Travel in Taiwan (No.40, 2010 7/8)

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No. 40, 2010

OUTDOOR ACTION

Rock-Climbing at Longdong Sea-Kayaking at the North Coast Paragliding in Taitung

GHOST FESTIVAL IN KEELUNG HAKKA FOOD IN HSINCHU Meeting a True Kungfu Master New Tourist Bus Routes in Yilan

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香格里拉農場-英文刊7-8月0624.pdf 2010/6/24 4:16:28 pm

A vacation resort offering something different every time you visit We have any scenery your heart might desire Whether you come in spring, summer, autumn or winter We will always present you with the most sincere and thoughtful service

香格里拉休閒農場

SHANGRILA LEISURE

FARM Our farm is located on Mt. Dayuan about 250 meters above the sea level. Here you can enjoy the lush green of the mountains, grand views, and a rich ecological environment. Among the original “residents” of the farm are the Moltrechtis green tree frog, the Latouche's frog, and the Swinhoe's frog as well as butterflies of the Papilioninae family who are attracted by the farm’s citrus fruit trees. Over the past six years we have been successfully nurturing fireflies at the farm. During nights when the moon shines brightly, large numbers of these light bugs can be seen on the mountain creating marvelous scenes.

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The farm’s most special feature is the cultural space in front of the temple. Every evening visitors can take part in activities such as spinning tops, glove puppet theater, lifting bottles with fishing rods, releasing paper lanterns into the sky, and making glutinous rice balls. Here you can learn about the traditional farm life in Taiwan while having a lot of fun.

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The farm offers accommodation and has a restaurant serving up a rich buffet and set menus with a strong countryside flavor. You can also enjoy a cup of coffee in the open-air café. One-day and two-day packages include activities such as picking fruit, making objects using straw, painting T-shirts with natural dyes, and branding wood etc. There are myriad things to do and see for visitors during a stay at the farm.

Add: 168, Meishan Rd., Dajin Village, Dongshan Township, Yilan County (宜蘭縣冬山鄉大進村梅山路168號) Tel: +886-3- 9511456 Fax: +886-3-9515222 Website: www.shangrilas.com.tw GPS position: N: 24°37'55.8", E: 121°43'42.8"

Publisher's Note

Welcome to Taiwan!

Dear Traveler,

Outdoor Action Keelung Ghost Festival Visiting a Kungfu Master Bus Tours in Yilan

Once in a while we all want to do something different for a change, something exciting, something we have never done before. This is especially true when planning our next vacation. We think of exotic places, stunning scenery, thrilling activities, and leaving life’s humdrum everyday routines far, far behind. In this issue of Travel in Taiwan we show you three adventurous ways to realize your dream of a decidedly out-of-the-ordinary holiday.

First we head to a place called Longdong (“Dragon Cave”) on the northeast coast, which is Taiwan’s premier rock-climbing site. Accompanied by the sound of waves crashing against the rocks below, here you can test your physical limits and challenge your fear of heights on numerous climbing routes, ranging in difficulty from simple and short to extremely difficult to sheer “impossible.”

An hour’s car ride along the coast to the northwest from Longdong is the town of Wanli, where we change into waterproof gear and squeeze ourselves into streamlined kayaks. Sea kayaking following the coast is an amazing way to see our beautiful island from a different perspective. Not many tourists have the chance to see the famed bizarre rocks of Yeliu from water level.

For yet another way to take in the breathtaking scenery of mountains and sea from a different perspective we take to the skies in southeastern Taiwan.

Here tourists can go on tandem paragliding f lights safely strapped to a professional flight instructor. All you need to do is relax and watch the grand tableaux unfold below you.

After completing our outdoor adventures, we turn our attention to the mysterious happenings during Keelung's annual Ghost Festival. The seventh month of the lunar calendar is the time when the “good brethren” of the underworld are said to wander among the living. In order to “feed” those “hungry souls” generous sacrificial offerings are made during the festival at the city’s temples, with numerous other lively activities also organized.

The number of self-guided travelers touring Taiwan and relying on public transport is steadily increasing. With these travelers in mind, the Tourism Bureau has recently established a number of new bus routes (and plans to add more in the near future) that connect scenic spots and other places of interest to major bus and railway stations. In this issue we sample two of these bus services in Yilan County, visiting waterfalls, lush forests, hot springs, a center for traditional arts, and a night market.

On the following pages you will also read about hotels/motels featuring unique interior design, a venerated kungfu master who once trained with Bruce Lee, Hakka culinary specialties in Hsinchu County, and hiking experiences in Taiwan’s mountains.

On behalf of the Tourism Bureau, I wish you a fun-filled time in sunny Taiwan!

Janice Seh-Jen Lai Director General Tourism Bureau, MOTC, R.O.C.

Travel in Taiwan July • August 2010

1

PUBLISHER EDITING CONSULTANTS

Janice Seh-Jen Lai David W. J. Hsieh, Chao-Yen Wu

PUBLISHING ORGANIZATION Tourism Bureau, Ministry of Transportation and Communications ADDRESS 9F, 290 Zhongxiao E. Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei, 104, Taiwan Tel: 886-2-2717-3737 Fax: 886-2-2771-7036 E-mail: tbroc@tbroc.gov.tw Website: http://taiwan.net.tw PRODUCER , Vision Int l Publ. Co., Ltd. ADDRESS Rm. 5, 10F, 2 Fuxing N. Rd., Taipei, 104 Taiwan Tel: 886-2-2711-5403 Fax: 886-2-2721-2790 E-mail: vision@tit.com.tw

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台 灣 觀 光 雙 月 刊 Travel in Taiwan Bimonthly July / August Issue, 2010 http://www.tit.com.tw/vision/index.htm Copyright c 2010 Tourism Bureau.

All rights reserved.

Reproduction in any form without written permission is prohibited.

ISSN:18177964

GPN:2009305475

200 NTD

CONTENTS COVER STORY Cliff-Climbing at the Northeast Coast Longdong is Taiwan’s premier rockclimbing area attracting beginners and pros alike Photo by Matt Robertson

JULY / AUGUST 2010 1

Publisher�s Note

4

Culture & Art

6

Calendar of Events

8

What�s Happening in Taiwan

FOOD 38

TOUCHED BY TAIWAN

FEATURE 10

Taiwan Rocks!

— Adrenalin-Filled Climbing at Taiwan’s Premier Rock-Climbing Site

14

Following the Tide — Sea Kayaking along the North Coast

18

Getting High — An Unforgettable Paragliding Experience in Taitung

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46

10 NEW PERSPECTIVES 28

Good Kung Fu — Meeting Wing Chun Master Lo Man Kam

FESTIVAL 50

Finding an Escape in Paradise — The Art of Choosing a Hotel in Taipei

A Wonderful World Out There — Hiking and Outdoor Fun in the Mountains of Taiwan

MY LOCAL FRIENDS

PLACES TO STAY 22

Simple Delights — Meeting the Hakkas and Sampling their Unique Cuisine

Yilan’s Secrets Revealed!

— Using a New Mini-Bus Service in Northeast Taiwan

Here Come the Good Brethren — Peace, Reconciliation and a Good Party

HOTEL INFORMATION 54

Hotels of Taiwan

HEALTH TOURISM 33

In Search of Wellbeing — Places to Refresh Your Body and Mind

34

In Love with the “Real Taiwan” — A Dutchman Follows in the

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PEOPLE

42

Steps of His Ancestors

SHOPPING 36

Often Simple, Always Meaningful — Unique Works of Art Made by Taiwan’s Indigenous Peoples

46 Travel in Taiwan July • August 2010

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CULTURE & ART

CULTURE & ART Taiwan has a very diverse cultural scene, with art venues ranging from international-caliber concert halls and theaters, where internationally-acclaimed stars regularly perform, to make-shift stages on temple plazas where you can witness Taiwanese opera. Among Taiwan’s museums are the world-famous National Palace Museum as well as many museums specializing in different art forms and aspects of Taiwanese culture. Here is a brief selection of upcoming happenings. For more infomation, please visit the websites of the listed venues.

National Palace Museum

National Concert Hall

The Sound of Many Birds, the Moving Nature of Each: Bian Wenjin’s "Three Friends and a Hundred Birds"

Taipei International Choral Festival

百禽百聲音 一動一情性 邊文進三友百禽特展 July 1 ~ September 25

Held once every two years by the Taipei Philharmonic Foundation, the Taipei International Choral Festival brings together outstanding choirs from Taiwan and around the world. Invited this year are Rajaton from Finland, Yoon Hak Won Chorale from Korea, the Bratislava Boys’ Choir from Slovakia, the Gustaf Sjökvist Chamber Choir from Sweden, and the University of Louisville Cardinal Singers from the USA. The concerts this summer will not only present excellent choir music rarely heard in Taiwan, but also create a rich multicultural atmosphere.

Bian Wenjin was an important court painter of bird-and-flower subjects during the early Ming Dynasty (1368 ~ 1644). Perhaps his most representative painting is “Three Friends and a Hundred Birds,” painted with ink and color on silk in 1413. A large number of birds of different types are depicted, some sitting on the branches of pine, bamboo, and plum trees, others on rocks and on the ground. The painting is rich in auspicious symbols. The “Three Friends of Winter,” represented by pine, bamboo, and plum blossoms, symbolize the integrity of a gentleman who does not wither under adversity. The word for “bamboo” in Chinese is also a homonym for “blessing,” and the pine also symbolizes longevity, making this work a birthday blessing for longevity. This and other nature paintings by Bian Wenjin can be seen at the National Palace Museum until late September.

Taipei Fine Arts Museum

Jean-Paul Gaultier/Regine Chopinot – Le Défilé-Gallery 高堤耶與蕭畢諾 舞台服裝展 May 29 ~ August 15 This exhibition presents the results of a collaboration between fashion designer Jean-Paul Gaultier and choreographer Régine Chopinot.

Eighty costumes, on loan from the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris and the National Theatre Costume Center in Moulins, are on display in this exhibition, which also includes drawings, photographs, and videos.

The costumes were designed by Jean-Paul Gaultier for Chopinot’s company for a series of ballet performances from 1983 to 1994.

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July• August 2010

Travel in Taiwan

台北國際合唱音樂節 July 25 ~ August 1

National Theater

Unfading Love – Tang Mei Yun Taiwanese Opera Company 唐美雲歌仔戲團2010年度大戲 蝴蝶之戀 July 29 ~ August 7 If you have seen Peking Opera and you want to find out how Taiwanese Opera compares to it, the performances by Tang Mei Yun Taiwanese Opera Company present you a great opportunity. Tang Meiyun, the daughter of legendary Taiwanese Opera performer Chiang Wu-tung, is today one of the best-known actresses of this home-grown style. Growing up in the world of Taiwanese Opera, she long resisted having anything to do with the theater, and her father also didn’t want her to experience the hardships that go with being a stage performer. All this suddenly changed when she was 15 and was asked by her parents to perform because of a shortage of actors in their troupe. Since then she’s performed for over 30 years, appearing mostly on outdoor makeshift stages in front of local temples. In 1998 she founded her own troupe.

National Concert Hall

Venues

Taipei Eye（ 臺北戲棚 ） Add: 113 Zhongshan N. Rd., Sec. 2, Taipei City

Summer Jazz 夏日爵士派對 August 27 ~ September 10 Award-winning jazz saxophonist Paquito D'Rivera from Cuba, who has received a Grammy both forr Best Jazz Album and Best Classical Album, and d Jazz pianist Chucho Valdes will be two heavyweights on hand for this year’ss Summer Jazz party. Also performing will be Joshua Redman dman from the United States who is one of the he most celebrated jazz artists to have emerged in the nineties, and last but not least will be jazz pianist Eliane Elias from Brazil, presenting purist rist bossa nova jazz with a soft and romantic singing style.

Pier-2 Art Center

Shigeo Fukuda Design Exhibition in Kaohsiung 錯視．幻影 福田繁雄 設計典藏展 May 20 ~ August 1 This exhibition shows works by famous sculptor, graphic artist, and poster designer Shigeo Fukuda, who passed away last year.

Fukuda was a master of illusion, and his creations are fun to observe, playing tricks with your mind. While his two-dimensional works can be seen differently by just shifting your focus to different parts of an image (e.g. from black to white), he went a step further with his three-dimensional sculptures. Here the spectator can walk around an object, the look of which miraculously changes. Others among his created objects become meaningful only when seen at a certain angle using a mirror.

Definitely an exhibition not to miss!

Taipei Eye

( 台北市中山北 路二 段 113 號 )

Taipei Taipei Zhongshan Hall Plaza

Tel: (02) 2568-2677 www.taipeieye.com Nearest MRT Station: Taipei City Hall

Taipei Fine Arts Museum

（ 台北中山堂廣場 ）

Add: 98, Yanping S. Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市延平南 路 9 8 號 )

（ 台北市立美術館 ）

Add: 181 Zhongshan N. Rd., Sec. 3, Taipei City

Nearest MRT Station: Ximen

( 台北市中山北 路 3 段 181 號 )

Taipei International Convention Center （ 台北國際會議中心 ）

Add: 1, Xinyi Rd., Sec.5, Taipei City ( 台北市信義 路五段 1 號 )

Tel: (02) 2725-5200, ext. 3517, 3518 www.ticc.com.tw/ Nearest MRT Station: Taipei City Hall

National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall（ 國立中正紀念堂 ） Add: 21 Zhongshan S. Rd., Taipei City

Tel: (02) 2595-7656 www.tfam.museum Nearest MRT Station: Yuanshan

Museum of Contemporary Art Taipei（ 台北當代藝術館 ） Add: 39 Chang-an W. Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市長 安 西 路 3 9 號 )

Tel: (02) 2552-3720 www.mocataipei.org.tw Nearest MRT Station: Zhongshan

( 台北市中山南 路 21 號 )

Tel: (02) 2343-1100~3 www.cksmh.gov.tw Nearest MRT Station: CKS Memorial Hall

National Concert Hall（國家音樂聽）; National Theater （國家戲劇院 ） Add: 21-1 Zhongshan S. Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市中山南 路 21-1 號 )

Tel: (02) 3393-9888 www.ntch.edu.tw Nearest MRT Station: CKS Memorial Hall

National Museum of History （ 國立歷史博物館 ）

Taichung Taichung Zhongshan Hall（ 台中中山堂） Add: 98 Xueshi Rd., Taichung City ( 台中市學士路 9 8 號 )

Tel: (04) 2230-3100 www.tccgc.gov.tw

National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts（ 國立台灣美術館 ） Add: 2 Wuquan W. Rd., Sec. 1, Taichung City ( 台中市五權 西 路 一段 2 號 )

Tel: (04) 2372-3552 www.tmoa.gov.tw

Add: 49 Nanhai Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市 南海路 4 9 號 )

Tel: (02) 2361-0270 www.nmh.gov.tw Nearest MRT Station: CKS Memorial Hall

National Palace Museum （ 國立故宮博物院 ）

Add: 221 Zhishan Rd., Sec. 2, Taipei City ( 台北市至 善路 2 段 2 21 號 )

Tel: (02) 2881-2021 www.npm.gov.tw Nearest MRT Station: Shilin

Tainan Tainan City Cultural Center （ 台南市立文化中心 ）

Add: 332 Zhonghua E. Rd., Sec. 3, Tainan City ( 台南 市中華東 路 3 段 332 號 )

Tel: (06) 269-2864 www.tmcc.gov.tw

Kaohsiung

National Taiwan Museum （ 國立臺灣博物館 ）

Kaohsiung City Chungcheng Cultural Center（ 高雄市立中正文化中心）

Songs and Dances of the Taiwanese Aboriginals & Joys of Peking Opera

Add: 2 Xiangyang Rd., Taipei City Tel: (02) 2382-2566 www.ntm.gov.tw Nearest MRT Station: NTU Hospital

台灣原住民歌舞 & 京劇主題秀 July 16 ~ August 21

Tel: (07) 222-5136 ext. 8908, 8909, 8910 www.khcc.gov.tw (Chinese only) Nearest KMRT Station: Cultural Center

Novel Hall（ 新舞臺 ）

Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts（ 高雄市立美術館 ）

Taipei Eye is a truly unique venue for experiencing Chinese performing arts at their exotic colorful best. The program, presented each Friday and Saturday evening, often features two parts: a stage performance by members of Taiwan’s indigenous tribes and a traditional Chinese (“Peking”) Opera show.

In July and August audience members will be invited to enjoy the elegant, lively, and charming singing and dancing of the Amis, and during the second part a scene from the Peking Opera “The Legend of the White Snake” will be presented. Acrobatic moves, intense fighting scenes, and rhythmic choreography will surely keep all spectators on the edge of their seats.

( 台北市 襄 陽 路二號 )

Add: 67 Wufu 1st Rd., Kaohsiung City ( 高 雄 市五福 一路 67 號 )

Add: 3 Songshou Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市松 壽路 3 號 )

Add: 80 Meishuguan Rd., Kaohsiung City

Tel: (02) 2722-4302 www.novelhall.org.tw Nearest MRT Station: Taipei City Hall

( 高 雄 市美 術館 路 8 0 號 )

National Dr. Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall （ 國立國父紀念館 ）

Tel: (07) 555-0331 www.kmfa.gov.tw Nearest KMRT Station: Aozihdi Station

Kaohsiung Museum of History （ 高雄市立歷史博物館 ）

Add: 505 Ren-ai Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City ( 台北市仁愛 路 四 段 5 0 5 號 )

Tel: (02) 2758-8008 www.yatsen.gov.tw/english Nearest MRT Station: Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall

Taipei Arena（ 台北小巨蛋 ） Add: 2 Nanjing E. Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City ( 台北市 南 京 東 路 4 段 2 號 )

Tel: (02) 2577-3500 www.taipeiarena.com.tw Nearest MRT Station: Nanjing E. Rd.

Add: 272 Zhongzheng 4th Rd., Kaohsiung City ( 高 雄 市中正四 路 27 2 號 )

Tel: (07) 531-2560 http://w5.kcg.gov.tw/khm/index.asp Nearest KMRT Station: City Council

Pier-2 Art Center（ 駁二藝術特區 ） Add: 1 Dayong Rd., Yancheng District, Kaohsiung City( 高雄市鹽埕區大勇路 1 號 ) Tel: (07) 521-4899 pier-2.khcc.gov.tw

Travel in Taiwan

July • August 2010

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2010

CALENDAR OF EVENTS JUN 16 ~ JUL 12

Taipei Film Festival (台北電影節)

The Taipei Film Festival was first staged in 1998 and has since become a key annual event for Taiwan's film industry.

In its City Vision section, the festival this year screens films focusing on Rio de Janeiro. The festival is also a great opportunity to watch films by both established and talented young Chinese filmmakers.

Locations: Zhongshan Hall, The Red House, Shin Kong Cineplex, and Movie Theme Park in Taipei (台北市中山堂 西門紅樓 新光影城及電影主題公園) Website: www.taipeiff.tw Tel: (02) 2528-9580 ext. 164

JUN 19 ~ JUL 31

Taoyuan County Lalashan Peach Season Festival (桃園縣拉拉山水蜜桃季)

June and July are harvest season for peaches at Lalashan, an area deep in the mountains of Taoyuan County. Picking the sweet and juicy fruits at the local orchards is a popular activity, drawing many visitors to this relatively remote part of Taiwan.

During the annual Peach Season Festival many other local attractions will be highlighted as well.

Location: Lalashan, Taoyuan County (桃園縣拉拉山) Website: travel-taoyuan.tycg.gov.tw Tel: (03) 332-2101 ext. 6203

JUL 3 ~ AUG 15

Yilan International Children's Folklore & Folkgame Festival ( 宜蘭國際童玩藝術節)

After a hiatus of two years, the Int’l Children’s Folklore & Folkgame Festival in Yilan is back! Hugely popular with kids from around Taiwan and abroad as a huge playground during the summer months, the festival will be held at the same venue as before, the Dongshan River Water Park.

Location: Dongshan River Water Park, Yilan County (宜蘭縣冬山河親水公園) Website: www.folkgame.org.tw Tel: (03) 932-2440 ext. 372-3

JUL 1 ~ AUG 31

Chiayi County Dongshi Summer Festival (嘉義縣東石海之夏祭)

Dongshi is a fishing harbor in the southwestern Taiwan county of Chiayi. During the summer visitors from near and far flock to the town to indulge in fresh seafood and take in the stunning sunsets over the sea. During the festival you can also enjoy a rich cultural program that includes music performances and introductions to elements of local history and local industries.

Location: Fisherman’s Pier, Dongshi, Chiayi County (嘉義縣東石漁人碼頭) Website: www.swcoast-nsa.gov.tw Tel: (06) 786-1000

JUL 1 ~ AUG 8

Nantou Railway Festival (南投火車好多節)

The Jiji Branch Railway Line in central Taiwan’s Nantou County is a very popular tourist train ride through verdant countryside with stops at small towns and villages. During July and August the county government organizes a variety of activities for the enjoyment of railway enthusiasts.

Locations: Mingjian, Jiji, and Shuili in Nantou County (南投縣名間 集集 水里) Website: www.nantou.gov.tw Tel: (049) 222-2106

JUL 1 ~ OCT 31

Taiwan Ceramics Biennale (臺灣國際陶藝雙年展)

First staged in 2004, the Taiwan Ceramics Biennale has become one of the world’s major ceramic-art exhibitions.

Hundreds of artists from Taiwan and abroad sign up to enter their creations in a contest to determine the most outstanding pieces, which will then be shown at Yingge’s Ceramics Museum.

Location: Yingge Ceramics Museum (鶯歌陶瓷博物館) Website: www.ceramics.tpc.gov.tw/2010TCB Tel: (02) 2499-1115

JulyAugustSeptember

JUL 9 ~ JUL 11

Hohaiyan Rock Festival (貢寮國際海洋音樂祭)

Once a year Fulong Beach on the northeast coast is the venue for a great open-air music festival. The festival attracts thousands of revelers to the fine-sand beach to listen to local rock bands and play by and in the water.

Location: Fulong Beach, Gongliao Township, Taipei County (台北縣貢寮鄉福隆海水浴場) Website: www.necoast-nsa.gov.tw

JUL 1 ~ AUG 31

Taipei Water Festival (臺北親水節) This festival, held at the height of summer every year, has a variety of water-based activities as well as singing, dancing, and special-skill performances, providing fun for the whole family. The event presents myriad ways to wash away the stifling summer heat.

Location: Taipei Water Park (台北市自來水園區) Website: 2010ali-firefly.com.tw Tel: (02) 8369-5091

Tel: (02) 2499-1115

JUN 1 ~ AUG 31

Matsu Tern-Watching Festival (馬祖賞鷗季)

AUG 28 ~ SEP 31

Penghu Seafood Carnival (澎湖菊島海鮮節)

The Chinese Crested Tern was thought to be extinct for years before being rediscovered on the islands of Matsu in 2000. To protect the bird, the National Matsu Nature Reserve for Terns was established, and each year numerous nature-preservation and eco-tour activities are organized during the bird’s breeding season.

The islands of Penghu are an excellent destination for travelers with an appetite for fresh seafood. During the annual Seafood Carnival visitors are presented not only with many special offers for seafood dining but also with activities such as going on fishing trips and touring the islands’ old and scenic fishing villages.

Location: Matsu Islands Tern Refuge (馬祖燕鷗保護區) Website:www.matsu-nsa.gov.tw Tel: (08) 362-5631 ext. 32

Location: Tourist spots and communities in Penghu (澎湖各景點及社區) Website: www.penghu.gov.tw

JUL 29 ~ AUG 31

Hsinchu County Yimin Cultural Festival (新竹縣義民文化祭)

During the month-long Yimin Festival, the Hakka people living in northwestern Taiwan commemorate their brave and righteous ancestors. The highlight of the festival is the elaborate sacrificial offerings made to the ancestors, most notably the “divine pigs,” which are fattened to huge sizes and put on display.

Location: Fangliao Baozhong Yimin Temple (枋寮褒忠義民廟) Website: www.hchcc.gov.tw Tel: (03) 551-0201 ext. 211

UNTIL SEP 26

Guandu Outdoor Sculpture Festival (關渡國際裝置藝術節)

“Nature, Art, and Life” is the theme of six large sculptures made by six foreign artists and exhibited at Taipei’s Guandu Nature Park. The pieces merge with the landscape and visitors are allowed to touch them. The sculptures are all made using materials acquired on site at the wetlands park.

Location: Guandu Nature Park (關渡自然公園); 55 Guandu Rd., Taipei City (台北市關渡路55號) Website: www.2010guandu.url.tw Tel: (02) 2858-7417 ext. 210 ~ 214

Tel: (06) 926-2620

TRAVEL NEWS

WHAT’S HAPPENING in

TAIWAN

Special Sun Moon Lake Travel Vouchers Visitors to Sun Moon Lake can now make use of a special offer, two vouchers for use of different means of transport to tour Sun Moon Lake. The first voucher is priced NT$299 and includes one ticket for the Sun Moon Lake Ropeway, one yacht ticket (Shuishe-Ita shao), one 1-day round-the-lake bus ticket, and coupons for bicycle and electric-bike rental. The second voucher (NT$899) includes all of the aforementioned items plus a return bus ticket from Taichung to Sun Moon Lake and a ticket to the nearby Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village, where the ropeway ends. More info can be found at www.agan.com.tw/sunmoonlakepass/eticket/eticket.html.

The Chiayi Forest District Office recently finished the construction of a museum introducing the rich alpine flora of the Alishan area in Chiayi County. The museum is located within the Alishan National Forest Recreation Area and can be reached by taking the Zhushan Branch Railway Line. For more info on Alishan, visit www.ali-nsa.net.

Squid Fishing in Keelung From June to August, squid-fishing at night off the coast of Keelung is a popular activity. For more info on boat tours, and to sign up, call the organizer, New Vision, at (02) 2427-8418 or visit www.newvision168.com.tw.

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Photo Contests Penghu and Alishan are unusually photogenic places.

If you have done some shooting at these locations or are planning to do so this summer, note that both the Penghu National Scenic Area and Alishan NSA administrations are now staging photo contests, inviting photographers to submit their works before October 31. The Penghu administration will select the best 100 photos and reward each photographer with NT$2,000. For the Alishan contest, photographers of the best 200 photos will receive cash prizes, with the top finisher taking home NT$30,000. For more info, visit www.penghu-nsa.gov.tw and www.ali-nsa.net.

Photos / Ting-Wei Gu, Fu-Ren Huang, Vision Int'l, Sun Moon Lake NSA Admin

Alpine Plant Museum

New Taipei-Shanghai Flight Route

Railway Nostalgia An old railway line south of the town of Sanyi in Miaoli County has been reopened for tourist trains this year. During July and August railway enthusiasts have the chance to take a ride on a train powered by an old, refurbished CK124 steam locomotive.

The puffing engine, old railway stations, and enchanting scenery present myriad photo ops. More info is available at www.art-fruit.com.tw/festival/railway. html (Chinese).

Traveling between Taipei and Shanghai has become much faster since June 14, when a new flight route connecting Taipei International Airport (Taipei Songshan Airport) and Shanghai Hongqiao Int’l Airport was opened.

Three carriers from Taiwan and three from mainland China offer a total of 28 flights each week. With both airports located significantly closer to their respective cities than the other closest international airports used for crossstrait flights, travelers save more than one hour in travel time using this new route. Find out more about the flights at www.tsa.gov.tw.

New Evergreen Hotel in Yilan Earlier this year, Evergreen International Hotels added a new gem to its group of elegant and refined hotels located in Taiwan and abroad. The Evergreen Resort Hotel (Jiaosi), situated in the hot-spring town of Jiaoxi in Yilan County, is the corporation’s first hotspring resort hotel. Designers have created various types of luxurious, European-style suites that all have their own hot-spring pools. For more info about Evergreen Hotels, visit www.evergreen-hotels.com

50% Off at North Coast’s Hot Springs

Enticing Discounts in Wulai

To revive business at the north coast towns of Jinshan and Wanli after a month-long close-off of the Second Northern Freeway 3 due to a massive landslide, hot-spring resort operators in the area have cut their prices for hotspring bathing, overnight stays, and dining by up to 50%. This is great value for the unique north coast hot-spring bathing experience, quite likely never to be seen again!

As part of the 2010 Wulai Magao Travel Festival this summer, more than 30 businesses in Wulai, a small town south of Taipei famous for indigenous culture and hot-spring bathing, are offering large discounts on their services.

Accommodation, dining, and hotspring bathing can be enjoyed for up to 50% off standard prices until the end of September.

FEATURE

The sand stone cliffs at Longdong present rock-climbers with all sorts of challenges

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Taiwan Rocks!

Longdong

Adrenalin-Filled Climbing at Taiwan’s Premier Rock-Climbing Site

Rack your gear and pack your bags, because the Longdong cliffs, located on Taiwan's northeast coast, are calling climbers and adventurers worldwide. Longdong, which means “dragon cave” in Chinese, is Taiwan's premier crag and ranks among the top seaside-climbing spots in the world. With over 500 routes along a 2-km stretch of Pacific coastline, Longdong offers excellent sport and traditional climbing up to 80 meters that ranges in grade from 5.4 for beginners to 5.14a for high-performance climbers.

By Eric Lambert

Photo / Emma Huang

I

t was 9:10 am on a springtime Saturday morning as I rushed toward Taipei West Bus Station Terminal A with my heavy bag of gear.

I arrived just in time to meet a couple of climbing buddies and catch a bus to Longdong at 9:20 am. We used the hour-and-a-half bus ride to plan some climbs with our guidebook, Longdong Trad Climbs, authored by one of the climbing community’s best friends, Matt Robertson (climbstone.com).

We decided to start at an area known as School Gate, which is the first crag you get to when walking in from the north. After a short walk along a narrow road and some simple rock-hopping we reached it. For an easy warm-up with a rewarding view at the end, we started with a 5.5 trad climb called Staircase.

The trad climbing, which requires climbers to place their own gear in the cracks of the rock for protection, is excellent at Longdong. The blocky features of the solid sandstone create a great mix of horizontal and vertical cracks, and the 25-meter climb up Staircase offered more than enough places to fit protective gear.

From my perch at the top, I set up an anchor and belayed my partner as he followed my line and cleaned out the gear from the rocks. We took a moment to marvel at the vast Pacific Ocean, then agreed to continue south to the area known as Music Hall, where some challenging sport climbing awaited.

“Sport climbing” refers to routes that have bolts secured into the rock.

The climber just has to attach one end of a quickdraw (a carabiner at each end of a nylon sling) to the bolt, and the other end to his rope, for protection as he climbs up. Compared to trad climbing, where you’d need an additional rack of protective gear, the sport climbs at Longdong can be done with less equipment. Still, it’s suggested you have a 60-meter rope, 10 to 15 quickdraws, extra slings, and a few locking carabiners in addition to the essential belay device, climbing shoes, and harness. The necessary gear and Matt Robertson’s new guidebook, “Rock Climbing Taiwan,” can be bought from mountaineering-supply shops on Zhongshan North Road near Taipei Railway Station.

Climbing gear can be expensive when buying it all at once, so if you’re new to the sport it might be worth joining an organized group trip to Longdong. Trips are usually arranged for weekends by some of the Taipei climbing gyms such as Y17 and IDEA Rock Climbing Center. They cost around NT$2,000 per day including gear, and the guides show you around and give you a safe belay whenever required. hen we arrived Music Hall was full of stoked climbers, including some of our friends, some legendary Longdong climbers, and even a lone business traveler who had no problem finding partners since he had wisely brought his shoes, harness, and belay device. The route we wanted, F-Fall, was just then being climbed, so we took the opportunity to get on a classic climb called Wedding Route, where two Taiwanese climbers once actually “tied the knot.”

Wedding Route is a 25-meter sport climb that is rated 5.7. Most beginners climb from 5.2 to 5.8 and intermediate climbers from 5.9 to 5.11d, and the world’s top climbers have pushed the top

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FEATURE rating to 5.15b by finding and climbing insanely difficult routes. Thankfully Wedding Route did not fall into the latter category, but it still offered lots of excitement and fun.

My partner wanted to lead the climb, meaning he would climb up first and attach the quickdraws to the bolts in the rock and his rope. I belayed him so that in case of a fall I could stop the rope in my belay device. I paid close attention to my partner as he scaled the vertical wall, and fed rope out as he went higher. After he reached the top he secured himself to a pair of bolts and set up an anchor from which others would be able to run their ropes. This is called “top-roping,” good for beginners because the ropeand-anchor setup at the top ensures that a fall will be shorter, softer, and more secure.

After lowering my partner I noticed that F-Fall was free, so I pulled my rope and left my quickdraws on the wall for others to use. F-Fall also had quickdraws still on the bolts, so I asked the climber nearby if it was OK to use them. Sure enough it was. I’d climbed this 18-meter 5.11a route before, but not “cleanly,” meaning I had fallen while climbing or had been obliged to take a rest and hang on to the rope. As I tied into the rope my body tingled with adrenaline as my mind tried to focus on the holds and body movements of the upcoming climb.

My partner, sensing my mood, jokingly asked me the age-old question: Why do we climb? I smiled and shook my head. Actually, there are a lot of things that draw me to climbing, such as my love of the outdoors, the great exercise, the challenge it presents both physically and mentally – and then there’s that feeling of being totally in the moment, when you’ve broken through the fear and adrenaline into a consciousness of clarity and focus.

As usual, we checked each other's knots and belay device and I searched the rock for any nubs or irregularities where I could put my feet. Using a pair of fingertip holds called crimpers, I set my feet up high, stepped up, and quickly 12 July• August 2010

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sunk my hand into a higher crack for a much more secure hold. After I brought my other foot up to a decent hold I was able to reach the first quickdraw and clip my rope in for protection. The next ten meters went smoothly as I pulled, pushed, squeezed, and jammed my way up the route to a 15cm-wide horizontal crack – the crux. limbers refer to the hardest part of a climb as the “crux.” Sometimes a crux requires precise balance, sustained power, or a complicated sequence of moves. On F-Fall it was mostly about balance, finger strength, and finding the holds.

I desperately searched the wall for any decent pockets, but could only find a small crimper and a slopey side pull (a vertical handhold that the climber leans away from). Eyeing a nice-looking horizontal finger crack about two meters up, I used what I had and pulled myself up, set my feet, and found myself within arm’s reach of the crack. As I delicately reached up for the crack, however, my balance was thrown off and I went flying through the air for about three meters before the rope and my belayer caught me. I let out a loud scream as if to release the adrenaline that was pumping through my body.

In truth, falling is inevitable for anyone trying to improve their climbing skills. Yet, as anyone would agree, this is the most terrifying part and what leads some people to classify climbers as crazy. So is climbing safe? Simply put, it should be. The inherent danger of rock climbing is taken very seriously by climbers, and safety is always the top priority. If safety is learned and diligently practiced, most climbing risks are comparable to the risk in many other sports.

On my second attempt I fell again, but on my way down I noticed a finger pocket that I hadn't seen before. It was the – until now – hidden key to unlocking the crux, and after finding it I was able to reach the top without further incident, letting out a sigh of relief as I did so. e gathered our gear and continued south to a place

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named Golden Valley, where my partner suggested a high and fun multi-pitch sport climb called Snake Alley. Climbing the two exposed 5.10b pitches, high above the waves crashing against the rocks, was a total rush. By the time we had both made it to the top we only had a few minutes to take in the magnificent views, as dusk was upon us and it was time to rappel back down. We hiked out by way of the Golden Valley Trail to the south entrance of the rock-climbing area where we waited for a bus back to Taipei or Keelung.

With rough hands, pumped forearms, and smiles from ear to ear

“My partner, sensing my mood, jokingly asked me the age-old question: Why do we climb?” we recounted the day’s events on the way back. If there is a recipe for a great day of climbing, we must have included all of the ingredients – a few falls, a few accomplishments, some scary moments with sighs of relief and, most importantly, a bunch of laughs with some good friends.

ENGLISH & CHINESE Golden Valley Golden Valley Trail Keelung Longdong Music Hall School Gate Snake Alley Staircase Wedding Route Zhongshan North Road

黃金谷 黃金谷小徑 基隆 龍洞 音樂廳 校門口 華西街 樓梯 結婚路線 中山北路

Longdong Rock-Climbing Guide "Rock Climbing Taiwan " (台灣龍洞攀岩) by Matt Robertson is a complete guidebook to rock climbing at Longdong. It is fully bilingual (Chinese and English) and contains all the information needed for climbing at Longdong including descriptions of over 600 routes. With hundreds of color photographs, the book presents the beauty of Taiwan's spectacular northeast coast. For more info see www.climbstone.com.

Where to Get Your Gear Close to Taipei Railway Station are a number of stores specializing in equipment for mountaineering, including all the things you could possible need for rock-climbing.

From the MRT Taipei Main Station's Exit 7 follow Zhongxiao W. Rd. (忠孝西路) to the east. Turn left into Zhongshan N. Rd. (中山 北路) and you'll see the stores to your left.

Outlets of American outdoor product company The North Face, Inc. can also be found around Taiwan, check www.

thenorthface.com.tw/thenorthface/base/ taiwan_go.jsp (Chinese) for locations close to you.

Info TAIPEI WEST BUS STATION TERMINAL A 臺北西站A棟

Add: 173 Zhongxiao W. Rd., Sec. 1, Taipei City

(台北市忠孝西路一段173號) Tel: (02) 2383-2783

Website: www.kingbus.com.tw (Chinese) TAIPEI YOUNG PARTY CENTER Y17 臺北市青少年育樂中心

Add: 17, Sec. 1, Renai Rd., Taipei City (臺北市仁 愛路1段17號)

Tel: (02) 2343-2388

Website: www.y17.com.tw (Chinese) IDEA ROCK CLIMBING CENTER IDEA 攀岩館

Add: 100, Lane 39, Shipai Rd., Sec. 1, Taipei City

Photos / Brian W. Soong, Wen-Jen, Fan

(台北市石牌路一段39 巷100 號) Tel: (02) 2828-7660 Website: www.paidea.com.tw/climbing/index. htm

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FEATURE

14 July• August 2010

Kayaks ready for launch on a fine sand beach near Yeliu

Travel in Taiwan

Following the

Tide

Yeliu

Sea Kayaking along the North Coast

Almost everywhere in Taiwan you will find breathtaking scenery, but perhaps the views that leave the deepest impression on visitors are those of the majestic, dramatic coastline. And what better way to take in all the splendor of the most awe-inspiring sections, characterized by picturesque cliffs and bluffs, than from the (somewhat) comfortable seat of a kayak!

By Phil Dawson

Photo / Sunny Su

T

here is a multitude of places and steep cliffs and undercut bluffs are breath away. Lorry laughed when I told to kayak in Taiwan, from calm just a few of the plethora of spectacles him about it, and he then assured me lakes and rivers to fast-flowing to be witnessed here. that safety was his number one priority mountain streams and, of course, and that we wouldn't be going out Golden, sandy beaches, the vast ocean that surrounds this unless it was safe – and he promised island. Being a bit of an adrenaline that the Pacific Ocean would be a lot spectacular reefs, rocks and caves junkie, I decided to choose the latter warmer if, against all odds, we should for my most recent kayak trip, and I artfully shaped by sea-erosion, as indeed tip over. knew exactly where I wanted to go well as steep cliffs and undercut On the day of the trip I woke – the enchanting North Coast and up at 6 am to bright sunshine and Guanyinshan National Scenic Area bluffs, are all to be witnessed here pleasant, refreshing breezes, and set (www.northguan-nsa.gov.tw).

This was to be my first kayak trip off on my motorbike to get to the coast.

The island of Taiwan lies in a on the sea in about ten years, so I was In fact, from Taipei City it is perhaps complex tectonic region, the reason feeling pretty nervous when I met up quicker to drive by car or take the for the unique geological formations with my guide for the fi rst time, Lorry railway to Keelung and then a bus from to be found here. The national scenic Chen of the Taiwan Kayak Association. there to the coast, but for me riding area is a great place to go on a geology He soon put me at ease, however, and over the mountains of Yangmingshan exploration tour. Here you find a set was a fantastic help, both in preparing National Park, on the city’s north side, of terranes that were pushed up when the trip and assisting during the actual on a beautiful Sunday morning was an tectonic plates in the region collided, trip itself. My previous kayaking opportunity not to be missed. It is about thus creating mountains and vast, sheer experience was back in the UK; when an hour from Taipei City to Wanli cliffs that are a prominent feature of I was working as a lifeguard we often Township on the coast, and it’s truly the coastline today. Perhaps the most took kayaks out into the North Sea for an awe-inspiring trip. The road winds amazing thing about this area of Taiwan training. Memories flooded back of through lush green mountains and deep is the incredible diversity of landforms 6-foot waves crashing around me as my valleys peppered with meandering, that exist in such a small area. Golden, craft overturned in the surf, and me and sometimes hurtling, crystal-clear sandy beaches, spectacular reefs, rocks panicking as the ice-cold waters took my streams. When I arrived at Wanli there and caves artfully shaped by sea-erosion,

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FEATURE

Passing the Twin Candlesticks Islet near Jinshan

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when suddenly Steve's radio crackled into life. I heard Lorry's voice excitedly telling everyone to be careful as we navigated around the cape because the swell was a lot bigger there. Adrenaline started to flow through my veins, and within a minute our kayak was being heaved up and down as we rode over the waves towards the other side of the cape. Despite the pummeling we were taking the kayak remained remarkably stable, and I was able to really enjoy the challenge of fighting through the swell.

The kayak cut through the waves with ease, the bow slicing through them and sending the warm, salty water gushing over my face and body.

The kayak cut through the waves with As we reached the ease, the bow slicing through them and other side everyone a sigh of sending the warm, salty water gushing breathed relief; I was beaming over my face and body with joy, my initial apprehension washed away as the waves were breaking over Steve and I were chatting away as me. I couldn't wait for the next cape! we paddled over the calm ocean, and e paddled the kayaks safely I was just starting to relax and enjoy to shore at Yeliu Geopark the sun rays beating down on my arms and joined the excited crowds of while photographing the enchanting photographers and tourists already rock formations around Yeliu Cape, into the kayaks and head to Jinshan further northwest along the coast.

When kayaking in the ocean it is important to pay attention to the tides.

If you try paddling against the tide you are not only increasing the amount of work you need to do, but could be doubling the length of time your trip will take as well. When the tide comes in around Wanli the water will move to the northwest, towards Taiwan’s northernmost tip. Our timing was perfect. We departed during incoming tide and were thus able to take full advantage of the current on our journey north.

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Photos / Phil Dawson, Sunny Su

was just enough time to refuel (gas for my bike, black coffee for me) before going to meet Lorry and the rest of the group at the beach. here were about twenty-five kayaks in our group, a mixture of single and tandem sea kayaks, and we split up into groups of five to make it easier to keep track of everyone. I was to ride in a tandem kayak with my partner for the day, Steve, a very experienced kayaker who introduced his craft and gave me a safety briefing. I put on my life-jacket and dive boots, and covered any exposed areas of skin with layer after layer of sun cream, before getting into the kayak. At only 50cm wide, it was hard to believe how steady it was in the water and how incredibly well-balanced. Not once during the trip did I feel like we would overturn.

The trip started at a nice, relaxed pace as Steve and I, after taking to the water first, waited for the rest of our team to catch up with us. We then discussed the route we were about to take, about 15km of paddling in total broken up into two sections. We decided to paddle to Yeliu Geopark first and, after resting there for a while, get back

exploring this bizarre and intriguing place. Yeliu Cape stretches out 1.7km into the ocean like a giant turtle about to submerge itself. The cape is a fascinating area for geological research, but is also a wonderful place for a layman, like myself, just to look around.

The rocks here contain substantial amounts of limestone, which makes them particularly susceptible to erosion and weathering. As a result the cape is brimming with remarkable features such as natural potholes, rocks shaped like tofu and – most famously – the eye-catching Queen’s Rock, named because of its resemblance to the head of ancient Egypt’s Queen Nefertiti. Of particular interest to me was being able to spot more of the honeycomb rocks that I have seen many times when hiking around the island. These formations are most commonly seen near the ocean, but in Taiwan one can often find them far inland, evidence that the island’s land was once entirely submerged under the surface of the Pacific Ocean. Even though I have visited Yeliu on many occasions, I still found myself hopping eagerly around the rocks, eyes wide, with my camera clicking incessantly.

ENGLISH & CHINESE Jinshan Lorry Chen

金山

North Coast and Guanyinshan National Scenic Area

北海岸及觀

Queen’s Rock Wanli Township

女王頭

Yangmingshan National Park

陽明山

Yeliu Cape Yeliu Geopark

野柳岬

陳金桂

音山國家 風景區

萬里鄉

國家公園

野柳地質 公園

Our time at Yeliu ended all too soon, for we still had a fair few kilometers to paddle to reach Jinshan. The final section was a long, straight paddle and the gentle bobbing of the ocean began to take its toll on my stomach; I finally began to feel some of the seasickness I had been warned about. Fortunately the waves of unease did not last long, and not long after we reached the shore in good spirits at Jinshan. Physically fatigued but with spirit soaring, I landed on the beach with every intention of collapsing for a rest – until I realized

that we still had to haul the kayaks 500 meters up the beach to the cars!

Summoning what little energy I had, I picked up the kayak and virtually crawled through the warm, soft sand to the top of the beach. Then Lorry, being fantastic as ever, brought over a cool beer, and we celebrated what had been a most successful and entertaining excursion.

Sea Kayak Rental Services NORTH COAST

Near the beach at Jinshan Activity Center (金山活動中心)

Website: www.aruba.org.tw (Chinese) NORTHEAST COAST

At Fulong Visitor Center (福隆遊客服務中心) Tel: (02) 2499-1210 KENTING NATIONAL PARK

Many B&Bs (“homestays”) located near the beaches rent out kayaks; Ah-Min Kayaking (阿 民獨木舟) rents out kayaks near the suspension bridge at Jialeshui (佳樂水)

Tel: 0913-429-141

Kayak Outing Organizers TAIWAN KAYAK ASSOCIATION 台灣獨木舟推廣協會

E-Mail: lorry.chen@msa.hinet.net

(Lorry Chen) Website: t aiwan - k ay aker.co m (Chines e fo r um) ARUBA OUTDOOR SCHOOL 阿魯巴國際戶外學校 Bizarre rock formation can be found all along the North Coast

WEBSITE: enaruba.blogspot.com

(English blog)

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July • August 2010 17

FEATURE

Getting

High!

Taitung

An Unforgettable Paragliding Experience in Taitung

Despite Taiwan’s relatively small size, it is a playground for those who love the great outdoors and all the adventure sports that are associated with it. All sorts of activities are available to the keen adventurer, from floating down white-water rapids on a raft to climbing sheer rock faces to gliding through the skies attached to nothing more than a tiny parachute. The last is what I did on one of my more recent Taiwan adventures.

By Stuart Dawson

L

ast year the Taiwan Tourism Bureau held a competition titled “The Best Trip in the World,” in which people were invited to plan and carry out a four-day trip, to promote Taiwan to the rest of the world. As soon as I heard about the competition I knew straight away that some friends and I would enter and that “outdoor adventure” would be the main theme of our trip.

In planning for the trip we decided to focus on Taiwan’s east coast, as this is unquestionably the most beautiful part of Taiwan and also a fantastic place for the kind of activities we wanted to do. Over four crazy, action-packed days we managed to go river tracing, quad biking, hiking, rafting, paragliding and, finally, relaxing in an outdoor hot spring! All of it was great, but the part that stood out the most had to be the paragliding. For me nothing tops the feeling of floating around in the sky surrounded by gorgeous scenery, and 18 July• August 2010

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this was definitely the most memorable part of our trip.

There are a number of places to go paragliding in Taiwan, and all of them are set in beautiful locations. In the north there is a launch area at Green Bay, near Wanli in Taipei County where paragliders fly over the spectacular coastline taking in views of the Pacific Ocean before landing on a nearby beach.

In the center of Taiwan you can soar over the Puli Basin in Nantou County which is just an hour or so from Taichung, Taiwan’s third-largest city. This area stands out for its natural beauty, and when flying around you get amazing views of the basin and adjacent mountains. Both of these locations are great, but for our four-day adventure there was only one place that we wanted to go — Gaotai, in Taitung County.

Gaotai was originally developed as a tea-growing area in the 1960s, and is today still producing excellent teas,

the most famous of which is Fulu Tea. The road leading up to the paragliding center cuts through endless fields of tea bushes set on a steep mountainside.

However, these days Gaotai is perhaps even more renowned around the island as one of Taiwan’s top paragliding spots.

With two launch sites, it doesn’t matter in what direction the wind blows — so long as it isn’t raining take-off is almost always possible, making Gaotai a great spot to try out this sport. hen we arrived at Gaotai the weather was perfect. Beautiful blue skies and a slight breeze from the south meant that we needed to head to the higher launch site on the north face. Despite the fact that I spend almost every weekend in the mountains hiking, I’m actually quite afraid of heights, and as we sat in the back of a decrepit blue truck making our way up the winding mountain road I began to have second thoughts. At times the tires on the righthand side seemed perilously close to the

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Photo / Sunny Su

Paragliders on a tandem flight just after take-off

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Sun Moon Lake is often shrouded in mist

FEATURE edge, and I thought “If this is scaring me, how will I feel hundreds of meters above the ground with only a flimsy piece of canopy to keep me from a sudden and certain death?!”

After a short but “tortuous” journey we arrived at the top, some 900 meters above sea level. The road up had been so steep that at one point some of us had to get out of the truck and walk lest we start rolling back down the hill!

However, the magnificent view from the top was well worth the effort getting there, and we began to get excited about doing our first-ever jump.

There was one other group jumping that day, and they set off first. The first tandem-flight pair (a novice jumper hooked up in front of an experienced jumper on the same paraglider) had no

problems, and that settled my nerves somewhat. Then the second pair ran down the slope of the plateau and their chute lifted up as it had for the other two who had jumped before but then came one of those heart-in-yourmouth moments as the wind suddenly

launch point unscathed.

This did little to calm my nerves.

The wind had begun to swirl around in all directions, and we had to wait for a lifetime for it to settle down. As the time passed I got more and more nervous. Then, finally, it was decided that the wind was sufficiently stable I was stunned by how and we would give it another go. My peaceful it was floating brother Phil went first, followed by our Ross, both launching without a about above the treetops friend hitch. Then it was my turn. Two of us changed direction and the instructor had gone already, so there was no way and passenger were dragged backwards that I could chicken out. I was strapped towards the mountain valley behind us. into the safety harness, made sure the We watched with growing concern as camera I was holding wouldn’t fall out they struggled to gain control; they then of my hand, and then within a matter of very quickly lost altitude and plummeted seconds we were running down the slope into the forest behind us. Fortunately the towards a sheer drop. Just as it seemed two soon reappared, walking back to the like all hope was lost and we were

Essential equipment for professional paragliders

Starting a flight over the scenic East Rift Valley in Taitung

Preparing the parachute before a flight

20 July• August 2010

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doomed to fall off the edge, up shot our chute and we were sailing upwards into the air. t’s difficult to describe how amazing the feeling was. Looking down, I could see my feet dangling above the launch area, which now looked like an anthill with little ants on top of it.

I was stunned by how peaceful it was floating about above the treetops. I had imagined that there would be a rush of wind and we would be traveling at great speed, but it was actually very calm and tranquil.

Chris, my instructor, was keen to point out all the sights — the mountains, the valley, Taitung City, the Pacific Ocean…. The scenery was endless and magnificent. We all gently floated around, passing and waving to each other in the sky. I even managed to steady my hand enough to shoot some video footage.

On the way down, Chris asked if we could do some aerobatics. I said it was fine, thinking that he would turn sharply a few times and that would be it, but I couldn't have been more wrong.

First he put us into a spin. The g-forces were akin to what I imagine pilots of jet fighters experience, and as Chris screamed and whooped in pleasure I began to wonder about his sanity. Next he swung us back and forth through 180 degrees. This time the movement was a little bit gentler and I relaxed enough to let out a few whoops myself !

The landing was as gentle as the flying; we touched down in a field with no problems. After getting out of the harness, I thanked Chris for not killing me and staggered away from the field.

I had an amazing time up there, and hopefully this has gone some way to conquering my fear of heights!

I

Photos / Wen-Jen Fan, Stuart Dawson

ENGLISH & CHINESE Fulu Tea Gaotai Green Bay Puli Basin Taitung County Wanli

福鹿茶 高台

Who to Contact There are a number of operators who can arrange tandem flights at many of Taiwan's paragliding sites. You'll be attached to a qualified instructor who will do all the flying, so it is perfectly safe. All of the equipment is provided, so all you need to bring is a sense of adventure!

FOR PARAGLIDING AT GAOTAI IN TAITUNG, CONTACT: PROFESSIONAL PARAGLIDING TAIWAN (台灣專業飛行傘)

Tel: (089) 550-015 Website: www.flytaiwanpara.com (Chinese)

A 20-minute flight costs NT$1,800 (around US$55) and includes insurance.

FOR PARAGLIDING AT WANLI ON THE NORTH COAST, CONTACT: YEMA PARAGLIDING CLUB (野馬飛行傘俱樂部)

Tel: (02) 2434-8686, 0932-926-289 (Mr. Liu Song-tian, 劉松添) Website: www.aruba.org.tw

[website of Hangliding Association Taiwan (中華民國滑翔翼協會)] A 10-minute flight costs NT$1,000 (around US$30) and includes insurance.

How to Get There The city of Taitung is located on Taiwan's southeast coast, and can be reached by train or airplane from Taipei or Kaohsiung. From the city the easiest way to get to Gaotai is to take a taxi.

It costs around NT$600 (US$20) one way, and afterwards your paragliding group can arrange transport back to Taitung.

翡翠灣 埔里盆地 台東縣 萬里

Travel in Taiwan

July • August 2010 21

PLACES TO STAY

Central location? Check.

Comfortable? Check. Superior service and amenities? Check.

Reasonable price? Check. Typical, right?

And a drag too, huh? Selecting a hotel is indeed a boring, but nevertheless necessary, task. After all, a hotel is just a place to sleep. But why not make your home away from home a destination in and of itself?

Hotel Eclat

Finding an Escape in Paradise The Art of Choosing a Hotel in Taipei

By Linda Chu

22 July • August 2010

Travel in Taiwan

Wego Funtel

Photos /Maggie Song, Wen-jen Fan

Mulan Hotel

Hotel Eclat

Hotel Eclat

A

place characterized by a harmonious integration of tradition with innovation, Taiwan is the perfect place for such an endeavor. While showing reverence for the past, the Taiwanese aren’t afraid to innovate and make something uniquely theirs. This spirit touches every aspect of life. Thus, when finding a place to stay in Taipei, forgo the usual and enrich your experience with a hotel that far exceeds your wildest imagination!

From the modern-day Palace of Versailles ambiance embodied by Hotel Eclat to the fun and dynamic carnival atmosphere displayed in Wego Funtel to the contemporary paradise exhibited in Mulan Motel, the variety will not disappoint.

A Modern Palace of Hotel Versailles Eclat Stepping into Hotel Eclat (a five-minute walk from MRT

Daan Station), I immediately forgot about the unbearable humidity and rush-hour traffic outside.

I began imagining myself entering the Hall of Mirrors at the palace, overwhelmed by the majesty of the glass chandelier (Bubble in Space), for which hundreds of clear, purple-tint glass spheres in different shades were blown by a Czech artist. Tearing my gaze away from the ceiling, I could not help but gawk at the twin golden Salvador Dali sculptures flanking the elevators.

So entranced by the extensive museum-like collection of paintings and sculptures was I that I nearly backed into a stylishly uniformed staff member, who at that moment was explaining to a guest that the hotel would be more than happy to help him book tickets for an Andrea Bocelli performance that evening.

A member of Small Luxury Hotels

Hotel Eclat

of the World, Hotel Eclat is renowned for its exclusivity and customer service.

Personal service is its creed. Upon arrival, guests are greeted by name and escorted to one of the 60 uniquely designed rooms to relax while an inroom check-in is conducted.

What’s more, at Hotel Eclat luxury is redefined. Glancing at the original contemporary painting by Shanghai artist Tang Yun-hui hanging at the mantle of my bed, Nespresso coffee machine, Mont Blanc stationery, Salvatore Ferragamo toiletries, and complimentary mini-bar, I could not help but feel like royalty.

Continuing to explore, I wandered into the restroom. While admiring the clear-glass restroom panel, which had a very interesting tint to it and allows you to see into the bathroom from your room, I was pleasantly surprised when with the flick of a switch the glass

Travel in Taiwan

July • August 2010 23

PLACES TO STAY

suddenly “fogged” – the see-through Polyvision Privacy Glass panel becoming translucent, providing a person in the bathroom with privacy. I backed away from this “magic mirror,” only to find myself amazed by the motion sensor Toto toilet with a seat cover that flips automatically.

Hotel Eclat’s avant-garde spirit does not stop here. It is also boldly present in the newly remodeled Ming Yuen Restaurant, which captures the spirit of the hotel’s owner, George Wong. The whole concept of Hotel Eclat stems from Wong’s passion as an art collector and his desire to share it with the world.

The restaurant is now an eclectic art space designed to spark gossip, dialog, and discussion. Each table boasts a theme of its own. From a horse head with an artistically arranged piece of grass (changed weekly) hanging in its

24 July • August 2010

Travel in Taiwan

mouth, in the contemporary corner, to the bold and forward-thinking stand that General Manager Roger Marten has taken to save sharks by resolving to no longer feature shark fin on the Ming Yuen menu, guests will never run out of topics to discuss while dining at this truly one-of-a-kind restaurant.

A Disneyland for Adults Located in the premier Wego shopping district of Dazhi, Funtel centered on Miramar Entertainment Park (two minutes from MRT Jiannan Station), Wego Funtel is another example of tradition meeting innovation. Similar to the situation for KTVs (karaoke TV lounges) two decades ago, in Taiwan motels have long suffered a negative image. At the vanguard of redefining the image of “motels,” Wego Funtel and Mulan Motel – featured in the next section – are both matchless in their artistry.

Wego Funtel

Featuring 96 rooms, this windowless building is an adult Disneyland, a world that seems only possible in one’s imagination. The designers have focused heavily on the room designs. Featuring KTV and home-theater surroundsound systems, special remote-controlled lighting systems (with a variety of settings, from disco to romantic), and in-

Wego Funtel is an adult Disneyland that seems possible only in one’s imagination door Jacuzzis, each of the 33 different room types is its own paradise of fun.

The Boat House design, for example, is literally modeled after a yacht. The entire room has been constructed using wooden planks, much like a boat deck, with three sunken compartments

Photos / Maggie Song, Wen-jen Fan

Wego Funtel

Mulan Hotel

housing the living room, bedroom, and Jacuzzi area. Sleeping in a bed located “under the floor” is definitely a once-ina-lifetime experience!

A Dancing Butterfly room is a fairy tale come true for every young girl, or young girl at heart, a playground fit for a princess complete with a couch that is a swing. As you swing up and down in the comfort of your living room while watching TV or singing karaoke with your friends, the holographic butterflies on the wall fly and move with you.

Wego Funtel also offers a variety of large-scale party rooms to accommodate private party groups, including a Play House complete with a personal merrygo-round, Journey to Space design that transports you to a setting reminiscent of the hit film Avatar, and Bali Paradise, an urban replication of the idyllic island featuring a swimming-pool-sized Jacuzzi, fresh orchids, delicately carved fauna

designs, and sand and shells captured in bottles.

Your Personal Paradise A block or two away from Mulan Wego Funtel, Mulan Motel Motel began as one man’s dream to bring the beauty of nature to cosmopolitan citydwellers. This design concept meshes the simplicity of nature with luxury and glamour.

Beginning with the ambiance of each of the 65 rooms, a special focus is placed on natural lighting. Each light fixture has been individually designed.

As people living in Taipei know, finding a patch of grass in the urban jungle can be as difficult as waiting for rain in a drought. Through his thoughtful design, the owner’s intention is to help guests enhance their connection with the various elements of nature (air, wind, sun).

Mulan Hotel

Each room features a Jacuzzi spa reminiscent of a hot-spring pool, as well as a private patio with specially cultivated plants and flowers from Taichung in central Taiwan, ranging from orchids and lilies to plum blossoms

Overall, a passion for both nature and for good living is embraced in each room and fruit trees. While you reside here, the professionally trained and friendly staff will make your stay comfortable and ensure your privacy. Almost every room features a special wardrobe-like cabinet that can be opened two ways.

Meals and amenities are placed in the cabinet from the outside and the staff will then switch on a light to indicate that something has been delivered.

Overall, a passion for both nature and

Travel in Taiwan

July • August 2010 25

PLACES TO STAY

EL H OT

T ECL A

怡亨

酒店

Add: 370 Dunhua S. Rd., Sec 1, Taipei City 台 北 市 敦 化 南 路 一 段 37 0 號

Add: 460 Tiding Blvd., Sec. 2, Taipei City

Tel: (02) 2784-8888

台北市堤頂大道二段460號

Tel: (02) 8502-3397

MU

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沐蘭

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精品

TE L

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ei/ /taip m o c . otels clath e . w w

W E G O FU N

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薇閣大直

旗艦館

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Add: 11 Jingye 3rd Rd., Taipei City

www .mu l (Chi an.com nese .tw )

for good living is embraced in each room.

This same passion can be found in the Swmall Restaurant, located on the first floor of the motel. Swmall Restaurant reflects the motel’s blend of tradition with innovation. Despite its overall contemporary feel here, one can still find relics of the past including bronze sculptures of the Monkey King and traditional Shanghainese handpainted wooden birdcages.

As I enjoyed lunch at Swmall, the motel staff explained the symbolism and their personal connection with the birdcages. Like the small plants cultivated and planted in these cages, individuals are trapped in artificial city lives, yearning for a taste of nature. It is in this spirit that the staff at both Mulan Motel and Swmall Restaurant hope to

26 July • August 2010

Travel in Taiwan

台 北 市 敬 業 三 路 11 號

Tel: (02) 8502-7000

serve all of their guests – ie, providing a space where their spirits can soar free.

The extensive menu is classic yet contemporary, and reasonably priced for a restaurant offering such a diverse selection of mouthwatering dishes. Take the paper-wrapped curry chicken, for instance. Inside each “gift-wrapped” package are juicy and tender chicken pieces that have been delicately marinated in curry, wrapped in wax-paper, and then deep-fried. The aromatic flavor leaves you craving more.

What can be a better “gift” for your taste buds?

As for main dishes, the Grand Lantern in Red dish features lightly breaded and fried mutton bites stir-fried with lantern-shaped chili, peanuts, green onions, and a variety of spices. Served in a red lantern-like wooden basket

www.we-g o.c (Chinese)om.tw

on top of a bamboo lattice, this is an innovative spin on the traditional Kung Pao chicken dish.

The fresh-fruit tea is also definitely worth mentioning. Featuring eight different types of fresh fruit, ranging from kiwi to passion fruit, the fruit fragrance hits the spot on a hot summer day.

From traditional flavors with a modern twist to an atmosphere with its own distinctive personality, a visit to Swmall Restaurant and Mulan Motel is bound to delight every taste bud and every aching muscle.

ENGLISH & CHINESE Dazhi George Wong Ming Yuen Restaurant Miramar Entertainment Park Tang Yun-hui

大直 黃建華 明園餐廳 美麗華百樂園 唐雲輝

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Fall in Love with Yilan’s Tranquil Beauty

Come to Beautiful Toucheng Farm To see Hualien’s beauty, you must visit Taroko; to appreciate Tainan’s history, you can’t miss story-filled Anping District; but if you want to experience the tranquil charm of Yilan, Toucheng Farm is definitely your number-one destination.

h natural akes use of the ric oucheng Farm m e to th e in e fo re sts na tiv ec ol og y an d pr ist o call wh to provide people Yilan shoreline, nc e, rie pe ex rm th a re al ru ra l fa ui l nq tra e th e cit y ho m e wi th y nd an d en jo ta rs de un to ce rd a ch an at are so ha to surely comforts th lei d an s pe ca ds lan y. come by in the cit

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a Farm: Experience Come to Toucheng Green Life ay route eshan Tunnel freew

get close enough imals let visitors These loveable an n be pet or close, and they ca up em th e iat ec pr to ap es. Visitors can m surrounding tre fro s ve lea th wi fed collecting fresh e rural delights of also experience th . cleaning pig pens chicken eggs and

in the Rice Paddy Planting Together Culture Area mer, collect weed in the sum

e Xu The opening of th ore practical. e trips to Yilan m ad m s ha ei from Taip even chosen ve ha work in Taipei o wh le op pe y Man ei r tim e away Yi la n du rin g th in n w do e ttl se to lan has already big city; clearly, Yi from work in the ess of city life. rbor from the str rk be hi nd become a safe ha av dr ai ne d, le e wo u yo s ha ty ci e If th th a shor t stay at e joys of life wi th e nc rie pe ex to Toucheng Farm. e pl ot of la nd un de d in a la rg Th e fa rm wa s fo areas which re split into diffe nt be d ul co it at so th n w ith th e m os t ul ts an d ch ild re pr ov id e bo th ad e fa rm lif e. A t to ex pe rie nc e tru co nven ie nt ways ng zoo, orchard, ltural area, petti the rice paddy cu ar ea , vi si to rs ue an d ba rb ec , en rd ga e bl ta ve ge iti es to m at ch m di ffe re nt ac tiv ca n ch oo se fro unique style of d find their own their interests an country life.

ing Zoo Feeding at the Pettimals at the petting zoo are

an The various farm e farm freely. d run around th an e ng ra efre d raise

g, “Plow in the sprin ll up your in the winter.” Ro re sto n, m tu au e in th t to ex pe rie nc e yo ur ba m bo o ha pa nt s an d do n farm even offers s first-hand. The toiling in the field io ne d fa rm in g ct io n of ol d- fa sh a th or ou gh co lle nes and stone hi ain dr ying mac gr ng di clu in s, tool anding of the rs a better underst mills, to give visito culture. iwan’s rice paddy long history of Ta

uttle Mini-bus Taiwan Tourist Sh Route ak e yo u ca n no w m

us e n, la Yi g in sit vi n W he ou t m or e ab ou t t op tio n to fin d ea gr r he ot an of Bu re au ha s un ty. Th e To ur ism th is be au tif ul co , w hi ch br in g m in i-b us ro ut es es ta bl ish ed tw o aces. Buses of interesting pl r be m nu a to s tourist odong Railway ay Station and Lu ilw Ra i ox Jia rt pa de on weekends ever y 20 minutes Station respectively route includes ekdays). The first (one hour on we nm ei Sh ip an Li i Sc en ic A re a, sto ps at Wuf en gq the second at d an , i Creek Park we ng Ta d an , ail Tr National Center Water Park, the Dongshan River ight Market. ts, and Luodong N for Traditional Ar Add: 125, Gengxin Rd., Toucheng Township, Yilan County (宜蘭縣頭城鎮更新路125號) Tel: (03) 977-2222, 977-2000 Website: www. tcfarm.com.tw

?Revealed!

NEW PERSPECTIVES

Yilan's Secrets

When a friend of mine heard about a new bus service taking passengers off the main public transport routes to out-of-the-way attractions all around Taiwan, she immediately wanted to check it out. I begged her to let me tag along, and she finally agreed. However, she promised she wasn’t going to make it easy for me; I would have to correctly answer eight out of ten questions in an on-the-road quiz, or walk all the way home to Taipei! By Jay Acton

T

he Taiwan Tourism Bureau has designed a new bus service to encourage tourists to use public transport to get around Taiwan.

While planes, trains, boats, and regular buses do a great job getting people to most of the island’s countless tourist hotspots, many special destinations are out of reach by public transport. So, to rectify the situation, nine new Taiwan Tourist Shuttle mini-bus routes in six counties have been opened up, with 11 more routes in a further four counties scheduled for launch soon. Updates and more information can be found at www. taiwantrip.com.tw (at time of writing only in Chinese).

Our launch date arrives. My friend has chosen two routes in Yilan County, in the northeast of Taiwan. First up is the Jiaoxi Route. To get there from Taipei, we take the MRT to Taipei City Hall Station and then, near Exit No. 3, jump on a Capital Star Bus bound for Jiaoxi (NT$90 one way; takes about 50 minutes). Trains also run down the east coast through Jiaoxi, but taking the bus, which follows National Freeway No. 5 through the 13km-long Xueshan

28 July• August 2010

Travel in Taiwan

Tunnel, is the faster option.

We arrive at Jiaoxi, Yilan’s famous hot-spring town, and have a quick breakfast of Chinese dumplings and coffee before heading to Jiaoxi Railway Station, about five minutes by foot from where we got off the bus. There we take the shuttle bus, which travels to three local points of interest: Wufengqi Scenic Area, Linmei Shipan Trail, and Tangwei Creek Park.

Before we make it to the bus stop located right in front of the railway station, however, my friend presents me with my first question: How much does the bus ticket cost? a. NT$50 b. NT$30 c. It’s free

1

I remember hearing someone talking about the national tourism authorities and local governments providing free services to boost tourism, but I can’t believe it could be free until the end of the year. So I pick the second answer.

Wrong! All the bus-service outings can be enjoyed free until the end of 2010.

The Jiaoxi shuttle bus departs once every half hour on weekends and once an hour on weekdays. It follows a road climbing through some farmland, which soon becomes steep and winding.

After just ten minutes we pull up at the entrance to Wufengqi Scenic Area.

We pick up a few wax apples and cold water from some street vendors and head for the trail that leads to the main attraction here, Wufengqi Waterfall, which has three stages – lower, middle, and upper. The trail quickly brings us to the lower stage, which cascades over a roughly 10-meter-high cliff before running over a series of smooth rock faces that look like they would make excellent waterslides. We push on a few minutes further up the trail to the middle stage, which is a more impressive fall of about 30 meters. There are quite a few people here enjoying the fresh, cool air coming off the falls on this hot summer day.

To get to the upper stage we climb the now steep trail for another 15 minutes or so before it levels out

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and, eventually, ends at a magnificent towering waterfall. It’s a straight drop from the cleft in the rock high above us down to the large green pool of water at our feet.

As I bask in the splendor of this majestic sight, I am hit with the second question: Wufengqi Waterfall has three stages. What is the total height of the waterfall if you combine all three stages? a. 150 meters b. 100 meters

2

Photos / Sunny Su, Yannick Cariot

c. 50 meters

Hmm, this is a tough one. I try to estimate the height of each stage and add them all together but I can’t decide whether it’s 100 or 150 meters. I plead for help, for more time, for divine intervention, but I get none of them. I blurt out “150 meters?” Wrong! It’s 100 meters. e board the next bus and ride back down the mountain road.

Now there are a few more passengers, many of them out-of-towners, all keen

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3

to make use of this handy new service.

In less than 15 minutes the bus stops at an intersection, and we alight. Seeing the signs pointing to Linmei Shipan Trail, we walk along a dirt road that runs alongside the Jiaoxi Golf Course, and then the stunningly green Caonan Pond, before reaching a clearing where we see some stalls with fruit juice for sale and the sign marking the entrance to the trail.

We buy a cup of delicious kumquat juice, and I am off sauntering toward the trailhead, when my friend stops me and plies me with the next question: Linmei Shipan Trail is a nature reserve where visitors are not allowed to: a. Play in the river b. Take pictures c. Catch fish

3

d. Have a BBQ e. Propose to your girl-/boyfriend (Choose two wrong answers)

This one’s a no-brainer. I smile, hold up my camera, and say, “Let’s go take some pictures!” then jokingly ask my friend: “Will you marry me, honey?”

In addition to the three restrictions listed above, there is also a 350-person limit at any one time on this 1.7km trail. It descends deep into a cool, shaded forest, with water rushing close by through a series of rapids. A steep stairway then takes us on a rapid climb up the side of a gorge to a wooded hilltop, where a platform offers a nice view of Shipan Waterfall and the large, smooth rock plateau above it. We soon complete the circuit. It’s only been an hour, but the pristine forest has really worked its magic on us and we feel like we’ve journeyed to another world and back.

Now we are ready for a hot-spring bath, so we head back to the bus stop and take the next bus back to Jiaoxi town, where we get off at Tangwei Creek Park. Here there are several public footbaths, but we are looking for the full-immersion experience so we pay the modest fee of NT$80 per person and go our separate ways to the female and male baths. These baths were built in 2005 and are a simple Travel in Taiwan

July • August 2010 29

NEW PERSPECTIVES

4 5

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yet elegant affair. Lockers are provided for our clothes; then it’s just a matter of showering before slipping into the relaxing, mineral-rich hot-spring pools lined with a soft, smooth type of timber.

Emerging from our soak, we relax on the public deck and drink locally brewed beer. There are interesting flavors, including a green beer brewed using algae. We drop our feet into a hot-spring pool, but I am not allowed to relax for long. Question number 4 arrives and I must put my thinking cap on once again: At Tangwei Creek you can take a free foot bath. Guess the temperature of the water. a. 30 degrees Celsius b. 40 degrees Celsius c. 50 degrees Celsius

4

Hmmm, the water is pretty hot, but definitely not above 50. I go for the middle ground, 40 degrees. Correct I am. I breathe a sigh of relief and have another gulp of algae beer. Having correctly answered two out of four questions, I’m safe for now.

30 July• August 2010

Travel in Taiwan

T

he next day we set out on the Dongshan River Route. This route runs from Luodong Township, just south of Yilan City, into the next township on the east, Wujie, with stops at Dongshan River Water Park and the National Center for Traditional Arts. We board the bus (half-hourly on weekends; hourly on weekdays) behind Luodong Railway Station, and within ten minutes we are at Dongshan River Water Park.

This spacious park, with gentle rolling hills and an attractive lagoon, is the perfect spot for a Sunday picnic.

It’s also a great park to bike around in. A number of bicycle-rental shops operate outside the park gate, and there is also a Merida store inside the park on the riverbank. Renting a bike from the Merida outlet sets you back NT$100~150 per hour on the weekends, with the same price – per day – on weekdays. Dongshan River is the site of Yilan County’s biggest yearly dragonboat races, so if you’re here in the weeks leading to this event you might see teams out on the river practicing.

Which brings us to the fifth question put to me: Each year during the Dragon Boat Festival, exciting dragon-boat races take place on Dongshan River. During which month is the festival this year? a. February b. June

5

c. August

Oh! I forgot when the races take place. It must be August, yes? No. June is the correct answer.

It’s time to move on to our next stop; the National Center for Traditional Arts. From the Dongshan River Water Park there are several ways to get there – by the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle, by bike, or by boat. We decide to take the boat and I’m relieved to learn we won’t be rowing a dragon boat there, instead riding comfortably aboard a 12-foot electric-powered motorboat. We plough down the river, bouncing slightly on the choppy water and receiving a healthy spray.

After about ten minutes we reach

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Photos / Sunny Su, Yannick Cariot

6 the dock at the arts center. We pay the NT$150 admission and, feeling peckish, head straight for one of the fine restaurants located here. We feast on such local delicacies as squid balls, duck, shrimp, and cool kumquat juice, and then head out to see what else is on offer.

The center is a big place, taking up 24 hectares of space with dozens of tastefully designed buildings, including a visitor center and food court, restored traditional houses and temples, theaters, and a typical Taiwanese “old street,” all made with red brick to give the place a real traditional feel. We pay our respects to the local gods of academia and art with a prayer at the Wenchang Temple and then catch a rousing performance of the Monkey King and his Journey to the West by a talented group of actors, singers, and dancers.

Then we are out onto the old street, where I am struck with question number six: Why are the tiles on the ground along this street of traditional shops arranged in a

unique “VVV” or “WWW” pattern? a. It makes the street less slippery on rainy days

6

b. It helps visually impaired visitors to find their way around c. It creates hundreds of Chinese “ 人 ” (“people”) characters, symbolizing “many customers visiting the shops”.

Well, I know Taiwanese people like their lucky symbols, so I go for the last answer – and I get lucky again!

The old street features the shops of dozens of traditional artisans deftly performing their trades for all to see, and learn. We stop at one place where exquisite decorative flowers are created with paper and wire and then wrapped in a fine, colorful cord. We watch as sugar dough is expertly stretched over and over again to make amazingly light, fine strands that harden and are cut up to make delicious sweet snacks. Finally, we do some DIY with a spinning-tops master. We get to paint a spinning top, and then learn a few tips about how to use them.

We then walk across a bridge to

NEW PERSPECTIVES Back in Taipei

NATIONAL CENTER FOR TRADITIONAL ARTS 國立傳統藝術中心

ADD: 201 Wubin Rd., Sec. 2, Jixin Village, Wujie Township, Yilan County (宜蘭縣五結 鄉季新村五濱路二段201號) WEBSITE: w w w. n c f t a . g ov. t w

ENGLISH & CHINESE

8 see Scholar Huang’s Residence. This is a traditional house standing at its original location, with all of the amazing architectural detail still extant.

Next question: Why are the rooms on the two sides of a traditional Chinese three-sided courtyard

7

residence lower the further away they are from the main building? a. The design offers ideal protection against strong winds. b. The houses were built in accordance with the rank of a family’s members. c. The builders usually ran low on material as they built away from the central building, so they built quarters ever smaller.

Well, I can’t see how this design would offer any special protection against typhoons, and I can’t imagine a residential complex built so well as to still

32 July• August 2010

Travel in Taiwan

be standing would have suffered from a lack of resources. So, to symbolize rank?

Bingo! e leave the National Center for Traditional Arts, taking the bus back to Luodong. I assess my performance so far: four out of seven questions right. If I can get the last question, I won’t have to walk home. My friend smiles at me and asks, “Did you bring your walking shoes?”

We get off the bus at Luodong Railway Station, and make the short walk to the famed Luodong Night Market. The place is buzzing with activity and we wander around trying different snacks, like ox tongue-shaped cookies and iced tapioca with red beans.

There’s also a lot of trendy clothing on sale, as well as various games to play for prizes.

Then, the moment of truth, the final question:

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草湳陂 冬山河 冬山河親水公園 礁溪 礁溪高爾夫球場 林美石盤步道 羅東 黃舉人宅 石盤瀑布 湯圍溝公園 文昌祠 吳卿 五峰旗風景區 五峰旗瀑布 五結鄉 雪山隧道 宜蘭縣

At Luodong Night Market you can eat an Yilan specialty made of the head of an animal.

Which animal? a. Turtle b. Pigeon c. Duck

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d. Goat

Oh!? I can’t imagine a cute little turtle head being wolfed down around here, nor a hefty goat’s head. That makes it either pigeon or duck. Well, I’ve never encountered pigeon as a food before, so….is it duck’s head?

YES! I have just passed the quiz, and after a fun-filled weekend riding the new Taiwan Tourist Shuttle mini-bus service to some very special places in the county of Yilan, I can look forward to a comfortable bus ride back to Taipei. But not before we hunt down some Yilan duck head for the journey home.

Photos / Sunny Su, Yannick Cariot

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Caonan Pond Dongshan River Dongshan River Water Park Jiaoxi Jiaoxi Golf Course Linmei Shipan Trail Luodong Scholar Huang's Residence Shipan Waterfall Tangwei Creek Park Wenchang Temple Wu Ching Wufengqi Scenic Area Wufengqi Waterfall Wujie Township Xueshan Tunnel Yilan County

HEALTH HEALTHTOURISM TOURISM

In Search of Wellbeing Places to Refresh Your Body and Mind

Many travelers these days are are looking for a relaxed and passive approach in search of a satisf ying vacation.

Taiwan of fers a wide variety of health-tour options, which range from soaking in natural hot-springs, to taking spirit-enlightening meditation courses, to trying healthful cuisine. Here are some suggestions on where to go in search of wellbeing. By Kurt Weidner Hot-Spring Bathing The Taiwanese are second only to the Japanese when it comes to passion for hot-spring bathing. With more than 100 hot-spring areas to be found on the island, it’s never dif f icult to f ind a steaming pool with mineralrich hot-spring water, promising a totally relaxing and ref reshing soaking experience. You don’t even need to leave the big city of Taipei to f ind hot-spring pleasures, since the northern district of Beitou is one of the island’s most f amous hot-spring areas. If you want to combine your hot-spring bath with enchanting views of lush mountains, just head a bit f urther north up into Yangmingshan or visit hot-spring resorts in other scenic areas around the island.

Meditation Having taken care of your physical wellbeing, how about some spiritual nourishment as well? If you feel like getting away f rom it all to f ind some peace of mind, visiting a Buddhist monastery like Dharma Drum Mountain in northern Taiwan is an excellent idea. This is a modern Buddhist center nestled in the tranquil coastal mountains, of fering a wide variety of meditation courses and classes. Chung Tai Chan Monastery in central Taiwan and Foguangshan in the south are two other important centers on the island for studying and practicing Buddhism.

Add: Sanjie Village, Jinshan Township, Taipei

Healthf ul Cuisine You won’t experience wellbeing with an empty stomach, or a stomach f illed with junk food. Luckily, healthf ul food is widely available in Taiwan, and there are even restaurants specializing in health-food cuisine.

For vegetarians and health-conscious diners there is a wide range of restaurants serving not only meatless f are but also dishes prepared with f resh ingredients f rom organic f arms. Another type of restaurant popular in Taiwan serves dishes that include traditional Chinese medicinal ingredients. While the tastes and f lavors might at f irst strike the Western palate as strange, trying medicinal cuisine is def initely a f un experience.

Recommended Hot-Spring Resorts

Tel: (02) 2498-7171 Website: chan.ddm.org.tw

Recommended Restaurants

Spring City Resort 北投春天酒店

Chung Tai Chan Monastery 中台禪寺

Spring Natural Vegetarian Restaurant 春天素食餐廳

Add: 18 Youya Rd., Beitou District, Taipei City 台北市北投區幽雅路18號

Recommended Meditation Centers Dharma Drum Mountain 法鼓山

County

台北縣金山鄉三界村

Add: 2 Zhongtai Rd., Puli Village, Nantou

Tel: (02) 2897-5555 Website: www.springresort.com.tw

County 南投縣埔里鎮中台路2號 Tel: (049) 293-0215 Website: www.ctworld.org.tw

Tien Lai Spring Resort 天籟溫泉會館

Foguangshan Monastery 佛光山

Add: 1-7 Mingliu Rd., Zhonghe Village, Jin-

Add: 153 Xingtian Rd., Xingtian Village, Dashu Township, Kaohsiung County 高雄縣大樹鄉興田村興田路153號 Tel: (07) 656-1921 Website: www.fgs.org.tw

shan Township, Taipei County 台北縣金山鄉重和村名流路1-7號 Tel: (02) 2408-0000 Website: www.tienlai.com.tw

Add: 3F, 26 Changchun Rd., Taipei City 台北市長春路26號 3樓

Tel: (02) 2525-1622 Website: www.springfood.com.tw Tai G Restaurant 台 G店

Add: 95 Yingchuan Rd.., Danshui Township,

Taipei County

台北縣淡水鎮英專路95號

Tel: (02) 8631-6800 Website: www.tai-g-net.com.tw

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July • August 2010 33

PEOPLE “The moment I stepped on this island, I liked it,” says Menno Goedhart, director of the Netherlands Trade & Investment Office. “It was my choice to come here, and I will stay here even after retirement.” His arrival was in sharp contrast to that of his compatriots of almost 400 years ago, who came to Taiwan out of necessity rather than free choice. In his recently published travel guide “The Real Taiwan and the Dutch,” Goedhart shares his Taiwan experience and his findings about the Dutch presence here a few centuries ago.

In Love with the

“Real Taiwan”

W

hile the size and the population of the Netherlands and Taiwan are quite comparable, there is not much else that is similar between the two lands, according to Goedhart. In spite of this, or perhaps because of it, Taiwan has become his second home.

Maybe you would expect a high-ranking foreign diplomat to be spending his weekends and holidays on the golf course or at exclusive retreats, but not this f riendly Dutchman, who instead has been traveling to every nook and cranny of this land since his f irst arrival eight years ago. During his many journeys, that f irst positive impression he had of “Formosa” upon arrival has been conf irmed over and over again.

Naturally, as a Dutch official in Taiwan, Goedhart is interested in the history shared by Taiwan and his own country. Combining his love for travel and his curiosity about Holland’s history in this faraway land, soon after arriving he started visiting those places most deeply associated with the Dutch period in Taiwan, which lasted almost 40 years, 34 July • August 2010

Travel in Taiwan

from 1624 to 1662. He has made countless trips to the city of Tainan, the major base for the powerful Dutch East India Company (VOC). The remains of two fortifications, Fort Provintia and Fort Zeelandia, are well-known historic sites, visited by many local and foreign tourists alike; with his restless and inquisitive mind, however, the Dutch representative early on realized that there was much more to be discovered about his country’s colonial activities in Taiwan than what could be found at those major sites.

So he started searching for historical documents, almost exclusively records compiled by the VOC, since the Dutch were the only organized, record-keeping presence in Taiwan, which was very much frontier land at that time. In the 1620s the island’s total population consisted of an estimated 150,000 indigenous people and only a few thousand Han Chinese and Western inhabitants (apart from the Dutch, from the late 1620s to the early 1640s there was also a Spanish enclave in the northern port towns of Danshui and Keelung).

Photos / Wang Ting Ting, Menno Goedhart

A Dutchman Follows in the Steps of His Ancestors and Makes a Lot of Friends along the Way By Kurt Weidner

During his research Goedhart discovered that there had been countless encounters between the Dutch and indigenous tribes, especially in the southwestern part of Taiwan. Not content with learning about these sometimes violent, sometimes friendly exchanges exclusively from Dutch documents, he decided to go to indigenous villages and talk to descendants of those who had met the foreigners in person centuries ago, to learn the other side of the story.

The fact that the indigenous tribes of that time did not record their history on paper and store it in well-maintained archives like the Dutch doesn’t mean that there is no source of information within the tribes about meeting the “redhaired people” who came to their villages. In fact, there are countless oral stories and legends circulating among the tribes that have been passed down from generation to generation, and Goedhart has heard a fair share of them. During his many visits to indigenous settlements around Taiwan, he has even met more than a few tribesmen claiming to have Dutch DNA, and some of these indeed appear to have Western facial features.

Traveling to Taiwan’s remote corners to dig up these oftentimes moving stories has become Goedhart’s passion. The warm welcome he has received from so many of the indigenous people he has met, and their eagerness to tell their stories, has touched him deeply. Wishing to share this extraordinary experience, he decided to write a book about it. he Real Taiwan and the Dutch is a unique and somewhat unorthodox travel guide written by Goedhart and

T

Cheryl Robbins, a long-term resident of Taiwan and a journalist who has been active in promoting the arts and culture of Taiwan’s indigenous peoples. Simply put, the book is a collection of Goedhart’s favorite discoveries during his many travels. Among these are interesting fi ndings and stories related to the Dutch presence in Taiwan, but also the description of a great many places he wishes to recommend to other travelers. You’ll also fi nd introductions of a large number of restaurants serving up indigenous fare, B&Bs and smaller hotels, leisure farms, cafés in unique locations, and art galleries and museums featuring indigenous arts. Many of these places are run by members of indigenous tribes, and by including them in his book Goedhart wishes to give something back for the warm hospitality he’s received on so many occasions.

In contrast to other writers of guidebooks about Taiwan, Goedhart doesn’t attempt to cover all areas of the island, and most of the better-known tourist attractions he leaves out altogether. His focus is on those small places in the countryside — restaurants for example — where the friendly proprietor sits down with you for a chat and a glass of millet wine or two, or B&Bs run by tribespeople who offer to take you on tours deep into the mountains.

“The Real Taiwan and the Dutch” is a real treat. It contains many fascinating historical facts and stories, and at the same times it serves as a very helpful and practical guide for anyone who wants to explore fascinating places in Taiwan that are far off the usual tourist routes.

“The Real Taiwan and the Dutch,” published by Taiwan Interminds Publishing, is available in English and Chinese (“真情台灣“) at major bookstores in Taiwan, including Eslite and Page One, and is priced at NT$450 (about US$15). For purchasing directly from the publisher, visit www.tipi.com.tw (Chinese) or call (02) 2775-3736 or send an e-mail to editor04@tipi.com.tw (Mr. Chang).

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July • August 2010 35

Often Simple, Always Meaningful Unique Works of Art Made by Taiwan’s Indigenous Peoples Indigenous handicrafts and artworks make unique souvenirs of your travels in Taiwan. They can be purchased directly from artists in their village workshops, from shops specializing in indigenous products, and from gift shops in museums that focus on indigenous culture. Following is a list of shops, artist workshops, and museums around Taiwan where you can find authentic handicrafts and artworks, all unique in character, made by Taiwan’s indigenous peoples.

36 July • August 2010

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Taipei City

Taipei Indigenous Shop (臺北市原住民商場) Add: MRT Taipei City Hall Station (close to Exit 4) Tel: (02) 2723-2446 Website: www.tis.ec-media.taipei.gov.tw (Chinese)

Run by the Taipei Indigenous Peoples Commission; general introduction to the cultures of Taiwan’s indigenous tribes; certified representative handicrafts and artworks from various tribes.

Shung Ye Museum of Formosan Aborigines (順益台灣原住民博物館) Add: 282 Zhishan Rd., Sec. 2, Taipei City ( 台北市至善路 2 段 282 號 ) Tel: (02) 2841-2611 ext. 631 Website: www.museum.org.tw

The museum collects and displays artefacts of Taiwan’s indigenous peoples; its gift shop offers publications and souvenirs, including woven items, cloth coin purses and

Photos / Vision Int'l, Cheryl Robbins

市

SHOPPING

Photos / Vision Int'l, Cheryl Robbins

unique artworks made by combining wood, metal, and stone; café with artwork displays and splendid views of the Pacific.

Pingtung County

Sandimen Bead Workshop (山地門串珠工坊) Add: 215-1 Zhongxiao Rd., Shuimen Village, Neipu Township, Pingtung County ( 屏東縣內埔鄉水門村忠孝路 215-1 號 ) Tel: (08) 799-4046

Workshop of Paiwan artist Umass Zingur, who helped his tribe to revive the art of glazed bead-making by doing intensive research and developing new techniques; wide selection of beads made of glass as well as clay.

Ljegeay Design Workshop (勒戈崖工作室) Add: 22, Lin 2, Jiayi Village, Majia Township, Pingtung County ( 屏東縣瑪家鄉佳義村 2 鄰 22 號 ) Tel: (08) 799-0366

Workshop of another outstanding Paiwan artist, Ljegeay Mavaliv, who specializes in batik arts; offers batik lampshades and scarves, hand-painted ceramic cups, saucers, and candle holders, as well as oil and batik paintings, all featuring indigenous motifs.

Chiayi County (Alishan)

Tashan Workshop (塔山工作坊) Add: 45, Lin 2, Laiji Village, Alishan, Chiayi County

handbags, jewelry and accessories, woodcarvings, pottery, and leather items.

Naruwan Indigenous Market (娜魯灣原住民族商場) Add: 102 Huanhe S. Rd., Sec. 2, Taipei City ( 台北市環河南路二段 102 號 ) Tel: 1999 ext. 2012 (from outside Taipei City [02] 2720-6001 ext. 32)

Taiwan's first indigenous-theme mall; a total of ten shops selling indigenous specialties, agricultural products, and handicrafts; try some mountain boar and millet wine, and check out the selection of fine aboriginal jewelry!

Hualien County

JOKI Art Gallery (拙而奇工作室) Add: 3 Shimen, Gangkou Village, Fengbin Township, Hualien County

( 花蓮縣豐濱鄉港口村石門 3 號 ) Tel: (03) 878-1616 Website: www.joki.com.tw (Chinese)

Art gallery overlooking the ocean run by artist A-Gan, a Han Chinese who embraces the indigenous way of life;

( 嘉義縣阿里山鄉來吉村 2 鄰 45 號 ) Tel: (05) 266-1351 Website: paictt-t.tsou.tw (Chinese)

Workshop run by Tsou artist Paicu Tiaki’ana, who specializes in leather ware, woven items, bamboo objects, and paintings; make sure to check out the selection of leather purses with Tsou motifs!

Nantou (Sun Moon Lake)

Modeng Yuanzhumin ("Modern Indigenous People") (摩登原住民) Add: 57 Yiyong St., Sun Moon Lake, Yuchi Township, Nantou County ( 南投縣魚池鄉日月潭義勇街 57 號 ) Tel: (049) 285-0472 Website: www.sony.net.tw (Chinese)

Large selection of all types of indigenous handicrafts and artworks, including woodcarving, accessories, woven items, traditional clothing; amazingly beautiful necklaces and bracelets.

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July • August 2010 37

FOOD

Left: Ginger intestines of Laojie Bantiao Restaurant

Far left: Paper lantern at Shuijing Chatang teahouse

Bottom left: Jialemi; tomato and meat sauce over rice

Bottom right: Flat rice noodles with pig's trotters

Simple Delights Meeting the Hakkas and Sampling their Unique Cuisine in the Town of Beipu Hakka people are commonly viewed as a subgroup of the Han Chinese people, with origins tracing back to Southeast China. They are considered the migrants from mainland China’s Guangdong Province, settling inland. Not only is their language different from both Mandarin and Taiwanese, but their diet is also quite unique, consisting of delicacies that can only be found on select parts of the island. Recently I embarked on a journey to sample some special treats of the Hakka diet, only to discover the heart of one of Taiwan’s most fascinating subcultures.

By Francesca Chang

38 July • August 2010

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Photos / Art Chiu

“F

ate has brought you here.” I was greeted with these words upon my arrival in Beipu, a small, traditional Hakka town located in Hsinchu County. The vendor was referring to my Asian features, suggesting that my Taiwanese heritage is what brought me back to my father’s motherland.

After meeting the Hakka people of Beipu, however, I was sure that fate had brought me here lest I miss an encounter with a people of rare humility and genuineness.

The congenial man sold a snack food called aicao caibao by the side of a peaceful road.

Though small enough to fit in the palm of one’s hand, the inside of these glutinous dumplings is saturated with pungent flavors, including fried onion, dried shrimp, dried radish, mushrooms, and salt. The dumplings’ skin is made of glutinousrice flour, and consumed together with the tasty contents results in more of a meal than a mere snack. The merchant explained that these sticky dumplings were traditionally packed to go, since leaving home for work usually meant limited access to food during the day.

For the most common type of these dumplings, aicao (Chinese mugwort) is mixed with glutinous-rice flour to form the treat’s outer shell. Aicao is believed to ward off evil spirits and insects, and gives the dumpling its vibrant-green color and granular appearance.

Just down the street from the vendor a Hakka woman was selling another version of these dumplings. Before I could say anything, she generously handed me one – free of charge. For this type pumpkin is used instead of aicao, creating an orangecolored skin and blander flavor. A plainwhite version of the snack is also available, containing raw pieces of radish and having an even saltier flavor. s I continued on my search for Hakka delights, I stumbled upon outdoor vendors selling preserved fruits and vegetables. Since long ago the Hakka people frequently have found

A

Entrance to Shuijing Chatang teahouse

Tasting aicao caibao

Dried persimmon of the Chiang Persimmon factory

Dried persimmons are a signature dessert of Beipu themselves on less than ideal lands between migrations, they adapted to their environment by drying and preserving whatever food they could find. During my visit to Beipu I even came across jars containing edible radish that had been preserved for twenty years!

Beipu’s strong winds create ideal conditions for the fruit-drying process.

And with many persimmon plantations in the area, it is no surprise that dried persimmons are a signature dessert of the small town. The owners of the Chiang Persimmon factory have perfected the drying process for these

soft and gooey treats, and introduced me to the many variations of their special product made with different types of persimmon. I sampled a few different types and my personal favorite was the shigan (“dried persimmon”). At first glance the white substance on the fruit’s exterior looked like mold. This white powder, however, is the persimmon’s own natural sugar, which appears on the skin when the fruit’s water content begins to evaporate. The thick layer is called shishuang (“persimmon frost”), and makes this type of dried persimmon comparably sweeter.

Now that the frosted fruit had satisfied my sweet tooth, I was ready for something with more substance. Conveniently, Travel in Taiwan

July • August 2010 39

FOOD The ingredients are placed in a clay bowl and ground with a rounded wooden pestle.

Leicha (“pounded tea”) is a tea-based Hakka-specialty beverage, traditionally made by grinding dried green tea leaves, peanuts, sesame seeds, and pumpkin seeds with a mortar and pestle.

During this process the oils from the peanuts and sesame seeds are released, creating a moist, grainy paste.

Hot water is added, slowly at first, to separate the oils.

Leicha

Laojie Bantiao restaurant was just around the corner. I tried the restaurant’s jiangsi chao dachang (“ginger intestines”). Pig’s large intestines are first washed with salt and flowers from the sweet-potato plant to remove the strong odor. The intestines are then cut into short hollow tubes and seasoned with ginger and a local variety of basil called jiucengta. To experience all the flavors, I first took a bite of the herb, which had a sweeter flavor than that of the basil found in the West, followed by a bite of the crisp ginger – very fresh and acidic – and finally a bite of the intestines, which had a fatty outside and chewy inside similar in consistency to squid. fter this energizing meal I walked down narrow alleys and past working wells to arrive at Shuijing Chatang teahouse, or “The Well.” With my first step through the stone-gateway courtyard I felt the island’s subtropical climate disappear, being replaced by a mild-temperature ambiance and a cool ocean-like breeze. The outdoor courtyard, lined with stone pillars, was complemented by a garden of plants against the outer wall, hiding a small pond filled with

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Finally, cooked yiren (Job’s tears), ludou (mung beans), and small pieces of mihua (puffed rice) are added to create a soup-like texture.

colorful koi carp. Two wooden doors led to the dimly lit main tea room. Dark wooden benches and tables stood across from shelves of tea, preserved foods, and sweetened goodies.

Shortly after my arrival, one of the owners went to work preparing a few of The Well’s Hakka specialties.

In the meantime the other proprietor brought me to their guesthouse, a twostory building with rooms available for lodging. Though it is a symbol of wealth and advancement in small villages to tear down one’s home and construct a new one, the owners of The

The relaxed attitude was apparent not only in the shopkeepers’ diet but also in their way of living Well firmly believe that it is possible to maintain old buildings such as this with the proper care. And from the looks of their guesthouse, featuring wood floors, a winding staircase leading to a cozy reading room, relaxing bathrooms, and a chic kitchen bar, I would have to agree

with this humble attitude.

I returned to the teahouse with great anticipation. First on the menu was a soup made with pig’s trotter and flat rice noodles. The tender pig’s feet (simmered for three hours in the soup) added a surprisingly light flavor to this dish.

The elasticity of the thick, transparent rice noodles was an indicator of their freshness. The soup also contained Chinese Angelica root and Chinese wolfberry, two herbs used in Chinese medicine that added a refreshing, almost bitter flavor to the broth. More common than noodles, however, are Hakka dishes containing rice. The Hakka call tomatoes jialemi, and the dish I tasted consisted of a delicious tomato and meat sauce over rice. The sauce, cooked with basil and onion, reminded me of my mother’s spaghetti sauce, though sweeter and thicker.

I washed down all of the delicious flavors of the day with a cup of hot pengfeng kafei. This exotic blend of coffee is brewed by combining coffee beans with pengfeng tea leaves. This tea, also known as Oriental Beauty tea or Formosa oolong

Photos / Art Chiu

My self-made

Different variations of caibao

Roadside vendor preparing caibao

tea, is a variation of oolong tea with natural honey, flower, and fruit flavors.

Unlike other oolong teas I have tried, this type lacks a bitter aftertaste. When mixed with the bold coffee the taste of the tea is present yet ever so faint, adding smoothness to the beverage and dissolving any disagreeable aftertaste the coffee may have introduced.

If one wishes to escape metropolitan life for a day, local buses from the city of Hsinchu will transport travelers to the old town of Beipu. Beyond the cuisine, visitors should also spend time touring the historical mansions and temples in the area. Not only will the exotic food of this town leave you well satisfied, but the welcoming villagers and simple

approach to living are sure to leave a lasting impression, instilling a new sense of appreciation for these descendants of hardy Taiwan pioneers.

ENGLISH & CHINESE

aicao caibao bantiao Beipu Hakka people jiangsi chao dachang jialemi jiucengta leicha ludou mihua pengfeng kafei shigan shishuang yiren

艾草菜包

SHUIJING CHATANG (水井茶堂)

Tel: (03) 580-5122 Add: 1 Zhongzheng Rd., Beipu Township,

Hsinchu County (新竹縣北埔鄉中正路1號) Website: 0954079958.travel-web.com.tw (Chinese)

粄條 北埔

CHIANG PERSIMMON (姜太公柿餅)

客家人

Tel: (03) 580-5270 Add: 24 Miaoqian St., Beipu Township, Hsinchu County (新竹縣北埔鄉廟前街24號) Website: 0954079958.travel-web.com.tw (Chinese)

薑絲炒大腸 加了蜜 九層塔 擂茶 綠豆 米花

LAOJIE BANTIAO (老街粄條)

澎風咖啡

Tel: (03) 580-3871 Add: 31 Miaoqian St., Beipu Township,

柿乾 柿霜

Hsinchu County (新竹縣北埔鄉廟前街31號)

薏仁

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July • August 2010 41

TOUCHED BY TAIWAN

A Wonderful World Out There Hiking and Outdoor Fun in the Mountains of Taiwan

By Stuart Dawson

W

hen I first arrived in Taipei, I can honestly say, I had very little interest in hiking.

Coming from a coastal town in the UK, most of my free time was spent at the beach swimming and sunbathing (on the rare occasions when it was sunny enough to!), and I had never once climbed a mountain. It wasn’t until I had been living in Taiwan for a couple of years that I really started to hike.

The first time I went hiking was “by accident.” Sitting at home bored,

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I decided to go out for a ride on my scooter. With no plan of where to go, I randomly picked a road heading south out of Taipei and started riding, looking for something of interest. After about 30 minutes or so I spotted a brown tourist sign indicating a waterfall and, feeling curious, I headed in that direction. The road very quickly ended and I found myself at the entrance of a short trail to the Yinhedong (Silver Stream Cave) Waterfall.

The fall is about forty meters high,

and on a rainy day huge amounts of water pour over the clifftop and smash into the rocks below. Next to the waterfall, built high into the cliff face, is a beautiful little temple. I climbed the steep and slippery stairs up to the temple and was amazed to find that I could continue and actually walk behind the waterfall. The cascading water was sprayed back towards me by the wind, and I got completely soaked. This short walk inspired me to find more trails, and hiking became an obsession.

Photos / Stuart Dawson

Among the first impressions many people get after arriving in Taiwan are the busy roads filled with motor scooters, the crowded neon-lit streets, and the hectic activities at night markets. Taiwan, of course, has more in store than just the frantic life of the big city. For those who spend some time on this amazing island, their picture of Taiwan will soon include the beautiful mountains and valleys that cover more than two-thirds of the island. This is especially the case once you leave your vehicle behind and venture out in the wonderful world of Taiwan’s outdoors.

Taking in the scenery at Huangdidian Trail in Taipei County

I

n Taiwan there are myriad opportunities to go hiking. Wherever you are, you are never really far from a mountain or hill trail, and this is notably true of Taipei. Set in a basin, the city is surrounded by mountains, most of which can be hiked by following routes ranging in difficulty from gentle paved paths to sheer cliff faces with fixed ropes.

One of my favorite day-trip hikes is the Huangdidian trail near the quiet, little town of Shiding southeast of Taipei City. It involves an exhilarating walk along a bare spine of exposed rock. All

along the top, to left and right are huge drops, making this a very exciting place indeed.

I first read about Huangdidian in Richard Saunders’ excellent book, Taipei Day Trips 1, which is a must-buy for any hiker looking to explore the mountains surrounding Taipei. It is full of useful information, including descriptions of trails and details regarding public transport. I was particularly intrigued

by Huangdidian, as it sounded like a thrilling trail – and certainly proved just that!

I’ve now been to Huangdidian many times, but the first time remains the most memorable. I went there with two friends and we almost met with disaster when, halfway along the trail, one friend jumped off a large boulder and landed on a loose patch of ground. The soil gave way and he slid down the side of the mountain. All we heard from behind us was “@#*!” and, whirling around, found he had disappeared. Looking over the edge of the ridge, we saw him holding onto a tree branch and waiting for us to pull him up. A very close call, Travel in Taiwan

July • August 2010 43

TOUCHED BY TAIWAN

In Taiwan there are myriad opportunities to go hiking and you are never really far from a mountain or hill trail

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Atayal Tribe. During the Japanese occupation of Taiwan (1895-1945) the Japanese widened the Xiakeluo Trail and built police stations along the way in order to gain control over the unruly tribespeople.

The trail still exists today, as do remnants from some of the police stations. Walking along the path you can spot the old copper communication lines that connected the Japanese who were stationed there, and at every point of interest there are bilingual signboards that give excellent explanations.

Most people begin hiking at the small village of Qingquan and walk to the abandoned Baishi Police Station at the halfway point, which makes a great place to set up camp for the night. Planted outside the station are several cherry trees that blossom in the springtime, making it a very picturesque place to relax after a hard day of hiking.

On the second day hikers are faced with two choices, to return to Qingquan or, if transport has been arranged, continue on to Yanglao and complete the trail. From the police station there’s a steep downhill section that leads

towards the beautiful Sakeyajin River, and spanning the river is the impressive Baishi Suspension Bridge. This 145m-long bridge was built in 1921, and was used by trucks to supply Japanese forces. Walking over the bridge, which is about 80m above the valley floor, is frightening enough – I can’t imagine how the soldiers felt driving over it!

As Xiakeluo is a linear trail, most day-hikers start at one end and return the same way. However, many hiking groups arrange trips with transport to the trail’s start and pick-up at the end, meaning that the entire length can be completed, which takes two days. hilst hiking is a fantastic activity to do in Taiwan, average daytime temperatures of around 28°C during the summer make climbing a mountain sometimes seem like selfinflicted punishment. So during the summer months, the best way to get outdoors and enjoy nature should involve water. River tracing combines swimming, hiking, and rock climbing together in one sport, and is my favorite way to cool off and escape the heat and bustle of the cities.

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Photos / Stuart Dawson

and a good reminder to always be careful!

After that we continued following what we were sure was the trail; but still we managed to get ourselves lost at the end, and came down the wrong side of the mountain. Not being able to find a bus to get back to our starting point, we started on what would have been a long trek back to our bikes when, much to our relief, a passing car stopped and the driver very kindly offered to give us a lift. Despite such minor setbacks we had a wonderful day, climbing the sheer cliffs and making our way across the precarious ridges. s well as short day-trips, Taiwan is also a great place for hikers looking to spend several days trekking through the higher mountains. The majority of Taiwan’s landscape is classified as mountainous, and there are countless trails that can take anything from a few days to a couple of weeks to complete.

An excellent place to go for a twoday excursion is the Xiakeluo Historic Trail in Hsinchu County’s mountainous Jianshi Township. Originally, this trail connected villages of the indigenous

exploring Taiwan's mountains a lot has changed for me. I’ve become a lot fitter, and trails I used to find difficult are With so many mountains, it is no now very easy. I’ve been to some of the surprise that Taiwan has lots of rivers most beautiful and spectacular places and gorges which are perfect for tracing. in Taiwan, if not the world, and I've For made lots of friends River tracing combines anyone along the way. And new to this swimming, hiking and rock even though I’ve outdoor climbing, and is my favorite way traveled all over the activity, a island, there are still good place to cool off and escape the heat hundreds of trails, to start peaks and valleys left is the hamlet of Jiajiuliao, just outside to explore, so hopefully there’ll be plenty of Taipei and close to the hot-spring more adventures in the years to come. resort of Wulai. The Jiajiuliao Stream is mostly shallow and the gradient isn’t particularly steep, meaning no special equipment is needed to enjoy tracing up ENGLISH & CHINESE this beautiful waterway.

Near the beginning is an artificial 泰雅族 Atayal Tribe waterfall built to protect a bridge further Baishi Police Station 白石駐在所 白石吊橋 Baishi Suspension Bridge downstream, an excellent jump-off spot 皇帝殿 Huangdidian for the first plunge into the cool waters. 加九寮 Jiajiuliao An hour and a half of tracing will get 加九寮溪 Jiajiuliao Stream you to the best part of the stream, a 15m 尖石鄉 Jianshi Township stretch of rock that has been smoothed 清泉 Qingquan down by the action of the waterway, 薩克亞金溪 Sakeyajin River forming a natural waterslide. Here you 石碇 Shiding can slide down with the current and 銀河洞瀑布 Yinhedong (Silver plunge into a deep pool at incredible Stream Cave) Waterfall speeds. 養老 Yanglao When I look back at the last few 霞喀羅古道 Xiakeluo Historic Trail years, I realize that since I first began 烏來 Wulai Travel in Taiwan

July • August 2010 45

MY LOCAL FRIENDS

Good Kung Fu

Master Lo at a younger age

By Lucas Wiltse

Hexagons drawn on the floor are used for chi sao drills

Wooden dummy (“muk yanjong ”)

For many, the idea of martial arts brings to mind the likes of Bruce Lee, Jackie Chan, and Jet Li. With these action stars’ respective successes in the movies, new light was cast upon the traditional Chinese combat arts and a frenzy of interest in Chinese kung fu was set off. There are now schools around the world where you can acquire the fighting skills displayed on the silver screen, and millions of people are practicing one or another style on a regular basis. If you want to learn from a true master, however, consider making a trip to Taipei and signing up for classes at the Wing Chun kung fu school run by Master Lo Man Kam. 46 July • August 2010

Travel in Taiwan

Photos / Daemon Lee

Meeting Wing Chun Master Lo Man Kam

W

ith the end of the Chinese Civil War and the founding of the People’s Republic of China on October 1, 1949, many wellknown martial-arts practitioners chose to escape Communist rule and emmigrate to Taiwan. This brought about an expansion of local interest in the martial arts and made the island a premier place to acquire expert training. Today, one of the best places is the school of Lo Man Kam. Established in 1975, Master Lo’s school has since the beginning drawn students from around the globe seeking training in the Wing Chun style of kung fu.

After only a moment in Master Lo’s office, I understood that I was in the presence of a true expert. The room and its walls were replete with dusty trophies, aged plaques of various recognitions, and faded pictures of Lo with revered figures of the martial-arts world over the years. The master agreed to sit down with me and discuss his history, along with that of Wing Chun. I could faintly hear the muffled sounds of his students hard at work on the rooftop above as we began.

One question I had been very eager to ask revolved around the somewhat obscure history of Wing Chun. One of many creation legends has it that Wing Chun was born where many forms of kung fu are said to have originated, at the famed Shaolin Temple in China.

During the reign of Qing Emperor Kangxi (1662~1722), troops were sent

to destroy the monastery for supposed anti-Qing activities. Only five of the Shaolin elders escaped the carnage and went into hiding, including a nun named Wu Mei. With them they took their extensive knowledge of kung fu. Later, it is said, Wu Mei fled to White Crane Temple in southern China, where she observed a scuffle between a snake and crane. This prompted her to incorporate the dexterous and efficient moves of these two animals in her Shaolin kung fu – the creation of Wing Chun.

From the beginning, Wing Chun was used for both protection and aggression.

This martial-art form, often used in revolts against the Qing, needed to be learned both quickly and efficiently by students during the period of its developmental stage. According to Master Lo, Wing Chun was created by the Han Chinese in order to survive the oppression of the alien Manchu Qing as they extended their rule over southern China.

Over the years several different Wing Chun lineages have evolved. Master Lo became quite demonstrative when relating his account of the history of his own lineage. He began with tales of espionage and the famous Red Boat Opera Company, which originated in the city of Foshan in southern China’s Guangdong Province. In the mid-19th century members of this company, who opposed Qing rule, used their identities as Chinese-opera performers as a cover for martial-arts training. Under the leadership of Wong Wah-bo and Leung Yee-tai (who were the troupe’s performers of the lead male and female roles in its operas), they were able to refine their Wing Chun techniques, many of which are still practiced today.

From this lineage, the well-known master Yip Man was trained and the skills were later transferred to Master Lo, a nephew of Yip Man. (Note: The names and other terms associated with Wing Chun are commonly transliterations from Cantonese rather than Mandarin Chinese.) aster Lo’s Yoda-like physique may appear unimposing, but this conceals decades of experience and training in perhaps one of the most effective forms of the martial arts.

He began studying Chinese kung fu in Foshan at the age of 13. In 1950, when he was 18, he made the transition to Wing Chun under his maternal uncle, Yip Man. This legendary master is considered to be one of the best practitioners of Wing Chun to ever exist, a reason why two Chineselanguage movies (“Ip Man” and “Ip Man 2”) have been produced in his honor in recent years. Yip Man was Bruce Lee’s Wing Chun teacher; Master Lo mentioned that after Lee lost several fights he came to Yip Man and asked to become his student. “The master was very welcoming and laid-back,” remembered Master Lo. A member of Yip Man’s first class of students, Master Lo trained under his uncle for 10 years in Hong Kong before moving to Taiwan in 1960,

M

Foreigners from around the world practice with Master Lo

Travel in Taiwan

July • August 2010 47

MY LOCAL FRIENDS

Demonstrating the one-finger push-up

The master’s school evokes the humble beginnings of the typical protagonist in a kung fu movie On the floor there are hexagons drawn for students to develop their chi sao drills, which can be translated as “sticky hands.” This form of exercise teaches students to feel an opponent in order to determine where the next attack might come from. had the opportunity to observe Master Lo’s morning class and it left quite an impression. The class was focused on advanced students assisting new students with different techniques.

“Class is like a family,” explained Master Lo as he walked around critiquing his students, who came from all corners of the world. Many were visiting Taiwan solely for the sake of training with Master Lo. On the rooftop studio, students were hard at work with various Wing Chun forms. Some were busy sparring with each other using “sticky hands,” while others were taking turns at the wooden dummy. All the while the ubiquitous Lo watched, at times bringing the students together for a short lesson. Though very no-nonsense, the master has a sense of humor.

Throughout our time together Lo laced his dialog with amusing anecdotes, and even demonstrated the one-finger pushup, a difficult feat for someone his age.

Master Lo: “No one can touch you – that is good kung fu” where he continued to practice and refine his talent. After arriving he spent a short time studying at university before entering the army, undertaking three years of special-forces military training and eventually achieving the rank of major before being honorably discharged.

Soon after leaving his distinguished career as a military officer Master Lo began his Wing Chun teaching. His school, located in the Songshan District of Taipei, evokes the humble beginnings 48 July • August 2010

Travel in Taiwan

of the typical protagonist in a kung fu movie. Classes, held on a building rooftop under a tin canopy, involve students working with traditional Wing Chun training equipment as well as with each other. In one corner of the large open-air space is the famous muk yan jong , or wooden dummy (lit. “wooden man post”). This is the classical Wing Chun tool for the practice of a range of upper-body strikes. Wall bags are hung for students to practice Wing Chun’s signature “one-inch punch.”

Photos / Daemon Lee

I

I later asked what was unique about Wing Chun and its training. Master Lo stated that Wing Chun emphasizes actual reactions centered on feelings rather than concentrating on techniques and forms. Students learn to trust the feelings generated by their bodies rather than what they see with their eyes. Chi sao is a non-cooperative exercise which allows students to react to unexpected situations rather than simply going through choreographed movements.

Wing Chun focuses more on agility and skill rather than brute force, and is first and foremost about protecting yourself.

Students of all ages and sizes can thus be effective with the proper training. As Master Lo elegantly put it, “No one can touch you – that is good kung fu.”

As a consequence of his mastery of Wing Chun and his numerous awards and achievements, Master Lo’s reputation as a legendary teacher has not only spread throughout Asia but also through Europe, the Americas, Australia, and even Africa. Over the years the master has taught thousands of students from across the globe. Many of his students have gone on to compete in martial-arts competitions, with excellent results. He has been the teacher of celebrated kung fu movie stars, sons of foreign ambassadors, and the grandson of the late Chiang Kai-shek. Since 1991 Master Lo has also been an advisor for the Taiwan national police force, and

Though very no-nonsense, the master also has a good sense of humor

in 1992 he helped form Taiwan’s first SWAT team.

Though he has received many lucrative offers to teach abroad, one from the royal family of Brunei, Master Lo prefers to teach at his residence in Taipei. Currently he gives day and evening classes, with the morning sessions for more advanced students. He encourages anyone interested to stop by and observe a class. The atmosphere is very welcoming and relaxed, and if what you see interests you, feel free to join up.

ENGLISH & CHINESE

chi sao Foshan Leung Yee-tai Lo Man Kam muk yan jong Red Boat Opera Company Shaolin Temple Songshan District White Crane Temple Wing Chun Wong Wah-bo Wu Mei Yip Man

黐手 佛山 梁二娣 盧文錦 木人樁 紅船戲班 少林寺 松山區 白鶴寺 詠春 黃華寶 五梅 葉問

LO MAN KAM WING CHUN SCHOOL

ADD: 5F, 31, Alley 51, Lane 12, Bade Rd., Sec. 3,

Taipei City

台北市八德路三段12巷51弄31號 5樓

TEL: (02) 2577-4323

FESTIVAL

With a fractured community healed by means of a joint religious event, great food, ghosts, and a lantern and fireworks celebration at the end, Keelung’s Mid-Summer Ghost Festival has all the elements of a great story.

Zhupu Altar in Keelung

"Grappling with Ghosts" in Yilan

50 July • August 2010

Travel in Taiwan

HERE COME THE

GOOD BRETHREN Peace, Reconciliation, and a Good Party – With Human and Ghostly Participants

By Mark Caltonhill

Photos / Vision Int'l

A

lthough Keelung’s principal role has always been that of Taipei’s main harbor, it does not fall under the capital city’s jurisdiction, and its people are proud of their independence and the town’s long and interesting history. Anciently home to the Ketagalan group of plains aborigines, it was a trading base for both the Spanish and the Dutch in the 17th century, became a major port under the Qing Dynasty Chinese, was briefly occupied by French forces during the Sino-French War of 1884-5, and was the site near which the Japanese landed to take possession of their newly acquired colony in 1895.

Keelung (more accurately romanized as “Jilong”; the “K” comes from an earlier romanization) is a bustling city still largely dependent on the economy of the harbor, but is best known among fellow Taiwanese for its year-round Miaokou (Temple Entrance) Night Market and the month-long MidSummer Ghost Festival.

The seventh lunar month (which begins in August or early September) is known as Ghost Month throughout the Chinese-speaking world. According to popular religious tradition – a unique confluence of Buddhist and Daoist rituals – the Gates of Hell open on the first day of this month and close on

the last day. This means that spirits of the deceased are free to wander the Earth and, especially the “hungry ghosts” (more commonly called “good brethren”), to cause trouble. Elaborate ceremonies and fabulous feasts are prepared to satiate them.

During Ghost Month spirits of the deceased are free to wander the Earth These celebrations take different forms in different places around Taiwan.

Two of the most unusual are in Yilan County’s Toucheng Township, where teams of young men compete to climb high up greased poles and bamboo lattices to “grapple with ghosts,” and in Badouzi, one of Keelung’s smaller fishing harbors. In this latter spectacle large and elaborate floating lanterns are set on fire and launched onto the sea, where they float for a while before sinking.

Perhaps it is not surprising that these festivities take place in Toucheng and Keelung, since both are seafaring communities and the ghosts of people who die by drowning are said to be particularly unfortunate in the netherworld and therefore especially troublesome when in the world of the living.

T

he Keelung event takes place on the evening of the 14th day of the 7th lunar month, but for the whole month

the city is in party mood. Key activities, starting with the ceremonial opening of the gates of a tower housing funereal urns at Laodagong Temple (37, Lane 76, Le 1st Rd.) are televised nationwide.

The main event of the 14th day (which this year falls on August 23rd) starts with a street parade of decorated floats. In addition to their various themes, each of the floats bears a single Chinese character.

This represents the family name of its sponsor, and further illustrates the unique nature of this event.

Early Chinese colonization of Taiwan was by rebels and outlaws as well as by farmers, fishermen, and traders, and even after it was incorporated within the empire the island was very much a frontier territory where rule of law was not always established. Clashes between immigrants and aborigines were common, but so too were conflicts between Hakka and Fujianese Chinese, as well as between other different subgroups of the Chinese settlers. Particularly notorious were confrontations between descendants of Hoklo-speaking immigrants from the Quanzhou and Zhangzhou regions of Fujian Province. These erupted from time to time in Keelung, with one particularly nasty clash in 1851 causing around 100 fatalities.

Travel in Taiwan

July • August 2010 51

FESTIVAL It was in an attempt to heal the community’s wounds that this annual event to honor the dead from such fighting was organized, and the urns in the Laodagong Temple tower are said to include some with the remains of those who died in 1851. Since members of both warring groups shared many of the same family names, those seeking to make peace decided the festival should be based around surname teams. Thus the floats’ insignia.

The annual event was started as an attempt to heal the community’s wounds by honoring the dead from internecine fighting

A

fter touring the town and passing a platform of dignitaries, the floats make their way southeastward along the coast to Badouzi. They are followed by a large crowd of citizens, most on foot; others ride bikes or scooters, or take a shuttle bus or taxi, along the route of a few kilometers. At the fishing harbor the large, decorated lanterns are taken off the floats and arranged for inspection.

Many display legends connected with their sponsoring families.

Fireworks whiz into the air, snacks are sold from itinerant stalls, and the party atmosphere grows in intensity until, around 11 pm, teams of men hoist the lanterns onto their shoulders, make their way to the edge of the water and then into it up to shoulder height and,

finally, cast the lanterns adrift. These float silently out, catch fire and sink.

Around midnight everyone sets off home or back to Keelung downtown, where the Miaokou Night Market does good business until well into the small hours.

For two weeks before and another two weeks after this main event, various international and domestic arts performances and exhibitions are held throughout Keelung in theaters, halls, government buildings, and hotels, and on street-side stages. Last year’s activities included drama, dancing, Taiwanese opera, puppetry, drumming, martial arts, children’s shows, traditional and modern music, circus-style tricks and acrobatics, calligraphy and watercolor painting, photography and art competitions, folk singing, quizzes, and more. There were also a Taiwanese language-study camp and tours of ROC Navy ships stationed at the port. ndeed, Keelung’s harbor makes it an interesting place to visit year round. For an experience not common in Taiwan, visitors may take a Keelung Harbor tour from opposite the railway station or from Bisha Fishing Port (tickets NT$400; tel: 0910-091-043). The tour heads out around Keelung Island and takes about one hour.

Back on land, the Keelung Story

I

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Zh

Keelung City Hall

52 July • August 2010

Travel in Taiwan

. Y i2

Tourist Z Information hong 1st Center Rd

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Miaokou Night Mar

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Keelung Story Hous

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Keelung Station

Zhongzheng Park

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Keelung Harbor

to Baimiweng Fort

City

House (keelungstory.klccab.gov.tw; 181 Xin 1st Rd.; tel: [02] 2422-4170), located next door to the city government building, has introductions to the area’s history, ecology, people, coal mining – and Steve McQueen, who starred in the Oscarnominated “The Sand Pebbles” that was partially filmed in Keelung in 1966. It is also a source of maps and information leaflets about local attractions.

Of particular interest to Western visitors is the French Cemetery (at 101 Zhongzheng Road), which contains the remains of around 600 soldiers and sailors who died trying to invade Taiwan as part of the Sino-French War. Some died of battle-related injuries, but the majority of malaria, cholera, dysentery, and other diseases. Hemmed in by apartment buildings on one side, the graveyard is open to the public.

The Chinese were successful in repelling the first French attack on Keelung, in large part thanks to the fortifications built or renovated by Liu Ming-chuan, who went on to become Taiwan’s first provincial governor. The French occupied the city for eight months after a successful second attack. Remains exist that can be visited, at Ershawan Fort,

Xin

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At Miaokou Night Market

Famous Keelung snack food

Liyu Lake

Photos / Vision Int'l, Peggy Yang

Baimiweng Fort, Dawulun Fort to the west of town, and Gangzailiao Fort to the east.

Sheliao East Fort on Heping Island was added during the early years of Japanese rule. Getting there takes one through a hillside community of the indigenous Amis tribe, some of whose members have migrated from further down the east coast over recent years. Their small conurbation tells more about contemporary aboriginal life than the nearby Aboriginal Culture Museum (75, Lane 116, Zhengbin Rd.), which introduces the cultures and material artifacts of all of Taiwan’s indigenous groups.

to provide special offers, as are hotels, despite having their best occupancy rates of the year. Although Keelung is close to Taipei, many people opt to stay in local accommodations, especially on the night of the lunar month’s 14th day, as the floating-lantern highlight finishes around midnight. One very close option is the Blue Ocean Hotel (www. blueoceanhotel.com.tw) at Bisha Fishing Harbor, which has double rooms with Internet provision and breakfast (from McDonald’s) from NT$1,980 (NT$2,580 with sea view). Back in downtown Keelung, harbor views are available at the Harbour View Hotel (www.hhotel.com.tw), Scenic sights are of with Internet and buffet breakfast, from secondary importance for NT$4,000 (NT$2,600 without the view).

Discounts are available, but reservations most local visitors, who come on weekends and during the Mid-Summer to Keelung for its food Ghost Festival are essential at both.

As mentioned, however, these sights Getting to Keelung is straightforward: are of secondary importance for most Commuter trains run several times each local visitors, who come to Keelung hour from Taipei (30 min; NT$43), and for its food. Specialties of the Miaokou buses run to and from most places in northern Taiwan. For those participating Night Market include Taiwan’s take on in Taiwan’s current cycle craze, most of Japanese tempura, tianfuluo, “pot-side noodles,” and oyster omelets. The town’s the 35-km route from Taipei is along the gently sloped bike path that follows the seafood is also popular, with many Keelung River. people heading to Bisha Fishing Port to For further information on buy the freshly landed catch. tourist sights, accommodation, and uring Ghost Month, Keelung’s food transportation, visit the official Keelung and drink outlets are encouraged City website at www. klcg.gov.tw.

D

ENGLISH & CHINESE Aboriginal Culture Museum 原住民文化會館 阿美族 Amis Tribe 八斗子 Badouzi 白米甕砲台 Baimiweng Fort 碧砂漁港 Bisha Fishing Port 大武崙砲台 Dawulun Fort 二沙灣砲台 Ershawan Fort 槓仔寮砲台 Gangzailiao Fort 鬼門 Gates of Hell 鬼月 Ghost Month 好兄弟 "good brethren" 搶孤 "grapple with ghosts" 和平島 Heping Island 餓鬼 hungry ghost 基隆 Keelung 基隆嶼 Keelung Island 基隆故事館 Keelung Story House 凱達格蘭 Ketagalan 老大公廟 Laodagong Temple 劉銘傳 Liu Ming-chuan 廟口夜市 Miaokou (Temple Entrance) Night Market Mid-Summer Ghost Festival 中元祭 蚵仔煎 oyster omelet 平埔族 plains aborigines 鼎邊趖 "pot-side noodles" 泉州 Quanzhou 社寮東砲台 Sheliao East Fort 天婦羅 tianfuluo 頭城 Toucheng Township 宜蘭縣 Yilan County 漳州 Zhangzhou 中正路 Zhongzheng Road

Travel in Taiwan

July • August 2010 53

Advertisement HOTEL INFORMATION

Hotels of Taiwan

V

isitors to Taiwan have a wide range of choice when it comes

to accommodation. From five-star luxury hotels that meet the highest international standards, to affordable business hotels, to hot-spring and beach resort hotels, to privately-run homestays located in the countryside there is a place to stay that satisfies every traveler’s needs. What all hotels of Taiwan – small and big, expensive and affordable – have in common is that serve and hospitality are always of the highest standards.

The room rates in the following list have been checked for each hotel, but are subject to change without notice.

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NO. OF ROOMS: 203 ROOM RATES: Deluxe Room Business Room Executive Deluxe Room Boss Suite Premier Suite

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2010_07-08_飯店名錄.indd 54

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July • August 2010

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Tel: 02.8780.8000 Fax: 02.8780.5000 E-mail: pbc.taipei@msa.hinet.net

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NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$

3,200 ~ 3,500 4,000 ~ 5,000 4,000 4,500 4,800 ~ 5,000 7,000 ~ 10,000 4,300

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK: Chinese, Japanese, English, Cantonese RESTAURANTS: Shanghainese,

Cantonese, Taiwanese snacks, Jiangzhe cuisine, Gelato Café, coffee shop

SPECIAL FEATURES: Conference rooms, flower shop, barber shop, souvenir shop, parking area 43, Chunghsiao (Zhongxiao) W. Rd., Sec. 1, Taipei City, 100 (MRT Taipei Main Station, Exit 3) 100台北市忠孝西路一段4 3號 (台北捷運總 站3號出口)

Tel: 02.2311.5151 Fax: 02.2331.9944 E-mail: info_tpe@caesarpark.com.tw

Tel: 02.2361.7856 Fa x: 02.2311.8921 Reser vation Hotline: 02.2311.8901 Reser vation Fa x: 02.2311.8902 E-mail: cosmos@cosmos-hotel.com.tw

taipei.caesarpark.com.tw

www.cosmos-hotel.com.tw

Travel in Taiwan

2010/06/25 下午 04:15:14

Advertisement HOTEL INFORMATION

GLORIA PRINCE HOTEL TAIPEI 華 泰 王 子大 飯 店

Taipei 台 北

NO. OF ROOMS: 220 ROOM RATES: Deluxe / Single / Twin & Double NT$ 7,800~8,500 Suite NT$ 9,500~20,000

SUNWORLD DYNASTY HOTEL TAIPEI NO. OF ROOMS: 738 ROOM RATES: Deluxe Room NT$ 7,700 Premier Room Junior Suite Deluxe Suite Executive Suite

NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$

8,200 9,200 11,500 17,500

EXECUTIVE CLUB FLOOR

Deluxe Room Premier Room Deluxe Suite Executive Suite

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK: Chinese, English, Japanese RESTAURANTS: La Fontaine (Western), Chiou Hwa (Chinese)

Taipei 台 北

王朝大酒店

NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$

9,000 9,500 15,000 21,000

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK: Chinese, Japanese, English

SPECIAL FEATURES: Coffee Shop, Fitness Center, Business Center, laundry service, meeting and banquet facilities, non-smoking floor, parking lot, airport transfer service

369 Lin-sen (Linsen) N. Rd., Taipei City, 104 104台北市林森北路3 69號

Tel: 02.2581.8111

RESTAURANTS: Le Parc Café, Magnolia Court, Canton Palace

SPECIAL FEATURES: 738 large-size guest

rooms with high ceilings, incl. 42 suites.

Grand lobby entrance with magnificent atrium.

Outdoor swimming pool heated during winter.

Fully equipped gym, fitness center, sauna, and aerobics room. Fully equipped business center.

Hi-speed broadband Internet access. Safety deposit box. Express laundry service. Limousine service, airport pick-up. State-ofthe-art audiovisual equipment.

100 Dun Hua North Road, Taipei Taiwan R.O.C. 台北市敦化北路100號

Fax: 02.2581.5811, 2568-2924

Tel: 02.2719.7199 Fa x: 02.2545.9288 E-mail: bc@sunworlddynasty.com.tw

www.gloriahotel.com

www.sunworlddynasty.com

SEASONS HOTEL GROUP 皇家四季飯店集團

Taipei 台 北

SEASONS HOTEL CLASSIC

NO. OF ROOMS: 64 ROOM RATES: NT$ 5,000 ~ 8,000

SEASONS HOTEL ROYAL

NO. OF ROOMS: 49 ROOM RATES: NT$ 5,500 ~ 9,500

SEASONS HOTEL HOT SPRING/VENUS HOT SPRING HOUSE

NO. OF ROOMS: 30/32 ROOM RATES: NT$ 8,000 ~ 11,000/NT$ 3,500 (All rates are subject to 10% service charge)

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK:

Chinese, English, Japanese

SPECIAL FEATURES: L'OCCITANE Bath &

Shower amenities, Italian Jacuzzi bathtub (Classic & Royal), complimentary in-room Internet access/ all TV channels, complimentary Internet/coffee/ tea/instant noodles service at lounge area, free shuttle bus to MRT Stations

326/330 Nanjing W. Rd., Taipei City 103 (Seasons Hotel Classic/Royal) 台北市南京西路326/330號 (經典館/皇家館) 26, Zhongshan Rd., Beitou, Taipei City 112 (Seasons Hotel Hot Spring) 台北市北投區中山路26號 Reservation Hotline: 886.2. 2558.6488 E-mail: rsvn@taiwanseasonshotel.com

www.taiwanseasonshotel.com

SINJHUANG CHATEAU DE CHINE HOTEL 新莊翰品酒店

Taipei 台北

NO. OF ROOMS: 145 ROOM RATES: Superior Single Room NT$ 5,800 Superior Twin Room NT$ 6,000 Business Single Room NT$ 6,600 Deluxe Single Room NT$ 6,800 Deluxe Twin Room NT$ 7,000 Superior Family Room NT$ 7,200 Deluxe Family Room NT$ 7,600 Executive Suite NT$ 12,000 Chateau de Chine Suite NT$ 20,000 GENERAL MANAGER: Willis Lin DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK: English,Chinese, Japanese SPECIAL FEATURES:Conference/banquet hall accommodating up to 200 people, gym, sauna, recreation, VIP lounge, business center, free Internet access, laundry service, intelligent room control system, limousine rental, and pick up service

TAIPEI GALA HOTEL

SAN WANT RESIDENCES TAIPEI Taipei 台 北

慶泰大飯店 NO. OF ROOMS: 160 ROOM RATES:

Single Room Deluxe Single Room Deluxe Twin Room Suite Room

NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$

3,800 4,000 4,200 5,600

Studio Room Park View Room Deluxe Suite Park View Suite Penthouse

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK:

www.chateaudechine.com

NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$

8,000~ 8,800~ 12,600~ 20,000~ 50,000

9,000 9,800 13,600 21,000

English, Japanese, Chinese

RESTAURANTS: Golden Ear Restaurant

(Western semi buffet); Hong Kong Restaurant (Cantonese food)

SPECIAL FEATURES: Business Center, meeting rooms, airport transfer service, parking lot, laundry service, free Internet access, LCD TV, DVD player, personal safety box, mini bar, private bathroom with separate shower & bath tub, hair dryer

186 Songjiang Rd., Taipei City,104 104台北市松江路18 6號

RESTAURANTS: Dining Lounge (Buffet Breakfast & Shanghai Cuisine)

SPECIAL FEATURES: A Member of Small

Luxury Hotels of the World, Showcase of Contemporary Taiwanese Art Collections, Personal Secretarial Assistance, All Day Free Coffee and Snack at the Lounge, Fitness Center, Free Wireless Internet Access in Guestrooms and Public Areas, Free Rental of Business Cell Phone, Complimentary 24-hour Shoeshine Service, 37” LCD TV, Pants Presser & Suit Rack, Multi-Functional Fax/Jet Printer, Sunken Bathtub

Tel: 02.2541.5511 Fax: 02.2531.3831 Reservation Hotline: 02.2541.6888 E-mail: galahtl@ms18.hinet.net

128 Nanjing East Rd., Sec. 1, Taipei City, 104

www.galahotel.com.tw

www.swresidences.com

ONSEN PAPAWAQA

FORTUNE HYATT HOTEL 福君海悅大飯店

Taipei 台 北

Miaoli 苗 栗

泰安觀止 NO. OF ROOMS: 68

NO. OF ROOMS: 200 ROOM RATES: Standard Room Superior Room Superior Triple Room Superior Family Room Deluxe Room Deluxe Triple Room Deluxe Family Room Haiyatt Executive Suite Fortune Executive Suite

104台北市南京東路一段128號

Tel: 02.2511.5185 Fax: 02.2511.1585 E-mail: reservation@swresidences.com

NT$ 3,400 NT$ 3,700 NT$ 4,600 NT$ 5,800 NT$ 4,300 NT$ 6,000 NT$ 7,200 NT$ 9,000 NT$ 10,800

ROOM RATES:

Guanxing Room Guanyue Room Guanzhi Room Guanyun Room Guanshui Room Guanzhi Suite Guanri Suite Guanshan Suite

NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$

6,600 7,500 8,500 9,900 13,500 10,000 11,000 13,500

QUNSHAN VILLA

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK:

Guanwu Room NT$ Guanwu Suite NT$ Guanwu Suite NT$

English, Japanese, Cantonese, Mandarin, Taiwanese.

RESTAURANTS: Buffet breakfast,

English-style afternoon tea, Western roof garden restaurant

SPECIAL FEATURES: Business center,

meeting rooms, gym, car park, multifunctional banquet hall, wireless broadband Internet access, limousine service between hotel and airport / high-speed rail station

103台北市重 慶北路一段62號

Tel: 02.2555.1122 Fax: 02.2556.6217 Reservation Hotline: 02.2559.0723 Reservation Fax: 02.2559.0720 E-mail: info@fortunehaiyatthotel.com

www.fortunehaiyatthotel.com

12,000 15,000 18,000

SPECIAL FEATURES: Restaurant, meeting room, open-air hot-spring pool, private hot-spring pools, open-air swimming pool, SPA treatment, multi-functional entertainment room, gym, WII game, car park, hiking trails 58 Yuandun, Jinshuei Village, Tai-an Township, Miaoli County 苗栗縣泰安鄉錦水村圓墩58號

Tel: 037.941.777 FA X: 037.941.952 E-mail: ser vice@papawaga.com

www.papawaqa.com.tw

Travel in Taiwan

2010_07-08_飯店名錄.indd 55

Taipei 台 北

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK:

English, Japanese, Chinese

62 Chongqing N. Rd., Sec. 1, Taipei City, 103

82, Jhongzheng Rd., Sinjhuang City, Taipei County 24243, Taiwan 24 24 3 台北 縣 新 莊 市中正 路 8 2 號 Tel: 02.8994.1234 Fax: 02.8994.3000

台北神旺商務酒店 NO. OF ROOMS: 81 ROOM RATES:

July • August 2010

2010/06/25 下午 04:16:12

Advertisement HOTEL INFORMATION

FLEUR DE CHINE HOTEL 雲品酒店

Sun Moon Lake 日月潭

NO. OF ROOMS: 211 ROOM RATES: Mountain View King Room NT$ Mountain View Two Queen Room NT$ Zen Mountain View Room NT$ Lake View King Room NT$ Lake View Two Queen Room NT$ Washiki Lake View Room NT$ Royal Lake View Suite NT$ Governor Lake View Suite NT$ Summit Lake View Suite NT$ Penthouse Suite NT$

ALISHAN HOUSE

HUALIEN CITY CLASSIC RESORT HOTEL Chiayi 嘉 義

阿里山賓館 NO. OF ROOMS: 35

11,500 ~ 12,500 11,500 ~ 12,500 11,500 ~ 12,500 13,000 ~ 14,000 13,000 ~ 14,000 13,000 ~ 14,000 16,000 ~ 17,000 18,000 88,000 120,000

GENERAL MANAGER: Wayne Ho DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK: English,Chinese, Japanese SPECIAL FEATURES:270∘Panorama Lake

View Sky Lounge, Mountain Mist Spring, Zen House, Water World, aromatherapy, pythoncidere walk, children’s playground, outdoor circular concourse, pet room, boutique, gym, business center, banquet/conference hall, wireless broadband internet services, intelligent room control system, balconies with scenic views, individual hot-spring pools in room, pickup from HSR station

ROOM RATES:

Scenery Suite Honey Suite Fragrant Suite Superior Suite VIP Suite

花蓮 經 典假日飯 店

Hualien 花 蓮

(Prices above not including 10% Service Charge)

GENERAL MANAGER: Mr. Jen-Shing Chen DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK:

Chinese, English, Japanese

RESTAURANTS: Chinese, Café, Courtyard SPECIAL FEATURES:

Broadband Internet access in guestrooms, business center, Souvenir Shop, Gazebo, 1950’s dance hall, foot massage

16 Chunlin Village, Alishan Township, Chiayi County, 605

ROOM RATES: Standard Room Superior Twin Superior Triple Superior Double Twin Superior Suite Classic Suite

NT$ 4,000 NT$ 4,200 NT$ 4,800 NT$ 5,600 NT$ 6,000 NT$ 10,000

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK: Chinese, English, Japanese

RESTAURANTS:Chinese, Western, and Inter-

national cuisine, afternoon tea

SPECIAL FEATURES:1/2F public area with unlimited Internet access, broadband Internet access in guestrooms, notebooks available at meeting room, free self-help coffee and tea, free parking, central location (5-min. walk to railway station), pick-up service, projector and screen available at conference room, newspapers and magazines, LCD screen TV-sets

Tel: 049.285.5500 Fax: 049.285.6600

E-mail: office@alishanhouse.com.tw

139 Guolian 5th Rd., Hualien City, 970 970 花蓮市國聯五路139號 Tel: 03.835.9966 Fax: 03.835.9977 Reservation: 03.833.6066 E-mail: service@classichotel.com.tw

www.fleurdechinehotel.com

www.alishanhouse.com.tw

www.classichotel.com.tw

23, Zhongzheng Rd., Sun Moon Lake, Yuchi Township, Nantou County 55546 5 5 5 4 6 南 投 縣 魚 池 鄉日月潭中正 路2 3 號

2010_07-08_飯店名錄.indd 56

605嘉義縣阿里山鄉香林村16號 ALISHAN Tel: 05.267.9811 Fax: 05.267.9596 TAIPEI Tel: 02.2563.5259 Fax: 02.2536.5563

Yilan 宜 蘭

蘭城晶英酒店 NO. OF ROOMS: 193 ROOM RATES:

NO. OF ROOMS: 79 NT$ 6,600 NT$ 6,600 NT$ 8,600 NT$ 9,500 NT$ 12,000

SILKS PLACE YILAN

Lan Zone Holiday Zone Sky Villa Zone Boutique Zone Corner Zone

NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$

9,600 13,600~30,000 13,600~40,000 14,000~30,000 22,000~80,000

(Hotel rooms divided into five specialized zones using the concept of “a hotel within a hotel”) (All rates are subject to 10% service charge)

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK:

English, Japanese, Chinese

RESTAURANTS:

Mix Gourmet Buffet Restaurant, The Lounge, Red Lantern Chinese Restaurant

SPECIAL FEATURES: International Ballroom, Multi-functional Meeting Rooms, Conference Service Center, Events Management Service Center, Power Fitness Club, Wellspring Spa, Outdoor Garden, Safe Deposit, Valet Parking, Laundry Service, Free Internet Access

36 Minquan Rd., Sec. 2 Yilan City, 260 260宜蘭市民權路二段36號

Tel: 03.935.1000 Fax: 03.935.4000 E-mail: rsvn@silksplace-yilan.com.tw

www.silksplace-yilan.com.tw

2010/06/25 下午 04:16:24

River-Tracing in Hualien

A Challenge Awaits You! In the many river valleys formed by the movement of tectonic plates in Taiwan, the rivers are short and the drops are big. Their wide distribution makes Taiwan’s natural environment perfectly suited for river-tracing. Located on the east coast, Hualien in particular has earned the title “Kingdom of River-Tracing” for its diverse landscape of river valleys, deep pools, waterfalls, and gorges, making it the island’s most concentrated area of river-tracing activity. Hualien also offers various land-, air-, and sea-based adventures including whale-watching, rafting, snorkeling, hiking, canoeing, mountain biking, surfing, paragliding, and aviation.

River-tracing is an activity that can combine mountain climbing, rock climbing, camping, swimming, rappeling, survival, orienteering, and ecotourism. River-tracing routes are categorized from A to F to indicate increasing level of difficulty.

At Hualien you can find A-, B-, and C-level trails:

A Beginner B

I want a bit more risk!

C

Extreme!

Fountain of Jade, Baibao River

A trail for beginners where jade can be readily found.

Diving Paradise, Shapodang River

A place to enjoy rock-climbing, waterfall-climbing, diving, swimming, and SPA fun.

Golden Valley

This, top river-tracing site in Taiwan, requires a combination of physical ability and survival skills. A worthwhile trip, this stalactite valley has earned the nickname “Little Taroko.”

Adventure Tourist of Peace, founded in 1980 as the first professional adventure tourism group in Hualien, offers river tracing as well as diving, rock climbing, canoeing, mountain climbing, and eco-tourism trips, as well as diving lessons and certification.

Come to Hualien and explore nature together!

Tour Information

Half-Day Tours Morning 08:00 ~ 12:00, Afternoon 13:30 ~ 16:30 Level A: Baibao River from NT$1,000 Level B: Shapodang River from NT$1,000 Including guide and transportation; river-tracing boots, helmet, live vest, wetsuit, accident insurance (NT$2 million), injury insurance (NT$200,000) Tea Time (coffee in the valley, handmade cookies)

One-Day Tours Level B: Shapodang River from NT$2,000 Level C: Golden Valley from NT$2,400 Including guide and transportation; river-tracing boots, helmet, live vest, wetsuit, accident insurance (NT$2 million), injury insurance (NT$200,000) Tea Time (coffee in the valley, handmade cookies), lunch

Adventure Tourist of Peace (和平冒險旅遊學校 ) Tel.: 886-3-832-6444, 886-917-982-433 (Mr. Kim) Fax: 886-3-834-4831 Add: 341, Heping Rd., Hualien City (花蓮市和平路341號) Website: heping.emmm.tw E-Mail: peace.diving@msa.hinet.net Note: When making reservations, overnight-stays can be arranged and tours can be planned ISSN:18177964

GPN:2009305475

200 NTD