Not So Minor Bulbs Leah Berg
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utumn’s transition to shorter daylight hours and cooler temperatures may depress gardeners dreading winter’s approach. But cheer up! We may still plant spring-flowering bulbs in November as long as the ground is not frozen. Early frosts won’t interfere with the process, especially if rainfall remains scarce. In fact, planting outdoors while the soil is too warm can backfire. Classic tulips, daffodils, hyacinths and crocus this fall season are usually sold “pre-chilled” and start growing their roots right away when planted. We want them to stay insulated outdoors in the ground, usually 3-10” deep, and grow slowly through the winter months a required number of weeks. Don’t wait til spring to plant them! By the time the roots are wellanchored, the dormant leaves and flowers inside gradually find their way to the surface. Pushing up flower stalks too early in response to early spring warmth and moisture puts them at risk for damage from sudden severe freezes and the weight of ice or sleet. Most Kansas City area professional gardeners target mid-October to mid-November to plant for the massed displays we’ll enjoy next April and May. They dislike planting in muddy and heavy soil, though sometimes it must be done. Though some bulbs tolerate heavier clay soils (like daffodils), many species DO NOT and truly require the well-drained soil more typical of slopes or raised beds than level compacted areas near foundations, sidewalks, driveways and parking lots. Hybrid tulips seem especially sensitive to compacted, poorly
draining areas, explaining why after the first year they do not come back well in some sites. If within irrigation system zones, they may receive too much constant moisture and rot during summer. Wet winters also prove hard on bulbs stuck in compacted or soggy areas. The flip side of this relates to drought. After flowering, bulbs go dormant for the summer. Foliage recharges the bulbs for next year, gradually dries up with early summer heat and dies back. Then we forget about them.
described in books and bulb growers’ catalogs (see advice from www. brentandbeckysbulbs.com). Since rodents enjoy eating our expensive tulip and crocus bulbs, and hungry deer and rabbits may browse foliage and buds, it also pays to concentrate on species like daffodils (Narcissus) and so-called “minor bulbs” like grape hyacinths (Muscari armeniacum) not attractive to the critters. I’ve invested most of my dollars and labor in Narcissus and other Amaryllis family cousins because
Above: Allium They need water infrequently during dormancy, but they may need some supplemental watering during dry winters as well as dry summers. Treating some varieties as annuals in selected locations and replacing them each year offers best results, but is hard on limited budgets. Fortunately daffodils, species tulips and many “minor bulbs” will naturalize and increase in quantities over the years. Containers often work well for hybrid tulips, hyacinths, and other pre-chilled bulbs with the added option of “forcing” them to bloom after the proper period stored in an unheated garage or cold frame outdoors. Ideally, target slopes or berms for bulbs in the ground or take advantage of raised beds. Loosened soil amended with compost creates the ideal organically rich, slightly acidic, moist but well-draining soil
November 2012 / The Kansas City Gardener
their bulbs are toxic to rodents. Summer snowflake (Leucojum aestivum) flowers resemble dainty white bells with a green dot on each petal tip, but leaves and stalks look much like daffodils. Shorter, early-blooming snowdrops (Galanthus nivalis) may appear by February, while Leucojum bloom later in April-May. At least 9 different varieties of Narcissus return faithfully for me each year, first planted about 2005. Over 100 varieties listed at Missouri Botanical Gardens and in the Powell Gardens collections testify to their flower power wellsuited to our climate. Neighborhood rodents have also ignored my giant allium and crown imperial clumps. Crown imperial (Frittilaria imperialis) really do have smelly bulbs reminiscent of skunk, just as descriptions say! And according to the instructions, I planted mine SIDEWAYS
to minimize potential damage from water collecting in the crevices in poorly draining soil. Roots grow down, stems grow up, so plant sideways when in doubt. Normally we plant bulbs pointy side up, about 3 times deeper than their diameter. Missouri Botanical Gardens list of best bulbs for our region prefers instead smaller Frittilaria meleagris (checkered lily, guinea hen or snake’s head frittilaria). Try them in dappled light or where afternoon shade minimizes stress. Anything in the onion family might be nibbled, but usually aren’t the top salad bar choice for critters. Like chives on steroids, Allium giganteum command “Oh wow!” attention in landscapes, with purple blooms up to softball size on sturdy stems waving in breezes. These giant bulbs usually cost $4-6 each, but they’ve been high quality investments at my house and in public places like the Kauffman Memorial Gardens. Plenty of other less expensive species in the Allium family provide us with various heights and longlasting flowers with nectar value to beneficial insects. Consider some of the great minor bulbs featured at Powell Gardens, offering critter resistance plus great performance and interesting seasonal changes. Favorites at Powell Gardens (and in my yard!) include Siberian squill (Scilla siberica) and Spanish Bluebells (Scilla hispanica a.k.a. Hyacinthoides hispanica). Starting as early as next February, look for blooming bulbs there and meanwhile peek ahead by looking at past spring flower photos on Alan Branhagen’s blog (www.powellgardens.blogspot.com). Leah Berg is a landscape designer with a conservation emphasis. She teaches at MCC-Longview and is also the Agribusiness/Grounds and Turf Management department coordinator. To consult privately, contact her at 816-353-7170. 13