754 by TNT MAGAZINE

June 2015 Issue 754

!AL IN W ABORIGIN

AN EXPLORER TOUR & CRUISE WITH SYDNEY OUT BACK

WHERE TO GET YOUR GROG ON We find the top five wine regions Down Under. Hic

KAKADU DO DO Find your inner Dundee in croc country

! N W O D K O O L T ’ DON uckland A d e k c a -p n o acti arnesses) in h d n (a s g in of the W Become Lord

+ TOP 10 SOUTH AUSTRALIA SRI LANKA ONE MAN AND HIS VAN TOA FRASER

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ADVERTORIAL Spend the night in lock-up at

Fremantle Prison YHA!

Recently opened, Fremantle Prison YHA provides exceptional accommodation for travellers desiring a unique hostel experience! Originally the women’s division of the World Heritage-listed Fremantle Prison, YHA WA has converted the nineteenth century property into a 200-bed hostel for the adventurous travellers. Through a heritage-sensitive renovation, historic charm is combined with purpose built facilities, while retaining the original fabric of the prison. Its history is interpreted and displayed throughout the building, and guests can even sleep in original cells and prison warders’ cottages, as well as brand new purpose-built private rooms or dormitory-style accommodation. Fremantle Prison YHA offers all the facilities that budget travellers need, including a self-catering kitchen, large common areas, TV rooms, a laundry and luggage storage. The 24 hour reception offers travel and tour bookings, and there is ample parking, lockers, a pool table, ping pong and computers/ Wi-Fi. Groups are catered for with dedicated facilities, including a conference room. Plans also include a giant chess set, giant jenga, volleyball and an outdoor movie screen.

The history of the site dates back to 1829 when the area, dubbed the Swan River Colony, was designated for freesettlers. However, the settlement’s fledgling agricultural industry soon floundered, and with the colony’s future looking bleak, convict labour was introduced and Fremantle Prison was created for the newly constituted penal settlement. Built in the 1850s, with convicts and local lawbreakers occupying the site from 1855 until 1991, Fremantle Prison was a place where hangings, floggings, escapes and riots were etched in history. When Perth Prison closed, female inmates were moved to Fremantle Prison in 1889. The laundry, bakehouse and cookhouse division of the prison was sectioned off and extended to accommodate the women, forming Female Division - a prison within a prison – and now a YHA! Just a few minutes’ walk from the hostel is the vibrant port city centre of Fremantle with its untouched nineteenth century streetscape, colourful markets, bohemian cafes, buzzing nightlife and remarkable local attractions. Visit yha.com.au for more information and to book.

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EDITORIAL Editor Caroline Garnar caroline.garnar@tntmagazine.com DESIGN AND PRODUCTION Design and production manager Lisa Ferron SALES Sales manager Jaqui Ward jaqui.ward@tntmagazine.com

FROM THE EDITOR

STARTRACK MEDIA LTD CEO Kevin Ellis Chairman Ken Hurst PUBLISHER Startrack Media Ltd PRINTED BY Spotpress PICTURES Getty Images | iStock | TNT Images | Supplied TNT Magazine online tntdownunder.com COVER IMAGE Sky Jump NZ

WHERE TO GET TNT

SEE tntdownunder.com/magazine-location.html for pick-up points

Sometimes, people are extraordinary. When faced with a devastating illness or injury most people think they would fall apart. But the majority surprise themselves and those around them by fighting to stay positive and survive against the odds. Not only that, but they transform their life-threatening experience into something positive, using it as a catalyst for living a life they love, and doing what they think is important. Two fine examples of this are Kiwi Jessica Weller and Aussie Paul McMahon. Read their incredible stories over on page 18. For both of these survivors, travel is on the top of their ‘live life to the full’ list. If it’s on yours too, you should turn to page 36 where we explore Kakadu, Australia’s Crocodile Dundee-esque territory. Be careful not to make this your last trip, though, as you sure as hell look a lot like lunch to those beady eyes staring out at you from the murky water. If you like your sense of danger to come without razor-sharp teeth, head to Auckland (p64) where you can dice with death by jumping off various ledges, walking at ridiculous heights and then of course there’s the simmering threat that you are surrounded by volcanoes... To calm your nerves, you can hit up one of our top five wine regions first, listed on page 32. Roam the beautiful vineyards stretched out for miles before sampling their fruits in fermented form. New Zealand has an abundance, although south Australia gives it a run for its money – and while you’re there you can tick off our top 10 things to do while deep down under, from exploring opal mines to visiting a ‘zoo without cages’ and diving with sharks (hopefully with cages this time). Whatever you do, make the most of it – you only live once, and you have no idea when this crazy life might end.

caroline.garnar@tntmagazine.com

TNT Magazine is printed on paper from sustainable forests. There is no business connection between the proprietors of this magazine and TNT Ltd, the worldwide transportation group. TNT Magazine does not assume responsibility for unsolicited submissions – material is sent at the owner’s risk. TNT Magazine accepts advertising material and other contributions in good faith, and takes no responsibility for claims, errors or omissions. Copyright here and abroad of all original materials is held by TNT Magazine. Reproduction in whole or part is forbidden, except with permission of the publishers.

Snowfields special

Top 5 bus tours

South America

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THIS MONTH DIARY 6 FOOD & DRINK 10 GIGS 12 PUBS

AGAINST THE ODDS

TOA FRASER

CHATROOM

TRAVEL TRAVEL BITES 30 TOP 5: WINE REGIONS 32 OZ: KAKADU

HOTSHOTS 42 TOP 10: SOUTH AUSTRALIA 44 NZ: AUCKLAND

BIG TRIP: SRI LANKA

AUSTRALIA LISTINGS

NEW ZEALAND LISTINGS

CAREERS 88 DESPERATELY SEEKING

ON THE COVER TOA FRASER

We talk to the director of Maori film The Dead Lands

ONE MAN AND HIS VAN

Author tells of his Kiwi adventure

WHERE TO GET YOUR GROG ON

We find the top 5 wine regions. Hic

KAKADU DU DU

Find your inner Dundee in croc country

TOP 10 SOUTH OZ

The tick list for deep Down Under

DON’T LOOK DOWN!

Be the Lord of the Wings in Auckland

SRI LANKA

82 4

Explore this stunning teardrop country

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36 TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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OZDIARY

@tntdownunder

OUR TOP PICKS COOLY ROCKS ON Until June 8, Gold Coast

The biggest 50s’ and 60s’ nostalgia festival in Australia, rock and roll to the music, fawn over the hot rods, and browse through retro market stalls. The grand finale is on the last weekend, with parades and parties. Entry is free; fee for indoor shows vary. FREE+

Various times Tweed Heads

HAWKESBURY ART FAIR

Until June 14, Windsor This community fair showcases traditional and contemporary artists, designers, crafters, and jewellers living and working in the Hawkesbury region. There are also demonstrations, workshops and opportunities to buy. FREE

Coolangatta &

Various times

coolyrockson.

Centre, Windsor

mybigcommerce.com

Deerubbin sydney.com/

events/hawkesbury-art-fair

MUST DO BONDI WINTER MAGIC 2015 June 25-July 12, Sydney

The sand is replaced with snow (not literally) in Bondi this winter, with markets, live music, shows, exhibitions and more entertainment to keep you warm inside. To really feel like you’re back in the UK, there’s even an ice rink... although you’ll be right next to the beach, so you won’t freak out and think you’ve woken up back in England. There there, you’re still in Oz.

VAR

Various times and locations in Bondi Beach

CABARET SEASON June 1-28, Sydney

June is dedicated to all things singing and dancing at Hayes Theatre. With a programme consisting mainly of solo and duo artists singing songs and telling life stories, this is an intimate look at one of the oldest forms of entertainment. $40+

See website for event programme Hayes Theatre, 19 Greenknowe Avenue, Potts Point hayestheatre.com.au

SYDNEY FILM FESTIVAL June 3-14, Sydney Catch the film festival before is disappears for another year. See documentaries, film debuts, short movies and Blockbuster hits in indoor and outdoor locations across the city. Also look out for talks and special dining offers. $20+

See website for film programme Various across Sydney sff.org.au

KURT June 18-19, Sydney

bondiwintermagic.org.au

SUPER RUGBY FINALS

$105+

Jun 5-Jul 4, Nationwide

6.30pm

With qualifying fixtures including Force vs Brumbies in Perth June 5, Reds vs Chiefs in Brisbane June 6, Rebels vs Force in Melbs June 12, and Waratahs vs Reds in Sydney June 13, catch your local game before the winners battle it out in the finals.

Conceived and performed by Justin Burford, watch Kurt Cobain’s troubled life unfold before you on stage, with Burford’s voice doing justice to the late Nirvana singer’s vocals. Available as part of a three or five-show package during Cabaret Season. Hayes Theatre, 19 Greenknowe Avenue, Potts Point hayestheatre.com.au

$11+

Various times and venues rugby.com.au/superrugby

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CAKE, BAKE AND SWEETS SHOW June 12-14, Sydney $26+ Got a sweet tooth? Then I don’t think we need to tell you this sticky show’s for you. See celebrity demos, attend classes and workshops and, most importantly, fill up on samples and stock up on sweet treats. From baking bread to decorating cakes, this event is right up our (Quality) street. 10am-5pm

Sydney Olympic Park

WINTER MAGIC FESTIVAL June 20, Katoomba

Celebrate the winter solstice in the Blue Mountains, as the streets of Katoomba are closed to traffic and instead taken over by people in fancy dress, market stalls, artists, musicians and dancers. The theme this year is ‘peace’, so beards are most welcome. FREE+

11.30am-6.30pm Katoomba, Blue Mountains, NSW wintermagic.com.au

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cakebakeandsweets.com

INTERNATIONAL MUSIC FESTIVAL June 27-29, Sydney

Expand your musical mind with performances from choirs, jazz bands, orchestras and more from Australia, China, New Zealand, USA and beyond. Also the perfect excuse to see inside the famous Opera House. $33+

Various times Sydney Opera House sydneyoperahouse.com

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OZDIARY

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Perth: This show is quite literally Wicked

Sydney: Get your trainers on and hit the sand for the Barnados Beach Bolt

Sydney: Perth boys Command Q are heading east

PERTH

GOLD COAST

MELBOURNE

WICKED THE MUSICAL UNTIL JUNE 28 / VAR / $92+ Find out the real story behind the ‘good’ and ‘bad’ witches, with vocal performances that will make you emerald with envy.

AUSTRALIAN OPEN – BOWLS JUNE 13-25 / VAR / FREE The most exciting event in the sporting calendar (for some) has moved from Melbourne to the Gold Coast. Watch the pros bowl over $222k.

GOOD FOOD & WINE SHOW JUNE 5-8 / FROM 10AM / $34 Making its way around Oz, it’s Melbourne’s turn to indulge in food and wine with cooking demonstrations and all-important tastings.

Final to be held at Broadbeach Bowls Club, 169 Surf Parade australianopen. bowlsaustralia.com.au

2 Clarendon Street

Crown theatre, Great Eastern Hwy, Burswood, Perth, WA 6100 wickedthemusical.com.au

TRUFFLE KERFUFFLE FESTIVAL JUNE 26-28 / VAR / $20+ Escape the city for a truffle-centred market, masterclasses, fine dining and a good old truffle shuffle (hunt). Breathe that fresh air, aaaah. Fonty’s Pool Caravan Park, Seven Day Road, Manjimup WA 6258

trufflekerfuffle.com.au

BROADBEACH COUNTRY MUSIC FESTIVAL JUNE 19-21 / VAR / FREE The McClymonts, Beccy Cole, The Wolfe Brothers and more are set to pluck, strum and warble around Broadbeach for three days.

Perth Convention & Exhibition Centre, 21 Mounts Bay Rd

goodfoodshow.com.au

GERTRUDE STREET PROJECTION FESTIVAL JUNE 10-19 / AFTER SUNSET / FREE The length of Gertrude Street in Fitzroy is illuminated by the visions of talented projection artists in this magical community event. Gertrude Street, Fitzroy

gspf.com.au

Various venues around Broadbeach broadbeachcountry.com

GOOD FOOD & WINE SHOW JUNE 10-12 / FROM 10AM / $35 Making its way around Oz, it’s Perth’s turn to indulge in food and wine with cooking demonstrations and all-important tastings.

Melbourne Convention & Exhibition Centre

VIVA SURFERS PARADISE JULY 10-19 / VAR / FREE+ Rock out to Elvis tributes, browse vintage wares, and even renew your vows Vegas style. Various, Surfers Paradise surfersparadise.com

STATE OF ORIGIN GAME II JUNE 17 / 8PM / $20+ Rugby League’s showpiece event, the Holden State of Origin Series, is coming to the MCG. With everything to play for it is sure to be another thrilling chapter in league folklore. Melbourne Cricket Ground, Yarra Park, Jolimont

ticketek.com.au/mcgorigin

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CAIRNS

SYDNEY

CAIRNS AIRPORT ADVENTURE FESTIVAL JUNE 7-14 / EARLY! / $25 for visitor boat This festival is a melange of fitness challenges, from Ironman to mountain biking to swims to night runs; if you’re fit and have a serious competitive streak get yourself strapped up in Lycra and go. Spectators are welcome too, with a boat transfer so they can chase the race.

HAIR TO THE THRONE JUNE 13 & 21 / 6.30PM / $105+ An unmissable, full-body experience as former Miss Leningrad and celebrity bikini waxer, Rosa Waxoffski spills the dirt from the pages of her star-studded appointment book in this comedy cabaret exposé. Available as part of a three or five-show package during Cabaret Season.

Various, Cairns & Port Douglas ironman. com/triathlon/events/asiapac/multisports/cairns

UNDERSTORY FILM FESTIVAL JUNE 13 / 6PM / FREE See the pick of the best from local independent, student, emerging and professional film makers in the gorgeous setting of the Cairns Botanical Gardens. There will also be an awards ceremony, live music and fully licensed bar. Cairns Botanic Gardens, 64 Collins Ave Edge Hill facebook.com/UnderstoryFilmFest

Hayes Theatre, 19 Greenknowe Avenue, Potts Point

hayestheatre.com.au

BARNADOS BEACH BOLT JUNE 14 / 9AM / $40 Get your running shoes on and challenge yourself in Australia’s toughest mile, all to raise money for Barnardos Australia to help stop child abuse. The course takes you down through Coogee’s beautiful scenic walk track and onto the soft sand where you run alongside the water, then up the stairs to Dunningham Reserve for a final bolt up the hill towards the finish line. Coogee Beach, Sydney

LAURA ABORIGINAL ART FAIR JUNE 19-21 / NOON / $60+ Have yourself a road trip up to Laura where they will be celebrating and showcasing the culture of the Aboriginal people of Cape York Peninsula through song, dance ceremony and performance. Held on traditional Bora ground, it’s a respected and sacred site to Aboriginal people with some of the oldest rock art in the world.

beachbolt.com.au

COMMAND Q JUNE 24 / 10PM / $20 It’s hard to describe the outrageous sounds that make up Perth duo Command Q. Get ready to say ‘I don’t know WTF this is, but I like it...’ Finishing off their interstate shows at Sydney’s World Bar, they’re also performing in Brisbane (19th), Auckland (20th) and Adelaide (21st). The World Bar, 24 Bayswater Road, Kings

Ang-Gnarra Festival Grounds, Cape York (330km from Cairns) lauradancefestival.com

Cross

THE BEATLES 50 YEARS ON JUNE 20 / 8PM / $70 The Beatles are back. Well, some guys who look and sound a lot like them are anyway. The Beatle Boys are touring with their tribute to the legendary band; its a 50-year throwback through rock ’n’ roll history.

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL ICE HOCKEY CUP JUNE 27-JULY 11 / VAR / $21.95+ They may be on ice but the action is hot in aggressive ice hockey games. Professional players from Canada and USA – along with specially invited pro players from European nations – will play in this high-class competition.

Civic Theatre, Cnr Florence and Sheridan street, Cairns cairnscivictheatre.com.au

Photos: iStock and Wikicommons

WATCH THIS

BODY, MIND & SOUL MARKET JUNE 28 / 9AM-3PM / FREE Market goers can enjoy massage and new age healing, browse the stalls for speciality products, including jewellery, crystals and meditation CDs as well as books, vegan skin care and more arts and crafts. This year features a special reading event with Francis Bevan – Australia’s “most accurate” clairvoyant, psychic and astrologer. Tanks Art Centre, 46 Collins Avenue, Edge Hill tanksartscentre.com

commandqmusic.com

Sydney Ice Arena & Erina Ice Arena australianicehockeycup.com.au

BRICK MAN JUNE 27-JULY 12 / 10.30AM / $34.90 The Brick Man experience was a smash (not literally, we hope) in Melbourne and is now coming, brick by brick, to Sydney. See 60 original works made entirely of Lego, including an aeroplane, a Ferrari and a space shuttle (not made to scale we might add). Sydney Town Hall, 483 George Street brickmanexperience.com.au

AUSTRALIAN BURLESQUE FESTIVAL Dance, humour and very skimpy underwear, what’s not to love about burlesque? This sultry art form is flamboyant, sexy and intimate, with solo performers teasing and entertaining, each with a unique theme – from butterflies to cowgirls to sci-fi. And it’s not all ‘da-na-da, da-nana-da’ – there are also skilled acrobats, male entertainers, mimes, singers and dance duos. No matter what the act, though, there are sequins, feathers and nipple tassles galore. This is the sixth annual Australian Burlesque Festival, and it brings 100 homegrown and international performers together for 12 shows across seven cities – Melbourne, Darwin, Sydney, Canberra, Newcastle, Byron Bay and Brisbane – from June 11-July 5. Interested in having a go yourself? Be sure to check out the burlesque workshops held when the troop of temptation are in your town. See the website for the full programme. June 11-July 5, $55+, australianburlesquefest.com TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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TOP THREE... ...Sydney brunches THE GROUNDS OF ALEXANDRIA A slice of country living among the urban jungle, find a kitchen garden, bakery, take-away food stalls and a small farmyard complete with chickens and a pig! Using ingredients plucked straight from the garden, every item on the menu is fresh and flavoursome. Order the ‘Chef’s Brekkie Pan’, a hearty, traditional breakfast spread for just $19. thegrounds.com.au

REUBEN HILLS Take in the relaxed vibes of this spacious café and sit near the open roller door out back. Here brunch means business, and with dishes like ‘Really fucking great fried chicken’, they’re not shy about it. Our advice is go straight for the ‘Dirty bird’ burger ($17) with chipotle and the tomato salsa. Ordering your favourite brew is a must too as the café uses beans sourced directly from South America. reubenhills.com.au

Words: Mariah Mathews. Photos: Supplied, iStock and Facebook

THE CLIPPER CAFÉ

Students pack out this trendy, laidback café and for a good reason; they know where to get great food at a great price. One of the many cafés on busy Glebe Point Road, this spot is known for its eggs. We recommend the baked eggs with homemade Napoli sauce, spinach, feta, olives, herb toast and lamb sausages, all for just $11. Try with the cafés traditional chai recipe too. facebook.com/ClipperCafe

RED CHILLI BURGER BAR Proving the smallest kitchens can produce the biggest flavours, Perth

Tucked away among the corner shops of north Perth, the recently opened Red Chilli Burger Bar is quietly pulsing life into Perth’s growing food culture. The venue, small and simple, speaks to the homeliness of these greatquality burgers. From the warm welcome you receive at the door to the goodhearted banter between the chefs and their already dedicated local customers, the smells, sounds, and tastes welcome you to tuck in. THE GRUB With their market-bought veggies, locally sourced meats, handmade buns, and chillies probably plucked from Nana’s garden, there’s no secret to what makes these burgers so delicious – simply fresh, wholesome ingredients. Watch your burgers being made, not by teens half-heartedly slapping meat to bun, but by passionate chefs who have grown up fine-tuning their craft. If you like it hot, it’s doubtful there is a conceivable way to cook chillies and peppers that these guys haven’t encountered. Start with golden fries and a side of chilliinfused oil and, whatever you do, make sure the Cacciatore Calzone tops your Red Chilli Burger bucket list. Pierce the patty stuffed with cheese and peppers, and let it ooze its way through the rest of the self-saucing delight you hold in your hands. Drool. BEHIND THE BAR Without a liquor license, drinks include your standard selection of soft drinks and juices. However, glasses are offered for BYO at no corkage cost. BILL PLEASE: Approximately $25 for a starter, main, and drink. VERDICT: Undoubtedly one of the top contenders for the best burger in Perth. By Mariah Mathews THE SCENE

Unit 4/7 Scarborough Beach Road, North Perth WA 6006

facebook.com/Redchilliburgerbar

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MOJO RECORD BAR Awesome drinks and even better music meet in Sydney

Situated down York Street below a men’s discount clothing shop, Mojo Record fuses the two things that are most conducive to a happy night: music and drinking. A collaboration between joint owners Neville Sergent, who used to run the original store a couple of streets down, and long-time fans Daniel McManus and Jon Ruttan, it’s a sumptuous cavern of dimly lit booths, red leather, dark wood and music merchandise. LPs line the walls and ceilings and gig posters adorn the surroundings, advertising ‘new’ bands such as The Beatles or Sonic Youth in support of artists long since faded from memory. It could not be more cool, yet there’s no pretentiousness. Loud at weekends, with live bands rocking up, but more mellow on early weekday evenings, it’s the kind of place that you don’t want to come with anyone too interesting or chatty, for fear of having to tell them to belt up while you listen to the tunes. BEHIND THE BAR Craft beers from local breweries are poured into two-litre growlers via old-school hand-pumps. The wines all have a NSW focus, and the cocktail names are clever takes on famous musical phrases. BILL PLEASE Beers start at $8, wines at $9, all cocktails are $19, and that THE GRUB The beer-battered chips and sharing platters are tasty, while pizza delivered from Taglio a few doors down is fluffy and delicious. two-litre growler comes in at $40. VERDICT High Fidelity without the judgemental staff, washed down with good drinks. Take me back. By Francesca Baker THE SCENE

73 York Street, Sydney

mojorecordbar.com

ADORA HANDMADE HOT CHOCOLATES

3 OF THE BEST HOT CHOCS

Tucked away near the foyer of the Sydney Wentworth Sofitel, Adora’s $6 hot chocolates are worth the little extra. The light and frothy blend gives you the real chocolate taste without that sickly-full feeling. You also get a free handmade truffle. adora.com.au

SAN CHURRO

THE CHOC POT

The Spanish chocolatiers offer a range of hot chocolates for the serious chocolate lover. Served the traditional way – without milk – cool your thick, rich chocolate down with a scoop of ice cream, or heat it up with a chilli kick. Also try with coconut or hazelnut.

The geniuses at The Choc Pot have combined the two most delicious things known to man, red velvet cake and chocolate. It’s as glorious as you imagine with the red velvet flavour, milky hot chocolate and dollops of cream creating your favourite dessert in a cup.

sanchurro.com

thechocpot.com.au

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TNTNEWS

FLIGHT OF FANCY: FLAG DESIGNERS OPT FOR SHEEP AND KIWIS New Zealand’s new national flag could feature sheep, ice cream or a laser-eyed Kiwi if some of the country’s designers have their tongue-in-cheek way. The government is looking to update the flag, which heraldry experts will tell you currently comprises a defaced Blue Ensign with the Union Flag in the canton and four red stars with white borders to the right. Or, to put it another way, four red stars on a blue background with a small Union Jack in the top left-hand corner. And the people are being asked to have their say. The Flag Consideration Project allows any New Zealander with internet access to submit their own designs until August. The new flag will then be voted on by referendum in March 2016. But not everyone seems to be taking the project entirely seriously. Not surprisingly, there are an abundance of cartoon kiwis – the brown, flightless bird native to the country. Equally, 12

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there are plenty of comical-looking sheep – logical in as much as there are seven times as many sheep as people in New Zealand. One eye-catching design from Jesse Gibbs, of Canterbury, features a cheery sheep on a blue background on the lefthand side, matched by a tasty-looking ice-cream cone on a red background on the right-hand side. “This design represents all of New Zealand because we have lots of sheep and love Hokey Pokey ice cream,” explains Jesse. Another novel design replaces the four stars on the current flag with images of the three main characters in the HBO television series Flight of the Conchords, which was of course inspired by the New Zealand comedy band of the same name. Arguably the wackiest design includes the silhouette of a kiwi bird firing a powerful green laser from its eye. “The laser beam projects a powerful image of New Zealand,” states artist James Gray, of Auckland. “I believe my design is so powerful it does not need to be discussed.” Job done, then.

@tntdownunder

MAN STRIPS NAKED IN PROTEST OVER AN OVERBOOKED FLIGHT An angry passenger stripped naked in the middle of an airport concourse because he was unable to board an overbooked flight. He then gave fellow passengers an eyeful by standing in the buff for more than an hour at Charles Douglas airport, in North Carolina, before security led him away in ’cuffs for questioning. The man launched his protest after attempting in vain to board a US Airways flight to Jamaica. Witnesses said he became angry and shouted loudly before starting to remove his clothes. “He was standing there with his arms crossed and hollering at the lady at the desk,” said Sherry Ketchie, talking to WBTV. “And then he started taking off his clothes. I ain’t never seen nothing like that in my life.” Police confirmed they had responded to “a disturbance call where a male was suffering from a medical issue”. They said the man had been taken for treatment and would not face charges.

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OZPUBS SYDNEY Anchor Bar 8 Campbell Parade, Bondi Beach anchorbarbondi.com Bar Century 1/640, George St, CBD barcentury.com.au Beach Road Hotel 71 Beach Road, Bondi Beach beachroadbondi.com.au Candy’s Apartment 22 Bayswater Road, Potts Point candys.com.au Coogee Pavilion 169 Dolphin St, Coogee beachpalacehotel.com.au DOME Bar 589 Crown Street, Surry Hills domefunctions.com Donny’s Bar 7 Market Ln, Manly donnys.com.au Flinders Hotel 63-65 Flinders St, Surry Hills theflindershotel.com.au Hotel Bondi 178 Campbell Parade, Bondi hotelbondi.com.au Hotel Steyne 75 The Corso, Manly steynehotel.com.au In Situ 1/18 Sydney Rd, Manly insitumanly.com.au Kinselas Hotel 383 Bourke St, Darlinghurst kinselas.com.au

Photo: Cogee Beach photographer

Marlborough Hotel 145 King St, Newtown marlboroughhotel.com.au

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Mount Batten Hotel 701 George Street, CBD sydneycityhostels.com.au New Brighton Hotel 71 The Corso, Manly newbrightonhotel.com.au Oxford Art Factory 38-46 Oxford St, Darlinghurst oxfordartfactory.com Ryan’s Paragon Hotel Loftus St, CBD hotelparagon.com.au Scary Canary 469 Kent St, CBD scarycanarybar.com Scubar 4 Rawson Place, CBD scubar.com.au Side Bar 509 Pitt St, CBD wakeup.com.au/sidebar The Beresford 354 Bourke St, Surry Hills merivale.com.au/ theberesfordhotel The Palace Hotel George St, CBD palacehotelsydney.com.au The Vanguard 42 King St, Newtown thevanguard.com.au The White Horse 381 Crown St, Surry Hills thewhitehorsesurryhills.com.au Trinity Bar 505 Crown St, Surry Hills trinitybar.com.au 3 Wise Monkeys 555 George St, CBD 3wisemonkeys.com.au 4 Pines 29/43-45 East Esplanade, Manly 4pinesbeer.com.au

MELBOURNE Asian Beer Cafe Level 3 Melbourne Central, CBD asianbeercafe.com.au Bar Humbug 586 Little Bourke St, CBD barhumbug.com.au Brutale 18 Corrs Lane, CBD brutale.com.au Black Pearl 304 Brunswick St, Fitzroy blackpearlbar.com.au Cherry Bar 103 Flinders Lane, CBD cherrybar.com.au

The Night Owl 35 Elizabeth Street, CBD facebook.com

The Windsor 112 Mill Point Rd, thewindsorsouthperth.com.au

The Night Cat 137-141 Johnston St, Fitzroy thenightcat.com.au

Voodoo Lounge 174 James St, Northbridge thevoodoolounge.com.au

The Penny Black 420 Sydney Road, Brunswick thepennyblack.com.au The Tote 67-71 Johnston Street, Coll. thetotehotel.com Turf Bar 131 Queen St, CBD turfbar.com.au

ADELAIDE

Corner Hotel 57 Swan Street, Richmond cornerhotel.com

The Apple Bar 5-9 Synagogue Pl, CBD theapplebar.com.au

Eden Bar and Nightclub 1/163 Russell Street, CBD edenbar.com.au

Earl of Leicester Hotel 85 Leicester Street, Parkside earl.com.au

Esplanade Hotel 11 The Esplanade, St Kilda espy.com.au

Electric Circus 17 Crippen Place, CBD crippenplace.com

Northcote Social Club 301 High Street, Northcote northcotesocialclub.com

Grace Emily Hotel 232 Waymouth St, CBD yourbars.com.au

Palace Theatre 20-30 Bourke St, CBD palace.com.au

The Promethean 116 Grote St, CBD theprom.com.au

Shamiana 420 Lonsdale St, CBD shamiana.com.au Star Bar 160 Clarendon Street starbarhotel.com.au The Gin Mill 173 High St, Prahran theginmillprahran.com The Hi-Fi 125 Swanston Street, CBD thehifi.com.au

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PERTH The Clink 14-16 South Terrace, Fremantle theclink.com.au

BRISBANE Canvas Club 16b Logan St, Woolloongabba canvasclub.com.au GPO Hotel 740 Anne St, Fortitude Valley gpohotel.com.au Hotel LA 68 Petrie Terrace, CBD hotella.com.au Iceworks 157 Given Terrace, Paddington iceworks.com.au Pig ‘N’ Whistle Riverside 123 Eagle Street, CBD pignwhistle.com.au The Exchange Hotel 131 Edward St, CBD theexchange.com.au The Fringe Bar Cnr Ann St & Constance St, Fortitude Valley fringebar.com.au The Met Nightclub 56a/256 Wickham St, Fortitude Valley themet.com.au

Subiaco Hotel 465 Hay Street, Subiaco subiacohotel.com.au

Toro Bar 416 Milton Rd, Auchenflower facebook.com

The Shed 69-71 Aberdeen St, Northbr. the-shed.com.au

Super Whatnot 48 Burnett Lane superwhatnot.com

COOGEE PAVILION, SYDNEY Whether you’re taking in the rays as you sip a cocktail on its rooftop, joining the fun at one of its events (think sports events, family days and food festivals), or tucking into fresh seafood, steaming pizza or a chocka burger, Coogee is a fun and relaxed spot to wile away a few hours, and all with ocean views. 129 Dolphin Street, Coogee beachpalacehotel.com.au

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- SCORE YOURSELF -

$50 OFF YOUR TRIP AT STA TRAVEL Book in store today or phone 134 782

Terms and conditions apply. Valid on all new confirmed bookings made in conjunction with a minimum of $500 worth of accommodation, touring and/or travel insurance. Not to be used in conjunction with any other offer. Not redeemable for cash. Non refundable if part used. Offer expires 31 December 2015

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12/06/2015 5:44 am 7/01/2015 3:19 pm

OZPUBS GOLD COAST Benowa Tavern 117 Ashmore Rd, Benowa benowatavern.com.au

HOBART Bar Celona 23 Salamanca Sq, CBD barcelonahobart.com

Blush Nightclub 21 Orchid Avenue, Surfers Paradise blushnightclub.com.au Coolangatta Sands Hotel Griffith St, Coolangatta coolangattasandshotel.com.au Shooters Superclub Shop 46 The Mark, Orchid Avenue, Surfers Paradise shooterssuperclub.com

Raincheck Lounge 392 Elizabeth St, North Hobart rainchecklounge.com.au Republic Bar & Cafe 299 Elizabeth St, North Hobart republicbar.com Shipwrights Arms 29 Trumpeter St, Battery Point shipwrightarms.com.au The Duke 192 Macquarie Street CBD theduke.com.au

CAIRNS Ba8 Lounge Bar Shangri-La Hotel, The Pier at the Marina, Pier Point shangri-la.com Dunwoody’s Tavern 317 Sheridan St, North Cairns dunwoodys.com.au Salt House 6/2 Pier Point Rd, CBD salthouse.com.au

NEWCASTLE Albion Hotel 72 Hannell St, Wickham thealbion.com.au Bar Petite 5 King St, CBD barpetite.com.au Burwood Inn Hotel

77 Berner Street, Merewether theburwood.com.au

Mary Ellen Hotel 57 Railway St, Mereweather maryellenhotel.com.au

Alibi 76 Crown Street wollongongnightlife.com.au

Cambridge Hotel 789 Hunter St, CBD yourcambridge.com

Oriental Hotel 53 Bull St, Cooks Hill facebook.com/theorihotel

Cricketers Arms 61 Bruce St, Cooks Hill cricketersarmshotel.com.au

Premier Hotel 1 Brunker Rd, Broadmeadow hotelpremier.com.au

Castros 5 Victoria Street facebook.com/castros

Hamilton Hotel 442 Kingsford Smith Dve, Ham hamiltonhotel.com.au

Royal Inn Hotel Waratah 61/69 Station St, Waratah truelocal.com.au

Hamilton Station Hotel 2-6 Beaumont St, Islington hamiltonstation.com.au

Sunnyside Tavern 20 Broadmeadow Rd, Broadmeadow sunnysidetavern.com.au

Kent Hotel 59-61 Beaumont St, Hamilton thekenthotel.com.au

The Northern Star 112 Beaumont St, Hamilton northernstarhotel.com.au

King Street Hotel 15 Steel St, Newcastle West kingstreethotel.com.au

Wickham Park Hotel 61 Maitland Rd, Islington thewicko.com.au

Lass O’Gowrie 14 Railway St, Wickham lassogowriehotel.com.au

This cute and quirky spot is the perfect place to come on in out of the rain and tuck into gastro pub tapas and craft beer or a big glass of rouge to warm your cockles. rainchecklounge.com.au

Silo Restaurant and Lounge 18/1 Honeysuckle Dr, CBD silolounge.com.au

Hotel Delany 134 Darby St, CBD hoteldelany.com

RAINCHECK, HOBART 392 Elizabeth St

BYRON BAY Beach Hotel Bay St beachhotel.com.au Byron Bay Brewery 1 Skinners Shoot Road byronbaybrewery.com.au Cheeky Monkey’s 115 Jonson St cheekymonkeys.com.au La La Land Level 1/6 Lawson St lalalandbyronbay.com.au The Northern 35-43 Jonson St thenorthern.com.au Treehouse on Belongil 25 Childe St treehouseonbelongil.com Woody’s Surf Shack 90-96 Jonson St woodysbyronbay.com

CANBERRA Academy Club 15 Bunda St academyclub.com.au Cube Nightclub 33 Petrie Plaza cubenightclub.com.au ICBM Bar 50 Northbourne Ave icbmbar.com

Photo: Raincheck photographer

Mooseheads 105 London Circuit mooseheads.com.au

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PJ O’Reilly’s 52 Alinga St pjoreillys.com.au Transit Bar 7 Akuna St transitbar.com.au

WOLLONGONG

Glasshouse Nightclub 90 Crown Street facebook.com/ sucasawollongong Grand Hotel 234 Keira Street wollongongnightlife.com.au Harp Hotel 124 Corrimal Street wollongongnightlife.com.au Ivory Nightclub 77 Crown Street wollongongnightlife.com.au OneFiveOne 150 Keira Street wollongongnightlife.com.au Questions Unit 5 123-125 Corrimal Street wollongongnightlife.com.au

DARWIN Ducks Nuts 76 Mitchell St, CBD ducksnuts.com.au Squires Tavern 3 Edmunds St, CBD squirestavern.com.au Shenannigans 69 Mitchell St, CBD shenannigans.com.au The Deck Bar 22 Mitchell St, CBD thedeckbar.com.au The Tap Bar 58 Mitchell St, CBD thetap.com.au

ALICE SPRINGS Bojangles Saloon 80 Todd St yourbars.com.au Chifley Alice Springs Resort 34 Stott Tce chifleyhotels.com.au Firkin & Hound 21 Hartely St yourbars.com.au Monte’s Lounge Corner of Todd St & Stott Tce montes.net.au The Juicy Rump @ Lasseters 93 Barret Dr, Desert Springs lasseters.com.au The Rock Bar 78 Todd St therockbar.com.au Todd Tavern 1 Todd St toddtavern.com.au

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AUCKLAND Albion Hotel 119 Hobson St albionhotel.co.nz Brew on Quay 102 Quay St brewonquay.co.nz Bluestone Room 9-11 Durham Lan thebluestoneroom.co.za Cassette 9 9 Vulcan Ln cassettenine.com Cavalier Tavern 68 College Hill thecavalier.co.nz Currach Irish Pub 78 Blackwell Dr currachirishpub.co.nz De Fontein 77 Tamaki Dr, Mission Bay defontein.co.nz Doolan Brothers 414 Khyber Pass Rd, Newmarket doolanbrothers.co.nz Father Ted’s 1 Wellesley St W fatherteds.co.nz Fort Street Union 16 Fort St fortstreetunion.co.nz Gables Speights Ale House 248 Jervois Rd, Herne Bay gablesspeightsalehouse.co.nz Galbraith’s Alehouse 2 Mt Eden Rd, Grafton alehouse.co.nz Garrison Public House 61/286 Mt Wellington Hwy, Mt Wellington South garrisonpub.co.nz La Zeppa Kitchen 33 Drake St, Freemans Bay lazeppa.co.nz The Lumsden 444/448 Khyber Pass Rd, Newmarket thelumsden.co.nz

BACK IN BLACK

Malt Bar 442 Richmond Rd maltbar.co.nz

Normanby Hotel 37 Normandy Rd, Mt Eden thenormanbyhotel.co.nz Parnell Bar & Grill 196 Parnell Rd, Parnell parnellbarandgrill.co.nz Queens Ferry Hotel 12 Vulcan Ln queensferryhotel.co.nz Shakespeare Brewery 61 Albert St shakespearehotel.co.nz Spitting Feathers 16 Wyndham St spittingfeathers.co.nz Sprig & Fern 2 Drake St, Freemans Bay sprigandferntaverns.co.nz

Tainui Tavern 33 Morrin Rd menumania.co.nz The Fox 85/87 Customs St W thefox.co.nz

The Welsh Dragon Bar 10/12 Cambridge Terrace, Mt Victoria welshdragonbar.co.nz

CHRISTCHURCH

The Zookeeper’s Son 715 Mt Albert Rd zookeepersson.co.nz

Bealey’s Speight’s Ale House 263 Bealey Ave bealeysalehouse.co.nz

Three Lamps 1-3 St Marys Rd, St Marys Bay threelamps.co.nz

Bailies Bar 1066 Colombo St, St Albans bailiesbar.co.nz

4.20 bar 373 Karangahape Rd 420.co.nz

Becks Southern Alehouse 155 Colombo St beckssouthernalehouse.co.nz

WELLINGTON Arbitrageur Wine Room 125 Featherston St arbitrageur.co.nz Bangalore Polo Club 63 Courtenay Pl, Te Aro bangalorepoloclub.co.nz Bodega 101 Ghuznee St bodega.co.nz

The Brewers Arms 177 Papanui Rd, Merivale thebrewersarms.co.nz Burgers & Beers Inc 355 Colombo St, Sydenham burgersandbeersinc.co.nz Calendar Girls 196 Hereford St calendargirls.co.nz Darkroom 336 St Asaph St darkroombar.co.nz

Four Kings Sports Bar 7-11 Dixon St fourkings.co.nz

Empire Hotel Lyttelton 9 London St, Lyttelton empirelyttelton.co.nz

Havana Coffee Works 163 Tory St, Te Aro havana..co.nz

Fox & Ferret Palms Palms Shopping Centre, 1 New Brighton Rd, Shirley foxpalms.co.nz

Hawthorn Lounge 82 Tory St, Te Aro hawthornlounge.co.nz J J Murphy & Co 119 Cuba St, Te Aro jjmurphy.co.nz Mac’s Brewbar 4 Taranaki St thebrewerybar.co.nz Matterhorn 106 Cuba St, Te Aro matterhorn.co.nz MIghty Mighty 104 Cuba St, Te Aro mightymighty.co.nz Molly Malones 134 Courtenay Pl, Te Aro mollymalones.co.nz San Francisco Bath House 171 Cuba St, Te Aro sfbh.co.nz Southern Cross Garden Bar 39 Abel Smith St, Te Aro thecross.co.nz Sprig & Fern 342 Tinakori Rd sprigandferntaverns.co.nz

Garden Hotel Bar 110 Marshland Rd, Shirley

gardenhotel.co.nz Pegasus Arms 14 Oxford Terrace pegasus-arms.com Tequila Mockingbird 98 Victoria St tequilamockingbird.co.nz The Brewery 3 Garlands Rd, Woolston casselsbrewery.co.nz The Twisted Hop Pub 616 Ferry Rd thetwistedhop.co.nz Monteiths Brewery Bar 53 Merrin St mbbmerrinst.co.nz No. 4 Bar 4 Mansfield Ave, St Albans no4bar.co.nz

HAMILTON Axces Bar 28 Alexandra St yellow.co.nz

Foundation Bar Maahanga Dr, Te Awa foundationbar.co.nz The Bank Bar & Brasserie Cnr Victoria St & Hood St thebank.co.nz The Cook 7 Cook St, Hamilton East thecook.net.nz Speights Ale House 30 Liverpool St speights-hamilton.co.nz Wonder Horse 236 Victoria St wonderhorse.co.nz

WHANGAREI Dickens Inn 71 Cameron St, Vinetown dickensinn.co.nz Killer Prawn 26-28 Bank St killerprawn.co.nz McCool’s 14 Rust Ave mccools.co.nz pub McMorrisseys Irish Pub 7 Vine St, Vinetown mcmorrisseys.co.nz Parua Bay Tavern 1034 Whangarei Heads Rd, Parua Bay paruabaytavern.co.nz Split Bar Rathbone St splitrestaurant.co.nz s The Old Stone Butter Factory 8 Butter Factory Lane butterfactory.co.nz

DUNEDIN Angus Restaurant & Bar 7 St Andrew St angusdunedin.co.nz Alibi Bar 1 Princes St alibibar.co.nz Captain Cook Tavern 354 Great King St, N Dunedin thecaptaincook.co.nz Luna Bar 314 Highgate Roslyn lunaroslyn.co.nz Manny’s Level 1/91 St Andrew St mannysbar.co.nz Stilettos Revue Bar 319 Princes St stilettos.co.nz

The Apartment 25 Allen St, Te Aro theapartment.co.nz

Bar 101 118 Victoria St bar101.co.nz

The Establishment Cnr of Courtenay Pl and Blair St theestablishment.co.nz

Cock & Bull 1 Cnr Maui & Church St, Pukete cockandbull.co.nz

The Green Man 25 Victoria St thegreenmanpub.co.nz

CBD Corner Pub 26 Hood St cbdpub.co.nz

Lonestar Restaurant & Bar 60 The Esplanade, Inner Kaiti lonestar.co.nz

The Malt House 48 Courtenay Pl, Te Aro themalthouse.co.nz

Easy Tiger Cocktail Bar 186 Victoria St easytigerbar.co.nz

Soho 2 Crawford Rd, Inner Kaiti sohobar.co.nz

GISBORNE Aladdin Bar/First Light Aikido 63 Peel St firstlighttaikido.net

The Poverty Bay Club 57/65 Customhouse St thepovertybayclub.co.nz The Jolly Stockman 3 Saleyards Rd yellow.co.nz Verve Cafe & Bar 121 Gladstone Rd facebook.com

NAPIER Guffle Bar 29A Hastings St, Napier South guffle.co.nz The Bank Sports Lounge 106 Hastings St facebook.com The Dutch at The Bluewater 10 W Quay, Ahuriri thedutch.co.nz The Gintrap Restaurant & Bar 64 W Quay, Ahuriri gintrap.co.nz The Rose Irish Pub 64 Hastings St masonic.co.nz The Thirsty Whale 62 W Quay, Ahuriri thethirstywhale.co.nz

PLYMOUTH Crowded House Bar 93-99 Devon St E crowdedhouse.co.nz Gusto Restaurant, Cafe & Bar Ocean View Parade gustotaranaki.conz Peggy Gordon’s Celtic Bar 58 Egmont St peggygordons.com The Mayfair 69 Devon St W themayfair.co.nz West Bar & Cafe 41 Tukapa St, Westown westbar.co.nz

TAURANGA Imbibe Bar & Restaurant 19 Girven Rd facebook.com Inbargo Bar & Bistro 4 Palmer Pl, Te Puke inbargobarandbistro.co.nz Major Toms Bar 297 Maunganui Rd, Mt Maunganui majortomsbar.com

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754 Against the Odds.indd 18

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TNTFEATURE

AGAINST THEODDS Antipodean travel lovers Jessica Weller and Paul McMahon both came face to face with death, and both got him to pack his bags so they could continue to pack theirs... ››

WORDS CAROLINE GARNAR

Jessica Weller from Auckland, New Zealand, fulfilled the dream of many Antipodeans: she moved to London and used it as a base to travel Europe. But the full-time teacher was diagnosed with breast cancer just four months in – and at the age of just 27. ‘I caught the travel bug after going to South East Asia and had always felt being an explorer was a part of my soul. I had wanted to live in London for as long as I can remember and so many of my friends had done the same. It almost felt like it was a rite of passage. ‘It took me four years after finishing university to get my ducks in a row – considering my career and the ability to earn decent money. But when I had finally done that and saved enough, I was on a plane to London Heathrow. ‘A few months later I had travelled to seven countries and just completed a large trip around Belgium, Poland, Berlin, Croatia and Bosnia. I was exhausted, but put it down to all the travelling. ‘I was about to head off to Austria when I noticed my breasts had become unusually hard and were very sore. My left one felt like there was a large ball of gristle trapped inside and it was veiny on the surface. ‘I was diagnosed on June 10, 2013. I was 27. The cancer was an uncommon but aggressive sub-type of breast cancer called HER2+. The tumour was at stage three and moving into the lymphatic system. I was told that listening to my body had saved my life. ‘I started chemo at the end of July three days shy of my 28th birthday. Surgery and radiation followed and I had targeted therapy up until October 2014 to ensure that the HER2+ cells would not reoccur. I was in treatment for 15 months. ‘In my down moments I felt lost and helpless. The uncertainty was the worst thing, but I managed to get through that by booking trips to Europe and doing plenty of social things in and around London. My treatments were every three weeks so I was able to plan around each one. I constantly had to remind myself to take

each day as it came and live for the day as much as I could. ‘When I was diagnosed I was in the best head space of my life. It wasn’t easy but I still managed to live how I wanted. I was so lucky to have such amazing friends around me and the support of my family, who were all back in New Zealand at the time. ‘Since my diagnosis I continued working as a full-time teacher and have travelled throughout Europe and crossed the USA. Two of my favourite trips were skiing in the French Alps in Tignes and a three-day crazy weekend in Amsterdam. ‘One of my biggest achievements was completing a half marathon – walking – in the middle of treatment and raising more than £1,000 for Breast Cancer Research UK. And I did the full marathon in September 2014. TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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TNTFEATURE

@tnt_downunder

things into perspective. I no longer drink, I am careful about what I eat and I try to rest more. I try hard not to sweat the small stuff. ‘Life is all about living to the best of your ability. Look after your body because it is the only one you have. Take advantage of opportunities when they are presented and take risks. You have everything to gain and nothing to lose in most cases. ‘Travelling opened my eyes to so many possibilities and kept me strong through the tough times. London has a massive place in my heart too and, in a lot of ways, it saved my life.’ To read more about Jessica, you can follow her blog at jessweller.com

Pictures: Getty, Thinkstock, and 50bucksabroad.com/blog

‘I have also done a TED Talk and established a project to travel to conferences about breast cancer and young adult cancers to gather resources and information. I then share this with cancer organisations in New Zealand and help them direct educational programmes at young people. ‘Sharing my story with others through volunteering and public speaking has given me incredible strength and pushes me to advocate for those going through the disease and educate those who do not currently have the appropriate awareness surrounding their own bodies. I wish I had known more about breast cancer before I got diagnosed. I never checked my breasts, although I was pretty aware of what was going on with my body. ‘Cancer should not been seen as a death sentence. Early detection saves lives: I just want to ensure that I am spreading the word so as many people as possible can better look after themselves. ‘My cancer was removed with clear margins in January 2014. So it’s all gone. It will be my two-year ‘cancerversary’ on June 10. I am on yearly checks now for the rest of my life. ‘Sometimes I try to think back to my diagnosis and wonder what would have happened if I didn’t have cancer. I can’t really imagine it. ‘I’ve been inspired by so many. I have had the opportunity to meet some incredible people who have all established names for themselves in non-profit and are making such a difference in terms of cancer awareness education in both the UK and the USA. ‘The friendships I built are those I will always have and London is the place where these relationships started. I have been back in New Zealand now for five months and missing London heaps! It’s so different being back, but I just got offered a full-time teaching role, so looking to click back in here and get settled. ‘I am more inspired than I have ever been – to live. I still have the travel bug so the project helps with that. I go on plenty of New Zealand road trips too. ‘Having such a massive health reality check really puts

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Australian Paul McMahon fell three-and-a-half storeys onto concrete after he slipped from a roof he and three others had climbed to at the end of his birthday party. ‘I had damage to a facial nerve and was not originally able to smile – this is improving, but has taken two years or so. I broke my leg and arm and I was diagnosed with the worst brain injury imaginable,’ he told TNT. Doctors told Paul that he would never be the same again and his future was laced with uncertainty. But Paul tells us they were wrong, as his injury healed in just four to six months. ‘My memory and attention were lost but they have returned, except the memory of the accident. I know that day is lost forever; the brain is a smart cookie!’ Paul tells us that positivity was key in his road to recovery. ‘Brain injuries are incurable through drugs; you alone have the power – and the therapists of course. With normality as my goal I healed quicker. My positive approach and how that affected my healing had doctors baffled. I’m baffled also!’ He decide to write a book about his experience, and to help him recover. ‘I’m not a doctor but I think the book writing exercise healed me faster than usual. Doing something keeps you positive and active. Without my book I am certain depression would have damaged me. This doesn’t mean everyone should write; it means you must do something that keeps you happy such as gardening or travelling.’ Talking of travelling, this is something Paul has continued to do in spite of – or indeed because of – his accident. ‘The fall inspired me to do what I love. I’ve already been to 35 countries at the age of 29; not because my parents are millionaires but purely through the love of it. At 19 I had only been to Australia and New Zealand. Always try to do what you love, then the money comes after... I’ve done a lot of sleeping on couches!’ And what else has happened since his accident? ‘Well it only happened last year, so I’m still looking for work and writing. But there is the story of falling in love, two

TNTFEATURE

weddings, realisations of my life and travelling Australia. So not much really!’ To help Paul get a publisher for his book, like his Facebook page at /paulmcmahonauthor

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Images: supplied

James Rolleston as Hongi in The Dead Lands

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CELEBINTERVIEW

‘I got to explore the world of Toa’ With a name meaning ‘warrior’ in Maori, it seems it was Toa Fraser’s destiny to direct The Dead Lands. TNT talks to the New Zealander about his tribal action epic... INTERVIEW BY CAROLINE GARNAR

Toa Fraser must have felt like ‘the man’ on the set of The Dead Lands. His name, which means ‘warrior’ in Maori, was repeatedly cried from the mouths of strong, wagglingtongued, bulging-eyed, loin-clothed men. “It was a reaI feat of serendipity that I got to make it; I got to explore the world of Toa,” he says of the film, which follows a Maori boy who sets out to avenge the death of his family. “I’m grateful to Matthew Metcalfe, the producer, for offering it to me.” Although not Maori himself, Toa moved to New Zealand at the age of 14, both his daughters are Maori, and his Fijian father was mates with one of the “esteemed innovators of Maori broadcasting”, Tainui Stephens, who ended up being an associate producer on The Dead Lands. “Dad would tell us mythological stories when we were kids – not too far away from the sort of movie we ended up making with The Dead Lands,” Toa tells me. “We really all set out to make a movie in the way our ancestors would have told it if they’d had the tools we have these days.” The Dead Lands is utterly unique in that it’s the first film to be entirely spoken in the Maori language. The weapons used and fight techniques are also authentic, with the actors going through bootcamp prior to filming. Casting must have been a bitch, as not only did the actors have to be Maori, but also pretty kick-ass at it. “There were three really important skills: the language, the fighting ability and the acting ability. Not all the actors had all three, but we worked really hard to make sure we got a cast that could support each other,” Toa shares. The result is an impressive epic offering wellchoreographed battle scenes, a sense of magic, and a fascinating glimpse into Maori culture. I had a chat with Toa to find out more about the making of the film... The cast of The Dead Lands had a lot to learn – the Maori language, how to use the weapons and fighting techniques – as well as upping their fitness and strength. How much time did you dedicate to that? We didn’t have that much time – we did a six-week

Toa Fraser

bootcamp, which encompassed the physical training with strength and fitness stuff, also learning the weaponry and martial arts. But it was quite holistic actually because you learnt a lot about the culture and the language through that anyway. We also cast it in a way so that a lot of that stuff could be cast led. Everybody had different strengths; some were great at the language – Te Kohe Tuhaka [who plays the leader of the rival tribe, Wirepa] and Raukura Turei [who plays Mehe] are both native speakers, but Lawrence Makoare [The Warrior] and James Rolleston [the protagonist Hongi] weren’t as confident. Te Kohe Tuhaka really stood up and became a leader within the group – behind the scenes as much as on screen. Lawrence, though, has a lot of film experience as he’s worked with Peter Jackson on Lord of the Rings and the James Bond movie [Die Another Day]. James is the youngest of the group, but he’s got a very special relationship with the camera and the actors. James is the first actor who I realised I wasn’t really helping; he was doing everything himself. I would do three takes – knowing the first one was the best, but I had to pretend like I’m giving him direction so everybody thinks that I’m in charge (laughs). But James was totally in charge of his thing. So there was a lot of give and take between the actors bringing different qualities to the group. TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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CELEBINTERVIEW

@tnt_downunder

Lands in London – it’s a New Zealand/UK film production, and so we had a lot of very important contributions from UK technicians. When did your fascination with Maori culture begin? For me it’s just part and parcel of being a New Zealander. It’s not a separate thing to me; it’s very much a part of day-today life. One of the great things about New Zealand is that we are increasingly proud of our bi-cultural and multicultural nature.

You’re a big fan of action films, so was there any Van Damme-type stuff in the choreography, or was it true to Maori fighting techniques? James Webster, a young Maori mau rakau practitioner, worked in conjunction with Steve McQuillan the stunt coordinator, so it was kind of a conversation between movie language and mau rakau language. Also, working with a lot of guys around my sort of age, we’d all grown up with JeanClaude Van Damme and Arnold Schwarzenegger movies, so there was a hell of a lot of talk about those kinds of things on set. I suppose the most practical reference, though, was I had a great bit of help from Gareth Evans, the director of The Raid; so there was a nice cross pollination of ideas from Indonesia to New Zealand, which was very helpful. Were any stunt men used? We had stunt doubles for three or four of the main cast, but in the end they ended up doing most of it themselves. Lawrence spectacularly so, because he had a long way to go when he was cast in the movie – he did an extra four weeks of one-on-one training with me and with a personal trainer. He went on a massive journey with peaks and troughs, but he came out on top. In the middle of the movie there’s a fight with something like 170 beats, which is a hell of a lot, and he did most of that stuff himself.

Is Dead Lands based on a Maori legend? No, I believe Glenn Standring wrote it completely originally. Glenn had a fascinating story himself, though: he grew up in the South Island and only in the last five or 10 years he’s found out that he has Maori heritage. I’m putting words in his mouth a bit, but I guess one of the ways that he wanted to explore that is through his own storytelling ability in film. What impression of the Maori culture would you like to leave audiences with? It’s often seen as mystical and romantic, but these men are violent and brutal... For me the most important thing was to make a cool film (laughs). A lot of the cast were friends of mine already and we had a very strong sense of “let’s make an awesome action movie”. The kind of movies we grew up with, but let’s make it in our own way and let’s make it with our own language and with our own weaponry and with our own voice; so it wasn’t really a matter of setting out to make an anthropological ‘this is the culture’-type thing – it was far more a desire to flex our muscles and tell a story like our ancestors would have. We had a very strong sense of responsibility to the culture, though, and to ourselves. We knew that we were going into some quite dark territory in terms of story, but we made the film in a very Maori way. We said ‘karakia’, or prayer, every day and we sang songs a lot – so we were

And were there any injuries? Actually Lawrence buggered his knee up on the very last shot of the movie (Laughs). It was my fault; I was making him run across desert a bit too many times. You moved to New Zealand from the UK aged 14. What are your memories of England? Do you miss it? I love England. My parents and my brother and sister are still here – and my granddad lives in Southend-on-Sea, so I have a very strong connection. My dad’s from Fiji, but he moved to New Zealand in the 50s and then England in the 60s and worked for the BBC, so I grew up very much with a foot in both the Pacific and here. We actually did a lot of post-production for The Dead 24

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able to go into the darkness and come out again into the light every day. In the film The Warrior says, ‘Men teach boys death is noble so they rush into war for their tribes’. Do you think much has changed? On the one hand people can watch The Dead Lands and just see it as an awesome action movie, with cool balletic choreographed play – and that’s one way to look at it. Another way I would venture to look at violence in The Dead Lands is to think about the ambivalence of it. The fact that violence is attractive to young men especially – certainly as a teenager in New Zealand I felt that attraction very strongly myself. So I didn’t want to shirk from the seduction of violence, but at the same time there’s an obvious sinister and very destructive counterbalance to that seduction. I think the film voices that – I don’t think it judges it. Certainly I love the weariness of The Warrior’s sentiment when he says stuff like that. But yeah I think violence is still very much a part of the lives of many different people all around the world, and through telling stories about it I guess we can meditate on it. What were your biggest challenges with this film? Well I don’t speak Mouri so that was a significant challenge for me; to direct actors speaking words I didn’t necessarily understand. But I found that was actually quite freeing. There’s a great story about director John Huston: when he was directing he would turn his back on the actors and shut his eyes, and so he would just judge them on what he heard. And this was a similar sort of thing – without my literal sense I had to read the performance on a much more emotional level. Another great challenge, which I loved, was the physical side of the movie. I committed to supporting Lawrence through his early weeks of bootcamp. And that was one of the hardest things Lawrence and I individually had ever done, but it was very rewarding at the same time. What audiences do you think The Dead Lands will appeal to?

Lawrence Makoare as The Warrior Aw man, that’s a very hard question Caroline. I don’t know... the kind of movies I watched back when I was 23/24, as a young man – Heat and True Lies, Braveheart I guess – I can imagine myself as a 23-year-old loving this movie. How has the response been to the film in New Zealand? Really fantastic and very humbling really. The Maori audiences embraced it – they really owned it. It was something that we were hopeful would happen, and it really did. There’s a statistic that 10% of the whole Box Office in New Zealand was taken up by one cinema in Manukau in South Auckland, which is a particularly urban Maori area. For me that statistic is really gratifying because that was one of our real aspirations – that it would be embraced by young Maoris, and it really has been. What are you most proud of about The Dead Lands? I am proud of many things about the movie, but I guess the first thing that springs to mind is my work with Lawrence. When he came in to audition for the part as The Warrior, I didn’t quite know what movie I wanted to make at that stage. We were thinking it could have been a more JeanClaude Van Damme film and we might have cast a sports star as the action hero. But then Lawrence came in and did his audition – which was one of the more emotional scenes in the movie – and he blew me and Liz Mullane, the casting director, away. It was so beautiful Liz and I both cried, Lawrence cried, and we all sat down on the floor cross legged in a semi-circle and didn’t say anything for a good quarter of hour. When we finally stopped crying and began to talk, the first thing that Lawrence said was, ‘don’t you think the tears will make me look weak?’ And I said, ‘No man I think it makes you stronger’. And in just that tiny bit of dialogue between him and I, we really honed in on the ambivalence and vulnerability that I was hoping to bring to his character. And we knew we had it. We had Lawrence, but we also had a way into the movie for me. The Dead Lands is out now on VOD and DVD TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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CHATROOM

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Jon Tindale

Living in the middle of a New Zealand forest can do strange things to the mind... indeed, not Jon but his caravan tells you all about it in the book, Squashed Possums INTERVIEW CAROLINE GARNAR

Jon, we presume we are talking to you and not your caravan... Tell us about your book, Squashed Possums. Squashed Possums is a non-fiction travel memoir and tribute to the New Zealand bach, or lone caravan, which is as much a Kiwi institution as the All Blacks and chocolate fish. It’s an unusual story. It tells of how I reversed off a cliff one dark night, my close encounters with the local wildlife and how I became entangled with the local Maori world. It’s about how isolation has come to define New Zealand, from the evolution of its unique bizarre bird life, distinct Maori culture and the Kiwi knack for invention. And yes the book is narrated by the caravan itself... As for the title, I was torn between ‘Wild Caravan’ or ‘Squashed Possums’ until music legend David Crosby, of the Byrds, and Crosby, Stills and Nash, suggested I go with ‘Squashed Possums’. So I did.

Where was your favourite place? I would have to say my caravan in the Maungakotukutuku Valley and the nail-biting drive I took each day to get home in one piece, with the majestic view of Kapiti Island. But I also loved Kaikoura for its whale watching and dolphin spotting – and my caravan had a serious crush on Nins Bin, Kaikoura’s no.1 crayfish-selling caravan! I have fond memories of Whanganui, and in particular the dirt track route that follows the river up to Pipiriki, and enjoying the most stunning views before a a meth-induced madman threatened us away with a rifle. The epic volcanic landscape of Tongariro is quite extraordinary too, like walking across one of Jupiter’s moons. And your favourite memory? I would have to choose the simple pleasure of sitting outside my battered caravan at night, switching off all the lights and sitting in absolute darkness, admiring the Milky Way splashed across the night sky. If I could bring one thing back from New Zealand to London, it would be that view. It was aweinspiring in a way Netflix can never manage. Almost all of us live in towns and cities and something very primal is lost unless you return to nature once in a while. Watch out though – too much time alone in the forest and your mind can start to unravel. And don’t forget your torch – I bumped into a tree or two on cloudy nights.

Would you recommend people travel New Zealand by campervan? My caravan’s wheels had long since been replaced by tree stumps, but in its past it had explored New Zealand from tip to toe and met some fruity characters in its time. The caravan recalls some lively journeys with Richard the moa hunter, loner Josh, and an old yogi. They’d all experienced extraordinary things on the road. I guess the benefit of a campervan is that it gives you total freedom to stop where you want, when you want. And when the screaming possums and absolute darkness gets too much, you can stop being a hermit and retreat to Wellington for a flat white, or a beer. What other recommendations would you have for those looking to travel New Zealand? Stay for as long as you can. I was there for seven months and it still wasn’t nearly long enough. You should believe the hype around the South Island – the mountains and lakes are stunning, but don’t underestimate the North Island for its Polynesian roots and breathtaking volcanic landscape. My advice is to get out of the towns and cities as quickly as possible (sorry Auckland). Take some sturdy boots and a tent, or an old puckerood caravan and experience some of the last great wilderness in the western world. It might change your life.

Jon Tindale’s book Squashed Possums is available to buy on Amazon. For more information visit jontindale.com

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Photos: supplied

What made you decide to travel from your home of England to visit New Zealand? Apart from the fact New Zealand is the most beautiful, exciting place in the world? Honestly, when I saw the photos of where I’d be living – a remote caravan in a forest – I fell in love with the idea of living someplace much closer to nature. Everyone thought I was mad to sacrifice my home comforts for an isolated shack with possums for neighbours, but I knew it would be an extraordinary experience. Besides, it was a work exchange and other offers included living with a woman’s husband

in suburban Hamilton, or moving next door to grizzly bears in British Columbia. At least the possums don’t eat you...

Photos: supplied

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TRAVEL NEWS | TOP 5 | OZ TRIP | TOP 10 | LISTINGS WHAT A CROC

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‘Saltwater crocodiles are the largest reptiles on this planet. They can weigh 1,000kg, grow up to seven metres in length, and the pressure in its bite is greater than that in the brakes of a jumbo jet.’ See page 36 to find out more about getting up close and personal with these epic reptiles.

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TRAVELBITES

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Own goal: ‘Backpacker tax’ could cripple Australian economy Australia’s new ‘backpacker tax’ has provoked a furious backlash among industry insiders who fear a travellers’ exodus to New Zealand, Canada and Thailand.

And they claim that in turn could cause major labour shortages in the Australian farm, hotel and bar industries, all of which rely heavily on working holidaymakers. Foreign backpackers on working holidays currently enjoy the same personal tax-free allowance as Australian citizens, meaning they pay no tax on earnings up to $18,200 (£9161). But from July 2016 they will be treated as non-residents for tax purposes – forcing them to pay a swingeing 32.5 per cent tax rate from the first dollar they earn. It means a backpacker who currently pays no tax on annual earnings of $10,000 will in future be expected to cough up $3,250 to the Australian taxman. Although under the current rules backpackers are usually required to work at the same place for six months to qualify for their tax benefits. Treasurer Joe Hockey hopes the new levy – announced in his recent budget – will save the government $540m. However, many of those in the backpacking industry believe it to be a short-sighted measure which will make many travellers think twice about coming to Australia – with disastrous consequences for the country’s economy. Their anger and concern was evident in comments posted on the

Backpacker Trade News website, which is also operated by TNT. One contributor, Thomas O’Brien, claimed the move was poorly thoughtout, and that the impact would be felt across the tourism industry. “I couldn’t believe this when I heard it,” he wrote. “This is going to hit the backpacker tourism sector hard. Backpackers are going to have a lot less ready money to spend, meaning they’ll be even more price-conscious than they already are. They’ll be less likely to splurge on tours and seeing all that the country has to offer, as well as looking to save money on hostels by using more services like Airbnb or going for the cheapest accommodation they can find. This is going to hurt.” Greg wrote: “Canada/New Zealand will be loving it....an extraordinary own goal.” Mike Gay agreed, writing: “New Zealand and Canada will be getting more tourists. New Zealand is already more backpacker friendly than New South Wales anyway. Think again and change this bad thinking.” Chris Brougham said there was “nothing good or smart in this decision for tour operators or anyone in the backpacker adventure industry”. Another writer, David, warned: “When visitor numbers drop and the supply of willing workers falls there will be so many economic losers ranging from

bars, farms (and) labouring companies, all the way through to tour operators and accommodation.” Steve wrote that he had to “shake my head in disgust” at the news. “How can the government ignore how many dollars these very backpackers spend during their long-term stay in Oz and their contribution to the rural economy, providing much-needed labour? (We) should be encouraging more of them, not less!” Another anxious contributor, Andrew, said the tax was a shortsighted attempt to raise revenue from a non-voting group. “Isn’t the name in the visa?” he wrote. “A working holiday visa – not a working, get overcharged and taxed so you cannot enjoy your holiday visa, and leave with a bitter taste in your mouth visa.” Asked for his thoughts, Glen Mintrim, UK managing director of STA Travel, told TNT: “We are disappointed by the proposed changes for our customers as they would have a negative impact on the backpacker sector. It would be a big blow to young people seeking employment from the UK, and, in turn, have a knock-on effect to communities and businesses in Australia who rely on these workers. “We find that a lot of young UK workers in Australia spend their tax-free element while travelling in Australia, and I fear this will encourage an exit to places like Thailand, which provide a low-cost option. “Young people want to see the world and explore. I do not think these changes will stop them. However, it might impact how long they stay in Australia for. Many of our customers use their working holiday as a means to travel in Australia and do not stay put for six months in one job; these customers shouldn’t be put off by these changes.”

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Fremantle Prison YHA opens its doors Fancy spending the night in a prison cell?

It’s a lot more appealing than it sounds at the new Fremantle Prison YHA in Western Australia, which allows guests to sleep in original cells or guards’ cottages in a World Heritagelisted 19th-century jail. Through a heritage-sensitive renovation, the 200-bed Fremantle Prison YHA combines historic charm with purpose-built facilities including brand-new private rooms and dormitory-style accommodation. This one-of-a-kind YHA contains the original fabric of the prison (including walls, floors and cells) and its history is interpreted and displayed throughout the building. Stays cost from just $28 per person per night in dormitory-style accommodation with twin/double en-suite rooms available from $120 per night (family en-suite rooms from $140). For the real deal, twin bed cells are available from $68 per night. Facilities at Fremantle Prison YHA include a self-catering kitchen, large common areas, TV rooms, a laundry and luggage storage, 24 hour reception and travel and tours desk. Other amenities include air conditioning, heating, lockers, a pool table, ping pong and wi-fi, and the hostel is just a few minutes’ walk from the vibrant port city of Fremantle with its untouched

19th-century streetscape, colourful markets, bohemian cafes and buzzing nightlife. The Maritime Museum, historic tram ride and Fishing Boat Harbour are all also nearby. The history of the site dates back to 1829, when the area, dubbed the Swan River Colony, was designated for free-settlers. However, the settlement’s fledgling agricultural industry soon floundered, due to a lack of workers and transport and administrative issues. With the colony’s future looking bleak, convict labour was introduced and Fremantle Prison was created for the newly constituted penal settlement. Originally known as the Convict Establishment, the prison was built in the 1850s with the first convicts occupying the site from 1855, right up until 1991. During this time, hangings, floggings, escapes and riots were etched in history. When the Old Perth Gaol closed, female inmates were moved to Fremantle Prison in 1889. The laundry, bakehouse and cookhouse of the prison were sectioned off to accommodate the women. Extended twice over the years, this women’s prison is what has now become Fremantle Prison YHA.

New tour takes off for Bali The creators of OzIntro and ThaIntro have announced their next big adventure… Balintro! With all of its attributes, from beautiful beaches and ancient temples to crazy nightlife, Bali has long been a popular holiday destination for Aussies. But now you can enjoy bargain flights and a brilliant organised tour with the guys who bring you OzIntro and ThaIntro. With Jetstar now flying direct from Cairns, backpackers in Australia can fly directly to Bali from most Australian cities for around $200. Michael Fotheringham, the owner of OzIntro and ThaIntro, says “With more and more people now realising that Bali is an incredible destination with so many unique and unforgettable experiences, it made sense for us to launch BalIntro next. We’re really excited about BalIntro and the amazing itinerary we’ve created and can’t wait to show everyone this amazing place!” Similar to OzIntro and ThaIntro, he says BalIntro is the perfect way for young travellers to experience Bali for the very first time.

yha.com.au/hostels/wa/perthsurrounds/fremantle-prison-yha/

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TOPFIVE

WINE REGIONS

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Photos: iStock

SPOTLIGHT ON RUTHERGLEN Rutherglen is home to more than 20 wineries, spanning from 150-year-old household names to newcomers to the region just beginning to forge their own history. Most are family owned boutique operations and all share a belief that quality is more important than quantity. Such is the focus on producing great wine that James Halliday, Australia’s most revered wine commentator, has awarded no less than eight Rutherglen wineries a five red star rating, placing them at the forefront of the Australian wine industry. Touring the regions Cellar Doors is a breeze. Quality maps and guides are available from the Rutherglen Wine Experience & Visitor Information Centre, and the wineries are tightly concentrated around the townships of Rutherglen and Wahgunyah, with the furthest afield being a 15-min drive away. Rutherglen will once again be the place to be over the June long weekend for the annual Rutherglen Winery Walkabout. Expect a fun-filled weekend with loads of entertainment and activities happening at the Rutherglen wineries. rutherglenvic.com

Whether you’re a wine novice or connoisseur, a visit to the New World wineries of Australia and New Zealand will have you raising your glass in appreciation. TNT has found the top five wine tours for you to hone your wine knowledge, ensuring you can tell a Pinot Noir from a Cabernet Sauvignon in your sleep, all while getting more than a little merry, naturally. No need to thank us…

HUNTER VALLEY New South Wales’ exquisite Hunter Valley is a must for anyone with even a passing interest in wine. Arguably Australia’s best-known wine region, the area is home to some of the country’s oldest wine-making families and the famed Hunter Valley Semillion, a dry white wine. TNT recommends you enjoy the beautiful produce of the region on the fantastic Food and Wine Lovers Tour with Two Fat Blokes (yep). You’ll begin the day with pastries and a private tasting of sparkling reds and whites at Peterson Champagne House, before moving on to the cellar at Brokenwood Wines, awarded Best Red Wine in the World

in 2001. Sample produce straight from the barrel, followed by an outstanding long, lazy lunch at the tour company’s own restaurant and delicatessen. Later, visit award-winning McWilliams Mount Pleasant Wines for a ‘make your own wine’ exercise, creating your own unique blend, complete with a souvenir bottle to take home. Two Fat Blokes can tailor the tour to your wishes, so if you’d like a scenic trip with beautiful views, are intent on finding some kangaroos to photograph or want to discover the finest bottle of wine from that hidden boutique, they will ensure your trip is what you wish for. This light-hearted tour is great for any wine lover, priced at $249 per person. Tight on time? Try their half-day snapshot, which includes transport to three boutique wineries and a cheese and wine experience. Whichever tour you sign up for, you’re guaranteed a top time as Two Fat Blokes have friends in most wineries and restaurants and can usually pull some strings to ensure you will have an experience at any venue beyond what you can expect if you were to visit without a recommendation. twofatblokes.com.au

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TOPFIVE

BROOME

MARLBOROUGH

Sign up for a fantastic trip with Broome Trike Tours and taste ‘sunshine in a bottle’. Hit the highway for a wild ride on a three-wheeled hog through Kimberley Country, passing the Bird Observatory, black termite mounds, humble boab trees and the Malcolm Douglas Wilderness Wildlife Park. Visit The Mango Place/Winery and experience an educational commentary on the production of mango wine and port, followed by a wine tasting as well as ice creams, chutneys, jerky, smoothies and fudges – all made from mangoes. Then it’s back to Broome with a ‘mystery stop’ along the way before riding on world-famous Cable Beach for a photo of you high on the hog with the ocean view as a backdrop. broometriketours.com.au mangowine.com.au

Explore Kiwiland’s famous Marlborough Region, associated worldwide with the fruity and refreshing Sauvignon Blanc. Stop at five glorious vineyards, savouring a number of heavenly Sauvignon. However this tour isn’t only about Sauvignon Blanc wines… You’ll get to try all the varieties the region has to offer in the wineries ranging from dry to sweet whites and reds so, if you’re not a Sauvignon Blanc fan, fear not! There’s also the chance to visit the Makana Chocolate Shop. Wine and chocolate? Now that’s what we call a match made in heaven. This fun half-day tour with fizzy wine is priced from $55 per person (winter) and $65 per person (summer). bubblygrape.co.nz/tours

Photos: Two Escapegoat Adventures, Bubbly Grape and iStock

4 MCLAREN VALE

WAIHEKE ISLAND

Spend a fantastic day cycling the McLaren Vale in South Australia, one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world. Cycle the Kidman Trail on this incredible tour with Escapegoat Adventures through a number of vineyards, stopping off at local wineries to sample the products. Pause for a lunch of delicious local produce and perhaps buy a bottle or two to take home. In the afternoon you and the rest of the group will get to decide your final visits – maybe a micro-brewery, another winery, a cafe/chocolate stop for a little desert, or if it’s really warm perhaps a swim stop at one of the beautiful beaches that fringe the Vale… escapegoat.com.au

From Auckland catch the ferry across the harbour, arriving on the stunning Waiheke Island to experience incredible scenery, spectacular vistas and colourful vineyards. Discover beautiful Waiheke on this excellent day tour, priced at $110 per person. Visit three incredible vineyards and taste at least 14 top-quality Waiheke Island wines. Enjoy a leisurely lunch before hopping on the ferry back to the big smoke. Fancy a longer stay? Try the indulgent two-day tour, which includes a night in a luxurious hotel-apartment, allowing you to enjoy leisurely tastings at four of the island’s top vineyards plus two other experiences, from visiting the local micro-brewery, an award-winning olive estate or an additional vineyard. waihekeislandwinetours.co.nz/tours TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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WIN TICKETS TO AN EPIC WILD EXPLORER TOUR & CRUISE W Some wise old hippy once told us that you should “focus on the journey, rather than the destination, man” and we tend to agree – especially when it comes to getting ‘out back’. Getting off the beaten track is the best way to see the real country, meet the locals and see the kinds of sights that you’d otherwise pass over (quite literally if you’re travelling by plane). That’s where Sydney Out Back comes in, and we have teamed up with them to give five pairs of tickets away for one of their day tours. You and a mate can explore Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park, Australia’s second oldest National Park and home to Australia’s most concentrated collection of Aboriginal Heritage sites. Also enjoy a 2.5-hour scenic cruise on their 52ft motor catamaran through pristine National Park bushland and waterways. The cruise includes Aboriginal cultural

demonstrations and Aboriginal rock art sites only accessible by water. Visit West Head Lookout with breathtaking ocean views over Broken Bay, Lion Island, Palm Beach (otherwise known as Summer Bay, yes Home & Away fans), Pittwater and the Central Coast. Experience an Aboriginal Welcome to Country ceremony and ochre painting. Visit an Aboriginal Heritage site which holds some of the most important rock engravings in Australia. Includes morning tea, coffee and gourmet bush tucker inspired lunch. Bookings must be made by calling 1300 307 634 (for calls made within Australia) or +612 9099 4249 (outside Australia). For more, visit facebook.com/pages/ Sydney-Out-Back Log on to tntdownunder.com for further details and to enter. sydneyoutback.com.au

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WILDERNESS AND ABORIGINAL $3,600SYDNEY OUT BACK SE WITH Total prizes worth over

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Photos: Peter Eve & Tourism NT, Territory Expeditions. This article has been updated from the TNT archives. Original feature by Emma Salkild

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That’s not a knife... Saltwater crocs, Aboriginal rock art and kangaroo meat on the barbie – you don’t get much more Crocodile Dundee than Kakadu “The two crocs are headed for each other,” our captain says. Was I about to witness a crocodile fight? Images flash through my mind of monsters wrestling with snapping jaws and thrashing tails, only metres away. It turns out, however, when wild crocodiles are left to their own devices they are more strategic and stealthy than the crazed, bloodthirsty stereotypes. Right now all I can see is the top of a flat, scaly head and one golden glistening eye. Suddenly, it vanishes without the slightest ripple on the water’s surface. ”Like a hot knife through butter,” our captain says. She has a devilish sense of humour and keen eyesight. In the last hour we’ve seen more crocs than I can keep track of and only one ‘logadile’. She gently eases the boat over to the direction of the hidden predator. “Jesus,” I hear an Irish voice say behind me. “We’re floating over it.” This is a frightening thought when you consider the boat’s 8m length – the largest recorded saltwater crocodile would have been a serious match for it, measured at a whopping 6.3m. Add to that the numerous attacks in the area - the most recent one being when a croc pulled a fisherman from his boat in June 2014 – and it’s enough to make your stomach flip. The Corroboree Billabong has the largest concentration of saltwater crocs in the world and is the first stop on our threeday 4WD tour of Kakadu. It’s also the first day of the dry season (May-Oct) and abundant with lush, green waterlilies. Birds of all shapes, sizes and colours fly overhead and frequent the banks. On our way back the boat operator spots a sea eagle swooping for fish. Its 1.5 metre wingspan is impressive but this is just a juvenile learning to hunt. We eagerly watch it attempting to catch prey. When it finally emerges from the water with a bloodied whitefish in its talons, the entire group erupts into applause. Elated, we head back to the Territory Expeditions truck to continue our tour.

Up in Ubirr I call our vehicle a truck because van or bus doesn’t cut it. This is a beast. There is no pleasant toilet located at the rear or little TV hanging up the front. This vehicle means business. It can go across the bumpy, unsealed dirt roads and plough through muddy waters. In other words, it’s the ideal way to reach the most remote, beautiful places in Kakadu. And leading us is our tour guide Barney. He has spent the last 10 years working in Kakadu and knows it like the back of his hand. A relieving thought for this city mouse. Passing through the gates of Kakadu, we learn it’s the same size as Belgium and the largest national park in the world. This World Heritage Area is currently resident to six aboriginal tribes, where three different languages are spoken. The first place on the agenda is probably its most world-

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Postcard perfect in a Kakadu waterhole renowned. Ubirr, which is known for its aboriginal rock art, and also happens to be Barney’s favourite place in Kakadu. He leads us down the track to an overhanging rock that juts out three metres above our heads. It is covered in hundreds of paintings and drawings. This rock art is estimated to be up to 8,000 years old. There are handprints, animals, fish and people. The magnitude of gazing at work created by the oldest continuing culture in the world is so profound that we spend a good amount of time gaping in wonder. Barney guides us up a 250-metre steep climb to the Ubirr lookout which has 360-degree views of the floodplains spanning out as far as the eye can see. He instructs us to find a corner by ourselves, sit quietly and take it all in. Rolling my eyes, it’s as though I’ve been told to do something lame by a dorky schoolteacher. Sitting on a flat bit of rock to watch the horizon I instantly become so aware of my surroundings. I can hear singing birds and the soft sounds of travelling winds. The contrast of green bush, orange boulders and clear blue skies is uniquely striking. My mind wanders and I begin to daydream. And if ever there was a place to dream it’s here, overlooking Arnhem Land. I feel as though I could stay here forever or melt into the rock I’m sitting on and become a part of the breathtaking landscape. Without a doubt, this is a special, spiritual place. Consider my eyes un-rolled. We set up for the night at Cooinda Campground. Dinner is served by candlelight. Barney has prepared a degustation spread of kangaroo, crocodile and good ol’ Aussie beef snags. After the tasting plate – yes, crocodile does taste like a mix between fish and chicken – we sit around the campfire while Barney patiently teaches us to play the didgeridoo. To the glee of the rest of the tour group, my attempts sound like farts. A young Australian couple pass around their bag of 38

marshmallows. As a possum bounces by, almost in time to the beat of Barney’s didgeridoo, I’m roasting a marshmallow in one hand and sipping a Coopers beer in the other. It can’t get much better than this.

Chasing waterfalls The didgeridoo wakes us up at 6am. Today is a day for hiking and swimming – my fingers are crossed I don’t meet a croc during one of our dips. Everyone is pretty quiet. Dawn may be a time for humans to be sleepy, but the wildlife outside is alive with activity. All of a sudden the truck lurks to a stop and does a U-turn. On the side of the road a lizard sits serenely, chin faced to the sky, catching some morning rays. Seeing Barney it runs a metre. The frill-necked lizard moves quickly but it also resembles a middle-aged woman awkwardly flailing about in fear. Carefully Barney picks it up and as he does, its neck pops out like opening a cocktail umbrella. We’re all reduced to fits of giggles. There is so much wildlife in Kakadu. Every time I board the truck it feels as though I’m going on safari. Barney turns off a sealed road and onto a small dirt track. It’s crazy he spotted it as there are no signs and the opening to the road is almost camouflaged into the bush. A few bumpy kilometres later we come to a small, cleared space. Again, there is no signage. In fact, there’s not a peep of civilisation at all. The scenery is pretty bleak: wispy bits of dead grass and some remnants of burnt bush. It’s a 45-minute hike through a small track until we get to boulders. We scramble over them, passing a foot-long golden orb spider on the way. The dry terrain starts to turn greener and lusher. When we emerge from the path we are welcomed by Motor Car Falls. A large, flat rock pokes out over a dazzling

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DO SOMETHING SIMILAR 3 DAY 4WD KAKADU UNLEASHED Explore one of the Northern Territory’s most picturesque regions on this three-day journey within Australia’s largest national park – Kakadu. Be welcomed to this historic land by the Limilngan–Wulna people, plunge into refreshing waterholes, keep an eye out for Kakadu’s most leathery residents, hike to the base of a 200-metre tall waterfall and end each day by camping out under the stars. From $315pp Book it: tnttoursearch.com/tours/3-day-4wd-kakaduunleashed

CRAZY FOR KAKADU From swimming in stunning waterholes in Litchfield, to climbing atop waterfalls to survey the never-ending surroundings, we will embark on informative riverine walks, learn from the locals about Aboriginal culture, and see ancient Aboriginal rock art. Of course, no visit to Kakadu would be complete without a sunrise cruise on the wetlands, ideal for viewing the abundant bird life while spotting enormous estuarine (saltwater) crocodiles. Apparently, the best way to wrestle a crocodile (and win) is to wrap an elastic band around the big fella’s jaw. That must be why all women carry a hair tie on their wrist – it’s croc protection 101. Girls are so smart. From $315pp. Book it: tnttoursearch.com/tours/crazy-forkakadu-2015-16

3 DAY 4WD KAKADU/ LITCHFIELD EXPLORER A journey through Kakadu and Litchfield National Park means scenic sunset vistas, incredible wildlife and a full insight into Australia’s Top End. Meet the leathery scaled reptiles lurking below the waters of the Mary River Wetlands, view ancient Aboriginal cave art and hike to some gloriously isolated natural environments. Travelling by 4x4 and camping out under the stars is without a doubt the best way to gain a true-blue experience in the Australia’s expansive Outback. From $400pp. Book it: tnttoursearch.com/tours/3-day-4wd-kakadulitchfield-explorer

4 DAY KAKADU KATHERINE LITCHFIELD SAFARI Cascading tropical waterfalls and crocodile inhabited waterways welcome you in this Kakadu and Litchfield 4x4 Safari. Learn the ancient traditions of the LimilnganWulna people on an adventure into Woolna Country, cruise the croc-inhabited waters of the Mary River Wetlands, hike to Urbirr to see ancient Aboriginal rock art on display and marvel at the beautiful Jim Jim Falls. A 4x4 safari through Kakadu is the perfect way to see the very best of this diverse and rich landscape. From $590pp. Book it: tnttoursearch.com/tours/4-day-kakadukatherine-litchfield-safari TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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waterhole surrounded by orange cliff faces. A waterfall drops down the middle of the cliff. It’s postcard perfect and completely deserted save for us. Barney assures us it’s croc-free and shows us the safe place for diving in. Quickly discarding my sweaty shirt it’s mere moments before I plunge into refreshing water. A group of us swim over to the base of the waterfall taking it in turns for it to massage our backs. This is a hidden gem. In the last 24 hours we’ve only seen the tip of the iceberg when it comes to Kakadu, but we’ve hit the jackpot with Ubirr and Motor Car Falls.

A cathedral of poo You know something is a rare occurrence when your guide frantically scrambles for his camera. Our truck comes to a grinding halt as a herd of wild buffalo cross in front of us. Buffalo are usually only sighted once a year in Kakadu. We’ve just seen three adults and a baby – that’s four years’ worth in one hit. Donkeys, a wallaby, a goanna and a baby dingo also feature on today’s safari. No one is as enthusiastic, however, when it comes to spotting insects. Kakadu has 10,000 species of bugs and a popular attraction is the termite mounds. It’s with a mix of curiosity and revulsion that we exit the truck to visit them. Barney says the cathedral-like structures are made up of plant materials, clay and their own faeces. As I stand next to a monolithic tower almost three times my height, it occurs to me I’m posing next to a giant mound of bug poo infested with thousands of creepy crawlies. Wicked! All good things must come to an end. After a whirlwind, jampacked experience we get to Buley Rockholes and Florence Falls in Litchfield. These swimming places are like the theme-park rides of the Top End. We’re greeted with flowing rapids, strong currents, mini whirlpools and loud thundering waterfalls. I sit awkwardly under a gushing flood of water that almost washes me away. Gripping onto an edge of a rock I think if I were ‘to go’ in Kakadu, I’d probably prefer being taken by a crocodile after all. Better yet, have two crocs fight over me. That would be one hell of a way to leave the Top End. ❚ TNT joined Territory Expeditions’ three-day Kakadu 4WD tour. Departing three times a week during the dry season (May-October) it costs from $570. territoryexpeditions.com.au

Take a trip outback with Territory Expeditions

BE A KAKADU SMART ARSE At 20,000 square kilometres, Kakadu National Park is as big as Wales, and even if you cover every inch of road and track, you will still see less than one per cent of the park. The park has more species of lizard than the whole of Europe. It is also home to 2,000 species of plant and 10,000 species of insect. At the end of the dry season in October the park becomes a bird nerd’s paradise, with more tits, cocks and boobies than a Jenna Jameson flick. At Mamukala bird sanctuary you can see black crested cockatoos – worth a tempting US$40,000 on the black market. Saltwater crocodiles are the largest reptiles on this planet. They can weigh 1,000kg, grow up to seven metres in length, and the pressure in its bite is greater than that in the brakes of a jumbo jet.

Termite mounds

Kakadu has been inhabited for 50 millennia, and is home to more than 5,000 aboriginal rock art sites, some of which date back 20,000 years.

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WIN A LOKA EAST COAST HOP-ON HOP-OFF ADVENTURE!! TNT Downunder are offering 2 lucky winners the chance to win a LOKA East Coast hop-on hop-off adventure! Choose between a MICK Sydney > Cairns pass (worth $990) or a TREV Cairns > Sydney pass (worth $670)! Loka is the world’s first Flexible Travel Collective; experience real Australia at its best with unique, authentic experiences such as an Indigenous Rainforest Camp, a Cattle Station Experience, and a night at a surf camp right on the beach. Hang out with your Aussie guide and other like-minded travellers on your East Coast adventure! Passes are valid for 12 months from prize draw and valid for 6 months once you’ve commenced travel.

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WINNER CRADLE MOUNTAIN-LAKE ST CLAIR NATIONAL PARK, TASMANIA Lucy Warner, Cheltenham, UK TELL US MORE The photo doesn’t do this shot justice – you’ll just have to go yourself and experience the magic that is Tassie.

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Send high-res (300 dpi) jpegs with name, age, nationality and a description to: lisa.ferron@ tntmagazine.com. Photos are judged by the TNT team at their own discretion. Photos may also be placed on TNT’s Facebook page. For terms and conditions, see tntdownunder.com.

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TOPTEN

QUEENSLAND SOUTH AUSTRALIA

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South Australia is often overlooked by travellers who tend to favour New South Wales and the Northern Territory, Queensland and Western Australia (so basically everywhere else). But South Australia should not be forgotten, with its unforgettable wine, underground towns, thrilling wildlife and festivals galore. Here’s the skinny on the top 10 things to see and do in this underrated state.

ADELAIDE

Photos: iStock

Of all Australia’s state capitals, Adelaide – voted the most liveable city in Australia on more than one occasion – arguably enjoys the most beautiful of settings. Nestled between the majestic Adelaide Hills on one side and the crystal blue waters of the Gulf St Vincent on the other, few cities can match Adelaide for natural beauty. It is also fast becoming the culinary capital of Australia – lying between some of the country’s best vineyards and pristine natural coastline full of fresh seafood, the level of produce on offer is up there with the best to be found anywhere in the country.

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TOPTEN

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

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COOBER PEDY

FESTIVAL FEVER

Translated from its Aboriginal origins, Cooper Pedy means ‘white man’s hole in the ground’ – a fairly apt description as more than half of the town’s population live underground to escape the scorching heat. Coober Pedy is Australia’s best-known outback town as the spot is in fact the ‘Opal Capital of the World’ – a fact represented by one of Coober Pedy’s better-known above-ground monuments, The Big Winch. Indeed, the identity of the whole town is closely linked to the mining of opals with some of its bestknown attractions revolving around the mining of these precious stones. Worth a visit to explore under the surface.

Not for nothing is South Australia known as the ‘Festival State’, with the Adelaide Fringe Festival being one of the biggest in the country. The Fringe’s phenomenal success lies in its openness – both in terms of its acts as well as its venues, which are spread throughout Adelaide’s CBD. The state also offers internationally renowned food and wine and music festivals – the Gourmet Traveller and WOMAdelaide anyone? Then there’s Santos Tour Down Under, a festival of international cycling which also doubles as part of the competitive world tour.

FLINDERS RANGES

KANGAROO ISLAND

Whether you’re looking for an adventure or some down time, the Flinders Ranges, which are the largest mountain range in South Australia, have it all. Unwind with a cold drink in hand while staying in one of the luxury eco-villas after a day’s work on an outback station, or explore the bush-walking tracks spread across the rugged landscape, with the opportunity to engage with the Aboriginal culture by exploring ruins and visiting ghost towns. The most interesting of these is Dawson, which comes complete with everybody’s morbid favourite, a cemetery.

Australia’s third largest island offers a wonderfully picturesque getaway full (as the island’s name suggests) of kangaroos – but also so much more. Take the 45-minute ferry from the mainland and join KI Adventures (kiadventuretours.com.au) to hit up the best sites, including Remarkable Rocks and Admirals Arch, watch sea lions basking in the sun, see kangaroos, koalas and loads more awesome Aussie wildlife. You can also go sandboarding in the Little Sahara and chill on the beach. It’s an absolute Aussie must do. Hop to it!

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2 Day Wilderness Explorer

SAV E W IT H O U R SP EC W IN TE R PR IC E FR O M IA L

399pp*

(Normally $436pp)

The wildlife, wonder and beauty of Kangaroo Island...

• Departing Adelaide with pic k-up & set-down from selected hostels • Return coach & ferry transf ers • Rob’s Shearing & Sheep Do gs, Emu Ridge Eucalyptus Distillery, Seal Bay , Little Sahara sand dunes, Vivonne Bay, Ha nson Bay Koala Sanctuary, Flinders Chase Na tio Remarkable Rocks and Admir nal Park, • Accommodation at Vivon als Arch ne Bay FREE use of kayaks, bikes and Lodge with • Meals: 1 breakfast, 2 lunche WiFi s and 1 BBQ dinner

Call 08 8202 8678 or visit kiadventuretours.com.au

*Price valid to 31 August 2015 . Check website for departu re dates. Price is based on dor mitory accommodation with shared bathroom facilities. Upgrades to private rooms are available. ABN 69 007 122 367.

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TOPTEN

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

@tnt_downunder

MURRAY RIVER

LAKE EYRE

Many parts of South Australia’s Murray Basin highlight the river’s once great majesty – one can still ride the steam powered paddleboats, which have cruised up and down the Murray for the best part of 200 years. The river also provides some great fishing spots where anglers can try and catch the readily abundant schools of European carp. Wakeboarding and water-skiing are popular water activities, or if you’re with a group, renting a houseboat is an affordable and fun way of exploring the Murray’s winding meanders.

Take a guided tour to Lake Eyre around midday and you will experience a true phenomenon: the lake surface can often become very flat and so the surface reflects the sky in a way that leaves both the horizon and water surface virtually impossible to define. While Lake Eyre remains the most famous and best known there are a number of other similar salt lakes in the surrounding area, including Eyre’s little brother Lake Hart, which is located very conveniently right next to the Stuart Highway. These large, backing salt flats have become something of an Australian outback icon.

PORT LINCOLN

THE WINE REGIONS

YORKE PENINSULA

Located on the South Australian coast, Port Lincoln can be described as a blue water playground for yachting, scuba diving, shark cage diving – check out sharkcagediving.com. au – water sports and tuna fishing in particular. Port Lincoln also offers wine tasting tours at local wineries including Boston Bay and Delacolline Estate. For the outdoorsy type there is Lincoln National Park, which covers the southern tip of the Eyre Peninsula, where you can engage in bushwalking, camping and fishing.

Adelaide Hills, Barossa and Clare Valley – aka South Australia’s wine regions – are known internationally as some of Australia’s best. They also offer some of the most varied grapes including Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Riesling, Chardonnay and even the odd Sauvignon Blanc. Only a short drive from the state capital, The Adelaide Hills are perhaps the best place to start exploring the region’s wine gems, while Barossa is one of Australia’s oldest wine producing regions and Clare Valley is one of the smaller ones – good for a day trip.

If you want to get out of the city in search of sun, sea and sand, the Yorke Peninsula is the place to go. Being just over an hour’s drive from Adelaide, the postcard-worthy beaches will take your breath away. With a distinctive 700km of coastline, it’s easy to find the perfect beach spot and let your worries melt away. The Yorke Peninsula can also brag about having some of Australia’s greatest surfing beaches with many wellknown surfing and body boarding competitions held over there.

Photos:: SATC and iStock

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SAIL DIVE SNORKEL KAYAK EXPLORE BEACHWALK SWIM BUSHWALK PLAY RELAX ECO FUN ADVENTURE WHITEHAVEN BEACH GREAT BARRIER REEF WHITSUNDAY ISLANDS AUSTRALIA

PH 1300 653 100

MINI

TOUR

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OZLISTINGS TOUR FIRMS Adventure Tours Australia-wide tours 1800 068 886, adventuretours.com.au Airliebeach.com Whitsundays packages 1800 677 119, airliebeach.com Autopia Tours Tours around Victoria 03 9391 0261, autopiatours.com.au Awesome Adventures Oz Whitsundays packages 1800 293 7663, awesomeoz.com Tours in Tasmania Tours around Tasmania 1800 777 103, tourstascom.au Bunyip Tours Tours around Victoria 1300 286 947, bunyiptours.com

linking Adelaide, Alice Springs & Melbourne 1800 661 177, groovygrape.com.au

Ocean Rafting Whitsundays tours 07 4946 6848, oceanrafting.com

Heading Bush Adelaide to Alice Springs outback tours 1800 639 933, headingbush.com

Oz Experience Hop on-hop off Australia-wide tours 1300 300 028, ozexperience.com

Jump Tours Tours around Tasmania 0422 130 630, jumptours.com

Surfcamp Sydney to Byron surfing tours 1800 888 732, surfcamp.com.au

Kakadu Dreams Kakadu tours 1800 813 266, kakadudreams.com.au

The Rock Tour Red centre tours 1800 246 345, therocktour.com.au

Kangaroo Island Adventure Tours Adelaide to KI tours 08 8202 8678, kiadventuretours.com.au

Topdeck Tours covering all of Oz 1300 886 332, topdeck.travel

Kangaroo Island Wildlife Adventures South Australia 1800 786 386, surfandsun.com.au

Cool Dingos Fraser Island Tours 1800 072 555, cooldingotour.com

Whitsundays Sailing Adventures Whitsundays sailing 07 4940 2007 WhitsundaysSailingAdventures. com.au

Explore Whitsundays Whitsundays packages 1800 675 790, explorewhitsundays.com Groovy Grape Getaways Tours

Mojosurf Sydney to Byron surfing tours 1800 113 044, mojosurf.com

RENTAL FIRMS Apollo Motorhomes 1800 777 779, apollocamper.com Mighty Cars and Campers (Formerly Backpacker Campervan Rentals) 1800 809 944 mightycampers.com.au Boomerang Cars 0414 882 559, boomerangrentacar.net Hippie Camper 1800 777 779, hippiecamper.com

Under Down Under Tours Tours around Tasmania 1800 064 726, underdownunder.com.au

Spaceships 1300 132 469, spaceshipsrentals.com.au

Western Xposure WA tours 08 9414 8423, westernxposure.com.au Wilderness 4WD Adventures Top end tours 1800 808 288, wildernessadventures.com.au Wildlife Tours Tours around Victoria 1300 661 730, wildlifetours.com.au

Kings Cross Car Market For buying and selling vehicles. 110 Bourke St, Woolloomooloo. 02 9358 5000, carmarket.com.au

Standbycars.com 1300 789 059, standbycars.com Travellers Auto Barn 1800 674 374, travellers-autobarn.com.au Wicked Campers 1800 246 869, wickedcampers.com

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TRANSPORT Greyhound Australia Buses around Australia. 13 20 30, greyhound.com.au Jetstar Airline. 131 538, jetstar.com.au Premier Transport Group Buses along the east coast. 13 34 10, premierms.com.au Qantas Airline. 13 13 13, qantas.com.au Regional Express Airline. 13 17 13, rex.com.au Spirit of Tasmania Ferries to Tasmania. 03 6336 1446, spiritoftasmania.com Tiger Airways Airline. 03 9999 2888, tigerairways.com Redline Coaches For getting around Tasmania. 03 6336 1446, tasredline.com.au Virgin Australia Airline. 13 67 89, virginaustralia.com

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NSWLISTINGS

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SYDNEY STAY Base Sydney 477 Kent St. CBD.

SYDNEY MUSIC

STAY HERE

Hordern Pavillion playbillvenues.com Oxford Art Factory oxfordartfactory.com

Big Hostel 212 Elizabeth St. CBD. 02 9281 6030 bighostel.com

Sydney Opera House sydneyoperahouse.com

Bounce Budget Hotel 28 Chalmers St. CBD.

The Annandale annandalehotel.com

Easy Go Backpackers 752 George St. CBD. 02 9211 0505, easygobackpackers.com.au Eva’s Backpackers 6-8 Orwell Street Kings Cross 02 9358 2185, evasbackpackers.com.au City Resort Hostel 103-105 Palmer St. Woolloomooloo 02 9357 3333 cityresort.com.au Sydney Central YHA 11 Rawson Place. CBD. Westend Backpackers 412 Pitt St. CBD. Boomerang Backpackers 141 William Street, Kings Cross. 02 8354 0488, boomerangbackpackers.com Dlux Hostel 30 Darlinghurst Rd, Kings Cross. 1800 236 213 dluxbudgethotel.com.au Kangaroo Bak Pak 665 South Dowling St. Surry Hills. 02 9318 0902 Avalon Beach Hostel 59 Avalon Pde, Avalon Beach. 02 9918 9709, avalonbeach.com.au Bondi Shores Level 1. 283 Bondi Road, Bondi bondishores.com.au Bondi YHA 63 Fletcher Street. Tamarama. yha.com.au Lamrock Lodge 19 Lamrock Ave. Bondi. 02 9130 5063, lamrocklodge.com

The Enmore enmoretheatre.com.au The Metro metrotheatre.com.au

25 Childe Street, Belongil Beach. Beds from $22 The old Belongil Beach House was spruced up a few years back and is a great place to stay. Cheap, clean, comfortable and seconds from the beach. All you need.

Byron Bay

byronbeachresort.com.au

Glebe Point YHA 262-264 Glebe Point Road. Glebe. yha.com.au

Sydney Aquarium Darling Harbour. sydneyaquarium.com.au

Boardrider Backpacker Rear 63, The Corso, Manly. 02 9977 6077 boardrider.com.au

Sydney Wildlife World Darling Harbour. sydneywildlifeworld.com.au

The Bunkhouse 35 Pine St, Manly. 1800 657 122, bunkhouse.com.au

Taronga Zoo Mosman. taronga.org.au

Manly Backpackers 24-28 Raglan St. Manly. 02 9977 3411 manlybackpackers.com.au

Waves Surf School wavessurfschool.com.au

Cammeray Gardens 66 Palmer St, North Sydney. 02 9954 9371 sydneyboardinghouse.com

Terrigal Beach YHA 9 Ocean View Dr, Terrigal. yha.com.au The Entrance Backpackers 2/56 The Entrance Road, The Entrance, 2261 02 4334 5005 theentrancebackpackers.com Skydive Central Coast Warnervale. skydivethecentralcoast.com.au

The Arts Factory 1 Skinners Shoot Rd. Nomads Byron Bay Lawson Lane. Byron Bay YHA 7 Carlyle St. Skydive the Beach Byron Bay Kingsford Smith Park, Ballina 1800 302 005 skydivethebeachbyronbay.com

COFFS HARB Coffs Harbour YHA 51 Collingwood St. Harbour City Holiday Park 123 Pacific Highway

coffsholidaypark.com.au Hoey Moey Backpackers 80 Ocean Pde hoeymoey.com.au Solitary Islands Marine Resort North St, Wooli NSW 1462 1800 003 031 solitaryislandsresort.com.au

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

SYDNEY DO

Maritime Museum Darling Harbour. anmm.gov.au My Sydney Detour Unique city tours. mysydneydetour.com

Aegean Coogee Lodge 40 Coogee Bay Rd. Coogee. 04 0817 6634, aegeancoogee.com.au

Powerhouse Museum Darling Harbour. powerhousemuseum.com.au

Surfside Backpackers 186 Arden Street. Coogee. 02 9315 7888, surfsidebackpackers.com.au

CENTRAL COAST Newcastle Beach YHA 30 Pacific St, Newcastle. yha.com.au

Byron Bay Accom 02 6680 8666, byronbayaccom.net

Manly Surf School Manly Beach. 02 9977 6977, manlysurfschool.com

Oceanworld Manly West Esplanade. oceanworld.com.au

Coogee Beachside 178 Coogee Bay Rd, Coogee. 02 9315 8511, sydneybeachside.com.au

Blue Mountains YHA 207 Katoomba St, Katoomba. yha.com.au

Backpackers Inn 29 Shirley St 1800 817 696 backpackersinnbyronbay.com.au

Wake Up! 509 Pitt St, CBD.

Lochner’s Guesthouse 27 Paul St. Bondi. 02 9389 5421

Coogee Beach House 171 Arden St. Coogee. 02 9665 1162, coogeebeachhouse.com

BLUE MTNS

BYRON BEACH RESORT

BYRON BAY Backpackers Holiday Village 116 Jonson St 1800 350 388, byronbaybackpackers.com.au

Skydive the Beach Wollongong. skydivethebeach.com Sydney Olympic Park Darling Harbour. sopa.nsw.gov.au Sydney Tower and Skywalk 100 Market St, CBD. sydneytowereye.com.au Sydney Harbour Bridge The Rocks. bridgeclimb.com

JINDABYNE This small town in south-east NSW, four hours south of Sydney near the Snowy Mountains and overlooking Lake Jindabyne, is an adventure junkie’s delight. It is most well known for its accessibility to ski resorts in Kosciuszko National Park including Thredbo and Perisher. Pricey ski holidays are made more affordable by staying in the budget group lodging that Jindabyne has to offer and then travelling the 30 minutes up the mountain daily. Jindabyne is a hub of extreme sports with several board and equipment shops, rental stores and a skate park. In the summer months it’s also a great destination for fishing, water skiing and wakeboarding on the lake.

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TASLISTINGS PORT ARTHUR

HOBART STAY Backpackers Imperial Hobart 138 Collins St. 03 6229 5215, centralbackpackers.com.au

Port Arthur Historic Ghost Tours 1800 659 101, portarthur.org.au

Hobart Hostel 41 Barrack St. 1300 252 192, hobarthostel.com

LAUNCESTON

Montgomery’s YHA 9 Argyle St. Narrara Backpackers 88 Goulburn St. 03 6234 8801, narrarabackpackers.com Pickled Frog 281 Liverpool St. 03 6234 7977, thepickledfrog.com Transit Backpackers 251 Liverpool St. 03 6231 2400, transitbackpackers.com

HOBART DO Cascade Brewery 140 Cascade Rd. 03 6224 1117 cascadebreweryco.com.au Mt Wellington Descent Bike tours. 03 6274 1880 mtwellingtondescent.com.au

DEVONPORT Tasman Backpackers 114 Tasman St. 03 6423 2335, tasmanbackpackers.com.au

BICHENO

Arthouse Backpacker Hostel 20 Lindsay St. 1800 041 135, arthousehostel.com.au

Bicheno Backpackers 11 Morrison St. 03 6375 1651, bichenobackpackers.com

Launceston Backpackers 103 Canning St. 03 6334 2327, launcestonbackpackers.com.au

Bicheno Penguin Tours 03 6375 1333, bichenopenguintours.com.au

Lloyds Hotel 23 George St. 03 6331 9906, backpackersaccommodation.com.au

LAUNCESTON DO Cataract Gorge launcestoncataractgorge.com.au Centre for Beer Lovers Boag’s Brewery, 39 William St. 03 6332 6300, boags.com.au

Salamanca Markets Every Saturday, Salamanca Place. salamanca.com.au

Queen Victoria Museum & Art Gallery 2 Invermay Rd & 2 Wellington St. 03 6323 3777, qvmag.tas.gov.au

Tasmanian Museum & Art Gallery 5 Argyle St. tmag.tas.gov.au

Tasmania Zoo 1166 Ecclestone Rd. 03 6396 6100, tasmaniazoo.com.au

CRADLE MTN

Big 4 Iluka Reserve Rd. Freycinet National Park Brewery, Wineglass Bay camping. 03 6256 7000 wineglassbay.com

STRAHAN, Strahan YHA 43 Harvey St.

STRAHAN DO Wild Rivers Jet Jet Boat Cruises. 0364717396 wildriversjet.com.au

Discovery Holiday Parks Cradle Mountain Rd. 1800 068 574 discoveryholidayparks.com. au/TAS

Water by Nature Extreme multiday whitewater rafting. 1800 111 142, franklinrivertasmania.com

Mt Roland Budget Backpacker Rooms 1447 Claude Rd, Gowrie Park. 03 6491 1385

MELBOURNE STAY

CRADLE DO Devils @ Cradle Tassie devil sanctuary. 3950 Cradle Mountain Rd. 03 6492 1491. devilsatcradle.com Overland Track Six-day walk parks.tas.gov.au

FREYCINET

All Nations Nomads 2 Spencer St. Base Melbourne 17 Carlisle St, St. Kilda. Central Melbourne Accommodation 21 Bromham Place, Richmond. 03 9427 9826, centralaccommodation.net Exford Hotel 199 Russell St. 03 9663 2697,

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exfordhotel.com.au Flinders Station Hotel 35 Elizabeth St. 03 9620 5100, flindersbackpackers.com.au The Greenhouse Backpacker Level 6, 228 Flinders Lane. 1800 249 207, greenhousebackpacker.com.au Habitat HQ 333 St Kilda Road, St Kilda. 1800 202 500, habitathq.com.au Home at the Mansion 66 Victoria Parade. 03 9663 4212 homemansion.com.au Home Travellers Motel 32 Carlisle St, St Kilda. 1800 008 718, homehostels.com.au Discovery Melbourne 167 Franklin St. 03 9329 7525 discoverymelbourne.com Melbourne Central YHA 562 Flinders St. Nomads Melbourne 198 A’beckett St. Space Hotel 380 Russell St.

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

BAY OF FIRES Binalong Bay to Eddystone Point, north-eastern Tasmania Despite being named as one of the world’s best beaches by Lonely Planet a few years ago, this undeveloped, idyllic corner of Tassie is still, just about, hanging onto its off-the-beaten-track status. Kick back and enjoy the turquoise waters, white sands and fiery red granite rocks that give the area its name. It’s also one of the top Aussie camping spots you could hope to find, thanks to a basic site right by the beach, which is free. Score!

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1800 670 611, spacehotel.com.au

DON’T MISS

The Spencer 475 Spencer St. 1800 638 108, spencerbackpackers.com.au Back of Chapel 50 Green St, Windsor College Lawn Hotel 36 Greville St, Prahran collegelawnhotel.com.au Claremont Guesthouse 189 Toorak Rd, South Yarra hotelclaremont.com City Centre Budget Hotel 22-30 Little Collins St citycentrebudgethotel.com Elephant Backpackers 250 Flinders St elephantbackpacker.com.au Elizabeth Hostel 490 Elizabeth St elizabethhostel.com.au King St Backpackers 160 King Street kingstreetbackpackers.com.au Hotel Discovery 167 Franklin St hoteldiscovery.com.au Lords Lodge Backpackers 204 Punt Rd lordslodge.com.au Melbourne International Backpackers 450 Elizabeth St mibp.com.au Melbourne Metro YHA 78 Howard St Melbourne Oasis YHA 76 Chapman St St Arnaud 99 Park St, South Yarra, starnaudguesthouse.com The Spencer City Central BP 475 Spencer St spencerbackpackers.com.au The Nunnery 116 Nicholson Street, Fitzroy nunnery.com.au Victoria Hotel Backpackers Victoria Hotel, 380 Victoria St vichotelbrunswick.com.au

ST KILDA

LORNE The Great Ocean Road passes through many beautiful seaside towns, none lovelier than Lorne. Just a two-hour drive south of Melbourne, there awaits a Mediterranean café culture with shops, boutiques and galleries, with the main strip of Mountjoy Parade overlooking the wide sands of Louttit Bay. Lorne is also home to the Pier to Pub; a 1.2km open water swimming race run by the local Surf Lifesaving Club each January. It is also the birthplace of the famous Falls Festival, a cracking multi-day music festival held over New Year’s Eve which has now multiplied into events in Tassie and Byron Bay as well. The Lorne shindig sells out quickly so keep your eyes peeled for ticket release dates or last-minuute resells if you miss out first time round. 109 Barkly St ritzbackpackers.com St Kilda Beach House 169B Fitzroy St stkildabeachhouse.com.au

MELBOURNE DO Australian Centre for the Moving Image Federation Square. 03 8663 2200, acmi.net.au Melbourne Aquarium Cnr of Flinders St & King St. 03 9923 5999, melbourneaquarium.com.au Discovery Melbourne 167 Franklin St. discoverymelbourne.com Melbourne Cricket Ground Brunton Av. 03 9657 8888 mcg.org.au Melbourne Museum 11 Nicholson St, Carlton. 13 11 02 melbourne.museum.vic.gov.au

Back of Chapel Backpackers 50 Green St backofchapel.com

National Gallery of Victoria Federation Square. ngv.vic.gov.au

Base St Kilda 17 Carlisle St

Old Melbourne Gaol 377 Russell St. 03 8663 7228, oldmelbournegaol.com.au

Coffee Palace Backpackers 24 Grey St coffeepalacebackpackers.com. au Habitat HQ 333 St Kilda Rd, thehabitathq.com.au Oslo Hotel 38 Grey St oslohotel.com.au The Ritz for Backpackers

Official Neighbours Tours 570 Flinders St. neighbourstour.com.au Skydive the Beach Melbourne 1300 798 843 skydivethebeachmelbourne.com Tourism Victoria Backpacking ideas. backpackmelbourne.com

Wildlife Tours Australia Specialising in Victorian tours +61 3 9314 2225 wildlifetours.com.au

GREAT OCEAN RD Anglesea Backpackers 40 Noble St, Anglesea. 03 5263 2664, angleseabackpackers.com.au Apollo Eco Beach YHA 5 Pascoe St. Great Ocean Road Backpackers 10 Erskine Av, Lorne. 03 5289 1070, greatoceanroadcottages.com Port Campbell Hostel 18 Tregea St, Port Campbell. 03 5598 6305, portcampbellhostel.com.au Surfside Backpackers Cnr Great Ocean Rd & Gambier St, Apollo Bay. 1800 357 263, surfsidebackpacker.com

MORNINGTON Bayplay Lodge 46 Canterbury Jetty Rd, Blairgowrie. 03 5988 0188, bayplay.com.au Sorrento Foreshore Reserve Nepean Hwy. 1800 850 600, mornpen.vic.gov.au Sorrento YHA 3 Miranda St, Sorrento. Tortoise Head Lodge French Island. 03 5980 1234, tortoisehead.net

03 5674 1447, inverlochholidaypark.com.au

DANDENONG Emerald Backpackers 03 5968 4086

BIG4 Phillip Island Caravan Park 24 Old Bridge Dr, Newhaven. 03 5956 7227, phillipislandcpk.com.au

MURRAY RIVER Echuca Gardens YHA 103 Av, Mitchell St, Echuca.

Cowes Caravan Park 164 Church St, Cowes. 03 5952 2211, cowescaravan.com.au

Mildura City Backpackers 50 Lemon Ave, Mildura. 03 5022 7922, milduracitybackpackers.com.au Oasis Backpackers 230 Deakin Av, Mildura. 04 0734 4251, milduraoasisbackpackers.com.au

GIPPSLAND Prom Coast YHA Backpackers 0427 875 735 Cambrai Hostel Maffra 117 Johnson St, Maffra. 1800 101 113 maffra.net.au/hostel

PHILLIP ISLAND Amaroo Park YHA 97 Church St, Cowes. Anchor Belle Holiday Park 272 Church St, Cowes. 03 5952 2258, anchorbelle.com.au Avenue Apartments 204 Thompson Avenue, Cowes. 03 5952 6718, visitphillipisland.com Beach Park Tourist Caravan Park 2 McKenzie Rd, Cowes. 03 5952 22113, beachpark.com.au BIG4 Inverloch Holiday Park 2 Cuttriss St, Inverloch.

Koala Park Resort 1825 Phillip Island Rd, Cowes. 03 5952 2176, koalaparkresort.com.au The Island Accommodation 10-12 Phillip Island Tourist Road. 03 5956 6123 theislandaccommodation.com. au San Remo Holiday Park 4 Mary Grove, San Remo. 03 5678 5024 visitphillipisland.com

GRAMPIANS Grampians YHA Eco Hostel Cnr Grampians & Buckler Rds, Halls Gap. Tim’s Place 44 Grampians Road, Halls Gap. 03 5356 4288, timsplace.com.au

MILDURA Mildura City Backpackers 50 Lemon Avenue milduracitybackpackers.com.au

STRATHMERTON Riviera Backpackers YHA 669 Esplanade

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IN THE SPOTLIGHT

GLOBETROTTERS INTERNATIONAL BACKPACKERS HOSTEL 154/156 Lake St, Cairns. Dorms from $20 Globetrotters International Backpackers Hostel is for global travellers looking for a home away from home. This hostel focuses exclusively on your needs as a backpacker – getting around, activities and seeing the best of Cairns.

Cairns

globetrottersinternational.com.au

BRISBANE STAY Aussie Way Backpackers 34 Cricket St. 07 3369 0711, aussiewaybackpackers.com Banana Bender Backpackers 118 Petrie Terrace. 07 3367 1157, bananabenders.com Brisbane Backpackers Resort 110 Vulture St, West End. 1800 626 452, brisbanebackpackers.com.au Brisbane City Backpackers 380 Upper Roma St 1800 062 572, citybackpackers.com Bunk Backpackers Cnr Ann & Gipps Sts, 1800 682 865, katarzyna.com.au The Deck 117 Harcourt Street, New Farm. 04 3270 6666 Balmoral House 33 Amelia St, Fortitude Valley vipbackpackers.com

Tin Billy Travellers 462 George St tinbilly.com

BRISBANE DO Australia Zoo Glasshouse Mountains, Tourist Drive, Beerwah. 07 5436 2000, australiazoo.com.au Gallery of Modern Art Australian and international paintings, sculptures and decorative art. 07 3840 7303, qag.qld.gov.au Riverlife Adventure Centre Kayaking & rock climbing. Lower River Terrace, Kangaroo Point. 07 3891 5766, riverlife.com.au Story Bridge Adventure Climb 170 Main St, Kangaroo Point. 1300 254 627, storybridgeadventureclimb. com.au XXXX Brewery Tours & Ale House Brewery tours. Cnr Black & Paten St, Milton. 07 3361 7597, xxxxalehouse.com. au

Brisbane City YHA 392 Upper Roma St The Elephant Hotel 230 Wickham St elephanthotel.com.au Somewhere to Stay Cnr Brighton Rd & Franklin St somewheretostay.com.au The Palace Backpackers Cnr Anne & Edward St backpackbrisbane.com

GOLD COAST Aquarius Backpackers 44 Queen St, Surfers Paradise. 1800 22 99 55, aquariusbackpackers.com.au Backpackers in Paradise 40 Peninsula Drive, Surfers Paradise. 1800 268 621, backpackersinparadise.com.au

Coolangatta YHA Pl, 230 Coolangatta Rd, Bilinga.

Wet ‘n’ Wild Water World wetnwild.myfun.com.au

Gold Coast International BP 28 Hamilton Ave, Surfers. 1800 816 300, goldcoastbackpackers.com.au

Warner Bros Movie World movieworld.com.au

Islander Backpackers Resort 6 Beach Rd, Surfers. 1800 074 393, islander.com.au Sleeping Inn Surfers 26 Peninsular Dr, Surfers Paradise. 1800 817 832, sleepinginn.com.au

Zorb 07 5547 6300

SUNSHINE CST Mooloolaba Backpackers 75-77 Brisbane Rd, Mooloolaba. 1800 020 120 mooloolababackpackers.com

RAINBOW BEACH

Surfers Paradise Backpackers Resort 2837 Gold Coast Highway, Surfers. 1800 282 800, surfersparadisebackpackers. com.au

Dingos Backpacker Adventure Resort 20 Spectrum St. 1800 111126, dingosresort.com

Surfers Paradise YHA Mariners Cove, 70 Seaworld Drive, Main Beach, Surfers Paradise.

Pippies Beach House 22 Spectrum St. 1800 425 356, pippiesbeachhouse.com

Trekkers Backpackers 22 White St, Southport. 07 5591 5616, trekkersbackpackers.com.au

Skydive Rainbow Beach 0418 218 358, skydiverainbowbeach.com

Nomads Islander Resort 3128 Surfers Paradise Blvd, Surf & Sun Backpackers 3323 Surfers Paradise Blvd surfnsun-goldcoast.com

GC DO Dreamworld Theme park. dreamworld.com.au Get Wet Surf School 1800 438 938 Seaworld

seaworld.com.au

HERVEY BAY Aussie Woolshed 181 Torquay Rd 07 4124 0677 woolshedbackpackers.com.au Next at Hervey Bay 10 Bideford St. 1800 102 989, nextbackpackers.com Palace Backpackers 184 Torquay, 1800 063 168, palaceadventures.com.au

FRASER ISLAND Eurong Beach Resort 07 4120 1600, eurong.com.au Palace Adventures 184 Torquay St, Hervey Bay, 1800 063 168 palaceadventures.com.au Barefoot Lodge Long Island barefootlodge.com.au Colonial Village YHA 820 Boat Harbour Drive, Urangan, Hervey Bay Cool Dingo’s Rainbow Beach 20 Spectrum St dingosresort.com Dropbear Adventures Williams Ave, Fraser Island. QLD 61 487 333 606 dropbearadventures.com.au Frasers On Rainbow Beach 195 Torquay Terrace, Torquay, flashpackersherveybay.com Kingfisher Bay Resort River Heads Road, Fraser Island kingfisherbay.com Fraser Coast Top Tourist Park 21 Denmans Camp Road, Scarness, Hervey Bay frasercoasttouristpark.com.au Fraser Island Backpackers Cathedral Beach, Fraser Island fraserislandco.com.au Fraser’s on Rainbow 18 Spectrum Av, Rainbow Beach frasersonrainbow.com The Friendly Hostel 182 Torquay Rd, Hervey Bay friendlyhostel.com.au

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Woolshed Backpackers 181 Torquay Road woolshedbackpackers.com.au

BUNDABERG Federal Backpackers 221 Bourbong St. 07 4153 3711 federalbackpackers.com.au Northside Backpackers 12 Queen St. 07 4154 1166 Bundaberg Bondstore Distillery tours. 07 4131 2999 bundabergrum.com.au

TOWN OF 1770 1770 Backpackers 6 Captain Cook Dr. 1800 121 770, the1770backpackers.com 1770 Undersea Adventures 1300 553 889, 1770underseaadventures.com.au

AIRLIE BEACH airliebeach.com 259 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 677 119 Airlie Beach YHA 394 Shute Harbour Rd. Backpackers by the Bay 12 Hermitage Dr. 1800 646 994, backpackersbythebay.com Base Airlie Beach Resort 336 Shute Harbour Rd

Pleasure Divers 07 4778 5788

MISSION BEACH Absolute Backpackers 28 Wongaling Beach Road. 07 4068 8317, absolutebackpackers.com.au Beach Shack 86 Porters Promenade missionbeachshack.com Scotty’s Beach House 167 Reid Rd. 07 4068 8676, scottysbeachhouse.com.au Jackaroo Hostel Mission Beach Frizelle Rd, Bingil Bay jackaroohostel.com

LET THE ADVENTURE BEGIN!

LIAʼS N TO DIVE WITH AUSTRA TAKE THE PLUNGE, LEAR VE PROFESSIONALS GREAT BARRIER REEF DI

Mission Beach Retreat 49 Porters Promenade missionbeachretreat.com.au

CAIRNS STAY Bohemia Central Cairns 100 Sheridan St. 1800 558 589, bhacentral.com.au Bohemia Resort Cairns 231 McLeod St. 1800 155 353 bohemiaresort.com.au Calypso Backpackers 5 Digger St. 1800 815 628, calypsobackpackers.com.au JJ’s Backpackers Hostel 11 Charles St. 07 4051 7642, jjsbackpackers.com NJoy Backpackers Hostel

141 Sheridan St. and fast food joints to help with yourHarbour Gilligan's hangover. 1800 807 055, Magnums Whitsunday Village Resort 13:00: Continuing north of Port Douglas you’ll land in njoy.net.au 366 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800Gorge 624 634 (mossmangorge.com.au). At Daintree Mossman Nomads Beach House magnums.com.au Sheridan St. National Park the gorge is a must-see.239 Once you’ve trekked along the path you’ll be able to give your feet a rest and Northern Greenhouse BOWEN 117that Grafton Street. admire the crystal clear Mossman River cascades over Bowen Backpackers 1800 229 228, Beach end of Herbert St. granite boulders. northerngreenhouse.com.au 07 4786 3433 15:00: Heading back to the car and continuing north bowenbackpackers.net CAIRNS DO you’ll find yourself at Cape Tribulation. Check out Ferntree AJ Hackett Bungy jumping & canyon Rainforest Lodge (ferntreerainforestlodge.com.au) TOWNSVILLE swinging. 1800 622 888 Adventurers Resort with a bar and wooden which has classic huts tables. They cairns.ajhackett.com 79 Palmer St. serve scrumptious After eating 1800 211 522, meals night and day. Go Wild Jungle Tours it’s adventurersresort.com tours a to Croc Daintreecruise Rainforest. time to enjoy the delights of the CapeDaywith 07 4041 9440, Adrenalin Dive (daintreerivercruises.com.au) A onejungletours.com.au hour wildlife cruise 07 4724 0600, that lets you spot wild animals in their habitat. Be adrenalindive.com.au Pronatural Dive 07 4031 5255 warned: Yongala don’t Dive walk too close to any mangroves, you might prodivecairns.com Yongala diving. get an unwanted snap. 07 4783 1519, Raging Thunder Adventures 19:00: Withyongaladive.com.au all that excitement it’s time to head back Whitewater rafting. 07 head 4030 7990, towards Cairns. As the evening settles, straight into the ragingthunder.com.au city centre where there is wide MAGNETIC IS array of restaurants for you Skydive Cairns to pick from along Island the main strip. Base Magnetic POBOX 105N Cairns 1 Nelly Bay Rd. 4052 1822, 19:00: And it wouldn't be true Cairns 07 experience without skydivecairns.com.au Bungalow Bay Backpackers dancing the night away at The Woolshed (thewoolshed. Horseshow Bay. com.au).1800 With themed nights on every night, try your luck 285 577, CAPE TRIB in the wet bungalowbay.com.au T-shirt competitions or seeCrocodylus how you fare in their Village Arcadia games. Either way you'll Lot 5, Buchanan Creek Cairns Rd, Mexican Hotel drinking end your 7 Marine Parade, Arcadia Bay. Cow Bay. trip on a07high. 4778 5177, 07 4098 9166,

hotelaracadia.com.au

. . . E R E H Y L L A IN F E ’R YOU

crocodyluscapetrib.com

Our 5 Day PADI Open water course is the most popular way to do it.

We also specialise in Liveaboard dive trips and all levels of dive education.

www.prodivecairns.com SHOP: Cnr Shields & Grafton Sts, Cairns FREECALL: 1800 353 213 PHONE: +617 4031 5255 RES: info@prodivecairns.com TNTDOWNUNDER.COM53 55 tntdownunder.com

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QLDLISTINGS PK’s Jungle Village Cnr Avalon & Cape Trib Rd. 1800 232 333,

pksjunglevillage.com.au

INNISFAIL Innisfail Budget Backpackers Worker’s Hostel 125 Edith St. 07 4061 78337 Walkabout Motel & ackpackers 07 4061 2311 walkaboutbackpackers.com

PORT DOUGLAS Parrotfish Backpackers Resort 37 Warner St, Kuranda. 07 4099 5011, parrotfishlodge.com

GULF SAVANNAH Emu Creek Cattle Station 08 9943 0534

DAINTREE Koala Beach Resort Lake St, 07 4051 4933

MORETON ISLAND Tangalooma Wild Dolphin Resort tangalooma.com

NOOSA STAY Flashpackers Noosa 102 Pacific Avenue, Sunshine Beach flashpackersnoosa.com Nomads Noosa Backpackers 44 Noosa Dr Noosa Inland Noosa Backpackers 9-13 William St, Noosaville noosabackpackers.com Halse Lodge YHA 2 Halse Lane, Noosa. 1800 242 567, halselodge.com.au Dolphins Beach House Noosa 14 – 16 Duke Street, Sunshine Beach dolphinsbeachhouse.com

NOOSA DO

PORT DOUGLAS Dougies Backpackers Resort 111 Davidson St dougies.com.au Global Port Douglas 38 Macrossan St globalbackpackerscairns.com. au/port-douglas Parrot Fish Lodge 37 Warner St parrotfishlodge.com Port O’Call YHA 7 Craven Close portocall.com.au

INNISFAIL

AGNES WATER 1770 Beachside Backpacker 12 Captain Cook Drive independentbackpackers.com 1770 Southern Cross Backpackers 2694 Round Hill Rd 1770southerncross.com

ROCKHAMPTON Emu Park Resort 92 Patterson St, Emu Park emusbeachresort.com Rockhampton Backpackers YHA 60 Macfarlane St Childers Eco-Lodge Off the Princess Highway childersecolodge.com.au

SUNSHINE COAST

@tnt_downunder Cotton Tree Beachouse 15 the Esplanade cottontreebackpackers.com The Duporth 6 Wharf St, Maroochydore theduporth.com.au

TOWNSVILLE Adventurers Backpackers 79 Palmer St adventurersresort.com Civic Guest House Backpackers Hostel 262 Walker St civicguesthousetownsville. com.au Foreign Exchange Accommodation Beachside 19 Eyre St, North Ward foreignx.com.au

Australia Zoo 1638 Steve Irwin Way, Sunshine Coast australiazoo.com

Codge Lodge 63 Rankin St codgelodge.com

The Discovery Group Noosa Everglades thediscoverygroup.com.au

Crown Hostel 25 Ernest St 07 4061 2266

Drop Bear Adventures Fraser Island from Noosa dropbearadventures.com.au

Backpackers Shack 7 Ernest St fbackpakershack.com

Bli Bli House B&B 600 David Low Way, Pacific Paradise. buderimmotorinn.com

Base Magnetic Island 1 Nelly Bay Rd

Kanu Kapers Australia Noosa Everglades kanukapersaustralia.com

Farm work, Innisfail farmwork.tv/farmwork/innisfail

Beach Front Towers 4 Aerodrome Rd, Marochydore beachfronttowers.com.au

Bungalow Bay Koala Village 40 Horseshoe Bay Rd bungalowbay.com.au

Amore on Buderim 27 Earlybird Dr, Buderim amoreonbuderim.com.au Buderim Motor Inn 45 King St, Buderim buderimmotorinn.com

MACKAY Gecko’s Rest 34 Sydney St geckosrest.com.au

MAGNETIC IS

Photos: iStock

MUST VISIT

SURFING THE GOLD COAST You can’t claim to have experienced Australia until you’ve had a go at the national obsession, surfing. And where else to try it but at Surfers Paradise. Well actually, if you’re half-decent on a board, Surfers is one of the worst places on the Gold Coast to look for waves – instead try South Straddie, Snapper Rocks or Burleigh Heads. However, if it’s your first go and you’re looking for a lesson, then Surfers is, well, paradise.

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Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

Gold Coast

Famous for fun

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NTLISTINGS

DARWIN STAY

KATHERINE STAY

Banyan View Lodge Darwin 119 Mitchell St. 08 8981 8644, banyanviewlodge.com.au

BIG4 Katherine Holiday Park 20 Shadforth Road. 1800 501 984, big4.com.au

Darwin YHA 97 Mitchell St.

Palm Court Kookaburra Backpackers Third St. 08 8972 2722

Elkes Backpackers 112 Mitchell St. 1800 808 365, elkesbackpackers.com.au

KATHERINE DO

Frogshollow Backpackers 27 Lindsay St. 1800 068 686, frogs-hollow.com.au

Airborne Solutions Scenic helicopter flights. 08 8972 2345 airbornesolutions.com.au

Gecko Lodge 146 Mitchell St. 1800 811 250, geckolodge.com.au

THE CAGE OF DEATH At Darwin’s Crocosaurus Cove you can jump in an acrylic cage (not-soreassuringly named ‘the cage of death’) and come face-to-face with a giant saltwater croc. It’s the only experience of its kind Down Under and seeing the crocs so close – and in perfectly clear water – is something you’re unlikely to forget. From $125pp.

Melaleuca on Mitchell 52 Mitchell St. 1300 723 437, momdarwin.com Youth Shack 69 Mitchell St. 1300 793 302, youthshack.com.au

DARWIN DO Crocosaurus Cove Crocodile park and cage of death. 58 Mitchell St. 08 8981 7522, crocosauruscove.com Deckchair Cinema Jervois Rd, Darwin Waterfront. 08 8981 0700, deckchaircinema.com.au

Darwin

crocosauruscove.com

Fannie Bay Gaol Heritage prison. East Point Road, Fannie Bay. 08 8941 2260, nt.gov.au Museum & Art Gallery of the Northern Territory 19 Conacher St, Bullocky Point. 08 8999 8264, magnt.nt.gov.au

Oz Jet Boating Stokes Hill Wharf. 1300 135 595, ozjetboating.com.au Spectacular Jumping Crocodile Cruise Adelaide River. 08 8978 9077, jumpingcrocodile.com.au Wave Lagoon Waterfront Precinct. waterfront.nt.gov.au

Nitmiluk Tours Gorge cruises and kayak hire. 1300 146 743 nitmiluktours.com.au

TENNANT CREEK Tourist Rest Leichardt St. 08 8962 2719, touristrest.com.au

ALICE SPRINGS Alice Lodge 4 Mueller St. 08 8953 1975, alicelodge.com.au Alice Springs YHA Cnr Parsons St & Leichhardt Tce. Haven Resort 3 Larapinta Drive. 1800 794 663, alicehaven.com.au

@tnt_downunder

Toddy’s Backpackers 41 Gap Rd. ONLINE Rock & Dorm SPECIALS FREECALL 1800 027027 toddys.com.au

ALICE DO Alice Springs Desert Park Larapinta Drive. 08 8951 8788, alicespringsdesertpark.com.au Alice Springs Reptile Centre Meet and hold lizards. 9 Stuart Terrace. 08 8952 8900, reptilecentre.com.au Outback Ballooning Hot air balloon rides. 1800 809 790, outbackballooning.com.au Royal Flying Doctor Service Base Museum and operations room. Stuart Terrace. 08 8952 1129, flyingdoctor.net School of the Air Long-distance schooling museum. 80 Head St. 08 8951 6834, assoa.nt.edu.au The Rock Tour 74 Todd St “3day Uluru only $350” FREECALL 1800 246345 therocktour.com.au

FLY JETSTAR TO ULURU AIRPORT FROM $99 BOOK YOUR TOUR TODAY! 58

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Coolibah Lodge 194 Brisbane St coolibahlodge.com.au

PERTH STAY Billabong Backpackers Resort 381 Beaufort St. 08 9328 7720, www.billabongresort.com.au

Globe Backpackers & City Oasis Resort 561 Wellington St. 08 9321 4080, globebackpackers.com.au Ocean Beach Backpackers 1 Eric St, Cottlesloe. 08 9384 5111, oceanbeachbackpackers.com.au One World Backpackers 162 Aberdeen St, Northbridge. 1800 188 100, oneworldbackpackers.com.au Perth City YHA 300 Wellington St. The Old Swan Barracks 2-8 Francis St. 08 9428 0000, theoldswanbarracks.com

Underground Backpackers 268 Newcastle St, undergroundbackpackers. com.au

Easy Perth Backpacker 4 Francis Street, Northbridge easyperthbackpackers.com.au

Britannia on William 253 William St, Northbridge. 08 9227 6000, perthbritannia.com Emperor’s Crown 85 Stirling St, Northbridge. 1800 991 553, emperorscrown.com.au

Northbridge shiralee.com.au

Wickham Retreat Backpackers 25-27 Wickham St, East Perth 08 9325 6398

Grand Central Hotel Backpackers 379 Wellington St 08 9421 1123

STAY HERE WESTERN BEACH LODGE

Hotel Bambu Backpackers 75 - 77 Aberdeen St, Northbridge bambu.net.au

6 Westborough St, Perth. Dorms from $32 Located walking distance from Scarborough Beach, shops, restaurants and nightlife, is the Western Beach Lodge. Clean, secure and friendly.

Mountway Holiday Apartments 36 Mount St mountwayapartments.com.au

Perth

YMCA Jewell House 180 Goderich St ymcajewellhouse.com.au

Hay Street Backpackers 266-268 Hay St haystbackpackers.com

westernbeach.com

Underground Backpackers 268 Newcastle St, Northbridge. 08 9228 3755, underground backpackers.com.au

Backpack City and Surf 41-43 Money St backpacker.com.au

The Witch’s Hat 148 Palmerston St. 08 9228 4228, Witchs-hat.com

Cheviot Lodge 30 Bulwer St cheviotlodge.com

Beatty Lodge 235 Vincent St beattylodge.com.au

Coolibah Lodge 194 Brisbane St coolibahlodge.com.au

PERTH DO

Ocean Beach Backpackers 1 Eric St, Cottesloe oceanbeachbackpackers.com.au Perth Beach YHA 256 West Coast Hwy, Scarbrough Planet Inn Backpackers 496 Newcastle St planetinn.com.au The Shiralee Hostel 107 Brisbane St,

Aquarium of Western Australia 91 Southside Drive, Hillarys. 08 9447 7500, aqwa.com.au Art Gallery of Western Australia Perth Cultural Centre/Roe St, Perth. 08 9492 6600, artgallery.wa.gov.au Aviation Heritage Museum Bull Creek Drive, Air Force Memorial Estate, Perth. 08 9311 4470, raafawa.org.au

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IN THE SPOTLIGHT

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Crown Perth Great Eastern Hwy, Burswood. 08 9362 7777, crownperth.com.au Kings Park & Botanic Garden bgpa.wa.gov.au Moonlight Cinema Synergy Parklan, Kings Park, Perth. moonlight.com.au Perth Mint 310 Hay St. 08 9421 7223, perthmint.com.au Perth Zoo 20 Labouchere Road, South Perth. 08 9474 3551, perthzoo.wa.gov.au Penguin Island 153 Arcadia Drive (corner of Penguin Road), Shoalwater, Perth. 08 9591 1333, penguinisland.com.au Perth Concert Hall 5 St George’s Terr., Perth. 08 9231 9900, perthconcerthall.com.au

MONKEY MIA Monkey Mia (pronounced ‘my-ah’) is located on the Coral Coast, about 850km north of Perth. It’s become famous for the bottlenose dolphins that swim to shore and interact with people every day. As a result it’s become fairly touristy, but if you’re keen to see the finned ones up close, you’d struggle to find somewhere better. The dolphin interaction started in 1964 when a lady from one of the nearby fishing camps befriended the creatures and today there’s now a pod of around 300 that live in the bay. This amazing beach is part of the Shark Bay World Heritage Area, and with its relaxed vibe, year-round sunshine, clear blue water and extensive wildlife, it’s the perfect winter escape. If you’re not planning on staying, make sure you drop by early in the morning as generally all the dolphin feeds are done and dusted by lunchtime.

St Mary’s Cathedral 17 Victoria Square,, Perth. 08 9223 1350, perthcatholic.org.au St George’s Cathedral 38 St George’s Terrace, Perth. 08 9325 5766, perthcathedral.org The Perth Mint 310 Hay Street,

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Perth. 08 9421 7376, perthmint.com.au The WACA Nelson Crescent, East Perth. 08 9265 7222,, waca.com.au Western Australian Museum James St, 08 9212 3700, museum.wa.gov.au

PERTH MUSIC Amplifier Capital amplifiercapitol.com.au Astor liveattheastor.com.au Belgian Beer Cafe belgianbeer.com.au Perth Arena pertharena.com.au Metro Cityl metroconcertclub.com The Bakery nowbaking.com.au The Ellington Jazz Club ellingtonjazz.com.au The Rosemount Hotel rosemounthotel.com.au The Newport Hotel thenewport.com The Beat Megaclub thebeatmegaclub.com.au Universial Bar universalbar.com.au Ya-Ya’s ya-yas.com.au

FREO STAY Backpackers Inn Freo 11 Pakenham St. 08 9431 7065, backpackersinnfreo.com.au Old Firestation Backpackers 18 Phillimore St. 08 9430 5454, oldfirestation.com.au Sundancer Backpackers Resort 80 High St. 08 9336 6080, sundancerbackpackers.com Pirates Backpackers Resort 11 Essex St. 08 9335 6653, piratesbackpackers.com.au

FREO DO Fremantle Markets Henderson Street Fremantle 08 9335 2515, fremantlemarkets.com.au Fremantle Prison 1 The Terrace. 08 9336 9200, backpackersinnfreo.com.au

fac.org.au Spare Parts Puppet Theatre 1-9 Short St. 08 9335 5044, backpackersinnfreo.com.au

ROTTNEST ISL Rottnest Island YHA Kingstown Barracks. Rottnest Express 1 Emma Place North Fremantle 1300 Go Rotto rottnestexpress.com.au

MARGARET RIVER Margaret River Lodge YHA 220 Railway Tce. Harmony Forest 248 Sebbes Rd. 08 9757 7055, harmonyforest.com.au Surfpoint 12 Riedle Drive Prevally 08 9757 1777 surfpoint.com.au

ALBANY Albany Bayview Backpackers YHA 49 Duke St Cruize-Inn 122 Middleton Rd. 08 9842 9599, cruise-inn.com

MONKEY MIA Monkey Mia Dolphin Lodge Monkey Mia Road 1800 653 611, monkeymia.com.au

NINGALOO REEF Blue Reef Backpackers 3 Truscott Crescent, Exmouth 1800 621 101, aspenparks.com.au Ningaloo Club Coral Bay 08 9948 5100, ningalooclub.com Excape Backpackers YHA Murat Rd, Exmouth.

BROOME STAY Cable Beach Backpackers 12 Sanctuary Road. 1800 655 011, cablebeachbackpackers.com Kimberley Club 62 Fredrick St 08 9192 3233, kimberleyklub.com

CORAL BAY Ningaloo Club Robinson St ningalooclub.com

ESPERANCE

The Shipwreck Galleries Cliff St, 08 9212 3700, museum.wa.gov.au

Blue Waters Lodge YHA 299 Goldfields Rd,

Fremantle Arts Centre 1 Finnerty Street. 08 9432 9555,

Pete’s Exmouth Backpackers YHA Cnr Truscott Cres & Murat Rd

EXMOUTH

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SALISTINGS

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IN THE SPOTLIGHT

LAKE EYRE Take a guided tour to this lake around midday and you will experience a true phenomenon: the lake surface can often becomes very flat and so reflects the sky in a way that leaves both the horizon and water surface virtually impossible to define. Whether you want to be floating up with the clouds or keeping your feet firmly on the ground, Lake Eyre has it all. You can take a hot air balloon at dawn over the Barossa Valley or try hiking the Heysen Trail. The 1,200 kilometre track stretches from Cape Jervis on the south coast to Parachilna Gorge in the Flinders Ranges.

ADELAIDE STAY

adelaideoval.com.au

Adelaide Backpackers Inn 112 Carrington St. 1800 24 77 25, abpi.com.au

Adelaide Zoo Frome Rd. 08 8267 3255, zoossa.com.au

Adelaide Central YHA 135 Waymouth St.

Haigh’s Chocolates Factory tours. 153 Greenhill Rd, Parkside 1800 819 757, haighschocolates.com.au

Adelaide Travellers Inn 220 Hutt St. 08 8224 0753, adelaidebackpackers.com.au Backpack Oz 144 Wakefield St. 1800 633 307, backpackoz.com.au

Temptation Sailing Dolphin swimming, Glenelg. 04 1281 1838 dolphinboat.com.au

Blue Galah Backpackers Lvl 1, 52-62, King William St. 08) 8231 9295, bluegalah.com.au Glenelg Beach Hostel 5-7 Moseley St. Glenelg. 1800 359 181, glenelgbeachhostel.com.au

BAROSSA VAL

Barossa Backpackers 9 Basedow Road, Tanunda. 08 8563 0198, barossa backpackers.com.au

COOBER PEDY Opal Cave Coober Pedy Hutchinson St. 08 8672 5028, opalcavecooberpedy.com.

KANGAROO IS Kangaroo Island YHA 33 Middle Terrace, Penneshaw. Vivonne Bay Lodge 66 Knofel Drive, Vivonne Bay 13 13 01 sealink.com.a

RIVERLAND

Radeka Down Under 1 Oliver St. 1800 633 891, radekadownunder.com.au

Berri Backpackers Sturt Highway, Berri. 08 8582 3144, berribackpackers.com.au

Riba’s Underground 1811 William Creek Rd. 08 8672 5614, camp-underground.com.au

Harvest Trail Lodge Loxton. 08 8584 5646, harvesttrail.com.au

CHECK IN

Photos:iStock

EYRE PENINSULA Coodlie Park Farmstay Flinders Highway, Port Kenny. 08 8687 0411 coodliepark.com Baird Bay Ocean Eco Experience Sea lion and dolphin swims. 08 8626 5017 bairdbay.com

Rodney Fox Shark Expeditions Great white shark cage diving. 08 8363 1788 rodneyfox.com.au

Shakespeare Hostel 123 Waymouth St. 1800 556 889, shakeys.com.au

FLEURIEU PEN Port Elliot Beach House YHA 13 The Strand, Port Elliot.

Port Lincoln Tourist Park 11 Hindmarsh St. 08 8621 4444, portlincolntouristpark.com.au

My Place 257 Waymouth St. 1800 221 529, adelaidehostel.com.au

Adelaide Oval Home to the Donald Bradman collection. War Memorial Drive. 08 8300 3800

Riverland Backpackers Labour Hire Services 08 8583 0211

Calypso Star Charters Great white shark cage diving. 08 8682 3939, sharkcagediving.com.au

Hostel 109 109 Carrington St. 1800 099 318, hostel109.com

ADELAIDE DO

Nomads on Murray Sturt Highway, Kingston on Murray.

FLINDERS RANGES SHAKESPEARE HOSTEL 123 Waymouth Street. Rooms from $35 A local legend and champion among South Australia hostels, top spot Shakeys has a huge amount of beds and a huge amount of features too. Give them a whirl – they won’t disappoint.

Adelaide

shakeys.com.au

Angorichina Tourist Village 08 8648 4842, angorichinavillage.com.au Wilpena Pound Resort Wilpena Rd. 08 8648 0004, wilpenapound.com.au

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NZ TRAVEL NZ TRIP | NORTH & SOUTH ISLAND LISTINGS IS IT A PLANE? NO! ETC... / 64 ‘I can’t help thinking that a greenie, if launched from this peak position, would catapult to the ground at the destructive rate of 150km/hr...’ Turn to page 64 read more about dangling off Auckland’s tallest tower.

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Explosive adrenalin-filled activities meet a simmering underbelly â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it seems Auckland fits in its volcanic surroundings just perfectly

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NZTRIP

Auckland eruption

The easy-going hustle and bustle of Auckland has a lot in common with Amsterdam’s Red Light District. Stay with us, we’re going somewhere here... Like the District (and its workers), Auckland spreads itself far and wide (ahem) and when visitors arrive in both, they tend to get stuck in one place, neglecting to explore the beauty and culture of the surrounding areas. It’s probably not by chance that the Red Light District popped into our head, though, as admittedly some of the nightlife here is not a million miles away from the ’Dam’s sex-laden streets. Spy Bar in downtown Auckland is the biggest meat market in town, open until a foot-blistering 10am. Here the musical calibre is exchanged for availability and sheer numbers of single boys and girls aged 18-25. Auckland also has a thriving trade in dancing girls – and brothels. Showgirls, on Customs St, is strangely hip – a friend

calls it “sometimes trendy”. The White House is a big ‘adult entertainment centre’ on Queen St, modelled and themed on politics and the US White House; this place shames the Oval Office almost as much as Bill Clinton. And Femme Fatale offers probably the best girls in Auckland, though we’re told that’s not necessarily a recommendation. Isle like it Auckland’s beauty is not all skin deep, though. Despite the seemingly obvious pitfalls of building a city within a bosom of volcanoes (surely Dante’s Peak should be on their curriculum?), what Auckland’s town planners lacked in common sense, the city makes up for in great scenery. Several of these mountainous uprisings are worth visiting. One Tree Hill and Mount Eden are two nearby mounds, both offering great views only a few minutes from the city. For a cheap way to see the natural beauty of Auckland’s ›› TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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Images frm: AJ Hackett Bungy New Zealand, Auckland Jetboat and SkyWalk /SkyJump.

NZTRIP

sprawling suburbs, head up there before dusk and watch the sun set behind the water’s edge. It’s stunning. To truly appreciate Auckland though, you have to head off the mainland and onto its islands. Rangitoto is Auckland’s most recent volcano, barely 600 years young, and its size, symmetry and dominance over the entrance to the harbour make it one of Auckland’s most iconic landmarks. A short ferry ride over and you’re faced with a land that time forgot. Upon further inspection, the looming green mountain behind is ominously reminiscent of Lost. The strangest, yet most appealing thing, is the complete and utter lack of noise. Due to the acidity of the soil, very few birds inhabit the island. The next closest inhabitable Island is Waiheke. Locals talk about how much the place has changed in the last 15 years, with tales of a bourgeois elite battling hippies and backpackers to stake their claim on a treasured piece of land. Yet it’s barely touched and wonderfully reminiscent of a Mediterranean getaway. Once you’ve got your fill of scenery, however, and are feeling suitably relaxed, there’s only one thing you can do – embrace your suicidal tendencies and take on one, or a few, of the many crazy, adrenalin-pumping activities that Auckland so thrives on. After all, you’ll never appreciate a

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view more than those few seconds before plunging towards the ground... Elastic fantastic It just so happens to be one of the most miserable days of the year – raining, cold and extremely windy. Nevertheless, there are three of us up at 10am braving the elements. Walking along the purpose-built structure under Auckland’s harbour bridge, I think I must be insane. I’m about to do a bungy jump (bungy.co.nz, jumps $160). If we had not been harnessed to the railing, I’m sure at least one of us would have been blown off into the water below. I selflessly let the two Irish guys jump before me. One of them said he wanted to get soaked in the harbour, but as he jumped, only his head got dunked in. Now, when I get nervous, I usually talk it up like I’m not scared at all, so I turned to the bungy instructor and said: “You only got his head wet! Come on, that’s nothing.” The guy just looked at me and grinned. I didn’t like the look of his expression at all. It was the kind of face the tough guy gives in a movie before he kicks some ass. Sure enough, I got a proper dunk – almost totally under water, literally up to my shoes. I came out of it utterly soaked, but grinning like a gold medal champion.

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Photos: CanyonNZ

MORE TERROR TOWN TREATS

This article has been updated from the TNT archives. Original feature by Matt Risely, Chris Tanner and Carlisle Rogers

CANYONING Imagine sliding, jumping, abseiling and falling into rock pools in some of the most magnificent rainforests – it’s like a playground for adults. You spend the day sliding down natural hydro slides, abseiling down mystical waterfalls and getting some airtime with the awesome jumps into deep crystal-clear pools. The Sleeping God Canyon tour offers a vertical descent of more than 300m down a steep set of waterfalls. Eek! Tours cost $360, canyonz.co.nz

Tower records A 1.2m wide metal grate is the only thing separating my body from the pavement below. Far, far down, cars glitter like coins at the bottom of a water fountain. They move slowly along the long white veins of winding roadways linking together Auckland’s towering skyscrapers. This is the Auckland Sky Tower, and at 328 metres high, it is the tallest structure in the Southern Hemisphere. Today, I just so happen to be standing only a couple of metres from the top. Luckily, I won’t be doing any jumping this time (you can do a Sky Jump for $225, skywalk.co.nz), I’m just nipping out for a quick stroll along the clouds, courtesy of the Sky Walk ($145). Although I can’t help thinking that a greenie, if launched from this peak position, would catapult to the ground at the destructive rate of 150km/hr... The wind is puffing harder than a fat man on a stair master, but a harness tethering me to the side of the building provides some comfort. I will not fall. Repeat. I will not fall. Confidence restored, I take in the view: I can see as far north as the Leigh Peninsula, east towards Hauraki Gulf, west to Manukau Heads and south to the Bombay Hills. Indeed, you can’t beat the view from all the way up here.

JET BOATING Jet boating in Viaduct Harbour, in the heart of down town Auckland, is an adventure combining highspeed thrills with jet boat manoeuvres. These include 180 and 270° spins with sweeping turns, as you travel up to an exhilarating 85km per hour. If you’re quick on the eye, you’ll get amazing views of the Auckland city skyline. Tours from $85, or you can combine your jet boat ride with a quad biking session for $210, a bungy jump for $210, or a helicopter flight for $280, aucklandjetboattours.co.nz DIVING We reckon Goat Island is the best place to go diving when you’re staying in Auckland. Off the east coast you can snorkel or dive straight from the beach to see snapper, parore, sea urchins, crayfish and stingrays, and if you’re lucky, an orca or two. It’s an hour from the city, trips cost from $110 for divers, or from $80 for snorkellers, goatislanddive.co.nz PARAGLIDING Using just some light nylon and string, paragliding is as close as you’ll get to flying like a bird, soaring up to 10,000 feet above the earth. Sky Wings will take you paragliding any day of the week (weather permitting) and will pick you up from the city centre. Experiences from $110, nzparagliding.com

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NORTHISLAND AUCKLAND

CHECK IN

In Maori language the city’s name is Tamaki Makau Rau, which translates as “the city of 100 lovers”. Auckland is admired for its cosmopolitan flavour, its sunny harbour for the fact that it makes every other city in NZ feel like a small town.

Auckland Museum See the world’s finest collection of Maori and Pacific Island artefacts. Explore New Zealand’s natural history, discover the largest bird that ever lived and experience a Maori cultural show. 09 309 0443, aucklandmuseum.com

i-SITE Auckland Atrium, skycity, Cnr Federal & Victoria Sts Backpackers World Travel 16-20 Fort St, 09 300 9999, backpackersworld.com i-SITE Visitor Information 287 Queen St, 09 979 2333, aucklandnz.com Ferry Tickets Online (For inter-island ferry services) 39 Beach Rd, 0800 500 660, ferrytickets.co.nz Department of Conservation Auckland Details on tramping, camping grounds, the Gulf Islands and exploring the regional parks. 137 Quay St Cnr, Princes Wharf, open Mon-Fri (9am-5am); SatSun (10am-4pm), 09 379 6476 Airport Transport The airport is 21km from the city and shuttle buses run every half an hour. Airbus Airport is every 20 mins. 0800 247 287, airbus.co.nz City buses Tickets and timetables are available from the 10 central city Star Mart stores. 09 366 6400, maxx.co.nz Auckland InterCity Travel Centre Buses around Auckland and the rest of New Zealand leave from here. Located beside the casino, Hobson St, 09 583 5780, intercity.co.nz Train Intercity trains arrive and depart from Britomart, 12 Queen St, Auckland. 09 366 6400, transdev.co.nz

AUCKLAND STAY Auckland Airport Kiwi Hotel 150 McKenzie Road, Mangere. 09 256 0046, kiwiairporthotel.co.nz Airport Skyway Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 30 Kirkbride Road, Mangere. 09 275 4443, skywaylodge.co.nz Auckland International Backpackers 2 Churton St, Parnell. +64358 4584, aucklandinternationalbp.com

Auckland Zoo See kiwi birds in the nocturnal house and over 900 animals. 09 360 3800, aucklandzoo.co.nz

BAMBER HOUSE 22 View Rd, Auckland. Dorms from $28 Bamber House is a colonial mansion in the beautiful surroundings of Mt Eden converted into a welcoming hostel. Mt Eden, Auckland

bamberhouse.co.nz

BK Hostel (BBH) 3 Mercury Ln, Central. 09 307 0052 bkhostel.co.nz

Queen Street Backpackers 4 Fort St. 09 373 3471, qsb.co.nz

Borders Beyond 8 Nixon St, Grey Lynn. 09 360 9880, bordersbeyond.co.nz

Uenuku Lodge (BBH) 217 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby. 09 378 8990, uenukulodge.co.nz

City Garden Lodge (BBH) 25 St Georges Bay Rd, Parnell. 09 302 0880 citygardenlodge.co.nz

Surf ‘n’ Snow Backpackers 102 Albert St. 09 363 8889, surfandsnow.co.nz

The Fat Camel (Nomads) 38 Fort St. 09 307 0181, nomadsworld.com

Brown Kiwi (BBH) 7 Prosford St, Ponsonby. 09 378 0191, brownkiwi.co.nz

Freemans Backpackers (BBH) 65 Wellington Street. 09 376 5046 freemanbackpackers.co.nz Freinz Backpackers (BBH) 27-31 Vitoria St. East. 09 307 6437 frienz.com Nomads Auckland 16-20 Fort St. 09 300 9999, nomadshostels.com Jandal Palace (BBH) 38 Glenesk Rd, RD2. 09 812 8381, pihabeachstay.co.nz JJ House (BBH) 4 MacMurray Road. 09 214 9791 jjhouse.co.nz

KR City Travellers (BBH) 146 Karangahape Rd. 09 377 6027, kroadcitytravellers.co.nz Verandahs (BBH) 6 Hopetown St. 09 360 4180, verandahs.co.nz YHA Auckland City 18 Liverpool St. 09 309 2802, yha.co.nz YHA Auckland International 5 Turner St. 09 302 8200, yha.co.nz

AUCKLAND DO

Kiwi International Hotel 411 Queen St. 0800 100 411, kiwihotel.co.nz

Explorer Bus Sightseeing around Auckland, 0800 439 756 explorerbus.co.nz

Lantana Lodge (BBH) 60 St Georges Bay Rd, Parnell. 09 373 4546, lantanalodge.co.nz

Sealink Ferries can take you all over the harbour. Info about timetables and destinations are available online on the Sealink website. 0800 732 546, sealink.co.nz

Oaklands Lodge (BBH) 5a Oaklands Rd, Mt Eden. 09 638 6545, oaklands.co.nz

Base Backpackers Auckland 229 Queen St. 09 358 4877, stayatbase.com

Ponsonby Backpackers 2 Franklin Rd, Ponsonby. 09 360 1311, ponsonby-backpackers.co.nz

Bamber House (BBH) 22 View Rd, Mt Eden. 09 623 4267, bamberhouse.co.nz

Princeton Backpackers 30 Symonds St. 09 963 8300, princeton.net.nz

America’s Cup Sailing Experience A unique opportunity to participate as crew on an actual America’s Cup yacht. Take the helm, exert energy on the grinders or simply sit back and enjoy the action as you sail the beautiful Waitemata Harbour. The two hour sails departs daily from the Auckland Viaduct. No

Coast to Coast Walkway A walk between Waitemata Harbour and Manukau Harbour. It takes about four hours and takes in Albert Park, Auckland Uni, Auckland Domain, Mt Eden, and One Tree Hill. Devonport A 15-minute ferry or bus ride across the harbour on the north shore, Devonport is an idyllic setting for a picnic or a stroll along the beach. Kelly Tarlton’s Antarctic Encounter & Underwater World A seawater aquarium with a moving walkway through a transparent underwater cavern. Antarctic Encounter is a recreation of an Antarctic environment where you jump on a snow mobile and tour a penguin colony, get attacked by an orca whale. Orakei Wharf, Tamaki Drive. 0800 80 50 50, kellytarltons.co.nz Mt Eden The highest point in the city, 4km south of the city centre with spectacular views. Get there by bus. NZ National Maritime Museum The museum celebrates NZ’s maritime heritage. 09 373 0800, nzmaritimemuseum.co.nz Ponsonby West of the city, explore Victorian architecture and narrow streets with cafés, bars, clothes shops, art galleries and some lively nightlife.

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cruises to Hauraki Gulf islands, with all-day passes and hop-on, hop-off options. fullers.co.nz 09 367 9111, Pride of Auckland The Pride of Auckland operates an impressive fleet of large, purpose-built yachts on the sheltered waters of Auckland’s Waitemata Harbour and is world famous for its sailing and dining cruises. Join them for a coffee, lunch, dinner, Waiheke sailing experience cruise or a full-day sailing adventure and experience the “City of Sails” for what it is known for. 0800 397 567, exploregroup.net Auckland Bridge Climb Up and over the Auckland Harbour Bridge. Westhaven Reserve, Curran St, Herne Bay. 09 360 7748, bungy.co.nz Auckland Harbour Bridge Jump NZ’s only ocean touch bungy, 40m high. Westhaven Reserve, Curran St, Herne Bay. 09 360 7748, bungy.co.nz Canyonz Ltd Explore subtropical canyons and abseil down crashing waterfalls. 0800 422 696, canyonz.co.nz New Zealand Surf Tours Learn to surf on uncrowded, beautiful beaches. 09 828 0426, newzealandsurftours.com Sky Jump Fall from the top of the 192m Sky Tower, 0800 759 586, skyjump.co.nz Sky Walk Walk around the external 1.2m wide platform, 192m up. 0800 759925, skywalk.co.nz Fullers Bay of Islands Tours One, two and three-day tours from Auckland. fullers.co.nz 09 367 9111, Awesome Adventures Three-day Bay of Islands tours. 0800 658 058, awesomenz.com

Beaches Auckland is surrounded by great beaches, including Judges Queen Street Bay, Kohimarama, Okahu Bay, Auckland’s main boulevard with St Heliers Bay and popular shops, cafés and restaurants. Mission Bay. Whale & Dolphin Safari Aotea Square Markets See whales and dolphins from Every Friday and Saturday at Auckland’s doorstep. The Aotea Square, Queen St. NZ Hauraki Gulf is considered one fashion labels, retro gear, foods, of the most biologically and Pacific-style crafts, jewellery geographically diverse marine and furniture, 09 309 2677, parks in the world. See the-edge.co.nz dolphins, whales, sea birds and/ or even penguins. Dolphins are Victoria Park Market viewed on over 90% and whales 3km from the CBD, an outdoor on 75% of trips. Departs daily market with fruit, veggies, from the Auckland Viaduct. books, clothes and handicrafts. Dolphin viewing guaranteed. 09 357 6032, exploregroup.co.nz GREAT BARRIER Fullers Cruises This unique island destination is Inner harbour cruises and longer dominated by a native forest a

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network of criss-crossing tracks. thebarrier.co.nz Orama Oasis Karaka Bay Rd, 09 429 0063, orama.org.nz Stray Possum Lodge (VIP) Stray Possum Lodge is situated on the beautiful Hauraki Gulf 09 429 0109, straypossum.co.nz

BARRIER DO Fullers Cruises Depart from the Ferry Building. fullers.co.nz 09 367 9111, Great Barrier Airlines Fly out of Auckland Airport or Auckland Shore Airfield. 09 275 6612, greatbarrierairlines.co.nz Fullers Great Barrier Explorers Cruise and tours, summer only (October-April). 09 367 9111, fullers.co.nz

WAIHEKE ISLAND A 35-minute ferry ride from Auckland. It is popular for its long sweeping beaches and craft shops.

WHANGAREI Whangarei I-SITE Visitor Centre 92 Otaika Rd, 09 438 1079 whangareinz.com

WHANGAREI STAY Bunkdown Lodge (BBH) 23 Otaika Road, 09 438 8886, bunkdownlodge.co.nz Coastal Cow Backpackers (BBH) 299 Molesworth Drive, Mangawai Heads 09 431 5246, mangawhaibackpackers.com Little Earth Lodge (BBH) 85 Abbey Caves Road, 09 430 6562, littleearthlodge.co.nz Whangarei Falls Backpacker (BBH) 12 Ngunguru Rd, Whareora, 09 437 0609, whangareifalls.co.nz YHA Whangarei Manaakitanga 52 Punga Grove Ave, 09 438 8954, yha.co.nz

WHANGAREI DO

Hekerua Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 11 Hekerua Rd, Oneroa, 09 372 8990, hekerualodge.co.nz

Dive! Tutukaka Poor Knights Islands dives, plus tours with kayaking, cave explorations, snorkelling, swimming, sea mammalspotting.

Kina Backpackers 421 Seaview Road, Onetangi, 09 372 8971, kinabackpackers.co.nz

PAIHIA

HELENSVILLE The hot springs here have indoor and outdoor thermal pools and waterslides. Malolo House 110 Commercial Rd, 09 420 7262, malolohouse.co.nz

HENDERSON BAY North Wind Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 88 Otaipango Road, RD4, 09 409 8515 northwind.co.nz

HIBISCUS COAST Orewa Beach Hillary Square, Orewa 09 426 2638, orewabeach.co.nz Pillows Backpackers Lodge (BBH) 412 Hibiscus Coast Highway, 0800 426 6338, pillows.co.nz

SAIL ROCK

Paihia is one of the most beautiful towns on the North Island with equal parts love for adventure, nature and a raucous nightlife. AwesomeNZ Tours include Maori mythology, dolphin swimming and fast boats. Maritime Building, on the waterfront, 09 402 7421, awesomenz.com Bay of Islands i-Site The Wharf, Marsden Rd, 09 402 7345, paihia.co.nz

PAIHIA STAY Base Backpackers Bay of Islands 18 Kings Rd 09 402 7111, stayatbase.com Cap’n Bob’s Beach House (BBH) 44 Davis Crescent, 09 402 8668, capnbobs.co.nz Centabay Lodge (BBH) 27 Selwyn Rd, 09 402 7466, centabay.co.nz

Hen & Chickens Island and Sail Rock These offshore areas offer great sailing and diving. Boat trips leave from the area daily.

Admirals View Motel 2 MacMurray Rd, 09 402 6236, admiralviewlodge.co.nz

Waipu Wanderer (BBH) 25 St Marys Rd, 09 432 0532 waipu-hostel.co.nz

Mousetrap (BBH) 11 Kings Rd, 09 402 8182, mousetrap.co.nz

Peppertree Lodge 15 Kings Rd, 09 402 6122, peppertree.co.nz Pickled Parrot Backpackers (BBH) Grey’s Lane, 09 402 6222, pickledparrot.co.nz Saltwater Lodge (BBH) 14 Kings Rd, 09 402 7075, saltwaterlodge.co.nz Seabeds (BBH) 46 Davis Cres, 09 402-5567 seabeds.co.nz

PAIHIA DO Haruru Falls Picturesque falls offering swimming, camping and kayaking opportunities – and a pub! Opua Forest The DOC provides a leaflet of forest walks, which features a small stand of Kauri trees. Drive into the forest via Oromahoe Rd or walk from School Rd. Te Rawhiti Cape Brett Walkway Guided tours include experienced local Maori guides, all meals, hut accommodation, transport by boat to hut taking in the famous Hole in the Rock, Maori culture, myths and legends and hangi, capebrettwalks.co.nz Waitangi Treaty Grounds The site where the historic Treaty of Waitangi was signed. Also see carvings that represent all Maori tribes in NZ and one of the largest ceremonial waka (canoe) in the world, launched every Waitangi Day (Feb 6). 09 402 7437, waitangi.net.nz Boat cruises & dolphin watching Cape Brett “Hole in the Rock” Cruise Four-hour cruises, dolphincruises.co.nz Dolphin Discoveries With the warmest water and friendliest dolphins (bottlenoses), this is a great place for swimming with the dolphins (conditions permitting). The high-speed luxury catamaran offers easy access to the water and hot showers. Or do a “Hole in the Rock and Dolphin Viewing Experience” and see dolphins, whales, birds and other wildlife. Visit Otehei Bay on Urupukapuka Island during your island stop and explore this amazing place. 0800 000 784, exploregroup.co.nz Dune Rider Unique Adventure Tour Make your way up to Cape Reinga while traveling to the Gumdiggers Park and drive along the famous Ninety Mile Beach. Climb huge sand dunes and boogie board back down on the way and stop at the world famous Mangonui Fish Shop for fish and chips. Departing daily from Paihia. exploregroup.co.nz Sale Lion New Zealand: “The Ultimate Day Sail in the Bay”

Join Lion New Zealand, NZ’s legendary maxi yacht. The friendly crew will show you the ropes and share the stories of the Bay and Legend of Sir Peter Blake. 0800 000 784, exploregroup.co.nz

pa on the headland at Matauri Bay. Travellers come here to dive the ship’s wreck.

WHANGAROA This area was once well known for its Kauri forests, but these days it’s more about game fishing. The scenery is ruggedly spectacular and sailing cruises are popular.

Awesome Cape Reinga Via Ninety Mile Beach – learn Maori myths and legends, navigate the quicksand stream, ride the dunes, visit a thousand year old forest. 0800 653 339, awesomenz.com

Tourist info centre Boyd Gallery, 09 405 0230, whangaroa.co.nz

RUSSELL Catch a ferry to Russell, originally a sprawling fortified Maori settlement. Information Centre End of the Pier, Russell 09 403 8020, exploregroup.co.nz

Sunseeker Lodge (BBH) 12 Old Hospital Rd, 09 405 0496, sunseekerlodge.co.nz

KARIKARI PENIN The Rusty Anchor 1 Tokerau Beach Rd, 09 406 7141, rustyanchor.hostel.com

RUSSELL STAY

KAITAIA

Wainui Lodge (BBH) 92D Te Wahapu Rd, 09 403 8278, wainuilodge-russell-nz.com

The ideal starting point for Cape Reinga and Ninety Mile Beach. Pukenui Lodge Hotel (BBH) Cnr SH1 & Pukenui Wharf Rd 09 409 8837, pukenuilodge.co.nz

Ferry Landing (BBH) 395 Aucks Rd, Okiato Point 09 403 7985, ferrylandingrussell.co.nz

Mainstreet Lodge (BBH) 235 Commerce St, 09 408 1275 mainstreetlodge.co.nz

Pipi Patch Backpackers 18 Kings Road, 09 403 7111.

KERIKERI

KAITAIA DO

A highlight of the sparsely populated town is the wonderful Maori village. There is also an historic Maori pa (fortress) and the Kerikeri Mission Station. kerikeri.co.nz

Ancient Kauri Kingdom Giant kauri tree stumps are fashioned into furniture and other trinkets.

KERIKERI STAY Kerikeri Top 10 Holiday Park & Aranga Backpackers Aranga Drive off Kerikeri Rd, 0800 272 642, kerikeritop10.co.nz

Far North Regional Museum Featuring all kinds of goodies, like the skeleton of a giant moa bird and salvages from local shipwrecks. Pack or Paddle Thoms Landing, 09 4098 445, packorpaddle@hotmail.com

AHIPARA

Hideaway Lodge Wiroa Rd, 0800 562 746 kerikeri.co.nz

Kahoe Farms Hostel (BBH) 1266 State Highway 10, 09 405 1804, kahoefarms.co.nz

Hone Heke Lodge (BBH) 65 Hone Heke Rd, 09 407 8170, honeheke.co.nz

Endless Summer Lodge (BBH) 245 Foreshore Rd, 09 409 4181, endlesssummer.co.nz

Relax a Lodge (BBH) 1574 Springbank Rd (SH10) 09 407 6989 relaxalodge.co.nz

AHIPARA DO

MATAURI BAY A very well-kept tourist secret, Matauri Bay is Maori land, home to the Ngati Kura people, and has beautiful, quiet beaches. The Welcome Swallow Backpackers 249 Hikuru Rd, Off Matauri Bay Rd, 09 405 1019, welcomeswallow.com

Tuatua Tours Guided quad tours of Ninety Mile Beach sand dunes. 3 Main Road, 0800 494 288, tuatuatours.co.nz

HOKIANGA

The Rainbow Warrior A monument to the noble but doomed Greenpeace ship, Rainbow Warrior, sits on the site of a Maori

Heading south, you’ll hit Hokianga Harbour and the quiet twin towns of Omapere and Opononi. The Koutu Boulders are worth a look. Hokianga Information 09 405 8869, hokianga.co.nz

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NORTHISLAND HOKIANGA STAY Okopako Lodge (BBH) – Farm Hostel 140 Mountain Rd, Whirinaki, 09 405 8815, homepages.paradise.net. nz/njandlv/

CHECK IN!

KAWHIA The main attraction of this peaceful port town, 55km south of Raglan, is the Maketu Marae where you can experience the rich cultural tapestry of NZ’s indigenous history.

Globetrekkers Lodge (BBH) 281 State Highway 12, Omapere, 09 405 8183, globetrekkerslodge.com The Tree House Backpackers Lodge (BBH) 168 West Coast Rd, Motukaraka 09 405 5855, treehouse.co.nz

OTOROHANGA BLARNEYS ROCK

DARGAVILLE On the road from Hokianga, the famous “Big Trees”, the native kauri trees of Waipoua Kauri Forest. Once in Dargaville, attractions include the masts from the ill-fated Rainbow Warrior and the fascinating bird sanctuary nearby. Dargaville Info Centre 4 Murdoch St, 09 439 4975, dargaville.co.nz

DARGAVILLE STAY Dargaville Holiday Park 10 Onslow St, 09 439 8296, kauriparks.co.nz

1210 Tutanekai Street, Rotorua. Dorms from $23 Clean with friendly staff and fun, vibrant travellers looking for a good time, Blarney’s is (arguably) the best in Rotorua.

Rotorua DOC Office 73, Rostrevor St. 07 858 1000

HAMILTON STAY Backpackers Central 846 Victoria Street, 07 839 1928, backpackerscentral.co.nz

Kaihu Farm 334 State Highway 12, Kaihu, 09 439 4004. Greenhouse Backpackers (BBH) 15 Gordon St, 09 439 6342, bbh.co.nz

Eagle’s Nest Backpackers 937 Victoria St, 07 838 2704, eaglesbackpackers.co.nz

MATAKOHE

Matakohe House B&B Hotel 24 Church Rd, RD1, 0800 492 452, matakohehouse.co.nz

WAIKATO Waikato District Info Centre 160 Great South Rd, Huntly, 07 828 6406, info@waikatodistrict.govt.nz, waikatodistrict.govt.nz Shekinah Farm (BBH) 122 Pungapunga Rd, Pukekawa, 09 233 4464, shekinahbackpackers.co.nz Raglan Kopua Holiday Park Marine Parade, Raglan, 07 825 8283, stay@raglanholidaypark.co.nz, raglanholidaypark.co.nz

Microtel YHA 140 Ulster St, 07 957 1848, microtel.co.nz YWCA Hostel Cnr Clarence & Pembroke St, 07 838 2219, hamilton.ywca.org.nz

HAMILTON DO Waikato Museum of Art & History Cnr Victoria and Grantham Sts. More than 3,000 items, with a permanent Maori War canoe. Gold coin donations welcomed.

MATAMATA Rural town famous for being turned into Hobbiton in those films – some of the set still stands. Hobbiton Movie Set Tours 501 Buckland Rd, Hinuera, 07 888 1505, office@hobbitontours.com

CAMBRIDGE

HAMILTON NZ’s largest inland city and is known for its parks and gardens. Hamilton Visitor Centre Corner Caro and Alexandra St, Hamilton, 07 839 3580 visithamilton.co.nz

blarneysrock.com

Central Green (BBH) 846 Victoria St, 07 839 1928, backpackerscentral.co.nz

Travellers Lodge (BBH) 64 Jellicoe Rd, Ruawai, 09 439 2283, bbh.co.nz

Just 59km south of Hamilton, many travellers use this small farming community as a base for visiting the Waitomo Caves.

This very Olde English town with its town square and abundance of trees is in the heart of Waikato. The region is famous for its horses and jetboating. Cambridge Info Centre Cnr Queen and Victoria Sts,

07 823 3456 cambridge.co.nz

RAGLAN One of New Zealand’s best-known surfing beaches, Raglan is situated 48km west of Hamilton. Raglan Information Centre 2 Wainui Rd, 07 825 7076, ragland.org.nz

RAGLAN STAY Solscape Eco Retreat Backpackers (BBH) 611 Wainui Rd, 07 825 8268, solscape.co.nz Raglan Backpackers & Waterfront Lodge (BBH) 6 Wi Neera St, 07 825 0515, raglanbackpackers.co.nz Karioi Backpacker Lodge (VIP) & Raglan Surfing School 5 Whaanga Rd, Whale Bay, 07 825 7873, karioilodge.co.nz Dream View Farmstays 430 Te Hutewai Rd, 07 825 8186 dreamview.co.nz Raglan Kopua Holiday Park 61 Marine Parade, 07 825 8283, raglanholidaypark.co.nz Raglan Farmhouse and Flashpackers 61 Marine Parade, 07 825 8747, raglanfarmstay.com

TE AWAMUTU Given that it calls itself the “Rose Town of New Zealand”, it’s not surprising the 2,000-strong Rose Garden is the town’s major attraction. Te Awamutu Info Centre 1 Gorst Ave, 07 871 3259, teawamutuinfo.com

Otorohanga Visitor Info Centre 27 Turongo St, 07 873 8951, otorohanga.co.nz Otorohanga kiwi House & Native Bird Park 20 Alex Telfer Drive, 07 873 7391, kiwihouse.org.nz

WAITOMO Definitely one of the best adventure spots in New Zealand. There are a range of caving adventures here. Waitomo Caves Discovery Centre 21 Waitomo Caves Rd, 0800 474 839, waitomocaves.com

WAITOMO STAY Juno Hall (BBH) 600 Waitomo Caves Rd, 07 878 7649 junowaitomo.co.nz Kiwi Paka Hotel Caves 256, Access Rd, 07 878 3395 waitomokiwipaka.co.nz Kiwi Cave Rafting (BBH) 95 Waitomo Caves Rd, 07 873 9149, caveraft.com

WAITOMO DO Dundle Hill Walk A two-day walk through native bush; limestone outcrops includes overnight with spectacular views at Kays Cabin. 07 878 7640 dundlehillwalk.com Marakopa Falls, Managapohue Natural Bridge, Piri Piri Cave, 30 minutes drive from Waitomo. Rap Raft ‘n’ Rock Blackwater adventures combining abseiling, rafting, glowworms, caving and rockclimbing all in one five-hour adventure. 0800 228 372, caveraft.com The Legendary Black Water Rafting Co Cave tubing in the blackness of the Ruakuri Cave river. 585 Waitomo Caves Rd, 07 878 6219, waitomo.com

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TE KUITI Te Kuiti Information Centre Rora St, 07 878 8077. Dept of Conservation 78 Taupiri Street, 07 878 1080. Tiffany’s Cafe, 241 Rora St, 07 878 7640

TE KUITI STAY Casara Mesa Backpackers (BBH) Mangarino Rd, 07 878 6697, bbh.co.nz Coromandel Top 10 Holiday Park 636-732 Rings Rd, 07 866 8830, coromandeltop10.co.nz

OTOROHANGA Just 59km south of Hamilton, many travellers use this small farming community as a base for visiting the Waitomo Caves. Otorohanga Visitor Info Centre 27 Turongo St, otorohanga.co.nz

COROMANDEL PEN A series of towns loop around the peninsula, broken by rolling green hills. Highlights include Hot Water Beach, Cathedral Cove and the cosy little Coromandel township.

THAMES A great canyoning spot, with loads of natural pools and waterslides. Information Thames 206 Poland St, 07 868 7284 thamesinfo.co.nz DOC Office Pahau St, 07 867 9180 doc.govt.nz

THAMES STAY Dickson Holiday Park 115 Victoria St, 07 868 7308, Gateway Backpackers (BBH) 209 Mackay St, 07 868 6339, bbh.co.nz Sunkist International Backpackers 506 Brown St, 07 868 8808, sunkistbackpackers.co.nz Te Aroha YHA Hostel Miro Street, Te Aroha (south of Thames), 07 884 8739, yha.co.nz

COROMANDEL Some 55km north of Thames is the town of Coromandel, home to the popular Driving Creek Railway. Coromandel Information Centre 335 Kapanga Rd, 07 866 8598, coromandeltown.co.nz

CORO STAY Anchor Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 448 Wharf Rd,

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NORTHISLAND

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07 866 7992, anchorlodgecoromandel.co.nz Black Jack Backpackers Kuaotunu, 07 866 2988, black-jack.co.nz

Fernbird (BBH) 24 Harsant Ave, Hahei, 07 866 3080, bbh.co.nz

Colville Farm (BBH) 2140 Colville Road, Colville, 07 866 6820

On the Beach Backpackers Lodge (BBH, YHA) 46 Buffalo Beach Rd, 07 866 5380, onthebeachbackpackers.co.nz

Mahamudra Retreat Colville Rd, 07 866 6851 mahamudra.org.nz

Seabreeze Holiday Park (BBH) 1043 SH25 Tairua-Whitianga Rd, 07 866 3050

The Pinnacles Backpackers (BBH) 305 Main Road (SH25), 07 864 8448, pinnaclesbakpak.co.nz

Tatahi Lodge (BBH) 9 Grange Rd, Hahei, 07 866 3992, tatahilodge.co.nz

Lions Den (BBH) 126 Te Tiki St, 07 866 8157 ionsdenhostel.co.nz Tui Lodge (BBH) 60 Whangapoua Rd, 07 866 8237, coromandeltuilodge.co.nz Tairua Backpackers (BBH) 200 Main Road, 07 864 8345, tairuabackpackers.com

OPOUTERE This is a good place to go to just chill out. The beach here is glorious and generally empty. Skinny dip anyone? YHA Opoutere 389 Opoutere Rd, 07 865 9072, yha.co.nz

WHANGAMATA A real surfie town, Whangamata has one of the best surf beaches in New Zealand and a laidback atmosphere to match. Whangamata Info Centre 616 Port Rd, 07 865 8340

TAURANGA One of the fastest growing places in NZ, Tauranga combines a young population with a harbourside atmosphere. Enjoy diving, sailing, fishing and surfing. Tauranga i-site 95 Willow St, 07 578 8103 bayofplenty.co.nz Department of Conservation 253 Chadwick Rd West, 07 578 7677

TAURANGA STAY Apple Tree Backpackers (BBH) 47 Maxwell Rd, 07 576 4001 appletreebackpackers.co.nz Harbourside City Backpackers 105 The Strand, 07 579 4066, backpacktauranga.co.nz Bell Lodge (BBH) 39 Bell St, Judea, 07 578 6344, bell-lodge.co.nz

Southpacific Accommodation 245 Port Rd, 07 865 9580, thesouthpacific.co.nz

Just The Ducks Nuts Backpackers 6 Vale St, 07 576 1366, justtheducksnuts.co.nz

NZ Surf n Stay (BBH) 227 Beverley Tce, 07 865 8323 whangamata-backpackers.co.nz

Kingfisher Backpackers Lodge (BBH) 122b Word Road,

WHITIANGA Whitianga, perched on pretty Mercury Bay, is the most popular stop-off point for travellers on the Coromandel. You can learn to make your very own bone carving, dive and surf to your heart’s content. Whitianga Information Centre 118 Oceanview Rd, 09 372 1234 whitianga.co.nz Baywatch Backpackers (VIP) 22 The Esplanade, 07 866 5481, whitianga.co.nz/baywatch Cathedral Cove Lodge 41 Harsant Ave, Hahei Beach, 07 866 3889, cathedralcove.co.nz Cat’s Pyjamas Backpackers (BBH) 12 Albert St, 07 866 4663, cats-pyjamas.co.nz

07 552 0388, kingfisher-backpack.co.nz Loft 109 (BBH) 8/109 Devonport Rd, 07 579 5638, loft109.co.nz Seagulls Guesthouse (BBH) 12 Hinau Street, 07 574 2099, seagullsguesthouse.co.nz Tauranga Central Backpackers 64 Willow St, 07 571 6222, tgabackpack.co.nz YHA Tauranga 171 Elizabeth St, 07 578 5064, yha.co.nz

TAURANGA DO Butler’s Swim With Dolphins 101 Te Awanui Dr, 0508 288 537

Waimarino Adventure Park 07 576 4233, waimarino.com Coyote Bar and Restaurant 107 The Strand, 07 578 8968.

TE PUKE Te Puke Information Centre 130 Jellicoe St, 07 573 9172 tepuke.co.nz

TE PUKE STAY Hairy Berry Backpacker Hostel 2 No One Rd, Te Puke, 07 573 8015, work@hairyberrynz.com Kiwi Corral Backpackers 26 Young Road, 07 573 4530, kiwicorral.co.nz Blue Tide Beachfront Retreat 7 Te Awhe Rd, Maketu Beach, 07 533 2033, bluetides.co.nz

TE PUKE DO Kiwifruit Country Young Rd, 07 573 6340, kiwifruitcountry.co.nz Gotcha Paintball, 720 State Highway 33, Paengaroa, 022 649 1158

WHAKATANE For a very different adventure, visit White Island, an active volcano where sulphur-lipped fumeroles and roaring steam vents create a stark wonderland. whakatane.com Karibu Backpackers (BBH) 13 Landing Rd, 07 307 8276 Otapawa Farmstay (BBH) 255 Haunui Road, 06 376 7250 otapawafarmstay.co.nz/ backpackers

ROTORUA Rotorua is a must for three reasons: the abundance of accessible Maori culture, the steaming volcanic scenery and adrenalin thrills. Tourism Rotorua & Visitor Info Centre 1167 Fenton St, 07 348 5179 rotoruanz.com

ROTORUA STAY Astray Motel & Backpackers (BBH) 1202 Pukuatua St, 07 348 1200, astray.co.nz Base Backpackers Rotorua 1286 Arawa St, 07 348 8636, stayatbase.com Blarney’s Rock Backpackers 1210 Tutanekai St, 07 343 7904, blarneysrock.com Cactus Jack Backpackers 1210 Haupapa St, 0800 122 228 cactusjackbackpackers.com Crash Palace Backpackers 1271 Hinemaru St, 07 348 842, crashpalace.co.nz Funky Green Voyager (BBH) 4 Union St, 07 346-1754, funkygreenvoyager.co.nz Kiwipaka 60 Tarewa Rd, 07 347 0931, kiwipaka.co.nz Planet Nomad Backpackers 1080 Eruera St, 07 350 2550, rotoruaplanetbackpackers.co.nz Oasis Hostel/Backpackers 33A Tarewa Rd, 07 343 6563, oasishostel.co.nz

Whakatane Hotel 79 The Strand, 07 307 1670

Rotorua Central Backpackers (BBH) 1076 Pukuatua St, 07 349 3285, rotoruacentralbackpackers.co.nz

The Windsor 10 Merritt St, Whakatane, 07 308 8040, windsorlodge-backpackers.co.nz

Rotorua Downtown Backpackers (BBH) 1193 Fenton St, 07 347 1170, rotorua-backpackers.co.nz

WHAKATANE DO Dive White 168 The Strand, 0800 348 394, divewhite.co.nz White Island Tours Departs Whakatane daily. 15 The Strand. 07 308 9588 whiteisland.co.nz

Kaitiaki Adventures Extreme whitewater activities. Sledging and rafting trips on the Kaituna and Rangitaiki Rivers, 0800 338 736, kaitiaki.co.nz Off Road NZ Sprint car racing, Monster 4X4, 4WD Bush Safari and more, 07 332 5748, offroadnz.co.nz Polynesian Spa Historical hot mineral water bathing spa on the edge of Lake Rotorua, 07 348 1328, polynesianspa.co.nz Raftabout Whitewater rafting and sledging, 0800 723 822, raftabout.co.nz Skyline Skyrides Spectacular Get the best views and luge down 5km of tracks, or take the 150ft skyswing, 07 347 0027, skylineskyrides.co.nz Waikite Hot Pools Natural hot spring water bathing. Provides private spas, BBQ area and campground facilities, 20 minutes south of Rotorua. hotpools.co.nz Waimangu Volcanic Valley The location of the Pink and White Terraces which were destroyed in the 1886 volcanic eruption. waimangu.co.nz Wet ‘n’ Wild Rafting Guided rafting options on five different rivers – the Wairoa, Rangitaiki, Kaituna, Motu and Mohaka, 0800 462 7238, wetnwildrafting.co.nz Zorb Rotorua Get harnessed inside the perspex Zorb before rolling head-over-heels downhill, 07 357 5100, zorb.com

MAORI CULTURE

Spa Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 1221 Amohau Street, 07 348 3486, spalodge.co.nz

While you’re here, take the opportunity to see how the Maori lived before European settlment. The Maori Arts and Crafts Institute in Whakarewarewa is a good place to begin . nzmaori.co.nz.

YHA Rotorua 1278 Haupapa St, 07 349 4088, yha.co.nz

NZ Maori Arts & Crafts Institute 07 348 9047 tepuia.com

Roquette Restaurant & Bar 23/29 Quay St. 07 307 0722

Agroventures Five adrenalin activities in one adventure park, including bungy jumping, sprint boats and a wind tunnel. 1335 Paradise Valley Rd. 07 357 4747, agroventures.co.nz

Tamaki Maori Village New Zealand’s Most Awarded Cultural Experience! Experience an evening of ceremonial ritual, powerful cultural performance, storytelling & hangi feasting. Hinemaru St, 07 349 2099 tamakimaorivillage.co.nz

Wallys on the Wharf 2 The Strand, 07 307 0722, wallysonthewharf.co.nz

Hell’s Gate Mud baths to heal and stimulate your body hellsgate.co.nz

Whakarewarewa Thermal Village Maori village set amidst a landscape of geothermal

The Wharf Shed Restaurant 2/2 The Strand E. 07 308 5698

ROTORUA DO

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NORTHISLAND wonders. Take a guided tour, see a cultural performance, check out Maori art. 07 349 3463, whakarewarewa.com

LAKE TAUPO Taupo Visitor Centre 30 Tongariro St, 07 376 0027, greatlaketaupo.com

TAUPO STAY Berkenhoff Lodge 75 Scannell St, 07 378 4909, berkenhofflodge.co.nz Blackcurrant Backpackers (BBH) 20 Taniwha St, 07 378 9292, blackcurrantbp.co.nz Rainbow Lodge 99 Titiraupenga St, 07 378 5754, rainbowlodge.co.nz Finns Global Backpackers 8 Tuwharetoa St, 07 377 0044, finnsglobal.co.nz Wairakei Lodge State Highway, 0800 737 678, budgetaccommodation taupo.co.nz Sportsman Lodge Backpackers Retreat 15 Taupahi Rd, 0800 366 208, sportsmanslodge.co.nz Base Taupo 7 Tuwharetoa St, 07 377 4464, stayatbase.com Taupo Urban Retreat 65 Heu Heu St, 0800 872 261, tur.co.nz Tiki Lodge 104 Tuwharetoa St, 0800 845 456, tikilodge.co.nz YHA Taupo 56 Kaimanawa St, 07 378 3311, yha.co.nz Silver Fern Lodge 118 Tamamutu St, 07 377 4929, silverfernlodge.co.nz Lake Maraetai Lodge 5 Totara Terrace, 07 882 8940, lake-maraetai-lodge.co.nz

TAUPO DO Craters of the Moon One of the most geothermally active areas in the region, full of boiling mud and steaming craters. Wairakei Park. cratersofthemoon.co.nz Huka Falls Take a relaxing walk up to Huka Falls where the water pours over the 35ft drop at up to 62,000 gallons per second.

hukafalls.com

BOOK NOW! TONGARIRO

Hukafalls Jet Jetboating by the falls, 0800 485 2538, hukafallsjet.com

Adventure Lodge & Motel (VIP) Carroll Street, National Park, 07 892 2991, adventurenationalpark.co.nz

Rock ‘n’ Ropes Ropes Courses including the trapeze and Giant Swing. At Crazy Catz on Highway 5. 0800 244 508, rocknropes.co.nz

The Crossing Backpackers Erua Rd East, 07 892 2894, thecrossingbackpackers.co.nz

Taupo Bungy Bungy from a platform 47m above the Waikato River. 202 Spa Rd. 0800 888 408, taupobungy.com Tongariro Crossing Transport and National Park Links From Taupo and Turangi during summer months (NovMay). 07 377 0435, thetongarirocrossing.co.nz Taupo Tandem Skydiving Skydive from up to 15,000 feet (over one minute freefall). Free shuttle, DVD and digital photos. Yellow Hangar, Taupo Airport. 0800 275 934, taupotandemskydiving.com

TURANGI On the southern shores of Lake Taupo, Turangi is known as the trout fishing capital of the world. It offers heaps of outdoor adventure activities and is a good base for venturing into the Tongariro National Park. Turangi Visitor Centre Tongariro St, 07 376 0027, turangi.co.nz

TURANGI STAY A Plus Samurai Lodge (BBH) 41 Iwiheke Place, 07 386 8979, tongariro-hostel.co.nz Asure Parklands Motorlodge Cnr Arahori St & State Hwy 1, 07 386 7515, parklandsmotorlodge.co.nz Extreme Backpackers (BBH) 26 Ngawaka Place, 07 386 8949, extremebackpackers.co.nz Judges Pool Motel 92 Taupahi Rd, 07 386 7892, judgepoolmotel.co.nz The Lazy Dog (BBH) 3 Rangipoia Place, 07 386 0317, lazydogbackpackers.co.nz Riverstone Backpackers (BBH) 222 Tautahanga Rd, 07 386 7004, riverstonebackpackers.com Settlers Motel 24 Arahori St, 07 386 7745, settlersmotelturangi.co.nz Turangi Kiwi Holiday Park 13 Te Reiti Tamara Grove, 07 386 8754, turangiholidaypark.co.nz

daKune Lodge (BBH) 42 Park Ave, Ohakune 06 385 8448, dakunelodge.co.nz Howards Mountain Lodge (BBH) 43 Carroll St, National Park, 07 892 2827, howardslodge.co.nz Skotel Alpine Resort Whakapapa Village, 07 892 3715, skotel.co.nz National Park Backpackers YHA (BBH) 4 Findlay St. The hostel runs transport to the Tongariro Crossing, 07 892 2870, npbp.co.nz

follow us on swing and bungy jump. 0800 802 864 River Valley Rafting and horse trekking. 06 388 1444, thelodge@rivervalley.co.nz

OPOTIKI Opotiki Information Centre Cnr St John and Elliot Sts, 07 315 3031 opotikinz.com Central Oasis Backpackers 30 King St, 07 315 5165, centraloasis@hotmail.com Fruit Forest Studio 197 Omarumutu Rd, 07 315 8143, fruitforest.co.nz Opotiki Beach House (BBH) 7 Appleton Road, 07 315 5117 opotikibeachhouse.co.nz

EAST CAPE

Pipers Lodge 18 Millar St, National Park Village, 07 8922 777, piperslodge.co.nz

As you head around the Cape the towns get tinier and the scenery more dramatic. At Te Araroa, you can thead around to the East Cape Lighthouse.

Plateau Lodge 17 Caroll St, National Park Village, 07 8922 993, plateaulodge.co.nz

Maraehako Bay Retreat SH35, Whanarua Bay, 07 325 2648. maraehako.co.nz

Ski Haus (BBH) Carroll St, McKenzie St, 07 892 2854, skihaus.co.nz

Stranded in Paradise (BBH) 21 Potae Street, 06 864 5870, stranded-in-paradise.net

Station Lodge (BBH) 60 Thames Street, The Junction, Ohakune, 06 385 8797, stationlodge.co.nz

MT RUAPEHU

Wainui Beach Motel 34 Wairere Rd, 06 868 5882, wainuibeachmotel.co.nz

GISBORNE

The park’s showcase is Mt Ruapehu, an active volcano towering at 2,796m.

Flying Nun Backpackers (BBH) 147 Roebuck Rd, 06 868 0461, flynun.co.nz

Ruapehu Visitors’ Centre 54 Clyde St, 06 385 8427 visitruapehu.com

YHA Gisborne 32 Harris St, 06 867 3269, yha.co.nz

Whakapapa Visitor Centre SH 48, Whakapapa Village, 07 892 3729 visitruapehudc.govt.nz

RANGITIKEI The Rangitikei District is a top destination for adventure sports. Amongst stunning scenery, you can navigate grade five whitewater and take the leap of elasticated faith from an 80m bungy. Rangitikei Farmstay 422 Makuhou Rd, 06 327 4495, rangitikeifarmstay.govt.nz River Valley Dorms Makuhou Rd 06 388 1444, rivervalley.co.nz

RANGITIKEI DO Mokai Gravity Canyon Extreme flying fox, bridge

WAIROA Wairoa Visitor Information Centre Queen St, 06 838 7440 Haere Mai Cottage (BBH) 49 Mitchell Rd, 06 838 6817 DOC office for hut bookings Lake Waikaremoana, 06 837 3900

NAPIER Napier is a beautiful, surprising city. Its “pleasing to the eye” status is actually the result of an enormous earthquake which meant the entire town had to be rebuilt.

@tnt_downunder 53 Nelson Cres, 06 835 4523, bbh.co.nz Archie’s Bunker (BBH) 15 Herschell Street, 06 833 7990, archiesbunker.co.nz The Art House (BBH) 259 Marine Parade, 06 835 5575, arthousenapier.co.nz Blue Water Lodge (BBH) 471 Marine Parade, 06 835 8593, arthousenapier.co.nz Criterion Art Deco Backpackers (VIP, Roamfree) - (BBH) 60 Whangapoua Rd, 07 866 8237, coromandeltuilodge.co.nz 48 Emerson St, 06 835 2059, criterionartdeco.co.nz Stable Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 370 Hastings Street, 06 835 6242, bluewaterlodge.co.nz Toad Hall Backpackers (BBH) 11 Shakespeare Road, 06 835 5555, toadhall.co.nz Waterfront Lodge & Backpackers 217 Marine Pd, 06 835 3429, napierbackpackers.co.nz YHA Napier 277 Marine Parade, 06 835 7039, yha.co.nz

HASTINGS Hastings is 20km south of Napier and most notable for its fertile plains, which have given birth to a multitude of beautiful parks, gardens and farms. A1 Backpackers (BBH) 122 Stortford St, 06 873 4285, a1backpackers.co.nz Glenross Lodge (BBH) Route 52, Rakaunui, 06 376 7288, tararua.net/glenross Lochlea Farmstay 344 Lake Rd, Wanstead, +6468554816 The Rotten Apple Backpackers (BBH) 114 Heretaunga St, 06 878 4363, rottenapple.co.nz AJ’s Backpackers Lodge (BBH) 405 Southland Rd, 06 878 2302, ajs.backpackerslodge.co.nz

TARANAKI Best known for its snow-capped mountain, Mt Taranaki. Peaceful and impressive, Taranaki has skifields, excellent surf beaches, great walking and climbing.

Visitor Info Centre 100 Marine Parade, 06 834 1911

MOKAU

Depart of Conservation Office Marine Parade, 06 834 3111

Palm House Backpackers taranaki-bakpak.co.nz

NAPIER STAY Aqua Lodge (BBH)

NEW PLYMOUTH Taranaki’s major town is New

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people, New Zealand’s most interesting city.

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

WELLY DO Cable car Walk down Lambton Quay and you will see a sign for the cable car which departs every 10 minutes past Kelburn Park to the Botanic Gardens, 04 472 2199

Wellington Visitor Info Centre Corner of Victoria & Wakefield Sts, 04 802 4860, wellingtonnz.com DOC Information Centre 18 Manners St, 04 384 7770 Ferry to the South Island Boats to Picton on the South Island. Ferries can be booked up well in advance in holiday periods. Ferry Tickets Online 186 Victoria St, 0800 500 660, ferrytickets.co.nz

Zealandia Many of New Zealand’s rarest birds, reptiles and insects are living freely in this awardwinning conservation safe haven. Look for kiwis on a guided tour by torchlight. Times vary and bookings are essential. Waiapu Rd, Karori. 04 920 9200, visitzealandia.com

WELLY STAY Barnacles Seaside Inn (BBH) 3 Marine Parade. 04 902 5856 seasideyha.co.nz

RAGLAN Arguably home to the most famous surfing scene in New Zealand, Raglan’s beaches have something for everyone. Manu Bay is said to have the longest left hand break for boardriding, but if that isn’t your thing, then there are some great spots along the coast for swimming or chilling out on a hot day. Situated on the west coast of the North Island, this is one of many New Zealand beaches that have black volcanic sand, creating a unique feel to a day at the beach. Raglan has a very active population and if you’ve had enough of the beach then there are plenty of other of things going on to keep you busy.

Plymouth. One of NZ’s finest art galleries is here (the GovettBrewster Art Gallery). It hosts a great café. Department of Conservation 55A Rimu Street, 06 759 0350 New Plymouth Info Centre Puke Ariki, 65 St Aubyn Street, 06 759 0897, visitnewplymouth.co.nz

PLYMOUTH STAY EcoInn (BBH) 671 Kent Rd, between Egmont Village and New Plymouth on SH3. 06 752 2765 ecoinnovation. co.nz/t-Accommodation.aspx Egmont Lodge (BBH, YHA) 12 Clawton St, 06 753 5720, yha.co.nz bbh.co.nz Seaspray House (BBH) 13 Weymouth St, 06 759 8934, seasprayhouse.co.nz Ducks & Drakes Backpackers (BBH) 48 Lemon St, 06 758 0404 ducksanddrakes.co.nz Sunflower Lodge (BBH) 33 Timandra St, 06 758, 2842 sunflowerlodge.co.nz

PLYMOUTH DO Brooklands Zoo Brooklands, New Plymouth, 06 759 6060, info@npdc.govt.nz

MT TARANAKI Stratford Heritage Lodge 103 Miranda St, 06 765 7482,

eastern-taranaki.co.nz Taranaki Accommodation Lodge (BBH) 7 Romeo St, Stratford, 06 765 5444, info@mttaranakilodge.co.nz

TARANAKI DO Climbing Mount Taranaki It is possible to climb it and return to civilisation in one day, however the weather is notoriously volatile and you must always notify the DOC.

STRATFORD Stratford Information Centre Broadway Stratford (State Hwy 3), 06 765 6708, stratford.govt.nz Department of Conservation Pembroke Rd, 06 765 5144

SOUTH TARANAKI Information South Taranaki 55 High St, Hawera, 0800 111 323, southtaranaki.com Wheatly Downs Farmstay Backpackers (BBH) 484 Ararata Rd, Hawera, 06 278 6523, mttaranaki.co.nz/retreat/ wheatly_downs_farmstay/

WHANGANUI College House 42b Campbell Street, 021 852 100 42b.co.nz Hikurangi Stay Place

1 Mount View Road, 06 343 333 stayplace.co.nz YHA Whanganui 2 Plymouth St, 06 348 2301, yha.co.nz Tamara Backpackers Lodge (BBH) 24 Somme Pde, 06 347 6300, tamaralodge.com Whanganui National Park The major attraction is the Whanganui River, snaking through picturesque scenery. Explore with a kayak or riverboat tour.

Base Wellington 21-23 Cambridge Tce. 04 801 5666 stayatbase.com

Hotel Waterloo & Backpackers (BBH) 1 Bunny St. 04 473 8482 hotelwaterloo.co.nz

Moana Lodge (BBH) 49 Moana Road. 04 233 2010 lmoana-lodge-accommodation. co.nz Wellywood Backpackers 58 Tory St, 04 381 3899, wellywoodbackpackers.co.nz

Department of Conservation Office 74 Ingestre St, 06 348 8475

Rosemere Backpackers (BBH) 6 MacDonald Crescent. 04 384 3041, backpackerswellington.co.nz

PALMERSTON NTH

Rowena’s Lodge 115 Brougham St. 04 385 7872, wellingtonbackpackers.co.nz

Department of Conservation Office 717 Tremaine Ave, 06 350 9700 Grandma’s Place (BBH) 146 Grey St, 06 358 6928, grandmas-place.com Pepper Tree Hostel (BBH) 121 Grey St, 06 355 4054, peppertreehostel.co.nz

WELLINGTON The nation’s capital is to many

Museum of Wellington City & Sea Queens Wharf, 04 472 8904

Lodge in the City (BBH) 152 Taranaki St. 04 385 8560 lodgeinthecity.co.nz

Nomads Capital 118/120 Wakefield St. 0508 666 237, nomadscapital.com

Palmerston North Visitor Centre The Square, 06 350 1922, manawatunz.co.nz

Mount Victoria The views are breathtaking. It’s damn windy so make sure you’re wearing heavy shoes. Walk, drive or bus it.

Cambridge Hotel (BBH) 28 Cambridge Tce. 04 385 8829, cambridgehotel.co.nz

Wanganui Information Centre 31 Taupo Quay, Whanganui, 06 349 0508, wanganui.com

Worldwide Backpackers (BBH) 291 The Terrace. 04 802 5590, worldwidenz.co.nz YHA Wellington City 292 Wakefield St. 04 801 7280 yha.co.nz

Parliament House Free tours. Visit the Beehive, a uniquely designed centre of government with a distinct style of architecture, 04 471 9503 Te Papa – The National Museum Experience the earthquake simulation room, find out what the early settlers went through and visit Te Marae, Te Papa’s living modern marae. Free entry, Cable St, 04 381 7000, tepapa.govt.nz Wellington Zoo Located in Newtown and home to a wide variety of weird and wonderful animal and bird life, 04 381 6755 Harbour cruises The harbour is a handsome thing and the best way to fully appreciate its beauty is by boat.

The Setup (BBH) Level 3/15, Dixon Street, Te Aro 04 802 4779 setupdixon.co.nz Wild Zebra Backpackers (BBH) 58 Tory Street. wellingtonbackpacker.com

Cosmic Corner Funk Store The funkiest store in the universe. Check out the legal highs and chat to the staff, who will happily point you in the right direction for parties, events and scenic spots. 215 Cuba St, 04 801 6970, cosmiccorner.co.nz

Wellington Rover Tours Small group day tours exploring Wellington, its stunning rugged coastline and the Lord of the Rings locations. 021 426 211, wellingtonrover.co.nz Beaches Wellington’s waterfront has cafés, restaurants and parks. Oriental Bay is good for a dip, but the water is cold and not always clean. It’s also good for a walk along the foreshore. If you are desperate for a swim, Scorching Bay is good or head up the coast towards Otaki where the best beaches in the region are found.

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SOUTHISLAND ABEL TASMAN The Abel Tasman National Park has great tramping with 56,000 acres to explore. The Coastal Track is one of the most popular walks in New Zealand, especially in summer when you can cool down at the stunning beaches. Nelson, Motueka and Marahau are all good bases for visiting the park. Sea kayaking is excellent here too.

ABEL DO Wilsons Abel Tasman Sea kayaking, water taxis and lodge accommodation. 03 528 2027, abeltasman.co.nz Abel Tasman Kayaks Ltd 0800 527 8022 abeltasmankayaks.co.nz

NELSON Nelson is seen as the “sunshine capital” of NZ. Home to a string of attractive beaches, Nelson is only a short drive away from the famous Abel Tasman National Park. The town boasts great cafés and a strong artistic subculture. Nelson’s great climate is conducive to fruit growing and travellers can find plenty of work in the area. Nelson Visitor Centre Cnr Trafalgar & Halifax St, 03 548 2304, nelsonnz.com Airport Shuttle supershuttles.co.nz Nelson City Taxis 03 548 8225

NELSON STAY Abba Lodge (BBH) 11 Awaroa Bay, 03 528 8758, abbalodge.co.nz Amber House B&B 46 Weka St, 021 202 4961, amberhouse.co.nz Accents on the Park (BBH/VIP) 335 Trafalgar Square. 03 548 4335, accentsonthepark.com Almond House (BBH) 63 Grove St. 03 545 6455, almondbackpackers.co.nz Alpine Lodge St Arnaud. 03 521 1869, alpinelodge.co.nz Aurora Backpackers (BBH) 161-163 Trafalger Square. 03 929 5553, aurorabackpackers.co.nz Beach Hostel (BBH) 25 Muritai St. 03 548 6817, nelsonbeachhostel.50megs.com The Bug (BBH) 226 Vanguard St. 03 539 4227 thebug.co.nz Villa by the Sea (BBH) 252 Haven Rd. 03 545 8365, villabythesea.co.nz Footprints by the Sea 31 Beach Rd, Tahuna Beach. 03 546 5441,

footprints.co.nz Tramways Hotel Nelson 66 Trafalgar St, 03 548 7049, tramwayshotel.co.nz Honey Suckle House (BBH) 125 Tasman St. 03 548 7576 honeysucklehouse. weebly.com/ Hu Ha Bikerpackers (BBH) State Highway 6, Glenhope. 03 548 2707, bbh.co.nz The Palace Backpackers (BBH) 114 Rutherford St. 03 548 4691, thepalace.co.nz Paradiso (BBH) 42 Weka St. 0800 269 667, backpackernelson.co.nz The Prince Albert Backpackers (BBH) 113 Nile St. 03 548 8477 theprincealbert.co.nz Courtesy Court Motel 26/30 Gold Rd, 03 548 5114, courtesycourt.co.nz The Honesy Lawyer Country Pub 1 Point Rd, Monaco, 03 547 4070, honestlawyer.co.nz Shortbread Cottage (BBH) 33 Trafalgar St. 03 546 6681 shortbreadcottage.co.nz Tasman Bay Backpacker Hostel (BBH) 10 Weka St. 03 548 7950, tasmanbaybackpackers.co.nz Trampers Rest (BBH) 31 Alton St. 03 545 7477 Idesia B&B 14 Idesia Grove, Richmond, 03 544 0409 YHA Nelson 59 Rutherford St, 03 545 9988, yha.co.nz

NELSON DO Abel Tasman Kayaks Ltd 0800 527 8022 abeltasmankayaks.co.nz Happy Valley 4x4 Motorbike Adventures Tours around spectacular private farm on chunky fourwheel motorbikes. 03 545 0304, happyvalleyadventures.co.nz Kaiteriteri kayaks Transport from Nelson. 03 527 8383, seakayak.co.nz Skydive Abel Tasman Tandem jumps from 13,000ft over Abel Tasman. 0800 422 899, skydive.co.nz

NELSON LAKES Located 118km south-west of Nelson, the park comprises Lake Rotoroa and Lake Rotoiti, and is surrounded by forests and mountains. Apart from tramping and skiing at Rainbow Valley and Mt Robert in winter, the lakes offer fishing and other water activities.

BOOK NOW! MOTUEKA This is an alternative hang-out for creative types and those seeking to veer off life’s fast lane. Most people use Motueka as a base to launch an assault on Abel Tasman National Park, but if you take the time to look around your efforts will be well rewarded. Try Marahau Beach and Cobb Valley. Motueka i-SITE Visitors Centre 20 Wallace St, 03 528 6543, motuekaisite.co.nz

MOTUEKA STAY Happy Apple 500 High St, 03 528 8652, happyapplebackpackers.co.nz Avalon Manor Motels 314/316 High St, 0800 282 566 avalonmotels.co.nz Eden’s Edge Backpackers (BBH) 137 Lodder Lane, Riwaka. 03 528 4242, edensedge.co.nz Motueka Garden Motel 71 King Edward St, 0800 101 911, motmotel.co.nz Hat Trick Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 25 Wallace St. 03 528 5353, hattricklodge.co.nz Laughing Kiwi (BBH) 310 High St. 03 528 9229, laughingkiwi.co.nz Old Macdonald’s Farm Holiday Park 03 527 8288, oldmacs.co.nz The White Elephant (BBH) 55 Whakarewa St. 03 528 6208, whiteelephant.co.nz Equestrian Lodge Motel 2 Avalon Ct, 03 528 9369

MOTUEKA DO Wilsons Abel Tasman 265 High St, 03 528 2027, abeltasman.co.nz Abel Tasman Kayaks Ltd 0800 527 8022 abeltasmankayaks.co.nz

TAKAKA Known as the “Heart of the Parks”, the much underrated Golden Bay region is a place of considerable natural beauty. If you venture slightly out of Takaka you will see the Te Waikoropupu (Pupu Springs), one of the largest freshwater springs in the world. Information Centre Willow St, 03 525 9136 Dept of Conservation Office 62 Commercial St, 03 525 8026

TAKAKA STAY Annie’s Nirvana Lodge (BBH, YHA) 25 Motupipi St. 03 525 8766, nirvanalodge.co.nz

follow us on Aquapackers Anchorage Bay, Marahau, Abel Tasman National Park. 0800 430 744, aquapackers.co.nz Golden Bay Barefoot Backpackers (BBH) 114 Commercial St. 03 525 7005, bare-foot.co.nz Kiwiana (BBH) 73 Motuipipi St. 03 525 7676 kiwianabackpackers.co.nz Kanuka Ridge (BBH) 21 Moss Rd, Marahau, Abel Tasman National Park. 03 527 8435, abeltasmanbackpackers.co.nz The Rocks chalets 2086 Takaka Valley Hwy, 03 525 8096, travelbug.co.nz River Inn Golden Bay. 03 525 9425 riverinn.co.nz Shambhala (BBH) 1234 Takaka-Collingwood Highway. 03 525 8463, shambhala.co.nz

KAHURANGI NP The second-largest national park in NZ, Kahurangi includes the Heaphy Track. There are more than 100 bird species and an impressive cave system to be seen here. For info see the Nelson DOC office.

COLLINGWOOD North-west of Takaka is the tiny community of Collingwood (the people aren’t particularly small, their numbers are), a good base for expeditions to Farewell Spit.

@tnt_downunder portage.co.nz Watson Way Backpackers (BBH) 56 High Street 03 572 8228 watsonswaylodge.com

PICTON This pretty town is the opening to the South Island, where the North Island ferry comes in, a centre for the many activities in Queen Charlotte Sound. Airport shuttle bus 03 573 7125

PICTON STAY Atlantis Backpackers (BBH) 42 London Quay, 03 573 7390, atlantishostel.co.nz The Buccaneer Lodge 314 Waikawa Rd, 03 573 5002, buccaneerlodge.co.nz The Jugglers Rest (BBH) 8 Canterbury St. 03 573 5570, jugglersrest.com Fat Cod Backpackers (BBH) 9 Auckland St, 03 573 7788, fatcodbackpackers.co.nz Sequoia Lodge (BBH, VIP) 3 Nelson Sq. 03 573 8399, sequoialodge.co.nz Atlantis Backpackers 42 London Quay, 03 573 7390, atlantisbackpackers.co.nz The Villa (BBH) 34 Auckland St. 03 573 6598, thevilla.co.nz

The Innlet (BBH) 839 Pakawau Main Rd, 03 524 8040, theinnlet.co.nz

Tombstone Backpackers (BBH) 16 Gravesend Place. 03 573 7116, tombstonebp.co.nz

Somerset House (BBH) 10 Gibbs Rd. 03 524 8624, backpackerscollingwood.co.nz

Parklands Marina Holiday Park 10 Beach Rd, 03 573 6343, parktostay.co.nz

FAREWELL SPIT Arching east from the top of Golden Bay, this is a sand bar of epic proportions, home to some of the largest sanddunes in the world and some amazing birdlife. Golden Bay Visitor Centre 03 524 8454

MARLBOROUGH The Marlborough Sounds are a beautiful labyrinth of islands and bays, serving as an impressive gateway to the South Island. Hire a kayak to paddle the coves in style, or go swimming with the dolphins. Anakiwa 401 (BBH) 401 Anakiwa Rd. 03 574 1388, anakiwabackpackers.co.nz Copperbeech (BBH) 73 Maxwell Rd. 03 579 2246, copperbeechbackpackers@hotmail. com Hopewell (BBH) Kenepuru Rd. 03 573 4341, hopewell.co.nz The Partage Resort Hotel Kenepuru Sound. 0800 275 373,

PICTON DO Dolphin Watch Encounters Picton Foreshore, 03 573 8040, naturetours.co.nz Marlborough Sounds Adventure Company 03 573 6078, malboroughsounds.co.nz Southern Wilderness NZ Guided walk, wine trek and sea kayaking specialists. 0800 666 044, southernwilderness.com EcoWorld Aquaium Discover the animals that make NZ unique. 03 573 6030 ecoworldnz.com

QUEEN CHARLOTTE On the road-free outer Queen Charlotte Sound, everyone and everything travels by boat. The Queen Charlotte Track covers 71km and passes through magnificent forest, at times allowing spectacular views over the Marlborough Sounds. The whole track can be walked in four days, though you can also ride it by mountain bike.

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Endeavour Express Water Taxi Day-trips, round-trips and luggage transfers. 03 573 5456

HAVELOCK Nestled at the head of Pelorus Sound, Havelock is the best place from which to explore the Marlborough Sounds. For trampers and mountain bikers there’s the beautiful Nydia Track. DOC Office Mahakipawa Rd, 03 574 2019 Explore Pelorus Sea Kayaks 03 576 5251

HAVELOCK STAY Bluemoon Lodge (BBH) 48 Main Rd. 03 574 2212, bluemoonhavelock.co.nz Linkwater Motel 1594 Queen Charlotte Dr, 03 574 2600 linkwatermotel.co.nz Okiwa Bay Lodge 169 Anakiwa Rd, 03 574 2527, okiwabaylodge.co.nz

PELORUS SOUND The largest waterway within the Marlborough Sounds, it can be accessed from Havelock, Linkwater or Rai Valley.

BLENHEIM The largest town in Marlborough, and considered (ahem, also) the“sunshine capital of New Zealand”. Whitewater rafting on the Buller and Gowan Rivers is great fun. Blenheim I-Site 8 Sinclair Street Railway Station 03 577 8080 Koanui Lodge & Backpackers (BBH) 33 Main St. 03 578 7487, koanui.co.nz The Grapevine (BBH) 29 Park Terrace, 03 578 6062, thegrapevine.co.nz Arrow Backpackers (BBH) 107 Budge St, 03 577 9857, bbh.co.nz Leeways Backpackers (BBH) 33 Lansdowne St, 03 579 2213, leeways.byethost22.com

KAIKOURA Kaikoura is famous for its large sperm whale population and picturesque mountain range. You can also snorkel with dolphins or swim with the inquisitive NZ fur seals (Sept-May). Kaikoura Visitor Info Centre, West End, 03 319 5641

KAIKOURA STAY Albatross Backpacker Inn (BBH) 1 Torquay St. 03 319 6090,

albatross-kaikoura.co.nz Bad Jelly Backpackers (BBH) 11 Churchill St. 03 319 5538, bbh.co.nz Dolphin Lodge (BBH) 15 Deal St. 03 319 5842, dolphinlodge.co.nz Dusky Lodge (BBH) 67 Beach Rd. 03 319 5959 duskylodge.co.nz The Lazy Shag (BBH) 37 Beach St. 03 319 6662 lazy-shag.co.nz Lyell Creek Lodge (BBH) 193 Beach Rd. 03 319 6277, lyellcreeklodge.co.nz Sunrise Lodge (BBH) 74 Beach Rd, 03 319 7444, bbh.co.nz The Fairways at Ocean Ridge 1 Kersage Drive, 03 319 3055 YHA Kaikoura 270 Esplanade. 03 319 5931, yha.co.nz

KAIKOURA DO Kaikoura is famous for its large sperm whale population and picturesque mountain r Albatross Encounter Enjoy the sight of the magnificent albatross so close to the boat you can almost touch them. 96 Esplanade, 0800 733 365 albatrossencounter.co.nz Dolphin Encounter Swim with the acrobatic dusky dolphins or if you prefer, join the tour to view them from the boat. 96 Esplanade, 0800 733 365, dolphin.co.nz Fyffe House 62 Avoca St, Kaikoura’s oldest building, 03 319 5835. Kaikoura Kayaks Paddle with the playful fur seals, dusky dolphins and marine life of Kaikoura. Seal kayaking, kayak school, hire, retail and kayak fishing. 19 Killarney St, 0800 452 456, kaikourakayaks.co.nz Seal Swim Kaikoura Swim with wild NZ Fur Seals. 58 West End, 0800 732 579, sealswimkaikoura.co.nz

CHRISTCHURCH Christchurch is the South Island’s major city and a lively, pretty base with a distinctly English feel to it. Throw in Mount Cook and Mount Hutt with their skifields (early June to late October) and the Canterbury area is well worth spending some time discovering. Christchurch & Canterbury i-Site Visitor Centre Rolleston Avenue (Next to the Canterbury Museum) Christchurch 8011. 03 379 9629 christchurchnz.com

Department of Conservation 7 Rolleston Ave, 09 526 9743

C’CHURCH STAY

This surf beach is also a great place to chill for a while. If you’re feeling adventurous, mountain biking, paragliding and surfing are just some of the activities you can try.

LEWIS PASS

Around the World Backpackers 314 Barbadoes Street. 03 365 4363 aroundtheworld.co.nz

Christchurch Backpackers Haka Lodge 518 Linwood Av, Woolston,. 03 980 4252, hakalodge.co.nz

At The Right Place (BBH) 85 Bealey Street. 03 366 1633 atrp.co.nz

BANKS PENINSULA

Avon City Backpackers Worcester Street. 03 389 6876, avoncitybackpackers.com Dorset House (BBH) 1 Dorset St, 03 366 8268, dorset.co.nz Celtic Backpackers (BBH) 12 Dublin St, 03 377 4417, celticbackpackers.co.nz Chester Street Backpackers (BBH) 148 Chester St East. 03 377 1897, chesterst.co.nz Foley Towers (BBH) 208 Kilmore St. 03 366 9720, backpack.co.nz/foley Haka Lodge 518 Linwood Ave. 03 980 4252 hakalodge.com Jailhouse Accommodation (BBH) 338 Lincoln Rd. 0800 524 546 jail.co.nz Kiwi Basecamp (BBH) 69 Bealey Ave. 03 366 6770 kiwibasecamp.com Kiwi House 3 Devon St, Hanmer Springs. 03 315 5111, kiwihouse.co.nz Point Break Backpackers 6 Union Street. 03 388 2050 pointbreakbackpackers.co.nz The Old Countryhouse (BBH) 437 Gloucester St. 03 381 5504 oldcountryhousenz.com Tranquil Lodge 440 Manchester St. 03 366 6500 tranquil-lodge.co.nz Rucksacker Backpacker Hostel (BBH) 70 Bealey Ave. 03 377 7931, rucksacker.com Vagabond Backpackers (BBH) 232 Worcester St. 03 379 9677 vagabondhostel.com

C’CHURCH DO

Banks Peninsula is a beautiful region with a stunning coastline chock full of mountains and wildlife. The two harbours of Akaroa and Lyttelton are craters of a once majestic volcano.

LYTTELTON

About 200km north of Christchurch, the Lewis Pass connects the west and east coasts on the SH7, with stunning surrounding scenery.

HANMER SPRINGS Hanmer Springs boasts the Hanmer Springs Thermal Reserve, where the water can reach 40°C (03 315 7511, hotfun.co.nz). Mt Lyford offers good winter skiing and is a cheaper option to the South Island resorts. Department of Conservation 115 Ludstone Rd, Kaikoura 03 319 5714

Lyttelton is a quaint township with a beautiful scenic harbour and historic buildings. The harbour is a great place for boating, while the surrounding hills are good for mountain biking and walking.

The Hanmer Connection Christchurch to Hanmer Springs buses. hanmerconnection.co.nz

Lyttelton Information Centre 20 Oxford St, 03 328 9093

HANMER STAY

AKAROA Swim with dolphins, horse-ride and paraglide. If your tastes are a little more sedate, the foreshore is lined with cafes, galleries and boutiques.

Hanmer Backpackers 41 Conical Hill Rd. 03 315 7196, www.hanmerbackpackers.co.nz Jack in the Green (BBH) 3 Devon St. 03 315 5111, jackinthegreen.co.nz

Akaroa Information Centre 80 Rue Lavaud, 03 304 8600

Kakapo Lodge (YHA) 14 Amuri Avenue. 03 315 7472, kakapolodge.co.nz

Akaroa Shuttle Christchurch to Akaroa buses. 0800 500 929

Waipara Sleepers (BBH) 12 Glenmark Dr, Waipara. 03 314 6003, waiparasleepers.co.nz

Akaroa French Connection Tours and shuttle bus, 0800 800 575

AKAROA STAY Bon Accord Backpackers (BBH) 57 Rue Lavaud. 03 304 7782, bon-accord.co.nz Chez La Mer (BBH) 50 Rue Lavaud. 03 304 7024, chezlamer.co.nz Double Dutch (BBH) 32 Chorlton Road, Okains Bay. 03 304 7229, doubledutch.co.nz Halfmoon Cottage (BBH) SH25 Barrys Bay. 03 304 5050, halfmoon.co.nz

Black Cat Cruises Wildlife Cruises on Lyttelton Harbour. Free shuttle bus from Christchurch, 03 328 9078. blackcat.co.nz

Onuku Farm Hostel (BBH) 03 304 7066, onuku.co.nz

Skydivingnz.com Skydiving and training courses, 0800 697 593 skydivingnz.com

Akaroa Museum 71 Rue Lavard, 03 304 1013

Aoraki Balloon Safaris Hot air ballooning, 03 302 8172, nzballooning.com

Black Cat Cruises Offer a number of cruises in Akaroa. See Akaroa Harbour or swim with dolphins. blackcat.co.nz

SUMNER

Swim with dolphins in Akaroa Harbour. 61 Beach Rd, 0508 365 744, dolphinsakaroa.co.nz

AKAROA DO

Dolphin Experience

CASTLE HILL Gateway to the Craigieburn Range. Chill Adventures Multi-mountain snow passes. chillout.co.nz Springfield Hotel State Highway 73, Springfield. 03 318 4812, springfieldhotel.co.nz

ARTHUR’S PASS This township is the HQ for the magnificent national park which offers tramping expeditions to skiing. National Park Visitor Centre 03 318 9211 Mountain House (BBH) Main Road, Arthur’s Pass National Park. 03 318 9258 trampers.co.nz Rata Lodge Backpackers (BBH) State Highway 73, Otira Arthur’s Pass National Park, 03 738 2822 rata-lodge.co.nz The Sanctuary (BBH) 126 Main Road, Arther’s Pass National Park 03 942 2230, thesanctuary.co.nz Smylies Accommodation (YHA) 03 318 9258, yha.co.nz

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SOUTHISLAND METHVEN

LAKE TEKAPO

Methven is a small, friendly town popular with fishermen, hunters and backpackers. The area provides a variety of adrenalin thrills, including hot air ballooning, bungy jumping and skydiving. Mt Hutt also has the longest ski run in Australasia.

A stunning turquoise-coloured lake, 100km west of Timaru. The tiny Church of the Good Shepherd, built in 1935, frames the view beautifully. Activities include walking, watersports, fishing and skiing.

Methven i-SITE Visitor Centre 160 Main St, Methven, 03 302 8955, NZ Ski.com Info on Coronet Peak, the Remarkables and Mt Hutt. nzski.com

METHVEN STAY Brinkley Resort 43 Barkers Rd, Mt Hutt, 03 302 8885, brinkleyresort.co.nz Big Tree Lodge 25 S Belt, 03 302 9575, bigtreelodge.co.nz Mt Hutt Bunkhouse (BBH) 8 Lampard St. 03 302 8894, mthuttbunkhouse.co.nz Pinedale Backpacker Lodge 11 Alford St. 0800 638 483, pinedalelodge.co.nz Redwood Lodge (BBH) 3 Wayne Place. 03 302 8964, snowboardnz.com Skiwi House 30 Chapman St. 03 302 8772, skiwihouse.com Breckenridge Lodge 49 S Belt, 03 302 8902, breckenridgelodge.co.nz

TIMARU Despite being industrial, it’s picturesque with views of the Southern Alps, plains and sea. 1873 Wanderer Backpackers (BBH) 24 Evans St. 03 688 8795 Timaru Top 10 Holiday Park 154A Selwyn St, Waimataitai 0800 242 121 Anchor Motel 44 Evans St, 03 684 5067 anchormotel.co.nz

GERALDINE As well as a wonderful old movie theatre and whitewater rafting on the Rangitata River, visiting the mighty Emily Falls is recommended. Geraldine Information Centre Talbot Street, 03 693 1006

YHA Lake Tekapo 3 Simpson Lane. 03 680 6857, yha.co.nz

MT COOK Mt Cook National Park is part of a World Heritage area that forms one of the most amazing sights in NZ. The showcase is Mt Cook (Aoraki). NZ’s greatest climber Sir Edmund Hillary used it for practice before conquering Mt Everest, but Mt Cook has claimed the lives of more than 160 people. Discuss climbing plans with rangers before you go. Department of Conservation Visitor Information Centre Aoraki/Mt Cook Alpine Village, 03 435 1819 The Cook Connection Day trips to Mt Cook from Tekapo. Ph: 021 583 211, cookconnect.co.nz

MT COOK STAY YHA Franz Josef Glacier 2 Cron St, Franz Josef, 03 752 0754, mt.chalets@xtra.co.nz YHA Mt Cook Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park. 03 435 1820, yha.co.nz

biking on the Matakitaki. Buller Gorge Swingbridge Adventure and Heritage Park 03 523 9809, bullergorge.co.nz The Lazy Cow Accommodation (BBH) 37 Waller St. 03 523 9451, thelazycownz.wordpress.com

REEFTON The centrepiece of the town is Victoria Forest Park, the largest forest park in New Zealand.

Beaconstone Eco Lodge Birds Ferry Road Charleston 027 431 0491 beconstoneecolodge.co.nz The Old Slaughterhouse (BBH) Dean Creek, RD1, Highway 67, Hector 03 782 8333 oldslaughterhouse.co.nz TripInn (BBH) 72 Queen St. 03 789 7367 tripinn.co.nz

PAPAROA NP

Karamea Information Centre 106 Bridge St, 03 782 6652. Rongo Backpackers 03 782 6667, rongobackpackers.com

Rangitata Rafts Peel Forest, 0800 251 251 rafts.co.nz

With crazy terrain skewed by mining and earthquakes, one of the major attractions of Murchison is its proximity to Buller Gorge, a wonderfully scenic cluster of cliffs and trees. Activities include rafting on the Gowan River and mountain

MURCHISON

The tiny beach settlement of Okarito, near Franz Josef Glacier, sits at the mouth of New Zealand’s largest unmodified wetland – the Okarito Lagoon. Hike up to the Okarito Trig for excellent views.

Noahs Ark Backpackers (BBH) 16 Chapel St, 03 768 4868, noahs.co.nz

Bazil’s Hostel (VIP) – (BBH) 54/56 Russell St. 03 789 6410, bazils.co.nz

Visitor Information Punakaiki 03 731 1895 punakaiki.co.nz Barrytown Knife Making 2662 Coast Road, Barrytown, 03 731 1053, barrytownknifemaking.com

PAPAROA STAY Punakaiki Beach Hostel (BBH) 4 Webb St. 03 731 1852, punakaikibeachhostel.co.nz Te Nikau Retreat (BBH, YHA) 03 731 1111, tenikauretreat.co.nz Punakaiki Beach Camp Owen Street, 03 731 1894, punakaiki.co.nz

GREYMOUTH The west coast’s largest town is dominated by the Grey River. Highlights include the Monteith’s

WHATAROA

GREYMOUTH STAY

The Old Nurses Home 104 Shiel St, 03 789 8881

WESTPORT

right, it can’t look as good as that in real life. Hokitika Gorge is one of those places. hokitika.org

About 35km south of Harihari and one of the South Island’s prime fishing spots. Also the magnificent white heron (Kotuku) colony which thrillseekers can reach by jet boat.

Global Village (BBH) 42-54 Cowper St, 03 768 7272, globalvillagebackpackers.co.nz

Visitor Information Westport 1 Brougham St, 03 789 6658

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TranzAlpine Scenic railway from Christchurch to Greymouth, travelling through Canterbury Plains and the Alps. Departs 9am every morning. 0800 872 467 tranzscenic.co.nz

Reefton Old Bread Shop 155 Buller Rd, 03 732 8420, reeftonbackpackers.co.nz

This park is home to the amazing Pancake Rocks at Punakaiki. These are a series of eroded limestone rocks moulded into what appears to be a giant stack of pancakes.

KARAMEA

Visitor Information Herbert and Mackay Sts, 03 768 5101

Duke Hostel (BBH) 27 Guiness St. 03 768 9470 duke.co.nz

WEST COAST

Karamea contains pleasant walks, interesting caves and the Oparara River, a great trout fishing spot. Walk along the wonderful Fernian Track or, try the more challenging hike up Mt Stormy.

brewery tour, as well as aquatic activities like rafting and canyoning.

Reefton Visitor Centre 67 Broadway, 03 732 8391

Rugged is the word often used when it comes to the South Island’s west coast. It’s quite an amazing place, sparsely inhabited, untouched in many areas and studded with geographical wonders. Don’t miss the two mighty glaciers, Fox and Franz Josef, or the Pancake Rocks.

Peel Forest Horse Trekking Wilderness adventures trekking through some gorgeous country, 03 696 3703, peelforesthorsetrekking.co.nz

Rawhiti House (BBH) 27 Hewlings St. 03 693 8252 rawhitibackpackers.co.nz

Tailor-Made-Tekapo Backpackers (BBH) 10/11 Aorangi Cres. 03 680 6700 tailor-made-backpackers.co.nz

BOOK NOW!

Greymouth KIWI Holiday Park & Motel 318 Main South Rd, 03 762 6768, southbeach.co.nz Kainga-RA YHA 15 Alexander St, Ph: (03) 768 4951, yha.co.nz

HOKITIKA Greenstone, a form of practically indestructible rock that was used by the Maori to make weapons and ornaments, is the main attraction here. There’s also the Westland Water World for all things wet, the Glowworm Dell and some excellent whitewater rafting. Hokitika Visitor Info Centre Carnegie Building, corner of Hamilton & Tancred Street, 03 755 6166

HOKITIKA STAY Hokitika Holiday Park 242 Strafford St, 03 755 8172 Birdsong (BBH) 124 SH6, 03 755 7179 birdsong.co.nz Drifting Sands Backpackers (BBH) 197 Revell St, driftingsands.kiwi Mountain Jade Backpackers (BBH) 41 Weld St, 03 755 5185, mountainjadebackpackers.co.nz Riverview Cottage & Cabins (BBH) 154 Kaniere Rd, 03 755 7440 riverviewcottageandcabins.co.nz Stumpers Accommodation 2 Weld St, 03 755 6154, stumpers.co.nz

HOKITIKA DO Whitewater Kayaking hokitika.org Hokitika Gorge Sometimes you see photos of a tourist spot and think yeah

OKARITO

Okarito Nature Tours 03 753 4014, okarito.co.nz Okarito Beach House Close to Franz Josef Glacier, 03 753 4080 okaritohostel.com

FRANZ JOSEF The glacier is about 12km long and offers a wide variety of challenging activities. To get the ultimate perspective on the magnitude of Franz Josef, head for Sentinel Rock, which gives a sweeping view over both the Waiho Valley and the mighty glacier. DOC Visitors Information Centre Westland National Park, Hwy 6, 03 752 0796

FRANZ STAY Chateau Franz: Sir Cendrics (VIP, BBH) 8-10 Cron St, 0800 728 372, sircedrics.co.nz Glow Worm Cottages (BBH) 27 Cron St, 0800 151 027, glowwormcottages@xtra.co.nz Montrose Lodge (BBH) 9 Cron St, 03 752 0188, montroselodge.co.nz Rainforest Retreat (VIP) Cron St, 0800 873 346 rainforestretreat.co.nz YHA Franz Josef 2-4 Cron St, 03 752 0754, yha.co.nz

FRANZ DO Alpine Adventure Centre Footage on a helimax screen, 03 752 0793 scenic-flights.co.nz Franz Josef Glacier Guides Guided walks and heli-hikes on the Franz Josef Glacier 0800 484 337, franzjosefglacier.com Glacier Country Kayaks Explore the glaciers from the water 03 752 0230, glacierkayaks.com Skydive Franz At 18,000ft, they currently offer NZ’s highest skydive. 0800 458 677,

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FOX GLACIER Similiar activities to Franz Josef only with fewer crowds. The best walk is up to the Welcome Flat Hot Springs. For stunning views, head up the wonderfully scenic Chalet Lookout Walk. Look out for the beautiful kea (grey-green mountain parrot). Nearby is Lake Matheson, with its stunning twin mountain reflection. DOC Visitor Centre State Hwy 6, 03 752 0796

FOX STAY Fox Glacier Inn (BBH) 03 751 0088 foxglacierinn.co.nz Ivory Towers (BBH) 03 751 0838, ivorytowerslodge.co.nz

FOX DO Fox Glacier Guiding Guided walks and heli-hikes on the FoxGlacier. 0800 111 600, foxguides.co.nz Glacier Country Kayaks 20 Cron St, 0800 423 262, glacierkayaks.com Skydive NZ: Fox Glacier 0800 751 0080, skydivingnz.co.nz

HAAST PASS Running through Mt Aspiring National Park, this stretch of road is among the most scenic that you’ll come across in New Zealand, showing off pristine lakes, magnificent forests and waterfalls. DOC Centre Cnr SH 6 and Jackson Bay Rd, 03 750 0809 Wilderness Backpackers (BBH) Marks Rd, 03 750 029, wildernessaccommodation.co.nz

SOUTHLAND The top of your chest will quickly get sore as the South Island’s jaw-dropping scenery becomes more prevalent. From the adrenalin thrills of Queenstown to the achingly beautiful Milford Sound, there’s never a dull moment down south. Stop frequently, take deep breaths and enjoy one of the most beautiful places on Earth. Mt Aspiring National Park Visitor Info Centre Mt Earnslaw, 03 443 7660

LAKE WANAKA The cosy town and its crystal-clear waters which reflect the dramatic landscape is the gateway to Mount Aspiring Park. The World Heritage area has magnificent tramping and mountaineering. Lake Wanaka boasts almost as many adrenalintastic activities as neighbouring Queenstown, such as mountain

biking, jet-boating, canyoning, and whitewater sledging. It’s a favourite with snowboarders in winter, and has lively nightlife year-round. Boasting the most sceneray from those films with wizards and hairyfooted hobbits, there are great Lord of the Rings tours, too. Lake Wanaka Visitors Centre The Log Cabin, Lakefront, 100 Ardmore Street. 03 4431 1233

WANAKA STAY Holly’s Backpackers (BBH) 71 Upton St, 03 443 8187, hollys-backpacker.co.nz LHH (BBH) 1 Capell Ave, 03 443 1224, lakehawea.co.nz Mountain View Backpackers (BBH) 7 Russell St, 0800 112 201, wanakabackpackers.co.nz Matterhorn South (BBH) 56 Brownston St, 03 443 1119, matterhornsouth.co.nz The Purple Cow (BBH) 94 Brownston St, 03 443 1880, purplecow.co.nz Wanaka Bakpaka (BBH) 117 Lakeside Rd, 03 443 7837, wanakabakpaka.co.nz YHA Wanaka 181 Upton St, 03 443 7405, yha.co.nz

WANAKA DO Adventure Consultants Mountaineering instruction courses and guided ascents, 03 443 8711, adventure.co.nz Aspiring Guides Guided mountain climbing and ice climbing instruction courses, 03 443 9422, aspiringguides.com Classic Flights Vintage Tiger Moth flights over Lake Wanaka. 03 443 4043, classicflights.co.nz Deep Canyon Canyoning in the Matukituki Valley. Adventure Wanaka, 23 Dunmore St, Wanaka. 03 443 7922, deepcanyon.co.nz Frogz Have More Fun Sledge down either the Clutha, Hawea or Kawarau Rivers. 0800 437 649, frogz.co.nz

Wanaka Rock Climbing One, three and five-day rock climbing courses for everyone. 03 443 6411, wanakarock.co.nz Wanaka Flightseeing Milford Sound flight and cruise from Wanaka, 03 443-8787, flightseeing.co.nz Wanaka Sightseeing Includes Lord of the Rings tours, 2 Anderson Rd, 03 338 0982, wanakasightseeing.co.nz

LAKE HAWEA Thirty-five kilometres long and more than 400m deep, Lake Hawea is a great source of salmon and rainbow trout.

QUEENSTOWN Paradise for the energetic traveller, Queenstown is one of the world’s most action-packed towns. The town, which is surprisingly small compared to its big reputation, is located on Lake Wakatipu and rises up to the peaks of the aptly-named Remarkables (which you can ski in winter). In winter, the town is a centre for nearby skifields and in summer adventure activities and tramping take over. There’s also a hectic social scene which extends well into the wee small hours. Info & Track Guided Walks 37 Shotover St, 03 442 9708 Peterpans Adventure Travel 27 Shotover St Queenstown. peterpans.com.au Queenstown Travel & Visitor Centre Corner of Shotover & Camp Sts, 03 442 4100

Q’TOWN STAY Alpine Lodge (BBH) 13 Gorge Rd. 03 442 7220, alpinelodgebackpackers.co.nz Aspen Lodge (BBH) 11 Gorge Rd. 03 442 9671, aspenlodge.co.nz Base Discovery Lodge Queenstown 49 Shotover St. 03 441 1185, stayatbase.com Black Sheep Lodge (VIP) 13 Frankton Rd. 03 442 7289, blacksheepbackpackers.co.nz Bungi Backpackers (VIP, BBH) 15 Sydney St. 0800 728 286, bungibackpackers.co.nz Butterfli Lodge (BBH) 62 Thompson St. 03 442 6367, butterfli.co.nz

The Silver Demon Aerobatic flights. 03 443 4043, silverdemon.co.nz

Cardrona Alpine Resort Between Queenstown and Wanaka. 03 443 7341, cardrona.com

Skydive Lake Wanaka Freefall from 12,000 or 15,000ft with views of NZ’s highest mountains. 0800 786 877, skydivenz.com

Deco Backpackers (VIP, BBH) 52 Man St. 03 442 7384, decobackpackers.co.nz

Treble Cone Ski Field 03 443 7443, treblecone.co.nz

Flaming Kiwi Backpackers (BBH) 39 Robins Rd. 03 442 5494, flamingkiwi.co.nz Hippo Lodge (BBH)

4 Anderson Hts. 03 442 5785, hippolodge.co.nz

0800 467 325, tandemparagliding.com

The Last Resort Queenstown (BBH) 6 Memorial St. 03 442 4320, tlrqtn.com

Haka Adventure Snow Tours 03 980 4250, hakatours.com Mad Dog River Boarding River sledging & other actionpacked water activities, 03 442 7797, riverboarding.co.nz

Nomads Queenstown 5-11 Church St. 03 441 3922, nomadshostels.com Pinewood Lodge (VIP) Queenstown’s best value accommodation. We offer an excellent variety of accommodation, everything from deluxe en-suite rooms with private bathroom amenities, inexpensive double and twin rooms, dorm beds and selfcontained family cabins. 48 Hamilton Rd. 0800 746 396, 03 442 8273, pinewood.co.nz Southern Laughter: Sir Cedrics (BBH, VIP) 4 Isle St. 0800 441 8828, sircedrics.co.nz

Milford Sound Flightseeing Scenic flights to Milford Sound, 0800 65 65 01, realjourneys.co.nz NZONE Skydive Skydive from 15,000ft. 35 Shotover St, 03 442 5867, nzone.biz NZ Ski.com Info on Coronet Peak, the Remarkables and Mt Hutt, nzski.com Queenstown Rafting Raft the Shotover, Kawarau and Landsborough rivers. 35 Shotover St. 03 442 9792 rafting.co.nz

Scallywags Travellers’ Guesthouse (BBH) 27 Lomond Crescent. 03 442 7083, bbh.co.nz

Real Journeys Visitor Centre Doubtful Sound & Milford Sound daytime and overnight cruises. Te Anau glow-worm cave excursions. TSS Earnslaw vintage steamship cruises and Walter Peak High Country Farm. 0800 65 65 01, realjourneys.co.nz

YHA Queenstown Central 48A Shotover Street. 03 442 7400, yha.co.nz YHA Queenstown Lakefront 88-90 Lake Esplanade. 03 442 8413, yha.co.nz

Q’TOWN DO There are hundreds of activities to keep you occupied in Queenstown. Bungy, jetboating and rafting are all experiences not to be missed, and in winter, skiing the Remarkables is a must. To really appreciate the beauty of the region, take a scenic flight, or even jump out the plane. AJ Hackett Bungy Queenstown Jump off one or all of New Zealand’s most well-known sites. Nevis Highwire Bungy, the highest in New Zealand – 134m above the Nevis River. The Kawarau Bridge, the world’s first bungy – 43m above the Kawarau River. The 47m Ledge, 400m above the town which you can jump day or night. Access is by Skyline Gondola. 0800 286 4958 bungy.co.nz

Shotover Canyon Swing Jump or be released 109m off the world’s highest cliff jump. 0800 279 464, canyonswing.co.nz Shotover Jet Jetboat ride. 0800 746 868 shotoverjet.com Sky Trek Hang Gliding 03 442 9551, skytrek.co.nz Vertigo Mountain Biking Heli-bike and gondola downhill. 0800 837 8446, vertigobikes.co.nz

GLENORCHY Just out of Queenstown is Glenorchy (or “Isengard”) which has some of the best walks in the area, including the Greenstone and Caples tracks. Department of Conservation Beech St, 03 442 7933

Awesome Foursome Bungy (Nevis – 134m), jetboat, helicopter, whitewater rafting, combos.co.nz

Glenorchy Backpackers Retreat (VIP) Cnr Mull and Argyle Streets, Glenorchy, glenorchynz.com

Dart River Safaris Jetboating wilderness tours, 0800 327 8538, dartriver.co.nz

Kinloch Lodge 862 Kinloch Rd, 03 442 4900, kinlochlodge.co.nz

Fat Tyre Adventure Mountain biking/heli biking, 0800 328 897, fat-tyre.co.nz Fergburger Best burgers in NZ. Shotover St, fergburger.com Flight Park Tandem Paragliding Operates from Coronet Peak

ARROWTOWN Poplar Lodge 4 Merioneth St, 03 442 1466, poplarlodge.co.nz Arrowtown Holiday Park 12 Centennial Ave, 03 442 1876

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SOUTHISLAND TE ANAU Home to the second largest lake in NZ, Te Anau is a beautiful little town, a good jumping off point for the World Heritage Fiordland National Park. The park is the largest in New Zealand and offers some spectacular sightseeing. The Milford Track is one of the most famous in the world, but often booked out. The Routeburn, ReesDart and Kepler are ace alternatives. doc.govt.nz Fiordland I-site Visitor Centre Lakefront Drive, Te Anau, 03 249 8900 Department of Conservation 03 249 8514 Te Anau Glowworm Caves realjourneys.co.nz Air Fiordland Flights to Queenstown, Milford and Mt Cook, 03 249 7505, airfiordland.co.nz Real Journeys Coaches to Milford Sound, 0800 656 503 realjourneys.co.nz Scenic Shuttle Daily between Te Anau and Invercargill in summer months, twice weekly in winter. Connects with the Catlins Coaster from Invercargill to Dunedin 0800 277 483 Top Line Tours Coach to and from Te Anau and Queenstown, 03 249 8059

TE ANAU STAY Barnyard Backpackers (BBH) 80 Mt York Rd, Rainbow Downs, 03 249 8006, barnyard.moonfruit.com Bob & Maxine’s (BBH) 20 Paton Place, 03 931 3161, bbh.co.za Rosie’s Backpacker Homestay (BBH) 23 Tom Plato Drive, Lake Te Anau, 03 249 8431, rosiesbackpackers.co.nz Te Anau Lakefront Backpackers (BBH) 48/50 Lakefront Dr, 03 249 7713, teanaubackpackers.co.za Steamers Beach Backpackers (BBH) 77 Manapouri- Te Anau Hwy, 03 249 7737, smarturl.it/steamersbeach YHA Te Anau 29 Mokonui St, 03 249 7847, yha.co.nz

TE ANAU DO Adventure Fiordland 72 Town Centre, 03 249 8500 fiordlandaventure.co.nz High Ride Adventures Quad riding and scenic horse trekking. 03 249 8591, highride.co.nz Luxmore Jet Jetboating on the Waiau River, 0800 253 826,

luxmorejet.co.nz Real Journeys Doubtful Sound daytime wilderness, small boat and overnight cruises. Milford Sound daytime, overnight scenic, nature and small boat cruises. 0800 656 501, realjourneys.co.nz Milford Track Day Walk Lake cruise and guided walk, 0800 656 501 milfordlodge.co.nz Rosco’s Milford Sound Sea Kayaks 0800 476 726, roscosmilfordkayaks.com Skydive Fiordland Dive 44 Caswell Rd, Te Anau, 0800 829254, tawakidive.co.nz

ANAU TO MILFORD The distance between Te Anau and Milford Sound may be 119km but the breathtaking scenery along the way makes the journey extremely enjoyable. Along the road watch out for the Mirror Lakes and the disappearing mountain. Another highlight is the 1.2km rough-hewn Homer Tunnel. It’s pitch black, having no lighting plus it’s pretty darn steep – a thrilling experience for those afraid of the dark.

MILFORD SOUND Green, wet and breathtakingly beautiful, Milford Sound is one of the most picturesque sights in the world. Much of the action in the Milford Sound takes place on the water and the best way to appreciate the beauty on show is on a cruise or kayak. Bottlenose dolphins, New Zealand fur seals and Fiordland crested penguins all hang out there.

MILFORD DO Real Journeys 0800 656 501, realjourneys.co.nz Great Sights On and under the water, 03 442 9445 greatsights.co.nz Milford Sound Underwater Observatory Discover a coral reef beneath Milford Sound, 03 249 9442 Milford Sound Cruise & Observatory Visit 0800 656 501

BOOK NOW! realjourneys.co.nz Wanaka Flightseeing Milford Sound flight and cruise, 0800 105 105, flightseeing.co.nz 

MANAPOURI Manapouri is the proud owner of arguably New Zealand’s most beautiful stretch of water. This is where the boat trip on Doubtful Sound leaves from – most start the trip in Queenstown or Te Anau. From the boat you may see seals and possibly dolphins and penguins. Adventure Charters and Hires fiordlandadventure.co.nz Real Journeys 03 249 6602 realjourneys.co.nz

MANAPOURI STAY Freestone Backpackers (BBH) 270 Hillside Rd, 03 249 6893, freestone.co.nz Manapouri Lakeview Motor Inn 68 Cathedral Drive, 03 249 6652, manapouri.co.nz Possum Lodge 13 Murrel Ave, 03 249 6623, possumlodge.co.nz

DOUBT SOUND If you’re not one for crowds, an alternative Fiordland option is Doubtful Sound – the deepest of the fiords, made up of 100km of waterways. Where Milford is all pointy peaks and endless cascading falls, Doubtful is rounded mountains – a serene sanctuary, inhabited by loads of interesting critters. Real Journeys Daytime wilderness, small boat and overnight cruises. 0800 656 502 realjourneys.co.nz Fiordland Navigator Pearl Harbour, Manapouri 03 249 6602, doubtfulsound.co.nz Deep Cove Hostel Doubtful Sound, 03 249 7713, deepcovehostel.co.nz

INVERCARGILL

Milford Wanderer Cruises Day and overnight options with kayaking, etc. Coach connections, 0800 656 501, realjourneys.co.nz

The southernmost city in New Zealand, Invercargill is a farmingorientated community with a pleasant collection of parks and museums to keep you busy.

Tawaki Dive See Fiordland’s unique marine life on a day-trip with two guided dives in Milford Sound. Rental gear available, max four divers. 0800 829254, tawakidive.co.nz

Invercargill I-site Visitors Centre 108 Gala St, 03 214 6243

TSS Earnslaw & Walter Peak Farm tours, barbecue lunches, horse treks and cycling.

wildlife encounters. Farmstay options are available, 0800 304333, catlinscoaster.co.nz

STEWART ISLAND Stewart Island Flights Flights to Stewart Island, 03 218 9129, stewartislandflights.co.nz Bunkers Backpackers (BBH) 13 Argyle St, Halfmoon Bay, Stweart Island, 027 738 1796 bunkersbackpackers.co.nz

INVERCARG STAY

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CATLINS STAY Wrights Mill Lodge 865 Tahakopa Valley, 03 204 8424 Lazy Dolphin 529 Curio Bay Rd, 03 246 8579. lazydolphinlodge.co.nz Cedar Tree Lodge (BBH) 36 Hosptial Road, 027 611 7932. goldbox.catering@gmail.com Happy Inn Backpackers (BBH) 11 Shakespeare St, 03 417 4161. happyinn@clear.net.nz

Southern Comfort (BBH) 30 Thompson St, 03 218 3838 bbh.co.nz

Fernlea Backpackers (VIP) Moana St, Kaka Point, 03 412 8834

Tuatara Backpacker Lodge 30 Dee St, 03 214 0956, tuataralodge.co.nz

The Split Level (BBH) 9 Waikawa Rd, Owaka, 03 415 8304, thesplitlevel.co.nz

SOUTH SCENIC The beautiful road west of Invercargill towards Fiordland is known as the Southern Scenic Route.

Surat Bay Lodge (BBH) Surat Bay Rd, New Haven, 03 415 8099, suratbay.co.nz

Pepper Tree Hostel 121 Grey St, Palmerston, 06 335 4054, peppertreehostel.co.nz

Penguin Paradise Holiday Lodge (BBH) 612 Waikawa-Niagara Rd, Waikawa Village South Catlins, 03 2468 552, catlins-surf.co.nz/736.html

Grandma’s Place 146 Grey St, Palmerston North, 06 358 6928, grandmas-place.co.nz

Thomas Catlins Lodge & Holiday Park, 8 Clark St, Owaka 03 415 8333, thomascatlins.co.nz

The Globe Backpackers (VIP) 144 Palmerston St, Riverton, 03 234 8527, globebackpackers@xtra.co.nz

Wright’s Mill Lodge 865 Tahakopa Valley Rd, 03 204 8424 catlinsaccommodation.co.nz

Harbison Backpackers 5 Harbison St, Otautau, 03 225 8715, michdale@xtra.co.nz Shooters Backpackers (BBH) 73 Main St, Tuatapere, 03 226 6250

GORE Gore spans the Mataura river and boasts some lovely scenery in the Hokonui Hills and the Country and Western festival each June. Oakleight Motels 70 Hokonui Dr, 03 208 4863, oakleighmotel.co.za

THE CATLINS The beautiful Catlins is a sprawling mass of bush, forest and rivers, stretching all the way from Waipapa Point in Southland to Nugget Point in Otago. The best bit about the Catlins is the abundance of wildlife.

Dept of Conservation Office Don St, 03 214 4589

Catlins Community Info Centre 3 Main Rd, Owaka, South Otago, 03 415 8371, catlins.org.nz

Catlins Coaster Invercargill to Dunedin via the Catlins with many stops to the main natural attractions and

Elm Lodge Wildlife Tours Two-day camping trips, 0800 356 563, elmwildlifetours.co.nz

DUNEDIN Dunedin is Celtic for “Edinburgh” and many Scottish principles endure here. One thing the locals do much better than their Scots ancestors is play rugby, so if there’s a game on at Carisbrook (the “House of Pain”) while you’re in town, beg, borrow or steal to get yourself there. Dunedin Visitor Centre 48 The Octagon, 03 474 3300 Dept of Conservation Office 77 Stuart St, 03 477 0677 Penguin Patch 9 the Octagon, 03 471 8571, Email: penguinpatch@xtra.co.nz

DUNEDIN STAY Chalet Backpackers (BBH) 296 High St, 03 479 2075 chaletbackpackers.co.nz Dunedin Central Backpackers (BBH) 243 Moray Pl, 03 477 9985, centralbackpackers.co.nz Pavlova Palace (BBH) 74 Elm Row, 03 477 34728 pavlovapalace.co.nz Hogwartz (BBH)

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277 Rattray St, 03 474 1487, hogwartz.co.nz Kiwis Nest (BBH) 597 George St, 03 471 9540, kiwisnest.co.nz Leviathan Hotel 27 Queens Gardens, 0800 773 773, dunedinhotel.co.nz Manor House 28 Manor Place, 03 477 0484, manorhousebackpackers.co.nz On Top Backpackers (BBH) 12 Filleul St, cnr Moray Pl, 03 477 6121, ontopbackpackers.co.nz Pennys Backpackers (BBH) 6 Stafford St, 03 477 6027, pennys.co.nz Next Stop Backpackers 2 View St, 03 477 0477, nextstop.co.nz YHA Dunedin, Stafford Gables 71 Stafford St, 03 474 1919, yha.co.nz

DUNEDIN DO Baldwin Street In the Guinness Book of Records as the steepest street in the world.

Cadbury World 280 Cumberland St, 0800 223 2879, cadbury.co.nz Cosmic Corner Funk Store Check out the legal highs and chat to the staff about where to go for parties, events and the beautiful parts of New Zealand. 355 George St, 03 479 2949 Dunedin Public Art Gallery 30 The Octagon, 03 474 3240, dpagmail@dcc.govt.nz Oamaru Blue Penguin Colony View blue penguins just metres away every evening at dusk. Waterfront Rd, 1-1/2 hrs north of Dunedin, 03 433 1195, penguins.co.nz Parachute Experience Skydiving from a great height 03 489 4113, dropzone.com Sinclair Wetlands and Educational Centre Freedom or conducted walks over 5km of walkways. Backpacker and camping facilities. Rapid no 854 Clarendon/Berwick Rd

(signposted on SH1 30km south of Dunedin), 03 486 2654 Speights Brewery Heritage Tours 03 477 7697 speights.co.nz Royal Albatross Centre 03 478 0499, albatross.org.nz

OTAGO PENINSULA The Otago Peninsula is a beautiful stretch of rugged coast, home to a fascinating collection of rare and native birds such as the albatross and yellow-eyed penguin. Billy Browns (BBH) 423 Aramoana Rd, Port Chalmers, 03 472 8323, billybrowns.co.nz McFarmers Backpackers 774 Portobello Rd, Portobello, 02 5206 0640, mcfarmers@xtra.co.nz Pinot Lodge (BBH) 102 Barry Avenue, Cromwell, Fiordland 03 445 1260, pinotlodgenz.com

OTAGO DO Historic Fort Taiaroa An underground complex built

in the 1880s, this fortified stronghold has been inhabited since earliest Maori settlement of the area. Tours available at the Visitor Centre. Fletcher House, Broad Bay, 03 478 0180

ROXBURGH Villa Rose Backpackers 79 Scotland St, 03 446 8761, villarose.co.nz

Larnach Castle Australasia’s only castle. The architecture is amazing and the intricate details (including a foyer ceiling that took nearly seven years to build) are breathtaking. NZ Marine Studies Centre and Aquarium Run by the University of Otago, the Portobello Aquarium and Marine Biology Centre (near Quarantine Point) is a refuge for a diverse collection of fish and reptile life. 03 479 5826 Elm Wildlife Tours 0800 356 563, elmwildlifetours.co.nz

ALEXANDRA Alexandra and Roxburgh are the two main towns for fruit-picking work in the Central Otago region. Grasshopper Rock One of the world’s southernmost vineyards, situated on the Earnscleugh Rd. grasshopperrock.co.nz

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

OAMARU A charming little place noted for both its interesting collection of white granular limestone buildings and its large penguin population. Visitor Information Centre Thames St, 03 434 1656 Oamaru Blue Penguin Colony View blue penguins at dusk. Waterfront Rd, 03 433 1195, penguins.co.nz Ahuriri Backpackers (BBH) 5 Clay Cliffs Lane 03 438 9451 ahuririmotels.co.nz Chillawhile Backpackers (BBH) & Art Gallery 1 Frome St, Roberts Park, 03 437 0168, chillawhile.co.nz Coastal Backpackers (BBH) The Hall, Waianakarua Rd, All Day Bay, 03 439 5411, coastalbackpackers.co.nz Buscot Station (BBH) 732 Omarama, 03 438 9646, buscotstn@xtra.co.nz Empire Hotel (BBH) 13 Thames St, 03 434 3446, empirehotel@hotmail.com Old Bones Lodge (BBH) 468 Beach Rd, 03 434 8115, oldbones.co.nz YHA Oamaru, Red Kettle Seasonal (open September/ October to May/June only). Corner of Reed and Cross Sts, 03 434 5008, yha.co.nz Swaggers Backpackers (BBH) 25 Wansbeck St, 03 434 9999, swaggersbackpackers.co.nz

MOERAKI Just 30km south of Oamaru lies a remarkable collection of eerie giant boulders.

MT COOK It’s the tallest mountain in Australasia, at 3,754m, and the drive there, past the stunning blue Lake Pukaki is almost as jaw-droppingly gorgeous as the destination itself. Get your camera at the ready.

Riverside Haven (BBH) 2328 SH1, Waianakarua, 03 439 5830, olivebranch.co.nz The Dubliner 105 Tiverton St, Palmerston, 03 465 8123

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A drop in the ocean Snorkel with turtles, watch herds of elephants, discover temples, and trek through tea plantations on the teardrop island of Sri Lanka WORDS HARRIET SINCLAIR

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Tucked away at the bottom of India and surrounded by the Indian Ocean, the island of Sri Lanka is a haven for wildlife, filled with solitary beaches and snorkelling opportunities, plates of spicy curries, bustling cities and temples galore. The usual mentality of people visiting Sri Lanka is to choose either the greenery and wildlife of the hill country and the north, or the relaxing vibe of the south, where all those beautiful beaches are. However, there’s no reason why a trip to Sri Lanka can’t take in the best bits of the whole county – particularly now that the previously war-torn north has become more accessible to tourists (although there is still a visible presence of the former situation in the region, such as checkpoints and so on). A well-planned trip to the country has the potential to include everything from a surf lesson in Weligama and a dive to an old shipwreck to a cooking course in Galle town and elephant feeding in Kandy.

Colombo Many travellers pass through this sprawling city and head down to the south without as much as a backward glance. Don’t make the same mistake – Colombo has plenty to offer visitors, from museums, galleries and tours to balloon rides, meditation centres, golf, shopping and restaurants. THINGS TO DO: Get your camera out and be prepared for a whole lot of sightseeing. Colombo has a seemingly endless list of temples, churches, mosques, bell towers, and period buildings to see; and yes, some of them really are worth a visit. The Sri Kailawasanathar Swami Devasthanam Kovil is said to be the oldest Hindu Temple in the country and is one of the most elaborately decorated buildings you’re likely to see, while the Gangaramaya Buddhist Temple is the most famous Buddhist site in the city. For culture vultures, the ››

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The Sri Kailawasanathar Swami Devasthanam Kovil in Colombo is said to be the oldest Hindu Temple in the country

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Galle Fort, Galle Galle & surrounding areas Although many people consider a visit to Sri Lanka incomplete without including beach time in Unawatuna or a stroll around Galle fort, the area is refreshingly free of crowds and largely unspoilt by tourism. THINGS TO DO: In such a beautiful area, it’s hard to muster up the energy to do anything bar taking pictures and kicking back with a cocktail. However, Galle and the areas nearby (including Unawatuna and Koggala) have a lot more to offer. A stroll around Galle Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a must. Much of the fort’s walls are now covered in grass, facing out into the sea, and there are more than a few photo opportunities here. In the town of Galle itself, cafés, cute shops and restaurants are dotted up and down picturesque streets, and locals are more than happy to point you in the direction of top-notch grub. The little town is also a great place to book onto a Sri Lankan cooking course. Most lessons will encompass a market tour – where you can see exactly which spices and produce are going into the food you’ll prepare later – and are a great way to take some knowledge of the country’s delicious cuisine back home with you. Plus, you get to eat at the end of the evening. Winner. Just outside Galle, near Koggala, it’s possible to book onto a rainforest trek to learn more about the country’s ecosystem and spot exotic birds, monkeys aplenty and, unfortunately, the odd leech. Top tip: long sleeves and trousers are a must. In Koggala itself, the turtle hatchery (yes, it is as cute as it sounds) is a great place to see baby turtles, and, for a lucky few, release them back into the sea. If you’re fortunate enough to be in Sri Lanka between December and April, the area is a perfect base from which to book a whale watching trip. Tours take place about an hour’s drive from Koggala and start at around 6am (so get set for an early wake-up call). All that yawning is worth it though; you’re likely to spot sperm whales, blue whales and dolphins. GOING OUT: Head to one of the beachfront bars and restaurants in Unawatuna for some Sri Lankan food and beer

Pictures: Getty, Thinkstock, and 50bucksabroad.com/blog

Colombo National Museum houses artefacts important to Sri Lanka’s history, while the National Art Gallery alongside the museum is a great place to check out the country’s best artists. Indoor exploring isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, and luckily Colombo has an abundance of outdoor activities. The cycling tour of the city is a great way to get your bearings and see Colombo’s hotspots. Choose from a suburban cycling tour – taking in the Talangama Wetlands, semi-urban areas, and lake surrounding the Sri Lankan Parliament – or the urban tour, which includes the Gangaramaya Buddhist Temple, Manning Market station, and Sri Lanka’s Supreme Court. If you’re keen to stay active, but want to try something a little more adventurous, there are white-water rafting trips in the area, or you can organise a hot air balloon trip over the city. When all the ballooning, biking, and general hubbub of the city get to be a little bit much, relaxation is the order of the day. There are seemingly hundreds of day spas in Colombo, which offer everything from a quick foot rub to a full-on body polish. If you’re in need of an even longer break from the hustle and bustle, there are several yoga classes (or courses) to try. GOING OUT: Although Colombo doesn’t have quite the nightlife reputation of Bangkok or Hong Kong, like any big, bustling city there are still plenty of pubs, clubs and bars to be found. Curry Leaf restaurant is well known for serving fantastic Sri Lankan fare, and there is also plenty of street food on offer from stalls dotted around the city. Big spenders would be well-advised to head to the Fort district – which is also the financial centre of the city – where there are a string of upmarket cocktail bars, as well as fancy hotel dining. Alternatively, a little way down Galle Road, there are a number of drinking establishments and clubs (both classy and questionable) to choose from. STAY: Escape the city’s hustle and bustle at Colombo Beach Hostel in Mount Lavinia colombobeachostel.com, or, for a more central location close to the action, try Clock Inn Colombo clockinn.lk.

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See tea plantations around Galle and Kandy (or try the locally brewed arrak, which is distilled from the sap of coconut flowers, if you’re feeling brave). You’re also likely to find the odd late-night bar or low-key club along one of these stretches of beach if retiring early doesn’t float your boat, but be warned – Ministry of Sound it ain’t. Think drunken dancing in flip flops to dubious music with a gaggle of other backpackers. STAY: Treat yourself with an eco-luxury style stay on an old tea plantation at kahandakanda.com or try one of the many (cheaper) backpacker hostels in Unawatuna. Kandy and nearby

Pictures: Getty, Thinkstock, and 50bucksabroad.com/blog

A visit to Kandy and the hill country is an absolute must during a trip to Sri Lanka. This green wonderland is the cultural heart of the country; filled with trekking opportunities, tea plantations, monkeys, dense jungle and temples – this verdant wonderland is just begging to be explored. THINGS TO DO: The beauty of this area is, well, the beauty of it. A simple drive or stroll provides myriad opportunities to gaze over miles and miles of green – a little like The Land of Oz, but without the wizard. There are flying (or rather leaping) monkeys in abundance though – and their chattering is a wonderful sound to wake up to. If you’re really keen to get into the nature of the area, there are a variety of treks on offer, mainly to the Knuckles Mountain Range and other nearby sweet spots. Hikes in this area can vary from short (just one day) to a long weekend or even a week, and include dazzling views, waterfalls and tea plantations. For the more adventurous, there are also opportunities to try mountain biking and rafting. A visit to the hill country wouldn’t be complete without a proper tour of a tea plantation, where visitors learn about how tea is grown and harvested, as well as get an opportunity to try the tea (yum). There are also some beautiful temples in the region, including the Temple of the Tooth, which houses the relic of the tooth of Buddha. The temple is situated within the Royal Palace Complex in

Temple of the Tooth, Kandy Kandy, right next to a rather picturesque lake – perfect for quiet contemplation (and a few holiday snaps to make the folks back home jealous). Visits to the hill country are often associated with the nearby elephant orphanage of Pinnawala, where visitors can feed elephants, watch them frolicking in the river, and learn about how paper can be made from elephant poo (lovely). GOING OUT: Kandy and the hill country isn’t known for the crazy nightlife – a single glance at the quiet natural beauty of the place is enough to suggest that most of its inhabitants are likely to be tucked up in bed by 9pm. That said, there are a number of rather up-market restaurants hidden away in the region – including Heritance Tea Factory in Nuwara Eliya; the most extravagant of its several eateries being TCK 6685, a converted 1930s railway carriage. For a less excessive evening, there are a number of massage centres in Kandy that specialise in ayurvedic treatments – a full body massage will ensure a blissful night’s sleep. STAY: For a central location in Kandy and a breathtaking balcony, the Drop Inn Kandy is a good bet, or there are opportunities to arrange a homestay in hill country, which is a great way to learn more about the area and the people who live there (plus enjoy a home-cooked meal). The south Sri Lanka’s southern coast provides a real mish-mash of places – from good surf and snorkelling destinations, remote beaches, religious sites and new developments to stunning nationals parks filled with a variety of flora and fauna. THINGS TO DO: There’s a reason many backpackers bypass the allures of the hill country and head straight for the coast – the beaches. Busy, empty, developed or remote, Sri Lanka’s beaches have a little something for everyone. Start by grabbing a board and hitting the waves around Weligama (surf lessons can be booked here, or those who already know how can opt for board hire), or, if you’d rather see what’s under the waves, head to Polhena beach and rent TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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See tea plantations around Galle and Kandy

a snorkel or book onto a dive. You’re likely to spot a variety of fish among the reefs, and even the odd turtle. Out of the water, Weligama is largely a sleepy beach town, but does have a few little spots worth exploring. The coconut factory is a great little place to poke around and learn about the variety of uses for the humble nut, plus there’s the usual offering of splendid temples as well as an organic fruit farm. Inland, Udawalawe National Park is well worth a visit. Slap bang in the middle of two provinces, Uva and Sabaragamuwa, the park is home to wild boar, leopards (eek!) and herds of elephants. The best way to explore the park is, of course, with a guide (srilankaecotourism.com), usually in a 4x4 – meaning you can cover more ground and hopefully see some of the more exciting animals the park has to offer. Around an hour’s drive from the national park is the town of Kataragama, which is one of the country’s most important religious sites. People from all manner of religious backgrounds make pilgrimages to the town, where a shrine to the God Skandha lies within a large temple complex. The town also hosts a yearly Kataragama festival, in the Sinhalese Calendar month of Esala (July/August), which is held in honour of the God Skandha. During the festival, the town becomes filled with dancing crowds and lots of firewalking. GOING OUT: It’s no surprise that the dining speciality in the beach town of Tangalle (sometimes called Tangalla) is seafood. There are numerous idyllic beach huts selling a variety of fishy delights of an evening, while the nearby seafront bars are expert at whipping up an excellent afterdinner cocktail (or three). STAY: For a seafront location, Beach Inns (beach-inns. com), near Matara, is a great place to lay your hat, or, for those who can’t bear to leave the national park, a stay at Grand Udawalawe Safari Resort (udawalawesafari.com) is a real treat. Alternatively, there are other more budgetconscious options in the park. Far north Sri Lanka’s northernmost regions tend to go unexplored by tourists – thanks largely to several decades of civil war 86

and the resulting travel restrictions in the area, plus the physical remnants of war (some parts are still heavily mined, for example). However, the area is opening up, and provides great rewards for the intrepid traveller. THINGS TO DO: Simply being in the north of the country is its own experience. Geographically, Jaffna – the northernmost point in Sri Lanka – sits right underneath the southern tip of India, which has led to inevitable comparisons between the town’s cuisine and culture and that of south India. Such an assessment isn’t without its value – one bite of the distinctive northern cuisine is enough to tell that the north is proud of its neighbour’s influence. The pretty town of Jaffna has its own fort as well as temples and noteworthy buildings such as the recently restored library and the archaeology museum. A stroll around here is a must-do and is the best way to enjoy the different, slightly set-apart vibe of the country’s north. Plus it is a great opportunity to meet the eternally friendly people (and, as a tourist, you may even find yourself the main attraction). Outside of the town, there are a number of tranquil beach spots on the Jaffna peninsula that certainly warrant a trip. Chatty Beach, on Kayts (one of the many tiny islands off the peninsula), is a particularly nice spot to soak up a few rays. South of Jaffna, near Mannar Island, is the Giant’s Tank Sanctuary, which, despite the name, is not a rescue home for large old tanks but a massive irrigation reservoir that also happens to be a great place for bird watching and possibly spotting the odd elephant or two (but be warned, wild elephants should never be approached). Mannar Island itself is also a pretty little spot to visit – if a little out of the way. This is one best to be enjoyed with a cold drink and a big book. GOING OUT: Due to its turbulent history, Jaffna and the nearby areas are largely under-developed in terms of tourism infrastructure – including nightlife. However, there are several nice cafes and restaurants in the area, including Gnanams Café in Vavuniya (a town the majority of people venturing up to the north pass through enroute to Jaffna),

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and Mangos restaurant in Jaffna, which serves curries and excellent dosas. It is also possible to visit the Hindu Kovil near the Keerimalai springs for a vegetarian lunch. STAY: If you’re looking to save money, the good ol’ YMCA hostel in Jaffna is an incredibly cheap option. For a few more home comforts (including a swimming pool), the Green Grass Hotel (jaffnagreengrass.com) is right in the centre of town. Batticaloa and surrounding area Batticaloa, which is affectionately called ‘Batti’ and known as the land of the ‘singing fish’ thanks to fish under the Lady Manning Bridge which make a noise that sounds like a plucked guitar string, is pretty far from the usual tourist trail. Despite its beautiful setting of beaches, islands and lagoons, it doesn’t draw in large numbers of holidaymakers – which is all the more relaxing for those who do venture there. THINGS TO DO: If you don’t feel chilled out on the beaches around Batticaloa, well, you’ll never feel calm anywhere. Picture perfect, mostly deserted, and dipping into the Indian Ocean, it’s the kind of place you daydream about during a sweaty commute to work. Batticaloa’s three lagoons are also laze-worthy spots, and the birds and fishermen (who you’ll often spot pulling their daily catch from the water) make it all the prettier. For those who feel the need to get into the sea rather than lie beside it, there are opportunities to go snorkelling, swimming, kayaking and take boat trips in the area (including journeys with local fisherman to see the rumoured ‘singing fish’

the town is famous for), as well as guided dives to the underwater HMS Hermes aircraft carrier, which sunk in 1942 after being attacked by Japanese aircraft off the coast of Sri Lanka. On land, the Old Dutch Fort (yes, there are a lot of forts in Sri Lanka), which is more than 350 years old, is a good place to take a stroll around. The fort now houses local government offices, but much of the original Sri Lankan elephants structure remains intact, are mighty friendly and you’ll also spot the odd canon on site. The town’s other structure of note is the nearby lighthouse, which is well worth a visit – particularly as eager photographers (and those who aren’t afraid of heights) can climb to the top for fantastic views over the town and coastline. GOING OUT: Batticaloa’s tranquil nature doesn’t allow for a whole lot of evening activity – although there are some great restaurants here, which can be found by having a good old fashioned wander around the town (although walking alone at night is not recommended, so solo travellers should take transport). Kattankudy shopping area, which is around 5km from central Batticaloa, has a variety of bits and bobs to buy, from souvenirs and mobile phones to random hardware, while Central Street in Batticaloa has a dazzlingly colourful variety of clothes on offer. STAY: Riviera Resort in Batticaloa (riviera-online.com), seems to have won the location lottery. Set right beside one of the lagoons, this eco-friendly hotel is the perfect place from which to watch the sun set and bed down for the night. It also houses a popular restaurant that serves local grub. ❚ TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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Snow business Embrace the bad weather by skiing or snowboarding on it – and get paid for the privilege For many, the winter months in Australia can be dreadfully dull and dreary. It never really gets cold enough to snow or do anything magical. However, further inland, in the steep ranges of the Snowy Mountains (Australians really aren’t very creative with their place names) you’ll find the ski fields. Places like Perisher (the biggest snowfield in the southern hemisphere), Thredbo, Mt Buller and Selwyn to name a few, become flooded come June/July with people chasing a little powder. Also, if you find yourself short a few quid, there are plenty of opportunities for gainful employment. For all of you continental Europeans out there who were born on an Alp with skis on your feet and snow in your hair, the need for good instructors in a country that is more than 70% semiarid desert is always at a premium. Jobs at Australian ski fields can basically be broken down into three categories: working in administrative roles out on the fields itself, working in hospitality or childcare in one of the resorts or, probably the coolest of all, as an instructor. While some roles frankly sound hateful (anyone fancy staying up making snow all night?) a lot of them are no doubt a lot of fun, and the pay, by and large, is pretty good. That’s not to say you’ll get rich, but instructors get a minimum of $20 an hour, a rate which increases depending on experience, while hospitality and childcare pay upwards of $20 an hour. Obviously if you are going to try to get into the hospitality industry, then having a valid Responsible Service of Alcohol (RSA) certificate is a must. Getting a job in the administrative/ operations side of things can prove slightly more difficult. For example if you wanted to work as a ski patroller 88

you’ll need a current ASPA certificate, the course for which can cost upwards of $500 if you’re a first timer. Working as a groomer or a snowmaker means you’ll be earning terrific wages, but the hours are long plus you’ll need experience working at ski resorts before. Generally, you’re best looking into the hospitality, housekeeping or childcare side of things. The benefits of working for a ski resort go much further than just a steady source of income. You will likely find yourself with a free season pass to all the main fields and terrain parks, free lessons, discounts on food and drink, as well as ski and board hire Plenty of extra incentive then, and we all know the perks of a job are more fun than the salary itself. It’s only money, after all.

Plus, because Australia’s snowfields are all located in fairly remote locations, your accommodation will be extremely cheap – if you even end up having to pay for it. Grab a hostel in one of the nearby towns or stay in resort accommodation on site. Of course New Zealand is also a great option for working a ski season. There are plenty of snowfields to choose from here, with the majority on South Island. Near Wanaka you’ll find Treble Cone and Cardrona, while by Queenstown are The Remarkables and Coronet Peak. Another top location is Mount Hutt. Up on the North Island the top spot is Mount Ruapehu, next to Lake Taupo. Good luck – and wrap up warm! To learn more, head to perisherjobs. com.au. For New Zealand recruitment, try addstaff.co.nz

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Are you desperately seeking someone or something? Email caroline.garnar@tntmagazine.com with your message

SAY WHAT?!

*NEW!* THINGS THE QUEEN SHOULD DO BEFORE SHE DIES...

Your dad is like ned flanders on crack.

i woke up in the middle of taking a piss over the tv. that did not end well.

it’s sad how wile e coyote is remembered for his violence and not for his brilliant paintings of tunnels.

‘apparently it’s like the biggest match in boxing history. ‘I doubt that, I’ve not heard anything about it. Who is it, Muhammad Ali? ‘It’s Mayweather v Pacquiao.’ ‘Oh yeah I have heard of Merryweather!’

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Here’s that picture of me and my heavy earth-moving equipment you wanted.

he looked like he’d been hit in the face with a hammer. not just once, repeatedly.

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Celebrated her official birthday on June 8 by getting a birthday pie in the face... happy birthday ma’am!

Spice it up: My neighbours keep me awake most nights by having sex. I would be jealous, but it’s the most boring-sounding sex EVER. The bed squeaks at the exact same pace for about an hour, with pauses around every 10 minutes. How they do not get bored I have no idea. I find it so hard not to say anything to them when I see them. Maybe I should send them a variety box of chocolates and hope that they get the hint? Or a copy of the kama sutra? Too much? Flour power: To the hot girl who works behind the bakery counter at the Tesco on Edinburgh Road in Perth, I’d like to put a bun in your oven. Am I your piece of cake? Balloon babe: You were holding a birthday balloon, looking adorably embarrassed when I had to help you get it in the taxi as it kept trying to float away. Let me take you out for a belated birthday drink? Balloon boy. Sound advice: Why do guys do the disappearing act? We’re big girls, we can be told, ‘thanks but

no thanks’. That way we can get on with our lives rather than waiting for our phone to beep as you finally have the decency to reply to our message. To all men out there, get some balls, and be honest with the girl if you’re not feeling it. Don’t just fuck off and pretend you’ve lost the power to text. You’ve got mail: You “accidentally” sent a text to me when it was meant for your friend saying how much you like me. I just wanted to say, that’s the oldest trick in the book, and the feeling’s not mutual. Beardy man: You had the most impressive beard I’ve seen in a long time. Ginger tinge, long and bushy. You were tall and wearing a black and white check shirt. I want to get beard rash with you. Hand-some: I waved hello to my friend behind you and you waved back. You were so embarrassed you scarpered, but I wish you hadn’t. You were gorgeous and your hands were massive! I hope you wave at me again some time... Right bolts, wrong nuts: My

mum sent me this story from the local paper and I had to share it with my favourite mag’s readers: A Brisbane couple drove their car to the shopping centre, only to have their car break down in the car park. The man told his wife to carry on with the shopping while he fixed the car. The wife returned later to see a small group of people near the car. On closer inspection, she saw a pair of hairy legs protruding from under the chassis. Unfortunately, although the man was in shorts, his lack of underpants turned his private parts into glaringly public ones. Unable to stand the embarrassment, she dutifully stepped forward and quickly put her hand up his shorts, and tucked everything back into place. On regaining her feet, she looked across the bonnet to see her husband staring back at her. The RACQ mechanic, however, had to have three stitches in his forehead. Naked ambition: To the girl who lives opposite me and strips naked as soon as she gets home, please close your curtains first, you put me off my dinner.

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Great Barrier Reef Adventures

Truly one of the great wonders of the natural world and a “must-see” for any visitor to the region. Our pontoons at the outer reef include an underwater viewing chamber, snorkelling, reef experts, diving and much more. Includes an all you can eat buffet lunch departs Airlie Beach from $169pp*

Whitehaven Beach Camira Sailing Adventure

Swim at one of the best beaches in the world, sailing on one of the world’s fastest commercial catamarans. BBQ lunch and all refreshments included. An all inclusive day departs Airlie Beach from $150pp*

Reef & Beach Combos

WHITSUNDAY ISLANDS

REEF & BEACH

A choice of combos with backpacker accommodation, transfers, must–do activities, sailing to Whitehaven Beach and Island experiences, Great Barrier Reef Adventures and Reefsleep under the stars! Combos start from $399pp* (3 days / 3 nights stay Airlie Beach) * Prices in Australian Dollars. Backpacker price with valid bona fide Backpacker Card. Terms & Conditions apply. see our website for full details.

For info and bookings see your Travel Centre or contact us AW5569

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