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PHOTOS by Stephen Lang
Ristra
R
ings as the Black Mediterranean einvention is at Mussels, seasoned with an the heart of lastinnovative blending of chipoing success. This tle, mint, and aromatics. Here year Chef Xavier Grenet fuses passion with clasGrenet, Ristra’s reigning sic technique to create modern chef for more than 14 years, interpretations of iconically is expected to assume ownerFrench dishes. And as modern ship of the French restaurant diners have come to expect, the sometime in the fall of 2013. Southwestern landscape has In partnership with his wife, a presence on the plate, with Nathalie Bonnard, who will entrées inflected by the local terassume the front-of-house roir—the chiles, herbs, and prolaurels, Grenet looks forward duce that distinguish the high to infusing new energy into a desert palate of Santa Fe. Take favorite that has warmed the the piñon sage brioche pudding hearts of locals for more than that accompanies the Natural a decade. Pork Rack, a fine example of Santa Fe’s culinary landGrenet’s blending of French scape impresses with its heritage and local seasoning. scope and idiosyncratic variaOn entering Ristra, guests tion—from small, authentic are greeted by the gracetaquerias to boisterous New ful curves of the bar, where Mexican family-style fare a bistro-style menu features to elegant and poised fine small plates, cocktails, and dining. The latter is Ristra’s a curated selection of wines. lingua franca: classic French Here, choices range from the cuisine, thoughtfully plated defining Crispy Duck Leg Conand presented in a warm fit, nuanced New Mexican with environment accented by Cantal green creamer potatoes contemporary, contemplative and green peppercorn sauce, to artwork courtesy of the Zane the thoroughly American Ristra Bennett Gallery. burger. The burger’s popularity A French native, Grenet can be attributed to several learned the intricacies of Spice Duck Breast with turnip gratin, fried kale, and raspberry sauce. factors: a perfectly charbroiled his culinary heritage in the Harris Ranch Natural Angus time-honored tradition of patty, or such additions as blue or Emmental cheese or green chile. Ferrandi, the French School of Culinary Arts in Paris. Upon graduation, his education evolved under the tutelage of preeminent master But for Chef Grenet, the secret lies in the bun, an almost ciabatta-like chef Joël Robuchon. In the Paris kitchen of Robuchon’s Jamin, an roll from Los Angeles’ famed La Brea Bakery that is uniquely suited to partnering a juicy burger. exclusive, Michelin two-star restaurant, Grenet learned the essential In the future, Grenet looks forward to expanding the repelements of fine French dining. To create food at this level night after night demands “la rigueur,” a ertoire, developing more Southwestern regional dishes with a disciplined doctrine of organization, precision, and clarity of vision that classic French accent. It’s a recipe for success that sounds like both evolving and upholding the fine-dining tradition at Ristra. emphasizes the central ingredient of a dish absolutely. As Grenet puts it, that element—whether a filet of wild salmon or tenderloin of elk—must be “100 percent on the plate.” From there, the seasoning becomes the Lunch Tuesdays through Saturdays, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. means through which that essential flavor is expressed. Grenet is careful Dinner daily, 5:30 p.m. to closing to elaborate that the seasoning must not overpower the dish, but rather 548 Agua Fria | 505.982.8608 | ristrasantafe.com enhance and complement its key flavors. At Ristra, this attention to detail is evidenced by such signature offer-
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