AUG/ SEPT 2016
BC DINE AND UNWIND
Long Beach Island’s Original
BC DINE AND UNWIND
STAFF
CONTENT
PUBLISHER Curt Travers
Teaches Science, Assembly
20 RAIN BARREL WORKSHOP
SCOOP CITY
18 New from the Nelson’s Family
NETTIE’S COOKIN’ NOW
14 Kitchen Is the Heart of Home
The Long and Short of It
HISTORY OF SURF TRUNKS
10
Some Like It Hot, or as a Hangover Cure
THE MANY FACES OF BLOODY MARYS
6
EDITOR Victoria Ford
CONTRIBUTORS Jon Coen, Eric Englund, Juliet Kaszas-Hoch, Tim Hone, Jeff Linkous, Maria Scandale
DIRECTOR OF ADVERTISEMENT Steve Havelka
ART DIRECTOR Adrian Antonio
TYPOGRAPHY SUPERVISOR Anita Josephson
PHOTOJOURNALISTS Adrian Antonio, Jon Coen, Kyle Gronostajski, Ryan Morrill, Jack Reynolds
PRODUCTION MANAGER
22
26
28
Jeff Kuhlman
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OFFICE MANAGER
MAGICAL DOGS
Feel-Good Book Has Local Tie
Brewers Use Food Ingredients
CRAFT BEER DRINKS LIKE A MEAL
LBI WATERSPORTS
Prolong the Season on a Waverunner
LBI Menus Reflect Far-Flung Influences
THE WELL-TRAVELED CHEF
Lee Little
PRODUCTION/DESIGN Jason Cascais, Nora Devin, Diane Eilbacher, Eileen Keller, Madison McIntyre, Pattie Mclntyre
SALES ASSOCIATES Doreen Cramer, Andrea Driscoll, Cindy Linkous, Jeff Linkous, Stan Kapica, Sarah Swan
ADVERTISING ASSISTANTS Kathy Gross, Catherine Krtil
PUBLISHED BY
The entire contents of The Beachcomber are copyrighted ©2016 by The SandPaper Inc. Reproduction of any matter appearing herein without specific written permission from The SandPaper Inc. is prohibited. All rights reserved. The Beachcomber is published and delivered free on Long Beach Island through September 23, 2016. Editorial and business offices are located at 1816 Long Beach Blvd., Surf City, N.J. 08008. Phone: 609-494-5900 or 609-361-9000. Fax: 609-494-1437. Email: beachcomberlbi@gmail.com.
COVER PHOTO BY Ryan Morrill
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3
EDITOR’S NOTE DINE AND UNWIND
Dear Reader, Welcome to a very special edition of The Beachcomber! Consider this an invitation to do what Islanders do best: Dine and Unwind. Nothing brings people together quite like those two most basic of human traditions, food and drink. Whether around the table to give thanks for bounty and blessings, or lined up at the bar to raise a glass to good times, gathering to indulge our taste buds in such ways is how we create and nurture a sense of community. And, truly, this issue of The Beachcomber is a celebration of being consumers within our communities, not just of goods and services, but of life. It’s about how we eat it all up, and drink it all in. It’s about the events and subjects that excite us and unite us, wake us up and shake us up. It’s about our appetite for adventure, our craving for rich experiences, and our thirst for knowledge and understanding with which to construct meaningful lives. In these pages we’ve compiled the low-down on the area’s standout Bloody Mary cocktails; tributes to culinary artists who have shaped their crafts in notable places and in unconventinal ways; human- and canine-interest pieces; ideas about environmental stewardship; implicit permission to treat beer as a meal replacement; the history and evolution of men’s beach attire (a.k.a., “the long and short of it”); the whole scoop on the new Scoop City ice cream shop with a claim to fame; and a new source for watersports needs in Ship Bottom. There is plenty here to digest, so savor every morsel of information. (Just be sure to wait 30 minutes before swimming.) And please, turn the pages responsibly – paper cuts are no joke. Sincerely, Victoria Ford Managing Editor
Adrian Antonio
4
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FROM F ROM HAIR-OF-THE-DOG HAIR-OF-TH TO B BUFFET-IN-A-GLASS BU UFF F ET-IN-A-GLASS DINE AND UNWIND UNW
By TIM HONE n a 1964 New Yorker article, famed bartender Fernand Petiot said, “I initiated the Bloody Mary of today ... it was really nothing but vodka and tomato juice when I took it over.” His recipe? “I cover the bottom of the shaker with four large dashes of salt, two dashes of black pepper, two dashes of cayenne pepper, and a layer of Worcestershire sauce; I then add a dash of lemon juice and some cracked ice, put in two ounces of vodka and two ounces of thick
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tomato juice, shak shake, strain, and pour.” Though every bartender seems to have their own variation on the mix – adjusting spices or garnishes or liquor types or proportions – Petiot’s recipe is now generally considered a “standard” Bloody Mary. But a small sampling of the Bloody Marys, Muddy Marys, Bloody Marias and Super Marys in our area reveal a great diversity of mixes to try. One thing is clear: We have come a long way from half vodka, half tomato juice. The flavor profile of a Bloody Mary can range from savory to
The Beachcomber, August/September 2016
citrusy, from earthy to fruity to spicy. It could be smooth or pulpy, even chunky depending on how much horseradish the mixologist wants to use. With so many variations of the drink, it’s no wonder that so many of the bars in the area consider their Bloody Mary recipes trade secrets, and keep them under lock and key. Andrew Thulin, a bartender at daddy O, is willing to admit that he goes for more of an “earthy and organic flavor” with his Bloody Mary. He makes the drink with tomato juice, vodka, celery salt and pepper, sriracha
instead of Tabasco sauce – because “the pepper-based puree sauce has less vinegar than the Tabasco does” – as well as “three ingredients that I’m not telling you about.” Thulin does seem to pride himself on the “rustic” nature of his Bloody Mary, issuing two warnings to his customers. First, “I will tell you that it’s not vegetarian,” and also that “it’s hot. It’ll knock your socks off.” Hot as his Bloody Mary may be, Thulin recognizes that it is not as hot as Tuckers Tavern’s Bloody Maria, which is made
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with a jalapeño infused tequila instead of vodka. This drink is available as part of Tuckers’ $10 bottomless drink special on Sundays from 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Tuckers bartender Elise Hardin supposes that Bloody Marys are a popular brunch drink because “it’s like a hair-ofthe-dog thing. If you had a rough night the night before, it kind of gets you back out there.” Even though she acknowledges that the mythology surrounding a Bloody Mary as a hangover cure might be a placebo effect, she does believe that a good Bloody Mary mix can really mask the flavor of alcohol, which makes it an appealing hangover drink. She supposes that’s why she sells an estimated 75 percent of the bar’s total Bloody Marys during brunch. For Patrick McKelvey, a bartender at the Old Causeway Steak and Oyster House, the culture
surrounding when and how people drink Bloody Marys changes the way he makes the drink. “Because nobody’s trying to drink 12 Bloody Marys,” he said, “they should be as decadent as possible.” That’s why McKelvey says, “I like a buffet on my Bloody Marys.” This philosophy clearly shows through his handiwork. The Jersey Devil is a special Bloody Mary offered at the Old Causeway; it comes with a deviled egg and a fried oyster on top, in addition to the normal garnishes – a celery stick, Old Bay rim, and lemon, lime and olive on a skewer. These days, many of these garnishes are standard Bloody Mary fare (though the Jersey Devil is, as a whole, a unique beverage). It is not uncommon to use a celery stick as a stirrer, or to let a skewer full of olives soak in the mix, or to squeeze out a lemon-lime combination on the rim or over the ice. But there is a rich
history of the garnishes that accompany a Bloody Mary, a history that is respected at The Dutchman’s on Sundays. The Dutchman’s Super Mary makes a nod to a midwestern GermanAmerican tradition: serving Bloody Marys with a side of beer. One Bloody Mary origin story that exists alongside Petiot’s claim to have invented the drink says that early 20th-century American manufacturing workers enjoyed drinking a tomato juice-beer concoction in the mornings. Eventually this drink evolved (as is only natural, it seems) into a stronger one: half tomato juice, half vodka. But the beer was never eliminated from the mix entirely. To this day Bloody Marys are often served with a beer on the side in the Midwest. Sundays from noon to 2 p.m., The Dutchman’s serves its Bloody Marys in this special style for no extra cost. Rick Schmid, owner of The Dutch-
Ryan Morrill man’s, says a beer can help “cleanse your palate,” which is necessary after a Dutchman’s Bloody Mary. This “Schmid tradition,” handed down from Rick’s grandfather, is best described as “fully flavored.” “Like Prego tomato sauce,” Rick said, “it’s all in there.” John Beale, who makes eight gallons of Bloody Mary mix a week at the Surf City Hotel, also
believes in a recipe that includes “everything but the kitchen sink.” Beale describes his mix as “bold and spicy,” and serves the drink with shrimp, peppered bacon and cajun seasoning around the rim. This is the first summer that the hotel is open for breakfast, and Beale said the Bloody Marys are “flying off the shelf,” particularly during the 8 a.m. to noon breakfast hour. Q
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Long (and Sometimes Short) History of Surf Trunks A GOOD LOOK AT A SUMMERTIME ESSENTIAL DINE AND UNWIND
By JON COEN he surfboard has long represented youth and good times. But what about the surf trunk? Boardshorts, boardies, baggies, whatever you want to call them, represent something more specific. They represent warm weather and warm water – it’s a mix of freedom, summer time, m a y b e a hint of sexy, and youth. But the surf trunk has a long history – actually, sometimes very long and, occasionally, very short. In the early 1900s, swimwear was essentially a wool bodysuit known as swimming “costumes.” During the very conservative Victorian era, even men wore full tops, as bare chests were considered in bad taste. Keep in mind that beachgoing and swimwear were pursuits of folks
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who had money and time for such leisure activities. Common folk were probably just jumping in the river or ocean in their skivvies. By the 1930s, swim garments became more functional, incorporating nylon. Swim attire started to become a little sexier; the bikini made its first appearance and men went barechested in trunks. History points to the first trunks developed spe-
1949
1962
Richard and Pauline Lisiewski, 1949, Holgate, in likely the oldest surfing photo on LBI. Richard would go on to be inducted into the East Coast Surfing Hall of Fame. (He wore pants that day.) Courtesy of Lisiewski family
Local Dawson Smith with his new board and new trunks in 1962. You can still see Dawson ripping at local beaches, but his shorts are a little longer.
cifically for surfing going back to Doc Ball, who founded the Palos Verdes Surf Club, California, in 1935. Ball is credited among the first surf photographers. He shot photos and later film, for decades. He is said to have sewn the first trunks that were functional in the water. Soon after, a shop in Waikiki, Hawaii, started tailoring cotton shorts with a belt. One of the earliest photos of a surfer on Long Beach Island is likely Richard Lisiewski at Holgate in the 1950s with his homemade wooden board, wearing hip -hugging cotton shorts that leave his entire thigh exposed.
But surfers had to define the style further. In 1960, a boat cover manufacturer called Kanvas by Katin, in Seal Beach, took the lead in creating a durable canvas surf trunk that became the goto trunk when surfing exploded in Southern California, and then across the country. Birdwell Beach Britches followed suit. Brighton Beach Surf Shop in Long Beach Township has carried Birdwells for an impressive 50 years. In the 1970s boardshorts became something of a fashion statement in Hawaii, where Gerry
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1978
1979
1979
1990
Whether surfers chose boardshorts or cutoffs in the ’70s, they were short! Holgate crew, 1978. Courtesy of Tom Beaty
SandPaper Surf Classic. Photo by Ray Fisk
Boardshorts have always been an important part not only of surf culture, but also summer on LBI. Surfers in short trunks prepare for a heat at The SandPaper Surf Classic, Beach Haven. Photo by Ray Fisk
Always on the hunt for style, Kenny Kooyenga, former owner of Body Language, cabana boy, matching terrycloth lined boardies and shirt from Stussy. Courtesy of Kooyenga
Lopez had co-founded Lightning Bolt Surfboards. Of course, there were the surfboards, specifically designed for riding the barrel on the North Shore. They also created surf trunks. And while the specific boards weren’t necessarily functional at most beaches outside of Hawaii, the surf trunks could be worn anywhere. But none of these small sewing shops could handle a growing global demand. The big push came from Quiksilver, which was started in Australia. A surfer named Alan Green, who was working at the Rip Curl wetsuit factory in Australia, started work-
ing on more advanced boardshorts, which gained a foothold in Australia and Hawaii, giving birth to Quiksilver. It wasn’t long before Californians Bob McKnight and Jeff Hakman licensed the brand in the U.S. However, they couldn’t get the boardshorts figured out. It’s a little-known fact in the surfing world that Vince Troenic, owner of The Islanders Surf Shop in Long Branch – and one of New Jersey’s best surfers of the ’60s and ’70s – knew Green from the North Shore. Troenic ordered 86 pairs of boardshorts from Australia to be shipped to New Jersey before Quiksilver got off the
ground on the West Coast. “I had to pay a duty on them because they were coming from Australia, which made them the most expensive trunks in the shop. But I sold all 86 pairs,” remembers Troenic. Troenic then got a letter from Green, asking if he could bring a pair out to McKnight and Hakman. That year, on his way to the North Shore, Troenic stopped by Costa Mesa, Calif., and dropped off the boardies. The Quiksilver boys were finally able to get it dialed, and when they did, they changed the game. Fashion trends in the ’70s and
’80s tended to be shorter and tighter, and boardshorts reflected that. Even surfers who just wore simple cut-offs wore them way up on the thigh. Stocky former world champ Tom Carroll’s trunks got so short, you could just about see his manhood. Surf Unlimited in Ship Bottom carried Sundek trunks with the rainbow across the backside in the early ’80s. “I became really good friends with Mark Rose, who was their rep,” remembers John Gross, former owner of Surf Unlimited. “He came up one Memorial Day weekend to stay with me and
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The Beachcomber, August/September 2016
11
1990
2016
Mike Lisiewski, son of Richard, sports a classic sic trunk kb befor be before fore for e the the he sty style t le starts creeping south. Courtesy of Lisiewski family
I joked that he should earn his keep by selling Sundeks. He came out from my apartment and said, ‘I’m going to sell every single pair of Sundeks in the shop.’ He worked the whole weekend and sold every stinkin’ pair of Sundeks at $18 to $20, which was big money back then. Here was the company salesman selling the shorts out of our shop. And he went back to Florida with a whole new order.” Surf trunks got a boost in general in the late 1980s, when the entire surf industry grew in leaps and bounds. Where surf trunks were carried exclusively in surf shops until this point, now they could be found in shopping mall department stores. The now defunct surfwear company Gotcha hit $160 million in global sales in 1989, including boardshorts. “The late ’80s brought this Aussie influence that is documented on the North Shore in so many surf movies during that era,” remembered Kenny Kooyenga, who owned Body Language in the ’80s and ’90s. “There were a handful of Australian boardshort companies, my favorite of which
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was Hot Tuna. They were so creative in their advertising in Surfer mag. Their tag line was, ‘Cover your mullet,’ with old school, regular length boardies with an actual mullet protruding a solid five inches out from the short. That was a great ad.” Surf apparel sales waned in the 1990s. But where the industry shrank, boardshorts grew. With the emergence of hip hop music culture and Michael Jordan’s lengthened basketball shorts came a trend toward longer and baggier. Fashion followed, and so did the surf trunk. By the late ’90s, trunks had outseams up to 23 inches, but they also hung lower on the hips. Just as the first surfers had eschewed the establishment with their styles, younger surfers drove their parents crazy. Whereas a generation earlier had no problem showing off the full thigh, surfers of the ’90s wore trunks to their knees yet left some butt cleft in the sun. “The late ’90s were all about the fashion designers coming into the surf scene – like my friend Shaun Stussy, who really brought some unique style to the surf
The Beachcomber, August/September 2016
While the trend elsewhere goes shorter, New Jersey surfers ‘wear what they’re going to wear, wear regardless.’ Photo by Kyle Gronostajski
scene,” added Kooyenga. Boardshorts generally represented freedom from a wetsuit. As short, long or awkward as boardies ever were, they were more comfortable than rubber. About 10 years ago, the surf industry felt boardshorts could be more technical. And so they began designing shorts that were stretch, and then super stretch, from two-way stretch to four-way stretch, Coconut-fiber stretch and ultra stretch; super technical, biomimic and antimicrobial. There were hybrids – boardies that looked like walk shorts but performed like trunks. Some of the new tech facets made sense, like fast drying and durable stitching, but why does a boardshort need to be water resistant? The longer lengths lasted through the 2000s before fashion began dictating a switch. “It was about six or seven years ago that the trend started to go toward a shorter short,” said Brian Farias, whose family has owned Farias Surf and Sport on the Island for nearly 40 years. “But it’s funny. You’ll see these
extreme trends in Australia or Southern California where shorts start creeping up the leg. But New Jersey surfers follow those trends now. They feel more comfortable in a longer short, and they wear what they’re going to wear regardless of fashion.” Outseams got as short as 17 inches. But surfers often buy boardshorts based on length and fit over the colors, graphics or materials. Farias sees taller men come in who specifically ask for longer trunks. “I rarely carry anything shorter than 18 inches; 19 inches is pretty standard. A lot of East Coasters are stocky, and showing off the thigh isn’t a good look. We all love Jetty because they’re a local brand, but they do well in our shop because their trunks are 20 inches.” Boardies should be nicely worn in by August. Maybe they have wax melted into the pocket and pizza stains. Maybe they’ve been slept in. The boardshort has changed dramatically, but there are few things better than paddling out in nothing but a pair of Q trunks.
The Beachcomber, August/September 2016
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Kitchen Is Heart of Home For ‘Nettie’s Cookin’ Now’ SINCE CHILDHOOD IN BEACH HAVEN PARK, A PASSION BLOSSOMED S DINE AND UNWIND
By VICTORIA FORD ood is love. Annette Palermo of Nettie’s Cookin’ Now is a home cook and food blogger, with a heart made for hospitality, and a hug to write home about. She’s a sauté chef at Bistro 14, and she invites viewers on her various social media platforms to “get cradled in her ladle of love.” In taking her passion from the privacy of her kitchen to the blogosphere, Palermo has become part of “a massive trend – and thank God,” she said. The online world has provided a platform for “so many great unknowns,” and launched careers for every kind of culinary artist, from home cook to pro and everyone in between. Palermo’s decision to pursue her lifelong foodie dreams came when, after raising her kids in Bergen County and returning to her childhood home in Beach Haven Park in 2013, the timing was finally right. Three or four years ago she bought the domain name nettiescookinnow. She then spent a couple years developing that identity – going public with a beloved family nickname – and building an audience for it on social media. Becoming “Nettie” and letting people in to her private world is “a big step for me,” Palermo said. When her kids were young, she never wanted to get into restaurant cooking (although her dad’s family had restaurants in Trenton) because she feared the hours would interfere with her parenting responsibilities. Her priorities were at home. But two summers ago she found herself in a position to give the restaurant industry a try. While she has had no formal culinary training, she secured a place in the kitchen at
F
14
Ryan Morrill Bistro 14, where her real education in cooking has been under the tutelage of owner and Executive Chef Rich Vaughan. Her experience there has expanded her knowledge base and practical skills, she said. Working with Vaughan has opened her eyes and a lot of doors for her. “I’m a sponge,” she said. For one thing, she has learned a successful dynamic in the kitchen is built on trust, good communication and the ability to remain calm under pressure. In 2014 she had the “crazy experience” of competing on a cooking show called “On The Menu,” mentored and judged by Chef Emeril Lagasse. This year, her recipe for cannellini bean soup was published in the March issue of A Taste of Home / Simple
The Beachcomber, August/September 2016
& Delicious, which was “thrilling,” she said, “because I’ve always wanted to be a regular contributor to a food magazine or food column.” For now, she fulfills her writing and publishing needs with her blog, ncnfoodie.wordpress. com. Her aspiration to become a private chef is an outgrowth of her blog and social media brand. Ultimately she hopes to create something for her kids – a legacy. “Although I love the experience and knowledge I have gained working at Bistro 14, my goal was never to work in a restaurant,” Palermo said. “I created Nettie’s Cookin’ Now so I could cater to smaller groups.” Essentially, NCN is about home cooking and hospitality. A natural hostess, she loves to provide service and
individualized attention. Her specialties are intimate luncheons and dinner parties, cooking lessons, classes and demos. She enjoys the idea of having her own small eatery someday, a place where people return again and again because they are treated like family. The path that led her to a career in cooking was roundabout. At 18, Annette, a skilled player of flute and piccolo, was accepted into the Marine Corps Band. She had her son Alec at age 20 and daughter Elise two years later. After serving four years in the service, she raised her kids mostly as a single mom, working in administrative capacities, naturally gravitating to supporting roles, forming loyal relationships, al-
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Ryan Morrill ways noted for her caring, attentive ways. And through it all, she loved to cook. As a mom with limited resources, she gained strength from challenges, learned to be creative and economical, and refined her cooking skills by feeding her kids “deceptively delicious” dishes they thought tasted too good to contain vegetables. “I lied to my kids all the time,” she said with a shameless giggle. “Was there spinach in there?” “No ma’am, certainly not.” *** In her personal endeavor, what the last three years have shown her, she said, aside from how hard it is to build that client base, is that private chef service is a unique niche and not many people seem to be familiar with how it works – e.g., rates are based not just on the cost of food but also the chef’s time, in designing and planning the menu, correspondence with clients, prep work, travel and the task of creating an atmosphere. (There’s that theme of hospitality again.) In working to cultivate her audiences and build a name for herself, she finds “the social media piece is always the most time consuming.” Of course it’s also very photo-forward. We eat with our eyes first, she said. As a culture, “we’re obsessed” with food pictures. Her blog is mainly her recipe clearinghouse, where she keeps the directions concise and easy to follow, the range of subject matter open – whatever she’s in the mood for, whatever she
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needs to use up before it expires. One day it might be a “kitchen sink stew,” because it calls for everything-but-the. Another day it might be a more carefully thought out lemon “bomb” cod and citrus pilaf combination (see recipe, this issue). The education component is big, she said. She wants cooking to be less daunting, more accessible to everyone. A lot of her meals are simple affairs, perfect for weeknights, often using a single pot. More than anything, it’s “time management,” she said. The skill of good timing is one that certainly translates to restaurant work, which she described as both difficult and joyful. Without the ability to connect directly with the end user, the sweetest reward comes in the form of compliments conveyed by servers. But nothing compares to seeing a guest’s wide eyes and hearing the pleasure-filled sounds of appreciation firsthand. *** On a recent sweltering summer day, Palermo laid out a fine, midday spread to accompany a long chat. The entrée: baked frittata, a family favorite. Palermo considers it “a perfect one-dish meal,” a go-to that always changes depending on what’s available. This day, the frittata was in good company, with a bowl of fresh fruit salad (strawberries, raspberries, blueberries and grapes) and a cheese plate offering ricotta salata (a dry, firm snacking cheese), asiago and parmesan; cherry
The Beachcomber, August/September 2016
fig marmalade and truffle lavender honey from Iron Chef Jose Garces’s restaurant Amada, in Philadelphia; and, for washing it all down, crystal pitchers of cucumber-infused water and freshly brewed herbal iced tea, chilled with ice from her dad’s parents’ ice bucket. As if the food items alone weren’t impressive enough, the table was set with generationsold linens and tableware, sentimental silver, elegant ice bucket and glassware embellished with the family name, all intentionally arranged to be as welcoming as possible. “This is what I am truly about,” she said. “To me, the experience of dining together, not just grabbing a bite or eating a meal, but dining – that’s love.” Throughout her life in that very house, she has felt the “massive presence” of positive energy surrounding a table full of food, even when the number of loved ones gathered around the table is relatively few. The table is where news is shared, life lessons are given, problems are worked out, and memories are made. And food invokes memory. She’ll never forget the first care package she received during boot camp that contained her mom’s homemade Sicilian fig cookies. She was transported to childhood, when everyone had a job to do in the kitchen, from grinding the ingredients (figs, raisins, nuts), to mixing it all together with the honey, to rolling out the sweet dough. Smells,
textures and tastes are powerful triggers. One bite, and “I was home.” *** She moved back to LBI with her two grown kids to help her mom after her dad passed away in 2013. The original 1940s Cape Cod (complete with knotty pine, and one of the few Island houses with a basement), three houses from the beach, is where generations of history and memories around the table are written into the walls. Her mom, Ann, is “a tremendous baker and cake decorator.” Dad, Phil, who lived to age 87, was a petite man whose daughter describes him as larger than life, with a strong presence and a brilliant mind. A Corpsman in World War II, he studied at Temple and Princeton, taught high school physics and enjoyed ballroom dancing with his much younger wife. He was featured in an early episode of the PBS series “Driving Jersey” (written, shot and produced by Southern Regional alumnus Steve Rogers). Annette’s sister Michelle is a seamstress and costume designer in San Diego, Calif. Since her father’s death, grieving has been a slow and difficult process that is far from complete. Reestablishing her sense of place back at home is an ongoing project. But just like in times of celebration, in the face of life’s challenges, “cooking brings happiness to me and to my family,” she said. Cooking is what grounds her, provides comfort, facilitates healing and keeps her perspective properly aligned. Entertaining and nourishing friends and loved ones bring her peace. It started in childhood. “As soon as I could reach the counter, I was chopping, stirring,” she said. “I was on a step stool.” Growing up, Sunday was for sailing, Sinatra, spaghetti. Her dad’s family had come from Sicily; her mom’s heritage is Lithuanian and English but she learned a lot about cooking from her motherin-law. It’s all “such a beautiful mix,” Palermo said. “Everything I am, my parents gave me,” she said: her love of music, food, science, art, nostalgia, refinement – it all ties together. In many ways, her “influences” as a chef are more biographical than geographical. And she wears her Italian genes as proudly as her apron. Q
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The Beachcomber, August/September 2016
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Scoop City’s Story Begins With Nelson’s Ice Cream CHOOSE FROM 37 FLAVORS DINE AND UNWIND
By ERIC ENGLUND ary Ann Petitte picked a good summer to open an ice cream parlor called Scoop City, at 307 Long Beach Blvd. in Surf City. Since serving customers on July 1, the area has had steady hot weather, with temperatures most of the time above normal. “Many people who have tried us out have come back,” said Petitte. “That’s very encouraging. We’ve had good summer weather, and people sure like eating ice cream when it gets hot.” But what makes Scoop City almost unique is that it is a seller of Nelson’s Ice Cream, which is a big name for ice cream lovers in Pennsylvania. “There’s only one other place in New Jersey that’s sells Nelson’s, the Whistle Stop in Waldwick,” said Petitte. At Surf City, she has 37 flavors of hard ice cream, with some special concotions such as banana peanut chip, chocolate raspberry chip and a “graham slam,” which is made of graham crackers and caramel. “We don’t change flavors each week; we’re keeping the same ones all the way through,” said Petitte, adding that Scoop City also offers take-home cartons, ice cream cakes and specialty cones. “I want it to be a very familyfriendly place,” she said. “On the back wall, we have a lot of photos of our customers.” The store is located in the building that used to house a business she co-owns, Petitte Home Furnishings. “We moved everything from here to our other store in Beach
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Haven, to make room for the ice cream store,” she said. So how did she go from selling furnishings to ice cream? It all started a little more than two years ago when her brother-inlaw, Jay Vigdor, became president/CEO of Nelson’s Ice Cream. The roots of Nelson’s go back exactly 100 years, as the business was started as a dairy in Pennsylvania in 1916 by Ellis A. Nelson, great-grandfather to the current owner, David Nelson. Ellis Nelson operated the dairy in Royersford with his son, J. Arthur Nelson, who delivered their milk door to door. By 1920, his business had grown to such an extent he increased his herd to between 50 and 60 head. The growth continued, and Ellis decided to sell the farm and develop the milk business. In 1923, father and son purchased a building in Royersford and turned it into a pasteurizing and bottling plant. Today it remains the headquarters of the business. During the Depression, while
The Beachcomber, August/September 2016
many businesses were struggling and expanding was unheard of, Nelson’s added the manufacturing of ice cream. After serving in the Navy during World War II, Donald Nelson joined the family business as president of the newly formed Nelson’s Ice Cream. At the time, Americans were consuming more than 20 quarts of ice cream per year, and it was considered as American as baseball and apple pie. For example, “Floating Ice Cream Patrols” were on ships for troops during the war, and the country even celebrated with ice cream when the war ended. As a result, the plant was enlarged with a modern addition in 1950, with more remodeling in the ensuing years. The ice cream business continues into the 21st century as a family business with David Nelson becoming plant manager in 1985, and president three years later when Donald Nelson retired. Today, Nelson’s uses the same process form the 1950s and still packages by hand. The mix is not purchased but made on site. The milk is straight from the cow, delivered to the factory for pasteurization.
Vigdor said Nelson’s is the largest supplier of ice cream and mixes in the Delaware Valley. “We work with a lot of momand-pop stores,” he said. Vigdor, who has a summer home in Holgate, said a key to the business’ success is that the ice cream is 16 percent butterfat, which he said ensures a very rich, creamy flavor. “It’s an 80-year-old recipe, so we’re not going to mess with success,” said Vigdor. “You can really tell the difference between Nelson’s and other brands.” He said he joined Nelson’s at a time when he was in need of a career change. He had been in the real estate business for nearly 40 years and in the mid-1970s was a Beach Haven police officer. “Nelson’s has a cult following in Pennsylvania, and I’m very glad that we’re making some inroads on Long Beach Island,” he said. “I’m confident it is going to be very successful there.” Hours are 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. seven days a week. After Labor Day weekend, Petitte plans to stay open on weekends through October. The telephone number is 609Q 494-1004.
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Earth-Minded Gather To Build Rain Barrels, Conserve Resources SCIENCE, ASSEMBLY S DINE AND UNWIND
By JULIET KASZAS-HOCH light rain fell, fittingly, just before a dozen local residents met at the Barnegat Light Firehouse earlier this month to build rain barrels, a hands-on happening sponsored by Long Beach Township in partnership with the N.J. Department of Environmental Protection’s Water Resources Program. “Recycling rainwater is the easiest way to be a local steward,” said township Sustainability Coordinator Angela Andersen, who conceived these workshops a few years ago to aid residents in constructing rain barrels for their own yards, to “reduce runoff into the bay and conserve one of our most precious resources – water!” As NJDEP’s Katie Ribsam explained further to the mid-August event attendees, the barrels help keep rainwater from the roadways, where it carries pollution into storm drains and, subsequently, into waterways. “The storm drain is a direct connection to the bay” on LBI, Ribsam noted. In addition, while the water we drink from our taps is highly treat-
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ed, “our plants don’t need that,” said Ribsam. “Our plants like the rainwater. … This is another way for us to create and extend sustainability in our communities.” OceanSpray donated the 55-gallon, high-density polyethylene barrels for the workshop participants. (Food-grade barrels are best for those who want to build a rain barrel at home.) “This one smells grape-ish to me,” observed Ribsam, who had previously cut a 10-inch square in the top of each barrel, where the rain will pour in, either from a gutter downspout or straight from the sky. The holes fit an aquatic plant basket, ordered online from The Home Depot or Lowe’s; the basket is wrapped with a 20- by 20inch piece of mesh screening before placement in the hole, to control mosquitoes. “This is your first line of defense,” Ribsam explained. Additional deterrent tactics include periodically placing half a mosquito dunk – a doughnut-shaped object made of a bacterium that kills mosquito larvae (and black flies), available at hardware stores – into the barrel, or dropping in a tablespoon of vegetable oil, which creates a film
The Beachcomber, August/September 2016
Photos by Jack Reynolds on top of the water. “That’s a good natural trick,” said Ribsam. “In my rain barrel, I do all three things.” Prior to inserting the meshwrapped basket, the workshop participants drilled two holes into their barrels, one for the overflow and one for the faucet. The hardware was wrapped with plumbers’ tape and sealed with a bit of silicone caulk. Homeowners can connect a hose to the overflow, or simply use the faucet to pour the collected rainwater into a watering can. (The faucet is near the bottom of the barrel, to ensure most of the water will come out, so Ribsam advised building a platform, or using cinder blocks or bricks, to keep the barrel raised off the ground so a watering can or bucket will fit underneath.) The overflow piece, installed closer to the top of the barrel, was also fitted with a small piece
of mesh screen on the inside, so mosquitoes can’t fly in through the hole should a hose not be connected at all times. According to a Rutgers New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station rain barrel fact sheet, available online at njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs/publication. asp?pid=FS1118, “The overflow from a rain barrel can be directed to a pervious area (an area where rainwater can infiltrate into the ground) such as a lawn or garden and help replenish ground water supplies.” While a rain barrel is most often placed under a gutter’s downspout next to a house, garage or shed – which requires some planning to determine how to configure the downspout and where the overflow will be directed – it will collect water, just not quite as fast, even if not near a structure.
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“A large roof is not needed to collect a significant amount of rainwater,” the fact sheet adds. “Approximately 90 percent of the rain events in New Jersey are 1.25 inches or less. A home with an 800 square foot roof area, in a 1.25 inch rain storm, will drain approximately 600 gallons of water from the roof. The average rain barrel holds 50 gallons of water. To maximize the amount of water collected, multiple rain barrels can be connected together to transfer rainwater from a full barrel into empty barrels.” High Bar Harbor resident Mimi Petka is looking forward to using the water collected in her rain barrel for her plants, and to clean her car. She noted the importance of water conservation, and mentioned drought conditions in parts of California. “I firmly believe that we will run out of water, not in my lifetime, but eventually,” she remarked. Mackenzie Bott, 10, of Ship Bottom attended the workshop with mom Jen. Mackenzie – who could fit through the top hole of her bright-blue rain barrel, which was a tremendous help in installing the hardware – said the barrel was fun to make. The Bott family plans to use their rainwater for the flowers, tomatoes, sugar snap peas, cucumbers, flowers and plants in their yard and home. “I think this is a great opportunity to learn about the importance of stormwater on LBI, and a way to conserve,” Jen Bott noted. Long Beach Township installed a rain barrel, painted by first-graders at the Ethel A. Jacobsen Elementary School, outside the municipal building last
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Photos by Jack Reynolds year, via a Garden Club of LBI grant. “By making town hall a little greener, we are leading by example and taking small steps that have a big impact on the community, and on the quality of the environment, especially when we all follow suit,” said Andersen. “Harvesting and recycling rainwater is a simple way to reduce water consumption, and it helps to keep runoff from entering the bay.” The average New Jersey resident uses about 100 gallons of water per day, and more in the summer. By installing just one rain barrel, it is estimated that a homeowner could save about 1,300 gallons of water during the peak summer season. “Rain barrels,” said Andersen, “are a great community tool to educate everyone on how to live a little greener, to get connected to the rhythms of our ecosystem.” Q
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Open 11-11 307 N Long Beach Blvd, Surf City The Beachcomber, August/September 2016
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Passports, Pasta, Pacific Rim and ‘Pango’ Shrimp LBI MENUS REFLECT TALENT OF WELL-TRAVELED CHEFS L DINE AND UNWIND
By JON COEN here was a time, not long ago, that prime-rib and crabcakes ruled Long Beach Island. Seafood was either deepfried or broiled. The same three domestic beers dominated every bar. Spaghetti was considered ethnic food and pretty much every appetizer came with drawn butter. But things are different now. Our culture in general has become more adventurous in what we eat, but it’s extremely evident on LBI, which long held on to very basic meat (land or sea) and potato traditions. And a lot of that has to do with chefs who have passports and the seasonal nature of resort towns.
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Jack Reynolds
“When I first started working in restaurants by the shore, I realized there was no work in the winter. So I wound up traveling somewhere else to find work,” said Jeff Alberti, 38, executive chef for the restaurant triumvirate of Plantation in Harvey Cedars, Daddy-O in Brant Beach and Tucker’s Tavern in Beach Haven. “I started spending the winters at ski resorts. Out at Jackson Hole, I learned about game meats like
The Beachcomber, August/September 2016
wild boar and venison. When I worked in Tahoe, I learned how to roll sushi. I met a Brazilian girl out there and moved to Brazil for a few months. I just fell in love with the food there.” He was then hired as the chef on a billionaire’s private yacht. “We’d be all over Central America and the Caribbean. We’d come into a port and pro-
“JUST ARRIVING AT A PLACE AND GETTING CREATIVE WITH THE LOCAL INGREDIENTS REALLY INFLUENCED MY COOKING”
vision up with whatever local ingredients there were, and that’s what I’d cook with when we were cruising. Just arriving at a place and getting creative with the local ingredients really influenced my cooking.” He got well versed in Caribbean, Latin and Spanish food, a perfect fit, considering Plantation’s Caribbean theme. Today, his menu is a reflection of his travels: ceviche (different variations of raw fish cured in lime juice); coconut gnocchi; wild boar tacos with salsa dojo and “Pango” (papaya and mango) shrimp. “People are definitely responding,” he said.
Courtesy of blackeyedsusanslbi.com Chris Sanchez and wife, Ashley Pellegrino, owners of Black Eyed Susan’s in Harvey Cedars (ranked 10th in Zagat’s Top 50 Restaurants in New Jersey last year), both traveled the world extensively during their winters away from LBI, bringing back all manner of spice and inspiration. The increasingly popular Shore Fire Grille owner, Tim Kohlheim, claims that all he knew was pizza and Chinese when he left this area for Florida in his teenage years. He got a business degree from University of South Florida and attended culinary school at a county college, but BBQ turned out to be his post grad work.
Ryan Morrill
“ T h e r e would be pickup trucks on the side of the road with three dudes slinging old family recipe BBQ and sides. It was some of the best stuff ever. No one was doing that here and only a few are now, like us and Smokey’s BBQ next door in Surf City,” he observed. “In Tampa there was a huge Cuban population and all this Cuban food. I was craving the pressed Cuban sandwiches so hard when I got back that I just started making a crazy good one myself.” Today the Mojo roast pork topped with pit ham, Swiss, pickles, and honey mustard mayo on a pressed panini is one of the top three items ordered off the menu. For Chef Francis Pons, a native of the South of France, it wasn’t so much where he had traveled, but where he grew up. Pons spent three years at culinary school learning classical French cuisine.
Courtesy of alittlebiteofitaly.com In 1998, he met an American traveler who offered him an executive chef position in NYC. Eventually he decided to stay in the states and met his current wife,
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The Beachcomber, August/September 2016
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Deb. When she lost her job at a bank in the wake of 9/11, together they bought Little Bite of Italy from a friend a decade ago. While classical French delights were his background, Pons had traveled and been schooled in the culinary arts all over Europe. He spent plenty of time on the Mediterranean, and he learned baking while in Munich. After much effort and a four-year battle with the town of Surf City, he brought his French experience into a full 25-seat restaurant called Fracis’ in the back of Little Bite, where “le menu” consists of items like foie gras, escargot, ballotine, and duck breast. “We have a very supportive following. People who like French food bring good wine,” he laughed. “I have regulars who come every week in the summer. I go out at the end of the night, chat, and drink wine.” Surfer Eric Magaziner, who is co-owner of Mud City Crab House and neighboring Old Causeway in Manahawkin, and the Black Whale in Beach Haven, didn’t go to culinary school but got a degree
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The Beachcomber, August/September 2016
in small business with a hospitality focus from Stockton University. His education came more from traveling, as early as age 19 in Barbados. “I was surfing and eating fish cutters and Bajan hot sauce. There was an Indian influence. Getting turned on to that was amazing. It doesn’t have to be cutting edge culinary. It just has to be real,” he explained. While working at Ship Bottom Shellfish in the ’90s for the Nugent family, with whom he would eventually partner in the local restaurant business, Magaziner
spent several winters working at the Hanalei Gourmet on the Hawaiian island of Kauai. “That’s where I learned a lot of Pacific Rim cooking. I learned to cut fish for sushi, a little Thai food, and using tropical fruits,” added the lifelong waverider. “Surfers are naturally drawn to the Caribbean, Mexico and the Pacific Islands. That’s where we love going, and that’s the food we want to eat,” he said. He’s also been to the Canary Islands and learned about breads, wines and cured meats in Europe. Magaziner adds that anyone can Google a foreign recipe. But unless you’ve eaten the dish in the context of its origin, it’s hard to get the same experience to create it. “It all translates back to the restaurants. And I don’t even present it as, ‘this is a Bajan or Mexican dish.’ It can just be these subtle things you pick up and incorporate to add a little taste.” In addition to an appreciation for different flavors is the locavore movement: sourcing local food. It’s fresher, tells the story of our own area, and is more ecologically sound. One thing that all of these chefs have in common is that they’ve learned to incorporate our locally grown or caught food sources into dishes that they’ve picked up in their sojourns. Alberti has found that golden tilefish that comes into Barnegat Light works great in a ceviche with jicama, which he encountered on Pat Johnson the Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico. Pons uses local flounder with Yukon potatoes in a champagnevinaigrette with asparagus. Magaziner’s grilled local sword and tuna sandwiches are garnished with a sauce reminiscent of West Indies flavors. Carved roast beef sandwiches, steamed mussels and giant slices of pizza will always be a part of the LBI experience. Yet having those who cook your food bringing back influences from around the world is certainly making dining more fun on this Island. Q
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Savor Summer Longer With LBI Watersports
NEW OWNERSHIP N DINE AND UNWIND
t’s not over till it’s over, and then there will be weekends for a bit longer. Immersed in summer is the best way to experience that fleeting season, and late August into September calls for extending the freedom of another waverunner ride, more crabbing when the crabbing’s good, another fishing memory with the family. Days on the water are the business of LBI Watersports, under new ownership this summer by a friend of the former owner. Sean Cochrane and family will have the rental and sales business in Ship Bottom open daily through Sunday, Sept. 11, and weekends thereafter through Sept. 25. The bayfront spot at 2601 Central Ave. couldn’t be more centrally located, adjacent to the public fishing and crabbing pier into the bay. In fact, that’s how the Troiano family from Westchester, N.Y., chose the spot for a ride on personal watercraft one Thursday afternoon. They were passing by on the bayfront roadway when they spotted it. The shopfront always
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has displayed an inviting array of fishing poles and dip nets, crab traps, water toys and rows of kayaks and power vessels. Cochrane is keeping the business primarily the same, in what is a newly redone building post-Superstorm Sandy. He is also a U.S. Army Reserves truck driver and a veteran who has done two tours of duty, one in Iraq and one in Afghanistan. “When I came home from Iraq in 2010, I worked here for the summer and then again in the summer of 2011, and I would fill in when I came down to visit because I was friends with the owner,” he said. He has been coming to Long Beach Island “for as long as I could drive,” he said. “I would come down and fish at the lighthouse year ’round, pretty much.” The trip wasn’t from far away, Pemberton. “That’s why I was able to come down so often. We would take trips at 4 in the morning; we’d wake up and get there for early-morning fishing.” Outside are pontoon boats, 16-foot Carolina skiffs for crabbing and
Ryan Morrill fishing, single and tandem kayaks, Wave Runners, and junior kayaks so the little kids in the family can paddle themselves (until they need the tow rope if they get too tired.) “We cater to people who are going to be on the boats, but also because we have the public pier right here, it helps us because we have a lot of traffic. People are in here for bait, and they’re buying crab traps, and they’re buying all kinds of supplies.” Customers can rent or buy fishing poles and crab traps. The store carries an ample line of fishing and crabbing supplies, bait
The Beachcomber, August/September 2016
and tackle, equipment for watersports, and the needed snacks and cold drinks. The new owner will be expanding a few lines next year. The surprises on the south wall are the fine art photography prints of Carolyn Cochrane, the store owner’s sister-in-law. Seashells on beach sand backed by turquoise water capture the essence of the shore. Prints are $35. For prices of boat rentals, stop in and look at a brochure, or they’ll explain the time options. Cochrane’s wife, Shannon, is in the business with him, and daughter Samantha is often onsite helping
customers as well. The water is warm in September. Whether making waves for a thrill or floating where time stands still, the bay beckons in this later season. Cochrane knows from past experience that it will probably be fewer kids, who are back in school, and more adults without kids who walk in the door. “Some people wait until September,” he said. “We’ll be there for them. “We’re a family-friendly business, and we try to take care of everybody.” For more information, call 609-494-8100 or visit lbiwaterspor ts@yahoo. com. — Maria Scandale
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CRAFT BEER GOES BEYOND THE BEVERAGE ZONE .... FOOD ADDS DIMENSION AS BREWING INGREDIENTS DINE AND UNWIND
By JEFF LINKOUS eer is food. Yes, really, it is. These days, beer is as much about food as it is drink, and we’re not talking about pairing a glass of your favorite ale with, say, porchetta on your plate. It’s more like making the flavor pairings on the recipe drawing board, before the beer is ever brewed. Peaches and berries, peppers and gourds, root and vine vegetables, freeze-dried ice cream, peanut butter, chocolate, cocoa, vanilla bean, sugars and spice and more ingredients too good to
B
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just be called nice … They’re all showing up in craft beer these days. Sound nuts? Well, it’s that, too: pecans, chestnuts, walnuts, pine nuts, hazelnuts … doughnuts. D’oh! How’d that get in there? But, wait, don’t count it out (see Rogue Brewery’s lineup for what that’s all about). Amid that cornucopia, and with an experimenting way of thinking, non-traditional ingredients – whether dug from the ground, gleaned from the tree, hewn from the stalk – steer brewers in directions that let their beers escape the gravitational pull and vanilla
plainness of the label beverage. Because food is in beer, so beer becomes food. And the big-picture result? Beer’s horizons and repertoire – i.e., styles and brewery product lineups – have never been more expansive, nor stouthearted. As in bold. The food wave doesn’t deny the more conventional brews, those traditionally made pale ales, lagers and stouts, their due. Not at all. Beer, especially when tricked out, still needs to be beer: to look like beer, smell like beer, taste like beer before
The Beachcomber, August/September 2016
anything else. Yet, brewery folks say the chef’s way of thinking does open up new frontiers. “If you start from the
Photos by Adrian Antonio context of where beer is, and think in terms of where you can take it, you’re doing great things for brew-
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A Fine Italian/Seafood Restaurant Reservations Suggested Walk-Ins & Same Day Reservations Welcomed
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Photos by Jeff Linkous Jeremy Watts, a brewer at Carton Brewing, slices pineapple for smoking over an oak fire, as Sam Cruz of Against the Grain brewery in Louisville, Kentucky, watches. The two breweries collaborated to make a smoked pineapple India pale ale. ing in general, but you’re derivative,” said Augie Carton. Carton’s eponymously named brewery in Atlantic Highlands has earned an East Coast reputation for experimenting and has, for example, made beers with truffle (Belgian tripel), smoked pineapple (IPA), coffee beans (imperial cream ale), ice cream (imperial stout), prickly pears (sour wheat ale) and cherrystone clams (light pale ale). “If you start from what’s possible and exciting in flavor, and figure how to make that work in the context of the flavors of beer,” Carton says, “you’re coming from a different and, at this point, unique basis.” A sip of background: Foods in beer is hardly new. Herb mixtures and spices were widely used before being replaced by hops, the yellow-green conical flowers that impart the signature bitterness. That happened more than 800 years ago. And, minus those hops, beer’s historical and bedrock ingredients – malted barley, water and yeast – would be bread in other kitchen scenarios. That makes a good case for the idea that beer has a food identity. But there are more chapters to the foods/brewing canon. Fruits have been in Belgian brewers’ recipe file for decades if not even longer; berries (rasp, black and blue) have long been popular among craft brewers and homebrewers. Molasses was a Colonial brewing ingredient. Prohibitionera bootleggers, so the beer lore goes, relied on soybeans and
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their sugar-convertible starches for brewing, while corn and rice have been longtime grist for the light lager brewer’s mill. That said, playing around with food flavors in beer seems expressly scripted for the American craft beer movement and its anything-goes inclination. That might be taking too much credit, but craft beer’s popularity does demand kicking things up a notch. So the doors have been opened to even more ingredients: candi sugars, brown sugars, maple, honey (wildflower, orange blossom), coriander, cardamom, cinnamon, peppercorns, lemongrass, cucumber, pumpkin, beets and hibiscus, green tea, coffee, and hot peppers (poblano, jalapeño, chipotle). The list is really unlimited. Among brewers, this all points to something broader. It’s a companion act to the passionate and aggressive additions of hops in their beers to feature spicy flavors, hops’ tropical and citrus fruits signatures, or pine aromas; food ingredients also complement the use of specialty barley malts that can imply flavors of raisin and plum, nuts, biscuit, toffee and roastedness. That has led to some linear, yet clever, thinking. If the hops taste like grapefruit, why not use in the brew actual grapefruit – fruit and/or zest? (Give Ballast Point’s Grapefruit Sculpin IPA a try.) Why settle on brewing just a pumpkin ale for the fall when sweet potatoes and cranberries can also set the Thanksgiving ale table? That’s what Pinelands
The Beachcomber, August/September 2016
Adrian Antonio Brewing did with a holiday porter, All The Fixin’s. The brewery, located in Little Egg Harbor, also has blueberry brews and a pumpkin seasonal to its name. But its Zero Shucks Given oyster stout, made with oysters sourced from its Tuckerton neighbor, Parson’s Seafood, marks a more ambitious path for the brewery. (Oysters can add a hint of brine and water hardness. For another oyster stout, try Flying Dog’s Pearl Necklace Chesapeake Stout.) Fruits of the labors: Brewers also have a simpler reason for stretching the boundaries of beer.
It keeps things engaging, for both them and their audience. “We’re always thinking of stuff we can add,” said Rob Zarko, whose Ship Bottom Brewery began making beer in Beach Haven this summer. “We want to make stuff that makes sense. We don’t want to overpower the beer. We want hops and malts to shine through, and then let there be a little touch of something.” Ship Bottom has a blueberry wheat in its lineup, plus pumpkin seasonals. Coffee, bacon, maple syrup and chocolate go into the
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brewery’s Baconator Stout, and the brewery’s barrel-aged version of that beer. The inaugural HopSauce hot sauce and beer festival two years ago led to Ship Bottom’s IPA collaboration with The Chicken or the Egg: Killer Bee Sting. Brewing with the Beach Haven eatery’s honey-dosed wing hot sauce makes for a more complex IPA, if not a challenging one, a beer with a creeping spice framed by hops. The hot sauce has a yin and yang of its own. “Sweet and spicy goes together like salt and pepper, Abbott and Costello, and other great duos,” said Chegg coowner Mark Cohen. “The sweetness of the honey tones down the sharpness of the hot sauce, and pleases all parts of the palate.” It also makes for a “great beer,” Cohen noted. “The spice takes some time to kick in, but it eventually does.” On the west side of the state, in Mount Holly, Spellbound Brewing makes a killer peach IPA, a flavor combination that could have you thinking peaches were put on Earth for the purpose of beer. The brewery has also used white sage in a black pepper saison (a Belgian farmhouse ale). The pep-
Adrian Antonio per gives the beer a spicy edge to balance the malt sweetness. For its peppered bacon maple coffee porter, the brewery ages the beer on hickory-smoked pepper and
whole coffee beans with Grade B maple syrup. For a St. Patrick’s Day “corned beer” pale ale, the brewery used pickling spices. “We have used a wide vari-
ety of unusual ingredients in our beers. We like to keep it interesting for our customers and for us,” said brewery co-owner John Companick. Q
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Book on Canine Companionship Features Island Business Owner GET IT AT ACME G DINE AND UNWIND
top in to Acme Surf and Sport or Acme Beach and Bike on Long Beach Island and pick up a copy of Magical Dogs: Love and Lessons from our Canine Companions, featuring Krypto and Ruby, the beloved pets of owner Zach Kerzner. “One summer, my sons and I rented bikes from Acme,” author Patti Kerr said. “I never forgot the connection I witnessed between Zach and Krypto. And almost 15 years later, when I began working on Magical Dogs, I contacted Zach to see if he would consider being a part of
S
the book.” The book includes 25 stories of dogs and the impact they have had on people’s lives and their environment. Kerzner’s story with his two dogs – Krypto, a yellow Lab he had 14½ years until she passed away in 2009, and Ruby, the 7-year-old red houndLab mix rescue that Kerzner adopted from Louisiana – includes snippets of life on LBI, including surviving and recovering from Superstorm Sandy. “I was honored, to say the least, when Patti called me to ask if she could put me and Krypto
Courtesy of magical-dogs.com in her new book,” Kerzner said. He was happy and relieved that she really got it, that she understood the essence of the connection. To him, dogs aren’t
the best thing – they’re the only thing. Shop buddy. Roommate. Travel companion and fellow adventurer. Best friend. “I love dogs more than
I love 80 percent of all humans I meet,” Kerzner said. Communication between man and beast
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The Beachcomber, August/September 2016
is essentially about building mutual trust and acceptance, Kerzner explained. His affection with Krypto – a mountains/ beach dog he got as a puppy in Telluride, Col. – would often take the form of a shared glance, a quick wave from afar, or a friendly hand gesture as she lounged on the bed. Though he had planned to take more time to grieve Krypto’s passing, he soon found Ruby on labs4rescue.com. She was the spitting image of Krypto in her younger days, and Ruby was even born so close to the date of Krypto’s death, Kerzner couldn’t help but believe she was the reincarnation of Krypto’s spirit. But wait. Ruby had “issues,” he was told. She was a former street dog that had been teased and abused, she had heartworm disease, and she was depressed. Nonetheless, local Lab rescue advocate Leslie Houston was able to vouch for Kerzner and facilitate the adoption. Quickly they forged that bond of trust and admiration he thought he would never find again. “Once again, my dog loves the mountains, the beach, and me,”
Jack Reynolds Kerzner marveled. “I never thought that I could love a dog as much as I loved Krypto. I was wrong.” Kerr described Kerzner as “totally devoted and committed to his dogs,” adding she is “extremely honored to include them in the book – especially since LBI has been my family’s favorite vacation destination for over 30 years.” Signed copies of Magical Dogs are available at Acme Surf and Sport, located at 8401 Long Beach Blvd. and at Acme Beach and Bike, located at 2 East 27th St., Beach Haven Gardens. A portion of the proceeds from book sales benefits animals in need. — Victoria Ford
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d n a l s I P h c a e B Long
S K O O B
hotographs, memories, history: Shore books focusing on Long Beach Island to give or keep. From beautiful coffeetable collections to anthologies and gift books, Down The Shore Publishing has been creating LBI’s must-have books, calendars and cards since 1984. Small-batch, local publishing! Here are some new titles and a few favorites...
Surviving Sandy
NEW BOOK!
All Things LBI
Long Beach Island And the Greatest Storm Of the Jersey Shore
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Scott Mazzella
This breezy, evocative book about LBI past and present is for locals and visitors alike. Filled with nostalgia, favorite things, moments, places, and lore, it captures the essence of the real Long Beach Island.
Experience the superstorm from its inception to its devastating impact on the Long Beach Island area, and through the triumphs and tribulations our battered shore communities experienced in the days and weeks afterward.
ISBN 978-1-59322-106-5 184 pp. $17.95
SDJHV ‡ VRIWFRYHU ,6%1 ‡ KDUGFRYHU ,6%1
The Long Beach Island Reader Edited by
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Too Many Summers I Love You, Long Beach Island The Best of Artoons Leslee Ganss
Sandy Gingras
This collection of witty, often laugh-outloud LBI cartoons is selected from the last 20 years of the “Artoon by L. Ganss,� published every week in The SandPaper.
After two decades of creating insightful, charming “How To Live� books, LBI’s own Sandy Gingras turns her talents homeward with a focus on our favorite island.
ISBN 978-1-59322-094-5
240 pp. $16.95
ISBN 978-1-59322-093-8
56 pp. $12.95
... and 2017 Calendars
John Bailey Lloyd’s Celebrated Histories of LBI Long Beach Island’s beloved historian and author, the late John Bailey Lloyd, has given us a rich sense of place. His collection of beautifully produced pictorial histories give residents and visitors alike the Long Beach Island we know and love. Each book is full of remarkable Island history and fascinating photographs and illustrations. Six Miles at Sea Eighteen Milses of History Two Centuries of History 11� x 8.5� hardcovers, $38
Our classic Down The Shore Calendar has been a part of the lives of LBI visitors and residents since 1985. ISBN 978-1-59322-102-7
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Th The large-format l f t NJ Lighthouse Li hth Calendar features beautiful images of the Shore’s scenic and remarkable lighthouses. ISBN 978-159322-105-8 $12.99
All calendars include removable 2016-17 tide charts, a six-month calendar grid of the last half of 2016 and large grid spaces for notations.
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The Beachcomber, August/September 2016
Available at most local book and gift retailers and online Long Beach Island’s Publisher
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The Beachcomber, August/September 2016
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