SPRING 2019
A publication of It’s A Winederful Life
Buddhism speaks of four noble truths, which liberate one from suffering and comprise the Buddha’s teachings and the Buddhist path to enlightenment. Thankfully, the wines from Montepulciano – Vino Nobile – offer up their own kind of enlightenment and require only one, simple path: open, pour and enjoy! I first visited Montepulciano in December 2011. It was dark, cold and rainy (duh, it was December), but I fell in love with the town anyway. There to become better acquainted with the wines of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano for work purposes, I was sorry that I didn’t have more time to explore the steep, cobble-stone paths that wound their way around the town’s central square – Piazza Grande – home to the town hall and a cathedral. I enjoyed meeting a few producers, learning more about this historic wine and then it was on to the next town as we completed our quick tour of Tuscany on behalf of various consortiums. Fast forward nine years and my husband asked me if I wanted to join him in Montepulciano for a bike race. Well, he knew I had no interest in getting on a bike (I almost never do… at least not in the way he does), but the idea of returning to the town and getting to know it more leisurely was very appealing. So, I signed on to the trip and eagerly anticipated our visit. We found a wonderful two-bedroom apartment right in the heart of town, which meant that I had my independence and proximity to explore, plus it provided sufficient room to store the bike and all of his cycling gear. We knew that the week would be given over to two exploits: hubby’s biking and local wine. Montepulciano, whose name is derived from the Latin Mons and Publicianus ("Mount of Publicianus") is situated in Central Italy, in the region of Tuscany, province of Siena. Legend has it that the town was founded by the Etruscan King Porsenna, but whether that is true or not, archeological evidence does support a shared history with the Etruscans and the Romans. In fact, recent findings prove that a settlement was already in existence in the 4th-3rd centuries BCE. Additionally, the town’s history and wine have been intertwined from the beginning, as evidenced by a kylix featuring Bacchus having been found in an Etruscan tomb nearby. Given its strategic position – at a crossways of the main roads in the region – Montepulciano has always been an important asset. In ancient Rome, it was the seat of a garrison guarding the main roads of the area, while during medieval times, it was an ally and possession of Florence. However, by 1559, Siena had been conquered by Florence and Montepulciano lost its political role. Today, the medieval hilltop town, siting Southeast of Florence and Siena, is home to nearly 14,000 inhabitants and numerous tourist attractions. It is, of course, focused on wine and other agricultural pursuits. But, it is the town’s golden age during the Renaissance period (mid-16th century) which found many great architects working and living in the city: Antonio de Sangallo the Elder, Jacopo Barozzi da Vignola, Baldassarre Peruzzi, and Ippolito Scalza. These artists left a lasting legacy that still shows with palaces and churches that dazzle. Accordingly, this “pearl of the 16th century” is a great tourist town, perfect for a week away under the Tuscan sun.
Tempio di San Biagio â‚Ź 3.5 /person, includes an audio guide www.tempiosanbiagio.it Built in 518, on the site of a former church, Tempio di San Biagio lies just outside of town in a lush meadow. The site was chosen as a result of a vision had by a local woman. It was then designed by Antonio da Sangallo the Elder, who is most regarded for this project. The resulting building is a great example of High Renaissance architecture with its Greek cross plan.
On the day of our arrival, we landed at Fiumicino Airport in Rome, picked up our rental car and proceeded to drive to Montepulciano. The two-hour route took us out of Lazio, through Umbria, just past Orvieto, and then into Tuscany. As we drove closer, we caught glimpses of Montepulciano in the distance, like a medieval mirage, beckoning us closer. It was a thrill to be back after all of these years and I looked forward to a fabulous week.
leave the country; 78% of production finds its way to the international market, which is an increase from 2011, when only 59% was exported.
Today, the denomination comprises 16,500 hectares surface area, with 2,000 hectares of that area given over to vineyards. The majority of it (1,250 hectares) is earmarked for Vino Nobile, while another 390 hectares is designated for Rosso, resulting in annual production of 6 million bottles of Vino Nobile and another 2.5 million for Rosso (2018 figures). Most of these bottles
In celebration of its heritage and the harvest season, each August, the town hosts an annual event: Bravio delle Botti, which is similar to the Pallio in Siena in that each of the eight, medieval contrade (neighborhoods) compete against each other for the winning title. The teams must roll their 80kg wine barrel uphill, along a 1-kilometer route through the winding, steep streets to-
Vineyards are situated at an elevation ranging from 250-600 m in height, with an eclectic soil mix of sandy loam with clay, marl and silt. As elsewhere in Tuscany, the emphasis on the Sangiovese grape, specifically a local clone known as Prugnolo Gentile. The wines must comprise a minimum of 70% of Sangiovese and Vinously, Montepulciano gives its name to Vino Nobile di Mon- must be aged for a minimum of 2 years, with one to one and half tepulciano, a wine which has been famous for centuries, as evi- years spent in wood. Riserva wines must spend three years madenced by a 789 docuturing, with an additionment, referred to by al six months in bottle Emanuele Repetti in before release. During 1350. In 1685, poet my 2011 visit, new oak Francesco Redi praised had replaced old casks, the wine highly, noting but there seems to be a that “Montepulciano is return to older, large of all wines the king”. oak more recently. With time, Montepulciano’s reputation for its The remainder of the wines continued to blend can include Cagrow and the wine was naiolo Nero; Colorino, also favorably menwhich adds color and tioned by Voltaire, structure to Sangiovese Alexandre Dumas and without aroma; and Thomas Jefferson. Mammolo, so named for its heavily perfumed, However, it wasn’t fragrance of violets (the until 1930, that the Italian word for violet is term Vino Nobile was mammole). Both Caberinvented by Adamo net Sauvignon and MerFanetti of Cantina Fanlot are also permitted, etti. Prior to that, the but the trend has been to wines were called Vino use less international Rosso scelto di Mongrapes. These current tepulciano. Several production requirements decades later, in 1966, date to 2010; previousthe formal denominaly, as in Chianti, the tion was delineated, wines could include and the zone has rewhite grape varieties in mained unchanged the blend. This is now since then. Initially established as a DOC, it was promoted to forbidden. DOCG level in 1980. And, in 1989, the Rosso di Montepulciano denomination was created for earlier maturing wines, produced Viticulturally, the focus has been on sustainable agriculture as a from the same grapes. Interestingly, present day producers take rule. Currently, the consorzio members are trying to earn Equalidifferent approaches when crafting their Rosso wines, which tas certification with more than 70% of the wineries on board. speaks to the varying philosophies about it, but it was underThese efforts have included solar power, water recovery and low scored that this is a different wine, not a lesser wine, per se. impact farming.
ward the finish in the Piazza Grande. Despite Vino Nobile’s long history, it is not as well-known as its Tuscan neighbors, namely Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino. Some of this can be attributed to its small production as it is only onetenth the size of Chianti Classico. And, while similar, stylistically, it is a slightly warmer production zone than Chianti Classico, resulting in fuller bodied, higher alcohol wines that are generally densely colored, dark ruby and more tannic than their Chianti counterparts. Unfortunately, this relative obscurity is compounded by its confusion with Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano comes from the town of Montepulciano whereas Montepulciano d’Abruzzo refers to the Montepulciano grape variety from the Italian region of Abruzzo. Regardless, these are beautiful, well-made wines worth seeking out. Moreover, touristically, the area is well suited for vinous visitors. The consorzio, which represents 90% of the vineyards, established a stunning Enoliteca del Consorzio in 2016 to mark the 50 th anniversary of the wine. Housed in an ancient fortress of Montepulciano, a glass floor permits patrons to see the archeological findings — Etruscan and Ro-
man artifacts — that lie underneath them while they sip, swirl and savor Montepulciano’s wines. Visitors can purchase rechargeable cards to use at wine dispensers located around the room, with 100 wines available for tasting daily. Open Monday to Sunday, 11:00 AM – 7:00 PM; enolitercavinonobile.it As a walled city, fortified against invaders, Montepulciano had been a self-sufficient place for its inhabitants. Given this need to remain within the town limits, numerous wine cellars were built throughout the municipality, many of which still exist today. Accordingly, there are tastings and tours right at hand, no travel needed. [I visited Crociani, Contucci and Talosa.] And, for those who do wish to venture further afield, the Nobile Bike project offers a unique way to visit the local wineries. Created in collaboration with the Consorzio, Urban Bikery will rent you an e-bike and provides virtual reality tools via an app on your smartphone to make it easy to take a tour of the vineyards.
VINO NOBILE di MONTEPULCIANO VINTAGE RATINGS
2017: 2016: 2015: 2014: 2013: 2012: 2011: 2010: 2009: 2008: 2007:
We had the pleasure of visiting the Enotecolita with Silvia Loriga of the Vino Nobile Consorzio, who provided us with a lovely line up of wines to more fully acquaint us with the region’s wines as we explored recent vintages from a variety of older and newer producers.
Gattavecchi Owned by Luca and Gionata Gattavecchi, this winery is ensconced in a historic cantina situated within an Etruscan grotto. The Gattavecchis acquired the historic winery in 1996, which already had a positive reputation. They previously bought their grapes, but have since purchased land and now grow their own fruit. Vino Nobile 2016 Aromas of earth and clay greet the nose, while the structured, fullbodied palate offers up medium acidity, angularity and flavors of plum, spice, and a hint of woodiness, culminating in long length. It needs time in bottle to develop.
Godiolo Owned by Franco Fiorini, Godiolo was founded in 2000. Located in the southern part of the area, the small winery’s scant 2.5 hectares feature 40 year old vines that are certified organic. A wine tasting restaurant is situated on the premises. Rosso di Montepulciano 2014 Very herbal on the nose, this is lighter bodied, with dark fruits, medium+ acidity, slight tannic grip and long length.
Icario Founded in 1999, Icario is owned by Helmut Rothenberger, who runs 100 operational companies around the world. The property features an art gallery. Rosso di Montepulciano 2016 A blend of Sangiovese and Canaiolo Nero, this wine was decidedly earthy with medium+/high acidity, some tannic grip, fresh plum and bright cherry, an earthy undercurrent and long length. I really liked this wine!
Il Conventino Il Conventino comprises 50 acres and was one of the first wineries in the region to be certified as organic. Vino Nobile 2014 Leafy aromas and red fruits dominate the nose and persist on the dry, palate, which displays medium+ acidity, firm tannins, fresh cherries and berries and long length.
La Ciarliana Following in the footsteps of his grandfather and father, Luigi Frangiosa founded La Ciarliana in 1996, which has 20 hectares of vineyards. In addition to being the owner, he serves as winemaker, agronomist and export manager. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2015 This wine displays wet earthy and leafy notes on the nose, giving way to a very intense and concentrated palate with firm tannins and flavors of plum, blackberry and a very earthy undercurrent. La Combarbia This farm was initially established in the 1960s by Novilio Mariani, dedicated to production of wine. In 2016, Novilio’s nephew, Gabriele Florio, left his job as a carpenter to take over the company. His aim is to not only continue, but also to renew the venture. Fittingly, the winery’s name translates as crossroads and also comes from a local expression “let’s go to combarbia,” which means: Let’s have a fun evening with wine and good company! Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2016 Classic tomato leaf along with notes of earth, plum, fresh cherries, herbs and a hint of menthol on the nose, culminating in long length.
Dei Founded in 1985, this winery is owned by the Dei family. They have 50 hectares under vine and focus on low yields. They recently built an underground cellar in the shape of a shell, which features renewable geothermal energy and is made of travertine. NB: Wine tasted at a restaurant; no notes.
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has been said that wine is bottled poetry. Perhaps, it is an ode to those we love. For Susanna Crociani, wine has been just that. She originally launched herself in a career in music management, living in Rome. Meanwhile, her brother, Giorgio, followed into the family business, joining Azienda Agricola Crociani, the winery which had been established in 1955 by their father, Arnaldo Crociani. However, when Arnaldo passed away 20 years ago, Susanna returned to Tuscany to help her brother run the winery. They worked side by side for 12 years, until Giorgio’s death. Today, Susanna keeps brother and father close to her heart by keeping the business running. As a Vino Nobile producer, Crociani makes Rosso, Vino, Riserva and the traditional dessert wine, Vinsanto di Montepulciano. However, she also crafts two special wines that pay tribute to her family: Rosso d’Arnaldo and Il Segretto di Giorgio. The former wine was originally created by her father and is made with grapes he planted back in the 1960s. The latter, Giorgio’s Secret, was initially developed by Giorgio as an easy drinking, fresh wine and continues to be produced in his honor, with a rainbow on the label to keep his spirit alive. While the winery and vineyards are located outside the town’s walls, the wines are aged and stored in 14th century cellars right in the heart of Montepulciano. In a nod to her previous career (and continued love of music), each wine barrel is named for a female opera character. TASTING NOTES Rosso di Montepulciano 2017 Susanna produces 20,000 bottles of Rosso di Montepulciano annually. A blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo Nero and Mammolo, the grapes are sourced from her youngest vineyards, which are harvested about two weeks earlier than the grapes for her Vino Nobile. This early harvest date ensures that the wine will have less sugar, lighter body and be good with food due to its higher acidity. The wine is then aged for six months in oak barrels. They can generally age for 4-6 years. The 2017 season, which brought with it a hot summer with no rain, resulted in a 23% decrease in yield. With aromas of plum, spice and a hint of oak, this wine offers up ripe, grippy tannins; good freshness; with spice and plum flavor, on the dry, medium-bodied palate, culminating in long length.
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2016 As Crociani’s flagship wine, production is doubled to 40,000 bottles. It is produced from the same blend as the Rosso (Sangiovese with Canaiolo Nero and Mammolo), but made from higher quality, older vineyards coupled with longer aging, as required by law. Susanna bottles this wine on January 13 every year, which is her brother’s birthday. Aged for 24 months in oak barrels, plus two months in bottle, once released, the wines can develop for 12-15 years. Deeper, darker nose with plum, black cherry and violets, giving way to the dry palate with high acidity, medium+ body, firm ripe tannins, and distinct floral notes (from Mammolo) and long length. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2015 The 2015 vintage provided excellent growing conditions, resulting in fantastic wines. This is really lovely with aromas and flavors of plum, woody, spice, floral. The dry palate offers up firm, yet smooth and silky, ripe tannins, bright acidity and long length. Rosso d’Arnaldo 2017 IGT Toscana Created by Susanna’s father, Arnaldo Crociani, this wine is a blend of 60% Prugnolo Gentile, 15% Canaiolo Nero, 15% Mammolo, 5% Colorino and 5% Pulcinculo from a vineyard planted in the 1960s. It spends 18 months in oak barrels. Aromas of black plum and black berries pervade with a slightly sweet notenote on nose. The palate is dry, yet ripe and fresh, with bramble fruit, a slight tannic grip and long length Il Segretto di Giorgio IGT Toscana A blend of Fogliotondo and Sangiovese Grosso, this wine was first developed by Susanna’s brother, Giorgio. She carries on his tradition in producing it and chose to feature a rainbow on the label to keep his spirit alive and well. Delicious aromas of red and forest fruits, red raspberries and cherries are repeated on the palate, joined by bright acidity, intensity, concentration and long length.
Vinsanto di Montepulciano This traditional wine is produced from Malvasia del Chianti, Pulcinculo (Grechetto Bianco) and Trebbiano grapes, which are harvested by hand in October. They choose the best bunches, dry them on reed mats for four months, then press the (now) raisins, placing the juice in small, chestnut barrels (100 L), called caratelli, that includes 10% of sediment from previous vintages. Fermentation takes place within the barrel. The legal minimum aging is three years, but Susanna ages hers for five years, kept in the vinsantaia during this time. Pronounced aromas of caramel, spice and burnt orange dominate the nose, while the medium sweet palate displays vibrant acidity, as the sweetness melts away, replaced by flavors of nuts, figs, and walnuts in the long finish. Once opened, the wine will keep for six to seven months or, if kept closed, it can last for 100 years.
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first met Andrea Contucci during that initial Montepulciano visit. At that time, he graciously hosted us at his winery, which is situated right on the Piazza Grande and gave us a glimpse of his family’s historic palace. We had the pleasure of reconnecting with Andrea during this recent trip, who once again welcomed us with open arms into his home and winery. Nearly synonymous with the region and its wines, the Contucci family has been in the area since the 11 th century. During the 16th century, their palace was built by Antonio da Sangallo the Elder, the same architect who built Tempio di San Biagio. Within the palace, the ceilings of the Festival Salon were frescoed by Father Andrea Pozzo, a Jesuit architect. This stunning ceiling was commissioned for a family wedding between the house of Contucci and another noble family. Around this same time, the Contucci’s began to cultivate grapes, eventually becoming one of the founding families of Vino Nobile as evidenced in documents dated from 1773. By the 1700s, Contucci was a well known producer of the wine and the family had earned numerous awards by the 1800s. Given its heritage and longevity, today, Contucci is the only full winery in the center of town; their facility includes not just barrel cellars, but the entire winemaking process. Obviously, the grapes are grown outside the city walls, with 170 hectares of land owned by Contucci, 21 of which are planted to vines. Within the planted acreage, there are two single vineyards: the western-located, sandy, volcanic soils of the 1-hectare, Mulinvecchio and, in the east, the red clay of Pietra Rosso (2 hectares). Contucci’s vineyards are only planted with native varieties. Most of the vines are devoted to the production of Vino Nobile, with a small percentage earmarked just for Rosso di Montepulciano and a small bit for the white, vin santo and a special Rosso del Sansovino. Total production stands at 100,000 bottles annually.
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pietra Rossa 2015 With 80% Prugnolo Gentile, 10% Canaiolo Nero and 10% Colorino sourced solely from the Pietra Rossa vineyard, this wine is initially aged for 30 months in wood, followed by eight to ten months in bottle. Planted in the 1980s on red clay soil, this vineyard is high in iron, which is good for Sangiovese. Produced in a traditional style, this wine is aged longer than the Classico with an additional six months oak. Dominated by an earthy nose, the palate offers up flavors of plum and earth, with firm, structured tannins and long length.
To mark the occasion of its 500th anniversary, the winery crafted a special wine, Palazzo Contucci 2013, a blend of grapes from the two single vineyards, with Riserva-level aging. While the 2013 vintage was intended to be the only iteration of this wine, it was very well received and they are now making it annually, with the label changing each year, to display yet another image of the Contucci Palazzo. Fortunately, with 500 years of history, the family has a deep archives of images from which to choose.
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Mulinvecchio 2014 Production is very similar to that of the Pietra Rossa, but the 80% Prugnolo Gentile, 10% Canaiolo Nero and 10% Colorino grapes come from the Mulinvecchio Alto vineyard. Juicier, with riper fruit, the dry and tannic palate displays notes of plum, tomato leaf and lots of spice, culminating in long length. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Palazzo Contucci 2014 The second vintage of the newly created anniversary wine, the Palazzo Contucci is presently only available at the winery. However, as of the 2015 vintage, it will be more commercially available. Intense and concentrated, with ripe, yet restrained fruit, ripe tannins, spice, red and black fruit, beautifully balanced and long length. As Andrea proudly noted, they created a wine that remains true to Contucci philosophy. This limited production wine features a serial number on the back label.
With his family’s extensive history and his own tenure in the industry, Andrea is keenly aware of the changes that have been made, some of which he applauds and others that he doesn’t. In particular, he lamented the loss of the white grapes, having tasted Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2013 old vintages in which they were not only permitted, but required The 80% Prugnolo Gentile, 15% Canaiolo Nero and 5% Colorino to make up 15% of the blend. grapes all came from Contucci’s higher altitude vineyards in the production of this Riserva-level wine. It was aged for 36 months in wood, with an additional 12 months in bottle. Contucci only TASTING NOTES makes Riserva in 4-star and 5-star vintages. The 2013 Riserva Rosso di Montepulciano 2016 wine is one capable of long aging; it can go 50 years. It is powerBringing together 80% Prugnolo Gentile, 15% Canaiolo Nero ful and structured, with a dry palate, ripe, resolved tannins, plum, and 5% Colorino, this wine is aged in wood for 6 to 8 months. spice, earth and slight dried herbs, elegant and complex, with Contucci does maintain some of vineyards – those at lower altilong length. tudes – only for the production of Rosso di Montepulciano, but generally, this wine is produced as a second selection after the grapes are selected for Vino Nobile. Notes of plum, red fruit and slight herbal dominate the nose, giving way to a dry palate, with fresh, bright red fruit, slight dusty tannins, a hint of leafiness in the finish and long length. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2015 A blend of 80% Prugnolo Gentile, 10% Canaiolo Nero and 10% Colorino, this wine spent 24 months in wood and another six to eight months in bottle before release. At nearly 40,000 bottles, this wine accounts for over half of Andrea’s production. Hailing from the vaunted 2015 vintage —one of the best vintages in the past 20 years—this wine has 15 years aging potential. It is dry, yet rich and concentrated, with firm tannins, medium+ body, good structure, flavors of plum, leafiness and spice, and long length.
Vin Santo di Montepulciano 2006 Contucci produces a traditional vin santo with white grapes, namely 40% Malvasia del Chianti, 40% Grechetto and 20% Trebbiano, selected from various vineyards. The grapes are dried for at least three months and then crushed in January before the juice is transferred to the 70L caratelli for fermentation with the mother (madre) and aging in the same barrel for about ten years. Over time, there is a 20% reduction in volume due to evaporation, hence only a small quantity (1200-1500 bottles) is produced. Deep in color, with aromas and flavors of honey, spice, burnt sugar, orange, the medium sweet palate provides bright, balanced acidity. The wine is not syrupy at all and culminates in long length.
A Tour of Talosa
Taking its name from that of a local district, Talosa produces 100,000 bottles per year. The winery was founded in 1972 and is presently owned by Jacorossi Angelo, an entrepreneur from Rome. Talosa has 32 hectares of vineyards, with its main barrel-aging cellar located within the old walls of the town between two palazzi. The cellar is open for tastings and self-guided tours. TASTING NOTES Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2016 Produced from 100% Sangiovese, this wine offers up aromas of plum and smoke, with a dry, medium+-bodied palate of rich, ripe, concentrated red fruit; with firm, ripe tannins; a slight earthy undercurrent and long length. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2014 This 100% Sangiovese wine presents with darker fruit, more smoke, grainy tannins, with a fuller-bodied palate, good acidity, elegance and long length. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Filai Lunghi 2015 Aged in new casks, this wine is made from a top selection of 100% Sangiovese grapes, with notes of plum, cherry and a hint of smoke. It is very tannic, richer and riper than the other wines, very structured, with less acidity, more overt oak and similarly long length. Needs time for the tannins to soften. Pietrose 2013, Toscana Rossa IGT Intended to be a Super-Tuscan style wine, Pietrose is produced from 100% Merlot and spends 24 months in French oak casks. It displays aromas of smoke and coffee, with a full-bodied palate, medium acidity and long length. Grappa di Vinacce di Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Nicely smooth, very floral, no alcoholic burn, with long length.
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We had the good fortune to dine all around town one scrumptious plate (and glass) at a time. We highly recommend the following restaurants: •
Ristorante La Grotta
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La Bottega del Nobile
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Osteria del Conte
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Pane Vino & Zucchero
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Caffè Poliziano
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Enoteca La Dolce
Wines with F
Colle Ciocco
Friends:
first met Francesca Spachetti at a wine lunch in New York. We became fast friends and five years ago, we had the distinct pleasure of being welcomed into her and husband, Lamberto,’s home, life and winery during our visit to Umbria. Thus, we were eager to meet up with them once again while in Italy. We made arrangements to visit them at the winery in Montefalco on a Friday afternoon and were warmly greeted by the pair. They welcomed us with wine, food and charm and the half-decade absence all but disappeared. After the tasting, they gifted us a bottle of wine and Francesca treated us to gelato in town; they are truly gracious hosts and friends! So much so, in fact, that we were afraid to ask about buying a bottle of Lamberto’s olive oil, so we literally snuck back into town to pick up a bottle from the local store.
TASTING NOTES Clarignano 2017, Umbria Bianco A blend of 50% Viognier, 40% Grechetto and 10% Chardonnay, this wine displays lovely floral and pear aromas with a dry and fresh palate of ripe pear fruit, floral/white flowers, good depth and long length. Montefalco Bianco 2017 Another white blend, this one brings together Trebbiano Spoletino (70%), Viognier (20%)and Chardonnay (10%). Slightly floral, with more overt tropical notes on the nose, this wine presents a fuller-bodied palate with flavors of pear and apricot. It is less acidic than the Clarignano, yet still fresh, with long length. Tempestivo 2018 With only 2,000 bottles made, this small production white features the Trebbiano Spoletino variety on its own. Less fruity in character, it is angular, with bright acidity, lovely minerality and long length. Brixio Rosato 2017 A relatively recent addition to the line-up, this rosÊ, which has gotten lots of positive feedback, is comprised of 70% Sangiovese and 30% Sagrantino. Notes of floral, berries and cherries greet the nose and persist on the dry palate with ripe fruit, very herbaceaous characteristics, medium body and good structure due to the Sagrantino grapes. Montefalco Rosso 2015 At a production of 20,000 bottles, this wine makes up the majority of Colle Ciocco’s production. A blend of 70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino and 15% Merlot, it spends one year in oak and two years in bottle before release. It offers up aromas of spice, floral, raspberry and cherry. The dry palate has good acidity, with fresh cherries, raspberries, spice and floral notes, medium ripe tannins and long length. Montefalco Sagrantino 2014 Made solely from Sagrantino and aged for 18 months in French oak, this wine has an intense, concentrated nose of black and red fruit, licorice and spice. The full-bodied palate gives firm tannins, medium acidity, and flavors of spice, licorice, black and red fruits and a hint of dried herbs, with very long length. It needs time to age to come into its own, but I absolutely love it! Montefalco Sagrantino Passito 2011 Only 3,000 bottles of this delicious dessert-style wine are produced annually. Aged for 36 months in bottle, it offers up aromas of cocoa, chocolate and cherry. The medium-sweet palate displays beautiful balance with good acidity and flavors of spice, cocoa, chocolate and berries, culminating in long length. Grappa di Sagrantino One of two grappas that they produce, this one only spends time in stainless steel, after having been distilled by the Berta distillery in Piedmont.
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The Passion of Il Poggione
I first became acquainted with famed Brunello producer, Il Poggione, when I visited Montalcino in 2011. I later had the opportunity to taste a selection of Il Poggione wines with Alessandro Bindocci while he was in New York visiting the market in 2017. So, I was delighted when I received an invitation to visit the estate during our Tuscan trip. It was a pleasure to see Alessandro again, this time on his home turf. About an hour nearly due west of Montepulciano, the town of Montalcino presides over its own Sangiovese-based wines. Named for the hill (monte) of oak trees (leccio) found growing there, Montalcino held an equally strategic location as Montepulciano with its elevation high above the Via Francigena (the road than ran between France and Rome). From this vantage point, the inhabitants could easily see who was traveling along on the road. However, whereas Montepulciano was aligned with Florence during the Middle Ages, Montalcino was allied with Siena. Montalcino is an older city than Montepulciano and was an independent municipality, until 1559 when it became a Medici possession; it remained part of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany until Italy was unified in 1861. Vinously, Brunello di Montalcino is a square-shaped region comprising 24,000 hectares, roughly 15% of which are vineyards. It is home to four rivers and valleys. Historically, the wine was mentioned in a document as early as 715. However, modern winemaking in Montalcino formally dates to the DOC first established in 1966 and then promoted to DOCG in 1980,. Yet the roots of this wine go back to the 1800s when Clemente Santi began to define the local wine as being one produced from 100% Sangiovese and aged for a long period of time in oak. His grandson, Ferruccio Biondi Santi, built upon Clemente’s initial work, establishing strict production standards and isolating a particular clone of Sangiovese, locally called Brunello. Compared with other Tuscan wine regions, Montalcino sits between the sea and the center of Italy, resulting in the hottest and driest area of Tuscany. Here, there is less rain, but still some sea influence of cool breezes, resulting in tannic wines, with good acidity, capable of long aging. Il Poggione was founded by the Francesci family in the 1800s, when Lavinio Francesci, a wealthy Florentine landowner, purchased property near Montalcino after hearing of the land’s potential from a local shepherd. Inspired by what he heard, he went to check it out for himself and bought the land. Apparently, shepherds make good real estate agents! The Francesci family remained in the region, growing grapes and making wine. eventually becoming one of the founding families of the denomination. At 700,000 bottles per year, it is the 3rd largest producer in region and, today, the winery is still family owned with the fifth generation of the Francesci family currently at the company’s helm. The well-diversified (home to extensive olive groves, grain fields, livestock, cover crops, and produce), self-sufficient estate comprises 1,500 acres of land, with 300 of them planted to vineyards. Everything is done by hand, with 80 people on staff to make that happen. The guiding principle is a meticulous attention to the vineyards, with modernized agricultural methods and an overarching focus on quality.
The same painstaking attention that is paid to the vineyards has been equally lavished on the winery, which was built in 2004. The emphasis was on optimizing work via carefully thought out design. For example, custom tanks were designed with a mesh filter within tank to keep the cap fully submerged; an extra jacket on the tank to control temperature more precisely; and a very gentle pump over is used to avoid over-extraction. The fermentation area is divided into two areas: one side has tanks for fermentation, while tanks for malolactic fermentation are kept on the other side. They don’t need to add any yeast; fermentation occurs on its own naturally, as does malolactic fermentation. Most importantly, the technological investment in the winery permits all of the work to be completed by only three to four people in winery, ensuring that there are more people available for work in the vineyard. In a similarly elegant fashion, below, in the cellars, pipes in false columns use gravity to bring wine from tank to barrel. The winery’s careful oak management extends to its decision to season its own oak and then assemble the barrels themselves, rather than sourcing them directly from a cooper. Further, in an effort in be sustainable, the barrels are kept for 20 years and shaved every five years. After that, the wood is recycled into floor boards (see staircase image, right) and other non-wine uses. Moreover, the winery has been fully solar-powered for the past several years. Green efforts also apply outside the winery as Il Poggione propagates its own vines with its own unique clones of Sangiovese and practices sustainable agriculture. TASTING NOTES Brancato Rosato 2018 Interestingly, the first vintage of this wine was 2008, right before rosé really took off, but the winery is now wellpoised to compete in this market. The name Brancato stems from a horse painting done by family member that proudly hangs at the winery and translates as out of the ordinary. The Sangiovese grapes are harvested early to maintain their acidity and then the juice spends less than 24 hours on the skins, resulting in a beautifully, fresh wine with a pale pink hue. On the nose, it is very herbal, with bright raspberry aromas. The palate is dry, with good concentrated fruit, very food friendly, structured and intense, long length. Rosso di Toscana 2017 While not a new wine, the Rosso di Toscana was just brought to the U.S. market. It was originally made as an unoaked Sangiovese, but is now Sangiovese blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Aromas of dark red fruit, a hint of herbs and coffee greet the nose, while the dry, medium+-bodied palate offered up firm, ripe textural tannins, with bright acidity, fresh red, explosive fruit and long length. The wine can take a chill and is a great option for a summer red!
Rosso di Montalcino 2017 The grapes for this wine are sourced from vines that are at least 15 years old. It has been aged for one year, with a small percentage in barriques, the remainder in big barrels. A deep nose, with a powerful, dry palate, with good acidity; very structured, ripe tannins; notes of black plum and herbs, culminating in long length. Brunello di Montalcino 2014 While the rules require a minimum of two years aging, Il Poggione opts to exceed those requirements and ages their Brunellos for three years. The grapes for this wine come from vineyards that are at least 25 years old. Additionally, because 2014 was a more challenging vintage, the grapes that are usually set aside for the Riserva level wines went into this classic level Brunello. This wine presented with aromas of cherries, herbs, slight wood and spice, giving way to a dry palate with bright acidity, lush cherry and plum fruit flavors, angular structure, a slight woody note, firm tannins and long length. It is best at six to eight years, but can go much longer.
Terlato’s CRU Collection: A Circle of Burgundian Friends
ike many people in the wine industry, John Terlato, Vice Chairman of Terlato Wines, is passionate about Burgundy. When Terlato Wines initially purchased Sanford Winery and its vineyards in Santa Barbara, California in 2002, John was strongly advised to look to Burgundy for information and inspiration as they embarked on this new Chardonnay and Pinot Noir venture.
the experience will influence the way he does things going forward, since it is difficult to ignore what you have learned.
Among other things that John has gleaned from his Burgundian friends is the concept that vines can be classified as either introverts or extroverts and, by understanding which vines are which, one can best manage the vines to produce their highest quality. Accordingly, extroverted vines need more attention, while introverted vines should be left alone. He has since adopted this phiHe took the advice to heart and traveled to Burgundy in search of losophy to other vines, which compliments his focus on making great wine. Of course, he was not disappointed, but, equally im- wines of place instead of wines of taste. portant, he discovered great people. He returned to the U.S. not only with new knowledge that he was able to impart at Sanford, John himself is an extrovert, which comes across in his warm, but also with a circle of new friends. generous approach to life and to people. But, he doesn’t want to interact just for the sake of interacting; in his words, “the ideal Over time, these friendships have continued to grow and blosdinner party is made up of more than the [three] Graces and less som and it is from this collection of great people that John has than the [nine] Muses,” giving him the opportunity to have now assembled a collection of world-class Burgundy wines, meaningful conversations with a variety of people over the which he is importing under Terlato Wines’ CRU Selections course of a delicious meal and a glass of wine. division. The portfolio includes an impressive array of Who’s Who in Burgundy, but John stresses that he wants to work with In February 2019, Terlato hosted a tasting of a subset of the Cru friends, not all Burgundy producers. Selections portfolio, including: Domaine Michel Niellon, Chateau de la Tour, Domaine Pierre Label and Domaine Ramonet. It And, such friendships have also resulted in joint projects such as was truly an impressive tasting and an absolute treat to taste the wine he recently made with Chateau de la Tour at Sanford some of these very limited wines. And a welcome reminder as to Winery, bringing together California Pinot Noir, with Burgundi- why people are so passionate about Burgundy! an expertise. He enjoyed the project very much and admits that
TASTING NOTES Domaine Michel Niellon This fourth-generation family affair is located in ChassagneMontrachet and produces the full range of wines from the basic Bourgogne appellation to Grand Crus, including Chevalier-Montrachet. The vineyards are managed using sustainable agriculture.
Domaine Ramonet The Ramonet family settled in Burgundy in the 19 th century and it was Pierre Ramonet, grandfather to the current owner, JeanClaude, who established the (now vaunted) domaine in 1935. While Domaine Ramonet produces both red and white wines, it is most known for its top Chadonnays. Today, Jean-Claud is joined in the business by his daughters Anne-France and Clarisse.
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Les Champgains” 2016 Rich, lovely, apple, woody, full bodied, long length.
Bougogne Aligote 2016 Beautifully fresh, round, soft ripe pear/peach, pith, slight tropical, long length.
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Clos de la Maltroie” 2016 Mineral, wet stone, fresh, mineral, apple, toothpick, very long length.
Puligny-Montrachet 2016 Slight nuttiness, apple, wood, nuts, rich and round, slight buttery note, long length.
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Les Vergers” 2006 Developing, rich, full body, mineral, caramel, waxy, peach, long length.
Chateau de la Tour Established in 1889 and situated in Vougeot, Chateau de la Tour is presently the largest landowner of the Clos-Vougeot Grand Cru, with a holding of 15 acres. The vines are farmed organically and the wines are aged in custom barrels. The estate’s Clos-Vougeot wines are typically produced from vineyards that average 65 years old, while those under the Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes (old vines) label are made from vines of a minimum of 100 years old. Chateau de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 2015 Intense and concentrated fruit, cherry, herbs, earth, very long length. Chateau de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 2007 Floral, red fruit, earthy and herbal, long length.
Domaine Pierre Labet This domaine dates back to the 15th century with its headquarters built on the battlements surrounding the city of Beaune. The Labet family itself also has a long history in the region, having been in Beaune for 500 years. The family’s holdings include 25 acres spread throughout different appellations, with all of the vineyards farmed organically since 1992. Beaune “Clos du Dessus des Marconnets” 2015 Lovely nose, spice, apple, full body, medium acidity, good length. Meursault “Les Tillets” 2015 Mineral, green apple, toothpick, nuts, rich and round, long length. Beaune “Clos du Dessus des Marconnets” 2015 Ripe, rich, fresh, herbal, cherry, wood, long length. Gevry-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2015 Ripe berry, cherry, herbal, earthy, fruit on palate, bright acidity, woody finish, long length.
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Boudriotte” 2016 Woody and apple on the nose, fresh, elegant and rich on the palate with apple, woodiness lingers in finish, long length. Chassagne-Montrachet “Les Ruchottes” 2014 Green apple, hint of oak, fresh acidity, full body, VERY long length. Bienvenue Batard-Montrachet 2001 Caramel, apple custard, good acidity, full body, caramel, butter, very long length. Wow!
amon ilbao reinvents Rioja, yet s
The familiar adage is “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it,” but when the Zamora family purchased the Ramon Bilbao company in 1999, they had other plans. Admittedly, they didn’t break what was working, but they did choose to expand the way that the company thought about its Riojas.
other words, when its namesake looks especially healthy!). Produced since 1999, the Mirto style has been a more structured wine, which is both fresh and elegant, driven more by fruit than oak influence. Of course, as noted, there was no reason to completely abandon the tried and true traditional Rioja, so Bastida continues to produce a Gran Reserva Originally founded by the Bilbao family, the Ramon Rioja under the Ramon Bilbao brand name, which Bilbao winery has been making wine in the heart of follows a more traditional production. In this regard, Rioja, since 1924. Situated in Haro, within the Rioja the Ramon Bilbao wine is aged for a longer period Alta subzone, the estate’s 180 hectares of vineyards of time (36 months) in American oak. Meanwhile, are influenced by both the Cantabrian Mountains the Mirto generally spends only 24 months in and an Atlantic Ocean climate influence, bringing French oak, utilizing a combination of barrels from fresh, dry winds and keeping humidity at bay. Here, different coopers. Bastida admits that it is a fun prosandy, yellow-colored soils are favored for their cess to create two separate styles of Rioja. high calcareous content, which is good for retaining acidity in Tempranillo, the key variety in Rioja. Among the other changes that Zamora has made has And, thanks to careful manual harvesting, vines are been a new-found focus on altitude and one on terable to live a long time, with 50-90-year-old Temroir. Specifically, in 2012 they turned their attention pranillo vines being a common occurrence. to exploring altitude and new vineyard areas to combat climate change. In this regard, their vineyards Upon making its purchase, Zamora brought in a new are located at 600 to 700 meters above sea level, winemaker, Rodolfo Bastida, a locally born and which might not be excessively high, but compared bred Spaniard who had been making wine elsewhere to other areas in Spain, it is. Then, in 2014, the winbefore landing at Ramon Bilbao. Among his first ery became more terroir driven as they sought out tasks in his new role was to make a Rioja that was a better parcels, which is a departure for a wine that is radical departure from tradition. Specifically, Bastraditionally a blend of areas. tida crafted a Rioja that was aged, not in traditional American oak, but rather, in French oak. During a special tasting for press and trade, participants had the opportunity to compare and contrast The thought process was to create a more modern, the traditional Ramon Bilbao Gran Reserva with the yet still true to its heritage, wine. Thus, Mirto was more modern Mirto. It was an exciting and illumiborn! Named for a local bush that grows wild in the nating experience to explore these two different area, when the Mirto bush looks healthy, it indicates styles of wine, both of which reflect the true nature that the vintage will be a good one. Not surprisingly, of Rioja wine. Mirto (the wine) is only made in great vintages (in
stays true to tradition TASTING NOTES Vina Turzaballa* Gran Reserva 1999 Produced from 100% Tempranillo and aged for 40 months in American oak, this is a typically classic, aged Rioja. It showed some bricking in the glass and some development on the nose, with notes of dried floral and dried fruit. On the palate, it was dry, with high acidity, nice evolution, faded fruit on palate, culminating in long length. It was my favorite wine of the tasting. *This wine is no longer produced and has been replaced with the Ramon Bilbao Gran Reserva
Mirto 2004 This 100% Tempranillo wine spent 24 months in French oak. It was brighter with fresher, yet darker (more black than red) fruit, showing some complexity and, in general, a more structured palate. It was my favorite of the Mirtos.
Ramon Bilbao Gran Reserva 2011 Bringing together 90% Tempranillo, 65 Graciano and 4% Mazuelo, this wine spent 26 months in American oak. It had a pronounced nose of strawberry and cherry aromas. The dry palate Mirto 1999 Also made from 100% Tempranillo, but aged for only 24 months was dominated by nice spice notes and firm tannins, and long length. in French oak, in comparison, this wine was almost youthful. There was much less evidence of age in both its color and on the nose. Aromas and flavors of strawberry and plum dominated the Mirto 2014 nicely structured palate, which offered up good acidity and long Made from 100% Tempranillo and aged for 19 months in French oak, this wine offered up very firm tannins and needs time to age. length. Dry, with bright acidity, angular, cherry, black cherry, long length. Ramon Bilbao Gran Reserva 2004 A blend of 90% Tempranillo, 7% Mazuelo and 3% Graciano, this wine was aged for 36 months in American oak. It displayed aromas of strawberry, vanilla, oak, slight floral, which persisted on These latter two wines need time to develop in bottle and soften the dry palate. Medium+ acidity, medium body, flavors of spice their tannins.ď‚– and leather, with long length.
OREGON’S OG WINES
ure, Oregon wines are fashionable now, but back in the 1970s, no one was planting grapes in the Willamette Valley. The area was filled with peach trees, walnuts and blackberries, as many of the vineyard block names at Sokol Blosser can attest. But, in the early part of that decade, three brave families ventured into the region with the deep conviction that this was a very special place in which to make great wine. These self-dubbed “Oregon Originals” – the Ponzi, Campbell and Sokol Blosser families – arrived relatively concurrently in a variety of vehicles ready to hit the ground running, with their kids: Luisa, Anna Maria, Adam (and his siblings), Alex and Allison in tow. As pioneers clearing the land and putting their faith in Pinot Noir, the three families would get together on a regular basis, sharing ideas and finding community with one another. Similarly, the children grew up as friends and remain so to this day. Back then, it was not chichi for your family to own a vineyard and the kids were often ridiculed by their peers and their parents called drunkards. Today, these “kids” are all grown up and have taken over the leadership of their family’s wineries, representing the second generation of Oregon wine producers. Their wineries remain committed to Pinot Noir and are still family owned. Similarly, they are all equally committed to being stewards of the land and the community and feel that it is important to work together. With this overarching philosophy, the three wineries, led by winemakers Luisa Ponzi (Ponzi VIneyards), Adam Campbell (Elk Cove) and Alex Sokol Blosser (Sokol Blosser), recently came together to collaborate on a special cuvée. Each winery contributed fruit from a single block of Pinot Noir, with each winemaker ultimately making three separate wines from the three different parcels of fruit. These nine wines then served as the components for the final blend. Members of the press and trade were invited to a special seminar to taste through these components in a true demonstration of “land versus hand.” Interestingly, the overwhelming consensus among the winemakers was that the best wines were those that had been produced using one’s own fruit, underscoring the importance of really understanding the grapes to create great wine. Not surprisingly, the finished wine, 2017 2GV Pinot Noir Cuvée, focused heavily on these three components. As a limited production wine (350 cases), 2GV was crafted primarily as a charitable effort, but is available online for purchase by the bottle, from the Ponzi Vineyards website.
NB: Purchase does not entail being a member of Ponzi’s wine club, and as I understand it, provided an adult is on hand to sign for and accept receipt, Ponzi can ship direct to consumers anywhere within the U.S.
It is a challenge to grow grapes and make wine. Fortunately, the Campanian people are a resilient bunch. They have continually overcome volcanoes, earthquakes and economic hardship. In particular, the word resilience holds significant meaning for Ilaria Petitto, CEO of Donnachiara winery. She heard it numerous times growing up in connection with her family’s metalwork business (the resilience of steel). The term is also apt given the resilience of the local people and, more currently, she is applying it to the potential for Falanghina to become well known and well respected, as Grillo has now become in Sicily. Accordingly, her flagship Falanghina is called Resilienza.
from the coastline keep the climate cool and green. Accordingly, harvest takes place from October through November while winemakers wait for the grapes to reach full ripeness. And, within this area, there are three DOCGs: Fiano d’Avellino, Greco di Tufo and Taurasi that reflect the region’s top wines. It is here that the Donnachiara winery is located, with an average vineyard elevation of 600 meters above sea level.
Although a handful of larger wineries dominate the vinous landscape, most wineries in Campania are small. This preponderance of tiny ventures makes it challenging to find common ground and promote the region as a whole, but with her recent appointment to Established in 2005 by Chiara Petitto (Ilara’s mother), Donnachi- the Consorzio, Ilaria is hoping to change that in time. As a mediara was named for her aunt Chiara Mazzarelli Petitto, who inum-sized winery, Donnachiara has some leverage to make its stilled a love of the land in her and was the inspiration for starting name in the market, but Ilaria recognizes that they will all be her own winery in 2005. As the Petitto family has been in the more successful if they can promote Campania as a single brand. region for more than 5 generations, cultivating vineyards and Thankfully, she has the resilience to persevere! making wine, this was a natural progression for the family. TASTING NOTES From the very beginning, Donnachiara has been focused on craft- Falanghina 2017, Beneventano Falanghina IGT, Campania Aromas of pear and lanolin; dry, rich and concentrated, with meing high quality wines from local grapes, which is apropos of a dium acidity, full body and long length. winery situated in Campania on Italy’s Southwestern coast. Despite perhaps being better known for the Amalfi Coast, NeapoliFiano 2017, Fiano di Avellino DOCG, Campania, Italy tan pizza and Pompeii, Campania stands out as having the most Bright, fresh, with a slight nuttiness, lovely citrus and minerality, indigenous (local) grape varieties of all of Italy’s wine regions. Grapes such as Fiano, Greco and Aglianico are not only cultivat- culminating in long length. ed, but celebrated, taking center stage in the region’s highest deEmpatia 2017, Fiano d’Avellino DOCG, Campania, Italy nominations. This organically produced Fiano was very aromatic and extremely floral, with fresh acidity, stone fruit, wet stone and long length. For Ilaria, it is Falanghina that she wishes to next elevate and believes that the vines grown in Benevento provide the best expression of the grape. This white variety most frequently display Alatheia 2017, Greco di Tufo DOCG, Campania, Italy This was very structural, with citrus and almond notes, medium citrus, floral and herbal notes, along with medium body and acidity and long length. bright acidity, And, while less structured than the more vaunted Greco and Fiano, Ilaria, in collaboration with Donnachiara’s consultant winemaker, Riccardo Cotarella, is confident that it has the Greco Riserva 2017, Campania, Italy Having spent more time aging before release, this Greco was potential to create wines of distinction. more concentrated, with yeasty aromas and fuller body. The Regionally, the majority of vineyards are primarily situated along Greco di Tufo Riserva will soon be approved as an addition to the the interior border of Campania, where the elevation and distance DOCG. Resilienza 2016, Beneventano Falanghina IGT, Campania Showing some development on both the nose and palate, this wine displays minerality, medium acidity, richness, lanolin, white flowers and apricot, with long length. All of the Donnachiara Taurasi wines are produced in a very elegant style, with resolved tannins and ready to be enjoyed upon release, although they certainly have the potential to age. Taurasi 2015, Taurasi DOCG, Campania, Italy Hailing from the excellent 2015 vintage, this wine offers up floral and black cherry aromas with soft tannins, an earthy undercurrent and long length. Taurasi 2013, Taurasi DOCG, Campania, Italy The 2013 vintage was a more challenging one, with lots of rain. Yet despite the less than stellar conditions, the wine is lovely with ripe red fruit, good acidity and long length. Taurasi Riserva 2012, Taurasi Riserva DOCG, Campania, Italy Only made in select years, the Riserva spent 24 months aging in oak. It displayed darker fruit and a more overt oak influence on both the nose and palate. The vintage was great, but warmer than usual.
Yarden and Purim: A Day of Lots with Arriving in 1991, Victor never expected to stay on beyond his initial contract, but today, 28 years later, he still holds the position of Chief Winemaker and is at the helm of 6-person team, all in pursuit of crafting quality wine. Having joined Yarden early on in its creation (the winery was originally established in 1983), Victor has been blessed with an amazing opportunity to truly grow the winery from the ground up. Currently, Yarden is a leader in the Israeli wine industry, making significant investments in research and development that is shaping its winemaking and that of its neighboring wineries. When Victor first appeared on the scene, little was known about the region, but in the intervening years, he and his colleagues have come to better understand the climate, soils and the best way to grow grapes in the Golan Heights. As a country, Israel is relatively small, but it has a very diverse climate, which significantly impacts grape growing. As Victor notes, the key is to look to elevation to achieve the necessary cooler climate to maintain good acidity and freshness. Accordingly, whites are grown at 3,000-4,000 feet above sea level and reds can be found at an elevation of 2,000 feet. The soils are a combination of volcanic soils and even older mountain soils. Now that they appreciate the nuances of their terroir, the emphasis is firmly on achieving even ripeness, which they do by carefully planning where the various vines will be planted. This permits them to get a good expression of varietal character. Once the grapes are ready to be picked, their quality control is further aided through hand harvesting and the use of optical sorting, ensuring that only the very best grapes find their way into the wine.
Life is often about fate. Whether you believe fate is predestined or that you make your own is another story, but it all comes down to series of different choices and their resulting consequences. This is the underpinning of the Story of Esther, which features prominently in the celebration of Purim. The Purim holiday takes its name from the Hebrew word for lots, since the fate of the Jewish people had been sealed by the wicked Haman who had cast lots as to which date their extermination would take place. Fortunately, his plot was foiled by the bravery of Queen Esther, and instead of the Jews being sent to the gallows, it was Haman who met his demise on that fateful day. With such an emphasis on fate, it was fitting to meet Victor Schoenfeld of Yarden Winery on Purim this month. Thankfully, Victor’s own fate has never been so dire (at least not that I am aware), but it was a series of individual choices that he made that have brought him to his current role and place in the wine industry. In pursuit of his love of food and the land, Victor first enrolled at UC Santa Cruz to study agriculture and later transferred to UC Davis to pursue a degree in viticulture. It was after spending a year managing a vineyard that convinced him that he needed to expand his knowledge to understand both grape growing and wine making, prompting him to fulfill the degree requirements in the latter as well. His next fateful decision was to accept a threeyear contract to work for Yarden Winery, uprooting himself from Glen Ellen, California to the Golan Heights in Israel.
Other areas of exploration undertaken by the winery have focused on ensuring quality rootstocks and vines. In this regard, Yarden has received ENTAV licensing for their own propagation area, growing vines and wood, with the goal of eradicating the country’s problem with leaf roll virus. Additionally, they received certification from Lodi Rules Sustainable Winegrowing Program for their practices in the vineyard, the first winery outside of California to receive this recognition and a testament to Yarden’s commitment to the environment. This considerable accomplishment is bolstered by the winery’s use of solar power, recycling programs and development of an organic vineyard. Overall, the various projects have permitted Victor and his team to use high tech tools to measure and understand how to grow great grapes and make excellent wine, such as their creation of a new way to measure vineyard strength. Consequently, they can react to any issues and make corrections as needed. As they continue to discover more about their land and how to best care for it, Victor notes that they are in the middle of a journey and adds that he is excited about what they are doing and learning. Looking ahead, it is clear that the winery will continue to produce high quality wines that are both age-worthy and worthy of attention. What Victor’s fate will continue to bring, only time will tell, but for now, he continues to lead his team to good fortune and great wine. And, that, is definitely worth celebrating!
h Lots to Celebrate TASTING NOTES
ferent vineyards, taken from the most concentrated lots. Fresher than the Odem, but Yarden Katzrin Blanc de Blancs late dis- with more overt oak due to the lengthier aging (9 months). Still very youthful and gorged 2007, $105.99 will evolve in the bottle with time. Full This Traditional Method sparkling wine spent 10 years on the lees. Fresh with live- bodied, apple, spice, angular, long length. ly acidity, nice perlage, yeasty, toasty and Yarden Merlot 2014, $30.99 citrus aromas and flavors, with good Notes of plum, wood, coffee; dry, with length. ripe fruit, spice and medium tannins, giving way to long length. Yarden Gewurztraminer 2017, $22.99 A pronounced nose of lychee, tropical fruit, spice and jasmine. Dry on the palate, Yarden Merlot Odem Organic Vineyard 2014, $105.99 with just a hint of ripeness, good acidity, More herbal in character than the previous slight oily texture, long length. Merlot. Spice, wood, plum, ripe, firmer Yarden Chardonnay Odem Organic Vine- tannins with earthy concentration, culminating in long length. yard 2016, $22.99 As Victor notes, “Oak is never the Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, $35.99 point…” of a wine, “It is a tool.” This wine As Yarden’s most awarded wine, this iconspent 7 months aged in French oak barrels, ic Israeli wine is a diplomat for the winery. with the wood well integrated into the Beautifully balanced, with black fruit, wine. Dry, good acidity, good structure, good acidity, full bodied, firm ripe tannins, not too heavy, creamy and round on the can age 15-20 years. palate. Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon Bar’on Yarden Katzrin Chardonnay 2017, $38.99 Vineyard 2014, $105.99 This Chardonnay is a blend of several difAromas and flavors of black berry, slight
spice, herbs, it is ripe and fresh, with long length. Yarden Katzrin 2011, $212.99 A Bordeaux-style blend, this wine is named for the town in which the winery is located. This vintage is a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon with 8% Merlot; more recent vintages include small percentages of Malbec and Petit Verdot. It has been aged for 24 months in French oak barrels. Brooding, menthol, black fruit, showing slight development, intense and concentrated, ripe, yet elegant, herbal, luscious, ripe tannins, with long length. Yarden T2 2011, $22.50 This fortified, dessert-style wine is a blend of the Portuguese varieties of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Cao, which took some time to get established in the vineyard. It is aged for 28 months in French oak barrels. It displays a Port-like nose, with concentrated spice, cocoa and red fruit aromas, medium sweet, but beautifully balanced with bright acidity and long length.
W
hether you call it Garnacha or Grenache, this great grape is finally getting the recognition it deserves! Last week, in a very special campaign – the first time that two countries are collaborating in the promotion of wine – a unique dinner featuring the wines of Grenache & Garnacha was held at La Nacional Restaurant. The restaurant is operated under the auspices of the Spanish Benevolent Society, first established in 1868 to “promote, encourage and spread the spirit of fraternity and solidarity among Spanish and Hispanic-American residents of this country.” Although the society’s role has morphed over the years as the Spanish immigrant population has declined, it still exists in the promotion of Spanish culture. To this end, most recently, they have taken back its space to launch a public restaurant, bringing top chefs from Spain to create authentic Spanish meals. And, it was the perfect setting in which to enjoy these wonderful wines. Among the oldest grape varieties in the world, Grenache (aka Garnacha) is the second most planted red variety in the world. Within the Garnacha grape family, there are actually four different grapes: red, grey, white and velvet. First grown in the Spanish Kingdom of Aragon, Garnacha thrives in the hot and dry climate, suitable for dry farming. Given its ability to do so well in harsh conditions – it is wind resistant, drought resistant, disease resistent and does well in acidic soils – Garnacha has been hailed as one of the most eco-friendly grapes in the world. Interestingly, with the grape’s sensitivity to soil types, it is often referred to as the Pinot Noir of Spain. Today, 97% of Garnacha vines are found in just two countries: France and Spain. Between the two countries, the majority of the vineyards are located within the adjacent areas of Calatyud, Campo de Borja, Carinena, Somontano, Terra Alta and Roussillon. Yet despite the relatively compact area, the grapes produce a wide range of styles, showcasing the diversity of the variety. In this regard, Grenache produces: sparkling and still wines; lightbodied and full-bodied whites; roses; light-bodied and full-bodied reds; and fortified sweet wines. Additionally, today, many old vines still exist, creating rich, concentrated wines. Moreover, the focus has shifted away from the use of small, new oak barrels to older and larger oak vessels that impart less overt oak flavor and aromas to the resulting wines.
Over the course of our dinner, we had the great opportunity to sample delicious food paired with five beautifully made Garnacha and Grenache wines, illustrating their pleasure-inducing and food-friendly nature. TASTING NOTES Las Moradas de San Martin, Senda 2014, Vinos de Madrid, Spain, $14.00 Under the direction of a female winemaker, Las Moradas de San Martin is working toward receiving organic viticulture status and is home to 190 year old vines. This wine is 100% red Garnacha, with notes of cherry, plum, spice, a slight tannic grip, long length and a slight oxidative note. Paired with a selection of Spanish cheeses. Domaine Gardies, Clos des Vignes 2015, Cotes du Roussillon, France, $33.00 This 5th generation family estate boasts old vines, including the 75 year old vines grown on chalky soils that produced this wine. It is a blend of 60% white Grenache, 35% grey Grenache and 5% Macabeu and Roussanne, vinified in and then aged in large, old, wood vessels for one year before release. Beautifully complex with aromas of floral, acacia, anisette, fennel, wood and a hint of oxidation, along with medium+ acidity, medium+ body, flavors of citrus, stone in finish, culminating in long length. Ageworthy. Paired with Octopus. Bodegas San Valero Particular Old Vine 2015 Carinena, Spain, $15.00 Bodeas San Valero is a co-op, which is starting to do some single vineyard wines. The grapes for this wine were grown at 650 meters in altitude, in limestone and chalky soils, that are very stony. These rocks hold heat at night, helping to aid in the vine’s ripening. An intense nose of red fruit, on the palate the wine offers up spice, slight tannic grip, ripe red fruit, wild berries, with long length. 100% Garnacha; aged three months in oak. Paired with Grilled Lamb Chops – a very traditional pairing. Bodegas Paniza (highest village in the appellation) Vinas Viejas de Paniza Garnarcha 2016, Carinena, Spain, $12.00 Produced from 100% Garnacha, on slate soils and grey schist at a high altitude, this wine spends six months in oak. It is very fresh, with herbal aromas and flavors, dark red and black fruit, good acidity, medium tannins and long length. Paired with Chorizo and Bechamel Croquettes. Les Vignerons de Constance & Terrassous Hors d’Age 12 Ans, Rivesaltes Ambre, Roussillon, France, $30.00 A fortified dessert wine produced from 40-year-old, white Grenache vines, this wine has a slight oxidative note, with rich and complex flavors of apricot, caramel and spice, joined with good acidity, structure and long length. Paired with Chocolate Mousse and Blood Orange Gelato.
DINING AROUND TOWN New York City always offers up a wonderful array of dining and drinking options. Lately, we’ve been enjoying some amazing sushi experiences, rooftop bars and delicious dinners! • • • • •
Monarch Rooftop Sushi by Bou, Suite 1001 Sushi Ishikawa Atoboy (Korean-inspired cuisine) RDV (French Mediterranean)
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