Outturn Serving up: Friday 3 April Issue 04, 2020
TUCK IN AT SMWS.COM.AU
CONTENTS Cellarmaster’s Note Andrew Derbidge.............................. 3 An experimental expression Cask BAT.7 The Big Swirl.......... 4 Malt of the Month Cask 44.116 Pirate ship in a storm.............................................. 6
Distillery feature Discover Grain – Cameronbridge.................................. 12 Ambassador’s Wrap Matt Bailey............................................ 18 Events Check out the latest listings........ 19
OUR BOTTLINGS DEEP, RICH & DRIED FRUITS
YOUNG & SPRITELY Cask No. 113.24 Attack of the killer florists! ...................................................
8
SWEET, FRUITY & MELLOW Cask No. 112.50 Boozy fruits and tobacco leaf .............................................
8
Cask No. 93.120 Cocoa and coal ............................................................................
9
Cask No. 12.32 Garden centre conspiracy sweeties ................................
9
Cask No. 59.59 Spock’s earwax ............................................................................
10
SPICY & DRY
2
4
Cask No. 44.116 Pirate ship in a storm (Malt of the Month) ................
6
Cask No. 36.168 Fruity, earthy and exciting ..................................................
14
OLD & DIGNIFIED Cask No. G4.19 Could solve any problem!......................................................
SPICY & SWEET
Cask No. 55.57 Digging up ginger .....................................................................
Cask No. BAT.7 The Big Swirl ................................................................................
10
14
PEATED Cask No. 137.6 The garden shed of England ...............................................
16
Cask No. 53.310 Kippers in slippers ....................................................................
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CELLARMASTER’S NOTE Dear Members, I write this column as fear, panic, and precaution circulates the globe in response to the COVID-19 pandemic. Who’d have thought that a roll of toilet paper would be as rare and sought after as a bottle of Port Ellen?? We live in strange times. Events everywhere are now being cancelled, “social distancing” is now a term, and everything is now aimed at smoothing the bell curve of infection. Those that regularly head out to venues to try new whisky might – shock horror – be forced to crack open and drink whisky that they’ve already got sitting on their shelf at home. And that, believe it or not, might actually be one good thing to come out of this pandemic. I’ve written about and explored such themes in previous musings, so forgive me if stray into already-covered ground, but something I personally dislike in the whisky industry at the moment is the insatiable appetite of consumers for the “new”. No sooner does a distillery or brand put out a new release, they’ve got to instantly start work on developing their next new product or repackaging/ rebranding exercise to stay fresh and relevant. Today’s new release is tomorrow’s old and forgotten bottling, and it’s criminal how many good releases and products get prematurely retired or discontinued just so the marketeers have something new to work with. And as people pursue new releases or seek to “grow their collection”, the reality is that a lot of good whisky ends up sitting on your shelf, unopened and unloved.
So if the worst doomsday predictions come true and we’re all obliged to lock ourselves in our homes for two to four weeks at a time, what old(er) bottlings do you have on your shelves at home that you’ve forgotten about and might now need to turn to? Recent illness for me rammed home the point that life is short and it was pointless having whisky set aside for a rainy day that I might not be around for to enjoy. And so I have, with an increasing feeling of liberation, spent the last while opening and drinking bottles that might otherwise have sat around. Nothing overly flash, mind you – just humble 10yo or 12yo commercial releases; a few Society bottles from previous Outturns, etc. But it’s highlighted and reminded me that whisky was made to be drunk and not be worshipped as mantlepiece furniture. May you all be safe and well during the next few months and the troubles they bring. May you re-discover whisky in your house that needs your attention. And if you should happen to run out of whisky and need to re-stock your shelves….may you remember that the Society delivers to your door! Slàinte,
Andrew Derbidge ~ Director, Cellarmaster & NSW Manager
Recent illness for me rammed home the point that life is short... and reminded me that whisky was made to be drunk and not be worshipped as mantlepiece furniture.
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AN EXPERIMENTAL EXPRESSION A sherried whisky from our Deep Rich & Dried Fruits category is one of our most popular flavour profiles, and Big Swirl is an evolution of the heavily sherried style we were pursuing with our Exotic Cargo releases. But instead of using 100% Spanish oak, this is a mix of Spanish oak and American oak cask. I love the balance that’s given it – it’s less spicy, a little sweeter but no less rich – a real sherry crowd-pleaser. I also now have our own version of a sherry solera long-term blending system on the go that I’ll use to provide the ingredients for future sherry releases, so the good news is that there’s much more sherry goodness to come from the Society. We’re not aiming for a hugely consistent style in each batch, it will be more like variations on a theme – a bit like Bob Dylan performing his back catalogue, where he never plays the same song in exactly the same way twice. ~ Euan Campbell, SMWS Spirits Manager 4
THE BIG SWIRL DEEP, RICH & DRIED FRUITS CASK NO. BAT.7
$120.00 REGION
Blended malt
CASK TYPE
1st fill Sherry hogshead
AGE
10 years
DATE DISTILLED
02 November 2007
OUTTURN
1895 bottles
ABV
50.0%
AUS ALLOCATION
120 bottles
This latest experimental expression draws from a combination of whiskies matured full term in 1st fill Spanish oak sherry casks, as well as those matured in ex-bourbon casks before over two years of marrying in 1st fill American oak sherry casks. The result is a dark, fruit forward dram with a touch of spice mix adding balance and complexity. We’re delighted to present to members of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, Big Swirl. A classical sherry profile that bursts initially with red berry compote, wine gums, freshly brewed coffee, polished hardwoods, exotic spice mix, toasted nuts, brown toast spread with treacle and walnut wine. A splash of water brings wet leaves, strawberry tobacco, muscovado sugar, rhum agricole, sesame oil, black cumin seeds, lemon peel, toasted wood, rye bread and bitter chocolate. In the mouth it’s a big swirl of dried dark fruits, menthol tobacco, strawberry wine, red liquorice, damp earth, roasted chestnuts, milk chocolate, buttermints and fig rolls. Some reduction unleashes old herbal liqueurs, mulled plum wine, coffee and walnut cake, cola cubes, cherry syrup and the lingering warmth of fruity red chilli. 5
MALT OF THE MONTH A BRAW BEAST! Distillery 44 is no lightweight. A desirable single malt output that is meaty, heavy, and full of desirable spices. Old school worm tubs, long fermentation, and rich sherry casks. Cask 44.116 is a proper Pirate ship in a storm at a whopping natural cask strength of 68.2% and in the Deep, Rich & Dried Fruits profile.
PIRATE SHIP IN A STORM DEEP, RICH & DRIED FRUITS CASK NO. 44.116
$149.00
REDUCED FROM $175
6
REGION
Speyside
CASK TYPE
2nd fill Oloroso butt
AGE
8 years
DATE DISTILLED
20 April 2011
OUTTURN
567 bottles
ABV
68.2%
AUS ALLOCATION
42 bottles
Barrels of rich fruits and sweet spice rolled from the glass like a shipment of rum and raisin ice cream on a storm-torn pirate ship. Nutmeg and cloves united with Brazil nuts, dates and prune juice to create a succulent storm that rained down a torrent of mulled wine and onion gravy. Then fudge, butterscotch and banana bread delivered rich and sweet flavours that cascaded into coffee, orange and truffle oil. With water, pine forests appeared with almonds and walnuts that sweetened into marzipan. Burnt notes of soft brown sugar and singed sultanas married with calvados before ginger and blackcurrants appeared. Finally, maple syrup balanced a finish that was dominated by pumpkin seeds, bitter chocolate and dry tree bark.
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ATTACK OF THE KILLER FLORISTS!
REGION
Speyside
CASK TYPE
1st fill bourbon barrel
AGE
7 years
DATE DISTILLED
27 October 2011
YOUNG & SPRITELY
OUTTURN
239 bottles
CASK NO. 113.24
ABV
63.4%
AUS ALLOCATION
24 bottles
$155.00
It opens on candyfloss at first, a light and fluffy sweetness that evolves towards geraniums in warm greenhouses and yellow wildflowers. The sweeter aspects continue with hints of pink nougat, American hotdog mustard, cornbread, toasted seeds and mirabelle eau de vie. Water brings softer notes of clove, lemon water, flower vases, cough drops, hessian and roasted potatoes. The palate begins with cookie dough stodge before unveiling notes of pear drops, lime oil, rosewater, cherry lip sweets, fruit loops, juicy fruit chewing gum, dried lavender and Turkish delight. A little water gives earthy turmeric, lemon thyme, oregano, sourdough starter, pot pourri and long aged yellow wine.
BOOZY FRUITS AND TOBACCO LEAF
REGION
Highland
CASK TYPE
New oak heavy char #4 hogshead
AGE
11 years
SWEET, FRUITY & MELLOW
DATE DISTILLED
19 December 2007
CASK NO. 112.50
OUTTURN
253 bottles
ABV
58.5%
AUS ALLOCATION
12 bottles
$169.00
An interesting nose - glazed plum tart, apricot jam, and stewed apple with cinnamon - eventually marzipan, grape must and tobacco leaf. The palate stirs up memories of cherry liqueur and Negroni as well as Jammie Dodgers, fig marmalade, medjool dates, candied orange peel and wine-soaked oak. The reduced nose revisits the orange and the apricot (crumble this time) and seems sweeter - spun sugar, toffee and Amarena cherries in syrup. The palate now has brandy snaps, coffee and walnut cake, chocolate and cinder toffee with a drying finish of gentle spices and oak. 8
COCOA AND COAL SWEET, FRUITY & MELLOW CASK NO. 93.120
$199.00
REGION
Campbeltown
CASK TYPE
Re-charred hogshead
AGE
14 years
DATE DISTILLED
31 January 2005
OUTTURN
277 bottles
ABV
57.3%
AUS ALLOCATION
18 bottles
Sweet aromas of Belgian chocolate waffles drizzled with honey developed into chocolate covered nougat for a start of pure opulence. Roasted coffee beans brought heavier notes that drifted between hot chocolate and chocolate milkshake, whilst a tiny element of salt suggested a ship’s decking on the horizon. An undercurrent of burnt milk proposed light puffs of smoke that coupled with baked fresh fennel to add herbal hues. Water uncovered floral tones of roses and violets with a touch of cloves. Then roasted chestnuts, pecans and pine nuts gathered alongside sweet liquorice and a hessian sack full of coal. Cocoa returned with chocolate mousse before we found smoked ham and herby sausages cooked over fresh wood embers.
GARDEN CENTRE CONSPIRACY SWEETIES SPICY & SWEET CASK NO. 12.32
$150.00
REGION
Speyside
CASK TYPE
1st fill bourbon barrel
AGE
9 years
DATE DISTILLED
29 September 2009
OUTTURN
211 bottles
ABV
59.7%
AUS ALLOCATION
18 bottles
A rather evocative and rustic aroma of mineral oils, fabrics, linens, freshly baked croissants, lemon cheesecake, wool, candy floss, strawberry foam sweets and pineapple jelly. A flying saucer full of sherbet whizzes past in the background leaving lovely chemtrails of peaches and cream. Water brings out clover, fresh grass, daisies, parsley, verbena, lemon thyme, dried lavender, heather, bath salts and fennel. On the palate we find jelly beans and babies. Lime curd, lemon infused olive oil, toasted sunflower seeds, condensed milk, crushed digestives, pink wafer biscuits, red jelly and vanilla ice cream. A little water and there’s sweet porridge, cereals, frying bacon bits in muesli, lime leaf, dandelions, geranium, cola cubes, maraschino 9 cherries, pollen, cinnamon powder and aniseed.
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DIGGING UP GINGER SPICY & DRY CASK NO. 55.57
$165.00
REGION
Speyside
CASK TYPE
Refill bourbon hogshead
AGE
10 years
DATE DISTILLED
29 September 2008
OUTTURN
281 bottles
ABV
58.4%
AUS ALLOCATION
24 bottles
We found ourselves amongst grassy meadows and fields of dry, ploughed earth with the sweet smell of pollen in the air. Buttery and creamy textures danced across grapefruit and vanilla rice pudding as notes of tobacco and leather mingled on a palate of ginger and spices. Sweet fruit jelly sweets then appeared with a glass of cloudy apple juice before we added a dash of water. We now found further spice with freshly cut flowers and the soft fruits of oranges, pears and clementines. Oat cakes joined rhubarb crumble garnished with crystalised ginger as honey melted on crumpets. Herbal notes appeared towards the finish where they were joined by thick staves of seasoned oak.
REGION
Highland
CASK TYPE
New oak heavy char hogshead
AGE
10 years
SPICY & SWEET
DATE DISTILLED
29 September 2008
CASK NO. 59.59
OUTTURN
297 bottles
ABV
55.2%
AUS ALLOCATION
24 bottles
SPOCK’S EARWAX $170.00
CIAL SPE NISH FI
There’s sweet pastries and runny honey at first. Then molten toffee, salted caramel, coconut wafers, gorse, heather flowers, talcum powder and shilling ales. A hearty dollop of fruity muesli too. A little water brings turmeric and dried thyme. A bouquet garni of herbs, shoe polish, new leather, pine cones and Earl Grey tea. Some bandages wrapped around a light sootiness and some slabs of wet concrete. The palate fizzes like lemon vitamin tablets in soda water. There’s sheep wool, soft medical waxes, butter biscuits, aged calvados, green banana, heather honey and lemon balm. After reduction there’s more warm spices, lime pith, pink grapefruit, tarragon, wax, tobacco leaf, green pepper and potpourri. Matured for nine years in a bourbon hogshead before transfer to a “number 4” heavily charred new oak hogshead. 11
CAMERONBRIDGE DISTILLERY FEATURE BY MATT BAILEY
DISCOVER GRAIN
With the release of this month’s Cask G4.19 ‘Could solve any problem!’, we thought it might be a good time to analyse grain whisky a bit more, dispel some myths, and learn more about the history of the fascinating Cameronbridge distillery. Grain whisky from Scotland is definitely Scotch whisky, but is not to be confused with single malt whisky. So what is grain then? The term normally means any whisky made, at least in part, from grains other than malted barley. This could be whisky made using corn, wheat or rye. Grain whiskies usually contain some malted barley to provide enzymes needed to kickstart the fermentation and are required to include it if they are produced in Ireland or Scotland. In Scotland (and Ireland) grain whisky is typically distilled in a continuous column still in a way that results in a higher percentage of alcohol by volume (ABV) as a more refined and simple spirit. But while it might be ‘simpler’ in character at distillation, there’s still great merit in the complexity and content of that grain in providing a delicious end result. 12
Cask G4.19 is living evidence of that. A forty year old whisky from the largest and oldest grain distillery in all of Europe. The history of Cameronbridge is a tale from two of the oldest families in whisky: the Haig and Stein families. There are records of Robert Haig being reprimanded in front of church elders as far back as 1655 for daring to distill spirit on the sabbath. Next time a distillery boasts about being early 1900’s, spare a thought for poor old Haig back in 1655! It wasn’t until 1751, however, that Robert’s great-great-grandson married Margaret Stein, and the family history would continue in spirits. Four of their sons would go on to be distillers, with the eldest, John, founding Cameronbridge in 1824. This was a shifting time in Scotch whisky production.
THE FIVE TYPES OF SCOTCH WHISKY
BLENDED MALT
Imagery thanks to Matthew Fergusson-Stewart and others
A blend of two or more single malt whiskies
SINGLE MALT Made at one distillery. Only malted barley. Distilled at least twice in pot stills.
BLENDED WHISKY A blend of at least one single grain and at least one single malt.
SINGLE GRAIN Made at one distillery. A mixture of grains. Distilled once in a continuous still.
BLENDED GRAIN A blend of two or more single grain whiskies.
John borrowed the patent still design from his cousin Robert Stein (conveniently called the Stein Still) which ramped up production for the distillery, far outpacing the growth of the Lowlands at the time, until Irishman Aeneas Coffey came along after 1831 and changed the game forever with his famous Coffey continuous still, a design that is still in use today. It was in 1865 that John Haig took Cameronbridge and eight other grain distilleries at the time, including Port Dundas (G6), Cambus (G8) and formed an alliance to ultimately control over 75% of ALL grain whisky production in Scotland. You have to remember this is peak blended whisky era, so that kind of monopoly is not to be sneezed at! This alliance, a few short years later, would end up being called The Distillers’ Company Limited (DCL) which many years later would then be known as Diageo. Such is the versatility of grain spirit, that even a large portion of brands such as Tanqueray, Smirnoff, Gordon’s gin, and even David Beckham’s ‘Haig Club’ are produced at Cameronbridge now.
So to be able to access a 40 year old single cask from G4 is not only remarkably rare and so far removed from what their usual output is, but you’re drinking something from the Haig family history in many ways, and one we hope you’ll take the time to slowly enjoy in great company. Slainté!
FEATURED THIS MONTH CASK NO. G4.19
COULD SOLVE ANY PROBLEM! OLD & DIGNIFIED
$599.00
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COULD SOLVE ANY PROBLEM!
REGION
Lowland
CASK TYPE
1st fill Pedro Ximenez hogshead
AGE
40 years
OLD & DIGNIFIED
DATE DISTILLED
28 May 1979
CASK NO. G4.19
OUTTURN
162 bottles
ABV
53.6%
AUS ALLOCATION
12 bottles
$599.00
M MIU PRE T TLING BO CIAL SPE NISH FI
FRUITY, EARTHY AND EXCITING DEEP, RICH & DRIED FRUITS CASK NO. 36.168
$249.00
Old grain whisky finished in a good sherry cask - could solve any problem! The nose evokes a sunny balcony with apple strudel, sweet olive oil biscuits, sherry, fruit leathers and Ruffle bars - heaven in a glass! The palate is mouthfilling, sweet and dry at the same time - caramelised banana flambeed in rum, cherry beer, apples, pear drops, buttery toffee and Madeira cake. The reduced nose has syrup, moist fruit cake with raisins and cherries, roasted hazelnuts and toasted marshmallows. The palate now sweet Madeira wine, chocolate, cassia bark and a bourbon liqueur. After 37 years in ex-bourbon wood we transferred this into an American oak PX hogshead.
REGION
Speyside
CASK TYPE
1st fill Moscatel hogshead
AGE
19 years
DATE DISTILLED
31 May 2000
OUTTURN
272 bottles
ABV
56.6%
AUS ALLOCATION
36 bottles
SPE FINI CIAL SH
The nose delivered plum jam, plum pie and strawberry fruit leather – fruity, earthy and exciting – dried cranberries, orange muscat, chardonnay and valinch spillage. The palate was similar – Amarena cherries in syrup, tangerines and nectarines – but we also found tobacco leaf, dark brown sugar, tree bark and cinnamon toast – a lovely mouth-filling intensity. The reduced nose involved crème brûlée, old strawberry jam, tannic red wine, shoe leather and Indonesian long pepper. The palate softened to peach melba, Tangfastics, marmalade and tawny port, with a drying finish of wood spices. After 16 years in ex-bourbon wood, we transferred this into a first-fill Moscatel hogshead. 14
15
16
THE GARDEN SHED OF ENGLAND
REGION
England
CASK TYPE
1st fill bourbon barrel
AGE
8 years
PEATED
DATE DISTILLED
10 March 2011
CASK NO. 137.6
OUTTURN
230 bottles
ABV
66.0%
AUS ALLOCATION
30 bottles
$199.00
A very lean, smoky and crisp nose at first. Things like hot bakelite, bacon fries, smouldering garden bonfires, match boxes and old tool boxes. Hints of sheep wool, cured meats, salt and pepper crisps and - unusually for an English whisky - Haggis pakora! The peat is sinewy, pure and powerful but arrives in a velvet glove. Water unveils preserved lemons in brine, antiseptic and disinfected hospital corridors. The sharpness of citrus and salinity tango perfectly. The mouth is restrained at first - simmering almost. But then bursts open with a white hot blade of peat, buckets of smouldering leaves, ashes, soot and peppered mackerel. A big mix of tar, brine and hessian. With water there’s now hints of iodine, brake fluid, WD40 and Marmite spread generously on brown toast.
KIPPERS IN SLIPPERS
REGION
Islay
CASK TYPE
Refill bourbon hogshead
AGE
10 years
PEATED
DATE DISTILLED
01 September 2008
CASK NO. 53.310
OUTTURN
275 bottles
ABV
60.7%
AUS ALLOCATION
18 bottles
$210.00
A wall of preserved lemons, brine and smoked mussels dusted with wood ash greets the nostrils at first. Then flaming hospitals, iodine-soaked gauze, sea air, rock pools, burning gorse and paint. Some notes of oysters, seawater and lemon juice follow up more gently. With water there is more iodine, mezcal, kelp, burnt rope, gravel and various ointments and medical tinctures. Kippers over a coal fire. The mouth is, as expected, a vast ocean of peat oils, herbs, seaweed, beach bonfire smoke and salty liquorice. Water adds more lemon juice, green olives, anchovies, smoked mackerel and some herbs de provence.
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THE
GOLDEN ERA
If there’s something that I am often at loggerheads with malt whisky appreciators on, it’s that I truly believe we are, right now, living in the best time ever in whisky. Let me set the scene a bit here: you’re at a whisky event. Amazing single malts, single casks, food, great company, relaxed atmosphere, welcoming room. I start pouring a single cask from distillery 29. Now depending on the audience, this doesn’t always happen, but a lot of the time I’ll hear something along the lines of “Mmm, this is great, but it doesn’t compare to this distillery’s 1960’s distillate”. Ok. Next up I might be offering up a cask from distillery 33 and it’s a 12yo, single cask, Oloroso sherry, panel approved whisky, and I might be so lucky to hear “Yeah this is great, but it’s no 1974!”. It’s a bit of rose-tinted glasses happening, and it can be all too easy to always look back at the “good old days” in whisky, which weren’t really that great as a whole. Let’s examine how... If you pine for the good ol’ days of whisky in the 1960’s, well you’re looking at a whole lot of fairly average blends and one or two great ones. Single malt was virtually non-existent at the time until Glenfiddich changed that around 1962-63. So that’s pretty limiting. So let’s go with 1970’s then? Well it’s a handful of distilleries in Scotland then, but really not many.
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How about 1980’s? Early-1980’s the SMWS kicked off, so that’s a plus, but there were 27 distilleries offering single malt whisky from their stables. Yes, just 27, and they were very uncommon to find and weren’t really appreciated. Fast forward to 2020: there are 129 active malt and grain whisky distilleries operating in Scotland now, virtually all of which either have a massive single malt brand, or a small output of interesting spirit here and there. So while I appreciate you can’t easily just pick up a core range Blair Athol, or Glenlossie, or Tullibardine, you do also have access to the world’s biggest whisky club that regularly bottles interesting casks from the widest range of distilleries on earth. So was whisky better back in the day? No, it was just different, and while we can all fantasise about cheap Black Bowmore or 1960’s Laphroaig, the reality is we’ve never had it better than right now for great single malt whisky. Cheers to that!
Matt Bailey ~ SMWS National Ambassador
CO WITHNNECT MATT bail ey@ sm
@sm ws.com ws_ . mat au t
EVENTS Here at The Scotch Malt Whisky Society we have been monitoring developments of the COVID-19 / Coronavirus for a number of weeks, and have been taking as many precautions as necessary. Whilst we are confident that we have implemented correct practices and that our members and hosts have all done their utmost to avoid any potential spread of the virus, we are well aware of the urgent need to prevent any risk of infection at this time. As a result, and guided by information and advice from medical professionals, we have decided to postpone our member experiences that were due to take place in the next few weeks around the country. The safety of our members and broader community is of paramount importance to us. Although these events were limited to between 20 and 90 people, and therefore are well below the 500 public gathering limit imposed by the federal government, we feel there is a social responsibility to protect our members, team, their families and the Australian community. The good news, however, is that our bottles are still being dispatched from our warehouse, and Australia Post is still delivering them to your door. Along with that, we have some incredible home tasting kits online should you wish to have a full Society experience in the comfort of your own home. While not being able to host gatherings for you is disappointing, and we were more than excited to crack open some incredible new releases with you, the current domestic and global situation is more important and we must work to the recommendations of medical experts. We would also like to highlight the plight of our friends in the hospitality industry during these tough times, and hope that all of our friends in all the great Partner Bars and restaurants across the country aren’t too adversely affected during what is going to be a tough few weeks of social isolation. The Society has been proudly bottling the world’s best single cask, cask strength spirits and hosting the world’s most colourful whisky experiences for 37 years, and we will continue to do so in the future. Sláinte, The SMWS Australia Team
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