May 2018 by Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia

Southeast asia

may 2017

Escape to Bohol

Isolated, idyllic Mentawai

Going Green on Langkawi

Singapore S$7.90 / Hong Kong HK$43 Thailand THB175 / Indonesia IDR50,000 Malaysia MYR18 / Vietnam VND85,000 Macau MOP44 / Philippines PHP240 Burma MMK35 / Cambodia KHR22,000 Brunei BND7.90 / Laos LAK52,000

Asiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Beach Bars

May

ON THE COVER At the Amun Ini Beach Resort and Spa, in Bohol, Philippines. Photographer: Francisco Guerrero. Stylist: Guada Reyes. Model: Jennifer Piccinato, LVX Models. Swimsuit: Bhig Buda.

features

Seafaring Souls A remote archipelago off western Sumatra is home to a surf break of mythical proportions, and shamans whose real lives seem the stuff of legend. By Fraser Morton. Photographed by Eszter Papp

Solid Gold After a long absence, Ian Lloyd Neubauer finds newly minted and vintage treasures on the Gold Coast.

c l o c k w i s e F R O M t o p LE F T: e s z t e r pa p p ; i a n l l o y d n e u b a u e r ; fr a n c i s c o g u e rr e r o ; s i m o n wat s o n

74 86 104 96

Pure Philippines Bohol lingers under the mass-tourism radar. Stephanie Zubiri explains why it’s just the place you’ve been looking for. Photographed by Francisco Guerrero

104

Close to the Land In Cornwall, always a place apart from the rest of England, a new generation of chefs, farmers and fishermen transforms this coastal corner into a culinary Eden. By Jeff Chu. Photographed by Simon Watson

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In Every Issue

T+L Digital 8 Contributors 10 Editor’s Note 12 The Conversation 14 Deals 70 Wish You Were Here 114

departments Here+Now

Beyond

Special

17 Mornington Magic Expect to be

29 An Island Away A new

55 Umbrella Drinks It doesn’t get

transformed when you check in to the Jackalope on Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula.

visitors—and money—pouring

20 Making Waves With tons of

into Phu Quoc and the opening of its first international luxury hotel, the once-languid Vietnamese island is on the verge of a major transformation.

Indonesian private-island resort near Singapore shines a light on the many tropical pursuits a short distance from the city.

Adrian Zecha talks about his bold new property in Luang Prabang.

40 Chasing Calm Sleepy Tangalle,

on the south coast of Sri Lanka, is getting new investments on its perfect sands. Head there soon, before you have to share the waves.

the ocean to the roof of the

Upgrade 65 The New Goodwill Tour More

travelers are spending their money—and limited vacation days—on trips that help make the world a better place. Read our guide on how you can join them.

46 Brazil’s Quiet Side Three

cocktail while looking out over the ocean, but the best beach bars offer more than just booze and tunes with a view. We present a round up of favorite destinations for seaside sundowners, and which bars do it best.

34 Azerai Rises Hotel legend

24 Seas to Trees From the edge of jungle, two new tours offer frontrow seats to the theater of natural wonders on the lush island of Langkawi.

much better than sipping a

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fantastic hotels are luring travelers away from the beach and into the mountains.

F R O M LE F T: c o u r t e s y o f j a c k a l o p e ; l e o m c h u g h ; l a u r y n i s h a k ; p o r n s a k n a n a k o r n

A taste of tropical luxury on the magical island of Bali

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ITDC Complex lot N5, Bali 80363 | +62 361 849 2888 | H9078@sofitel.com | www.sofitel.com

Lookout

this month on tr avelandleisureasia.com Sky-High Dining at Artemis in Singapore Colombian chef Fernando Arevalo’s seasonally driven, utterly inspired tasting menus are a revelation.

4 after-Dark gems in kuala lumpur The Malaysian capital’s nocturnal scene keeps booming, thanks to inventive new cocktail bars and clubs.

Java’s Thriving Art Scene A land of fiery volcanoes and mystical temples, the Indonesian isle is also home to a vibrant artistic community.

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contributors

Francisco Guerrero

Stephanie Zubiri

Pure Philippines Page 96 — “Bohol is a great microcosm of the Philippines,” Guerrero says. For dive spots, he picks Balicasag and Pamilacan. “The further of the two islands is Pamilacan, about an hour’s boat ride from Panglao. The majority is a marine sanctuary, with no fishing and no diving areas. But you can snorkel, and it is simply spectacular, teeming with marine life and coral gardens.” Above ground, “the Chocolate Hills probably top most people’s to-do lists, but I need to watch the sunset at the Baclayon pier. The sky turns into deep purple and all the locals come out to have a swim or just take a stroll.” Instagram: @studioguerrero.

Pure Philippines Page 96 — Manila-based Zubiri headed back to Bohol for colonial history, churches, nature and empty beaches. “Usually you need to choose between the beach or the countryside and culture, but Bohol has it all.” Her top culinary honors here go to Amun Ini resort: “I would make the trek just to have their crispy pata [deepfried pig trotters] with flatbreads—the fresh slaw, the crunchy skin and soft meat and that tangy, spicy yogurt sauce. Oh, and the eggplant gnocchi is a close runner-up.” Next on the list? “Siargao. The surfer’s paradise just opened direct flights from Manila.” Instagram: @stephaniezubiri.

Fraser Morton

Eszter Papp

Seafaring Souls Page 74 — You’ve got to take a boat, or a few boats, to the Mentawais, in Indonesia. “If you want picturesque tropical islands, you have to put in the effort,” Morton says. From Sipora, he fondly recalls Daniel, “the 20-year-old artist from whom we bought a carving, and who paddled out into the waves with me and spent most of the time laughing at my expense.” That’s because Morton is no surfer, but he is “an eternal optimist, plagued with stupidity and a desire to try things beyond my skills. After staring for days at Lance’s Right, I couldn’t leave without trying my luck. It could have ended badly.” Instagram: @far_features.

Seafaring Souls Page 74 — “Tropical tales like Robinson Crusoe spring to mind” in the Mentawai Archipelago, Papp says. Their hosts at Hollow Tree’s Resort were “joyful, ocean-going people, their relationship with nature inspiring. I loved our evening meals, where we ate under the stars listening to and laughing about their stories from their days at sea.” They came to know the Sikerei medicine man they stayed with as “Papa,” and he showered them with affection and kisses. “He was hilarious and was always dancing. He couldn’t speak English, and I couldn’t speak Mentawai, but we got along well.” Instagram: @eszt_.

W r i t er

w r i t er

P h o to gr a p h er

fr o m t o p : s o n n y t h a k u r ; c o u r t e s y o f s t e p h a n i e z u b i r i ; c o u r t e s y o f fr a s e r m o r t o n ; c o u r t e s y o f e s z t e r pa p p

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P h o to gr a p h er

editor’s note

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shapes and sizes. Whether you’re a millennial looking for a sporty break or a couple seeking some secluded down time, there’s a strip of sand that beckons. This month, we’ve got you covered, sunblock included, whether from a remote corner of Indonesia, a postcard setting in the Philippines or a section of the Australian coast that is in constant flux. One of the more intriguing locales on our map is the Mentawai Islands off the west coast of Sumatra (“Seafaring Souls,” page 74). Here, writer Fraser Morton surfs above “flesh-splitting coral;” swallows a midnight snack he’d just as soon forget; and suffers a plight that all visitors to these remote islands face. I’m referring to the heartbreak of having to leave, not hard to fathom when you read his tale of being enveloped by tangerine sunsets and entranced by a girl’s singing, as well as the meaningful friendships that ensue. If you’re looking for something more mainstream, Australia’s Gold Coast is now a stretch where great meals and airconditioned comforts complement the playground that is the ocean here (“Solid Gold,” page 86). In short, it’s grown up. Also evolving is Bohol. In “Pure Philippines” (page 96), visitors will find pristine beaches, thriving local communities and centuries-old history. Beaches really do come in all shapes and sizes.

@CKucway chrisk@mediatransasia.com

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From My Travels

We all know Tokyo as a hyper-modern urban center, but it also offers up quiet, historic corners at many turns. I found one when I visited Bonsai master Kunio Kobayashi at his garden museum. Now 69, his work includes one tree that is more than 800 years old, as well as two prizewinners, each worth close to a million U.S. dollars. Still, the best part of a visit to this garden in Edogawa-ku is watching his deft hands sculpt a tree into a piece of art.

fr o m l e f t: t h a n a k o r n c h o m n awa n g ; c h r i s t o p h e r k u c way

Like the islands they call home, Asia’s beaches come in all

Where does your passport rank when it comes to visa-free access? Globally, as it has for a few years now, holding a German passport grants you access to 176 countries, tops in the world, according to a study by Henley & Partners. At 175 countries, Sweden comes a close second; with Denmark, Finland, Italy, Spain and the U.S. tallying one less, and third overall. In fourth spot, Singapore leads the pack in Asia, with 173 countries on its list, which ties it with Austria, Belgium and the United Kingdom.

Global ranking of Brunei Darussalam, whose passport is visa free in 151 countries.

Thailand’s—with 71 visa-free countries—ranking in Asia, behind Singapore, Malaysia, Brunei and Timor-Leste.

Laos and Burma

This month, readers give us a peek at how they spend a day beachside.

#TLASIA

the conversation

All set for Krabi, Thailand. By @chriestiena.

Buwukalen Beach, Philippines. By @travelingpetitegirl.

Trying to find Nemo in Malang, Indonesia. By @lostinmalang.

The biggest climbers in Asia during the past year, with 48 visa-free countries for Lao and 41 for Burmese.

Number of countries where Malaysian passport holders enjoy visa-free status.

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Number of countries where Afghan passport holders enjoy visa-free access, a ranking of 218th or last place in the world.

Beach views on Koh Chang are more exciting. By @eloise_baz. Share an Instagram photo by using the #TLAsia hashtag, and it may be featured in an upcoming issue. Follow @travelandleisureasia

editor-in-chief art director Deput y editor senior editor senior DEsigner DEsigner assistant EDITOR

Christopher Kucway Wannapha Nawayon Jeninne Lee-St. John Merritt Gurley Chotika Sopitarchasak Autchara Panphai Veronica Inveen

Regul ar contributors / photogr aphers Cedric Arnold, Kit Yeng Chan, Helen Dalley, Philipp Engelhorn, Marco Ferrarese, Duncan Forgan, Diana Hubbell, Lauryn Ishak, Mark Lean, Melanie Lee, Ian Lloyd Neubauer, Morgan Ommer, Aaron Joel Santos, Stephanie Zubiri chairman president publishing director publishER digital media manager TRAFFIC MANAGER /deput y DIGITAL media manager sales director business de velopment managers chief financial officer production manager production group circul ation MANAGER circul ation assistant

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TIME INC. Chief Executive Officer Chief Content Officer

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Near-Away! by American Express

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Sonia Rykiel, Christian Lacroix, JAB and Pierre Frey velvets and fabrics. On the walls are tanned panels, which reveal stitches artfully inspired by lace hosiery. Rooms evoke passion, splendour, and high-fashion swank, rich in arresting hues of amethyst, sapphire, gold, ruby and emerald. If you seek an unprecedented definition of luxurious respite, one of the five individually themed new-world chic suites is your discerning choice.

To enjoy a one night’s stay in the Executive Room at American Express subsidised rate of S$150 nett, please present the voucher located in your annual Platinum Reserve Credit Card welcome or renewal pack.

THE SCARLET SINGAPORE NEAR-AWAY! BY AMERICAN EXPRESS IS OPEN TO BASIC PLATINUM RESERVE CREDIT CARD MEMBERS. • Card Member must make reservation with The Scarlet Singapore at reservations.sg@thescarlethotels.com at least 14 days in advance. The use of this voucher must be stated at time of reservation. • All reservations are subject to availability and not applicable during blackout dates (i.e. eves of Holidays and Public Holiday) or days of high occupancy. Please contact The Scarlet Singapore for more information. A room reservation confirmation letter or email (in softcopy or hardcopy) must be presented, along with the physical voucher and your American Express® Platinum Reserve Credit Card upon check-in. • Offer may not be combined with other hotel programmes or special offers and is not available on pre-existing reservations. • Card Member is responsible for their parking charges during the whole period of stay at The Scarlet Singapore and no complimentary parking will be provided. • No show or cancellation policies apply in accordance to the hotel’s policies. Please check with hotel for details. • Accommodation is for a maximum of two (2) adults and is inclusive of all applicable tax and service charges for such accommodation. Breakfast is not included. Cost of meals and all other incidentals (including applicable tax and service charges), will be charged to the Card Member’s American Express Platinum Reserve Credit Card. • Merchant’s Terms and Conditions apply – please check with respective merchants for details. American Express acts solely as a payment provider and is not responsible or liable in the event that such services, activities or benefits are not provided or fulfilled by the merchant. Merchants are solely responsible for the fulfilment of all benefits and offers. • Programme benefits, participating merchants and Terms and Conditions may be amended or withdrawn without prior notice at the sole discretion of American Express International Inc. In the event of any dispute, the decision of American Express will be final and no correspondence may be entertained. American Express International Inc., (UEN S68FC1878J) 20 (West) Pasir Panjang Road #08-00, Mapletree Business City, Singapore 117439. americanexpress.com.sg Incorporated with Limited Liability in the State of Delaware, U.S.A.® Registered Trademark of American Express Company. © Copyright 2017 American Express Company.

N e ws + t r e n d s + d i sc o v e r i e s

debut

Mornington Magic Expect to be transformed when you check in to the new hotel on Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula. Ph C o oto u r t eCsrye d oift jTaec e k ay alope

By Lindy Alex ander

A bold dining plate at Jackalope.

t r a v e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m / m a y 2 0 1 7

/ here&now / The ancient art of alchemy is

to present a luxury offering, but in a form you might not expect or have experienced before.” Li plans to open a second Jackalope in Melbourne, with Shanghai and Los Angeles on the radar. The theme of alchemy continues as you check in, wine glass in hand, surrounded by large glass vessels reflecting the light, as if potions were dancing inside. The gilded chairs, the bespoke furniture and quartz busts in the reception area all speak to Li’s sense of theater.

from top:

Panorama view of the sleek hotel; rooms look out to the vineyard; a guilded chair; Japanese stone tub with Hunter Lab toiletries.

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But narratives of food and winemaking are never far away. It’ll be hard to resist the urge to press your nose to the prominent glass cube that houses 1,000 bottles, but it’s the ceiling installation in fine dining restaurant Doot Doot Doot that really takes your breath away. Made from 10,000 light bulbs, it emulates the bubbles of the fermentation in winemaking. Like any good cinematic experience, you get the feeling that all this is the swelling crescendo to the moment when you open the door to your room. If you’ve gone all out, you’ll be in the biggest room of the 46 available—the 85-square-meter Lair with its enormous terrace, indoor/ outdoor fireplace and views to the black stone infinity pool, giving the impression of water lapping at the vines. Inside, everything is both beautiful and thoughtful, from the hand-crafted furniture to the Hunter Lab toiletries. After a soak in your deep stone tub, you’ll wonder if there is any magic you can possibly conjure up to extend your stay at Jackalope. jackalopehotels.com; doubles from A$650.

C o u r t e s y o f j a c k a l o p e (4 )

alive and well at Jackalope, from the vines laden with grapes waiting to be turned into chardonnay to the hotel’s namesake: a seven-meter-tall Jackalope (a mythical creature that is half jackrabbit and half antelope) overlooking the entrance piazza. Framed by two coastlines, Jackalope sits on 11 hectares in the heart of the Mornington Peninsula’s wine region. The striking black modern building is in stark contrast to its surrounds where undulating grape vines stretch to the forest beyond. The hotel is a passion project for 29-year-old Melbournebased entrepreneur, Louis Li, who stumbled upon a small statue of a Jackalope while traveling in Germany knew this was the inspiration he needed for his hotel. Originally from southern China, Li’s family develops property and luxury hotels. After moving to Melbourne to study filmmaking, Li wanted to build a fanciful hotel on the site of working winery Willow Creek. “With a growing awareness of the connection between the elements of a luxury hotel and of my developing passions—art, design, dining and storytelling—I set about to merge the family hotel gene with my passions and artistic creativities,” he says. “Design-wise, the bold, surreal and contemporary form of Jackalope is not something you would expect to see in a rural setting. That ties in with our desire

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/ here&now / FROM top: The glamourous shell pool at JW Marriott Emerald Bay; the resort’s airy Turquoise suite.

Making Waves

With tons of visitors—and dollars—pouring into the southern Vietnamese island, once-languid Phu Quoc is on the verge of a major transformation. By Veronica Inveen

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STAY

JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay The massive entrance of this 17-hectare estate stands in stark contrast to its unassuming surroundings. Fifteen minutes south of the airport, just before the grand boulevard turns into rough tracks of bumpy red clay, the gateway befitting a palace breaks a dusty scene of roadside food stands, motorcycle repair shops and the occasional karaoke joint. The farther you venture along the pathway, the deeper you enter a dreamland designed by Bill Bensley. Though the hotel is new, Bensley concocted a backstory for it, imagining it was built on the site of the fictional Lamarck University, an early 20th-century school he decided was for the island’s French colonists. The academic narrative is carried on throughout the 244-room resort. From the omnipresent Phu Quoc ridgeback, a dog native to the island that has been dubbed the mascot of the hotel, to the library-themed lobby adorned with vintage tomes, the hotel will have you wandering the grounds wide-eyed.

c o u r t e s y o f j w m a rr i o t t p h u q u o c e m e r a l d b ay ( 2 )

where to go ne x t

Never heard of Phu Quoc? Not many have. It is easy to overlook the Vietnamese island, tucked away in a quiet corner of the South China Sea, just 14 kilometers from Cambodia. Despite being the largest island in the Gulf of Thailand, it is, for now, one of the area’s best-kept secrets. From the air, you would think Phu Quoc was the filming location for Jurassic Park, lush with tropical foliage, and ringed by ivory sands and a turquoise coast. It isn’t until you make your way out of the single-runway airport, which is undergoing a US$45-million expansion, and onto the new grand highway that the boom in development becomes apparent. Even though the Vietnamese government has been pushing Phu Quoc as a “modern center of tourism” since 2004, it has been slow going for the sleepy fishing island. But the opening of the JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay is pushing the pedal on the pace of development here. For now, Phu Quoc is in its sweet spot: with infrastructure improving, there are great places to stay, lots to do, and you won’t have to fight through hoards of tourists to enjoy its many charms.

c l o c k w i s e fr o m t o p : c o u r t e s y o f l a v e r a n d a r e s o r t ( 2 ) ; c o u r t e s y o f p h u q u o c b e e fa rm ; c o u r t e s y o f p h u q u o c c o u n t r y s i d e p e p p e r fa rm ; c o u r t e s y o f r e d b o at f i s h s a u c e

Building on the university concept, guestrooms, suites and villas are organized by academic departments, including zoology, astronomy, agriculture and oceanography. Facts about marine animals decorate the elevator of the Oceanography Department wing and Zoology is a trove of fossils. The rooms are luminous and airy, with floor-to-ceiling windows and spacious balconies that overlook the property’s three pools, edged by wide vistas of sand and sea. The cloud-like beds and gorgeous claw-legged bathtubs make it a challenge to leave the room, but soldier on for a treatment at Chantrelle Spa by JW, a two-story haven decorated in some 100 illustrations of mushrooms, in whose therapeutic qualities the French have believed in for centuries. In the evening, stroll down the Rue de Lamarck, at the center of the resort, lined in Hoi An–style shophouses and boutiques selling products like local silks, art and pepper. Follow the colorful lanterns to the Department of Chemistry where a daybed, steps from the shores of Bai Khem beach, and a divine cocktail await your arrival. marriott.com; doubles from VND9,000,000.

clockwise FROM top: The colonial mansion at La Veranda Resort; a trio of spring rolls from La Veranda Resort; busy bees at Phu Quoc Bee Farm; harvesting peppercorns; Red Boat fish sauce.

SEE & DO

Phu Quoc Bee Farm On the outskirts of Phu Quoc National Park, in a family-run organic fruit and flower farm, learn about bees from the passionate students who run this haven, while sipping honey-based beverages like their coconut-and-turmeric tea or a raw honey mojito. phuquocbeefarm.com Phu Quoc Countryside Pepper Farm Every year, Phu Quoc yields more than 1,100 tonnes of peppercorn using traditional—not to mention labor-intensive—methods. Here, after a tour of the harvesting process, you can kick back with some of the many ridgeback puppies roaming the farm and enjoy a Vietnamese feast made from fare grown onsite and sample rose myrtle wine and their homebrewed beer. phuquoccountrysidecom121.chiliweb.org Red Boat Fish Sauce If you can handle the stench, add a visit to this fish sauce factory to your itinerary to experience first-hand how the pungent flavor enhancer is made from tons of anchovies. It is Phu Quoc’s most famous export and is said to be the tastiest and most natural in Southeast Asia. redboatfishsauce.com. T+L Tip: Try La Veranda Resort’s (laverandaresorts.com) Phu Quoc Blood Mary, which features the fish sauce, local pepper and veggies grown onsite.

COMING UP

Though local charm remains, Phu Quoc is fast developing. Plans call for the building of the world’s longest overwater cable car, a massive tourist complex, a resort center and a theme park—those attached to Phu Quoc’s anonymity hope it will remain a “tranquil island.”

GETTING THERE

Non-stop flights from Saigon and Hanoi to Phu Quoc run daily on Vietnam Airlines, JetStar and VietJet. t r a v e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m / m a y 2 0 1 7

SERENELY SOFITEL

Le Spa with L’Occitane at Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit

SPA EXPERIENCES THAT ARE WONDERFULLY LOCAL AND LUXURIOUSLY FRENCH. Sofitel hotels and resorts offer guests authentic luxury experiences at premier destinations, with every stay a celebration of French lifestyle and culture with a focus on superb design, gastronomy and well-being. That last point is emphasised at Sofitel’s spas, which combine world traditions in beauty and health with renowned French cosmetology. With healing and relaxation traditions that have been refined and perfected for centuries, and regional

differences providing a limitless opportunity to explore new techniques and ingredients, the “local with a French twist” model excels in Southeast Asia.

Le Spa at Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila

Inspired by the mythical Himmapan forest from Asian folklore, the SoSPA at SO Sofitel Bangkok is an urban retreat where ancient traditions meet the latest French cosmetology. With tranquil views over Lumpini Park, SoSpa offers treatments curated by world-renowned brands and presented as if in a gourmet restaurant, replete with starters, main courses, desserts and the Chef’s specialty. Created exclusively for SO Sofitel Bangkok, the 90-minute Serenity Signature Treatment combines the 500-year-old “Tok Sen” technique from Northern Thailand with elements of wood, earth, water, fire and metal for a soothing experience that encourages deep relaxation and rejuvenation.

SoSPA at SO Sofitel Bangkok

Refined French elegance meets the warm Filipino touch to sooth body, mind, and spirit at Le Spa at Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila. With panoramic views across Manila Bay, guests enjoy world-class wellness rituals that fuse Western, Asian, and Polynesian massage techniques to revitalise the senses while staying true to Hilot Secret, or the ancient Filipino art of healing. An opulent lounge, dry and wet sauna, foot massage area, nine treatment suites and special packages that include an overnight stay and breakfast for two at the famous Spiral restaurant make Manila the ideal place to indulge in a blissful weekend. Guests at Le Spa with L’Occitane at Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit start each treatment by customising the room’s atmosphere, choosing a scent developed by L’Artisan Parfumeur Paris, pillows and duvets from the Sofitel My Bed collection, and their preferred background accompaniment. Further speciality is found in unique programmes designed to bring relief to mothers-to-be, families, and busy executives. As the only spa in Bangkok partnered with the renowned skincare brand L’Occitane, guests are assured a truly exclusive experience that combines MediterraneanFrench philosophies with the finest traditions of Thailand’s healing arts to release deep tension, encourage flexibility and enhance radiance.

Located steps from the Opera House in Hanoi’s French Quarter, the city’s most storied 5-star hotel welcomes guests with colonial grandeur and timeless elegance. Here you’ll find Le Spa at Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi, a sanctuary dedicated to well-being, ideal for recharging both body and soul. Erase the stress of a long voyage with therapy booths, thematic spa suites, and a humid zone with steam bath, sauna and showers. Unwind with time-honoured beauty secrets and holistic rituals from the East, which artfully blend with contemporary methods from the West. Sumptuous spa products from Clarins and oil blends from renowned French perfumer Laurent Severac add fitting touches to the grand affair.

Le Spa at Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi

For more information, visit sofitel.com or accorhotels.com.

/ here&now /

E x plore

Seas to Trees

As I float on my back, the setting

from top: High above Langkawi’s

remote beaches; a great hornbill overlooks a remote corner of the island. opposite: Zip-lining through Machinchang Cambrian.

sun drips shades of deep red over the horizon. It isn’t the backdrop to chattering tourists or the banter of a bartender pouring drinks—it is the main act, the sun’s soliloquy, the day’s denouement. There are only six of us present, and we look on in respectful silence. On an island that seems to get more popular by the day—the powdery shores of Langkawi welcomed a St. Regis last year and there is a Ritz-Carlton opening this summer—it can be difficult to find these precious moments of solitude. Luckily, as enthusiasm grows, so does the diversity of offerings, and this blissful stop is the climax of Sea Safari, a new eco-tour launched by Dev’s Adventure Tours (langkawinature.com; RM200 per person including snacks) late last year. This dramatic sunset at Chawi Bay—an ocher crescent hidden amid Langkawi’s southwestern islets—is a different side of the island from what

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tourists who bounce between the packed sundecks and cocktail bars of always-buzzing Pantai Cengang beach get to see. This is nature, pure and simple. “We did a lot of research to offer this package,” says Claudia Mueller, Dev’s managing director. “The concept is to take guests where nobody else has gone before. It took us a while to find the right places, an expert boat man and spots where the wildlife regularly dwells.” Guided by expert naturalists from midafternoon until sunset, Sea Safari takes a maximum of eight guests out to Langkawi’s least visited southwestern islets: Pregnant Maiden, Taja, Snake, Kentur Kecil and Kentur Besar. Besides gliding past limestone pinnacles on emerald waters, guests can enjoy a relaxing swim at secluded Chawi Bay, or follow their guides into the thicket, a rich ecosystem of giant old trees and endemic exotic plants. “I love to teach visitors about the local mangrove forest and how it

fr o m to p : c o u rt esy o f d e v ’ s a dv e n t u r e ; c o u rt esy o f u m gawa

From the edge of the ocean to the roof of the jungle, two new tours offer front-row seats to the theater of natural wonders on the lush island of Langkawi. By Marco Ferr arese

slows the impact of currents, protecting the islets from the risk of tsunami,” Jerome Canisius of Sea Safari tells me. “The tour is also a chance to gaze at Langkawi’s beautiful rock formations, from marble to granite, that span from the Cambrian to the Permian periods.” As the dinghy floats amidst the islets, the other stars of Langkawi’s environment, the native animals, take center stage: Brahminy kites and white-bellied sea eagles soar high, while Pacific reef egrets circle the limestone, and cheeky monkeys play high in the green canopy. Want a closer look at the jesters of the jungle? A ride on Umgawa (ziplinelangkawi.com; RM499 per person), an ambitious set of zip-lines crisscrossing Southeast Asia’s first Geoforest Park, Machinchang Cambrian, will have you howling right along with the dusky leaf monkeys whose turf you’re swinging through. Open since October, it took an international team of experienced zip-course engineers, construction experts and safety-andtraining professionals more than three years to set up Umgawa’s 12 zip-lines, connected by 18 platforms and Malay-style sky bridges. The result is a twohour-long floating adventure supervised by experienced rangers, who take pride in explaining Machinchang’s geology and spotting elusive wildlife. “The Geo Park hosts hundreds of bird species, including the great hornbill,” says Charles Farrel, Umgawa’s chief executive officer. “From stingless bees to strangler figs, to exotic and rare orchids, we give visitors a healthy dose of expert Langkawi nature knowledge, besides the highly exciting airborne thrills.” This jungle canopy is crawling with unusual critters. On a lucky day, you might see a gliding colugo or a Sunda slow loris. When nature choreographs a multi-species group number, all you can do is sit back and enjoy the show.

HERITAGE OF SERENITY

c o u rt esy o f u m gawa

Escape to the peace and tranquility of Kamandalu Ubud, a 5-star boutique resort situated amid lush paddyfields in the green hills of Ubud. From your very own Balinese-inspired villa, step out to enjoy the warm hospitality of our staff and explore the natural surroundings that lie just beyond.

Jalan Andong Banjar Nagi Ubud, Bali 80571 Indonesia T +62 361 975 825 reservation@kamandaluresort.com www.kamandaluresort.com

/ here&now / After Dark

Drinking Games

A new bar in Hong Kong will transport you to the carnival, or at least back to your university days.

Why do college kids get to have

all the fun? Don’t grown-ups deserve a night of beer pong, darts, and flip cup? The new Carnival Beer Pong Bar in Hong Kong, offers drinking enthusiasts of all legal ages games, music and snacks. “Carnival is for everyone young at heart,” says founder Vivien Shek, also behind The Drunken Pot, which is located

in the same building and caters tasty canapés for Carnival patrons. “It is the perfect recipe for fun.” Really want to take the festivities to the next level? Order the 12-shot Ferris wheel and watch the room spin round and round. Open nightly 6 p.m.–6 a.m.; Shop 1, 6F, 8 Observatory Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui; fb.com/carnivalbartst.

Noticed

Cuddle Up Flying isn’t usually a very social activity. Often you sit facing the back of the seat in front of you, watching the inflight movie. Qatar Airways is changing things up with their new business class QSuite, which has adjustable panels and movable TV monitors on the center four seats, allowing people traveling together to turn the space into a private suite, with the chairs facing each other. In an industry first, those in the forward-facing middle seats can lower the dividing wall between them to transform into a 79-inch, lie-flat double bed. The rollout of the new customizable business class is expected this summer. qatarairways.com.

c o u r t e s y o f c a r n i va l b a r

Qatar’s new Business class is full of firsts.

#ILOVEBINTAN

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WAKE UP TO THE SUN, SAND AND SEA Plethora of resorts to stay, fun-filled things to do, delightful local food to eat & endless new discoveries to make. A tropical island paradise, just 60 minutes away from Singapore! Visit Us: bintan-resorts.com

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Near-Away! by American Express

OASIA HOTEL NOVENA, SINGAPORE 8 Sinaran Drive, Singapore 307470 Call 65 6664 0333 or email sales.ohs@fareast.com.sg to make your bookings now. Located in the charming enclave of the Novena district, Oasia Hotel Novena, Singapore is a premier business hotel that offers distinctively elegant accommodations in its 428 guestrooms. Offering the latest technologies and high-speed Internet connections, it is directly connected to the Central Business District and main shopping belts via the adjacent Novena MRT Station. Yet, despite all these comforts and conveniences, the Oasia Hotel Novena, Singapore is still a welcome escape from the hustle and bustle of city life and offers guests ample opportunities to refresh, refuel, and recharge.

Oasia redefines and sets new standards to city hospitality experience as the destination of choice for astute business and leisure travellers who seek wellness within the comfort and familiarity of a city. Whether you de-stress with a dip in a Jacuzzi, a great meal at modern bistro The Marmalade Pantry, or through shopping, there are ample opportunities to do all these things and more when you choose to Journey Well with us.

To enjoy a one-night stay in the Deluxe Room at American Express subsidised rate of S$150 nett, please present the voucher located in your annual Platinum Reserve Credit Card welcome or renewal pack.

OASIA HOTEL NOVENA, SINGAPORE NEAR-AWAY! BY AMERICAN EXPRESS IS OPEN TO BASIC PLATINUM RESERVE CREDIT CARD MEMBERS. • Card Member must make reservation with Oasia Hotel Novena, Singapore at sales.ohs@fareast.com.sg at least 14 days in advance. The use of this voucher must be stated at time of reservation. • All reservations are subject to availability and not applicable during blackout dates (i.e. eves of Holidays and Public Holiday) or days of high occupancy. Please contact Oasia Hotel Novena, Singapore for more information. A room reservation confirmation letter or email (in soft or hardcopy) must be presented, along with the physical voucher and your American Express® Platinum Reserve Credit Card upon check-in. • Offer may not be combined with other hotel programmes or special offers and is not available on pre-existing reservations. • Card Member is responsible for their parking charges during the whole period of stay at Oasia Hotel Novena, Singapore and no complimentary parking will be provided. • No show or cancellation policies apply in accordance to the hotels’ policies. Please check with hotel for details. • Accommodation is for a maximum of two (2) adults and is inclusive of all applicable tax and service charges for such accommodation. Breakfast is not included. Cost of meals and all other incidentals (including applicable tax and service charges), will be charged to the Card Member’s Platinum Reserve Credit Card. • Merchant’s Terms and Conditions apply – please check with respective merchants for details. American Express acts solely as a payment provider and is not responsible or liable in the event that such services, activities or benefits are not provided or fulfilled by the merchant. Merchants are solely responsible for the fulfilment of all benefits and offers. • American Express does not assume liability and American Express Card Member(s) shall not make any claim whatsoever for (i) injury or bodily harm or (ii) loss of damage to property, howsoever caused, arising from, or in connection with these benefits and privileges. • Programme benefits, participating merchants and Terms and Conditions may be amended or withdrawn without prior notice at the sole discretion of the American Express International Inc. In the event of any dispute, the decision of American Express will be final and no correspondence may be entertained. American Express International Inc., (UEN S68FC1878J) 20 (West) Pasir Panjang Road #08-00, Mapletree Business City, Singapore 117439. americanexpress.com.sg Incorporated with Limited Liability in the State of Delaware, U.S.A.® Registered Trademark of American Express Company. © Copyright 2017 American Express Company.

luang pr a bang | sr i l ank a + mor e

An Island D is patc

Away

An Singapore shines a lig ew Indonesian priva te island ht on the just a hop, skip and a many tropical pursu near jump from its the city. ph otogr a

p hed by

B y M e rr it t G u r l L au ry n ey Is h a k

Lounge by the boathouse at Cempedak Private Island.

t r a v e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m / m a y 2 0 1 7

/ beyond /D i s p a tc h a surprise since I’m just one degree north of the equator at a resort without air conditioning. The mosquito net billows around the bamboo fan above my bed, and I fumble to find the remote that will still its powerful wooden blades. The bedroom is wide open, facing the sea, and as the stars fade to a golden dawn, I crawl out of bed.

I wake up cold,

It is too early for breakfast so I wander down the bamboo spiral staircase and go for a swim. I hang over the side of the infinity pool and just absorb the sky, blushing pink and rose, and the island-dotted ocean sprawling across the horizon. My internal clock slows down a notch, and it feels like there is nothing separating me from the scenery. I’m just as much a part of the sunrise as the clouds carrying its colors across the expanse. At Cempedak, a new private-island retreat in Indonesia’s Riau Archipelago, just 91 kilometers from Singapore, luxury takes on a new meaning. Yes, every room is a two-story 150-square-meter villa, with an indoor and an outdoor shower, a sitting area, a walk-in closet, a plush canopy bed and a private pool. Noticeably missing though are televisions, air conditioners, and walls. When a space is designed to usher in the sea breeze, rather than trap in cold air, walls only get in the way. Of course this au naturel style isn’t for everybody. “One of our mantras is not to try to suit everyone,” says Cempedak’s cofounder Andrew Dixon. “Too many hotels try to please everyone, and that is a mistake because you lose authenticity. You become a bit bland.” Dixon and I are chatting over a breakfast spread of fresh fruit, Indonesian pastries including pisang molen (banana wrapped in flour dough), and eggs served in a skillet with savory tomato sauce. Every meal I’ve had here has been an elegant take on regional specialties. “Try this,” Dixon says, handing me a piping hot cup of jamu, a ginger-heavy local elixir. “It will cure what ails you.” After staying up to the wee hours the previous night, drinking 12-year-old Venezualan Diplomatico rum with Dixon at the resort’s Dodo Bar— complete with a hideous stuffed replica of a Dodo, whose closest living relative, the Nicobar pigeon, is found in this region—I have my share of ails to cure.

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clockwise from above: The villa’s breezy canopy bed; a blessing ceremony to appease the spirits and usher in an era of prosperity; the leafy landscape provides built-in dividers between the rooms; a beachfront villa on sunny Cempedak.

One of which is a persistent beetle that keeps landing on my head. “It is attracted to your red hair,” Dixon says. Who can blame it? I was hoping to see one of the island’s resident hornbills, or sea otters, or elusive scaly pangolin, but so far this beetle is demanding the spotlight. The 17-hectare island is still a wilderness, covered in palm trees, sea almond trees and long grass. The cempedak tree, with its jackfruit-like yield, for which the island was named, was sadly harvested to extinction here, but Dixon’s team has planted plenty more that should sprout up over the next couple of years. The 20 bamboo and alang alang villas were built around the natural habitat as much as possible, and blend in with the surrounds. “I hate the word eco,” Dixon says. “It has been used and abused.” But of course, it is an eco-resort, minimizing electricity and water usage at every turn, preserving the landscape, responsibly managing waste and respecting the local culture. They decided against building a staircase to the beach because the staff said it would upset the island’s balance. They even flew in a priest from Bali to bless Cempedak in an elaborate opening ceremony. I watch the shamans line up offerings, ring bells, burn incense and splash water on the sand to appease the spirits. And as part of their good-guy credo, the founders of Cempedak also invest part of their profits into local schooling, and are raising money from outside donors. “In the end,” Dixon says, “it is the thing that we’re the most proud of.” This is Dixon’s second private island, following the opening of Nikoi in 2007, a rustic retreat built entirely out of scavenged driftwood. “It was quite a job collecting it all,” Dixon tells me. “I went out and helped one day. God, I’d never do that again.” The resort was a runaway success that’s now booked at more than 90 percent occupancy year-round, but even though they had a winning formula, Dixon didn’t want to open another Nikoi. “We didn’t want to replicate it,” he says. “We wanted to refine it.” So you won’t find driftwood in Cempedak— the island is bamboo central, from the rooms,

ifyou want to usher in the breeze, walls only get in the way t r a v e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m / m a y 2 0 1 7

/ beyond /D i s p a tc h to the custom-made fans, to the straws in the cocktails, to the record player at Dodo Bar. Dixon holds up his iPhone case, also made of bamboo. “It is almost becomes too much, doesn’t it?” Though wildly versatile, there are some drawbacks to building with bamboo. “It doesn’t like to get wet, it doesn’t like beetles, it doesn’t like the sun,” Dixon says. “It is a bit sensitive.” The next day I tour the island with a few other guests and get to see the different species of bamboo in its many incarnations, from tiny tubes to 45-meter-long behemoths that take 35 people to carry. Only the low-lying villas (Nos. 1 to 6) on one side of the island are currently complete. All the other villas, including the ones up the hill with broader views over the ocean, are in various stages of construction. Running around the island would be like seeing a flipbook of a villa being made. At the end of the tour, which includes a stop at the tennis court and soon-to-open spa, we find ourselves stranded on Dead Man’s Beach. Nobody knows why it is called Dead Man’s Beach, but everybody likes to speculate. “They probably found a dead body here when they first surveyed the island,” says Lauryn, the photographer traveling with me, in a macabre and inaccurate guess. “It is the shallow reef out front. Big boats would run aground,” ventures Frank, of Frank and Carolyn, a Texas couple vacationing here for the past few days. It was Carolyn who insisted we find Dead Man’s Beach, against the advice of our patient and beleaguered guide who followed us barefoot as we scrambled down hills and over rocks in search of these forbidden shores. While we managed to shimmy down a giant boulder, we couldn’t climb back up, so now we have to wait for a speedboat to rescue us. With time to kill, our guide cracks an oyster off of a rock, and sucks down the soft morsel within. Lauryn sits waist deep in the ocean and lets the current wash over her. I stroll the perfect white-sand beach collecting shells, of which there is a beautiful and bountiful variety. I hope the dinghy never arrives. Cempedak Private Island: cempedak.com; from S$450 a night, two-night minimum; daily board is S$95 per adult and includes activities. The one-hour ferry ride from Singapore to Bintan starts at S$58 round-trip; the one-hour drive from the ferry to the jetty and the 30-minute boat ride to Cempedak is S$90 round-trip.

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from top: Breakfast is a medley of fresh fruit, hot eggs and Indonesian pastries; rum pairs beautifully with tropical bliss at the Dodo Bar; every villa comes with a private pool and paradisiacal view.

E A S T E R N & O R I E N TA L E X P R E S S , S O U T H E A S T A S I A

Stay a While: bintan island

To get to Cempedak, you’ll take the ferry through this nearby island, and it is worth stopping over for a few days to explore. Here, how to get the biggest bang out of Bintan.

s i d e b a r , fr o m t o p : L a u r y n I s h a k ; c o u r t e s y o f S ’ ya c o s m e t i c s ; c o u r t e s y o f b i n ta n r e s o r t s

Sports & Activities The island’s most famous destination is Bintan Resorts, a clutch of 12 resorts in total, with four new properties in the works, spread along 18,000 hectares of the island’s north coast. Treasure Bay, a recent addition to this vast collection, has a little bit of everything, from glamping at Canopi resort to all manner of splashhappy fun in their Crystal Lagoon, a six-hectare man-made seawater pool. There is a jetovator (above), wake boarding, waterslides, paddleboarding, aquaglide sailboats, kayaks, water-tricycles, sea scooters, bumper boats, an inflatable ball that lets you walk on water, ATVs, scooters and, if the list wasn’t long enough, much more. treasurebaybintan.com; entrance fee for non-guests S$6; tents at Canopi from Rp2,000,000.

Culture & Nature Rather than manufacturing a destination, new tours of the island are trying to reflect the roots of the place, which, at twice the size of Singapore, has lots to offer. Bintan was a trading post between China and India, and has been occupied by the Chinese, British and Dutch. Check out the Sino influence with a visit to Senggarang Village or plan a trip to Grotto Santa Maria to see the ancient handiwork of a Dutch priest. A drive to Panglong Village will take you across Bintan’s rubber and palm oil

plantations, fields of pineapples, and durian orchards to the Berakit coast for a glimpse of sea-gypsy life, with boat builders, fishing villages and maritime nomads. There are also many Instagram-worthy photo opportunities, from the newly opened Vihara Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva, which has 500 life-sized statues of holy men, to the Rumah Arang charcoal kilns, to Gurun Pasir Busung sand dunes. In the evening, a boat tour of Sebung River and its mangrove forest will be lit by both the stars and fireflies. BRC Tours; bintan-resorts.com.

DISCOVER SOUTHEAST ASIA TRAVEL IN STYLE THROUGH THE Style & Beauty It is little surprise that Natalya Pavchinskaya, owner of the Sanchaya, –arguably Bintan’s sleekest stay, with an eye-catching black-and-white aesthetic and beautiful rooms themed around various countries in Southeast Asia–has now launched her own line of clothing and beauty products. S’ya skincare was made in collaboration with beauty expert Kazumasa Kawasaki, whose 60-minute Kawasaki Way facial treatment, dubbed a non-surgical facelift, is now offered at the resort’s spa. The beauty kit (US$205; available at Sanchaya or order from thecollection@ thesanchaya.com) comes with a facialmassage stick, a rejuvenating face oil, a facemask and an exfoliating skin brush. The S’ya collection (available at Sanchaya and pop ups in Singapore; US$50 –$98) of clothing, released in March, includes 20 items, from silk tops and mesh singlets to jeans and high-waisted shorts. “The Sanchaya wants to go home with you,” Pavchinskaya says, “not merely in your memory bank, but in your suitcase, too.” The pieces are made of light material like cotton, silk and lycra, in neutral tones that are easy to mix and match. thesanchaya.com; doubles from US$500.

HEART OF SOUTHEAST ASIA ABOARD THE MAGNIFICENT EASTERN & ORIENTAL EXPRESS. COCKTAILS, FINE DINING, CONVIVIAL COMPANY AND SPECTACULAR VIEWS: THIS IS WHAT LIFE ABOARD THE EASTERN & ORIENTAL EXPRESS IS ALL ABOUT.

CONTACT OUR LUXURY TRAVEL CONSULTANTS ON +65 6395 0678 OR YOUR LOCAL TRAVEL AGENT.

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/ beyond /b a ck s t o r y

Azerai Rises

Hotel legend Adrian Zecha talks about his bold new property in Luang Prabang.

From top: Cycle up to the entrance of the Azerai in Luang Prabang; the hotel’s founder, Adrian Zecha.

A mystery was afoot on the site of Luang Prabang’s old Phousi Hotel. What was being built behind the the tin-sheet barricade, inching upwards day by day, shrouded by dust and demolition? I was living in Luang Prabang, and the rumor mill was churning with gossip about the construction site. Word on the street was that the project belonged to Adrian Zecha, the hotelier who set a new standard for luxury travel when he launched the Aman brand back in 1988. Aman was a pioneer in making the hotel experience feel less like paying to stay in a nice room and more like being welcomed by a gracious host to a holiday in their elegant home. Zecha’s resorts were Zen-like cloisters marked

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by their remote, virgin locales; their expansive, understated villas; and hyper exclusivity. The hotel going up here was smack in the middle of town and hemmed in on either side by a noisy school, a temple and a busy road—nothing like the world was accustomed to seeing from Zecha. And so the intrigue grew, all the more titillating for its hidden-inplain-sight appeal, right on the threshold of the unesco heritage town’s core protected zone. Wat Mai, the resting place of the Phabang, the town’s namesake Buddha image, is a three-minute stroll, and the broad, silty Mekong is less than 100 meters away— you can sprint there and barely break a sweat. Yet for all the speculation, when the property welcomed its first guest last December, it did so without fuss or fanfare. No press release, no grand opening, no website, no social media posts. No phone number, no reservation desk. Up until the very last minute, it didn’t even have name. Azerai was indeed an enigma, and one I set out to solve by going directly to the source: Adrian Zecha himself, a man surrounded by even more mystery than the nearly nameless hotel he just opened. Zecha is 84 years old , charming and chatty. Impeccably self-

possessed, with an easygoing mien, he entertains me with colorful stories about journalism, deal-making, hotels and the Azerai. “I am happy here. I love it,” he says when I speak to him one balmy afternoon on the hotel’s outdoor terrace, surrounded by a >>

a l l p h o t o s : M i c h e l l e C h a p l o w/ c o u r t e s y o f a z e r a i

By R achna Sachasinh

Weaving the Seminyak flavors. Hotel Indigo Bali Seminyak Beach is the new chic beachfront lifestyle resort with an eclectic design, crafting locally-inspired moments connecting you to the pulsating neighbourhood of Seminyak. Our 270-room resort and 19 villas welcome you to this uniquely vibrant vicinity as well as eight distinctive lifestyle outlet experiences with local blends and inspired services. Unveiling soon. Jalan Camplung Tanduk No. 10, Seminyak, Bali 80361 - Indonesia

T: +62 361 209 9999

seminyak.hotelindigo.com

F: +62 361 209 9988

/ beyond /b a ck s t o r y stand of Indian cork trees exploding with white blooms. The 53-room Azerai is an intimate community of five heritage-style buildings whose whitewashed facade and sweeping, templeinspired roofline pay homage to the town’s pleasant mix of traditional teak houses, French colonial bungalows and Buddhist temple architecture. Each space suggests contemporary studio living with modest 35-square-meter standard rooms and a total of four 85-square-meter suites. Lacey tropical palms fringe the property, while the interior courtyard is anchored by a glorious 100-year-old ficus, which shades a sprawling 25-meter pool—the only one permitted on the historic peninsula. In spite of the small footprint, the dwellings feel spacious, with each room accommodating a handmade king-sized bed, two vanities, a desk, a wardrobe and seating area. The handsome blond wooden beams, furniture and flooring are hewn from indigenous sai champa trees, a fast-growing species that is a sustainable alternative to teak. French louvered doors lead to verandas outfitted with smart loungers and wide daybeds. Some verandas offer discreet glimpses of next door Wat Hua Xiang’s monastic rituals and its balustrades with colorfully tiled nagas, or serpents. Others frame the interior courtyard, with fleeting peeks into the goings-on about town. The property is all understated elegance and cosmopolitan sensibility. Classic Zecha, you might say. However, priced at a modest US$250 per night, Azerai is billed as “affordable luxury.” If Azerai feels perfect coming from this hotelier, it also is something entirely different. It represents a new chapter for Zecha, after turning the page on his fallout with Aman.

Zecha is no stranger to controversy. For the past few years he’s been mired in a legal mud fight, trying to broker peace between Aman’s new owners and to salvage the brand’s original concept. In 2007, Zecha sold the majority shares to an Indian real estate company, agreeing to stay on as CEO for 10 years, but in the wake of the 2008 financial crisis, Zecha found his company bouncing between owners, and eventually in the hands of Vladislav Doronin, founder of Moscow-based Capital Group, whose expansion plan for Aman was a stark departure from Zecha’s vision. When Zecha was unceremoniously dismissed from company, he didn’t stop or disappear. He simply moved on. He had redefined luxury once, so he decided to set about doing it again. Azerai represents the latest incarnation of what he sees as a winning idea for resorts. But the concept for the Azerai first came up 15 years ago, when Zecha launched the Serai >>

Like any compelling char acter,

From LEFT:

Azerai is a short stroll from Wat Mai; the handsome blond-wood staircase.

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Experience the Maldives at its best Our private island hideaway offers luxury escapism at its finest. Indulge in five-star relaxation, savor gourmet cuisines, and enjoy head-to-toe pampering in unique treetop spa treatment pods. Gracious hospitality inspired by traditional Thai values enriches each and every experience, providing a personalized vacation unlike any other. Destinations: China • Egypt • Kenya • Maldives • Philippines • Thailand • U.A.E. • U.S.A.

/ beyond /b a ck s t o r y

CLOCKWISE From LEFT: Azerai is

the only hotel on the historic peninsula that got permission to build a swimming pool; a flowerpetal chandelier; inside a suite.

resort in Bali, built on land he borrowed from longtime friend Franky Tjahyadikarta, owner of Alila Hotels. The idea was to “scale back the hardware, but keep the software,” Zecha says, by downsizing the hotel, but keeping the service elements, or “software,” the same. “It was a big success. I had friends who would sneak off to the Serai instead of staying at Amankila,” he says. Eventually, Zecha sold the Serai to Tjahyadikarta, who currently runs it as the Alila Manggis. “At the time, I was too busy with Aman, and Franky wanted his land back,” Zecha says. Yet the allure of an “affordable luxury” brand stuck with him and, post-Aman, seemed like as good a time as any to test those waters. as “Amanlite,” but as the result of finally being able to realize the Serai’s full potential. Like many of his past endeavours, success is pinned entirely on his sensibilty. This isn’t simply about how to reduce the bottom line and increase profits; it is about extending his concept of luxury to a wider audience. The Luang Prabang location is just the beginning for the Azerai brand. There is another Azerai property underway in the

Zecha doesn’t see the Azer ai

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canal-filled city of Can Tho, four hours south of Saigon, set to open at the end of this year, and rumor has it that Shanghai and Havana are in the mix. It is a lofty endeavour for an 84-year-old to roll out a new industry-shifting hotel brand. He’s had such a successful career, though peppered with heartache along the way, so I ask him: why not just retire, sit back and enjoy one of his vacation houses for more than a few days each year? He laughs. “I love doing this. Why stop?” I leave Zecha in the company of a group of Japanese businessmen—Amanjunkies no doubt—who, along with other guests, have been rubbernecking our tête-à-tête all afternoon. Climbing a stairwell cut from luscious straw-colored timber, I settle into a seat on a veranda off the restaurant’s urbane cocktail lounge. Azerai fully exploits the charms of the veranda, the iconic Indochinese perch which elicits long, languid periods of unabashed daydreaming and reflection, preferably with cocktail in hand. From this vantage, under the low slung wooden eaves, I watch the setting sun streak the sky pink and purple. Motorists circle the intersection making up traffic laws as they go. Soon, streets lamps and fairy lights blink on, and the night market, full of artful ethnic handicrafts and toothsome food stalls, gets underway. A knot of locals and tourists amble past, and it seems like the Azerai has been here all along. azerai.com; doubles from US$250.

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Cliff-top views at Il Mare.

Sleepy Tangalle, on the south coast of Sri Lanka, is getting new investments on its perfect sands. Head there soon, before you have to share the waves. By Jeninne Lee-St. John

Coconut delivery at Anantara.

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fr o m t o p : c o u r t e s y o f a n a n ta r a p e a c e h av e n ta n g a l l e r e s o r t; l e o m c h u g h

Chasing Calm

towards the neighborhood of villas, some unusual activity below has me halt my driver. A man is in a rowboat, in a slow-motion chase. His prey? A wily duck, flapping in the stream trying to escape bedtime. The audience includes a safe of other ducks, already confined to their cage but seeming to cheer on their defiant compatriot. After a comedic, aquatic back-and-forth straight out of a Laurel and Hardy movie, the duck wrangler manages to use his paddle to propel the naughty bird in the direction of the cage, where three small women tussle, toss him in and shut the wire door behind. I can’t stop laughing. “Every night,” my butler Kanishka Sandaruwan shakes his head with a smile, turns a key, and restarts his electric rickshaw. It’s edging near dusk at Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle Resort, time for sundowners facing the sea as the skies go violet, canary, persimmon. I’ve got to get to my villa to change, but I also want to drink in as much of the resort as I can before night falls. It feels like a real village, an echo of the world beyond its gates. Kanishka points out the path the coconut ladies will bike during the day. “Just call them if you want some water,” he says. “It’s for the whole neighborhood.” Indeed, the next afternoon I’m sitting at my pool and spy two women carting coconuts. I wave, they come over and hack one open on my deck. I sip it in my lounge chair as I watch the peacocks hop among the treetops. >>

As we glide over a bridge

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Who knew peacocks were songbirds?

TropicSurf’s buoyant instructors.

Market-fresh fish in Tangalle.

Sometimes the amount of wild peacocks in Sri Lanka makes you feel like you’re in an aviary-zoo park; in fact, here, they’re as common as pigeons. But the peacocks are so tame that they come when you call—or, if you just hit the right notes. “One evening I flung open the windows only to find peacocks staring at me,” says Kathrine Hinds-Kobrin, the wife of the general manager, Tamir Kobrin, who ushered the resort to its opening last year. “Something told me to sing. So I sang to them and they stayed. Tamir thought I was crazy, singing to peacocks.” We are all dining in Il Mare, the Italian restaurant that’s among the most expensive eateries in the country. That’s not as dubious a distinction as it sounds. Rather, it’s a testament to the change finally afoot that the economy can support, three hours from Colombo (residents of the capital have been known to make the trip for special dinners), an upscale larder hawking homemade pastas, protected designation of origin cheeses and delicacies, and an oeno-snob’s dream of a wine cellar. Tangalle is on the rise, and that’s a particularly feel-good fact considering the scale of the devastation wrought here by the 2004 tsunami. Some villages and hotels took a decade to rebuild or relocate, and it is still slow-going, but investment is coming. In nearby Hambantota there’s a futuristic convention center presumably meant for folks arriving in the area’s shiny new airport, though it only hosts domestic flights for now—a good thing for spotlight-shy travelers seeking their own patches of palm fronds and sand. This stretch of south coast between fort town Galle and Yala National Park is drawing increasing trickles of visitors who are learning what intrepid wave-chasers have known for years: there are empty beaches with consistent waves perfect for surfing or sun-worship; there are cetaceans, pachyderms and predators aplenty to spy offshore and inland; heritage sites worthy of your inner archeologist wait nearby; and the photogenic town of Tangalle bustles with lots of real life and practically no one selling tchotchkes. Little kids wearing all-white , the girls with identical

An Anantara guest room.

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braided pigtails, roam the streets. A guy is getting his hair cut in a barber chair in the produce market. New recruits march in formation past the Art Deco-style war memorial tower on the ocean promenade. On the fishing dock, business is old school. Two guys with a ledger sit at a folding table, marking weights and prices with pencils. The grimy scale on the slick asphalt is of the cheap bathroom variety. Bushels of shiny silver and fat red fish are unloaded off the boats tied together 10-deep, and passed forward across bows in the absence of a pier. I wonder what the chances are that I’d seen these fishermen the morning before. I had chugged out from Mirissa, about an hour west of here, at sunrise for a >>

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/ beyond /g e t a w a y

SAY HELLO TO THE NEW HILTON BALI RESORT.

Sitting atop a 40-meter cliff with stunning views of the Indian Ocean, Hilton Bali Resort offers breathtaking sights from the majority of the guest rooms, extensive lush gardens and one of the most picturesque secluded beaches on the island. Tropical atmosphere and Balinese traditions are reflected in its design and warm service delivery.

Experience our opening with the exclusive limited period offer Receive 5000 Hilton Honors bonus points* on your stay when you book direct at BaliResort.Hilton.com

whale watch. As the headlands shrank behind us over the three-hour sail out to deeper waters, we kept passing these little boats on their way back in. I was shocked that so many of what looked like juryrigged tubs plied such rough seas, so far from home. Possibly even less seaworthy was one of the other tourist boats with which we found ourselves circling the whales. Our comfortable boat, of Mirissa Water Sports, had only 20 people and space to spread out; this one, by contrast, was top-heavy. It looked like it had 100, all on its upper deck, and every time a whale appeared, all the passengers would rush to that side, making the boat visibly list, and leaving three poor crew members to run to the other side, and hang their bodies off the boat for ballast. Take note: sectors of the tourism industry are still nascent so be sure to do your research before booking potentially dangerous excursions. TropicSurf, for instance, takes me out into the waves—and these are guys you can trust with not just your safety but also your self-esteem. They’ve scouted all the area beaches to see which are best suited for every level surfer. As a virtual beginner, I’m brought to a lovely, calm arc of a bay that is completely empty, and feels like a lagoon with its consistent meter-deep water table and soft rolling waves. Harrison Biden, my early-twenties Australian instructor, stands at the point before they break, lines me up if I am crooked, and gives me a little push if I am paddling too slowly. I catch and stand up on every single wave, and not swallowing a liter of seawater nor struggling against an unseen riptide does not make the morning any less gratifying. It is still however, exhausting, so upon my return to the Anantara, I practically run to the spa—or, I would if Kanishka didn’t intercept me with his rickshaw. The treatment rooms are two-bedroomapartment huge, and the therapists of the highest order, but oh, my, the relaxation rooms. It’s a simple

The Anantara mojito cart is a sweet ride.

HILTON BALI RESORT

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Reclining at Mulkirigala Rock Temple.

idea: juices, nuts, fresh and dried fruits in shaded courtyards with feng shui water walls to help you keep riding that Zen wave for as long as possible. There’s one last ride I want to take, and that’s the champagne cart parked at the main pool. It’s attached to a tricycle, like an ice cream cart, but filled with booze. A bartender sees me sniffing around and hustles over for a mojito-making lesson. He’s unimpressed with my muddling skills (it seems I need less upper-arm thrust, more wrist action), and even less so when I start pedaling his bar away. “Don’t worry,” I call over my shoulder. It’s a slow-speed chase, and I’m a naughty duck. But this time it’s the other guests at the pool cheering. I’m heading their way with mojitos.

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the details Anantara Tangalle Peace Haven Its own little village— including a standalone cooking school and a vast spa—on a private bay, right near town. The local singers greeting you at the entrance are just the first members you encounter of a wholly friendly staff who seem nothing but overjoyed to be here; lucky you if charming, thoughtful Shehan organizes your private dining experience. tangalle.anantara.com; doubles from US$235. activities Mirissa Water Sports Whale watches usually spot dolphins too; daily boats at 6:30 a.m. mirissawatersports.lk.; US$53. Mulkirigala Rock Temple Reclining Buddhas and fantastical murals in caves sprinkled up 206-meter-high stairs. admission Rs200. TropicSurf The biggest swells are April to October; from November to March the waves are smaller and conditions calmer. tangalle. anantara.com; lessons from US$75 per person per hour.

Udawalawe National Park Rivals the best savannah reserves in Africa for spotting elephants, who roam all over these lightly vegetated 308-square-kilometer lands. dwc.gov.lk; admission Rs3,500. Yala National Park With the highest density of leopards in the world, this coastal reserve on the southeast corner of the country also has sloth bears, mongeese and elephants. yalasrilanka.lk; admission R3,688 for foreign adults, R1,037.52 for foreign children, plus jeep fees of US$40 for half-day, US$75 for full day.

Post-swim in Yala.

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Brazil’s Quiet Side

Three fantastic hotels are luring travelers away from the beach and into the mountains. By Catesby Holmes Photogr aphs by André Klotz

The reading room at Fazenda Catuçaba, in the Brazilian state of São Paulo.

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Though l ast year’s Olympic Games prompted a wave of interest in Brazil, most travelers still stick to a fairly standard itinerary. But there’s more to the country than its famous coastline and cosmopolitan cities. Those willing to venture just a few hours (and many winding kilometers) inland from Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo will discover a whole other side to this oft-pigeonholed South American nation—including a lush, mountainous region of cloudobscured peaks; cow-dotted pastureland; and pockets of the ancient Atlantic Forest. In this scenic setting, three quietly ambitious hotels are cultivating a stylish new vision of Brazilian turismo rural— going beyond the dude-ranch-style experience with high-end amenities, delicious farm-to-table dining and luxury-minded nature excursions. Sylvan charm is a common factor, but delve a little deeper and each property has a distinct personality, so travelers of every stripe can find what they’re after, and escaping the beaten path is remarkably affordable. Bucolic as they are, inland Brazil’s hotels aren’t just detours—check in to any one and you’ll find they’re worthy destinations all on their own. >>

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RESERVA DO IBITI’POCA

Clockwise from top left: An

outdoor tub and shower; a woodstove in the main dining room; Reserva do Ibitipoca’s resident parrot.

Even intrepid drivers will have to whiteknuckle it down the rutted, 24-kilometer dirtand-brick road from Lima Duarte, but it’s worth it to reach Reserva do Ibitipoca, which sits in a valley on a nature reserve four hours northwest of Rio. Modeled after an 18thcentury mansão de fazenda, or farm manor, the 12-room eco-retreat strikes a balance between historic charm and modern luxury. The hallways and public spaces are adorned with works commissioned from local artists— replicas of old maps and watercolors of indigenous flora—while rooms feature

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Egyptian-cotton linens, claw-foot tubs on heated bathroom floors and iPads preloaded with the spa menu and pictures of the endangered monkeys that live nearby. Here, sustainability is more than just a buzzword: solar panels heat the water, and much of the food is grown on site. But the hotel’s cofounder, philanthropist Renato Machado, has a larger mission. He bought the first parcel of the farmstead—now 4,000 hectares—35 years ago to reforest the Ibitipoca hills and preserve wildlife corridors linking the terrain to the neighboring Ibitipoca State Park. In 2008, he opened the hotel to showcase the region’s beauty. Machado is invested in the social and economic health of the community, too: three longtime staffers are now co-owners of the property. The state of Minas Gerais is a rural one known for its hospitality and hearty food—the Brazilian analogue of the American South. Ibitipoca exemplifies this spirit with group outings on horseback and morning yoga classes that cultivate a sense of community among guests. Dinner is also convivial, served at a communal table in the wood-clad dining room or by candlelight outdoors. Musical performances fill weekend evenings. Even António, the resident parrot, is friendly, greeting new arrivals with an outstretched wing. Still, there’s plenty of time and impetus for solo reverie—I got lost in thought while reading to a soundtrack of crickets on the wraparound porch. For those guests seeking true solitude, don’t miss the chance stay a night at the hotel’s mountaintop cabin. ibiti.com; doubles from R$1,537. >>

©2015 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, The Luxury Collection and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.

HOTELS THAT DEFINE THE DESTINATION™ Nestled among stunning beaches, lush coconut groves, with never-ending views of the emerald-green Phang Nga Bay and idyllic landscapes of the Phuket coastline, The Naka island is an exclusive boutique resort on Naka Yai Island, located just off the Phuket coast with 10 minutes speedboat journey.

THE NAKA ISLAND A LUXURY COLLECTION RESORT & SPA, PHUKET 32 MOO. 5, PAKLOK, THALANG, PHUKET 83110 THAILAND TEL 66 76 371 400 FAX 66 76 371 401 THELUXURYCOLLECTION.COM/NAKAISLAND

/ beyond /t h r e e s t a y s FAZENDA CATUÇABA

From left: The patio at Fazenda Catuçaba; harvesting vegetables from the property’s garden.

Rusticity is its own sort of luxury at Fazenda Catuçaba, which dispenses with traditional service and modern conveniences (say goodbye to Internet, TV and mobile reception) in favor of more soul-satisfying immersion in nature. Arriving at this mid-19th-century farmstead just over 160 kilometers from São Paulo, I was treated as an old friend who’d come to stay awhile: warmly welcomed (with freshsqueezed juice), escorted to one of five simple but elegant blue-and-white cottages (some with fireplaces, all with mountain views), provided a menu of activities (hiking, rock climbing, rainforest tours, milking the cows), informed of

dinnertime (8:30 p.m.) and then left to my own devices. The food, much of which comes from the Fazenda’s organic gardens, is unpretentious, flavorful, vegetable-centric and delivered without fanfare, accompanied by French wines. The staff is local, and they’ll happily help you if you need them—sometimes the service is downright exceptional, like when they whipped up and served me a lavish midhike picnic in the woods. This level of serenity and independence may not be for everyone, but it’s a true escape for, say, honeymooners or anyone who could use some forced relaxation and time unplugged. The real world has rarely felt so far away as it does in the rhythms of life here: a steamy hike followed by a dip in a cool lake, a trek on horseback through magnificent mountain terrain, a cold glass of Alsatian white at sunset, and, at the end of the day, retiring to a spacious, minimalist room with a king-size bed and soaking tub. Catuçaba is about connecting—with nature, with friends, with yourself. Eventually, sans smartphone and Netflix, in your wooden chaise longue encircled by emerald hills and crowing roosters, that’s exactly what you’ll do. catucaba.com; doubles from R$2,990. >>

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/ beyond /t h r e e s t a y s treatments incorporate native ingredients, like the mineral-rich mud from neighboring Minas Gerais that is used in a popular full-body exfoliating scrub. A wellness focus too often implies skimpy spa cuisine, but the food here rivals many São Paulo restaurants. That’s thanks to chef Gabriel Broide, who lights up talking about foraging in the jungle for new plants and pushing local cheese makers to experiment. His enthusiasm comes through in dishes like a velvety sous vide brook trout or Black Angus ribs served with roasted hearts of palm and fresh-banana vinaigrette. Word has it there are horses, a hiking trail and a waterfall you can pedal to on one of the hotel’s mountain bikes. But with pampering like this, you’d be forgiven for never venturing outside. botanique.com.br; doubles from R$1,414. From top: A lounge at Botanique includes a telescope for stargazing; Botanique’s library.

BOTANIQUE HOTEL & SPA When it opened a few years back, Botanique quickly became a high-fashion destination, drawing socialites and celebrities to the Mantiqueira Mountains with promises of relaxation, anonymity and haute cuisine. These days, the vibe is intentionally lowerkey (though many well-heeled São Paulo residents still arrive by helicopter—otherwise it’s a two-hour drive). The service, however, remains as superb as ever, with a staff who pride themselves on predicting guests’ every whim. Local spirits were arranged on the bureau before I’d even thought to reach for a drink. Breakfast in bed was by design rather than special request. The modern glass-andstone building’s 17 guest rooms are expansive and luminous, with floor-to-ceiling windows, white cowhide rugs on reclaimed-wood floors and accent walls of rough-hewn boulders. Bathrooms are decked out with Brazilian chocolate slate and claw-foot tubs, and clever design details—like the one-way screens that allow guests to have both privacy and uninterrupted views—are a signature. The real centerpiece, though, is the 900-square-meter spa, where a glass-walled sauna overlooks the valley floor almost 1,600 meters below. A saltwater hot tub mimics the effects of a soak in the Dead Sea, and many

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A 24/7 ESCAPE. TRANQUIL BY DAY. ELECTRIC BY NIGHT. SITUATED BETWEEN MAENAM AND BO PHUT, IT HAS THE FINEST AND MOST PRISTINE BEACH LOCATION IN THAILAND, OVERLOOKING STUNNING BEACHES AND LUSH FORESTS, W RETREAT KOH SAMUI AWAKENS AS THE SUN GOES DOWN, IGNITING THE UNEXPECTED. ILLUMINATING.. ENVIRONS. TAKE IT EASY. SURROUNDED BY VERDANT FOLIAGE, EACH OF OUR 74 PRIVATE-POOL RETREATS BOASTS A PRIVATE OUTDOOR POOL AND INFINITE ISLAND VIEWS. INSIDE, PREMIER TECHNOLOGY MEETS W SIGNATURE BED, BLISS® SPA AMENITIES AND WHATEVER/WHENEVER® SERVICE. W RETREAT KOH SAMUI T 66 77 915 999 / F 66 77 915 998 EXPLORE WHAT’S NEW / NEXT WRETREATKOHSAMUI.COM WHOTELS.COM/KOHSAMUI

Umbrella Drinks

Pornsak Na Nakorn

It doesn’t get much better than sipping a cocktail while looking out over the ocean, but the best beach bars offer more than just booze and tunes with a view. We're after good vibes, tasty drinks, and a setting so beautiful it could make a grown man cry. Here, our favorite destinations for seaside sundowners, and which bars do it best.

Twilight at Baba Nest rooftop bar, in Phuket.

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beach bars / From top: The cove at Sunday Beach Club; bean bags and beers.

Sundays Beach Club

At the bottom of a steep limestone cliff in Uluwatu, Sundays commands its own secluded pocket cove. Admire the pristine white sands and sparkling waters below before climbing into the inclinator (basically an elevator tilted at an angle) for the two-minute descent. To board, you’ll need to buy a day pass (Rp300,000 for adults, Rp50,000 children 3–11 years, free for kids under three), which gives you beach access, a towel, Wi-Fi, Rp150,000 of food and beverage credit, and the use of kayaks, snorkeling gear, and stand-up paddleboards. Bring your own surfboard if you want to tackle Uluwatu’s legendary reef breaks just offshore. Every seat in the large round bar has an ocean view. Jack’s Pulled Pork Sandwich, made with smoked pork braised in Jack Daniel’s, and served on toasted sourdough with melted smoked cheddar, caramelized onions, and sliced green apple, makes a perfect après-surf meal. Imaginative bar concoctions include the Burning Mandarin, a blend of chili-infused vodka, triple-sec, orange juice and cranberry juice; and the Daiquri Tango, where white rum meets triple-sec, fresh mango, lime juice and strawberry purée. sundaysbeachclub.com; cocktails Rp150,000 –175,000.

Azul Beach Club

From top: Azul Beach Club is home to Bali's first tiki bar; order the Island Nectar.

BALI BY Joe Cummings

Finns Beach Club

At Canggu, the bohemian luxe enclave north of Seminyak, Finns offers an impressive 170 meters of Indian Ocean frontage facing Berawa, an uncrowded surf break where rocky reefs tip perfectly shaped point breaks. What puts Finns near the top of the list is that it’s the only place in Bali—possibly all of Asia—where surfers can drop their sticks on the beach and step into luxury wearing boardshorts.

Watch wave-carvers from around the globe negotiate blue peaks while lounging on day beds scattered along the beach. Or take up a post at the pool bar, at the end of a 30-meter infinity pool fitted with state-of-the-art underwater speakers. Resident DJs stir the beat from late afternoon until closing. A rambling open-air pavilion fashioned from bamboo, salvaged wood, stone and sand offers shaded seating. The bar

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menu targets Instagram hippies with dishes like the Surfer Bowl, an artfully arranged pile of sweet potato, tempeh, cured ham, poached egg, dried tomatoes, mushrooms, cabbage, feta, kale and goji berries doused with Greek yogurt and lemon. Signature cocktails include Chénola, a blend of light rum, peach liqueur, passion fruit and lemon juice. finnsbeachclub.com; cocktails Rp110,000–120,000.

l e f t c o l u m n : c o u r t e s y o f AZ u l b e a c h c l u b ( 2 ) r i g h t c o l u m n : c o u r t e s y o f s u n d ay s b e a c h c l u b ( 2 )

With its lofty, three-story bamboo tree house, Bali’s only tiki bar is instantly recognizable. Opened in Legian a year ago, the large, open-air bar rises from the sand to a second level with sunset pods and an infinity pool overlooking sea and palms. Behind the bar, welltrained can-shakers fill custom-made, sculpted tiki-god glassware with signature cocktails. Try the Mai Tai 2.0, which fuses three rums and selected fruit juices. Chef Arief Wicaksono elevates Azul’s menu beyond the usual beachbar fare. Step out of the surf, shake off the sand, and order the calamari, sprinkled with lemon, crisped garlic, and shallots. Sturdier appetites will appreciate the wood-fired pizzas and Asian-influenced tapas. azulbali.com; cocktails Rp100,000–120,000.

The Bar at Chena Huts by Uga Escapes

“Huts” is something of a misnomer for these luxe thatched-roof abodes on Sri Lanka’s savagely beautiful coastline. Wildlife from neighboring Yala National Park roams through the 14 villas and the vegetation that grows freely throughout the sprawling grounds. Situated by the pool and overlooking the crashing surf, the hotel’s intimate bar serves cocktails in an achingly atmospheric setting—though you have to checkin to enjoy it; the bar is only open to guests. ugaescapes.com/chenahuts; Rs148,500 per night, all-inclusive.

From left: Double the bubbles at Chena Huts; shaking up the safari.

Sri Lanka BY Diana Hubbell

Travellers’ Bar at the Galle Face Hotel Colombo

From left: Colonial charm

top row: courtesy of chena huts (2) m i d d l e r o w : c o u r t e s y o f G a l l e Fa c e H o t e l c o l o m b o ( 2 ) b o t t o m r o w : c o u r t e s y o f o w l a n d t h e p u s s y c at ( 2 )

on the coast; try a julep.

When this grande dame finished a 30-month top-to-toe touch-up in 2016, so did its iconic seaside watering hole. While a fresh coat of paint may have given the Travellers’ Bar an injection of energy, it hasn’t taken away from the place’s graceful colonial aura. Toast the bygone days with a Basilicum, a pineappleinfused riff on a basil smash, or a Hugo, made with elderflower syrup and mint leaves from the hotel’s garden. gallefacehotel.com; cocktails Rs900–1,200.

Beach Shack at The Owl and the Pussycat

From above: The Beach Shack, on the ocean's edge; or ask to be served poolside.

Named for the 1871 Edward Lear poem, this quirky 17-room boutique packs plenty of whimsy into its palm-shaded grounds. Whether you’re dining at the Runcible Spoon or lounging by the pool, you’re never far from the ocean’s edge. Sipping one of the custom cocktails at The Beach Shack offers the loveliest view of all. Try the Gingered Owl, with a zingy blend of locally distilled arrack, fresh ginger, and fiery Sri Lankan village snake chilies. otphotel.com; cocktails Rs800–1,200.

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beach bars / Rock Pool at W GOA

From the hippie enclave of the ‘60s to the playground of the fashionforward that it is today, North Goa’s Vagator beach has gentrified considerably, thanks to a clutch of new swish spots that have set up base here. The W Goa opened at the end of 2016, the brand’s debut in India, and is home to the oh-so-cool Rock Pool bar. Set on a dramatic cliff in the shadow of the 16thcentury Chapora Fort, it overlooks the cobalt waves of the Arabian Sea. Settle in for sundowners on the billowy cabanas, poolside sunbeds or pop-colored thrones scattered through the 4,500-square-meter space. As the DJ spins some beats, arm yourself with a Goan port wine or local feni-based house special cocktail, and pick a vantage point to watch the salmon skies turn to indigo above an arc of red cliffs that staggers into the sea. All set to up the ante on Goa’s music scene, Rock Pool’s DJ stage has, in the short period since its inception, already seen top talent from Spain, Moscow and across India. w-goa.com; cocktails Rs500–1,200, non-guests typically pay a cover charge on party nights of Rs3,000 per couple.

From top: The newly

opened W Goa is set on palm-lined Vagator Beach; the hotel's Rock Pool bar lives up to its name.

goa

BY Mal avik a Bhattacharya

From top: Chef

Sarah Todd; her famed surf and turf; the view at Antares.

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t o p r o w : c o u r t e s y o f r o c k p o o l at W GOA ( 2 ) b o t t o m r o w : c o u r t e s y o f A n ta r e s ( 3 )

Antares

Model-turned-Masterchef Australia contestant Sarah Todd brings classic Aussie surf and turf to Goa’s Vagator beach at this breezy hilltop bar. With uninterrupted views of the Arabian Sea, sunsets here are quite ethereal, set to experimental live music and lit by fairy lights. Sandy toes are moments away, as stairs lead down the cliff to the water. Australian barbecue staples meet Goan flavors on a menu that features glazed ribs, crab xacuti, and poi bread. Sip on Australian whites, or cocktails infused with Indian touches, such as the Kokum Margarita, or the Spicy Mango Martini with green chili and lime. antaresgoa.com; cocktails Rs425– 495. >>

VIETNAMESE DREAMS

FALL IN LOVE WITH A PLACE “WHERE MYTH MEETS LUXURY”

WITHOUT A DOUBT, there is a good reason why this is the official tag line of the InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort. This tropical peninsula holds a treasure trove of myths and legends just waiting to be discovered—by you. A secluded private location nestled amidst the lavishly green rainforest paints a picture straight out of a fantasy—a landscape that surely will inspire the poets within us for generations to come. Aptly named the “crown jewel” of South East Asia, the resort was designed by the famed American architect extraordinaire Mr. Bill Bensley. Vietnamese design, history and myth reimagined to create a magical retreat over four levels— Heaven, Sky, Earth and Sea. From the moment you arrive you’ll be pampered by the InterContinental’s personalized service and unparalleled amenities. Indulgences fill each room, suite, penthouse and villa at the resort.

Views make the most of the drama of the setting while interiors drape you in Vietnamese-inspired décor. Every accommodation is equipped with lavish bathroom amenities, including a separate bathtub, rainforest shower and couple’s vanity sinks. Experience culinary artistry at La Maison 1888, led by three-star Michelin chef, Pierre Gagnaire. Under the wings of Mr. Gagnaire, La Maison 1888 made it to the top list of must try restaurant in the region. La Maison 1888’s setting tells the story of a colonial French-Eurasian family through architecture and interior design. Private dining rooms reveal the characters of this fictional clan: from the sensible Accountant’s Room, to the thrill-seeking Traveler’s Room, to the risqué Le Boudoir de Madame. Soothe your body and soul at HARNN Heritage Spa, Asia Best Resort Spa 2016 by World Spa Awards. Crafted from healing wisdom passed down through generations, HARNN Heritage Spa is inspired by the practice of traditional Asian medicine and naturopathy, each treatment is thoughtfully designed to enhance your wellness. Discover Club InterContinental, the

realm of luxury, “A Resort Within A Resort”. From the moment you step off the plane, you’ll be taken on a journey of unprecedented indulgence. Your Club InterContinental experience revolves around the exclusive Sun Peninsula Lounge, a stylishly designed guest lounge with all-day refreshments, all the while offering some of the resort’s best views overlooking lush gardens and private bay. Revel in the sublime beauty of Son Tra Peninsula, create memories to cherish, and be pampered every step of the way.

beach bars /

Catch Beach Club

Get a taste of Saint-Tropez at this charming bar with its weatherworn timbers underfoot, and starch white linen umbrellas shielding you from the sun. Gone but not forgotten, this bar took a multi-year hiatus from Phuket’s shores following its closure on Surin Beach, but stormed back to prominence last December when it reopened on Bangtao Beach just up the coast. A minimum Bt2,000 day pass includes limited food and drink and beach-boy service, with the beats provided by in-house radio station Catch FM. catchbeachclub.com; cocktails Bt250–320.

phuket BY simon ostheimer

Baba Nest

You’d be hard pressed to find a better spot to take in one of Phuket’s legendary sunsets than this gorgeous rooftop bar. Perched high above the trees at the end of the Cape Panwa peninsula, the broad wooden deck is bordered by two infinity pools that overlook the wide blue ocean. Book ahead to snag one of the small tables surrounded with floor pillows, and lose yourself in one of their inventive cocktails—the Sake and Midori Mojito is a winner. babaphuket.com; cocktails Bt488–980. >>

Hype Luxury Boat Club takes the party to go. Inset: Snacks at Baba Nest.

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pornsak na nakorn (2)

Hype Luxury Boat Club

The formula is simple: a beach club on the sea. Why restrict yourself to one stretch of sand when you can have them all? Every Tuesday to Sunday, Bt2,900 buys you a welcome cocktail, tropical fruit and finger food, with a showy drinks menu starring Moet & Chandon, Belvedere and Patron, and a cocktail list that comes served in three possible sizes: glass, bucket and maxi bucket. Casting off at 1 p.m., the back-sailed catamaran cruises the waters around Phuket while a DJ elevates the mood from lounge to full-on party. hypeboatclub. com; cocktails Bt250-1,900.

Horizon Business Choice

Personalized Service & Heightened Luxury at the Horizon Club Rate starts at Php15,500++ per night for a minimum of two (2) nights

Let us take care of your travel needs so you can focus on business. Enjoy a panoramic view of the vibrant Bonifacio Global City from one of our Horizon Deluxe rooms and luxuriate in the exclusivity of the Horizon Club Lounge on Level 40 with access to daily breakfast, cocktails in the evening, meeting rooms and more. inclusions: • • • • • • • • •

Room accomodations on the Horizon Club floor Exclusive Horizon Club Lounge access and privileges Complimentary daily breakfast, all-day refreshments and evening cocktails at the Horizon Club Lounge between 5PM - 7PM, daily Complimentary Wi-Fi access Complimentary local calls from the room (except calls to mobile numbers and NDD) Late checkout until 6PM (subject to availability) Use of Kerry Sports gym Use of the outdoor lap pool Choice of one (1) additional amenity from the benefit menu*

*Go to http://www.bit.ly/HorizonBusinessChoice to see the full list of inclusions, benefit menu, terms and conditions

30th Street corner 5th Avenue, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig, 1634 Metro Manila, Philippines Tel (632) 820 0888 Fax (632) 865 3600 Email reservations.slfm@shangri-la.com www.shangri-la.com/fort @shangrilafort

beach bars /

Singapore BY Anna Chittenden

Coastes

From top: Inside bright and breezy FOC

Sentosa; limes for your G&T; have a sip, take a dip.

With its rustic Robinson Crusoe vibe, Coastes is a casual but charming beach bar and restaurant located on Siloso Beach. Whitewashed tables and chairs dot the wide wooden deck while lush green palms provide some much needed shade. The atmosphere is laid-back and relaxed. Come here for a long lazy lunch with friends and order an ice-cold bottle of Whispering Angel rosé wine or a Singapore Sling. During the month of August, Coastes holds Jazz by the Beach, where some of Singapore’s most talented jazz artists perform on their powdery shores. coastes.com; cocktails S$16–17.

Tanjong Beach Club

Inspired by the retro beach clubs of yesteryear, Tanjong Beach Club is a fun and fabulous seaside destination for those who love to sip on their mojitos with sand between their toes. Weekends find bikini-clad revelers dancing to up-and-coming DJs as night falls. Try the Sunset Daiquiri with mango and papaya, and the Piña Coladas that come in a whole pineapple. This is a great spot for daytime activities too, so grab a group of friends for an afternoon of beach volleyball, or stand-up paddleboarding in the cove. Once you've worked up an appetite, order the fresh snapper ceviche with lime and avocado, and the juicy lobster bun. tanjongbeachclub.com; cocktails S$19–23.

From top: Decked out at Coastes;

sample the seafood platter; the blissed-out beachfront.

From top: Tanjong Beach Club; drink a

boatload of Hollywood Punch; pair cocktails with crustaceans.

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l e f t c o l u m n : c o u r t e s y o f ta n j o n g b e a c h c l u b ( 3 ) m i d d l e c o l u m n : c o u r t e s y o f F OC S e n t o s a ( 3 ) right column: courtesy of coastes (3)

FOC Sentosa

This new kid on the block is bringing Barcelona’s vibrant beach culture to the sunny shores of Singapore. The concept of Foc, meaning fire in Catalan, is the brainchild of Michelinstarred Chef Nandu Jubany, while the drinks were dreamt up by mixologist Dario Nocentini. Try the Never Ending Summer with vodka, watermelon and raspberry, or the Thai Massage with whisky, jasmine and lemongrass. Swing by for their live music gigs every Thursday evening, showcasing local artists including female vocalist Kunjung Wida. focsentosa.com; cocktails S$14–22.

Your Own Island Empire

ON THIS LUSH AND LUXE CORNER OF BALI, YOU REALLY CAN HAVE IT ALL YOU KNOW BALI’S ICONIC ROCK BAR, RIGHT?

It’s the it place to be at sunset, perched over Jimbaran Bay with good tunes, a chill crowd... Well, I’ll let you in on a little secret: If you stay at The Villas at Ayana Resort, you’ll get an exclusive invite to breakfast at Rock Bar. Which is how I found myself sipping a latte on the edge of the isle, waves crashing against the cliffs, with only a few other tables for company. It was a serene start to the day, and an auspicious one too, for, as I quickly learned, Ayana Resort and Spa is all about access. Rolling across 90 lush hectares just 20 minutes from the airport, the estate that includes Ayana Resort and Rimba Jimbaran Bali is a beautiful fiefdom whose many treasures are primed for all guests to discover. Whether you stay at one of the 771 well cared-for guest rooms, including 120 brand new ones and the blinged-out Rimba suites, or in a palatial Villa, you can flit among the rooftop pool at Mexican cantina Unique, the secluded patch of sand 197 steps down from the resort at Kubu Beach, and the cabanas of Tsujiri, the first outlet in Southeast Asia of the famed Japanese teahouse, to name just three of the 18 restaurants and bars here. To ensure you get back to Rock Bar before sunset for your priority entrance, there’s a trolley that runs the circuit of the property every 10 minutes, allowing you to make this land your own. But I say take it as a personal challenge to find gorgeous hidden nooks like the Orchid Tea Lounge, a lovely greenhouse tucked in a valley, and my two favorite pools (there are a whopping 12!): the Pamukkale, Turkey–inspired Villas pool, and the cliff-hugging Ocean Beach pool—from which photos are the very definition of #viewsfordays. Speaking of taking to the waters, allot yourself a couple of hours in the all-curing, 60-jet watercourse Aquatonic Seawater Therapy Pool, and then rub out the rest of your kinks at one of the two spas. This is a land of plenty—try your hardest not to fill up

on Ah Yat Abalone’s delish all-you-can-eat dim sum lest you have no space for a classic steakhouse feast of Wagyu cuts, shrimp cocktail and truffle mashed potatoes at Dava. If you’re staying at The Villas, just summon your charming butler to roll you home in his golf cart. Sleep tight, for he’ll be back in the morning to serve you a floating breakfast in your private pool—or, indeed, to escort you to Breakfast on the Rocks. Both are outstanding spots from which to survey your lush lands as you prep for another day in paradise.

t r av e l s m a rt e r

The New Goodwill Tour More travelers are spending their money—and limited vacation days—on trips that help make the world a better place. Here’s how you can join them. by stacy perman Illustr ations by SHOUT Once a popular way for university students to spend a gap year, volunteer travel—voluntourism, as it’s now called—has become one of the most booming segments of the travel industry, largely because of the changing tastes of both millennials and retirees. A Tourism and Hospitality Research study from 2014 estimated that more than 1.6 million tourists spend around US$2 billion annually on volunteer vacations. The explosion of programs means that there’s one for any budget and level of involvement, as well as for any length of commitment, either as a full trip or as an add-on. Here are five important things to consider before booking your next volunteer trip.

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/ upgrade / In 2015 the word ‘voluntourism’ earned an entry in the Oxford English Dictionary

Decide What Type of Experience You Want

A new crop of travel start-ups caters to a number of price points, skill sets, personal interests and age groups. Trips range from restoring coral reefs and protecting endangered animals to teaching coding. Luxury operators like London-based Hands Up Holidays now pair volunteering opportunities with upscale accommodations. And last spring, Carnival Corporation launched a series of social-impact land excursions on ships that call in to the Dominican Republic. 2

Do Your Research to Find the Right Program

Social media has played a significant role in enabling participants to research thousands of options and share their experiences—both good and bad. Most reputable organizations have websites that provide detailed information about their partners and financials. U.K.-based Global Vision International, for example, gives a breakdown of how its earnings get funneled back into its programs. Veena Rangaswami, who has been organizing independent volunteer trips since 2005, says doing your research is crucial for a successful experience. “Social media helps you to see how good these different organizations are,” she says. 3

Be Prepared for a Background Check

Many organizations now place more emphasis on vetting volunteers than they have in the past. Some groups, like Build Abroad, require background checks, while others send out detailed questionnaires so they can match abilities with needed skills.

Find a Program That Trains Its Volunteers

The earthquakes in Haiti and Nepal have shown how good intentions can go wrong if volunteers are illequipped and unprepared. Many volunteers came to help but didn’t bring their own bedding, supplies or food. “I think that human nature leads a lot of people to want to give back,” says Thomas Kirsch, director of the National Center for Disaster Medicine & Public Health. But, he cautions, “in my experience, untrained and inexperienced volunteers not familiar with disaster environments almost always cause more harm than good.” In response to the failure of rebuilding efforts in Haiti, the World Health Organization created the Emergency Medical Team to train and certify organizations capable of providing care in such environments. The U.S.-based Medical Reserve Corps pretrains health-care volunteers to be deployed in the event of a disaster. 5

Ask Enough Questions

If you plan to vacation for a cause, find out what will be expected of you, as well as the current political climate at your destination. “Think hard about what sort of work you want to do and the end goal,” Rangaswami suggests. “Be clear about your expectations so when you’re on the ground there aren’t too many surprises.” Also ask what your daily out-of-pocket expenses will be and whether ATMs are readily available. Remember too that, even in today’s connected world, there are still many undeveloped areas without Wi-Fi.

Wildlife & Environmental Conservation Adriatic Dolphin Project

The Blue World Institute of Marine Research & Conservation runs field stations in Croatia where volunteers can help scientists collect data about the bottlenose dolphins in the Adriatic Sea. Volunteers must be at least 18 years old, and be able to swim and speak English.

get connected

These 19 companies will help you plan a great volunteer vacation, whether you want to save the planet or teach a kid to read.

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trip length & Cost

Twelve-day projects are offered from May to September; from US$936–$1,000. blue-world.org.

Blue Ventures

Founded more than a decade ago, this

group specializes in marine wildlife conservation and helping coastal communities find alternatives to fishing. Volunteers can help rebuild fisheries or monitor coral reefs in East Timor and Madagascar. While all programs include dive training, the company offers dive certification in Madagascar.

Earthwatch has paired volunteers with scientists in more than 40 countries. They have studied the feeding habits of killer whales in Iceland, investigated archaeological ruins in Mongolia, and monitored the impact of climate change on bees and butterflies in the Indian Himalayas.

trip length & Cost

One week to 15 days; from US$1,475– $3,975, including research costs. earthwatch.org.

Programs average six weeks (shorter stays available); prices start at US$1,630 and include science and scuba training and certifications. blueventures.org.

Earthwatch Institute

The granddaddy of voluntourism,

trip length & Cost

Farming & Agriculture World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms This global online network connects

organic farmers in 120 countries with volunteers, known as “ wwoofers,” willing to help with chores such as planting, harvesting, digging trenches and cleaning pens in exchange for accommodation and food. Some actual recent examples: volunteers can try beekeeping in Brazil, plant mango seedlings in Belize or harvest berries in Belgium. trip length & Cost

Varies with each farm; US$40 membership fee. wwoof.net.

Home Building Build Abroad

Founded in 2010 by two architecture students, this organization partners with local groups in Costa Rica, Guatemala, Nepal, Peru and Thailand to rebuild community infrastructure, construct new homes, and repair schools, churches and orphanages. Volunteers live with host families and are required to submit to background checks. Staff members are on hand to provide building assistance and on-the-ground support. trip length & Cost

One week to six months; from US$510–$6,490. buildabroad.org.

Fuller Center for Housing’s Global Builders

When Millard and Linda Fuller launched this outfit in 2005, their mission was to bring volunteers to Armenia and Nicaragua to build safe and affordable housing. Since then they’ve expanded to 11 countries,

including Thailand, Sri Lanka and India. trip length & Cost

One to two weeks; from US$840– $1,800.fullercenter. org.

Humanitarian Aid Carnival Corporation

Cruise-goers on AIDA, Carnival, Holland America and Princess Cruises can choose social-impact land excursions on ships that sail to the Dominican Republic’s Amber Cove. Travelers take part in volunteer activities such as reforestation projects, tutoring children and teaching English, or building water filters. trip length & Cost

One day; from US$80. carnivalcorp.com.

Cross-Cultural Solutions

Since 1994, this company has helped some 35,000 volunteers complete projects in nine countries. CCS organizes programs that range from improving literacy to conducting a vision screening project for children in Thailand. trip length & Cost

One to 12 weeks; from US$2,250– $8,968. crosscultural solutions.org.

Global Volunteers

This organization’s motto is “Local people are always in charge.” Established back in 1984, it partners with resident groups in 17 countries as far ranging as China and the U.S. Volunteer programs focus on things like teaching, planting crops, building and renovating homes, and helping

health-care workers with hygiene programs. trip length & Cost

One to three weeks; from US$1,045– $3,195. globalvolunteers.org.

Room to Read

Visitors can see the impact of the group’s programs in literacy and girls’ education. The trip offers oneof-a-kind access to the projects, an opportunity to meet local teams, and interact with the children, parents and teachers in the programs. A more involved option requires a US$35,000 investment in a fouryear literacy program, which includes a visit at the opening of the Room to Read library you’ve funded. trip length & Cost

Two to three hours; US$25. roomtoread. org.

United Planet

This nonprofit tailors programs according to participants’ interests in education, environment and health. Volunteers, who work 25 to 40 hours a week, may be teaching English in China or working with a community organization in The Philippines. Downtime activities include cultural exploration and excursions, such as taking in a musical theater performance in Havana. trip length & Cost

Short-term projects from one to 12 weeks are available in 10 countries; longerterm projects are offered in 30 countries; from US$1,595, including language training and insurance. united planet.org.

Adventure Volunteering REI Adventures Volunteer Vacations

Teaming up with Conservation Volunteers International Program, the retailer combines projects like restoring wildlife habitats and archaeological sites with adventure travel in the Americas. A 13-day trip to Patagonia’s Torres del Paine National Park mixes hiking and trail maintenance. trip length & Cost

Seven to 13 days; from US$990– $4,395. rei.com/ adventures.

Roadmonkey

This philanthropytrip operator pairs adventure travel with volunteering. It creates excursions for groups of seven to nine people— climbing Mount Kilimanjaro, kayaking in Malawi, cycling in Vietnam—followed by three days of work on a sustainable project with a local nonprofit. trip length & Cost

Eight to 14 days; from US$1,800–$4,700. roadmonkey.net.

Multi-option Programs Edge of Africa

With an emphasis on community and

nature conservation, this 10-year-old organization places people in a variety of projects in three African countries: HIV outreach and awareness, elephant research and teaching schoolchildren English in South Africa; rural medical support and studying lemurs in Madagascar; and tracking gorilla movements in Cameroon. trip length & Cost

Two to eight weeks; from US$1,095 to $7,075. edgeofafrica. com.

Fronteering Travel Services

This group focuses on

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/ upgrade / wildlife, the environment, sustainability and remote communities in 16 countries. Volunteer opportunities include grooming and training sled dogs at a husky ranch in the Arctic, help with island conservation in Indonesia, and collecting data on the world’s rarest horse species, the Wild Takhi, in Mongolia. trip length & Cost

Four to 16 weeks; from US$695–

$2,495. fronteering.com.

Global Vision International

Founded in 1998, GVI works with volunteers on initiatives like reintegrating elephants into natural habitats in Thailand and teaching English to novice monks in Laos. Projects in 10 countries are run by local, on-the-ground directors with 24-hour field-staff

support. GVI also offers add-on activities. trip length & Cost

One to 24 weeks; from US$1,600. gviusa.com.

Maximo Nivel

In Costa Rica, Guatemala and Peru, this organization provides affordable opportunities for volunteers of all ages on projects as varied as working with children, conservation, construction and

DIY Voluntourism

Looking to go it alone? Use these eight resources to help you plan your own philanthropic vacation.

animal care. Cultural extras include salsa dancing and cooking classes. trip length & Cost

One week to one year; from US$595, including homestay accommodations. maximonivel.com.

For the Luxury Traveler Hands Up Holidays

This outfitter combines luxury travel with volunteer

experiences for individuals and families. Travelers can stay at five-star eco-luxury resorts in 32 countries and engage in such projects as kangaroo conservation, teaching business skills to microloan recipients in Peru and building houses in Cambodia. trip length & Cost

Average of 10 days; from US$5,000 per person. handsup holidays.com.

GoAbroad

Launched in 1997, this is an online international portal where volunteers can find travel opportunities in nearly 18,000 verified listings and funding resources. They can also share their experiences, travel tips and program reviews. goabroad.com. 3

Go Overseas

Started by a group of longtime travelers and overseas volunteers, this site offers a robust online directory of volunteer programs that are rated, ranked and searchable by country and project. It offers a social platform for participants, too. gooverseas. com. 4

MovingWorlds

Create a sustainable impact by transferring yours skills to locally led organizations and communities that need your help. MovingWorlds will guide you through a predeparture

program that covers cultural sensitivity, sustainable development and will offer you a ton of other resources and global connections. movingworlds.org.

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GoVoluntouring

Working with Holidays for Humanity, this site aggregates information across the voluntourism spectrum, listing vetted programs in more than 120 countries in categories ranging from medical aid to environmental and wildlife conservation. govoluntouring. com. 5

Grassroots Volunteering

Founded by Shannon O’Donnell, this online database connects travelers to causes and communities, provides info

For the Budget Traveler Seeds

This nonprofit’s projects in Iceland are short-term and include building hiking trails, cleaning up the coastline, refurbishing community centers and organizing cultural festivals. trip length & Cost

Two to three weeks (programs of three to six months are also available); from US$159. seeds.is.

on ways you can support local businesses and communities, all while advocating for more transparency in the voluntour sector. grassrootsvolunteering. org. 6

Idealist

Not only will you be connected with more than 100,000 organizations worldwide, but this agency, which strives to close the gap between intention and action, also offers resources to get you prepared for your trip from lessons on ethics to help translating your experience into daily life upon your return home. idealist.org. 7 National Voluntary Organizations Active in Disaster

This nonprofit is an association of organizations across the U.S. that assists in disaster relief, directing interested volunteers to community and faith-based groups that will provide training for active programs. nvoad.org. 8

Voluntourism

A website and newsletter with information about volunteering programs and organizations, helpful trip-planning advice and a resource page with weekly podcasts with guest interviews. voluntourism.org.

Stay Exquisite Experience a Balinese-inspired sanctuary in tropical splendor at The St. Regis Bali Resort. Nestled on the pristine beach in the stunning enclave of Nusa Dua, this intimate retreat offers unparalleled access to a world of exquisite living. Indulge in A Taste of Luxury package. Reserve 3 nights and be enticed by a complimentary 4th night, daily breakfast and a luxury roundtrip airport transfer. Explore our exceptional offers, visit stregis.com/bali.

ÂŠ2017 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, St. Regis and their logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates. Terms and conditions apply. Black-out dates may apply. Subject to availability.

The St. Regis Bali Resort Nusa Dua Bali Indonesia t. +62 361 8478 111 stregis.com/bali

Stay exquisite at more than 40 St. Regis hotels and resorts worldwide. @stregishotels

/ upgrade /

DEALS | t+l reader specials

CITY BANGKOK

Café hop in Hong Kong, give alms in Luang Prabang and stroll down Macau’s own piece of Paris. This month’s deals will have everyone from foodies to sybarites packing bags for their next trip.

Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit Celebrate the hotel’s fifth anniversary with a stay in one of their top rooms, complete with striking city views, a massive bathtub and Hermès toiletries. The offer includes a sweet gift basket; access to Club Millésime, where treats, gourmet canapés, cocktails and tea are served throughout the day; and daily breakfast, which grants you access to the cheese room that houses fromage hard to come by in Asia. The central location of the hotel, an easy amble to the Skytrain and a stone’s throw from some of Bangkok’s best shopping malls, is a perk in itself. The Deal 5th Anniversary package: a night in a Luxury Club Millésime room, from Bt5,500 for two, through October 31. Save 15%. sofitel-bangkok-sukhumvit.com

A Balinese sunset over the pool at Ayodya Resort.

SUPERSAVER

The Grand Luang Prabang Claim digs at this colonial palace along the banks of the Mekong. With this package, enjoy airport transfers, late check out and breakfast on the terrace looking over the river. A Laotian cooking class and a chance to participate in an almsgiving ceremony also come gratis. The Deal Weekend Getaway Lao New Year package: a night in a Deluxe room, from US$145 for two, through June 30. Save 38%. grandluangprabang.com.

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MACAU

The Parisian Macao One of the newest resorts to open in this city-state looks a lot like the City of Love. Take a stroll down the hotel’s own Champs Élysées, which is home to 150 boutiques; admire

fr o m t o p : c o u r t e s y o f S o f i t e l B a n g k o k S u k h u m v i t; c o u r t e s y o f T h e Gr a n d L u a n g Pr a b a n g

JAKARTA

Grandkemang In the heart of Jakarta’s Kemang district, an area teeming with shopping, dining and entertainment options, this little hotel provides comfortable rooms with a classic design. With this deal, get free movie tickets for two, free drop-off services to surrounding attractions, a 20-percent discount on food and beverages onsite, two pieces of free laundry each day, late check out and access to the hotel’s killer breakfast buffet serving international and local favorites. The Deal Weekend Super deal: a night in a Vivero room, from Rp736,000 for two, book through June 30. Save 20%. mesahotelsandresorts.com.

the grandiose French-inspired design while munching on pastries; and venture up the onsite replica of the Eiffel Tower, to which you get two complimentary tickets with this package. Also included is daily breakfast or lunch, and a surprise souvenir. And if you book two nights, you’ll get to choose either a one-way water jet ticket to Hong Kong for two, tickets to Qube Kindom Kid’s Play Zone or MOP200 in shopping and dining credits. The Deal The Parisian Macao package: a night in a Deluxe room, from HK$1,298 for two, book through December 31. Save up to 25%. parisianmacao.com.

BEACH BALI

c o u r t e s y o f Ay o d ya R e s o r t B a l i

Ayodya Resort Bali This time, skip the swanky, modern hotel for a resort that conjures visions of Bali’s bygone days. With a heavy incorporation of traditional features, as seen in everything from the architecture to the cuisine, you’ll feel immersed in its tropical, beachside location. Book your stay 30 days in advance and enjoy a special discount. The 11 hectares of gardens and fountains that flow to the private beachfront leave plenty of space to take up activities such as Balinese dance, a batik art class, yoga or even beach volleyball. Or, enjoy simpler delights at Ayodya Spa, the beach bar or one of the many onsite restaurants. The Deal Advanced Purchase 20% off: a night in a Deluxe room, from Rp1,500,000 for two, book through June 30. Save 20%. ayodaresortbali.com.

CULTURE HONG KONG

The Dorsett Mongkok These days, when traveling, it seems almost imperative to choose a hotel that offers easy access to the best food spots in the city, especially in Hong Kong where bao are steamed to perfection and egg tarts are

City views from Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit.

cloud-like. From cha chan teng style cafés to Chinese tea parlors to wet markets teeming with goodies, this hotel is surrounded by serious eats and, with this package, is offering two free meal vouchers for nearby joints. Also included is a personalized “eat and shop like a local” guide, and access to the hotel’s lounge where wine and snacks flow freely all day. The Deal 24-Hour Experience package: a night in an Executive room, from HK$770 for two, through December 31. Save 30%. mongkok.dorsetthotels.com. SIEM REAP

Anantara Angkor Resort After a day of travel, there may be no better welcome to this handsome hotel than a foot massage. On top of that, this package includes unlimited tuk-tuk service within Siem Reap, a daily cocktail and gourmet snacks at the lounge, round-trip airport transfers and up to 60 minutes of

complimentary spa time. Just make one of this hotel’s suites your home base for three nights or longer and your vacation will become decidedly more comfortable. The Deal Stay Longer special: a night in a Premier suite, from US$189 for two, through December 23. Save up to 30%. angkor. anantara.com.

FAMILY PENANG

Four Points by Sheraton Penang Conveniently situated between heritage hub George Town and the white sandy shores of Batu Ferringhi, this hotel is your gateway to the best of Penang. Bring the whole family with this package: book a room and get the second one free. In addition, enjoy breakfast for four, discounts on food and beverages at the resort, adventure packs for the kids and, for the adults, comfort kits that include travel essentials. The Deal Buy 1

Free 1 Room package: a night in a Deluxe room, from RM599 for two, through December 31. Save 20%. fourpointspenang. com. KUALA LUMPUR

Aloft Kuala Lumpur Sentral Kuala Lumpur might not typically scream “family vacation,” but with this package the whole crew can get in on a selfie with the Petronas Towers. Book the already spacious Breezy suite and get a complimentary night in a connecting Loft room. The sleek rooms have brightly accented interiors that make for a cheerful stay. Guests with small children can request for the “Camp Aloft” setup—a tent and basket of toys—to make sure everyone is having a good time. The Deal Suite-Up Your Weekend: a night in a Breezy suite, from RM599 two, through December 31. Save 20%. aloftkualalumpursentral. com. — VERONICA INVEEN

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Our exclusive Digital Destination Guide covering the latest and the best of Hong Kong and Macau

SoutheaSt aSia / may 2017

The BesT of

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FREE download available at www.travelandleisuresea.com/hongkong_macau

E s z t e r Pa p p

Alone with the waves in Indonesiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Mentawai Islands, page 74.

/ MAy 2017 / Spirits and myths of the Mentawai Islands | Lush and

historic Bohol boasts the best of the Philippines | Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beach capital, the Gold Coast, sizzles and burns | Eating through Cornwall, in southern, seaside England

Adrift in the Mentawais.

clockwise from right: A newly

refurbished room at Hollow Tree's Resort; medicine man Kapik Sibajak; the golden hour on Sipora Island; post-surf rest and refreshment; hearty, fresh eats at Hollow Tree's.

seafaring souls

A remote archipelago off western Sumatra is home to a surf break of mythical proportion, and shamans whose real lives seem the stuff of legend. Fraser Morton takes an absurdly long journey to the heart of the Mentawai Islands. Photogr aph e d by Eszter Papp

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Sitting on a white-sand, castaway-island beach, I’m daydreaming under the hypnotic spell of one of the best right-hand waves in the world—Hollow Tree’s, also known as Lance’s Right. Had I been here in 1991, I would be focused on the giant tree, insides carved out by the elements, shooting straight out of the sea, and the lone Aussie, a wave-chaser named Lance Knight, surfing the barreling beaut. While the tree has been lost to time and unrelenting swells, the names Lance’s Right and Hollow Tree’s have been forever since on the minds and lips of surfers from Bali to Brisbane, California to Cape Town. I watch wave after perfect, sapphire-glass wave roll into the end of the bay before unloading on the water table known as The Office and breaking into shards of crystal whitewater on a shallow reef dubbed The Surgeon’s Table—which is as dangerous as it sounds. And then, I’m on a board out there, as a colossal wave picks me up and propels me forward a mere half-meter above flesh-splitting coral. The whitewater sprinkles back into the sea and I ease out into the deeper bay, adrenaline flowing. I pump one hand in the air and use the other to wave my paddle aloft, shouting to the heavens, “I surfed Hollow Tree’s!” Laughter is the reply from the local kids in the break, and I know they think I’m an idiot. But I’m no surfer, so fannying about on a stand-up paddleboard in the froth of one of the best waves in the world is the closest I’ll ever come to fulfilling my Lance Knight dreams. There is a Poseidon-like character here, though, who also has a backstory bound to this break. Cast your mind back two decades. There’s a sailboat on the horizon. Behind the wheel is captain Daniel, his wife Janine and a little long-haired boy named Teiki, or Teiki-eetai, in the French Polynesian dialect he was named. It means, “The Little Prince Who Went to Sea.” They are a French sailing family, the Ballians. They are explorers, although they would never say that (“We just wanted a happy life,” Janine tells me when I meet her). Captivated by the first-rate wave and sheltered bay, they drop anchor and stay the night under the stars. Teiki was only 12 years old, but he had circumnavigated the world twice, spoke five languages, could captain the family’s 22-meter yacht Scame, and surfed like a pro. He had a rascally

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charm that anchored his youth with a chain of friends in ports from Burma to Thailand and along the sweeping western spine of Indonesia. Southeast Asia was the family’s surf-charter turf, and the Mentawais, and Hollow Tree’s break, Teiki’s favorite playground. Today, Teiki is 31, but he’s an old sea dog— and the new co-owner of Hollow Tree’s Resort, which reopened in March. With his deep connection to nature, he’s the perfect person to helm one of the only two resorts on south Sipora Island, a speck in the remote Mentawai Archipelago 150-kilometers off western Sumatra that took me an entire day to reach and is undefiled by mass tourism and poorly planned infrastructure. It is anyone’s idea of paradise. After drifting our way around Sipora, swimming over reefs teeming with life, and exploring bays by paddleboard and dense jungles on borrowed motorcycles, and after venturing deep into the heart of Siberut Island to meet machete-wielding shamans whose animism survives beyond the Indonesian government’s eye, I come away knowing more than ever before that when left unburdened nature is vibrant, vivid and unafraid. Last year, Teiki came to surf his beloved break and saw the resort boarded up, entangled in a barbed wire fence. So he called his friend Vincent, also a French surfer, in Bali, and together they morphed the place from a derelict cluster of beachfront huts into an 18-guest-maximum upscale surf resort humming with life and the scents of freshly baked guava pie drifting through the balmy air.

Local artists and surfing buddies Daniel and J.K. hang out near Hollow Tree's. Opposite: Teiki Ballian and Sina Kirmse, on the left bike, lead island explorations.

The sea is etched in their souls and taught them survival, self-reliance, love of nature and freedom

our trip is way too short. stupidly so. Everyone suffers the same plight. “Just one more week. Please”

Sina Kirmse scouts the waves. above: Beaches in south Sipora flanked by jungle. Opposite from top: Hitting the surf on a deserted break; the night sky glitters above Kapik Sibajak's uma, in Siberut Island.

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101 79

A surf-chic villa at Hollow Tree’s Resort. Opposite: Teiki Ballian, whose name means “The Little Prince Who Went to Sea.”

We are here for four days. The trip is way too short, stupidly so. Eszter, our photographer, wears a permanent goofy grin on her face the whole time. She’s nagging me to extend the visit. I learn that everyone who comes here suffers the same plight: “Just one more week. Please.” Teiki lives at the resort with his ThaiGerman girlfriend, Sina, who looks like she was shaken from a coconut tree reserved for beautiful tropical damsels. Janine is at the resort, too, all 69 years of her exuding coolmum vibes, and at dinnertime she entertains us with salty tales of a magnificent (“mog-niffee-cent”) life at sea. One evening we are all huddled round the banquet table, bellies full of garlic lobster coated with lemon mayonnaise, and finally that fresh sugar-coated guava pie, and I’m giggling because mum and son are having a heated but playful debate. He insists that over the course of their lifetime, the Ballians have sailed 14 nautical miles short of the distance between the Earth and the moon. “No, no, Teiki, dat is not true!” “Haha, so close, mama,” Teiki replies showing her the calculator on his phone. “Adrift in space!” My mind wanders as I look at the empty seat next to Janine. “He’s here, too, you know,” Teiki had told me earlier that day of his beloved dad, who had passed away only two weeks before, as we sat on the beach together. I thought he meant metaphorically and nodded silently until I realized he meant the ashes. “We’re going to spread them out at sea,” he said. “I just don’t know when.” My heart aches for him, and I imagine being on the Ballians’ yacht with the whole family, learning all I can about seafaring, navigation and adventure from wise father Daniel. Teiki, too, is an explorer and over the next few days, he and Sina lead us to secluded spots, dumbfounding us with tangerine sunsets over empty surf breaks. Sipora is a continual contrast to Bali, where a multi-million-dollara-year surf industry has boomed since the 1960s. Bali’s breaks became stepping-stones for waves in Nias and Lakey Peak in Sumbawa, G-Land off East Java and, eventually, here, the Mentawais, stirring more adventurous surfers who hear the call of lonely waves. It’s Sunday morning and I’m doing something unexpected: Dressed in a smart shirt and trousers sitting in a church at mass with Mentawai Catholics. We are in the village of Katiet, inland of the small peninsula that houses Hollow Tree’s, where life remains

uncomplicated. Many villagers earn money harvesting copra coconut meat, which is sold for oil. There’s a volleyball net on a dusty patch that gets a lot of attention at dusk. Along the dirt track between here and Hollow Tree’s I count five churches, three in disrepair in the wake of the 2010 tsunami. The majority of Katiet village is here at mass, and the men and women sit on opposite sides of the chapel. I’m in the last pew staring at the bald, bowed head of the elderly man in front of me, wondering how long he has believed in Jesus. Then I realize I know the answer: After Indonesia gained independence in 1945 and new laws were drafted to ensure all citizens embraced the new nation’s recognized religions—Islam, Christianity, Catholicism, Hinduism or Buddhism. Before this, people in these parts were mostly animist. A little girl starts to sing. Her voice echoes around the high walls and fills the ears of the congregation who close their eyes and drink in her words—entrancing even me, though I can’t understand her Mentawai dialect. As soon as her song ends, there’s a synchronized snap of lighters and every man is puffing away on clove cigarettes and chatting with his neighbor, turning the place into some kind of rowdy—but dry—bar scene. We spill out of the church with kids hanging from us, tugging at my hands, asking, “Where from?” and screaming, “Allo, allo!” merrily while inspecting my notebook, as a gaggle of girls demands Eszter take their photo. Their spiritual cups full, the residents of Katiet shelve the somber tone for another week. There’s no such distinction bet ween daily life and the divine on Siberut Island, the largest island in the Mentawais, where our beach bubble has been burst by the sharp end of the machete the half-naked tribesman is swinging next to me. He hacks down a sago palm tree, fishes out a massive worm, squeezes it dead and stuffs it into his mouth. His name is Kapik Sibajak, and he is a Sikerei medicine man of the indigenous Mentawai Tribe, and our host for the next few days. The Sikerei are a special class of male forest shamans and healers. They practice animism, wear hibiscus flowers, ink themselves with magic tattoos and sharpen their teeth. They have resisted evangelism, modernization and government attempts to get them to both resettle and abandon their non-sanctioned beliefs. They have endured and, thanks in part to a trickle of tourism, now are largely left alone to live how they please in the jungle. t r a v e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m / m a y 2 0 1 7

Paddling back to shore. Below: Fruit salad of a sunset in Sipora.

Earlier that day we had traveled for two hours upriver with our guide and translator Yen, a relative of the tribes people, from his home village Muara to our rendezvous with Kapik. He appeared from nowhere from behind a tree in dense jungle wearing only a loincloth, bow and arrow, machete clasped in hand. Kapik loves that machete. It never leaves his side. He’s 69 years old and a prankster. He danced around us as we arduously trudged through knee-deep mud, waded through rivers, tightrope-walked log bridges, and picked and fought our way through the jungle in a race against darkness. He would disappear only to emerge a moment later, bursting into song, shaking his hips and motioning seductively to Eszter. I liked him immediately. Kapik is incredibly hard working, despite his age. Daily chores include tending his pigs and chickens that live under his longhouse, known as an uma, hacking down sago trees, fishing, and foraging. He smokes constantly. They have few pleasures here in the jungle and are heavily addicted to nicotine and sugar—gifts that you must come bearing in order to be granted shelter. Our host family— Kapik and his wife, Kapik Sikalabai, along with their middle-aged son Petrus Sekaliou, his wife and their two children, who came from their own home to meet us—is mischievous, loud, flirtatious and hard, but also affectionately hospitable. Kapik is a keen kisser. Both Eszter and I received frequent kisses on the cheek from him. Over a dinner of plain rice and noodles, Yen intermediates our chat about life. I’m keen to learn everything I can, but also for them to know a little about us, too. Kapik’s four sons are all married and living nearby—but on the outskirts of the forest, where they eschew tattoos and now wear western clothes. I tell them I’m from Scotland and that we too have tribes, called clans, and tribal wear. He’s amused. I show them a photo of a Highlands cow I keep on my phone, and I think Kapik Sikalabai looks impressed. I ask Yen, “Have they ever seen a horse?” When they say no, I pull up a photo of horses I took in the caldera of Bromo Volcano. “Java horses,” I say. Kapik Sikalabai asks Yen where it is, he tells her Indonesia, and she looks surprised.

Later that night, Eszter and I duck outside the hut for some air and are sucked into a night sky alive with stars, which swallows the jungle, our small hut and both of us in a mesmerizing star-spangled indigo blanket. On the stoop of that shack far from home, amid the snorts and smells of pigs, we stare skyward in wonder until we both laugh out loud. I shouldn’t be surprised when that dreamlike serenity is shattered at 3:37 a.m. We are asleep on the wood floor of Kapik’s uma when the screaming starts. It’s the pigs. In the pale moonlight that slices through the open-air hut I see the naked figure of Kapik carrying his machete and striding into the darkness. A second later there’s a sickening clang of metal, a dull thud and what sounds like splintering bone. I really hope it’s not the pigs. I slip under the mosquito net, flick on my torch and head towards the light coming from the back of the hut. I hear laughter and another clang of a machete followed by a thud, more splinters and a nasty squelching sound. I see them now huddled around a flame torch, all six >>

after drifting around Sipora and venturing into the heart of siberut, I come away knowing that, left unburdened, nature is vibrant, vivid and unafraid 82

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of the family. Kapik swings his machete and brings it down fiercely onto a log, which splits in two. He pries the glistening pieces apart with the tip of his machete. The logs are writhing and moving on the surface: worms. Hundreds of them. Long, thin, squirming worms ooze from the logs and everyone snatches them up and stuffs them into their mouths. Fat, tree-eating worms, they think, make for a sweet-tasting midnight snack. Kapik spots me, turns machete inhand, laughs and shoves a worm in my direction. I hate it when this happens on travel assignments. It means I have to eat it. I can still feel the wriggling in my belly as I write this. The Ballians have seen more remote places than I can fathom. They share a lust for salty nomadism akin to the first Austronesian travelers who ventured to the Mentawais from Taiwan 4,000 years ago. The sea is etched into their souls and taught them many traits: survival, self-reliance, freedom and an infectious appreciation of the ocean and nature. On our final morning at Hollow Tree’s, I sit safely in a beach chair watching the silhouette of Teiki jumping off the crest of this perfect wave, which has traveled thousands of kilometers across the Indian Ocean to this secluded bay in an almighty display of beauty. In a few days, Teiki and Janine will cast Daniel’s ashes out to sea. I can’t think of a more poetic way for a son to immortalize his father’s memory than surfing with his spirit each day. “I remember one time we took the yacht to zees mog-nif-eee-cent deserted islands and one guest was reading a book ze whole time,” Janine tells me. “And Daniel shouted at him, ‘What are you doing? Don’t read! Look at where you are!’” And so I keep staring into that barreling beaut of a wave, until they have to drag me away to catch the boat home.

Kapik Sikalabai, on the river route to Maura town.

The details The author stayed at Hollow Tree’s Resort (htsresort.com; from US$200 per person per night, low-season, inclusive of three meals a day, three beers a day, surf guide and shuttle for the wave, and private transfers from Padang). Co-owner Teiki Ballian can help arrange boats and guides if you want to venture among islands. The Hollow Tree’s website has a list of helpful travel information, but here are some essentials: Getting there Transit through Padang on western Sumatra, which has flights from Kuala Lumpur and domestic Indonesian cities. From Singapore, take a ferry to Batam then a direct flight on Lion Air or Citylink to Padang. You’ll need to stay the night; Plan B hotel (planb-hotel.com; discounted rate through Hollow Tree’s Rp500,000 per night, season dependent) is a clean, inexpensive option. The 7 a.m. Mentawai Fast Ferry, which departs Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday, arrives at Tua Pejat Harbour, Sipora, where you will be met by a Hollow Trees speedboat for the 1½-hour coastal voyage to the resort.

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Tribal Visit Get ready for a journey. To visit the indigenous Mentawais people you will need multiple boats and cash. From Sipora Tua Pejat Harbour, meet your prearranged boat for the twohour sea voyage to Siberut Island’s Malipet Harbour. Your guide will take you two hours upriver in a motorized canoe, then it’s an hour trek through the jungle to your homestay. The two-night tribal homestay described here cost Rp3.5 million, including guide fees and the mandatory tobacco and sugar gifts. The private fast fishing boat from Sipora to Siberut costs another Rp3.5 million; Teiki can help arrange it. What to bring Anything you think you will need, as there are no shops on Sipora. Sipora: Besides the obvious beach clothes and surf gear, bring waterproof booties for coral, your own snorkel mask and lots of sun cream. Siberut: Trekking clothes, waterproof trousers and wellies (which you can buy at Muara), possibly a sleeping bag and definitely mosquito spray. Expect to be dirty for the entirety of your visit: there’s no running water, and the washroom is the river.

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Solid Gold

Just south of Brisbane lies Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surf-and-sun capital, the Gold Coast. After a long absence, finds newly minted and vintage treasures on the sultry strip of coastline.

Ian Lloyd Neubauer

86â&#x20AC;&#x201E;

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Heirloom tomatoes and burrata with basil leaves, at The Fish House. Opposite: Setting out for an early-morning surf at Burleigh Heads.

Clockwise from top left: The

Burleigh Headland; sweet ceviche at Fire Cue; an antique Mercedes at Burleigh Heads; Palazzo Versace Hotel on The Spit; cycling Surfers Paradise promenade; Gold Coast Meter Maids, these days Brazilian in origin, have long been a tourist draw.

t o p l e f t: c o u r t e s y o f g o l d c o a s t t o u r i s m

After too long an absence from this corner of Australia, I find myself driving along the edge of Broadwater, a dreamy blue estuary ringed by little beaches on the Gold Coast’s northern tip. Ahead of me are the glistening glass towers of Surfers Paradise, rising from the shoreline like modern phoenixes. The tallest is Q1, a 322-meterhigh monolith modeled on the Sydney 2000 Olympics torch. It was the world’s tallest residential tower when it opened in 2005 and is still the southern hemisphere’s tallest building. It’s also home to the Q1 Resort and Spa, where I’ve booked a 46th-floor spa apartment. The views are impressive but nothing compared to the 360-degree visual feast at the Sky Point Observation Deck on the 77th floor. From here, the Gold Coast skyline—edged by sand and sea, underscored by canals, with a backdrop of forested mountains—appears like a rendering from a science-fiction film about a futurist utopia where an advanced civilization exists in perfect harmony with nature.

Back on ground level, the vistas are less salubrious. Surfers Paradise has grown in size but not changed in character one iota from my last visit nearly three decades ago when, as teens, a friend and I would sneak away from our parents in Brisbane to what was Australia’s capital of sun, surf and sex. Today, I pass young mothers with fullbody tattoos pushing prams, obese teenagers slurping sodas and tourists with apparent selfie-compulsiondisorders. I see a man in a Victorian evening gown sitting on a bench, too many fake boobs and an endless number of ice cream shops. The Hard Rock Café now occupies the spot where Brisbane hotelier Jim Cavill opened Surfers Paradise Hotel in 1925 in a town that was called Elston but renamed during the Great Depression in a bid to attract tourists. I dare say it worked. At the beachside promenade, I see two long-legged women in high heels and gold bikinis posing for photos with tourists: Gold Coast Meter Maids. Introduced in 1965 by local shopkeepers weary of losing business when parking meters were introduced to the strip, meter maids became emblems of the freedom, promise, allure and raunchiness of the Gold Coast—a marketing tour de force that drew tourists by busloads. “I get e-mails from people all over the world saying my grandfather and father got photos with the meter maids, and now I’m coming over and I want to get a photo too,” says Roberta Ann Aitchison, a retired maid from the 1980s who now owns the Gold Coast Meter Maid trademark. The meter maids of today spend less time putting coins in parking meters and more time selling memorabilia, and they’re no longer local surfer girls but tourists from Brazil. “I like it here because it looks like Rio, the lifestyle is the same but it’s a lot safer than Rio,” says meter maid Sue. Adds her co-maid Michelle: “I like the weather. It’s always summer. We love the beach.” And what a beach it is: an uninterrupted golden arc that stretches all the way south to the horizon. I leave my shirt and shoes under a lifeguard tower and run into the sea, where foamy white waves and crystal blue water make everything new again. It seems crazy to say it now, but I never even set foot in the ocean during my many visits here as a teenager, instead spending the nights on strobe-lit dance floors and the days sleeping off inevitable hangovers. Today, you couldn’t pay me to enter the Goldie’s tacky clubs, but all this heavenly clean water and sand, all of it free. Later in the day, I follow the short but spectacular coastal drive from Surfers to The Spit. A large palmlined sand bar separating Broadwater and the Pacific Ocean, The Spit is home to Palazzo Versace hotel, the Gold Coast’s answer to Versailles; the Aussie Sea World; and a large marina lined with restaurants, bars and watersports operators like Gold Coast Jet Ski Safari. The owner, Adrian Bond, a former construction worker from Melbourne, who, like everyone else, moved

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Surfers Paradise Beach lives up to its name.

Parasails fly overhead as through mangroves and 90â&#x20AC;&#x201E;

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we speed around sandbanks, along mansion-lined canals

here for the weather, takes me on a Jet Ski ride that could be, perhaps not so coincidentally, a chase scene in a James Bond movie. We careen around multimillion-dollar yachts and game-fishing boats, zoom past slow-moving barbecue pontoons and sailboats. Helicopters and parasails fly overhead as we speed around sandbanks, through mangroves and along mansion-lined canals until we reach McLarens Landing, a sugar-white beach that if not for a cocktail bar and pontoon could be a set for the Survivor TV series. When Bond and I mosey up to the bar for a drink, I learn we’ve left the mainland and are on South Stradbroke Island, a speck of sand only 200 meters from the northern end of The Spit. Australia’s sixth largest city is just around the corner, yet we may as well be in a distant corner of the South Pacific for how perfectly tropical it all is.

A headland with a row of Norfolk pine trees protects one of the best swimming and surfing spots on the Goldie. I’m in Burleigh Heads, and looking back northward, I’m struck by the contrast of the tall buildings that make up the skyline just 20 kilometers away in Surfers Paradise, though the locals call it Gotham City. It’s Sunday and the parklands in front of the beach are crowded with families and groups of friends with their barbecues, beers and cricket matches on the grass. The surf is pumping hard so most swimmers are bunched up between the flags where volunteer lifeguards watch the crowd diligently. Watching them from a stilt house on the promenade is chief lifeguard Warren Young, a leather-skinned gent with a strong, friendly handshake who, like me, initially discovered the Gold Coast as a teenager on weekend sojourns from Brisbane.

“It was like someone turned the lights on,” Young says. “We lived in a housing commission in Brisbane in the late sixties, and to suddenly see girls in bikinis, the nightlife and all these people chasing freedom…. The Goldie was a dynamic kind of place back then. But what really got me were the beautiful beaches. I couldn’t believe how lucky I was when I was offered a job as a lifeguard in 1973 and I still don’t believe it today. It’s an awesome responsibility.” Like all Gold Coast lifeguards, Young, now 67, must complete a grueling biannual fitness assessment composed of a 750-meter swim, a 1,600-meter beach run and a 800-meter paddle—all in under 26 minutes. When we stroll down the beach to see a group of trainee lifeguards in actions, he tells me about his travels to Indonesia and the Maldives and how it gave him fresh perspective on life. “You learn about your home when you travel,” Young says. “I reckon the Goldie is pretty hard to beat. Where else in the world can you stay in a high-rise hotel, then walk one minute to the beach where you’ve got pristine sand dunes and transparent water?” Dinner is at The Fish House, a Gold Coast seafood institution set in a plantation manor across the road from the beach. Johnny Depp, Penelope Cruz and most of the movie stars who’ve worked on films at Village Roadshow Studios in the hinterlands end up coming here to try the signature Patagonian Toothfish: a silky smooth, melt-in-your-mouth masterpiece served with a choice of 260 handpicked wines. I find myself comparing this haute dining experience to the deep-fried crap and mystery-meat pies that fueled my introduction to girls and booze nearly three decades prior. Sometimes change is good. I decide to seek out more of it. The following evening I drive 10 minutes to

Clockwise from above: The Man-Tea at Bazaar Gold Coast; in search of shade at the QT Gold Coast's pool; natural spa baths set in waterfalls at Springbrook National Park; a Jet Ski safari in Broadwater; a retro motorcycle at Iron & Resin Garage.

t r a v e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o mâ&#x20AC;&#x2020; / â&#x20AC;&#x2020;m a y 2 0 1 7

From top: Looking

north along Surfers Paradise from the SkyPoint Observation Deck; muted class at The Fish House.

Nobbys Beach to check out a new South American grill recommended by my waiter at The Fish House. Fire Cue is the brainchild of Adam Dundas-Taylor, a Gold Coast local who spent the past 16 years cooking at Nobu in London and Barbacoa, a restaurant he co-owns in Bali, before returning home last year. “Last time I lived here in 2000 you pretty much had two options when it came to dining: hotel restaurants or a seafood platter down at your local life-saving club,” he says. “But now there are some very good restaurants opening up because of the influx of people moving here from down south and from Asia with skills and ideas.” Dundas-Taylor’s vision is classical Latin American recipes with Asian and Aussie twists. The kingfish ceviche takes its sweetness from pomegranates and a miso sauce. The Ram Cap, a little-known cut of meat from Brazil grilled over charcoal and wood with rock salt, is caramelized and divine. “Before, when my husband and I had a date night, we’d say, ‘do we have to go to pub or surf club?’” says Kobi Facto, head of marketing at QT Gold Coast, a fivestar take on a 1950’s beach-style Art Deco hotel that pays tongue-in-cheek homage to the Goldie’s sexualized past. The QT Gold Coast also satirizes modern Australian cuisine with dishes like the Man Tea—a slab of wood bearing a double mini cheeseburger, mini beef-andburgundy pie, truffle fries, prawn cocktail and a parmesan doughnut. “But now there are so many new groovy new restaurants and bars to chose from. We’ve finally caught up to Sydney and Melbourne,” she says as a waiter delivers dessert. A bourbon-infused semifreddo presented in the guise of a chocolate cigar garnished with candied bacon more than proves her point.

After a weekend in Burleigh, it’s time to see the Goldie’s southern flank. Past the aquatic playgrounds of Tallebudgera and Currumbin creeks, I’m heading further south. Part-canal suburb, partindustrial state, Currumbin Waters is home to a slew of hip new venues like Balter Brewery, a microbrewery co-owned by three-time world surfing champion Mick Fanning; and Iron and Resin Garage, a hybrid café, vintage motorcycle museum and boutique where every Sunday more than 100 motorbike riders meet for breakfast and to hear live blues before charging off on a group ride into the hinterlands. “I’ve done a lot of living and ridden motorbikes all over the world,” says proprietor Bruce Robson, a Sydneysider who last year moved to the Gold Coast because “it’s always nice and sunny.” But there’s more, and he’s anxious to tell me. “When I got up here, I discovered the hinterlands have some of the best roads in the world. And unlike big cities, you don’t have to go far to see them. The Currumbin Creek Road is so close you could walk there.” Five minutes after leaving Iron & Resin Garage I find myself driving along a country road that winds through the lush green pastures of Currumbin Valley. I pass farmers brushing their horses, flocks of colorful

cockatoos and parakeets, and a sign with a sketch of a koala that advises me to slow down. Then I reach the Currumbin Valley Rock Pool, a popular picnic spot with large flat boulders for sunbaking and jumping into an opal-green lagoon. “The rest of the Gold Coast is great if you want to party but this is where you come to get away from it all,” says Glen Sprudzans, who works in a little café-cum-art gallery adjacent to the rock pool. The road ebbs and flows under huge rock escarpments until it reaches its nadir at Springbrook National Park, part of the unesco World Heritage–listed Gondwana Reserve that protects the remaining remnants of the ancient rainforests that once covered all of Australia. From the car park, a short walk along a raging river takes me to another series of rock pools, waterslides and waterfalls. I gaze up in wonder at giant ferns and soaring hardwood trees, the sound of trickling water and bird calls ringing through the air, and ask myself how it is that I grew up less than two hours from here, spent more than a quarter of a century exploring the world, but never knew this place existed?

The details

m a p b y a u t c h a r a pa n p h a i

GETTING THERE AirAsia X (airasia.com), Scoot (flyscoot.com) and Jetstar (jetstar.com) fly to the Gold Coast from Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and Tokyo, respectively. A taxi from the Gold Coast airport in Coolangatta to Surfers Paradise is A$65. HOTELS O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat Get out of town to this eco-resort nestled in the hinterlands. Lamington; oreillys. com.au; doubles from A$149. Palazzo Versace Main Beach; palazzoversace.com.au; doubles from A$379. Q1 Resort and Spa Surfers Paradise; q1.com.au; onebedroom apartment from A$245. QT Gold Coast Surfers Paradise;

qthotelsandresorts.com; doubles from A$225. RESTAURANTS AND BARS Balter Brewery A microbrewing joint conceived by surfing champ Mick Fanning and other local surf legends. Currumbin; balter. com.au; beers from A$5. Bazaar Gold Coast Upscale Asian- and Mediteranneanaccented smorgasbord spot. Surfers Paradise; qthotelsand resorts.com; dinner is A$72, and A$29 for kids. Currumbin Valley Rock Pool Café A healthy bistro and local art gallery across the road from the pools. Currumbin; fb.com/ currumbinvalleyrockpoolcafe; dishes from A$8. Fire Cue A new Latin American charcoal restaurant with a

modern Australian twist. Nobbys Beach; firecue.com.au; mains A$20–$48. The Fish House An iconic seafood restaurant with ocean, beach and city views. Burleigh Heads; thefishhouse.com.au; mains A$36–$58. Iron and Resin Garage An antique motorbike gallery, men’s boutique and burger bar. Currumbin; ironandresin.com.au; burgers from A$12. ACTIVITIES Get On Your Bike Bicycle rental service with outposts around Gold Coast. getonyourbike.com. au; half-day rentals from A$25. Gold Coast City Gallery The Gold Coast's arts center. Surfers Paradise; theartscentregc.com. au; free.

Gold Coast Jet Ski Safaris Tours of Broadwater and South Stradbroke Island. Main Beach; jetskisafaris.com.au; A$190 per Jet Ski rental. SkyPoint Observation Deck On the 77th floor of the Q1 building. Surfers Paradise; skypoint.com. au; admission A$24. Springbrook National Park A taste of the unesco World Heritage site, Gondwana Rainforests. Springbrook; explorespringbrook.com; free. Surf in Paradise Personalized surfing lessons at The Spit. Surfers Paradise; surfinparadise. com.au; private surfing lessons from A$120. Surf World Museum A glimpse into Australia's surfing past. surfworldgoldcoast.com; entry is A$10 for adults and A$5 for kids.

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Pure

Philippines Bohol, despite its nature, culture and perfect beaches, lingers under the mass-tourism radar. S tephanie Zubiri hits the sands, braves the spirits and explains why itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just the place youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been looking for. Photographed by Francisco Guerrero

Alona Beach, Panglao.

Inside a villa at Tarsier Botanika. clockwise from left: Dive prep at Tarsier; paella at Amorita Resort; strolling Amun Ini in a Bhig Buda bikini.

The runway is lined with swaying coconut trees and lush green hills. It’s early morning as we touch down and a water buffalo strolls by. I’m definitely no longer in Manila. From the airport, the winding coastal road is sublime with the soft and hazy early morning light turning everything we pass into an Impressionist landscape. To my right are fishermen trolling for their first catch of the day, punting on ink-blue waters that are back-lit by a silhouette of coconut trees. To my left are quaint towns set against green hills, the verdant color deepening, becoming more vibrant as the sun rises. Children race across rice fields on their way to school, and every so often an old limestone church or neo-colonial town hall blurs past. “This is exactly how the Philippines should look,” I think. “Exactly like Bohol.” In the Central Visayas, it’s the tenth largest island in the Philippines, surrounded by about 75 smaller islands. But Bohol is often bypassed for the country’s flashier tourist spots such as Palawan or Boracay. Most international visitors to the Philippines come for the promises of powder beaches and friendly people, and as they sip on their cocktails in beautiful resorts they are, in many cases, segregated from any cultural heritage. This can make the Philippines seem a less exotic destination than neighboring countries. One major obstacle is that so many of the cultural and historical wonders here are difficult to access. Herein lies the beauty of Bohol, a 4,821-square-kilometer province home to some of the best the country has to offer. Pristine white-sand beaches, great dive sites, a lush picturesque countryside with strange topography, thriving communities, centuries-old

churches, sleepy tranquil rivers and even cute indigenous primates—it’s all here.

I first came to Bohol in

2005 with a rowdy pack of French friends from my student days in Paris. We rented small motorcycles and zipped through the dirt roads and coconut groves of Panglao Island, stopping randomly to visit a small old church or to play with the local children. We rode bamboo rafts down the Loboc River and islandhopped, enjoying freshly grilled seafood on the beach with our hands, cooling off our salty, sunburns with icy local beer. I also had my first scuba experience: each of us with our own dive master guiding us through the shallow coral reefs of Balicasag Island teeming with marine life. Parrotfish danced around as if part of an underwater Brazilian carnival, with brightly colored anemones swaying to the tidal beat. It was nothing short of spectacular. Today, Bohol still remains a fantastic dive destination, with less crowded sites up on the Anda Peninsula. On this early morning drive in that direction, I received a call from Fred Carmona, owner of the boutique resort Amun Ini and a family friend, insisting that we stop by for breakfast. “I can’t believe they’re sending you off on a tour with empty stomachs,” he protested. But in the middle of coffee he stopped his conversation short and pulled out his binoculars. “Dolphins. Look out there.” A pod of 20 or so dolphins was swimming around a small dive boat a few hundred meters off the private beach. “Get the zodiac ready, I’m going out there,” he announced. “You, French girl,” he called out to one of the hotel guests

who had been having breakfast. “Do you want to see dolphins?” Within seconds they were off. This is a testament to the healthy state of the nature in Bohol. Much of the island is still untouched by mass tourism, particularly up north, where Anda boasts of a long white beach with crystal waters. Quinale Beach is stunning, with only a few locals and children swimming in the distance. The Anda Tourist Information Center sits right on the shore with bay-view windows looking out the turquoise Bohol Sea. From there we took a short drive off to the mangrove forest that serves as a gateway to Lamanoc Island. A 300-meter bamboo stilted walkway led us through thick mangroves. As soon as we entered, the glowing green canopy surrounded us in calm. Our guide, Forteng Simbajon, stressed the importance of these mangroves in protecting from typhoons. “Many towns were saved from tidal waves because of them,” he said. “If you’re caught chopping down mangroves, you will be punished.” We boarded paddleboats and Forteng went off ahead on his own, like a spiritual guide leading the way. As we approached the island, we quieted down. The air was still, broken only by the soft whoosh of the oars cutting through the water and enchanting birdsong calling from the gnarled trees. It was as though we had crossed into the realm of the supernatural, reminiscent of the ancient Philippine Manunggul burial jars, where a boatman shuttles the dead to the afterlife. The small island has multiple caves, some of which have primitive art and ancient burial jars and coffins dating back to pre-colonial times. Each has its own individual

atmosphere—some sun-soaked bleached and jagged, others dark, damp and mysterious—all of which seemed otherworldly. The limestone combined with the natural formation of stalagmites and stalactites created grotesque creatures frozen in the rocks that would perhaps only come alive at night when no one was looking. Forteng had asked us to be respectful of the island, bidding us to take “not even one shell or one leaf.” He also warned the camera crew with us that some areas shouldn’t be filmed, and not to blame him in case they see any anomalies in the footage. I felt transported by the mystical folklore. The shaman’s cave is supposed to be of particular import here, and I felt a lighter, uplifting energy walking towards it through butterfly-filled vegetation. “This is where the babaylan believe that the diwatas and spirits reside,” Forteng explained, telling us of the local shamans’ annual rituals and offerings to appease the spirits. “I’m Catholic so I don’t make offerings, but I do respect the spirits and I know they are there,” he said. “I’ve often felt their presence.” Lamanoc Island and Forteng are living testaments to how ancient cultural practices are still very much alive. By the time we finished our tour it was mid-afternoon. Time for a cold beer, then a dip in the pool. But Fred threatened us: “I’ll call your father and tell him you did an eatand-run.” So we savored what turned out to be one of the best meals I’ve had in the Philippines in a long while—fluffy eggplant gnocchi and a fresh take on a local favorite of crispy deep-fried pork knuckles served with flatbreads, hummus, slaw and a tangy yogurt sauce— cooked by Fred’s daughter, Adrianne and her husband, Josh. By the time we left the Anda Peninsula it was dark. Night fell on the island like a heavy cloak, its weight pressing on my eyelids. The long drive back to Panglao Island was exhausting and I was starting to regret the Anda day trip, wishing I had carved out the time to stay overnight.

Catching rays at Amorita in a Dusk Resortwear cover-up, Bhig Buda swimsuit and Studio Bohemia necklace. clockwise from right:

Santo Nino Anda Church; Stand-up paddleboarding on the Loboc River; dawn over the Chocolate Hills; fresh grilled salmon, at Tarsier Botanika.

As soon as I arrived at Amorita, those regrets washed away with a cold glass of gooseberry-tinged sauvignon blanc. After checking into a minimalist-chic villa, with a pool overlooking a large garden and the sea, I indulged in a massage before turning in. As my body relaxed, my mind veered in and out of consciousness, dreaming of butterfly-filled enchanted islands, empty paradisaical beaches and dolphin-filled waters. Despite the fatigue, that long drive to Anda was worth it, giving me a glimpse of what life is truly like here. Bohol is a living island, with real people who live real lives and not some gussied-up make-believe touristy sideshow. Even on the more developed Panglao Island, amid all the resorts, Korean-run dive shops and Italian restaurants, there are still pockets of real people. I passed small pre–World War II homes with carved wood and capiz windows, roosters and chickens in the garden, a rice paddy and coconut groves, children cooling off with a pail and some water, splashing and laughing. Everyone smiled, and seemed to truly appreciate life—a sentiment coupled with a certain serenity and wisdom that stems from tragedy. In October 2013 an earthquake of a 7.2 magnitude struck Bohol. From roads to residences, the earthquake destroyed almost everything, including most of the beautiful, old heritage churches. Just as those living in makeshift tents and refugee camps were recovering from the damage, super-typhoon Haiyan hit. The province was devastated. “We were so sad when our church crumbled after the quake. We were really in tears,” said our tour guide, Bohol native Amy Fiel Jones, from Maribojoc, giving voice to the centrality of the place of worship in this very Catholic, very conservative region, where even the smallest town had its own old church. Today, Bohol is in full recovery, the local government building new infrastructure and restoring the churches. Among residents, there is a sense of pride in their history and

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A Two Chic Manila dress fits right in at Ananyana resort. clockwise from above: A perfect pair at Amorita; Amorita's service with a smile; in the Loay town port.

No one bothers with check-in, staff know guests’ names cultural heritage. As opposed to parts of the country where the prevailing sentiment is the newer the better, here the past is identity. Traveling through the countryside, you notice that even the new structures eschew garish modernity and are built in a throwback, more restrained neo-colonial style.

“I think Boholanos are

more reserved in general,” Emma Gomez, Ananyana’s proprietor, told me. “They’re more subdued, gentler and I feel like they are truly sincere in their warmth and kindness. That’s one of the reasons why I made Bohol my home.” Emma is originally from Manila and has moved around from Cebu to Barcelona and everywhere else in between. She bought Ananyana as a vacation home in 1998 without the intention of running a resort, but as friends kept coming to visit and bringing more visitors she slowly expanded to what is now a 13-room boutique hotel, where no one bothers with check-in and all the staff know all the guests’ names. “With more rooms, I wouldn’t be able to have that kind of personal service.” Emma, who like Fred and his family, lives here full-time and has seen the Bohol tourism scene grow over the past two decades. “I won’t lie, some of my friends and I kind of feel like it’s starting to become too much,” she said. “We came here to hide from the craziness of Cebu and Manila.” There is an undercurrent of fear of over-development as the local government is migrating the new airport to Panglao Island. This accessibility has always been one of Bohol’s assets. My previous trip to the island, I was seven months pregnant with a toddler in tow and had chosen Bohol precisely

for this reason. Here it’s a relatively straight shot from airport to bliss. Which, of course, is why it’s so important to protect Bohol’s fragile ecosystem. The famous Chocolate Hills are indeed still beautiful but apart from a postcard souvenir photo from the viewing deck, visitors can no longer walk or hike on the rolling mounds. Tarsiers are also being protected with The Philippine Tarsier and Wildlife Sanctuary in Corella offering an experience to see the tiny primates in their natural habitat. Sustainable development seems to be top of mind for the local government, which plans to develop Anda and other parts of the province to help decongest Panglao. I’m hopeful that the slow- and responsible-growth model will yield quality rather than quantity tourism options based both on the resorts I have visited and the food I have eaten. Bohol has some lovely dining that caters to a more discerning tourist. From Amun Ini’s creative take on local flavors to Amorita’s emphasis on fresh ingredients done well, from the simplest of grilled seafood by the sea of which Eskaya does a luxuriously wonderful job to the rich and roasted traditional dishes coming out of Astoria Bohol’s wood-fired brick oven, there’s some good grub in Bohol. One of my favorites is Tarsier Botanika, with a stunning cliff-side property and fine linens, perfect for a more dressed-up occasion. The wine list is fantastic with a good rosé selection, and a delicious chocolate mousse. The food at Emma’s place was no different: spicy gambas, a great paella and a flamed mango-andsquash soup. As we sat quietly on the lounge chairs, sipping our wine, the sun set, the last rays peeking out

from the horizon, turning everything a powdery shade of purple. The tide had gone and the shoreline seemed to go on for a glassy eternity. Two boatmen were getting geared up for the evening catch, their lamps shining like orange fireflies. There was that peaceful island slowness again. The breeze. The water. The company. The joy of just being. Emma broke the silence. “This is pretty much how I end my day, every day.” Sounds perfect to me.

The details GETTING THERE Bohol's Tagbilaran Airport is a 75-minute flight from Manila. Flights are available on local carriers Philippine Airlines and Cebu Pacific, and Air Asia. From Cebu, you can take a 90-minute speedboat shuttle to Bohol. Activities Tourism Office boholtourismph.com Baclayon Church The second oldest stone church in the Philippines. Baclayon; free entry to the church, entry fee to its museum, P50. Chocolate Hills It takes about 90 minutes to get from Panglao to Carmen, home of the hills' viewing deck. All the hotels can organize tours for you, but a private countryside visit taking in the hills, the Loboc River and Bilar manmade forest costs about P4,000 for two. Firefly and Fox Skip the crazy floating karaoke restaurant and opt for a more athletic and peaceful experience. Loboc River; suptoursphilippines.com; P800 for a one-hour stand-up paddleboard river tour. Lamanoc Island This untouched, mystical island is a great kayaking and cave-hopping day trip. Anda; 63-91/7324-5917; P300 per person for entry fee, guided tour and boat trip. The Philippine Tarsier and Wildlife Sanctuary Learn about the tiny primates native to Bohol on this 134-hectare forest where they roam in abundance. Corella; tarsierfoundation.org; P60 for a guided tour. Hotels Amun Ini Anda; amunini.com; doubles from US$275. Amorita Panglao; amoritaresort.com; doubles from P8,000. Ananyana Panglao; fb.com/ ananyanabeachresort; 63-38/502-8101; doubles from P9,460. Astoria Bohol Baclayon; astoriabohol.com; access exclusive to Club Astoria or AVLCI members; doubles from P12,000. Eskaya Beach Resort & Spa Panglao; eskayaresort.com; villas from US$395. Tarsier Botanika tarsierbotanika.com; garden villas from US$300.

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Close to the

Land

Cor nwall ha s always b een a p l ac e ap ar t fr om t he r est

o f Eng l an d — a p r ou d an d f er t il e p r ov inc e w her e t he p a stur e m ee t s

t he s ea. But now t h e ol d t r adit ion s ar e gi v ing way to s om e t hing new, a s t he ne x t gen er at ion o f c h e f s, far m er s an d fisher m en

t r an sf or m t h eir p a stor al c or ner into a culinar y Eden. B y J e f f C h u P h o t o g r a p h s b y S i m o n Wat s o n

The village of Port Isaac, in Cornwall, England. Opposite: Cattle grazing near the village of Boscastle.

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Olast ne day summer

the chefs Tom Adams and April Bloomfield splashed through a stream and then crossed a field behind Coombeshead Farm, their 18th-century Cornish farmhouse. Adams, of London’s celebrated Pitt Cue, and Bloomfield, a British native best known for her New York City restaurants the Spotted Pig and the Breslin, have turned the property, which is set on 26 hectares of gently rolling hills near the village of Lewannick, into a five-room inn and restaurant. They were expecting a dozen dinner guests that evening, and the afternoon’s mission was to forage ingredients—wild sorrel, blackberries—for the meal.

Traditional cottages line the Cornish town of Boscastle.

We stopped under an oak tree reputed to be well over 600 years old. “I wonder what this tree has seen since day one,” Adams said. Consider: it would have been 150 years old when Queen Elizabeth I ascended the throne, nearly 400 when the American colonies broke free from Great Britain. Adams shook his head. “How insignificant am I?” The land doubles as a buffet, if you know what to look for. I didn’t, so Adams narrated. We passed wild watercress, common hogweed (whose seeds taste of citrus—more orangey than lemony) and pineapple weed, which Adams plucked, rubbed between his fingers

and held to my nose. It offered an instant olfactory trip to the tropics. The sorrel we gathered would go with pig’s-head rillettes. Blackberries were destined for an arranged marriage with Cornish cream. “Such abundance,” Bloomfield said. Returning to the farmstead, we skirted a streamside forest. Suddenly, Adams and Bloomfield unleashed a litany of expletives more typically heard in the heat of professional kitchens than the cool of the Cornish shade: “Holy sh**. Oh my god.” The object of their awe was in a tree: a chicken-of-the-woods mushroom the size of a t r a v e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m / m a y 2 0 1 7

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human head. Within hours, it would be transformed into the best version of itself, bearing the wood-fired oven’s char, the fragrance of thyme and garlic, and the glow of golden butter. It was an expression of Cornwall itself—unexpected, unfussy and gorgeous. Bloomfield and Adams aren’t the only outsiders to realize the fertile promise of Cornwall. Some of Britain’s most inventive young chefs and entrepreneurs are settling here and finding inspiration in the region’s traditions. Together with farmers and fishermen who trace their roots back generations, they are sparking a profound confidence in the bounty of this land. What’s old is new again—and it tastes phenomenal.

efore meeting Bloomfield and Adams, my husband, Tristan and I spent three days hiking 49 kilometers of Cornwall’s South West Coast Path, from Boscastle to Padstow. The poet John Betjeman, who spent much of his life in Cornwall, described Boscastle as being set in “half a mile of winding, gloomy chasm where overwhelming cliffs of shale and slate are parted by tidal water a stone’s throw across.” In the sunshine, the fishing village sparkled. But when it rains, the terrain can be tragic; in 2004, a flash flood washed away much of the village. From Boscastle, the path traverses slope after seaside slope, some so steep that we ascended and descended by earthen staircase. Gulls squawked but kept their distance, much as the locals did. Everywhere we went, they were welcoming but reserved, embodying the ambivalence that the Cornish have about outsiders. Legend has it that when Saint Piran, now Cornwall’s patron saint, arrived, having floated on a millstone across the Irish Sea, his first converts weren’t people—they were a badger, a fox and a boar. It’s easy to see why outsiders still come to this fat finger of land, which points from Britain’s southwesternmost corner across the Atlantic. Though Cornwall is England’s poorest county, it may be its richest in heritage and beauty. Every hill on our hike brought new

vistas, every bend a different field—this one framed by an ancient stone wall, that one filled with golden rapeseed blossoms. Just as abundant: the stories, stretching back centuries. In Trethevy, we sat for a few silent minutes in a 14th-century chapel dedicated to Saint Piran that had languished as a farm outbuilding until its restoration in the 1940s. In Tintagel, we clambered amid the cliff-top remnants of what’s said to be King Arthur’s castle—a history buff’s dream, a health-andsafety officer’s horror. In several places, we marveled at gravity-defying seaside towers of slate, souvenirs of Cornwall’s quarrying days. Even our primary sustenance as we walked—savory hand pies, called pasties, that we had bought in each town—spoke of Cornwall’s past. Once, the miners took these thick pastries, filled with beef, potatoes and onions, down into the tin and copper mines as a practical, all-in-one meal. Their wives and mothers would carve the miners’ initials on a corner of the crust for identification purposes. The crimped, curved edge of thick dough served as a handle, so the rest of the pasty was spared contamination from the filth on the miners’ hands. Corner and crust also doubled as an insurance policy: once discarded, the remnants were said to be scavenged by knockers, elflike creatures believed to inhabit the mines. Amid danger—say, a gas leak—the knockers would know, by those initials, to rescue the miners who’d fed them. (For a lesson on Cornwall’s mining past and shots of its dramatic cliffs, watch the series Poldark.) A few kilometers past Trebarwith Strand, we passed a flock of sheep grazing in a cliff-top pasture. I confessed to my husband I was thinking about mutton stew and lamb chops. He chided me. “What are you thinking about?” I asked him. He smiled sheepishly (sorry, not sorry) and then replied: “Sweaters. And sheepskin-covered seating.” Though tourists throng Port Isaac, the setting for the TV show Doc Martin, and Padstow, a foodie destination, we encountered other hikers only occasionally. As we descended into one narrow valley, an elderly couple negotiated the opposite slope. Upon drawing

‘There’s a c h a r m in something u n r ef i n ed . We want to create a place that not only fills t h e s t o m ach but also lowers b l o o d pr e ss u r e and makes guests f eel at h o m e .

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We want Coombeshead to be w h o l e s o m e ’

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closer, I noticed a pattern: the man would bound down 10 or so steps. Then, he’d turn and wait expectantly for the woman. She had two walking sticks, one in each hand, and took care with each step, never rushing. When she approached him, she held both sticks in one hand. He reached out to her, she grasped his hand, and they walked together for a few steps before he sped his way down again. As we passed the couple, we greeted them. When we were safely out of earshot, I said to Tristan: “Is that going to be us someday?” “I hope so,” he replied. from left: Chefs

Tom Adams and April Bloomfield forage for ingredients at Coombeshead Farm; a branch of the popular Cornish Bakery, in Padstow.

e ended our hike in Padstow, which owes its culinary stardom to celebrity chef Rick Stein, who moved to Cornwall in the 1970s. One evening, we dined at his casual restaurant Stein’s Fish & Chips. The lemon sole in a crisp batter was heavenly—the fact that we had to pay one pound for tartar sauce, less so.

The establishment is one of eight Padstow businesses bearing the Stein name, including four restaurants, two gift shops, a fish market and a bakery. (He also runs a hotel and rents cottages and rooms above the restaurants.) Stein’s success has downsides, as does Cornwall’s emergence as a gastronomic destination. The Cornish never fail to point them out. “There’s a Cornish saying,” said Mark Hellyar, a native whose family raises lambs and grows barley on 161 hectares outside Padstow. “Give a Cornishman a pot of gold, and he’ll complain that he doesn’t like the pot.” The complaints? Crowds in Padstow, whose population swells from about 2,500 to 5,000 during peak season. Commercialization, too: Stein’s empire can feel corporate and overbranded. When I asked our server for the fishand-chip shop’s Wi-Fi password, she looked surprised and replied, “rickstein.” The upsides of success? Hundreds of jobs, as well as a magnetism that attracts tourists and

The entrance and library at Coombeshead Farm.

culinary talent. Nathan Outlaw, who originally came to cook in one of Stein’s restaurants, now has five of his own—two in Port Isaac, one in Rock and two outside of Cornwall—and they have four Michelin stars among them. He never expected inspiration from the place or its people. When I asked what rejuvenates him, he thought for a moment. “Callum, one of my fishermen, who does all the crabs and lobsters,” he said. “From the restaurant, I can watch him get his pots, day in and day out, rough weather—whatever. That’s an inspiration.” The more recent cohort of non-native entrepreneurs includes Tarquin Leadbetter, proprietor of the five-year-old Southwestern Distillery. Reared in neighboring Devon, he spent several years in London before settling here. “I wanted to quit my desk job, go surfing in the morning and make gin in the afternoon,” he said. Leadbetter now lives that dream on Constantine Bay Beach, a crescent of golden sand. Though Tarquin’s Gin and Tarquin’s Pastis have quickly accumulated prizes since their 2012 debut, nothing else happens fast at the distillery. Everything is made in small batches, mostly in a still named Tamara, after the river Tamar, which neatly divides Devon and Cornwall. Tamara is made of handhammered copper, a nod to Cornwall’s history; in the early 19th century, the county was by far the world’s leading producer of the metal. For his gin, Leadbetter grows violets in his garden. For his pastis, he forages for wild gorse flowers, which lend the liqueur an unexpected hint of coconut. Both are made with naturally sweet Cornish water. “We’re the first bit of land that the rain clouds hit after the Atlantic,” he explained. “It’s the freshest water to fall on England, having traveled for thousands of miles across the ocean.” Leadbetter admits his water talk may be overwrought, but it does speak to Cornish patience. “You know how the Spanish always say ‘mañana’—tomorrow? Here, it’s ‘dreckly,’ ” which can mean “soon” or “eventually, but I can’t tell you when.” Such patience can be misinterpreted. People elsewhere in Britain often condescend to the Cornish. “They think down here everyone walks around with a bit of straw in our mouths,” said Saul Astrinsky, a native Cornishman who owns the Wild Harbour Fish Co. with his wife, Abi. “They think we’re all thick and should learn from people up the line.” Astrinsky’s six-year-old company sells seafood to some of London’s top restaurants. All of his fish are caught by rod, handline or inshore trawls and pots, the most sustainable

methods, and he pays his small-boat suppliers premium prices. “There are lads who pick winkles off the rocks for us, and we’re now doing mussels, lobsters, crabs,” he told me. Astrinsky sees conservation of Cornwall’s natural balance as a key metric of success: “We’ve got to be careful not to ruin this.” His landlubbing counterpart might be master butcher Philip Warren, whose namesake butchery has been carving up cows from Bodmin Moor since the 1880s. This is Daphne du Maurier’s Cornwall. Though often stereotyped as bleak and moody, the moor is a vibrant ecosystem of granite and peat, hill and marsh. Over the millennia, moor and cattle have become symbiotic. The grasses growing in the moor’s acidic soil tend toward sourness, which is tempered by the slightly salty rainwater that storms in from the sea. The cattle that Warren’s suppliers raise are accustomed to the idiosyncrasies of the soil and the grasses. “The moor is a living, breathing organism. It’s our best conserver of water. The peat is like a sponge, and the best conserver of carbon dioxide,” Warren said. “The cattle are looking after the moor, and the moor is looking after the cattle. If you didn’t have the cattle, in five years, you couldn’t walk the moor anymore. It would be overgrown with bracken.” During the past decade, Warren and his farmers have found new life by marketing their meat to London chefs and Rick Stein. Business has roughly doubled in that time, and he now has a long waiting list of chefs. Warren lauds consumers’ shifting preference for grass-fed beef, which is typically richer in flavor. “We live in an imperfect world. And we’re really quite happy about it.” Really, the entrepreneurship that Astrinsky and Warren exemplify is just a new version of an old story: neighbor caring for neighbor. “All we want,” Warren said, “is for people to keep making a living.”

arming, Hellyar told me, “is hand-tomouth living” for most Cornish families. The dairy farms that once dotted the region are mostly gone, including his family’s. The costs were too high, revenues too low. Today, part of the Hellyar land—set amid coastal countryside designated by the government as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty—is a caravan park. Over eight weeks each summer, the Hellyars reap four times as much revenue from trailer fees as they do annually from barley and lamb. Hellyar, who also owns vineyards in France, fantasizes about planting some grape vines. He hasn’t figured out which varieties might work t r a v e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m / m a y 2 0 1 7

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from left:

Smoked-haddock brandade and sourdough toast at Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen, in Port Isaac; tomatoes growing on the vine at Marky Souter’s farm, which supplies the inn’s kitchen.

but jokingly speculates that the product, like Cornwall’s people, would be robust “and maybe a little salty.” One reason he’s been able to dream: European Union subsidies. Each year, the Hellyars get a lump-sum payment that helps cushion them from agriculture’s shifts, part of the US$1 billion-plus in EU funds that Cornwall has received over the past decade, mostly for farming and infrastructure. By holding the lease on at least four hectares, one can be classified as a farmer, eligible for yearly subsidies of at least US$40 per hectare. Thanks to last year’s Brexit vote, in which a strong majority of Cornish voters backed leaving the EU, “that’s all in doubt now,” Hellyar said. “I guess it’s a part of the old Cornish desire to be a bit independent and rebellious.” Farming’s decline has also meant opportunity for enterprising businesspeople like Adams and Bloomfield. Coombeshead Farm is the architectural manifestation of their

philosophy: welcoming, understated, unpretentious—from the restored slate floors to the cozy, handsome library. The five bedrooms are simple but comfortable, all fluffy duvets and plaid woolen throws, with the hospitable touches of crafty hosts. House manager Lottie Mew, Adams’s girlfriend, makes the soap with homegrown lavender. The point of it all, noted Bloomfield, is rest. “Everything today is so transient, so fast,” she said. “Let’s slow down a minute.” They haven’t sought to smooth all the rough edges. Nor do they hide the fact that this is a working farm with a working kitchen. Guests are welcome to watch as Adams and his team cook. One afternoon, he sent me to the garden to harvest chards and lettuces for that evening’s salads; the next morning, I went to the henhouse to collect eggs for breakfast. “There’s a charm in something unrefined,” he said. “We want to create a place that not only fills the stomach but also lowers blood pressure

and makes guests feel at home. We want this to be wholesome.” And local. The Coombeshead team produces its own vinegars, kombucha (flavored with foraged pineapple weed and honey from the farm) and a fantastic fermented-tomato jam, made with tomatoes from Marky Souter’s farm down the road. There’s no citrus, not even for the gin and tonics, because it doesn’t grow in England; the delicious alternative is a housemade black-currant-and-nettle cordial, with nettle leaves for garnish. There’s no olive oil, either. One concession: coffee, which obviously doesn’t grow here (the beans come from Origin, a local roastery). When Adams and Bloomfield bought the farm, rumors flew around the nearby village about the buyers’ identities. A local gossip reported that Adele was moving in; another rumor named Jamie Oliver. The curiosity was understandable. Even Adams and Bloomfield themselves still don’t know what Coombeshead might become, though they imagine more than the existing inn. Bloomfield grew up in innercity Birmingham and fell in love with food and agriculture during countryside sojourns in her teens. “We’d buy a bag of peas from a farm stand and just eat them raw,” she said. Her dream is to welcome guests beyond the expected demographic of well-to-do Londoners and foreign foodies. She’s already drafting mental plans for turning outbuildings into educational facilities for working-class youths, like she once was. It’s not surprising that Bloomfield wants others to experience the Cornish countryside. One morning, I rose with the sun, put on wellies and walked to a nearby field where a stand of trees stood majestically silhouetted against the morphing skies—the lingering nighttime blues giving way to pinks and oranges. The grass was wet with dew, the dawn full of possibility. As I neared the house, the hens clucked their greetings. Adams was alone in the kitchen making granola when I came in, and we chatted about inspiration. “Here we are at the faraway end of the country, and there are so many interesting people doing interesting things. A lot of them don’t even realize how good it is,” he said. He still commutes to London, spending two days a week at Pitt Cue and five at Coombeshead—a brutal schedule made possible only by the fresh creative air that reinvigorates him on each return to Cornwall. “It’s this mix of people coming in, learning, and doing something new, and people doing things their family has done for generations. And yet it all feels like it’s just the beginning.”

The details getting there Connections to Newquay, Cornwall’s main airport, can be made through Dublin or London Gatwick. Train service from London’s Paddington Station takes four to five hours. tour operator Encounter Walking Holidays This Cornish company designs custom itineraries through the bucolic southern English countryside and will handle all your trip logistics, from bookings to luggage transfers between B&Bs while you hike. encounter walkingholidays.com. accommodations The Avalon This gracious B&B’s best rooms feature sweeping views across the garden and down to the sea. For breakfast, there’s homemade yogurt, local bacon and kippers. Tintagel; theavalon.co.uk; doubles from £89. Coombeshead Farm Chefs April Bloomfield and Tom Adams have transformed this 18th-century farm into a charming bed-andbreakfast. The hyper-local menus, served at a communal dining-room table, include housemade pickles, kombucha and vinegars, as well as vegetables and fruit grown on premises. Lewannick; coombesheadfarm. co.uk; doubles from £120; prix fixe £50 per person. restaurants & bars Boscastle Bakery Try the traditional Cornish pasties at this village bakeshop: steak, pork and apple, or cheese and onion. fb.com/boscastlebakery. Golden Lion Inn This harborside pub has been pouring classic English bitter pints since the 1700s. On a sunny day, sit on the balcony and gaze at the water; if it’s cold, there’s no better spot than right next to the fireplace. Port Isaac; thegoldenlion portisaac.co.uk; mains £5–£14. The Mariners An airy, beachy pub where the menu is overseen by chef Nathan Outlaw and a handful of the almost 40 beers come from the local Sharp’s Brewery. Rock; themarinersrock. com; mains £13–£25.

Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen A casual, Michelin-starred restaurant offering Nathan Outlaw’s seasonal small plates, like cured salmon with pickled mushrooms and baked hake with portobellos and rosemary butter. Port Isaac; outlaws.co.uk; small plates £6–£13. Paul Ainsworth at Number 6 Modern Cornish cooking served in an 18th-century town house. Start with fried Porthilly oysters, pork, fennel and apple, and end with Ainsworth’s trifle made with blood orange, rhubarb and saffron. Padstow; paul-ainsworth. co.uk; mains £30–£40. Stein’s Fish & Chips A local staple where the chips are cooked in beef drippings and the fish—like delicate lemon sole—is fried in shatteringly crisp batter. Padstow; rickstein.com; mains £7–£11. Stein’s Patisserie Stop in celebrity chef Rick Stein’s bakeshop for a variety of treats. Order the haddock-and-clottedcream pasty, a rich, intriguing twist on a regional classic. Padstow; rickstein.com. activities South West Coast Path A breathtaking 1,020-kilometer hiking route that includes the entire Cornwall coast as well as parts of neighboring Devon, Somerset and Dorset. southwest coastpath.org.uk. St. Enodoc’s Church Poet and author John Betjeman is buried in the graveyard of this stone church, parts of which date back to the 12th century. Trebetherick; 44-1208/862-398. St. Piran’s Chapel This slateroofed chapel is dedicated to one of Cornwall’s three patron saints, who was thought to have miraculously floated from Ireland to Perran Beach in the fifth century. Trevethey. Tintagel Castle Occupying a headland that has had homes and fortifications since Roman times, Tintagel gained fame in the 12th century after the medieval historian Geoffrey of Monmouth linked it to the legend of King Arthur. Most of what remains today was built by Richard, Earl of Cornwall, in the 13th century. Tintagel; english-heritage.org.uk.

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wish you were here

Chalermkwan Tulyasita / Similan Islands / Thailand Below the surface of the ocean in the far reaches of Thailand’s west coast, you inhabit another world, one far from the popular beaches and islands so close by. Because the Similan Islands are a national marine park, the scene is well preserved. It is the home of sea turtles who glide effortlessly through the water often as curious to see humans as we are to witness them. Islands one, two and three—the southernmost trio—are set aside as breeding grounds for turtles and, as part of reef conservation projects, are closed to the outside world. Still, above water the Similans are a pristine getaway in a country that defines modern tourism. Here are shades of blue with no name; crystal clear waters mirror the tropical skies above. Wind- and sea-swept granite boulders poke out of the sea along the coral beaches, dense greenery sprouting up above them. This must be what the Asian tropics looked like a century or three ago.

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