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PHOTOS by Stephen Lang
El Farol
T
he word farol can be interpreted in myriad ways—light, lantern, lighthouse—meanings that orbit a central theme of illumination. The warm light that is the El Farol restaurant has been a landmark beacon on Canyon Road since 1968. Prior to that, the location was home to La Cantina del Cañon, which had drawn visitors since 1835. El Farol was not always the tapas mecca we cherish today. When owner David Salazar purchased the restaurant in 1985, he was inspired to bring to the Southwest the kind of innovative Spanish tapas cuisine he’d discovered on the plate at restaurants like the historic Ballroom in New York City. Santa Fe’s cultural history resonates with Spanish cuisine like no other American city’s, as its relationship with Spain dates back hundreds of years. Once a Spanish colony, the city was founded by, and continues to be home to, direct descendants from the Old World. According to Salazar, the Spanish legacy can be heard in the unique New Mexican norteño dialect, which still uses archaic words no longer in use in contemporary Spain, though Spaniards recognize them from old texts. But the true common language here is food. El Farol’s menu is rooted in the classics, such as the paella Valencia, which features Spanish saffron rice with shellfish, chorizo, and chicken served in a traditional cazuela at the table. Additional entrees include a 12-ounce Angus rib-eye steak and salmón a la plancha, p repared with Spanish Manchego cheese, polenta, saffron jus, and Catalan spinach. However, El Farol is best known for its stellar selection of small plates, or tapas. Ranging from cool options, tapas frias, to hot, tapas caliente, the presentation of colors, ingredients, and flavors is breathtaking. There’s something here for every taste, from longstanding favorites like gambas al ajillo (spicy sautéed garlic shrimp with lime and Madeira) and jamón serrano (mountain-cured Spanish ham with mustard), to innovations like codorniz (grilled quail with espresso barbecue sauce) and aguacate (crispy fried avocado with salsa cruda and lime cream). As Salazar proudly proclaims, this is passionate food that breaks the ice—equally effective for a potential romance or business venture.
El Farol is proud to offer flamenco dinner shows each Saturday night, featuring performers from the National Institute of Flamenco.
When people share food from the same plate, they share a deeply human moment that brings personalities and palates together. While tapas in Spain are traditionally enjoyed as an appetizer, Salazar and chef Ever Y. Paz have introduced a presentational style in which small plates comprise the meal. Multiple smaller dishes provide a comfortable medium for experimentation—diners order a few plates with familiar ingredients and combinations, then branch out to intriguing new flavors. “Come for the wonderful food, stay for the exciting music and live entertainment.” This is Salazar’s mantra for El Farol, and throughout his tenure he has endeavored to create a cultural centerpiece that begins with the flavors of Spain and extends to its music and dance. With the debut of the new back patio, El Farol features a spectacular platform for presenting the passionate dance of Yjastros: The American Flamenco Repertory Company. Salazar calls this his “cafe society,” and has extended the entertainment to nightly offerings of Latin, world music, jazz, blues jams, R&B, gospel, and soul. Ultimately he would like to move this cultural experience from El Farol to Spain itself, by creating small private tours of Spanish vineyards, restaurants, and flamenco hubs. More than just a restaurant, El Farol is truly an experience, a destination, an entire night’s celebration, where the key ingredient of inspiration is pasión. Open Mondays through Saturdays, 11 a.m. to midnight Sundays till 11 p.m.
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Fall 2013–Spring 2014 Trend
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