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a hugely popular figure due to his support of the Samoan chiefs, way before independence was even on the table. Nearby you’ll also find one of Samoa’s funnest natural attractions, the Papasee’a sliding rock. There the brave can scream their way down a 5m rock slide through a waterfall into a jungle pool. Those looking for an idyllic beach getaway will most likely find themselves on the island’s south coast. Pick your spot on a stretch of staggeringly beautiful beaches dotted with low-key resorts, like at Lalomanu, where you’ll have no difficulty losing all track of time. Another of the country’s top swimming spots, and a photographer’s dream, can be found at the To Sua Ocean Trench, on the south coast. Here a wooden ladder drops into a natural cavern filled from the ocean, via a lava tube, with stunning blue water. Savai’i: Samoa’s biggest island, and the fourth largest in Polynesia, after New Zealand and Hawaii, Savai’i is even less developed than Upolu, with much of the interior covered by near-impenetrable jungle. As a result, this is where to head to discover the ‘real’ Samoa. The island is a geologist’s dream, thanks to being covered with about 450 volcanic cones and a whole lot of lava. Attractions include the Saleaula lava fields, on the island’s northern tip, and the highly dramatic Alofaaga Blowholes, in the far south. They’re widely regarded as some of the most impressive blowholes in the world. In the south-east is Mt Tafua Savaii, the island’s second largest volcano, which you can clamber to the top of for spectacular views across the island and the chance to glimpse the area’s giant fruit bats. Adventure enthusiasts should head to Paia’s Dwarfs Cave, in the north, where a villager will take you deep into the underground lava tubes, through water-filled caverns, without any of the health and safety considerations that would be the norm in Australasia. Budget beachside resorts, with cheap fales, are sprinkled all along the coast, but the biggest concentration is in the villages around Fagamalo, 170 TNTDOWNUNDER.COM
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in the north, which is also where the island’s best diving is found. Getting to Savai’i is easy, thanks to daily twohour ferries from Mulifanua on western Upolu. Manono: Tiny little Manono, with its complete lack of roads, dogs and general noise, is just a swift 20 minute boat ride from western Upolu, and is a great place to experience the Samoa of yesteryear. You can walk around the whole island in an hour or two, before snorkelling on the excellent reef and staying over in a fale. Also in the Apolima Straight are Nu’ulopa and Apolima islands. Aleipata Islands: Uninhabited Nu’utele, Nu’ulua, Namua and Fanuatapu are all off Upolu’s eastern tip. Nu’usafe’e Island: This dot of an island is just off the coast from south Upolu village Vaovai.
Samoa essentials Travellers from the EU, North America and Australasia are automatically granted free 60-day visas on arrival, as long as you have onward tickets and at least six months left on your passport. The local currency is the Samoan tala ($). Make sure you stock up on cash at the airport or in town as, once you hit the villages, ATMs are few and far between. The talas go a long way, however, thanks to Samoa being cheaper than most destinations in the region, including Fiji. Outside of Apia, either in the villages or resorts, the cheapest accommodation option is sleeping in a fale, which are basic beachside huts with a mattress on the floor and palms for blinds. The simplest fale will set you back around $65 (AU$27) a night, including dinner and breakfast, or you could pay slightly more for an actual bed and a few luxuries. Getting around the islands can be a challenge. There is a comprehensive bus network, and using it is a great way to meet some locals, but don’t expect to get anywhere fast, with buses generally leaving when they’re full, rather than according to any schedule. The two main islands are linked by an efficient ferry service (see samoashipping.com), but when on land your best bet is to hire a car or join a tour. Check out samoa.travel for tour company listings. Take note that despite enjoying t-shirt and boardies weather all-year round, Samoa does get a lot of rain, especially during the wet season, between November and March. August is peak season, when it’s advisable to book ahead. Regular direct flights are available from Australia, New Zealand, the USA and Fiji with Virgin Samoa, Air New Zealand, Air Pacific and Polynesian Airlines. Keep some cash back when leaving for the $40 departure tax. ❚