S p e c i a l ac c or e di t io n
Southeast asia
june 2019
The Maldives From Raffles to fairmont to Mercure
MGallery: the Stylish Brand in Vietnam a dozen tastes of australia
Rediscover Bangkok and Phuket with accor
LEGENDARY ICON MEETS MODERN LUXURY
The train that became a legend, the Orient Express remains a symbol of luxury travel and timeless refinement 135 years after its maiden journey. Its multicultural heritage is now transported to a collection of Orient Express hotels, inviting travellers on a captivating journey to elsewhere. This new journey begins in Bangkok.
World’s First Orient Express Hotel
br ands
Orient Express Mahanakorn Bangkok, Thailand.
Orient Express Luxury travel defined A “Journey to Elsewhere” and “A Refined Door to the Unexpected” for more than 135 years, Orient Express remains the symbol of luxury travel and timeless refinement. The multicultural heritage of this legendary trains is now transported to a collection of Orient Express hotels, taking travellers on a captivating journey to elsewhere. splendour on the rails Rare know-how and noble materials echo the original train’s splendour, creating a permanent experience marked by emotion and wanderlust. Transported by this special sense of style and the promise of radical change from the everyday, Orient Express beckons you to discover another way of travelling, living and seeing the world: a culture.
some of our finest: The first Orient Express Hotel, Orient Express Mahanakorn Bangkok, set to open in Thailand late 2019.
4
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
intro
Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia magazine, devoted to some of the best hotels in Asia Pacific. From the sparkling sands of Sydney to the aquamarine waters of the Maldives, from the colourful markets of Bangkok to the gilded pagodas of Myanmar, Accor has a hotel or resort for every mood. With more than 1,100 hotels and resorts across the region, we have put together this collection of hotels and destinations to inspire your next adventure, whether you seek cultural immersion, romance, family time or a gourmet getaway. In the Maldives, we introduce you to five gorgeous resorts, from the family-friendly Mercure Maldives Kooddoo to the ultra-luxe Raffles Maldives Meradhoo, which has only 38 villas for the ultimate seclusion. In Australia, you can soak in a luxurious tub at the Sofitel Sydney Darling Harbour, overlooking the twinkling lights of the city, or visit picturesque vineyards for the ultimate foodie escape at Mitchelton Winery, Hotel & Day Spa, MGallery; Mount Lofty House, MGallery; or Novotel Barossa Valley. Further north, the tropical delights of Queensland are yours to explore at Pullman Port Douglas Sea Temple Resort & Spa or Pullman Palm Cove Sea Temple Resort & Spa. Phu Quoc is one of the hottest resort destinations in Vietnam and we invite you into four resorts on this palm-fringed island of pearl farms, temples, waterfalls and lush jungle. High in the hills of Sapa, Bill Bensley has created a French Indochine fantasy at Hotel de la Coupole, blending high-fashion glamour with colourful hill tribe influences. Equally bold, the new SO/ Auckland was created in collaboration with renowned Kiwi fashion label World and brings a new sense of playfulness to the city. We also take you inside the Phoenix Hotel Yogyakarta, MGallery, a 1918 heritage hotel, which provides an elegant taste of a bygone era. Finally, we provide a sneak preview of Raffles Singapore, which is set to reopen its doors in August. This historic, iconic hotel has been welcoming travellers for over 130 years and has been undergoing a careful restoration, which will bring the hotel firmly into the next century while retaining its heritage charm. Its relaunch will restore the hotel to its rightful place at the epicenter of Singapore’s social scene. We look forward to welcoming you soon. elcome to this special edition of
Michael Issenberg, Chairman & CEO Accor Asia Pacific
tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
5
br ands
Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Cambodia
Raffles
Raffles Butler Service Raffles Butlers are the living embodiment of Raffles’ heritage of bespoke service. They take care of every detail so that our guests have space to be themselves and the freedom to discover local culture. Raffles Signature Bars The Long Bar is lively, colourful and joyful. It’s a destination where locals and tourists meet and socialise, where conversation flows, where people go to experience the soul of a city. The famous Singapore Sling was invented here in 1915. The Writers Bar is an oasis of calm and tranquillity in a Raffles Hotel for guests in residence. It’s where guests can relax and unwind. Raffles Patisserie A modern day treasure box of both familiar and exotic treats. It is a place sought out by people who appreciate tasteful ‘treasures’. The experience and sweet
6
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
pastries are like gems, discovered, enjoyed and cherished. Raffles Spa The lotus flower is the central inspiration for Raffles Spa’s philosophy. At Raffles Spa , a balance between strength and relaxation is the key to a feeling of inner tranquillity and rejuvenation. Raffles Gala event With each Raffles property being a centrepiece for social events and elegant celebrations, the hotels, host the biggest celebrations and most sophisticated events.
some of our finest: Raffles Singapore, Raffles Grand Hotel D'Angkor, Cambodia; Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Cambodia; Raffles Hainan, China; Raffles Manila Makati, Philippines; Raffles Jakarta, Indonesia
Raffles Singapore.
tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
7
6:16PM The moment Makati took your breath away Cherish a moment in Fairmont Makati, an urban sanctuary of understated elegance among Manila’s renowned shopping and lifestyle centers. As our guest, you’ll be treated to spacious rooms and suites with floor-to-ceiling windows for unparalleled views of the glimmering skyline, accompanied by an atmosphere of sophisticated excellence and serenity. Gateway to your perfect Makati moment. fairmont.com
4,800 Hotels
110
Destinations
br ands
10
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
Sofitel Sydney Darling Harbour, Australia.
Sofitel
unique aromas, textures, flavours and secrets.
Chic design Every Sofitel address is a contemporary work of art by masterly architects and interior designers like Didier Gomez, Jean Nouvel, Pierre-Yves Rochon, Andrée Putman, Richard Francis-Jones and many more, elegantly blending French and local aesthetics. Arts & Culture Embracing French art de vivre, Sofitel hotels celebrate their continental roots while honouring and showcasing the finest local customs and traditions. Sofitel hotels blend local and international artistic expression to create cultural journeys designed to both delight and inform. Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort, Indonesia.
Authentic & Lively F&B Sofitel chefs create fusion dining enriched and enhanced by each destination’s
Indulgent Wellness Sofitel hotels afford a wealth of opportunities for relaxation, rejuvenation, health and well-being. The Sofitel MyBed™ ushers in luxurious relaxation and comfort. Sofitel Spa proposes a collection of pampering beauty treatments and soothing therapies and Sofitel Fitness offers a range of personalized exercise programs and a range of cutting-edge gym equipment.
some of our finest: Sofitel Singapore City Centre, Singapore; Sofitel Singapore Sentosa Resort & Spa, Singapore; Sofitel Sydney Darling Harbour, Australia; Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort, Indonesia; Sofitel Guangzhou Sunrich, China.
tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
11
SoямБtel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort, Indonesia
BOOK EARLY SAVE UP TO 30%* AT WWW.ACCORHOTELS.COM *Terms & Conditions Apply
June
contents
features
52
Paradise Awaits There are two sides to every seashell in the Maldives: uncovering something for every type of traveller.
64
Two Sides of Thailand Bangkok and Phuket are opposites, but do share an ongoing ability to evolve and constantly surprise.
74 74 94 81 52
The Kiwi Connection Two addresses offer stylish stays, with a distinct touch of their locale combined with Kiwi hospitality.
81
On the Menu Down Under You’ll only get a true taste of Australia when drinking and dining.
88 to p r i g h t : Ba r c r o f t M e d i a / C o n t r i b u to r / g e t t y i m ag es
The Next Beach Thing These days Phu Quoc really is entering the mainstream—at its own pace.
94
Magical Myanmar Discovering the land of the golden pagoda is a step back to another era in Asia.
ON THE COVER
High above the azure waters surrounding the Fairmont Maldives Sirru Fen Fushi.
tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
13
contents
Accor Brands From ultraluxury to affordable comfort, Accor has the perfect brand portfolio to help guide you to the perfect accommodation choice.
24 Around the World on a Plate
If you’re looking to fully appreciate Indonesia, then search no further than a handful of Accor hotels that offer some of the finest local dishes you will ever taste.
16 Up on the Roof Bangkok has
more than its fair share of enticing rooftop bars, you just have to know where to look, writes Joe Cummings, who lives to tell a tale high above the city streets.
28 Design Your Memories Look
16
14
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
forward to timeless elegance, a stylish spirit and charming vestiges of Vietnam’s history when you stay at Accor’s MGallery Hotel Collection.
28
34 Amazing Plates Gathering
some of the world’s top chefs in Bangkok, and advancing gastronomie ideals, Sofitel’s SO Amazing Chefs is a chance to try a multitude of Michelinstarred cooking all in one setting.
42 Your Rewards Accor’s
extensive loyalty program, MyResorts, offers something for everyone at each of its locations around Asia. And you’ll be pleasantly surprised at exactly what that means for your next vacation.
34
42
UNCORK
a sparkling
EVENING
With over 30 handpicked cuvées, discover your new favourite at Sydney’s home of Champagne. See you for Champagne Hour! Sunday to Thursday 5pm - 7pm CHAMPAGNEBARSYDNEY.COM SOFITEL SYDNEY DARLING HARBOUR, 12 DARLING DRIVE, SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA
rooftop bars
Up On The Roof
Bangkok has more than its fair share of enticing rooftop bars, you just have to know where to look, writes Joe Cummings, who lives to tell a tale high above the city streets.
A night out at RedSquare Rooftop Bar.
16
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
Great cit yscapes deserve great rooftop bars, and Bangkok is richly endowed with both. With an abundance of glittering skyscrapers— nearly a hundred taller than 150 meters— brightly lit roadways, a network of narrow canals, and the wide, curving Chao Phraya River, the tropical city offers unparalleled views to those who can find a comfortable perch. Cocktail hedonism combined with elevated views seems like a simple formula, but with typical French élan, Accor has honed rooftop hosting to a fine art, as I found out recently on a two-night tour of six of their finest local skyborne venues. Night one begins at Belga Rooftop Bar & Brasserie, ensconced on the 32nd floor of Art Deco-inspired Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit. Leaving traffic-choked Sukhumvit far below, I arrive just in time to catch the last rays of the sun bouncing off the surrounding cityscape. A subtle breeze wafts across the curving outdoor terrace as I sit down to a flight of draft Belgian brews, drawn from the nine different Belgian beers on tap (plus another 30 by the bottle) at Belga. My favorite tonight is Maredsous Blonde, a golden beer with a clean bouquet that’s very refreshing at the end of a long, hot Bangkok day. This being the only Belgian restaurant in the city, I feel duty bound to sample moules frites, Belgium’s iconic bucket of steamed mussels accompanied by pommes frites. We choose the house signature moules, steamed with Hoegaarden, an unfiltered beer whose flavors of coriander and citrus peel mate perfectly with fresh mussels. As for the fries, they live up to Belgian legend, especially when dipped into mayonnaise mixed fresh at the table by the brasserie’s Maître Mayonnaise. Two beers later, and I’m digging into a crisp buckwheat waffle topped with house-cured salmon, garden salad and lemon-dill dressing, a brilliant re-interpretation of the Belgian waffle tradition. The food and beer at Belga are so good that you might not even notice the stupendous views, and instead find yourself wandering inside to admire the open kitchen and copper beer taps. Moving from Brussels to Moscow, my next stop is RedSquare Rooftop Bar at the brandnew Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 4. Perched on the 25th floor, the outdoor terrace is flanked by a sleek swimming pool to one side and a bustling semi-indoor bar on the other. Cozy nooks with red-upholstered barrel chairs look out onto city views on both sides of the
Belga terrace. Above: Moules Mariniere, Belga.
tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
17
rooftop bars
The Parch, rum with lime, mint and hazelnut. Above: The View Rooftop Bar at night.
18
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
building. I sit at a table that looks towards All Seasons Place and an assortment of other distinguished edifices along Withayu Road’s embassy row. As the name might suggest, RedSquare is dedicated to vodka. Mixologists here work with more than 35 unique vodka labels from all over the world, including Burnett’s, Crystal Head, Stilltheone, Skyy, Ciroc, Finlandia, Belvedere, Artic, and Chase, to name a few. I continue my rooftop cocktail evening with a Mojito Skyy, the house signature concoction of US-made Skyy Vodka and delicate homemade syrups of mint, cucumber, and strawberry, beautifully presented with a strip of thinly sliced cucumber placed against the inside curve of the glass. Another drink that catches my eye is the intriguingly named Angel Kenya, containing vodka, homemade black tea, guava juice, and yaa waan (Stevia or candyleaf). I reckon next time I decide to rise above the City of Angels, I’ll be ordering one of these. Bar bites at RedSquare present a cosmopolitan mix of textures and flavours, including Fresh Burrata, Wild Mushroom Soup, Cold Cut Selection (Parma ham, coppata, serrano ham, salami), and my odds-on favourite, Spiced Prawn Burgers, all served on gleaming white plates that contrast well with the red fabrics. By this point I’m beginning to lose count of how many drinks I’ve had, but I’m feeling the love and ready for the final stop of the evening. Right in the heart of bustling Pratunam, tucked check-and-jowl behind world-famous Platinum Fashion Mall, Novotel Bangkok Platinum might seem like an unlikely location for a rooftop bar. In fact, I’d wager that most people thronging the streets below, walking to and from CentralWorld and other malls in one of Asia’s most concentrated shopping districts, have no idea that that nine floors above them sits View Rooftop Bar. It feels like a flash-yet-comfy pool bar you might stumble on at a South Beach hotel in Miami, replete with beanbag chairs, an infinity pool, and brick walls painted with vibrant street art. Curated audio by DJ/producer Bradley Hart enhances the effect. Meanwhile, the stunning scene across Rajprasong’s glitter and pomp is softened by a bird’s eye look at intensely green Pathumwananuruk Park just below the hotel. Here I start with Purple Haze, a striking presentation served under bell glass to capture the fragrant smoke of thian op, Thailand’s >>
Rooftop bars
The entrance to Sky on 20. below: Winter is coming at Sky on 20.
traditional culinary candle. The blend of frankincense and other spices lend an exotic perfume to the signature blend of butterfly pea flower-infused vodka, vermouth, lime, lemongrass elderflower, and lavender. Our table shares a delicious Burger Slider Trio made with pulled pork, fried chicken, and beef, along with Tempura Battered Purple Potato Fries dusted with View’s signature chili salt. This is a rooftop bar that goes all out to wow its guests with originality and flair, I decide as I dip into my second drink, The Parch, a magical concoction of Captain Morgan Dark Rum, lime, mint, and hazelnut, which is topped with a sweet and savory slab of caramelized pineapple. After a day’s recovery, I launch into night two at Sky on 20, slotted neatly into the 26th floor of Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20. The extensive drinking menu boasts fizzy cocktails that use prosecco as a base, such as Red Hot Lover (gin, strawberry, vanilla, and prosecco), but I go for the spirit-forward section dubbed GTFO, and bounce into an Apple Q, an aromatic, full-bodied concoction of Botanist gin, lime, apple, homemade BBQ syrup, and fresh rosemary. Sky on 20’s leafy garden-like terrace offers an impressive angle on aerial Bangkok that takes in both Sirikit Lake and Benjasiri Park. While drinking and gawking, I enjoy light, satisfying plates of Gouda Cube Cheese with Mustard and Pepper and Fried Zucchinis with Hummus Dip. A barfly’s work is never done, so before I can say “I’ll have another,” we’ve flitted across town to the 29th floor of SO/ Bangkok. Here Hi So Rooftop Bar provides an unparalleled view of Lumpini Park, Bangkok’s oldest public green space. Comfortably wedged into a semi-openair triangle just outside the hotel’s esteemed Park Society restaurant, this bar features separate guest cabanas, a dedicated DJ booth (in full swing every night of the week), and a mezzanine one floor above for those who want to go that bit higher. From there, a hidden entry leads to Super Hi-So on the 31st floor, a secret sky platform for private events and intimate dates. >>
Sky on 20’s leafy garden-like terrace offers an impressive angle on aerial Bangkok that takes in both Sirikit Lake and Benjasiri Park. I’m drinking and gawking 20
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
MEMORABLE VERANDA HIGH RESORT A HAVEN OF PEACE IN THE HEART OF THE MOUNTAINS
Far from stress, close to nature: Veranda High Resort Chiang Mai offers modern chic in a timeless retreat overlooking mountain streams, rice and tea terraces. Be inspired by our tailor-made service, and just enjoy being you.
mgallery.com accorhotels.com
VERANDA HIGH RESORT CHIANG MAI, MGALLERY 192 MOO 2 BANGPONG, HANGDONG • CHIANG MAI 50230 • THAILAND TEL.: +66-53-365-007, +66-62-398-6899, +66-98-913-7699 M G A L L E R Y, A C O L L E C T I O N O F M E M O R A B L E H OT E L S : E U R O P E - A F R I C A - M I D D L E E A S T - C A R I B B E A N - A S I A PA C I F I C
rooftop bars
Bacon old fashioned, at Speakeasy. above: Studio Session, Hi So Rooftop bar.
22
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
A recent Hi-So relaunch brings in a reworked drinks menu created by mixologist Kishan Rampersad. I leap on the Banana Whiskey Sour, containing a healthy dose of bourbon, along with banana liqueur, fresh lime, bitters, and a dash of sugar syrup. We order a few bites from the Park Society menu, which covers a broad international selection of tapas and Asian small plates like gyoza, satay, and Thai-style garlic prawns, along with more hearty comfort food such as BBQ ribs, and fish and chips. After hopping a taxi, we’re soon winding our way skyward to Speakeasy, which encompasses two floors at the top of Hotel Muse Bangkok Langsuan, MGallery. Matching the early 20th-century concept and décor of the hotel, Speakeasy evokes Prohibition-era chic, with lots of wood paneling, antique art, and servers dressed in period-inspired clothing. The lower of the two floors boasts an old-fashioned belly-up bar and a long, roofed terrace for admiring the views across Soi Lang Suan. Stairs lead a floor up to the rooftop bar proper, which is spacious and affords views from virtually all four sides of the hotel. Three large private domes designed in classic Beaux Arts style are available for private parties by reservation. In a nicely dimmed corner of the terrace, we sample the bespoke creations of Thai barman Lersak Jamkadsin. With more than 30 brands on hand, gin is the house specialty, and customers are encouraged to create their own G&T by selecting their particular label of choice along with one of several boutique tonics (including Fentimans, Fever Tree, and Thomas Henry) and finally a botanical garnish such as coriander, cloves, cinnamon, lemon peel, or rosemary. Anyone who appreciates lighter cocktails should have a look at the Inspired by Her section of the drinks menu, which lists such delicately balanced recipes as Jasmine (vodka, pineapple juice, passionfruit, lime juice, Midori, and jasmine syrup) and Butterfly (gin, strawberry jam, lime juice, rosemary, cucumber, tonic, and soda). I go in the opposite direction to find my favorite cocktail of the rooftop journey, a Bacon Old-Fashioned in which bourbon saddles up with dehydrated orange, vermouth, and bitters, and is garnished with a crispy, bourbon-infused strip of bacon. I can just about manage a cigar downstairs at the Blind Pig Cigar Lounge before heading home for a much-deserved rest.
o n t h e p l at e
World of Fairmont Afternoon Tea.
Durian Pancake at Mercure Jakarta Pantai Indah Kapuk.
Nasi Tutug Oncom, Grand Mercure Bandung Setiabudi.
Around the World on a Plate If you’re looking to fully appreciate Indonesia, then search no further than a handful of Accor hotels that offer some of the finest local dishes you will ever taste.
the place to see and be seen is the Peacock Lounge at the Fairmont Jakarta. Popular with the social-media set, the lounge’s Signature Afternoon Tea set brings the taste of treats from various Fairmont hotels around the world to one setting, whether it’s cheesecake from The Plaza New York or a Lychee Mousse Tart from the Fairmont Peace Hotel Shanghai. Also in the Indonesian capital, the Mercure Jakarta Pantai Indah Kapuk is renowned for its NSNTR Restaurant & Bar. The name derives from the acronym for archipelago, but the real mouthful is a carefully selected menu that includes the spices, herbs and exotic fruits of this vast island nation. Count Durian Pancake and Durian Crème Brulee among the signature dishes here.
When in Jak arta,
24
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
At the Grand Mercure Bandung Setiabudi, only the freshest farm-to-table ingredients are used, with the all-day dining Hardy’s offering Nasi Tutug Oncom—a mix of soybean paste with steamed rice—served alongside dishes such as fried tempeh and tofu, fried chicken and spicy sambal. For those with a sweet tooth, don’t miss the grilled cassava with brown sugar dipped in shredded coconut. Originally built in 1918 are a private estate, the Phoenix Hotel Yogyakarta comes with many traditions that have grown over the years, though today it is part of the luxury MGallery Collection. As such, its history-laden hallways are adorned with some of the finest artworks found in the country. That said, do not miss out on the Chef’s Table, which celebrates Javanese dishes in a private room. Gudeg, a dish made from jackfruit, is served with condiments such as egg, chicken and tofu. Bakpia 1918—a mix of green beans, cashew nuts wheat, butter, sugar and salt—has become a signature dish of Yogyakarta, a memorable taste of the city that underlines the friendliness of the Javanese.
br ands
Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, Thailand.
26
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
Novotel Brisbane South Bank, Australia.
Novotel
Quality time is about making everyday moments matter. Everything about Novotel has been thought through to enhance wellbeing, life-balance and enjoyment. From intuitive and modern design, to rewarding programs and experiences—everyone can take time to relax and rejuvenate, or make time to connect with family and friends.
area, and free breakfast for kids under sixteen. Inbalance at novotel Three offers of wellness with InBalance Fitness, InBalance Wellness (pool, sauna, steam room) and InBalance Spa Wellness and Treatment Center.
lively lobby with a gourmet bar An informal, friendly space where you can enjoy trendy drinks and savour simple, delicious balanced meals. family & novotel A signature offer from each Novotel for each family at every step of their stay, including kids welcome gifts, play
some of our finest: Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, Thailand; Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 4, Thailand; Novotel Brisbane South Bank, Australia
tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
27
design
Design Your Memories
At Hôtel de la Coupole, MGallery mixing classical comfort and Indochine charm.
Look forward to timeless elegance, a stylish spirit and charming vestiges of Vietnam’s history when you stay at Accor’s MGallery Hotel Collection. By Gr ace Ma tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
29
design
to the allure of historic Hanoi, Hotel de l’Opera Hanoi, MGallery echoes the majesty of the nearby century-old Hanoi Opera House with its striking colours, lush jewel-toned fabrics and elegant French décor. Feel like a celebrity in this boutique beauty that exudes colonial splendor and contemporary grandeur as you spend restful nights in cozy luxurious rooms decked in wooden flooring and vibrant Asian textiles and silks, and equipped with pampering amenities. Actually, you’ll feel like you’re in a different era, one with all the mod cons. After a day of exploring the city’s serene lakes and historic streets, wind down with hearty meals of classic Vietnamese specialties at Satine Restaurant or Mediterranean-style à la carte and buffet dining at Café Lautrec, then continue dinner conversations at Parisian-style lounge La Fée Verte, which has a detailed drinks list of aged spirits, creative cocktails and imported wines. There’s also an indoor swimming pool with an open-air terrace, a day spa, gym and sauna.
R aising the curtains
30
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
MGallery, where modern comfort goes hand in
Each and every MGallery aims to evoke a sentiment, to tell a story as captivating and as unique to its location as the Hanoi tale. Whether it’s bespoke design or wellbeing dedicated to women, MGallery guests are enriched simply by staying at one of the 90 boutique properties around the world. Beyond Hanoi, MGallery (mgallery.com) has left its mark around Vietnam. It’s the little details that dazzle in Hotel Royal Hoi An, MGallery. Inspired by the love story between a Japanese merchant and a Vietnamese princess, the hotel’s majestic architecture plays out the marriage between Indochine-inspired design and delicate Japanese touches. Historical charm flows through the modern well-appointed rooms, several of which have balconies with city or river views. Hotel Royal Hoi An’s location besides the serene Thu Bon River offers the perfect base to explore places of interest such as the city’s unesco World Heritagedesignated Old Quarter, the 18th-century Japanese Covered Bridge and Tan Ky House. Relaxing at the hotel is pretty cool too: swim in the Art Nouveau outdoor pool; be pampered at The Woosah Spa; enjoy a cocktail with spectacular views from the city’s highest rooftop bar The Deck Hoi An, where a DJ isn’ out of the norm; or tuck into delicious fare at The Attic, open kitchen Faifo Café, or at Hoi An’s first high-end Japanese dining venue, Wakaku Restaurant. Discerning business travellers and leisureseekers will revel in the glamorous romance of multi-award winning Hôtel des Arts Saigon,
from top: The Art Nouveau outdoor pool beckons at Hotel Royal Hoi An, MGallery; solitude at Le Spa, La Veranda Resort Phu Quoc, MGallery.
opposite from top: Hôtel des Arts
Saigon, MGallery; Hotel de l’Opera Hanoi, MGallery.
hand with classical French Indochine charm. Rooms are imbued with a timeless chic, where wooden flooring and bespoke furniture by Vietnamese artisans play off muted fabrics and marble bathroom to create a warm and inviting ambience. Memorable art-filled dining experiences abound here too. The elegant Café Des Beaux-arts is a fashionable hangout for coffee or cocktails surrounded by stunning artworks. Modern Vietnamese and European cuisine is served at Saigon Kitchen, an all-day, open kitchen restaurant inspired by Asian street food, while the Social Club offers stunning skyline views and exquisite European dishes prepared with the freshest seasonal ingredients. In line with the MGallery “Inspired by Her” philosophy, find everything from female-inspired artwork to small touches that make female guests more welcome. But don’t think for a minute that this is all heritage or a step back into the past. The hotel’s showcase is its sexy, rooftop saltwater infinity pool that screams see and be seen. Other chill-out options include a wellness spa and a fitness center. Comfort and indulgence reign at 1920s French colonial-style La Veranda Resort Phu Quoc, MGallery, a stylish tribute to its founder Madame Catherine’s poignant family connection to the idyllic island. The seaside mansion’s well-appointed rooms exude classic and elegant Vietnamese grace with intricate details of dark mahogany wood and hand-
tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
31
design
painted mosaic tiles complementing pampering four-poster beds and spacious private verandas. Meals come with healthy backyard organic ingredients, whether it’s gourmet French and Vietnamese fine dining at The Peppertree or Mediterranean and Western favourites and themed buffets at all-day al fresco diner Le Jardin, while garden-inspired cocktails and a glass of estate wine are best savoured with the brilliant sunset views from Le Bar. Island discovery tours await intrepid adventurers who can choose to delve into Phu Quoc’s rich history and culture, go squid fishing on a traditional fishing boat or explore the Cua Can River in a kayak. Wellness-seekers can enjoy yoga by the sea or soothing artisanal organic oils and body treatments at Le Spa. Is a resort simply that if it’s also a pilgrimage site or in fact an entire village? The question will burn in the back of your mind once you find yourself on a spiritual journey back in time at Legacy Yen Tu, MGallery, a luxury wellness sanctuary perched 1,068 meters above the sea on Yen Tu Mountain. This is the setting where Vietnam’s 13th-century King Tran Nhan Tong established Truc Lam Yen Zen Buddhism. The Bill Bensley-designed resort is near the
32
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
From top: At the
Hôtel de la Coupole, MGallery; venturing back in time at Legacy Yen Tu, MGallery, a luxe wellness retreat.
unesco World Heritage site of Ha Long Bay, and features handcrafted materials and architecture built with traditional construction methods, blending heritage and spirituality with modern comfort. In fact, using the same styles as in the 13th century, this MGallery is designed to age: return in five years and it will have taken on an older, durable sheen. Rooms come with an outdoor patio living area and signature features such as wooden inked slabs traditionally used for calligraphy. Vegetarian dishes takes the spotlight in rustic Tho Quang where authentic Vietnamese cuisine is available, while Thien Tra Lobby Bar is the best place to enjoy sundowners with picturesque mountain views. Nature, wellness and spiritual-themed excursions can also be enjoyed in the nearby Hanh Huong Yen Tu village and the hotel’s Tue Tinh Am Wellness center with meditation, yoga and Truc Lam Zen sessions. Hôtel de la Coupole, MGallery is another Bill Bensley masterpiece that creatively blends local culture, a rich French history and Sapa’s modern ambiance into one magnificent landmark—think of it as haute couture meeting hill-tribe style. Each room looks out to splendid views of the Sapa valley and rice fields, while the interiors are stamped with Bensley’s signature luxury style unfolding in rich textures, plush colourful fabrics, gilded flourishes and bathrooms with checkered-tile flooring. This may be the 21st-century but these comfortable touches of the past are what bring modern Vietnam to life.
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
chefs
Amazing Plates
Gathering some of the world’s top chefs in Bangkok, and advancing gastronomie ideals, Sofitel’s SO Amazing Chefs is a chance to try a multitude of Michelin-starred cooking all in one setting. By Eloise Basuki Pl aying with chocol ate is like playing with fire— both should not be left unsupervised. Luckily, my cocoa playtime is under the guidance of one of the world’s best: Stéphane Bonnat, a fourth-generation French chocolatier from Bonnat—the oldest chocolate manufacturer in the world. As part of Sofitel’s 2018 SO Amazing Chefs event, Bonnat is here at SO/ Bangkok’s Chocolab to give our small group a crash course on all things to do with cocoa. Armed with raw cacao beans, bags of his single-origin dark chocolate and the lab’s kitchen tools, Bonnat imparts on us his dessert wisdom: the best ratio for a velvety smooth ganache, how to decorate bonbons like a pro, and that DIY chocolate ice cream isn’t as hard as you’d think. These sugar-loaded two hours are just a taste of what is to come at this year’s SO Amazing Chefs event, where Michelin-starred
34
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
culinary maestros start fires of their own across Bangkok with a 10-day feasting your stomach may only just survive. each Sofitel adheres to “Gastronomie Francaise,” celebrating cooking traditions and practices by bringing them to life through gourmet experiences developed in quaint villages, storied vineyards and famed boulangeries. This ideal is centred on four keys to a French menu: bread; pastries; wine; and cheese and charcuterie. Pure-butter croissants by famed baker Bridor; the input of celebrated baguette maker Frederic Lalos; and at least one organic bread or pastry option all underscore Sofitel’s commitment to quality. Each hotel offers its own signature bread, while pastries often incorporate local flavours.
Beyond the thai capital,
It shouldn’t come as a surprise that Sofitel prides itself on its wine menu—both by the glass and the bottle—with celebrated French labels sharing the spotlight alongside bottles from the region and the rest of the world. Complementing these pours is the cheese buffet or trolley that visits every corner of France, while never overlooking more local offerings. Always keep an eye out for wine-and-cheese-themed events at Sofitel as well, whether it’s Beajoulais Nouveau Day or a cheesepairing class. Another key element of the French culinary tradition at Sofitel is the signature Apero Chic: small offerings of terrines, galantines and premium charcuterie, an inspired charcuterie board. A prime example of this approach is at the Metropole Hanoi’s revamped angelina cocktail bar. The elegant bar seats up to 120 guests, while a separate whisky lounge tucked behind a charcoal curtain features velvet wingbacked chairs and a roaring fireplace, almost a setting out of a different era. The second level offers an intimate dining space with a seasonal menu that includes lobster rolls with caviar, Welsh lamb pie and Wagyu beef burgers topped with black truffles. Established but continually ground-breaking is Spiral at the Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila. Known for
innovation, the restaurant is famed for its 21 ateliers— literally, special workshops where diners witness menus come alive before their eyes. Think Asian noodles, Peking duck, Korean, Filipino and a French patisserie and you start to grasp the idea. Each atelier reflects the authenticity and warmth both of an Asian hawker stall or a French market. The setting alone is as breathtaking as the menus, starting with the grandeur of a spiral staircase and three-storey high, floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Manila Bay. This year marks the eighth edition of So Amazing Chefs, taking place September 15–22 in Bangkok. With eight Michelin chefs and eight varied activities, the event promises to please every palate. Star chefs from Japan, France, Spain Holland, Germany and the U.S. will be in the kitchens. Add into this mix, masters when it comes to cheese, oysters, boulangerie and dim sum, not to mention an Iron Chef FROM TOP left: winner from Thailand, and every Hard at work at tastebud is catered for. Over the the Chocolab; the course of two days is the SO Amazing cheese selection Chef Competition Culinary at Spiral’s Showdown, pitting teams of star chefs L’Epicerie.
tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
35
chefs
against each other in a fun event where the public can admire their cooking skills up close and personal. But where this annual gastronomic get together really shines is in its SO Amazing Chefs Dinners, seven evenings of wine-matched, multi-course banquets cooked up by a star-studded line-up of chefs. Before the eight courses begin, we start with drinks at the Sofitel’s Hi-SO rooftop bar, looking out at the blushing sunset with a matching rose and lychee martini. Moving inside to Park Society, the restaurant’s vast views of the twinkling Bangkok skyline make a fitting arena for the culinary carnival to come. Our first plate, simply called “Just Carrot” sets the standard. Two-Michelin-starred, Hua Hin-based, Scottish chef James Noble has transformed the humble veg into a variety of textures from a mousse to a bread to an Indian-style deep-fried carrot bhaji. Over the next seven courses, we’re served meals of art: smoked veal by two-starred French chef Thierry Drapeau comes surrounded by a cubist plating of potato gnocchi, spinach puree and truffle shavings; while Bastien Falkenroth’s king salmon swims in tangy ponzu and juicy pearls of coconut tapioca. We finish off with a cheese-plate by the Marchand brothers, along with Spanish chef María José San Román’s hojiblanca olive-oil ice cream. With each dish one-upping the next, it’s almost too hard to call FROM TOP: Wagyu favorites, but my vote goes with dessert. at angelina; SO The olive-oil ice cream is lush and rich Amazing Chefs food in disguise . despite being cream-free, and >>
36
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
San Roman gets extra points for swinging by each table to feed us spoons of her spicy, herbaceous liquid gold. Of course, SO Amazing has put on a finale to really prove the best cooks of the bunch: the Culinary Showdown. During this live, open-kitchen cooking event, four teams of chefs battle it out in front of the diners. Last year’s winners, the all-French Blue team— Drapeau, Guy Lassausai, Alexandre Demard, Joffrey Jacob and Benjamin Ben Sadou—won with their adapted dishes mirroring Thai street food: mussels in tempura with liquid nitrogen topped with shrimp and served with guacamole cream and a som tam gel. Back in the SO Sofitel Chocolab, I’m considering it a win that my chocolate ice cream actually resembles ice cream at all. Despite this being my first-ever time making the icy treat, Bonnat’s teaching has turned out a soft and creamy scoop, with delicate bite from his 65-percent dark chocolate. We pour some of our hot, silky ganache over the frozen dessert. It’s way too indulgent, but then again, that is what this festival is all about. sofitel.com; Mixing things eight-course SO Amazing Chefs Dinner up at the 2019 Bt10,000, or Bt12,500 with wine angelina whisky pairing. lounge.
Japanese menus at the pullman bangkok king power
Tenshino Restaurant A chic and innovative take on Japanese cuisine, Tenshino serves the freshest dishes with ingredients from Japan and France. Starters include highlights such as Wagyu beef tartar, served with caviar and crispy leek nests, and Hokkaido scallops with roasted cauliflower. Flown in daily from Japan is the freshest sushi and sashimi, while the oyster menu is direct from France. Hokkaido sea urchin,
soba with truffles (above) and Maine lobster are highlights in the main menu. Designed as a French restaurant, one with the Japanese tradition for natural materials in mind, Tenshino is divided into five main sections, each with a different aesthetic. A five-metre communal table greets guests as they enter, while a bar area features curved booths and bistro-style marble tables. www. tenshinobangkok.com
Tenko Omakase In Japanese folklore, Tenko is defined as “heavenly fox,” which in turn represents chef Goji Kobayashi, whose years of culinary experience have helped turn this into the premier omakase restaurant in Bangkok. With more than 10 years of experience, chef Goji is considered an ichinin mae, which means independent chef. The authentic and original taste of Japan comes to the fore here in a cultural dining experience
in a serene setting (above) that take your taste buds on an unforgettable journey. At the heart of this dining experience is the quality produce, which reflects Japan's changing seasons. Ingredients are flown in from Japan daily. Among these are Takeshima A4 Wagyu beef, scallops from Hokkaido and Kyushu's red sea urchins, all served on artisanal Japanese ceramics. www. pullmanbangkokkingpower.com
Prepare for a new experience across Asia Pacific Discover how much you can do and save with an Accor Plus membership. accorplus.com
Sofitel Singapore Sentosa Resort and Spa
br ands
Banyan Tree Phuket, Thailand.
Banyan Tree
Banyan Tree Lijiang, China.
40
Banyan Tree Spa As the first luxury oriental spa in Asia, Banyan Tree Spa introduces an exotic blend of ancient health and beauty practices which have been passed down from generations. High-quality services are delivered consistently by graduate therapists trained in Banyan Tree Spa Academies in Thailand and Indonesia, making it the market leader of Asia’s spa industry. Romance This signature touch applies across all Banyan Tree properties, making each destination ideal for romantic getaways, honeymoons, renewal of vows or destination weddings. From personalised Intimate Moments, breath-taking Destination Dining spots, private In-Villa Dining, romance is weaved seamlessly with a touch of rejuvenation, allowing couples to fully immerse in quality time with one another.
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
Saffron - Restaurant The signature restaurant of Banyan Tree, Saffron stays true to the classic and ingenious culinary techniques passed on for generations across the Thai Kingdom. Stay For Good Banyan Tree group’s sustainability platform that encourages guests and associates to partake in activities that empower local communities (35,000 meals provided to community members since 2014) and embrace environmental conservation (450,000 trees planted since 2007).
some of our finest: Banyan Tree Phuket, Thailand; Banyan Tree Samui, Thailand; Banyan Tree Shanghai On The Bund, China; Banyan Tree Macau, China
br ands
Fairmont Jaipur, India.
Fairmont At the heart of the destination Each Fairmont hotel, whether historic or new, is intrinsically linked to the heart of the destination, playing a central role in the community as host of the most notable events. fairmont gold Fairmont Gold represents our next level of hospitality: it includes a dedicated space in many of our hotels, featuring elevated guest room design and a fully staffed Fairmont Gold residents-only lounge.
Meetings & Events Fairmont’s brand name – according to J.D. Power – is the most highly regarded amongst luxury meeting and event planners. Fairmont hotels can accommodate midscale and large events at various price points, without compromising on luxury. partnership with reebok Fairmont has linked up with Reebok for fitness apparel and jogging shoes.
some of our finest: Fairmont Shanghai Peace Hotel, China; Fairmont Maldives Sirru Fen Fushi, Maldives; Fairmont Jaipur, India; Fairmont Singapore
Fairmont Shanghai Peace Hotel, China.
tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
41
l oya lt y
Your Rewards
Accor’s extensive loyalty program, MyResorts, offers something for everyone at each of its locations around Asia. And you’ll be pleasantly surprised at exactly what that means for your next vacation.
after traveling all day, you’re perched at Toya Beach Bar and Grill at the Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort to catch the sunset. Better still is that there’s a three-hour window from 3pm to 6pm that includes free cocktails, Heineken or Bintang beer if you’re enrolled in MyResorts, the exclusive Le Club AccorHotels benefits program designed to provide members extra value that says “thank you for choosing Accor.” You’ve just discovered that the perks start before guests even arrive at the hotel or resort, with all the available extras outlined prior to check-in. Elite members enjoy personalized check in at the Lobby Lounge. For starters, all membership tiers can enjoy MyGlass, a personalized beverage experience that guests can enjoy for their entire stay or even for one day only. Each resort has the flexibility to customize its drink according to the locale and the guest profile. MyGlass goes >>
Day one of your vacation and,
From Top: Drinks in the pool at the Sofitel
Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort; enjoying some down time in-room at the resort.
42
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
Fairmont Maldives Sirru Fen Fushi
Stunning resorts across Asia Pacific
INCREDIBLE BENEFITS JUST FOR MEMBERS Discover more at accorhotels.com/myresorts
l oya lt y
well beyond simply enjoying a drink. Think along the lines of a two-hour wine tasting session or take part in a cocktail-making class. When you’re headed off on vacation, it’s a given that you want to be spoiled. At the Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort, there’s even a PIC (Person In Charge) who you can contact during your stay until you check out. It’s just a small thank you for your loyalty. For Platinum members, the resort offers a gift of chocolates on arrival and some local coffee to take home once you depart. Of course, Accor’s loyalty program is available at each of its properties and rewards new members as well as top tier, returning guests. Better still, there’s an endless number of perks for everyone from you to your kids. At Fairmont Maldives Sirru Fen Fushi between midday and 5pm, when you're poolside, enjoy your favourite Margarita— classic, strawberry, passion fruit or mango— for US$6. If you're a Platinum member, up to two Margaritas are free each day as part of MyGlass. Local and foreign beers are on the
menu at the Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort as are free-flow cocktails during a three-hour stretch each afternoon. At the other end of the age spectrum, MyKids is a vacationing parent’s dream. For a flat fee that varies among resorts, daily activities such as arts programs and meals are taken care of. Your well-travelled kids can even enjoy personalized check in that includes a registration card and key, and their own welcome drink. An arrival gift and daily treat are standard, the plan adaptable to every stay. In Vietnam, that means homemade sweet, spicy and savoury rice crackers are part of the always-fun menu, while grilled banana chocolate cheese and chicken satay are on the menu at Indonesian resorts. MyKids is also an opportunity to teach the idea of learning from the local community and enjoying nature, with tree planting at the Novotel Bali Benoa and batik painting at the Pullman Phuket Arcadia Naithan Beach just two options. Adults will never feel left out. MyTreat is the ticket to high tea, or a platter of international and local desserts sent to your room. >>
From left: Getting pampered at the
Fairmont Yangcheng Lake in China; the Clearwater Bay Lounge, Raffles Hainan.
44
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
br ands
SO/ Hua Hin, Thailand.
SO/
experiences that capture the vivacity and vibe of the locale, the trendiest of local scenes.
Fashion Signature A unique collection of design hotels, each SO/ is an artistic vision brought to life by a celebrated name from stylish, vibrant and expressive world of fashion, including works of Monsieur Christian Lacroix, Kenzo Takada and Karl Lagerfeld.
Avant-garde Design Every SO/ address is a creative and contemporary masterpiece, embellished with vivid design elements, textures, colours and influences of the destination, giving each hotel a one-of-a-kind personality and style.
Playful Entertainment From tantalizing cocktails at the HI-SO rooftop bar to pulsating DJ beats and talk-of-the-town parties, SO/ energizes guests with surprising and entertaining happenings and social
some of our finest: SO/ Singapore; SO/ Bangkok, Thailand; SO/ Hua Hin, Thailand; SO/ Auckland, New Zealand
SO/ Auckland, New Zealand.
tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
45
l oya lt y
From left: Grand Water Villa Sunset,
Fairmont Maldives Sirru Fen Fushi; a family meal at the Fairmont Yangcheng Lake.
MyWellness permits access to fitness, spa and yoga sessions. Exercise programs, gym gear and even healthy dining and drinking options all help to revitalize, rejuvenate and reenergize your vacation. At the Fairmont Maldives Sirru Fen Fushi, relax with a 15-minute complimentary scalp massage and a 45-minute personalised training session at the wellness centre. Going beyond the norm, MyDiscovery lists sky diving, bungy jumping and watersports among its many activities, but there’s also more sedate sightseeing tours and chances to immerse yourself in the local culture through conservation projects. Guided tours by marine biologists are available daily, and nighttime snorkelling is a thing. Monkey Island, home to 2,000 macaques, is one tour that also includes a transoceanic ropeway with breathtaking views over a local fishing village. On the very practical side of any stay, MyConnect is available to Silver, Gold and
46
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
Platinum members and includes complimentary Internet for any number of devices, while MyExtratime allows guests to extend their resort experience beyond check-in and check-out, as early as 8am and as late as 5pm. If a room is not ready, silver, gold and platinum members can use the executive lounge until it is. MyUpgrade is available for gold and platinum members. MyHost is a complimentary service for gold and platinum members, aimed at perfecting their stay. This door-to-door service includes anything from arranging homemade cocktails on arrival to escorting guests to their suite and coordinating all their luggage handling. Any special requests or needs are taken care of, spa reservations, dinner plans. Platinum members can take advantage of MyGuest, which allows them to extend benefits to his or her loved one. MyRewards aims to surprise and delight platinum members during their stay, via a gift, an experience and even a little bit more special attention.
br ands
Hôtel de la Coupole, MGallery, Vietnam.
Hotel Muse Bangkok Langsuan, MGallery, Thailand.
MGallery Storytelling Charming and delightful hotels with their own thoughtful stories, each hotel stages with talent a unique personality and story, experienced by guests through its architecture, interior design and service offers. Inspired by Her Offer Inspired by Her program seeks to meet the specific requirements of the female leisure and business travellers through a suite of services and amenities such as adjusted bathrobes, feminine touch in the F&B etc. Memorable Moment Every MGallery hotel creates a truly singular, charming and often extravagant experience of the destination that leaves guests with unforgettable memories.
some of our finest: Hotel Muse Bangkok Langsuan, MGallery, Thailand; Hotel Des Arts Saigon, MGallery, Vietnam; Hotel Lindrum Melbourne, MGallery, Australia
tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
47
Feel Welcome Welcome Feel Kor e ah Korea i n South t u o S n i DISCOVER KOREA’S DYNAMIC CITYSCAPE & RICH CULTURAL HERITAGE WITH ACCOR AMBASSADOR HOTELS
SEOUL | 15 Hotels INCHEON | 1 Hotel
24 HOTELS
FROM LUXURY TO ECONOMY IN 7 DYNAMIC CITIES
SUWON | 2 Hotels
DAEGU | 1 Hotel ULSAN | 1 Hotel CHANGWON | 1 Hotel
BUSAN | 3 Hotels
My Stories, My Korea
Create picture-perfect memories with Accor Ambassador hotels
Spoiled fo r choice w ith four ho variety of tels and a bars and restaurant s. ~ S eo ul D ra go n Ci ty ~
tory stroll through his An enchanting k" houses. no "ha of s red among hund k Vil lag e ~ ~ Bu kch on Ha no The royal gu ard changing ceremony. Spectacular! ~ Gw an gh wa m un
Ga te ~
p with the roofto Relaxing on s. gd on g ~ ew eo ul M ye on amazing vi ba ss ad or S s Am ~ ib is S ty le
A traditional Korean experience. Authentic and exceptional. ~ Gyeongwonjae Ambassador Incheon ~
A refresh ~ N ov ot el
eautiful days in b ay idyllic Lazing aw Busan. e B ea ch ~ ~ H ae un da
ing dip in
A m ba ss
a pool w
ith a vie
ad or S eo ul D on gd ae
w.
m un ~
er in
Romantic evenings glow with wond downtown Seoul. ~ Cheon ggyec heon Strea m ~
Explore a world of fascinating stories at 24 Accor Ambassador hotels in seven destinations across South Korea.
june 2019
Pullman Phuket Panwa Beach Resort in Thailand, page 64.
there’s something for e very t y pe o f t r av e l l e r — c o u p l e s , fa m i l i e s , adventure seekers—in the
maldives p. 52
When in need of some local fl air c o m b i n e d w i t h u n m at c h e d h o s p i ta l i t y, l o o k n o f u r t h e r t h a n
B a n g ko k a n d p h u k e t c o u l d n ’ t b e more different but both are still g r e at s t o p s f o r y o u r n e x t t r i p t o
new zealand
Thailand
p. 74
p. 64
t h e b e s t way t o g e t a t r u e ta s t e of an y country is through its f o o d a n d d r i n k , pa r t i c u l a r ly i n
australia
after Years on the cutting edge, the time has never been b e t t e r t o v i s i t fa r - f l u n g
p. 81
phu quoc p. 88
Ta k e a s t e p b a c k i n t i m e t o another age of asia, but al so enjoy a glimpse of the future in
myanmar p. 94
tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
51
A string of Water villas at the Fairmont Maldives Sirru Fen Fushi.
52 
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
Paradise Awaits
Between snorkeling trips and innumerable happy hours, Ashley Niedringhaus discovers there are two sides to every seashell in the Maldives and uncovers something for every type of traveler, from romantics to families to the budget-conscious in this ultra-luxurious country.
High above Raffles Maldives Meradhoo.
Long a destination thought of only for once-in-a-lifetime journeys and skyhigh price tags, the Maldives has turned a corner. home to some 1,200 atolls strewn across the Indian Ocean, most with jaw-dropping overwater villas that hover above luminous blue waters, this water wonderland is accessible to everyone. luxury at its finest abounds, as do romantic getaways, purely aspirational atolls and world-class diving. Yet, the maldives now offers getaways for families who are searching out value that includes every age group. What hasn't changed, and why everyone visits, is a to-the-horizon seascape with colorful reefs and plentiful schools of marine life. at the end of each day, modern comforts await at your tropical atoll, which doubles as your own private island escape.
54 
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
Creature comforts at Raffles Maldives Meradhoo.
Swim in the pool or the ocean, the options are endless.
FOR THE POSH HONEYMOONERS
A luxurious foodie haven like no other Raffles Hotels are synonymous with luxury, so it’s no suprise that the brand’s first foray into the Maldives, the Raffles Maldives Meradhoo, is now open. Their home in this tropical paradise is the Gaafu Alifu Atoll in the southern strip of the country near the Equator, one of the largest and most remote atolls in the world. Glamorous beach villas are built on the natural island, encircled by powdery white sand while the overwater villas rise out from the dappled turquoise water. The ultra-remote location is free of light pollution, so looking for shooting stars and dreaming of the far-off galaxies is a nightly pastime. The outdoor pool and shower in the 18 beach villas and three two-bedroom beach residences are an ideal spot to enjoy a starry night. With soft waves lapping against the stilts of the above-water villa, the lavish one- and two-bedroom addresses are reached aboard a Maldivian bonito, a traditional fishing boat. Terraces in the overwater villas have glass panel floors where electric blue trumpet fish, rays and even green sea turtles flutter through the crystal-clear water to create dazzling personal aquariums. Marble bathrooms, heavenly beds and soothing soft blue hues add to the natural elements of the light-filled and generously proportioned villas. Enjoy fresh-cut fruits and flaky pastries at breakfast, choose a bottle of premium Champagne at the pool bar in the afternoon and end the day with fresh seafood at Nikkei, where creative and skilled chefs deliciously interpret Peruvian cuisine through a local lens with Japanese precision. The adjoining Overwater Bar favors South American and Japanese spirits, with lots of mezcal, tequila, pisco, and sake, and pairings complement fish tacos and fresh-caught oysters. Plucked-from-the-sea prawns, delicious grouper and lobsters are marinated and grilled at Firepit, a gourmet beachside barbecue with an exceptional list of Old and New World wines. Complete your stay with a rejuvenating spa treatment and swim past dazzling coral walls as you mingle with the schools of tropical fish that await in the warm waters. www. raffles.com/maldives; villas from US$1,778 with breakfast. Recliners with a view, or two.
A beach with surreal colours in every direction.
A spacious Tented Jungle Villa.
FOR THE FAMILY THAT TRAVELS IN STYLE Spacious villas with endless perks
Tucked away on the western rim of the Shaviyani Atoll, the all-villa Fairmont Maldives Sirru Fen Fushi occupies a delightfully remote slice of sand surrounded by water that is such a perfect shade of turquoise it looks like an Instagram filter in real life. Guests arrive at this tropical paradise after a scenic hour-long seaplane flight from Malé. In total, the 120 villas are a blend of art and nature made from natural materials, indigenous decorations and native patterns. One of the country’s biggest islands, and its lagoon, richly populated with 250 species of colorful reef fish, is also top of the charts for size. Yet, the biggest attraction for divers and snorkelers alike are the manta-cleaning stations found under the waves here. Witnessing manta rays in their natural habitat like this is priceless. Trade the saltwater and sea turtles for a round of cocktails in the 200-meter-long infinity pool— another bigger-than-most amenity—that traverses the length of the island. Across a trio of accommodation options, 120 villas offer something for every vacation style. Honeymooners delight in over-water villa, an essential fixture of any Maldivian resort, that have generously sized sundecks with hammocks and a huge infinity pool, where newlyweds can choose their preferred villa view of sunrise or sunset. Targeting multi-generational families are roomy beach villas that have plunge pools and childcentric hangout zones, including a kid’s club, toddler play garden and an area exlusively aimed at teens. Adventure seekers will find a home in the safari-like tented jungle villas with outdoor pools. Around the resort, personal
villa hosts fulfill any wish from dive lessons in the undiscovered reef around the island to private barbecues. A breezy chic style brings a cohesive look and feel to the villas by using light woods and a natural pop of color coming from the floor-to-ceiling views of the turquoise waters. One of the many show-stopping elements in the resort is the semi-submerged art gallery, the first of its kind in the Maldives, created by renowned underwater naturalist and artist Jason deCaires Taylor. The configurations of the gallery were designed to act as an artificial reef and it’s a high-end coral regeneration project that is a sanctuary for the marine life. Guests can snorkel around the stainless-steel cubes and enjoy the vibrant coral. www.fairmont.com/maldives; villas from US$1,020 on a half-board rate.
A Water villa premium bathroom at the Fairmont.
tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
57
FOR THE ECO-LUXE FAMILY
A new resort gets environmental kudos
Clean, ecofriendly lines of the Movenpick.
Unforgettable sunset views.
Villas adapt to the natural environment.
58
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
If the Maldives is home to a resort truly aimed at young families, then Mövenpick Resort Kuredhivaru Maldives is it, from its kid-friendly guestrooms to restaurants offering a specially created Powerbites menu for children. Parents win too. While mom and dad enjoy a yoga class or time in the spa, children ages two to 12 are well looked after in the Little Bird kids’ club where they can learn about the local culture through immersive games and activities, participate in educational but fun eco-friendly activities, or enjoy a cooking class. And when it comes to mealtime, the chefs creatively transform meals into beachscapes with palm trees made from veggies and a scoop of fried rice mimicking the sand, adding a touch of whimsy to kid-specific meals with the Powerbites menu. Clunky baby gear, like playpens, strollers, car seats and even baby baths are available, allowing families to travel light. There’s another aspect of Mövenpick Resort Kuredhivaru Maldives that shouldn’t go unnoticed, even under a tropical sun: its Swiss roots. Unwind in a café culture environment with top quality Mövenpick products including coffee, chocolate, ice-cream and wine. Or indulge in a sweet treat during the afternoon: a glass of iced coffee or a scoop of ice-cream. Then there’s the daily—and complimentary—Mövenpick Chocolate Hour, which is as delicious as it sounds. Later in the day, wine tastings—there is a test at the end to sharpen your ability to identify labels—at the Mövenpick Coffee & Wine Lounge take place at sundown. To cap off a perfect day, the menu at Bodumas offers local and Asian dishes, and Western classics, all with a 360-degree ocean view. The aim here is to make sure the vibrant islands and coral reefs are around for generations to come. Those efforts arise in several ways, from reducing plastic waste, paperless check-in and out and avoiding over packaging to installing solar panels that produce clean energy and building an in-house plant that eliminates the need for 300,000 plastic water bottles a year. Incorporating the island’s natural resources and elements is a design element, and the furniture and structural elements come from coconut wood. During construction, the island’s indigenous palm trees were not disturbed, so the lush island has plenty of shade under swaying palms. The 72 overwater pool villas have nets suspended over water, and private pools jut out from the wooden deck, giving the sensation of floating in the sea. The 30 beach pool suites offer sunrise and sunset views, and follow an open-concept floor plan that includes rattan furniture, a free-standing stone bathtub and a spacious pool deck. On the second story veranda, panoramic views await. Dip into the plunge pool or the ocean water without ever leaving the comfort of the suite. All of the resort’s villas and communal spaces adopt techniques from local architecture, and the Asianinspired peaked roofs are dramatic. www.movenpick. com; suites and villas from US$588 with breakfast. >>
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
Overwater Sunset Pool Villas beckon.
FOR VALUE-SEEKING TRAVELERS
Affordable villas packed with style Located in the far southern reaches of this sweeping island nation, the Mercure Maldives Kooddoo Resort is known for its remote location, one that is only a 55-minute flight from Male. Value seekers score well here for the 68-villa resort offers some of the best diving in the Maldives, its deep channels providing an underwater setting unlike anywhere else in the country. Gaafu Alif Atoll lies in southern region of the Maldives archipelago, a mere 100 kilometers north of the Equator. These seas are renowned for its prodigious marine life, mature vegetation, soft sand beaches and easy access. Where the Mercure Maldives Kooddoo Resort offers great value, it doesn’t skimp on character or luxury, with 43 overwater villas not to mention 25 more along the secluded beach. Each has outdoor showers, deep soaking tubs and punchy accent colors that bring a touch of
Dining by design at the Mercure.
whimsy to the proceedings. Sun seekers and swimmers will delight in the overwater villas—15 with private pools—that have staircases that lead directly into the calm blue and green waters that halo the rooms. For the ultimate in relaxed pampering, book a treatment at Suvadiva Spa. If a more adrenaline-packed afternoon is in order, the dive center can arrange a meeting with local sharks that harmlessly navigate the reef waters. Or, if something between these two pursuits hits the right note, take a stand-up paddleboard to the hammocks and cocktails at Vistas, an overwater lounge and cocktail bar. Best of all, the magic of the Mercure Maldives Kooddoo Resort starts on the arrival flight where the dramatic scenery of the atolls insists that you book a window seat and have your camera ready: the views, and the memories that they provide, are nothing short of spectacular. www.mercure.com/maldives/kooddooresort; villas from US$238 including breakfast.
COMING SOON
A new and convenient ocean-borne address promises to increase the variety of what's available in the Maldives even more.
Welcome to the Pullman Maldives Maamutaa Resort.
60
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
Pullman Maldives Maamutaa Resort From a seaplane, the first thing visitors will notice about the 120-villa Pullman Maldives Maamutaa is how green the island actually is. Yet, the resort is only 10 minutes by speedboat away from the new airport at Kooddoo. Set amid azure seas, the resort consists of 80 bungalows above the water and another 40 located along beaches. Don't overlook the spa, two swimming pools, organic gardens, and—of course—a tennis court. Your serve and volley have never seen such a setting. Among the unique experiences at the resort are a champagne breakfast with a variety of cuisines from every corner of the globe. Lunch involves a selection of light meals and snacks, a salad bar and a dessert bar, while dinner’s fine dining options include mouthwatering Italian, organic and international menus.
Cosy up to the bar for a selection of champagnes, whiskeys in the 15to 18-year range, a fridge full of international beers, and more than 80 exotic wine labels—both New World and Old. Don’t miss out on Pullman’s hand-crafted cocktails and mocktails, or the long list of fresh juices, milk shakes, soft drinks and mineral water. For the active set, there’s dawn and dusk Tai Chi and yoga sessions, and each stay includes one adventure excursion. Try your hand fishing at sunset while your kids are enjoying the resort’s kids club. At the Pullman Aqua Club is complimentary snorkeling equipment and two snorkeling excursions shuttles each day. Windsurfers, catamarans, canoes and stand-up paddleboards are also available. All guests are eligible for at least one 60-minute spa session or a dive, provided they have a PADI certificate. pullman.com.
br ands
Pullman Bangkok King Power, Thailand.
Pullman Pullman Phuket Arcadia Naithon Beach, Thailand.
The Junction at Pullman The Junction is a fresh new take on the lobby concept and is at the very heart of the Pullman guest experience. It is a destination in itself, a dynamic, vibrant and happening place where global nomads check in and out, meet and mingle, work and play. Pullman Power Fit & Spa concept At Pullman, we understand that feeling good is crucial to peak performance and offer global nomads exciting and rewarding ways to stay on top of their game. Our Wellness Ambassador Sarah Hoey’s holistic approach to Sport, Spa, Sleep and Food boosts our guests’ daily life in a powerful way. Immersive Art & Design A stay at Pullman is an opportunity for our guests to be immersed in art
62
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
and design in a fresh, modern and inspiring way. Exhibitions take place in living spaces lending to the Pullman’s creative vibe and invite guests to discover local up-andcoming artists, connecting them to the city they are in. Pullman Resorts We continually imagine new ways of doing business and unwinding in an ever more connected world. Our guests can work and play as they disconnect from the pressures of daily life and reconnect with loved ones and oneself.
some of our finest: Pullman Phuket Arcadia Naithon Beach, Thailand; Pullman Bangkok King Power, Thailand
br ands
Vitarity room in Swissôtel The Stamford, Singapore.
SwissÔtel Swiss hospitality Contemporary hotels designed with the quality and care of Swiss hospitality. We are Swiss at heart and global by nature. We offer guests the quality of life, vitality and peace of mind they need to explore the world and discover life's true rewards. Life is a journey, Live it well. Pürovel The Pürovel philosophy is derived from the origin of wellbeing and use of nature’s resources. The Pürovel essence is transfused in Pürovel Spa & Sport facilities,
Pürovel bathroom amenities and signature treatments.
Swissôtel Nankai Osaka, Japan.
Swissôtel Vitality Room A new perspective on well-being and hospitality. Launched in October 2016, the stylish sanctuary includes bespoke wellness features to help guests maintain their mental and physical health. The innovative concept builds on Swissôtel’s well-received Vitality Programme. The Quarter Signature restaurant at Swissôtel Hotels & Resorts a reminiscent of a brasserie/bistro, international and eclectic, a restaurant where locals ‘want to be’, embracing contemporary design as well as the values of Swissôtel as a brand with an emphasis on fresh, local and sustainable products.
some of our finest: Swissôtel Sydney, Australia; Swissôtel Nankai Osaka, Japan; Swissôtel The Stamford, Singapore; Swissôtel Merchant Court, Singapore
tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
63
A pool with a view at SO/ Bangkok.
Bangkok and Phuket couldn’t be more different, but they do share the ongoing ability to evolve and constantly surprise visitors, so it’s never a bad time to explore the country’s most popular stops once again. By Duncan Forgan
64
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
Two Sides of Thailand
Lounging at the Pullman Phuket Arcadia Naithon Beach.
Wat Arun along the Chao Phraya river at dusk.
The Speakeasy atop the Hotel Muse Bangkok. Langsuan, MGallery
Bangkok might not evoke images of chilling out, frenetic as the big city is, but as I take a pew at Park Society and sup my way through a sundowner,
I find myself lulled into a reverie by the drink and my immediate surroundings. Benefitting from the prized perch high above Lumpini Park—one of the more sizeable patches of greenery in the Thai capital—the bar at the sumptuous SO/ Bangkok is a stellar addition to the city’s sky-high club: its impressive roster of rooftop drinking venues. The views across the park with its lakes and luminous tropical greenery are impressive. My gaze is drawn to the chrome-and-glass towers that dominate the skyline on the other side of the park; vertigo-inducing structures that were but a distant twinkle in the eyes of ambitious developers when I first visited nearly 20 years ago. What has not changed—and at this realization I raise a quiet toast—is the ability of Bangkok and, indeed, Thailand, to hit the sweet spot of travelers. At once chaotic, confusing, but also utterly magical, the inexhaustible capital is as spellbinding as ever. Regularly voted one of the best cities on the planet by visitors, the city remains a place of seemingly endless contrasts. Here old merges seamlessly with new, the spiritual is balanced with the earthly and the sacred is on first name terms with the profane. Although it retains its innate exoticism, Bangkok’s breakneck evolution means that even experienced hands like me are constantly presented with fresh fuel for our ardour. On any given day, visitors can kick back at an authentic Japanese-style onsen, take an art excursion to hip galleries such as Case Space Revolution and Cartel Artspace, browse Thai designer fashion at Siam Center and round off an evening with bespoke cocktails at speakeasy-style bars like Rabbit Hole and J Boroski Mixology. Best of all, this eclecticism is at play in a wide variety of neighbourhoods, ranging from some of the city’s most venerable quarters to upscale enclaves pulsing with vital energy. What’s more, all these areas are easily accessible via the city’s separate Skytrain and subway networks, with many stations a short hop from properties such as SO/ Bangkok, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit and others in the Accor family. Take Sathorn and Silom, for example, just a stone’s throw from my perch at Park Society. The two districts have been synonymous with Thailand’s financial growth. It’s not just the swanky condos, international hotels and glittering skyscrapers bearing the names of big-name multinationals that make this part of Bangkok so dynamic. It’s also the fact that the twin ’hoods have evolved to offer one of the most rounded lifestyle packages in the capital. tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
67
bangkok
As diverse as the Thai capital itself, the city’s top hotel addresses cater to every budget, offering stylish comfort, convenient locations and—of course—some of the best Thai food imagineable.
Grand Mercure Bangkok Fortune.
Everything at one address in The Commons.
Cultural draws and must-visit restaurants abound with stars including dining hotspots Bunker and Eat Me and buzzing bars like Smalls and Namsaah Bottling Trust. On a personal note, I’m especially drawn to Bangkok’s Chinatown, which has witnessed an injection of vital energy courtesy of some of the city’s most creative bars and galleries. Venturing into the melee of the old city affords an opportunity to get acquainted with ventures such as Cho Why, an independent art space, and Teens of Thailand a super-cool shophouse gin bar. With old-school markets and hidden shrines lurking nearby, it’s arguably the most charismatic place to wander in Bangkok. Temple hopping and immersion into traditional Thai culture is not such a thing in areas such as Ekkamai and Thong Lor. However, for entertainment and creature comforts there are no better places to be. Highlights of these ultra-hip hoods include restaurants like Canvas and Freebird, where chefs adopt a freewheeling approach to local ingredients. Also trending is The Commons, an open-plan community mall that features several star names from the city’s F&B scene. Other ventures worth seeking out here include ZudRangMa, a vinyl lover’s paradise that specializes in exotic sounds from Africa and Asia, and Keaton the Tailor, a playful and original stop on the map that eschews the old school personality of many of the city’s endless list of outfitters. >>
68
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
Grand Mercure Bangkok Fortune A favorable location right on Bangkok’s subway system places this newly renovated hotel right in the thick of things, with easy links to highlights such as the old city and Chatuchak Weekend Market. Thai flavours abound at the property through everything from the cuisine to traditional music performances. grandmercurebangkokfortune. com; from US$150. Hotel Muse Bangkok Langsuan, MGallery Designed to evoke the “golden age of travel,” this boutique exudes effortless style and class. Warm wooden features and seductive lighting evoke the past, while Asian motifs counterbalance the European feel of the place. Special mention goes to Speakeasy: one of Bangkok’s most pleasant rooftop bars. hotelmusebangkok.com; from US$190. Ibis Bangkok Riverside From its perch by the Chao Phraya River, nearby highlights include popular lifestyle and shopping venue Asiatique, while Bangkok bighitters such as the Grand Palace and Wat Arun are but a ferry ride away. Ibis-bangkok-riverside. bangkokshotels.com; from US$63. Ibis Styles Bangkok Khaosan Viengtai A funky and creative hotel in one of the hotspots for foreign tourists, the hotel offers simple but design led experience. Nearby Streats is a one-stop culinary destination with three separate venues offering everything from gourmet bakery items to hearty comfort food. ibisstylesbangkokkhaosan.com; from US$100.
Novotel Bangkok Siam Square Although its proximity to some of Bangkok’s most famous and modern shopping districts makes it ideally placed for retail therapy, this property is not just geared towards shopaholics. Spacious rooms are ideal for kicking back in, while a generously sized outdoor pool ups the relaxation ante further. novotelbkk.com; from US$150. Pullman Bangkok Grande Sukhumvit A stone’s throw from the city’s Skytrain system and the lifestyle amenities of Sukhumvit Road, this hotel couldn’t be better located. Other draws include the seafood buffet at Atelier restaurant and the small bites at Tapas Vino. pullmanbangkokgrandesukhumvit. com; from US$192. Pullman Bangkok King Power A little north of the city’s main shopping area, this hotel fuses creature comforts with irresistible convenience. Airy rooms benefit from floor-to-ceiling windows while the property’s huge outdoor swimming pool is a winner. pullmanbangkokkingpower.com; from US$171. SO/ Bangkok There’s plenty to admire about the SO/ Bangkok: not least its striking design by Christian Lacroix. Special mention though goes to its elevated bar, Park Society, which benefits from a prize perch high above Lumpini Park—one of Bangkok’s few sizeable patches of verdant greenery. so-sofitel-bangkok.com; from US$200. Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit Also centrally located, this urban haven exudes Gallic flair in every corner of the hotel, from the bathroom amenities to the fresh baked croissants and patisserie items in its lobby café. The guest rooms here are as luxurious as you would expect from a Sofitel, while a gorgeous outdoor pool supplies extra joie de vivre. sofitel-bangkok-sukhumvit.com; from US$199.
br ands
Angsana Velavaru, Maldives.
Angsana Laguna Phuket, Thailand.
Angsana Adventure travel Angsana brings the adventure back into travel whatever your age or reason to visit. Intertwining local chic and a vibrant fun-filled atmosphere, Angsana offers amazing destination playgrounds across the world. Each hotel is designed to provide spacious stylish rooms and suites, perfect for couples, families and groups of friends. a Spa, of course Angsana’s Spas embrace the contemporary, holistic and tropical garden spa concepts through all the resorts around Asia.
meet and greet Corporate functions, business meetings or grand gala events, our resorts feature exclusive spaces in stunning locations. With a specialised Events Team and impeccable service, guests are assured of exceptional events. don't forget your Family With various activities available for the kids, Angsana is the perfect family holiday destination. Enjoy all-day activities at the Kids Club, familyfriendly water and land activities and kids amenities.
some of our finest: Angsana Laguna Phuket, Thailand; Angsana Velavaru, Maldives; Angsana Lang Co, Vietnam; Angsana Tengchong Hot Spring Village, China
tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
69
Pool views at the Avista Grand Phuket Karon, MGallery.
Such inspiring evolution is not just confined to Bangkok: it applies to other top destinations in Thailand too. In particular, Phuket. So famous is the kingdom’s most popular island that you’d be forgiven for thinking it had no remaining secrets to reveal. But the so-called “Pearl of the Andaman” has proved itself rather adept at pulling rabbits from the hat. With numerous chalk-white slivers of sand dotted around its perimeter, Phuket’s main claims to fame are its bays and seascapes. Rightly so. And the appearance of a clutch of inviting new beachside draws means that there has never been a better juncture to load up on, as the T-shirts say, Vitamin Sea. Yes, Phuket is a playground. And it’s well beyond the days of a shovel and pail at the beach. At the Novotel Phuket Surin Beach Resort, the Siam Adventure Club offers a Popsicle hotline, which is exactly what it sounds like. Any kid can pick up the phone, order their favorite flavor and it will be delivered in minutes free of charge. The Siam Adventure Club also offers a video arcade aimed at kids four years old and up, but also at parents who need their own break with the help of classic games such as the Mario Bros and Donkey Kong. A cinema and candy store round out the attractions here. At the Grand Mercure Phuket Patong Resort & Villas, authentic Thai dishes at Jewel of Phuket’s Cuisine are seasoned to family tastes. Mee Hoon Gaeng Poo, yellow crab curry with vermicelli noodles, and Oh Aew, banana jelly and palm seed coconut ice
70
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
cream, are just two courses that will please every member of the family. Away from the resorts, there’s no shortage of menus that kids will enjoy. Jungceylon is a magnet for both shopping and eating, with a please every palate list of sandwiches and pizzas and ice cream, Mediterranean and Japanese and, of course, Thai offerings all making the cut here. To burn off some of that lunch, head to Dino Park Mini Gold between Karon and Kata beaches. It’s 18 holes set against a prehistoric backdrop—there’s even a Flintstones-themed restaurant—isn’t, how to put this, a normal golf course. Life-like dinos are ready to snap up any errant golf ball, while the hazards include an erupting volcano. Most importantly, it’s a great escape from the tropical sun. On Kamala Beach, legendary Ibiza name Café del Mar packs in revelers with a tried and tested blend of ingredients that encompasses great food, international DJs, a big party pool lined with loungers and plenty of day beds. Just as popular with the party crowd is Bliss Beach Club, overlooking the porcelain-white sands of Bangtao Beach in the quieter north of Phuket. >>
FAMILY-FRIENDLY PHUKET PARADISE
BIG SMILES THAI STYLE
AWARD-WINNING HOSPITALITY IN BEAUTIFUL KAMALA BEACH Plenty of room to stretch out and relax. Lush tropical gardens. And a lagoon-style pool with a kids area and waterslide. Welcome to an idyllic island retreat that’s pure happiness for your entire family.
SWISSOTEL.COM
AMERICAS | ASIA PACIFIC | EUROPE | MIDDLE EAST
While life on this popular island does tend to be a beach, there are plenty of other diversions around. For visitors looking for some retail therapy, the most convenient collection of high-end boutiques is located at The Plaza Surin. Standout shops here include Andara Boutique with its comprehensive and colorful selection of resort wear and Soul of Asia, where art and antiques from around the region are a boon for browsers and buyers alike. Close by is Bampot where Scottish chef Jamie Wakeford has forged a formidable word of mouth reputation around the island with his creative, modern European menu. While I appreciate the never-ending buzz of popular beaches such as Patong, Kata and Karon and the laid-back reverie of stretches along the coast like Kamala and Naithon, my own personal happy place on the island is Phuket Town itself. The island’s capital used to be largely overlooked by visitors eager to arrive at the beaches, but tourists are starting to fall for the town, which is redolent with reminders of Phuket’s rich history of trade. The best place to launch an investigation is along Thalang Road, the historical heart of Phuket Town and home to some of its best-preserved examples of heritage architecture. A short hop away is Raya House, one of the most famous restaurants in a food-obsessed town. Visitors can slurp down the venue’s famous crab curry— so good that it has become an Instagram hit. Yet while its signature dish has become a social media star, the beautifully preserved Sino-Portuguese structure that houses the restaurant is a stately portal to a bygone era. It’s a reminder that the magic of Thailand resides in its ability to offer new experiences without losing track of its enchanting past. Never pass up a seafood meal in Phuket.
phuket
There’s more than a few unforgettable beaches on Thailand’s favorite island, so after your days on the sand are fulfilled, make sure you explore the rest of the getaway through its great resorts
Avista Grande Phuket Karon, MGallery Phuket’s rich heritage as a hub of trade is celebrated via the Sino-Portuguese design touches found around this property. The resort’s signature restaurant Portosino expands on this theme with its mash-up of Asian and European culinary styles. Karon beach—one of Phuket’s finest stretches of sand —is right on the doorstep. avistagrande-phuket-karon.com; from US$100 per night. Avista Hideaway Phuket Patong, MGallery Downtown Patong’s freneticism seems a world away at this suitably named refuge. Laid out in the style of a traditional Thai village on a lush hilltop overlooking the Andaman Sea, the resort has numerous enticing calling cards including three swimming pools, two restaurants and a rooftop bar. avistahideaway-phuket-patong.com; from US$120 per night. Grand Mercure Phuket Patong With more than 300 rooms including sumptuous suites and a selection of pool villas, there’s a lot to discover at this expansive property. In fact, enticing foodand-beverage options such as a dedicated craft beer lounge and versatile international dining venue Bubbles mean that the resort offers a one-stop shop for guests near Phuket’s most buzzing beach. grandemercurepatong.com; from US$120 per night. Ibis Styles Phuket City The myriad charms of Phuket Town are often overlooked by visitors eager to hit the island’s beaches. This sleek stop offers hip stays within easy reach of urban attractions including colorful traditional shophouses and an incredible selection of restaurants and food stalls. accorhotels.com; from US$50 per night. Novotel Phuket Kata Avista Resort & Spa Overlooking the pristine sands of Kata Beach and the shimmering Andaman Sea, this resort is a solid all-rounder that offers more than just a little
72
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
flair. An acclaimed spa features a range of wellness packages, while the swim up pool bar is a suitably amenable option for leisurely drinks. novotel-phuket-kata-avista.com; from US$120 per night. Pullman Phuket Arcadia Naithon Beach For an idyllic Phuket getaway, look no further than this diamond of a property. Perched on a headland overlooking the Andaman Sea, the resort offers the ultimate in rest and relaxation. While Naithon Beach is just a minute’s walk from the property, two outdoor pools offer an alternative to the ocean. pullmanphuketarcadia.com; from US$120 per night. Pullman Phuket Panwa Beach Resort Sense of place is an important factor when it comes to choosing a resort. And Thai touches abound at this beautiful property. Subtle accents inform the decoration of the rooms, Thai cuisine is the mainstay at Tamarind restaurants, while relaxing massages can be enjoyed at the resort’s Talay Spa. pullmanphuketpanwa.com; from US$100 per night. Swissotel Resort Phuket Kamala Beach Located near one of Phuket’s most laid-back beaches, this resort is the perfect choice for a relaxing family vacation. Indeed, a centerpiece pool complete with waterslide offers scope for some serious splashing. Highlights include the Serenity Spa and inviting rooms equipped with private balconies. swissotelphuketkamala.com; from US$60 per night. Swissotel Resort Phuket Patong Beach. With spacious rooms, a lush pool and the Andaman Sea just 200 meters away, this resort supplies all the ingredients for an idyllic beach break. Highlights of the property include the excellent Thai and international cuisine at Flavours restaurant and a swimup pool bar. swissotelphuketpatong.com; from US$100 per night.
br ands
Mövenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali, Indonesia.
Mövenpick Jimbaran Bali, Indonesia.
MÖvenpick Mövenpick Colombo, Sri Lanka.
Mövenpick wine, coffee, chocolate… Mövenpick is the only hotel company that can offer its own branded range of fine food and beverages – from coffee and chocolate to yoghurts. A moment to enjoy true quality and to reflect on our food heritage which stretches back to 1948. Mövenpick Signature dishes Traditional Swiss recipes revisited by Mövenpick to entice the modern palate, marrying tradition with culinary innovation. Mövenpick Sleep Mövenpick SLEEP rooms include a large array of in-room amenities, arranged by us, to enhance guests’ sleep experience. These rooms are situated in quiet areas of our hotels. Mövenpick Balanced Living Mövenpick Balance is a concept to enhance guests’ life during their stay. It includes healthy food, individually different sleep, inner peace and commitment to the community.
some of our finest: Mövenpick Colombo, Sri Lanka; Mövenpick Resort & Spa Jimbaran Bali, Indonesia
tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
73
The Kiwi Connection Two addresses in New Zealand offer stylish stays, each with a distinct touch of their locale combined with Kiwi hospitality. By Lindy Alex ander
L
et there be lights. Lots of them. You get the feeling it’s an idea the designers of Auckland’s newest hotel, SO/Auckland, took to heart as you spot the imposing mega-chandelier created by Dutch design house Moooi in the entry foyer. The branches of the enormous chandelier hold 68 individual lamps of diverse styles, from dusky pink and transparent bell-shaped lights to twinkling fairy-lit orbs. It’s an installation that immediately strikes you with its scale, playfulness and beauty. But with light also comes shade and in keeping with the modern, urban hotel trend that eschews a traditional lobby, check-in is at Mixo, the ground-floor cocktail bar featuring moody South American volcanic blue stone tiles on the walls and shimmering black flooring. There is visual relief in the form of plush, velvet armchairs, fiery lava-coloured carpets, tall vases filled with flowers and suspended glass bouquets of flower blossoms above the bar. Opened in November and just a block from the water, the hotel is the latest of eight SO properties, which stretch from Bangkok to Berlin, Mauritius to Singapore. Each SO hotel pays tribute to its location through collaborations with high-profile names from
the world of fashion and design such as Kenzo, Christian Lacroix, and Viktor & Rolf. The first SO to open in the Pacific region, renowned local fashion innovator WORLD was engaged to create bold and energetic designs for the property over a three-year period. The in-room artwork right down to the wallpaper, cushions for the chauffeured cars and the individualized, hand-made uniforms for the staff, are all meticulously detailed and extravagantly executed. Drawing on Auckland’s rich volcanic geography, the hotel’s emblem is a stylized topographical map of the city. “The swirling, hypnotic effect feels as though you’re looking directly into the eye of a volcano,” says Benny Castles, designer and director for WORLD. “It reflects that feeling of stepping into a boutique hotel—a hypnotic experience where the outside world is left behind and a new experience begins.” The dynamic theming of the hotel flows into the 130 guest rooms, and gives a nod to the building’s history as the former Reserve Bank, which once housed New Zealand’s gold reserves. The suites are decorated in three different styles: vapor, liquid and solid, and each room references earthly elements—think rust-coloured padded velvet headboards, white cushions with a swirling black vortex, gold hand basins, and black and gold carpets. The glamour and bling continues on the 15th floor, where Michelin-starred French chef Marc de Passorio is at the helm in the hotel’s restaurant, Harbour Society. The menu is French-inspired but features Kiwi flavours,
Marc de Passorio. top
from left: A
Harbour Society entree; the view at SO/ SPA. opposite from top: The
definitive portecochere at SO/ Auckland; the Green Room bar, Sofitel Wellington.
tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
75
T
A Cocktail Trio at The Green Room, Sofitel Wellington. above: Jardin Grill restaurant.
76
with exquisitely presented dishes such as the codfish poached in spiced milk with seasonal vegetables and aioli, and lamb rack with raspberry harissa. For de Passorio, working at the hotel is a culinary adventure. “New Zealand offers so many things, from fantastic produce and wine to amazing scenery wherever you go, fresh air and generous, friendly people,” says de Passorio. “When I was invited to join SO/ Auckland as the Head Culinary Designer I felt it was fate and an offer impossible to refuse.” Another offer impossible to refuse is cocktails at the HI-SO rooftop bar. With sweeping views over the harbour and the rising volcanic cone of Rangitoto Island, the lively indoor-outdoor bar is the perfect spot to order a “sunset gun,” a beautifully balanced sweet and sour cocktail with a hint of smoke to nurse as you watch the sky turn pink over the city of sails.
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
he chic Sofitel brand has earned the enviable reputation for being able to effortlessly blend French sophistication with the local environment. But even so, when you’re greeted with a warm and genuine “bonjour!” at the Sofitel Wellington, you could be forgiven for momentarily forgetting where in the world you are. Any lapses in memory are quickly remedied by home-grown hints scattered throughout the sumptuously furnished property, such as the gilded apple and pear sculptures (the hotel was once home to the New Zealand Apple and Pear Board), and the two-meterhigh glossy, botanical images of plump roses and hydrangeas by Kiwi photographer Vicky Fulton in the Green Room lounge and bar. The décor calls on Paris’ iconic Jardin du Luxembourg, with the shimmering copper throughout the interior reminiscent of the garden’s beehives. Wellington’s lush botanic gardens are nearby and the framed botanical prints, floral frescoes and patterned wallpapers cultivate a wonderfully peaceful atmosphere. Within the 129 guestrooms and suites, the French and botanical themes continue, with vintage gold and bronze tones, gilded lamps, velvet bedheads and heady Orange Amber Lanvin toiletries. But the opulence of Sofitel hotels is captured in the heart of every room— the luxurious custom-made MyBed. Together with the high-quality linen, pillow menu, and thick fluffy towels it’s tempting to call it a night (or day) and stay in. But if you did, you’d be missing out on the Jardin Grill, where you can dine under vibrant blossoming paintings with a view into the glimmering copper kitchen. The menu celebrates New Zealand produce but with a twist, such as the chargrilled Merino lamb rib with yellow miso, chive yoghurt and caramelized onion, or the house made tagliatelle with black tiger prawns, tomato, spinach, chilli oil and crispy fried basil. After you’ve lingered over your meal, the naturally friendly staff doesn’t hesitate to say, “bonne nuit” before you retire to your own little piece of France, right in the centre of New Zealand’s capital.
the details SO/ Auckland Rates begin from NZ$469 per room per night and include a complimentary non-alcoholic minibar. Sofitel Wellington Room rates start from NZ$269 per room per night.
br ands
Grand Mercure Grand Mercure Jakarta Kemayoran, Indonesia.
Grand Mercure Yangon Golden Empire, Myanmar.
stories come to life At Grand Mercure, we welcome each guest by enriching four brand senses: Welcome, Taste, Wellness and Discovery. sense of welcome A royal welcome awaits you at Grand Mercure Bangalore. We grace our guest with only the finest of embrace–a Mysore Peta, classical royal Indian attire worn by the kings. sense of taste Latitude 32 North is a birth place to great teas, including Xin Yang Mao Jian, which enjoys its reputation around the world for its beautiful shining shape, refreshing good taste and fragrance. sense of wellness Immerse in the Sense of Wellness with our award-winning and locally crafted Ryn Spa at Grand Mercure Phuket Patong.
Grand Mercure Phuket Patong, Thailand.
sense of discovery Experience authentic and elegant cultural heritage of Indonesia with batik painting. Guests can try this at the Grand Mercure Yogyakarta.
some of our finest: Grand Mercure Jakarta Kemayoran, Indonesia; Grand Mercure Phuket Patong, Thailand; Grand Mercure Zhengzhou West, China; Grand Mercure Mysore, India; Grand Mercure Yangon Golden Empire, Myanmar
tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
77
br ands
Mercure Maldives Kooddoo Resort, Maldives.
Mercure Bangkok Sukhuvit 11, Thailand.
Mercure Locally Inspired Each hotel has its own style and personality. Locally rooted, the design and decor of each hotel tells an authentic & inspiring story. Blending classic decoration with a modern twist or contemporary design & heritage, with a new bedding offer, Mercure hotels are a promise of an inspiring escape. While every Mercure hotel is unique, all share the same passion for high quality services. So from the moment our guests step inside a Mercure—be it in the Maldives or in Bangkok—
78
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
they are immersed in their destination. Mercure, Locally inspired hotels. Local wine & beverage concept Offer of quality wines or beverage with a story to tell, locally produced or selectively distributed by demanding producers, at attractive prices anyway.
some of our finest: Mercure Maldives Kooddoo Resort, Maldives; Mercure Bangkok Makkasan, Thailand; Mercure Bangkok Sukhumvit 11, Thailand
br ands
Tribe Perth, Australia.
Tribe Perth, Australia.
Tribe Tribe is a new kind of hotel. One that responds directly to the desires and aspirations of the modern traveller. A concept inspired by global journeys and an uncompromising vision to deliver a uniquely positioned, design driven hotel. A refreshing and disruptive brand, Tribe challenges the status quo with its edited hotel experience thatmakes it a leader in the design-led affordable luxury sector. Modern travellers, we made this hotel for you. Welcome to Tribe.
some of our finest: Tribe Perth, Australia
tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
  79
HYDEPARADISO
FOLLOW
LEVEL 2, PEPPERS SOUL HOTEL 8 THE ESPLANADE, SURFERS PARADISE QUEENSLAND, 4217
BOOK A BOOTH
OCEANFRONT VIEWS, DINNER, DRINKS & DANCING.
H Y D E PA R A D I S O.C O M
T H E P L AC E T O B E S E E N , BY T H E S E A
On the Menu Down Under
One route to uncovering Australia is through its food and drink menus. Regardless of where you are, writes Lindy Alexander, you’ll only get a true taste of this diverse country when drinking and dining.
Views to inspire from Mount Lofty House.
tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
81
Think of Australia and images of the Outback, Sydney Harbour and the Great Barrier Reef immediately spring to mind. Yet, spread across this great expanse of a nation is any number of opportunities for an unforgettable meal or drinks in settings that will remain wonderful memories after you've returned home. Whether it's a night of sipping champagne while overlooking Sydney, a must-visit corner of foodmad Melbourne or courses of artisanal creations in Barossa Valley, here is a sampling that no trip to Australia is complete without. Champagne Bar Sofitel Sydney Darling Harbour The glittering lights and shimmering waters of Sydney are superbly framed by panoramic floor-toceiling windows at Sofitel’s Champagne Bar. Here you can savour the world’s finest champagne (this is the only spot in Australia serving Louis Roeder—the 2009 Philippe Stark Brut Nature). On Saturday nights the bar is the best spot to see fireworks on the harbour. Louder than a champagne cork popping, but guaranteed to get your weekend started with a bang. Be sure to order: Caviar to go with your champagne. Atelier by Sofitel Sofitel Sydney Darling Harbour A short walk from the State Theatre, Atelier is ideal for dinner before a show. The three interactive food stations draw on South of France flavours, such as the Rossini beef burger with foie gras and the delicately flavoured seafood bouillabaisse with tiger prawns, mussels and saffron aioli. With native ingredients, the menu also carries hints of indigenous Australia, with native ingredients. Be sure to order: Burger Rossini for beef and foie gras lovers. The Ternary Restaurant & Bar Novotel Sydney Darling Harbour With its polished timber floorboards, light-filled dining room and pastel palette, The Ternary is Scandi-chic at its best. Pull up a seat at the bar for a cocktail unlike any other. The team of talented mixologists here each have a signature offering, but the Palpasa by Mitch is a standout—it’s short and sweet with a gin and pomegranate juice base and infused with fragrant lime and star anise. Be sure to order: Pulled pepper beef with tamarind sauce. Newmarket Restaurant The William Inglis, MGallery The equine theme is undeniable at Newmarket Restaurant, which overlooks the beautiful grounds of Riverside Stables. But there’s no horsing around when it comes to the menu. Sunday afternoons mean live music in the verdant garden, and with specific glutenfree, vegetarian and children’s menus, everyone is welcome. Be sure to order: The light and delicious minute steak paired with some seafood.
Floyd’s Bar, Pretty Boy, Goldie Canteen Novotel Melbourne Central The executive chef at these three hip establishments is a rising star on the Australian food scene. Michael Smith is known for his creativity and his commitment to local and seasonal food. Be sure to order: Pork and veal meatballs with house-made pasta. The Muse The Mitchelton Hotel Nagambie, MGallery Set on the banks of the Goulburn River in the Victorian countryside, The Muse is a restaurant renowned for paying tribute its fertile surroundings with its produce-driven menu. Summer on the terrace means indulging in wines from the estate’s extensive underground cellar, watching kangaroos and sampling dishes that highlight the region’s best flavours. Be sure to order: On this seasonal menu, try the Goulborn River Trout. Hardy’s Verandah Restaurant (HVR) Mount Lofty House, MGallery A site for lavish parties in the 1850s, Mount Lofty House is an historic estate that has been renovated to revive its original glory. With unbeatable views over the lush Piccadilly Valley, the three-chef-hat restaurant boasts Adelaide’s largest whiskey collection and contemporary dishes that change daily. Be sure to order: Do not miss the Wagyu brisket, a house speciality.
pineapple glaze, green pawpaw and Asian herbs is the go-to dish. The Cliveden Bar & Dining Pullman Melbourne On The Park As one of East Melbourne’s newest bar and dining destinations, the Clivedon is a modern interpretation of the classic buffet, transforming into a coveted fresh seafood bar on weekends. The innovative bar also creates a bespoke gin featuring Mediterranean botanicals such as rosemary, oregano and bitter almond alongside native botanicals like lemon myrtle. Be sure to order: Throughout the week it’s difficult to pass up the Tasmanian wilderness, 28-day aged beef fillet with potatoes, Yarra valley greens and red wine jus. The Cellar Kitchen Restaurant Novotel Barossa Valley Resort One of the best ways to take in the beauty of South Australia’s Barossa Valley is at sunrise in a hot air balloon. Once your feet are back on terra firma, head to The Cellar Kitchen Restaurant that has partnered with Saskia Beer, an artisan food producer, cook and food educator. The result? Sweeping views of the Barossa and the region’s best produce on a plate. — Be sure to order: Think slow roast free range chicken and caramelized onions, or Adelaide Hills grass fed, dry aged beef.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: At the
Newmarket Restaurant; a pineapple ginger sour, Temple of Tastes; the Cellar Kitchen in Barossa Valley. OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Sydney's scenic
Champagne Bar; mixing drinks at The Ternary Bar; a produce-driven menu at The Muse; Hardy's Verandah Restaurant; at Hacienda Sydney; bouillabaisse at Atelier by Sofitel.
Hacienda Sydney Pullman Quay Grand Sydney Harbour Named one of the seven most Instagrammable bars in the world, Hacienda is a playful step back in time to the grand plantation architecture of Cuba. The classic rum-based cocktails are punchy and fruitdriven. Be sure to order: Prawn skewers with sugarcane and coconut or black bean arancini. Temple of Tastes Restaurant Pullman Palm Cove Sea Temple Resort & Spa There’s nothing quite like having a tropical cocktail amongst palm trees, salt water and sunshine. Signature cocktails at this far north Queensland restaurant use locally sourced fruits, gin and smoked sugar. The result is a candied pineapple ginger sour that carries notes of incredible depth and provenance. Be sure to order: Sesame crusted tuna. Enough said. Aluco Restaurant and Bar Pullman Port Douglas Sea Temple Resort & Spa Overlooking a magnificent lagoon pool is the Aluco Restaurant and Bar, a relaxed restaurant within walking distance to secluded Four Mile Beach. Line caught fish from the nearby Great Barrier Reef features heavily on the seafood-inspired menu. For that special champagne dinner, book the poolside. Be sure to order: The crispy baby barramundi with
tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
83
br ands
Art Series-The Blackman, Melbourne, Australia.
Art Series Art Inspired, Creative, Refined, Personal & Engaging, Contemporary, Distinct.
Art Series-The Johnson, Brisbane, Australia.
84
getting creative down under Inspired by and dedicated to Australian contemporary artists, each Art Series property offers a hotel experience a little extraordinary. Located in the hottest art and cultural hubs, the boutique hotels are currently found in Melbourne, Brisbane and Adelaide. Each hotel takes design inspiration from the namesake artist. With
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
original artworks and editions adorning the walls and halls, the multifaceted art inspired experience is complete with dedicated art channels, art libraries, art tours and art utensils on supply. Boasting personalised service and sophisticated style, all suites showcase up to the minute comforts and technology with Art Series signature bedding to ensure the sweetest of sleeps. Experience an extraordinary stay with Art Series Hotels.
some of our finest: Art Series-The Blackman, Melbourne, Australia; Art Series-The Fantauzzo, Brisbane, Australia
FV by Peppers, Australia.
Peppers ticket to ride Indulgent, Rejuvenating, Flexible, Memorable. spectacular getaways The Peppers brand has become synonymous with a sense of refined indulgence, an attention to detail and excellent personal service. Explore an irresistible, intriguing and indulgent range of escapes selectively located in some of Australia, New Zealand and Indonesia’s most spectacular destinations. From country estates to relaxing beachside resorts, from world-class golf resorts to romantic vineyard retreats, Peppers combines personal and friendly services with exceptional food and wine.
some of our finest: FV by Peppers, Australia; Peppers Soul Surfers Paradise, Australia
Peppers Soul Surfers Paradise, Australia.
tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
85
br ands
Mantra on Salt Beach, Australia.
Mantra something for everyone Personal, Casual, Trustworthy, Relaxed feeling right at home Whether you’re travelling on business or relaxing with family, you will feel right at home with Mantra. With hotels, resorts and self-contained apartments on the coast and in the city, you will always find the perfect space in the ideal place. Across Australia, New Zealand and Hawaii, whether you want less hassle on business trips or more good times on holiday, Mantra makes room for you.
Mantra Mooloolaba Beach, Australia.
86
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
some of our finest: Mantra on Salt Beach, Australia; Mantra South Bank, Brisbane, Australia; Mantra Lake Tekapo, New Zealand
BreakFree Moroccan, Australia.
BreakFree only the great Great value. Great locations. Great breaks. location is all Families, groups, couples, from Australia or anywhere in the world, recognise the style and promise of a BreakFree offer. For them, their stay is all about the experience of the location and the comfortable, unpretentious
accommodation and relaxed service they enjoy. Spacious, self-contained apartment accommodation combines value with access to the best beaches, city highlights and holiday attractions, making them ideal for leisure seekers and corporate travellers alike.
BreakFree on George, Australia.
some of our finest: BreakFree Moroccan, Australia; BreakFree on George, Australia
tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
87
The Next Beach Long the next great island, these days Phu Quoc really is entering the mainstream—at its own pace. By Ron Gluckman
Thing
High above the waters surrounding Phu Quoc.
tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
89
A
s the cable car slowly soars above Pineapple Island, the huge fishing fleet of Phu Quoc comes into view, hundreds of idyllic boats swaying in a series of stunning azure coves, the entire scene drenched by a golden tropical sunset. These squid boats from Vietnam’s southernmost island are visible every night, green lights blazing on the horizon to illuminate their way to the evening catch. For decades, this has been the most captivating sight in Phu Quoc, aside from the endless stretches of mostly deserted, sparkling white sand. Then, the world’s longest cable car started service, above the southernmost point of Phu Quoc, offering scenic rides to a string of islands in a gorgeous green wilderness. The cable car not only put Phu Quoc in the famed Guinness World Records book, but also signaled the seriousness of investment pouring into this Rich Land, as Phu Quoc translates. For more than a decade, Phu Quoc has been touted around the region as the new Phuket. The comparison is apt, if only in scale: Phu Quoc is roughly the same size Thailand’s world-renowned island getaway. Where Phu Quoc could always boast of an abundance of natural beauty, phenomenal beaches and scrumptious seafood, Vietnam has taken a considerably slower tact in developing its own island gem. “I wanted to come visit five years ago,” says Lon, a young entrepreneur from Hanoi who I met one night. “But it was just so difficult to get flights.” Back then, the only option besides boats, was flying first to Ho Chi Minh, the only city with air connection to the island. He said it was easier to travel to Singapore or Thailand. “We were a family, and it was too much trouble.” That’s not necessarily a bad thing, according to Stefano Cazzola, an Italian who has been visiting Phu Quoc since the 1990s. His Asco Lotus travel company specializes in Southeast Asia, and he’s seen boom times for tourism from Thailand to Cambodia, even little Laos. “Phu Quoc has gone slowly,” he concedes, “but it remains as beautiful as in the old days. There isn’t another place like this in Southeast Asia, an island with beaches like this, so beautiful and unspoiled. And now, with the airport and visa on arrival, Phu Quoc is going to take off. I have no doubt.” That’s never been more true, now that Air Asia has four weekly flights from Kuala Lumpur to Phu Quoc.
Formerly a place of exile, and a prison, Phu Quoc was targeted as a holiday destination decades ago. In 2004, Vietnam designated it as a center of international tourism, and launched plans for an international airport. That opened in 2012, but the innovative introduction of visa-free travel didn’t ramp up visitation, since there were, and still are few overseas connections. Yet the slower pace has allowed ample time for planning, and preservation. Unlike the pell-mell development of Phuket, Phu Quoc still feels like an alluring tropical getaway, with its laid back and relaxing atmosphere. Phu Quoc National Park contributes 314 square kilometers of protected land with hundreds of plant species (dozens of them rare and endangered), which is more than half the area of Kien Giang reserve, a unesco World Biosphere Reserve. The cable car-line stretches nearly eight kilometers, and provides a scenic view of not only of the greenery, but another sight less commonly seen on Phu Quoc until recently: a long stretch of upmarket beachside resorts. Long established on the backpack circuit, these new
Poolside at Mövenpick Resort Waverly Phu Quoc.
generation of resorts are pushing Phu Quoc in many new directions, as a family destination, and also for high-end luxury holidays. One of the biggest developments is on the western side of the island. This is where most of the older Phu Quoc resorts are scattered along the idyllic 20-kilometer Long Beach. South of this beach, a new area of luxury resorts includes a sailing club that opened in November, and the island debut of famed designer Ashley Sutton. An Australian acclaimed for his inventive bars like Iron Balls Distillery and Maggie Choo in Bangkok, and Ophelia and the new Dragonfly in Hong Kong. For Phu Quoc he created Ink 360, a rooftop bar with sunset views and fantastic locally inspired octopus theme. One of the most exciting new properties is Premier Village Phu Quoc (accorhotels.com), an all pool villa resort at the southern end of the island, not far from the cable car. The 217 luxurious villas feature big deck, living room and dining room, plus kitchenette, with gorgeous views of beaches and seaside boulders. While the resort comes with all the modern amenities and services any
traveler could ask for, the setting is what truly sets it apart. Taking a page from the natural beauty of the island, Premier Village is surrounded by lush tropical forests and faces a seascape that boasts crystal clear waters and beaches that are really pristine stretches of white sand. The resort joins two other Accor properties: Novotel Phu Quoc Resort (accorhotels.com) in the center of the island and close to the airport, and colonial-themed La Veranda Phu Quoc, a 70-room boutique in the M Gallery Collection, that was one of the first to bring an upscale experience to the island on the very north side. This trio makes certain that there is a resort for every type of traveler, whether it’s a family vacation or a short, romantic getaway. In the pipeline are two other properties on the island. Designed in a modern, airy style, the MÖvenpick Resort Waverly Phu Quoc arrives on the scene with 282 rooms and 17 suites, plus 325 rooms and four two-bedroom suites in a separate condotel. Twenty-five minutes from the airport, there are also 79 private pool villas. The tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
91
A colourful escape.
MÖvenpick will cater to families with three swimming pools, two separate kids’ pools, and a kid and teens club. Pullman Phu Quoc Beach Resort is located on the west side of the island just 20 minutes from the international airport. With 332 rooms designed with a colourful and modern aesthetic, each with a sea view, the resort is geared towards its beach and ocean front. Be sure to check out the 40 deluxe executive villas—each has a semi-private pool. Among the drinking and dining options are a sunset bar, a grill and a welcoming area around the main pool. Still, around Phu Quoc, the main attractions aside from simply relaxing include visiting a bee farm, pepper plantation and fish sauce factories. The local Kampot pepper used to be world famous, and is in the midst of a revival on the mainland in Cambodia. Vietnamese still flock to Phu Quoc in droves to tour factories producing the pungent fish sauce, a mainstay in Vietnamese cooking. While it may not be to everyone’s liking, consider that it’s the local equivalent of wine tasting in France. But it’s still easy, not to mention delightful to get lost on Phu Quoc.
92
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
A suite view at Pullman Phu Quoc.
br ands
Ibis Makassar City Center, Indonesia.
Ibis vibrant designs ibis embodies forward-looking modern design: both trendsetting and comfortable with a real feeling of home way from home. Each hotel has its own character to create vibrant and fulfilling guest experiences. A brand new flexible collection of vibrant social spaces Flexibility through different designs and flexibility in the layout. Welcome areas and public spaces are now flexible, contemporary and cosy spaces with a good-natured and warm atmosphere. Revolutionary desk-free mobile check-in.
The bedroom collection with Sweet Bed™ by ibis 4 new room designs available worldwide, modern, connected & calm equipped with a unique, innovative and modern bedding, the Sweet Bed™ by ibis.
Ibis Singapore on Bencoolen, Singapore.
Mission 15’ Any problem? We have the solution. Smile Team to the rescue! We’re on hand 24/7 to help you find your smile in 15 minutes flat.
some of our finest: ibis Adelaide, Australia; ibis Bali Legian Street, Indonesia
tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
93
Magical Myanmar
Discovering The Land of the Golden Pagodas is a step back to another era in Asia, but also a glimpse of where the nation is headed in the coming years.
by rachna sachasinh
Ballooning above the ancient town of Bagan.
f r o m to p l e f t : c o u rt esy o f R a n g o o n t e a h o u s e ; Jas o n Ga l l a n t / g e t t y i m ag es . o p p o s i t e : Ba r c r o f t M e d i a / C o n t r i b u to r / g e t t y i m ag es
A pour at the Rangoon Tea House.
After touching down in Yangon, I head straight to the spiritual centre of Myanmar, Shwedagon Pagoda. “A golden house will cast a spell,” a fortuneteller tells me as he adjusts his spectacles and presses his nose toward my palm. We sit at the base of the 105-meter golden stupa. Along the sidewalks, men in traditional checkered longyis go about their business with swagger, cranking ancient hand-powered sugarcane juicers, bundling betel leaf concoctions, chopping coconuts. Graceful women in colourful printed blouses and longyis, their faces painted with thanaka, sell clothes and cheap electronic gadgets. This city boasts the largest collection of colonial era buildings in Southeast Asia. A walking tour by Yangon Heritage Trust (yangonheritagetrust.org) takes me past the Port Authority, the High Court and grand central train station. Buddhist pagodas, Chinese and Hindu temples, churches, mosques and synagogues pop up at every turn, revealing the city’s multicultural vibe. Myanm/art (myanmartevolution.com), offers curated tours of the vibrant art scene, one fuelled by a high regard for literature. Yangon street food is a testament to its many roots, and I enlist Marc Shortt, founder of Sa Ba Street Food Tours (sabastreetfoodtours.com), to show me the ropes. We crisscross central Yangon in search of lan ta ye moh, or gangster snack, which consists of a South Indian dosa topped with local fresh vegetables and chickpeas. Steamed dumplings in Chinatown included pheto si kyet, or duck dumplings drizzled with spicy garlic oil, a Shan spin on a traditional Chinese recipe. We fill our bellies on mohinga, a fish-and-noodle soup thickened with roasted rice and chickpeas. Laphet thoke, a fermented tea-leaf salad mixed with crunchy split beans, cilantro and chillies, is a piquant Burmese invention. The thoke repertoire includes rousing varieties, including lemon, peanut, ginger and pennywort. “Many vendors don’t realize how important they are to the character of the city,” Shortt tells me. At upmarket tea houses like Rangoon Tea House (77-79 Pansodan Street), artists, journalists, shopkeepers, businessmen and tourists
Shwedagon Pagoda bathed in beautiful light.
chat over the hiss and gurgle of the espresso machines and snack on plates of fritters and curry. At Root (Bo Myat Htun Street, lower block) I dine on hearty beef stews and grilled meats that are the backbone of ethnic Wa cuisine from Myanmar’s northern hinterland. Café Salween (G15, Maha Bandola Road) and Bodhi Nava (17 Bahan Street 2) quench my caffeine cravings and signal the city’s growing affection for artisanal coffee. When it is time to shop, I head for Bogyoke Aung Sung Market (Bogyoke Road, Latha), a maze-like indoor bazaar packed with antiques, textiles and handicrafts, including made-toorder longyi tailors. At Hla Day (hladaymyanmar.com), a social enterprise, I pick up fabulous folk art and village crafts. And I peruse the head spinning gold pieces at Turquoise Mountain (turquoisemountain.org/ myanmar), a British foundation that runs an ethical studio where traditional toil. A wooden skiff ferries me across Inle Lake’s serene expanse in the northeastern Shan State known for its staggering beauty and slow-life mindset. Rugged mountains crowned with gold-tipped pagodas shimmers in the distance, swathes of brilliant green paddies and floating gardens dot the shoreline. Inthar fishermen row their wooden canoes standing up while balancing long conical basket traps, an iconic image of life on the lake. Each day on the lake is better than the last. A morning spent in Inle Treasure’s (Taunngyi, tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
95
Silhouette Man Fishing Net On Lake At Sunset.
95-9/428371003) an antique wood-framed workshop, observing women extract fine filaments from lotus stems and weave them into luscious silk textiles; an afternoon gleaning vegetables from floating gardens and learning to steam fish in banana leaves, mold potato rice balls and chop savory tomato salad, the mainstays of Inthar cuisine; a day exploring the abandoned pagodas at Indien, a lost settlement sequestered nearly five kilometers down a hidden channel. A timeless stroll down Nyaung Shwe’s weathered lanes, the gateway city to Inle Lake, reveals a bustling trading town with a frontier spirit and plenty of tidy teashops serving toothsome Shan and Indian specialties. I seek out the “five day market,” a local market that rotates among five villages on the lake. Villagers and townsfolk travel by boat, anchoring near shore in the biggest boat pile up I’ve ever seen. Ethnic Pa-O women in red plaid headscarves, Padaung and Inthar villagers do brisk business selling fresh vegetables, fruit, handicrafts, silks, amulets, farm implements and live animals. To the north, Inle Lake’s shores fold into a gently rolling landscape dotted with magical valleys. I find myself sipping Pinot Noir at Red Mountain Estate (redmountain-estate.com) and trekking to scenic coffee plantations hanging in the clouds. I feel like I’ve stumbled into a slice of Myanmar that was no different ten, twenty or perhaps even a hundred years ago. At sunrise, I climb aboard one of Balloons Over Bagan’s (balloonsoverbagan.com) rigs and drift across the dusty red plains sprinkled with golden pagodas. In the eleventh century, King Anawaratha, the first monarch to rule under the Pagan dynasty, jump started a 300-year building spree to sanctify the kingdom’s conversion to Buddhism. Over the next two centuries, Anawaratha’s heirs erected more than 10,000 pagodas across these 104 square kilometers, with as many as 2,200 still standing. Bagan is undoubtedly the poster child of “the land of pagodas.”
Coasting at cloud level may be the best way to soak in Bagan’s transcendental landscape, although being ferried from temple to temple by horse cart isn’t bad either. Up close, Bagan’s pagodas range from hulking Ananda complex, with symmetrical prayer halls and iridescent golden spires to quaint brick stupas, often with horses grazing nearby and nimble hawkers selling wooden puppets dressed in silks, painted umbrellas, colourful bags and longyis. I also visit the city’s excellent artisan workshops, where lacquer ware is an institution. At Ever Stand (everstandlacquerware.com), a family-run operation, artisans demonstrated the process, molding coiled bamboo and horsehair and coating it with thit-si tree resin and finally polishing it with wood ash. Traditionally, lacquer masters are men, but Black Elephant (blackelephantlacquer.com) is one of the few spots run by women. MBoutik (Anawratha Rd., Nyaung-U), a social enterprise works with village-based women’s cooperatives, producing fabulous handicrafts, including rattan baskets and rugs, hand-woven cottons and clothing, toys and gorgeous stone jewelry. Although the Irrawaddy River and a ribbon of alluvial farmland marks Bagan’s western boundary, the town falls within the rain shadow of Myanmar’s dry zone, endowing the landscape with a nostalgic, sepia-tinged aura. Bagan is crisscrossed with meandering dirt paths that connect homes and lead to
f r o m l e f t : G u y B r ow n / A l a m y Sto c k P h oto ; Da n i s h M u n ja l / E y e Em / g e t t y i m ag es . o p p o s i t e f r o m l e f t : M J P h oto g r a p h y / A l a m y Sto c k P h oto
Glimpses of the Irrawaddy dolphins.
The Red Mountain Estate Vineyard.
Sweeping views at Sofitel Inle Lake Myat Min.
neighbourhood pagodas. At dusk, monks chant and locals arrive to light candles and incense. In these hidden corners, Bagan glistens like gold. The rhythmic pounding of hammers and swirling flecks of gold dust invoke a magical scene as I stroll through a knot of narrow alleys in Mandalay’s old quarter. I stumble into a neighbourhood filled with dozens of home-based workshops, where muscular men hammer pebble-sized pieces of gold into thin sheets of gold leaf. This two-block area, I learn, supplied the nation with most of the gold leaf for its golden pagodas. Mandalay may be known for its dust and din, but this city is surprisingly charming. Countless local bazaars, including the mind-boggling Zey Cho Market, sell a hodgepodge of exotic gems, jewelry, handicrafts, spices from the far corners of the nation. At Mahar Aung Myay’s centuries-old jade market, above-board and bootleg traders and buyers haggle over the precious gems. My favourite bazaar is an hour away in Amarapura. Most head to the former royal city to walk across U Bein, the world’s oldest and longest teak bridge, but I ogle its exquisite silk and brocade markets. In cozy, home-based workshops, expert weavers turn out stunning luntaya acheik or the 100-shuttle weave, longyis, a coveted pattern worn for important social and ceremonial rituals. Local teahouses—a Mandalay institution—also pay tribute to the city’s multiculturalism. Hankering for a good espresso or fresh juice? Seek out the cool colonial interiors of Classic City Tea Saloon or the contemporary digs at Tea Generation. In Mandalay, the Irrawaddy steals my heart. I spend hours on the waterfront watching dockworkers haul fish, rice, sugarcane, bricks, ceramics and even TVs on and off old-fashioned wooden barges. An excursion with Living Irrawaddy (burmadolphins.com) brings me up close with the river’s endangered dolphins. By dusk, the last rays of sunlight cast a golden light. Dolphins, boats, nets
and pagodas shimmer on the river, and finally, I feel part of “The Land of Golden Pagodas.” As my trip draws to an end, I can’t help but wonder what lies in store for this embattled nation and its creative, resilient people. When it’s time to leave, I don’t want to go. The fortuneteller’s premonition came true. I find myself in a house of gold and am spellbound.
Where to Stay Pullman Yangon Centrepoint In the heart of the colonial quarter, with stunning views of Sule Pagoda’s golden paya and Maha Bandola Park. accorhotels.com; rooms from US$100. Grand Mercure Yangon Golden Empire This 175-room hotel keys its design on local culture—look no further than the handpainted ceiling inspired by the region’s gems. accorhotels.com; rooms from US$96. Novotel Yangon Max Close to all things cultural, the hotel uses contemporary design and modern accessories to provide guests with a break
from the city outside. accorhotels.com; rooms from US$99. Sofitel Inle Lake Myat Min A dreamy boutique resort surrounded by rice paddies and floating gardens, all with lakefront access. accorhotels.com; luxury room with breakfast US$160. Mercure Mandalay Hill Resort The gilded teakwood suites here are the place to stay in Mandalay. Perched at the base of the 230meter Mandalay Hill, the atmospheric grounds and rooms offer a birds-eye view of the temple dotted landscape and the slow-moving Irrawaddy. accorhotels.com; rooms from US$122.
tr av el andleisure asia .com / june 2019
97
br ands
ibis Styles Bangkok Khaosan Viengtai, Thailand.
ibis Styles Hobart, Australia.
Ibis Styles Multiple Styles & Storytelling Design Each hotel has a story to tell that is spread over the client experience to increase brand preference. Family Offer Kids corner, suited menus, puericulture equipment, family rooms, etc. Sweet Bed by ibis Styles The best sleeping experience on the market in terms of technology, design, product & price/quality ratio. Heartists of the Happy Mood ibis Styles’ promise is to anticipate guests’ needs and to create moments of unexpected joy that will feed their happy mood.
some of our finest: ibis Styles Bali Petitenget, Indonesia; ibis Styles Hobart, Australia; ibis Styles Bangkok Khaosan Viengtai, Thailand
98
june 2019 / tr av el andleisure asia .com
ACCOR LOGO
C=10 M=25 J=65 N=10
Nº dossier : 18J3476 Date : 9/11/18 Validation DA/DC : Validation Client :
Live Limitless
Hospitality ‒ can it be reimagined? To us, it’s an art that knows no bounds ‒ it sparks infinite inspired moments, whether you want to Live, Work, or Play. To unlock life lived limitless, we’ve created
IN THE NETWORK Almost
IN THE PIPELINE
a holistic lifestyle ecosystem, and the innovative solutions to power it
4,800
704,000
1,100
198,000
all. Because the future belongs to those who design it, and we’re here
Hotels
Rooms
Hotels
Rooms
to bring you there ‒ first.