Food & Drink

Food & Drink Cooking...

with Mrs Simkins

Broccoli Bake

Actually, that’s not quite right! As any gardener knows, the large round green heads sold as broccoli in the shops, are a fair-weather cousin of true broccoli, known as calabrese. True broccoli is the slow maturing purple (or white) sprouting version with loose florets, harvested from November to March. Calabrese has a large, round, deep green head, a slightly milder taste, and is harvested from mid-summer to midautumn. Cook calabrese briefly: break into florets and steam or stirfry for around three minutes or until just tender, bright green, sweet and nutty. This lovely way with broccoli (I mean calabrese!) makes a delicious light dish for summer on its own with crusty bread. It’s also a wonderful accompaniment for roast chicken: roast a few potatoes, cut into chunks and scattered with herbs, while you’re at it, and you’re all set for a perfect summer Sunday roast.

Serves 2 as a light lunch or 4 as a side dish 1 small-medium onion, diced 125g closed cap or button mushrooms, sliced 1-2 tablespoons oil 300g calabrese, broken into florets Plus 300g tub full-fat crème fraiche 2 rounded tablespoons mayonnaise 1 generous teaspoon Dijon mustard Garlic puree to taste Generous pinch of chilli flakes (optional) Freshly ground black and ground white pepper to taste Plus 25g dry breadcrumbs Around 15g mature Cheddar cheese, grated Handful of herbs such as thyme, parsley, and oregano, finely chopped

Steam the calabrese for around three minutes or until bright green and just tender. Set aside. Fry the onion gently in the oil until soft but barely covered. Add the mushrooms halfway. Spread the onions and mushrooms over the bottom of the dish and arrange the calabrese on top. Blend the crème fraiche, mayonnaise, mustard, garlic puree black pepper, and chilli flakes (if using) in the empty pan, heat gently and pour over the vegetables in the dish. Combine the breadcrumbs, cheese and herbs and scatter thickly on top. Bake for 10-15 minutes until piping hot and bubbling.

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Mum’s Kitchen...

with Diana Holman

Apricot and Coconut Bars

Ingredients: 175g (6oz) dried apricots 3 tablespoons orange juice 175g (6oz) butter 2 tablespoons golden syrup 80g (3oz) plain flour 1 ¼ teaspoons bicarb 80g (3oz) desiccated coconut 115g (4oz) jumbo oats 175 (6oz) demerara sugar Grated zest of 1 orange

Method: Preheat the oven to 190C/fan oven 170C. Grease and line a 20cm (8in) square tin. Place apricots and orange juice in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and leave to cool. Puree the apricots in a blender or processor. In a saucepan, melt the butter and syrup together. Remove from the heat and stir in the flour, bicarbonate of soda, coconut, oats, sugar and orange zest, mixing well. Spoon half the mixture onto the prepared tin. Spread the apricot puree over and smooth with a palette knife, then top with the remaining coconut mixture. Smooth the top with a palette knife. Bake for 30-40 minutes until set and golden brown. Mark into bars, and cut and lift from the tin when cold. Store in an airtight tin.

Food & Drink Feel in the pink with nourishing chard and radish dish

Rebecca Vincent is a Wincanton nutritionist

Rainbow (Swiss) chard is coming to the peak of its summer season, and not only does it look beautiful on a plate with its multicolour stalks, but it offers a wide variety of beneficial nutrients. Chard is a great source of carotenes, vitamins B6, C, E and K, thiamine, folic acid, niacin, potassium, magnesium, iron, calcium, manganese, and selenium. Radishes are an incredibly versatile, colourful perk of the season that is great for more than just salads. They are an excellent source of vitamin c, folate, potassium, and manganese and even contain coenzyme Q10 a fatsoluble antioxidant coenzyme. Radishes are very low in carbohydrates and low on the glycemic index, making them a great option for those watching their carbohydrate intake. Whilst both chard and radishes can be eaten raw, in this recipe we will be cooking both. Cooking radishes mellows their peppery flavour and adds a slight sweetness that compliments the bitter greens beautifully. The recipe, and the vegetables, offer a wide variety of colours and therefore an abundance of polyphenols, chard alone is thought to contain as many as 13 different polyphenol antioxidants.

Sautéed Swiss chard and radishes (Serves 2) 1 big handful or 150g rainbow chard 6 large or 8 small radishes 1 garlic clove (finely grated) small knob of butter or glug of extra virgin olive oil black pepper Optional toppings: a sprinkling of feta, parsley, and /or mixed seeds Wash the chard and radishes. Separate the stalks from the leaves of the chard and set both aside, top and tail, then quarter the radishes lengthways. Heat a frying pan on a medium-high heat, add the butter and radishes, sauté for around three minutes, stirring occasionally until they are just starting to colour. Add the stalks from the chard and the garlic and sauté for a further two minutes, continuing to stir so the garlic doesn’t catch. Finally, add the leaves from the chard and mix in until wilted. Serve with toppings of your choice. Lovely with poached fish or piled on a slice of sourdough toast. Rebecca Vincent BSc BANT registered nutritionist rebeccavincentnutrition.co.uk

Ideas sought for ‘hidden’ foodie places

By Steve Keenan

newsdesk@blackmorevale.net Hidden places across the Blackmore Vale with a foodie history are being invited to throw open their doors in September. Heritage Open Days is an annual event whereby free access is given to buildings and places not normally open to the public. And this year’s tasty theme is Edible England, so organisers are looking for a food-related twist to hidden places and are inviting venues to take part. One idea has already come from The Landmark Trust, which is opening up the Clavell Tower above Kimmeridge Bay – where staff will tell visitors what dinosaurs on the coast used to eat. Other ideas from around the country include Picnic like a Victorian in Hertfordshire and Funeral Feasts in Barnsley – food traditions that took place in graveyards. With the Blackmore Vale’s dairy history, there will be plenty of opportunities for milk and cheese-related buildings to open up plus perhaps special openings of flour mills and breweries? The event runs from September 10-19 and Heritage Open Days is now inviting ideas. “We are increasingly becoming a nation of foodies and what we eat and drink is at the heart of much of our history and culture, our communities and daily lives,” said programme manager Sarah Holloway. “The theme will inspire a broad spectrum of events and activities, from revealing culinary tastes of the past, to going behind-the-scenes of modern production methods, exploring the customs and quirks that have developed around what we eat and drink, as well as the fascinating history of some of our regional and national specialities. “Through a mix of in-person and digital events, communities will celebrate the stories of the places, plates and produce that are important to them, both locally and further afield.” For more information and to register an event, go to heritageopendays.org.uk. All events are free but most will need to be booked in advance. Sadly, the access to Clavell Tower is already sold out.

This thoroughbred Greyhound is a

By Toby Hartwell

newsdesk@blackmorevale.net

I am sitting outside the Greyhound, which lies pretty much in the heart of the picturesque village of Sydling St Nicholas. Set amongst chalk hills and far from the madding crowd this is true Hardy Country. My drive through the beautiful rolling hills and picture-perfect thatched cottages was to meet Ed Cracknell, who runs The Greyhound with his partner Eniko. Ed is passionate about the pub and the village, and his enthusiasm is infectious as he talks about his time here and how he overcame last year’s challenges; more of which later. The origin of the Greyhound name seems unclear but apparently a stone shield with a coat of arms found under the flooring featured a greyhound, so there is definitely a heraldic connection. One of four pubs owned by Janette and Rod Lamont, this has a good ‘foodie’ appeal. Ed has been a chef throughout his career. Dorset born, initially living in the Poole area, his career has included working on the QE2, at The St Pierre Park Hotel on Guernsey and then at The Close in Tetbury where he cooked for many celebrities and royalty, and I suspect he has some good stories to share! He clearly loves running The Greyhound and whilst not a thatched building in the style of much of Sydling St Nicholas it has real personality and Ed clearly wants all his customers and guests to have a great experience. His delightful partner Eniko and helpful staff play a big part in making you both very welcome. They serve the most delicious food and if the mood takes you and you aren’t driving anywhere, they will make you some very enjoyable cocktails. There are six rooms, decorated in different and distinctive styles and all dog friendly as you would expect at a pub called The Greyhound! In fact, the rooms are named after Janette’s (the owner) puppies. This is definitely a great spot for walkers and cyclists who want to stay over and enjoy the facilities or just pop in for a refreshing pint. If you are a runner the village hosts 800 or so competitors in the Giant’s Head marathon; with all the surrounding hills, not one for the light-hearted! Given Ed’s past experience, it is not surprising that there is a varied and lip-smacking menu and Ed is keen to make the most of local ingredients. Menus change daily and showcase the region’s freshest produce, from Dorset beef to seasonal game like venison and wild boar as well as fish from the Jurassic Coast, just 20 minutes away. The Sydling Water that flows through the village has long sustained local watercress farming. During the Second World War German and Italian PoWs repaired two farms and apparently watercress was used as a dye for camouflage. The Greyhound has twice

WARM WELCOME: The grape vine which covers the entrance at The Greyhound at Sydling St Nicholas and, below, enjoying a drink in the lovely gardens

thoroughly enjoyable place to visit

been named Dorset’s best pub for food, and featured in both The Good Pub Guide and CAMRA’s Good Beer Guide. You won’t be disappointed by the choice of drinks at the Greyhound. Whilst about two thirds of their turnover is food sales the drinks menu is carefully chosen and includes local beers such as Copper Street, Piddle, Fine Tuned Brewery and Exmoor Ales. Not surprisingly given Ed’s background the wine list is very well chosen and includes features nearby Bride Valley wines. Behind the bar there are spirits for all tastes including some interesting gins including Mermaid and Conker. For the connoisseur or that special celebration there is Beluga Vodka from Kazakhstan at £22 a shot as well as more recognisable and affordable favourites. Sitting outside I enquired about the grape vine that covers the entrance. Ed’s eyes lit up, as this is his pride and joy and has a name, Esmerelda. This 35-year-old vine produces 90 kilos of grapes a year and in full leaf has about half a ton of foliage, transforming the patio into a continental style courtyard in the summer months. Its produce is used to make some wine but also crab apple and grape jelly and an enterprising villager also makes grape chutney. Reflecting on the last 12 months, it is clear that The Greyhound has been an indispensable part of pandemic-struck village life. Quickly turning the covered conservatory into a pop-up shop Ed and Eniko were amazed by the ‘unprecedented support’ that the village provided; but clearly they were much appreciated, serving over 100 takeaways a week during lockdown and providing fresh bakery items. This led to the establishment of a regular Thursday Coffee Shop, regularly attended by 40 or some grateful villagers The village produced a very impressive printed book of memories of the lockdown period last year and it has pictures of the village turning out to thank Ed and Eniko and staff for all they did during an unsettling period. It was interesting to read that between March and June last year they sold 1,008 portions of chocolate brownies, 740 scotch eggs and amongst other things, sold 2,638 litres of milk and cream, 305 kilograms of tomatoes and 750 kilograms of potatoes and carrots! The Greyhound is a great asset for this lovely village of just over 400 people. The pub is a real hub and there is no end of new ideas from Ed and Eniko. Last Easter, a 10 kilo, threeand-a-half-foot high chocolate egg they made was raffled and raised £1,500 for the Air Ambulance charity and also helped pay for repairs to the village’s faceless clock. I would recommend you plan a day out to Sydling St Nicholas, take in a walk of the environs and then head for The Greyhound for a delicious meal and I can recommend starting the evening with Ed’s favourite cocktail, a Pinatini.

newsdesk@blackmorevale.net Tom Beattie seems like a fun guy, (sorry) despite liking to spend much of his time in darkened rooms. It isn’t often you come across a mycologist – that’s a fungi expert to you and I. Tom set up Fruit Bodhi Organics about two years ago, fresh out of university, after becoming fascinated by fungi years before. Mum Winky has long been used to Tom’s bedroom being crammed with species as young Tom experimented with growing multitudes of mushrooms. But when he returned from uni and moved back in to their home in East Coker he decided to turn his passion for mycology into a business. Since then, his business has quite literally mushroomed. He’s gone from simply selling the fruits for eating to producing kits for people to grow their own – a move he made coincidentally at the start of the first lockdown, luckily harnessing all that desire among us to grow our own food. His business, Fruit Bodhi Organics, is a small-scale, family run farm growing and nurturing mushrooms from spore to fork in an eco-friendly and sustainable manner. Once a small scale hobby in Tom’s bedroom, it gradually took over the bathroom and garden shed and most of his family home until Winky could stand it no more. Tom moved out and set up his farm in the old West of England Twineworks in West Coker, where he is today. He is a selftaught mycologist and there isn’t a mushroom-related book he hasn’t read, or a mushroom related website he hasn’t devoured. It is the crucial role that the fungal kingdom plays in ecosystems which Tom finds fascinating, and which has prompted him to widen his mycology knowledge further. Tom loves the earth and makes sure that his approach to the business is eco-friendly and kind to the planet. Winky said: “He’s been fascinated by mushrooms for a long time – he’s quite geeky about them. “So when he finished his degree in countryside management in Brighton he came home and then I had mushrooms in various stages all over the place. It’s taken a lot of time and investment, but thankfully he now has a proper laboratory at the new place, though I still do the packing at home.” Fruit Bodhi Organics is a real family affair, with everyone pitching in to help Tom make it a success. Tom’s sister Eleanor heads up marketing and PR, and his dad Toffer is general dogsbody and market trader. Their main products are oyster mushroom grow kits, which come in a range of colours –pink, grey, yellow, blue, and white. They are aimed at any age, allowing people to grow their very own delicious gourmet mushrooms. Fruit Bodhi Organics also sell

Mycologist’s growing success

dried oyster mushrooms and a ‘unique and magical’ mushroom seasoning (a blend of powdered dry mushrooms, Himalayan salt and herbs). Tom is also beginning to cultivate medicinal mushrooms including reishi, lions’ mane, shiitaki, and enoki and soon hopes to have these available. He is also developing a range of spore-based soil and mulch enhancers for gardeners.

Creamy Oyster Mushroom Spaghetti Ingredients 150 g spaghetti 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Fresh Oyster Mushrooms from your Fruit Bodhi Organics grow kit (a flush is usually about 250g) or a packet of Fruit Bodhi Organics Dried Oyster Mushrooms 3 cloves of garlic, crushed Small bunch of fresh parsley, chopped and leave a little to sprinkle over the top to serve 4 tbsp white wine 2 tsp Fruit Bodhi Organics mushroom seasoning 200 ml tub of half fat crème fraiche Method If you are using dried mushrooms make sure they are properly rehydrated by soaking them in cold water overnight or very hot/just boiled water for about an hour. Bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil. Add the pasta and cook per instructions on the packet. Heat the oil in a frying pan and add the mushrooms and fry for about 3 minutes until beginning to brown. Add garlic and cook for a further minute. Add the parsley, wine, mushroom seasoning and crème fraiche and season with salt and pepper. Heat through for 1 minute. Drain pasta and return to pan and add the contents of the frying pan. Stir through. Serve with the extra parsley. Serves 2

Farm shop adding all sorts after boom wanes

By Steve Keenan

newsdesk@blackmorevale.net A farm shop near Blandford is bringing in several new lines of produce after a slump in business in the gradual return to shopping normality. Enford Farmshop in Durweston was “really busy” in the first phase of lockdown 15 months ago, says farmer Christina Marks. “Unfortunately, now everyone is going back to the supermarket. We have been so quiet – so we have to bite the bullet and get more things in.” Flowers, cakes, sauces, soups, more deli, bread and flour are among new lines. Milk from Middle Farm, Manston, is being added to a range of grass-fed meats, fruit, vegetables and game. A fish van calls by on Wednesdays, and Christina is also spending a lot of time broadening Enford’s range with ‘hardware’ products. A pet corner with raw food and a garden section with seeds, bulbs and tools are also lined up, with an alcohol licence on the long list. The changes are not just because shoppers are going back to old habits, said Christina. “Another reason is that we are finding more and more farm shops opening up, so you want to stay ahead. “We are starting to get a bit more variety of stuff in and hopefully more inspiration. “I keep trying to come up with something different. We are now permanently changing things to keep up but our prices are not high. We are not charging a lot for our meat and we have really good and different stuff.” The third-generation Marks farming family took over Enford Farm 11 years ago and have sheep, a beef suckler herd and chickens. They also inherited the farm shop and a café – but the sale of food and hot drinks has finished. “It was so hard to do as well as serve customers,” said Christina. “If we had a full-on café it would be the size of the shop. It wasn’t worth playing around with it.” The farm has diversified with a caravan park on site with a shop, open from 8am-8pm daily with tinned foods, wood and other essentials. It’s hard work, with a sense of rebuild and purpose after the extraordinary period last spring when communities became so much more reliant on local shops and produce. Christina posted on the farm’s Facebook page last Christmas: “It’s been a challenging year for us all! I would like to thank all of you for buying local, supporting your local farmers, and helping us small businesses in these hard times stay afloat.” Now farm and community shops across The Blackmore Vale will be hoping that some residual goodwill and appreciation for the range of quality homegrown and locally reared produce isn’t over yet. Enford Farm Shop (DT11 0QW) is open Weds – Sat from 8.30am-4pm. Tel: 01258 450050.

Thatchers steps up as title sponsor

Thatchers Cider will be the title sponsor of the Bath & West Country Festival. Held at the Bath & West Showground on the August Bank Holiday weekend the festival replaces the usual Royal Bath & West Show for one year only, with live music and onsite camping. Alan Lyons, head of shows at the Bath & West said: “There is a big emphasis on Food & Drink, so we are really grateful to have the support of one of the country’s leading cider producers based here in Somerset.” Martin Thatcher, fourth-generation cider maker at Thatchers cider said: “We can’t wait to get back to the events and shows that we love and are looking forward to celebrating the best food and drink the county has on offer. “It promises to be a fantastic event.” Tickets are £15 per adult, which includes two free child tickets. Visit bathandwest.com/tickets to book or call 0333 242 7912.

Enford

Farm Shop

Durweston DT11 0QW Home reared and locally produced meats, game, deli, fruit, veg, free range eggs and lots more. Follow us on Facebook for all our latest meat pack deals and what’s in fresh that week. Fresh 昀sh van in the car park Wednesdays 9.30am-2pm Half a pig approx £100 Chicken feeds etc available Open Wednesdays to Saturday 8.30am-4pm. Outside shop with self service for essentials 8am-8pm open daily 01258 450050