s n o i t a n i t s De EUROPE BALKAN BEAUTY Croatia calling PLUS: HIP HOSTELS KRAKOW LATVIA ST PETERSBURG VIENNA ALTERNATIVE PARIS VILNIUS
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contents
WELCOME LETTER
4 BOSNIA & CROATIA
10 LATVIA
Laze on dreamy beaches and explore hip cities in these Balkan beauties
Visit Riga and Jurmala for nightlife, culture and mud-baths
14 KRAKOW
17 VILNIUS
20 VIENNA
Enjoy a weekend of culture, vodka and fascinating salt mines in Krakow
Lithuania’s capital boasts baroque architecture, a fine old town and rich culture
Be seduced by the historic and hip in Austria’s grand capital
23 ST PETERSBURG
26 PARIS
29 COOLEST HOSTELS
Russia’s second city is a hive of culture, shopping and nightlife
Get off the beaten track with our alternative guide to the French capital
Trump your mates with a stay at one of these hip pads
Welcome to TNT’s Destinations Europe, our latest in-depth, fun-filled travel supplement. With more trip ideas than you can shake a backpack at, our comprehensive guide to Europe will provide you with oodles of inspiration for your upcoming holiday adventures. If you fancy a break in Latvia, flick to page 10 where we explore the highlights of historical Riga and spa town Jurmala. Discover that there’s more to Riga than stripclubs and beer, and that Jurmala offers the perfect chilled-out antidote to the Latvian capital. If you’re searching for weekend break ideas, look no further than cultural Krakow (page 14) or historic Vienna (page 20). And if you think you’ve been there, done Paris, think again. We check out an alternative and edgy side to the French capital by going way off the beaten track. Finally, if you’re fed up of spending the night in yet another forgettable hostel, turn to page 29 for our guide to Europe’s hippest pads. From treehouses to jumbo jets, you’ll be guaranteed a night to remember. Happy travels! The Destinations team
TNT Editor Carol Driver Sub Editor Jahn Vannisselroy Travel editor Janine Kelso Contributing writers Tom Sturrock, Frankie Mullin, Alison Grinter Design Manager Astrid Breacker Design and Production Executives Justine Mackay, Laura Doyle Picture researcher Laila Pacheco Head of design and production Jon Cooke Sales Jaqui Ward, Donovan Smith, Michael Fair, Tyler Harrison Commercial director Dave Alstin Financial director Nick Crampton CEO Kevin Ellis Chairman Ken Hurst Printed by St Ives Web Ltd Distribution by Emblem Direct Ltd Published by TNT Publishing Ltd 10 Greycoat Place, London, SW1P 1SB Enquiries +44 (0)20 7960 6008 Email enquiries@tntmagazine.com Fax +44 (0)20 7960 6977
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Bridging the gap: Mostar
Diocletian’s Palace
BALKAN BEAU Gorgeous scenery: Kravice Waterfall
Well preserved: Dubrovnik’s Old Town
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Cultural city: Sarajevo
With their beautiful beaches and lashings of culture, Bosnia-Herzegovina and Croatia offer the ultimate summer holiday adventure WORDS JANINE KELSO osnia-Herzegovina might have been ravaged by civil war in the 1990s, but it is chock-full of hidden gems and it has an undiscovered feel welcomed by intrepid travellers. Couple a trip there with a visit to Croatia’s gorgeous islands and coastline, and you’ll find dreamy beaches, hip cities and breathtaking panoramas galore. Here we round up some of Bosnia-Herzegovina and Croatia’s highlights.
B
KRAVICE WATERFALL
UTIES
The Kravice Waterfall is an Eden-like wonder of multiple chutes gushing into a turquoise lagoon, where visitors can enjoy a refreshing swim in the searing heat of summer. The falls are encrusted with grass and moss, and are surrounded by luscious green hemp, figs and poplar trees, more akin to a scene you’d expect in Hawaii (or a red-hot shampoo advert) rather than war-scarred Bosnia-Herzegovina.
MOSTAR
Mostar is Bosnia-Herzegovina’s star attraction, a photographer’s dream of charming cobbled streets and stone houses, painstakingly rebuilt to resemble its pre-war charm during a multi-million-pound nip ’n’ tuck. The town’s iconic bridge graces the front covers of most BosniaHerzegovina guidebooks, its misty mountains providing the dramatic backdrop. The original 500-year-old Old Bridge was destroyed in 1993 during the war, symbolising the collapse of the former Yugoslavia, as it was considered a mark of unification between east and west. Rebuilt and re-opened in 2004 using 1400 of the original stone bricks, in order to hang on to its Unesco world heritage status, the bridge is famous for its buff Speedo-clad, oiled-up divers who jump 25 metres from it into the turquoise waters of the Neretva, a convention that began in the Sixties. The tradition is celebrated with an international diving competition on the last Saturday of every July. The city’s Turkish Quarter is all windy cobbled streets lined with CROATIA souvenir shops selling evil eyes and copper coffee pots. One of the coolest nightspots in BOSNIA the region is cavernous cave club Ali HERZEGOVINA Baba where drinkers sit on cushions, and treasure chests dispense chocolate coins.
SARAJEVO
Split Mostar
Dubrovnik
SARAJEVO Sarajevo is Bosnia-Herzegovina’s cultural epicentre, the country’s edgy and hip capital. The city is home to
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Upmarket: Hvar
some 1300 cafes, full of locals smoking and sipping strong Bosnian coffee from tiny cups. One such hidden gem is Zlatna Ribica (the Goldfish), an intimate café loaded with antique mirrors, lamps and the eponymous gold fish, which swims around an orange-lit vase-shaped bowl. Menus are contained within real books attached to the ceiling via telephone cords, and include everything from hard liquor to gloopy hot chocolate. Other cool haunts include Kino Bosna, a cinema-turned-hip-bar-
“ Washing flutters above crumbling windowsills in Split ” and-live-music-venue, where punters sit in the former movie seats, drinking beer in a smogfilled room while dogs roam about; and Tito’s Café, near the National Museum, full of memorabilia to Yugoslavia’s popular former leader. It’s easy to find, thanks to the World War I tanks sitting proudly outside.
SPLIT Croatia’s historic city of Split is home to Unesco-classified treasure, the Diocletian’s Palace, built by the Roman emperor 2000 years ago as his retirement home. When the Romans abandoned the site, the palace stood derelict for centuries until refugees flocked to the city in AD614 and started living in it. To this day, it remains home to bars, shops and flats, where hanging washing flutters above crumbling windowsills.
DUBROVNIK Dubrovnik’s beautiful Old Town, well-preserved city walls and postcard-perfect harbour make
Diocletian’s Palace, Split
NEED TO KNOW WHEN TO GO April to September for the best weather. Summers are sweltering , although Bosnia is more prone to rain. To escape the crowds in Split and Dubrovnik, visit in April or September. GETTING THERE Fly to Split with easyJet (easyjet.com). or Croatian Airlines (croatiaairlines.com) in two hours. Flights cost from £128 return. GETTING AROUND
All cities mentioned can be explored on foot. Take a sailing trip to explore the islands. SEE visit-croatia.co. uk and bhtourism.ba
it one of Croatia’s top tourist destinations. This means that it’s flooded with tourists in the summer months. Visit in the shoulder season (April or September) if you want to escape the tourist hordes. Don’t leave without feasting on an ice cream or taking a stroll around the city’s walls, where you’ll be treated to fabulous city and sea views. Expect to pay extortionate prices for food and drink.
DALMATIAN ISLANDS Croatia’s Adriatic coastline is scattered with 1185 islands that are surrounded by translucent aquamarine waters. The Dalmatian islands are famous for their brightly coloured flowers, dramatic cliff-lined coasts, vineyards and olive groves between quaint fishing villages. It’s no wonder Croatia is hailed as the ‘new Greece’. The best way to explore Croatia’s dreamy sun-splashed islands is on a sailing trip, as you can swim in secluded bays and stop off in historic towns. Top draws include upmarket party island Hvar and the more laidback Korcula.
KAMENA LODGE Fun, Friendly, Affordable Accommodation Split, Croatia
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BH Tourism,; Getty;TNT
www.kamenalodge.com Island paradise: Korcula
STILL HAVEN'T BEEN TO
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A TALE OF TWO NEED TO KNOW
Go from nightlife and culture to mud-baths and mineral springs when you visit Riga and Jurmala in Latvia
WHEN TO GO Summers are sweltering and winters are mild with few daylight hours. GETTING THERE Fly direct with Air Baltic or Ryanair. GETTING AROUND Explore on foot.
RIGA
ACCOMMODATION
SIGHT TO SEE
The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel, Kaleju Iela, in Old Riga, was ranked ninth in hostelworld.com’s 2010 10 best budget hostels in the world (from £10). A good budget hotel is Albert Hotel (alberthotel.lv), which has a fantastic rooftop bar, Star Lounge, which offers great city views (from £57). SEE liveriga.com
Riga’s Old Town is a medley of Baroque, Classical, Renaissance and Art Deco architecture. Don’t miss the 14th century House of Blackheads. Destroyed during World War II, it was rebuilt in 1999 by local people. For a taste of the city’s Art Nouveau buildings, check out Elizabetes and Alberta streets.
WORDS FRANKIE MULLIN
There’s more to Riga than strip clubs and beer; visit for the hip bars and a recession-fuelled art scene.
Pilsetas Canal. Potter over quaint bridges or meander along green walkways.
FOOD FACTS
SOMETHING DIFFERENT Cheap rent in the once-industrial Andrejsala district has turned the area into a mecca for creative types. As well as housing the Latvian Museum of Naive Art, the area is a popular haunt for many of the city’s artists and musicians with festivals and concerts taking place regularly here. For Riga’s hippest shops swing by Miera and A.Briana streets.
Don’t leave Latvia without trying some seafood. The country is famous for its herring, flounder and trout. If you’re after fine dining, Riga has lots of posh restaurants, including Kalku Varti (kalkuvarti.lv) and Maja (restoransmaja.lv).
NIGHTLIFE Most of Riga’s bars and clubs are in the Old Town but, be warned, you won’t be the only tourist. Try hipster bar I Love You (Aldaru iela 9) to escape the masses. For some top clubbing, hit Nautilus (Kungu 8) then make sure you try Riga’s traditional herbal liqueur, Black Balsam at the Black Magic Bar on Kalku Street.
Jurmala
RIGA
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LATVIA
CHILL-OUT TIME Bastejkalns Park splits the Old Town from the Central District and is intersected by the
Historic city: Riga
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O CITIES Dreamy: Jurmala beach
JURMALA
CHILL-OUT TIME
Often referred to as the playground of Riga, spa town Jurmala is worth a visit in its own right. Only 20km from Riga’s city centre, consider combining both destinations in one break.
Jurmala is famous for its mineral springs and mud baths and has been a spa resort since the 1930s. Make sure you book yourself in for some treatments, or at least wallow in some of the area’s reputedly healing mud.
SIGHT TO SEE You’re here for the beautiful beach. Spread your towel on the 33km of golden sand and gaze at the sparkling ocean or the forest and woodland behind you. The water is clear, shallow and perfect for swimming. For more fresh air, take a walk along the flatlands beside the Lielupe river.
Laze on the beach
Expect food from around the globe in Jurmala; a surfeit of restaurants has sprung up in recent years and you can eat Indian food or sushi as readily as Latvian. Dining in beachfront eateries is one of the city’s pleasures and in the summer many stay open until the last client has finished eating.
Getty, Tourism Jurmala, Live Riga
SOMETHING DIFFERENT Many tourists never venture as far as the Kemeri National Park, but you should. Wander through ancient raised bogs, swamps, forests and lakes that were created 8000 years ago as the ocean retreated. Keep your eyes peeled for rare birds like the black stork as well as moose, deer, elk, foxes, wolves, and wild cattle and horses. The park also shows traces of World War One battles in the old trenches in the Zala purva and Kemeri moorland dunes.
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FOOD FACTS
Treat yourself in a spa
Jurmala: Riga’s playground
NIGHTLIFE Although Jurmala is not as wild as its big sister, Riga, there’s still a party to be had. There are several bars and nightclubs right on the beach and there are regular live music nights in town. A number of trendy cocktail bars cater for the more discerning. For something more subdued, visit one of the al fresco cafes that stay open late.
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EUROPE AT IT’S BEST Tallinn
2 IA ESTON Riga
3 St Petersburg 1 Novgorod RUSSIA
1 Moscow 3 LATVIA 2 Velikiye ANIA Luki LITHU 1 Vilnius ANY GERM D POLAN Berlin
1
NO. OF NIGHTS STAY
Warsaw 2
Russian Revelations 17 Days
EUROCLUB Take a peek behind the iron curtain with 15 nights hotel upgrade and one night in a hostel. Explore the glories of Mother Russia and the former Eastern Block as we hit the ground running in the exciting medieval city of Tallinn, Estonia. Then we have eight days in the world’s largest country – Russia. History comes alive as our local guide shows grand, historic cities of St Petersburg and Moscow home to Tsars, the iconic Red Square and the stunning St. Basils Cathedral. Raise your glass to Russian Revelations and toast the east!
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Let’s be honest, the weather in the UK has been pretty disappointing this summer, but your holidays don’t need to be over yet! Whether you’re after some last minute sunshine or a dose of culture and sightseeing, Topdeck have all the trips to get the most out of your European days and nights.
Budapest
2
ARY HUNG
IA CROAT
Plitvice Lakes
Paris 2
Zadar
2
Rome
1
NO. OF NIGHTS STAY DAY STOP
Dubrovnik
Tirana 1
overnight ferry
IA ALBAN
1
NO. OF NIGHTS STAY DAY STOP
D POLAN
3
ND ENGLA
London
CZECH IC KIA ANY GERM REPUBL SLOVA Vienna 2 Bratislava RLAND A RI 2 Budapest ST SWITZE AU Swiss Alps 2 ARY HUNG
French Riviera
1
Brugge
2 Krakow
FRANCE
CO MONA 2
E GREEC Sailing
Auschwitz
Prague 2
Verona Pisa
NDS HERLA 1 NET ANY GERM M Rhine Valley BELGIU 1
Amsterdam
Brugge
M Dresden BELGIU
2
ITALY
LANDS NETHER 2 2 Berlin
Amsterdam
ND London ENGLA
Paris 2 Munich 1
E FRANC
LAND ITZER Lucerne 1 SW
2 Venice Florence
NO. OF NIGHTS STAY DAY STOP
ITALY
Venice 2
ITALY
1 Florence
2 Rome
Adriatic Express
Spirit of Europe
Europe Express
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Make summer last longer spending seven nights in Europe’s best campsites and three on a flotilla in Greece.
Get into the European spirit in our multi-share accommodation including 6 hotel upgrades.
Take in the best of the continent in record time while staying in twin share hotel accommodation.
Ancient cities and crystal blue seas. Travelling from coast to coast this gem of a trip takes in all the Adriatic has to offer! Meet your team in the home of the gladiators, Rome. Then wind the pace down for flotilla sailing and sunbaking in Greece before heading north off the beaten track into Albania. The stunning Croatian coast follows then it’s onto the charming Hungarian capital Budapest. Take the Adriatic Express and summer will follow!
Fancy a night with the stars in Monaco? How about a gondola ride through Venice? Or maybe a stroll through Krakow’s Jewish Quarter? Luckily you don’t have to decide because this 24 day trip lets you see it all! From east to west and back again, the Spirit of Europe gives you the best of both worlds from the traditional European highlights in Paris and Rome to the newer sights of the former communist east.
Six countries in 10 days - we have a heck of a lot to see on this jam-packed loop of Europe so get moving! Sample a gourmet Parisian picnic by the Eiffel Tower in true French style and make sure your camera is ready for the stunning Swiss scenery in Lucerne. Get stuffed on the fabulous Italian cuisine in Florence and Venice before washing it down with a stein in Munich. The Europe Express has it all.
13 Days
24 Days
10 Days
Europe in Winter
NEW!
Check out Topdeck’s new Europe in Winter brochure. Snow-covered scenery, festive markets and vibrant cities all without the summer crowds (or prices!). Start planning your winter break now and make the most of crackling fires, guilt free indulgences and chilly sights. And don’t forget to check out our Christmas and New Year’s trips! For details head to www.topdeck.travel Brugge Christmas Markets
The Cloth Hall: the place to shop for jewels
Krakow: more than just the “new Prague”
SUMMER
IN THE CITY Soak up the sunshine in a pavement cafe in the bohemian city of Krakow WORDS JANINE KELSO
Bohemian side: Kazimierz
ince being touted the ‘new Prague’ several years ago, Krakow has cemented itself a reputation as a hip weekend break destination. Boasting super-hot summers, a bohemian pavement-café culture and energetic nightlife, Poland’s cultural capital is the perfect spot to visit right now.
S
HIP TO BE SQUARE
BOHEMIAN VIBE Krakow’s bohemian vibe is alive and kicking in the cobbled streets of its
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TNT, Simon Willmore
Bustling day and night, the Rynek is the largest medieval square in Europe and the heart of the city. Listen out for the Kraków bugle call or hejnal (pronounced ‘hey-now’), played on the hour from the highest tower of St Mary’s Basilica. Then wander round the Sukiennice (Cloth Hall), which slices the square in half. Formerly Kraków’s chief trading centre, these days it’s a glittering tunnel of amber jewels and souvenir stalls. Refuel at Chimera, a traditional restaurant that serves up topnotch Polish cuisine at reasonable prices. See chimera.com.pl
Win a free weekend for 2 in Venice! Flights from London Hotel and Gondola Tour All you have to do to go in the draw is: Sign up for a free membership account with Hostelsclub.com by registering at
www.hostelsclub.com/free/trip2 You will also be able to get one of our membership cards with discounts at hundreds of bars, restaurants and tourist attractions around Europe!
NEED TO KNOW WHEN TO GO Anytime. Krakow is the perfect spot to get cosy in winter, while summer can be sizzling hot. GETTING THERE Ryanair (ryanair.com) and easyJet (easyjet. com) both fly to Krakow from London from £73 return. GETTING AROUND Explore Krakow on foot. Organised tours to Auschwitz cost about £25. For Wieliczka, take the 304 bus f rom Dworzec Glowny Zachod.
Going underground: Wieliczka Salt Mine
Jewish quarter, Kazimierz. The suburb lay neglected after World War II but, since the Nineties, a string of artsy bars and cafes has opened. By day, sip coffee in pavement cafes with boho students who can be found tapping away on laptops and putting the world to rights. The area is also dotted with synagogues, cemeteries and museums, which act as a reminder of the oppressive Nazi reign. At night, make like a local and knock back neat vodka shots. Ask for Wyborowa, bittersweet Zoladkowa Gorzka or Zubrowka. Nazdrovia! (Cheers!)
WARSAW
“The mines are filled with a web of salt sculptures, chapels and chandeliers ” Sobering experience: Auschwitz
DAY TRIPPING
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Krakow
WINTER FUN From October to February, Krakow morphs into a winter wonderland with icy temperatures and snow. Escape the chill by retreating into the city’s subterranean network of wine bars, galleries, restaurants and music clubs that come to life in converted cellars.
What’s your tipple? Vodka hopefully
Getty,TNT
Within easy reach of Krakow is the former concentration camp at Auschwitz where the Nazis murdered up to 1.5 million people during WWII. The site was protected shortly after the end of the war to ensure the world would never forget the atrocities. Also worth a visit is Wieliczka Salt Mine (included on Unesco’s World Heritage List) on the southeastern outskirts of the city, which date back to the Middle Ages. One of the world’s biggest underground mining museums, the mines are filled with a web of sculptures, chandeliers and chapels carved out of salt.
POLAND
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24 HOURS IN VILNIUS Lithuania’s capital boasts baroque architecture a fine old town and rich cultural heritage. WORDS ALISON GRINTER
Beauty: savour the architecture
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Peaceful: stroll around the Old Town
AM:
Have breakfast in the arty suburb of Uzipis at Uzupio Kavine (uzupiokavine.lt). The food is tasty and cheap, while the beautiful riverside setting makes this the perfect place to start the day.
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AM:
Explore Uzupis’ quirky galleries and craft shops. The eccentric district, populated by artists and alternative types, declared itself an “independent republic” in 1998. It even has a 41-point “constitution” which you can read on a plaque in Paupio Gatve.
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cuisine at Aukstaiciai (Antokolskio gatve) in the Jewish quarter. Cepelinai (zeppelins), a potato-based dumpling dish is typical of Lithuanian cuisine.
Thinkstock, Getty
AM:
Stroll around the Old Town and savour the beautiful baroque architecture of Vilnius University and St John’s church. Be sure to make the trek to the far side of town to visit the Gates of Dawn, the only remaining gate from the town’s original wall. In here you’ll find the Chapel of the Blessed Virgin Mary, home to an icon of the Madonna herself, which is believed to be responsible for performing miracles.
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PM: For lunch, try some traditional Lithuanian
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PM:
Head for the sprawling cathedral square and check out its crowning jewel, Vilnius Cathedral – home to the lovely St Casimir’s chapel. Vilnius is also home to the Royal Palace, which is currently being rebuilt. Also check out St Peter & Paul Church, one of Vilnius’ finest baroque churches.
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PM:
Head up Gediminas Hill and climb the tower of 13th century Gediminas Castle for
Sky-high: the TV Tower
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Hearty treat: potato dumplings
Party time: shake your booty
White house: Palace of the Grand Dukes
spectacular views of the Old Town. There’s also a museum up there.
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PM:
While away a few hours at the Museum of Applied Art (Arsenalo gatve 3a), currently housing artefacts from the Royal Palace. Also check out the nearby Museum of Genocide Victims (genocid.lt/muziejus/en). Once KGB headquarters, the building was turned into a museum in October 1992 and now serves as a moving memorial to all those who were persecuted and suppressed at the hands of Soviet institutions between 1940 and 1991. It has exhibitions dedicated to both armed and unarmed resistance to the Soviet Occupiers.
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PM:
Make time to head up to the top of the Television Tower (lrtc.lt) to check out the great views. Built in 1980, it is the tallest structure in the city, rising 326.5 metres. It was fired at by Soviet tanks during Vilnius’s fight for independence in 1991.
PM:
Grab a quick bite at Pomodoro (Vilniaus gatve 15) for Lithuania’s tasty, original take on Italian food.
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Take in a show at the Lithuanian Opera and Ballet Theatre (opera.lt/English). Vilnius also boasts two symphony orchestras: the Lithuanian National Philharmonic Orchestra and The Lithuanian State Symphony Orchestra.
PM:
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Have drinks at Avilys (avilys.lt), a bar/ microbrewery which produces three varieties of its own unfiltered beer. Vilnius buzzes with lively bars; check out student haunt Cozy (Dominikonu gatve 10) or the uber-fun Manu Kavine (Boksto gatve 7).
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AM:
Head out clubbing to Brodvejus (brodvejus.lt) for some cheesy tunes or Pabo Latino (pabolatino.lt) for a world music vibe. There’s even a Pacha (pacha.com) for those hankering after the Balearic vibe.
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NEED TO KNOW WHEN TO GO Vilnius enjoys warm summers with temperatures hitting 30C. Winters are cold. GETTING THERE Fly from £60 return with Ryanair. GETTING AROUND Buy the Vilnius City Card for free use of public transport and entry to museums. A 24-hour card is £13, a 72-hour pass is £21. VISAS South Africans need a Schengen visa. LANGUAGE Lithuanian, but English is widely spoken. SEE lithuaniatourism.
Back to Gediminas Hill to watch the sun rise over the city.
VILNIUS
Bed down at budget, quirky Filaretai Hostel (filaretaihostel.lt), or splash the cash at HotelGrotthuss (grotthusshotel).
LITHUANIA
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Active 5-day breaks in LITHUANIA Cycling Kayaking Sand-yachting Walking Sightseeing Spa
Small groups Great value Weekly departures or tailor-made www.aoootravel.com
KAUNAS, LITHUANIA
APPLE ECONOMY HOTEL & TOUR OPERATOR single, double, triple, quadruple and luxury rooms from £25.
The hotel was designed according to special apple project. The purpose was to create cosy and cheerful atmosphere away from home. It is situated in Kaunas Old Town - the oldest part of Kaunas. Many museums, galleries, restaurants, bars, cafes, shops are very close
Sightseeing tours | Tasting tourist routes | Theatricalised tours | Educational tours Medical tourism | Genealogical tourism | Nostalgia tourism | Hen and stag parties Romantic weekends | Excursions with limousine | Excursions in three Baltic countries Historical cars | Guides in different languages | Lithuanian language courses
More than 100 Travel routes in Lithuania from £25
WWW.APPLEHOTEL.LT WWW.MUSUODISEJA.LT Valanciaus str. 19, Kaunas LT-44275, Lithuania - Tel/Fax +370 37 321404, Mobile +370 65011180 E-mails: apple@applehotel.lt odyssey@turinfo.lt
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Old World Grandeur: Vienna
VIENNESE TEASE Let Austria’s historic and hip capital seduce you WORDS FRANKIE MULLIN ienna, with its baroque architecture and association with world-class ballet and classical music, is the epitome of Old World grandeur. However, the city also attracts a younger, hip crowd and you’ll find DJ bars and electro music as easily as you will concert halls and Mozart.
V
CULTURE VULTURE
WHEN TO GO Anytime, but book ahead for July, August or Christmas. GETTING THERE Fly with easyJet from £130 return VISAS South Africans need a Schengen Visa. GETTING AROUND The Vienna metro is fast and frequent. Consider buying a 24-hour travelcard for cheap travel. Trams are quick for trips across the centre of town. GOING OUT About £4 for a beer.
VIENNA
SPEND SOME CASH The centre of Vienna is a maze of narrow, elegant streets full of interesting shops.
AUSTRIA
Music man: Mozart
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© Austrian National Tourist Office; Popp Hackner;TNT
If you’ve never been to a classical concert, the Musikverien is the place to begin as it’s reputedly one of the best venues in the world due to its near-perfect acoustics. Get your camera out at the Spanish Riding School (Spanische Hofreitschule) where you can watch the horses practice their classical dressage exercise to music. A lazy and enjoyable way to
see the sights is by taking a boat trip along the Danube (DDSG Blue Danube Schiffahrt GmbH offer cruises, ddsg-blue-danube.at). If you’re looking for a good vantage point for a few crafty photos, head to the Prater amusement park and climb on board the Riesenrad (ferris wheel). The 65m wheel is a symbol of Vienna and you may recognise it from films like The Living Daylights, The Third Man and Before Sunrise. The Kunst Haus Wien museum is celebrating its 20th anniversary with an exhibition devoted to its founder, Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser, until November 6. See kunsthauswien.com
NEED TO KNOW
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Prater Park’s Riesenrad (ferry wheel)
Culture time: Burgtheater
“ Wiener Wiesn, the Austrian answer to Oktoberfest, will make its debut in the Prater park this autumn ” Hit the Naschmarkt market to buy fruit and vegetables or have a coffee and watch the city buzz by. On a Saturday morning, one end of the street becomes a flea market.
HIPSTER HAUNTS Vienna’s second district, or Leopoldstradt, is chocca with bars, especially in the area around Augarten, Karmelitermarkt and the Danube Canal. Converted porn-cinema Porgy & Bess is Vienna’s best jazz club and Club Roxy is your spot for some electro.
COFFEE CULTURE
FESTIVAL TIME Wiener Wiesn, the Austrian answer to Oktoberfest, will make its debut in Prater Park this autumn. Four giant marquees in front of the Giant Ferris Wheel will fill with beer, wine and music from September 23 until October 2. See wienerwiesn.at
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AUSTRIA’S MUST-SEES SALZBURG Touristy but beautiful. The old town (alstadt) is a Unesco World Heritage Site, overlooked by the impressive Hohensalzburg Fortress, which has an unbeatable view of the city. Both the beer and the cakes are worth visits in their own right.
ALPS Less famous than the Swiss Alps, Austria’s mountains nonetheless have some of the world’s best skiing and snowboarding. When there’s no snow, it’s perfect hiking and biking terrain.
GRAZ Austria’s second largest city boasts some contemporary architectural gems including the futuristic Kunsthaus (Museum of Contemporary Art), the sharp edged Stadthalle (civic hall) and the amphitheatre styled island on the river Mur. The 40,000strong student population guarantees decent nightlife.
LINZ You’ll find trendy bars galore in the Altstadt (old town), cool coffee shops, cutting-edge art exhibitions and live music venues.
Soak up some mountain air
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© Austrian National Tourist Office/ Diejun, Kai Wede
Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) is a ritual in Vienna, and the city is full of cafes – from the historical Cafe Central to the bohemian Cafe Hawelka. Expect the cafes to be smoky, as diners are still allowed to light up in Austria.
Beer o’clock: Wiener Wiesn festival
Top sight: Church on Spilled Blood
FROM RUSSIA WITH LOVE Russia’s second city St Petersburg is a hive of culture, nightlife, historic monuments and cathedrals WORDS TOM STURROCK
WINTER PALACE The palace houses the Hermitage Museum, a gallery overflowing with art and sculpture to rival anything in the West and has been maintained in its glittering imperial style. The tsars entertained in the banquet halls of the palace, where, in contrast to the otherwise plush surrounds, the corners would be
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stocked with sawdust and feathers. Guests would so gorge themselves on gourmet treats that they would need to spew in the corner before going back for seconds.
NEVSKY PROSPEKT Just as the tsars enjoyed their excesses more than 100 years ago, one need only stroll through the
teeming shopping hub of Nevsky Prospekt to see how those appetites for finery have been democratised. It may be less than 20 years since the Iron Curtain was drawn back but designer brands have wasted no time. Shoppers scuttle past loaded with bags, mobile phones in hand, hailing cabs and wheeling into the flash restaurants that line the vast
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Culture: Hermitage Museum
CHECK OUT THE CAPITAL If you’re in Russia, it’s worth paying a visit to Moscow and seeing what it has to offer.
RED SQUARE A statue of Marshal Zhukov, the country’s most decorated general, stands, immortalised, at the main gateway to Red Square. At the other end, the domes of St Basil’s cathedral, bulbous and brightly coloured; alongside, the stark red terracotta of Vladimir Lenin’s mausoleum; further south, the fortified royal citadel of the Kremlin – now the seat of the Russian government.
NEED TO KNOW THE GUM
All aboard: Venice of the North
up while the city was under siege.
WATERWAYS thoroughfare. Frankly, it’s more Mayfair or Manhattan than Moscow.
CHURCH ON SPILLED BLOOD Built on the site where Tsar Alexander II was assassinated, the Church on Spilled Blood is among St Petersburg’s most prominent tourist sites, it’s brightly coloured peaks among the most distinctive parts of the city’s skyline. After the Russian revolution in 1917, the church was ransacked and the spectacular mosaics inside were badly damaged. Later, during the Second World War, it was used to store the corpses piling Immortal: Mikhail Kutuzov guards Kazan Cathedral
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St Petersburg is a city of unique geography, spanning an archipelago of smaller islands now connected by road and rail. The effect on the cityscape is dramatic, with broad waterways weaving in between the city streets. If it is a quintessential London experience to take a stroll along the Thames, then a visit to St Petersburg is equally certain to involve a wander along its atmospheric canals. Be careful, though, because if you’re staying in one part of town but are out and about late at night, you may be stuck on the wrong side of the bridges after they are raised.
KAZAN CATHEDRAL In the bustling heart of Nevsky Prospekt, the Kazan Cathedral is one of the city’s focal points, a dusky, horseshoe-
The GUM – pronounced goom, a generic name for the main department store in Russian cities – stands out, even from several blocks away, its fusion of medieval and contemporary architecture making it one of Moscow’s most identifiable buildings. Here, bejewelled with the trappings of consumption – the fancy shoes, the top-shelf vodka, the Beluga caviar – stands Moscow’s epic monument to a new way of life.
shaped cathedral in stark contrast to the sheen and shimmer surrounding it. Construction began in 1801 and the cathedral immediately became a source of controversy, with the Russian Orthodox Church suspicious of its Catholic iconography. After Napoleon invaded in 1812, and was turned back by Russian forces, the cathedral became a monument to the glorious military victory.
Getty, TNT
WHEN TO GO Anytime except for winter. It’s too cold. GETTING THERE Fly with Lufthansa, 250 return. VISAS Everyone needs a visa and it can be tricky so plan ahead. GETTING AROUND The Metro and the trams are useful. If you’re with a group and staying out of town, think about a marshrutka, or private minibus. GOING OUT About £2 for a beer.
Explore Russia’s cultural capital & Share
your bright experience with friends you meet!
Ultramodern. Backpacker’s. In the heart of Saint-Petersburg.
Looking forward to see you soon! Hostel Life LLC, Vosstanya ul. d. 6, 191025 St.Petersburg, Russia Tel.: +7-812-3181808, Fax: +7-812-318180
www.hostel-life.ru TNT Language School sponsored by
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Different view: cycle Paris by night
BE H I N D TH E
S C E N ES Get off the tourist trail. We show you the quirkier side of Paris WORDS JAHN VANNISSELROY
nce you’ve avoided the plague of African souvenir-hawkers under the Eiffel Tower, posed for pictures at the Champs-Elyseés and taken on the masses at the Louvre, you’ve ‘been there and done that’ in Paris, right? How wrong you are. Peel back the tourist trap layer and discover just how bright the City Of Light can get.
O
THE CATACOMBS This 1.5km underground network of tunnels houses the skeletal remains of almost six million Parisians from the 18th and 19th centuries. You’re 19m underground and surrounded by the dead. It may sound creepy but among the dimly lit remains of the deceased the imagined danger is thrilling. Stay a while and pose for photos while holding skulls – it brings a whole new meaning to using your head. » 1 Ave du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy. Metro: Denfert Rochereau (catacombes-de-paris.fr). £7
FRAGONARD VET MUSEUM A museum of anatomical oddities with some real freaky shit: think the preserved body of a baby ‘merman’ born with a ‘fin’ instead of feet; three wax-injected human foetuses dancing a jig; and a wonderful collection of ‘monsters’ including twoheaded and eight-legged animals. Honore Fragonard was the Paris vetschool’s first professor of anatomy and prepared thousands of anatomical pieces. When he was expelled in 1771 as a ‘madman’, he continued to prepare dissections in his home, earning money by selling his works to the aristocracy. These works have since been collected and housed here. You’ll see things here you won’t anywhere else – arrive with an open mind and leave with an open mouth. » 7 Avenue du Général de Gaulle, 94700, Wed/Thurs 2pm- 6pm; Sat Sun 1pm6pm Metro: Maisons-Alfort (musee.vetalfort.fr). £6.50 Unusual: Fragonard Vet Museum
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Magical Tours and Ex
cursions
Eurostar City Break Bargins
Phoenix Tours - your one stop shop for day trips and short breaks for all, and popular holidays for 18 to 40’s ONLY!!!!. We depart from Victoria Station (London) but Phoenix will happily pick you up at several conveniently located pick up points. All coaches are fully air-conditioned with toilets. See what’s on offer, and don’t forget to sign up for our free newsletter where you can WIN a free Holiday / Day Trip!!!!
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o.uk www.phoenixtours.c Follow us on Twitter: www.twitter.com/PhoenixToursUK Join us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/phoenixtoursltd Tel: 0207 231 1118 sales@phoenixtours.co.uk
Paris: Eurostar + 2 nights 2I from £119 Brussels: Eurostar + 2 nts 3I from £129 Bruges: Eurostar + 2 nts 3I from £149 Amsterdam: Eurostar + 2 nts 2I from £189
Hotel accommodation also available throughout Europe Telephone 01332 559514 or visit us online www.rdmhltd.com
4 NON PROFIT HOSTELS TO DISCOVER PARIS A DIFFERENT WAY THE BIGGEST: “Le d’Artagnan” close to the Père Lachaise Cemetery, with a great pub to meet new friends CENTRAL: “Jules Ferry” next to Republique, on the banks of the SaintMartin Canals
QUIET: “Cité des Sciences” with a nice kitchen and garden
ON BUDGET: “Clichy” basic hostel with a kitchen to prepare your own meals
From 23 € - night + breakfast Discover and book these hostels and 136 other hostels of Hostelling International in France : www.fuaj.org
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Exciting: The Erotic Museum
THE EROTIC MUSEUM This surely is the sex world’s answer to the Louvre. There are five floors tastefully dedicated to the favourite pastime of most human beings. You’ll find international fertility idols, Chinese ceramic porn, a Tibetan yak oil lamp – “The flame is burning in the vagina of the tigress” – and an early 20th-century blackand-white porno movie involving nuns and a naughty little dog. There’s also a section for erotic art and sculpture which is refreshed throughout the year and an extensive collection of brothel photos, and documents from the late 19th century. If you’re feeling horny afterwards, you are in the city’s red light district so head out for a sex show or a brothel visit. It’s all at your fingertips. » 72 Boulevard de Clichy, 75018. Open Mon-Sat 9am-6pm. Metro: Blanche (musee-erotisme.com). £10.50
LES FRIGOS ARTIST HUB
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NEED TO KNOW
CYCLE PARIS BY NIGHT Paris by night is a different city to Paris by day and by spending the after-dark hours in your hotel room there’s much you’ll miss out on. Fat Tire Bike Tours runs a 13km cycle tour which takes you on the roads of Paris, among the traffic and through the crowds, to explore the glowing city. See the Louvre and Notre Dame all lit up, ogle the apartment of Johnny Depp while you taste Paris’s most-loved ice cream at the Berthillon in Meudon and reminisce at the flame of Princess Diana. One of the most popular aspects of the tour is the finale – a boat cruise up the River Seine, on which you are plied with as much wine as you can drink. Afterward, grab another bottle and mingle with the locals who love a tipple along the banks of the river. » Meet at the south leg of the Eiffel Tower. 7pm daily (fattirebiketours.com/paris). £25
WHEN TO GO Anytime. GETTING THERE Take the Eurostar, trains leave London St Pancras daily from 6.22am. Prices £69+. LANGUAGE French. GOING OUT A beer costs from £4. ACCOMMODATION
Hotels from £58. SEE parisinfo.com
PARIS
FRANCE
INSIDER VIEW Sonia Duran from Hostelling International (HI) in France suggests some hidden gems to visit in Paris, discounted for HI members. See fuaj.org • Discover the history of tennis at the Roland Garros Tenniseum and see the famous clay surface of the Philippe Chatrier court (rolandgarros.com). • Enjoy a coffee and pastry at the Cafe of the Jacquemart-Andre Museum, then view paintings by 18th century French artists. (musee-jacquemart-andre.com) • Go behind the scenes of Europe’s largest cinema at Les Etoiles du Rex museum (legrandrex.com).
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Thinkstock,TNT
Wander this massive former refrigerated warehouse, drifting from room to room among the smell of paint and marijuana. Les Frigos has been a home to artists since the Sixties and was initially a squat until the occupants were almost evicted in the Nineties. They fought for their right to stay and won. Today, Les Frigos remains a hive of creativity – on any given day you will find performances, exhibitions and meetings in any of the myriad rooms on five graffiti-covered levels. Many of the artists are happy to talk about their creative processes and may even share some wine. » 91 Rue des Frigos, 75013. Metro: Bibliothèque François Mitterrand (les-frigos.com). Free
Colourful: Los Frigos
In the wilderness: Kadir’s Yoruk Top Tree House
HOSTEL HEAVEN Staying in hostels doesn’t mean you have to sacrifice style or adventure. Check-in at some of Europe’s most exciting pads WORDS JAHN VANNISSELROY AND TOM STURROCK KADIR’S YÖRÜK TOP TREE HOUSE OLYMPOS, TURKEY Indulge your childhood fantasies with a stay in this treetop hostel, gloriously located on a hill above a sandy beach. Built on stilts and made of wood, the five-bed venue fits comfortably into the landscape. If you’re scared of heights, you can opt to stay in a bungalow. The surrounding area offers endless hiking and climbing opportunities, as well as a host of ruins to explore. It is also a 1km hike to the Olympos beach, known as one of the world’s only breeding grounds for loggerhead turtles. How much? From €10 (£8.59) per night, per bed. See kadirstreehouses.com or hihostels.com
LANGHOLMEN STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN Situated in a former jail in central Stockholm on its own island, this hostel offers guests the chance to crash in its recently spruced-up two-to-four-bed cells where inmates used to sleep – the beds have, thankfully, been replaced. Built in the 1840s, Crown Prison served as a lock-up until 1975, when the last convict left the island. Inside the hostel is a museum, recording the clink’s 250 years of history. How much? 240 SEK (£23.23) per night, per bed. See langholmen.com
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Crash out: Jumbo Stay Hostel
JUMBO STAY HOSTEL STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN Is it a bird? Is it a plane? Er, yes, but it’s also a hostel. Quite possibly one of the world’s coolest crashpads, this worn-out – and grounded – jumbo jet has been recycled into a stylish hostel. Stay in quad dorms or upgrade to the luxury suite, situated in the converted cockpit with a view of Arlanda airport. It’s the perfect place to stay if you have an early flight the next day. How much? From 400 SEK (£38.72) per night, per bed. See jumbostay.com
BOATEL FORTUNA BUDAPEST, HUNGARY Fall asleep on the waves of the Danube by staying in this converted boat. Set in front of the stunning Margit Island
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Touch of style: Generator Hostel Dublin
Sail away: Fortuna Boat Hostel
at the Pest side next to Margit Bridge, the city’s major attractions are within spitting distance. The boat’s restaurant serves up Hungarian specialities. During the summer months, expect a BBQ and cocktails on the terrace. It’s impossible not to get into the maritime spirit, especially as every room is named after a famous pirate. Aye aye, captain! How much? €26 (£22.33) per night, per bed. See fortunahajo.hu
GENERATOR HOSTEL DUBLIN, IRELAND Get into the swing of Dublin at these new digs in the heart of the city, smack-bang in Smithfield Square. What’s more,
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the hostel is nestled in next to the Jameson distillery and is just around the corner from the famous Temple bar area. If you want to stay in a hostel with a touch of style, then this is definitely for you, with visitors given the options of ensuite, or a VIP suite with hot tub and Guinness bar. How much? From €15 (£13.20) per night per bed, depending on how many in your dormitory. See generatorhostels.com
HOSTEL SAN FREDIANO LUCCA, ITALY The San Frediano hostel perfectly encapsulates the beauty of the surroundings and the relaxed atmosphere of the Tuscan city of Lucca. It’s airy and well-lit with spacious, grassy grounds and is surrounded by the city’s thriving artisan markets and spectacular bridges. It’s the perfect location to launch your excursions to the Serchio Valley or the seaside in Versilia Riviera. How much? From €19 (£16.70) per person, per night. See hihostels.com
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