s n o i t a n i t s e D UK PLUS: SCOTLAND IRELAND ACTIVE BREAKS HIP HOSTELS
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CITIES Top weekend getaways
TNT selects the UK’s hottest destinations
BATH
10 ACE CITIES
There is no more entrancing UK city than Bath – a triumph of elegance more than 2000 years in the making. The Romans established the city to take advantage of its therapeutic spring, but it was the architects and wealthy patrons of the Georgian era who fashioned a city – using the distinctive cream-coloured local stone – that became a byword for splendour, and, later, Unesco world heritagelisted. A compact city, it is a joy to wander around and soak up the history and atmosphere. And afterwards you can soak up the famous waters by having a dip in the magnificent rooftop pool at the Thermae Bath Spa.
EDINBURGH A road trip around this fair isle is incomplete without a visit to the Scottish capital. The city itself is divided into the Old Town – a spectacular Edinburgh Castle network of winding cobbled streets spiralling downhill in the shadows of the majestic Edinburgh castle – and the New Town, a more cosmopolitan network of shopping, nightlife and entertainment. Beneath the castle,
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Unwind in a bath in Bath
in the heart of town, are the Princes St Gardens. Take a picnic and soak up the essence of this truly atmospheric city. As for whiskey, check out The Bow Bar, around the corner from the castle, on West Bow. It’s a place you’ll come back to.
YORK Dominated by the epic Minster – the largest gothic cathedral in Northern Europe – York has a long and colourful past. Invaded by Vikings and ravaged by the Great Plague, York’s history dates back to 71AD when it was founded by the Romans. Every trip here must include a visit to the Jorvik Viking Centre, alive with the sights, sounds and wretch-inducing smells of Viking times. Then discover a deluge of cutesy tea rooms and trinket shops in The Shambles, a cobbled street which snakes its way
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The Angel of the North, Newcastle
through the centre of town. Branded the most haunted city in Europe, York’s shadowy snickleways; narrow, winding alleyways; and historic buildings are thought to be awash with things that go bump in the night, all of which you can hear about on one of the city’s numerous ghost tours.
NEWCASTLE Recently hailed the UK’s friendliest city, Newcastle has pristine pavements, shiny buildings, pricey drinks and European funding, which has led to its latest rash of superimposed ‘culture’. Whether it’s the Angel of the North or Sir Norman Foster’s Sage Music Centre, Newcastle has developed an identity beyond football and short-skirted ladies. The newly developed quayside is at the heart of modern Belfast: hip and friendly Newcastle. There are echoes of Sydney Harbour in the Tyne Bridge, but the most impressive feature of the quayside is the 19th century High Level Bridge. No trip to Newcastle is complete without downing a pint of the north east’s most famous export, Newcastle Brown Ale. Otorious Bigg Market is one place to stop for a drink, while the more sophisticated Central Station area, pricier Quayside and gay Pink Triangle are also good for supping. York has historic buildings aplenty
Cardiff is a beautiful city
BELFAST Belfast has shaken off its violent past to emerge a hip and friendly city that boasts atmospheric bars, cool clubs and a burgeoning shopping scene. Whereas Dublin has become ridiculously expensive and swamped with tourists, Belfast has still retained its unique character. Discover the political murals of the Shankill and Falls districts by taking one of the city’s famous Black Taxi tours, which also makes a stop at the Peace Wall that divides the loyalist and republican communities. The Cathedral Quarter is the city’s clubbing capital, while you can find traditional music in the pubs of the Gaeltacht Quarter in West Belfast.
CARDIFF Cardiff is a beautiful city built around a ruined castle with plenty of greenery right into the centre. The main shopping areas of Queen Street and the St David’s Centre are bustling, and the relatively new Cardiff Bay development gives it a truly cosmopolitan feel. Cardiff is Wales’ nightlife hub, with plenty of clubs and bars in the main city centre and also a good few waterside watering holes in Cardiff Bay. Creation is the largest and best known of the clubs, Remember the Beatles in Liverpool
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but the smaller venues can go off too. For live music, there’s the scruffy-but-affable Barfly.
LIVERPOOL The legacy left by The Beatles is still a major draw for most visitors to this music-loving city. Check out the Cavern Club, on Matthew street or the Casbah Coffee Club in Merseyside – both places where the Fab Four performed. The Beatles story at Albert Docks recounts the history of the band and the daily Magical Mystery Tour of Liverpool takes you to Strawberry Fields and Penny Lane, as well as other sites of Beatles mythology. The European Capital of Culture 2008 has always been a key player in the British art scene, with its Tate and the ‘National Gallery of the North, the Walker Art Gallery. The live music scene is very much alive and kicking in Liverpool where it’s possible to see a gig every night of the week.
GLASGOW Let’s face it, Glasgow is never going to win any “most beautiful city ” contests – especially given its proximity to prettier neighbour Edinburgh. But recent regenerative programs have seen Glasgow shed its rough and down-atheel reputation to emerge as a destination city in its own right. From the Charles Rennie Mackintosh-designed Glasgow School of Art to the eclectic Burrell Collection, Glasgow packs plenty of cultural clout. It also boasts a vibrant café and restaurant scene – its curry houses are particularly good – and a live music scene that has spawned many a global star.
mean there’s a real buzz to the place. And it just seems to be getting better – with thousands more media types preparing to call the place home from 2011 when the BBC relocates to its purpose built superheadquarters in Salford. For music lovers, just remember that the Madchester days of the 80s and 90s are long gone. The good news is you’re still guaranteed a cracking night out at any one of this city’s excellent club nights. Or if a civilised meal is more your ticket, then head to the Northern Quarter for an organic feast or out to West Didsbury for a superb suburban meal – strange but true!
BRISTOL Arguably cooler and definitely less upitself than London, Bristol has carved a niche for itself as a Westcountry haven of alternative arts and music. You may or may not know that Bristol is home to graffiti artist Banksy and musicians like Tricky and Massive Attack, but you’ll definitely pick up on the city’s creative, slightly anarchistic spirit as you wander the streets. Take in the stunning Clifton Suspension Bridge, chill in the Botanical Garden then seek out some music – Bristol is chocca with clubs and live music venues. St Paul’s Carnival is a good time to experience the city’s Afro Caribbean influence.
Energetic and edgy, Manchester is quite simply England’s coolest northern town. Its vibrant mix of students, young professionals, artists and fascinating industrial history
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MANCHESTER
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Manchester is a vibrant UK city
Bristol has an edgy, creative vibe
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ACTION STATIONS
From cycling to surfing, we show you how to get physical in the UK WORDS JANINE SURFING IN NEWQUAY Newquay boasts some of the best surfing beaches in Europe so grab a board and a wetsuit, and start riding those gnarly tubes and bitchin’ breaks. Busy with surfers in the summer with crowded swells, the beaches are much quieter in the chilly winter months – just make sure you wear a wetsuit, booties and hat before you dive into the icy water. If you’re a beginner, hire a foamie – a soft and easy-to- ride board – and if you want to have fun on small waves, grab a longboard. Once you’re done with the waves for the day, Newquay has plenty of wild nightlife to boot.
SAILING ON THE SOLENT Even if you’re simply pottering along on a calm day, the feeling of being on a yacht powered only by the wind and your own sailing know-
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how is exhilarating. And whether you’re an old hand at changing tack or can’t tell port from starboard, the Solent – the long stretch of water between the south coast and Isle of Wight – is a paradise for anyone with an interest in sailing. There are dozens of yacht clubs and sailing schools that operate on or near the Solent, which has novice-friendly waters yet easy access to more challenging routes – such as the famous loop around the Isle of Wight.
Fresh air: wander Dartmoor National Park
GETTING ACTIVE IN THE NEW FOREST Only 90 minutes by train outside of London, The New Forest is the perfect place to combine the great outdoors with getting fit. Boasting miles and miles of traffic-free cycling tracks leading deep into its lush interior, The New Forest is a magnet for cyclists. You can easily
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Hit the waves in Newquay
Essex is the place to cycle
hills this ain’t and the shock of this ruggedlooking landscape can knock the wind out of you quicker than the freshest breeze. If you’re keen to explore some of the 730 miles of public footpaths and bridleways then your first stop should be one of the information centres. And you don’t need to be Bear Grylls, there are a variety of
“ The feeling of sailing on a yacht can be exhilarating ” KELSO
Paddle power: hit the water in the New Forest
hire or bring your own bike. And it’s ideal for beginners or those who like a leisurely pace, as the topography is fairly flat. But that doesn’t mean it’s boring. The beautiful landscape makes it ideal for walkers with both circular and linear routes wending their way through the trees, with picnic spots and the odd country pub along the way. The New Forest is also a great place to learn bushcraft, archery and horse riding but if you want to get wet there are also plenty of opportunities for canoeing, kayaking and rafting on the Beaulieu and Lymington Rivers.
HIKING IN DARTMOOR NATIONAL PARK Stop for a breather at the top of a rocky moor in Devon’s Dartmoor National Park and you’ll no doubt be struck by the almost prehistoric atmosphere of this ancient land. Rolling green
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easygoing walks that suit all abilities. Of course, you can go the whole hog too and try out a spot of wild camping. Just make sure you take plenty of warm and wet weather gear for when the mists descend and the weather gets all moody. Lovely!
CYCLING IN ESSEX Forget the snooty cliches about Essex being full of chavs and crap towns, it’s also home to some of England’s most beautiful countryside and makes for a brilliant destination for road cyclists. From Audley End station, an hour’s journey from Liverpool Street, you can pick up a cycling route which meanders through rolling hills and historic towns such as Thaxted, famed for its pretty almshouses and 19th century windmill, and the stunning medieval hamlet of Saffron Walden. If you need to refuel, you could do worse than stop off at The Cricketers in Clavering. As you’d expect from a restaurant owned by Jamie Oliver’s parents, the food is fantastic.
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WILD AT HEART
NEED TO KNOW
Scotland: Loch it in
Discover knockout scenery & exciting cities in Scotland WORDS TNT WRITERS rom wild nights out in funky Edinburgh and Glasgow to the savage remoteness of the Shetland Islands and Ben Nevis, the UK’s highest peak, Scotland has loads to offer the independent traveller. It’s only a stone’s throw from London by plane or train too, so weekend missions are as easy as pie. We’ve picked five of Scotland’s best attractions.
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LOCH NESS You can’t visit Scotland without checking out the haunting Loch Ness, a giant and insanely deep lake wedged between towering mountains and the supposed home of the mythical beast, the Loch Ness Monster, affectionately known as Nessie. Head up to the ruins of Castle Urquhart, which affords fabulous views of the loch – and a chance to spot Nessie.
impossible to do justice to is the beguiling atmosphere of the Highlands. As you gaze across the mountains, valleys and lakes – the landscapes somehow take on an ever more entrancing feel. Maybe it’s the romance of being amid a genuinely wild and unspoilt environment, or maybe it’s the unrelenting nature of the vistas – at almost every twist and turn a spectacular new scene unfolds. The Highlands are, without doubt, one of the UK’s, and Europe’s, most rewarding destinations.
CLIMB BEN NEVIS Ben Nevis means “venomous hill” in Gaelic: an ominous name if ever there was one. The UK’s highest peak is a tough slog through snow and ice using crampons, rope and ice axes in winter, while in summer the snow disappears to make it a scenic and challenging hike.
WHEN TO GO Any time. Scotland’s climate is cool and wet. January and February are the coldest months. GETTING THERE Direct trains run from London to Edinburgh (4hrs30mins) and Glasgow. (5hrs). Buses run direct from London to Scotland’s major cities. Hire a car at easycar.com/ tntmagazine.com for a 5 per cent discount. Budget airlines fly from London to Edinburgh and Glasgow. GETTING AROUND Scotland has an efficient bus and train network. GOING OUT A pint of beer costs about £2.80. ACCOMMOD ATION Dorm beds start from £9 and private rooms from £18. SEE visitscotland.com
SCOTLAND Loch Ness
SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS The beauty of the Scottish Highlands has been the stuff of legends for poets, writers and artists alike for centuries. But what’s
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Ben Nevis
EDINBURGH Plenty of castles to explore
Glasglow
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Explore cultural Edinburgh
SCOTTISH CASTLES With its brooding skies, towering mountains and glassy lakes, Scotland provides an enchanting setting for its clutch of modern and ruined castles. Overlooking the Highlands and Lowlands, Stirling Castle has a turbulent history that features many of Scotland’s most colourful historical characters, from William Wallace to Mary Queen of Scots. Meanwhile, Edinburgh Castle dominates the capital’s skyline, perched atop an extinct volcano. Make like a royal and spend the night in Kinloch
“ Make like a royal and spend a night in a castle ” Castle, sited in the Isle of Rum in Scotland. Built in 1897, visitors can sleep in a hostel dorm situated at the back of a castle, in what used to be the servants’ quarters. If you’ve got cash to splash, stay in an Oak room, complete with four-poster beds. Also worth exploration are ruined fortress Dunnotar Castle and Eilean Donan, which sits in the middle of three lochs.
Climb Ben Nevis
Enjoy the nightlife
chock-full of friendly Scots boozing in bars, pubs serving steaming plates of haggis and great sights to check out like Arthur’s Seat and Edinburgh Castle, rising from the cliffs and looming over the city. Often overlooked, edgy Glasgow is just as worthy of a visit, especially for its dearth of tourists, thriving music scene and pub culture.
CHOW DOWN ON HAGGIS No trip to Scotland would be truly complete without at least trying haggis: a sheep’s intestine combined with onion, oatmeal, spices and salt. It is traditionally boiled in the sheep’s stomach but today many other casings are used. While it sounds horrible, it tastes incredible when served with “neeps and tatties”, which is usually yellow turnips and potatoes. It has become so popular that a vegetarian option is often available, but seeing how the haggis is very much a meat dish, it’s hard to believe the vegetarian option is anything like the real thing. Wash down your meal with a nip of Scotch whisky. The Scots are famous for brewing this drop. In fact, there’s even an act of parliament – the Scotch Whisky Act – that governs the quality of the product for it to carry the name Scotch whisky.
CITY LIFE
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Getty, Thinkstock, TNT
Edinburgh and Glasgow are vastly different cities, but both have much to offer. Funky Edinburgh is the first port of call for most travellers to Scotland. The capital is
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IRISH CHARM Soak up the Emerald Isle’s mighty craic
Stand tall: The Giant’s Causeway
WORDS JANINE KELSO
reland and Northern Ireland offers historic buildings, ancient ruins, mystical legends, a complicated history and a fascinating landscape, but the thing that makes it special is its spirit. The music will get under your skin and send shivers down your spine, and the stories you hear in a dusty local pub will bring a smile to your face.
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NEED TO KNOW
THE GIANT’S CAUSEWAY According to legend, the Giant’s Causeway was built by giant Finn McCool as stepping stones across the sea to help him meet his Scottish enemy. But scientists say that the honeycomblike formation of six-sided basalt columns were formed by volcanic eruptions more than 60 million years ago. Whatever you choose to believe, the Causeway is a must-see natural wonder. Those with a head for heights can
Swing by: Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge
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The Temple Bar, Dublin
cross the nearby Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge, which swings over an 80ft chasm.
DUBLIN Brimming with history and character, Dublin is positively cosmopolitan, its streets thronging with immigrants and tourists, leading many to think that the Republic’s capital is the country’s least Irish city. But dig a little deeper and get off the tourist map, and you’ll find the city still has much to offer. Dublin is the best place in the world to sup a pint of its most famous export, Guinness. Learn how to pull a perfect pint of the gloopy black stuff, topped off with a creamy head, at the Guinness Storehouse, then enjoy a drink in its dazzling 360° bar which affords striking city views. History boffins should pay a visit to the free National Museum of Ireland, home to two 2000-year-old people, who were preserved in bogs until they were discovered in 2003.
WHEN TO GO Any time. Winter is mild, summer is sunny. GETTING THERE Aer Lingus and RyanAir fly to Dublin and Belfast. EasyJet flies to Belfast. GETTING AROUND To hire a car, see easycar.com/ tntmagazine.com for a 5 per cent discount. Dublin and Derry can be easily explored on foot. GOING OUT A beer costs from £2.80 to £3.50. ACCOMMODATION Dorm rooms cost from £11 a night. SEE discoverireland.ie
Giant’s Causeway Derry
BELFAST
N. IRELAND DUBLIN
IRELAND 11
A troubled past
Historians believe the bodies were sacrificed to the gods of fertility to guarantee a good harvest. While tourist-trap Temple Bar is loaded with after-dark haunts, you’ll find a more genuine Irish experience – as well as friendly Irish folk – at boozers such as Hogans on George Street and Whelans, on Wexford Street, famed for its music and late bar.
www.britainonview.com, Getty, TNT
DERRY-LONDONDERRY The walled city of Derry/Londonderry has a turbulent and fascinating history, as well as a burgeoning cultural scene. In fact, the vibrant and forward-thinking city was recently named the UK’s first Capital of Culture for 2013. The city with two names – Derry, if you’re a Catholic nationalist, or Londonderry, if you’re a Protestant loyalist, might have a bright future, but this belies a troubled past.
Harrowing murals in the city’s Bogside provide a chilling reminder of Derry’s bloody past. Painted on end of row terraces, scenes depict everything from a boy clutching a Molotov cocktail and wearing a gasmask, to a 14-year-old girl who was killed in crossfire in 1971. Spend an evening in characterful pub Peadar O’Donnell’s, in Waterloo Street – its ceiling and walls covered in knick-knacks, flags, Guinness posters and stuffed animals. Fancy a pint?
Janine Kelso travelled with Shamrocker Adventures (08450 267 507; shamrockeradventures.com) on FILM LOCATIONS the Northern Rocker tour, which travels to Derry, Ireland’s beguiling landscape has captured the imagination of countless Belfast and the Giant’s Causeway. It recently won filmmakers, who have shot top movies, such as The Commitments and Michael ‘Best Visitor Experience’ at the Northern Ireland Collins. Although Mel Gibson’s swashbuckler Braveheart was set in Scotland, Tourism Awards. Shamrocker also runs three, five most of the battle scenes were filmed in Ireland. The D-Day scenes in Saving and seven day trips throughout Ireland, departing Private Ryan were also shot in Ireland, in County Wexford. from Dublin.
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of the e n o t in a Check- oolest digs UK’s c NINE KELSO
T O H S L E T S O H JA WORDS
1. THE CASTLE CARBISDALE CASTLE SYHA HOSTEL, SUTHERLAND, SCOTLAND What? Make like a King or Queen and spend a right royal night in an enchanting castle. Built for the Dowager Duchess of Sutherland in 1906, this building has seen many rich and esteemed folk step through its doors. Set in woodlands an hour’s drive north of Inverness, this castle hostel is great for groups, families and weddings. Walls are adorned with art and Italian marble statues stand on display in the main gallery. Easily spooked types should note that the castle even has its own ghost. Nearby attractions include distilleries, nature walks and mountain biking routes. How much? £20.50 per night, per bed. See: hihostels.com
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2. GENERATOR HOSTEL DUBLIN, IRELAND What? Smack bang in Smithfield Square in the heart of the city, these new digs are situated next to the Jameson distillery and just around the corner from the famous Temple Bar area. If you fancy a bit of pampering, visitors are given the options of ensuite or a VIP suite with a hot tub and Guinness bar. How much? From £13.20 per night, per bed. See: generatorhostels.com
underground Clashbar, the former base of the old Clerkenwell Magistrates Court where Charles Dickens worked while he wrote and immortalised the adventures of Oliver Twist. More recent residents include rock legends The Clash, who were held in the cells in 1978 for shooting at pigeons. How much? From £19 per night, per bed. See: clinkhostels.com
5. CASTLE ROCK HOSTEL, EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND Housed under the Castle ramparts, this laid-back hostel is within striking distance of the historic Royal Mile and the pubs and clubs of the Grassmarket. Top-notch facilities include a sun-patio, a traditional coal fire for those chilly wintry nights and an ice machine. There’s also a free walking tour of the city every morning. How much? From £15 per night, per bed. See: castlerockedinburgh.com
3. CENTRAL BACKPACKERS OXFORD
Hostelling International,Thinkstock
This award-winning hostel can be found in one of Oxford’s liveliest streets, Park End, lined with restaurants, pubs, bars and clubs. As well as a cosy TV lounge with movies showing all day, there’s a roof-top terrace with a BBQ. How much? From £19 per night, per bed. See: centralbackpackers.co.uk
4. CLINK 78, LONDON This revamped 200-year-old courthouse-turned-hostel is a classified English Heritage building thanks to its original prison cells and courtrooms. Spend evenings making friends, playing games and dancing in the hostel’s
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