletries magazine will also present

water from unique sources, and mix-

awards for Best New Ingredient and

it-yourself products that require the

Most Creative Application.

addition of water.

The countdown has begun. With

“in-cosmetics 2013 is a must-attend

just 5 months until the doors open in

show for professionals in the personal

Paris, in-cosmetics has already seen

care and cosmetics ingredients

record interest and exhibitor stands

industry,” said Cathy Laporte, Group

are close to sell out. To date, more

Marketing Manager, in-cosmetics.

than 30 first-time exhibitors have

“Paris is recognized as being the focal

signed up from Greece, Israel, Taiwan

point for the cosmetics industry and

and Turkey, among other countries.

will provide the perfect backdrop to

They will be joined by many of the

what will be the show’s most expansive

major industry players from across the

event yet. With more exhibitors, new

globe who, as always, traditionally

features and a highly topical show

present at the show. Exhibitors will

theme, visitors will benefit from more

share their expertise and launch their

specialized industry content than ever

latest innovations, thus giving visitors’

before.” Attendees will be able to plan

unrivalled access to valuable insights

their visit to in-cosmetics 2013 with the

and product information.

show’s newly launched App (www. in-cosmetics.com/App). This year, four awards will be presented to honour innovation and outstanding achievement. The prestigious Lifetime Achievement Award makes its return for a second

2013 JANUARY/FEBRUARY

For more information

Cathy Laporte Group Marketing Manager in-cosmetics www.in-cosmetics.com

PhGx™ PhotoGrammetrix Analysis

Instrumental Claim Support Hair and Nail Care Studies Color Persistance and Duration

TRENDS AND MARKETING

Trends in Make-Up: Not Just a Pretty Face The economic downturn has had minimal impact on the vibrant and booming make-up industry, which is showing consistent growth. Imogen Matthews, consultant to in-cosmetics, examines the reasons and provides examples of products that are setting the big trends.

n 2012, the global make-up market was

found it fiddly to apply, took too long to dry

estimated by Euromonitor to be worth

and chipped off too quickly. Recently, the

a total of $55 billion.1 This was up by a

sector has changed and is heavily influenced

healthy 24% from the previous 5 years of

by trends in fashion and has become extremely

recession. Make-up sales in Asia Pacific

innovative. This has encouraged consumers

are most impressive, with a 32% increase

to regard nail polish as being just as important

compared with the previous 5-year period,

as any other make-up item. The “Nail Polish

thus taking it into pole position ahead of North

Effect” describes nail make-up purchases by

America and Western Europe, the movers and

women wanting to treat themselves when

shakers in the make-up market.

they have little disposable income. A new nail

The resilient nature of the make-up

colour can also instantly update and add a

industry is well documented and has roots steeped throughout history. During the Great

twist to an outfit at minimal cost. Today, brands are continuously searching for

Depression in the 1930s, women bought red

new technologies that allow for a fast drying

lipstick as a way to cheer themselves up as it

rate and have a long-lasting effect once

was seen as a cheap and instant pick-me-up.

applied. For instance, Estée Lauder’s Pure

Today, it is viewed in a similar manner, resulting

Color Les Rouges is formulated with True Vision

in the proposed theory of the “Lipstick Effect,”

Technology that provides nails with maximum

as put forward by Leonard Lauder, chairman of

colour and coverage in a bendable coating

Estée Lauder Companies. He believed that the

that stretches with the nail for long-term

amount of lipstick purchased was one way to

durability.

gauge the economic status. When times were

New nail technology has led to a vast range

tough, women would abstain from spending

of possibilities, not only in terms of colour, but

money on high priced luxury items in favour

also provide the user with a variety of special

of purchasing products such as lipstick, which

effects and textures. Ciaté broke the mould of

could easily be purchased with disposable

conventional glossy and matte textures with

income.

its Caviar-effect nail polish, which is achieved

This phenomenon was particularly apparent

by sprinkling “Caviar pearls” over the painted

during the latest economic blip; however,

nail when still wet. By pressing down on the

there was a twist in that it was not only lipsticks

nail, the “pearls” compact to ensure durability.

that flew off the shelves. It transpires that

Ciaté’s current special effect for nails is The

women are buying a variety of make-up

Velvet Manicure. The technique is similar to

as well as other beauty items. With various

Caviar in that the “velvet” powder is sprinkled

brands offering competitive low prices and

onto freshly painted nails to create a velvet-

an instantaneous “feel good factor” upon

coated look and feel. Inspired by the SS13

application, the flourishing status of the make-

trend for texture and leather, Nails Inc. has

up industry should come as no surprise.

created a leather effect polish that is glossy on application but dries down into a leather-

Finger Fashion

look texture. The pack includes crystal skull

For decades, nail polish was considered to be an afterthought for many women who

embellishments and glue that can be used to create a nail art look. Mintel tracks new product launches through its GNPD survey and has recorded a number of new nail launches offering gellike finishes, without the need for UV lamps or

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2013

professional help.1 For example,

nail polishes that are semisheer

this trend is relatively niche but

Brilliance Color Wheel; three

GelColor by OPI is claimed to

and can be layered over metallic

has potential. “As brands gain

shades are chosen according

dry in 30 seconds and last for

or glitter polishes to create

a better understanding of the

to strength and weakness, the

up to 3 weeks; however, it must

different effects. To get the best

way in which consumers’ beauty,

“subconscious need” and talent

be applied by an OPI trained

of both worlds of the “on trend”

psychological and well-being

— which is required to satisfy the

technician.

gel-textured finish, Deliplus Gel

needs interact, I believe that

subconscious. In theory, the end

Acabado Mate matte finish gel

innovation in the area of mood

colour the user chooses reflects

DIY: Gel at Home

can be applied as a top coat

cosmetics and neurocosmetics

their mood and area of the face

Japanese brand Ettusais has

and is designed to transform any

will start to gain more traction.”

that they want to accentuate.

brought out a Gel Color Coat

base nail polish.

Too Faced cosmetics have

The newest make-up trends may

tapped into the mood trend

turn out to be nothing more than

that is designed to give a thick and shiny coat like salon-treated

Mood Cosmetics

market with its MoodSwing

a novelty, but novelty is what

gel nails, without the need of

For many years, cosmetics that

gloss. Using heat-responsive

drives sales in this fast-moving

a UV lamp. Coverage can be

affect the mood of the user have

technology to react to body

market.

intensified by applying up to

been popular with consumers;

temperature, this “shade-

three layers for extra thickness.

however, new technologies

shifting” lip gloss is applied clear

Barry M Gelly Hi-Shine Nail Paint

have led to the creation of

before going through a spectrum

is said to provide a high shine gel

mood products that change

of pink hues as it reacts to body

effect with an extra glossy finish.

colour or texture to correspond

temperature.

Orly SmartGels Base + Top Coat

with the consumer’s emotional

Nail Lacquer features a base

state. These are distinct from

not claim to change colour on

coat to create a smooth surface

“neurocosmetics,” which refer

the user’s skin but the concept

for even gel application, whilst

to beauty and personal care

allows customers to match

the top coat seals in colour and

products that serve to enhance

their make-up shade with the

provides a durable, shiny surface.

consumers’ mood or mental

emotional state they wish to

well-being. Michaela Peck, an

embody. To find out what that is,

analyst at Datamonitor believes

Lush has created an Emotional

Similarly, professional nail brand Zoya has a range of jelly

A5 quer-4c-D-F-E:Layout 1

07.09.2010

15:23 Uhr

Lush Emotional Brilliance does

reference

1. Euromonitor, Mintel and Datamonitor will present at this year’s trends presentations at in-cosmetics 2013 (16–18 April) in Paris, France: www.in-cosmetics.com.

For more information Imogen Matthews Imogen Matthews Associates Tel. +44 1865 764 918 imogen@imogenmatthews.co.uk www.imogenmatthews.co.uk

Seite 3

www.stolz-concept.de

We’re taking a (super)critical look at extract quality

FLAVEX ® Naturextrakte GmbH · info@flavex.com · www.flavex.com 2013 JANUARY/FEBRUARY

ANTIAGEING

The Age Spot Solution

Age spots, or as they are often referred to, sun or liver spots, are brown to black macules that appear on our skin as we age, owing to exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light. Typically, age spots appear on the most exposed areas of our skin — the back of the hand, face and décolletage — resulting in a visual disturbance in an otherwise consistent and even skin tone. Although harmless, they are perceived to be an undesirable visual clue to a women’s age.

hitening

of peptide hormones such as,

by the proteasome system.

inhibitor of tyrosine kinase, an

products

alpha-melanocyte-stimulating

The latter is essential for the

enzyme involved in fundamental

are often

hormone (a-MSH), endothelin-1

degradation of proteins;

signalling cascades in the cell

used to fade

(ET-1) and the cytokine stem

however, with ageing, the

associated with development

age spots;

cell factor (SCF) (Figure 1). These

proteasome activity decreases,

and cell division. Notably,

however, if not applied correctly

signalling molecules bind to

thus resulting in an accumulation

the intracellular domain of

and with precision, the fading

their corresponding receptors

of lipofuscin in the cells.2

the SCF receptor is a tyrosine

effect is apparent on the

on the melanocyte and

surrounding skin, causing it also

stimulate the production of the

to reduce the appearance of

research has demonstrated the

to lighten. Recently, Mibelle

pigment, melanin, and promote

age spots involve the application

involvement of tyrosine kinase

Biochemistry has developed a

dendrite formation. Melanin

of lightening products to fade

in the ET-1 signalling cascade.

cosmetic active ingredient that

is stored in organelles known

the spots’ colour and the

Thus, genistein is able to inhibit

specifically fades age spots and,

as melanosomes, which are

additional application of a high

the effect of SCF and ET-1 on

more importantly, has a minor

transported from melanocytes

SPF sunscreen to prevent the

melanocytes, thereby interfering

effect on healthy unaffected

to keratinocytes. Once inside

development of further age

with the characteristic melanin

pigmented skin. Delentigo is

the keratinocyte, they form

spots. Typically, the whitening

production in the formation of

based on a combination of the

a “protective shield” around

actives found in such products

age spots.

soy isoflavone, genistein, and a

the cell nucleus, reducing

are not only effective on age

sprout extract from garden cress.

UV‑induced DNA damage. In

spots, but they tend to lighten

garden cress sprout extracts act

Cosmetic treatments that aim

kinase.3 Moreover, further

In a similar manner, the

the case of the cells within age

the surrounding skin at the same

in several ways to prevent the

changes in skin colour associated

spots, they exhibit enhanced

time. Consequently, the fading

appearance of age spots. As

with exposure to sunlight during

melanin production as a result

effect is hardly perceptible to the

a member of the Brassicaceae

the ageing process. Two types

of an increased expression of

eye, as the contrast between the

family, their high isothiocyanate

of pigments give the age spot its

the signalling molecules ET-1

pigmented and non-pigmented

sulforaphane content acts

characteristic dark brown colour:

and SCF, which are expressed

skin remains the same.

as an indirect antioxidant.4

lipofuscin and melanin. UV

normally in healthy keratinocyte

radiation leads to the formation

Active Ingredients and Antioxidants

induce the expression of many

of reactive oxygen species

cells.1 The exposure of cells to ROS

(ROS) and free radicals. The

also leads to oxidation as well

Delentigo is a cosmetic

participate in the recycling

latter interact with keratinocyte

as the aggregation of proteins

active ingredient targeted

and maintenance of direct

cells, which are located

and lipids. These aggregations

specifically towards age spots.

antioxidants such as vitamin C

predominantly in the outer layer

form insoluble yellow-brown

It is a combination of the soy

and vitamin E. Thus, sulforaphane

of the epidermis. The effect of

pigments known as lipofuscin.

isoflavone, genistein, and a

helps to enhance cellular

ROS on keratinocytes induces

Usually, these oxidized proteins

garden cress sprout extract.

detoxification from free radicals

the production and release

are recognized and degraded

Genistein is a well-known natural

and ROS, the two most common

Age spots arise because of

This compound is able to cytoprotective proteins, which

UV-induced mediators involved

Figure 1: Signalling mediators involved in the formation of lipofuscin and melanin in age spots.

Figure 2: Stimulatory effect of the cress sprout extract on proteasome activity.

in the formation of lipofuscin and melanin. In young cress sprout seedlings, the concentration of sulforaphane is 20–50 times higher than in the mature, fully grown cress sprout plant. As a result, it comes as no surprise that the 5 day old garden cress sprout forms the basis of the raw material for the production of Delentigo. The second way in which garden cress sprouts can reduce the appearance of age spots stems from the observation that they can inhibit a-MSH-induced melanin synthesis. The latter was assessed in a cell-based assay

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2013

Figure 3: Effect on the melanin index after 4 weeks of treatment with a cream containing 4% Delentigo.

Figure 4: Effect on the melanin index after 8 weeks of treatment with a cream containing 4% Delentigo.

Figure 5: Photos of age spots on the hand of a volunteer, before and after treatment.

with B16 murine melanoma cells

young fibroblasts, the measured

index in the normally pigmented

between keratinocytes and

that were cultivated in a 96-well

proteasome activity was 15%

skin treated with Delentigo

melanocytes. It is the overall

plate for 72 h in the presence of a

higher than in old cells. This result

(compared with the placebo).

overexpression of these signalling

stable derivative of a-MSH. After

corresponds to the theory of the

These results show that Delentigo

molecules that contributes to

incubation, the melanin content

decline in proteasome activity

can significantly lighten age

the formation of age spots.

was analysed by measuring the

during ageing. Similarly, 4 hours

spots without affecting non-

In addition, the cress sprouts

optical density at 405 nm and

after incubation with a 0.33%

pigmented discoloured skin.

extract acts as a stimulator of

the cell viability was calculated

concentration of the cress sprout

A second double-blind,

the proteasome system, thus

using the MTT colorimetric assay.

extract, the proteasome activity

placebo-controlled study was

helping to reduce the formation

Results revealed that melanin

in old fibroblasts was increased

done on 12 Caucasian volunteers

of accumulated aggregates of

formation was strongly inhibited

by 70%. Ultimately, this suggests

aged 40 to 66. During a period

the ageing pigment lipofuscin.

in the presence of a 0.4% cress

that stimulating proteasome

of 8 weeks, a cream containing

The end result of the combined

sprout extract. Inhibition was

activity helps to prevent and

4% Delentigo was applied

use of these active ingredients

shown to be dose-dependent

reduce the accumulation of

twice daily to one hand of the

is the reduced formation and

and not a consequence of a

oxidized proteins and thus the

volunteers. Prior to treatment,

appearance of undesirable age

cytotoxic effect — as confirmed

formation of lipofuscin in the cell.

age spots had on average

spots.

by cell viability in the MTT assay.

a 26% higher melanin index

Interestingly, the cress sprout

Spot the Difference

compared with the surrounding

extract did not affect the activity

The effectiveness of Delentigo

skin (Figure 4). After the 8 week

of isolated human tyrosinase as

was demonstrated in an in vivo

treatment period, however,

tested in an in vitro assay. This

study using 10 healthy volunteers

this difference was reduced to

suggests that the cress sprout

(aged 47 to 77). A cream

16.5%. Close-up photographs

extract inhibits the binding

containing a concentration

taken before and after treatment

of a-MSH to its receptor on

of 4% Delentigo was applied

reveal a visible colour fading of

melanocytes without interfering

twice daily for 4 weeks on

age spots, resulting in a more

with other cellular functions.

three defined age spots of sizes

even skin tone (Figure 5).

between 6 and 10 mm, as well

Fluorescing Proteins

as three surrounding non-

Conclusion

pigmented skin areas of a similar

Delentigo is an antiageing

In a Proteasome-Glo luminescent

size on one hand. The other hand

product designed specifically

Assay (Promega) the cress sprout

was treated accordingly with a

for the treatment of age spots.

extract was shown to stimulate

placebo. Melanin pigmentation

It does this by preventing the

proteasome activity, which

was measured using the Skin

formation of the two pigments

is key for the degradation of

Pigmentation Analyzer SPA99,

lipofuscin and melanin,

aggregated proteins (Figure 2).

which are characteristically

The test was performed using

Khaza specifically for the

overproduced in age spots. The

normal human dermal fibroblast

analysis of small areas of skin.

active ingredient sulforaphane

cells and a proteasome substrate

The discolouration of age spots

in cress sprout inhibits the activity

fluorescence label known as

from melanin pigmentation was

of the UV-induced paracrine

aminoluciferin, which fluoresces

examined at the beginning of

factor a-MSH, a stimulator of

brightly in the presence of the

the study and repeated after

melanin production. Moreover,

enzyme luciferase. The activity

4 weeks. The results revealed

sulforaphane acts as a promoter

of the proteasomal system is

that age spots treated with

for the cell’s own defence

noted by the separation of

Delentigo had a 6.2% lower

against oxidative stress. The other

the substrate from the enzyme

melanin index compared with

active ingredient genistein, an

and results in a luminescent

age spots that were treated with

isoflavone, is a known tyrosine

signal that is proportional to the

the placebo cream (Figure 3).

kinase inhibitor that has been

amount of proteasome activity in

Most importantly, no difference

implicated in reducing cytokine

the cells. Results revealed that in

was observed for the melanin

signalling of SCF and ET-1

2013 JANUARY/FEBRUARY

references

1. G. Costin, et al., “Human Skin Pigmentation: Melanocytes Modulate Skin Color in Response to Stress,” FASEB J. 21, 976–994 (2007). 2. V. Vernace, et al., “Aging and Regulated Protein Degradation: Who Has the UPPer Hand?” Aging Cell. 6, 599–606 (2007). 3. P. Blume-Jensen, et al., “Activation of the Human C-Kit Product by Ligand-Induced Dimerization Mediates Circular Actin Reorganization and Chemotaxis,” EMBO J. 10, 4121–4128 (1991). 4. P. Talalay, et al., “Sulforaphane Mobilizes Cellular Defenses That Protect Skin Against Damage by UV Radiation,” Proc. Natl Acad. Sci. USA 104, 17500–17505 (2007).

For more information Jasmin Lozza International Sales Manager Mibelle Biochemistry Bolimattstr.1 CH-5033 Buchs, Switzerland. Tel. +41 62 836 1357 Jasmin.Lozza@mibellegroup.com www.mibellebiochemistry.com

antiageing

The Ancient Power of Dragon Fruit: Preserving Youth and Preventing Ageing Dragon Fruit (Hylocereus undatus) is a pitaya, a species of cactus. Recently, it has been dubbed the “fruit of the 21st century,” owing to its increasing popularity worldwide, attributed to its exotic tasty fruits and distinctive magnificent flowers.1,2 Originating in South America, these fruits are cultivated and grown in Israel where research has been done and their beneficial properties investigated.1–3 Its fruit juice is used to treat urinary tract infections, and dragon fruit extracts are often used as a remedy to treat cardiovascular problems such as hypertension and psychological anxiety. More recently, the Dragon Fruit’s antiproliferative benefits have been shown to promote the appearance of younger and healthier skin. Is slowing down cell proliferation the answer to antiageing?

he majority of

be to target the mechanisms

cell proliferation inhibitors

disorders such as psoriasis,

antiageing cosmetic

that slow down the rate of

are responsible for evoking

an inflammatory skin disease

products on the

cell division and subsequent

dormancy in plants during

known for its rapid epidermal

market today aim

telomeric shortening. By

periods of environmental stress,

cell turnover. In the case

to provide a “dual

slowing cell proliferation within

such as during exposure to cold

of Dragon Fruit, the liquid

action” of maintaining a

the epidermis, it prolongs the

weather in winter. Research

surrounding the seeds is a

youthful skin complexion while

life span of the matured cells

has shown that these extracts,

rich source of the dormin

simultaneously protecting

in the epidermal layer. Once

when taken from plants during

proliferation inhibitor and,

the skin from external

matured, the differentiated

their dormant stage, have

consequently, the extract of

environmental aggressors. In

cells in the outer horny layer

favourable antiproliferative

this ancient fruit can be added

the epidermis of the skin, cell

have a greater ability to

effects on human skin cells.

to various cosmeceutical

proliferation occurs in the basal

protect the tissues located in

The use of these dormins

antiageing products.

layer and cells differentiate

the lower layers of the dermis.

in antiageing products is

and mature as they migrate

This protection prevents

suggested as being key to

through the epidermis. This

damage caused by exposure

slowing the rate of skin cell

Inhibition of Cell Proliferation

function is essential for skin

from environmental influences,

ageing and thus maintaining

Research done by IBR Ltd

renewal and repair. The cells

such as UV irradiation

the appearance of a youthful

using IBR-Dragon, containing

reach full maturation when

and other DNA damaging

skin complexion. Moreover,

a 5% concentration of Dragon

they reach the external skin

agents, which are known

it has additional benefits in

Fruit dormins, showed the

surface to form the protective

to significantly affect skin

treating hyperproliferative cell

antiproliferative activity on

horny layer.

ageing. 8,9 Although the term

Figure 1: Average variation in skin intensity (* = p<0.05).

“dormancy” is frequently used

cells have a finite capacity to

in association with plants, it

0.9

can also be used in reference

0.8

replicate.

4,5

This concept stems

from other ideas surrounding

to animals. In the latter,

biological ageing, such as

dormancy in animals and

hypotheses that indicate

humans is generally defined as

0.6

chromosomal telomere length

a specific condition of arrested

0.5

as a marker of biological

cell growth in which growth

ageing. With each cycle of

functions are slowed and

0.4

cell division, the length of the

cell proliferation is inhibited.

telomeres shortens; as such,

When the period of dormancy

0.2

they act like a ‘molecular

or cell cycle arrest is over,

clock,’ limiting a cell’s capacity

cell proliferation and growth

0.1

to replicate. 6,7 A sensible

resume. In plants, compounds

solution to antiageing would

known as “dormins,” natural

0.7 Skin intensity (%)

The Hayflick theory of ageing suggests that normal human

0.3

Placebo

Dragon Fruit

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2013

both plant cells and human

which cacti grow. These

dermal fibroblast skin cells.

polysaccharides provide

Other research indicated that

an additional tightening

in both cases the effect was

sensation and confer other

dose dependent; the higher

moisturization properties.

the concentration of the

Originally, the beneficial

dormin containing extract, the

effects and applications

larger the inhibitory effect it

of IBR-Dragon were

had on cellular proliferation.

tested in vivo using image

As a result, the rationale

analysis from VISIA CR,

of using the Dragon Fruit

which is used to give a

extract in antiproliferative

visual representation of

preparations in antiageing

a variety of skin metrics

cosmetics is understandable.

such as texture, evenness

The IBR-Dormin technology

and colour analysis. The

acts to preserve the youth

study was a double-

of skin cells and preserve

blind placebo controlled

telomere length without

study whereby a panel

interfering with other cellular

of 12 healthy female

mechanisms and intracellular

volunteers (aged 52–60)

machinery. As a result,

were randomly assigned to

cells are kept at a younger

apply a 5% concentration

chronological age state with

of IBR-Dragon cream

compared with baseline.

notable improvements to the

containing the Dragon Fruit

Moreover, after the 28 day

appearance of the skin, giving

extract or a placebo cream

period, those who had applied

rise to a more luminescent and

onto either the left or right side

the cream containing 5%

bright skin complexion.

of the face, twice daily for a

IBR‑Dragon had significantly

total of 28 days.

more luminescent skin

Skin Ageing: The Research

overall shine and provide

As the IBR-Dragon dragon

a “matte” finish was also

fruit extract originates

examined. This was measured

Conclusion

from a species of cactus,

by exposing sections of the

The cream containing 5%

it also contains additional

skin to polarized light from

IBR‑Dragon, when applied

natural polysaccharides

the VISIA CR and repeated

twice daily during a period

that have been adapted

daily, from baseline (day 0) to

of 28 days, was shown to

to aid survival and act as a

day 28. Results revealed an

significantly brighten the

defence mechanism against

improvement in skin luminosity

complexion of the skin. Other

the harsh environment in

after the full 28 days of use,

polysaccharides that exist

The ability to reduce the

compared with those who had received placebo.

naturally within the cactibased fruit contribute to its

Figure 2: Increase in skin intensity (brightening/luminescence) with active cream at day 28 compared with baseline.

additional benefits, including moisturizing and skin firming, which are beneficial attributes

in all cosmeceutical products that target the physical signs of skin ageing.

For more information

Day 0

Day 28

2013 JANUARY/FEBRUARY

Dr Liki von Oppen-Bezalel VP Business Development and Marketing IBR Ltd 4 Pekeris Street, Tamar Science Park Rehovot 76702, Israel. Tel. +972 3 516 5432 ibroffice@ibrweb.com www.ibrweb.com

references

1. E. Raveh, et al., “Pitayas (Genus Hylocereus): A New Fruit Crop for the Negev Desert of Israel,” in J. Janick and J. Simon (Eds), New Crops (Wiley, New York, New York, USA, 1993) pp 491–495. 2. Y. Mizrahi, et al., “New Fruits for Arid Climates,” in J. Janick and A. Whipkey (Eds),Trends in New Crops and New Uses (ASHS Press, Alexandria, Virginia, USA, 2002) pp 378–384. 3. Y. Mizrahi, et al., “Metaxenia in the Vine Cacti Hylocereus polyrhizus and Selenicereus spp,” Ann. Bot. 93(4) 469–672 (2004). 4. L. Hayflick, et al., “The Serial Cultivation of Human Diploid Cell Strains,” Exp. Cell Res. 25, 585–621 (1961). 5. L. Hayflick, et al., “Current Theories of Biological Aging,” Fed. Proc. 34, 9–13 (1975). 6. A. Bondar, et al., “Extension of Life Span by Introduction of Telomerase into Human Cells,” Science 279, 349–352 (1998). 7. K. Buchkovich, “Telomeres, Telomerase and Cell Cycle,” Prog. Cell Cycle Res. 2, 187–195 (1996). 8. J. Campisi, “Replicative Senescence: An Old Lives’ Tale?” Cell 84, 497–500 (1996). 9. B.A. Gilchrest, et al., “Premature Aging Affecting the Skin,” in B.A. Gilchrest (Ed.), Skin and Aging Process (CRC Press Inc., Boca Raton, Florida, USA, 1984) pp 57–66.

skincare

In Industry: face matters

Beauty therapist, Sally Curson, Creator and Founder of the Face Matters skincare range reports on her “Antiageing Elixir,” which consists of a mixture of botanical oils and mineral collagen.

have been a beauty

brands to begin tailoring

of silica, rich in collagen,

therapist for more than

my facials specifically to the

and superactive botanical

20 years and, in that

individual. The results I began

oils specially chosen for their

time, have worked with

to see were spectacular. I

antiageing properties with

many top-of-the-range

began mixing small bottles of

care and attention to the

professional skincare brands.

facial oils for clients’ needs

needs of ageing skin. Our

At the age of 40, I began to

and, when used together

supremely effective Antiageing

suffer from rosacea, which

with the organic silica, within

Elixir is a potent formula

was triggered by some severe

a matter of weeks, ladies

of botanical oils and pure

stress in my personal life. I

who for years had suffered

mineral collagen. Every active

began taking a keen interest

from dry sensitive skin and

ingredient in this product

in product ingredients and was

rosacea were experiencing

has been chosen with care

amazed and disappointed with

a huge improvement. I made

and attention to the needs

my discoveries. After attending

a conscious decision to step

of ageing skin. For instance,

a trade fair for natural and

away from ineffective bulking

argan oil, which is rich in

organic product ingredients,

agents and, instead, carefully

vitamin E and essential fatty

I was given some samples of

selected a range of oils … each

acids, camellia, which has

organic silica. I began mixing

of which had a substantial

deeply nourishing properties,

this with the botanical oils I

nourishing and healing effect

borage, which contains GLA

was using in my own bespoke

on the skin.

to revitalize ageing skin and

floral facials. At the time, I was

rosehip to heal and provide an effective antioxidant.

room in Hampshire (UK) and

Pure Natural Silica

had stepped away from big

The pure natural silica that

geranium, jasmine, lemon and

I have sourced helps to

mandarin not only soothe the

stimulate the production of

skin but also uplift emotions

collagen and elastin in the

and, most importantly, the

skin. Derived from one of

inclusion of pure organic

the Earth’s most abundant

silicon is included to stimulate

minerals, organic silicon really

the production of collagen

is a miracle mineral. It works

and elastin. This is an ultimate

on many different levels,

mix of antiageing ingredients.

playing an important role in

As a result, the product has

connective tissue formation,

to be shaken vigorously

bone, hair, skin, nails, joints

before use to distribute the

and cardiovascular. Extensive

collagen throughout the Elixir.

international research confirms

A few drops used morning

that silicon increases epidermal

and evening over the face

thickness and skin elasticity,

and neck leave skin feeling

improving the structure of

soft, smooth, nourished and

ageing skin, fragile hair and

luminous.

working out of my treatment

Application Guide

Cleansing Balm Our super gentle nourishing Cleansing Balm includes shea butter rose, jasmine, mandarin and geranium, lemon oils and a blend of pure mineral collagen. This gently removes makeup and the grime of the day. After massaging into the face and neck for 1–2 minutes, it can be rinsed off with warm water. Skin will be left feeling cleansed, refreshed, incredibly soft, radiant and ready to nourish. Pure Collagen Spritz The Pure Collagen Spritz can be used on a daily basis to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin. It can be spritzed over the face and neck with eyes closed, morning and evening after cleansing and before application of the Elixir. Respritz during the day as and when the skin begins to feel fatigued. Overall, the use of the Pure Collagen Spritz can be used to transform the quality of the skin and to revitalize the complexion.

brittle nails. Collagen is made up of silica and, as we age, the source of silica becomes exhausted, causing wrinkles and dry skin. Building up silica levels and stimulating collagen is the key. Face Matters products are a pure blend of high levels

The additional aromas of

For more information

Sally Curson Face Matters Two Bays 39 West Street, Alresford SO24 9AB, UK. Tel. +44 1962 735 876 info@facematters-skincare.com www.facematters-skincare.com

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2013

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ANTIAGEING

The Science of Skin Ageing As the largest organ in the body, the skin plays a vital role in protecting the body from the surrounding environment, as well as playing a crucial role in the homeostatic control of body temperatures and water content. These functions derive from the skin’s unique properties that determine its strength, flexibility, elasticity and impermeability. The human body is subjected to an oxidant/antioxidant balance; however, as we age, an imbalance occurs between the production of radicals and our natural ability to neutralize these reactive species. Ultimately, this leads to visible signs of skin ageing.

kin ageing is

can accelerate skin ageing.

lipid peroxidation, whereby a

O 2• –. The second is to act in the

an inevitable

High concentrations of ROS in

radical interacts with a lipid

middle of the oxidative chain

phenomenon. It

proteins, DNA and lipids in the

membrane and “steals” an

and prevent the formation of

occurs as a result

skin make them a vulnerable

electron, therefore disrupting

ROO• … and therefore reduce

of both intrinsic

target to oxidative damage,

the integrity of the membrane.

the consequential oxidative

and extrinsic factors. Intrinsic

and research suggests they

ageing is thought to be

play a role in diseases such as

oxidative stress and induces

genetically programmed. It

skin cancers amongst others.

non-reversible damage to cells

leads to natural skin changes

In excess, ROS leads to

stresses.

and even organelles, such

Antioxidant Defence

that affect cellular integrity,

Radical Damage

as cellular mitochondria. The

As developed by Activ’Inside,

such as a reduction in collagen

Free radicals such as ROS

formation and insult of ROS

SkinAx 2 consists of the

and elastin constituents

are formed by a cascade of

is a vicious cycle, enhancing

antioxidant enzyme superoxide

and a decrease in fibroblast

reactions starting with the

the production of free

dismutase (SOD), which is

activity. Furthermore, there

superoxide anion (O 2• ), the

radicals by lipid membrane

extracted from French melon.

is a reduction in the amount

most reactive oxidant molecule

peroxidation and other protein

In addition to this, another well-

of enzymatic antioxidants

and a key player in free radical

oxidation reactions. To prevent

known antioxidant, flavanols,

and a decrease in skin

production. O 2• – can induce

against oxidative stress and

are extracted from French

vascularization. In contrast,

the formation of the hydroxyl

its deleterious effects, cells

grape seeds and combined

extrinsic ageing is dependent

radical (OH•), an effective

possess several biological

with zinc. As a result, SkinAx 2

on environmental factors such

oxidant that can subsequently

systems including antioxidant

is specifically formulated to

as the exposure of UV radiation

induce the formation of other

defences that have two

be highly effective against

to the skin.

destructive radicals, such

complementary mechanisms.

skin ageing (Figure 1), as it

as peroxyl radicals (ROO•)

The first aim in this defence is

acts as both an effective

that are formed as a result of

to prevent the generation of

primary and secondary

This generates Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) that

–

antioxidant. Moreover, oral

Figure 1: Synergic antioxidant and protective effects of SkinAx2.

supplementation of both zinc and the flavanols have further skin protecting propertie. SOD is a key metalloprotein, essential for many biological processes. Furthermore, it is a primary antioxidant that is key to providing initial protection of cells against oxidative insult. It converts extremely reactive O 2• – into hydrogen peroxide (H 2O 2) and water (Figure 2). As demonstrated by 50 years of international research, flavanols have been shown to

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2013

Figure 2: The breakdown of antioxidants into harmless byproducts by antioxidant enzyme SOD.

bibliography

have a high bioavailability

is significantly improved,

health. The adapted zinc

and properties similar

ensuring an enhanced

content as found in SkinAx 2

to those of a secondary

distribution of oxygen and

is supported by EFSA, who

antioxidant. Flavanols affect

nutrition of the upper dermal

validated claims that suggest

ROS production in the middle

layers of the skin. The high

zinc is essential “to the

of the oxidative chain and

flavanol content of SkinAx 2

maintenance of normal skin.”

complement the defensive

gives rise to its beneficial

antioxidant activity of SOD.

properties leading to an

Conclusion

They help to protect skin’s

enhanced appearance of

Oral Supplementation

cellular components and

firmer skin.

SkinAx 2 enhances the tissues

prevent the degradation

Similarly, zinc is recognized

1. C. Rocquet, et al., “Molecular Aspects of Skin Ageing: Recent Data,” Acta Dermatoven. 11(3), 71–94 (2002). 2. J. Pincemail, et al., “Stress Oxydant, Antioxydants Nutritionnels et Vieillissement,” Act. Med. Int. - Métabolismes Hormones - Nutrition. 4, 158–164 (2001). 3. B. Poljsak, et al., “Free Radicals and Extrinsic Skin Aging,” Dermatology Research and Practice 4, 135–206 (2012). 4. R. Kohen, “Skin Antioxidants: Their Role in Aging and in Oxidative Stress — New Approaches for their Evaluation,” Biomed. Pharmacother. 53(4), 181–192 (1999).

antioxidant content and

of antioxidant enzymes. In

by the European Food

thus protects against the

addition, flavanols support the

Safety Authority (EFSA) as

consequences of intrinsic

integrity of blood capillaries

an active ingredient for skin

ageing. It also preserves skin

in the skin by increasing

preservation. A cause and

cells from ROS damage —

vascular resistance and

effect relationship has been

preventing extrinsic ageing

decreasing dermal capillaries

established between the

— and thus maintains strength,

permeability. As a result, blood

dietary intake of zinc and its

flexibility, elasticity and the

circulation to the skin surface

necessity for all-round skin

overall integrity of the skin.

For more information

Cécile Fremont Innovative Project Manager Activ’Inside Tel. +33 5 3554 1561 c.fremont@activinside.com www.activinside.com

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RECRUIT changethings

ETHICAL SOURCING

A Trace of Vanilla Approximately 80% of the world’s vanilla demand is grown in Madagascar. Thousands of farmers depend on the beans for their livelihoods and many of them work with Symrise — the only flavour manufacturing company that’s fully integrated into the Madagascan economy.

study in 2011 — together with

ready. Some middlemen make

many growers, this makes a trip

the German development

the most of this opportunity.

to the doctor affordable for

agency, Deutsche

For Symrise, this reduces the

the very first time. Also, Symrise

very year, thousands

Gesellschaft für Internationale

availability of high-grade

funds part of the salaries paid

of Madagascan

Zusammenarbeit (GIZ). They

vanilla, the quality of which

to more than 30 teachers at a

farmers pollinate

talked to many hundreds of

depends on its level of maturity.

total of ten schools and also

millions of blossoms

farmers about what would

So, the company is supplying

helps parents to pay school

by hand. After the

constitute a “fair price” for their

rice on credit to the farmers,

fees by footing a third of the

harvest, more than 6000 of

vanilla to supply a high-quality

which they pay back at a fair

bill. In this way, Symrise is

them sell their beans to Symrise,

product and enable them to

rate when they harvest the

already offering about 2600

one of the largest purchasers

afford social standards such

vanilla. At the same time, the

children access to education.

of vanilla from the island.

as healthcare and a school

company is preparing projects

Right there, Symrise ferments

education for their children.

to step up the sustainable

is investing in the value of

With these initiatives, Symrise

and extracts the vanilla, thus

To earn the native farmers’

production of rice in the

vanilla and the sustainable

keeping a significant part of

trust, Symrise has endeavoured

local area and offer farmers

future of a community in which

the value chain in the country.

to establish links and create a

additional sources of income

the company lives and works.

Based on its co-operation

partnership with them, which

via diversification. Workshops

Its close partnership with

with the farmers, Symrise has

encompasses ecological,

are held to teach the farmers

farmers offers the company

learned a lot about their needs

economic and social aspects.

about growing additional

a secure, long-term supply

and challenges. To support

This gives the company an

crops. By doing so, Symrise is

of raw materials, maximum

them, the company has been

important competitive edge.

helping to improve the families’

traceability, top quality and

working with development aid

Permanently safeguarding

food supply and simultaneously

yields. This way, Symrise and its

organizations, various NGOs

raw materials is one of the

reduce the risk of important

partners are enhancing value

and local farmers’ associations

motivating factors behind

forested land being cleared.

for everyone involved: for the

for many years to make

its sustainability policy and

Madagascar’s vanilla business

working towards a fair price is

sustainable for both the people

just one part of this strategy,

Investing in the Value of Vanilla

and the environment.

supplemented by targeted

Another Symrise project is

activities supporting nutrition,

health insurance for the

diversification, health and

vanilla growers. For this, the

education.

company works with a local

Showing Commitment Symrise reinvests part of the

farmers and their communities, clients and consumers … and Symrise itself.

insurance company and an

revenue it generates with

Acting Responsibly

NGO. For about 500 families,

vanilla products around

Until now, farmers have

Symrise pays their insurance

the world in local social

sometimes been forced to

premium and the plan refunds

and ecological projects.

sell unripe vanilla to buy rice,

more than half of the medical

For example, the company

which means they use up their

expenses incurred by the

conducted a socio-economic

supplies before the harvest is

farmers and their families. For

For more information

Christina Witter Senior Manager, Corporate Communications Symrise Tel. +49 5531 902 182 christina.witter@symrise.com www.symrise.com

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2013

delisens

™

Sensitive skin without signs

Stinging score

10.4%

25.0%

3 2 1 0

Initial time

1 hour

7 days

This innovative hexapeptide demonstrated in vitro a reduction of 58.2% in the release of inflammatory cytokines, induced by cosmetic allergens, after applying a cream containing 4% Delisens™ Solution. While helping the skin to recover its physiological tolerance threshold it attenuates feelings of discomfort which characterizes sensitive skin. The stinging feeling, when induced by acid lactic 1h after a topical treatment with 2% Delisens™ Solution, decreased a mean of 10.4%, as shown in vivo.

ETHICAL SOURCING

Modelling Software: Improving THE Sustainability PERFORMANCE OF PRODUCTS

Software, content and consulting firm PE International has revealed that the main answer to environmental sustainability is to constantly update material supply chain data — a huge resource of encyclopedic, high quality industry relevant data. Reliable data is the key element of the latest version of its market-leading software GaBi 6 and Databases ’12. This unrivalled data is based on 21 years of sustainability experience, industry collaboration and expertise. Access to it is essential to help manufacturers make the best decisions with regards to designing products that are optimized for sustainability throughout the entire product lifecycle — from cradle to grave.

rom a matchstick to

Indeed, 80% of sustainability

vital to generating robust results

entire line and bestsellers, to

mobile phone to a

leaders gain a competitive

quickly.” Real clients with real

evaluate environmental impacts.

motorcar, GaBi allows

advantage from investing in

needs collaborated to update

As a result, Pureology was able

product manufacturers

sustainable products. The drivers

GaBi 6 to deliver the potential of

to decrease the energy use in

to not only refine

to adopt sustainable practices in

improved product sustainability

packaging by roughly 42% and

the environmental credentials

business are gaining momentum,

performance. Ramon Arratia,

increase the recycled material

of products they themselves

from increasing consumer desire

Sustainability Director EMEAI/

content from 25% to 50%.

manufacture, but extends those

for more sustainable products to

InterfaceFLOR, commented:

benefits across the supply chain.

growing government legislation

“Everybody is talking about

their supply chain to ensure that

It assesses raw materials and

and regulations. GaBi delivers

embedding sustainability.

their products complied with the

manufacturing processes and

long-term business value,

However, sustainability is not

highest international standards.

helps to identify improvement

from satisfying initial material

embedded until it is in your

In doing so, the amount of water

areas such as usage of water

comparison and screening

product. We measure this using

needed in the formulation stage

and energy and the reduction

requirements to advanced

LCA and GaBi Software.”

decreased, as some ingredients

of carbon emissions in product

process and resource efficiency,

manufacturing. By evaluating

and ultimately complete value

social, environmental and

chain optimization.

economic impacts for all phases

Pete Girard, Product Manager,

Pureology also engaged with

had required large amounts of

Pureology: Greener Hair Care Innovation

water for processing. In addition to the LCA, PE International also provided the team with

of a product’s lifecycle, the

GaBi Software of PE International

PE International worked with

scenario modelling software

GaBi 6 supply of constantly

commented: “It’s critical for

Pureology Serious Colour Care,

to help evaluate the potential

updated data provides users with

businesses to communicate

a professional hair care product

sustainability impacts of new

a certified triple win: for them, for

exact and proven sustainability

line owned by L’Oréal, to help

product innovations.

PE and for the planet. With more

information that’s important to

them support their vision to

than 7000 users, 40% of the global

customers. Today, Life Cycle

provide superior colour care

Fortune 500 companies, and

Assessment (LCA) results are used

products made with 100% vegan

90% of the world’s recognized

across organizations to steer

ingredients while improving

‘green’ brands as customers,

decisions on product design and

their product sustainability

GaBi is by some margin the most

material choices that improve

performance. Sustainability is

widely used product sustainability

sustainability performance.

viewed as a responsibility, not

solution on the planet.

Our constantly refined and

a luxury. PE International used

expanded GaBi Databases

GaBi Software to conduct an

acknowledge that it makes good

are an integral part of an LCA

LCA of Hydrate Shampoo and

business sense to address product

study because reliable and

Condition, products that are

sustainability performance.

trustworthy sustainability data is

representative of Pureology’s

More and more companies

For more information

Sabine Fischbach Product Marketing PE International Hauptstraße 111–113 D-70771 Leinfelden-Echterdingen Germany. Tel. +49 711 341 817 436 s.fischbach@pe-international.com www.pe-international.com

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2013

ALPAFLOR® EDELWEISS

Discover a new level of protection for an ultimate skin sensation DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd. P.O. Box 2676, 4002 Basel Switzerland Phone: +41 61 815 7777 Fax: +41 61 815 7860 Email: marketing.dnpe@dsm.com www.dsmnutritionalproducts.com

Exposure to strong UV radiation and extremes of temperature in its mountain habitat has made Edelweiss an expert in self-protection. To optimize the cosmetic performance of Edelweiss DSM created a new Edelweiss variety, Leontopodium Alpinum ‘Helvetia’, the base for its ALPAFLOR® EDELWEISS extracts. Extended in vitro assays show that these extracts stimulate key genes and proteins in the cornified envelope for optimal skin protection. Additionally ALPAFLOR® EDELWEISS rebalances UV-induced stress markers to normal levels and enhances skin’s resistance to external stress factors, preserving its natural balance for an ultimate skin sensation.

SKINCARE

Easing an Itch the Natural Way: Living with Eczema Eczema affects more than 8 million people in the UK, impacting on both physical and mental health. With the incidence and prevalence of cases on the rise, there is a growing demand for a natural alternative treatment that avoids the harsh chemical constituents that are commonly included in various cosmetics and toiletries. Allerg y UK and the National Pharmacy Association have recently approved the skincare range, MediCleanse, which contains natural sustainably sourced ingredients gathered from all over the world, each with unique antimicrobial, antioxidant and moisturizing properties.

he term eczema is

65 are prone to skin irritation in

used to describe

relation to health complications

many different skin

such as hypertension and

conditions that share

poor circulation. In general,

the same presenting

solving these irritations requires

symptoms of red, itchy and

a twofold approach. The first

dry skin, but with different

is to alleviate the symptoms,

underlying pathologies. The

the second to remove the

most common type of eczema

cause or trigger from the

is known as atopic dermatitis,

immediate environment.

caused by a delayed induced

Overall prevention depends

sensitivity to the exposure of

on the underlying causes,

an allergen. In the latter, dust

which in most cases is

mites and chemical-based

multifactorial. Recently, Bio-Life

preservatives (as found in

has developed Allergy UK and

cosmetics and toiletries) are

National Pharmacy Association

two of the main allergens

approved products based on

known to cause atopic

negatively charged surfactants

dermatitis in small children and

and natural acaricides

babies. Similarly, hormonal

that aim to target common

changes that occur during

eczema-causing irritations. For

puberty and emotional stress

instance, the dust mites found

during adolescence can lead

in mattresses, bedclothes and

to seborroeic dermatitis, with

other soft furnishings in the

the characteristic symptom

home.

of scalp dandruff. Other

young mothers, who are also

The Power of Nature Around the Globe

susceptible to skin inflammation

It is apparent that, in most

owing to humid weather,

cases, there is a primary trigger

aspirin and oral contraceptives.

to the cause of irritation.

stress-related influences can cause dyshidrotic dermatitis in

During the past decade,

However, not only are

the young and hormonally

Bio-Life scientists have done

challenged susceptible to

research exploring non-irritant

this condition. The elderly are

alternatives to treat common

prone to nummular dermatitis,

triggers that act to gently

which is aggravated by cold

cleanse and restore skin

weather and chemicals in

health. Since then, Allergy UK

cosmetics. Likewise, men

and the National Pharmacy

between the ages of 55 and

Association have approved

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2013

a “Chemical Friendly”

effect often associated with

remove thick layers of cells or

properties. Its high antioxidant

skincare range that contains

common chemical-based

scar tissue from the surface of

content further enhances skin

natural sustainably sourced

topical treatments for eczema.

the skin to allow aeration. In

healing and prevents scarring.

essence, the ingredient is key

The moisturizing properties of

for initiating skin repair.

coconut oil can be obtained

ingredients. The formulation

Other Icelandic lichen,

began in Kenya when David

known therapeutically to

Munden, a Body Shop Chemist

provide protection against

and Kuki Gallman, author and

infection, grow natively in

that promote skin repair to

which indicates its suitability

environmentalist, began to

the arctic tundra of British

prevent scarring is wheat bran

of application for both babies

investigate the therapeutic

Columbia, North America,

and flax-derived phytic acid.

and children.

properties of indigenous plants

Alaska and Iceland. Whole

It is rich in antioxidants and, as

growing in the Rift Valley of

lichen can be collected and

with willow bark extract, can

Conclusion

Kenya. The first medicinal

extracted by solvent and then,

aid in the removal of dead skin,

The natural ingredients, as

plant examined was Leleshwa,

depending on the weather

thus increasing aeration and

found in MediCleanse, are

commonly used by the Masai

conditions, dried in the sun

reducing bacterial infections.

sourced from around the

and Phuket tribes to treat

or in the shade. The lichen

In addition, the antioxidants

globe and have differing

inflammation, infection and

have powerful antibiotic and

inhibit cellular and bacterial

beneficial properties that aim

oedema. Interestingly, the

antiemetic properties against

multiplication. Unlike the willow

to alleviate the presenting

local rhinoceroses were found

infectious bacterial diseases

bark extracts, some varieties

symptoms of eczema. Not

to be wound and blemish

such as TB or other conditions

of eucalyptus oil contain

only do these ingredients act

free — by no means normal

associated with bacterial

limonene and cineol, which

to reduce inflammation, their

in the bush — and further

infections of the gastrointestinal

are known to cause irritation;

antibacterial properties protect

observation revealed that

tract. Similarly, an extract

however, the leaf oil obtained

against secondary infection.

the animals routinely slept

from Salix alba — a species

from the Tasmanian blue gum

With additional quality

on the Leleshwa bushes and

of willow tree that is common

eucalyptus tree can be used

control measures in place, the

frequently rubbed themselves

throughout the wetlands

safely by allergy sufferers. Other

MediCleanse range represents

on the plant. The essential oils

of the UK and mainland

oils that form waxes can be

one viable treatment for those

from the plant were extracted

Europe — can be obtained by

extracted from shrubs such as

who are chemically sensitive

by steam distillation and

removing and chopping the

jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis),

or in need of protection from

the extracts were found to

bark, doing a solvent-based

which are native to the deserts

infection.

contain high concentrations of

extraction and straining. The

of Arizona. These extracts

antibacterials, antifungals and

extract is a powerful anti-

provide a soothing sensation

antivirals in concentrations so

inflammatory, antioxidant and

to the skin, which is particularly

potent that MRSA and other

analgesic. Most impressively,

beneficial for sufferers with

antibiotic resistant strains of

it has been identified as

sensitive skin and those who

bacteria were eliminated.

an anticancer ingredient.

experience large inflammatory

Clinical trials on patients

Today, it is commonly used to

responses to environmental

revealed that the essential oils

treat respiratory infections,

triggers. In addition, rosehip

did not irritate the skin or invoke

rheumatism, wounds and

oil, as obtained from the fruit

a “stinging” sensation when

poorly healing ulcers, as it is

of the wild rose, which grows

applied to open wounds — a

a natural source of salicyclic

throughout Europe, is known

typical unpleasant and painful

acid. The latter helps to

for its intense moisturizing

2013 JANUARY/FEBRUARY

Other natural ingredients

by cold press harvesting,

For more information

Mary Lloyd and Graham Warmington Bio-Life International Ltd Bio-Life Buildings Upper Grove End Farm Upper Brailes, Banbury OX15 5BA UK. Tel. +44 1608 686 626 MDLloyd@bio-life.co.uk www.biolife-international.co.uk

BUSINESS MATTERS

Talking Money: A Financial View of the UK Health and Beauty SECTOR

Consistent with other sectors, the UK health and beauty market has seen a pronounced shift in merger and acquisition (M&A) activity since the start of the economic recession. Unlike other sectors, however, the reduced number of deals and values in this period has largely lingered with notable deals that are few and far between.

t is a known fact that the

trading appears to have been

message to products geared

a medium- to long-term

economic recession has

reasonable but not spectacular,

towards the luxury high end

perspective. Specifically it is

had a considerable impact

and probably insufficient to

only. With this comes a higher

expected that

on reducing consumer

prevent further insolvencies of

level of differentiation and

confidence and spending,

high street brands. Year‑on‑year

therefore the need to focus on

from private equity as

consequently affecting overall

growth in total consumer

one demographic only. These

the sector continues to

trading. Combined with the

spending for 2012 was just 1.2%,

findings highlight the opportunity

differentiate itself from other

contraction of liquidity, this has

the lowest increase in 40 years.

for buyers and sellers and stress

resulted in larger trade buyers

Despite this, an increase of 1.8% is

the importance of holding both a

tightening their belts and

forecast for 2013.

high street and online presence.

private equity will increase

This would ultimately create a

as investments made before 2010 seek exits as corporate

focusing on consolidation rather

• ongoing interest will come

consumer markets • the pace of sale activity by

than acquisitive expansion. The

Where Do We Stand

recession-proof product, with a

majority of M&A activity between

There are a number of

strong luxury range and a strong

2008 until the present has been

longstanding impressions

focus and separate strategy

by private equity firms investing in

regarding the status of the high

for sales to target different

appetite from banks, who

specialist, discrete market sectors

street. Today, many high street

demographic groups.

will remain cautious for the

in the hope of a wider recovery

retailers are in rapid decline

of the economy, spurring an

owing to the rise in number

Big Name Takeover

increase in valuations ahead of

of online sales, with various

Liz Earle, St Tropez and Urban

by businesses that can

an exit.

big-name stores entering

decay, recently acquired by

provide access to new

The inherent link between the

consolidation programmes.

Avon, PZ Cussons and L’Oréal,

demographics or market

health of the wider economy and

What has been overlooked

respectively, represent one or

the consumer sector continues

until now, however, is the health

more of the three characteristics

Finally, there are opportunities for

(retail spending still accounts for

and beauty sector, which

mentioned previously. Urban

health and beauty companies

more than two thirds of the UK’s

consistently bucks these trends.

Decay, for instance, can

outside the UK. The growth

GDP). Unfortunately, headlines

In contrast with the 1.2% growth

demonstrate all three and as a

in consumer spending in the

in the New Year have not

of spending seen in the wider

result had a significant valuation

BRIC countries, particularly in

been encouraging. Christmas

market, the health and beauty

premium and, consequently,

Russia and Brazil, means there is

sector has a spending growth at

impressive return for its private

potential for expansion through

approximately 6% and is primarily

equity vendor. For others

either acquisition or joint venture.

driven by launches and gift

considering exits, it is wise to

For instance, Indian-based

sets from leading luxury brands

plan ahead as the deal process

acquirers are showing interest in

such as Lancôme, Shiseido and

is often lengthy … and with due

UK businesses. It looks like 2013

Chanel. Only 21% of health and

diligence being potentially

could be a good year for the

beauty sales are online, with

extensive and complex, vendors

health and beauty sector.

consumers still preferring to

need to ensure that they are well

sample a product before buying.

prepared.

Another overlooked issue is the

acquirers return to the market • there will be limited funding

foreseeable future • trade buyers will be attracted

sectors.

Overall, it is clear to see the

continued effects of recessionary

health and beauty market

spending. The health and beauty

is challenging but with huge

sector demonstrates a shift in

promise. The dynamics discussed

trend — from supplying the mass

above mean the sector is well

market and promoting a ‘good

positioned for further M&A,

value for money’ take home

although most likely during

For more information

James England Catalyst Corporate Finance 5th Floor, 12–18 Grosvenor Gardens London SW1W 0DH, UK. Tel. +44 207 881 2960 jamesengland@catalystcf.co.uk www.catalystcf.co.uk

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2013

TECHNOLOGY

Alloy Alloy Alloy CoppeR Copper is essential to human life, required by plants and animals alike to live. It possesses high electrical and thermal conductivity, and can be combined with other metals to create alloys with a broad range of valuable properties. Copper and these alloys, such as brass and bronze, are familiar to all, but there is one property of copper — known to ancient societies and neglected until quite recently — that may come as a surprise: copper will rapidly and completely kill bacteria, viruses and fungi on contact. It is this ‘antimicrobial’ activity that is seeing copper and its alloys tasked with protecting human health in our hospitals today. More recently, however, it has been utilized by the beauty sector, specifically for the benefits that can be obtained from its antimicrobial properties in the production process.

opper has a long history

healthcare facilities, but increasingly by

with this is that compliance with hand

in cosmetics dating back

other industries.

washing protocols is worryingly low amongst

to ancient Egypt when

‘Antimicrobial’ describes the ability to kill or

healthcare workers (a 2012 study showed that

malachite, an oxide of

inactivate microbes, and it is a term of great

75% may not wash their hands enough), let

copper, was used to create

interest in modern healthcare. An estimated

alone patients and visitors. The next step is

green pigmentation for make-up. More

80% of infections spread via contact with

providing a cleaner environment, reducing

recently, copper peptides have become

surfaces such as door handles, taps and

the number of pathogens on surfaces so

popular in products that aim to promote

handrails, and this has led to government

people are less likely to pick them up in the

skin healing and alleviate the symptoms of

campaigns encouraging thorough hand

first place. Regular cleaning and disinfection

certain skin conditions. These peptides can

washing and a ‘catch it, bin it, kill it’

is essential to achieving this, but cannot

be found in antiageing creams, sun tan

approach to reducing contamination in our

solve the problem alone. First, organisms can

and post-tan lotions, aftershaves and even

surroundings. This is particularly challenging

survive in microscopic scratches on a recently

treatments to stimulate hair growth.

in hospitals where infection prevention

cleaned material and continue thriving there

is paramount.

after disinfection. Secondly, even a sterile

Studies suggest that these copper peptide-containing products have a

surface is unlikely to remain clean for long. The second a contaminated hand touches

skin compared with topical applications

Preventing Disease Outbreak

of more traditional dermatological

Implementing good hand hygiene practices

picked up by the next person who touches

treatments, such as vitamin C, tretinoin

is essential is the first step, not only in hospitals

it. For the ideal healthcare environment,

or melatonin. This, however, is just one

but also in daily life. Thoroughly disinfecting

a material is needed that will kill these

of copper’s properties; its powerful

hands will remove or inactivate organisms

organisms 24/7, in between cleans, quickly

antimicrobial efficacy is the latest asset to

living on them and drastically reduce the risk

and completely. That material is copper. The

be explored and exploited, primarily by

of them causing an infection. The problem

hygienic properties of copper were known to

greater effect on the ultrastructure of

it, new organisms are left behind and can be

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2013

and used by the ancient Egyptians, Greeks

pride themselves on cleanliness. On the

and Romans, but it wasn’t until the early

manufacturing side, antimicrobial copper

1990s that a scientist asked the question of

surfaces can be implemented at any

whether copper will be able to kill modern

processing stage when products could

organisms that are threatening health today.

become contaminated with bacteria from the environment. While the food industry is

The Power of Copper

considering where and how to implement

Professor Bill Keevil — a microbiologist and

copper, a South African initiative has

Chair of Environmental Healthcare at the

already found a way to harness copper’s

University of Southampton — studied copper

antimicrobial efficacy for the cosmetics

in his laboratory and found that it would

industry.

indeed kill problem organisms such as Legionella, Influenza A virus, MRSA, C. difficile

Marula Oil Benefits

and many others. His research led to the next

In rural Phalaborwa, oil is extracted from

logical step: finding out whether copper

marula nuts to supply demand from the

would reduce contamination on surfaces

cosmetics market and, in recent years,

outside the laboratory environment in an

concerns have been raised about the

actual hospital.

potential for bacteria from the nuts to be

In 2007, a trial was conducted at Selly

transferred to the oil during the process. At

Oak Hospital in Birmingham, UK. Frequently

the cracking stage, the bacterial infection of

touched items such as door handles, light

the nuts could be transmitted to the kernels

switches, toilet seats and overbed tables

into the oil, and compromise the integrity of

were replaced with copper and copper alloy

products from which it is made. The Palabora

equivalents. It was found there was 90–100%

Foundation, which assists local communities

less contamination on the antimicrobial

with maintaining self-reliance, suggested

copper surfaces than on non-copper

the use of antimicrobial copper, based on

equivalents. These results were backed up

its experience with such touch surfaces at a

by trials in the US and Chile, and further trials

local hospital, to improve the process.

are ongoing across Europe, Japan and South Africa. To the eye, the existence of antimicrobial

Since 2011, brass tables have been introduced to five co-operatives that collect marula fruit to make traditional beer and

copper in hospitals and other healthcare

nuts from which oil will be extracted. The

facilities may not be apparent. Some

copper-topped tables are used at the crucial

copper alloys (such as copper-nickels)

cracking stage, when machines remove

have the appearance of stainless steel,

the hard outer shell of the nut to expose the

so touch surfaces made from them are

kernel, which is then pressed to produce

indistinguishable from non-copper items.

the oil. A representative of the Palabora

To help make it more obvious, and to assist

Foundation explained: “Marula oil has

manufacturers and purchasers to distinguish

tremendous antiageing, skin hydration and

between effective antimicrobial copper

medical benefits that make it very valuable

products and other items on the market, the

to the cosmetics industry. There have been

International Copper Industry developed

concerns that bacteria introduced during

a stewardship scheme. Efficacious alloys,

the process of extracting that oil from

and products made from them, can use

the nuts might be detrimental to the end

the Antimicrobial Copper brand, including

products using it, so we’re taking steps to

a Cu+ mark that gives a visual indicator

minimize the transfer of bacteria from the

of the composition of the product. Most

nuts to the kernels by using antimicrobial

importantly, it has low material costs and

copper tables. We hope that the introduction

can form a variety of copper alloys, giving

of antimicrobial copper surfaces will reduce

rise to different properties that make it easy

the transfer of bacterial infection and form

for manufacturers to work with. In addition,

part of the process to eliminate it entirely.

as the products are solid, there is nothing to

It may be a belt and braces approach,

wear away, and the antimicrobial efficacy

but we need to be sure the oil is free

will last for the lifetime of the product.

from undesirable elements.” At present,

The importance of proper cleaning in

antimicrobial copper surfaces are springing

resorts, day spas and beauty salons to

up in UK hospitals, schools and childcare

prevent the spread of infection between

facilities in Greece and Japan, train stations

customers is well known, and surfaces

and airports in Chile and Brazil and even a

that continuously reduce contamination

veterinary practice in South Africa, but the

in between these cleans could be a

contribution they can make to the cosmetics

desirable selling point for facilities that

industry is in the earliest stages of exploration.

2013 JANUARY/FEBRUARY

For more information

Bryony Samuel Copper Development Association 5 Grovelands Business Centre Hemel Hempstead HP2 7TE, UK. Tel. +44 1442 275 705 bryony.samuel@copperalliance.org.uk www.antimicrobialcopper.org

TECHNOLOGY

Maximum Product Safety in Half the Time

Dr. Müller Pharma, the Czech producer of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, manufactures high quality ointments, gels and creams using a FrymaKoruma Frymix VME 1000C vacuum processing unit. The technolog y impresses with a combination of very short production cycles and maximum product safety.

harmaceutical producer

According to Dr. Müller Pharma, all

kg. Dr. Müller Pharma uses the Frymix

Dr. Müller Pharma manufactures

decisions relating to production are taken

VME 1000C mainly to manufacture gels,

an array of materials including

with user needs in mind. “In the last few

ointments and creams to which tea tree oil

medical devices, pharmaceutical

years, consumers have become more

or herbal extracts, for instance, are added.

products, curative cosmetics

cautious and more critical,” Müller reports,

The heart of the Frymix VME 1000C is a

and food supplements at its Hradec Králové

“and we’ve noticed a growing demand

powerful homogenizer that works according

facility in the Czech Republic. The company,

for natural products.” This differentiation is

to the rotor-rotor principle. As the two rotors

which employs 90 staff, boasts a wide

one of the biggest challenges facing the

rotate in opposite directions, it is possible to

range of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals

pharmaceutical industry … both today

achieve a very high energy input into the

in its portfolio. It has been using Romaco

and in the future. At the same time, the

product. The incremental adjustment of

FrymaKoruma’s Frymix VME 1000C vacuum

calls to keep healthcare affordable are

the conical grinding gap and the stepless

processing unit since 1995. This vaccum

getting louder. An ability to operate flexibly

speed adjustment enable this input to

processing technology impresses with a

and produce efficiently is therefore a must

be precisely defined. All ingredients can

combination of very short production cycles

for pharmaceutical manufacturers. “Our

thus be processed in the required droplet

and maximum product safety for sterile

production cycles have been shortened,

size and distribution. “We’re especially

applications. Dr Vladimír Müller, Managing

which means we can do product changes

convinced by the technical benefits of the

Director of Dr. Müller Pharma, explained:

quickly and make even smaller quantities

FrymaKoruma technology when it comes

“We offer our customers a broad spectrum

profitably. Thanks to the Frymix VME 1000C,

to handling shear-sensitive products as well

of cosmetic and medicinal ointments and

we now have a machine at our disposal

as the considerable time saving during the

creams based on highly active ingredients.”

that lets us concentrate on developing

production process,” enthused Müller.

He continued: “As skin diseases become

innovative formulations based on natural

more and more widespread, owing to

ingredients,” Müller continues.

environmental pollution, there is an increasing

The raw materials are fed to the Frymix VME 1000C through a tube that is attached directly beneath the rotor-rotor system. The fast rotation of the process tool results in a

preparations to treat sensitive skin types.”

Gentle Processing: Key to Consistent Quality

The Frymix VME 1000C gets particularly good

Every year, a massive 220 tons of product is

are swirled up before being passed to the

marks here with its guaranteed product safety

produced on the FrymaKoruma machines

homogenizer. No tools are required for this

and good process results.

in batch sizes varying from 100 to 1000

premixing step, which is designed to improve

demand for ointments and emulsion

fluid mixing chamber in which the materials

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2013

is no risk of overheating or damage. This

for the Frymix VME 1000C. What’s more,

special method of temperature control is

nearly all the machines are connected

another reason for the appreciably shorter

to the FrymaKoruma Service department

production process. Furthermore, a three-

online. In the event of a malfunction, our

point scraper system ensures a homogenous

engineers on site can analyse and rectify

distribution of the product mass.

the problems without any unnecessary

The pressure vessel is fitted with a dished bottom that facilitates an almost continuous

delays,” Müller says. The Frymix VME 1000C has a modular

temperature control. In particular, this makes

architecture and can be individually

it easier to melt fat phases for creams or

adapted to the most diverse customer

ointments and handle smaller quantities of

requirements thanks to a comprehensive

active ingredients.

range of options. It was developed strictly according to cGMP/GAMP specifications.

Maximum Product Safety and intensive Service The completely enclosed design of the Frymix VME 1000C allows the product to circulate internally. It is this that makes the technology ideal for sterile manufacturing processes. This type of construction and the elimination of all external piping create exactly the right conditions for fast, thorough cleaning (CIP) and sterilization (SIP) in place. The risk of cross-contamination is totally ruled the quality of the product. Homogenization

out. The arrangement of the Frymix VME

of the formulation is followed by deaeration

1000C’s individual assemblies likewise meets

directly in the vertical, funnel-shaped guide

the high demands necessary for sterile

cone. The cone geometry guarantees high

processes.

turbulence inside the vessel and ensures

The various machine drives are positioned

that the product is mixed homogenously.

above the vessel lid so that there is no

Owing to the special flow conditions inside

contact between the sealing systems and

the guide cone, the product is transferred

the product flow. This design solution means

to the vessel’s inner wall as a thin film and

a hygienic shaft sealing ring system that is

deaerated optimally as a precondition of

characterized by extreme precision as well

significantly improved product quality and

as high mechanical and thermal resistance.

shorter production cycles.

If desired, however, single or double-acting

The product is either heated or cooled via

mechanical seals can also be chosen in

the inner wall as required. The fact that the

conjunction with barrier fluid systems. “Both

guide cone is integrated in the vessel permits

CIP and SIP are essential elements of our

far more effective heat exchange. The

production process. They are vital to achieve

built-in funnel maintains an ideal relationship

quick product changes and maximum

between the product volume and the

product safety together with simple

temperature of the conductive surface. The

operation. The ability to operate the process

product temperature is controlled gently

control system, visualization and cleaning

yet efficiently, so that even if the batch

fully automatically on a PC was one of the

size is close to the minimum volume, there

principal factors that influenced our decision

2013 JANUARY/FEBRUARY

For more information Joachim Stoye Product Manager, FrymaKoruma Romaco Group Am Heegwald 11 D-76227 Karlsruhe, Germany. Tel. +49 721 4804 0 frymakoruma@romaco.com www.romaco.com

regional report XXXXXXXXX

Olá Colombia! The global cosmetics and toiletries sector has remained vigorous during the last decade, rising from $201.94 billion in 2001 to $376.84 billion in 2010. Euromonitor estimates suggest that the industry’s progressive growth patterns will be maintained until 2014, rising from 0.6% in 2011 to a rate of 3%. Growth in the Latin American cosmetics and toiletries market has grown at higher than international average rates (9% and 6%, respectively) and Colombia, in particular, has become a key country for investing and achieving regional leadership, given its market growth dynamic, high levels of production and market access. Dr Kevin Robinson paid a visit to find out more.

uan Sebastian Sandino, Foreign

advantages, positive characteristics and

and, in 2011, the top ten players in the market

Investment Adviser, describes

opportunities, which make it an ideal

— including Belstar, Avon, Johnson & Johnson,

Proexport Colombia as the

destination for business people and

Yanbal and Detergentes Ltda, for example —

organization in charge of

companies to invest and secure profitable

generated $2499 million in sales. In addition,

promoting non-traditional

deals,” he enthused.

during the last 11 years, exports have grown at

exports, international tourism and foreign

Looking at some local statistics, provided

a rate of 22%, generating a positive balance

investment in Colombia. “Through our

by Invest in Bogotá, it transpires that the

trade. Currently, Colombia’s main commercial

network of national and international

cosmetic sector In Colombia accounted

partners for cosmetic exports consist of Latin

offices, we offer support and essential

for $2895 million in 2011.1 The country is the

American countries, including Peru (23%),

consultation to Colombian business

fourth largest exporter of cosmetics in Latin

Ecuador (21%), Venezuela (17%) and Mexico

people. We do this through direct services

America, supplying the Andean and Central

(11%). Their import partner are more global

to ensure the design and execution of

American markets, and the industry provides

and include suppliers from Mexico (35%),

internationalization strategies, which

18,000 directly related jobs with an aggregate

the US (12%), France (10%) and Brazil (10%).

seek to make, develop and finalize

value of $46,000 per employee. Bogotá itself

Foreign cosmetic companies represent 75%

opportunities for businesses,” he added.

is a production hub for 54% of the country’s

of Colombia’s total market, accounting for

“We have a thriving and stable economy

cleaning supplies and cosmetic sector and,

80% of the sector’s total sales in 2011. And with

that grew 5.1% in the first quarter of 2011,

perhaps not surprisingly, 75% of the cosmetic

63% of the country’s personal care exports

a government that is strongly committed

and personal care companies in Colombia

originating from Bogotá, it’s no wonder that

to the private sector and a robust industry

have foreign roots … and 80% of them have

multinationals such as Henkel, Belcorp and

with clear room for visionary foreign

been in the market for less than 20 years.

Yanbal have made investments of more than

investors. The Colombian cosmetics and personal care industry has many

Yet, the domestic market has seen sustained growth during the past few years (Figure 1)

$50 million during the last few years to expand their production plants.

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2013

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regional report

Why Colombia? The cosmetics and cleaning products market is one of the 12 priority sectors that have been given priority by the government and private sector in Colombia. Thanks to the Program of Productive Transformation, both parties are working together to ensure that, by 2032, Colombia is recognized as world leader in the production and exportation of cosmetics, cleaning products for the home and high quality absorbents made from natural ingredients.2 Currently, the country offers an opportunity for businesses in the sector interested in installing centers for research and development, and centers for logistics and production. Perhaps one of Colombia’s greatest attractions is its

Bogotá Success Stories

Belcorp has a manufacturing plant in Bogotá from where it exports to several Latin American countries and the United States. In the last few years, the company has invested more than $25 million to expand its plant and to set up its research and development centre. In 2009 and 2010, it invested $12 million in stores around the country. Henkel has its operations base for the Andean Region in Bogotá, where it has a manufacturing plant with 464 employees. The company recently invested $1.5 million in a facility expansion from which it exports 40% of its total production to 18 countries. Yanbal, a Peruvian multinational with 40 years of experience, created 900 jobs in Bogotá. It had previously invested $10 million in the expansion of its production plant and its growth in the region.

biodiversity. It plays host to almost

in keeping with international

Human Capital

standards, granting 20 year

The quality of education in

exclusivity to patent holders. The

Colombia means that the country

principle treaties relating to the

has one of the most competitive

matter have been signed and

workforces in the region,

ratified (The Paris Convention,

which, in turn, translates into an

TRIPS Agreement and the Patent

excellent business environment.

Co-operation Treaty). And,

Colombia has the second-

Colciencias — the Administrative

highest availability of trained

Department of Science,

workforce in the region; and,

Technology and Innovation — will

together with Brazil, Argentina

present an incentive to those

and Mexico, it has the most

companies that complete R&D

competitive managers in the

projects, provided that new, high-

region, showing the country’s

level staff are brought on board to

capacity to be competitive in

perform these activities and that

multinational companies. More

Colombian nationals comprise

than 120,000 professionals and

75% of all researchers after 3 years

technicians are available to work

(the period of the incentive’s

in the cosmetics and cleaning

duration). The incentive will be

products industry; the level of

offered by way of salaries for

training in the cosmetics sector

PhD, non-PhD and staff training

accounts for 8.4% of all graduates

in accordance with determined

in the country’s universities and

percentages and will be subject

technology centres, and staff

to budgetary availability.

training in specialist disciplines,

10% of the world’s biodiversity

This will provide cosmetics

and only comprises 0.7% of South

and toiletries sector investors

America’s continental surface

with clear rules relating to the

Export Platform

has witnessed an average annual

area. By definition, it’s the country

access and use of biological

As previously mentioned, since

growth of 14% during the last 10

with the highest biodiversity per

and genetic resources derived

2001, there has been a trade

years. And, interestingly, not only

square metre in the world (plants,

from the country’s biodiversity.

balance surplus in the Colombian

does Colombia have the highest

mammals and birds), according

The policy has four objectives:

cosmetics and personal care

female consumer market in Latin

to Earth Trends. It also lays claim

improve institutional capacity

sector and exports have grown

America, it also possesses the

to being the country with the

for commercial biotechnology

at a higher rate (19.6% per year)

highest feminine labour force

second-greatest floral diversity

development; develop financial

than imports (14.1% per year).

in managerial positions in the

in the world, boasting more than

instruments to attract investment

Colombia’s geostrategic position

region, according to the Institute

50,000 known plant species —

for developing biotechnology

in the northeastern corner of

for Management Development.

36% of which are either endemic

companies; adapt and revise

South America places the country

Figures show an increase of 37%

or unique to Colombia. And,

the regulatory framework

in a competitive logistical arena;

in the number of women in the

by virtue of its tropical location,

related to the access of genetic

it constitutes a key staging post

labour market between 2000 and

Colombia has a range of thermal

resources and developing

for shipping companies covering

2009, despite world growth of only

floors with heights from 0–4000

biotechnological medications

north–south–north sea routes,

16%.

metres above sea level, offering

and phytotherapeutic products;

and the proximity of the Panama

a range of growing temperatures

and study the possibility

Canal facilitates east–west

from >24 C° to <6 °C, thus

of creating a Colombian

interconnections and access to

Investment Incentives

favouring the existence of diverse

Bioprospecting Company and

the Pacific and Atlantic oceans.

Both Colombia and Bogotá

ecosystems such as natural

a National Observatory of

forests, savannas and arid, humid

Colombian Biodiversity.

Master’s degrees and doctorates

Colombia’s air traffic situation

offer national and local

is equally advantageous, a

investment incentives, such as

claim borne out by Bogotá

the various Free Trade Zones

Appropriate Legislation

Airport’s status as the number

(FTZs). These were created to

one ranking Latin American

stimulate investment, create

and is a unique development

A proposal for the Commercial

airport in cargo movement. The

jobs, promote trade and regional

opportunity. Accordingly, it is

Development of Biotechnology

country offers more than 3700

competitiveness, and develop

Colombian government policy

derived from the sustainable use

scheduled sea routes and almost

economies of scale. The FTZs

to support the creation of the

of biodiversity was approved in

1000 air cargo transportation

are geographical areas within

economic, technical, institutional

June 2011, enabling the creation

trips each year and, at the time

the national territory that have

and legal conditions to attract

of the economic, institutional

of writing, Colombia aims to

been authorized by the relevant

public and private resources for

and legal conditions to attract

have established 11 Free Trade

competent authorities for

the development of commercial

public and private resources for

Agreements that will provide

commerce and the production

products and companies

entrepreneurs in biotechnology.

the cosmetics and toiletries

of goods and services according

based on sustainability and the

In addition, Colombia offers the

sector with access to 1.5 billion

to a special regime regarding

application of biotechnology.

protection of industrial property

consumers.

taxes and customs regulations.

and snow-capped zones, among others. Biodiversity is of national interest

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2013

Figure 1: Cosmetic production in Colombia (2005–2011).

3.5 3

USD (Millions)

2.5

1190

2 1.5 1 0.5

454

425

400

356

321

571

478

768

719

677

726 1700

604

0 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010* 2011* Personal Care CARG Total: 24%

Make-up, Colour and Hair Treatment

CARG Personal Care: 24%

CARG Make-up: 24%

Within the boundaries of an FTZ,

18 international investment

a commercial development

can you afford not to be there?

any commercial activity can

agreements with 50 countries

policy for biotechnology that is

Olá Colombia!

be done — except for those

and 16 agreements to avoid

conducive to the sustainable use

that have been specifically

double taxation in 18 countries.

of biodiversity, a strong market

restricted — which grants

Income tax deductions of up to

position — with Colombia being

participants access to a 15%

175% for science, technology

the fifth-largest player in Latin

income tax rate, participation in

and innovation projects, and

America — and the presence

the local market, international

up to 20% for investments that

of a suitable export platform,

free trade agreement terms

control and/or improve the

among others. And, with the

and no customs tax charges or

environment, are available.

ongoing global trend of focusing

payments (duty free import of

Incentives for formalization and

on the production of cosmetics

machinery and raw materials;

employment generation are

based on natural ingredients, the

purchase of raw materials, capital

also on offer for any enterprise

country’s impressive floral diversity

goods and services with no

whose assets don’t exceed

makes Colombia a good option

VAT). As an international trade

$1.5 million or have less than 50

for establishing R&D centres that

platform, Colombia currently

employees, such as discounted

promote natural ingredients and

has free trade agreements in

income tax, contributions, levies

the development of high value-

place with 48 countries, gaining

and other contributions from

added products.3

preferential access to more

payroll, according to specific

than 1.5 billion consumers. There

requirements.

are plans to instigate a further

Key Contacts

Proexport Colombia, London Office David Gonzalez Investment Specialist Tel +44 207 491 3535 dgonzalez@proexport.com.co www.proexport.com.co Invest in Bogotá Leonardo Nieto City Marketing, Projects Office Tel. +57 1 742 3030 x 328 lnieto@investinbogota.org www.investinbogota.org

The top three global risk rating firms — Standard and Poor’s, Moody’s and Fitch — guarantee

In Summary

that Colombia is a safe place

Colombia lays claim to excellent

to invest and make a profitable

conditions for developing the

return on that investment.

cosmetics and personal care

It’s located in the centre of

sector and transforming itself

five time zones, including the

into a global player. Employers

international business hubs of

will have access to opportunities

New York, Toronto and Miami.

to invest in the creation of

And, offering multiple pillars for

research and development

development with differential

centres, and production

investment opportunities, an IT

and distribution plants. Such

infrastructure and connectivity to

investment is founded on

suit world‑class operations and all

strengthening the link with natural

the necessary human resources

ingredients, the existence of

for optimal business performance,

2013 JANUARY/FEBRUARY

REFERENCES

1. Invest in Bogotá is the investment promotion agency of the Colombia’s capital city and Cundinamarca; it’s a non-profit corporation created in 2006 as a public-private partnership between the City Government and the Bogotá Chamber of Commerce. The agency aims to support those exploring investment opportunities in the region, confidentially and free of charge. 2. www.transformacionproductiva. gov.co. 3. The natural cosmetics market is expected to show an average annual growth rate of 6.2% for the US and Europe between 2008 and 2013, reaching $7 billion by the end of that period. The natural ingredients world market was valued at $ 25.6 billion in 2008 and emerging countries in the tropics region have increased their share in recent years.

FOR MORE INFORMATION

Dr Kevin Robinson is the Editorial Director of nutraceutical business & technology and can be reached at kevinrobinson@viacommsgroup.com.

last word XXXXXXXXX

Making Life a Little Rosier

Like all the best kept beauty secrets, the use of rose hip seed oil is deeply rooted in history and culture. For centuries, the natives of the South American Andes prized wild rose hip oil for its cosmetic ability, in particular to repair damaged skin. Here, Earthoil explains how the oil of this beautiful flower has become a much sought after component of natural perfumes, cosmetics and personal care products throughout the world.

ommonly known

medicinal and cosmetic sphere. Their tangy flavour

Community Involvement

fair payment: mass can change

as rose hip, Rosa rubiginosa

makes them popular in sweet

Much of the world’s rose

Currently, around 300 harvesters

grows wild in

and savoury dishes, in fresh

hip supply originates from

partake in the project, benefiting

the mountains

or dried form. Rose hip tea is

commercial farms in South

economically from their natural

of Chile, Argentina and

a widely consumed herbal

America, which, it could be

surroundings in a sustainable and

Southern Africa. The plant

tea made with crushed

argued, produce a lower quality

responsible manner.

is also particularly prolific in

rose hips. Herbal medicine

product for a lower price. In

the mountainous kingdom of

preparations from rose hip

contrast, 100% organic, Lesotho

Conclusion

Lesotho — a tiny country made

are claimed to ease joint

rose hip grows wild, without

Rose hip oil represents a unique

up of highlands and entirely

stiffness and pain, thanks to

interference from pesticides and

ingredient for skin and personal

landlocked by South Africa.

the plant’s anti-inflammatory

other artificial contaminants and

care product formulations, with

Here, rose hip flourishes along

properties. Rose hip oil has

is ethically sourced by Earthoil

active antioxidant properties that

riverbanks, enjoying high rainfall,

also been used for centuries

directly from the Lesotho local

can specifically respond to the

pure air and a cool climate at an

by the indigenous peoples

communities. Lesotho is a poor

current consumer preoccupation

altitude of 3300 metres. The hip

of South America to nurture

country where resources are

with skin and antiageing.

of the rose is the fruit that remains

the skin. It displays a number

scarce. Earthoil has worked

Supplied through Earthoil’s rose

once the flower has bloomed

of important antioxidant

closely with the Lesotho

hip community project in Lesotho,

and its petals have fallen. Similar

properties, making it a much

authorities to develop a rose hip

Earthoil’s pure rose hip oil offers

to a berry in appearance, rose

sought-after ingredient in

collection programme, which

manufacturers the added benefit

hip ranges from red-orange to

products targeting skin ageing,

affords local villagers a much-

of a 100% organic ingredient of

dark purple/black in colour in

pigmentation, scarring and sun

needed source of income from

the highest quality from fair and

some species. Rose hips begin

damage. Thanks to a naturally

the rose hip harvest. Women do

sustainable sourcing.

to form in spring and ripen in

high content of essential

much of the fruit collection while

late summer through autumn.

fatty acids and vitamin A, it

the men tend the cattle.

It is the seed of the fruit that is

quenches dry, damaged skin,

subsequently mechanically cold

while the other key ingredients

throughout Lesotho have been

pressed to produce the highly

of rose hip oil, such as

established. Local vehicle owners

prized rose hip oil.

lycopene, help to protect skin

are employed by the project

from premature ageing. The

to drive to the various pick up

Rosy Complexions

oil itself is dry and extremely

points where the collectors’ rose

Rose hips have a number

light, making it non-greasy and

hip harvests are measured by

of uses within a culinary,

easily absorbed into the skin.

volume to ensure consistently

when rosehips are dried.

A number of collection points

For more information

Douglas Rash Group Vice President of Global Sales Treatt Northern Way Bury St Edmunds IP32 6NL, UK. Tel. +44 1284 702500 enquiries@rctreatt.com www.treatt.com

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2013

Xilogel. The smoothest thing that ever happened to skin. ®

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www.indena.com Headquarters - Indena S.p.A. - Viale Ortles, 12 - 20139 Milan, Italy - tel. +39 02.574961 Indena Biotechnology (Shanghai) Co., Ltd - Unit 03, 16/F, Cross Tower, 318 Fu Zhou Road - Shanghai 200001 - China - tel. +86.21.22815900 Indena France S.A.S. - 23, Rue de Madrid - 75008 Paris - France - tel. +33 1 45229128 Indena Japan Co., Ltd. - KDDI Bdl. 21F. 1- 8-1 Otemachi- Chyoda-Ku Tokyo 100-0004 - Japan - tel. +81.3.3243 9924 Indena USA Inc. - Two Union Square, 601 Union Street, Suite 330 - Seattle, WA 98101 - USA - tel. +1.206.340.6140

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