s n o i t a n i t s De AFAR
ROAD TRIP Across the US on Route 89
PLUS CARIBBEAN TRANS-SIBERIAN WHITSUNDAYS ADRENALINE RUSHES
DESTINATIONS AFAR
Arizona’s Monument Valley is a stunning stretch of earthy, red sand
GETTING THERE Fly from London to Las Vegas via Charlotte, North Carolina with US Airways, starting from £380 return. (usairways.com)
U.S.A
Las Vegas
Grand Canyon
See Glen Canyon
Swing by Sin City
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The Grand Canyon
USA > ROAD TRIP
Road trippin’ in the US Seriously, where better to road trip? Climb in a convertible (or clapped-out hire car) and drive Route 89 from Las Vegas through the stunning Arizona landscape WORDS ALISON GRINTER
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he US’s Route 89 extends from Flagstaff, Arizona, to the Canadian border. But that might take a while to do! Instead, take a four-day, almost 300-mile odyssey along this highway from Nevada’s Sin City to the windy wastelands of Monument Valley and the Grand Canyon, via an Indian reservation and a cowboy ranch. It might be a short break, but packing in these must-see sights ensures you’ll see a breadth of US culture. From ancient traditions to the capital of modern day decadence, this is one hell of an eclectic road trip – and one we’d bet you’re unlikely to forget.
Glen Canyon
FAST FACTS WHEN TO GO Crowds flock to the south west during spring (MarJune), summer ( June-Sep) and fall (Sep-Dec) when the weather is mostly pleasant. Keep in mind the Grand Canyon North Rim closes from late October to mid-May each year. Las Vegas, however, never sleeps. CURRENCY 1 GBP = 1.56 USD ACCOMMODATION A double room at the Alexis Park Resort (alexsipark.com) in Las Vegas costs $55pn (£35). A double room at the Red Feather Lodge (redfeatherlodge.com), near the Grand Canyon, is $119pn (£76). Paria Canyon Ranch in Southern Utah (pariacampground.com) has bunk beds from $20pppn (£13), cabins at $50pn (£32), or camping sites for $10pppn (£6.40) . SEE visitlasvegas.co.uk and nps.gov
Rising 216 metres out of Lake Powell, the colossal convex concrete wall of Glen Canyon Dam marks the entry point into Arizona from Utah. The dam interrupts the Glen Canyon, a jewel in the crown of the 2300km mighty Colorado River, and where climber Aron Ralston cut off his arm after becoming trapped by a boulder, as dramatised in the film 127 Hours. From here you can pick up the Route 89A, the original Route 89, which will take you past the canyon’s sweeping walls swirled with a rainbow of earthy hues and eventually over the Navajo. Paria Canyon Ranch (pariacampground.com) sticks out like a raw behind along a desolate stretch of Route 89 in the south
of Utah and is a great base for exploring this cowboy country.
Monument Valley & The Painted Desert
A landscape of pastel pinks, browns and streaks of brilliant vermilion, the ‘Painted Desert’ is home to Navajo Nation, the largest area of land in the US owned by American natives. Indian markets and traditional dwellings called ‘hogans’ dot the approach to the sacred site. Some Navajos still reside in hogans. The modern version is a six-sided log hut that has a smoke hole in the centre of the roof with a doorway facing east to receive the blessing of the day’s first rays of sun. Further south along Route 89 is the spellbinding Monument Valley, 3218sqkm populated by enormous red sandstone structures known as ‘buttes’ and ‘mesas’.
The Grand Canyon
A detour off Route 89, south of Page, will bring you to Horse Shoe Bend, one of Mother Nature’s little quirks – a horseshoe-shaped meander of the Colorado River and worth the hot, hilly trudge through thick sand for what is an unmissable photo opportunity. Then motor on to The Grand Canyon, where it’s clear Mother Nature has had a field day. The Grand Canyon is so big, it’s almost as though it goes on forever. And if that isn’t spectacular >> tntmagazine.com/destinations
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DESTINATIONS AFAR BEST US CITY BREAKS New York Whether you’re visiting for two days or two weeks, the Big Apple represents the ultimate US city break . But be sure to get out of Manhattan and explore some of the hipster hangouts such as Williamsburg in Brooklyn.
They’re all friends now. Just wait ’til a few tyre bursts down the line
enough, a 2.9km return route from the South Kaibab Trailhead will spirit you from the shallow depths of the canyon to a vertiginous viewing spot called Ooh Ahh Point, 2029m above the Colorado River. Try not to “ooh ahh” while you’re there, we challenge you.
Seattle Follow the grunge trail or imbibe some ethically sourced coffee in the cool Capitol Hill area. A must see is the Museum of Flight which XXXX XHEADING HERE XXX houses a collection of 131 air and spacecraft (museumofflight.org).
It’s impossible not to appreciate Las Vegas – a town built purely with hedonism in mind A land of hotels, casinos and shopping centres in the middle of the Nevada desert, Sin City seems like a cruel joke aimed at environmentalists. But as you knock back smoky bacon martinis in the Double Down Saloon or tear along the strip in a limousine past the gondolas and canals of the Venetian Hotel and the Bellagio Hotel’s musical fountains, it’s impossible not to appreciate a town built purely with hedonism in mind. Alight in Downtown Vegas to witness the Fremont Street lights projection show, rub shoulders with Elvises under the ‘Welcome to Las Vegas’ sign, congratulate newlyweds and try your hand on the Blackjack tables before joining in with the excesses by the pool and waterfall at Tryst nightclub in the Wynn Hotel. To jolt yourself out of your stupor the next day try some indoor skydiving (vegasindoorskydiving.com). n
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Photos: Getty, Bob Brye, Thinkstock
Las Vegas
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DESTINATIONS AFAR Franz Josef Glacier
Black Abyss Caving
Skydive over stunning Lake Wanaka
GETTING THERE Fly from London to Auckland, with a stop in Seoul, with Korean Air from ÂŁ959 return (koreanair. com).
Waitomo NEW ZEALAND
Westport WELLINGTON Wanaka
Christchurch
Ledge Bungy
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Nevis Arc Swing
Glacier hiking
Photos: PR Image, New Zealand Tourist Board, Thinkstock
Queenstown
NEW ZEALAND > ADRENALINE RUSHES
Feel the rush in New Zealand The Kiwis have made their country the adrenaline capital of the world. Here are the biggest and best of the lot – from scary swings to night-time bungee jumps WORDS CAROL DRIVER
N
ew Zealand is a thrillseeker’s playground. The Kiwis have made it possible to jump, drive, slide, roll, fly or hike through pretty much any part of the country’s terrain. Here’s our top five adrenaline rushes.
Black Abyss Caving, Waitomo
You’re plunged into five hours of adventure with a 37metre abseil through a tiny hole in the ground at Ruakuri Cave. You’ll then explore a secret world which was hidden beneath the sea 30 million years ago. With two guides and a group of up to 12, you’ll zip-wire, leap, tube, squeeze and wade your way through ice-cold water during this thrilling adventure. The grand finale is climbing two fairly small but powerful waterfalls. An unforgettable journey – and a rather energetic one at that. Book from £94pp with The Legendary Black Water Rafting Co (waitomo.com)
At 400m above Queenstown, you’ll have the stars for company as you ride the gondola to the Skyline Complex, eventually stepping out onto a platform which is cantilevered out from the cliff face. Then, take a deep breath, glance at the stunning views of Lake Wakatipu and The Remarkables mountain range, and confront your darkest fears. Good luck! From £65 (ajhackett.com)
Glacier Hike, Franz Josef
If you like your hiking with a hint of 127 Hours (as in, you like adventure, not having to cut your arm off), opt for the fullday excursion. Equipped with crampons, make like a real adventurer as you trek deep into the heart of the ice-blue glacier. In five hours, you will slide through ice caves, shuffle down near vertical ice walls – and enjoy lunch while taking in the breathtaking scenery. From £74 (franzjosefglacier.com)
Nevis Arc Swing, Queenstown
Flying through the air with the greatest of ease has never been so terrifying. The Nevis Arc is the world’s highest swing, and will give you such a buzz, you won’t be able to sleep. Decide whether to travel 40, 80 or the exhilarating 120m as you power through the air, suspended 153m above the rugged Doolan’s Creek in Nevis Canyon. Not for the faint-hearted. Prices from £63pp (bungy.co.nz)
Ledge Bungy, Queenstown
Brave enough to leap backwards and flip into the darkness by trying the Ledge Bungy at night?
Skydive, Lake Wanaka, Wanaka
A trip to NZ isn’t complete without throwing yourself 15,000ft out of a plane, and this location offers more stunning views than most. With a flight that takes in vistas of Mt Cook and Mt Aspiring – the country’s highest snowcapped mountains – this is arguably the best place to do it. You’ll be distracted by the gorgeous glaciers, river valleys and glistening lakes as you fly over Lake Wanaka. Then it’s time to jump, falling for 60 seconds through the air before the parachute opens and you’ll glide peacefully down to Earth. From £180 (skydivewanaka.com) n tntmagazine.com/destinations
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DESTINATIONS AFAR
This is home for a week. Comfy beds and a lively buffet car await!
GETTING THERE Fly direct from London to Moscow with Aeroflot, starting at ÂŁ191 return (aeroflot.ru)
RUSSIA St Petersburg Yekaterinburg
Trans-Siberian route
Omsk Irkutsk
MOSCOW
Chita
Ulan Ude MONGOLIA Vladivostok
Lake Baikal
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Russian dolls
RUSSIA > TRANS-SIBERIAN
Trans-Siberian: Need to know Travelling the Trans-Siberian is a bona-fide must-do on the backpacker trail. Here are the answers to all the burning questions about the journey WORDS TOM STURROCK
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he Trans-Siberian railway has come to mean much more than the train journey across Russia it originally described. As well as the route between Moscow and Vladivostok, it’s now a catch-all for any train journey in this area – in fact, most travellers doing the ‘Trans-Sib’ will usually be heading from Moscow through Siberia, then across Mongolia to Beijing (or vice versa) – officially, the Trans-Mongolian. Here’s what you need to know about it.
How long does it take?
FAST FACTS WHEN TO GO You can go all year round so choose your departure date according to what you want to do en route, such as swimming or dog sledding. THE ROUTE The Trans-Siberian railway runs from Moscow to Vladivostok. The Trans-Mongolian runs through Mongolia between Beijing and Lake Baikal. SEE seat61.com for tips if you’re planning on going independently. Tour operators include The Russia Experience (0845 521 2910; trans-siberian.co.uk) which offers a 15-day Big Trans-Siberian trip; On The Go Tours (020 7371 1113; onthegotours.com), which offers a range of Trans-Siberian adventures; and Intrepid Travel (intrepidtravel.com)
(so don’t make a mess of the cabin!), but you’ll soon come to appreciate their Draconian rule. Most provodnitsas will work hard to keep their carriage neat and tidy.
What’s the cabin like?
Business-class flights, eat your heart out: on the Trans-Siberian you get a bed even in second class. So it might be a bunk in a four-berth compartment and the chances of you getting champagne on departure are slim, but nothing beats being lulled to sleep by the gentle rock of a train. During the day, passengers in second class tend to sit on the bottom bunk regardless of whose bed it is.
It takes seven days to travel straight from Moscow to Vladivostok, and six to Beijing, so even if you’re stopping on the way, each leg is far longer than your average commute. The journey between Yekaterinburg and Irkutsk is 52 hours, for example. Don’t fight the time, think duvet-day and embrace it. When else will you have hours stretching before you with little to do but eat, sleep, chat and read? If you ever wanted to get through Tolstoy’s War And Peace, this is the time. It’s a relaxing change from the usual everyday rush.
The meals might be hit and miss, but the restaurant car is the social hub of the train, perfect for a few beers, card games and the odd bit of drama. Expect to see waitresses flirting outrageously with men from first class, and maybe even your card game will be interrupted by the Russian volleyball team (this did actually happen!).
Who’s in charge?
Can I get off for a leg-stretch?
Each carriage is ruled by a train attendant known as a provodnitsa, if they’re female, or provodnik, if they’re male – though this is rare until China. They don’t suffer fools
What’s the food like?
Given the lengthy journeys, it’s good to get some fresh air and stretch your legs when the train comes into a station. It’s also a good time to top up >> tntmagazine.com/destinations
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DESTINATIONS AFAR
A typical cabin
Spend some time chatting to locals. This isn’t the Tube – be friendly!
dwindling food supplies – local vendors meet the train armed with homemade dumplings and giant pans of borsch. The train won’t stand in the station a second longer than scheduled, though.
How friendly are my fellow passengers?
Unlike the Tube, chatting to fellow passengers on the Trans-Siberian is part of the experience. And there’s nothing like staring out a window together to make secrets bubble to the surface. So don’t bring your sullen London ways with you – be open to conversation and make yourself some new friends.
A colourful station along the way
Will I see pretty views on the way?
Much of the journey between Moscow and Irkutsk is an endless blur of coniferous forest known as taiga. But leaving this city (or approaching it if you’re heading east to west) you get treated to views of Lake Baikal, icy white or shimmering blue, depending on the season. Through Mongolia to Beijing, you can catch a glimpse of the Great Wall of China. So keep a keen eye out the window – you’re in for a more picturesque ride than you might get chugging out of Clapham Junction.
The Trans-Siberian crosses five time zones (seven if you’re going to Vladivostok) but the trains in Russia run on Moscow time. Combine this confusion with the fact that journeys can be several days in length, and it’s best to forget about time entirely – normal rules do not apply on the Trans-Siberian – and adjust your watch on arrival. n
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Take a leg stretch when the train stops
Photos: TNT
What time is it on the Trans-Siberian?
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DESTINATIONS AFAR
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Photos: Getty, Thinkstock
Haiti
CARIBBEAN > TOP 5
Best Caribbean getaways Where better to catch some winter sun than the white-sand beaches of the Caribbean? Here’s our top five islands for topping up that tan WORDS JAHN VANNISSELROY
T
houghts of the Caribbean inevitably drift to reggae music, pristine beaches with crystal-clear water and lashings of rum cocktails. In reality, there’s so much more. Think vibrant music scenes – reggae, soca and salsa; a well-ingrained Rastafarian culture; verdant forests; tropical birds and fish; and fresh seafood and spicy stews.
Why: After the earthquake of 2010, Haiti has been on a slow road to recovery. There are plenty of opportunities to get stuck in and help rebuild the country, much of which still lies in ruins. In spite of the tragedy, locals remain fiercely proud and welcoming. Spanish forts, colonial cities and beaches still rival most other Caribbean islands. See: haitivolunteer.org
Jamaica Where: Jamaica is situated in the Caribbean Sea, about 145km (90 miles) south of Cuba. Why: Jamaica is home to fantastic diving spots around Runaway Bay and Ocho Rios. Magnificent stretches of stunning sands and tiny fishing villages dotted along the coast offer a glimpse into the true heart of the island. Nature lovers should make a beeline for the wetlands for a chance to spot endangered crocodiles and manatees. See: visitjamaica.com
The Dominican Republic
Where: A nation on the island of La Hispaniola, part of the Greater Antilles archipelago in the Caribbean region. Why: This is the archetypal Caribbean island with clear waters, white-sand beaches and year-round sunshine. Perhaps that’s why the Dominican Republic is the most visited Caribbean country. There’s also plenty to do here, from whale watching to some of the very best surfing in the Caribbean. See: godominicanrepublic.com
Dominica
Where: An island nation in the Lesser Antilles region of the Caribbean Sea, northwest of Martinique. Why: With no direct international flights, Dominica has warded off mass tourism, giving it an undiscovered feel. Mountain treks and great snorkelling combine to give Dominica its well-deserved moniker “The Nature Island”. Boiling Lake, a ghostly body of water sitting on top of molten lava, is one of the country’s greatest draws. See: dominica.dm
Haiti
Where: It occupies the western, smaller portion of the island of Hispaniola, in the Greater Antillean archipelago.
Puerto Rico
Where: In the northeastern Caribbean Sea, east of the Dominican Republic and west of both the United States Virgin Islands and the British Virgin Islands. Why: Puerto Rico seamlessly fuses elements of Latin and Caribbean culture with a contemporary and cosmopolitan American-inspired outlook. Spectacular beaches and colonial sites abound, while reggaeton (Latino hip-hop) and salsa provide the musical backdrop. The Spanish and English-speaking island is also home to gorgeous natural landscapes, including El Yunque rainforest and a millionyear-old cave system in the northwest. See: puertorico.com n tntmagazine.com/destinations
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DESTINATIONS AFAR
Sail the pristine isles of the Great Barrier Reef
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AUSTRALIA > WHITSUNDAYS
Sailing the Whitsundays We take to the high seas and learn how to sail around Aussie paradise. Along the way are whales, platinum sands, and rogue crew members ... WORDS CAROL DRIVER
T
his truly is paradise: azure waters spreading as far as the eye can see; platinum sands hugging tiny islands; and just the sound of the waves lapping against the sides of my yacht. I’m standing at the helm of our 42ft-long vessel mesmerised by the ‘better than it looks in the postcards’ view. “Man overboard!” My daydreaming is interrupted by the dulcet tones of our skipper, Tony. The crew springs into action: Mike acts as a pointer so we don’t lose sight of our lost man, and Nonie and Graham work together to hook ‘him’ with a pole as I bring the boat around. ‘Bob’ – a lifebelt – has a habit of falling in the water; it’s happened at least three times so far and it’s only the first day of my ‘learn how to sail’ course around Australia’s Whitsunday Islands. I’d travelled from Airlie Beach’s Shute Harbour, on the east coast, to Hamilton Island, the day before, and we set sail on Beneteau 423 to take in some of the 74 isles in the heart of the Great Barrier Reef for five nights. We spend a few hours going over the essential checks we need to carry out each day – WOBBLE (water, oil, bilges, battery, leaks, electrics) – as well as safety procedures such as what to do if there’s a fire, how to use the emergency radio and what mayday signals to use. It’s then all hands on deck. Having never sailed before, it looks quite complicated, with ropes and levers everywhere. But with his 39 years’ experience, including world championships and Olympic trials, we’re in safe hands with Tony.
The breeze picks up and our sails catch the wind, bolstering us along the ocean. We’re sailing! OK, we’re only doing a few knots, but it’s exhilarating. We learn how to gybe (turning with the wind) and tack (against the wind) while sailing to Nara Inlet where we excitedly spot a humpback whale. Between taking turns at the control, each of us acts as a naviguesser – the helmsman of any dangers such as low tide/coral/rocks en route and also to work out the best direction for our destination. I’m at the helm so Nonie and Mike set off to do the important task of making cups of tea. As they disappear below deck, Tony gives me the nod to throw Bob overboard. I shout: “Man overboard!”, before twisting the wheel. We hear crashing from the deck below and a bedraggled Nonie and Mike emerge looking unimpressed. Tony bursts into laughter as we try to rescue a “passenger” who is increasingly becoming a liability. >> GETTING THERE Fly from Sydney to Whitsunday Coast Airlie Beach Airport with Jetstar from £150 return. (jetstar. com)
The Whitsundays Q.L.D
BRISBANE
N.S.W
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DESTINATIONS AFAR Don’t spend all day on the boat. Swim and splash!
Spot humpback whales as you sail
The islands are off the Queensland coast
After spag bol, we retire to the deck to watch the sunset and drink G&T sundowners We splash around the warm water which is home to schools of colourful fish zipping about in the sun, then it’s back to the yacht to sail to Hill Inlet and finally anchor at Tongue Bay. My group crams into the tiny kitchen as we set about making spag bol, then retire on deck to watch the sunset and drink G&T sundowners. It’s been an exhausting, but rewarding day, and we’re all shattered but content. I just hope Bob doesn’t cause any trouble tonight. n » Carol completed the RYA Competent Crew Practical course around the Whitsundays with Sunsail costing £535pp for five days, including accommodation and food. See sunsail.co.uk
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XXXX XHEADING HERE XXX BEST OF THE REST: SAILING TRIPS Turkey Renowned for its sailing, Turkey offers steady winds and clear waters. Its coastline is divided into four areas. The Ionian offers the best climate; Carian is the most popular, and includes Bodrum and Marmaris. Or you can explore the rock tombs on the east Lycian, or the pirate coast with mountainous shores on the west of Lycian. Croatia With more than 1000 islands, the Adriatic coast of Croatia is the perfect place to explore by water. Start from the popular basis of Dubrovnik, Kremik and Pula, then discover tiny uninhabited inlets and anchor at a major port for chic bars and top-class restaurants. Budget and luxury options available from most operators. Greece From beginners to those who want a bit more of a high-endurance sport, sailing around Greece offers it all. Expect picturesque scenery, busy harbours and secluded bays. To the east, explore the villages of the Cyclades; while to the west, the mountainous Peloponnese rises up from the sea – breathtaking.
Photos: © Australian Tourist Commission, Matt Harvey, Ben Southall
Four hours – and three more Bob incidents – later we arrive at White Haven Beach, a stunning 7km stretch along Whitsunday Island. It’s one of the most amazing beaches I’ve ever seen. The water looks unnaturally turquoise, as though it’s been Photoshopped, while the white sand is so soft, it’s like walking in cake mix.