s n o i t a n i t s e D D N A L E & IR UK
PADDLE OUT Sensational sports, scenery and sights right here on your doorstep
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> CONTENTS
26 HIGHLAND LIFE
Welcome Letter
Photos: britainonview.com, belfastvisitor.com, Getty
Have a scenic adventure exploring the peaks of the Scottish mountains
04 EDGY EDINBURGH
08 CARDIFF CALLING
Secret drinking dens, old castles and Hogmanay celebrations galore
Everything from rafting to castles and tasty cream teas in the Welsh capital
18 BACKPACK THE UK
22 FUN IN BRUM
On a budget? Visit these top haunts for a seriously cheap holiday
Is Birmingham the UK’s second city? Read our guide and decide
Welcome to TNT’s Destinations UK & Ireland supplement, in which we bring you all of the most exciting activities that these terrific lands have to offer. Best of all, you don’t even have to travel too far from London for these adventures – so get packing, pronto. You’ll need some warm woolies if you’re planning on wild camping in the Scottish Highlands. Or, in fact, for anything you’re doing in Scotland, whether it’s visiting old castles in Edinburgh or staying out for an epic Hogmanay street party session. A wetsuit needs to be top of your checklist if you’re planning to catch some surf in Cornwall, one of our top picks for backpacking. Otherwise, just make sure you’ve got some comfy shoes for exploring the historic sites and beautiful landscapes of Wales and Ireland, and you’re pretty much sorted.
12 BEST OF IRELAND
Happy travelling!
Where’s the craic? Right here, with pints of Guinness and pretty peninsulas
The Destinations team
Group Editor Carol Driver Editor Laura Chubb Travel Editor Helen Elfer Contributing Writers Alasdair Morton, Jade Bremner, Frankie Mullin Head Of Design And Production Jon Cooke Picture Researcher Ruth Board Head Of Digital Marketing & Development Syed Ahmad Social Media Coordinator Dan Thorne Wed Editor Oli Jones Commercial Director David Alstin Sales Manager Jaqui Ward Classified Ad Manager Matt Syder Sales Executives Eddie Clinton, Donovan Smith, Michael Fair Sales Administrator Abby Nightingale Marketing & Events Phoebe Cherrill Accounts Margaret Roberts, Suzanne Welsh TNT Multimedia Ltd CEO Kevin Ellis Chairman Ken Hurst Publisher TNT Multimedia Limited Distribution Emblem Direct Ltd Printed By Wyndeham Peterborough Limited News AAP Pictures Getty Images, TNT Images, Thinkstock Address TNT Magazine, 16 Brune Street, London, E1 7NJ Website tntmagazine.com General Enquiries Phone 020 7953 8469 Fax 020 7953 7957 Email enquiries@tntmagazine.com Sales Enquiries Phone 020 7989 0567 Email sales@tntmagazine.com
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Clockwise: Edinburgh’s pretty Old Town; a traditional bagpipe player and Port O’ Leith pub; the sunset view from Calton Hill; fun at The Scotch Whisky Experience; having a well-earned rest at the top of Arthur’s Seat Xxxxxxxxxxxxx
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Scotland > Edinburgh
Edinburgh uncovered There’s so much going on in Scotland’s prettiest city, it would take years to explore fully. We’ve rounded up the places you just can’t miss – and a few secret spots, too WORDS HELEN ELFER
H
ome to secret drinking dens, epic castles and lots of exhilarating, outdoorsy activities, Edinburgh is one of those must-visit destinations. Maybe you want to see all the tourist staples, or perhaps you prefer to uncover lesserknown sides of the city. Either way, we’ve got some great suggestions as to how to make the most of your time in one of Scotland’s top spots.
Drinking
FAST FACTS WHEN TO GO May, June and September are the best months for dry, sunny weather although Edinburgh is pretty rainy all year round, with frequent fogs. Don’t let that put you off, though. There’s plenty to do even when it’s wet. ACCOMMODATION Aonach Mor is a charming, family-run guesthouse that is only a 10minute bus journey from the city centre. They even throw in free internet access. (aonachmor.com) SEE edinburgh.org
TOURIST TRAIL: Be honest – did your mouth start watering at the thought of all that Scotch as soon as you even read the word Scotland? Head to the city’s beloved The Scotch Whisky Experience. Riding a whisky barrel through a replica distillery is just one of many highlights over the course of this tour. You’ll be taken on a sensory journey of discovery, appreciating the sights, sounds and smells of whisky production. It ends with a peek at the world’s largest collection of Scotch Malt Whisky and includes a free dram. (scotchwhiskyexperience.co.uk) OFF THE BEATEN TRACK: Forget all of Edinburgh’s swanky bars and hole up in a sailor’s pub instead. At the Port O’ Leith bar, nothing much has changed for 30 years, which is why the pub is still loved by seafarers and locals alike. This Leith institution, where Irvine Welsh, of Trainspotting fame, was once a regular, is a real sailors’ pub, complete with ship flags on the roof, and a display of banknotes from around the globe. The scruffy, but charming, tavern oozes
character, draws an interesting mix of people and has cheap beer. We guarantee that you will never be lonely here – nor will you be sober when you leave. (Port O’ Leith Bar, 50 Constitution Street, tel. 0131 5557019)
Outdoor adventures
TOURIST TRAIL: Climb the very manageable 823ft to the top of Arthur’s Seat for incredible panoramic views over the city. The craggy peak of this volcano presides over Edinburgh’s skyline, and was formed when a glacier eroded an extinct lavaspewer about 350 million years ago. (edinburgh.org) OFF THE BEATEN TRACK: One of the prettiest cycle paths in Edinburgh is the Water of Leith, which snakes its way along stone bridges, historic sites, and ancient woodland. Along the way, otters can be spotted lunching on brown trout by >> GETTING THERE British Airways flies from London airports (Gatwick and Heathrow) to Edinburgh from £110 return. britishairways.com
SCOTLAND
Glasgow EDINBURGH ENGLAND
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Clockwise: The Palace Gardens; a Gun Royal Salute at Edinburgh Castle; Mary King’s Close
City sights TOURIST TRAIL: A royal residence since the 12th century, Edinburgh Castle is the city’s most iconic edifice. Try to time your visit for around 1pm, when a field gun inside the castle walls blasts a round of shellfire to mark the hour (every day except Sunday). Don’t miss the beautiful St Margaret’s Chapel, the oldest part of the castle, or the gritty and engaging Prisoners of War exhibition in the dungeons. (edinburghcastle.gov.uk) OFF THE BEATEN TRACK: The Real Mary King’s Close is only for the strong of stomach. This underground warren in Edinburgh’s Old Town is said to be haunted by plague victims who were walled up in the close in the 1600s and left to die. A tour of this murky site gives a fascinating insight into life in the city between the 16th and 19th centuries. Walking the dark, spooky passages with a costumed guide is a nerve-jangling experience, and you’ll be told more than your fair share of ghost stories, as you listen out for the spooky scratching noises that come from inside the chimneys. (realmarykingsclose.com) n
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HOORAY FOR HOGMANAY The Scots like to do New Year properly, and that means a three-day party called Hogmanay, starting on New Year’s Eve. Huge street parties, fireworks displays, an atmospheric ‘torchlight procession’ and live bands all feature. Given the line-up in recent years (Primal Scream, Groove Armada and Scissor Sisters are just a few past headliners), we’d be willing to bet it will be a belter. But be sure to nab your tickets as soon as possible, as the show is almost always a sell-out. (edinburghshogmanay.org)
Photos: Getty, Ross Angus/Creative Commons, Adrian Ray, Scottish Viewpoint, Ronnie Baxter
the riverbank, while herons and kingfishers rest on the rocks. The riverside path is a favourite getaway for local walkers and cyclists, and you can choose to join and leave the path wherever suits. One scenic route starts off in Roseburn, with a detour to the excellent Scottish Gallery of Modern Art, via picturesque Dean Village, finishing with a drink in a Stockbridge bar. But go easy – you wouldn’t want to drink and drive/ pedal. (waterofleith.org.uk)
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Argyle Backpackers is a quiet, friendly, clean, 4*hostel located just off the Meadows, Edinburgh’s central park and a hub during the festival. We are less than 15 min walk from the castle, university and buzzing city centre, yet in a calm and relaxed part of town, with pubs, restaurants and shops nearby. We offer private rooms and dormitories with free digital safes/lockers, 2 self-catering kitchens, conservatory, sunny garden, free Wifi and free tea/coffee.
Ph 0131 667 999 1
www.argyle-backpackers.co.uk
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Clockwise: white water rafting in Cardiff Bay; take your pick of directions for Taff Trail; cycling on the trail; the Millennium Stadium; Cardiff Castle; award-winning tea
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Wales> cardiff
Have a capital time in Cardiff Got a few days to spend in Wales’ most exciting city? Here, you’re guaranteed an action-packed holiday, filled with sporty adventures, ancient sites and terrific grub WORDS HELEN ELFER
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hoever says Wales is sleepy has obviously never set foot in its capital, Cardiff. The city is jam-packed with exciting things to do, regardless of what kind of holiday you’re looking for. There are restaurants full of regional treats for the foodies, outdoor pursuits dangerous enough to satisfy any adrenaline-seeker and heaps of museums and galleries for the culture vultures. Whatever you do with your time in Wales, just make sure to pack as many of these top Cardiff activities into your trip as possible and you’re in for a blast.
FAST FACTS
Visit Cardiff Castle
WHEN TO GO Wales has lots of rain all year round, but June to August are the driest months and also the busiest in terms of tourism. ACCOMMODATION Riverhouse Backpackers is a small, family-run hostel on the banks of the River Taff. There are great views from here of the Millennium Stadium and Cardiff Castle and a lovely garden terrace for chilling out on with mates. Dorm beds start from around £15pn. (riverhousebackpackers.com) SEE visitcardiff.com
Sprawling out into the city centre is the 2000-year-old Cardiff Castle, which is worth pottering around. The interiors are dripping in Victorian bling, with rooms lavishly festooned with marble, polished wood and chandeliers. Tickets are £11pp. SEE: cardiffcastle.com
Go white water rafting Begin your holiday with a splash by taking on the raging white water rapids that can be found in the heart of the city, in the Cardiff Bay area. Cardiff International White Water offers thrill-seekers the chance to go white water rafting, which costs £50pp for a two-hour session. SEE: ciww.com
Drink an award-winning cup of tea Grab a nice warming cuppa at the award-winning Waterloo Gardens Teahouse, which boasts more than 50 loose-leaf teas, coffees made with freshly roasted beans and legendary cakes. You can get a delicious afternoon tea here for £11.50pp. SEE: waterlootea.com
Bike the Taff Trail
Want to give your lungs a workout? Hire a bike and explore the wild Welsh countryside by following part of the Taff Trail. It begins at Cardiff Bay and ends at Brecon, which is a calf-muscle-punishing 88km away. SEE: tafftrail.org.uk
Tour Millennium Stadium This venue has helped place Cardiff firmly on the map since it was built in 1999. As well as hosting the Rugby GETTING THERE Take the train from London Paddington to Cardiff Central. Single tickets from £11.50 if booked in advance. firstgreatwestern.co.uk
WALES Cardiff
ENGLAND LONDON
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Clockwise: revellers at Mermaid Quay; Cardiff Castle’s interiors; the grand National Museum Cardiff
World Cup and FA Cup finals, big-name pop acts including U2, the Rolling Stones and Madonna have performed here. Tours cost £7.50pp. SEE: millenniumstadium.com
BRECON BEACONS There’s no end to the amount of activities you can get up to in Brecon Beacons.
Go for locally sourced food at Ffresh Bar & Restaurant, which has sweeping views over Cardiff Bay. Dishes all have a regional emphasis – think Welsh goats’ cheese souffle and locally farmed shoulder of lamb. SEE: wmc.org.uk
For those of you who are always after the next jolt of adrenaline, there’s plenty to satisfy your appetite in Wales’ famous mountain range. Abseiling down rock faces, off-road cycling and caving are just some of the extreme sports available.
Wander the National Museum Cardiff
If you want the best possible view of the stunning scenery, why not sign up for a paragliding or hang gliding session, too? Find reputable organisations to sign up with on the the Brecon Beacons website. (breconbeacons.org)
This one is a real must for art lovers. The NMC contains one of the finest collections of impressionist paintings outside Paris, including works by Renoir, Monet and Cezanne. SEE: museumwales.ac.uk
Drink award-winning wine Fifteen minutes’ drive from Cardiff city centre, the picturesque Llanerch Vineyard offers tasting sessions of Welsh wines and countryside walks. SEE: llanerch-vineyard.co.uk
Party in Mermaid Quay The city’s vibrant waterfront, Mermaid Quay, is awash with bars and restaurants. Join all the trendy Cardiff folk for a tipple as they let their hair down in the evenings. SEE: mermaidquay.co.uk n
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Photos: Crown copyright (2012) Visit Wales, Andrew Hazard, Thinkstock, James O. Davies, Getty
Eat a Welsh meal
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Discover Flat Holm Island Just 5 miles from Cardiff enjoy the... boat trip from the Cardiff Bay Barrage guided tour exploring the Island’s history and nature cosy Island pub Farmhouse Hostel
Day Trips - March to October
Tel: 029 2087 7912 www.flatholmisland.com
ce Experireilnl of the th river boarding
Best Vis
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International Sports Village, Cardiff CF11 0SY
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Lakes of Killarney
Cycling in Kerry
Guess where these guys are from?
Ireland’s favourite tipple
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Belfast by night
Fungie the dolphin entertains tourists in the Dingle Peninsula
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Best of > ireland & NORTHERN IRELAND
Diamonds of the Emerald Isle Famed for friendliness, beauty and a penchant for having a good time, Ireland and Northern Ireland have many sides to their charm. Here’s a guide to the best WORDS FRANKIE MULLIN
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eyond the stereotypes, Ireland and Northern Ireland are as characterful and fascinating as any of their most colourful depictions. Take the time to explore; away from the city centres lie dramatic scenery perfectly suited to outdoor action and watersports, plus isolated secret spots to rival anywhere in the world. Whether it’s escaping to Kerry’s coast or marvelling at the Giant’s Causeway, there’s a host of unforgettable experiences in store. Here’s our pick of the highlights.
Dublin Often associated with rowdy St Patrick’s Day celebrations and lairy stag dos, Dublin actually has far more to offer. WHAT’S THE CRAIC? It may be another Dublin cliché, but the city’s literary past is fascinating. Visit the haunts of Bram Stoker and wonder where the Irish author found inspiration for Dracula, or take a literary pub crawl and commune with the ghosts of James Joyce, Samuel Beckett and WB Yeats (dublinpubcrawl.com). Pop into the free National Museum of Ireland to see 2000-year-old bog people – human corpses naturally preserved in bogs over the centuries – who historians believe were sacrificed to the gods of fertility. With culture out of the way, St Patrick’s Day in Dublin is likely to be one of the best parties you’ve ever stumbled through. Between March 17-20, thousands of Irish people and visitors flock to the city for boozing, Irish music, and a huge parade of street theatre troupes, dancers and marching bands. DON’T MISS: Learn how to pull a perfect pint at the
Guinness Storehouse, then knock back a pint in its 360degree bar, which affords knockout city views. Guinness’ advertising hall of fame is well worth a look as it includes commercials that date back to 1929. MORE INFO: visitdublin.com
Galway Small, friendly Galway city epitomises what’s brilliant about Ireland; it’s brimming with history and atmosphere. WHAT’S THE CRAIC? Galway city centre is pedestrianised and this, along with the laid-back vibe, makes pottering around the sights – in which you should include the Claddagh area, birthplace of the eponymous ring – feel almost festival-esque. During St Patrick’s Day the whole strip turns into one giant party and Galway can hold its own with Dublin on this one. Another social highlight is the Galway Oyster Festival (galwayoysterfest.com) in September. Only a short drive from Galway City, the mountaintops and vast bogs of Connemara feel wild >> GETTING THERE Dublin, Shannon and Cork have airports with regular scheduled flights starting from £85 return with Ryanair ryanair.com Fly from London Southend to Belfast from £59 return with easyJet easyjet.com
Giant’s Causeway N. IRELAND BELFAST IRELAND Galway DUBLIN Limerick Kerry
Cork
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and open and the coastline is stunning. DON’T MISS: Ireland’s School of Falconry, in the dramatic Ashford Castle, is the oldest in the country and you’ll get a chance to fly your own bird of prey and see harris hawks, peregrine falcons and an eagle owl (falconry.ie). MORE INFO: galwaytourism.ie
Cork Cork city, on the banks of the river Lee, is a buzzing university town, renowned for its food. The surrounding countryside is some of Ireland’s most stunning. WHAT’S THE CRAIC? The coastline of west Cork, with its cliffs and ocean, is breathtaking. Sherkin Island, off the southwest coast, is wild and beautiful. Take the ferry over (tickets £8; sherkinisland.eu). Despite having an average population of 100, there are two pubs. The island is known for its high proportion of artists, writers and musicians. Ireland’s second-largest city, Cork is packed with boozers and tempting places to eat. Seafood in particular is a specialty. The town has been dubbed ‘Ireland’s little Venice’ thanks to its bridges decked with twinkling lights. DON’T MISS: Cobh, in County Cork, was the Titanic’s last port of call and the town, with its tragic past, is worth a visit if the story fascinates you. Commemorative events continue until the end of the year (titanic100.ie). MORE INFO: cork-guide.ie; corkcity.ie
Limerick Limerick is the county for cyclists, with almost 100km of
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bike trails snaking through scenic countryside. WHAT’S THE CRAIC? Limerick City, on the banks of the Shannon, has a lively centre and prides itself on food. Learn how to whip up local specialties at its newly opened cookery school (abbeycookeryschool.ie) and pick fresh produce at the food market (milkmarketlimerick.ie). You can skim past the main sights in a day, but make sure you take in John’s Castle on King’s Island, which contains the remains of a Viking settlement. Sights seen, it’s time to get on your bike. The Ballyhoura Mountain Bike Trail is Ireland’s largest bicycle network of its kind, with 98km of trails to suit every level of prowess. DON’T MISS: The lively Limerick Riverfest takes place on the May bank holiday weekend. Expect a feast of live music, street performances, fashion shows and art workshops (limerick.ie/riverfest). The Great Limerick Run takes place on the same weekend (greatlimerickrun.com). MORE INFO: limericktourist.com
Kerry Wild and romantic, the mountains, coast and beaches of Kerry are a nature-lover’s paradise. WHAT’S THE CRAIC? The unspoilt Killarney National Park is all awe-inspiring mountains, ancient forests and shimmering lakes, perfect for hikers. You might even glimpse herds of Irish Red Deer. From Killarney, begin the Ring of Kerry trail (you’ll need a car for this one) which takes in gorgeous beaches, Iron Age forts, ancient monasteries and some of Ireland’s prettiest villages. ››
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Photos: Getty Rob Brady TNT Images Don Moloney/Press 22 Northern Ireland Tourist Board British Tourist Authority Frankie Mullin Fáilte Ireland
Giant’s Causeway, Antrim
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Best of > ireland & NORTHERN IRELAND
MYTHS AND LEGENDS Whether or not most Irish people believe in the country’s rich legacy of myths and legends, the stories are entertaining stuff.
Limerick’s weekly food market
Photos: Getty, Rob Brady, TNT Images, Don Moloney/Press 22, Northern Ireland Tourist Board, British Tourist Authority, Frankie Mullin, Fáilte Ireland
Paddling to the Giant’s Causeway
DON’T MISS: Often making ‘most beautiful in the world...’ lists, the Dingle Peninsula, which stretches 48km into the Atlantic Ocean, is topped with mountains and tapers into steep cliffs and sandy beaches. The highlight is Fungie the Dolphin, a wild bottlenose dolphin who lives in Dingle harbour and obligingly plays with the tourist boats which set out to greet him (dingledolphin.com). MORE INFO: kerrytourist.com
Antrim Antrim, Northern Ireland, is home of the Giant’s Causeway as well we being the county in which most of Belfast lies. WHAT’S THE CRAIC? Belfast has become one of Europe’s trendiest cities and is crammed with stylish bars, gourmet restaurants and pumping nightclubs. It’s also where the Titanic was built and as such has a number of attractions based around the historic tragedy, including the brandnew Titanic Belfast museum (titanicbelfast.com). One of nature’s most impressive feats, the Giant’s Causeway, with its 40,000 interlocking basalt columns, is the only World Heritage Site in Northern Ireland. Resulting from a volcanic eruption 60 million years ago, according to legend it was carved from the coast by the giant, Finn McCool. Nearby cliffs are teeming with birds. DON’T MISS: Take the two-day North Coast Canoe Trail sea-kayaking route around the top of Northern Ireland for the chance to paddle up to the Giant’s Causeway rather than climb down to it from a car park (canoeni.com). MORE INFO: gotobelfast.com n
Perhaps most accessible is the infamous Blarney Stone in 600-year-old Blarney Castle, County Cork. After climbing the castle’s narrow staircase, you prostrate yourself on the roof, grab the adjacent wall, and, upside down, plant a smacker on the well-worn stone. Doing so is said to give the kisser the ‘gift of the gab’: an ability to speak eloquently and charm anyone. Famous garrulous Blarney Stone-kissers include Mick Jagger, Billy Connolly and Winston Churchill. Come to symbolise ‘Irishness’ the world over, the three-leafed shamrock has been a symbol of good luck for centuries. The druids originally believed the plant had evil-banishing powers and, later, the Celts also subscribed to the clover’s sacred properties. Finally, Christians hijacked the symbol, claiming the three leaves represent the Holy Trinity. Equally famous but perhaps harder to procure on a short holiday is the leprechaun. These little green-clad sprites are said to appear to humans as old men. Legend has it that leprechauns store gold in a pot which they hide, rather unsubtly, at the end of a rainbow. If you’re lucky enough to catch one, he must grant you three wishes before you have to let him go. You know you want to believe! Kissing the Blarney Stone
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Free Pub Crawl Wednesday Nights
Ace York is conveniently located near York railway Station and situated in Micklegate, the oldest part of York. This grand Georgian 1752 Budget York hostel has many impressive features including stone-flagged entrance hall, a grand carved sweeping staircase, panelled rooms, vaulted cellar and a fabulous Rococo ceiling featuring Shakespeare’s head.
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Oak-beamed basement games room
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TV lounge Sauna
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Outside seating area
www.acehotelyork.co.uk Book Now: 01865 242 288 centralbackpackers.co.uk
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FLY HIGH with the award winning albatross
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City centre location 177 beds Open 24/7 all year Free WiFi No curfew Free toast, coffee and tea Self catering kitchen Free reception safe Bed linen inclusive Free baggage/ bicycle/ bike storage
51 Grainger Street, Newcastle Upon Tyne, NE1 5JE Tel: +44 (0)191 233 1330 info@albatrossnewcastle.co.uk
www.albatrossn
ewcastle.co.uk
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top five > backpackING BRITAIN
Catch some waves in Cornwall
Top Brit spots for backpacking You don’t have to get on a plane to find adventure. Take a trip around Britain to see quaint towns, catch some waves, drink real ale and enjoy a change of scene WORDS HELEN ELFER
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hen you think backpacking, you normally picture yourself lugging bags around sweltering India, Thailand or Brazil. But there are many super places for a budget holiday closer to home. If you think Britain’s nightlife begins and ends in London, you’ve clearly never been to Manchester. Artistic types will love Liverpool’s culture, while history buffs can’t help but be drawn in by Oxford and York. If it’s sporty seaside fun you’re after, head to Cornwall for the surf. We’ll even let you in on our fave places to stay in each of these backpacking hotspots.
1 Cornwall WHY GO? Go for the hippy surf scene and the craggily beautiful scenery in Newquay. You’ll feel a million miles away from the Big Smoke while you’re tucking into rustic cream teas served at cafes all over town. There are numerous cute fishing villages to explore, too. STAY AT: Newquay International Backpackers is very close to surfing centre Fistral Beach – not too far to waddle in your wetsuit after a day in the sea. Dorms from £12.95pppn. SEE: backpackers.co.uk/newquay >> tntmagazine.com/destinations
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Radcliffe Camera is among Oxford’s prettiest old university buildings
2 York WHY GO? This ancient city, surrounded by 13th-century walls, is all cobbled streets and cutesy tearooms. Spend your time scaling steep hills and recuperating over a pint of real ale in one of the many historic pubs. Don’t miss iconic cathedral York Minster, either. STAY AT: Ace York hostel is inside a beautiful Georgian townhouse, circa 1752. Dorm beds from £16pn. SEE: acehotelyork.co.uk
Go mad for it in Manchester’s clubs
Visit the galleries and museums on Liverpool’s historic waterfront
4 Manchester WHY GO? The party in Manchester never stops, so whether you’re into rock, indie, D’n’B or pop, you’re bound to find a club that’s blasting out tunes to suit. STAY AT: The local YHA is clean and spacious, with plenty of communal areas for meeting other backpackers. Dorm beds start from £22.95pn, including breakfast. SEE: yha.org.uk
5 Oxford WHY GO? Visit the City of Spires to immerse yourself in the world of academia – the historic university buildings, including Bodleian Library, are very atmospheric. For creepy thrills, take a ghost tour at Oxford Castle, too. STAY AT: Central Backpackers is close to the city’s best bars, pubs and clubs. Dorms from £19pppn. SEE: centralbackpackers.co.uk
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York Minster is worth the walk
Photos: British Tourist Authority/ Tourism South East, Paul Underhill www.paulunderhill.com, Getty, Thinkstock, www.britainonview.com
3 Liverpool WHY GO? Liverpool has culture seeping out from every pore. Spend a few days here packing in as many museums and galleries as you can – including the Tate Liverpool, the Merseyside Maritime Museum, the International Slavery Museum and The Beatles Story. STAY AT: Hatters hostel is cheap, cheerful and within spitting distance of the Cavern Quarter, which is where The Beatles used to play. Single rooms from £33pppn. SEE: hattersgroup.com
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Shopping central: the landmark Selfridges Building in the Bullring. Below, left to right: Victoria Square and art hub the Ikon Gallery
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Partying hard in The Rainbow and, left, Brummie icon Ozzy Osbourne
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BIRMINGHAM > ENGLAND
Bigging up Brum Birmingham is fast gaining a reputation as England’s second city, with a shiny makeover and rich cultural heritage earning it genuine ‘must-see’ status WORDS LAURA CHUBB
K
nown as ‘Brum’ to most Brits, Birmingham, a former industrial stronghold in the West Midlands, has seldom struck holidaymakers as a mustsee destination – until now. It may have induced a few sniggers when Brum was ranked on The New York Times’ top 20 holiday hot list for 2012, but with more canals than Venice, a smart revamped centre and growing arts scene, Britain’s second-largest city is measuring up to London in more ways than sheer size.
FAST FACTS ACCOMMODATION The free breakfast at Hatters Hostel is available all day, so you don’t have to get out of bed too early after a big night out (from £16pn; hattersgroup.com). Mint Hotel is a surprisingly modern hotel considering they offer double rooms from just £85pn. Make sure to sink a drink at the cocktail bar or, if the weather’s nice, on the large terrace (minthotel.com). SEE visitbirmingham.com
Pretty city Birmingham’s recent makeover has transformed it into one of Britain’s most architecturally unique town centres. The centrepiece of Birmingham’s makeover, the Bullring (bullring.co.uk), is a shopping complex best known for its bizarrely designed Selfridges Building. Said to be inspired by a Paco Rabanne sequin dress, the futuristic-looking blob is covered in 15,000 aluminium discs and cost £60m. However, there are even more left-field visual surprises. Surrounded by canals, The Cube (thecube.co.uk) was built to evoke a jewellery box (and consequently the city’s jewellery heritage), its gold panels glittering in the sun whenever the fire in the sky deigns to come out. You’ll also come face-to-face with The Lovely People, an art installation by award-winning West Midlands graffiti artist Temper. Scattered in and around The Cube are a series of life-size bronze figures inspired by the people of
Birmingham – think a firefighter who won the George Cross and a woman who survived the Holocaust. The Mailbox (mailboxlife.com) is another funky development, a former Royal Mail sorting office that now serves as a stylish shopping centre with a string of canalside restaurants.
The arty party
Perhaps unsurprisingly considering Birmingham’s vibrant visuals, the city is also an exciting hub for art. Once a Victorian school, the Ikon Gallery (ikon-gallery.co.uk; free) is now given over to avant-garde art, with a mix of disciplines for you to gawk at. There’s also the Barber Institute of Fine Arts (barber.org.uk; free), which represents greats from the Renaissance to Impressionism (including Picasso). There’s also a good selection of Brit work here from the likes of Turner. >> GETTING THERE Single train tickets from London Euston to Birmingham New Street can cost as little as £10 if booked in advance. c2c-online.co.uk
ENGLAND Birmingham LONDON
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Artwork Iron: Man. Left, top to bottom: The Cube; the balti; stroll the city’s pretty canals
Brum was ranked on The New York Times’ top 20 holiday hot list for 2012 Hitting the town There are plenty of wild ways to end a day in Birmingham, thanks to an ever-growing nightlife scene. Serious clubbers will love The Rainbow (therainbowvenues.co.uk). With a complex that includes a bar, a warehouse with a huge dancefloor, an outdoor courtyard and two Victorian viaducts to dance underneath, there’s something to suit every taste. There are a host of big electro acts playing in the coming months, from SBTRKT to Annie Mac and Magnetic Man. If your taste is a little more grungy, salute Birmingham’s rock heritage (the city birthed Ozzy Osbourne, after all) and head upstairs to see live bands in rock pub the Bull’s Head (bullsheadmoseley.co.uk). And that’s Brum done. n
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GET STUFFED IN BRUM One of the most enduring icons of Birmingham is the balti, a Brit-ified riff on a curry (think a spicy stew). Ladypool Road is widely held to have the best restaurants (most are BYOB), but take some time to explore the famous Balti Triangle, spreading across the south of the city through Sparkbrook, Balsall Heath and Moselely. Anyone with a sweet tooth should also make time for a trip to Cadbury World (cadburyworld.co.uk; admission from £14.75). Try not to overdo it at the world’s biggest Cadbury shop at the end.
Photos: www.edwardmoss.co.uk, Pawel Libera / VisitBritain, Craig Holmes / ImagesofBirmingham.co.uk, alexhughescartoons.co.uk, Tamsin Mae
If you’re finding the galleries a bit stuffy and fancy some fresh air, head towards Victoria Square to find Iron: Man, a sculpture by artist Antony Gormley. Reminiscent of his much larger Angel Of The North near Newcastle, the iron figure’s feet are buried below ground, and it’s set at an intentionally wonky lean.
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The painterly surrounds of the Highlands
Spot the iconic Highland cattle. Right, try snowboarding in the Nevis range
A misty Loch Lomond. Above: treetops in Queen Elizabeth Forest Park near the loch
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Mountain biking in Cairngorms National Park
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scotland > highlands
High times in the Highlands With countryside rich in everything from towering mountains to crystal-clear lochs, Scotland’s Highlands boast some of the most impressive scenery in Europe WORDS ALASDAIR MORTON
S
FAST FACTS UK, with a grand total of 36 runs. The cotland is known for many things – WHEN TO GO The summer Lecht, to the east, is the smallest of the Irn Bru, rain, and an appalling months (May to September) will Scottish skiing centres, but with 18 runs is national football team. However, it is provide the longest days and the most pleasant temperatures still a good snowsports destintion. Skialso a fantastic venue for a wide variety (hopefully!). The winter months perfect conditions can last from the of outdoor pursuits, too. bring the snow, but also far more autumn all the way through to the winter, With a varied national geography unpredictable weather, so your choice of activities dictates when with some of the most outstanding running from the lowlands on the English to visit. scenery to boot. So grab those skis and border to the stunning Highlands, ACCOMMODATION There’s a discover Scotland’s too-well-kept secret. Scotland’s canvas for outdoor sports is vast range of accommodation options in the area, ranging from dorm TRY IT: Nevis Range – with the highest and varied. Up north you’ll find everything beds for about £17pn to B&Bs mountain in the UK towering above you, from mountain ranges for snow sports, from £29pn. See website below. and with skill-testing red and black runs sweeping lochs for watersports, and no SEE visithighlands.com and an array of runs for the less talented shortage of stunning scenery for trekking (or less foolhardy?) in the Snowgoose through, mountain biking across and bowl, it’s a great option for everyone. generally marvelling at. All of which makes the land of TOP BEGINNER’S TIP: Don’t think that just because you’re kilts, bagpipes and haggis a must-visit destination for not in the Alps you can’t get hurt – there are some very active adventurers. tricky runs here. Tread, or ski, carefully. SEE: visitscotland.com >> Skiing Scotland has all manner of sky-scraping mountains for snow sports. There are five ski centres spread across the GETTING THERE country’s central belt: the Nevis Range, Cairngorm Return flights from Mountain, Glencoe Mountain, The Lecht and the London to Glasgow and Loch Ness Edinburgh start at around Glenshee Ski Centre. The Nevis Range, seven miles north SCOTLAND Fort William £45 and £55 respectively Ben Nevis of the harbour town of Fort William, has wonderful with easyJet. snowboarding conditions at altitudes just shy of 4000ft. easyjet.com Glasgow Glencoe Mountain to the south was the country’s first ski Car rental is the best way to EDINBURGH centre – it opened in 1956 – and has 19 runs. At the explore the Highlands. Glenshee Centre, you’ll find one of the most challenging ENGLAND black runs in the country. This is the largest ski centre in the tntmagazine.com/destinations
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Watersports Known for its lochs and miles of coastline, Scotland has no shortage of watersports options. There’s sea kayaking, diving, white water rafting, and even surfing. For the hardy, there’s also loch swimming, although even in the midst of the summer months, you best brace for a cold shock! The numerous glacially forged lochs provide ample routes for exploratory kayaking, and the Atlantic coast’s a haven of islands and inlets ripe for investigation. Sunken Second World War ships and submarines make Scotland a treasure trove for wreck divers, and the swell from out west makes it a surprising surf site, too. TRY IT: Lochaber Yachting and Watersports on the banks of Loch Leven. TOP BEGINNER’S TIP: If the weather looks unsuitable for onthe-water activities, wait it out for a bit before giving up – the climate is incredibly changeable in these parts. SEE: lochaberwatersports.co.uk
Climbing the Ice Factor’s tricky wall in Kinlochleven
TOP BEGINNER’S TIP: Don’t underestimate how much your arms will ache! Furious climbing takes its toll. SEE: ice-factor.co.uk
Trekking With beautiful coastlines, stunning lochs and glens, lakes, rivers, brooks, beaches, seaside towns, remote villages, and all kinds of hidden away nooks and crannies, taking off on foot is perhaps the best way to explore the country and its countryside for yourself. You can take your time, make your own route and there are treks available for all experiences, tastes and ambitions. For a gentle waterside perambulation, try Loch Lomond, or for a steeper, Munroscalping challenge look no further than the Nevis Range. TRY IT: Sandwood Bay, Sutherland. The beautiful, secluded beach is a thing of wonder. TOP BEGINNER’S TIP: Waterproofs – you’ll not get far without them. SEE: jmt.org/sandwood-estate
Ice climbing In the winter months, the peaks and faces of the mountainous ranges provide plenty of challenging ascents for climbers. For those keen on some ‘out of season’ ice climbing, there is the UK’s premier mountain activity centre, home to the world’s biggest indoor ice climbing arena. It also houses the UK’s highest articulated overhanging rock climbing wall and is a perfect venue for beginners through to pros seeking to hone their skills. TRY IT: Ice factor, Kinlochleven.
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Safari The land of Robert Burns is home to a wealth of wildlife: roe deer, bottlenose dolphins, majestic eagles, the elusive red squirrel, wildcats and, of course, the iconic Highland cattle. Marine life such as seals, killer whales and basking sharks can be spotted off the western coastline in Argyll and the Isles, with plenty of excursions to see the beasts in their habitat. There’s more than 370 bird species on the Outer Hebrides for amateur ornithologists. Ancient
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Photos: Britain on View, Scottish Viewpoint, Dale Reubin, Isabel Cameron, Robin McKelvie, TNT images, Jack Harper, Getty, Thinkstock
Clockwise from top left: wild camping; cooking up some grub in the great outdoors; exploring the Cairngorms National Park
scotland > highlands
HIGHLAND GAMES No trip to Scotland is complete without attending the Highland Games. The tradition goes back to the times of warring clans in medieval times when the biggest, boldest and most surly (probably) from each clan would compete to show off their strength and skills. Just think of the scene in Braveheart in which Gibbo faces off against his old chum in a stone throwing contest.
Photos: Britain on View, Scottish Viewpoint, Dale Reubin, Isabel Cameron, Robin McKelvie, TNT images, Jack Harper, Getty, Thinkstock
Scenes from the country
woodlands and island habitats offer the chance to see nature in all its breathtaking beauty, and there are nature trails and feeding stations, too. TRY IT: The Cairngorms National Park, Britain’s largest national park at a 4528sqkm – twice the size of the Lake District, Loch Lomond and the Trossachs. It has five of Scotland’s highest mountains, an arctic wilderness, and its forests have remnants of the original Caledonian pine forests that once covered Scotland. TOP BEGINNER’S TIP: Patience and preparation make your nature spotting more likely to succeed. SEE: cairngorms.co.uk
Wild camping
It is moreover a celebration of Scottish and Celtic culture, with poetry, theatre and music alongside the heavyweight athletics entertaining crowds. You’ll find plenty of locals enjoying the spectacle as well as out-of-town visitors. The modern-day Highland Games date back to the Victorian era and most take place during the summer months. Muscled men compete in events such as tug-o-war, the Scottish hammer throw, the stone put, and the iconic caber toss, but this isn’t just about feats of brawn over brain. Just as important to the spirit of the games is music, particularly pipe bands, with the World Highland Dancing Championship held every year to celebrate this. The Ceres Highland Games, in Aberdeenshire, is the oldest free games in Scotland, and the Cowal games in Dunoon is the largest of all. (shga.co.uk)
Scotland has a relaxed attitude towards campers – pitching your tent wherever you want is perfectly legal, so pick your favourite spot in the painterly surrounds. Then you can just kick back, get some grub warming on the stove and sup on a single malt while the sun goes down. In the longer summer months, due to the northerly latitude, the sun can be out late into the evening. TRY IT: Loch Etive, in the borough of Argyll and Bute. Marching through the glen down to the lower loch, you can marvel at the impressiveness of the wilds and truly feel you’ve escaped from it all. TOP BEGINNER’S TIP: Carry a trowel for convenience and courtesy – it makes sense! Also be sure to respect the environment and take rubbish away with you. SEE: cool-camping.co.uk n tntmagazine.com/destinations
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