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Arnhem Land An area of more than 94,000 spectacular square kilometres, Arnhem Land is Aboriginal-owned, home to many different clan groups and is a cultural stronghold from which the didgeridoo originates. Access is available through a limited number of tours and safari camp operators as well as visits to community art centres.
Katherine Gorge The crossroads of the south, north, east and west, Katherine is your last stop before venturing into the great red unknown that links Darwin and Alice Springs. Crossing from Broome and the Kimberley you’ll hit Katherine too after a lack of civilisation. A town with all the mod cons, make sure you stock up before moving on. Your main reason for visiting, however, is the Katherine Gorge. Enclosed in Nitmiluk National Park, this is one of the NT’s “Big Three” along with Kakadu and Uluru. There are over 13 gorges with more than 100km of walking tracks set in rugged terrain, just outside of town. You can explore the spectacular surrounds by canoe or cruise boat, foot or helicopter. The canoe is your best bet, getting intimate with nature. There are freshwater crocodiles in the water and swimming is reasonably safe, but be careful not to go to the beaches where the crocs have made nests for their eggs. Check with the rangers to see if any salties have been spotted in the area before you take the plunge. Start at the information centre. One of the two major centres between Darwin and Alice Springs, Tennant Creek is well situated for a break from the road. An important place to stock up on fuel and munchies, it’s a gold mining area,
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although major open-cut mining stopped in 1985, and you can still fossick in limited areas with an inexpensive Miners’ Right. Further down the track towards Alice Springs, you’ll stumble across the Devil’s Marbles, bizarre boulders in the middle of a flat landscape with Aboriginal significance. Stand in the middle of the split rock or “hilariously” pretend to be pushing one down the hill. It’s one to add to the comedy photo collection.
Alice Springs When you make it to Alice, it’s time to stop for a while and soak up the atmosphere. Try hot air ballooning across the outback – it’s breathtaking stuff at sunrise, with unbelievable views, or go camel riding and watch the sun slowly set over the town.
Getting around Alice Springs The town centre is walkable, although some places are a little further afield. ASBUS, the public bus service, is useful for those staying in outlying camping areas.
Out on the town Once the sun has set behind the ranges, this little town comes to life, with a number of lively little pubs, populated by everyone from real-life cowboys to footloose and fancy-free travellers, in the Todd Street/Mall area. Best of the bunch include Bojangles (a packed, cattle-station-style restaurant and nightclub), The Rock Bar (crammed with backpackers boozing after their Uluru tours) and the Todd Tavern (a locals’ pub, often with live music). To find out what’s on when, check out The Alice Springs News (alicespringsnews.com.au).
DON’T MISS
The rock Gawp at the Red Centre’s ‘rock stars’ in Uluru-Kata Tjuta NP and Watarrka NP (Kings Canyon). Croc jumping Play “guess which meat dangler 56
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will lose their toes first” with the jumping crocs near Darwin. Aboriginal art The Territory is probably the best place to learn about Australia’s indigenous people. Kakadu Waterfalls, toothsome wildlife, rock art... Just watch where you swim. Go sky high Take a hot air balloon ride from Alice Springs (ideally at dawn). Bargain hunting Eat great food, watch a spectacular
sunset, and pick up some bargains at Darwin’s famous Mindil Beach Markets. Kayaking with crocs Dodge the crocodiles as you kayak through Katherine Gorge. Arnhem Land Get off the beaten track in Arnhem Land, the beautiful Aboriginalowned reserve. Devil’s Marbles Play with the Devil’s Marbles; the giant rocks provide many a photo opportunity.