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The Pizza Counter at Mercato, in the Huangpu district. Below: “Ispahan dishwash,” a dessert of rose and lychee foam on Chantilly cream, at Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet.
East CHina sEa
jing’an
Huangpu rivEr lujiaZui
FormEr FrEnCH ConCEssion
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0.8 km
Lay of the Land Former French Concession the planetree-lined streets and gracious villas of the wellpreserved neighborhood make it the city’s most coveted address.
From laid-back local haunts to temples of haute cuisine, here’s where to dine now. mErCato Jean-georges Vongerichten teamed up with shanghai-based design duo neri & hu at this rustic-chic, Bundside Italian restaurant done in reclaimed wood and leather. Wood-fired pizzas and fresh pastas top the menu, but there are plenty of stellar fish options, including salt-and-pepper sea bass and scallops with green chili, lime and pistachio. threeon thebund.com; RMB800.
ultraviolEt BY paul pairEt the city’s most buzzed-about new restaurant has only 10 tables—and a three-month waiting list. With the help of projectors, scent diffusers and a
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sophisticated sound system, chef paul pairet combines audio, olfactory and visual effects with innovative dishes bearing wacky names such as “foie gras can’t quit” and “truffle burnt soup bread.” It’s dinner theater for the 21st century. uvbypp.cc; RMB4,000.
Hai BY goga at his first restaurant, goga, a pared-down space overlooking the city, san Francisco native Brad turley gained a cult following for his spot-on pacific rim cuisine. his second act sticks to the same formula: boldly flavored options such as tuna-edamame potato salad and scallops with thai lobster curry.
t r av E l a n d l E i s u r E a s i a . C o m
86-21/3461-7893; RMB600.
lost HEavEn Moody lighting and carved-teak chairs set the stage at this local favorite in the former French Concession that whips up the city’s finest yunnanese cuisine. there are mouthwatering lemongrass-laced meats, vegetable pancakes and spicy curries. lostheaven.com. cn; RMB300.
jisHi When it comes to shanghainese food, this unpretentious restaurant is as authentic as it gets. (the waiters speak nary a word of english.)
Tangcu paigu (sweetand-sour spare ribs) and congbao yutou (braised fish head with scallions) are staples; if it’s hairy crab season (october– december), don’t miss the xiefen fenpi (crab with vermicelli sheets). 86-21/6282-9260; RMB550.
madison an alum of new york City’s gramercy tavern, young chef austin hu showcases standouts—such as duck breast with apple, chrysanthemum greens, and chorizo-flecked vinaigrette and candied pork belly with kimchi jus—in a loftlike restaurant in the Xuhui district. madison inshanghai; RMB600. dinner prices are for two.
The Bund thanks to a recent us$33 million restoration, this thoroughfare, shanghai’s answer to the ChampsÉlysées and Fifth avenue, has welcomed a slew of luxury stores, upscale restaurants and top hotels. Jing’an the lively downtown district, crammed with skyscrapers and mega shopping centers, is fast-paced and often crowded; for a break, head to the 13th-century Jing’an Buddhist temple. Lujiazui you’ll find some of the city’s best hotels in the financial district on the eastern banks of the huangpu river. getting Around taxis are easy to hail, but drivers seldom speak english, so make sure you have addresses written down in Chinese. alternatively, the metro (shmetro.com) is extensive and efficient.
F r o M t o p : C h r I s t o p h e r W I s e ; a n d r e W r o Wat
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