585 magazine May-June 2020 by JFM Publishing—(585) magazine / (585) Kids / Upstate Gardeners' Journal

In the garden // Summer style DIALED IN

IN THE GARDEN // SUMMER STYLE

The ﬂower crown— updated with air plants p.8

EXPLORE

Beloved Junior Leagus cookbook turns forty p.14

EXPLORE

The ladies— and kids—of Laughing Gull Chocolates p.18

TASTE

Bitter city— How is Rochester like a digestive? p.66

$3.95

2020 MAY • JUN

IN THE GARDEN p. 24

May June 2020 585mag.com

SUMMER STYLE p. 33

MAY | JUNE 2020

Features

24 IN THE GARDEN

Never has spring’s arrival been more welcome. We have the story of one of the oldest seed companies in the country, guidance on encouraging pollinators, and a visit with plant guru Terri Sauerhafer. Stories by Sally Dixon and Laurie Mercer

33 SUMMER STYLE

Read up on fashion tips, the local history of Champion brand sports apparel, and the Dress for Success program. Stories by Mary Rockcastle, Betsy Harris, and Donna DePalma

In the garden // Summer style DIALED IN The ﬂower crown— updated with air plants p.8

EXPLORE

Beloved Junior Leagus cookbook turns forty p.14

EXPLORE

The ladies— and kids—of Laughing Gull Chocolates p.18

TASTE

Bitter city— How is Rochester like a digestive? p.66

IN THE GARDEN p. 24

May June 2020 585mag.com

SUMMER STYLE p. 33

ON THE COVER

Cover photo by Michael Hanlon Design by Josh Flanigan

Dialed in

Explore

Taste

By Christine Green

By Leah Stacy

By Tanvi Asher

In a league of its own

Around town By (585) staff

What2Where

We were more Indian once

By Erin Scherer

The ladies of Laughing Gull by Katie DeTar

Melting pots by Carolyn Sperry

Plus, the (585) “Do list”

May/June 2020 | 585mag.com

As Italian as Chicken French

In every issue 5

Deadlines, Hello (585)

Tee off with Thai Mii Up By Naz Banu

Index of Advertisers

By Pete Wayner

Photos from our March/April issue launch

Bitter city Plus, our hand-selected (585) dining guide featuring rotating recommendations

Seen

Unplugged

The epidemi-momblog-ist By John Ernst

speaks to all of us. Every time I open the magazine, I find an article “of(585) interest, and even an ad of interest—can you believe that? And exposure to something I did not know about Rochester! ”

—SUZANNE MAYER CEO/Founder Sirius Change LLC, CEO/Co-Founder Hinge Neighbors Inc. pictured with husband, pediatrician Sandy Mayer

EXPLORE

GROW

Little on the outside, big on the inside p.14

Building a stable society with mud, carrots, and hope p.18

GROW

HOME & DIY

TASTE

River Spring Lodge is a fixed-price couples getaway p.60 Paper tricks will have you excited for a new project

Love the atomicage look? Decorate retro-style

Paint cabinets the easy way with chalk paint

Welcome spring! The seasonal flower movement shows no sign of fading from favor

HOT Stuff Beet and Ginger Soup from Lento

JAN•FEB 2018

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MAR APR 2018

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DIALED IN It’s transition time in the (585) p.7

GROW

EXPLORE

Caffeine, comics, and culture in the East End p.18

Old-timey British bikes gain traction with locals p.14

GROW

Area designers serve up sage advice

Dining room table by Entrada Woodworking

Home $3.95 585MAG.COM

Everything about Mansa Wear is unique p.7

SEP OCT 2018

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MAY JUN 2018

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Also available on newsstands throughout the Rochester area including: Barnes & Noble, Tops, and Wegmans

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Come as you are to Seneca Lake’s Stonecat Café p.60

EXTRA SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTIONS & SUPPLEMENTS

Publisher & Editor

Jane Milliman

Creative Director

Josh Flanigan

Lead Designer Acting Production Director Illustrator Staff Photographers Editor-at-Large Contributing Photographers

Cathy Monrad Caroline Kunze Jackie E. Davis Michael Hanlon, Kate Melton John Ernst Naz Banu, Katie DeTar, Abby Rose Esposito, Greg Hollar

Contributing Writers

Tanvi Asher, Donna De Palma, Katie DeTar, Sally Dixon, Tina Etshman,

Christine Green, Betsy Harris, Laurie Mercer, Mary Rockcastle, Erin Scherer, Michelle Shippers, Carolyn Sperry, Leah Stacy, Jinelle Vaiana, Pete Wayner Proofreader Editorial Intern Vice President of Sales

Phyllis Mangefrida Rex Johnson Caroline Kunze

What we do: HOME & CRAFT BEVERAGES DIALED IN South Wedge ho e Euro cravings p.6

EXPLORE Local author Robert Glick’s Two Californias p.12

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Waterport’s unusual entrepreneurs p.18

TASTE

Discover French Week at Rooney’s p.57

Kids and pets ..............41 What to consider before adopting

Craft beverages ...........44

Where to sip and savor

Gardening ...................49 Tips from the pros HOME: A Keuka Lake carriage house p. 22 CRAFT BEVERAGES: Make your own drink modifiers p. 37 March April 2020 585mag.com

(585) magazine Upstate Gardeners’ Journal (585) Hot Off the Press Custom Publishing Happy Hours

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Summer style ..............54 What to wear this season

SUBSCRIPTIONS To order or renew a subscription online, visit 585mag.com and select the “Subscribe” tab. For personal service, call 1-585-413-0040. All major credit cards are accepted. New subscriptions will begin with the next scheduled issue. CHANGE OF ADDRESS Please send all address changes, whether temporary or permanent, with effective date(s) to 585subscriptions@585mag. com, or call 1-585-413-0040. Address changes will take effect with the next scheduled issue. FEEDBACK We’d love to hear what you think! Send us a letter to editor@585publishing. com. By mail, contact us at: Letters to the Editor, 585 Publishing, 1501 East Avenue, Rochester, NY 14610. DEADLINES FOR LISTINGS Calendar listing deadlines for our upcoming issues are as follows: For July/August 2020 issue: May 15 For September/October 2020 issue: Jul. 15 For November/December 2020 issue: Sept. 15 For January/February 2021 issue: Nov. 15 ADVERTISING If you’d like to learn about advertising in an upcoming issue of (585), you can view our advertising rate card and mechanical requirements at 585mag.com. ON THE WEB Visit 585mag.com to take a tour of the current issue, get exclusive webextras content, check out our latest blog posts, or review our dining guide. FIND US ON

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Hello (585) When I was growing up, my mother had lots of cookbooks, like most moms do, but two of the staples were Applehood and Motherpie and For Goodness Taste, both published by the Junior League of Rochester (see story, page 14). There are many good ones, but my all-time favorite recipe from the books is Thyme for Butternut Squash. My mother made it most holidays, I make it every holiday, and just recently my daughter, twenty-two, started making it, too. As I geared up for this issue, I went in search of my beloved Junior League books and couldn’t find them. (Lost in my last move, I suppose, or maybe in the attic—I hadn’t been cooking much.) I mentioned that they were missing to my mother, and she immediately ordered the pair and had them shipped to me, as mothers do. That got me looking at other cookbooks and recipes, and, in a classic “Rochester is small” coincidence, in an ancient binder I found an old, yellowed recipe clipped from the Democrat and Chronicle for … Whitey Proietti’s Chicken French, which we review starting on page 56. This letter was supposed to be about my mom, and moms in general, with Mother’s Day on the horizon, but then COVID-19 happened. I put off writing it for as long as possible, waiting for some word about when life can begin to return to normal. But as we go to press, that word hasn’t yet come. Since everything is canceled, we scrapped the “Do list” this time, because we have no way of knowing what will and won’t be happening in May and June. We kept the dining guide intact, however, because of our sincere hope that all our beloved (585) restaurants and bars will pull through this. The PAUSE brought tough times and hard decisions to most businesses, this one included. Producing this issue of (585) was extremely challenging, as we did it with a skeleton crew. I need to thank Josh Flanigan, Caroline Kunze, and Cathy Monrad from the very bottom of my heart for stepping up, taking on a lot of extra work and responsibility, and getting this issue to press—and only one day behind schedule! Thanks also to our advertisers for sticking with us and our subscribers, who keep signing up and renewing despite the current atmosphere of economic uncertainty. We want to be here for you for the long haul. This issue, like the last one, will be available free of charge on our website. But if you’re holding it in your hands, doesn’t it feel good to not be looking at a screen? As always, thank you for reading—

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(585) May/June 2020. Published six times a year. Published bimonthly. Copyright ©2020 by JFM Publishing, LLC 1501 East Avenue, Rochester, NY 14610. Telephone (585) 413-0040. Fax (585) 413-0296. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any text or graphics without written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Send change of address to JFM Publishing, LLC, 1501 East Avenue, Rochester, NY 14610. Domestic subscription rates: $12/one year, $18/two years. Single issue: $3.95 U.S. Newsstand distribution is handled by Wolfe News Service, Inc. (585) assumes no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. A self-addressed stamped envelope must accompany all such submissions for possible return.

585mag.com | May/June 2020

Dialed in Around town | What2Where

Around town By John Ernst

The birds and the bees (and the butterflies) It’s the year of the lantana! These colorful, festive plants thrive in containers, gardens, and hanging baskets. With their flying-cr itterattracting qualities, any summer pollinator g a rd e n wo u l d b e incomplete without them. Bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies are attracted to the exceptionally sweet nectar, scent, bright color, and accessibility as a landing pad. Lantanas prefer dry heat, are strongest in direct sunlight, and are vulnerable to overwatering. With 150 varieties of lantana, they’re the perfect addition to your garden this spring.

Roc Brewing Co. expanding with F.L.X. Wienery Roc Brewing Co. isn’t going anywhere; instead, it’s achieving cofounder Chris Spinelli’s dream of expanding into the other half of its South Union Street building. “I can remember when we first moved in here always dreaming and joking in the back of my head that one day we’ll take over the whole building,” says Spinelli. “I’ve been saying it for years now and it was that last big thing I wanted to achieve when we opened up the doors here.” Through a partnership with F.L.X. Wienery, the enhanced space will include more seating, private event space, a brand new food menu, and an expanded beverage menu to include wine and cocktails. For a taste of F.L.X.’s addition to the menu, a November pop-up event between the wienery and Roc Brewing Co. featured loaded hot dogs, Koreanstyle street fries, foie gras burgers with white truffle shavings, and more. The partnership and expansion feeds the Inner Loop East Transformation Project, a City initiative to bolster housing, businesses, and entertainment along the newly-filled-in Inner Loop. 6

May/June 2020 | 585mag.com

Rochester native earns Hollywood acting award After appearing in nearly a hundred movies, TV shows, and commercials, Webster native Tommy Bechtold was chosen out of 1,500 candidates for the first-ever Hollywood award for lifetime achievement as an extra. The thirty-six-yearold Jimmy Kimmel regular is the recipient of a “Stanley,” (the trophy is a golden thermos)which recognizes background actors. The award comes with a $5,000 prize, which Bechtold plans to spend on Seabreeze season passes for his neices and nephews as well as “crazy things,” he says, “like rent, gas money, and new headshots.”

Gimme coffee We’re all feeling lethargic from long days lazing around the house. Try injecting some coffee into your day with these local innovations: Mad Bean hard coffee is offered in mocha and vanilla flavors, each indistinguishable from your favorite canned cold brew (except for the buzz!). The mocha tastes reminiscent of a droste orange chocolate, and the vanilla’s vanilla through-and-through. On the

fence? (585) magazine unofficially endorses the mocha. If you want to have your coffee and eat it too, Mochanola’s coffeeflavored granola is perfect for adding a roasted note to yogurt, smoothies, trail mix, or even by itself. We tried the French Vanilla, which surprisingly tasted spot-on like chocolate rice krispies. Stay tuned for a story on Gimme! Coffee, the regional chain, in our next issue.

Dialed In | Around town Chicken-eats-a: Exploring the (585)’s a-Maya-zing pop-up chicken scene

Chick Magnet Focused in the Finger Lakes Region, this food truck specializes in sandwiches. Its flagship meal—the titular “Chick Magnet”—offers a “super crispy deepfried chicken breast” on toasted New England–style roll, topped with lettuce, pickle spears, and housemade “Magnetic Sauce.” If that isn’t appealing, browse the menu of ten unique sandwiches, ranging from smoked barbecue and bacon to a fresh-veggie-loaded tofu chicken substitute. In addition to its food truck pop-ups, beginning May 13 Chick Magnet will serve sandwiches every Wednesday and Friday at Other Half Brewing Co. in Bloomfield. Visit chickmagnetflx.com for the full menu and location calendar.

Photos provided

Damn Good Chicken With the mission of “striving to make Damn Good Chicken just what the name says,” the New Jersey native chicken joint is returning this year with regular Damn Good Sunday Dinner pop-up events. Moving the Garden State chicken joint to the Flower City means a monthly collaboration with Julia K. Caters, where Damn Good Chicken founder Jason Derrin is the head chef. Follow Damn Good Chicken’s Facebook page for updates and locations. Chick’n Out Despite the name, the only thing to fear about this pop-up is missing it. Specializing in fried chicken, you can catch a regular Thursday night popup at Blossom Road Pub as well as various special events around the city. Can it support its claim that fried chicken is the most versatile food in the world? For details (and food you can taste with your eyes), visit chicknoutroc.com.

Underpants and Overbites, A Diary Comic! By Jackie E. Davis

Gallery 248 Tucked beside the Little Theatre on East Avenue is another one of Rochester’s little-known artistic treasures. Gallery248 offers a popup venue for local artists looking for temporary exhibits, explains founder Dana Abramson. “I moved downtown because I love urban living. But two-and-a-half years later, there’s really nothing to see. There’s no shopping ... things that are symbolic of urban living.” She decided to be the change she wanted to see in the world. “Next to the Little Theater 1, there are these beautiful display style windows, and I thought they would make the perfect shop downtown,” she says. Abramson didn’t have the startup capital for a business, but she could afford to lease the space. “I could create a venue for artists to display their work, and I’d make some income by renting the wall space. And by providing this ideal, premier gallery space for artists, and people can window shop as they’re walking by.” After opening in March, Gallery 248 has already seen great traffic—especially as a participant in First Fridays. 585mag.com | May/June 2020

Dialed In | What2Where

Get your spring on

A fresh spin on a romantic style Words and styling by Tanvi Asher Photos by Greg Hollar

“Primavera” roughly translates as “first spring.” It’s the first true full season of the Gregorian calendar; the first appearance of buds on trees. It’s also the first chance for flowers to bloom. If flowers aren’t synonymous with May and June, then what is? Hair garlands may conjure up images of storybook fairies and ’70s hippies, not to mention the crowds at Coachella. But lately, models and celebrities have been putting a fresh spin on the romantic style that goes beyond the flower crown, just in time for the summer festival season. See Beyoncé, who wove fresh roses into a sleek Heidi braid. Witness a sun-kissed Victoria Beckham highlighting her new chop with a delicately knotted wreath of daisies strung around her soft waves. Basking in an open field, Mariacarla Boscono paired a ribbed shirt and white Carhartt overalls with a single yellow 8

May/June 2020 | 585mag.com

daisy, tucked neatly behind the ear. Alexa Chung took a similar approach by slipping an orange-hued bloom—snagged from a bellini—into her textured long bob. For this issue, we paired up with local floral designer Nicole Beyrle of I Do Wedding Flowers. Front and center, the avant-garde gold crown topper features a fair amount of greenery in the form of eucalyptus, baker fern, variegated pittosporum, and bear grass. Beyrle doubled down on the drama with air plants, including tillansdia ‘Raspberry Rubra’. Aside from hair, wondering what to wear this spring? You’re not alone. As the warm sun begins to peek out from behind the clouds, we are all reckoning with what our springtime looks will be. The simplest answer is a statement dress. Whether in a bright floral or a bold stripe, a statement dress is a one-piece pick-me-up for any

springtime wardrobe. Thanks to the wide variety available in stores, pulling together a polished and stylish look has never been easier. Take it from the stylish women in Copenhagen, New York, and Paris, who ruled their local fashion weeks’ streetstyle in modest minis, fashion-girl midis, and edgy shirt dresses. The lesson is that an eye-catching frock is the coolest and chicest way to feel put together while exerting a minimal amount of effort. Simply pair with your favorite shoes of the season, top it off with a transitional jacket, and you’ll be good to go into summer. S e e B e y r l ’s p o r t f o l i o a t idoweddingflowers.co.

Dialed In | What2Where

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Dialed In | What2Where

TEAM: MUA JOSEPH ROTHROCK FOR BLUSH BEAUTY BAR HAIR BY BRITTNAY SNYDER FOR BLUSH BEAUTY BAR MODEL ALLY BERRY

SPECIAL THANKS TO THE GARDEN FACTORY IN GATES FOR ALLOWING THE USE OF ITS BEAUTIFUL GREENHOUSE.

May/June 2020 | 585mag.com

Dialed In | What2Where

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Explore Arts | Volunteer | Entrepreneur | Craft

We were more Indian once

Sejal Shah’s compelling essays reflect upon youth, race, and identity By Christine Green

Shah’s collection of essays examines themes of identity, gender, race, love, and home and how she navigates between and among the physical and emotional spaces of her life. Shah says dance and physical movement (she also studied ballet and modern dance) influenced her writing and artistic vision early on. One of her biggest inspirations is Rochester’s renowned choreographer Garth Fagan. Fagan is known for developing the “Fagan Technique,” which incorporates elements of Afro-Caribbean dance, ballet, and post-modern dance. She first saw the Garth Fagan dancers as a child, and she now credits that experience with helping her develop her sense of self and her writing style.

At only seventeen, Sejal Shah was the first Indian American in Rochester to perform an arangetram. An arangetram is a debut performance by a student of classical South Indian dance. Preparing for this event is no easy feat. It takes training and dedication and planning. It’s an event that isn’t about just the student and teacher but also family and community. Words and writing were just as important 12

May/June 2020 | 585mag.com

as dance during Shah’s teen years in Rochester. She loved going to the library and perusing the shelves of the poetry section. She’d take books home and carefully retype favorite poems and lines so that she could keep them with her. This weave of words and dance, of movement and poetry, takes form in her new memoir This Is One Way to Dance (University of Georgia Press, June 2020).

“I saw you didn’t have to fit yourself into someone else’s forms and that you could invent your own language. You could take a leap and trust that your audience could find you. And I think that Fagan stayed with me as a kind of totem of believing in your artistic vision.” After her undergraduate years at Wellesley College and before starting her MFA program at the University of

Explore | Arts

“This Is One Way to Dance is a book of essays. It’s also a conversation with the world, with the self. Like all great writing, it answers what one is told with the secret record of consciousness. Against the powers that mystify, it brings its own language— embodied, felt instances of lived experience; the brilliant, flashing parry of thought.”

Photos by Michael Hanlon

~ Jess Fenn, Rochester writer

Massachusetts Amherst, she returned to Rochester and took classes with the choreographer. The first chapter of her book is titled “Prelude,” in reference to her favorite dance by the company, “Prelude: Discipline Is Freedom.” “I saw that you could invent your own language; you just had to train and believe,” she writes. Shah’s book has made an impression on those who have read it. Wendy Call, a Seattle-based writer, edited the collection for Shah. “There are several reasons to read the book,” remarks Call. “One is to just enjoy the ways in which Sejal presents several decades of her life. It’s almost like she’s trying on different lenses with the different essays. And one of the things I really like about the book is that they function sort of like a kaleidoscope where there are these elements of her life that appear and reappear: her work as a teacher or her work as a writer, her practice as a dancer at different times in her life, relationships or primary relationships with her brother, with her parents, with her grandmother, with close friends. Those sort of appear and reappear in different configurations, and they’re all really beautiful.” Shah wrote these essays over the course of twenty years, and each essay is like a glorious colored shard of glass in the kaleidoscope. With each turn of the tumbler a rainbow of lyrical essays allows the onlooker to see and experience Shah’s life at different points in time and space. Poetry, memoir, and lyrical essays intersect and play off of each other throughout the collection. Local writer Nadia Ghent is a long-time writing student and friend of Shah’s who read the book and provided feedback on early drafts. She, like Call, appreciates

the variety of lenses Shah uses to tell her story. “It was just such a monumental work. There was just so much in it. It was such a journey through so many different kinds of ways to write, all circling around some of the very central themes of identity and connection.” Ghent rightly points out the central theme of identity in the book. Shah seeks to understand her place in the world as an Indian American (specifically Gujarati) woman and how the American racial landscape has influenced her life in countless ways. In her essay “Betsy, Tacy, Sejal, Tib.” Shah discusses what it was like growing up reading young adult books filled with white protagonists. These characters (think Nancy Drew and Trixie Beldon) got into adventures and solved mysteries. Shah poignantly imagines the young adult book she’d write with her friends as fellow Gujarati characters: “In each other’s kitchens, they ate Hot Mix (Rice Krispies, potato sticks, peanuts, lemon juice, and murchu); practiced moonwalking; kept secret track of who got her period first, watched their mothers making chaa and finding the crushed red pepper to sprinkle on pizza, and their fathers debating something or playing carom.” At the end of the essay she reflects on her childhood and that special, difficult, achy time of middle school and high school. “We were more Indian once, I know this. We were something else once. I feel this as a nearly physical ache, this knowledge, because it means I am something else now,” she writes. Holly Wren Spaulding, an author and interdisciplinary artist based in Maine, notes that Shah’s discussion of race

and identity helped her come to a new understanding of what it means to be South Asian. “I find her reflections on race and identity illuminating. They help me, a white woman, better understand what it’s like to move around in our world, in a South Asian American body, with the many complexities and challenges that fact provokes. On perhaps a deeper level, I admire how this voice arrives, from a distance, and brings me into an imaginative realm that is wholly her own, crisscrossed with identities, but distinct. No one else writes like this.” Shah hasn’t danced for a while now but says she wants to find her way back to it. She is currently working on a collection of short fiction. Readers who want to learn more about Shah can visit her website at sejal-shah.com. Readers are also encouraged to read her highly acclaimed 2019 essay, “Even If You Can’t See It: Invisible Disability and Neurodiversity,” published last year in the Kenyon Review at kenyonreview.org. Christine Green is a local freelance writer and teaching artist. Learn more at christinejgreen.com.

Local poet Albert Abonado has just released his latest collection of poetry, Jaw (Sundress Press, 2020). Abonado’s poetry is both a surreal and moving exploration of what it means to be Filipino in America. Abonado teaches creative writing and hosts Flour City Yawp on WAYO 104.3FM.

585mag.com | May/June 2020

Explore | Volunteer

In a league of its own

How the Junior League of Rochester’s Applehood & Motherpie became a timeless classic By Erin Scherer

On a sunny Sunday afternoon in February, members of the Junior League of Rochester are working on the Strawberry and Onion Salad recipe from their cookbook Applehood & Motherpie. Cookbook committee chair Stephanie Williams slices the romaine lettuce horizontally. After finishing, she calls out, “Who wants the task of chopping the onions?” Another member, Chelsea Wernick, volunteers, and Williams moves on to chopping the strawberries. Christina Leal, whose house it is, is making the poppyseed dressing that gives the salad its distinct flavor. When the salad is finished, it is served along with charcuterie and crab burgers, another recipe brought in by Arlene Vanderlinde, a sustaining member who had served as a tester during the making of the original cookbook. Growing up in Walworth, Williams took notice of the frequent appearance of Applehood & Motherpie in the kitchens of her friends’ parents. “I always noticed this cookbook, and I was like, ‘What is this cookbook?’” she recalls. “When I joined the Junior League, they mentioned that they were the publishers of Applehood & Motherpie, and I got really excited. It really piqued my interest from my background as a journalist, a lifestyle writer, and a food lover.” Since its publication nearly forty years ago, Applehood & Motherpie has sold copies in the six figures. Its unforgettable 14

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green and red cover has become an icon in kitchens throughout Western New York, and it is considered by many the crème de la crème of Junior League cookbooks. It has also been inducted into the Walter S. McIlhenny Hall of Fame, an honor reserved for community cookbooks that have sold more than 100,000 copies. As chair of the cookbooks committee, Williams—who had been drawn to the Junior League as a foodie—organizes monthly gatherings devoted to making recipes from Applehood and its 1991 follow-up, For Goodness Taste.“I want to get our membership more excited about our cookbooks so that everyone can accurately speak to the legacy, history, and special place in our culture that these cookbooks have.” While cookbooks may play a significant role in the life of the Junior League of Rochester, it’s more than just a fan club for food lovers. Founded in 1901 by Mary Harriman (sister of the late New York Governor W. Averell Harriman), the Junior League is a women-only organization encouraging volunteerism, and community service and cultivating the professional development of women. Its membership of 150,000 spans 291 Leagues in four countries. Among its famous members are former first ladies Eleanor Roosevelt, Betty Ford, Nancy Reagan, and Barbara and Laura Bush; Supreme Court Justice Sandra

Day O’Connor; and entertainment figures like Julia Child, Katharine Hepburn, and Shirley Temple Black. The Rochester chapter was organized in 1933, and in the last decade, its membership has more than doubled from forty members to nearly 100. The JLR’s current ongoing endeavors include a diaper bank to provide diapers to needy families and fundraisers like the Battle of the Brunches, where local restaurants serve tastings of their best brunch items, and the new Craft Brewery Challenge, where one can buy a passport

Photos by Kate Melton

Explore | Volunteer

that offers discounts from participating breweries. It has also teamed up with other Junior Leagues throughout the state in support of the Homeless Children and Youth Act (HYCA), a proposed New York State law to make housing for children and youth experiencing homelessness easier to access. To join, one must be twenty-one years or older. Provisional members—as new members are called—must attend an orientation meeting, which the JLR holds three times a year, where the history of

the JLR and its committees are discussed. Then the provisional member is required to complete a project and present it to the membership. Past provisional member projects have included conducting fundraisers and drives for the JLR’s diaper bank; creating dressing rooms, gym space, and a yoga wellness night at Sojourner Home; assisting in the research and creation of a grant database; and creating a fitness program for girls at GatesChili High School. Following project completion, provisional members become

full, active members, and are assigned to a committee chosen for them based on their interests. After seven years, they have the option to become “sustaining members”— meaning that they remain members but are no longer involved in the day-to-day operations. It was the interest in having a long-term, permanent fundraiser that led the JLR to initiate what became Applehood & Motherpie in 1979. “At the time, it was a tried-andtrue fundraiser,” says Vanderlinde, alluding to the success of Junior League cookbooks 585mag.com | May/June 2020

elsewhere, such as Charleston Receipts (Charleston, SC), Soupçon (Chicago), and San Francisco A La Carte (San Francisco). Lucia Shaw, who had returned to the JLR after leaving to have two children, was brought on as the chair for the project by what was then known as the Ways & Means Committee. “Tori Butler, who was head of the Ways & Means Committee, said to me, ‘Okay! Time to get back in, and I have just the place for you!” Shaw and Alice Smith, who was assigned the role of recipe chairperson, set about soliciting recipes from the community, and Shaw acknowledges that finding recipes was initially a challenge. “It was hard to talk people into submitting recipes. Unless they were Junior League members, they didn’t realize, even though they had been told, that we were planning on this going nationally.” The names of those who submitted the recipes were removed so that the testers couldn’t know the authors, and the recipes were rated on a scorecard. “We had a very strict tasting sheet that cooks had to fill out,” says Shaw. “They had to fill out information on the ease of preparation and the ease of finding the ingredients. Each recipe got a green slip of paper, and they had to rate it. There were four categories: Excellent, Okay, Medicore, and Forget It.” Evaluations where recipes that were rated badly because the tester disliked a particular ingredient were tossed out. According to Smith, recipes were tested at least three times with several testers. Some, like Shaw, wound up testing more than 100 recipes: “I tested 144, and I looked it, too!” Two thousand recipes were submitted; ultimately, 555 recipes made the final cut. Ingredients were taken in and out of recipes, and amounts were clarified for readers. “When a recipe called for cream sauce, we included amounts for 16

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that sauce as many do not know what proportions are needed for the sauce,” says Smith. In some cases, recipes were named by members: “I got to test the recipe that was called Apple Pinwheel, and I got to name it,” says Vanderlinde. “When I put the apples on the cake, it was in a form of a pinwheel. They let everybody openly contribute.” According to Shaw, they left out the usage of brand names for the sake of widening the appeal, and Shaw believes that has contributed to the book’s longevity. “We chose not to put any preserved foods, no brand names. For example, Hellmann’s mayonnaise is called Hellmann’s in the East, but it the West, it’s known as Best Foods.” Adds Smith: “We avoided brand names in order to add longevity to the life of the book. Brands come and go, and geographic areas do not carry all.” Applehood & Motherpie is bound by its flexible three-ring binder, with the user being able to remove recipes with ease and allowed the book to prop itself up, standing in contrast to the standard spiral binding of previous Junior League cookbooks. It was innovative at the time, and the idea came from Shaw’s husband, who had been given a similar binder while attending a business conference. “He had been to a conference, and they had those materials they gave attendees. It was not a cookbook; it was a notebook and it stood up.” He came home and demonstrated the binder to Shaw. “He said, ‘Ever thought of doing this?’ This was

before the stand-up, Plexiglass holder.” Then there’s the infamous title. It’s not uncommon for Junior League cookbooks to highlight facets of their region. There’s Tea-Time at the Masters (Augusta, GA), A Taste of Aloha (Honolulu), and Jambalaya (New Orleans). According to Vanderlinde, the apple theme was decided early on because “this area is apple country and home to so many different varieties” and the name Applehood & Motherpie was a malapropism that came entirely by accident. “Gayle Medill was the president of the League at the time. We were sitting in a room, brainstorming names for the cookbook,” remembers Vanderlinde. “I remember sitting in a chair, and she came up to me and said, ‘How about Applehood and Motherpie?’ What she meant to say was Motherhood and Apple Pie, and it came out backward. Everyone looked at each other and said, ‘Oh my God, that’s perfect!’” Applehood & Motherpie was published in March 1981, and it took off quickly. Subsequently, the JLR released a limited edition of Applehood with an additional tab’s worth of recipes. By 1984, the book was available in all fifty states and was sold through mail-order catalogs like Talbots and Jessica’s Biscuit. That year, the book sold its 100,000th copy when a Farmington woman bought Applehood at Lock, Stock, and Barrel at Eastview Mall as a birthday gift for her mother. A party was held in October to commemorate the occasion and

honored that customer. Seven years later, the JLR followed up Applehood with For Goodness Taste. Unlike Applehood, the recipes in For Goodness Taste were not named or subheaded. Nor were Vanderlinde, Smith, and Shaw (who’d stepped away from active membership after Applehood’s publication) involved in the cookbook’s making. Its Martha Stewart–style “entertaining” and gourmet themes were in step with other Junior League cookbooks of that time period, such as Los Angeles’s Gourmet LA. “I love the recipes in it, but it’s a whole different format,” says Shaw. The most recent printing of Applehood was in 2011 and may very well be the final edition available in print, according to Williams. From that point, the JLR will continue to publish it as an e-book.“We are hoping that the last 4,000 copies or so will be placed in the hands of a new generation of at-home cooks,” says Williams. “I can’t say anything for certain, because we haven’t reached the threshold of running out of inventory.” In the meantime, Applehood & Motherpie will celebrate its 40th anniversary next year. According to Williams, there are plans for a celebration. “There is definitely something in the works. All I have to say is wait and see.” Erin Scherer wrote about Boundary Breaks in the March/April issue. She has a copy of Applehood & Motherpie at home in Geneva. 585mag.com | May/June 2020

Explore | Entrepreneur

The ladies of Laughing Gull

Chocolatiers create community for their families and others by Katie DeTar

Laughing Gull Chocolates owners from left: Allison Zukowski, Karla Boyle, and Lindsay Tarnoff

“Saving the world through chocolate.” That’s the bold statement proclaimed by Lindsay Tarnoff, one of three city of Rochester entrepreneur-owners of Laughing Gull Chocolates on East Main Street. And while saving the world may seem like an unattainable feat, Tarnoff and co-owners Karla Boyle and Allison Zukoski are creating community, camaraderie, and cultural understanding through cacao. Tarnoff came to Rochester in 2016 from Rhode Island. She was starting to grow a chocolate business and had recently had her first child. She met Boyle at a breastfeeding group, and the seeds were planted to grow Laughing Gull into not only a successful chocolate business but also one that would suit their need for support as new moms and entrepreneurs. “Rochester has a long history of entrepreneurship, of good business,” says Tarnoff. “The food businesses here—the small businesses are great—and the love of local and local products is unique.” The three owners work with each other as businesswomen, as fellow moms, and as friends. The daily tasks range from filling orders, creating new and unique products, and the daily operations 18

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of running a business and running their households. Together, they support one another on the journey and offer their personal skills and talents. Tarnoff often acts as the spokesperson of the business and serves as the creative force behind new products and flavors. Boyle brings management experience. Zukoski handles what they call “the boring stuff ” of finance and operations. “We are all very good at adjusting, and it’s an ever-growing thing,” says Zukoski. “As the kids grow, things change and transform, just like the cacao bean.” Laughing Gull Chocolates is known for hand-rolled truffles made from high quality ingredients, unique flavor combinations, and its popular salted caramel truffle. The truffle is so popular that the women made the center filling into their best-selling salted caramel sauce. Customers get excited about the chocolate, but also those local connections that are so important to Tarnoff, Boyle, and Zukoski. They use Pittsford Dairy milks, Happy Earth Tea, Once Again Nut Butter, and First Light Creamery cheese in their truffles, and offer the Chai Guy drink blends at the beverage bar. They also partner with area businesses, including Living Roots Winery, OSB

Photos by Kate Melton

Explore Ciderworks, and Lovin’ Cup for themed dinners, custom truffle flavors, and tasting events around greater Rochester. While Rochestarians are coming to know and love Laughing Gull’s chocolate, they’re also scooping up tickets to its special events and workshops. February’s chocolate and wine pairing event with Living Roots Winery sold out weeks in advance, as did its truffle making workshops. That chocolate fans are eager to learn more about their product is no surprise, given recent trends in gifting and leisure time.According to a 2018 Harris Poll, sixtythree percent of adults living in the United States would rather receive an experience gift than a material gift, and thirty-six percent of American adults wanted to attend more live and experiential events. “People are looking to enhance their lives in new ways—they are seeking that immersive experience,” says Tarnoff. “Touching, trying, using your hands and all of your senses, and then you get to go home with something you’ve made.” Luckily for us, more workshops and special events are planned into the spring and summer seasons. These sessions range from learning about the history and growing regions of cacao—the bean from which chocolate is made—to roasting and grinding beans on site and rolling truffles by hand. Family, business, or school groups can book a private workshop to learn more about, and indulge in, handmade, ethically sourced chocolate. Tarnoff, Boyle, and Zukoski believe that ethically sourced ingredients are not only important for the health and wellness of the planet and farmers around the world, but they also make the chocolate taste better. Their workshops highlight the best practices they have come to use for cacao sourcing, including fair pay for farmers, ethical standards for the treatment of workers, and environmentally sound harvesting practices. Workshop par ticipants share the experience of tasting chocolate from different regions around the world, noting the subtle flavor changes and learning about the countries where chocolate grows. Laughing Gull’s owners believe their customers come to see chocolate in a new way. “All of our truffles for the most part are made with what’s called direct trade organic. It’s a stone-ground chocolate, so it’s unique. It’s primarily dark chocolate. It’s going to have a little more texture than most people are used to, and it has a very bold flavor,” says Tarnoff. Laughing Gull’s chocolates are in demand. Its truffle club—a monthly subscription

47 Years and Counting

As we endeavor to recover from the challenges of this unprecedented time, all of us at Geva want to thank the Rochester area community for your patience, love and support. Together, we will weather this storm and raise the curtain once again. Please consider making a donation to Geva Theatre Center today at GevaTheatre.org.

585mag.com | May/June 2020

Explore | Entrepreneur

box of current flavors—created a following of loyal regulars.This past February,Tarnoff, Zukoski, and Boyle created 250 chocolate truffle favors for the thirty-fourth annual Chocolate Ball to benefit Epilepsy-Pralid. They also fill regular wholesale and custom orders. The café’s goal of building global community starts right here at home, as Laughing Gull’s owners hosts Rochester City School Distr ict students and community groups for chocolate history lessons and hands-on workshops.The space itself is designed to feel like a living room, hosting kids and community members. “It just kind of evolved. I had my first child—I didn’t know what it was like to have a baby—and we started in the space and we had one little mat where they would lay and we would sing to them, and then they started to move, and the play space grew,” says Tarnoff. 20

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Tarnoff, Zukoski, and Boyle bring their young children to work with them daily, allowing the kids to play and grow together amid the daily work at the shop. Vendors and customers have come to expect the vibrant energy of the space, and fellow parents and mom friends will stop by for a custom beverage, community connection, and some playtime. Some of those customers have migrated from Beautiful Birth Choices, a parent resource, birth education, and community space located nearby on Winton Road. Tarnoff and Boyle met at BBC, as it’s affectionately known, when their children where very young. Zukoski was an early customer, often visiting the space with her young child. “We are so lucky to have found one another. We are passionate about chocolate and about supporting each other and our kids,” says Tarnoff.

Parenting, much like owning a business, is a multifaceted job, with many uncertainties and endless opportunities for growth. There are ups and downs, heartaches, and joys common to both ventures. Being entrepreneurs and multi-tasking parents at the same time? That’s been the sweet spot of success for the ladies of Laughing Gull. “There are always things that are hard, but we get to choose to work with our kids and advance our careers. And at the end of the day do something we feel good about,” says Boyle. “The camaraderie and the passion to make this all work is a privilege.” Katie DeTar is the host and producer of the television travel series Fringe Benefits, a freelance writer, and creator of the women’s travel and lifestyle blog wildwomenoftheearth.com.

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Just South of NYS Thruway, Borders Route 96 Near Canandaigua & Geneva

CliftonSpringsChamber.com ~ 315.462.8200

585mag.com | May/June 2020

Explore | Craft

Melting pots

Borough Furnace forges its own path by Carolyn Sperry

May/June 2020 | 585mag.com

Explore | Craft

Photos provided

In 2014, Liz Seru and John Truex got a phone call they didn’t expect—Anthony Bourdain wanted to feature their new business, Borough Furnace, on his show Raw Craft. “That was an amazing call to get out of the blue,” says Seru. “We’ll be forever grateful.” Borough Furnace started making its handmade cast iron cooking products in Syracuse in 2013, offering just two sizes of skillets at the outset. Truex was already a highly regarded industrial designer when they began planning the business from scratch; Seru, his life partner, has a background in art and enjoys working with her hands, so jumping into the business was a natural fit. When Bourdain visited the workshop, he admired their crucible as well as the painstaking trimming, grinding, buffing, and sand blasting that result in high-quality handcrafted products. He then used one of Borough Furnace’s freshly manufactured skillets to cook steak au poivre over the couple’s melting furnace. Happily, the show appearance was a great boost for business, and Truex and Seru have been re-investing in the company ever since—they now produce several products, including roasting pans, casseroles, and cazuelas. Borough’s products are made with design and functionality, as well as human health, in mind—there are no unpronounceable chemicals in these pans, Seru explains, but they are easier to use than vintage cast iron because they sit flat, they balance better on the stove, and their longer handles stay cool during

cooking. “They also have thicker walls for good searing,” she explains. The pans are pre-seasoned with organic flaxseed oil before they leave the workshop, so they are ready to use right out of the box. Not only is each product handmade, but the couple make their own molds as well. The molds are made using sand, and making a mold is “like putting two halves of a sandcastle together,” Seru says. The couple is environmentally conscious, and Borough Furnace uses sustainable practices. It uses all recycled iron as source material, and the sand it uses to make the molds can be reused. The supply chain is all US-based. Various reclaimed materials have served as fuel along the way, and the couple is now working on establishing solar energy in their new workspace in Owego. These days, Seru and Truex live in Ithaca, and they enjoy their commute “through beautiful farmland” to go to work, she says. Owego

“has a lot going on,” and it has been a welcoming and lovely community to work in. The couple plans to keep offering their popular cast iron products as well as some new enameled iron cookware. Borough recently introduced a Dutch oven coated in a semigloss porcelain enamel. This product is currently the only enameled cast iron Dutch oven made in the United States, and, true to form, the porcelain enamel formula adheres to strict environmental standards. In the future, Borough Furnace will continue to innovate, and the couple hopes to offer products that are more democratically priced, says Seru.They enjoy experimenting with new products in their own kitchen before offering them for sale. In the meantime, she says, many customers are thrilled to find the cast iron products to give as gifts. The skillets are especially popular as wedding gifts—“Sometimes parents are not ready to hand on grandma’s skillet”—so Borough products are helping to launch plenty of new couples’ cooking journeys in consummate style. The products are not sold in stores, but they are available at boroughfurnace.com. Carolyn Sperry is a freelance writer who lives in Rochester.

Benevolent bookends Before his death in 2018, worldfamous (and Rochester-based) furniture designer Wendell Castle ramped up his philanthropic efforts. With a career starting at Rochester Institute of Technology in 1962 teaching woodworking and furniture design, one of his last projects was a collaboration with Josh Owens, head of RIT’s industrial design program. Together, the artists designed and sold unique bronze-cast bookends to benefit the Support for Knowledge project, which aims to fund a new facility for the program’s rapid growth under Owens. John Truex and Liz Seru of Borough Furnace have inherited Castle’s vision for the program and continue his legacy by forging the bookends designed by Owens and himself. The bookends are on sale at shoponecollection.com, RIT’s contemporary fine art, craft, and design shop that showcases work by RIT alumni, faculty, and current students. —John Ernst 585mag.com | May/June 2020

In the garden After being stuck in the house all spring, everyone wants to get outsideâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and interest in gardening has gotten quite a boost. We have the ideas, inspriation, and information you need.

Photo by ?

585mag.com | May/June 2020

All in the Family BILL AND JUSTINE MAPSTONE HAVE NURTURED CROSMAN’S SEEDS FOR THREE GENERATIONS By Sally Dixon

He may have “retired” in 1996, but Bill Mapstone still comes into the offices of Crosman’s Seed Company at 511 West Commercial Street in East Rochester just about every day. So does his wife, Justine, to help their two sons,William and Craig. Together, the family runs the now 182-year-old company, still thriving via sales of its highly regarded lawn, flower, and vegetable seeds and the large number of landscapers who depend on Crosman’s for the company’s special mixes of lawn seed. In fact, from the time Charles Frederick Crosman founded it in 1838, the business has been a family-run company. When Charles died in 1866, the business passed to his sons Charles W. and George F. Crosman, then aged 20 and 17, respectively, who went on to thoroughly organize the business and expand its operations with seed beds throughout the Rochester area and in Canada and Michigan. 26

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Crosman’s business grows through seed trials The Crosmans used their seedbeds as testing grounds. By distributing large quantities of choice seed varieties to farmers in Monroe County in exchange for a part of the crop, they developed hardy and highly acclaimed seeds. The business continued to expand after wholesale and retail outlets opened in the City of Rochester, and, by 1880, Crosman’s Seeds was one of the biggest seed houses in the world. Initially located at 346 East Main Street, its first headquarters became 905 Monroe Avenue in Rochester, a three-story brick structure that is one of the oldest buildings of its kind in the United States. Today it’s home to the Center for Youth, while Crosman Seed Company is now located in East Rochester, where it’s been since 1927. Mapstone ownership dates back to 1928 Bill Mapstone’s father, Herbert, worked with the Crosman family and acquired ownership of the company by 1928. He

bought the buildings of Crosman’s current long-time location from Kate Gleason, who had used them for the manufacturing of Northfield trailer cars until another competitor put her out of business. (Gleason is well known as the first woman to study engineering at Cornell University, and her father started the gear-cutting company called Gleason Works. She was also behind the complex of fifty-five concrete houses built between 1919 and 1925 in East Rochester, the Concrest Development, designed to provide affordable housing for working-class people.) When Herbert died in 1979, his son Bill Mapstone became president of the company, which is where he also met his wife, Justine.“I came to Crosman’s in 1966 for a summer job while I was in college and ended up marrying the boss’s son,” says Justine with a smile. Both Bill and Justine grew up in East Rochester. For years they lived on Canandaigua Lake but moved back to East Rochester thirteen years ago, which makes it easy for them to come in to Crosman’s each day.

Bill Mapstone

Photos by Michael Hanlon

Third-generation Mapstones now operating the business The two work closely together with their sons William and Craig. While Bill handles all kinds of special projects for customers, their two sons are the current operational directors, with William primarily handling the lawn seed business. Justine takes care of all the office and billing details, serving as office manager. Her favorite sweatshirt proclaims: “Office manager because freakin’ miracle worker isn’t a title.” “I make things happen, because I basically know where everything is,” she says. Clearly, Justine is the glue of the family’s operation. The Mapstones previously employed some non-family members who have since retired—one of whom was ninety years old when she left her job. But these days it’s just the family of four running the business, which has changed over the years in terms of distribution channels and what they sell. Seed business evolved with the times Dur ing the Great Depression, the company supplied seeds at reasonable prices and donated seeds for area Victory Gardens during World War II. Following the war, the company developed eight mixtures of lawn seeds for retail sale, which remain the basis of their seed mixtures today.While Bill’s father was the owner, the company also directed its interests and sales to wholesale packet production and supplied national chain stores. These days their biggest business is

in lawn seed, fertilizer, and lawn care. Their Town & Country mix is the most popular lawn seed mix. “We had to get smaller and consolidate the business some more,” says Justine. “The bulk of our business is contractors w h o wo r k o n m a j o r ro a d way s . Subcontractors like the guys who work with Rochester Gas and Electric and the University of Rochester come in, and each has their own special mix of lawn seed they like to use.” Homeowners also come in for Crosman’s lawn products, and most of that business arrives through word of mouth. Although Justine mentions one customer who told her, “I don’t tell my neighbors I come here. I want the best lawn in the neighborhood!” Crosman’s is well known for providing advice to their customers, and the Mapstones enjoy educating people about lawncare and growing flowers and vegetables. Justine takes school and other groups through the facility, which includes a big warehouse, on tours. Now mixing old with the new The Mapstones still sell packets of flower and vegetable seeds, most of them online through their website, crossmanseed.com, or by mail order, but it’s the smallest part of their business. Second after lawn seed is special packages of flower and vegetable seeds—kits that Bill fills for school science classes from around the country.

The office area has high ceilings and is filled with boxes of seed packets together with wooden cabinetry from the 1920s and several computer screens. The walls feature photos that highlight the history of the company, which Bill mentions has been documented with a display at the Smithsonian Institute. But Crosman’s Seeds has also mastered mixing tradition with today’s trends. More recently, the company has developed a health and wellness division spearheaded by William’s wife, Diedre, who is interested in holistic products and therapies—and in diffuser-produced scents provided by essential oils, versus the lingering fragrance of seed and fertilizer mixed with old building. The division includes partnerships with other companies, including HempWorx CBD Products, doTerra Essential Oils, and the Reikery. Working for a living—and time off The company is truly a family affair, but not one to seek attention, says Bill. “We’re reclusive people. We just want enough business so that we can take some time off.” “Most people watch TV and drink beer after they retire,” he jokes. “I like popping in here most days.” Sally Dixon is a freelance writer from Webster who especially enjoys working with health and human service clients. 585mag.com | May/June 2020

Encourage reproduction win the garden

AN ESTIMATED EIGHTY PERCENT OF OUR WORLD’S FOOD CROP REQUIRES POLLINATION TO SET SEED By Laurie Mercer

If you are the kind of person who slept through a lot of science classes, you may have missed the lesson about pollinators— you know, the insects and animals who dart about foraging for nectar while spreading pollen from the male anther of a flower to the female’s stigma. This romantic pas de deux helps bring about fertilization. Without pollinators we would have nothing to eat, and wild and domestic bees are the bee’s knees when it comes to facilitating reproduction. A recent study published in the Journal of the Royal Society Interface says bees can judge the nectar they are foraging on based on how quickly they can bring it back up into wax receptacles in the hive called “honey pots.” We do not make this stuff up. Butterflies are key but not as robust. Those long skinny legs don’t carry as 28

May/June 2020 | 585mag.com

much pollen as the hairy little John Belushi look-alikes do. It happens more than once. Many pollinator species form a network of interactions. Common pollinators include bees, wasps, hoverflies, mosquitoes, butterflies, and moths. For vertebrates, add birds and bats to the pollen rhumba. Possums, rodents, and humans also pollinate plants.Taking no chances, many farmers seasonally import domestic bees from beekeepers. So before you plant your flower boxes this spring, consider the pollinators’ love objects. Certain plants attract certain pollinators.Think of it as Tinder for insects, hosted by Mother Nature. Hummers love plants in red and purple. Butterflies can even taste with their feet! Without the milkweed family, monarch butterflies would have no place to lay their eggs. The

incredible journey and obstacles faced by pollinators goes on and on; you can help them. Look to coneflower, sunflower, zinnia, larkspur, cosmos, poppy, verbena, sweet William, tansy, black-eyed Susan, and other wildflowers. Growing wildflowers from seed is much more economical, and you get stronger plants. Wild Seed Farms (wildseedfarms.com), in Texas, has a pollinator mix of twenty-four strong color varieties to cover 625 square feet at $16.50 for a quarter pound. For a community garden, $42.50 will get you a pound of seeds to provide 2,500 square feet of colorful, pollinator-loving annual and perennial plants. And locally owned Crosman Seed Company (see story, this issue) offers wildflower packets you can purchase locally and at crosmanseed.com.

Photos by Jane Milliman except bottom right, by Laurie Mercer

Growing tips include: • Site: Plant on well-drained soil, where you have eight hours daily of direct sun. • Prep: Lightly till the surface to a maximum depth of one inch. Digging deeper can release more dormant weed seeds. • Mix: A blend of sand, perlite, and/ or potting soil provides for better distribution. Four parts inert material to two parts seed is recommended. • Plant: Press the seed into the soil but not below 1/16 inch. Do not cover. It’s ok to see the seed. • Water and weed: Weeding is easier after a rain. • Mulch: Once your plants are up, mulch 1 to 3 inches deep to keep the weeds down, preserve moisture, and add humus. Clean straw is ideal or even newspapers.

• Let it be: Mother Nature demands patience; no fertilizer is needed. • Relax: Native plants, like milkweed, take care of themselves. Tropical milkweed (annual) and butterfly milkweed (perennial) are butterfly magnets. • Heads Up: Straight-up turf does nothing for pollinators, though if you let some little “weeds” like clover mix in, that can be a help. And a bowl of mud gives butterflies a drink, which, for them, requires mud. Oh, you sexy thing! Here’s how it works— Humans benefit from the pollinator’s lack of precision when it spreads its joy around. Nectar provides the energy for bee nutrition; pollen provides the protein. Bees and their kin even have a modified hind leg known as a pollen basket. They

are here to help us. In fact, colonies of bees are replacing humans as the primary pollinators for greenhouse tomatoes. But life is not a bed of roses. In 2015, President Obama’s administration released the national strategy to promote the health of honeybees and other pollinators. The intent is to “tackle and reduce the impact of multiple stressors on pollinator health, including pests and pathogens, reduced habitat, lack of nutritional resources, and exposure to pesticides.” The EPA and U.S. Department of Agriculture are leading the task force. But don’t hold your breath. We can do our part right now in our own backyards.

585mag.com | May/June 2020

An unusually beautiful garden AN AFICIONADO REVEALS HER PRIME PICKS IN FLOWERING PLANTS

By Sally Dixon

May/June 2020 | 585mag.com

Above: Euphorbia 'Miner's Merlot' Above: 'Tiki Torch' petunia Left: 'Crocodile' geranium Below: Sedum 'Night Embers'

Above: 'Honeybells' Cuphea Below: Convulvus ‘Mauritanicas’

Below: Euphorbia 'Miner's Merlot' Above: ‘Sparks Will Fly’ Begonia Below: Pink buckwheat

Above: 'Honeybells' Cuphea Right: Wire vine

Photo, opposite, by Kate Melton; plant photos provided by Mast Young Plants, Proven Winners, and Peace Tree Farm

Right: 'Harvest Moon' osteospermum Left: ‘Mystic Spires’ salvia

If you’ve been a regular reader of (585) magazine over the last few years and are also an enthusiastic gardener, you’ll recognize Terri Sauerhafer’s name—she’s the owner Good Earth Greenhouse in Clifton Springs, and people come to her each year for plants that are out of the ordinary. That’s because Sauerhafer doesn’t grow or sell the usual flower or vegetable fare. “ O r a n g e m a r i g o l d s a n d re d geraniums are boring,” she says, “and the fun for me is tracking down new and different flowers and vegetables for people to plant. This year there’s a lot of variegated and black.” Sauerhafer admits that she’s an “annual girl” herself, and she urges people to cut their annuals and bring them inside to enjoy. “They cut so nice and by cutting them, they’ll bloom more, too.” Sauerhafer also offers seed-grown plants. She favors a new nasturtium called ‘Bloody Mary’, an orange dipladernia, and a geranium called ‘Crocodile’ with veining in its leaves. But her “favorite-favorite” seed-

Above: 'Yellow Glow' impatiens Right: Oxalis

grown plant is pink buckwheat. “It was amazing last year and grew to about six feet tall. It flowered and I thought it was done, but it just kept growing. I put it at the end of a veggie bed, and it flowered all summer.” She typically orders seeds and plants from about fifty different sources so that she can offer the variety she prefers, and often doesn’t favor a new plant until she tests it for a year. It’s important to remember that while Sauerhafer and her crew at Good Earth Greenhouse grow a wide selection of plants, you won’t find a lot of any specific plant, so you’re wise to visit her early, whether it’s at the greenhouse in Clifton Springs or at the Rochester Public Market on Flower City Sundays. And oh ... by the way … May 2 is World Naked Gardening Day! Without further ado, here are Sauerhafer’s favor ites among the new plants she’ll offer this year for consideration in your garden, along with her comments.

Good Earth Greenhouse 877 LaRue Road Clifton Springs, NY 14432 315.462.2444 Find Good Earth Greenhouse on Facebook. Good Earth Greenhouse is open Monday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Sundays from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. from April 24 through June 13. Sauerhafer will also sell her plants at the Rochester Public Market’s Flower City Days, Sundays (canceled for this year—visit in 2021) but not during Memorial Day Weekend. Sales at Good Earth begin Memorial Day Weekend, when you can fill a tray of vegetable plants for a special price. On June 12 you’ll save fifty percent off everything, and on June 13, Good Earth has a giant sale to slash prices on everything that’s left. “I don’t like to wait until the end of the growing season and see the plants go downhill,” says Sauerhafer.

585mag.com | May/June 2020

Above: Euphorbia ‘Yokois White’ Below: Clematis 'Sparky Pink'

Above: Eupatorium ‘Elegant Feather’ Below: Pink dandelion

Above: 'Midnight Gold' petunia Below: 'Ringo' rose

Above: Blue anagalis Below: 'Celtuce' lettuce Above: 'Angel Wing' senecio Below: Cytisus ‘Sister Rosie’

Right: 'Fluffy' arborvitae Below: Variegated aptenia

May/June 2020 | 585mag.com

NEW PERENNIALS & SHRUBS • Pink dandelion—“I’m so excited about this!” • Euphorbia (spurge) ‘Miners Merlot’—“I love all euphorbias, and this one is claiming to be very dark and hardy.” • Sedum ‘Night Embers’—“Tall, dark, and I like it!” • ‘Ringo’ rose—“You have to see it!” • Philadelphus (mock orange) ‘Illuminati Tower’—“It has great form.” • Clematis ‘Sparky Pink’—“A hit in Europe but new here.” • Cytisus ‘Sister Rosie’—“A Scotch broom that looks interesting.” • Thuja (arborvitae) ‘Fluffy’—“I hope it looks like the picture.” ANNUALS • Cuphea (Mexican heather) ‘Honeybells’—“So cool looking, and these are hummingbird food.” • Osteosper mum (Afr ican daisy) ‘Harvest Moon’—“Looks kind of like a sunflower and reminds me of the Neil Young song.” • Nicotiana ‘Perfume Party’—“Var iegated foliage … what?! The flower and form remind me of mutabilis [four o’clocks].” • Petunias ‘Midnight Gold’ and ‘Tiki Torch’— “Just wow! And ‘Tiki Torch’ hits a lot of colors.” • Euphorbia ‘Yokois White’—“This is a summer poinsettia. Yes, please!” • New Guinea impatiens ‘Roller Coaster Hot Pink’—“So ruffled, fluffy, double, nice.” • Kalanchoe thrysifolia variegata’—“Like the original, but better.” • Cosmos ‘Mini Click White’—“Such pretty double flowers.” • Tomato ‘Copper Beauty’ and ‘Sunrise Sauce’— “Both have amazing flavor.” • Lettuce ‘Celtuce’—“This is lettuce grown for the stalk.” • Kale ‘Jagallo Nero’—“A sweet and mildtasting kale.” ALL-TIME FAVORITES • Eupatorium ‘Elegant Feather’—“For the refined eye.” • Convulvus ‘Mauritanicas’ (a ground cover morning glory)—“Am I the only one that likes it?” • Pink pilea—“The whole plant looks like a flower.” • Blue anagalis—“True blue.” • Variegated aptenia (ice plant)—“Unusual and super easy.” • Wire vine (muhlenbergia)—“For when you want to get artsy.” • Oxalis (shamrock)—“Every color this year!” • Fusion impatiens ‘Yellow Glow’—“Should be more appreciated.” • Senecio ‘Angel Wing’—“This hit two years ago and was an instant favorite.” • Tomato ‘Sunsugar Cher r y’—“Summer wouldn’t be the same without them, seriously.” • Celeriac, aka celery root—“I’m addicted.” • A few “honorable mentions” include ‘Sparks Will Fly’ Begonia, ‘Mystic Spires’ Salvia, and ‘Strawberry Blonde’ Marigold, among others.

SUMMER STYLE During the COVID-19 crisis, fashion took a back seat as many of us worked from home ... in our pajamas. It’s time to change that—let’s get dressed again!

585mag.com | May/June 2020

ROCHESTER’S

CHAMPION CHAMPION BRAND SPORTSWEAR IS HAVING A SERIOUS RESURGENCE IN STREETWEAR STYLE, BUT DO THE LOCALS KNOW ABOUT ITS ROCHESTER ROOTS? By Mary Ethel Rockcastle

“I have to say, Champion had the biggest glow-up of the past decade,” says Ashley [no last name given], aka BestDressed on YouTube. Ashley is a fashion influencer and content creator with more than 2 million subscribers. The video that mentions her blush cropped Champion hoodie, titled My Most Worn Clothing of 2019, has been watched nearly 1.5 million times. “Remember when you could buy Champion at Target for like $10? And now I honestly respect the s**t out of this company. I didn’t think that hoodie material could be better than other hoodie material, but it is,” she says in the video. Consumers in their 20s and 30s who grew up pushing Champion brand sweatshirts to the back of a rack at their local Target may have remained skeptical watching it become a trendy brand with young shoppers. How did a seemingly Target-exclusive sportswear brand grow into a status symbol among fashionforward youth? What many of the younger Rochester fashionistas pining for the Champion hoodie they saw on Instagram don’t realize is that it all started right here in our backyard. In 1919 the Feinbloom brothers started the company that would become the modern-day Champion, known then as the “Knickerbocker Knitting Company.” Its first headquarters was located on Goodman Street in the city and eventually relocated to Pittsford. The Knickerbocker Knitting Company quickly targeted the growing market on sportswear by signing exclusivity agreements with college sports teams like Michigan University. By keeping prices reasonable and creating high-quality sportswear, word about the brand began to spread among university coaches and the company rebranded to Champion Knitting Mills Inc. In the 1930s the quality and utility of the brand Champion was adopted by the US military and became popular among trainees at the academy. Champion introduced the hooded sweatshirt to the market and patented its “reverse weave” style of fabric production, which increased the durability of the knit fabric and 34

May/June 2020 | 585mag.com

decreased horizontal shrinkage. It was clear even in the 1930s that Champion had a focus on quality and innovations. While the hoodie seems like a staple in every Amer ican’s closet today, it took nearly fifty years for the hooded sweatshirt to become a mainstay among both professional athletes and comfort seekers alike. In the 1970s the Champion brand became synonymous with football players due to its partnership with the National College Athletic Association and subsequently the National Football League. In 1989 Champion was sold to the Sara Lee Corporation for $320 million. In 1989 Champion held 17 percent of the fleece wear market, but the acquisition pushed the innovative sportswear company to expand its market farther than just athletes and towards the general market. At the same time Champion partnered with the National Basketball Association to become the exclusive outfitter of all twenty-seven of its basketball teams, setting the brand up for the expansive success it would see in the 1990s. The ’90s is seen as the golden age of the NBA. The star factor of many NBA players bled into the music and tv stars of the decade embracing baggy branded sportswear as a fashion statement. Popularized by black music groups referencing the oversized clothing of their upbringing in cities like New York, LA, and Chicago, silhouettes in the ’90s were large, long, and undeniably comfy. Champion, while not overtly branded like other sportswear companies of the time like Tommy Hilfiger, Nautica, and Ralph Lauren, continued to make high-quality knitwear worn by fashionistas influenced by the streetwear of the time. Here’s where we hit a snag:What’s the least cool thing to wear in the early twenty-first century? Anything overtly branded as ’90s. When style shifted away from the baggy silhouettes of ’90s streetwear and towards the skinny jeans and fitted preppy style of the 2000s, Champion became gauche. One thing not lost in the early millennium was a love of gaudy branding to signal wealth and sophistication to our peers, but no one would be caught dead wearing the

brands of yesteryear. So Champion became what most of us in our late twenties and thirties remember it as: a high-quality sportswear brand mostly associated with Target and sporty people who weren’t particularly concerned with style. Most of us remember our moms buying us Champion brand sweatshirts for gym class, which for some reason was held outside in blustery Rochester late autumn. The comeback of Champion is a result of a cocktail of circumstances but mostly due to the cultural phenomenon where every thirty years or so we look back and find something cool in our past. Now in 2020, the fashion-forward are, ironically, looking back into the ’90s for inspiration. With its finger on the pulse, Champion began to put more focus on its brand by printing their trademark “C” logo larger and including some repeating patterns in its design to appeal to the hypebeasts of 2020. Today’s streetwear is less about what you’re wearing than who you are wearing, and the only way to know this is to blow up the logo and print it all over so there’s no question who made it. It’s been forty years since Champion was based in Rochester. After the acquisition by Sara Lee, there was originally talk that Champion would stay here. However, the tone quickly changed, and the headquarters were relocated to North Carolina. In 1998 Champion closed its last manufacturing plant in Western New York, leaving its Rochester roots behind for good. While Champion gave up its home in Rochester to become one of the most prolific sportswear manufacturers in the world, you can see the detailed and heartfelt work ethic Rochester people instilled in the company. The focus on a well-made product that withstands the tests of time and trends to become synonymous with high-quality clothing reflects the care and thoughtfulness Rochester movers and shakers draw upon today. Mary Ethel Rockcastle is a maker who lives in the public market district with her partner and boy dog named Jayne.

585mag.com | May/June 2020

Illustration by Josh Flanigan

THE FUTURE IS

BRIGHT

DRESS FOR SUCCESS HELPS WOMEN LAND BETTER JOBS Sometimes, not knowing your path can lead you right to where you need to be. Alyssa Whitfield never imagined herself working in nonprofits, let alone running one. She had a background working in retail and loved fashion but didn’t know where in her career it would take her. After working for a sporting goods manufacturer and feeling unfulfilled, she began to work for Roland Williams’s foundation and thus her first foray into the nonprofit world. She realized there was more to a job than just selling product and that through work, you could serve a community. Alyssa continued to work for other nonprofits for fifteen years, yet she still felt as though something was missing. After sitting down and thinking about what she always loved and what kind of impact she wanted to have on the world, it was clear. All the signs pointed to something in fashion and giving back to the community in a meaningful way. It was then that she remembered seeing commercials for the Dress for Success nonprofit and found her perfect match. The Dress for Success Rochester Chapter has been open since 2015, and has served close to 700 women. The organization gives women the confidence to set out boldly in their career with all the tools and resources they need. And the organization is about so much more than the clothes. When a woman makes an appointment, not only is she fitted for a new, professional outfit, but she is matched with a volunteer, professional mentor who coaches her for the interview process. Her résumé is reviewed and edited, and she is taught to translate her current skills into other positions she may not have ever considered applying for. Once she has a job offer, she receives a ten-piece wardrobe and the opportunity to work with a mentor for the first ninety days. The services don’t end there; if needed, the woman can be connected with resources if she is running into issues that are hindering her work, such as childcare or transportation. 36

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Rochester’s chapter of Dress for Success also hosts a half day conference called Success in Sight for women in entry- and mid-level positions. Those in attendance have the opportunity to learn from community business professionals about financial wellness and how to overcome different employment issues. Whitfield’s favorite part of the day is the Resourcefulness and Resiliency panel, which is made up of women that have gone through the program and who talk about their achievements, giving advice and being ambassadors for Dress for Success. The future of Dress for Success is bright. Whitfield hopes that in the near future there will be a mobile Dress for Success boutique. There are many disadvantaged women who cannot make it the brickand-mortar shop, and she hopes to bring it to them. As long as there are underemployed women in the Rochester community

lacking the financial stability necessary to cover all of their expenses, there will be Dress for Success. “Any woman who can’t get a job and wants one is at a disadvantage and we need to help her. This is any woman, and I am so proud of the diversity of women who come through. We’ve had teachers with master’s degrees and women with no high school diplomas. And clearly we’re doing something here, because it is working for everybody.” says Whitfield. The Rochester Chapter of Dress for Success plans to have have its major fundraiser on May 29 at Anthology (check the website for possible COVID19–related rescheduling). You can learn more about the organization by visiting rochester.dressforsuccess.org. Betsy Harris is a born-and-bred 585-er and loves all things local. You can follow all of her adventures on Instagram at @betsysayshey.

Photo by Michael Hanlon

By Betsy Harris

585mag.com | May/June 2020

SUMMER STYLE

SOME TRENDS TO FOLLOW AND OTHERS BEST LEFT ON THE RACKS By Donna De Palma

May/June 2020 | 585mag.com

Photos courtesy Aimee Song

Summer fashion trends that will make you stand out will be on the racks, shelves, and websites of some of our favorite shopping destinations this summer. We asked fashion stylists and personal shoppers about the dos and don’ts of summer fashions this year. Four fashion pros: Denisse Espalter, marketing events coordinator for Lord & Taylor, Upstate New York, Meghan Mundy, cofounder of Rochester’s Fashion Week, Savannah Hense, personal stylist to celebs and clients nationwide; and Leah Kohler, store manager at Von Maur, weigh in on summer trends they love and those best left behind. Denisse Espalter is excited about sheer fabrics like chiffon and tulle for summer. Bermuda shorts dressed up with a blazer or flowy blouse is also a trend she loves. Espalter says the focus is on pastel colors and soft sorbets this summer. Polka dots continue to remain strong, but look for more stripes making appearances. Boho maxi dresses with a folksy look and crocheted fabrics are also winning trends, she says. “Some of the more extreme trends like oversized, puffy sleeves, bra accentuation, hot pants, and low-slung tailoring are best left to the runway or better-suited for women in their twenties. What’s best is what’s best for your individual body,” notes Espalter. She is never without a trench coat or a great pair of loafers, musts for any woman, and leather—especially softer leathers— are always a big hit, she says.

Meghan Mundy, a graduate of New York City’s Fashion Institute of Technology, believes Rochester is ready for cool and sexy fashion. “I often hear women say, ‘I can’t wear that here,’” Mundy says. Mundy is excited about pairing denim with ruffles or with silk and sequins this summer. Look for colors like cobalt blue and corals. “Romantic styling with lots of lace and puffy sleeves is big this year,” says Mundy, who also likes menswear-inspired fullpleated trousers for women in feminine colors like pale pinks and purples. She’s a yes for soft, flowing skirts, either in monochromatic tones or brights that feature romantic prints. The Bermuda shorts trend—if paired properly with an ultrafeminine blouse—can work on the proper silhouette, but she’s not a fan. She also says no to capri pants, whch she says are unflattering on most women. She’s not averse to bra accentuation for the right age group, and suggests that a white mesh top over a bright bra can be stylish. She likes drawstring-waisted pants and paper bag trousers on the right person. Mostly, Mundy favors leather and animal prints—never out of style. “Animal prints are sexy and current. Leather elevates any outfit and is being shown in colors and metallics,” she says. Mundy’s favorite jacket is a blazer. “A bustier under a jacket is very sexy; it’s what I call ‘a forever style.’” Mundy admits she’s a traditionalist when it comes to suits, though. “If you’re going to wear a blazer, pair it with a cocktail dress, and you’re well dressed for nearly any occasion,” she says.

too casual—but loves leather in colors and metallics, which, she says, provides unique texture with its buttery, smooth finish. Sheer fabrics and layers are a yes, too, for Hense, but she admits it’s time to retire ruching (gathering) for cleaner lines and a more structured look. Other trends she likes are mini bags, square-toed sandals with shaped heels, unstructured bottoms, and flowing skirts. Leah Kohler, store manager at Von Maur, notices that pastel colors are being shown everywhere. She’s also seeing red, yellow, white, and animal prints. “We have lots of what I call kitschy prints and motifs for summer. Bathing suits are in neon colors, electrics, and spice tones,” says Kohler. “Puffy sleeves, cinched at the wrist, are well-suited for happy hour or can go casual. Crocheted sweaters and bathing suit covers are also trending. Layering a tank or a slip piece under a crochet top or a blazer with sheer sleeves or a sheer back is also a great look. Metallics and tie dye for younger women are both strong trends this summer,” says Kohler. Whether you’re fashion forward or simply have your own sense of style, the pros say build your wardrobe with classic pieces and introduce a few trends for fun. The stylists are in agreement on keeping fashion streamlined and personal. “I tell my clients there are realistic styles available for the everyday woman to fit any lifestyle,” Hense says. Donna De Palma is a freelance writer based in Rochester..

Savannah Hense went to work in a department store directly out of college, working in product development as a liaison between designers—who put fashion to paper—and manufacturers. After a few years, she found she missed the one-on-one interactions with clients, so she went into business as a personal stylist. “Big box stores often knock off what’s shown on the runways. This summer, we’re seeing muted earthy tones; understated, mauvy pinks; and pattern play. There’s also the official comeback of the Bermuda short paired with strappy sandals and flowy blouses,” says Hense. Culottes are back too, according to Hense, who is happy to see their return though less happy to see low-rise jeans making a comeback. She’s a fan of puffy sleeves. “They offer a twist to the feminine shape, especially when paired with a slim-fitting pant,” she says. Yes, also, to wide-leg trousers, though she prefers to see them on the runway than in supermarkets as everyday wear. She’s not a fan of drawstring-waisted pants—

585mag.com | May/June 2020

May/June 2020 | 585mag.com

Research, planning, and communication are key BY MICHELLE SHIPPERS

For many families, getting a pet is inevitable.

Let’s face it, kids love animals. While my husband and I adopted our dog (a sweet Boston Terrier named Roo) several years before our son was born, about six months ago our he started talking about getting fish. Soon enough, we had a fishbowl with two neon fish. Since our son is only three, my husband and I took care of the fish, but we let him help feed them when he showed an interest. Despite our best efforts, the fish died a few months later. While our son handled the situation well, the life cycle of a pet is a key factor to consider when you make the decision to take on a family pet. Before heading to a local farm or animal rescue, here are four important things to consider.

DO YOUR RESEARCH Before you get a new pet, it’s important to understand what you are getting into. “There’s no such thing as a no-maintenance pet,” says Samatha Tandle, associate veterinarian at Pittsford Animal Hospital. “It’s important to think about the ongoing commitment that a pet brings, including lifespan. Even aquarium fish and hamsters need day-today maintenance.” At Lollypop Farm, prospective pet owners are required to meet with adoption counselors who introduce them to the animals and help them determine the pet that’s the best fit for their family based on their lifestyle and the pet’s needs. “We have a conversational-based adoption approach,” says Brenna Bonis, adoption and customer service manager at Lollypop Farm, where animals for adoption include cats, dogs, rabbits, small animals, birds, reptiles, and some farm animals. “We found that doing this removes the barriers for a customer; they don’t feel like they are being interviewed. They open up to us, and we are able to make matches based on their lifestyle.” Whether you choose to adopt from a location that offers adoption counseling like Lollypop or not, understanding the needs of a potential pet is key. 585mag.com | May/June 2020

Photos by Kate Melton

Four things to consider before getting a family pet

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“It can take weeks or months to train a puppy,” says Tandle. “They need to be let outside every two to three hours. Kittens are a bit easier. You just have to put them in the litter box a few times, and they will start using it because they want to bury their waste.” PREP YOUR HOME Prior to bringing a new pet home, make sure your house is ready. For a puppy, that means a crate or other confined space for them to sleep. Kittens also require a confined space with food and a litter box where they can adjust to their new surroundings before being allowed to roam. “It’s similar to having a kid in that you need to think about how to make things safe,” says Tandle. “Making sure there is nothing they can get into; poisons and toxins should be locked away. Electrical cords should be out of the way.” If adopting a kitten, Handle recommends providing them with multiple surfaces for scratching, such as cardboard and carpet. Since puppies like to chew, you should have chew toys available and put away small items or other things that could be dangerous.

May/June 2020 | 585mag.com

“It’s important to think about the ongoing commitment that a pet brings, including lifespan. Even aquarium fish and hamsters need day-to-day maintenance.”

WHO WILL CARE FOR THE PET? If your child is the one begging for a puppy, it may be tempting to use this opportunity as the time to teach responsibility. However, use caution when letting children care for animals. “Some families want the pet to be the responsibility of the child, but that’s not realistic,” says Bonis. “The parents need to be the role model for their child by showing them how to take care of the family pet.” Bonis recommends that kids watch their parents take care of the pet, doing tasks such as feeding, walking, or cleaning up the litter box. Eventually, kids may be able to take on some responsibilities under the parent’s watchful eye, but it should not become their sole responsibility to maintain. “However, you could assign an older kid a specific single task, like feeding the dog once a day.” says Tandle. There are other ways kids of all ages can participate in caring for a pet, such as playing/socializing (again, under the parent’s guidance and with training on how to play with the pet). Even if you believe your child can handle the responsibility of caring for a pet, they

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might not recognize when an animal is sick or in distress. “Ultimately, it’s still the adult’s responsibility to care for a pet,” says Tandle. Furthermore, she recommends that a new pet be seen by a veterinarian within the first seven days of being at its new home. While most people only think of needing a vet for their cat or dog, there are vets who will see other types of pets such as small animals, reptiles, or birds— but be sure to do the research to find a vet who specializes in these animals. Furthermore, some practices (including Pittsford Animal Hospital) may offer counseling to help you determine the pet that’s the best fit for your lifestyle before you choose to adopt or rescue an animal. ADDRESS ISSUES RIGHT AWAY Even if you follow these recommendations before getting a family pet, you may run into struggles after bringing your new family member home. Perhaps the puppy won’t train, or the cat keeps scratching. Before you look into returning or rehoming your pet, call the vet. “Some problems could be due to a medical issue,” says Tandle. For example, if a cat isn’t using the litter box, it could have a urinary tract infection. Or, if a dog won’t stop barking when you leave, it could have separation anxiety. Both of these common issues can be treated by a vet. “However, if it’s really not working and the pet would have a better life with another family, we can refer to local rescue groups where the animal can go to a foster house instead of the shelter.” At Lollypop Farm, support doesn’t stop on adoption day. In addition to counselor support after you leave, you also have the option to foster a cat or dog for two weeks before making a decision to fully adopt. “It’s one way to make the adopters feel more comfortable, so they can get them into the home,” says Bonis. For dogs, you can come back to Lollypop for training or behavior classes. Lollypop Farm also offers a twenty-four-hour “Pet Peeves” hotline (585-295-2999) in conjunction with the Humane Society. If you see behavior issues with a dog or cat, you can leave a message on the hotline and a trained volunteer will get back to you with advice. “The goal is to not cut contact once they have left,” says Bonis. “We try to be a part of the animal’s life for as long as the adopter wants.”

Racquet Replay Need to have your game critiqued? We offer video services to help you improve your skills. Email us for more information kate@katemelton.com

Capturing those great moments you strive for

Michelle Shippers is a Rochesterarea freelancer, mom, and dog mom. 585mag.com | May/June 2020

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The smell of craft is in the air Fun happenings surround the craft beverage industry BY JINELLE VAIANA

pringtime is a fine time to celebrate all our region has to offer in the way of award-winning craft beverages. For nearly a decade, craft beverage production has been booming in New York State, thanks to new licenses for farm-based breweries and cideries as well as tax incentives and other helpful legislation. Today, our state’s craft beverage producers include 450 wineries, 462 breweries, 186 distilleries, and seventy-two cideries, according to Empire State Development. The Finger Lakes and Western New York regions have been largely responsible for those successes and have come to celebrate them through events like the Rochester Cocktail Revival and Rochester Real Beer Week, just to name two. We’ve compiled several places below to visit in our region, by county, to celebrate craft beer, liquor, and wine. Due to the COVID-19 sutiation, some events may be rescheduled; please call ahead or visit individual websites to confirm—there is a list at the end of this story. 44

May/June 2020 | 585mag.com

Monroe County This county knows how to celebrate a fine beverage. The Rochester Cocktail Revival is a weeklong festival to promote cocktail culture, education, and celebration and is slated for September 8–13 this year. Rochester Real Beer Week & Expo celebrates craft beer and local breweries, and it kicks off with a rollicking street party on Gregory Street on June 13. Agness Wine Cellars, a Finger Lakes–region winery, produces its award-winning FLX semidry Riesling from grapes grown on Seneca Lake. The wine is also available for purchase in downtown Rochester at East Avenue Wine & Spirits and Schuber Liquor Store—as well as stores from Poughkeepsie to Buffalo and up to Lake Placid. Check Agness’s Facebook page every Friday to see where you can find its weekly tastings. Also located in downtown Rochester, Axes and Ales will fill you up on local craft drink options from Three

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Heads Brewing, OSB Ciderworks, Belt Line Brewing, Big Ditch Brewing, and more. Choose from eleven beers on tap, fifteen bottled, or fiftyfour canned. And with a frothy cold one in hand, you can practice your axe-throwing skills onsite. After a short tutorial by a coach, competitors throw an axe at a target with a bull’s eye to see who has the best aim. While coaches are not designated to any lane, they won’t be far way if assistance is needed. A kitchen will be opening shortly for when you work up an appetite, but until then, feel free to bring anything you’d like to nosh on. Less than twenty minutes away, in Fairport, Iron Smoke Distillery produces farm-distilled and aged straight bourbon and flavored (in apple pie and maple bacon) whiskey. There’s a fully licensed bar onsite, stocked with New York State liquor and wine, too. An event space, gift shop, and concert stage round out this venue. Livingston and Genesee Counties South of Monroe, thirsty adventure seekers can take a ride along the Livingston Libation Loop— Livingston County’s craft beverage trail. Wineries and cideries along the trail include Deer Run Winery, Eagle Crest Vineyards, and Original Stump Blower (OSB) Ciderworks. Breweries include No BS Brew Company, Mortalis Brewing Company, Rising Storm Brewing Company, Dublin Corners Farm Brewery, and Battle Street Brewery. Once you work up an appetite along the Loop, head over to Big Tree Inn in Geneseo for a meal, a drink, and a place to rest your head. Craft beer growlers are available as well as many varieties of cans and bottles highlighting New York State breweries. Wine from local favorites like Dr. Konstantin Frank, Lamoreaux Landing, and Heron Hills are available as well. Local, seasonal menu options are featured on the inn’s menu: items like poutine, crunchy Thai shrimp, ribeye, and a salmon burger. Onsite suites are available for booking and boast a historic kind of charm. The Village View Suite overlooks the Main Street fountain and original village clock, and some suites have a jacuzzi and fireplace. Farmers Creekside Inn in Le Roy, Genesee County, is another great option for dinner, drinks, and a room. The dinner menu includes meals like 585mag.com | May/June 2020

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venison pot pie, Chilean seabass, and ribeye. Pair that with an IPA from Stoneyard Brewing Company in Brockport or Young Lion Brewing in Canandaigua. There are a number of suites available at Farmers Creekside Inn in case you’re looking to get some shuteye after dinner and drinks. Many of the rooms have a view of Oatka Creek, and some feature luxurious amenities like in-floor heating in the bathroom and plush bathrobes. There’s also a gas fireplace in the lounge downstairs and a private deck on the top floor. Seneca County As unbelievable as it sounds, thirtyfive wineries call Seneca Lake home, and the lake’s wine trail hosts several events throughout the year to bring awareness to each of them. June 12–14 this year, the Seneca Lake Wine Trail will host Smokin’ Summer Kickoff, where guests can enjoy a self-guided tour around the lake to taste pairings of local wines and grilled summertime foods at participating wineries. Each attendee will receive three samples of wine, a souvenir wine glass, and a pairing of food. The trail stops include Seneca County wineries like Ventosa Vineyards, Bagley’s Poplar Ridge Vineyards, and Caywood Vineyards. Later in the month, on June 20, nearby Lamoreaux Landing Winery hosts Vineyard Roots, an event featuring live bluegrass and roots music with wine and local food. The dog-friendly winery also permits visitors to stop by, pick up some wine, bring some food, and picnic on the property. This winery produces a number of reds, whites, and sparkling and dessert wines, and all grapes are grown on the shores of the lake using sustainable winegrowing practices. On the western shore of Cayuga Lake, less than a twenty-minute drive from Lamoreaux, Sheldrake Point Vineyard sits on sixty acres. This winery, which is accessible by boat, has been listed among the “Top 100 Wineries” by Wine & Spirits three times. The winery hosts numerous events and classes, including a Finger Lakes rosé tasting, summer wine club pickup party, and a walk in the vineyard with manager Dave Wiemann. Steuben County This county cradles the southern half of Keuka Lake and is home to Hammondsport, a charming hamlet known as the “Heart of New York 46

May/June 2020 | 585mag.com

Wine Country,” with wine roots dating back to 1829, according to the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance. On the west side of Keuka Lake, Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery offers an opportunity to take in the views on the outdoor terrace, as well as a tasting room that’s open daily, yearround. For those with a deep interest in winemaking, the 1886 Reserve Tasting Room is open by reservation only and offers an in-depth cellar experience including educational tastings and food pairings. The underground 1886 Room was featured in Vineyard & Winery Management Magazine’s “Top 20 Most Admired Wine Tasting Rooms” as well as Zagat’s “8 Reasons to Drive to the Finger Lakes.” Visit in May or June for the Méthode Champenoise Experience, a behind-the-scenes look at Dr. Frank’s history of sparkling winemaking. The experience includes a welcome glass of wine and an opportunity to learn the bottling, aging, and disgorgement process while tasting the winery’s brut. The tour will be followed by a seated flight of sparkling wines paired with seasonal bites. Just five minutes south sits Heron Hill Winery, which also has tasting rooms on Seneca and Canandaigua Lakes. This winery was chosen as having one of the ten most spectacular tasting rooms in the world by Travel + Leisure magazine. Stop by the gift shop for a variety of local food products and handmade gift items. The Blue Heron Café at Heron Hill reopens for the season in May, with a menu featuring salads, sandwiches, soup, wraps, and more. It is also open for Sunday brunch. The winery will participate in Keuka in Bloom, May 30–31, when ticketholders can visit various wineries on the lake and receive one flower and one herb plant, each in a four-inch pot, while sampling four wines with herb-infused small bites at each stop. Guests will receive a complimentary Keuka Lake Wine Trail wine glass. Support your local craft beverage producer There is a seemingly endless supply of craft drink manufacturers in New York State. If you visited one every day, it would take you three and a half years to visit them all. Better get started. Jinelle Vaiana is a Rochester-based freelance writer.

Agness Wine Cellars 315-576-0375 agnesswinecellars.com Axes & Ales 349 East Ave. Rochester, NY 14604 270-8801 axesandales585.com Big Tree Inn 46 Main St. Geneseo, NY 243-5220 Bigtreeinn.com Dr. Konstantin Frank 9749 Middle Rd. Hammondsport, NY 14840 (800) 320-0735 drfrankwines.com Farmer’s Creekside Inn 1 Main St. Le Roy, NY 14482 768-6007 Farmerscreekside.com Heron Hill Winery 9301 Co. Rd. 76 Hammondsport, NY 14840 (607) 868-4241 heronhill.com Iron Smoke Distillery 111 Parce Ave., #5b Fairport, NY 14450 388-7584 ironsmokedistillery.com Lamoreaux Landing Winery 9224 NY-414 Lodi, NY 14860 (607) 582-6011 lamoreauxwine.com Livingston County Tourism 4635 Millennium Dr. Geneseo, NY 14454 243-2222 fingerlakeswest.com Sheldrake Point Vineyard 7448 County Rd. 153 Ovid, NY 14521 (607) 532-9401 sheldrakepoint.com

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GARDENING TIPS

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ardening is magical, especially with kids. It is also a great lesson in science and teaching children how we get our food. Children learn by watching, so plant a garden, sprinkle with water, add a dash of time and watch Mother Nature work her magic. Our suggestion... get creative with your garden by choosing a theme. For example, plant a salad garden with all your child's favorite ingredientsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;romaine, cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, carrots, sugar snap peas. Pick a special location in your garden and explain that you are growing your family's favorite salad ingredients, and then plant, water, harvest, and enjoy the salad and the memories made.

way to bring serenity and much needed relaxation into your life is one of the benefits of having a garden. Create a relaxing garden space by adding simple water features, ample comfortable seating, and keeping a subdued color palette for your plant material. Great for limited space gardens.

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What to do in the Garden in May and June COURTESY CORNELL COOPERATIVE EXTENSION OF MONROE COUNTY

Lawns • Mow your grass to three inches or higher for the healthiest lawn. Longer grass means longer roots below ground, and that gives you a healthy thick turf that will crowd out weeds. • Mow frequently, keep your mower blade sharp, and leave the clippings on the lawn for added nutrients. • If you have a widespread problem with weeds, use a broad-leaf weed killer as the label recommends. • If you only have a few weeds, just spot treat instead of treating your entire lawn. Flowers • Deadhead spring bulbs and plant summer-flowering bulbs in May. • Set peony supports in place before the growth makes it difficult. • Divide and transplant summer flowering perennials except peonies, irises, and oriental poppies. • Plant tender annuals in mid-May after threat of frost is past. • Feed roses every two to three weeks, and if you had black spot on your roses last season, treat frequently with a fungicide—following the label. • Pinch back and fertilize hardy mums. • Keep an eye on your containers— they can dry out quickly. Woody plants • Prune spring-flowering shrubs right after they finish blooming. • Prune trees such as maple, sycamore, birch, and crabapple from mid-June to mid-July to avoid bleeding and rampant growth of suckers. • Hedges can be rejuvenated and evergreens that were winter pruned can be cleaned up in June. • If you have ash trees (not mountain

ash), formulate a plan for how you will deal with Emerald Ash Borer. For more information go to nyis. info or call your local Extension office. Vegetables and Fruit • Keep an eye on May’s weather forecast, and if frost threatens cover any tender plants you may have put out early (a bedsheet works well). • Prune to remove dead or diseased branches of fruit trees. • Pick strawberries when they are fully red for maximum sweetness and flavor. You may need to cover your plants with bird netting to keep them for yourself! • Sow beans, beets, and carrots every two weeks until the end of June to keep your harvest season going. • Plant out tomato, pepper, and eggplant seedlings after danger of frost is past. • Mulch around your veggies to conserve moisture and keep weeds down. • Search for “Cornell vegetable tips” for information on and to get a list of recommended varieties for New York State. Houseplants • Most of them love to spend the summer outdoors! Find a protected place in light shade and out of the way of wind and put them out when nights are consistently in the 50’s. • Don’t forget that outdoor summering houseplants will need more water when the weather turns hot and dry. • Now that they are actively growing, fertilize them with a general-purpose houseplant fertilizer or add a slow-release one to each pot before you set it out. Follow the label directions. 585mag.com | May/June 2020

STYLE TIPS 54

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Taste

Fine fare | Table for Naz | Dining guide | Critical drinking

As Italian as Chicken French Proiettiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just gets it right By Leah Stacy

May/June 2020 | 585mag.com

Taste | Fine fare

Photos by Kate Melton

Proietti’s Italian Restaurant 980 Ridge Road Webster, NY 14580 872-2330 proiettis.com A quick online search for “history of Chicken French” yields a few interesting facts. First of all, it’s about as French as Julia Child. (That’s, uh, not at all.) And Rochester might be one of the only places in the world where it’s known so casually— the dish’s actual name is Chicken Française, and it has everything to do with the way the meat is prepared (dredged in flour, dipped in egg, and sautéed in lemon, butter, and white wine). Another meat prepared this way, say veal, would be known as Veal Française. In short, the name has everything to do with the cooking process and nothing to do with the actual country of origin. Chicken French is right behind the Garbage Plate in terms of foods Rochester is known for and just as debated in terms of desirability. But at the end of the day, the number of restaurants that still offer the dish speaks to its standing popularity. The recipe has been thought to have come from New York City to Rochester with Italian immigrants in the mid-twentieth century. Rochester, at the time, had the largest Italian American community in the entire state. That meant two things happened: Mafia activity (really) and the development of local Italian American cuisine. Remnants of those days can still be seen around the city, especially when it comes to longstanding mom-and-pop joints. Downtown and the west side of the city boast the highest count of oldschool Italian restaurants: think checkered tablecloths, homemade red sauce, low-brow wine lists, a wide circle of regulars, and, of course—Chicken French on every menu. These restaurants provide a throwback to a simpler time, before Yelp (most of their pages remain unclaimed, though ratings are high) and the Internet (many barely have a social media presence, if even a website). There isn’t a ton of old-school Italian places on the east side, but tucked away in Webster Plaza is Proietti’s Italian Restaurant. When I polled my social media followers on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter about where to find a really good Chicken French, Proietti’s was top of the list across the board. Many people have even been going there since they were young—Proietti’s has been open as a restaurant since 1980 but was a pizzeria and bar in the same location for ten years prior. The interior of Proietti’s is almost as unassuming as the exterior, though more

Artichokes French

muted than the neon sign outside, gothic lettering blaring red into the dark night. With its carpeted floors, wooden bistro chairs, and wood paneled walls, walking into Proietti’s feels like going to a family member’s house for Sunday sauce. Mirrors and murals adorn most of the wall space, making the dining room appear bigger than it is. Dim wall sconces, white linen tablecloths, liquid candles, and goblets for water give a bit of a “fancy night out” feel. But one look at the menu and you know: you’re not here to be demure about your order or your portions. This is about good, old-fashioned comfort food. Every order starts with a basket of soft bread or rolls, along with those little pats of butter in foil that you have to warm in your hand before you can spread them. I recommend multitasking: hold a pat of

butter in one palm while you pour another glass of Chianti (we ordered the Ruffino 2018). The usual lineup of condiments is on the table, ready for a host of pastas and proteins to adorn: oil, red pepper flakes, parmesan cheese (or “shake cheese,” as some like to call it). Each table also receives a small salad plate with the house signature Zucchini and Marinara (exactly what it sounds like, sauce over sliced, steamed chunks). The menu is hefty because there’s abundant selection, and some items are a la carte, which allows for family-style sharing (arguably the best way to experience any menu).All entrées come with a salad and side of pasta or veggie. For starters, we ordered the Clams Casino (reminiscent of delightful weekends long ago at my in-laws’), which were hot to the touch and filled with crispy, 585mag.com | May/June 2020

Taste | Fine fare

Clams Casino 58

May/June 2020 | 585mag.com

Taste | Fine fare

Eggplant parmesan

chewy, perfectly spiced stuffing topped with a shard of bacon. We also opted for Frenchstyle artichoke hearts, battered in the same style as Chicken French, a popular item that our server suggested. These were light but rich in flavor, with tangy white wine notes and a buttery, lemony pool on the plate to soak up the breading. For entrées, there was eggplant lasagna— three thick, breaded slices with gooey mozzarella and red sauce—and a side of steamed broccoli (eat your greens, kids); a split order of three cheese ravioli (red sauce) and three butternut squash ravioli (creamed marinara), doughy, large portions filled with meltaway middles. Lastly, Chicken French, which was served in two cutlets alone on a plate, in the same droolworthy butter bath as the artichoke hearts, with a side of spaghetti and red sauce. While serving styles vary, it was surprising to see the chicken unaccompanied by, say, a bed of fettuccine noodles in the same sauce (this writer’s favorite way to enjoy it). Nonetheless, the Chicken French was remarkably good on its own. Dinner finished with espresso and a housemade chocolate chip cannoli, the perfect

combination of crunchy and smooth. A shared hallmark of most local Italian restaurants is that the owner is almost always present during service. These aren’t laissez-faire franchises. If the owner’s not cooking, he’s likely shooting the breeze with patrons (those regulars mentioned earlier) or enjoying a meal with friends and family. Whitey Proietti, who’s been in the hospitality business since 1965, is no exception. On a Tuesday evening in February, he moved around the small restaurant rapidly, checking on tables and even bringing one couple, wine glasses in hand, back to tour the kitchen at their request. And for all the flash of new restaurant builds and fast casual trends, that’s the part most will never be able to replicate: the feeling of home and community that a longstanding restaurant builds over years of service and hospitality. That sense of coming to the table and breaking bread to dip in Sunday sauce. Some places just get it right. Leah Stacy is a food- and beverage-centric content creator based in Rochester.

Chocolate chip cannoli 585mag.com | May/June 2020

Taste | Table for Naz

Tee off with Thai Mii Up

Fairport restaurant’s Laotian dishes are full of unexpected flavors By Naz Banu

Yum Goong (spicy shrimp salad)

Drunken noodles

Thai Mii Up 4400 Fairport Nine Mile Point Rd. Fairport 1780 East Ridge Rd. Irondequoit 491-6331 Rochester’s twoThai Mii Up locations might be the only Laotian restaurants in town. Thai Mii Up’s Fairport outpost is located in an unusual spot for a Thai restaurant—Eagle Vale Golf Course. Nonetheless, it continues to serve the same great Thai food it is known for in Irondequoit—delectable Laotian dishes prepared from scratch using family recipes. On all visits, I start with the vegetable egg rolls. They are not uniquely Laotian, but they are some of the best I have had. Thai Mii Up’s are crisp and filled with fresh vegetables, mushrooms, and a bit of noodles. You can even share these with your vegan friends. A good place to start your journey into Laotian cuisine is the Laotian beef jerky. It is not quite like its American version but less chewy and more flavorful. Think umami bomb with a hint of garlic, pepper, and spice. Nam Khao is a dish that you initially try with trepidation and then a few weeks later start craving. Balls of rice are deep fried and then broken apart to form a crispy rice 60

May/June 2020 | 585mag.com

salad with bits of pork, tons of scallions, cilantro, and lime juice. On the side, there are crunchy leaves of lettuce, fresh stems of cilantro, and a salty-sweet dipping sauce. Start with a piece of lettuce. Scoop some of the rice salad in it, add a drizzle of the sauce, top with cilantro, wrap it to the best of your abilities. (I always overfill them, so I usually need a fork. Don’t be me.) Then take a bite. The fried bits of rice, salty pork, light onion bite from the scallion, citrus freshness from the lime, and hint of sweetness from the sauce enveloped in crisp lettuce—you will not view lettuce wraps the same way again. I get mine without the pork, and it is just as tasty (and vegan). Living in Rochester means there’s always a chance of cold and gloomy weather. Order the Ka Pak Sen. It could be simply described as the Laotian take on the American chicken soup, but it is so much more. A steaming bowl of aromatic chicken broth arrives at your table with freshly made udon noodles, shredded chicken, scallions, and fried garlic bits on top. It is light and comforting. If you like to walk on the spicy side of life, get a side of the housemade hot oil and add a little to the broth. Be warned that this will make quick work of your congestion. If you are ready for a soup that has no equivalent in American cuisine, try the ka poon. It is a fragrant and (medium) spicy curry broth with rice noodles, galangal, and lime leaves. It comes with a plate of

Ka Piak Sen

Vegetable spring rolls with sweet chilli dipping sauce

Nam Khao

Taste | Table for Naz

Tiger Cry (grilled brisket)

Photos by Naz Banu

garnishes—lime wedges to balance out the richness of the broth (I always add this), bean sprouts and shredded cabbage to add crunch, and occasionally a Thai chili (add at your own risk). Tiger Cry is one of my summer go-to dishes. It consists of thinly sliced brisket that has been marinated and grilled served with cucumber slices and lime wedges. It also comes with a housemade spicy tomato dipping sauce. Get a side of sticky rice too. The salty steak with a squeeze of lime dipped in the spicy sauce will have you returning for more. The sticky rice and cucumber help reset your palate for the next bite. Speaking of sauces, the concept of having dipping sauces (known as “jeow”) for grilled meats and vegetables is a very Laotian one. Thai Mii Up has various housemade jeow. Consult with your server on what he or she suggests (and let them know of any allergies because shellfish-based ingredients are an integral part of Laotian cuisine). Next time you are at Thai Mii Up and feel tempted by the drunken noodles (and who can blame you—theirs are perfectly spicy, chewy, and delicious), check out the Laotian specials. In addition to the dishes featured here, they also offer mok gai (steamed chicken stew in bamboo leaves), fried lemongrass chicken, Laotian sausage, etc. The staff is always happy to explain dishes and make recommendations. There is no question that Thai Mii Up has great Thai food. Its success at its original Irondequoit spot helped them open up this location at Eagle Vale and a brand new one in Del Lago resort. But in a world of people who always order the fried rice (they make an excellent pineapple fried rice) or chicken wings (they have a great version here called Linda’s wings—sweet and spicy), don’t you want to be the person who wants to order the Nam Khao? Naz Banu is a software engineer by day and a food appreciator by night (and day). She is often seen trying to convince people to try the spicy salsa for once. Follow her on Instagram at @tablefornaz. 585mag.com | May/June 2020

Taste

Dining Guide ASIAN

Hong Wah Restaurant

1802 Penfield Rd., Penfield, 385-2808, hongwahrestaurant.com

Quality Chinese fare at a very nice price. Menu is extensive and tailored to the American palate. Honored for being one of America’s healthiest in the Top 100 Chinese Restaurant Dining Guide. L&D: Daily     G $ Juicy Seafood 3020 Winton Rd. S., Rochester, 622-9468, facebook.com/JuicySeafoodRochester

Beloved for its “boils,” which come in a bag with two potatoes and a half ear of corn, this reasonably priced seafood establishment introduces Viet-Cajun cuisine to Rochester. Choose from an extensive menu consisting of boiled or fried options, then further customize your meal by making it a combo and deciding on your choice of seasoning and level of spice. L&D: Daily     $$

Furoshiki

682 Park Ave. Rochester, 771-0499, parkavenoodles.com

Named after a special cloth used by the Japenese to wrap lunches and gifts of food, Furoshiki hopes to bring a similarly beautiful yet casual feel to its ramen. This Pan-Asian noodle bar offers a wide variety of cocktails and dishes, with homemade ramen at the center of it all. L&D: Daily  I   $$

Khong Thai Cuisine

Many restaurants claim to have the most authentic Chinese cuisine or the best Asian fusion dishes, but few can back these claims up as well as Han Noodle Bar. A combination of star noodle dishes along with steamed pork buns and thai fusions keep this placed packed every weekend L&D: Daily I    $

Tsingtao House

2831 W. Henrietta Rd., 272-8008, tsingtaohouserochester.com

There’s the Chinese food white people grew up with, and then there’s the real kind. Tsingtao House is squarely the latter. This immigrant family–owned kitchen doesn’t compromise its menu to Western tastes, and we’re all the richer for it. Shredded jellyfish and ox tongue are among the more exotic fare, but don’t underestimate the addictive power of the simple braised fish and brown sauce. L&D: M–Sa      $$

Yellow Elephant Eatery

6687 Pittsford Palmyra Rd., Rochester 223-7333, yellowelephanteatery.com

Kam Tai, owner of Flavors of Asia at 831 S. Clinton Ave. has partnered with Vicky Chanthavisinh to open Yellow Elephant, an adventurous and innovative Asian fusion restaurant. House-made recipes include a rice plate, sesame beef, and noodle bowl, as well as a variety of soups like coconut curry and tom yum. L&D: M–Sa    $$

BARBECUE

Good Smoke BBQ

326 W. Commercial St., East Rochester and 3308 Chili Ave., Rochester; 2031576, goodsmokebbq.com

A modern take on traditional Southern cooking. There are the brisket, ribs, and chicken you expect, plus surprises like fried bologna sandwiches, Tennessee tacos, and smoked portobello mushrooms. Bacon, here, is called pig candy. L&D: Daily    $

260 Winton Rd. N., Rochester 434-2238, khongthaicuisine.com

Dinosaur Bar-B-Que

Sak Southi, co-owner of Sak’s Thai Cuisine in Fairport, has opened a fast-casual eatery. Noodle dishes include pad thai and udon noodle, and there is a variety of soups and entrées such as pad peow wan, pad phet, and choo chee pla. L&D: W–M     G $$

Considered by many to be the gold standard in Rochester barbecue, this joint is almost always packed, especially when there’s a good band booked. An excellent choice for an inexpensive, downtown crowd pleaser. Leave yourself a little extra time for parking. L&D: Daily    I G $

Osaka Sushi 3240 Chili Ave., Rochester; 3685 W. Henrietta Rd., Rochester, 571-4889, osakasushi.com Hibachi, teriyaki, and sushi, oh my! All-you-can-eat is the way to go. Dine in or take out (no, there isn’t an all-you-can-carry option) and check out the new Henrietta location. L&D: Daily  I    $ Thai by Night 123 S. Main St., Canandaigua 412-6261, thaibynightny.com

John Guattery returns to his native Canandaigua after cooking in kitchens all over the States to open an authentic Thai restaurant with traditional dishes like pad see ew and gai yang. Pair your meal with options of local wine and beer L: T–Th; D: T–Sa     $

Thai Mii Up

1780 E. Ridge Rd., Irondequoit, 491-6331; at Eagle Vale Golf Course, 4344 Fairport Nine Mile Point Rd, Fairport, and at Del Lago Resort, 1133 State Route 414, Waterloo; facebook.com/Thai.mii.up

This Thai/Laotian restaurant opened in 2016 and has a hot reputation for authentic cuisine, friendly service, and—as is evidenced by the saucy name—a lively sense of humor. “Mii” is Laotian for noodles, and the ones here are house made. L&D: Tu–Su    G $

99 Court St., 325-7090, dinosaurbarbeque.com

Route 96 BBQ 6385 Route 96, Victor, 742-2026, route96bbq.com

Ribs, pork, and brisket slow-cooked daily with pure hickory ... what could be better? Choose to make it a sandwich or get a “tray,” which comes with a choice of side, pickles, and pork rinds. Enjoy a rustic, barn-like atmosphere while you dine. L&D: Tu–Sa     $$ The Saltbox Smokehouse 6152 Barclay Rd., Sodus, (315) 553-2663, thesaltboxsmokehouse.com

A relaxed, rustic environment pairs with meats that are smoked in-house and offered for eat-in or carry out from the deli. Specializing in bacon and offering more than fifteen varieties, this new smokehouse between Oswego and Rochester offers unique menu options that feature its own tasty cured meats. Be sure to try the chocolate chunk cookie with bacon bits. D: F–Sa; Br & L: Tu–Sa    $

Sticky Lips BBQ

830 Jefferson Rd., Henrietta; 288-1910, stickylipsbbq.com

World War II–themed pit barbecue restaurant. Texas and Memphis-style barbecue leads the menu with a nod to Carolina-style, although without the purist’s minced pork and vinegar sauce. Southern sides are available, as well as a smokehouse twist on the Rochester garbage plate. Amid all this meat is a respectable vegetarian menu. L&D: Daily  I     $

Texas Blues BBQ

649 Monroe Ave., 319-4436, texasbluesbbqrochester.com

A quick stop for a smoked brisket or pulled pork sandwich or one of several Southern-inspired burgers. Ribs are served St. Louis style, grilled with the sauce. L&D: Daily     $

Three-Legged Pig BBQ

3415 Rochester Rd., Lakeville, 346-0001, 3leggedpig.com

Han Noodle Bar

687 Monroe Ave., Rochester 242-7333, hannoodlebar.com

May/June 2020 | 585mag.com

A small pit barbecue spot that gets the fundamentals right. St. Louis- and Carolina-style ribs and brisket are on the menu along with burgers, smoked chicken, and sausage. The food is value priced and takeout friendly. L&D: Tu–Su    I  $

The (585) Dining Guide is a rotating list of area restaurants independently selected by members of the editorial staff. All phone numbers are in the (585) area code unless otherwise noted. Is there a restaurant you think should be included in our Dining Guide, or do you have a correction? Please e-mail us at info@585publishing. com or fax to 413-0296. Listings in purple are new to the Dining Guide this issue. Price symbols indicate how much diners can expect to spend for an entrée without tax or tip.

$ .................under $13 $$ ................... $14–$23 $$$ .............. $24 and up  ................. Cash Only  ................ Wheelchair Accessible I .... Outdoor Seating Available Seasonally  ....... Serves Alcohol  ....... Family-Friendly  .........Makes special effort for vegetarians  ...Parking Available G ..............Gluten Free

Taste | Dining guide BISTRO

Bad Apples Bistro

42 Nichols St., Suite 4, Spencerport, 352-2231, badapplesbistro.com

Spencerport residents have another reason not to drive to the city for dinner—and more people from the city are making the drive for a unique casual gourmet experience. Epicureans will want to try the seared skate wing, the salmon succotash, or the beet and apple soup—but there are enough more familiar items to satisfy the less adventurous. Kids’ menu includes a four-ounce steak fillet. L&D: Tu–F; D: Sa     G  $$

Bar Bantam

1 S. Clinton Ave., 454-1052, barbantam.com

Providing exceptional quality with unique design for 20 years

Housed in the lobby of the Metropolitan building, this restaurant serves as a quick and accommodating dining option perfect for busy people, whether it be breakfast in the morning or happy hour at night. Selections include a wide variety of sandwiches and salads, as well as beer, wine, and cocktails. B&L: M– Th; D: Tu–Sa      G

Vertical Elegance 823 Fairport Rd Ste 1

Mon-Fri: 10:00 am - 4:30 pm Sat: 10:00 am - 2:00 pm

Bistro 11

585-641-2152 www.verticalelegance.com

11 W. Main St., Victor, 924-3660, bistro11.net

Italian-style, casual dining in downtown Victor. The Mulcahy Sandwich is a vestige of the property’s previous life as McGhan’s Nearly Famous Pub. Good selection of local beer and wine. L&D: Tu–Sa; Closed: Su, M     $

Visit our

Edibles

Gallery Showroom

704 University Ave., Rochester (NOTA), 271-4910, ediblesrochester.com

With a painted tin ceiling and exposed brick walls, Edibles presents a rustic yet urban style. Its menu, suffused with Italian and Eastern European dishes as well as deconstructed American choices, invites repeat visits. Extensive and well-labeled vegetarian and gluten-free options. L&D: M–Sa; Closed: Su     G $$

Ember Woodfire Grill

21 Livonia Station, Livonia, 346-0222, emberwoodfiregrill.com

Tapas-style casual dining in an architectural award– winning renovated railroad station close to Conesus Lake. Menu is high-concept with eclectic international flavors portioned to be shared around the table. Selections rotate seasonally. Lots of beers, wines, and creative cocktails to choose from. Kids’ menu with make-your-own-pizza nights Tuesdays and Wednesdays. D: M–Sa; Closed: Su  I     $$ EuroCafé

116 Main St., Geneseo, 447-9252, euro-cafe.us

Traditional Polish cooking with a modern sensibility in downtown Geneseo. Dumplings, sausage, and soups that won’t weigh you down. Two first-generation Polish owners have brought over recipes that could be found today in the chic bistros of Warsaw. The cakes are elaborate and made on premises. L&D: Tu–Sa   G  $

AWARDED OVERALL EXCELLENCE AS A TOP 100 CHINESE RESTAURANT IN THE U.S.A.!

Dine in / Take out.

585-385-2808 FAX 585-385-2833

Open 7 days

MON-THURS 11:00 AM – 9:30 PM FRI & SAT 11:00 AM – 10:30 PM SUNDAY 11:30 AM – 9:30 PM 1802 PENFIELD RD. Behind Dunkin Donuts

JoJo Bistro and Wine Bar—Pittsford

Dining guide photos by Kate Melton

60 N. Main St., Pittsford (Village of Pittsford), 385-3108, restaurantjojo.com

Though it’s in the quaint village of Pittsford, JoJo has all the pizzazz of a big city bistro, complete with an award-winning wine list and adventurous dinner menu. The chefs at JoJo experiment with wood-fired pizza; instead of pepperoni, you order soppressata. Appetizers like the tuna tartar and foie gras draw diners from all over the area. D: Daily     $$ JoJo’s Bistro and Wine Bar—Webster 42 E. Main St., Webster, 667-0707; restaurantjojo.com

585mag.com | May/June 2020

Taste | Dining guide JoJo’s Webster outpost provides upscale dining and quickly became a staple in the area. An extensive wine list pairs with wood-fired pizzas and an assortment of other classic American dishes to ensure everyone who enters leaves satisfied. D: Daily     I  $$

Label Seven

50 State St., Pittsford, 267-7500, labelseven.com

Hip, cozy west coast dining experience on the canal. Bright red walls and antique furniture accent white tablecloth dining. Menu choices are inspired by California casual cuisine and the Baja, its Mexican counterpart—except for the French Market Poutine, a concoction from across the other border, with beef brisket, chili, and cheddar curd. L&D: M–Sa; Br: Su     I  $$

Mendon 64 1369 Pittsford Mendon Rd., Mendon, 433-9464, mendon64.com

The restaurant formerly known as the Mendon House has found new life under the management team behind the Cottage Hotel and Penfield’s Pour House, but it’s a little more upscale. The dinner menu sports a wide array of seasonal choices, in the pub is a small but very unusual selection of simple, sturdy dishes, and there is live music most nights and a monthly rotating art exhibit. D: Tu–Sa  I    $$$

REDD Rochester

24 Winthrop St., Rochester, 483-7333, reddrochester.com

The highly anticipated REDD boasts a menu that packs a diverse punch with standout dishes such as the decadent Maine lobster risotto and multiple

wood-fired pizzas. Years of international culinary experience from co-owner Richard Reddington make every item served worth trying. L: M–F; D: M–Sa; Br: Su  I    $$

Roam Café 260 Park Ave., Rochester (East End), 360-4165, roamcafe.com

Cozy, upscale Park Avenue bistro with a fresh American classics menu that wanders into Italian territory. (Don’t miss the arancini.) A few of the entrées are marked paleo-friendly for followers of the “caveman diet.” L&D: Daily     G $$

Six50

7217 Rte. 96, Victor; 398-8277, six-50.com

Six50 serves up a menu filled with twists on Italian classics like pizza and pasta along with a healthy offering of appetizers, salads, and sandwiches. Most ingredients in the scratch kitchen are sourced locally. Menu highlights include the Butchers Pie, a rotating pizza-of-the-day, and mussels cevennes, which is served in chardonnay sauce with crusty peasant bread. L&D: Daily  I     G $$ New York Kitchen Restaurant

800 S. Main St., Canandaigua, 394-7070, nywcc.com/UpstairsBistro

The restaurant above the New York Kitchen showcases the state’s meat and produce with helpful New York wine and beer pairing suggestions. If you like what you sipped, you can buy a bottle from the tasting room downstairs. “Manhattan-style” brunches on the weekends. Beautiful views of Canandaigua Lake from the patio. L&D: M–Sa; Br: Su  I     $$

The Owl House

75 Marshall St., Rochester (Lower Monroe), 360-2920, owlhouserochester.com

The chefs begin with farm-to-table, local ingredients and produce creative dishes. A rotating grilled cheese special is reason enough to visit several times in one week, and desserts are refreshed daily as well (and generally vegan). Menu specials are posted on Facebook each morning, including original craft cocktails and drafts. L&D: Tu–Su I    G $$

Panzari’s Italian Bistro

321 Exchange Blvd., Rochester (Corn Hill), 546-7990, panzarisitalianbistro.com

This cozy bistro in the heart of Corn Hill Landing boasts an Italian menu that shines in every way it should, from pasta to antipasti. An open-air dining room allows patrons to observe the corner brick oven where pizzas are blistered to perfection. L: M–F; D: Daily  I     $$

The Peppered Pig

1759 Empire Blvd, Webster, 347-6479, thepigroc.com

French fare meets an accessible and elegant atmosphere in the latest addition to the local European restaurant scene. The menu boasts pork and duck from apps to entrées, as well as a specialized brunch menu. And of course, what French eatery would be complete without a well-considered wine list? L: Daily; D: M–Sa; Br: Sa & Su  I   $$

Relish

651 South Ave., Rochester (South Wedge), 4542767, relishdelivers.com

Morphing from its former incarnation as a meal delivery service, Relish now serves imaginative, impressive dinners in its tiny, intimate dining room. You can still get Stephen Rees’s locally sourced, prepared and/or frozen meals, though—just order online and walk in for pickup (he also delivers). It’s BYOB, but if you forget your bottle, don’t worry—there’s a liquor store next door. L: Tu–Sa D: Th–Sa     G $

The Red Fern

283 Oxford St., Rochester (Park Avenue), 563-7633, redfernrochester.com

This charming restaurant serves an entirely vegan menu with many gluten-free options, including a healthy take on Rochester’s trademark “plate” and mac ‘n’ cheese nachos made from cashews. The baked goods, which are available wholesale, can be found at eateries around the city (the creative donut flavors are especially popular). Catering is available. L&D: Tu–Su I    G $

Roux

688 Park Ave., Rochester, 461-2960, rouxparkave.com

This French kitchen and nouveau cocktail bar artfully prepares classic French fare using local farm ingredients paired with an all-French wine list. Roux also boasts an absinthe fountain, Parisian decor, and a savvy bar staff. One of the best spots in the Park Ave cultural district to sit outside (or in a window booth, if it’s cold) and watch the world go by. B: Sa–Su; L: M, W–F; D: Daily  I   $$

TRATA

145 Culver Rd., Rochester, 270-5460, tratarochester.com

The casual corporate cousin of Black and Blue, Village Bakery, and JoJo’s Wine Bar, TRATA is one of the main draws to the Culver Road Armory. The decor is slick and industrial with lots of exposed brick. The menu is catnip for foodies. Ever feel like a duck quesadilla or a beer cocktail made with bacon? This is where you belong. L&D: M–F; D: Daily; Br: Su  I    G  $$

French toast from the Frog Pond 64

May/June 2020 | 585mag.com

Taste | Dining guide The Vesper Kitchen and Bar

1 Capron St., Rochester (Downtown), 454-1996, rocthevesper.com

The Vesper’s name is in homage to a drink created by James Bond, who, of course, had named that for a stunning woman. The place feels upscale and trendy, with a bar made of pallets and a limited but playful menu. For example, from the raw bar, order the Trust Fund: a Vesper Martini, two oysters, two shrimp, ceviche, half an ounce of caviar, and stuffed olives. L: Th–F; D: M–Sa     G  $$

Zambistro

408 Main St., Medina, 798-2433, zambistro.com

from passion panna cotta white chocolate to cinnamon and habañero milk chocolate. D: Daily   I    $

Sweet Mist

3259 Winton Rd. S., Rochester, 413-3512, sweet-mist.com

Liquid nitrogen ice cream is the latest fun dessert craze to take the nation, and one has finally landed in Rochester. The menu features ample flavor options ranging from traditional (salted caramel, french vanilla, pistachio) to completely inventive (saffron, chocolate covered pretzels, Mountain Dew).     $

GERMAN Rheinblick German Restaurant 224 S. Main St., Canandaigua (Downtown Canandaigua), 905-0950, restaurant-rheinblick.com

Menu goes beyond usual brats and kraut into fare that could be found anywhere along the banks of the River Rhine. If you’re hungry, dig into the schweinshaxe, a towering roasted pork shank. You can also choose among ten different kinds of schnitzel. On the appetizer menu, travelers will spot currywurst, the predominant street food of Berlin. The beer and wine list comes straight from the old country. L&D: W–M   I  $$

Comfort food favorites are rebuilt here for the demanding connoisseur’s palate. The sirloin’s dusted with espresso for both sizzle and buzz. The tuna comes in a tuxedo of prosciutto and potatoes. How could you possibly improve meatloaf? Wrap it in bacon. L&D: M–Sa  I     $$

CAJUN

The French Quarter Café

130 Spring St., Rochester, 987-6432; thefqc.com

A beautifully converted house plays host to Creole meals that wouldn’t be out of place on the dinner table of a Louisiana grandma. The crawfish and jambalaya set the stage, as does a Natchitoches meat pie—but you might want to try the Sicilian chicken, a favorite of Italian immigrants to New Orleans. L&D: W–Sa     $

The Spirit Room

Are you living with chronic pain or depression?

139 State St., Rochester, 397-7595 thespiritroomroc.com

A mixture of Rochester history, spirituality, and Southern-style cooking make this craft cocktail bar and literary lounge a hub for local history and art. The bar is styled after the Spiritualism movement that swept Rochester in the late 1800s, something that shines through in the Spirit Room’s macabre yet energetic atmosphere. Regular tarot card readings are offered, as well as music and poetry readings. D: Tu–Su  I   $$

DESSERT

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Cheesy Eddie’s

602 South Ave., Rochester (South Wedge), 4731300, cheesyeddies.com

The family-run business has been producing some of Rochester’s finest cheesecake creations for weddings, dinner parties, and holiday gatherings. Cheesy Eddie’s fare can be found in dessert cases across the city, but the South Wedge location has tables inside for patrons who want to enjoy a pastry with their morning coffee. Closed: Su   $ Caramel Bakery and Bar 647 Park Ave., Rochester, 978-7898, caramelbakeryandbar.com

A dine-in bakery with a romantic and relaxed environment. Sit at the bar or in the cozy dining room and enjoy the mixture of creativity and taste that is offered. Suggested local beer and wine allow guests to complement their dessert or savory sharable. Featured as one of Nick’s Picks, each decadent dessert is served to please both the eye and the palate. D: W–Sa; Br: Su; Closed: M–Tu     G $$

Ketamine infusions for Chronic pain and Chronic depression Call Dr. Vilensky for a consultation: (585) 267-7700

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Chocolate and Vines

757 University Ave., Rochester (NOTA), 340-6362, chocolateandvines.com

The servers at Rochester’s first regional dessert and wine bar are trained to suggest a pairing with any of the desserts (from fresh ricotta cream cannolis to hazelnut layer cake). It’s a beautiful complement to their large international wine selection. They also concoct their own chocolates, with flavors ranging

141 Sullys Trail, Suite 3 Pittsford, NY 14534 UpstatePainClinic.com 585mag.com | May/June 2020

Taste | Critical drinking

Bitter city

How is Rochester like a digestive? By Pete Wayner

May/June 2020 | 585mag.com

It’s even used by people undergoing cancer treatment to help relieve negative symptoms. Now, whether these myriad benefits are eclipsed by the high sugar content of most amari is for more sober minds to consider, but we can at the very least agree that a glass of something complex and challenging with a moderate ABV isn’t a bad way to end a meal. You don’t have to fly across the Atlantic for such a glass, either. Your neighborhood cocktail bar will probably have a number of amari, such as Averna, Campari, Aperol, Cynar, Fernet Branca, Becherovka, and yes, even Jagermeister, depending on your definition. While bartenders in Rochester have been incorporating these in recipes for years, most would be delighted to serve them neat or on ice as well—a great option if you really want to taste the complexities of dozens of herbs at once. In fact, an amaro is the official spirit of the 2020 Rochester Cocktail Revival. Campar i Group approached Chuck Cerankosky, director of the revival and co-owner of Restaurant Good Luck, Cure, Jackrabbit Club, and Lucky’s with the idea of spotlighting the liqueur. “It was kind of refreshing because Cynar is a modifier or aperitif or amaro and it’s not a whiskey,” said Cerankosky, adding that while he loves whiskey it was exciting to change it up this year after a string of whiskey brands showcased in past years. Cynar is a dark amaro with strong bitter and deep caramel notes. Founded in 1952, it exploded in Italy after being featured on the 1960s advertising show Carosello. An actor sat in the middle of dizzying traffic at a café table and chairs, sipping from a dainty glass, newspaper draped across his lap as Fiats sped by him. The announcer declares in Italian, “Cynar, against the strain of modern life.” The bottle on the table showed the logo, very similar to today’s, emblazoned with the amaro’s most distinctive characteristic, the artichoke. Though you can’t really taste it when sipping, Cynar is the most famous of an entire family of amari based on artichokes, carciofo. “It’s the Italian ability to make booze out of weeds,” said Cerankosky. “It’s your purple polka dotted bow tie and you get to base your whole outfit off of that.” The bow tie wasn’t always front and center, though. Cerankosky remembers when

WHAT YOU’RE DRINKING To a Nonbeliever 1.5 oz. Mezcal (El Buho, Illegal or Silencio) 1.0 oz. Cynar 0.5 oz. Lemon juice 3 dashes Fee Brothers Lime Bitters • Shake with ice • Strain into a coupe glass and garnish with one artichoke petal he opened Restaurant Good Luck in 2008 and ordered a bottle for the bar, as much for decoration as actual utility. “We probably ordered like three bottles in a year,” he says. “Fast forward to 2020 and it’s the official spirit of the Rochester Cocktail Revival.” The annual festival, now in its seventh year (scheduled for early June but now postponed until September) returns with more than seventy events— including bar parties, pairing dinners, a gala at the Strong, a garden party at the Landmark Society’s Stone Tolan House, and educational seminars— across twenty-four partner bars and select venues downtown. (For more: rochestercocktailrevival.com.) Cynar also plays a key role in To a Nonbeliever, a cocktail in his newest restaurant, Lucky’s. Cerankosky sees this as more than just a general rise in popularity of amari but a change in the character of Rochester itself. “Before even Fernet (Branca) arrived in Rochester I remember hearing how like San Francisco revived this brand … It was like this envy— that’s what the cool kids are wearing,” he says. “We’re the cool kids now. Now we’re wearing something cool.” Pete Wayner is a food- and beverage-centric content creator based in Rochester.

Photo by Michael Hanlon

As we limp out of another winter, it should come as no surprise that the family of liqueurs that best defines our city is both intensely bitter and also intoxicatingly sweet. Much like Rochester itself, the uninitiated have a taste, don’t get it, and flock to simpler expressions. But those who really give it a chance can’t get enough. Rochester is an amaro, and we drink it in. For those who also ignore their Duolingo owl, “amaro” is Italian for “bitter.” Italy popped the proverbial cork on amari, but today they’re made across Europe and (go figure) as close to home as Brooklyn. An amaro is a liqueur, typically but not always a digestif, made by steeping bitter herbs in a neutral spirit or wine, adding sugar, and aging. Usually between 16 and 40 percent alcohol, they’re often added to a spirit and other ingredients in a cocktail, though people around the world enjoy them neat or on ice. Amari recipes are notoriously hush-hush. The recipe of twenty-seven herbs in Fernet Branca, for example, is said to be known only to the president of the company, Niccolò Branca, who personally measures them out for every new batch. Some amari contain more than sixty ingredients, including cardoon, cinchona, lemon balm, lemon verbena, juniper, ginger, mint, saffron, wormwood, elderflowers, and gentian. These recipes can date back centuries. In fact, quite a few amari got their start in medieval monasteries and pharmacies. Bitter flavor used to be considered a wellspring of health benefits, which is how bitters companies like Angostura and our own beloved Fee Brothers got their start. Go to most restaurants in Italy and you’ll finish your meal with a robust list of digestivos, including many amari, to aid the settling of an overfull stomach. Experts debate whether these alleged health effects are as inflated as the waistlines depending on them, but it can’t be denied that there is something better about bitter. Foods (and drinks) with a bitter element jump-start the liver’s production of bile, which aids digestion by emulsifying fats and processing fat-soluble nutrients. According to Amy Stewart’s The Drunken Botanist, gentian, an ingredient in many amari, has been used medicinally since at least 1200 BC. It was used by ancient Egyptian physicians and has been found in modern experiments to stimulate digestion.

Taste | Critical drinking

585mag.com | May/Junel 2020

Taste | Dining guide FINE DINING

80W 7 Lawrence St., Rochester, 730-14607, 80wrochester.com

Created as an homage to its owners’ private spaces, this sophisticated lounge promotes conversation in an environment that mimics an inviting living room. Relax on a distressed leather sofa or overstuffed chair and delve into the assortment of cocktails, craft beers, and world-class wines. Complement with tasty small-plate fare and enjoy the atmosphere of the dimly lit high-end environment. It’s a good spot to spend an evening or unwind before a night out to the theater or philharmonic. D: W–M; Br: Su  I    G $$

Atlas Eats Kitchen & Bake Shop

2185 N. Clinton Ave., Rochester (Irondequoit), 544-1300, atlas-eats.com

To place Atlas Eats in the fine dining section is almost to do it a disservice, because it’s not expensive, especially not for breakfast and lunch. But it is truly fine dining. Dinners are prix fixe, there are only four seatings per weekend, and the globally inspired, sophisticated menu changes every two weeks. B&L: Th–Sa; D: F–Sa; Br: Su  I     $$

Avvino

2451 Monroe Ave., Rochester (Brighton), avvinorochester.com

Chef Tim Caschette taps local farmers to craft a seasonal menu showcasing the region’s agricultural bounty. The menu is high-end New American with lots of international choices but still approachable. The curious will appreciate curveballs like chicken-fried pork cheeks or pastrami pho. Attention to detail is this restaurant’s hallmark. Wine glasses are “primed”: a sample is swirled in the glass and discarded until there’s nothing to taste but the wine. D: Tu– Sa  I     G $$

Bacco’s Ristorante

263 Park Ave., Rochester (East End), baccosristorante.com

White bean soup at Max at Eastman Place Swan Market

231 Parsels Ave., Rochester, 288-5320, swanmarket.com

Eating here is like stepping into a wayback machine; the eighty-year-old property looks like it hasn’t changed a bit. Lunch offerings are basic: schnitzel, roast pork, or sausage with traditional German sides. Communal seating is available among shelves of German grocery imports. Be sure to pick up something for home on the way out. L: W–Sa   $

Unter Biergarten

120 East Ave., Rochester 360-4010, unterbiergarten.com

A German-style beer hall located in the space that previously housed Victoire. Includes twenty-four draft lines of classic German beer, as well as some familiar favorites. German traditional food is served regularly, including fried bologna, sausage, and pretzels. Food served until 10 p.m. L&D: Daily I   $

GREEK/MEDITERRANEAN Aladdin’s Natural Eatery

646 Monroe Ave., Rochester, 264-9000, and 8 Schoen Pl., Pittsford, 264-9000, myaladdins.com

The benefits of a Mediterranean diet are well known, and Aladdin’s markets its menu as healthy, all-natural, and inexpensive—and made with fresh, locally sourced ingredients wherever possible. Most items on the menu are under $10. L&D: Daily    $

Cedar Mediterranean Restaurant

746 Monroe Ave., Rochester, 442-7751, facebook. com/Cedar-Mediterranean-Restaurant

May/June 2020 | 585mag.com

Looking for good value without sacrificing flavor or your health? Try this family-run joint where the pita bread—a fan favorite—is made to order. There are plenty of vegan and vegetarian options, and you can eat in or take it to go. L&D: M–Sa     G $

Reservations are recommended for this cozy, homelike Italian bistro on Park Avenue. Appetizers like melenzana napolean and beef carpaccio set the stage for red meat entrées or pasta dishes you’ll want to eat with lots of fresh bread to sop up the homemade sauces. D: Tu–Sa    G $$

Levantine’s

Big Tree Inn 46 Main St., Geneseo, 243-5220 bigtreein.com

This Mediterranean spot offers Levant food in decent portions with standout items like falafel, kibbeh, and the chicken kabob wrap. Get it in-house or have it catered for a unique option at the next potluck. L&D: Tu–Su     $

Originally built in 1833, this historic landmark combines hospitality and wholesome cuisine. Enjoy a meal on the front porch or dine in the warm setting of the tavern or restaurant. The inn offers products from many local breweries and wineries, making each guest’s experience unique and memorable. L&D: M– Sa; Br: Su  I     G $$

750 Elmgrove Rd., Rochester, 434-0441, levantinescafe.com

Olive’s Greek Taverna and Restaurant

Bristol Harbour’s Tavern at the Point Restaurant 5410 Seneca Point Rd., Canandaigua, 396-2200, bristolharbour.com

Straight-forward family-owned Greek restaurant where the moussaka is made fresh daily and the dolmades come to your table steaming. A few nods to the trendy include Cuban and Buffalo chicken gyros. Baklava and Yaya’s Chocolate Snowball await for dessert. L&D: M–Sa  I     $

Fabulous views of Canandaigua Lake, creative, freshly prepared cuisine, and an extensive beverage menu featuring many Finger Lakes wines and beers are all yours at this dining destination. Finish your meal with a famous house-made dessert. B: Sa–Su; L&D: F–Su   I  G $$

Voula’s Greek Sweets

The Cub Room

Leave busy Monroe Avenue and walk into what feels like someone’s country kitchen. Fresh baklava, kataifi, and other sticky, honey-drizzled Greek desserts line the display case, but first you need to have lunch. Spanakopita and other stuffed phyllo offerings share the menu with items like lagana bread and five Mediterranean spreads. Fresh soups and salads also available. L: Daily; D: Th     $

Located in the highly anticipated Edge of the Wedge building, the Cub Room is a restaurant opened by a husband and wife team. The menu appeals to adventurous palates, with dishes like beet and gorgonzola ravioli, grilled octopus, and house-smoked pork cheeks. The dining room is an airy, loft-style space with a touch of pre-Prohibition design. L&D: M–F; D: Sa–Su; Br: Su     $$$

50 State St., Pittsford, 381-3990, olivespittsford.com

439 Monroe Ave., Rochester, 242-0935, facebook.com/voulasgreeksweets

739 S. Clinton Ave., Rochester (South Wedge), 363-5694, thecubroomroc.com

Taste | Dining guide Cure

50 Public Market, Rochester, 563-7941, curebar.net

French-inspired cuisine near the Rochester Public Market featuring charcuterie and eclectic appetizers washed down with a respectable list of wines, beers, and craft cocktails. The house-made tonic is a must, and Thursdays are reserved for Menu du Voyageur, a prix fixe menu that investigates the cuisine of a particular region of France. Cure becomes Java’s at the Market on Saturday mornings. D: W–Su; Br: Su  I    $$

Good Luck

50 Anderson Ave., Rochester (NOTA), 340-6161, restaurantgoodluck.com

Hewn-wood tables, mismatched chairs, and bare lighting fixtures give this warehouse restaurant a rustic vibe. Farm-to-table menu features seasonal family-style dishes. The Inspired Table dining series gives guests a chance to see dinner courses prepared and learn about the food. Lively happy hour and bar scene enhanced by a creative craft cocktail selection. D: W–Sa     $$$

The Erie Grill

Max of Eastman Place

Phillips European

25 Gibbs St., Rochester (Downtown),

26 Corporate Woods, Rochester (Henrietta),

697-0491, maxrochester.net

272-9910, phillipseuropean.com

The jewel in the crown of Max-branded Rochester restaurants, located near the Eastman School of Music. Start with handcut beef tartare or truffled crab melt and then move on to roasted lamb or a perfectly grilled, aged New York strip steak. Think Max’s before a night at the symphony or an upscale retreat from the bustle of the jazz festival. L: M–F;

Touted as European-style café dining, Phillips has a rich lunch and dinner selection ranging from pastas to daily homemade quiches and soups. The restaurant’s quiet atmosphere and lavish dessert fare make Phillips one of Henrietta’s best-kept secrets. Don’t forget the after-dinner drinks; Phillips stocks everything from cordials to coffee liqueurs. L&D: M–Sa

D: M–Sa     $$$

    $$

s u n Joi

41 N. Main St., Pittsford, 419-3032, eriegrill.com

Dishes like rabbit sausage and duck meatballs are meant to draw foodies to this upscale, “reinvented” restaurant in a Marriott hotel. Gourmet offerings extend into the breakfast and lunch menus. Cocktails are refreshing and inventive. B, L&D: Daily  I     $$$

HOT OFF THE PRESS

Farmer’s Creekside Tavern & Inn 1 Main St., Le Roy, 768-6007, farmerscreekside.com

The definition of destination dining, Creekside opened in 2017 after many years of remodeling—the stone building had been all but destroyed in a fire more than a decade ago. You can go high-end here or opt for pub fare, and it’s all tasty. Impressive views. Rooms available. L&D: M–Sa; Br&D: Su      $$$

Joey B’s

1325 Elmwood Ave., Rochester (Brighton), 377-9030, joeybsrestaurant.com

Regulars protested when their beloved date night go-to spot left Fairport for new digs closer to town, but the new Joey B’s is bigger, more accessible, and just as tasty. The old-school menu is loaded with favorites like shrimp scampi, grilled filet, and rack of lamb, but there’s more than a touch of French flair—try the duck breast a l’orange or escargot. The chicken French (while not so very French) is as good as any and better than most. L: Tu–F; D: Tu–Su; Br: Su      $$ The Kitchen

5 S. Main St., Pittsford, 310-2467, thekitchenpittsford.com

Enjoy a multi-course meal in an intimate dining space, where chefs go from empty plate to final garnish right in view of guests’ tables. By reservation only, on the hour from 5 to 9 p.m. D: W–Sa     $$$

Lento

274 N. Goodman St., Rochester (Village Gate), 271-3470, lentorestaurant.com

Lento has a three-tiered goal for its menu items: local, seasonal, and sustainable. Owner/chef Arthur Rogers, a 2015 James Beard Award nominee, works with more than twenty local farmers to supply the kitchen with fresh ingredients year-round, which means the menu constantly changes. The craft cocktails are also made from juices, homemade mixers, and seasonal fruit from local farms. On Thursdays, cocktails are just $5. D: Tu–Sa  I   $$$

TUESDAY

May 19, 2020

5:30 - 7:30

3400 MONROE AVENUE ROCHESTER, NY 14618

ENJOY complimentary hors d’oeuvres and drink specials MINGLE with 585 staff, writers, and the fascinating people featured in the new issue. PICK UP a free issue of the new 585.

No reservations necessary. For questions, call (585) 413-0040

585mag.com | May/June 2020

Taste | Dining guide The Yard of Ale

3226 Genesee St., Piffard (near Geneseo), 243-3380, theyardofale.com

Family-owned fine dining in an early-nineteenthcentury Genesee Valley Canal inn. The menu is standard Italian-influenced Rochester fare, but the execution is top-notch and evening specials aim to impress. Adjacent tavern keeps wings and beer rolling late into the night. D: Tu–Su  I    G  $$

INDIAN Naan-Tastic

100 Marketplace Dr., Rochester 434-1400, naan-tastic.com

A family-owned fast and casual, counter-style Indian restaurant, offering customizable menu options for endless possibilities. They offer bowls and rolls with a large variety of meats, sauces, toppings, and sides with plenty of gluten-free and vegan options to choose from. Catering is also offered. L&D: Daily      G $

Thali of India 3259 Winton Rd. S., Henrietta 427-8030, thaliofindiarochester.com

The best of the suburban lunch buffets. The dinner menu is as extensive as any Greek diner but focused on the regional specialities of India, Pakistan, and the global diaspora. Sixteen baltis—a dish popular in Great Britain—are served, as tradition demands, in a copper pail. Vegetarians will be happy with the dozens of choices. L&D: Daily      $$

ITALIAN Amore

1750 East Ave., Rochester (Brighton), 452-8780, wegmansamore.com

Tandori chicken at India House Portico by Fabio Viviani

1133 State Rte. 414, Waterloo, 315-946-1777, dellgoresort.com/dining/porticobyfabioviviani

Nestled within the del Lago Resort and Casino just north of Thruway exit 41, Portico mixes traditional Italian cooking with steakhouse-style seafood and meats. L: Su, Th–Sa; D: Daily    G  $$$

The Rabbit Room Restaurant

Tapas 177

177 St. Paul St., Rochester (Downtown), 262-2090, tapas177.com

Wegmans Supermarket’s East Avenue entry into the Italian dining sector offers respectable pizza, pasta, antipasti, sandwiches, salads, and charcuterie. As with all Wegmans restaurants, you may get inspired to visit the market next door to assemble ingredients to recreate your meal. L&D: M–Sa  I    G  $

Benji’s Pizza and Grill

A swank downtown hangout with creative cocktails and a menu that melds together international cuisines. Curry empanadas, Maui chicken and egg rolls, or a watermelon shrimp are designed to surprise and delight. “Tapas” dining is a small-plate tradition from Spain, so it’s best to come with a small group of friends and share several selections around the table. D: Daily I   $$

1998 Empire Blvd., Rochester 446-0600, benjispizza.com

Tony D’s

288 Exchange Blvd., Rochester (Corn Hill Landing), 340-6200, tonydsroc.com

3349 Monroe Ave., Rochester (Pittsford), 264-1300; Greece Ridge Center, Rochester, 227-3031, benuccis.com

Since it opened in 2013, the Revelry has generated consistent buzz with artisanal cocktails and Lowcountry cuisine. The Revelry team channels Southern hospitality and redefines comfort food with dishes like fried green tomatoes, pimento cheese and biscuits, and “Chicken & Fixins” dinners on Wednesdays. D: T–Su; Br: Su; Closed: M  I     $$$

It’s back! Tony D’s will take your wood fire oven and raise you a coal fire oven. A cooking temperature near a thousand degrees means crispier surfaces and more tender centers, and this goes for the wings, the ribs, and the pizzas. The pizza crust is thin and topped with combinations of Italian traditional vegetables and cured meats. You can also design your own. L&D: M–F; D: Sa–Su  I     $$

A taste of old Sicily at Pittsford Plaza and now at the Mall at Greece Ridge. Nosh on bruschetta or traditional antipasti or choose from dozens of woodfired pizzas, pastas, paninis, or entrées that include Benucci’s own piece of Rochester’s gourmet meatball trend. L&D: Daily  I     $$

Bocaccinis Italian Bistro & Bar

Rooney’s Restaurant

Native

6720 Pittsford Palmyra Rd., Fairport, 421-8200, bocaccinis.com

The historical building and European influence surrounding Rooney’s Restaurant repeatedly places it at the top of romantic dinner destinations in the area. Inside, the rich paneling, fireplace, and scarlet linens lend a Victorian charm. The staff is highly trained and professional, treating every guest like

This local restaurant strives to “support our friends’ and neighbors’ small businesses” by locally sourcing their produce. Native’s upscale, wide-open space offers New-Age American cuisine and can’t-miss handcrafted cocktails for “social hour.” Hours are evolving; call or check website.  I    $$

61 N. Main St., Honeoye Falls, 582-1830, thelowermill.com

Excellent soups and sandwiches using local ingredients in the first floor of a nineteenth-century mill. Thursday night dinner features a $42 prix fixe tasting experience. Upstairs is a local artisan shop, gallery space, and studios for local artists. L: Th–Sa; L&D: Th  I     $$

The Revelry

1290 University Ave., Rochester (NOTA), 340-6454, therevelryroc.com

90 Henrietta St., Rochester (Swillburg), 442-0444, rooneysrestaurant.com

royalty. The house chefs assemble a new dinner menu each night, building specialty dishes from lamb, beef, duck, and seafood found at local markets each morning. D: M–Sa    $$$

May/June 2020 | 585mag.com

180 S. Clinton Ave., Rochester, 351-6121, nativerochester.com

Pizza, burgers, wings, subs, and more, all within a classic, family-friendly environment. Do a pick up, dine in, or have it delivered. All food is proudly made with locally purchased ingredients. L&D: Daily    $

Benucci’s

This family-owned and -operated Italian bistro features traditional and contemporary Italian dishes; brick oven pizzas, paninis, and wraps, and fresh salads. All items are made in-house and to order, using fresh, local ingredients. In addition to in-house dining and take-outs, they also offer catering and semiprivate dining for events. D: Daily. L: M–Sa  I     G $$

Taste | Dining guide Branca

683 Pittsford-Victor Rd., Bushnell’s Basin, 310-7415, brancabasin.com

Branca’s hospitality is top-notch. It’s a place where people feel comfortable eating solo at the bar—and rarely leave before making a friend. The housecured charcuterie is exceptional, the burrata divine, and your four-year-old will actually eat the quattro formaggio pizza (though adults may prefer the tartufata). Perfect for date night, family dinner, lunch with a friend, or grabbing a drink after work. D: Daily; L: M–F; Br: Su   I    $$

Branca Midtown

280 E. Broad St., Rochester, 434-5243, brancamidtown.com

Branca began as a cozy Bushnell’s Basin bistro with a convivial bar, an authentic charcuterie hanging behind glass, and a colorful tile wood oven shipped from Italy. Restauranteurs Josh and Jenna Miles have taken this formula downtown to capture the industrialist lunch crowd. This is the place to take out-of-town clients for lunch while bragging about Rochester’s amazing Italian scene. Cocktails have funny names and genius flavor combinations. Branca is a beachhead in our city’s downtown comeback. D: T–Sa; L: M–F     G $$$

Carl’s Pizza Kitchen 9 South Ave., Webster, 236-1819, carlspizzakitchen.com

Tucked into a small and cozy location perfect for a quick and easy dining option, where all food is homemade and fresh. Menu ranges from a wide variety of pizzas, wings, salads, subs, and sandwiches. There is also a dinner menu including entrées such as Veal and Eggplant Parmesan and Chicken French. L&D: T–Su    $

Fiamma Centro

4 Elton St., Rochester (NOTA), 471-8917, centro.fiammarochester.com

For years, chef Giuseppe Pachiullo ran Fiamma in a nondescript Gates plaza serving pizzas and pasta taken directly from his native Naples. Now, he raises the Old Country charm by bringing his certifiedauthentic approach to the Neighborhood of the Arts. The dry ingredients come directly from southern Italy. The fresh stuff is sourced locally. The oven is fired to 1,000 degrees, making pizza crust bubble up and char in under a minute. Fold the pizza up and eat it like a taco if you don’t want to look like a tourist. D: T–Su   I    $$$

Fiorella

5 Rochester Public Market, 434-5705, restaurantfiorella.com

In the clean lines of a contemporary space at the Rochester Public Market, Chef Gino Ruggiero offers a menu of authentic Italian specialties, prepared primarily with locally sourced and organic ingredients. A short, well-curated list of inexpensive wines and draft beer complement the offerings. L&D: W– Sa   I    $$

Grappa

30 Celebration Dr., Rochester (College Town), 424-4404, grapparoc.com

“Italian Nouveau” means all the classics presented in a clean, fresh style that matches the décor, plus appealing extras like zesty parmesan wings, beet salad with pistachio-encrusted goat cheese, and the classic burger. It’s a hotel restaurant that doesn’t feel like one. B, L&D: Daily      $$

Il Posto Bistro & Wine Bar 135 S. Main St., Canandaigua, 905-0535, ilpostobistroandwinebar.com Upscale bistro with pasta made on-site by their executive chef. An invigorating selection of wines from around the world to stimulate your palate. Tradition-

al Italian dishes with some unexpected surprises as well, such as chicken tagine, grilled tournedos, and pei mussels. D: T–Sa     $$

Joey’s Pasta House 1789 Penfield Rd., Penfield, 586-2426, joeyspastahouse.com

Traditional Italian pasta lovingly prepared in an elegant small-town setting. Something to suit any taste, from the tagliatelle bolognese to simple spaghetti and meatballs. Entrées include chicken, veal, and seafood served along with house pastas and sauces. D: M–Sa; L: Tu–F      $$

La Luna 60 Browns Race, Rochester (High Falls), 232-5862, lalunahighfalls.com

Old World Italian dining overlooking the High Falls at Browns Race. Notables include Italian-style pulled pork for lunch and roasted beet salad and gnocchi bolognese for dinner. L: M–Th; D: Th–Sa  I    $$

Lemoncello Italian Restaurant & Bar 137 W. Commercial St., East Rochester, 385-8565, lemoncello137.com

Aside from serving a wide range of authentic Italian dishes like caprese salad, calamari fritti, and homemade arancini, Lemoncello’s kitchen is lead by East Rochester native Nick LaPietra. Both the owners and chef have Italian heritage, ensuring the ambiance and menu are like stepping into Rome or Venice for a few hours. Live mood music most weekends. D: Daily  I     G $$$

Lucca Kitchen and Cocktails

425 Merchants Rd, Rochester, 448-0061, luccakitchen.com

Fresh flowers on every table, authentic Italian cuisine, and a memorable interior are just a few of the things you can expect at this neighborhood joint. Signature drinks are broken down by the main alcohol component, and food is served in respectable portions at this modern and cozy restaurant. L&D: Tu–Sa; Br: Su  I    $$

Napa Wood Fired Pizza 687 Moseley Rd., Fairport (Perinton Hills), 223-5250; 573 S. Clinton Ave., Rochester (South Wedge), 232-8558; 1900 Empire Blvd., Webster, 347-4540; napawoodfired.com

Start with stuffed banana peppers or a pear and gorgonzola salad but save room for the main event. Pizzas are prepared neapolitan-style and cooked in an intensely hot oven. Selection is mostly Italian with fusion picks like cubano and greek. Locations in the South Wedge, Perinton Hills, and Baytowne Plaza. L&D: Daily  I     $$

Rella 181 Monroe Ave., Rochester, 454-3510

There’s no website. There’s no Facebook page. There are no reservations or even tables. But there are seats at the bar, fifteen to be exact, and there’s all kinds of cred—this is Mark Cupolo’s downthe-street sister restaurant to the beloved Rocco, with “a focus on fresh seafood and small plates.” (There is an Instagram.) D: M, W–Sa   $$

Rocco 165 Monroe Ave., Rochester, 454-3510, roccorochester.com

From the signature bellini to the unparalleled butterscotch budino, Rocco delivers a front-to-back excellent and authentic Italian dining experience. Go with an open mind, order what your server suggests, and make a reservation a week in advance (the place is tiny). D: M–Sa; L: F  I    $$

585mag.com | May/June 2020

Taste | Dining guide Paulino’s

Vern’s

can flavor to Rochester under a different name and at a new location. L&D: Daily   $

Jimmy Paulino is serving the kind of homey Italian fare that can’t go wrong at what was previously Roncone’s. The restaurant prides itself on being authentic and affordable, and the cozy atmosphere gives that classic Italian restaurant vibe. L: Tu–F; D: Tu–Sa     $$

This über modern take on classic Italian dining is anything but ordinary. The bar offers everything from classic and original alcoholic and nonalcoholic cocktails to locally sourced meals designed to be shared. The cozy eatery on Park Ave. offers yet another unique dining experience to Rochestarians. D: Daily  I    $$

Monte Alban Mexican Grill

2003 Lyell Ave., Rochester, 458-3090, paulinositalianrestaurant.com

Pane Vino on the Avenue

3400 Monroe Ave., Pittsford, 586-7000, panevinoontheavenue.com

Recently opened sister location to the original Pane Vino. Features an expanded menu of traditional Italian cuisine. Two large banquet halls offer space for parties of 20–250. L: M–F; D: Daily     $$

Pane Vino on the River

175 N. Water St., Rochester (Downtown), 232-6090, panevinoontheriver175.com

Posh Italian place with a view of the river and skyscrapers downtown. Wide variety of traditional pasta dishes along with steak, veal, pork chops, and seafood. L: M–F; D: Daily     $$

Polizzi’s

274 N. Goodman St., Rochester (Village Gate) 363-5100, polizzis.com

Casual fine dining of Mediterranean style, from Spain to Greece. Entrées include a Middle-Eastern moussaka, an Italian minulotti, and many others to provide a full survey of Mediterranean cooking. There is also an extensive bar food menu consisting of Mediterranean pizzas, soups, and many other options. D: M–Sa     G $$

Proietti’s

980 Ridge Rd. E., Webster, 872-2330, proiettis.com

Prioetti’s stated goal is to serve italian cuisine that rivals that of any big American city. The menu is a mix of traditional Rochester dishes and surprises, like chicken riggies, which hails from Utica. A fall favorite is homemade butternut squash ravioli with creamy marinara sauce. Don’t pass on the cannoli for dessert. D: Tu–Su      $$

Questa Lasagna

55 Main St., Mount Morris, 658-3761, questalasagna.com

This early player in the renaissance of Mount Morris has staying power for a reason. There are delicious Italian pastries and cookies in the display case, as well as lovely salads, antipasti, and panini. The lasagna is made from scratch using an imported Italianmade machine proudly on display. There are varieties made from meat, cheese, and seafood, but save room for the chocolate dessert lasagna. L&D: Th–Tu; Closed: W     $

Ristorante Lucano

1815 East Ave., Rochester (Brightondale), 244-3460, ristorantelucano.com

The place to go for authentic Italian cuisine. Here, old country recipes have built a strong following for this family-owned restaurant.The menu features traditional southern Italian pasta dishes as well as grilled lamb, beef, and seafood. D: Tu–Sa     $$

MEXICAN Bitter Honey

127 Railroad St., Rochester (Marketview Heights), 270-4202, bitterhoneyroc.com

This long-awaited Mexican joint is adding heat to an already sizzling dining scene at the Rochester Public Market. Co-owner Zack Mikida is passionate about the country, its food, and especially mezcal, as the bar menu illustrates. Fun tacos, the salsa flight, and superb cocktails are fan favorites. L: F; D: M–Sa; Br: Sa  I    $$

Dorado

690 Park Ave., Rochester (East End), 244-8560, doradoparkave.com

Dorado bills itself as “Latin fusion,” but the emphasis is on Mexico—with tacos, enchiladas, and burritos. The molé sauce is made in-house. Hints of Cuba and Argentina can be found in the pork sandwich and steak chimmichurri. Sit outside for a view of Park Avenue’s busy sidewalks. L&D: Daily  I    $$ John’s Tex-Mex 426 South Ave., Rochester, 434-0026, johnstexmex.com.com

A cozy cantina in a vibrant downtown setting, John’s Tex-Mex is known for having the “best burrito in town” while providing a large selection of mouthwatering entrées with vegan and vegetarian options included. Enjoy a generously portioned feast for a low price while basking in the sun. L&D: M–Sa  G   I  $

Solid, family-friendly Mexican restaurant where the extensive menu will take longer to digest than the meal. The seafood choices are surprisingly good, reminiscent of a seaside grill along the Baja California. The steaks are flavorful and value priced. Locations in Irondequoit, Webster, and Penfield. L&D: Daily      $ Neno’s Gourmet Mexican Street Food 649 Monroe Ave., Rochester, 434-0026, nenosmexican.com

A delightful addition to Rochester’s Mexican cuisine scene (which (585)’s Nick Abreu says is in “a golden age of tacos”) Neno’s originally operated as a muchloved food truck until it opened its colorful, modest establishment. There is an emphasis on braised beef tacos, bursting with flavor and piled high with ingredients. L&D: Tu–Su   G $

Ox and Stone

282 Alexander St., Rochester (East End), 287-6933, oxandstone.com

Latin kitchen, cocktail parlor, and social house serving tapas, paella, and house-made tortillas in a fun and lively atmosphere. Live music, taco Tuesdays and tapas Wednesdays, late-night snacks, and rotating draft beers. D: M–Sa; L: F–M; Br: Sa–Su  I     $$ Old Pueblo Grill 55 Russell St., Rochester (Neighborhood of the Arts), 730-8057, oldpueblogrillroc.com

Southwest-inspired Latin cuisine specializing in tacos, tortas, and burritos. Features a lively atmosphere reminiscent of the Tucson area, where executive chef Joe Zolnierowski IV (of Nosh fame) spent two decades working in some of the city’s best bars and restaurants. L&D: M–Sa  I    $

Rio Tomatlan

With its unique indoor/outdoor patio bar, La Casa is a funky addition to the South Wedge neighborhood. Huevos three different ways, including ranchero, are at the top of the menu. Other specialties are made fresh and are lighter than Mexican food often is. Live music Friday and Saturday nights. L&D: M–Sa  I     $

This regional favorite reopened in a new location after a fire destroyed the previous spot. Locally sourced tomatillos are used in many of the Pacific Coast–inspired entrées, along with delicious queso Oaxaca. The tequila bar is the best in the region, with dozens of choices and three sampler flights. Open: L&D: Tu–Su      $$

Lulu Taqueria

Salena’s Mexican Restaurant

Mexican cantina situated on the edge of the Erie Canal. Features traditional dishes with some unusual offerings such as a smoked swordfish taco or cauliflower taco as a vegetarian option. Enjoy one of many imported wines while sitting on the patio. L&D: Tu–Sa  I    $

Mexican staples are available at one of Village Gate’s original anchors, but the menu also goes off on flights of fancy like Dos Equis–braised chicken wings and poblano cream pork medallions. L&D: Tu–Sa; D: Su  I    G  $$

93 Alexander St., Rochester (South Wedge), 730-5025, rochesterlacasa.com

6 N. Main St., Fairport, 377-0410, luluroc.com

Mesquite Grill 910 Elmgrove Rd., Rochester 363-5826, mesquitemexgrill.com

318 East Ave., Rochester (East End), 454-5444, venetorestaurant.com

Veneto led the trend of woodfired pizzerias back in 2001 and is still a hot destination for thin crust pizzas with those crucial char marks on the bottom. Choose from six traditional varieties or build your own or opt for pasta, a salad, or a tempting daily special. L: W–Th; D: Tu–Su  I    $$

Mi Barrio Burrito Place 319 Exchange Blvd., Rochester, 271-3655, facebook.com/mibarrioburritoplace Missing Paola’s Burrito Place? You’re in luck. The owners have brought the same fresh, authentic Mexi-

May/June 2020 | 585mag.com

845 Ridge Rd. E., Irondequoit; 2160 Penfield Rd., Penfield; 2245 Empire Blvd., Webster, 697-0615, montealbangrill.com

La Casa Mexican Restaurant and Cantina

This family-friendly, picturesque restaurant brings Mexican culture and cuisine to Rochester through authentic favorites such as carnitas, chiles poblanos, pollo asado, and many others. There is also a wide selection of dishes such as tacos, burritos, and quesedillas. L&D: Daily     $

Veneto Gourmet Pizza and Pasta

690 Park Ave., Rochester, 340-6689, iloveverns.com

106 Bemis St., Canandaigua, 394-9380, riotomatlan.com

302 N. Goodman St., Rochester (Village Gate), 256-5980, salenas.com

The Silver Iguana

663 Winton Rd. N., Rochester (Browncroft), 270-4723, silveriguanacantina.com

Mexican-inspired cantina with a modern atmosphere, specialzing in tacos and tequila. A range of meat and vegetarian options is available. The submarine cocktails add a unique flair with choices like the Dark and Stormy and the El Diablo. D: Daily; Brunch: Sa–Su I   G  $

REGIONAL 110 Grill

780 Jefferson Rd., Henrietta, 340-6030, 110grill.com

The nationwide restaurant chain has set up shop in

Taste | Dining guide Rochester, catering specially to gluten-free patrons. The modern American menu is almost completely gluten-free or can be modified to be, with all staff trained for allergen awareness. L&D: Daily     G $$

Abundance Food Co-Op

571 South Ave., Rochester (South Wedge), 454-2667, abundance.coop

This grocery co-op features a deli serving up fresh sandwiches, wraps, soups, and salads and a hot bar with eclectic international cuisine. Open Daily   

BC’s Chicken Coop

159 W. Main St., Webster, 265-1185, bcschickencoop.us

Just chicken and ribs done right. BC’s Chicken Coop isn’t concerned with having the fastest service or the widest menu, only on doing what it does best. Everything is made fresh daily, from the mashed potatoes to the “Coop Sauce” to the chicken, fried as you order it. L&D: Sa–Su, D: Tu–Fr     G $$

The Beer Hall Grill and Taps

1517 Empire Blvd., Webster, 434-0026, thebeerhallroc.com Enjoy a relaxed night out with the family while savoring a wide selection of unique brews. The menu provides many options ranging from “Brewers’s Cobb Salad” and grain bowls to the “Smoked Meat Sammy.” There’s live music on the patio during the warmer months. L&D: M–Su    G   I $

Blades BBL

1290 University Ave., Rochester, 266-5000, bladesbbl.com

This “BBL” joint features an open kitchen design and all-day breakfast, brunch, and lunch menus. Propped up where the former Huther Brothers saw manufacturing facility once stood, the menu blends traditional classics with modern choices. There are plenty of options for vegetarians and those with food sensitivities and fun mimosa selections. Open daily  I   G  $

Blades Bar and Grill

1290 University Ave., Rochester, 271-5000, bladesroc.com

The recently renovated Blades, formerly Pomodoro (and before that, also Blades) offers classic, no-fail American-Italian cuisine. Beautiful decor and an unexpected, large, and lush patio out back make this locale ideal for special events. D: Daily  I    $$

Boxcar Donuts & Fried Chicken 127 Railroad St., Rochester 270-5942, eatatboxcar.com

Exciting menu with combos of things like donuts, fried chicken, and waffles. Pair it with a coffee or a cocktail to make this the perfect quick and easy comfort food eatery. The bar includes sixteen draft beers and twelve different cocktails. B, L&D: T–Su    G $

Chortke House of Kebab 352 N. Goodman St., Rochester, 498-1216

A sleek modern design paired with very traditional cooking brings Rochesterians a rare look into Iranian dining. The husband-and-wife team will accommodate any dietary needs including paleo and vegan. The spicy joojeh comes highly recommended. L&D: Tu-Sa    G $

Clutch Kitchen + Sports Bar

3208 Latta Rd., Greece, 270-4350, clutchkitchen.com

Love sports but hate the Budweiser and chili fries? Clutch takes the time-worn tradition of Sunday

afternoon quarterbacking and raises the game. You’ll see the same bank of flatscreen TVs at dozens of other sports bars around town and an artfully arranged wall of sports memorabila. On your plate will be inspired gourmet recreations of your favorite bar food. Tuck into a burrata caprese salad along with your choice of seventy beers. D: Daily; Br: Su   I    $$

The Daily Refresher

293 Alexander St., Rochester (East End), 360-4627, thedailyrefresher.com

There’s Ernest Hemingway, bloody mary in hand, finishing up an extra about the Greco-Turkish War in 1921. It’s easy to imagine a young “Papa” among the subdued lighting and tufted antique chairs of this pub inspired by the Golden Age of Newspapers. Toasted sandwiches are named after famous broadsheets, and cocktails are what those fast-talking reporters tossed back between deadlines. D: Tu–Su  I     $$

Dogtown Hots

691 Monroe Ave., Rochester (Lower Monroe), 271-6620, dogtownhots.com

Dogtown dishes out a menu of international hot dog specials using indigenous main ingredients: Zweigle’s red and white hots and french rolls from local bakery Martusciello’s. Roam the culinary globe with menu fixers ranging from the Cincinnati Red Dog (chili cheese dog, real cheddar, and Dogtown’s meat sauce) to the Greek Stray (tzatziki, tomatoes, onions, kalamata olives, and pepperoncini topped with feta cheese). The menu also offers meatless options, a kids’ meal, and plates. Dog-loving guests from near and far donate photos of their pets to decorate the tiny dining room’s walls. L&D: M–Sa      $$

ITALIAN AMERICAN FINE DINING GATHERINGS FROM 25 - 200

PANE VINO ON THE AVENUE 3400 MONROE AVENUE ROCHESTER, NY 14618 585.586.7000

Gate House Café

274 N. Goodman St., Rochester (Village Gate Square), 473-2090, thegatehousecafe.com

The burgers rank among the best in the city; they’re named after local celebrities past and present, such as Frederick Douglass, Susan B. Anthony, Lou Gramm, Garth Fagan, and Kristen Wiig. The pizzas are thin neopolitan style, cooked in a wood fire oven. Dinner is informal, with apps that can be upsized to entrées. L&D: Daily      $$

PANE VINO ON THE RIVER 175 N WATER STREET ROCHESTER, NY 14604 585.232.6090

Genesee Brew House

25 Cataract St., Rochester (High Falls), 263-9200, geneseebeer.com/brew-house

Great views of the High Falls and downtown from a two-story pub and rooftop patio at the historic Genesee Brewing Company. Pub fare features a few German selections. The bavarian pretzels and sausage platter, served with mustard, pair well with Genesee’s beers. Hourly brewery tours and tasting room on-site. L&D: Daily  I     $

The Hideaway

197 Park Ave., Rochester (Park Ave.) 434-0511, hoganshideaway.com

Hogan’s is back—though it’s changed through new ownership and seems headed in a different direction (including a name alteration that hasn’t quite stuck yet). The layout, for starters, isn’t what you’ll remember—it’s now “farm implement chic,” reflective of its more farm-to-table menu. The food is solidly tasty, and the beverage menu is presented as a fun matrix (“gin” plus “classics” will lead you to “Negroni”). Notable items are smoky tomato bolognese, pork carnitas, and rotating seasonal salads. L&D: Daily      $$

Hole in the Wall Restaurant

7056 Standpipe Rd., Perry, 237-3003, holeinthewallperry.com

This family-owned and operated spot overlooking Silver Lake has been around in some iteration for more than seventy years. The free meals for active

585mag.com | May/June 2020

Taste | Dining guide ents that are organic and from the region. Popular menu items include truffle mac ’n’ cheese, sushi rolls, and the Next Door Bolognese. L&D: M–Sa      $$ Nosh

47 Russel St. (NOTA), 445-8700, noshroc.com

Tucked down a side street off University, Nosh is a giant, airy place remodeled in the industrial-spacemeets-reclaimed-barn-wood genre. There’s nothing run-of-the-mill about the food here, though. The menu is eclectic and ambitious, and it totally works. Craft cocktails, a good wine list, and tempting desserts round out the experience. D: Tu–Sa; Br: Su  I    G  $$$

New Ethic Pizzeria & Cafe

545 Titus Ave., Rochester, 623-8231, newethicpizza.com

A completely vegan pizzeria that offers buffalo chickpea pizza, eleven different wing sauces, and Beyond Burger garbage plates? New Ethic is the first of its kind around Rochester. D: W–Sa     G $

New York Beer Project

300 High St., Victor, 448-1148, theoldstonetavern.com

Not your typical neighborhood pub, NYBP offers an elegant experience in a grand location for an affordable night out. Enjoy “elevated versions of bar classics” (according to (585)’s Nick Abreu) while admiring the forty-six-foot cathedral ceilings with chandeliers, just like a New York City beer hall. This location has much to explore and is accessible to all. D: M–Tu; L&D: W–Su; Br: Sa–Su  I     G $$

Nox Craft Cocktails & Comfort Food 302 N. Goodman St. (Village Gate Square), 471-8803, noxcocktail.com

The Tomahawk Chop at Nosh servicemen in uniform still remains along with homemade Sunday dinners. Under Chef Travis Barlow, there’s new flavor and flair reflected in things like the Farmers Market 3 Course Menu. L&D: W– Su      $

Irondequoit Beer Company

765 Titus Ave., Rochester, 544-3670, irondequoitbeercompany.com

What was an age-old barn has been transformed to give Irondequoit its first brewery. Ten brewer-selected beers on tap combined with an even more extensive alcohol list and creative bar fixings to make this a new classic. L: Th–Su; D: W–Sa      $$

JJ’s Pub

669 Winton Rd. N., Rochester, 270-5991, facebook.com/JJsPub669/

The latest Rochester pub addition is the ideal spot for a night out with friends. Located in the old Mayfield’s on Winton Road, the pub offers frequent tastings and karaoke, as well as special guest singers. L: Sa–Su; D: Daily  I    $$

Jetty at the Port

1000 N. River St., Rochester, 621-2000, jettyattheport.com

Overlooking the Genesee River and Lake Ontario with great waterfront views. An array of seafood is offered from clams casino to shrimp étouffé. Try a Seafood Boil Bucket, with more than a pound of steamed seafood and your choice of sauce. L: F–Sa; D: Tu–Sa; Br: Su  I     $

Locals Only

311 Alexander St., Rochester (East End), 537-7566, localsonly311.com

May/June 2020 | 585mag.com

Breakfast, lunch, dinner, cocktails, and coffee. Features a wide selection of regional foods from Rochester to New York City. Signature cocktails are served all day long with prosecco on tap. Unique espresso drinks round out the menu and provide some flair for your meal. D: M–Sa; Br: Daily  I     $$

Magnolia’s Deli and Café

366 Park Ave., Rochester (Park Ave.), 271-7380, magnoliascafe.com

A cheery lunch spot with sandwiches named after neighborhood streets. “The Park Avenue,” for example, is turkey, hot corned beef, hot pastrami, swiss cheese, coleslaw, and russian dressing on rye bread. Order hot tea and receive a brightly colored mini teapot and bottle of honey. L&D: M–Sa; Br: Su  I    $$

Mi Viejo San Juan at Nortons Pub 1730 N. Goodman St. Rochester 544-9220, mi-viejo-san-juan-atnortons-pub.business.site

The latest addition to North Goodman Street is part Puerto Rican restaurant and part American pub. The menu boasts rellenos de papas and carne frita next to pizza logs and a hangover burger, embracing the two eatery styles with flair. L: Su; D: W–Su     $$

Next Door by Wegmans

3220 Monroe Ave., Rochester (Brighton), 249-4575, wegmansnextdoor.com

Next Door gives you a chance to try the finest fresh seasonal ingredients that Wegmans carries, prepared in a manner that’s delicious and healthy. Whenever possible, they choose ingredi-

Self-dubbed “nerd pub with literally unique craft cocktails” lives up to its claims with drinks like the “3PO,” “The Malfoy,” and “The Yellow Wallpaper.” There’s also a comfort food–focused menu with items like meatloaf, grilled cheese, and cornflakecoated chicken fingers. D: Daily     $$

The Old Stone Tavern

758 South Ave., Rochester (South Wedge), 448-1148, theoldstonetavern.com

This “neighborhood bar that happens to have great food” features burgers, dogs, and plates. Serving late into the night for its nocturnal patrons, this tavern combines the excitement of a sports bar with the comfort of an affordable place to hang out. Watch the game or gather your friends and play one of many table games—or darts—free. D: M–Tu; L&D: W–Su; Br: Sa–Su  I     G $

Original Grain

280 E. Broad St., Rochester, 270-4844, originalgrainsters.com

Feel-good food that’s also good for the body is the specialty at the latest healthy hotspot. With everything from vegan-friendly and gluten-free options to the Lox On Lox On Lox (as fun to say as it is to eat!), expect to add this to your cycle of smoothie stops. B, L&D: M–Sa  I    $$

The Original Steve’s Diner

1694 Penfield Rd., Penfield, 248-9996, theoriginalstevesdiner.com

This retro diner has been offering breakfast classics for local diners since 2002. Eggs any way you like, pancakes as huge as they are affordable, and specialties that blur the line between breakfast and dessert all are mainstays here. B&L: Sa–Su     $

The Playhouse // Swillburger

820 Clinton Ave. S., Rochester (Swillburg) 442-2442, theplayhouseroc.com

Taste | Dining guide If you love the Owl House, prepare to be pleasantly confused by its South Wedge sibling. This “barcade” has something for everyone: classic video games and pinball machines, juicy burgers (beef and veggie) and crispy fries, milkshakes with Eat Me ice cream, and a full bar featuring an impressive, rotating draught list—all in a chic, modern setting inside an 1890s structure built as a church. L&D: Daily   $

PopRoc

337 East Ave., Rochester, 310-2423, poprochester.com

Comics. Caffeine. Culture...Rochester’s first and only cereal and caffeine bar. The bar features local coffee roasters such as Fifth Frame and Canaltown. Aside from being a restaurant it is also a full-size comic shop. Sip on your coffee while browsing through the shop’s library of comics or grab a bowl of cereal while watching a movie on one of many television screens. L: Daily; D: M–Sa    $

Rebel Pi

2496 Ridge Rd. W., Rochester, 360-2630, rebel-pi.com

On the mission to fight back against “boring, uninspired” pizza, Rebel Pi offers global selections and create-your-own options that keep to its promise. Mediterranean, Thai, Italian, and Rochestarian all find a home within the menu. L&D: Daily      G $

Swan Dive 289 Alexander St., Rochester 413-53306, swandiveroc.com

This modern-style restaurant blends a comfy and casual dining atmosphere with high-end Italian cooking. The menu of classics like pizza and pasta contrasts well with casual bar snacks of homemade chicken nuggets and mozzarella sticks. The bar follows a similar pattern, having unique cocktails and fine wines along with canned beers and spirits. D: W–M    G $$

Trio

3423 Winton Pl., Rochester, 272-1551, trioddd.com

This upscale yet casual restaurant is perfect for small business meetings, a private party, or even a family dinner. The food is fresh picked and locally sourced whenever possible. Enjoy music, both inside and on the outside patio, played by a DJ on Friday and Saturday nights. D: Tu–Sa  I  G   $$

Roots Café

Union Tavern

Part of the Inspire Moore Winery compound, this laid-back locavore magnet embodies the spirit of Naples, a community bound indelibly to grape pies and wine. (No wonder the color motif is blue and purple). Rootsy Americana fare includes grass-fed burgers on house-made rolls to brunch improvisations such as polenta cakes with sunnyside-up eggs. Live music on a regular basis. L&D: Th–Sa; Br: Su (Hours change seasonally.) I    $$

Whether you’re looking for authentic coastal seafood or some classic pub dishes, Union Tavern offers a wide variety of hearty options and fun cocktails. Have a grand time in the comfortable downstairs bar and dining area or a date night or party in the vibrant upstairs dining room. L&D: Tu–Su  I    $$

Silk District Pub

Pub-like menu with an appreciation for fine dining. Find all of your classic sports bar favorites as well as an extensive selection of wings and locally made rubs and sauces. L&D: Daily  I   $

197 N. Main St., Naples, 374-9800, naplesvalleyny.com/roots-cafe

280 Exchange Blvd., Rochester, 730-4985, silkdistrictpub.com

Named after the Silk Stocking District, now known as Corn Hill, this pub strives to mix classic favorites with creative new dishes. There are several shared plates, entrées, and hand-helds to choose from, all at refreshingly reasonable prices. Bonus: that stunning view of the Freddie-Sue bridge. L&D: Daily  I  $$

Speakeasy at Monroe’s

3001 Monroe Ave., Pittsford 348-9103, speakeasybymonroes.com

Black tufted chairs with brass buttons recall the days of secret red-light bars during Prohibition. The waiters wear suspenders; the waitresses don pearls. The cocktails are named after guys with tommy guns and also Alcatraz, their eventual home. The food is elevated appetizers with a decent spread of Italian choices, though one doubts Al Capone would have appreciated a decent tuna niçoise. D: F–Sa; Su–Th: private events only   I   $$

St. Paul Proper

187 St Paul St, Rochester, 319-5939, facebook.com/St-Paul-Proper

Photos by Kate Melton

With sandwiches as dramatic as the eponymous movie, this shop has made its own name for itself. The menu is small, but each item is calculated down to the relish. “American melting pot,” fast-casual. Located next to Wegmans, it’s ideal for lunch stopins. L&D: Tu–Sa      G $

Upscale bar food mixed with a cozy eating atmosphere located in the St. Paul Quarter. Stays true to the classic bar scene with live sports and pub games but keeps it modern with its fresh and clean space. L: Sa–Su; D: Daily    $$

Superfly DMC

2157 Penfield Rd., Penfield, 678-9973, superflydmc.com

4565 Culver Rd., Rochester (Seabreeze), 563-7304, uniontavernseabreeze.com

Windjammers

4695 Lake Ave., Rochester (Downtown), 663-9691, windjammersbarandgrill.com

STEAKHOUSE

Alex’s Place Restaurant

8322 Park Rd., Batavia, 344-2999, alexsribs.com

Family restaurant featuring ribs, prime rib, steaks, sandwiches, burgers, and pasta near the I-90 exit in Batavia. A welcome alternative to chain restaurant dining along the Thruway. L&D: Daily      $$

Black and Blue Steak and Crab

3349 Monroe Ave., Rochester (Pittsford), 421-8111, blackandbluesteakandcrab.com

Serious seafood menu plus beef in various incarnations. Home of the kobe meatball and a twenty-oneounce cowboy ribeye. The centerpiece is a two-story wine bar with dozens of selections. Be sure to ask for food-pairing suggestions. L&D: M–F; D: Daily     $$$

LaSalle’s Steak and Crab

1500 Empire Blvd., Penfield (Irondequoit Bay), 482-5740, lasallessteakandcrab.com

Solid steak and shellfish spot with a waterside patio. D: Daily (Light menu Sunday)  I     $$

Nick’s Chophouse

5 Beeman St., Canandaigua, 393-0303, nickschophouseandbar.com

As our reviewer put it, “Sometimes you just want a decent steak.” Nick’s does steak—very well—and all of the things one would expect a steakhouse to do. There is big giant shrimp cocktail, flash-fried calamari (rolled in spicy blue cornmeal, as a twist), creamed spinach, and crème brûlée. The martinis are, of course, excellent—and imaginative. The wine list balances offerings under $30 with some over $100, with a nice selection in between. And it’s all housed in a friendly, cozy space right on the main drag. D: M–Sa    $$

Max Chophouse Wine & Martini Bar

1456 Monroe Ave., Rochester (Brighton), 271-3510, maxrochesterny.com

An old-school approach to running a steakhouse, Max’s offers a lively bar atmosphere, a simple, familiar menu, and really, really good steaks. Casual yet attentive service invites you to let your hair down, while the quality of the food—much of it locally sourced—invites you to indulge. D: Tu–Su     $$$

Morton’s the Steakhouse

125 E. Main St., Rochester, 232-3694, mortons.com/Rochester

This upscale steakhouse in the heart of downtown is Rochester’s newest fine dining destination. Classic surf and turf options are the specialty. Fresh jumbo shrimp, lobster tail, sea bass, rack of lamb, veal chops, and, of course, Morton’s signature steak all highlight the menu. An elegant 9,000-square-foot space fit with beautiful lighting fixtures, tall windows, and high ceilings evokes a ritzy atmosphere. D: Daily      $ $ $

Tillman’s Historic Village Inn

14369 Ridge Rd., Albion, 589-9151, tillmansvillageinn.com

Though popular for parties and brunch, Tillman’s is best known for its prime rib. There are plenty of menu items to choose from, though, from soups and apps to all manner of fish, chicken, pasta...you name it. If you do go for the beef, sauce it up with one of thirteen different “tastes,” from béarnaise to Montreal to lobster cream. L&D: Daily except winter Mondays, Br: Su     $$

Tournedos Steakhouse

26 Broadway, Rochester (Downtown), 232-3595, innonbroadway.com

A top-shelf steakhouse in the glitzy downtown Inn on Broadway. Start with the Italian-inspired appetizers and then move on to the main show. The beef is dry aged, which tenderizes the cut and concentrates flavor. While you’re probably here for the beef, you’ll also be tempted by the wild Tasmanian salmon or the Hawaiian Big Eye ahi tuna. The wine list seems nearly endless. L: M–F; D: Daily   $$$

Char at Strathallan

550 East Ave., Rochester (East End), 241-7100, charsteakandlounge.com

The steakhouse at the Strathallan boutique hotel raises the local bar on red meat with over-the-top presentation of steaks, veal, and lamb. Don’t pass on starters like the beef tartare—and save room for the amazing desserts. Char’s also becoming a hot spot for lunch, Sunday brunch, and get-togethers over handcrafted cocktails. B, L&D: Daily     G  $$$

585mag.com | May/June 2020

(585) magazine fuels my drive as a musician and artist. As I flip through the pages I “become acquainted with people in our city who are expressing themselves and working to make it a better place to live.” —JON LEWIS Musician and children’s entertainer, Mr. Loops

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Building a stable society with mud, carrots, and hope p.18

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River Spring Lodge is a fixed-price couples getaway p.60 Paper tricks will have you excited for a new project

Love the atomicage look? Decorate retro-style

Paint cabinets the easy way with chalk paint

Welcome spring! The seasonal flower movement shows no sign of fading from favor

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Come as you are to Seneca Lake’s Stonecat Café p.60

Index of advertisers To become a (585) advertiser, call 413-0040 Agness Wine Cellars (315)576-0375, agnesswinecellars.com ...................46 Arts Center of Yates Cty (315)536-8226, artscenteryatescounty.org ................21 Axes & Ales (585)270-8801, axesandales585.com .......................63 AXOM Home (585)232-6030, axomhome.com ..............................52 Bristol Valley Theater (585)374-6318, bvtnaples.org ..................................61 Clifton Springs Chamber of Commerce (315)462-8200, cliftonspringchamber.com ...............21

Free Style Mercantile (585)294-3035 ...............................71 George Eastman Museum (585)271-3361, eastman.org ....................................52 Geva Theatre Center (585)232-1366, gevatheatre.org ...............................19 Heron Hill Winery (800)441-4241, heronhill.com..................................46 Highlands of Pittsford Senior Living, The (585)586-7600, highlandsatpittsford.org .....................1 Hong Wah Restaurant (585)385-2808, hongwahrestaurant.com...................63

Corning Museum of Glass (800)732-6845, cmog.org ........................................43

Iron Smoke Distillery (585)388-7584, ironsmokedistillery.com ..................45

Cottages at Troutburg c/o Midlakes Management (585)473-8410, thecottagesattroutburg.com .............21

Jewish Senior Life (585)427-7760m, jewishseniorlife.org ........................ BC

Cricket on the Hearth (585)385-2420, cricketonthehearth.com ...................51 Diane Prince Furniture & Gifts (585)388-0060, dianepricefurniture.com...................51

Livingston County Tourism (585)243-2222, fingerlakeswest.com ........................47 Lucas Greenhouses (585)223-8951, lucasgh.com ...................................51

One Hip Chic Optical (585)461-2020, onehipchic.com ..............................55 Owl House/Play House (585)360-2920, owlhouserochester.com...................71 Pane Vino on the Ave (585)586-7000, panevinoontheavenue.com ..............73 Perri’s at the Brighton Pub (585)244-9090, perrispizza.com ...............................63 Radio Social (585)244-1484, radio-social.com .............................61 Salon Crystallia (585)750-2090 ...............................55 Salty Boutique (585) 662-9092, sheissalty.com ................................63 Seward House Museum (315)252-1283, sewardhouse.org .............................21 Sheldrake Point Vineyard (607)532-9401, sheldrakepoint.com .........................46 Sonnenberg Mansion & Gardens (585)394-4922, sonnenberg.org ...............................52 Susan Ververs (585)785-2000 ...............................51

Melton Racquet Sports Imaging (585)732-5090, instagram.com/racracquet ...............43

Upstate Pain Clinic (585)267-7700, upstatepainclinic.com .....................65

Eastview Mall (585)223-3693, eastviewmall.com......................IFC,43

Memorial Art Gallery (585)276-8900, mag.rochester.edu ..........................42

Upstate Gardeners’ Journal (585)733-8979, upstategardenersjournal.com ...........52

Farmer’s Creekside Tavern & Inn (585)768-6007, farmerscreekside.com .....................45

Monroe Veterinary Associates (585)271-2733, monroevets.com .............................42

Vertical Elegance (585)641-2152, verticalelegance.com ......................63

Dr. Konstantin Frank (800)320-0735, DrFrankWines.com ..........................46

585mag.com | May/June 2020

Seen (585) magazineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s March/April issue launch and happy hour At Radio Social, March 03, 2020 Photos by Abby Rose Esposito

Zak Bardeen and Alan Taylor

Leah Stacy and Melissa Feldman

Erika Utter, Kathleen Ebeling, Kristin Mathis, Wendy Michaelson, and Laura Swogger

Rosemary Janofsky, Andy Scott, and Carl Appleton

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May/June 2020 | 585mag.com

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585mag.com | May/June 2020

Unplugged The epidemi-mom-blog-ist

Martina Anto-Ocrah finally has the crazy under control By John Ernst

“Come on, come on, take a step. Eat, sit, laugh.” It was tasks that you have to accomplish before mommy started school. There’s one thing that I wish I had enjoyed, was more with the pregnancy, I wish I’d enjoyed my triplet pregnancy a lot more. I was just so stressed about grad school, and I also wish that I enjoyed raising them a little bit more rather than being on a fast track. I was just in a hurry to start my life. So those are the two things that I wish I had done a little bit more.

How did you get into blogging the way that you do? I started posting stories of my life as a parent when I had triplets. Can I swear? Because I realized that my life was a total shit show. It was just chaotic. I had a singleton, and the next thing I knew I had three newborns. My mother-in-law was living with me, my aunts was living with me, everything was just insanity, and honestly it was ludicrous. There was no way that any person could be normal under these circumstances. So I started posting really ridiculous stories of trying to run away from my life. I started getting attention because it was so humorous, and I guess no one had been that authentic. I refused to lie or not tell the truth about what was happening.This intense desire to escape. So that’s how I started, just dealing with the craziness of having triplets and a singleton at once. Did you always want to be a mom? Man, that’s a deep question. I think most people immediately say “yes, I’ve always wanted to be a mom.”Yeah... I wouldn’t give that easy answer. When I met my husband and we were dating, I told him that I didn’t want kids. Because I had sort of been a parent for my siblings. I had taken on a parental role for most of my life, so I really don’t think that I wanted to take care of more people. But my husband wanted to have kids, and he goes, “I want five children.” I said, “Not out of this body.” I literally remember being like, “Not out of this hot bod.” I said, “I’ll give you two.” We had two pregnancies and we have four kids. So it worked out perfectly. So when you found out about the triplets, you already had a threeyear-old? Yeah. He was three years. I hadn’t started graduate school yet, but I’d been accepted. So that I had to call and defer graduate school for a year. Let me tell you, that year, I willed those children. I was like, “You are going to walk.” I remember them and I’m like, 80

May/June 2020 | 585mag.com

Your blog is hilarious. Reading it, you just spell and type everything in a way that I knew exactly how you would sound before I met you. Oh perfect. Awesome. Thank you. I hope the people get that from it. I hope that people also realize a lot of it is in humor. There was one white posting about my daughter Kennedy, of course not wanting to wear sneakers to school. Once she got to school, she couldn’t participate in gym and people were like, “you should have taken her shoes to her,” and I was like, “no, I am not going to drive and go and deliver a pair of shoes to my daughter just so she can participate in gym. It was a choice that she made. So tomorrow she can decide whether she wants to do it.”Then that one had so many likes and so many comments. The next day she wore the sneakers to school. So there are actions and consequences and the picture on there is me sipping water. What else? Figure it out! So I hope that people realize that there’s a lot of humor and I hope they get that. If they start taking things seriously then they’re not necessarily the target audience for me anyway. Is there anything we haven’t mentioned that you want to touch on? I think perhaps you can mention the support person. I think I want to give kudos to single parents, because parenting is really difficult. So when I meet single parents, I didn’t realize how difficult being a single parent was until when my husband travels or something that. So all the support people in all of our lives, I say thank you, and to the single parents too. Bravo, great, great job because this stuff is not easy at all. Read our full interview with Anto-Ocrah—including the story of how she got on the Netflix reality show Nailed It!—on 585mag.com, and be sure to check out her page, “How is This ‘Normal?’” on Facebook.

Photo by Michael Hanlon

As a part-time blogger, full-time epidemiologist, and even fullertime mom, Rochester’s Martina Anto-Ocrah finally has the crazy under control. We met with the humorist for this special Mother’s Day edition of Unplugged.

Is there a pet peeve you have that you see other moms do in public? Oh my God, we’re going to go there? Oh Lord. Judging. I think that as parents, we’re quick to judge each other. We’re quick to jump to the conclusion of, oh, can you shut your child up? I mean, I don’t know. If a parent is sort of having a difficult time managing their child, they feel so guilty. You’d be able to recognize when a child is out of control crying probably because they’re sleepy or they’re hungry and we’re all kind of given the mom the stare. Oh, don’t even think of an airplane. When you’re on that airplane, that child is sitting next to you and will not stop crying and we’re just like, can you shut that child up? It’s so much easier to say that. I think I just wish that we would perhaps judge a little bit less, this is incredibly difficult. But that parents under a lot of stress and they’re embarrassed. They are aware that their child is misbehaving. They are aware their child will not stop crying.They wished they weren’t under that situation. But they can’t control it. So that is definitely the one thing if I could say that we could perhaps try and maybe lend a hand if possible a little bit more.

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