Think Krakow Magazine by THINK KRAKOW

KRAKÓW’S OLYMPIC DREAM 2022 FEATURE By Jens Markussen

DOWN IN ONE? THE DELIGHTS OF POLISH VODKA TOURISM

By Anja Wedberg

BUSINESS

KRAKÓW AS A TOP IT AND OUTSOURCING HUB

INSIGHT FOR BUSINESS TOURISM AND LIVING

Interview with Andrew Hallam

BUSINESS

KRAKÓW: FROM TOURISM TO TECHNOLOGY FEATURE By Michał J. Steckiw

MAKING WAVES: EIGHT YEARS OF LOCAL DIGITAL SUCCESS By Angel Lopez Peiro

LIVING

BIKING AROUND KRAKÓW By Salvatore Carfora

About Think Krakow

Insight for visitors, expats and the international business community in Kraków... Kraków’s cultural and historical heritage is world renowned, and the city has been a major hot spot on the European travel map for decades. Today Kraków is becoming an international hub for IT and business services, with the second highest number of foreign investments and companies in Poland. Kraków is also the 2014 European City of Sports and a bidding candidate for the Winter Olympics 2022. In 2013 Kraków became the UNESCO City of Literature. In 2016 the city will host World Youth Days. Not surprisingly, these developments attracts an ever increasing number of foreigners who visit and settle in the city. Think Kraków is the result of a collaboration between a mix of international and Polish residents who bring insight into life in Kraków beyond the obvious tourist attractions: living, working and doing business in the city. Learn about the latest developments, discover hidden treasures off the beaten track and find out what the city can offer newcomers – from recommended restaurants and bars to museums and gyms. Read interviews with local expats and foreign business people or follow in the footsteps of Pope John Paul II, Steven Spielberg, Celine Dion, Fidel Castro, Roman Polanski, Lenny Kravitz and other famous visitors. Kraków is riding on the crest of a wave – read this issue to get the most out of your Kraków experience.

“Florianska Street by night , Kraków.” Photograph by Radoslaw Piekarz

Michal Steckiw Chief Editor. Think Kraków

Małopolska Garden of Arts

Rynek - Main Market Square

Karma on Krupnicza Street

Main Railway Station & Underground tramway

Galeria Krakowska The Royal Route

Nowa Huta

Browar Lubicz

Krakow Arena Cracovia Business Centre

Hotel Andels **** Blonia common

Hotel Copernicus *****

Choco Cafe Hotel Sheraton *****

Wiślane Tarasy

Pod Wawelem restaurant

Galeria Kazimierz Dajwór Street

The Royal Castle on The Wawel Hill

Manggha

Valparaiso restaurant

Zabłocie

Kazimierz

Schindler’s Factory ICE Congress Centre

MOCAK

Unsound Festival at Forum

www.thinkkrakow.com

Kładka Footbridge

Stare Podgórze

Former Jewish Ghetto created by Nazi Gemany in WW II

Our contributors

Editorial contributions

Design & development

Elisabeth Wojcik

Kamila Jarosz

Christian Hamp

Monika Karcz

Anja Wedberg

Salvatore Carefora

Anna Cieśla

Thomas Stringe

Angel Lopez Peiro

Michał Steckiw

Jens Markussen Hilde Merete Udnaes

Photography

Elena Gordeeva-Voot

Michał Steckiw

Salvatore Carfora

Radosław Piekarz

Michał Steckiw

David Corral

Vegard Tverberg

iStock Photography

thinkkrakow.com

Katarzyna Morzewska Grzegorz Kałucki

Contact

Russell Lack

office@thinkkrakow.com

Derk Zijp

www.thinkkrakow.com

Content quality manager Anja Wedberg

Making Wakes Polska ul. Adama Asnyka 9 31-144 Kraków, Poland.

Facebook

Chief editor & Project manager

Michał Steckiw

produced by:

www.thinkkrakow.com

Anja Wedberg

Michal J. Steckiw

Anja is an expat Swede who moved to Kraków in January 2012, after spending some 12 years in the United Kingdom.

Digital Project Manager and web strategist with an interest in digital technologies, online communication and travel photography. A native of Kraków, he lived for many years in Canada (Toronto, Montreal) and the United Kingdom (London) and returned to the city back in late 2012. His professional background includes an MA degree in International Relations, a certificate in project management, and over 7 years of experience in visual communication design and digital industry. In his free time Michal bikes along the Wisła boulevards, enjoys dining out in bohemian Kazimierz or wanders around the city to capture charm of its old streets through photography. LinkedIN

Angel Lopez Peiro

Salvatore Carfora

His professional and academic background is related to journalism, translation and teaching English as a foreign language. Originally from Barcelona, Spain, Angel moved to Kraków in April 2011 to work for a technology and design firm as a web content editor for a travel portal. He is interested in Eastern European affairs, from business development, politics, social and cultural life to travel. Since moving to Poland Angel is learning Polish and explores Kraków nightlife and cultural events.

Salvatore is an Italian who decided to move abroad several years ago, to broaden his horizons and get to know other cultures and languages. He attended school of arts in Italy and gained a university degree in advertisement and graphic design. At some point he decided to move to the language business, and started a career in localization and translation for the gaming industry. His next career move brought him to Poland. Kraków is his last destination to date, where he shares his house with his girlfriend, a dog and several bikes. In this edition of Think Krakow, Salvatore shared his insight and tips on biking around the city. LinkedIN

Her professional background is in translation, marketing and web publishing. Anja has an MA in Translation Studies from UCL in London (2010) as well as an MA in English literature from University of Sussex (2000). Anja’s favourite pastimes are karate and taekwondo, although she can also be seen sampling flavoured vodka or drinking Książęce in Kazimierz. She is relentlessly optimistic and refuses to give up on learning Polish.

www.thinkkrakow.com

Meet some of our editors

www.thinkkrakow.com

Jens Markussen

Elisabeth Wójcik

Having finished his education within International Relations in August 2009, Jens moved from Denmark to Kraków with the initial idea of moving on after a few years. On the first day of his new job, however, he met his then future wife. All plans were changed again the folloawing summer when there were two lines on the pregnancy test instead of one. Today, Jens uses his Danish nativity both at work – when editing for a large tourism portal, as well as at home – when raising his daughter. Kraków has become his home. Jens is one of many international residents in a city that keeps attracting a mix of Europeans for study, work or love. LinkedIN

Elisabeth was born and raised in southern Belgium. She decided to move to Kraków after finishing high school, to discover better her country of origin while studying at the university. The first professional experience she gained in communication and translation, was within transition projects in HR and learning administration that eventually lead her to web content and people management. Elisabeth enjoys very much the international environment of Kraków, where Art and Culture are often the reason of unexpected meetings. In her free time, if she is not watching a good movie or testing new vegan recipes, Elisabeth is probably out walking Negra, her dog.

Christian Hamp

Vegard Tverberg

Chris is a native Austrian from Vienna who, after travelling and living in quite a few countries, was caught by Kraków´s lively culture & nightlive in October 2011. His professional and academic background meanders along the subjects of media management, journalism and public relations. In his sparetime Chris tries to spend as mu ch as time possible on reading about tourism and destinations, planning trips and travelling around the world. Despite his interest in other countries and languages, there is still a lot of room for improvement when it comes to his Polish language skills (he knows that Think Kraków doesn´t count as an excuse). If Chris is not working or travelling, there is a fair chance to find him in some café or bar in Kazimierz. LinkedIN

Vegard is a Norwegian whose holiday to Kraków seven years ago had a life-changing effect. Impressed by the city’s heritage he decided to move here permanently with his wife. Vegard is a licensed Kraków city guide and runs the Sviatovid Guiding Tour firm. He has been working as an accountant for twelve years, but it is his role as a guide that brings out his true personality; a teacher, an entertainer and a polemic. In his free time he loves nature; running along the Wisła River, hiking in the Tatra Mountains or going crosscountry skiing. Facebook

Meet some of our editors

Krak贸w Living

Business

We Recommend

Photo Gallery

Highlights

Editorial Features

Tourism

Editorial features From tourism to technology: Kraków is open for international business Kraków ‘s Olympic dream 2022 Visitnorway - an international web project delivered by a multinational team based in Kraków

Business Making Waves: eight years of local digital success Going global: Kraków as a top IT & outsourcing hub

Krakow living Kraków’s districts at glance Kraków and 21st century architecture

Kraków’s royal route: Photogallery Kraków & Warsaw: a tale of two capitals. Down in one? Discover the delights of Polish vodka Hidden treasures: off the beaten track A day in communist Kraków: in the footsteps of Lenin and Fidel Castro The seven wonders of Kraków

www.thinkkrakow.com

Shopping centres Cafes: Indulge in a Kraków style coffee

Biking around Kraków

Restaurants

Fitness first: stay fit in Kraków

Museums

Cool apartments at the right price: Kraków is the buyer’s market. For now.

Accommodation

Frania Cafe and Laundrette

Bars: Just a flavour from a never-ending list Kids entertainment: Also for grown-ups

Highlights

Events and festivals Networking Events

Plac Nowy and the heart of Kazimierz Dajwór street in Kazimierz

Tourism

Gyms and fitness

10 ways to get around Kraków: from horses to underground tramway

Is it easy for a foreigner to open small business in Kraków? Career opportunities in Kraków

We recommend

ARS: Kraków Artistic Cinema Centre Karma coffee roaster Schindler’s Factory museum ‘Pod Wawelem’: The Habsburg in a Polish beer tent Cupcake Corner Bakery Kraków’s lifeblood: the Wisła river Choco Cafe

Culture: Theatres, Music, Cinemas

Editorial features From tourism to technology: Kraków is open for international business by Michał Steckiw

Kraków 2022: The Olympic dream by Jens Markussen

Case study: Visitnorway travel portal delivered by a multinational team based in Kraków. by Angel Lopez Peiro and Russell Lack

Editorial Features

From tourism to technology:

Kraków is open for international business

by Michal J. Steckiw

Kraków is internationally

Union in 2004, Kraków

renowned for its heritage,

has also become one of the

culture and history. It was

country’s top destinations for

one of the first cities to be

Business Service Centres and

listed as the UNESCO World

IT industry, being listed in the

Heritage Site and has been

top 10 global list.

the main tourist destination in Poland for decades. Since

In 2012 the city was listed among the

Poland joined the European

most attractive global cities in a joined

report from the Economist and CITI Bank. International outsourcing, new business parks and a candidature for the Winter Olympics 2022 – Poland’s second biggest city is emerging as one of the fastest growing hot spots in Europe. Today it is the city’s potential for business that puts Kraków in the international spotlight, and there are clear signs that local authorities and businesses have the vision and ambition to support further

After returning from London, Michal explores how Kraków changed over the years.

development.and a long lasting effect.

International Kraków? As the main tourist destination in Poland, Kraków has seen millions of visitors exploring the historic streets around the Rynek square in the old town and around the Wawel Castle. In 2012 almost three million people visited Kraków from abroad. Together Modern office development along the Wisła River in Kraków’s city centre, with many international firms

www.thinkkrakow.com

with Warsaw, Kraków has been the

Editorial Features

“

Kraków became a hub for IT, business processes outsourcing and digital services. Poland’s Silicon Valley?

one city in Poland where you hear

serving international companies

design, mobile applications and

foreign languages mixed with Polish

relocating to Kraków. The new

bioinformatics.

on the streets.

projects are under development and the city council is considering new

In addition there is a high

In recent years, however, the city has

locations for office towers along

concentration of digital media

also started to attract a new kind of

Powstania Warszawskiego street.

(Poland’s largest web news portals, are based in Kraków) and an emerging

visitor: business professionals. More than 3000 foreigners are currently working in Kraków’s outsourcing sector.

Poland’s Silicon Valley? The explosion of mobile and webbased technologies has meant that Western technology companies need

opened branches in Kraków in the

to work for international companies

demand for skilled IT specialists,

like HSBC Bank, IBM, Motorola,

and Kraków has a great deal to offer.

Shell, UPS, Capgemini, Google,

There are over 8000 graduates from

State Street and Hitachi. Kraków has

IT related studies each year. Further

the second largest concentration of

advantages are relatively low costs of

foreign companies and A-class office

living and operating businesses plus

buildings in Poland, after Warsaw.

excellent flight connections to almost

The office real estate market is

every country in Europe.

a small outsourcing office in 2005;

Investors and entrepreneurs from

centre with access to a team of

“

traditional tech hubs in American With a number of strategic

Silicon Valley have shown interest

developments underway, the city’s

in Kraków, and many local software

business infrastructure is catching

development agencies now serve

up with that of the capital. There is

a number of clients from the US

a number of modern business parks around the city (Olsza, Zabłocie,

www.thinkkrakow.com

that a number of IT companies have

to look further to fill their growing

for A class office rental space.

Consequently, it is not surprising

These new residents have moved here

booming driven by growing demand

Cracovia Business Centre

start-up community.

Zabierzów, Płaszów and Bronowice)

and Western Europe. There is also significant growth in video game design and development, web

last decade, including Google, Cisco, Nokia, Motorola, Delphi and Making Waves. Making Waves, a Norwegian design and technology company, is an interesting case in point. They opened today, they are a large development experienced, qualified developers, IT specialists and web content producers serving clients in many European languages. One of their flagship projects, Noway’s official travel portal www.visitnorway. com, is delivered in nine languages

from Kraków by a multinational team

sports arena for large sporting events

of digital content specialists.

and exhibitions. Kraków has already been named the 2014 European

Last year FIFA chose to collaborate

City of Sports by the European

with Making Waves from their Zurich

Commission.

based head office. The success story of Making Waves shows that Kraków has become an attractive destination not

Kraków of the future Perhaps Kraków’s most exciting

just for outsourcing, but for setting

prospect is that the city council and

up offices with complex international

the Małopolska region, together

operations.

with a Slovakian partner, have

Further developments

applied to host the Winter Olympics 2022. Kraków will compete with

Apart from the growth in digital

Barcelona, Nice and Oslo to win the

technology related businesses,

first Olympic event for Poland. The

several other exciting developments

city’s 10 year investment strategy

are currently in process. The city is

was drawn up with the Olympics in

building a congress centre to meet

mind and includes a number of bold

the demand of the international

developments. The Małopolska region

conference industry. With a central

is modernising the train station and

location just across the river from

developing a brand new international

the Wawel castle, the centre has the

terminal at Kraków’s airport with a

potential of hosting both business

capacity of serving up to eight million

and academic events from around the

passengers annually.

world. The modern, sleek architecture

www.thinkkrakow.com

of the building stands in stark contrast

Now there are plans to construct the

to the historic old town. On the other

city’s first underground line that will

side of the city centre there is a cluster

connect the west and east parts of the

of cranes constructing a modern

city, the old town and the modern

“ Kraków deserves

to be a cosmopolitan city recognised for its business and human potential.

“

Editorial Features

business park around Olsza and the Aquapark leisure centre. By the end of 2013, the city also plans to launch a metropolitan rail network that will connect the Kraków city centre with the suburbs and surrounding towns. The Olympic village, high speed rail to the Tatra mountains and new hotels will follow. The investment strategy will further strengthen the Kraków brand internationally, and after the success of UEFA 2012 championship, Poland’s chance to win the Olympic bid is more likely than ever. We keep our fingers crossed. Kraków of 2022 deserves to be a real cosmopolitan international city recognised not only for its history and heritage but also for business and human potential.

Editorial Features

Kraków 2022:

The Olympic dream Kraków has fewer than one

by Jens Markussen

million inhabitants, but it

participate in almost 100 winter sport

were no mountains in Turin in 2006

sure knows how to dream like

competitions – from curling and ice

either, and that didn’t stop the Italians

one that has ten. The city’s

hockey to alpine and freestyle skiing –

from submitting a successful Olympic

wildest dream to date is the

their struggles reported to more than

bid. The competitions that take place

bid to host the 2022 Winter

230 television and radio broadcasters

in mountains would be organised

in 220 countries.

in Zakopane, Poland’s most famous

Olympics. Is this dream realistic? We have looked into the idea’s strengths and weaknesses, opportunities and threats. This project has a promising potential.

Jens, a Danish resident of Kraków investigates the pros and cons of Kraków’s Olympic dream. Is Poland going to host its first Olympic games in the near future?

The success of the UEFA EURO 2012 proved to the world that Poland has what it takes to organise a large-scale, international sporting event. While Kraków failed in its bid to become one of the hosts during the EURO 2012, the city is now determined instead to become an Olympic city. During the 16 days of the Olympic Games, around 3,000 athletes would come here to

www.thinkkrakow.com

winter destination 100 kilometres to But wait, I hear you say – there are

the south of Kraków, and in Chopok,

no mountains in Kraków! Well, there

across the border in Slovakia.

“The success of UEFA EURO 2012 proved to the world that Poland has what it takes to organise a large-scale, international sporting event

Kraków’s bid is officially supported by the Polish and Slovakian governments, the Marshall of the Małopolskie region, and, not least, by both the president of the Olympic Committee of Poland and his Slovakian counterpart. The event is an opportunity to further strengthen regional cooperation and development and contribute to promoting winter sports in the two countries. The Olympic legacy is also likely to have a positive impact on Kraków’s

“

international branding and a longlasting effect on international tourism, the so-called Barcelona ‘92 effect. So, what are the chances of Kraków’s dream coming true?

istock Photo: Winter Olympic Games in Vancouver, Canada, 2010

The international broadcasting centre and pressroom already has a dedicated venue at the top modern ICE conference centre that is due to open in 2014. As for the opening and closing ceremonies, initial speculation suggests that Wisła Stadium, located in Kraków and with a seating capacity of 33,000, would be the most suitable of existing venues.

www.thinkkrakow.com

Winter Olympics on the horizon?

Editorial Features

Kraków will face fierce competition with expected bids coming from Almaty, Beijing, Oslo, and Lviv.

The figure skating and short track

“

Editorial Features

The cross-country events are to be held in Zakopane, and the beautiful Tatra Mountains would form the spectacular backdrop for all biathlon and ski jumping competitions. Zakopane has already applied to host the 2019 FIS Nordic World Ski Championship, which would require either the construction of new facilities or reconstruction of existing venues. The slopes of Jurgowie, 20 km away, will see snowboarders race, jump and battle for medals.

Kraków Arena under construction , east of city center. When completed in 2014 the modern venue will host both large sports and entertainment events, including World Valleyball Championship.

2014). The curling teams, meanwhile,

The location for speed skating and

Poland that could meet the Olympic

Investments

would slide their stones and sweep

tracks for luge and bobsledding are

requirements for either of these

The Winter Olympics would

their brooms at another ice rink under

critical topics still to be addressed,

competitions. Therefore, they would

most certainly generate similar

construction.

as there are no existing arenas – and

have to be held in the Slovakian skiing

infrastructural improvements that

the building of appropriate venues

resort of Chopok, 150 kilometres

Warsaw and the other host cities of

Building a third ice rink for the ice

for these sports is traditionally the

south of Zakopane, the stumbling

EURO 2012 benefited from.

hockey games may be over the top

highest cost of any Winter Olympic

block being the fact that the IOC (the

Several investments are already well

for a city of Kraków’s size. An option

budget. In particular, the highly

International Olympic Committee)

underway, for example an upgrade

would be perhaps to construct an

specialised construction of a bobsled

prefers the events to be hosted by the

of the airport in Balice, Poland, just

arena with 15,000 seats in the nearby

track is a logistical and financial

same country.

outside of Kraków. There are plans

city of Katowice/Sosnowiec instead.

headache. According to recent

It is also likely that Slovakia, with

discussions, a possible location is

Add to this the need for up to three

including the city’s first underground

a considerably stronger ice hockey

Myślenice, 30 km south of Kraków.

Olympic Villages, and the dream

subway line.

tradition than Poland, would want a

The major obstacle in terms of venues,

becomes somewhat more distant.

piece of the action.

however, is the alpine and freestyle

events would unfold at the new ice arena (scheduled for completion in

disciplines. There is nowhere in

www.thinkkrakow.com

to improve public transportation

Editorial Features

“

A shortlist of candidate cities will be presented in the summer of 2014, before the IOC makes the final decision in July 2015

“

The Tatra Mountains in southern Poland: A skiing paradise

Another necessary investment is

probably be reimbursed through EU

will fight to improve the air quality in

an upgrade to the transportation

funds. Still, the cities involved would

the city. This is a positive legacy that

system between the three Olympic

be left with a hefty bill, notably for

would be enjoyed after the Olympic

host centres, most importantly a

infrastructure development and the

circus has left the region, and highly

motorway from Kraków to Zakopane

building of new arenas. Preliminary

appreciated by both citizens and

– the existing Zakopianka road

official estimates show expenses of

tourists.

is notoriously dreaded by drivers

around EUR 1.5 billion, a figure that is

heading south – and further to

likely to grow as the event approaches.

Slovakia, where the high Tatra

Having said that, it is not necessary to

Mountains provide a natural obstacle

go on a spending spree like 2014 hosts

– a clear advantage of the bid is the

for the construction of decent,

Sochi in Russia (Sochi has already

fact that the region has never hosted

fast roads between Poland and

spent EUR 37 billion – considerably

the Olympics before. It would be the

Slovakia. In addition, the regional

more than the cost of the much larger

first Olympics not only in the Tatra

and local governments are planning

summer Olympics held in Beijing

Mountains, but the first in Poland.

to construct a high-speed train that

2008 and London 2012). As we have

This is something the IOC pays great

would connect the future Olympic

seen, many venues are already being

attention to, and, according to the

Park (the AWF Park) with Kraków’s

constructed and the development of

organisers of the bid, is Krakow’s

railway station and Old Town.

the infrastructure is in process.

largest advantage.

Identifying venues and infrastructure

Environment

All things considered, we find it

Although Kraków faces fierce

justified to keep dreaming about the

the event is a different matter. It is

competition from cities such

Olympic flag flying over Kraków’s

expected that the IOC will reimburse

as Stockholm, Oslo, Beijing &

main square Rynek.

up to 40% of the costs and that 20%

Zhangjiakou, Almaty and Lviv one of

of the remaining budget will be

the biggest challenges lies within the

paid by Slovakia, corresponding to

city of Kraków itself: the thick layer

the percentage of events to be held

of smog that covers the city in the

there. Sponsors would make further

winter. The organisers of the bid have

contributions, and some costs would

made it known, however, that they

improvements is one thing; financing

www.thinkkrakow.com

Keep dreaming Mountains, finances and smog aside

Editorial Features

Visitnorway travel portal delivered by a multinational team in Kraków One of the global travel

9, just around the corner from

and work daily with adaptation and

industry´s most recognized

the Planty Park surrounding

localization of web content into 11

and celebrated sites is

the UNESCO-protected Old

different language versions.

Norway´s national tourism

Town.

This team of web editors are a truly international group, hailing from

portal – Visitnorway.com. by Angel Lopez Peiro

Can you actually learn about a country simply by visiting an internet site and choosing one of its many language versions? Angel explores how a multinationam team from Kraków delivers content for a well known travel portal.

What is less well known is that

In this elegant 19th century building

Austria, Spain, Denmark, Sweden,

many of the different language

are the Polish offices of leading

Belgium, Russia, Italy and of course

versions are delivered from

Norwegian digital consultancy

Poland. VisitNorway is a good

Kraków. Specifically, from the

Making Waves. Many of the 20 strong

example of how virtualization works

Content Services team are based here,

in practice, with a core team in Oslo,

newly renovated Ulica Asnyka

Norway producing English and Norwegian versions of the portal, and then a complex web of digital workflows managing daily tasks across the whole team. For local online campaigns in the different national markets, each Kraków-based editor also collaborates closely with the Marketing manager of Innovation Norway, located in the respective country they are responsible for.

Visitnorway portal editorial team in Kraków.

www.thinkkrakow.com

“

..a truly international group, hailing from Austria, Spain, Denmark, Belgium, Sweden, Russia, Italy and Poland.

How did it all start? In 2011 Innovation Norway, the Norwegian government’s official trade and tourism body, and owner of the Visitnorway portal, decided to outsource the content production activities that established early versions of the portal. Making Waves were the existing supplier of design and technology

“

services to the portal and took over the existing content team, transferring their employment. Whilst this covered English and Norwegian languages, there was also an agreement to establish the portal in a number of other key languages, and Kraków (where Making Waves already had an office) was chosen as the place to localize these services. Since then, the team has expanded to cover even more languages as well as some other day to day support activities for VisitNorway as well as a number of regional tourist bodies in Norway.

www.thinkkrakow.com

Editorial Features

The Kraków team

The editors hired by Making Waves

In May 2011 four editors from Poland,

experience and relevant backgrounds

Spain, Italy and Russia joined Making Waves and the Visitnorway project in Kraków. The following month an editor from Belgium came on board to be responsible for the French version, in October it was turn for an editor from Austria in charge of the German version, and in January and February 2012 two editors from Sweden and Denmark arrived. Finally a Dutch editor joined in September. Making Waves’ editors for Visitnorway are passionate about travel and digital communication

During the first months as the multilingual team in Content Services was being built, the translations and

“Visitnorway’s editors in Kraków create and update editorial content in many languages for the Norwegian portal.

“

www.thinkkrakow.com

text production that could not be yet handled internally were ordered either from a translation agency in Kraków or received directly from Innovation Norway in some cases. Today, all the translations and text productions needed for the 11 language editions are handled internally at Making Waves office in Kraków, including from this July, Russian language services.

to work in Kraków all have previous as web editors, journalists, linguists, PR and marketing management, graphic design, web strategy, international relations and tourism in Poland, or, in most cases, their country of origin. Some of the editors were found using recruitment services; others responded to online job advertisements and applied directly from their home countries, or locally in Kraków. Making Waves have managed to establish a truly multinational team with cultural and business experience that covers every major European market. Employing native editors who are not only digitally skilled, but passionate about travel, and sensitive to the needs of travellers from their own country has been a crucial part of the project´s success over the last three years. Innovation Norway renewed their commitment to Making Waves Content Services team for a further 2 years from the start of this year.

Work processes Visitnorway editors in Kraków create and update editorial content that is localized from the international version (Visitnorway.com). This includes creating campaign content for the local versions that promote regions of Norway, activities. Editors are also responsible for local versions of the media and press pages of the portal. The team of editors in Kraków not only works with text but also image selection, edition and optimization, tagging of pages, banners and video conversion and encoding. Every time a new page is created or modified on the .com version the team in Kraków is assigned a task to create or change the content in the same way on the local editions but localized to the different markets for tourism to Norway.

Editorial Features

fjord cruising, sightseeing, kayaking,

possible.

hiking in Fjord Norway, Northern Norway, Oslo and other regions of

Visitnorway evolves in Kraków

Norway.

The portal received a front page facelift in October 2012, which allows

Visitnorway can be accessed online in 12 different languages

When translating, the team in

promoting various destinations

Kraków uses Wordfast, a professional

and tourism activities. Each local

translation software that helps ensure

Innovation Norway office is able to

quality and consistency throughout

create targeted campaigns to specific

the website, and across different

audience segments. Campaigns can

languages. The editors in Kraków play

be multimarket, and therefore multi-

a significant role in helping to evolve

language, or designed for single

content in the international version.

markets. Campaigns are also seasonal.

Making Waves’ editors in Kraków

Winter campaigns on Visitnorway

work directly with Innovation Norway

editions may focus on activities such

regional offices located in London,

as visiting the northern lights, dog or

Moscow, New York, Paris, The

reindeer sledging, winter sports, or

Hague, Madrid, Milan, Stockholm,

promote special or unique places to

Copenhagen, Hamburg and Warsaw

stay. Summer campaigns generally

to deliver effective campaigns

promote summer activities such as

www.thinkkrakow.com

The editors for Visitnorway at Making

much more flexibility with new

Waves Polska are also skilled in search

embedded functionality such as full

engine optimization, an increasingly

screen slides, videos, maps. Since

important part of managing content

September 2013, new page templates

on the web. Each web editor

make it easier for local language

periodically attends trainings,

editors to optimize campaigns for

seminars and prestigious courses on

their individual markets. The new

translation, content management,

campaign template offers a richer

content strategy, SEO and web

interface, gives campaign partners

analytics in Poland and abroad. Web

better visibility and includes together

analytics reporting provides local

integration with the accommodation

markets with an important feedback

booking engine that is a part of the

on the performance of marketing

portal, so driving higher conversion

campaigns, as well as steering how

rates.

the site´s content should be tweaked and adapted to better meet the

The editors have also been working

needs shown in users’ behaviour and

on a new template for reporting web

interaction with the site.

traffic trends, in order to provide more detailed feedback on campaigns in the

Editors are also responsible for the lifecycle of content on the various language editions of the portal. The team of editors follow QA routines designed to maintain content quality and relevance at as high a level as

various international markets.

Business Making Waves: Eight years of local digital success by Angel Lopez Peiro feat. Hans Olav

Going global: Krak贸w as a top IT and outsourcing hub Interview with Andrew Hallam (ASPIRE)

Making money in Krak贸w - how friendly is the city to foreign entrepreneurs? by Angel Lopez Peiro

Career Opportunities in Krak贸w

Business

Making Waves:

Eight years of digital success from Kraków The Norwegian technology &

work just a stone’s throw from

design consultancy Making

Kraków’s beautiful Old Town.

Waves has been operating in since 2005. The Polish branch by Angel Lopez Peiro

has undergone significant growth regarding the number of employees and international projects. Making Waves Polska’s history

For insight on this matter, as well as understanding how the company was established and developed in Kraków, there is nothing better than talking to Hans Olav Hellem - Director of People & Processes at Making Waves Group. From 2008-2009, he held

Zyblikiewicza Street, then

the position of managing director at

transitioned to Wygoda

Making Waves Polska in Kraków. He

Street, and later moved to

lived in the city for over a year and

the Kraków Business Park in

keeps traveling to Kraków very often.

city centre. Since January 2013, the company has been located in its own fully renovated heritage building on Asnyka Street. As a result, approximately 80 employees

www.thinkkrakow.com

city can provide foreign companies.

began at an old building on

Zabierzów, 10 km from the

Making Waves showcases what the

Think Krakow: Why Poland and why Kraków? What led a Norwegian digital consultancy like Making Waves to open an office in Kraków, Poland?

Hans Olav Hellem

“

We saw huge potential after Poland joined the EU, as we expected Poland and Kraków would develop a lot.

“

Kraków with great success

Business

HANS OLAV: Back in the early

was to be a key country in receiving

the Rynek along Floriańska Street

Norwegian colleague Asbjørn Vølstad,

2000s, Making Waves was a small

contributions from the EU and

was very appealing. We learned

currently CTO at Making Waves,

company in Norway with limited

Norway. As a result, we decided to

about the city’s seemingly endless

interviewed the candidates. We took

funding. Our main concern was

arrange a meeting with the Norwegian

supply of universities, the lower costs

the candidates to Norway, where they

hiring skilled people and experts. We

embassy in Warsaw, whereupon we

as compared to Warsaw, and that

lived for three months in order to help

thought that it would be easier to find

met with a trade attaché.

people do not change jobs as often as

get to know the Norwegian culture.

customers in Norway than finding

Creating an outsourcing base for

in Warsaw. We agreed that Kraków

They then returned to Kraków.

skilled staff, especially developers.

Making Waves in Warsaw was our

would be a better fit should we move

Hiring skilled specialists in the IT

first idea. In autumn 2004, Innovation

to Poland and set up an outsourcing

We saw huge potential after Poland

sector was difficult in Norway in the

Norway, part of the Norwegian

base. We spent some time looking at

joined the EU, as we expected Poland

period 2002-2005.

Embassy, provided us with a three-

buildings and office space.

would develop a lot. Not only was it easier to hire exceptionally skilled

day tour of Warsaw. It was my first Why did we look at Poland? The

time in a former Eastern Bloc country.

We had several concerns in Kraków.

and well-educated IT developers in

truth is that everything started when

Warsaw was much bigger than we

The buildings were in poor condition

Kraków than in Norway, they were

we read a magazine article about

expected, much more expensive than

outside of Rynek, and we wanted to

also less expensive to employ. Today,

what we initially thought (real estate

work in a building near Market Square

Making Waves is one of the most

prices were too high for us), and

because we wanted to be part of the

sought-after employers within our

we learned that people in Warsaw

development of the city. Another

generally change jobs quite often.

key issue back then was the lack of

Poland. It indicated that Norwegian companies coming to operate in Poland would receive funding from the Norwegian government. Poland

“ We picked Kraków

for its appealing atmposphere, big supply of universities and lower costs compared to Warsaw.

“

www.thinkkrakow.com

flight connections between Kraków The embassy then suggested we

and Oslo: To fly between Oslo and

consider Kraków, where their embassy

Kraków required a connecting flight

staff knew some real estate agents.

in Warsaw. Norwegian began offering

So we took the train from Warsaw to

flights between Kraków and Oslo in

Kraków. When we first arrived and

late 2005. That was great news for our

entered the Rynek (Market Square),

company.

we felt this city seemed more suitable for us. The Palace of Culture in

We put an ad in Kraków’s local

Warsaw did not feel friendly, whereas

newspapers, and we hired our first

the walk from the railway station to

three employees in Poland. My

sector in Kraków. This is in a large

established in Kraków. In addition,

several interesting projects for Polish

part due to our company’s culture, our

the city is far more foreign-friendly

customers: Vattenfall Poland, Bank

dedication to being “one company”

now than eight years ago; there is

BZ WBK as well as Warsaw City Hall.

across borders, our terms of

bilingual signage all around the city

We experienced many challenges with

employment, and our positive people

and many more people speak English.

the renovation of our new office on Asnyka Street. First of all, we had to

philosophy. T.K.: What was Kraków like

T.K.: Would establishing a

face the bureaucracy – it took a long

when Making Waves settled

company in Kraków now be

time to get permits from the city’s

here? How has the city changed

more expensive than back in

authorities. Another challenge was

since then?

2005?

the business culture with suppliers. Corporate integration also faced

H.O.: Back in 2005, Kraków was a

H.O.: Today we could never begin in

a challenge: At the beginning, the

different city: there were fewer cars,

Kraków like we did then, as we were a

Kraków team felt like a B team

fewer flight connections, and it was

very small company and the operating

and the fact that the A team was in

visibly an Eastern European city.

costs are higher in Kraków now.

Oslo did not help a one-company

Now, however, it looks more like a

Now it is harder to keep employees,

vision to develop in the Polish office.

Western city, if you take into account

as turnover rate in the sector is very

Fortunately, we successfully overcame

how people dress, the upscale Galeria

high.

this situation over time. Our teams in Oslo and Kraków are now more

Krakowska department stores, all the restaurants, the investment,

T.K.: What are the main

the infrastructure and the business

challenges Making Waves has

development going on.

faced in Kraków since moving

In the past, some our Scandinavian

here?

clients requested that projects utilise

integrated than in the past.

project managers and consultants who

People here are now more proud and confident of the development of the

H.O.: We did not succeed in our

spoke Norwegian. However, unlike

city and the country. In addition,

pursuit of the Polish market because

many foreign companies in Kraków,

Poles with experience from abroad or

our price rates were too high for

the Making Waves team in Kraków is

foreign markets began moving back

local market. In many cases, price

not simply an outsourcing resource.

to Poland and join the local work

was the main factor for winning

force, thanks to the fact that there are

clients. We lost some money at the

Instead, we focus on the competence

now many more foreign companies

beginning, although we worked on

and availability of highly skilled staff

www.thinkkrakow.com

“ Kraków is far more

foreign-friendly now than eight years ago; there is bilingual signage all around the city and many more people speak English.

“

Business

“

In Kraków we can have access to highly skilled people. We can always choose the best ones among many candidates when we recruit employees.

who can build solutions and services

idea before moving to Kraków. We

T.K.: What are the plans for

to our clients from around the world.

developed a new strategy in 2010

Making Waves operations in

It is very common now that even

that had the motto ‘A great place

Kraków?

teams based in Norway are comprised

to work’. Now, at an operational

of non-Norwegians. Luckily for us,

level, both offices are important: the

H.O.: Making Waves wants to expand

clients are now more accustomed to

Choice Hotels, FIFA, Visitnorway

to other markets. Kraków will be our

the international environment and

and Visitoslo projects are run from

hub for services to other markets

multinational teams, so it is easier to

Kraków.

around the world. The company will

explain to them that the project team

grow faster in Poland than in Norway, In Kraków we can have access to

and our goal is to double the size of

highly skilled and specialized people.

the company by the end of 2014. In

T.K.: What has Kraków offered

We can always choose the best people

principle, our priority for the Kraków

to Making Waves throughout

from among numerous candidates

office is hiring system developers, but

the last 8 years?

when we recruit employees. Another

we are also planning to hire strategy

plus of working in Kraków is that we

consultants and designers.

is based both in Kraków and Oslo.

H.O.: Kraków has made us an

have become a more multicultural

international company. We are able

company. Our Polish office only

These are recruitment processes that

to go with our offer to other countries

has Polish employees but also has

have already begun. See our job offers

now, we have an advantage over our

staff from Belgium, Austria, Italy,

on makingwaves.com

Norwegian competitors, and we have

Spain, Sweden, Denmark, Norway,

more chances to gain international

Netherlands, Israel and Russia.

We are looking at companies in

“

contracts. We now have a Content Services Department that delivers

We feel a sense of accomplishment

content in nine languages for the

with everything we have achieved in

Visitnorway portal, which in Norway

Kraków. Going to Kraków and seeing

would have been quite difficult to

the office on Asnyka Street and the

achieve. As a result of our work

people working there makes me proud

in Kraków, we have learned many

and happy. Norwegian employees are

lessons.

very happy about Kraków and our office here and of course they like the

In 2005 outsourcing was the main

www.thinkkrakow.com

city and love to come here often.

Poland and the Polish market, and I believe that in the near future we will be more present on the Polish market as the Polish economy is growing. TK: What are the main differences between Oslo and Kraków in the business environment regarding public administration?

Business

“

Red tape is one of the biggest differences between Norway and Poland. In Poland business processes are more bureaucratic.

“

www.thinkkrakow.com

H.O.: Red tape is one of the biggest

Furthermore, there is no English

their beautiful gardens, shopping

differences between Norway and

service at the administrative level for

in small family-run independent

Poland. In Poland there is a stamp

foreign companies in Kraków.

shops (there are not as many in

culture: stamps are required on

In Norway there are different

Oslo), biking around Kraków and

every document. The agreements are

criteria for choosing suppliers in

enjoying the cultural life in Old Town

more complex and need to be signed.

a competition or bidding process;

and Kazimierz. I particularly miss

Because of this, all the business

price is one of them, experience and

walking down the Wisła boulevards,

processes are more bureaucratic.

ability to deliver are others, whereas

Old Podgórze and along the Kładka

in Poland price is usually the main

Bernatka pedestrian bridge. I used to

factor.

cycle to Nowa Huta, a district I find

In addition, bureaucrats in Kraków

very interesting because of its very

are not as friendly as in Norway, they don’t smile, and they still lack the

T.K.: Since you moved back to

distinctive architecture. I must say

customer service approach which is

Oslo, what do you miss the most

that everywhere in Kraków I felt safe

more common in Western Europe.

about living in Kraków?

and free to get around.

In comparing Norway and Poland in this area, there is a lack of electronic

H.O.: I miss the city life in Kraków;

alternatives and e-services that would

walking on the charming old streets,

make bureaucracy faster and easier.

going to restaurants and eating in

Business

Going Global:

Kraków as top IT and outsourcing hub.

Angel Lopez Peiro interviews Andrew Hallam from ASPIRE

This year, Kraków entered the top 10 of Tholon’s Established Outsourcing Destinations in the world for the first time, confirming its place as a leading outsourcing centre not only in Europe but on a global scale. The city’s IT and business process services industry accounts for 27,000 people

In 2013 Kraków advanced to the top 10 global business processing outsourcing destinatinations.

employed in 85 outsourcing companies in the city, and one of seven workers in the city’s private sector. 11% of the employees are foreigners, which gives an idea of the international scope of the business processes delivered from Kraków.

Think Kraków interviewed Andrew Hallam, founder and general secretary of ASPIRE (Association of IT & Business Process Services Companies in Poland). ASPIRE aims to promote and develop opportunities within IT and business process services. How did Kraków make it to the top 10 destinations in the world

With the aim of analysing the current

for outsourcing?

situation and peeking into the future, ANDREW HALLAM: Good fortune and momentum. There were a number of fortuitous events, stretching back many years, which helped to establish Kraków globally. For example, BP sold a major project to IBM, and International Paper another one to Capgemini, and this meant that Kraków had two global outsourcing projects by the year 2000.

www.thinkkrakow.com

Business

“ Kraków has more in common with Dublin than with Wrocław or Gdańsk. This is why it is in the top 10 global list.

Simultaneously, and the city

Kraków is the location. With Poland’s

only within our sector, not with other

authorities deserve to be credited for

accession to the EU and the open

industries. We have a lower cost base

this, the first special economic zone

skies policies, a bunch of airlines

here, 30% lower than in Warsaw for

was created here in 1999, allowing

started to operate into Kraków Balice

instance.

Motorola to establish operations in

Airport which made it easy to travel to

Dublin, as a contrast, has the

the city.

Kraków from the rest of Europe. The

disadvantages of a capital city even

migration of Poles in Western Europe

though Ireland is a small country.

Big brands attract other brands.

spread the message – Poles were

Nevertheless, Dublin has many

Existing businesses became natural

employed abroad and did a good job.

of Kraków’s features and a capacity to attract talent from

ambassadors and functioned as a testament that it is safe to locate

Companies are often reluctant to

abroad. In this sense, Kraków

to Kraków. What I call Kraków’s

relocate to a new place, but they have

has more in common with Dublin

“clientability” is also connected to the

to believe it is possible to maintain

than with Wrocław or Gdansk. Only

city’s legacy: universities with good

quality. We are developing a new

cities and locations have this ability

reputations, thousands of students,

paradigm in Kraków for the industry.

to attract – we cannot talk about

the market square, the old town and

Once you have operated here for two

countries.

the tourism infrastructure.

years and it works, and the quality of the people you employ here is really

How can Kraków reach Dublin

There were also local IT

high, it becomes possible to think

and enter the top 5?

companies here early on, before

of more complex processes that you

the arrival of large, foreign

can move to Kraków. Transactional

A.H.: The difference with Dublin

outsourcing companies. Comarch,

processes were moved to India but

was much bigger in the past than it is

for example, a Polish IT company

more complex processes relocated to

now. Ireland suffered a lot from the

founded in 1995, has developed

Kraków.

financial crisis in a way that Poland escaped. Over the last few years,

“

internationally by drawing talent from

Cracovia Business Centre: one of the largest A class office space complex in Kraków centre.

www.thinkkrakow.com

AGH (the Academy of Science and

The city has many of the qualities

Dublin has dropped from 4th to 9th

Technology).

of a capital city without some of the

position, whereas Kraków has gone

disadvantages of a capital city. We are

from 17th to 10th – so the evolution

competing for talent in Kraków but

trends of Kraków and Dublin are

Another thing that has benefited

Business

as does the fact that businesses are

recover at some point, but I am also

taking the lead in Kraków. We are not

sure that Kraków can overtake Dublin

lobbying but have rather established

with time.

an association around self-help and mutual support.

has many of “ theKraków qualities of a capital city without some of the disadvantages of a capital city...

We need to move forward and reach

Olsza: a district of Kraków with many outsourcing firms and considerable office space development

out to stakeholders. We need to

We present opportunities instead of

raise awareness of the industry and

asking others to make them happen.

to grow in terms of quality and key

present the opportunity as a common

Promoting the industry and leading

selling.

vision. The advantage of Dublin is its

the industry: this is unique. One

proximity to London and better flight

reason it works effectively in Kraków

connections. Kraków needs more

is that the institutions are old and

effective connections with cities like

well established. It would benefit the

Istanbul, Paris, New York, London,

industry to cooperate even more with

Prague and Dubai. There is no direct

the city and local society.

Kraków Business Park in Zabierzów, on the outskirts of the city

I think sustainability is how we can

www.thinkkrakow.com

industry? A.H.: I first came here in 1988 working on TV news with Polish

in terms of job offers in

people in London. In 1989 I came

Kraków?

back with Sky News to make a documentary about a returning Polish

regulating market where supply meets

A.H.: We expect an increase of 20-

solider, for the 50th anniversary of the

demand. We are currently running

25% in the number of employees per

start of World War II.

out of office spaces and this becomes

year. Over the last couple of years,

opportunity for real estate developers.

companies in our industry have

It was so different from UK; it

experienced a growth of 25% new

was very attractive and I was very

staff.

attracted by the people. At that time, Kraków had hardly any public life

compared to many cities

How long have you been in the

What is the growth perspective

overtake Dublin. We have a self-

Kraków is very competitive

Treimorfa tower & office complex, to be completed in 2015. Source: Verity Development

How did you end up in Kraków?

around Christmas, while I was

connection with London Heathrow, for example.

“

opposite. I believe that Dublin will

in Europe. The momentum I

We have an ecosystem that supports

but there was a rich private life that

mentioned earlier makes a difference,

complexity and this will enable us

I found very appealing. I moved here with my wife in 1995. We built a house

Business

“

The city administration should support Kraków in becoming a more international city.

and then I found my way; I started

People working in the industry expect

working for the British Chamber

continuously higher rewards, but if

If we translate this into actions:

of Commerce and then I founded

they went to other parts of Europe

There ought to be a master

ASPIRE, where I have been working

they would understand that they

plan to build a central business

since 2006.

are lucky to be here. It could also be

district, which would facilitate

worth noting that Kraków is not more

locating people.

How has the international

expensive than other Polish cities.

perception of Kraków changed

Some companies are trying to pull

Transport infrastructure – there is

over the last decade, in terms of

out the most talented, highly qualified

a good public transport network in

business investments?

people for management positions

Kraków, but it could be developed to

in other locations in Europe, even

take into account the needs of people

A.H.: “Clientability” is what the city

though it would be cheaper to keep

who commute to work at the big

has developed. Kraków has become

them here.

business centres.

whilst retaining its own character,

If you were elected mayor of

We need to improve the airport. I

atmosphere and heritage. I think it is

Kraków what would you change

am aware that they are working on

a personal rather than an institutional

in the city?

it already with the construction of

“

more attractive and continental

the new terminal, but we also need

thing.

www.thinkkrakow.com

A.H.: Focusing on the business

to improve the connections from the

How have salaries, and salary

sector, the most important thing

airport.

expectations, changed within

is that the industry is included

the industry in Kraków?

in the vision for Kraków. We

The city administration should

A.H.: If you look for a trend, you

are providing high quality jobs and

support Kraków in becoming

can see that salaries are rising in line

delivering value to the city, even

a more international city. We

with inflation and expectations, but

more than the tourism sector. 64%

need more English in the paperwork

obviously at certain times there is a lot

of employees in our industry are

processes.

of demand, and the offered salary will

graduates from local universities. The

be higher.

City Council needs to recognise our

For too long, Kraków was

role and fund certain initiatives.

fading away, and this is still

reflected in the mentality of

built on its legacy. However, the

this can benefit the city. Whether the

many people. Local people are not

City Council needs to understand

Winter Olympics is the right event

necessarily aware of how Kraków is

its role as one of many players in

I don’t know, but everything that is

getting an international image. We

Kraków, not the most important one.

about building experience can benefit the city and the industry. The 2012

need to recover a degree of confidence in the potential of the city from

What do you like the most about

UEFA EURO cup in Poland and

our mayor, and promote Kraków

living in Kraków?

Ukraine was a great opportunity for

like to see more promotion of the

A.H.: I love the atmosphere and

that Kraków was not selected as a

dragon as a symbol of Kraków, for

the way the city is laid down, so

venue. Still, Kraków’s role as team

example. It is a powerful image and

that everything radiates from the

base camp was very successful.

we can draw out the symbolism to

market square. When I arrived here

build a future.

for the first time very few people

How do you see Poland’s

had a telephone and instead the

economic future?

We also need to organize more

market square Rynek functioned as

international festivals; most of the

a communication centre. Kraków

A.H.: I think Poland’s future is

festivals in Kraków are too provincial

is a living museum with a living

bright, mainly

and only of interest for Polish people.

history.

location between Russia and

Kraków could learn from Edinburg

The statue of Adam Mickiewicz on

Germany. Geopolitically it is great

how to promote what is happening

the market square, for example, is not

to be on the border of the EU – also in

in the city. The organizers of festivals

only a statue but a key meeting point

terms of trade with the United States.

here have a lot to learn. Many local

for people.

However, this can also bring dangers

because of its

in the future as it happened in the

cultural institutions take their audience for granted; they think it is

What do you think about

95% Catholic white Polish but it is in

Kraków bidding for Winter

fact much more diverse.

Olympics? Is it a worthy

If the rest of Poland can

investment?

learn from Kraków in terms

www.thinkkrakow.com

past.

of international success, the

I love the potential of the city.

from Edinburg, for example, how to promote what is happening in the city.

such an experience and it was a pity

positively but aggressively. I would

Kraków is a work in progress

“ Kraków could learn

“

Business

A.H.: I think sporting events like

country will thrive economically.

The dragon: could Kraków’s landmark legend become a symbol of the city’s new economic performance?

Business

Making money in Kraków – how friendly is the city to foreign entrepreneurs?

by Angel Lopez Peiro

One might think that a

business ideas in Kraków.

parents. I worked as a cook in the

difficult foreign language, a

Not everyone, however, is

Argentinian-Czech restaurant Diego i

different business culture,

deterred by challenges and

Bohumil until I decided it was time to

rents and bureaucratic

many have managed to start

invest our savings and start my own

procedures are reasons to

successful, local businesses.

business. In August 2012 one of my

prevent foreign entrepreneurs

A good example is 34-year-

from developing their

old Alejo Torreblanca Leiva from Chile. He an experienced chef who opened the Spanish

Valparaiso restaurant in Kazimierz quarter

restaurant Valparaíso, named after his home region, in the trendy quarter of Kazimierz in August 2012. How did you end up in Kraków? I met my wife, who is Polish, when I lived in Barcelona. I had been living in Spain since 1998. We moved to Kraków in March 2012, when we were expecting a baby, so that we would be closer to her

www.thinkkrakow.com

dreams came true when Valparaíso started serving Spanish food and wine. How would you describe the process of opening a business in Kraków, compared to Spain or Chile? It is cheaper, and now it is also easier, to start a business in Poland compared to Spain. Everything is expensive in Spain, even small repairs and improvements for your restaurant. However, in Spain it takes less time to recover the initial investment, if the restaurant is going well – or at least this was the case

Business

What is your worst experience

until recently. How friendly is Kraków for

in dealing with Polish

In Chile running this kind of business

foreigners? How friendly is

authorities?

would involve more expenses because

Kraków for running a small

you need to spend a lot of money

business?

I don’t have many complaints about

on safety systems (alarms, cameras,

Kraków is very friendly, both for

the Polish authorities, although I

security officers and insurance).

foreigners and for running a small

experienced a corruption case once.

business. I have never had any

A health inspector who came to my

How did you overcome the

problems here. I guess it depends on

restaurant for an inspection made up

language barrier?

the sector but at least in the hotel and

a fault (related to one of my freezers

catering sector, Kraków is a great city.

being open at a particular moment) and forced me to pay her PLN 150 to

Luckily my wife could help me with the paperwork and other

Of course the success of your business

administrative tasks.

in Kraków will depend on your

avoid an official fine.

philosophy and way of doing things.

What are the main cultural

Would you have managed to

Generally, in Poland things work fast,

differences between Chile, Spain

open your restaurant without

much faster than in Spain and Chile.

and Poland that forced you to

your Polish wife?

People here are committed and work

adjust your living style and way

hard.

of working?

difficult without her. The language is

I think one of the main challenges for

As I said, things generally work

definitely one of the biggest obstacles

those who want to start a business in

much faster here than in Spain and

for foreign entrepreneurs in Kraków.

the city is the high rents, especially

Chile, and employees are committed,

In order to handle the paperwork and

in the Old Town and in the trendiest

responsible and honest. I would also

commercial activities, you need help

areas of Kazimierz such as Plac Nowy.

like to point out that people in Poland

from people who speak Polish. Even

Those who own commercial property

do not complain as much as in Spain.

writing the menu on the blackboard

in the touristic areas are making very

is a challenge without my Polish

good business.

It would have been much more

assistants.

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A problem I encounter when I serve the lunch menu is that some of my

Business

customers are in a hurry and I want my guests to enjoy their food and wine calmly, without rushing. How do you promote the restaurant in Kraków? I promote the restaurant through our website and above all, through our Facebook page. But the best promotion is to cook well and offer a good service, so that your customers say positive things about the restaurant after eating here. Most people come to my restaurant because a friend recommended it to them. I also had some unexpected and free advertising when Wojciech Nowicki, a renowned food critic, came to the restaurant last September and wrote a flattering review for Gazeta.pl. In the following weeks, the restaurant experienced a dramatic increase of customers even if the effect was not long-lasting. Do you meet up with other foreigners, Spaniards or South Americans in Kraków?

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beautiful town. It is great to be able

Olympics and how do you think

I meet with other foreigners,

to combine the beauty and calm of

it would affect a small business

Spaniards and South Americans from

Wieliczka with Kraków, where I spend

like yours?

time to time, in the weekly language

most of my time due to work. I think it is a great idea. Kraków would

exchange meeting called Café Madrid and the Latin music club El Sol, but I

If you were elected mayor

definitely benefit from organising

also have friends from other countries

of Kraków, what would you

such an important event as the Winter

like Italy, Portugal and Angola.

change in the city?

Olympics.

What do you enjoy the most

I would try to solve the air pollution

Barcelona is a modern city and a

about living in Kraków?

issue – sometimes when I walk

popular tourist destination thanks

around Kraków there is a strong

to the promotion related to the 1992

One of them is the tranquillity.

smell of coal, and when I drive from

Summer Olympics. Hosting the

Kraków is a calm and peaceful city,

Wieliczka to Kraków in the winter I

Olympics would increase the number

especially compared to Barcelona. I

can see a thick layer of pollution over

of visitors to Kraków from around

also like that things work well here

the city.

the world and this would result in increased revenue for hotels, bars,

and that Polish people are committed to what they do.

What do you think about

clubs and, of course, restaurants like

I live in Wieliczka, which is a very

Kraków bidding for Winter

Valparaíso.

Business

Career opportunities in Krakรณw Here is a sample listing of typical positions available in Krakรณw for English speaking professionals in the digital industry. With a growing number of international companies operating from Krakรณw, there are plenty of work opportunities for both Polish residents and expats. The IT and business processing outsourcing sectors offer a wide range of positions for professionals speaking English or other languages. Many jobs do not require Polish language skills. When looking for a job in Krakรณw, a good place to start is of course the internet and websites such as Linkedin.com, recruitment agencies like devonshire.pl, cpljobs.pl and HAYS, or the local site pracuj.pl (only in Polish but with ads and some information in English). For opportunities within the IT industry, it is a good idea to monitor the job boards at companies like wirtualnemedia.pl, interaktywnie.com, ASPIRE jobs and makingwaves.pl. Making Waves regularly employs web professionals from Poland and abroad. Their Krakรณw office currently has staff from the UK, Austria, Italy, Spain, Belgium, the Netherlands, Sweden, Norway, Denmark and Russia.

www.thinkkrakow.com

User experience & Graphic design Graphic Designer at: Making Waves

Interaction Designer

Project Management .NET Developer at: Making Waves

Junior Developer in Extended Support team

at: Making Waves

Web Technology

Web Content Services

Sharepoint Developer at: Making Waves

Senior .NET Developer at: Making Waves

Front-end Developer at: Making Waves

Web Developer at: Making Waves

English - German Translator & Copywriter at: Making Waves

Native English Web Copywriter at: Making Waves

Dutch Web Editor at: Making Waves

Swedish Native Web Editor - Freelace Contract at: Making Waves

Senior Project Manager at: Making Waves

Tourism Kraków’s royal route: A photogallery Kraków & Warsaw: A tale of two capitals by Michał Steckiw

Down in one? Discover the delights of Polish vodka by Anja Wedberg

Top 5 hidden treasures: Kraków off the beaten track by Jens Markussen

A day in Communist Kraków: In the footsteps of Lenin and Fidel Castro by Angel Lopez Peiro

Vegard recommends: The seven wonders of Kraków by Vegard Tverberg

www.thinkkrakow.com

Tourism: The royal route

Tourism

Kraków and Warsaw:

A tale of two capitals

by Michal J. Steckiw

From castles to skyscrapers,

to Warsaw to explore Poland’s

latest Ernst & Young ranking (2012

Poland’s two major cities

vibrant, colourful and

Globalization Index), Poland is now

offer an entirely different

cosmopolitan capital and to

the 27th most globalized economy,

experience. Enjoy Kraków

see how the country developed

surpassing even Italy, South

for its bars and restaurants

from the ashes of War World

Korea and Japan. So now a closer

located on magical old

II to become one of the world’s

streets below the city’s gothic

new globalized economies.

and renaissance heritage landmarks. Jump on a train

In many countries, one can find two major metropolitan cities competing with each other in the In many countries, one can find two major metropolitan cities competing with each other in the areas of economic activity, human development, cultural heritage, and internationalization: Barcelona and Madrid (Spain), Montreal and Toronto (Canada), Melbourne and Sydney (Australia), Berlin and Frankfurt (Germany), and Moscow and St Petersburg (Russia). Poland and its key cities have become

The National Stadium in Warsaw, built for the EUFA 2012 championship

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more globalized. According to the

examination of the branding and development of Poland’s two major cities becomes even more interesting: Warsaw (capital and economic centre of Poland) and Kraków (former capital and seat of Polish royalty). Kraków was the capital of Poland until the mid-17th century, when King Jan III Waza moved his seat to Warsaw. Kraków, however, remained the main royal residence, the place where all monarchs were crowned and buried in the royal cathedral on Wawel Hill. Warsaw flourished in subsequent centuries, whereas the role of Kraków, still referred to as Royal Capital City of Kraków, diminished. The political, economic and cultural heart of the

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Kraków is intimate, charming and bohemian. Warsaw became cosmopolitan, monumental and modern.

exploded even further. Both cities

After War World II, Kraków became

took different development directions.

Poland’s second-largest city, the only

“

nation shifted to the new capital.

one that did not suffer destruction

Kraków focused on renovating

following the invasions of Germany

its historic districts and heritage

and Soviet Union. Kraków’s Old

landmarks, strengthening

Town was listed as a UNESCO

its academic centres, and

World Heritage Site. The city

developing strong IT and digital

became the cultural and academic

industries.

heart of Poland, at the time when Warsaw was rising to life from the

It was referred to as the tourist and

ashes of destruction.

cultural heart of Poland, home of the former Pope John Paul II and the

Rynek - the main market square in Kraków

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religious soul of the nation. In the

soulless city similar to many

1990s, local authorities and elites

in the former Soviet Union. It

focused on the city’s existing strong

became the colourful, vibrant

brand and its position rather than

cosmopolitan capital.

visioning its future development.

When Poland embarked on its

At the same time, Warsaw became

transformation from communism

one of the fastest growing

to a market economy, the capital

economies of any city in Europe.

of Warsaw was still quite a grey,

Its skyline was filled with a range of

soulless city, similar to many in

modern skyscrapers, and the city was

the former Soviet Union. Since the

flooded with international companies

fall of the communism, both cities

and expats. Thus, the character of

have experienced an enormous

Poland’s most globalized metropolis

transformation; ever since Poland

has been transformed.

joined the EU, investment has

“ Warsaw became one of the fastest growing economies of any city in Europe.

“

The royal castle on the Wawel Hill in Kraków Poland’s Acropolis

Warsaw used to be a grey,

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The biggest advantages Kraków holds are its compact size, beauty of its architecture, its reputation around the world. The city is known for its restaurants and bar scene, its relatively low cost of living and visiting, and the flood of young people coming to study each year. Warsaw, however, remains the financial heart both of Poland and the Central and Eastern European region. It offers the best opportunities for virtually every industry, especially for international companies operating in the region. Warsaw became a colourful, dynamic and cosmopolitan city, whereas Kraków remained first and foremost a traditional Polish city with aspirations to be recognized around the world for its advantages in tourism, sports, IT and outsourcing. Warsaw is the first region in Left: Warsaw’s Old Town was rebuilt after World War II. Warsaw’s city centre is the economic heart of Poland and the financial centre of East and Central Europe. Right: Central Warsaw is dominated by the Palace of Culture and Science - a “gift” from Stalin to communist Poland

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Warsaw is the political, economic and financial heart of Poland.

Tourism

“

Poland to have been excluded

skyscrapers, and a large suburban

from EU development funds,

area.

as the region’s GDP per capita surpassed the 75% EU average.

On the other hand, some of the

The construction of a second subway

reasons why international investors

line in Warsaw is leading to a rise

choose to come to Kraków include

Warsaw

in the number of old and neglected

the range of real estate opportunities,

The Warsaw Uprising Museum

buildings being revitalized.

an expanding business services and IT sector, the emerging digital start-

“

Kraków remains Poland’s main destination for leisure and cultural tourism.

It is probably the most American

up community, and its cutting edge

looking city in Europe, with wide

research facilities. In the digital/

streets criss-crossing the city, a

IT area, most companies operating

typical downtown concentration of

in Kraków focus on international customers, whereas the ones in Warsaw operate mostly on the Polish

Kraków’s Old Town: A UNESCO World Heritage Site.that attracts over seven million tourists every year

Lazienki Royal Park and Wilanów Palace Downtown and the Palace of Culture The National Stadium Nightlife at Foksal Street Museum of the history of Polish Jews

Warsaw is associated with a fast-

Kraków

growth, economic development,

The royal route to Wawel Castle

progress and its increased cultural

Kazimierz, the Jewish medieval quarter

impact on the country. Its cultural

Schindler’s Factory Museum

output surpasses that of Kraków,

Wieliczka Salt Mine

yet Kraków remains Poland’s main destination for leisure and cultural tourism.

www.thinkkrakow.com

The Old Town, the Royal Castle and Nowy Swiat Street

market.

paced life, modern architecture,

Key things to see and explore in...

Kraków nightlife in the Old Town, Kazimierz and Old Podgórze The ‘Kładka’ Bridge and the banks of the Wisła River

Tourism

Down in One? Discover the delights of Polish vodka. Some of the finest vodka

of the vodka menus you find in

in Poland to see that vodka is an

in the world is produced in

most bars can be perplexing.

integral part of Polish culture, history

Poland, and yet, whilst just

Let us help you find your feet

and society. It is the obvious choice

about everyone has heard

in the vodka wilderness.

of drink at any social gathering, most shops stock an astonishing variety of

of Smirnoff, Finlandia and by Anja Wedberg

Absolut, many would probably

The origins of vodka may be obscure,

brands and every self-respecting bar

struggle to name a Polish

but it is clear that it has been

has a separate vodka menu.

brand. For visitors, the variety

produced in Poland for over 500 years. Large-scale vodka production

So where does one start? We went to

began at the end of the 16th century,

Kraków’s eminent Wódka bar and café

initially at Kraków.

to learn from the experts.

Today, Poland is one of the largest

My first choice at the Wódka bar is a

vodka producers in the world (along

shot of Zubrówka Palona, a variety

with Russia, Lithuania and Ukraine).

of Poland’s biggest export brand.

One of the main differences between

While standard Zubrówka is distilled

Russian and Polish vodka is that the

with bison grass that gives it a pale

former is usually made from potato,

amber colour and a slightly sweet

the latter most often from grains such

flavour, the less known Zubrówka

as rye. Polish vodkas can be further

Palona is a brown vodka with more

divided into clear and flavoured

than a hint of cherry, almond and

varieties.

caramel.

You don’t have to spend many hours

“Down in one, is that how to do it?” I ask Maciej, bartender and vodka

www.thinkkrakow.com

Tourism

connoisseur. Maciej looks at me with

Goldwasser is far from the only

Among the fruity varieties on offer,

horror. “No! Not this one!” and goes

extraordinary experience in Polish

pear is particularly recommended.

on to explain that the flavoured ones

vodka bars. An interesting, to say

are meant to be enjoyed by sipping -

the least, drink is the well-known

Of course there is plenty to discover

Established: 2004

only some types of vodka, notably the

Mad dog – a layered shot made with

in terms of clear vodka, too. The

clear ones, are best consumed in one.

raspberry syrup, clear vodka and

connoisseur will not miss the

Number of vodkas on offer: around 100

I have to say this is quite a relief to

tabasco. By all means, please note that

opportunity to indulge in Chopin

hear.

the Mad dog is not something that

(one of few potato-based Polish

can be ”enjoyed by sipping”. Bottoms

vodkas), the new “white whiskey”

Zubrówka Palona is perfectly balanced

up with this one – the soothing

Kozuba or Maciej’s personal favourite,

with a clear but not overpowering

raspberry juice will save you from the

a shot of unfiltered Beldevere, served

scent of cherry. As for standard

initial shock of the tabasco. Another

ice cold in a frosty glass for a modest 9

Zubrówka, the most common way

exhilarating concoction is Krupnik

złotys (3,5 cl).

to enjoy it is the cocktail Tatanka,

z kawe – honey vodka and coffee

which is made with apple juice and

beans set on fire, then drunk quickly

cinnamon – a match made in heaven.

through a straw. Quite a sensation. A mellow but flavoursome vodka,

Another classic vodka with a long

and in my view one of the absolute

tradition is the extraordinary

highlights of Polish vodka, is Soplica

Goldwasser, dating back to the 17th

orzech laskowy (hazelnut vodka – ask

century in Gdansk. Distilled with

for hazelnut vodka and milk for an

aniseed, honey and herbs and – yes –

even softer, dreamy combination). An

gold flakes. Real gold flakes, floating

equally nutty but less sweet option

around in the glass. I bet you have

is the delicious Nisskoscher gorzka

never tasted anything like it – it has a

orzechowa (walnut vodka), which can

distinctive, almost perfume-like taste.

also serve as the base for a Polish style

And whilst the gold flakes may not

pina colada. On chilly days, ask for a

add much in terms of flavour, they

hot vodka grogg made with krupnik

certainly add to the feeling.

(honey vodka), cloves and lemon.

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Wódka bar and café facts

Most popular brand: Wyborowa Most expensive brand: Gray goose Vodka tasting sessions: Ten small shots for 35 złotys Prices: Prices quoted were correct at the time of writing. N.B. Overconsumption of alcohol can be lethal. Please drink responsibly and enjoy your vodka with typical Polish bar snacks such as pickled cucumber, herring, pierogi (filled pasta), kielbasa (sausage) and gołobki (stuffed cabbage). Na zdrowie, as they say here (“to health”).

Tourism

Top 5 hidden treasures:

Kraków off the beaten track Escape the tourist crowds of the Old Town, Kazimierz and the Wawel Castle. We have handpicked some of our favourite places in by Jens Markussen

Plac Imbramowski With the bustling atmosphere of a traditional bazaar, Plac Imbramowski is a refreshing alternative to modern

Kraków – places that visitors

super- and hypermarkets. Small-scale

may not know about and

farmers from the villages outside of

that make us feel like locals.

Kraków have been coming to this

Check them out!

outdoor market to sell their locally produced goods since the 1950s. At the 2,100 m2 large square you will find more than 100 covered market shops, plus a number of traders selling their goods from the boots of their vans or from hastily arranged spots around the entrances. Fruit and vegetables straight from the fields, locally produced Polish meat and poultry, fresh fish, dairy products, baked goods and sweets as well as clothing and footwear, furniture and

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electronic gadgets are some of the things visitors come here to buy. Everything is sold at the cheapest prices, and yet there is usually a fair amount of haggling going on. There are plenty of seasonal goods on offer: try the perfectly ripe raspberries in the summer, handpicked only a few hours earlier, or the delicious, mouthwatering apples in the autumn. Of course you can also expect heaps of Christmas decorations, Easter eggs and other seasonal items depending on the time of year. Plac Imbramowski is located in Prądnik Biały in the northern part of Kraków, close to the busy intersection of the main road between Zakopane and Warszawa and the northern eastwest bypass.

Tourism

Zakrzówek is a 32 metre deep blue lagoon in a former limestone quarry.

The recreational area of Zakrzówek is one of the most beloved green spots in

limestone, a varied wildlife and good

on the gravestones bear testament to

walking and cycling paths. Make sure

the turbulent history of Poland.

you go sooner rather than later though – the nearby residential area of Ruczaj

The most interesting day to pay a

is currently under development,

visit is no doubt on All Saints Day (1

threatening the future existence of

November). On this dark autumn day,

Zakrzówek. Zakrzówek is located in

Poles all over the country head to the

the district of Debniki close to Ruczaj,

cemeteries to tidy the graves and light

just a myth.

south of the river Wisła.

candles in memory of the dead and

But Zakrzówek, and its 32 metre deep

Cmentarz Rakowicki

blue lagoon, is indeed real. Just be

Cmentarz Rakowicki is one of

of flickering lights as the night falls.

careful – the former limestone quarry

Poland’s best known cemeteries and

Even though thousands of people

may appear perfect for a dive on a

the biggest in Kraków.

gather at Cmentarz Rakowicki this

a city often covered in a layer of grey

“

Zakrzówek

smog. A short 20-minute walk from the crowds at Wawel Castle will take you to this hidden treasure – in fact so hidden that some people believe it is

departed. The candles light up the

day, it is in fact a peculiarly quiet

hot summer day, the rocks forming

Zakrzówek recreational area.

natural platforms from where to jump

Visiting a cemetery may not be the

event with a respectful atmosphere.

– but it is not recommended (and

funniest way to spend an afternoon,

Cmentarz Rakowicki is located just

possibly illegal) to swim here. The

but Cmentarz Rakowicki is of great

north of the city centre, with the main

high cliffs make it notoriously difficult

historical, architectural and artistic

entrance at Ulica Rakowicka 26.

to get dry land under the feet again.

value with grand chapels and

Several deaths since the quarry was

mausoleums, enormous family tombs,

flooded in 1990 sadly prove this.

impressive funerary statutes and

Kopiec Krakusa

Instead of taking part in any law-

thousands of gravestones.

The 15 metre high, man-made Kopiec Krakusa mound was erected

breaking or life-risking activities, stick

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gravesites, creating a spectacular sight

to admiring the view and taking in the

Since the cemetery was established

in honour of prince Krakus, the

sun at top of the cliffs.

in 1803, it has been expanded several

legendary founder of Kraków. It is

times and now occupies an area over

the oldest of the city’s four remaining

Or go for a stroll in the beautiful

400,000 m2. The architectural variety

prehistoric mounds.

surrounding forest with cliffs of

and the numerous languages engraved

From the top of the grass-covered

also sample some tasty food, prepared

enjoy a modern wine cellar and a

hill you have a wonderful 360 degree

according to ancient recipes.

popular night club (Forty Kleparz,

panoramic view of Kraków. There

Kopiec Krakusa is located on Lasota

highly recommended!). It is expected

is also a perfect view of the now

Hill in Stare Podgórze, south of the

to be further occupied by a hotel and

abandoned Liban Quarry, which

river Wisła.

conference centre in the future.

was used as a cruel penal camp by the Nazis during the Second World War. It is possible to climb down to the bottom of the quarry to explore the ruins of old refinery equipment. Just a word of caution: the structures at the bottom of the quarry may be unsafe, and be sure to watch out for barbed wire. If you do venture down there, you will find a curious mix of genuine artefacts and movie props – Steven Spielberg shot some scenes of Schindler’s List here, and parts of the movie set were left behind. A good time to climb Kopiec Krakusa is on the Tuesday immediately after Easter, when Kraków celebrates

“ There are a number

Święto Rękawki. This medieval

of fortresses built by Austrians in the 18th and 19th century around Kraków

“

www.thinkkrakow.com

Tourism

festival presents an opportunity to experience what life was like in the Middle Ages, complete with sword fight demonstrations, authentic costumes and craft displays. You can

Fort Kleparski - Bastion III There are a number of fortresses built by the Austrians in the 18th and 19th centuries scattered around Kraków. One of the most interesting is the Bastion III Kleparz, also known as Fort Kleparski, which was built between 1856-1866. Fort Kleparski is the only fortress of its kind still in its original location. It has remained largely unscathed, as other forts further away from the city were the first points of contact with the enemy. In fact, it was never involved in any real fights or battles and thus mainly used as a storage facility. Those who find this fortress – it is easily overlooked as the walls are partly hidden by the trees of the surrounding Park Kleparski – can

Tourism

A day in communist Kraków:

In the footsteps of Lenin and Fidel Castro Get away from

Just like Berlin, Kraków is a city with

steelworks city on the outskirts

capitalism for one

many significant ties to communism.

of Kraków began in 1949. Cuba’s

day and experience

Vladimir Lenin lived here between

revolutionary leader Fidel Castro

true communist

1912 and 1914 and loved to hang out

visited Kraków in 1972. Most Soviet

with local Polish intellectuals. After

Union leaders visited the city, too.

Kraków by following our by Angel Lopez Peiro

itinerary. Discover Kraków’s communist heritage.

WWII following Stalin’s orders, construction of a socialist-realist

Today, many places in Kraków allow you to travel back in time to experience the atmosphere of the PRL (People’s Republic of Poland, 1945-1989) and give you insight into communist society and its lifestyle. We encourage you to discover all of these places in a single day and hence enjoy the ultimate Kraków communist Experience. You just need to follow this itinerary:

8.00 am Breakfast at the milk bar “Bar Mleczny” at Grodzka 43 street A tour with Crazy Guides is the main highlight of a perfect day in communist Kraków

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Tourism

“Nowa Huta is the

communist icon of Poland - an entire city built according to Stalin’s vision...

Eating in a milk bar is a must for any

prevent the theft of forks, knives and

the wonders of this one-of-a-kind city.

visitor to Kraków and a great way to

spoons!

Not only will you discover how the

start your intense communist day.

average Pole lived, worked and played

You should know that the first milk

When communism collapsed in

under communism, but stories and

bar in history opened in Kraków’s

1990, most milk bars went bankrupt.

anecdotes from your laid-back local

Market Square in 1948 at the corner

Luckily, though, enough remain

guide will bring the “good old days”

with Sienna Street. Initially this

and now serve as exciting tourist

back to life.

first milk bar did not serve warm

attractions for visitors. In addition,

dishes, and you could only drink

milk bars provide locals and

Your assigned Crazy Guide can pick

milk there. Owned by the communist

tourists alike with a good choice for

you up in Grodzka 43 in the Old

government, this kind of bar aimed at

homemade traditional Polish food

Town, or wherever you prefer, and

popularizing the consumption of milk

and serve a wide range of cheap, fast

after the tour can drop you off at the

due to a surplus of dairy products in

dishes. The Bar Mleczny on Grodzka

next stop in the itinerary in Nowa

Poland.

is one of the best milk bars in Kraków

Huta. Crazy Guide website.

“

for those looking for good food and an Since most traditional restaurants

unmistakable communist atmosphere.

were being taken over by the state and were eventually closed down by PRL authorities, milk bars mushroomed across the country and began offering cheap meals to the workers. In some cases, meals at the local milk bar were even included in a worker’s salary. By the mid-1960s, milk bars were already located throughout Poland. Anecdotally, Poland’s economic situation was so tough under the communist regime that many milk Fidel Castro was thrilled by Kraków’s socialistrealist district during his visit in 1972

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bars chained the cutlery to the table to

10.00 am Crazy Guides Communist Tour in Nowa Huta

1.00 pm Lunch and coffee at C-2 Południe, the communist café of Kraków at ós. Górali 5 This is truly a communist café, located

Visit and discover Kraków’s centrally

in the middle of Nowa Huta. However,

planned Socialist district of Nowa

you will notice their coffee does not

Huta (Polish for “New Steelworks”)

taste that communist and is actually

with Crazy Guides. By taking this tour

some of the best you can drink in

in a genuine Trabant automobile, you

Kraków. The same applies to their

can admire the Renaissance style of

cakes and sandwiches.

the Soviets, visit the front gate of the Vladimir Lenin Steelworks, admire

The stylish glass tables not only

the Avenue of Roses and experience

include photos of the construction

Tourism

More information on the Musem

of the city but also have pictures of

era authentic militia outfit and have

the communist leaders in Poland,

pictures taken with you wearing the

3.00 pm Branch in Nowa Huta of the

of the History of Nowa Huta

the Soviet Union and worldwide,

outfit. Upon request from customers,

Museum of the History of the City at

Quarter. Visit Website.

including images of Fidel Castro’s

the staff of C-2 Południe can play

os. Słoneczne 16

visit to Nowa Huta in 1972. Here

an interesting film that narrates the

you can wear a Polish communist-

history of Nowa Huta.

Nowa Huta - first a separate town was created at the location of villages in 1949. Stalin designed it to become a great centre of heavy industry that would supply the Soviet Union with steel and to serve as a model for the perfect socialist-realist city. It was an ideal urban project for communist propaganda, and it would be populated mostly by industrial workers with origins in rural Poland. The permanent exhibition displays dozens of pictures and texts in both English and Polish that present the most important events in the history and development of the district. You can also watch the documentary film “Labyrinth of Memory“ with English subtitles that features interviews with some of the protagonists and witnesses of events that took place in Nowa Huta.

Learn interesting anecdotes about the Lenin Monument at the Avenue of Roses

www.thinkkrakow.com

6.00 pm Dinner at the true communist restaurant of Kraków, Kogel Mogel Sienna 12 The 15 metre high, man-made restaurant, named after a homemade egg-based dessert popular in Eastern Europe, offers a great opportunity to enjoy the best Galician traditional cuisine in rooms that resemble a grand banquet hall for the communist elite. Kogel Mogel’s huge variety of starters, main dishes and desserts is unrivalled by similar Polish restaurants in rest of Kraków. One of the main highlights is the fact that the menu is delivered to guests in a Pravda-style newspaper. The food and drink in a socialist-realist literary style with constant references to Stalin, Lenin and the worker’s right behaviour and mind-set. This includes so many good examples of communist party propaganda that you might be tempted to think it was written by

members of the Politburo.

while you enjoy cheap beer and vodka

Kogel Mogel website.

shots. Propaganda website.

08.00 pm Beer at Bania Luka at Plac Szczepański 6

10.00 pm Communist style party at Klub Społem at Tomasza 4

This extremely popular bar is a

For the final communist catharsis,

similar concept to Pijalnia Wódki

no better option exists than going

i Piwa, a franchise that has recently

on a communist-style party at the

opened many branches in Kraków

so- called communist club of Klub

and throughout Poland. Their

Społem, next door to Bania Luka. It

successful idea consists in serving

is named after Społem (Polish word

beer at PLN 4 and Polish tapas at

for “jointly” or “together”), a retail

PLN 8, including delicacies such as

consumers’ cooperative that was

herrings, mackerel, tartar, sausages

nationalized by the PRL government

and bread with smalec (typical Polish

in 1970. It still exists today. Drink the

lard) and pickled cucumbers. Bania

best communist vodka and spirits in

Luka, however, offers a much wider

town at a price arranged for workers.

range of food and drinks (including

Dance to the best PRL-era songs.

spirit mixes for PLN 6), higher quality

But please, do not dare to ask the

beer, and a less intense aroma of beef

DJ, who’s working from an amazing

tartar.

vintage van-shaped set, to play a

Discover Nowa Huta in one of the amazing communist-time Crazy Guides’ cars

capitalist American song for you. Alternatively, you can also stop by the

And who knows: you might be lucky

cosy Pub Propaganda at Miodowa

enough to meet the male or female

20 in Kazimierz, a 15-minute walk

comrade of your dreams here.

from Market Square. Here you will be

www.pubspolem.pl

surrounded by hundreds of mementos and tokens from communist Poland

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The staff at Crazy Guides will lead you through the highlights of communist Kraków

Tourism

Vegard recommends:

The seven wonders of Kraków by Vegard Tverberg

Kraków is a city full of

burghers. The city raised a significant

Father and the Son as the Queen of

adventure, with plenty of

amount (equivalent to one year’s

Heaven.

sights that demand to be

budget), to attract Stwosz and his

visited. Vegard from Sviatovid

workers. It took them 12 years to

Guiding has given us his

finish the piece. By the time Stwosz

Good News of Christian theology,

left the city in 1496, he had enriched

such as the Birth of Christ or the

the city both with several sculptural

Resurrection, all depicted with depth,

masterpieces and a with a whole

gold and shimmering rays. The closed

school of artists continuing his style.

altar shows in 12 reliefs the Passion of

The altar is a culmination of Gothic

Christ and scenes which are darker in

art, including expressive realism

character. Therefore make sure you

and plenty of citations of Kraków

visit the altar right after the opening

life, including Stwosz himself. Each

hours, as the wings are opened

human posture is depicted with

daily at 11.50 am: you can enjoy the

anatomical precision. Each group

complete art work only around that

is full of dynamism, not the least

time.

personal choice of seven art pieces. They are from seven different centuries, represent seven different art forms, and are of different kinds and

The Mariacki church altar by Wit Stwosz

styles. The text below is meant as an inspiration to discover the city’s culture, history and religion in her corners.

15th century – The Mariacki church ALTAR- Wit Stwosz

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The open altar shows the

because Stwosz was a true master in carving deep waving folds and draperies.

The Mariacki Church altar is Kraków’s

The main scene shows the Dormition

greatest art piece. The sculptor

of Mary surrounded by the 12

Wit Stwosz from Nürnberg was

apostles. Above, Mary is lifted with

invited to Kraków in 1477, to create

Jesus by angels on a vessel of rays. At

a representative altar for the town

the top we see Mary crowned by the

16th century – Paradise Bliss TAPESTRY, Wawel Castle Is there a better representative of the European Renaissance than an arras. These portable frescos as they were called, were for a time on the move.

Arrases could be rolled together,

was something completely new, and

of the Polish nobility.

transported, and make the rooms of

must have given some additional spice

the next castle the king would visit as

to feasts hosted by Sigismund August.

late Renaissance artists built him the

representative as the previous. These

The fig leaves were added to the

Myszkowski Chapel. Its pattern was

tapestries were created with exotic

tapestry at a later, more conservative

the luxurious Zygmunt Chapel on

materials at important ports including

time. The central motif depicts God,

Wawel, a resting place for a queen and

Brussels, Bruges and Antwerp, and

telling Adam not to eat from the tree

two kings. But Myszkowski was a man

in the content deeply inspired by

of knowledge. The workshop of Jan

of wild Italian ideas, and he pretended

the goods brought home from other

de Kempeneer must have been deeply

to be a humble man. He didn’t want

worlds. King Sigismund August’s huge

moved by the theme, real knowledge

any boastful grave monuments in his

tapestry collection shows the wealth

eaters as they were. And we are still

chapel. On the contrary, he gave his

of the Polish king at the time and his

eating.

blessing to a delicate and pure marble altar for the worship of St Dominik,

close relation to Europe.

“Paradise Bliss” has a cartoonish

narrative of seven scenes, from the creation of Eve from Adams ribs, to the moment when an angel chases them out of Paradise. The vegetation is a combination of European and exotic plants; There are animals everywhere, particularly birds. Most visible is the peacock in the right corner; it symbolizes the lost Paradise in its relation to the expelled humans behind it. Alas, between them, like if the arras contains its own prophecy, stands the now extinct raphinae (Dodo bird).

The nudity depicted in the tapestry

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In the years 1603-1614 Italian

17th century – The Myszkowski Chapel, Dominican Church Marshal Zygmunt Myszkowski was a man of wild ideas, as his times, the period of the late Renaissance, were a time of wild ideas. The Polish nobility were a nobility without titles, so in names (though not in wealth and might) they were all equal. Zygmunt Myszkowski managed to distinguish

and the surrounding covered with clean marble walls and Ionic columns. That’s all! Except for a complete gallery of the Myszkowski family around the dome. So at the chapel, look up! In all modesty, let the world belong to the mortals, as long as the Myszkowskis dominate the heavenly sphere!

17th and 18th century – The Skałka POND

himself, by maintaining close contact with the Italian Gonzaga family, into

Skałka, Kraków´s most peaceful

which he was adopted and given the

and magic spot. Skałka – a church,

title Graf, to the annoyance of the rest

a monastery, a national pilgrimage

The Myszkowski chapel in the Dominican church

“ In the years 1603-

1614 Italian late Renaissance artists built the Myszkowski Chapel masterpiece... “ The Skałka Pond

and a pantheon. And in front of

same spot in pagan times. It´s called

we can see she has let fall a bracelet,

everything, the pond.

the stoup of Poland, and its water is

a foot chain and a necklace. Only her

In 1079 Stanislaw Bishop was

supposed to have healing qualities for

last clothing remain, with which she

killed at the Altar in Skałka by King

eye and skin deseases. At the centre

shyly covers her chest, suggesting a

Boleslaw the Bold. According to the

of the pond we see a baroque statue of

spectator in the pool. She is on the

hagiography his body was brought

Stanislaw restoring Piotrowin to life,

verge of stepping in. The fountain,

outside and cut into pieces. While the

a Krakowian variant of the Raising

and its position, needs no further

ravens circled around the remains,

of Lazarus. You don´t have to be a

Freudian explanation. The winged

four white eagles protected the body.

believer to enjoy Skałka. If Stanislaw

statue on its side seems to be Ishtar,

Miraculously, Stanislaw´s body parts

will not restore you to life, the bird’s

and the spread jewellery and the

then grew together. These eagles are

song will.

gesture of undressing seems to be a

commemorated at each of the ponds corner posts. Stanislaw was canonized in 1253, and has been the patron saint of Poland ever since, and is a symbol of the country´s destiny. He rests in Wawel Cathedral´s most prominent spot, but Skałka will always be it´s ‘Bathing Girl”, Pantaleon Szyndler, National Museum in Kraków

“ The girl stands on the

counterpoint. Every Polish king after 1320 had to make a pilgrimage to Skałka on the day before his coronation, as a penance for King

edge of a harem bath. On the mosaic under her we can see she has let fall a

Boleslaw´s crime, and a guarantee

bracelet, a foot chain and

The natural pond likely belonged to

a necklace. “

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of the monarchy´s obedience to the church. a temple previously located on the

reference to the Ishtar myth. It’s as

19th century – Pantaleon Szyndler´s PAINTING Bathing Girl, National Museum in Kraków, Gallery of Polish 19th century Polish art in Sukiennice

if, despite her innocence, the water

At first glance, Pantaleon Szyndler´s

theme of lost actuality. Sadly the

Bathing Girl might look like a nude without any further drama. It´s the paintings title and a closer look that make the whole scenery visible in the dark. The girl stands on the edge of a harem bath. On the mosaic under her

will petrify the girl. The mastery of the picture is that it makes both views visible – the picture is full of erotism and the tempted male gaze, and simultaneously a portrait of a poor innocent slave girl. One would expect the theme of harems and human trade to be a opposite is true. Poland might not be, due to its strong Catholic culture, the greatest participator in this trade. So the less the opposite is true for almost all of her neighbouring countries.

20th century – Stanisław Wyspianski´s STAINED GLASS “God Creator”, Franciscan Church It´s difficult to turn your head in

firmament in the midst of the waters.”

With the chairs on Plac Bohaterów

The dynamism in the elements is

Getta (Ghetto Heroes Square) Krakow

so violent, that some spectators

has finally created a holocaust

don´t see the creator at first sight.

monument that remember the

It´s like the creator breaks through

Jewish people that influenced and

from another dimension and can

contributed so much to the history of

hardly stand against the storm of the

the city, and who disappeared without

elements.

a trace in 1942 and 1943. Of a pre-war

Kraków without seeing something

‘God Creator ‘ by Stanisław Wyspiański

“The dynamism in the elements is so violent, that some spectators don´t see the creator at first sight. “

that is a reference to Stanislaw

But Wyspianski is always a

thousand Krakowian Jews survived.

Wyspianski. It might be anecdotes or

Krakowian. The Creator is also

The monument is situated on the

biographical references, citations from

a portrait of his uncle after his

former Nazi square for selections,

his poetry or his dramas, motifs from

return from Siberian exile. The

where those fit for work where further

his paintings, some of his unrealized

upper expressive, active, potent

exploited in the ghetto, while the

megalomanic ideas, his art works or

left hand though, is a citation, from

weakest where transported to the

sculptures in his honour. It’s as if the

the Michelangelo´s Sistine Chapel

gassing centre in Bełżec (only one

city was in his blood, and his blood

– it’s a mirror image of Archangel

person survived this “camp”). This

still pumps in it’s streets.

Michael´s right hand at the top of Last

place saw the most terrible scenes,

Judgement. Pay attention to the right

and it is supposed to have been the

His stained glass still has a central

hands in all of Wyspianski´s works.

mass shooting of the ghetto children

position as an art form he reinvented

And beware of right pale dead hand

that disturbed and changed Otto

and modernized. Foremost among

in God Creator. One day this will rise,

Schindler mind forever. (Schindler’s

them are the works in the Franciscan

and end what once begun.

factory is situated 300 m away from

Church, and most prominent of them all is God Creator above its choir. It´s so fresh and cartoonish that it looks more like a work from the 1960s than from the beginning of the century. The motif is the second day of creation – “And God said, Let there be a

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population around 60,000, less than

the square.)

21st century – MONUMENT on Plac Bohaterów Getta, Piotr Lewicki i Kazimierz Łatak, 2006

Our most important source of Kraków ghetto history comes from the memories of Tadeusz Pankiewicz, a Polish pharmacist on the ghetto

“ New chairs have made the victims of Kraków Ghetto ghostly present on the square again... These chairs are a giant step towards a Holocaust memorial in Kraków.”

square who courageously remained

combination of prohibition and daily

in the ghetto throughout its whole

life, makes the monument Jewish in

existence, and who witnessed all

conception. These chairs are a giant

horrors right outside his pharmacy

step towards a Holocaust memorial in

window. The direct historical link

Kraków. Let’s hope the conception of

to the chairs in the monument is a

the monument can provoke a change

reference depicted from Pankiewicz’

of the Stalinistic name of the place

memories. During the first selection to

as well. Whether or not there were

Bełżec 2-4 June 1942 the Nazis fooled

heroes, is irrelevant. First of all there

the Jews by making them pack all

were victims.

their belongings to create an illusion about “relocation” to better conditions in the east. Then they were beaten, kicked, shot and chased like animals down to the Plaszow railway station. All their belongings were ghostly left behind on the square. The new chairs have made the victims ghostly present on the square again. One part of the chairs, spread in a grid all over the square, is lifted on small pedestals, makes them both impossible to sit on, and destroy all other activity that can be conducted on an open square. The second part fulfils a practical function as chairs for trams and bus station. This very twist, this presence and absence, this

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Plac Bohaterów Getta in Old Podgórze

“ Schindler’s Factory museum is situated 300m away from the square. “

Kraków living Kraków and 21st century architecture by Michał Steckiw

10 ways to get around Kraków: From horses to underground tramway by Angel Lopez Peiro

Biking around Kraków by Salvatore Carfora

Fitness first: Stay fit in Kraków by Michał Steckiw

Frania Cafe and Laundrette by Anja Wedberg

Cool flats at hot prices: An insight into the local real estate market by Michał Steckiw

Kraków Living

Kraków districts at glance

From Stare Miasto to Nowa Huta There are several major

Kazimierz: The medieval Jewish

districts and a number of

quarter boasts a number of

neighbourhoods in Kraków.

synagogues and historic Jewish

Zabłocie: Former industrial quarter

Here is a brief introduction

merchant houses as well as numerous

and home to both Schindler’s Factory

to the key areas that attract

bohemian and arty restaurants, bars,

museum and MOCAK (Museum of

Olsza & Prądnik Czerwony:

clubs and art galleries. Home to the

Contemporary Arts), this is another

Up-and-coming business and

Jewish Cultural Festival each summer.

up-and-coming area on the south

entertainment area with high-rise

bank of the Wisła River.

office buildings, shopping malls,

local expats and foreign visitors - from the UNESCOprotected Stare Miasto, through bohemian Kazimierz and the up-and-coming areas of Grzegórzki and Podgórze to the socrealistic Nowa Huta. Stare Miasto: Kraków’s Old Town, located in the heart of the city, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site which includes the picturesque Rynek Square, the majestic royal Wawel Castle, remains of medieval fortifications, rich renaissance and baroque residences and the Jagiellonian University’s medieval campus.

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regional assembly.

if Poland is the first post-communist country you are visiting. Located east

Stare Podgórze: Connected to

of Kraków’s centre.

a cineplex, a water park and new

Kazimierz by the Kładka footbridge,

AWF: Recreational area surrounding

residential developments. Located

this historic district is where the Nazis

the AWF Park and the new Krakow

north-east of the city centre.

created a Jewish ghetto during World

Arena. Here you will find a large

War II.

public park, two shopping malls, a cineplex and a new sports and events

Wola Justowska: Cosy residential

Grzegórzki: 19th century industrial

arena. Suggested possible location for

area west of Stare Miasto on the way

settlement, today a developing area

the Olympic Village 2022.

to the zoo and the Las Wolski forest. Includes the renaissance Decius

with both heritage and modern residential apartments and offices

Nowa Huta: Established by the

plus the high end shopping mall

communist regime following World

Galeria Kazimierz. In the near future

War II as a model socialist labour

Kryspinów & Balice: Kraków’s

there will also be a new philharmonic

town, with typical 1950s socrealistic

nearest beach is located by the

hall on the bank of the Wisła River,

architecture copied straight from the

recreational lake of Kryspinów, not

and the new seat for Małopolska

Soviet Union. Highly recommended

far from Kraków Airport in Balice.

Palace and Park complex.

Kraków Living

Kraków and 21st Century architecture:

Can Kraków learn from London, Berlin, Vienna, Beijing or Montreal?

by Michal J. Steckiw

Kraków is famous for

from the Baltic Sea to the

find in Kraków a few architectural

its outstanding heritage

Black Sea. Yet it is the city’s

diamonds that are evidence of fresh

architecture: the castle,

preservation of its historic

thinking on how the modern can

temples, merchant houses

Old Town that has limited

blend in with the historic. To whit:

from the renaissance and

development of outstanding

don’t leave Kraków without visiting

baroque periods and cultural

modern architecture that

buildings. These are symbols

could become landmarks of

of Poland’s rich history at a

21st century Kraków.

encouraged the development of new

Looking at design metropolises: London, Vienna, Montreal, Berlin...

landmark buildings, Kraków has

London is the heart of European

focused instead on preserving classic

creativity and architectural

buildings. Further, Kraków has

development. Not only the home of

ensured that anything new falls in line

the world renowned Big Ben, St Paul’s

with existing structures and does not

Cathedral, Tower castle and Tower

overshadow its key heritage buildings.

Bridge, the city also plays host to the

By placing a ceiling on creativity and

easily recognized Shard pyramid,

the vision for the future, Kraków

Gherkin skyscraper, Millennium

has produced architecture in recent

Bridge and the soon-to-be-completed

decades that is at best average. With

Pinnacle tower – all just footsteps

some determination, however, on can

from historical landmarks.

time when its borders spread While other major cities have

Will Kraków find a balance between historic and modern architecture?

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the Małopolska Garden of Arts.

Montreal, the UNESCO City of Design, is well known not just for its heritage French and British colonial architecture, Notre Dame Cathedral and the Vieux Port, but for 20th century Canadian masterpieces such as the Olympic Stadium, Habitat 67, Palais des congrès, and 1000 de la The Arts & Science Centre and the new opera in Valencia, Spain

Gauchetière. Vienna, Austria, found a balance between its heritage of Austrian empire palaces, churches and mansions and the extravagant buildings designed by Hundertwasser. The famous landmark of historic Valencia is, surprisingly, the modern City of Arts and Sciences and the new

The Olympic Stadium in Montreal, Canada: UNESCO City of Design.

opera house designed by Santiago Calatrava. Since the fall of communism, Berlin has undergone outstanding urban redesign.Today, the city proudly presents modern architecture coexisting with historic landmarks that survived or were rebuilt after World War II.

The Shard in London: The tallest skyscraper in the European Union

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What about Kraków? Kraków has yet to envision how the 21st century should be marked on the city’s architectural landscape. Visitors to the city need not have their cameras at the ready when viewing recent large municipal projects such as the new Opera house, Wisła Stadium or even commercial developments like Sheraton Hotel or Galeria Krakowska. There are some developments worth mentioning, however. First of all, the Małopolska Garden of Arts, internationally recognized by ArchDaily as the best cultural building in 2012; the “Kładka” pedestrian bridge that spans the river between Kazimierz and Old Podgórze (Stare Podgórze); or revitalization projects that have combined old and new architecture: the Galeria Kazimierz shopping mall, Pasaz 13 and the Museum of Contemporary Arts (MOCAK). The Małopolska Garden of Arts introduced new spatial order to the old backyards and ruined buildings found on Rajska and

Kraków Living

Szujskiego streets in Kraków’s lively neighborhood around Karmelicka Street. The focus point is a multifunctional hall that was combined with a former 19th-century horse riding arena. The Małopolska Garden of Arts is a collaborative project between two institutions: the historic Juliusz Słowacki Theatre and the Małopolska Voivodeship Library. The wing found on Szujskiego Street houses a modern art and media library with multimedia books and music, while the section on Rajska Street was developed as a theatre that includes a multifunctional events hall. Its geometric and transparent architecture has become a landmark of 21st-century Kraków.

In the near future... Fortunately, there are several other new public buildings currently under development that have the potential to become new architectural landmarks of the city: the ICE Congress Centre on the river bank opposite Wawel hill; the new sports arena that upon completion will resemble a spacecraft;

Kraków Living

a new waste processing plant that

for the new seat of Małopolska

will blend in naturally with the

Regional Assembly, also in Grzegórzki

surrounding rural landscape on the

quarter, there are positive signs that

outskirts of Nowa Huta; the Kantor

local decision makers understand that

Museum (Crikoteka); and the new

Kraków deserves new architectural

International Terminal at Balice

iconic buildings that will represent the

Airport. These are signs that the city

21st century city on the rise.

“

is finally creating modern architecture equal to its aspirations.

Old Kraków offers amazing

Małopolska Garden of Arts in Kraków

opportunities for both urban design and the redevelopment of

will announce an international

areas outside the core Old Town

architectural competition for the

and Kazimierz. If it is to be a truly

design of a new philharmonic hall

international city with aspirations

and music center on the banks of

to be more than a weekend getaway

Wisła River. It will be located in the

destination, Kraków needs to survey

redeveloping post-industrial area of

the best examples of what happens

Grzegórzki. Is this an opportunity

when architects are unleashed

to develop a modern landmark

and allowed to create and envision

building that will match those in

something new and (oftentimes)

Beijing, Oslo, Valencia or Sydney?

controversial. The examples of

It will be, presuming the selection

modern architecture listed below that

committee possesses the wisdom and

can be found in the heart of heritage

vision that Kraków deserves. After

districts can serve to inspire Kraków

all, the architecture found on Wawel

and its residents. The city houses

Hill comprises styles found over the

outstanding historic architecture. The

centuries: medieval, renaissance,

time has come to build something

baroque and classical. Judging by the

for future generations by boosting

results from the recent competition

architectural creativity.

“

Soon the Małopolska Region authority

The Kładka’pedestrian bridge connects Kazimierz and Old Podgórze in Kraków

Photo: National Centre for Performing Arts in Beijing, China. Architectural benchmark for modern public buildings architecture?

Architectural benchmark for modern public buildings? The Home Army Museum, Kraków

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Kraków offers opportunities for both new urban design and redevelopment of areas outside the Old Town and Kazimierz.

Kraków Living

10 ways to get around Kraków: from horses to

underground tramway

by Angel Lopez Peiro

On two and four wheels, by

many pedestrian streets, and the main

rail, on water, with grandeur

tourist attractions are fairly close to

or in a sporty way. Move

each other. Walk along the Royal Way

around the jewel in the crown

from the Barbican, through Floriańska

of Poland like a Polish king.

Street, the splendorous Main Market

On foot Kraków is one of the best cities in Europe to discover on foot. There are

Square and Grodzka Street to the magnificent Wawel Castle. Follow the Planty Park ring around the Old Town; mosey down the riverbank boulevards that stretch out beside the Wisła River.

By tram and bus Kraków’s well-developed public transportation system network has numerous on-time tram and bus lines that cover the city’s districts. A ticket valid for 20 minutes costs PLN 2.80 while a 40-minute ticket costs PLN 3.80. Student and senior citizen tickets cost PLN 1.40 (valid for 20 minutes) and PLN 1.90 (valid for 40 minutes). Poland’s longest tram on Lubicz Street in Kraków

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Many tram and bus stops also feature these machines.) The machines are always located on the first carriage of a multi-car tram. If you get on a tram on which you can’t find a ticket machine, tickets can be bought from the driver, though at a slightly higher price. Drivers require exact change. Tickets must be validated on the bus/ tram; this is done in clearly marked devices located throughout the tram/ bus. Be aware of the disguised plainclothes ticket controllers. Your chances of encountering them are much greater than you may think. Prices for fines range PLN 120-150. If you are caught without a valid ticket, you must pay the fine in cash directly to the controller (unless you hold documents proving your permanent address

Kraków Living

“

By bicycle? Read our article on recommendations for bikers in Kraków.

in Kraków). Riders holding the

and other train stops scattered around

Car-o (+48 12 623 44 33). Due to city

discounted student and senior citizen

the city. Check lines and schedules.

regulations, these particular taxis must be requested by phone.

tickets may be required to show a proper student or pensioner ID.

In addition, an express train connects the main train station and Kraków’s

By bicycle

Check MPK’s website for further

John Paul II Airport in 20 minutes.

information about Kraków’s public

Although the train station is 200 m

that wend their way through

transportation. A good guide to plan

from the international terminal, you

interesting urban and nature

your trip through the city with public

can use a free shuttle bus service to

landscapes. Many of them go around

transportation is jakdojade.pl.

move between them. The price for

Old Town, Kazimierz and along the

a regular one-way ticket is PLN 12.

Wisła riverbanks. However, some of

More information and schedules.

the most beautiful bike routes follow

“

By train Many of Kraków’s suburbanites

The city boasts of many bike paths

the Rudawa River from Błonia Park

commute from home by train.

By taxi

Commuter rail connects the main

There are three low-cost taxi services

Forest, near Kościuszko Mound. Be

train station (Kraków Główny) with

in Kraków: iCar (+48 12 653 55

aware that some of the climbs along

the secondary station Kraków-Płaszów

55), Mega Taxi (+48 12 196 25) and

the way can be very steep, and that

and cover the trails through Wolski

not all trails are marked. The bike path to Tyniec is also worth trying. Bike rental outlets can be found throughout Kraków’s Old Town. For instance, you can rent a bike and go on an organized bike tour with Cruising Kraków, Cool Tour Company and Bike Trip. Alternatively, many self-service bike rental stands are located throughout the city. While these stands allow you to pick up a Underground tramway in Kraków’s centre linked to the main railway station (Dworzec Główny)

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Kraków Living

bike for a small fee, be aware that you

Kraków’s Market Square (Rynek) and

must register online first at

travelling through Old Town have

kmkbike.pl.

become a landmark of the city. You

Find out more about Kraków’s water

can hire a carriage if you approach the

tram system, its prices, schedules and

Maybe you would like to move around

north side of Market Square. Prices

routes.

Poland’s former capital in more non-

start at PLN 100 /carriage. Carriages

conventional ways while having a bit

can carry up to 4 or 5 people. Prices

of fun at the same time. Here are our

begin at PLN 100 for a ride around the

suggestions:

square; a trip from Rynek to Wawel costs around PLN 170 /carriage (30

By golf cart Prices range from PLN 200-250 (a

to Wawel and then to the Kazimierz

maximum of 5 fit in a golf cart) for

Jewish District costs PLN 350.

a ride that includes Old Town and

Hop on the only café on rails in Poland. Enjoy a coffee, tea or beer while travelling by carriages and a glamorous atmosphere without losing sight of Kraków’s majestic monuments. More info about Tram

By boat/water tram

over the price with the driver. The

Kraków’s river trams connect different

golf carts are also popular nightlife

points located on the Wisła riverbank

TramWay Party is a very popular fun

entertainment: drinking alcoholic

as well as many of the city’s tourist

activity among students in Kraków,

beverages on the golf carts is

attractions: Wawel Royal Castle,

whether local or international.

permitted and the driver can play your

Old Podgórze, the Ghetto Heroes

music over the cart’s speaker system

Square and Oscar Schindler’s factory,

This is ideal for anyone eager to have

if you bring an mp3 player. One of the

the Balloon, Manggha Museum,

a great time and experience a different

many companies in Kraków operating

the Camaldolese Monastery in

side of public transportation. You can

sightseeing golf carts is See Kraków.

Bielany, Kościuszko Mound, John

dance to a music mix from a DJ and

Paul II’s home on Tyniecka Street,

have some drinks while you travel

the Norbertine Monastery, and the

around Kraków with your friends.

Pauline Church on the Rock. You can

More info and booking.

Horse-drawn carriages arrayed in

www.thinkkrakow.com

Tram Café Retro and Tramway Party

Kazimierz. It’s worth it to bargain

By horse-drawn carriage

minutes); a 1-hour ride from Rynek

Tyniec by navigating up the river.

also take a 10 km scenic boat trip from Kraków to the Benedictine Abbey in

Café Retro and booking.

When travelling across Kraków centre by boat you can enjoy a pint of Polish lager...

A bird’s-eye view of Kraków from a hot-air balloon Our final recommendation does

“

Kraków Living

not correspond to a means of transportation proper, but instead involves leaving earth and observing Kraków from 200 metres in the air! It is located just across the Wisła River from Wawel Castle. The hot-air balloon in question is securely tied to the ground. You can enjoy magnificent views of Wawel Castle, Old Town, the whole city and its surroundings, and even (on a clear day) the stunning Tatra Mountains. We highly recommend hopping on the balloon just before the sunset. The ride accommodates up to 30 passengers, and a regular ticket costs PLN 36 per person.

www.thinkkrakow.com

By boat and water tram: enjoy Kraków from the Wisła River and meet the locals

Kraków Living

Biking around Kraków

by Salvatore Carfora

It’s a hard knock life for us

bike trails that sometimes abruptly

honking and cutting in front of you,

(bikers)

end, thus forcing one to cross very

making you wish that you had one

busy roads. The city itself is almost

of those weird armoured bikes from

Or, should you prefer, call us cyclists.

entirely flat, so one can enjoy long

WWI to teach them a lesson! Those

The truth is that life for bikers/

rides without pushing too hard on

bikes, however, belong to the history

cyclists ain’t easy in big cities such as

the pedals. For people that find

books and museums. If you really

Kraków. There are the ever-present

flat roads boring, several artificial

want to have a pleasant life riding

traffic jams, bike trails that resemble

mounds (hills) can be found scattered

your beloved two wheels, perhaps you

Swiss cheese with many holes, and

around the city. The Polish term for

should follow these basic rules.

mound is Kopiec, and there are four of them: Kopiec Kosciuszki, Kopiec Wandy, Kopiec Krakusa, and Kopiec Pilsudksiego. Kraków boasts of several large green areas, the largest of which is Błonia Park. Here you can enjoy a pleasant and relaxing ride around the park on a road/trail shared with bike riders, roller skaters and jogging aficionados (but no automobiles). Sadly, all these nice places are not very well connected with each other, and sometimes you may end up arguing with nasty drivers who keep

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Keep your bike efficient Always make sure your tires are properly inflated and that the treads are not to worn out. Keep the chain lubricated and free of rust: you don’t really want it to break while ascending Kopiec Kościuszki. Make sure your brakes work properly: you are going to need them as you make your way downhill back to Kraków.

Equip your bike with lights and a bell

Kraków Living

It is crucial to be seen and heard when you are on the road, especially when it’s dark. Equip your bike with bright

Salvatore, originally lights on the front and back. Reliable from Italy, explores and inexpensive LED lights are readily available these days. Mount a biking around bell on your bike if you don’t want to Kraków and shares keep shouting at pedestrians on the riverbank trail to move along. his tips for fun and safe biking Drive safely, wear a adventures. helmet The truth is, bike helmets look kind A Nun on a bike? Only in Kraków.

of funny and lame, but one might save your life one day. When you buy a helmet, don’t underspend. Make sure the model has been tested and complies with international safety standards.

Bring along a repair kit Especially when you go for a leisure ride at one of the many spots around the city such as Ojców National Park, Las Wolski, Tyniec, or the artificial lagoon at Kryspinów. You backpack can easily accommodate a small pump, a repair kit for bicycle inner tubes, and a multi-tool key.

www.thinkkrakow.com

your front tire touches the tracks, no

Watch out for tram tracks A common problem for urban bikers is tram tracks. If your ride is a mountain bike, your tires won’t get stuck in the tracks, but if you love fast racing bikes or comfy Holland bikes, then you have to be very careful when you approach tram tracks. The best way to cross them is diagonally, of course, while making sure that no

matter what you are riding, you’ll find yourself sitting on the asphalt. Unless, of course, you’re riding in the middle of a big field in the countryside: in that case, all of the above doesn’t apply.

Don’t listen to your mp3 player while riding This includes any other activity that

car is approaching you from behind.

might distract you, such as smoking,

If you dare to ride during the winter,

talking on the phone, eating, etc.

don’t even think about crossing them:

When you ride your bike, you need

tracks freeze very easily. As soon as

to focus on everything happening

around you; otherwise, you could

them. Unless you don’t possess a driving license and you don’t know anything

injure yourself or cause an accident.

about the topic. In that case read a book or choose to walk: the world will be

Don’t forget the cars, buses, and other

grateful.

bikers around you – keep your eyes

That’s it. We hope we didn’t forget anything, and we wish you a nice ride in

and ears open.

the streets of Kraków… if you manage to avoid all the pedestrians that jam the

Don’t listen to your mp3 player while

streets in Old Town Kraków, of course!

riding. Seriously!

Don’t drink alcoholic beverages before riding We all love a cold beer on a sunny summer day, don’t we? Regardless, you have to make a decision: bike or beer. First of all, it’s not safe for you and for the people around you. Secondly, if you get caught by the police, they will give you a ticket and possibly take away your driving license. And you don’t really want that, trust me.

Respect traffic laws You should always bear in mind that you don’t own the road and others have right to use it as well. To some extent, riding a bike is like driving a car: you are subject to the same traffic Biking down the Wisła river.

www.thinkkrakow.com

Kraków Living

laws and rules, so you must respect

Karmelicka Street leading toward Bagatela

Kraków Living

Fitness first:

Stay fit in Kraków Sport is everywhere in Kraków: from the runners zipping along the boulevards adjacent to the Wisła River and Błonia Park, to the bikers finding their way to the Kraków mounds, over to the Las Wolski forest, up to the zoo

by Michal J. Steckiw

and Tyniec Abbey. With three football clubs, two new stadiums, and Poland’s largest indoor sports arena scheduled to be completed in 2014 – Yes, its true that Kraków is all about sports and

“Here’s a guide to Kraków’s gym chains for both visitors and newcomers.”

Kraków has a growing network of modern gyms

staying fit.

Kraków provides plenty of

about the local gym scene?

opportunities for staying fit.

Here’s a guide to Kraków’s gym

The city was named the 2014

chains for both visitors and

European City of Sports, hosts

newcomers.

many international sporting

www.thinkkrakow.com

The local gym scene offers a variety of places worth visiting. When spending some time in Kraków, you will likely stay either in the Old Town or near one of many business parks outside

events, and was the home base

With the recently developed

for Italian, English and Dutch

network of modern gyms located

a recent survey by the local portal

national football teams during

around the city, you won’t miss

krakow.naszemiasto.pl, Platinium

the 2012 EUFA Football

your workout while spending time

Fitness (located on ul. Mogilska) and

tournament in Poland. What

in this historic city.

Energym (located in Czyzyny) are

of the core city centre. According to

Kraków Living

the most popular and highest ranked among Kraków’s new gyms.

and Energym are among top favorite gyms in Kraków where you can flex, sweat, relax and mingle...

Platinium offers a large space just three tram stops from the railway station in a refurbished factory on the border of the city centre. Expanded and furnished with modern equipment, this club offers four large

“

workout rooms, space for fitness classes, two saunas, healthy bar and a chill-out lounge. The gym, which is popular with young Krakowians, foreign students and expats, accepts both month-to-month membership, daily passes and the Multisport benefit card. Its value for the money and its convenient location have made it a top spot to get fit. Much closer to the Old Town are Pure Fitness gyms, with two locations: one by the Galeria Kazimierz shopping mall and the other in the Angel City complex by the railway station. The first one has a swimming pool and offers its members a number of classes. It is located in a popular shopping

www.thinkkrakow.com

“ Platinium Fitness

mall by the bohemian quarter of

the city. Park Wodny (Aquapark)

Kazimierz, and close to the Wiślane

has a large gym above its swimming

Tarasy apartment complex and office

pool complex. Located next to the

buildings along the Wisła River.

Quatro and Rondo business parks, the

The second location can get quite

gym is popular among local residents

crowded with local students from the

and professionals who work in the

Politechnika campus. The pricing is

nearby office towers.

quite expensive for Polish standards. Contract membership and daily

Energym in Czyżyny opened in 2011

passes are available. These are still

and is a modern three-storey complex

the two closest gyms when staying

with saunas as well as fitness, yoga,

or living in the core Old Town. Daily

boxing and martial arts classes. It was

passes are PLN 75 compared to PLN

ranked among the most popular gyms

25-50 for other gyms mentioned here.

in the city. Located in the residential district of Czyżyny, Nowa Huta, it is

Three other gyms worth

30 minutes from the city centre by

recommending are located a little

tram.

further from the city centre, though

Recently Galeria Krakowska - the

they can be considered when living in

shopping mall by the main railway

station opened a new exclusive gym Ozone Fitness catering to the city center guests and people working nearby. Given the variety of places where you can stay fit, learn new work out techniques or attend numerous fitness classes, there is no way you need to miss your workout routine when visiting Kraków. If you have just moved here, there is plenty to choose from when selecting a local

gym where you can flex, sweat, relax, mingle and get that endorphin boost. Stay fit in Kraków. After all, Poland is home to some of the world’s bestknown Strongmen.

Kraków Living

Frania Cafe and Laundrette

by Anja Wedberg

Washing may be one of the

During my first months of living in

supply of good music, including

dullest activities us humans

Kraków, I found myself living in a

regular live concerts.

have to endure on a regular

small apartment without a washing

basis. Turn your weekly

machine, prompting regular visits to

One load of washing and drying costs

chore into something rather

the local laundrette.

PLN 16 and the complete laundry

pleasant at Frania Café and Laundrette, which offers a genius combination of washing machines, drinks and

Anja, from Sweden, discovered a rather special laundrette right in the city centre: a genius combination of washing machines, drinks and art. 70

www.thinkkrakow.com

art.

service which includes ironing Luckily for me, Frania proved to be

comes to PLN 26. The launderette is

something out of the ordinary: a

centrally located at Starowisła 26. It

combined laundrette, café, bar, art

is open every day from 10:00 am to

gallery with local art works on display

midnight or longer.

and free Wi-Fi-spot. Plus a constant Frania has a fun website (in English

Frania’s website at www.franiacafe.pl is available n English and Polish

and Polish) where you can check out any upcoming events, sign up for their newsletter, browse the photo gallery and find useful information about washing. There is also a Frania Facebook page (in Polish).

Kraków Living

Cool apartments at the right price. Kraków is the buyer’s market. For now.

Thinking of buying a flat withing walking distance to old Kraków? With prices in the city centre starting as by Michal J. Steckiw

low as PLN 7,400 per square metre, it is the buyer’s market.

A city on the rise, a drop in property

square metres, the top penthouse will

prices and increased competition

include heritage polychromic windows

among real estate developers, now

and interiors designed by Maciej

is the time to invest in modern

Zień - one of Poland’s biggest design

apartments around Kraków’s

brands.

historic Old Town. Kraków may not have the luxurious

A view of the Old Town

Panorama of old Kraków captured from Wiślane Tarasy apartment complex.

www.thinkkrakow.com

high towers you find in Warsaw or

Some of the city’s new top-prestigious

London, but there is one project on

developments worth exploring are

the horizon that might be an exception

Novum Apartments opposite the

– the 24 floors high tower skeleton

Academy of Economics campus,

by the roundabout Rondo Mogilskie.

Angel Wawel next to the Wawel

This old structure, which has been

Castle hill and Nadwislanska

an eyesore of the Kraków skyline for

11 residence overlooking Kładka

the last 30 years, is planned to be

footbridge, banks of Wisła river and

restored as a Treimorfa tower with

old Kazimierz. All of those within

the intention of offering both high-rise

walking distance to Kraków main

residential apartments and modern

attractions within historic city center.

office space, with grand views over the

When completed, Angel Wawel will

city and beyond – even as far as the

be the home to the most luxurious

Tatra Mountains.

penthouse in Poland. With 700

Kraków Living

Best for location, comfort and architecture Do you prefer something more lowkey with a courtyard, fountains and a cosy garden? Wiślane Tarasy The Old Town remains the best real estate investment in Kraków

offers both a view of the city from its large terraces and a large green space for the residents. This development was selected among the top most

large development near Kraków’s main train station is currently the one of its kind incorporating loft design and heritage architecture from historic Okocim Brewery complex. When completed Browar Lubicz will host modern luxurious and middle class apartments, office and commercial space within walking distance from the old town and the main railway station.

prestigious residential addresses in Kraków. It also has a great location near Kazimierz quarter, the Wisła river and the Cracovia Business Centre tower.

Lubicz Brewery lofts. Source: Balmoral Properties www.browarlubicz.pl

For many years Wiślane Tarasy has been the most desired modern apartments complex in the city. The estate is made up of four modern buildings, with commercial space on the ground floor for services of interest to all residents. Browar Lubicz (the old brewery lofts) is another interesting project that topped the chart of new

Wiślane Tarasy modern apartments complex www.wislanetarasy.pl

www.thinkkrakow.com

prestigious addressed in the city. A

Wiślane Tarasy courtyard at Grzegórzecka Street 67c

“

Wiślane Tarasy, Angel Wawel and Browar Lubicz are the most desired new addresses in Kraków.

“

Highlights Plac Nowy and the heart of Kazimierz by Angel Lopez Peiro

ARS: Kraków Artistic Cinema Centre by Jens Markussen

Karma Coffee Roasters by Elisabeth Wójcik

Schindler’s Factory Museum by Anja Wedberg

Pod Wawelem: The Habsburg in a Polish beer tent by Chris Hamp

Cupcake Corner Bakery by Katarzyna Morzewska and Elena Gordeeva-Voot

Kraków’s lifeblood - the Wisła River by Anna Cieśla

Dajwór Street in Kazimierz

by Michał Steckiw and Salvatore Carfora

Choco Cafe: chocolate heaven in Kraków by Grzegorz Kałucki and Hilde Merete Udnaes

Highlights

Plac Nowy and the heart of Kazimierz

by Angel Lopez Peiro

For over two centuries Plac Nowy

Si quieres escapar del agobio que

has been a market place with its

provoca la multitud de turistas

unmistakable rotunda “Okrąglak”,

que abarrotan el casco Antiguo de

used by the Jewish community as a

Cracovia, dirígete a Plac Nowy. La

slaughterhouse from 1927 until the

“Plaza Nueva” se encuentra en el

Second World War.

corazón del antiguo barrio judío de Kazimierz que se ha convertido en

Angel, a native of Barcelona, discovers the hidden corners of Kazimierz and Plac Nowy. After years of reinvention, Kazimierz is bursting with creative energy and bohemian charm.

www.thinkkrakow.com

Kazimierz has a lively nightlife with hundreds of bars and restaurants

Today it hosts several butchers and

la zona de moda de Cracovia; una

up to a dozen hatches selling the

alternativa para el ocio nocturno y la

best zapiekankas in the country.

cultura urbana que atrae por igual a

Tucking into a zapiekanka – a

polacos, expatriados y a los turistas

baked baguette with mushrooms,

más curiosos.

cheese, meat or vegetables, topped with your choice of fresh chives,

Durante más de dos siglos Plac Nowy

mayonnaise or ketchup – from Plac

ha sido un lugar de mercado con un

Nowy is a must for any visitor. The

inconfundible edificio circular en el

square also features interesting

centro conocido como “Okrąglak”,

coffee shops and pubs such as

que fue usado por la comunidad

the old-time evocative and candlelit

judía como un matadero de aves

Alchemia, French-style Les Colours

desde 1927 hasta la Segunda Guerra

and Mechanoff. For a more glam night

Mundial. Hoy en día, el edificio

out, try the cocktails at Le Scandale or

alberga varias carnicerías y hasta

Baroque, or go dancing at Taawa.

una docena de casetas donde hacen

For the ultimate dancing experience

las mejores zapiekankas de Polonia.

in Kasimierz, however, enter the

Comer una zapiekanka – una baguette

ENG

sewing-machine-themed Singer after

horneada con.

dancing energetically to club, gypsy

Sin embargo, si lo que estás buscando

Nowy acoge también cada año en

and klezmer music – many of them

es una gran juerga acércate a Singer

mayo el Festival de la Sopa, un evento

standing on the tabletops where only

a partir de las dos de la madrugada

único. Se trata de un concurso que

hours earlier coffee was served.

y encontrarás una multitud de

anima a los participantes cocinar la

gente bailando como locos música

mejor sopa del certamen y permite a

In addition to food, drinks and dance,

electrónica, gitana y klezmer (judía)

los visitantes disfrutar de una amplia

Plac Nowy has a daily fruit and

– muchos de ellos moviendo el

variedad de sabores, desde sopas

vegetable market. At the weekends,

esqueleto sobre las mesas en que

tradicionales polacas como el zurek

you can find a good selection of

unas horas antes los clientes del bar

hasta recetas innovadoras como La

antiques and crafts (on Saturdays)

estaban tomando un café. Además

sopa de tomate y plátano. Por la

and clothes (on Sundays) here.

de por su comida, bares y ocio

noche, la cerveza y un concierto al aire

Plac Nowy also hosts the unique

nocturno, Plac Nowy destaca por su

libre en medio de la plaza cogen todo

Soup Festival every year in May.

mercado diario de frutas y verduras.

el protagonismo del festival.

This competition encourages its

Los fines de semana este mercado

participants to cook the best soup

ofrece también una buena selección

and allows visitors to enjoy a variety of flavours, from traditional zurek to

Kazimierz captured from a hot air baloon

innovative recipes like tomato and banana. At night, an open air concert and beer are the protagonists.

www.thinkkrakow.com

de antigüedades y artesanía (sábados) y prendas de ropa (domingos) Plac

02:00 am to find a crowd of people

A corner of Kazimierz that featured in Steven Spierlberg’s film Schindler’s List

Highlights

ENG

Highlights

ARS - Kraków Artistic Cinema Centre

by Jens Markussen

Kraków has many cinemas to boast about, but only one like this. Discover why Jens, originally from Denmark, was captured by the unique ambience of this hidden jewel of the city’s cultural scene.

Kraków has many cinemas to

Krakow har mange biografer,

boast about, but only one like

men kun én som denne.

this. ARS opened its doors

ARS slog første gang dørene

first time in 1916 and is the

op i 1916 og er den ældste

oldest cinema in Kraków still

biograf i Krakow stadig i

to be operational. The cinema

brug. Biografen har beholdt

has kept the old style and is

den oprindelige stil, og er i

a truly different and more

sandhed en anderledes og

personal experience than all

mere personlig oplevelse end

of the huge and anonymously

de enorme, men anonyme

mundane multiplexes

multiplex-biografer, der ellers

otherwise scattered around

er spredt gavmildt over hele

the city.

byen.

There are five unique viewing halls of

Der er fem sale af varierende

varying sizes, seating from 20 to 170

størrelse, med pladser til mellem 20

individuals, each hall with a different

og 170 biografgængere; hver sal med

seating arrangement – some feature

hver sin sædeindretning – nogle har

traditional cinema chairs, others have

almindelige biografsæder og andre

more comfortable armchairs. Even

har komfortable lænestole. Selvom

if located in an old building with

biografen er beliggende i en gammel

wooden staircases and other “old

bygning, der har beholdt meget af sin

world grandness”, ARS was actually

oprindelige storhed, var ARS faktisk

one of the first cinemas in Poland to

en af de allerførste biografer i Polen til

ARS Cinema is located in the heart of the Old Town

www.thinkkrakow.com

ENG

Highlights

install Dolby Digital Surround.

earlier.

at installere Dolby Digital Surround.

blevet forvandlet til et supermarked blot få år tidligere.

Sadly, ARS was on the verge of closing

It seemed like the ARS complex were

ARS var beklageligvis tæt på at lukke

down in spring time 2012, as the

facing the same fate when suddenly a

i foråret 2012, da de private ejere af

ARS så ud til at lide samme skæbne,

private owners of the building on ul.

compromise between the owners and

bygningen på ul. św. Jana pludseligt

da et kompromis mellem parterne

św. Jana planned to increase the rent

the tenants was reached. Even if that

planlagde at øge huslejen med 100

pludseligt blev indgået. Selvom det

with 100 % - something the cinema

deal meant taking away the biggest

% - noget biografen ikke var gearet

kompromis indebar, at biografen

could not cope with. Fans of the

viewing hall and thus 240 seats, you

til kunne håndtere. Biografens

mistede sin største sal og dermed 240

cinema were angered and local media

still have the chance to go and enjoy a

tilhængere var rasende og de lokale

pladser, betyder det også, at du stadig

roared, recalling with horror how the

film here - but go before it turns into a

medier buldrede mod planerne,

har muligheden for at se en film her.

art nouveau cinema of Kino Wanda a

Carrefour grocery store.

genkaldende med rædsel for sig

Gør endeligt det – før det er for sent.

few hundred meters away had been

hvordan en gammel art nouveau

turned into a supermarket a few years

biograf i nærheden, Kino Wanda, var

www.thinkkrakow.com

ENG

Highlights

Karma Coffee Roasters: A little drop

of coffee in the ocean of sustainable change

by Elisabeth Wójcik

Located on Krupnicza Street, which hosts the largest concentration of eco facilities in Kraków, Karma is probably the first lunch bar in town with vegan and glutenfree meals clearly indicated on its menu.

This is a tiny, modern place where

Karma Coffee Roasters, une

activists from local NGOs like to meet

goutte de café dans l’océan du

over a cup of high-quality organic and

développement durable.

fair-trade coffee that has been selected and roasted by the owner. The coffee

Sur la rue Krupnicza, qui

was even presented at the Nordic

compte le plus de commerces

Roaster Competition in Oslo for the

bio qu’aucune autre de Kraków;

first time in 2013, an idea supported

Karma est sans doute la

by the coffee shop’s Norwegian

première cafétéria de la ville à

customers in Kraków.

indiquer clairement au menu ses repas végétaliens et sans gluten.

On weekdays, anyone can meet at Karma between 9:00 am and 7:00 pm

Les activistes des ONG locales

(11:00 am-7:00 pm on weekends). The

aiment venir dans ce petit bistro

atmosphere is very home-like, where

moderne, pour y discuter leurs plans

the natural wood and pastel colours

de changer le monde autour d’une

let the light in, but with a messy

tasse d’excellent café bio et équitable,

touch... A few small tables provide

torréfié par le propriétaire. Ce café a

seating for around 30 customers. A

même participé à la Nordic Roaster

bigger table, which can fit up to 8

Competition 2013 à Oslo, une idée

popping individuals, is very popular at

soutenue par les clients norvégiens

lunchtime.

habitués de cette cafétéria de Cracovie.

Karma not only serves delicious Interiors of Karma lunch bar. Source: Karma

www.thinkkrakow.com

ENG

Highlights

organic food around noon, but is

En semaine, chacun peut passer à

magazines (pas toujours les plus

also famous for its breakfasts in

Karma entre 09h00 et 19h00 (11h00-

récents) sont à votre disposition.

the morning and delicious snacks

19h00 les samedis et dimanches) et

Les enfants aussi trouveront de quoi

throughout the day. The friendly

s’y sentir comme chez-soi. L’intérieur

s’amuser dans le coin de jeux.

staff provides good service, though

lumineux est décoré de bois naturel

Karma est certainement un

you might wait a little for your order,

et de couleurs pastel, avec un léger

incontournable pour tous les amateurs

especially if you are with a group of

laisser-aller… Les quelques tables

d’alimentation bio, ne serait-ce

more than four people. To enjoy Slow

couvrent environ 30 couverts. La table

qu’en chemin vers les boutiques et

Food during a quick lunch break, a

d’hôte de huit personnes est souvent

restaurants écologiques du voisinage.

better option might be to order soup

partagée par des inconnus pendant

Pour en savoir plus, consultez le profil

and a salad. The restaurant’s price

l’heure de pointe.

sur Facebook de Karma.

À Karma, on sert des repas bio

“ Un incontournable pour tous les amateurs d’alimentation bio...”

range is affordable.

“ It is definitely a must try for all eco-food lovers...”