Natural Dye Methodology Report by UT School of Architecture

Natural Dye Wool Dyeing Process

Natural Dye: Wool Dyeing Process

Objective: To achieve a full color range of dyes through natural sources as a way to explore a sustainable approach to dyeing wool. This research facilitated a semester long project on wet felting wool and the process and results were presented at a workshop on felting wool, given by Laura Grenard. The end goal of the research project was to construct a felt wall installation in the Materials Lab with naturally dyed, hand formed felt pods. See Appendix G at the end of this report for instructions on creating felt pods.

Material Methodology Report - Natural Dyes

Researchers: Claudia Rodriguez and Heather Sutherland Course: Materials Lab Research Instructor: Jen Wong Semester: Fall 2015 Materials

Tools

Programs

Roving and Batt Wool - 1:1 dry weight ratio of wool to dye source, u.n.o. Dye Sources (Fruits, Vegetables, Spices) Mordants (Alum, Cream of Tartar, Salt)

2 Non-reactive pots (Avoid iron or copper pots) Cutting Board Knife Measuring Cups Thermometer Scale Water Spoon/Stir Stick Strainer Water and Mild Soap

None

Material determinant: We chose dye sources based on their historic uses as dye material. We sought easy to acquire materials, like onions, avocado, and beets, which could be purchased from most grocery stores.

Natural Dye: Wool Dyeing Process

Pre-Dyeing: Mordants Most natural dyes require mordants, metallic salts and other compounds, which helps set the dye pigments on the wool by forming a coordination complex with the dye which then attaches to the wool. While mordant can be applied pre, during, or post dyeing, pre-dyeing was recommended as most suited for wool. During pre-mordanting, the metallic salts bond directly to the strands of fiber. Once in the dye bath, the pigment molecules form a chemical bond with the mordant on the fiber, thereby setting the color and increasing its ability to be lightfast and colorfast. Wool is generally boiled in a weak solution of whatever mordant is used. Sufficient time must be allowed for the mordant to penetrate the fiber thoroughly. If the mordant is only superficial, the dye will be uneven: it will fade and will not be as brilliant as it should be. There are a variety of mordants that can be used, depending on the material being dyed and the dye bath source. Different mordants can produce different colors with the same natural dye source. Common Mordants: · Alum (Potassium aluminum sulphate) - Most generally used of all mordants, environmentally friendly. Should be used with small amount of Cream of Tartar, as it brightens the ultimate color. Alum is best for protein fibers. · Iron (Ferrous sulphate) - One of most environmentally friendly mordants. Often used with cellulose fibers. Shifts colors to a deeper, darker shade. · Salt - Used with berry dyes, will produce pastel colors. · Vinegar - Used with plant dyes, will produce pastel colors. · Ammonia - Post-dyeing, enhances brightness and richness of color · Acetic Acid · Tannic Acid - Used in combination with other mordants will aid the attraction of the coloring matter to the fiber and add brilliancy to the colors. Better for cellulose fibers. · Copper (Copper sulphate) - Toxic · Chrome (Potassium dichromate) - Toxic · Tin (Stannous chloride) - Toxic

Material Methodology Report - Natural Dyes

Pre-Dyeing: Pre-Mordanting Ingredients Use this recipe unless indicated otherwise · Mordant: Alum & Cream of Tartar · 3 oz of wool (rubber banded into .3 oz balls) · 1 tsp of Alum · 1/4 tsp of Cream of Tartar · Enough water to cover wool and allow wool to gently move Natural Dye: Wool Dyeing Process

Pre-Dyeing: Pre-Mordanting • Dissolve alum and cream of tartar in warm water in a small jar (or directly in large steel pot). • Add enough water to cover wool and allow it to move freely and heat water. • When the water is warm, submerge the wool. • Raise to boiling point and boil for one hour. 6

Material Methodology Report - Natural Dyes

Pre-Dyeing: Pre-Mordanting • Remove bath from heat and let cool overnight. • Rinse wool in same temperature of water it was resting in, until water runs clear. • Keep wool wet if dyeing in next 24 hours.

Natural Dye: Wool Dyeing Process

Preparing the Dye Bath Most natural dyes require mordants, metallic salts and other compounds, which helps set the dye pigments on the wool by forming a coordination complex with the dye which then attaches to the wool. While mordant can be applied pre, during, or post dyeing, pre-dyeing was recommended as most suited for wool. During pre-mordanting, the metallic salts bond directly to the strands of fiber. Once in the dye bath, the pigment molecules form a chemical bond with the mordant on the fiber, thereby setting the color and increasing its ability to be lightfast and colorfast. Wool is generally boiled in a weak solution of whatever mordant is used. Sufficient time must be allowed for the mordant to penetrate the fiber thoroughly. If the mordant is only superficial, the dye will be uneven: it will fade and will not be as brilliant as it should be. There are a variety of mordants that can be used, depending on the material being dyed and the dye bath source. Different mordants can produce different colors with the same natural dye source. Dye sources we worked with and our color results: Beets - Pale to light yellow/cream Paprika - Very pale orange/cream Pomegranate Seeds and Skin - Pale yellow to orange/cream Avocado Skins and Pits - Pale to deep orange to brown Onion (Yellow) - Pale to moderately bright yellow Onion (Purple) - Pale to deep golden yellow Turmeric - Bright yellow to deep golden/orange Artichoke - Very pale green - color deepens when used in hot felt dyeing Turmeric and Indigo Combined - Various shades between yellow-green, green, and green-blue Indigo - Pale to deep blue Blackberries - Light lilac Raspberries - Light reddish lilac See Appendix E for additional dye sources.

Material Methodology Report - Natural Dyes

Preparing the Dye Bath: Hot Extraction • • • • •

Chop plant material into small pieces and place in a pot. Double the amount of water to plant material. Bring to a boil, then simmer for about an hour. Strain. Keep dye bath hot if hot process dyeing immediately.

Natural Dye: Wool Dyeing Process

Dyeing the Wool: Hot Process • Add pre-mordant wool to dye bath. • Bring to a boil. • Simmer dye bath at 90 degrees Fahrenheit with wool until desired color is achieved (10 minutes to 1 hour). • Gently move wool in water to evenly dye, but don’t strongly agitate. • Remember that dye color will appear darker when wet. • Remove bath from heat source and allow to cool completely. 10

Material Methodology Report - Natural Dyes

Dyeing the Wool: Cold Process • • • • •

Wool should be wet prior to cold processing (soak wool for 24 hours.) If dye extracted through hot extraction, allow dye bath to fully cool. Set pre-soaked wool in cool dye bath. Gently stir wool to dye evenly. Soak wool for 48 hours

Natural Dye: Wool Dyeing Process

Dyeing the Wool: Rinsing • After cooling (usually overnight) remove dyed wool from dye bath and wash in the same temperature of water it was soaking in. • Use a mild liquid soap. • Rinse very gently until water runs clear.

Material Methodology Report - Natural Dyes

Dyeing the Wool: Drying • Hang or lay flat to dry. • Wool generally takes one to two days to dry.

Natural Dye: Wool Dyeing Process

Dye Bath Prep

Hot Process Dyeing

Cold Process Dyeing Soaking

Hot Process Dyeing Soaking

Mordant Wool Soaking

Dyed Wool Drying Station

Work Station Setup • Multiple processes can occur at the same time. • Pre-mordant large quantities of wool at a time. • Materials for dye extraction can be prepared while waiting for hot processes and extractions to simmer. • Hot extraction dye baths can be done days in advance. • Compliment long and short simmer times, to get the most dye processes done in a day. 14

Material Methodology Report - Natural Dyes

Unresolved issues/Areas for further research: Dye Extraction Processes: While there are a variety of processes for dying wool, for time sake and consistency we only used hot extraction. Cold extraction of dye materials would make it possible to use more sensitive dye materials, like flowers. Mordants: We generally used alum and cream of tartar as a mordant, with the addition of salt for berries. Experimenting with other mordants should produce other tints/shades and even different colors entirely with the same dye source material. Experimenting with different metal pots, like iron or copper, would also affect the color and brilliancy of the dye bath. This would be an avenue for further research. Combining dyes/Double dipping: Only one week of research was spent investigating the affects of combining different dye baths in the same pot or dipping one ball of wool in multiple dye baths. The results of that week were promising, resulting in a vibrant green that was produced from a long process of double dipping and diluting indigo and turmeric dye baths. More work in this area could produce difficult to achieve colors.

Conclusions: This research showed that it is possible to produce a wide variety of dyes through natural means. Oranges, yellows, creams, and browns were easiest to produce, while a true red was hardest. Hot dyeing produces deeper and bolder colors while cold dyeing produced softer pastels. It’s important to note that different parts of the same plant can produce different shades. The skin of an avocado will produce lighter, creamier browns and oranges whereas the pit will produce deeper, darker oranges with a pinkish hue. Ratio of dye material to water, water temperature, pot thickness, and even how fast the water is brought to a boil, will all affect the outcome of the dye bath. Consistency is essential to have replicable results. Natural Dye: Wool Dyeing Process

Appendix A: Dye Source Recipes The following recipes are for hot dye extraction, hot process dyeing and cold process dyeing (if applicable.) Additional dye recipes can be found in Appendix B. Additional dye sources can be found in Appendix E and additional dye processes, including cold dye extraction can be found in Appendix D. 16

Material Methodology Report - Natural Dyes

Avocado Skins Recipe Pre-Mordant wool with Alum and Cream of Tartar · Hot Extraction: Peel 2 oz of avocado skins; Slice into small strips; Put skins in a non-stick pot with 10cups water wool; Bring water to a boil; Simmer 1 hour; Strain skins; Store 1/2 of dye batch for cold dye. · Hot dye: Boil 1/2 of the batch with .6 oz of wool; Simmer for one hour. · Cold dye: Soak .6 oz of wool in cold dye bath for 48 hours. Natural Dye: Wool Dyeing Process

Beets Recipe Pre-Mordant wool with Alum and Cream of Tartar · Hot Extraction: Chop 2 oz of beets; Put beets in a pot with 10 cups water wool; Bring water to a boil; Simmer 10 minutes; Strain beets. · Hot dye: Boil; Simmer for 10 minutes.

Material Methodology Report - Natural Dyes

Blackberries Recipe Pre-Mordant wool with Alum, Salt, and Cream of Tartar - add 1/4 tsp of salt to Alum Mordant recipe - process as normal · Hot Extraction: Blackberries: 3 times weight of wool; Crush Blackberries; Bring berries and 10 cups water to a boil; Simmer 10 minutes; Strain berries; Store 1/2 of dye batch for cold dye. · Hot dye: Boil, simmer .6 oz of wool in 1/2 of dye bath for 1 hour. · Cold dye: Soak .6 oz of wool in cold dye bath for 48 hours. Natural Dye: Wool Dyeing Process

Indigo (Synthetic) Recipe Pre-Mordant wool with Alum and Cream of Tartar · Hot Extraction: Use 1/8 tsp of Indigo; Boil in a pot of 12 cups of water; Simmer for 30 minutes. · Hot Dyed: Boil with 1.2 oz wool in dye bath; Simmer for 10 minutes. · Double Dip Hot Dyed: Repeat Extraction process with new dye bath; Take 1/2 of wool from 1st hot dye; Boil and simmer for 5 minutes. 20

Material Methodology Report - Natural Dyes

Yellow Onion Recipe Pre-Mordant wool with Alum and Cream of Tartar · Hot Extraction: Put skins from 1 yellow onion in a pot with 12 cups water wool; Bring water to a boil; Simmer 20 minutes; Strain skins; Store 1/2 of dye batch for cold dye. · Hot dye: Boil 1/2 of the batch with .6 oz of wool; Simmer for 20 minutes. · Cold dye: Soak .6 oz of wool in cold dye bath for 48 hours. Natural Dye: Wool Dyeing Process

Purple Onion Recipe Pre-Mordant wool with Alum and Cream of Tartar · Hot Extraction: Put skins from 1 purple onion in a pot with 12 cups water wool; Bring water to a boil; Simmer 20 minutes; Strain skins; Store 1/2 of dye batch for cold dye. · Hot dye: Boil 1/2 of the batch with .6 oz of wool; Simmer for 20 minutes. · Cold dye: Soak .6 oz of wool in cold dye bath for 48 hours. 22

Material Methodology Report - Natural Dyes

Turmeric Recipe Pre-Mordant wool with Alum and Cream of Tartar · Hot Extraction: Use 3 tsp of Turmeric; Boil in a pot of 12 cups of water; Simmer for 30 minutes; Divide batch in 1/2 for cold dye. Hot Dyed: Boil 1/2 of the batch with .6 oz wool in dye bath; Simmer for 1 hour. · Cold dye: Soak .6 oz of wool in cold dye bath for 48 hours. Natural Dye: Wool Dyeing Process

Turmeric and Indigo (Synthetic) Recipe Achieving vibrant greens is possible but involves multiple batches of indigo and turmeric, with dipping and double dipping involved. See Appendix E for process of achieving above green wool.

Material Methodology Report - Natural Dyes

Appendix B: Additional Recipes Following Recipes used 10 cups of water in dye extraction phase and dyed 1.2 oz of wool in dye phase, unless noted otherwise. Pre-mordant all wool. · Artichoke Dyed Wool with Alum Mordant Hot Extraction: Use 2 oz of artichoke; Slice into small strips; Boil in a pot of water; Simmer for 30 minutes; Strain. Hot Dyed: Boil wool in dye bath; Simmer for 30 minutes. · Avocado Pits Dyed Wool with Alum Mordant Hot Extraction: Use pit from one avocado; Crush with a mallet (Wrap pit inside plastic bag or towel); Slowly bring to a boil in non-stick pot of water; Simmer for 1 hour; Strain pits; Separate dye bath in 1/2 for cold dye. Hot Dyed: Boil .6 oz of wool in 1/2 of dye bath; Simmer for 1 hour. Cold Dyed: Soak .6 oz of wool in cold dye bath for 48 hours. · Paprika Dyed Wool with Alum Mordant Hot Extraction: Use 3 tsp of Paprika; Boil in a pot of 12 cups of water; Simmer for 30 minutes. Hot Dyed: Boil wool in dye bath; Simmer for 30 minutes. · Pomegranate Skin Dyed Wool with Alum Mordant Hot Extraction: Use 1.5 times weight of skin to wool; Peel skin; Slice into small strips; Boil in a pot of water; Simmer for 1 hour; Strain skin. Hot Dyed: Boil wool in dye bath; Simmer for 1 hour. · Pomegranate Seeds Dyed Wool with Alum Mordant Hot Extraction: Use seeds of one pomegranate to wool; Crush seeds; Boil in a pot of water; Simmer for 20 minutes; Strain seeds. Hot Dyed: Boil wool in dye bath; Simmer for 30 minutes. · Raspberry Dyed Wool with Alum & Salt Mordant Add 1/4 tsp of salt to pre-mordant recipe Hot Extraction: Use 2 times weight of berries to wool; Crush berries; Boil in a pot of water; Simmer for 1 hour; Strain berries. Hot Dyed: Boil wool in dye bath; Simmer for 1 hour. Natural Dye: Wool Dyeing Process

Appendix C: Achieving Green Dye One ball of wool equals .3 oz, two are generally used in each step, unless noted otherwise. While green may be achieved in other ways, this is how we ended up with the deep green: Indigo #11 A Hot Extraction: 1/8 tsp indigo to 12 cups water; Boil; Simmer 30 mins Hot dye: 4 balls of wool; Boil; Simmer 10 mins (until dye disappeared and water cleared); Remove wool; Set two wool balls aside unwashed Indigo #11 b Hot Extraction: 1/8 tsp indigo to 12 cups water; Boil; Simmer 30 mins Hot Dye: 2 balls of wool previously dyed in #11A; Boil; Simmer 5 mins; Discard dye bath; Set wool aside unwashed Turmeric #12 A Hot Extraction: 3 tsp turmeric to 12 cups water; Boil; Simmer 30 mins Hot Dye: Boil 2 balls undyed wool in turmeric dye; Simmer 10 mins; Let wool cool then rinse; Save dye bath Hot Dye 2: Place unwashed indigo dyed wool from dye bath #11B in dye bath #12A; Boil; Simmer 1 hr; Remove wool; Let wool cool then rinse; Save dye bath Turmeric/Indigo #12 B Use Turmeric dye bath #12 A to dye 2 balls of undyed wool (these have salt and alum as mordants); Simmer 10 minutes; Set wool aside unwashed; Discard dye bath Meanwhile prepare new indigo batch: ¼ tsp indigo to 12 cups of water; Boil; Simmer 30 minutes Hot Dye: Take unwashed turmeric dyed wool and dip in indigo dye for 5 minutes; Remove wool; Let wool cool then rinse; Save dye bath Turmeric/Indigo #12 C Hot Dye: Place salt & Alum mordant undyed wool in Indigo bath from #12B; Boil; Simmer 20 minutes; Pour dye bath in a container to cool overnight with wool; Rinse in tepid water with mild soap the next day

Material Methodology Report - Natural Dyes

Appendix D: Additional Processes Research about additional dye methods and processes. Untested. PRE-DYEING: Scouring: (If wool hasn’t been washed) scouring silk and wool: 1. Use a large vessel and fill with enough water so that the yarn or fabric may be well covered and not crowded. 2. Add 1 tsp (5 ml) orvus paste soap. 3. Add yarn, fleece or piece goods and heat gently (60º C, 140º F) for approximately 1 hour. Turn gently but do not agitate 4. Allow fiber to cool down slowly and then rinse in warm water.

COLD EXTRACTION/COLD PROCESS: Wool should be wet prior to cold processing (soak for 24 hours) Ice Flower Dyes: 1.Freeze fresh flowers overnight in the freezer (Keep in an air-tight and freezer proof container or bag) 2.Place frozen flowers in a netting bag (cheese cloth, stocking,sock) and tie opening w/ an elastic band. 3.Immerse the bag in a large bowl of lukewarm water a. 2 cups of frozen violas will dye 5 ½ yards of silk fabric 4. Wearing gloves, squeeze the bundle in the water until the liquid is well colored. 5. Add mordant, stir well to dissolve a. ½ tsp of alum (promote blues), ½ cup of vinegar (enhance reds) 6. Immerse cloth, leaving it to soak for 24 - 48 hours (turn occasionally to distribute the dye.) Suggested flowers: hibiscus, Camilla (w/ lemon and salt), dandelion, foxglove

Natural Dye: Wool Dyeing Process

Appendix D: Additional Processes Continued COLD EXTRACTION/COLD PROCESS: Wool should be wet prior to cold processing (soak for 24 hours) Fruits and Berries: 1. Follow above method for fruits and berries or buy frozen berries. 2. Pre-soak the wool for 24 hours 3. Pre-mordant the wool - alum for blues and purples, vinegar or lemon juice for reds Suggested berries: blueberries, strawberries, raspberry, elderberry

Material Methodology Report - Natural Dyes

Appendix E: Natural Dye Sources PLANTS WHICH DYE RED/PINK Strawberries Avocado (from skin and seed)- light pink hue Cherries Raspberries (red) Roses & Lavender - w/ a little mint & lemon juice to activate the alkaloids - brilliant pink Camilla - w/ lemon and salt - pink-magenta Beets - deep red Chokecherries (red-brown) Hibiscus flowers (dried) Blackcurrant - 50 grams to 25 grams of wool - use alum madder - most reliable PLANTS WHICH DYE ORANGE Avocado Carrot (roots) - orange Eucalyptus (all parts, leaves & bark) tan, deep rust red, yellow, green, orange & chocolate brown Lilac (twigs) - yellow/orange Onion (skin) - orange Pomegranate (skins) - w/ Alum - orange to khaki green Sassafras (leaves) Turmeric - dyed cloth will turn orange or red if it’s dipped in lye PLANTS THAT DYE YELLOW Onion skins (yellow) w/ Alum & cream of tartar - simmer for thirty minutes Rhubarb root - doesn’t require a mordant Saffron - doesn’t require a mordant (expensive, although 5% should achieve a reasonable yellow) - another site said to set w/ alum Turmeric - bright yellow - simmer for ten minutes Plum   Yellow Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria)  Natural Dye: Wool Dyeing Process

Appendix E: Natural Dye Sources Continued PLANTS THAT DYE YELLOW Bay leaves - yellow Burdock Celery (leaves) Crocus - yellow Dandelion (flower) Queen Anne’s lace Paprika - pale yellow to orange light Weld (Reseda luteola) - no modifier NATURAL DYE PLANTS FOR GREEN **Dye material yellow and then dye material in a weak indigo vat to achieve varying shades of green from yellow green to blue green. Turmeric and blackcurrant - simmer in turmeric for ten minutes, then simmer in blackcurrant dye bath for one hour, pale spring green Turmeric and blackcurrant - combine in dye bath, simmer wool in bath for one hour, vivid yellow green. Artichokes Spinach (leaves) Dried black bean Passion fruit - skin of one fruit to 25 grams of wool- w/ alum Foxglove (flowers) apple green Lilac (flowers) - green Grass - yellow green Red onion - ( skin) a medium green, lighter than forest green Chamomile (leaves) - green Peppermint - dark khaki green color Peony (flowers) - pale lime green Goldenrod (pale yellow green) Queen Anne’s Lace (Alum and Iron) Sage green Weld (Reseda luteola) - w/ Iron produces a chartreuse green Weld (Reseda luteola) - w/ copper modifier produces a lime green

Material Methodology Report - Natural Dyes

Appendix E: Natural Dye Sources Continued NATURAL DYE PLANTS FOR BLUE Indigo (Indigofera tintoria) Hyacinth (flowers)- blue Blackberries - add ¼ lb alum, 2 oz cream of tartar and 1 oz salt to enough water to cover 1 lb of wool - blueish grey color Red grapes - 50 grams to 50 grams of wool - w/ alum - pale blue Elder (Sambucus nigra) Berries Privet (Ligustrum vulgare) Berries with alum and salt Red bearberry (Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi) Whortleberry or Blaeberry (Vaccinium Myrtillus) Berries   Dogwood (fruit) greenish-blue NATURAL DYE PLANTS FOR PURPLE Hibiscus - (flowers - dark red or purple ones) - red purple Red cabbage Mulberries (royal purple) Grapes (purple) Blueberries Raspberry (fruit) purple/blue Basil - purplish grey Byrony (Byronia dioica) Berries Damson, Fruit, with alum Dandelion (Taraxacum Dens-leonis) Roots Danewort (Sambucus Ebulus) Berries Deadly nightshade (Atropa Belladonna) Elder (Sambucus nigra) Berries, with alum, a violet; with alum and salt, a lilac color Sundew (Drosera) Whortleberry or blaeberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) It contains a blue or purple dye which will dye wool and silk without mordant

Title: Subtitle

Appendix E: Natural Dye Sources Continued PLANTS THAT DYE BROWN Red Onion, Skins - simmer for ten minutes Acorns (boiled) Coffee Grinds Fennel (flowers, leaves) - yellow/brown Goldenrod (shoots) - deep brown Tea bags - light brown, tan Lichens Walnut, Root and green husks of nut - wear gloves Oak (Quercus Robur) Bark NATURAL DYE PLANTS FOR BLACK Alder (Alnus glutinosa) Bark, with iron Oak, Bark and acorns Blackberry (Rubus fruticosus) Young shoots, with salts of iron Dock (Rumex) Root Elder (Sambucus nigra) Bark, with iron Iris (Iris Pseudacorus) Root Rusty nails & vinegar - set w/ alum

Material Methodology Title: Report Subtitle - Natural Dyes

Appendix F: Research Sources · http://www.woolery.com/Store/pc/Information-on-Natural-Dyes-c567. htm · http://knitwhatyouexpected.blogspot.com/2013/03/how-to-dye-woolwith-natural-dyes.html · http://knitwhatyouexpected.tumblr.com/tagged/dyeing check! · http://knitwhatyouexpected.blogspot.com/2013/04/fruit-dyes-mordanted-with-alum.html · http://knitwhatyouexpected.blogspot.com/2013/04/vegetable-dyes-mordanted-with-alum.html · http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/how-to-make-vegetable-dye-140050 · http://pioneerthinking.com/crafts/natural-dyes · http://www.jennydean.co.uk/ · http://modernfarmer.com/2013/10/natural-dyes/ · http://www.maiwa.com/pdf/natural_dyeing.pdf · http://www.designsponge.com/2014/08/printable-freebie-natural-dyes-chart.html · http://www.lionbrand.com/cgi-bin/pg.fcgi?page=turmeric.html · http://sonic.net/~dbeebee/IMDI_new/mordants.html · https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mordant

Natural Dye: Wool Dyeing Process

Appendix G: Felt Pod Construction SUPPLIES: Merino wool, roving or batt Bubble Wrap, with small bubbles, 2 pieces approx. 18”x18” Tutu netting or tulle, 1 piece, same size as bubble wrap Plastic ribbed shelf liner, same size as bubble wrap OR a bamboo rolling mat Bar of soap, olive oil- try “Kiss My Face” brand Small sponge Kitchen or shop towels Pot Water Stove top Small bowl Scissors A Resist - we used a piece of plastic shelf liner - cut in a circle with a 3” diameter, one per pod PROCESS: Bring a pot of water to a hot, but not scalding, temperature; Put hot water in a small bowl; Put your bubble wrap, bubbles up on your work surface; Place your resist on top of the bubble wrap. Step 1: · If using batt wool, lay a thin, even layer of wool on top of your resist, with the wool hanging over the edge by 1/2” to 1”. If using roving wool, start laying fine tufts of wool around the edge of the resist, like sun-rays, allowing about 2.5cms (1”) to hang over the edge, and continue until you have covered the edge right around. If you have a gap in the center of the resist, lay a few wisps of fibers to fill in. The color of the wool used first will be the inside of your pod. · Keeping within the shape of the resist, lay tufts of wool to make an even layer, with the fibers running horizontally; Then make a second layer, directly on top, with the fibers running vertically.

Material Methodology Report - Natural Dyes

Appendix G: Felt Pod Construction PROCESS CONTINUED: Steps 2-6 Step 2: · Cover the wool with tutu net then wet your sponge with hot water; Press down gently on top of the net with the sponge - don’t pat or rub; The wool should be wet through, but if you over-wet, mop up the excess with a sponge using straight up and down movements. · Gently rub the wool through the tulle, with wet, soapy fingers in a circular motion; Avoid the edges; Rub the wool for one minute. Step 3: · Carefully remove the tulle; Flip the wool/resist over, so the wool is on top of the bubble wrap and the resist is face up; Wrap the edges of the wool on top of the resist; Repeat step 1 - layering wool on the resist. Step 4: · Repeat step 2; If sufficient thickness, continue to Step 5; If not, repeat steps 1-4 until desired thickness achieved, but don’t create an overhang of wool. Step 5: · Wrap any overhanging wool around the edges to create a clean wrapped edge; Put bubble wrap on top of the wool, bubbles down; Using a small amount of hot, soapy water, make small gentle circles all over the wool for five minutes, including the edge. · Flip the pod over and repeat; Repeat both sides once more (2x both sides.) Step 6: · Remove the top piece of bubble wrap; Roll pod up in plastic shelf liner; Roll with light pressure 30 times (Count one roll as the distance the mat moves as it rolls from your fingertips to wrists and back again.)

Natural Dye: Wool Dyeing Process

Appendix G: Felt Pod Construction PROCESS CONTINUED: Steps 6-10 Step 6 Continued: · Unroll; Smooth and flatten the pod; Turn it a quarter turn; Roll and repeat. Repeat twice more so the pod has been rolled from four different directions. Flip the pod over and repeat the rolling four times. Step 7: · Unroll and check how felted the pod is; Grab a small part of the pod and pull gently; If the entire piece pulls up as a solid unit, move onto step 8; If the wool pulls up in smaller chunks or tufts, repeat Steps 5-6 until pod is sufficiently felted. Step 8: · Using the scissors, cut a small hole in one side of the pod; Using soapy fingers, rub the cut edge to seal it (imagine rubbing your fingers around the top of a wine glass - then rub around between your thumb and index finger); Carefully remove the resist; rub soapy fingers around the inside of the pod; Turn the pod inside out; If satisfied with the pod shape, move on to step 10. Step 9: · Work with the pod to shape and full it (fulling is the shrinking and hardening of the felt); Using soap, warm water, your hands, and round objects like a metal tablespoon of a baby’s rattle, work the wool until the pod feels firm and you are happy with the shape; Pay special attention to the opening. Step 10: · Dip the wool in clear, cold water; Do not squeeze or wring the felt; Keep changing the water until it’s clear; Let pod dry on a drying rack; Adjust pod shape as necessary before it dries; Dried pod will retain it’s shape.

Material Methodology Report - Natural Dyes