PENN JAZZ
SASS
BRASS
AND SERIOUS
CLASS
BEAUTY’S NEW
Factory girls peeking behind
the fabric
facade host a swanky affair
LUST-WO RTHY
Vintage Couture
experience modern style
138 South 34th Street | www.AdolfBieckerStudio.com
WALK The
Emily Sherbany Editor-in-Chief
Erica Sachse Creative Director Leah Pellegrini Editorial Director Chloe Heckman Managing Editor Jocelyn Teece Editor-at-Large
FASHION
Marsha Low Style Director Lynn Nguyen Men’s Style Director Josy Blair, Celeste Courtenay, Diane Destribats, Nuria Frances, Ali Immergut, Sabreena Jackson, Elonia McHenry, Carlyn Mehaffey-Coy, Alex Moritz, Robyn Rapaport, Alexis Richards, Daniella Sakhai, Quinn Werner Stylists Carolina Beltran Beauty Director Jazmyne Garvin-Archer Beauty Stylist Concept Communications Manager Elizabeth Elder On-Set Coordinator Luisa Sucre
FEATURES
Elizabeth Elder Fashion Editor Nicole Ripka Features Editor Kayla Fuchs Copy Editor Stephanie Nam Research Editor
PHOTOGRAPHY
Ayasha Guerin Photography Director Bonnie Arbittier, Alex Remnick, Chidera Ufondu, Max Wang Photographers
ART AND DESIGN
Natalia Juncadella Art Director Jacqueline Lem Assistant Art Director Melanie Appleby, Sanlie Auyeung, Emma Baiada, Josy Blair, Diane Destribats, Kayla Fuchs, Grace Guan, Monika Haebich, Becca James, Margot Konig, Tiffany Lu, Alex Luzi, Irene Manousiouthakis, Paula Mello Ferber, Alison Nadel Layout Team
Management
Operations Coordinator Monta Ozolina Assistant Operations Coordinator Aliya Saigol Professional Apparel Coordinator Lynn Nguyen Bookings and Model Coordinator Danielle Harris Assistant Bookings and Model Coordinator Celeste Courtenay Assistant Managing Editor Sharon Friedlander Archivist Anna Stochmalski Dzine2Show Executive Board Members Lauren Haas, Ibie Longjohn
Marketing
Marketing Director Caitlin Lyons Sponsorship Chairs Briana Thompson, Melissa Urfirer Social Media Representatives Adrienne Ross, Victoria Thompson Alumni Relations Chair Cordelia Meserow Design Chairs Sabrina Bral, Grace Guan
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Elizabeth Elder, Sabreena Jackson, Tiffany Lu, Erica Ma, Nicole Malick, Janelle McDermoth, Cordelia Meserow, Divya Prabhakar, Nicole Ripka, Vinita Saggurti, Chelsea Stellmach, Linda Yao
THEWALKMAGAZINE.COM
Editor-in-Chief Emily Sherbany Editor-at-Large Jocelyn Teece Editorial Director Elonia McHenry Website Director Jason S. Mow Assistant Website Director Jennifer Cahalane Website Operations Coordinator Monta Ozolina Senior Fashion Editor Julia Molo Senior Culture Editor Mae Hochhauser Senior Shopping Editor Erica Ma Senior Health & Beauty Editor Cindy Yuan Senior Men’s Fashion Editor MK Kleva Junior Fashion Editor Daniella Sakhai Junior Culture Editor Alli Kaye Junior Shopping Editor Ciara Stein Junior Health & Beauty Editor Sarah Kehoe Junior Men’s Fashion Editor Adam Warner Website Writers Aida Abdikulova, Lara Berns, Jackie Chayet, Sophia Fischler-Gottfried, Rama Hamarneh, Chloe Heckman, Bridget McGeehan, Nanette NuNu, Clare Sandlund, Alexa Schwarz Website Stylists Heather Miller, Anais Ortiz, Adrienne Ross Website Photographer Jeremy Benson Blog Director Emma Baiada Blog Photographers Hanna Bottger, Monika Haebich, Ali Immergut, Gunarat Lorn, Paula Mello Ferber, Brooke Rascoff, Alex Salsman, Jae Seon Choi, Chelsea Stellmach, Anna Stochmalski, Briana Thompson, Charlene You QUESTIONS? COMMENTS? WANT TO GET INVOLVED? CONTACT US AT INFO@THEWALKMAGAZINE.COM.
WALK The
SUMMER 2012 ARTS & STYLE
08
penn speaks We asked, you answered, we listened. Here's what Penn has to say.
10
all that jazz We chat with Penn's prestigious Jazz Ensemble as they take the stage at Smokes.
16
zaching is believing
An internet phenomenon with an inspiring message
19
Fresh and fun exercise routines outside of Pottruck
20
an insider's guide to reading terminal market
How to tackle this culinary mecca
21
an affair to remember
FASHION
22
34
40
44
46 56
57
58
WALK ON
rework your workout
60
61
62
Your guide to hosting a stylish and sophisticated party
time travel Socialites strut through 30th Street Station in chic vintage fashion with a contemporary spin
Electric factory Bold and bright beauty looks for summer
trend watch Try these hot summer styles on for size
legends of luxury The fascinating histories of four iconic fashion houses
menage a trois Dim alleys go from grunge to glam thanks to this love triangle, decked in vintage couture
q&a with philly's vintage couture queen An exclusive interview with Brooke Dillon of The Katacomb: Vintage
the secret life of your favorite shirt A close-up look at what you wear and how it's made
East side story Our cover shoot in Penn Park
what's hot in philly this summer Where to shop, where to eat, and how to stay cool despite the weather
Summer reading Books to check out over summer vacation
senior spotlight Bidding farewell to our incredible senior staff
ON THE COVER: MEGHA JAIN ’12 is wearing an Amour Vert blouse ($134 at Vagabond), Dolce Vita silk shorts ($70 at Vagabond), necklace ($100 at Vagabond), vintage Ferragamo belt (stylist’s own), Fair Trade India woven gold cuff ($17 at Vagabond), vintage patterned gold cuff ($14 at Vagabond), and gold Topshop heels (stylist’s own). Hasbrouck Bailey Miller ’12 is wearing a Brooks Brothers shirt, Levi’s jeans, Paul Stuart belt, and Johnston and Murphy shoes (all model’s own). Photographed by Ayasha Guerin ’12 Styled by Ali Immergut ’15, Marsha Low ’13, and Lynn Nguyen ’14 Directed by Erica Sachse ’14 Coordinated by Danielle Harris ’14 and Lynn Nguyen ’14
PENN JAZZ
SASS
BRASS
AND SERIOUS
CLASS
BEAUTY’S NEW
Factory girls peeking behind
the fabric
facade host a swanky affair
LUST-WO RTHY
Vintage Couture
BEHIND THE SCENES
The
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR Rather than following a linear path, culture takes a dynamic route, blending ever-evolving modernity with timeless tradition. As University of Pennsylvania students and Philadelphia residents, we experience the richness of past-present cultural duality every day. In Center City, we find not only the modern-day quiet convenience of a Whole Foods Market, but also the centuryold Reading Terminal Market, brimming with liveliness reminiscent of its early days. At Penn, we bask in the old-school charm of College Hall, a campus treasure built in 1873, while only a few blocks away, the University constructs an unprecedented nanotechnology center to be completed in 2013. But rather than striking a discordant note, the quaint and modern elements of Philadelphia and Penn’s campus complement each other harmoniously. Likewise, the richness of fashion consists in taking cues from the past while continuously innovating. Join us in our Summer 2012 issue as we recount “Legends of Luxury”—the fascinating stories of iconic, timeless fashion houses including Chanel and Burberry—but also as we report on this season’s
fashion whims in “Trend Watch.” This summer, you’ll find stunning new garments for both men and women that hark back to humanity’s humble origins in nature. For some old-fashioned fun, we bring you “All That Jazz,” a feature on Penn’s student jazz ensemble that sometimes swings contemporary with jazz renditions of Radiohead songs. But if you find yourself in an ultra-modern mood, the daring beauty looks in “Electric Factory” and the intriguing facts about 3D printed textiles (the future of cost-effective, customizable fashion) in “The Secret Life of Your Favorite Shirt” will undoubtedly suit your fancy. In this issue, we celebrate both the novel and the enduring—but most of all, we rejoice in the meeting of the two. In our fashion shoots, “Time Travel” and “Ménage à Trois,” we delve into rich mixtures of modern and vintage pieces, creating charming yet edgy looks with endless dimension. The intellectual and creative wealth that the past affords today’s culture and fashion leaves me speechless with wonder. Well, almost speechless; you might find me chanting, “Hurrah, hurrah Pennsylvania! Hurrah for the Old and the New!”
Emily Sherbany, Editor-in-Chief
Top left: Julia Graber ’13 and Erica Sachse ’14 model looks from our “Time Travel” shoot. Photographed by Ayasha Guerin ’12. Top right: Alex Remnick ’12 photographs Nicole Ward ’13, Filip Przetakiewicz ’14, and Lisi Christofferson ’12 for our “Ménage à Trois” shoot. Below: Sequin fabric. Photographed by Max Wang ’15.
thewalk/ARTS&STYLE
08 THE WALK / SUMMER 2012
PENN
ARTS&STYLE\thewalk
SPEAKS
This semester, we wanted to hear what you have to say about fashion. We asked you to answer our style polls on thewalkmagazine.com and send us your most fashionable spring photos. You spoke—we listened. These are the results!
WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE STORE ON CAMPUS?
48% Urban Outfitters
22% Piper
11%
Bonded
11%
Ann Taylor
9%
American Apparel
WOULD YOU WEAR socks with loafers?
50%
It depends on the loafer
33% No way, that's crazy!
11%
Yeah, comfort is my top priority.
GUYS, WOULD YOU WEAR a floral button up?
50% Absolutely, I love me some paisley.
50% I'll stick with my solids.
ladies,WOULD YOU WEAR A BELOW-THEKNEE SKIRT?
44% Sure! Why not?
30%
Maybe, depending on the occasion.
26%
Not while I’m under 30.
American Apparel
9%
THEWALKMAGAZINE.COM 09
thewalk/ARTS&STYLE
ALL THAT
JAZZ
Penn Jazz explains the connection between the sartorial and the sonic—and it’s stronger than you might think.
10 THE WALK / SUMMER 2012
On Andrew Judson: Suit, models’ own.
Modeled by Rachel Glade ’14, Andrew Judson ’12, Alex Rogala ’14, Matt Rosenthal ’15, Josh Tycko ’13, and Sam Verdugo ’13 Photographed by Max Wang ’15 Styled by Diane Destribats ’13, Ali Immergut ’15, Alex Moritz ’15, Alexis Richards ’15, and Daniella Sakhai ’15 Hair by Alexey Kats from The Studio CL (thestudioCL.com) Makeup by Carolina Beltran ’15 Directed by Marsha Low ’13 and Erica Sachse ’14 Coordinated by Celeste Courtenay ’15, elizabeth Elder ’15, Danielle Harris ’14, Lynn Nguyen ’14, and Luisa Sucre ’15
BY JANELLE MCDERMOTH f any Penn ensemble truly understands the relationship between music and style, it’s Penn Jazz. Since 1973, the university’s student-run jazz band has combined brass and class in venues ranging from Philadelphia jazz clubs to World Café Live to the Spring Fling stage. The prestigious ensemble has also performed with numerous jazz legends, including Dizzy Gillespie, Wynton Marsalis, and Christian McBride. But regardless of the particular occasion, the band always entertains audiences in style. According to Penn Jazz, music is not a mathematical equation. Technical proficiency is necessary, of course, but creativity and personal style are equally important. When the 18-piece ensemble performs their lively concerts each semester, featuring top-notch renditions of tunes by Miles Davis, Duke Ellington, and the like, the productions are always as much about the skillful horn solos as the precise rhythm syncopations. This musical artistry is not without hard work. During the first week of classes each September, the executive board listens to prepared pieces by Penn Jazz hopefuls in a competitive audition process that can take over 10 hours. Once the decisions are made, the group meets twice a week for rehearsals, eagerly preparing for their upcoming gigs. Each year, the band’s repertoire expands, thanks to the diverse group’s range of personal tastes. Though the members are united by their shared love of the jazz music genre, they agree that it’s important to represent each instrument and personality. “Some people want to stick to the classics,” explains saxophonist and Vice President Joey Page, “but some years, people just want to play Radiohead. What happens then? We do a jazz rendition of a Radiohead
song.” This flexibility and cooperation keep the band excited during rehearsals. In general, however, the members tend to be laid back and low-key. “Jazz is about expression, so you’re really just playing for yourself and your group,” Joey notes. “If there’s an audience, that’s an added bonus.” This lesson of expression is one that any stylish individual must take to heart. Whether you’re playing a trumpet solo or rocking your favorite outfit, both clothes and music can be fun, unique reflections of personality. Penn Jazz members certainly take their fashion choices into account when putting on shows: for formal performances, the members dress in variations of sleek, classy, and mostly black outfits. “The guys wear suits. Sometimes the quirkier ones have colorful ties or shirts,” says pianist and Penn Jazz president Rachel Glade. As the only girl in the group, Rachel “can pretty much wear whatever [she wants], which usually involves a black dress and heels.” “We suit up for performances,” adds trumpet player Josh Tycko. “They’re classy affairs, dimly lit by flickering candles in the dark oak halls of the oldest buildings on campus. Or sometimes, they’re in Dunlop Auditorium. Same difference.” No matter the occasion, Penn Jazz offers a sophisticated sound, a sense of humor, and a stylish ambiance for every listener to enjoy. Whether playing a Radiohead cover or an old jazz standard, the members “swing the hell out of it” and have plenty of fun in the process. In essence, fashion and jazz aren’t very different. Learned skill and natural creativity play a part in both—and so does a lot of improvisation. W
11
12 THE WALK / SUMMER 2012
On Rachel Glade: Fringe flapper dress, Atmosphere, stylist’s own. Jewelry, stylist’s own. On Andrew Judson, Alex Rogala, Matt Rosenthal, Josh Tycko, and Sam Verdugo: Suits, models’ own.
THEWALKMAGAZINE.COM 13
thewalk/ARTS&STYLE
14 THE WALK / SUMMER 2012
ARTS&STYLE\thewalk
On Rachel: Fringe flapper dress, Atmosphere, stylist’s own. Jewelry, stylist’s own. On Andrew, Alex, Matt, Josh, and Sam: Suits, models’ own.
THEWALKMAGAZINE.COM 15
thewalk/ARTS&STYLE
zachary lederer 1/25/2012
“
“
ayers. I am a You are in my pr 13 year old son g on str a e mom of been in the battl Kellen who has or for over three with a brain tum o tomorrow em years. He has ch at it will run th is ar fe s hi d an has a girl friend late.....my baby ks for filling my an Th . u coming over tonight Zach. Yo pe ho ith w t hear le ib ed cr in e an are going to mak ather some day. df dad......and gran ve from Orlando, Sending lo –Jill
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Cast members from the National Tour of Monty Python’s Spamalot “Zaching” with FOX5 DC’s Holly Morris
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16 THE WALK / SUMMER 2012
This really brings tears to It’s incredible to see you so my eyes to see. strong in such a situation. I just turned Mercy Medical Center cancer 22 and at the end of last summer was diagno surgeon Neil Friedman and sed with a brain cancer survivor Laine Knowles tumor as well. I’ve done 3 sessions and got 3 to go. The doctors have been say n been going through this inc ing that I’ve Actor/comediaey red Godfr ibly wel l, but I truly do admire you r attitude and persistence. Seriously ma n, you inspire a lot of people (as the “Zaching” shows) and I’m one of tho phenomenon se. – Grady
“
olice
ty P ’s Coun George ching” e c in r P ent “Za Departm
”
Zach’s dormmates in Hagerstown Hall at the University of Maryland, College Park
Jay Leno
Rebecca Manning during a Remicade infusion
aching
ARTS&STYLE\thewalk Man “ Za the Na ching” unde r tional Aquariu water at m
ZACHING IS BELIEVING BY TIFFANY LU
n this age of Facebook, Twitter, and global online interaction, internet sensations like planking and Tebowing seem to regularly materialize overnight. But in reality, a rare few pictures posted online truly garner international attention. Most of the time, when memes do catch on, they tend to lack serious social significance. So when Zachary Lederer, a University of Maryland freshman battling a recurrence of childhood brain cancer, struck a strongman’s pose immediately after brain surgery and asked his father to post a photo of it on Facebook, he only wanted to reassure worried family and friends that he was staying strong. He didn’t expect his cousins Jon Feldman and Joey O’Dwyer to imitate the pose and deem “Zaching” the new Tebowing. He didn’t expect his high school friend Raymond Kim to create an entire blog dedicated to “Zaching” photos. And he definitely didn’t expect an endless outpouring of support from fans, fellow cancer patients, and even celebrities around the globe. Yet the 18-year-old football player’s message has spread via news channels like ESPN and CNN, sports teams such as the Washington Capitals and Dallas Cowboys, and public figures including Dane Cook and Jay Leno. It’s no mystery why Zach’s story is so engaging. He was diagnosed with a fatal brain tumor at the age of 11 but persevered through a three-month hospitalization and months of rigorous rehabilitation. When the cancer recurred this past January, Zach faced it head-on with the same determination, faith, and positivity. As he shared with The WALK, “I always tell people that I’m living the dream. I have so much support
and am in such a good situation.” Perhaps the most moving part of Zach’s story is how he has inspired those around him. For Raymond, “maintaining the ‘Zaching’ blog has been one of the most incredible things ever.” The University of Notre Dame sophomore credits the movement with motivating him to study oncology. “I know that billions of dollars go into cancer research each year, but we still haven’t found a cure,” he noted. “Having seen something that I helped start inspire thousands of people across the world, and having read all these letters from cancer patients saying how ‘Zaching’ has given them the strength to keep fighting, I thought maybe I could help make a difference.” Fellow Johns Hopkins patient Tim Smith, for example, flexed his biceps after prostate surgery, saying, “Zach gave me the inspiration for this pic and moving forward.” A George Mason University student sent six photos of her family “Zaching,” captioned, “Thanks for getting back at the cancer.” And Jill, an Orlando resident whose 13-year-old son Kellen has battled a brain tumor for over three years, praised Zach for “filling my heart with hope tonight.” Penn junior Chloe Heckman has been close with Zach since elementary school. She noted that watching Zach “stare cancer in the face and fight with everything he has”—wearing a smile the entire time—has drastically changed her outlook on life. As Penn students, “we are all blessed with an Ivy League education and countless opportunities that not every kid can afford,” she reflected. “I definitely lose sight of that sometimes. I think we all do. But when we are sitting there feeling sorry for everything
that’s going on and we turn around and see Zach, like a champ, going about his normal routine…It reminds you that life is precious. There isn’t time to mope around. All you can do is be grateful.” It’s a poignant lesson from a young man whom Chloe calls “one of the happiest kids I know” and a line of thought that could benefit the Penn community. To us college students, for whom falling ill before midterms means days of frustration and self-pity, “Zaching” provides a bit of perspective. A negative outlook never sparked a movement or inspired thousands, but Zach’s positive attitude most definitely has. This college freshman has managed to stay both hopeful and humble throughout the entire experience. As he sees it, “I have had the rare chance to prove myself worthy of this life, and I have had the opportunity to see kids my age and younger fighting for their lives.” He tries his best to make sure that amidst all the media exposure, people remember what “Zaching” is truly about: supporting cancer patients and their battle. “They show more courage than I ever will,” Zach explained, “and have inspired me greatly. The fight they show on a daily basis and their love for life is contagious.” It’s this zeal for life that Zach’s strongarmed stance embodies. Even those of us who may not be directly affected by cancer can take away from his determinedly bright mindset. As Zach himself says, “Any obstacle can be overcome, whether it’s grades or cancer. You just need to have the right attitude.” If you believe it, raise your arms and “Zach.”
W
This summer, Raymond and two of his friends are undertaking a 70-day, 4,000+ mile bike ride from Baltimore to Seattle with the organization 4K for Cancer. Collectively, the trio is dedicating the ride to Zach and to their friend Keeley Imel, who recently lost her battle with brain cancer. To support them, visit 4kforcancer.org/profiles/raymondkim/, 4kforcancer.org/profiles/kevin-barnes/, and 4kforcancer.org/profiles/hae-lee/.
THEWALKMAGAZINE.COM 17
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Rework YOUR
Workout By Linda Yao
The Sporting Club, a good location for boxing classes. Photo from sportingclubbellevue.com.
“I need to work out.” How often do you hear your roommate, your best friend, or even yourself say these words? Although this familiar phrase is tossed around regularly, it’s not always easy to put the words into action. Waking up on a Saturday morning can be tough enough to begin with, and making the trek to Pottruck to run monotonously on a treadmill for an hour sometimes seems impossible. While some students avoid the gym at all costs, others create crazy, impractical workout schedules to avoid the “freshman fifteen.” We sometimes forget that exercising doesn’t have to be a chore. These less common—and more fun—forms of exercise are a great way to change up your workout routine and inspire you to stay fit.
LITHE METHOD
BARRE WORKOUT The barre workout has been around for ages but is just now becoming a popular fad. Unlike cardio exercise routines, this fusion of ballet, dance, and pilates focuses on strengthening the body through small, repeated movements. Forget dumbbells—the barre workout uses the body’s own weight resistance to build muscle. If you’re getting tired of your standard yoga and pilates classes at Pottruck, head over to Pure Barre. Located on the fourth floor of 1701 Walnut St., Pure Barre is a perfect jogging distance away from campus.
What is Philadelphia known for besides its cheesesteaks and pretzels? The Lithe Method. This Philadelphia-based full-body workout is a blend of muscle toning and fat burning exercises. If you’re looking for something a bit more active than the barre workout, the Lithe Method is perfect for you. Along with some pilates and barre movements, you will find yourself lifting your feet off the ground in exercises that founder Lauren Boggi describes as “cardiocheer-sculpting.” A Lithe studio is conveniently located on the fourth floor of Rittenhouse Square’s Medical Tower (255 South 17th St.), so you can stop by after an afternoon of shopping.
SALSA DANCING
BOXING
Salsa dancing is not just a social activity. It is also a cardio-intensive, hip-swinging workout. Through salsa, you can burn up to ten calories a minute while slimming your waist and toning your midsection. The best part is, once you get the hang of it, you may even feel the urge to swing your way into one of Philadelphia’s many salsa clubs for a night of calorie-burning fun. You don’t have to look far for salsa classes—try Take the Lead on Pine (4701 Pine St.).
Ever wonder how Angelina Jolie got her hot body for Tomb Raider? Her exercise regimen included months of boxing. Boxing combines cardiovascular and strength training, so you’ll lose weight quickly while also toning your muscles. And there’s an extra bonus: you’ll increase your self-defense skills in the process. If this intense workout sounds like your thing, head over to The Sporting Club at the Bellevue near Rittenhouse Square (224 S. Broad St.).
Clockwise from left: Pure Barre; photo from purebarre.com. Pure Barre; photo from phillystylemag.com. The Lithe Method; photo from welandgoodnyc.com.
THEWALKMAGAZINE.COM 19
thewalk/ARTS&STYLE
AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO
READING TERMINAL MARKET BY NICOLE RIPKA
Get a taste of Philly’s rich history at this culinary mecca.
BY NICOLE RIPKA
M
y seventh-grade history teacher, Ms. Vevante, took my class to Philadelphia for a proper American history lesson. We spent our visit standing in line for hours for a quick look at the Liberty Bell. In my opinion, Ms. Vevante did not do her Reading when planning our field trip. It was only a fleeting taste of history—if she’d wanted to give us a full three-course meal, she could have taken us to Philly’s No. 3 tourist attraction, Reading Terminal Market. For those of you who have never been to Reading Terminal Market, here is the lowdown on this culinary mecca. Established in 1892 by the Reading Railroad at 12th and Arch Streets, it is the nation’s oldest continuously operating farmers’ market. The 78,000-square-foot market originally held nearly 800 spaces for vendors and was touted as the greatest food market in the world. However, when the Reading Railroad went bankrupt in 1971, the market began to deteriorate, until there were only about 23 merchant stands left. In 1990, the Pennsylvania Convention Center Authority rebuilt the structure and set it up as a non-profit organization to maintain its historical integrity. Today, the market is home to nearly 80 independently owned small businesses, offering a diverse array of products. The payoff for the city has been huge, both culturally and financially. About 100,000 locals and tourists throng
20 THE WALK / SUMMER 2012
the market each week to explore the distinctive shops and stalls, jostle for the freshest produce, and peer between elbows for a glimpse of Philly’s best signature dishes. Here are the vendors you cannot miss. Your first stop is Tommy DiNic’s, where the lines may be long, but for a good reason. The roast pork sandwich with caramelized onions and roasted peppers is legendary—it even gives the classic Philly cheesesteak a run for its money. Around the corner, grab a slice of marbled cheesecake and dead bone cookies from Termini Brothers Bakery. Then, sample the finest local and imported cheeses at Downtown Cheese, or drizzle rich, authentic olive oil on a crisp baguette from Le Bus Bakery. At the Dutch Eating Place, order a stack of fluffy pancakes, so perfect they don’t even need maple syrup. Grab fritters, gingerbread cookies, and muffins from Beiler’s— these are not to be missed. Hershel’s East Side Deli’s massive Thanksgiving sandwich is also a must. Next, hit up Miller’s Twist Hot Pretzel Stand, where bonneted women cosset, roll, and twist doughy coils, bake them to shiny perfection, and sprinkle them with crackly salt crystals. Take a coffee break at Old City Coffee, one of Philly’s best coffee roasters. Of course, it would be a grave mistake to take your coffee without a whoopie pie from Flying Monkey Patisserie.
Beck’s Cajun Café, the newcomer on the block, offers gumbo, jambalaya, and decadent bread pudding. Watch the Amish from Lancaster Farms bake raisin bread and cinnamon rolls until your mouth waters for a bite of toasted perfection. Ogle barbecue chicken from Delilah’s Southern, and then dabble in Mediterranean food at Mezze. If you’re looking for redemption or feel the need to cleanse, visit Terralyn—Bath, Body, and Spirit. Lynette, your new fairy godmother, will greet you eagerly with her cherished handmade, vegetable-based soaps. I’ve saved the best for last. Bassetts is the oldest, most successful ice cream shop in Philadelphia. Their milkshakes are particularly rich and delicious, and if you visit the market in autumn or winter, be sure to try the pumpkin ice cream. Though it may seem hard to believe, I was barely able to scratch the surface of this historical and culinary smorgasbord. But I can promise you this: if you can’t find what you want at Reading Terminal Market, you probably can’t find it anywhere. Fortunately for me, I’ve made it back to Philly after Ms. Vevante’s field trip and have three more years of college to explore the city’s history—and, more importantly, its food. At Reading Terminal Market, I can have my historical education and eat it too.
W
ARTS&STYLE\thewalk
AN AFFAIR
TO REMEMBER
BY NICOLE MALICK
We’re all familiar with the typical Penn party: loud, dimly lit, and overcrowded. But when the mood strikes for a classier get-together, free of Solo cups and sweaty dancing, what’s a Penn student to do? Here’s The WALK’s guide to hosting a stylish and sophisticated soirée.
invitations The first step in throwing a truly classy affair is sending out invitations. Give your guests the when, where, and why, as well as ample time to respond. Are you throwing a cocktail party? Dinner party? Summer evening BBQ? Guests love to know how they should dress and if they should bring anything or anyone along.
DO Take time to design your DON’T Send out invitations
invitations. Invitations provide via Facebook. Responses are unthe guests’ first impression and trustworthy, and the event won’t tell them what to expect from always be taken seriously. your upcoming party.
menu The menu may be the most crucial aspect of your party. Start with drink choices. Both red and white wine should be available (properly chilled, if necessary), but don’t be afraid to be inventive as well. Seasonal drinks are always a crowd pleaser, making the afternoon or evening more memorable. Try Arnold Palmers with mint leaves or water with fresh fruit slices. Next is food. Be sure to plan your meal ahead of time, and, of course, don’t forget dessert!
DO
Have food cooking (or DON’T Mix random foods warming) as your guests ar- like tacos and lasagna. You want rive. Nothing smells better than your guests leaving satisfied, not fresh, hot food (unless it’s sushi, sick. of course).
An elegant table arrangement sets the mood. Photo from sheknows.com.
theme When planning, it’s also important to have a purpose. Having a reason to throw a party sets a festive mood, whether it is for a milestone event or a holiday. Decorate accordingly.
DO Celebrate the end of finals with food and festivities. Friends will appreciate the opportunity to indulge in some tasteful revelry.
DON’T Use a sports game as an excuse for a party. Beer, burgers, and a blaring television won’t provide the sophisticated atmosphere you’re aiming for.
DECORATIONS When setting up, be strategic with the arrangement of food and drinks. Eating appetizers should be a communal activity that gets the party started as soon as guests arrive. Your dinner table should have some sort of cohesive set-up with a centerpiece and a tablecloth. The centerpiece can be anything from a floral arrangement to a few decorative candles—be creative!
DO
Have fun with place cards if throwing a nicer dinner party. They are an extra special touch, especially if they’re homemade.
DON’T Fall back on Solo cups or plain paper plates.
atmosphere Creating an atmosphere is the final step. Make a playlist in advance, and have music playing when your guests arrive. The music should be loud enough to recognize and enjoy, but not so loud that your guests can’t hear each other speak. Close the doors to other rooms in your house or apartment so clutter isn’t visible.
DO Ask friends for song suggestions if you’re stuck. DON’T Burst your guests’ eardrums with dubstep, rap, or hip-hop.
Dinner party refreshments can range from caprese skewers to watermelon mojitos. Clockwise from top left: photos from channel4.com, thefoodguycatering.com, sheknows.com, and marthastewart.com.
As your party begins, go ahead and enjoy yourself! It’s sure to be a hit—after all, you learned from the best. When in doubt, ask yourself, “Would this be acceptable at a frat party?” If so, avoid at all costs. THEWALKMAGAZINE.COM 21
On Mimi Solmssen (left): Black feather capelet, $125; black cropped top, $110; striped maxi skirt, $98; at Sugarcube. Vintage clutch, stylist’s own. On Julia Graber (right): Black tiered skirt, $170, at Sugarcube. Coral cardigan; tank top; necklace; stylist’s own.
22 THE WALK / SUMMER 2012
TIME TRAVEL Step back in time to a bygone era, an age of opulence and glamour when train travel promised luxury, romance, and adventure. Our young socialites strut through 30th Street Station in chic vintage fashion with a contemporary spin, effusing modern-day elegance in varying textures and hemlines. These ladies remind us that while moments may be fleeting, fashion is forever.
Modeled by Julia Graber ’13, Erica Sachse ’14, and Mimi Solmssen ’14 Photographed by Ayasha Guerin ’12 Styled by Celeste Courtenay ’15, Diane Destribats ’13, Ali Immergut ’15, and Sabreena Jackson ’15 Hair & Makeup by Carolina BeltraN ’15, Jazmyne Garvin-Archer ’13, and Chloe Heckman ’13 Directed by Marsha Low ’13 and erica Sachse ’14 Coordinated by DANIELle HARRIS ’14, Lynn Nguyen ’14, and Luisa Sucre ’15
THEWALKMAGAZINE.COM 23
On Julia: Red sweater, $26, at Astro Vintage. Print scarf, model’s own. Camel cape, stylist’s own. On Mimi: Persimmon dress, J. Crew, model’s own. Necklace, stylist’s own. (Opposite) On Mimi: Black feather capelet, $125; black cropped top, $110; striped maxi skirt, $98; at Sugarcube. Vintage clutch, stylist’s own. On Julia: Black tiered skirt, $170, at Sugarcube. Coral cardigan; tank top; necklace; stylist’s own.
On Mimi: Black and gold jumpsuit, $295, at Sugarcube. Silk scarf; vintage pin; necklace; clutch; sunglasses; model’s own.
On Julia: Black cropped top, $110, at Sugarcube. Patterned skirt, $28, at Astro Vintage. Jacket; white gloves; model’s own.
On Erica: Black dress, vintage Chanel, stylist’s own. White headpiece, $38, at Astro Vintage. Nude sandals, Christian Louboutin, stylist’s own.
(Top) On On Mimi: Mimi: Black Blackand and gold gold jumpsuit, jumpsuit, $295, $295, at SugarSuga.ube; silk cube. Silk scarf, scarf; stylist’s vintage own;pin; vintage pin, necklace;stylist’s clutch; own; sunglasses, necklace, model’s model’s own. own; clutch, mwn; sunglasses, model’s;own. (Bottom) On Mimi: Black feather capelet, $125; black cropped top, $110; striped maxi skirt, $98; at Sugarcube. Vintage clutch, stylist’s own. On Julia: Black tiered skirt, $170, at Sugarcube. Coral cardigan; tank top; necklace; stylist’s own.
On Julia: Sequined cardigan; sequined dress, Parker; stylist’s own. Black vintage clutch, $48, at Sugarcube. Shoes, Miu Miu, stylist’s own.
On Julia: Snakeskin dress, $98, at Sugarcube. Print scarf; shoes; model’s own.
On Mimi: Black feather capelet, $125; black cropped top, $110; striped maxi skirt, $98; at Sugarcube. Vintage clutch, stylist’s own.
ELECTRIC FACTORY MODELED BY ANDREA DE LEON ’15, DANIELLE DEBROECK ’13, AND DASHA ZMACHYNSKAYA ’14 PHOTOGRAPHED BY BONNIE ARBITTIER ’14 ASSISTED BY MELISSA FANG ’15 EDITED BY AYASHA GUERIN ’12 STYLED BY ELIZABETH ELDER ’15 AND LUISA SUCRE ’15 HAIR & MAKEUP BY CAROLINA BELTRAN ’15, JAZMYNE GARVIN-ARCHER ’13, AND CHLOE HECKMAN ’13 DIRECTED BY MARSHA LOW ’13 AND ERICA SACHSE ’14 COORDINATED BY DANIELLE HARRIS ’14 It’s time to kiss dark, drab colors goodbye. Summer is the season for vivid hues and bold patterns, so don’t be afraid to brighten up your beauty routine. Take a cue from Andrea, Dasha, and Danielle: pile on the eyeliner, experiment with color, and play up your pout with Violent Lips, temporary lip tattoos that make a statement.
(Opposite, top) On Andrea de Leon: Creature of the Night Headpiece, stylist’s own; “The Leopard” lip, Violent Lips, $15, violentlips.com. (Opposite, middle) On Dasha Zmachynskaya: Solar Flare “The Rainbow” lip, Violent Lips, $15, violentlips.com. (Opposite, bottom) On Danielle Debroeck: Star Spangled Sass “The American Flag” lip, Violent Lips, $15, violentlips.com.
34 THE WALK / SUMMER 2012
Brilliantly Affordable Beauty
HAIR | SKIN | NAILS | All services provided by supervised students. | Chestnut Street at 40th | www.JeanMadelineInstitutes.com
thewalk/FASHION
TREND wATCH SAVE
SPLURGE Stud earrings, Betsey Johnson, $30, visit betseyjohnson.com.
Vest, Topshop, $80, visit topshop.com.
Blazer, Preen, $1600, visit net-a-porter.com.
cobs Marc by Marc Ja W Spring 2012 RT
Top, Motel, $35, visit houseoffraser.co.uk.
Shoe, Aldo, $35, visit aldoshoes.com.
40 THE WALK / SUMMER 2012
Versace Spring/ Summer 2012 RTW
Skirt, H&M, $21, visit hm.com.
Pu G mp vi ILM s, sit O to RE ps 2 ho , $ p. 12 co 0, m .
Tote, Chloe, $2695, visit barneys.com.
Pants, Stella McCartney, $895, visit net-a-porter. com.
FASHION\thewalk
BY ELIZABETH ELDER
surf
Test the waters of breezy, beachy style this summer. Take inspiration from the ocean with pretty seashell prints and soft silhouettes. Bask in the glow of bright colors, fresh white, and pastels. When fashion feels like a resort vacation, what’s not to love?
SPLURGE
SAVE
Sungla ss Cutler es, an visit m d Gross, $47 rporte 5, r.com.
Acetate Aviator Sunglasses, Cutler and Gross $475, mrporter.com
Shirt, Brooks Brothers, $50, visit brooksbrothers.com. Belt, American Apparel, $34, visit americanapparel.com.
Cardigan, Ralph Lauren Purple Label, $1995, visit mrporter.com. Band of Outsiders Spring/Summer 2012 RTW
ian ichael Bast Gant by M W mer 2012 RT Spring/Sum
Pants, Tommy Hilfiger, $98, visit tommyhilfiger. com.
Shirt, Band of Outsiders, $260, visit mrporter.com.
Sa n Sa dals g , $16 Har 8, v bor isit , orv is
.co
Brogue, Florsheim, $100, visit florsheim.com.
m.
Jeans, J.Crew, $155.
THEWALKMAGAZINE.COM 41
thewalk/FASHION
TREND wATCH SAVE
SPLURGE
Sunglasses, Topman, $28, visit topman.com.
Versace Spring/ Summer 2012 RTW
W U rist vi nifo wa sit rm tch m , rp Wa or re Jacket, Bottega ter s, Veneta, $8,100, visit .co $7 m 70, bottegaveneta.com. .
Shirt, Topman, $36, visit topman.com.
Shirt, Burkman Bros, $158, visit burkmanbros.com.
a Dolce & Gabban RTW 2012 Spring/Summer
Shorts, J.Crew, $70, visit jcrew.com.
Shoe, Car Shoe, $395, visit mrporter.com.
42 THE WALK / SUMMER 2012
Shorts, Quiksilver, $21, visit quiksilver.com.
Suede shoes, Topman, $65, visit topman.com.
FASHION\thewalk
Turf
This season, tribal trends are making a roaring return. Couture comes in animal prints, bold patterns, and natural fabrics, all exuding chic safari style. Don’t be afraid to combine colors and textures for a look that’s wild but still sophisticated.
SPLURGE
SAVE ris, ard Pa m. s, Leon o Glasse it nastygal.c is $110, v
Suede top, Ava Catherside, $235, visit farfetch.com.
Bustier, Mara Hoffman, $207, visit shoplesnouvelles.com.
Skirt, kew.159, $80, visit johnlewis.com.
Sandal, Dolce Vita, $69, visit tobi.com.
rtney McCa Stella er 2012 RTW Summ
Resin bangle, Tory Burch, $145, visit toryburch.com.
Leat h Akri er tote, s neim , $2,490 ,v anm arcu isit s.com .
sum Burberry ProrRTW Summer 2012
Clutch, Nasty Gal, $68, visit nastygal.com.
Jacquard shorts, Burberry London, $325, visit net-aporter.com.
Pl Bu atfo $1 rbe rm 29 rry sa n 5, vis Pro dals it rsu , bu m rb , er ry .co
m
.
THEWALKMAGAZINE.COM 43
thewalk/FASHION
LEGENDS OF LUXURY How did up-and-coming designer Coco Chanel establish her now world-renowned fashion house? What is the origin of Ralph Lauren’s unmistakable logo? Take a look at four of our favorite luxury brands and discover how they rose to superstardom.
BY ERICA MA
BURBERRY Burberry got its start in Hampshire, England in the 1850s. In its earliest stages, the house focused on creating highend, durable outerwear from gabardine, a tightly woven, water repellent material. In 1901, Burberry introduced its logo: a knight on horseback, holding a flag that reads Prorsum, the Latin word for “forwards.” As World War I began, the British War Office commissioned Burberry to redesign military officers’ coats, which led Burberry to develop its now-iconic trench coat. The classic Burberry check pattern was used to line the coats as they grew popular among civilians after the war, and the company soon registered this pattern as a trademark. Though the brand has since expanded to include luxury goods and apparel, Burberry’s original check pattern and classic style remain instantly recognizable. The house’s recent spokesmodels include Kate Moss and Emma Watson. (Left) Burberry’s timeless logo. (Above) Emma Watson for Burberry, holding bags in the signature Burberry Check.
RALPH LAUREN Ralph Lauren launched his fashion line in 1967 with a collection of men’s ties, which were high-quality, expertly made, and wider than the typical ties on the market. These subtle innovations quickly earned the designer recognition and success. Soon after the start of his menswear line, Lauren unveiled a womanswear collection in the early 1970s. The now-legendary Ralph Lauren polo player logo first appeared on the cuff of one of his women’s suits, and Lauren began placing the emblem on all of his pieces in 1972. The brand has since expanded greatly and now includes fragrances, home furnishings. and even paint. The company’s secret to success is its ability to sell not just products, but also an aspirational lifestyle, packaged and presented in classic, immaculate apparel for men and women. (Left) Ralph Lauren himself. (Right) A vintage Ralph Lauren advertisement.
44 THE WALK / SUMMER 2012
FASHION\thewalk
CHANEL In 1909, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel opened a small hat boutique in Paris. Her sleek, simple designs, inspired by menswear, became an almost instant success. Chanel soon began designing clothing in a similarly minimalistic style. One of her signature pieces was a matching skirt and jacket that became known as the Chanel suit. Chanel No. 5 perfume was released in 1923 and has remained an iconic bestseller, recognized for its unique scent and elegant bottle design. Karl Lagerfeld took over as the fashion house’s chief designer in 1983, maintaining Chanel’s renowned reputation with his innovative designs. Today, the two interlocking C’s of Chanel’s logo are instantly recognizable worldwide. Famous spokemodels for Chanel over the years include Marilyn Monroe, Nicole Kidman, and Keira Knighley.
(Left) Coco Chanel in one of her famous hats. (Right) An early advertisement for Chanel No. 5 perfume.
(Left) An image from Prada’s spring 2012 campaign. (Right) Miuccia Prada, founder Mario Prada’s granddaughter.
PRADA Founded in 1913 by Mario Prada, this fashion powerhouse began as a small Milan store selling quality leather accessories, shoes, and handbags. Mario Prada’s granddaughter, Miuccia Prada, took over the company in 1978. She expanded the brand with a line of luxury backpacks, totebags, and other travel accessories. In 1985, she unveiled a black nylon handbag that became an overnight success thanks to its immaculate construction and sleek, understated elegance. Prada’s first women’s ready-to-wear collection debuted in 1989, and Prada stores soon opened in Florence, Madrid, Paris, and New York City as the brand’s popularity soared. Today, the fashion house continues to produce high-end apparel, shoes, handbags, and accessories. Although the brand has evolved considerably from Mario Prada’s original vision, it continues to carry on the legacy of innovative and luxurious products. THEWALKMAGAZINE.COM 45
Ménage à Trois Decked in vintage couture with modern accents, two beautiful women vie for the attention of a handsome suitor. The rich colors and touchable textures of their 1970s loungewear stand out against the grungy backdrop of their clandestine encounters. Yet this homme du jour is only the fleeting object of their affections. Their hearts truly belong to a select few men: Yves Saint Laurent, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, Alexander Wang, and Guccio Gucci, to be specific.
MODELED BY LISI CHRISTOFFERSON ’12, FILIP PRZETAKIEWICZ ’14, AND NICOLE WARD ’13 PHOTOGRAPHED BY ALEX REMNICK ’12 ASSISTED BY MAX WANG ’15 STYLED BY NURIA FRANCES ’15, ELONIA MCHENRY ’14, AND CARLYN MEHAFFEY-COY ’12 HAIR & MAKEUP BY CAROLINA BELTRAN ’15, KELSEA DOUGLAS ’15, JAZMYNE GARVIN-ARCHER ’13, ALEXANDRA MORITZ ’15, AND ROBYN RAPAPORT ’15 DIRECTED BY MARSHA LOW ’13 AND ERICA SACHSE ’14 COORDINATED BY DANIELLE HARRIS ’14, LYNN NGUYEN ’14, AND LUISA SUCRE ’15
On Nicole Ward: Polka-dot dress and matching head scarf, vintage, price upon request, at The Katacomb: Vintage. Black and gold belt, Ferragamo, stylist’s own. On Filip Przetakiewicz: Gray blazer, Prada; shirt, Ralph Lauren; white pants, Gucci; and belt, Ralph Lauren; model’s own. On Lisi Christofferson: Knit cream jumper, Ethel of Beverly Hills, price upon request, at The Katacomb: Vintage.
46 THE WALK / SUMMER 2012
On Nicole: Purple shirt, Alexander Wang, $325; yellow skirt, Yves Saint Laurent, price upon request; at The Katacomb: Vintage. Necklace, vintage, stylist’s own. On Filip: Blazer, Ralph Lauren; shirt, TopMan; jeans, April77; pocket square, Tom Ford; and belt, Ralph Lauren; model’s own. On Lisi: Blazer, Yves Saint Laurent, price upon request, at The Katacomb: Vintage. Jean shorts, Levi’s, stylist’s own.
On Nicole: Sweater, vintage, price upon request; pants, Missoni, price upon request; at The Katacomb: Vintage. On Filip: Dark gray jacket, Prada; white shirt, DaVinci; gray flannel pants, Zara; and belt, Ralph Lauren; model’s own. On Lisi: Printed maxi dress, vintage, price upon request, at The Katacomb: Vintage. Necklace, vintage, stylist’s own.
On Filip: Blazer, Ralph Lauren and shirt, TopMan; model’s own. On Lisi: Blazer, Yves Saint Laurent, price upon request, at The Katacomb: Vintage.
On Filip: Blazer, Ralph Lauren; shirt, TopMan; jeans, April77; pocket square, Tom Ford; belt, Ralph Lauren; and shoes, Gucci; model’s own. On Nicole: Purple shirt, Alexander Wang, $325; yellow skirt, Yves Saint Laurent, price upon request; at The Katacomb: Vintage. Necklace, vintage, stylist’s own. Purple pumps, Theyskens’ Theory, stylist’s own.
On Nicole: Sweater, vintage, price upon request; pants, Missoni, price upon request; at The Katacomb: Vintage. Necklace, Marni, stylist’s own.
On Filip: Gray blazer, Prada; shirt, Ralph Lauren; white pants, Gucci; belt, Ralph Lauren; and shoes, Gucci; model’s own.
On Filip: Gray blazer, Prada; shirt, Ralph Lauren; white pants, Gucci; and belt, Ralph Lauren; model’s own.
On Lisi: Knit jumper, Ethel of Beverly Hills, price upon request, at The Katacomb: Vintage. Shoes, Steve Madden, model’s own.
On Nicole: Purple shirt, Alexander Wang, $325; yellow skirt, Yves Saint Laurent, price upon request; at The Katacomb: Vintage. Necklace, vintage, stylist’s own.
On Filip: Blazer, Ralph Lauren; shirt, TopMan; jeans, April77; pocket square, Tom Ford; and belt, Ralph Lauren; model’s own.
thewalk/FASHION
O & A WITH
PHILLY’S VINTAGE COUTURE OUEEN Brooke Dillon is the owner, stylist, and all-around fashion guru behind The Katacomb: Vintage. This one-of-a-kind, appointment-only boutique in Midtown Village (1221 Locust St.) is home to the incredible vintage couture modeled in our “Ménage à Trois” shoot. We interviewed Brooke to dig up some of her best style secrets.
BY CHELSEA STELLMACH The WALK: How did you break into the fashion industry and become inspired to open your own vintage boutique?
BD: Invest in staple pieces that you will have forever or at least until you’re 30. Don’t buy junk, it’s a waste of money.
Brooke Dillon: I have always been inspired by fashion, but I had no desire to work in a typical retail job. Since I didn’t want to work in any typical environment, I created my own. The idea for The Katacomb: Vintage came to me in the middle of the night a few years ago. I drafted a sketch of what I imagined the space to look and feel like, made a list of things I wanted to do in my business and with clients, just little ideas, and voila, here we are.
The WALK: What kinds of items do you think it’s most important to splurge on? When will cheaper substitutes do?
The WALK: How and where do you go about finding your amazing vintage pieces? BD: I’ve traveled all over the world to find pieces for the shop or for particular clients of mine. I even have some pieces in the shop that belonged to some of Philadelphia’s high society ladies years and years ago. It’s a mix of amazing, beautiful, and unique in The Kat. The WALK: What are your favorite things in your boutique this season? BD: My favorite things in the boutique right now are two incredible necklaces. One is a Christian Dior from the late 70’s and the other is a YSL from the 80’s. I’m obsessed. The WALK: What’s some wardrobe advice you would like to give to the young, fashionable readers of The WALK?
56 THE WALK / SUMMER 2012
BD: Splurge on a black silk or cashmere wrap. You will use it all year round, and you should be able to keep it for a long time if you dry clean it. Also, a black pencil skirt that fits perfectly. A classic watch. An amazing pair of sunglasses. And a medium-sized handbag that can be used for any occasion—my personal favorite right now is my Celine Gourmette. I use it every day and I keep a smaller clutch inside, just in case. The things you can get away with spending less on are some jewelry, tanks, and accessory details. The thing is, I’m a quality over quantity type of person. I’ll save up to get the best of what I want. If I don’t, it’s a waste. Remember, less is always more. The WALK: Finally, as a cute little wildcard, what is your most embarrassing fashion faux pas? BD: This is an easy one! In 5th grade, my mom forced me to wear the Christmas dress she made for me to school. It was red velvet, longsleeved, knee-length, and had white fur around the cuffs and bottom. Did I mention this was after Christmas? It was. My friends still torture me about it.
W
Top: Brooke Dillon at The Katacomb: Vintage. Second from top: The Katacomb sells both clothing and home decor. Third from top: Dillon shows a charming vintage dress to an admiring customer. Bottom: Dillon mixes patterns and textures in her boutique. Photos from dailycandy.com. philly.com, and uwishunu.com.
FASHION\thewalk
THE SECRET LIFE OF YOUR
FAVORITE SHIRT
Whether it’s a silk blouse or a cotton V-neck, your clothes have a history that extends far beyond your closet.
BY DIVYA PRABHAKAR
SILK
COTTON
BATIK
CASHMERE
Silk is the cloth of royalty: soft, smooth, and expensive. Though quintessentially luxurious, this fabric has humble roots. It comes from the cocoons of silkworm larvae. These cocoons are dipped into boiling water or pierced by a needle to kill the larvae, so 1,000 yards of raw silk thread can be gathered. The silk fiber has a prism-like structure that causes it to refract light at different angles, creating silk’s characteristic sheen. This fabric was first developed in China, as early as 3500 BCE, and soon became a staple of international trade.
Cotton is known as the most popular textile in the world. The fabric comes from cotton plants, which are native to tropical regions (including Africa, Asia, and South America). The cotton gin, invented in the United States during the Industrial Revolution, separates the cotton fibers from their seeds. This machine made it cheap, quick, and easy to create cotton textiles, triggering a boom in cotton production. Cotton’s porous qualities render it light, breathable, and easy to dye, and thus an ideal clothing material for any season.
Batik prints line the streets of Egypt, Nigeria, Indonesia, India, and much of Southeast Asia. To create this textile, wax designs are applied on a basic, natural fabric (typically cotton), which is then dyed. When the dye-repelling wax is removed, it leaves behind an intricate pattern. This process is called canting. The three traditional colors of batik textiles, used to represent the trinity of Hindu gods, are indigo, dark brown, and white. The word batik comes from a combination of two Javanese words: amba (“to write”) and titi (“point”).
Cashmere, a winter wear favorite, is wool’s most luxurious form. Cashmere wool is collected from goats in the mountainous Kashmir region of the Indian subcontinent (from which the fabric gets its name) during the spring molting season when the goats naturally shed their gray, brown, and white coats. Each goat yields only about four to six ounces of wool each winter. The wool’s limited availability and the fabric’s fine texture, strength, and softness explain why cashmere is typically considered a luxury textile.
Archeologists have discovered cotton fragments in Mexico and Pakistan that date back to 5000 BCE. China is the largest producer of cotton, and the United States is the largest exporter. World production of cotton stands at about 25 million metric tons per year.
Traditionally, batik designs depict native life or mythological stories specific to the region where the fabric is created. Iwan Tirta, one of Indonesia’s most renowned modern batik designers, designed batik clothing for Ronald Regan, Nelson Mandela, Bill Clinton, and a number of other world leaders during his lifetime.
It takes a goat four years to grow enough hair for one cashmere sweater. The diameter of a string of cashmere must be under 19 microns. Compare this to human hair, which has a diameter of 75 microns.
FUN FABRIC FACTS To produce one kilogram of silk, 3,000 silkworms have to eat 104 kilograms of mulberry leaves. It takes about 5,000 silkworms to make a pure silk kimono. In Islamic teachings, men are forbidden to wear silk because it is considered feminine or extravagant.
3d printed textiles Three-dimensional printing uses ultraviolet beams to melt recyclable thermoplastic into digitally designed geometric patterns. The result of this process is a flexible textile with an almost cloth-like structure. 3D printed textiles can be made on demand, requiring little labor and no sewing and thus leaving behind zero waste. This fast, environmentally friendly, and overall ultramodern technology represents the future of fabric and fashion design. In the words of Janne Kyttanen of Freedom of Creation, a pioneering design company that specializes in 3D printing, the technology may eventually “make needle and thread obsolete.”
FUN FABRIC FACTS Design companies Continuum Fashion and Shapeways designed the first piece of 3D fabric clothing: the N12 bikini, named after the thermoplastic material it’s made from, Nylon 12. Using Continuum Fashion’s online D.dress app, costumers can draw their own unique dress designs to be made to order using 3D printing. THEWALKMAGAZINE.COM 57
ON THE
COVER
EAST SIDE STORY
We shot our Summer 2012 cover on a hazy morning at the most eastern edge of campus. Before last year, this space was just an abandoned industrial site, littered with waste and weeds. Today, the newly created Penn Park serves as an oasis of green space for student recreation and relaxation, stretching between a rusting elevated railway--a relic of Philadelphia’s more industrial era--and the steady buzz of the Schuylkill Expressway. We love the park’s refreshing atmosphere and stunning views of Center City, but the space also represents what we appreciate most in fashion: innovative construction approaches, a rich historical foundation, and a celebration of lush color and bold design.
modeled by megha jain ’12 and hasbrouck bailey miller ’12 Photographed by Ayasha Guerin ’12 Styled by Ali Immergut ’15, Marsha Low ’13, and Lynn Nguyen ’14 Directed by Erica Sachse ’14 Coordinated by Danielle Harris ’14 and Lynn Nguyen ’14 58 THE WALK / SUMMER 2012
FASHION\thewalk On Megha Jain: Blouse, Amour Vert, $134; silk shorts, Dolce Vita, $70; necklace, $100; at Vagabond. Vintage belt, Ferragama, stylist’s own. Woven gold cuff, Fair Trade India, $17; vintage patterned gold cuff, $14; at Vagabond. Gold heels, Topshop, stylist’s own. On Hasbrouck Bailey Miller: Shirt, Brooks Brothers; jeans, Levi’s; belt, Paul Stuart; shoes, Johnston and Murphy; model’s own.
THEWALKMAGAZINE.COM 59
thewalk/WALK
ON
WHAT'S HOT IN PHILLY THIS SUMMER Where to shop, where to eat, and how to stay cool despite the weather
YOGORINO 233 S 20th St and 1205 Walnut Street
BY SABREENA M. JACKSON
PIPEr
bonded
140 S 34th St.
3724 Spruce St.
Two new boutiques have opened in University City this school year: Piper (left) and Bonded (right). Both offer trendy and reasonably priced items, including party dresses, handbags, jewelry, and other fun accessories. The stores are small, which means attentive staff and manageable selections of unique items. Indulge in a shopping spree and revamp your summer wardrobe. Yogorino is the perfect way to cool off this summer. Trumping other Philly fro-yo spots, like Pinkberry and Sweet Ending, Yogorino boasts rich and creamy fro-yo, a rotating case of gelato, and toppings including (but not limited to) chocolate pebbles, coconut, fresh fruit, and gourmet sauces. It is delicious perfection in a little blue cup.
doC magrogan's oyster house
harvest seasonal grill and wine bar
3432 Sansom Street
40th and Walnut Street
La Terrasse, an Italian restaurant at 3432 Sansom Street, closed back in February 2011. This spring, it’s being replaced by Doc Magrogan’s Oyster House (left), whose menu includes an assortment of fresh seafood. Magrogan is also replacing Marathon Grill’s 40th and Walnut location with a branch of his Harvest Seasonal Grill and Wine Bar (right), a healthy-eating restaurant that uses ingredients from local farmers. Our mouths are watering in anticipation.
60 THE WALK / SUMMER 2012
chiddy bang's
breakfast
Our favorite Philly hip-hop artists have us hooked yet again. Chiddy Bang’s newest album, released in February, received rave reviews and quickly made iTunes’ Top 10 Albums list. Our personal favorite songs are “Mind Your Manners” and “Ray Charles,” addictive tunes that put a smile on your face and a spring in your step. Make Breakfast your summer soundtrack.
philly aids thrift 710 South 5th Street
Who wouldn’t want to shop at a store that strongly encourages “aimless browsing”? You may spend hours doing just that in this thrifting wonderland, and you won’t be disappointed with what you find. From pool tables to beautiful fur coats to old records to vintage heels, you will discover all sorts of surprises at Philly AIDS Thrift, whose new location at 710 S 5th Street just opened this fall. Another plus: the store donates its proceeds to the AIDS Fund and other Philadelphia area AIDS organizations, so you can feel good about your shopping addiction. While you’re there, be sure to check out the dollar room, where everything (yes, everything) costs just one dollar.
WALK ON\thewalk
SUMMER READING Whether you’re looking for a fun beach read or a gripping nonfiction tale to get you through your morning metro ride, we’ve handpicked the perfect page-turners that you won’t want to put down.
BY CORDELIA MESEROW
FOR THE SOCIALITE
FOR THE SCHOLAR
FOR THE GRADUATE
FOR THE MONEY-MINDED
THE RULES OF CIVILITY BY AMOR TOWLES
UNBROKEN BY LAURA HILLENBRAND
THE MARRIAGE PLOT BY JEFFREY EUGENIDES
LIAR’S POKER BY MICHAEL LEWIS
The Rules of Civility is a tale of friendship, love, and ambition in glittering 1930s Manhattan. Katie Kontent, the novel’s bold protagonist, and her boarding house roommate, Eve Ross, begin the story as a penniless pair. They rely on small change for meals and on their wits to earn the occasional free martini. Together, they take the city by storm, working their way into the elite doors of The Plaza and 21 Club. Through their late night gallivanting and cocktail sipping, the two girls soon fall into the arms of young, handsome investment banker Tinker Grey. Even as both Katie and Eve vie for Tinker’s heart, the three become an unstoppable team. Towles’ beautiful, Fitzgerald-esque writing makes this book a captivating page-turner.
Unbroken tells the true story of Louis Zamperini, a World War II pilot whose bomber plane crashed in the Pacific Ocean in 1943. Braving the debris of a burning plane and grappling with grief over the loss of fellow crewmembers, Zamperini and two other pilots drifted in open water for over a month, fending off sharks and struggling daily with thirst and starvation. Eventually picked up by the Japanese, the men suffered several years of unspeakable torture before the war came to a close. Unbroken is a moving tale of the trials of war, the nature of suffering, and the power of endurance. With her vivid voice and skillful writing, Hillenbrand (also the author of Seabiscuit) brings the story to life and inspires readers to never give up.
What happens to college relationships after graduation? Jeffrey Eugenides, author of The Virgin Suicides and Pulitzer prize-winning Middlesex, explores this question in his new novel about the complex nature of young love. The Marriage Plot follows Madeleine Hanna, an English major in her senior year at Brown. Despite her gorgeous looks and privileged background, Madeleine’s life suddenly gets complicated when she has to choose between two vastly different men: her senior year boyfriend, an attractive and spontaneous biology major, and her close friend and admirer, a religious studies major and aspiring theologian. Eugenides weaves the lives of the three main characters into a heartwrenching coming-of-age story.
Straight out of Princeton and the London School of Economics, author Michael Lewis earned a job at Salomon Brothers, a prestigious (though now defunct) Manhattan investment firm. Liar’s Poker is his personal account of his experiences at Salomon Brothers and of life on Wall Street during the 1980s. Charting Lewis’ rise from trainee to high stakes bond salesman, the book provides an inside look at the infamous 41st floor trading room, from its high-energy atmosphere to its fraternity-like friendships. Lewis paints quick but vivid portraits of his coworkers and describes the greedy, powerful world of Wall Street with glistening humor and wit. His sharp writing makes the book more exciting than any ECON-001 lecture.
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SENIORSENIORSENIORS SENIORSENIORSENIORS SENIORSENIORSENIORS SENIORSENIORSENIORS Although our staff is more than ready for a warm, sunny, homework-free summer—and who isn’t?—we’re not so ready to say goodbye to our graduating staff members. These eleven talented seniors have contributed all sorts of awesome content to The WALK over the years. We’re going to miss their pretty faces and their incredible skills. Au revoir, seniors! XOXO.
After walking Locust Walk for four years, our senior staff is heading off to the “walks” of the real world. Photo from UTB.
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62 THE WALK / SUMMER 2012
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1 JOCELYN TEECE
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6 ALAINA URBAHNS
Position Editor-at-Large (current position), Editor-inChief, Art Director, Layout Team Major Intellectual History and English STYLE Icon JFK, Daphne Guinness walk model crush Hasbrouck Bailey Miller Favorite WALK memory Too many to count! Every WALK memory is a favorite memory, in one capacity or another. If I were an item of clothing, I’d be… A pair of well-worn TOD’s Penny Loafers.
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2 SHAYNA MONAHEMI
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Position Creative Director STYLE ICON I’m obsessed with Taylor Tomasi-Hill. No one can layer like she can. favorite walk MEMORY Each and every WALK photo shoot. favorite walk piece The Heavy Metal Accessories shoot. How could that much jewelry draped on a single person not be the coolest thing ever? If I were an item of clothing, I’d be… Anything by Alaia.
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7 carlyn coy
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5 alex remnick Position Photographer Major Fine Arts (Photography) walk model crush Nico Ward. I basically strong-armed her into modeling for me. Favorite WALK memory #thatawkwardmomentwhen you’re on your first shoot and you find out that the male and female model used to date. if i were an item of clothing, i’d be... Light-up sneakers. Those things were AWESOME!
Position Layout Team Major Architecture Plans for next year Working at an architecture firm fashion icon My mom. She has a great sense of style. Favorite WALK piece There was a great article about a quest for Gucci shoes a while back.
9 MELISSA SCHALL
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Position Website Editorial Director, Female Style Director, Contributing Writer Major Communication Plans for next year Aspiring reporter walk model crush Whitney Mufson, my best friend who showed me how to work the catwalk. FAVORITE WALK PIECE “The WALK Around the World” (my brain child!) If I were an item of clothing, I’d be… Black knee boots with a massive heel
Position Stylist Major Visual Studies Plans for next year New York City walk model crush I’ll never tell! Favorite WALK piece The fur photo shoot—I’m obviously a huge fan.
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3 AYASHA GUERIN Position Photography Director, Photographer Major Ecological Urbanism (ENVS) Plans for next year Pursuing my PhD at NYU in American Studies STYLE icon Josephine Baker Favorite WALK memory Having the excuse to approach fashionable strangers in Berlin, and seeing their excited response to my introduction as a fashion blogger for The WALK. FAVORITE WALK PIECE “Time Travel.” The styling was amazing, the models are friends, and it was so much fun to shoot.
Position Fashion Editor Plans for next year No plans! Hopefully traveling and putting my Romance Languages major to good use. WALK MODEL CRUSH Anna-Marie Babington. And Jocelyn Teece! Favorite WALK piece The feature and photo shoot that dealt with frat stereotypes. It was innovative and relevant to Penn. if i were an item of clothing, i’d be... A classic black quilted Chanel 2.
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Position Features Editor Major English with a Cinema Studies Concentration Plans for next year Working in film development at Warner Brothers. STYLE icon Diane Kruger – she looks amazing in everything. if i were an item of clothing, i’d be... A blazer. I’m not the biggest risk taker; I keep it pretty classic.
10 hannah bender
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Position Website Senior Features Editor Major English Plans for next year Moving to NY to work in finance. STYLE icon Being asked to model for the cover. Oh wait... that only happened in my dream. if i were an item of clothing, i’d be... That gorgeous cocktail ring you love. Bold, fun, classy, and timeless. I’ve been told I’m very humble, too.
11 QUINN WERNER Position Fashion Stylist Major Communication, and a minor in Art History STYLE icon Edie Sedgwick and Audrey Hepburn Favorite WALK memory Attending my very first meeting. I had no idea what I was in for! FAVORITE WALK PIECE The graveyard photo shoot — I loved the contrast between the vintage feel of the surroundings and the fashion forward clothing. THEWALKMAGAZINE.COM 63
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she’s the one! Lenay Dunn is american Rag’s girl on the scene
check out her interview with
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