MAGGI Ready To Use Rich Gravy packs a flavour punch with its meat-style, rich and well-balanced savoury notes, perfect for hot chips, pulled meat rolls, and other takeaway dishes. Serving suggestion
Gluten free
RICH & READY TO GO
NO.814 SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2025
ROSHEEN KAUL | REGIONAL DINING | TOOLS OF THE TRADE | MATCHA
SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2025
Regulars
8 // IN FOCUS
Matcha isn’t a trend: Why the green brew is here to stay.
12 // NEWS
The latest openings, books, events, and more.
14 // PRODUCE
All about the punchy Italian green cime di rapa.
18 // BAR CART
Thirst quenchers, slow sippers, and all things beverage related.
20 // BEST PRACTICE
Productivity in restaurants is about more than just working harder.
22 // DRINKS
Younger drinkers are challenging how venues present wine.
26 // PROFILE
Rosheen Kaul shares her Secret Sauce.
60 // EQUIPMENT
Execute your cake-decorating vision with the piping bag.
62 // 5 MINUTES WITH...
Pilu General Manager Ramsie Taylor.
Features
34 // REGIONAL DINING
The perks and perils of how regional dining is evolving in Australia.
40 // CHEF’S EQUIPMENT
Leading chefs share their favourite tools.
46 // CASUAL DINING
Casual restaurants are finding balance between aesthetics, flavour, and price.
52 // OPENING A VENUE
The A to Z of setting up a restaurant.
A note from the editor
IT IS WITH a heavy heart that we farewell Annabelle Cloros, Hospitality’s former Managing Editor. Cloros led the publication for the better part of a decade and was the brains behind the magazine as we know it today. Now spring is knocking at the door, and the seasonal harbinger of change signals new menus, new restaurants, and for us here at Hospitality, our newest colleague, Journalist Maia Hart.
With the fresh season comes a sunnier outlook for the industry with lower interest rates and falling inflation. But hospitality isn’t yet out of the woods. Shrinking margins, reduced spends per head, and persistent staffing challenges are still at
PUBLISHER
Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au
EDITOR Laura Box lbox@intermedia.com.au
JOURNALIST
Maia Hart mhart@intermedia.com.au
the fore of many operators’ minds. This edition, we hear from regional venues around the country to see how these challenges are impacting them, and what they’re doing to thrive.
We also chat to the café operators who believe matcha is here to stay – and why the brew needs to be approached as more than just a trend. Additionally, Rosheen Kaul shares her recent journey into the immense world of food-adjacent creativity and opens up about her brush with burnout.
I hope you enjoy this issue,
Laura Box Editor
COMMERCIAL DIRECTORHOSPITALITY
Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 syork@intermedia.com.au
The rise of matcha is more than just a trend. It’s here to stay, and operators say it’s time to start treating it as such.
Words Maia Hart
IT’S THE GREEN drink that is still a foreign concept for some, sometimes even for those tasked with making it. Matcha — the Japanese green tea leaf finely ground into a vibrant powder that’s known for its abundant antioxidants. Traditionally, that powder is whisked into a drink to be used in Japanese tea ceremonies, often as part of a meditative practice, since as early as the 12th century. But now, caffeinated matcha lattes are dominating Australian café menus, and the umami ingredient is also being used to elevate desserts, dishes, cocktails, and even to dye other foods.
More Director Jerome Manion would know. He talks to Hospitality having just finished moving into the business into a new warehouse — one that is solely for matcha. Manion says the hospitality industry has been looking at matcha as if it is a trend. But it goes deeper than that. In fact, he thinks it’s time to stop calling it a trend at all.
“It’s time to wake up and realise that matcha is not just a trend and start focusing on what this product is and what its impact is on your business,” Manion says. “When you find a good matcha, you know exactly where that is, and you’ll go back again.”
Manion operates two cafes in Rosebery and Burraneer. The brand is famed for its matcha on tap, which has led to more than a few viral moments, but its journey to this point goes far deeper than that. “We’ve been experimenting and playing around with matcha really, really strongly over the last few years,” says Manion. “We opened More Rosebery about a year and a half ago, and that was purely an experiment to see and engage with customers from a drinks experience, more so than your standard café.”
Turns out focusing on matcha paid off, because it’s “absolutely blown up”, and it’s only getting bigger.
“It’s really interesting because I think the demographic is young, but then I think matcha is a lot more approachable for a younger generation. But that’s just going to carry through,” he says. “We’ve been asking, how do we deliver this product to customers that don’t know anything about at this stage?”
“Matcha is not just a green drink on your menu, there’s so much more depth to the product.”
– Jerome Manion
Innovation
Enter More Matcha — a one litre matcha concentrate in three different styles that Manion says is consistent, high quality, and ready to use straight away. It’s a system that works because it’s easy for baristas to work with, says Manion. All they need to do is take the concentrate and add milk, whereas usually, a barista needs to weigh out the powder, put it through a sieve, and use a bamboo whisk to prepare it — which can be time intensive in a busy cafe.
“Now we’re in the process of working with over 60 customers around Australia,” he says. “We’re on this beautiful education path and supporting program with these businesses that six months ago had no idea what it was,” he says. “It all comes back down to the education side of things and people’s knowledge around it. That’s what we’re trying to pioneer. Matcha is not just a green drink on your menu, there’s so much more depth to the product.”
He says his passion lies not only in introducing the product into different cafes, but being able to educate operators and baristas on how to use the concentrate and therefore matcha properly, so that the best possible product comes out as a result. That education is important, Manion says, because it can go wrong.
“When it’s bad, it obviously reflects badly on your operation,” he says. “You don’t get returning customers. So, yes, it’s super important not to treat matcha like an afterthought.”
Learning the trade
Single O Senior Trainer Richard Brooks is seeing the importance of quality matcha first-hand. For Brooks, the matcha world is something he has been dropped into after the team decided it was something they wanted to launch wholesale.
He’s been tasked with working out what customers want from the product. The result? A lot of whisking, green fingertips, and finding himself “on the cusp” of developing repetitive strain injury as the Single O team took the time to blind taste different matcha. The straining was necessary, because Single O needed to give the product the same attention they would give to any of their coffee products.
“I knew absolutely nothing about matcha. I think I tasted it once, and probably like most Australian’s haven’t had the greatest experience. It can be bitter, or chalky, or astringent, or not very well balanced or tasty,” says Brooks. “I set about working out what’s the nuance in there? What are the parallels in matcha to what I know about coffee? I saw a whole lot of parallels with the coffee world, whether that’s the flavour nuances or how quality at a production level translates to a much better product in the cup.”
“It’s time to wake up and realise that it’s not just a trend and start focusing on what this product is.” – Jerome Manion
With coffee, Brooks says they typically do a pre-production valuation on the upcoming origins, and spend the whole day tasing it, looking at data and evaluating that, and making sure customers can use their products as soon as they order their first bag.
“We want customers to have that same experience when it came to matcha as well,” he says. “Making sure that first of all, the product tastes great, but also that they’re comfortable using that product and showcasing it well to their customers. Because it’s a trend that popped up years ago and now it’s sticking around and seems to be here to stay. It seems to be the next wave in this specialty world, I think.”
He thinks they’ve landed on a great tasting product that their wholesale network is also going to enjoy, which they plan to roll out in the coming weeks. Like two of the Matcha More concentrates, the Single O product comes with the ‘ceremonialgrade’ tagline. Brooks says this is a “bit of a westernised thing”, though what it speaks to is the product being of the highest quality they can source, which is the first pick of the tea leaves which are restricted from getting too much sunlight.
“It’s drawing more nutrients from the ground, and it’s maintaining that green, vibrant colour when it comes to being picked,” he says. “It’s the highest quality matcha powder that we could get hold of in order to give the customer more control of how to brew in the matcha. Whether they want to add sweetener or not, whether they want it strong or weak — now people have the control to do that.”
While it might seem obvious, when it’s made well, it tastes good, Brooks says. They’re even seeing that firsthand within the Single O team.
“If it’s whisked well, the right temperature, the right ratio of matcha, to milk or ice, it’s going to showcase a whole lot better,” he says. “All the die hard ‘I hate matcha drinkers’ around the office at Single O, once we perfected our recipe, once we settled on a product, they’ve had that first sip and their eyes go wide and they’re like, ‘Oh, it’s actually pretty good’.” ■
Entrée
The latest openings, books, events and more.
Edited by Maia Hart
Grandfather’s arrival
The Pellegrino 2000 team has opened its newest venture Grandfather’s. It’s the work of Michael Clift, Dan Pepperell, and Andy Tyson, who are also the brainwork behind popular restaurants Clam Bar and Neptune’s Grotto. The restaurant is named in honour of Clift’s Chinese Grandfather, whose love for food inspired his career as a chef. The menu will focus on the Guangdong and Sichuan regions. The dining room at Angel Place has been refreshed to suit the concept and once in full swing, the restaurant will open seven days a week, with yum cha service from 12pm, and late-night supper until 1am. grandfathers.com
Applejack scores Opera Bar
Applejack has struck a 10-year agreement with The Sydney Opera House to run Opera Bar and House Canteen following a competitive tender process. The group operates a range of award-winning bars, pubs, and cafes, including Taphouse, Forrester’s, Bopp and Tone, and Rafi. Sydney Opera House Chief Customer Officer Jade McKeller says Applejack’s proposal detailed a compelling, vibrant vision for the space that thousands enjoy every year. Applejack Co-Founders Ben Carroll and Hamish Watts say it’s a dream come true for their entire team. “To be entrusted as custodians of venues at the Sydney Opera House the world’s most iconic cultural stage is both humbling and inspiring,” they say. “We can’t wait to share the exciting new concepts we’ve developed for both locals and visitors, while honouring this extraordinary location.”
A taste of nostalgia
Two Good Cookbook Four: Sweet Memories
Two Good Co; $75
Two Good Co has launched its fourth cookbook, Sweet Memories . The four-part series celebrates everything from childhood favourites and comforting classics to decadent showstoppers for special occasions. With over 100 recipes across the series, Sweet Memories brings together Two Good’s own tried-and-true creations alongside donated recipes from more than 35 celebrated chefs and creators such as Nigella Lawson, Helen Goh, Neil Perry, Maggie Beer, and Katherine Sabbath. “This cookbook is about a different kind of nourishment,” says Two Good founder Rob Caslick. “These recipes are about celebration. They remind us that food can do more than feed the body, it can lift the spirit and demonstrate love and joy for someone you care about.” Available direct from Two Good Co, and in select bookstores and online retailers.
Athens movement
Michael Badr (Marameo) and Marco Tenuta (Il Bacaro, Marameo) are set to open Bar Sophia this November. Located near Melbourne’s Central Park, the relaxed neighbourhood bar and restaurant is inspired by new-wave Athens wine bars. Coming off the back of a two-month research trip to Greece, Executive Chef Nicholas Deligiannis has produced a woodfire hearth-fuelled menu. The evolving, seasonal offering will feature the likes of charcoal whey flatbread with whipped cod roe; baked sheep’s curd with spinach and silverbeet; charred squid with smoked red pepper and almond; orzo with saffron and Moreton Bay bugs; and Cretan-style braised lamb. The front of the venue will have a 12-seat no-bookings bar, while out back there is a dining room for up to 44 guests. A well-stocked wine wall means locals can also pick up a bottle to-go.
Celebrating salad
Salata
$39.99
Michael Rantissi and Kristy Frawley will launch Salata in September, a cookbook that redefines what a salad can be. With more than 90 healthy recipes celebrating the classic flavours of Greece, Italy, Türkiye and beyond, the book takes you straight to the Mediterranean. The recipes champion seasonal produce and show you how easy it is to turn the vibrancy and balance of ingredients into nutritionally complete meals for any time of day.
Making Marlowe
Fanda Group (Rick Shores, Central, Norté, Sueño, Southside) is gearing up to open Marlowe, an elegant Australian Bistro on Fish Lane, in September. Housed in a heritage-listed 1938 apartment block once known as the Merivale Flats, Marlowe will channel the warmth and charm of its past across a series of intimate dining rooms, bar spaces, and private corners. Head Chef and Co-Owner Ollie Hansford is defining a sense of place through the evolving menu which combines inspiration from vintage Australian cookbooks with staples of contemporary dining. The opening menu features a prawn cocktail tartlet in crisp pastry with classic marie rose sauce, and a braised duck pie on a bed of radicchio jam, with jus poured tableside.
One night only
Khanh Nguyen will take over Soi 38 in Adelaide for one night only on Thursday 2 October. The executive chef at King Clarence in Sydney is known for his refined menus which combine Vietnamese heritage, classical technique, and modern expression. The one-night event will feature signature King Clarence dishes like the fish finger bao with yellow curry, mustard-greens tartare, and salmon caviar. The menu will also include sourdough with fermented mung bean, palm sugar, and sweet soy; spanner crab custard with finger lime; and a claypot broken rice with Thai sausage, torch ginger, and egg yolk. Soi 38 will host two sittings from 5pm. $150pp including a complimentary drink on arrival. soi38.com.au
Known for its earthy flavour
Commonly enjoyed in pasta dishes
Despite its broccoli-like florets, cime di rapa is a cousin of the turnip
Up to 30cm in length and 150g
Sometimes produces edible florets
Cime di rapa
The leafy Italian green that’s easy to grow and adds a punchy, earthy flavour to any dish.
Words Maia Hart
Origins
Cime di rapa, sometimes known as broccoli rabe or rapini, is a traditional leafy vegetable from Puglia. Related to the turnip family but often thought to be a cruciferous vegetable, cime di rapa is particularly popular in southern Italy. There are different varieties thought to be attributed to D’Arrigo Brothers, who adapted the Italian varieties for the United States market in the 1930s. Cime di rapa is a member of the brassica or mustard family, which includes plants whose leaves, flowers, stems, and roots are cooked and eaten.
Growth and harvest
The green is fast and easy to grow, and it
can be planted in late winter and spring or late summer. It is directly sowed into rows and must be kept watered during hot spells to reduce the risk of bolting. The time it takes to grow depends on the variety so it can take anywhere from 40 to 150 days to be ready for harvest. The leafy green should be harvested before it turns yellow otherwise it will be too bitter. Once the head of the plant is fully formed it should just snap off, but you can also cut off the leaves to eat.
Appearance and flavour profile
Cime di rapa is a deep green colour and its buds may appear similar to broccoli or broccolini. The leaves can be slightly
Source of vitamin A, C, and K
Fast and easy to grow
Source of vitamin A, C, and K
crinkled, and the edible floret is often yellow. Its flavour is said to have a bitter, mustard, or earthy tone, particularly the stems. However, when the green is cooked, the bitterness of the vegetable softens.
Culinary uses
Given its origin, the vegetable is particularly popular in pasta recipes, especially orecchiette, which is well loved in Puglia. It can be steamed or fried lightly in olive oil and pairs well with garlic, chilli, and anchovies. Like many green vegetables, its versatility allows it to be added to pizza, soups, or simply act as a side dish to add nutritional value. ■
A shred above the rest
Flexible shred pieces for convenience and versatility
Ideal ‘all-rounder’ for a range of applications
Smooth taste with a mild cheddar flavour
Great stretch with melt in mouth texture
Consistent golden caramelisation when heated
White style shred
Bar cart
Thirst quenchers, slow sippers and all things beverage related.
Edited by Maia Hart
Raw possibilities
Western Australia’s Mon Tout Wines has released its 2024 vintage, continuing its hands-off approach to winemaking. “With Mon Tout, we always let go of any preconceived notions of what the wines should be,” says second-generation winemaker Richard Burch. “Instead, we look at what each vintage gives us and work with that, keeping our minds open and seeing where things land.” 2024 vintage release includes Long Play Chenin Blanc; Hey Days Chardonnay; Strange Love Grenache, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Gris blend; and Cherry Picking Grenache. RRP $33. montout.com.au
The big launch
Distilled in Slovakia, Savage Rabbit Vodka has hit Australian markets, bringing with it a bold and modern aesthetic and flavour. The vodka is produced using winter wheat and rye and cooled to -3°C before undergoing triple-filtration through charcoal, silver, and platinum. This results in a smooth mouthfeel, which on the nose has subtle notes of grapefruit and warm pecan. Crafted to suit both contemporary cocktails and elevated neat serves, Savage Rabbit enters the market having been developed with versatility in mind. RRP $69. savagerabbit.com.au.
Australian agave action
Meet Beudi the new champion for Australian distilled agave. Industry veterans Jack Connor, Pat Coulson, Dane Pitman, and Tom Ruhl have launched Beudi Blanco, a classic agave spirit; Beudi Margi Spirit which honours the margarita; the Sparkling Margi RTD; and the Bushwater RTD with desert lime, soda, and blanco. “When it comes to tequila and agave spirits, Australians are a thirsty bunch; so much so we’re the third largest consumer in the world,” says Coulson. Each Beudi bottle is fermented, distilled, and bottled in Australia using a 100 per cent blend of Mexican and locally grown Blue Weber Agave, with a view to becoming entirely Australian-grown down the line. RRP $28.99-$97.99. beudi.com.au
The stout unknown
Felons Brewing Co has launched its annual Imperial Stout ($12) and its barrel-aged sibling, Macadamia Moon ($39). The stout, available in limited holographic cans, is bold with rich molasses. Macadamia Moon has been aged for six months in oak once used to mature the distillery’s macadamia liqueur. “Think of it like our annual mission into the stout unknown,” says Felons Brand Director Dean Romeo. “We’re not just chasing intensity — we’re out to discover new flavours, new ideas, and a little more personality each time.” This year marks the fifth annual stout release from the Felons team. felonsbrewingco.com.au
Striking gold
Fourth-generation family farming business Priest Bros is celebrating all things apple with its latest carbonated juice, Sparkling Gold. The non-alcoholic beverage is a mix of premium apple varieties grown at the Priest Bros orchards in Victoria. Priest Bros Business Manager Shane Priest says the team hand-selected fruit based on flavour, colour, and juicing qualities. “Every tree on our property is carefully managed to ensure the fruit is picked at its peak,” he says. “The apples are ideal for juicing because they are naturally high in brix (sugar content).” Stock is available through independent fruit shops and specialty grocers across Victoria, with plans to roll out nationwide. RRP $10. priestbros.com.au
Fostering productivity
Productivity in restaurants is about more than just working harder.
Words Ken Burgin
THE RECENT FEDERAL government roundtable on productivity made headlines, but for restaurant and cafe operators, the idea isn’t new. Every day we’re asked to do more with less fewer staff, higher wages, rising costs, and customers who still expect great value and service. Productivity in our world is about running smarter, building systems that work, and creating places where staff stay longer and customers want to return.
More than just output
When economists talk about productivity, they often mean how much output you get per hour. In the hospitality industry, that definition falls short. Productivity for a cafe or restaurant is about the smoothness of the whole operation. Do orders flow easily from table to kitchen? Do staff know their roles and have the tools to succeed? Are customers moving smoothly from welcome to payment without bottlenecks? It’s about whether the business as a whole avoids waste, confusion, and churn.
Technology and AI
Most operators have shifted to a modern POS system, but the real gains come when those systems are fully used. Features like real-time sales tracking, menu mix analysis, and integrated stock control highlight what is selling profitably and what is dragging margins down. Using AI tools, a good POS should now give you an action list and
priorities based on last week’s numbers, not just endless reports.
Digital rostering systems can forecast labour needs with surprising accuracy, eliminating unnecessary hours without hitting service. Digital checklists mean fewer mistakes in prep and closing routines. QR code ordering and loyalty apps speed up service while building stronger repeat trade. Let the tech handle the routine so staff can focus on customers.
Staff culture equals productivity
Turnover is a productivity killer. It costs time and money to replace staff, and customers notice when a team is unsettled. Investing in staff development pays off many times over. Well-trained staff make fewer errors, sell more, and deliver the kind of service that encourages customers to return.
Productivity is also tied to well-being. Fair rostering, opportunities for growth, and a positive work environment reduce turnover and boost morale. A team that stays longer builds experience and confidence, ensuring a smooth service and loyal customers.
Customer experience as a productivity measure
It’s easy to think of productivity as only an internal measure, but customers also feel the effects. Efficient operations result in shorter wait times, fewer complaints, and a sense that the place operates smoothly. Loyal customers are themselves a productivity
win: the more often they return, the less you spend on marketing and filling empty seats. Regulars love being recognised and greeted by the same staff familiarity builds trust, which in turn reduces the cost of winning each sale.
Where government policy fits in
There’s only so much that operators can do on their own. Wages, penalty rates, and the shortage of skilled staff are national challenges, and this is where government support matters through training support, sensible visa settings, and regulations that don’t weigh small businesses down. But waiting for policy change is risky. The operators who succeed are those who take control of what they can influence, such as closely tracked numbers, staff culture, customer loyalty, and the best use of technology.
Practical steps to take now
Start by mapping the customer journey and spotting bottlenecks. Invest in training that improves both skills and sales. Use technology not for its own sake but to free up staff time for customers. Track staff turnover and customer retention alongside sales figures they are key productivity metrics, alongside food cost or labour percentage. Productivity isn’t about working harder. It’s about creating an operation that runs smoothly, keeps staff motivated, and makes customers want to return again and again. ■
Redefining wine
Younger drinkers are challenging venues to reconsider how wine is presented, and how it earns its place on the menu.
Words Molly Nicholas
Photography Cyndal Petty by Peggy Voir,
Homer Rogue Taverna by Trent van der Jagt, and Dark Red by Finnegan Laver.
THE BIG, BOLD bottles of wine once guaranteed to impress are no longer cutting through with today’s younger drinks. Young Australians are drinking less wine, and when they do, it’s on different terms. For operators, the challenge is clear — but so too is the opportunity to reimagine how wine is presented and positioned.
In Australia, leading drinks market analyst IWSR has identified a significant drop in wine consumption in younger generations, with the proportion of 18- to 24-year-olds who consumed wine on a monthly basis halving between 2010 and 2023.
It’s a concern that many operators will be all too familiar with. Being exposed to a broader range of alcoholic beverages than previous generations, these consumers are spoilt for choice. But they’re also showing a growing interest in moderation, and less familiarity with wine terminology and wine-specific regions and varietals.
Cyndal Petty, chef-turned-sommelier and accomplished wine consultant and judge, describes the generational drinking divide as worrying. But she believes it’s more than apathy — it’s a rebellion, and she encourages the industry to listen, respect, and adapt.
“The data talks of a health-conscious generation, but the fascination for sucking on strawberry-kiwi-burn-your-lungs vapes tells me otherwise,” says Petty.
“What they are is anti-corporate, anti-conglomerate, and hyper-aware. They’ve watched price-gouging in real time, they’ve got a global feed of corruption at their fingertips, and they’re not buying the marketing fairytales on the morning show. They want to know who made their drink, where it came from, and whether the producer is part of the problem or the solution.”
For many younger drinkers, wine still carries a weight of formality – steeped in tradition, wrapped in jargon, and often seen as more intimidating than inviting. One of wine’s biggest
“I suppose a friendly, no-rules and non-alienating approach is exactly what I loved that got me into wine, and we try to do that at Dark Red and Dark Blue.” – Hannah Wagner
hurdles can be its language and rituals, which feel more like barriers to consumption than entry points for younger consumers.
“[Younger consumers are] still curious,” says Petty. “We just need to tell the story in a dialect they understand. That means evolving our delivery, not our truths. We can keep the integrity, history, and beauty, but ditch the dusty monologue. It’s okay for wine communication to be fun, self-aware, and a little messy.”
While wine can feel like a category that’s harder to access than others, it’s encouraging to see venues like Dark Red Wine Bar, a boutique Brisbane bar focused on Italian imports and Australian-grown Italian varietals, have found a way to buck the trend. Dark Red, and its new sister venue Dark Blue, attract plenty of younger patrons, and owner Hannah Wagner attributes a lot of that to the wines she chooses to stock.
“We tend to go for a lot of experimental fun skin contacts and bubbles. We also make sure to give people tasters of wines,” says Wagner. “I suppose a friendly, no-rules, and non-alienating
approach is exactly what I loved and what got me into wine, and we try to do that at Dark Red and Dark Blue.”
Generally, Petty finds that the younger generation are looking for something to challenge them, and they’re eager to learn. They often lean into wines that are lighter, fresher, and more expressive — wines that taste of place.
“Show a 25-year-old that Chablis tastes like wet rocks because of fossilised marine life and watch their eyes light up,” she explains. “Hand them a sauvignon from a roundup-drenched, conglomerate-owned block and wait for the sass. It’s brilliant — they care, and they’re not shy about saying so. Gateway options are light, salty whites, something unusual, and something that has a story. Stay away from big, heavy wines — that’s so 1995.”
Another factor to consider is that younger generations aren’t just drinking less wine, they’re drinking less alcohol altogether. “I think it’s great suppliers are introducing and making more non-alcoholic substitutes to facilitate this,” says Wagner. “NON wine particularly sells a lot and has been a great option for people who still want to socialise in a bar environment.”
Cronulla’s newest Greek eatery, Homer Rogue Taverna, blends traditional food and wines with the easy-going buzz of a classic Athenian taverna. Founding brothers Harry and Mario Kapoulas and Sommelier Mikaela Poole have stocked their walk-up custom wine fridge with some of the world’s oldest grape varietals, but the selection is designed to feel as approachable as it is authentic — prices start at $54 a bottle, and few are over $100.
While older generations might be confident navigating a wine list, Poole says the younger generations are simply quieter about it. She sees a willingness among younger generations to experiment more, and the venue offers 500ml carafes and 16 by-the-glass options to encourage this.
“[Younger consumers] often skip the ‘big’ bottles in favour of interesting, good-value options — usually by the glass — and they’re more open to trying something new.
“With Homer’s Greek-focused list, younger guests have been excited to dive in. They’re not chasing a big Barossa shiraz — they’re looking for fresh, playful wines that spark curiosity. The lighter Greek styles, especially assyrtiko and xinomavro, rarely stay in our hands for long.
“Smaller pours let people explore the list at
“Younger drinkers have different priorities — and I back them. They want transparency: who made it, what the sustainability plan is, and whether it’s interesting.”
– Cyndal Petty
their own pace, mix and match, and have fun discovering new favourites,” Poole explains.
Wagner’s menu at Dark Red clearly states that patrons can ask for recommendations or help choosing their wines — she feels this approach has helped to engage consumers who might otherwise feel out of place or have limited knowledge.
“We really try to find what our guests like, and make sure we can talk them through the menu. On weekends we tend to go offmenu sometimes if there’s a bottle we feel would really resonate with someone and we are confident we can sell it. The staff all have their favourites, we all have varied tastes and that helps a lot with preferences and recommendations,” Wagner explains.
“[Younger consumers] often skip the ‘big’ bottles in favour of interesting, good-value options — usually by the glass — and they’re more open to trying something new.”
– Mikaela Poole
Each of the wines on Dark Red’s list have simple tasting notes written out beneath them — for example, notes for Sensale Bio Chardonnay describe “weighty yet fresh, apricots, complex, super pleasant”, while 168 Sangiovese states “super smooth, red fruits, savoury finish, our OG”.
Wagner has found that these notes make the menu easier for new-to-wine drinkers to interpret, simplifying their decision process and giving them more confidence in their choices. “Explaining wines as ‘juicy’ or ‘dark cherry’ helps and I’ve found that to be self-explanatory. It also takes Googling out of the picture. The last thing you want when you sit down for a date or a friend catch-up is to be stuck on your phones straight away.”
As the industry seeks to recruit younger consumers, Petty agrees that wine lists need to be approachable, understandable, and fun. But more than that, younger generations want to drink with purpose — and honest, intentional communication is vital.
“Younger drinkers have different priorities — and I back them. They want transparency: who made it, what the sustainability plan is, and whether it’s interesting. They want an emotional and intellectual connection, not just a glass of booze to skull (that was my generation’s sport).
“The barrier isn’t them – it’s us. We still talk at them instead of with them. Make your list ethical. Know your producers. And remember; self-awareness cuts both ways — they’ve got it in spades; we barely had a teaspoon.” ■
Crafted for chefs who demand the best.
Chilled product, without the need to add preservatives and additives
Locally sourced ingredients
Voted Australia’s #1 mayonnaise by chefs since 2020 Tastes and performs scratch-made
Crispy Soft Shell Crab with Charred Spring Onion, Chilli and Whole Egg Mayonnaise
Rosheen Kaul
The chef shares the impetus behind Secret Sauce, and why creativity shouldn’t end at the pass.
Words Laura Box
Photography Armelle Habib for Secret Sauce
WHEN ROSHEEN KAUL decided to take a step back from full time chef work a year ago, she saw it as an opportunity to explore different forms of creativity in the industry. Her time away from the pass allowed her to begin writing recipes again, collaborating with artists and chefs, running events, and making workwear for other chefs. “It’s great that I get to do a whole breadth of things that keep me in touch with the industry,” says Kaul. “I’ve really enjoyed tapping into the creative aspect of working in food.”
Her exit from the full-time chef world was the consequence of exhaustion and impending burnout. During her time as head chef at Etta, Kaul received significant recognition, but eventually the burden of her own high expectations began to weigh on her. “Etta was doing so incredibly well, and I feel like I shouldered it. Not because anyone was forcing me to, but because I made it my entire personality. I couldn’t see the forest between the trees — I was just consumed. Which is so unhealthy,” says Kaul.
Since stepping back, Kaul has been working on her second book, Secret Sauce. The publication incorporates more than 50 recipes for condiments, dressings, sauces, and “flavour bomb butters”— each accompanied by an example of how to use it.
Kaul’s interest in the world of sauces (although the term “sauce” feels reductive for the oily, buttery, fresh, and spicy scope of the book) began during her time in the Etta kitchen. Kaul realised sauces could help her achieve and maintain consistency with less need for oversight. “I couldn’t be on one side of the kitchen worrying if someone on the other side was seasoning properly. So for peace of mind, I’d say, ‘Here’s a sauce. Don’t season it’. And then I knew that anything that I was sending over the pass was correctly seasoned.”
An array of sauces became a fixture on Kaul’s ever-evolving menu at Etta; at some points the chef had five or six red sauces alone on hand. “My team used to make fun of me. They started labelling them as red sauce one, red sauce two, and so on. They were all completely different though,” she says. Many of these recipes became the basis of her book, with between 30 and 40 per cent pulled directly from her restaurant menus.
Secret Sauce is Kaul’s second publication. It follows Chineseish (2022), which she co-authored alongside friend Joanna Hu. “Chinese-ish was not a book I sought out to write,” says Kaul.
“For peace of mind, I’d say, ‘Here’s a sauce. Don’t season it’. And then I knew that anything that I was sending over the pass was correctly seasoned.” —
Rosheen Kaul
PROFILE // Rosheen
Kaul
“I couldn’t see the forest between the trees — I was just consumed. Which is so unhealthy.”
— Rosheen Kaul
Kaul and Hu began its first iteration as a zine during Covid, before a publisher approached them to turn it into a real book. “Being an author was never something that I imagined, especially because I didn’t think that I was anywhere near established enough or researched enough or experienced enough to tell anybody to do anything in cooking — because I was still learning myself.”
The timing of Chinese-ish was also particularly difficult for Kaul, as she’d just begun working at Etta when they signed the book deal. “It was absolute chaos,” says the chef, who was sending through manuscripts to the publisher at 5:30am before going to work in the restaurant.
“So I didn’t have the best experience with book writing, because I felt like I was drowning.”
It’s unsurprising that Kaul had never planned to write another book. But fortuitously, enough time had passed when the publisher approached Kaul again. “When they asked if I had anything else, a few years later, I was like, you know what? I’ve got an idea.”
Considering her history with colour-coded sauces at Etta, it’s only natural that the chef divided the cookbook into sections based on colour. “Traditionally you’d write a cookbook and split it between vegetables, or main courses and desserts — any of those things. But because this is essentially dressings, toppings, cooking mediums, I figured colour was the best way to split it,” explains Kaul. Each section delivers a specific essence to the book — white and cream tend towards “comforting and warm”; green is “herbaceous”; red is filled with vibrant sambals
and chilli oils; black and brown include soybased options; and yellow and orange include “flavour packed butters”.
The chef doesn’t believe in prescriptively separating flavours based on where they’re from. Rather, she’s more interested in thinking of every ingredient as something that builds flavour. An exemplar of this is the ‘Everything bagel’ chilli oil, which is among her favourite recipes in the book. The recipe encourages readers to use what’s in their pantry and think outside the box – Kaul’s version includes spring onions, gochugaru, and everything bagel seasoning, and uses the Chinese hot oil sear technique to bring it all together.
Kaul also says she’s “obsessed” with putting green sauce on things. “I think it’s the best way to disperse herb flavour through a dish, and a great way to clean out sad herbs in your fridge. You can make a white risotto and stick a really gorgeous green sauce on top or just roast a chicken and make it look so much fancier because you put this balsam verde on it. It makes everything look really pro.”
Her ultimate recipe — and among the easiest — is a three-ingredient soy sauce and sherry vinaigrette which Kaul describes as the simplest pairings of Western and Asian ingredients.
“This dressing absolutely slaps,” says Kaul.
“Sherry vinaigrette and soy sauce are the greatest seasonings of all time — and they go so beautifully together. And then you add this fruity layer of olive oil. It’s so simple, it’s all equal parts.”
“My heart well and truly lies in the kitchen behind a pass running service.”
— Rosheen Kaul
A year exploring alternative creative pursuits hasn’t left Kaul removed from cooking trends. The chef has her finger on the industry’s pulse — and lately, there are two main trends she’s noticed.
The first, says Kaul, is a shift back to classic, home-style cooking. “There are some very skilled chefs doing very simple food,” she notes. “Chefs who have worked exclusively in fine dining and then they’ve gone off and started growing food. They’ll sometimes just have two things on the plate — like radicchio they grew with incredible olive oil — and the flavour is absolutely sensational.” Kaul says the shift means the lens is back on having solid skills, like knife skills or butchery skills. “You can’t cook such simple food without the skillset. And it’s really obvious when you have nowhere to hide.”
Another trend the chef is noticing is what she calls “new style fusion”. “[Fusion] was destroyed in the 80s, 90s, and early 2000s essentially by white male chefs ... They really damaged that word,” says Kaul.
“But if you look at who’s cooking fusion food now, it’s really in the hands of third culture
chefs. There’s no other way for them to really communicate clearly all the different cultures that make up who they are,” says Kaul, who was born in Singapore to parents of mixed Asian heritage (Kashmiri, Peranakan Chinese, Filipino), and grew up between Melbourne, Malaysia, China, and Indonesia.
The year has proved fruitful for Kaul. “It’s been a really good year to flesh out the food creative that I can be, get all these crazy jumbled ideas out of my system, and to see what my path can look like ... You never think there’s going to be more to your trajectory other than opening a restaurant if you stay in the restaurant world.”
Despite this, says Kaul, “my heart well and truly lies in the kitchen behind a pass running service”. The chef, who says she feels weird if she’s too rested (“my cortisol is too low!”), is already looking towards her next challenge: Perhaps a stint in Paris will do the trick.
Secret Sauce by Rosheen Kaul Murdoch Books; $39.99. ■
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Grilled broccolini with ‘everything bagel’ chilli oil
Rosheen Kaul shares a recipe from her latest cookbook
Words Rosheen Kaul
Photography Armelle Habib for Secret Sauce
BEAUTIFUL THINGS HAPPEN to brassicas when you grill them over high heat. The ample sugars in the vegetables caramelise to delicious effect, concentrating their natural sweetness. You can replace the labneh with goat’s cheese or feta if you’re short on time – just whisk or blend in a food processor with a little olive oil until smooth.
Ingredients
Makes 1 ½ – 2 cups
• 1 cup (260 g) Greek-style yoghurt
• 2 pinches salt
• 1 clove garlic, finely grated
• 2 bunches broccolini (approx. 400 g/ 14 oz)
• 1 teaspoon olive oil
• 2 teaspoons ‘Everything bagel’ chilli oil
Method
Mix the yoghurt with a pinch of the salt. Line a strainer with a cheesecloth and place inside a large bowl. Add the yoghurt mixture to the cheesecloth and tie it up tightly. Allow the yoghurt to hang in the strainer for 10–12 hours, or overnight, then transfer into a bowl and stir the garlic through. Toss the broccolini in the olive oil and grill on a barbecue or under a grill (broiler) for 2–3 minutes, turning halfway through to char both sides. Spread the labneh on a plate, arrange the broccolini on top and dress with the chilli oil and the remaining pinch of salt. Serve immediately.
• 1 spring onion (scallion), white part only, sliced into rounds ½ teaspoon chicken bouillon powder ¾ cup (185 ml) neutral oil ½ teaspoon light soy sauce
Method
Combine the bagel seasoning, garlic, chilli flakes, spring onion and bouillon powder into a heatproof bowl. Heat the oil in a pan until smoking, approx. 170°C (325°C), then carefully pour it over the ingredients in the bowl. Allow to cool completely before adding the soy sauce. This oil will last 2–3 days before it loses its flavour, so it’s best used immediately, but can be stored in a glass jar in the fridge.
Murdoch Books; RRP $39.99. ■
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Regional revamp
From Bullara to Bathurst and the Blue Mountains:
The perks and perils of how regional dining is evolving in Australia
Words by Laura Box
Photography
Sean Scott for Bullara Station, Bathurst and Backroads, and Blaq
THE CHALLENGES FACING regional restaurants are as diverse as the regions in which they exist. We explore how regional dining is evolving from Bathurst and the Blue Mountains in NSW, to Bullara, WA.
Bathurst
“Bathurst is so much more than a racetrack,” says Michael Madden, the owner and chef of Bathurst restaurant Norma Joan. It’s an opinion that Madden shares with local publicans, winemakers, distillers, and brewers, who are keen to show New South Wales and beyond that the town isn’t defined by the Mount Panorama Circuit and its busy annual calendar of motorsports events.
The town’s tourism numbers aren’t insignificant — reaching upwards of one million visitors annually, according to Bathurst Region Tourism — but with many visitors staying on Mount Panorama during the races and coming into town only for supplies, the incidental exposure to local restaurants and businesses can be underwhelming and short-lived.
Endeavouring to spotlight Bathurst’s oftoverlooked food and beverage scene, local organisation Elevate recently launched Bathurst and Backroads to encourage more visitors to the area. Hospitality legend Matt Moran, whose
family has a 1000-acre farm in the Central Tablelands, about 30 minutes from Bathurst and 10 from the smaller town of Rockley, is supporting the efforts. “There’s a real sense of pride out here — in the land, the produce, and the people. Bathurst and Backroads captures that beautifully,” says Moran.
In 2022, Moran purchased The Rockley Pub. “It’s more than just a place to grab a drink; it’s a meeting spot for locals and a destination for visitors,” says Moran. The restaurateur recently finished the first stage of upgrades, and he now describes himself as the “proud owner” of a power pole and substation, three new water tanks, and 10 sewerage tanks. He expects to open the pub’s beer garden in spring, with a bar and accommodation also on the cards down the line. “With my farm just 10 minutes up the road, this is about investing in the future of the area and helping put Rockley and Bathurst region on the map as a destination,” says Moran.
Like everywhere, says Moran, regional hospitality has its challenges. “Staffing is a big one — finding the right people who not only have the skills but also want to commit to living and working here. But there’s a huge opportunity in the area, with more people looking to escape the city for authentic regional living.”
“There’s a huge opportunity in [staffing], with more people looking to escape the city for authentic regional living.” – Matt Moran
Set in the heart of town, Madden’s Norma Joan is proof of trailblazing ingenuity in Bathurst’s dining scene, and the community’s deep appreciation of local producers. The restaurant has an exclusively local wine list, tap beer list, and the cocktails’ base liquors are exclusively from local distilleries. The food menu also includes a list of ‘local heroes’ — suppliers who contributed to the menu. The restaurateur’s goal is to support the neighbourhood and local producers while helping locals and visitors alike to understand why the area is so special.
“I think a lot of people would be surprised to find out just how much this region has to offer. Not only is this area a fantastic food basket that would rival the area of New England, but there are a lot of dedicated, established, and locally minded producers in the area,” says Madden. “Changing the greater populations’ view that we are nothing more than a town with car races, a town of well-done rump steaks and chicken schnittys, is difficult. But we will do it.”
The region’s small wine industry is often overshadowed by neighbouring Central Tablelands towns of Orange and Mudgee, but
with reason attributable to little more than scale. “People don’t think of Bathurst and think of fine dining and wine, but we do,” says Mark Renzaglia, of Renzaglia Wines. The winemaker says the Wambuul valley between Bathurst and Oberon is “on the edge” when it comes to suitability for growing high quality cool climate grapes. “However, [this] allows us to make wines with a good balance between ripeness and acidity that do not require additions or alterations of any kind. These are the kinds of wine we want to make, wines with minimal input that celebrate the variety and particular site where they were grown,” he says.
Renzaglia Wines is among the town’s few wineries, alongside the likes of Vale Creek Wines and Winburndale Wines. Bathurst is also home to gin and whisky producer Bathurst Grange Distillery, and two breweries: Reckless Brewing, which has an on-premises taproom, and Cosmo. “There is a camaraderie and sense of community where, if one of us succeeds, we all succeed. We don’t have the history, but we have the desire to achieve and showcase the not yet discovered hidden gems of our region,” says Renzaglia.
It’s not every day that a regional establishment boasts its abundant access to staff.
But for Bullara Station Stay, nestled in Western Australia’s idyllic north-west cape and bordering Ningaloo reef, it’s little wonder that there are more than enough passers-through to fill the significant staffing requirements during its opening season.
The family-run cattle station’s location inspired owners Tim and Edwina Shallcross to enter tourism in 2010 after “the fickleness of the agriculture industry” left farming unviable for them.
For the current season, which runs from April to October, Bullara Station Stay received over 500 applications. Applicants have traditionally skewed to international travellers and backpackers, but since Covid, Edwina says the local appetite to be part of the venture has grown. This year, about 85 per cent of the applicants were Australian.
Three years ago, the Shallcrosses instated Maree Fisher as the property’s pastry chef and her partner Toby Fisher as head chef. The appointments signalled a turning point for the property and “elevated it tenfold to where we are today”, according to Edwina. Now, Bullara Station is part dining destination, part accommodation. Alongside a range of lodging – from basic campsites to glamping tents, cottages, and the shearers lodge – the station offers a farm-to-table dining experience, where guests mingle along long shared tables.
“The main thing about Bullara is the surprise,” says Toby. “You come down a dusty track off the highway, and then you get to the renovated woolshed. There’s an on-trend bar with amazing wines and beers. And then there’s a restaurant serving some of the best food in the north-west.” The station’s format means 10 to 12 diners from across different groups of visitors share space at long tables. Sometimes up to 300 or 350 people camp on the property, but the restaurant seats only 54, making for an exclusive experience, according to Toby.
Prior to moving to Bullara, the Fishers worked at Michelin-star restaurants in London, cementing their love of fine dining, before spending 16 years in France cooking truffle, foie gras, and other lavish meals at a private chalet. They’ve brought this appreciation for fine dining to Bullara, albeit adapted for the cattle station setting. “Our menu is fancy, but not too fancy. We focus more on flavour than dots and smears on a plate,” says Toby.
“Everything’s got to come from a long way, so the freight costs are huge, and the staff wages are huge.” – Edwina Shallcross
The team uses the station’s own beef for Friday night beef burgers, and sources about 80 per cent of their vegetables from Marco at Borich and Sons in Carnarvon, the closest veggie region. Sunday is seafood, which they source direct from the boat from a friend who owns a fish shack. The key to sourcing so locally, despite being incredibly rural, was establishing strong relationships with producers.
Edwina says although staffing hasn’t proved challenging, the regional location proves difficult in other aspects. “Everything’s got to come from a long way, so the freight costs are huge, and the staff wages are huge. But being seasonal helps, because we’re not open all year round – but then it's seven days a week during season.”
Bullara Station’s restaurant is competing with the best in Perth, says Edwina. “It’s outback style, but done very well. We’re not that outback station you might find, say, seven hours inland. We’re actually quite current and on-trend.”
Bullara
“There simply aren’t enough chefs or experienced front-of-house staff to go around ... especially when city venues lure them away with higher wages and broader opportunities.” – Bobby Corbett
Blue Mountains
On a quiet street in Blackheath sits The Kyah, a renovated 1970s motel boasting two Michelin-trained chefs at the helm of its restaurant, Blaq. Galia Valadez and Alejandro Huerta joined the team as Head Pastry Chef and Head Chef, respectively, in July this year.
Having such noteworthy chefs isn’t always the case in the mountains, says Kyah Operations Manager Bobby Corbett. “There simply aren’t enough chefs or experienced front-of-house staff to go around. Even when restaurants manage to find great people, keeping them is another challenge — especially when city venues lure them away with higher wages and broader opportunities. Apprenticeship schemes are starting to help close the gap, but it’s a long game.”
Corbett says the Blue Mountains is also facing the nationwide challenges of increasing overheads and reduced customer spending.
“It’s a squeeze from both sides, leaving margins painfully thin,” he says. Additionally, Corbett says that while the region’s charming series of villages is part of its appeal, it creates logistical headaches for operators. “Deliveries are costly, and drivers often come up to the mountains once a week — if at all. This limits foot traffic in the evenings and adds to the sense of isolation.
“Sadly, several much-loved venues have already closed their doors, leaving locals and visitors with fewer choices. Every closure rattles confidence in the wider hospitality scene, making people more cautious about investing in new ventures.”
The venue’s unique offering and the addition of Valadez and Huerta to the team have proved fruitful for the operators. Their visitor numbers stay mostly steady through the year, although they climb on weekends and during autumn and spring. Looking ahead, the operators are planning an exciting calendar of events to continue drawing visitors and the local community. ■
Tools of the trade
Some of Australia’s best chefs share their favourite tools with Hospitality — from the humble mortar and pestle to the tackleanything Thermomix, with a few unexpected heroes in between.
Mark Best
Culinary Director, Infinity
What kitchen tool is closest to your heart?
The Thermomix TM31 is my favourite tool in the kitchen. It was built to replace a range of gadgets, from pots to blenders, and it can chop, mince, blend, weigh, and more, with a built-in scale, timer, and temperature control. I threw all the accessories in the bin years ago and just used the base machine. Production stopped in 2014, and I’ll be genuinely sad when mine finally gives out.
What is one piece of equipment you probably use more than other chefs?
While the entire chef world has moved to microplanes, I still prefer the old-fashioned box grater for its Swiss Army level of versatility. I’ve worn out many and they are particularly attractive to fingertips when young.
Do you have a tool you use in an atypical way?
I love to use a mortar and pestle to make mayonnaise-based sauces. They just have a particular bounce and volume compared to any other way.
What was the first kitchen item you fell in love with, and can you share the story behind your fondness for it?
Probably my first Sabatier carving knife. The balance, sharpness, and the way the handle fit into my hand made it the best. It lasted for 10 years until someone doing a favour handed it with a bundle of kitchen knives to the motor bike sharpener guy who turned it into a toothpick. I actually mourned that knife.
Nathan Sasi
Chef
and Co-Owner, The Goodies Hospitality Group
What kitchen tool is closest to your heart?
The mortar and pestle it has so many uses. I try to steer away from too much modern equipment.
What is one piece of equipment you probably use more than other chefs?
A mincer. My dad was a butcher and taught me a lot about respecting animals, from nose to tail. I’ve always loved making my own charcuterie using different cuts and flavours.
Do you have a tool you use in an atypical way?
The coffee thermos. It’s perfect for keeping sauces hot without having to reheat them constantly.
What was the first kitchen item you fell in love with, and can you share the story behind your fondness for it?
The pasta machine. I used one for the first time when I was in the pasta section at Rockpool, where we made 12 different types daily. Ever since, whether at home or in our venues, I’ve loved making fresh pasta nothing compares to the quality.
Rosy Scatigna
Culinary Director, Accor
What kitchen tool is closest to your heart?
For me it’s a wooden spoon. It’s the one thing that has followed me everywhere — from cooking with my nonna in Puglia, to my first days in a professional kitchen, to now. It’s not fancy, but it feels like home in my hand. It reminds me where I started and why I cook.
What is one piece of equipment you probably use more than other chefs?
Definitely the Thermomix. It’s powerful and you can make almost everything in it, from oils to smooth purées, to custards, even powders. Because you can set the temperature so precisely, it gives me total control. And it works just as well for tiny quantities as it does for bigger batches.
Do you have a tool you use in an atypical way?
My offset spatula. Everyone thinks it’s just for cakes, but I use it for everything sliding under fish, lifting vegetables, spreading sauces. It’s one of those tools that just ends up in my hand all the time.
What was the first kitchen item you were drawn to, and can you share the story behind your fondness for it?
The rolling pin. While my mum was hand-rolling pasta, she would give me some dough to make flatbread, because it was easy enough for me at five or six years old. That’s how I learned, standing beside her with my own little job to do. Since then, the rolling pin has always held a special role for me. It’s also an object you have to look after properly never washed with water, always folded away in a special kitchen towel.
Rhys Allen
Head Chef, Poetica
What kitchen tool is closest to your heart?
My chef’s knife. It’s the one tool that’s always with me, and I’ve carried the same blade through kitchens across Paris, London, New York, and now Sydney. It’s an extension of my hand the first thing I reach for and the last thing I put down.
What is one piece of equipment you probably use more than other chefs?
The woodfire grill. At Poetica, everything revolves around fire. It’s not just for meat we use it for seafood, vegetables, even desserts. I probably rely on it more heavily than most chefs because it defines the flavour and soul of our cooking.
Do you have a tool you use in an atypical way?
A cake tester. Most people think it’s only for baking, but I use it constantly to check the doneness of meat, fish, and vegetables over the grill. It tells me more than a thermometer ever could about texture and resistance.
What was the first kitchen item you were drawn to, and can you share the story behind your fondness for it?
A mortar and pestle. Growing up in Wagga, it was one of the first tools I saw my family use to break down spices and make marinades. I remember being fascinated by the transformation of raw ingredients into something aromatic and powerful. That memory has stuck with me, and I still love using a mortar and pestle in my kitchens today.
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Galia Valadez
Head Pastry Chef, Blaq
What kitchen tool is closest to your heart?
I love my thermometers, silicone spatulas, and steel scrapers, but let’s be honest: the black permanent marker is my true ride-or-die. Labelling and organising are everything in a kitchen. I always keep at least two on me, and if someone borrows one — fair warning — I’ll ask for it back the second they’re done.
What is one piece of equipment you probably use more than other chefs?
The Thermomix. It’s basically part of the team. From precise temperature control to speed and timing, it can do almost anything and it has saved my day more times than I can count.
Do you have a tool you use in an atypical way?
Ice cream scoops for portion control. They’re not just for ice cream cookies, creams, batters, you name it. They save time, keep things consistent, and ensure even baking.
What was the first kitchen item you were drawn to, and can you share the story behind your fondness for it?
My mixer will always hold a special place. I still remember buying a cheap one during my first semester of culinary school that’s all I could afford, but it was enough to practice. After graduating, I finally invested in a KitchenAid. She was a game-changer. From late-night bakes to early-morning prep, she saw me through the launch of my first business and years beyond. Eventually, after countless batches and a few repair attempts, she retired. Mixers have been with me from day one they’ve shaped the journey as much as I have.
Junho “Luffy” Koh
Executive Chef, Bisa Hospitality
What kitchen tool is closest to your heart?
The kitchen tool that is closest to my heart is the knife. It is unique because its meaning and use depend entirely on who wields it. That’s why people call it a double-edged sword. In the wrong hands, a knife can harm others. In the hands of a doctor, it can save lives. In the hands of a chef, it may take the life of an animal, but through cooking, it can also heal people whether it be an ailment of the body or even of the heart. A knife, when used properly, is the most efficient tool for preparing ingredients, but when misused, it can cause injury. For that reason, I always treat it with reverence and respect.
What is one piece of equipment you probably use more than others?
The tool I use most often is also the knife. The way you slice ingredients has a direct impact on their condition. If you press down on them with a dull knife as though with an axe, the texture collapses and the food spoils faster. But with a sharp, well-maintained knife, you can slice cleanly without drawing out excess moisture, which helps preserve the quality of the ingredients. That’s why I make it a point to always keep my knives sharp.
Do you have a tool you use in an atypical way?
I also frequently use the flat side of the blade. For example, I crush garlic or gently press down on softer ingredients to break them down. To avoid damaging the blade, I use the section closer to the spine rather than the edge itself.
What was the first kitchen item you fell in love with?
The very first tool I ever fell in love with was, of course, the knife. When I was five years old, I wanted to eat an apple but disliked the peel. So, without my mother’s knowledge, I took a small paring knife and tried to peel it. I almost cut my hand, but fortunately, I succeeded in peeling the apple, which surprised my mother. It was a brand-new knife she had just bought, extremely sharp and a little frightening, but the ease with which it cut through the apple gave me a strange sense of thrill. Since then, I have always made the effort to keep my knives sharp. To this day, no other kitchen tool feels as dangerous, yet as exhilarating, as a knife. ■
Acts of service
Commune Group proves why staff training and quality service continues to draw the casual dining crowd even as customers tighten their purse strings.
Words Laura Box Photography Commune Group
“CONSISTENCY
IS CRITICAL,”
says Commune Group Managing Director Robert Gringlas. “And consistency, in many ways, can link to value.” It’s this mindset that has allowed Commune Group to successfully thrive in Melbourne’s ever evolving and endlessly competitive hospitality scene since a group of mates founded the company over a decade ago.
Over the years, the group’s vision of casual dining has changed — the result of an evolving market, the business growing up, how trends have shifted, and how much people are willing to spend, according to Gringlas. For Commune Group, investing in staff has been a main focus. Funding training has allowed the group to execute high quality service with consistency — and drive consequent value for customers.
“We made sure that a casual dining setting still comes with a really good guest experience. In the last few years as things got tougher, instead of pulling away from that, we have really focused on it. We’ve seen some restaurants cut back on staffing, training, and marketing, whereas we’ve gone the other way and invested into that space,” says Gringlas. “The standard across our group today versus 10 years ago is completely different.”
Finding talented staff is a critical problem across the industry. Tip Top Foodservice Bakery
Innovation Manager Darren O’Brien says the ongoing labour shortage is the biggest challenge he’s noticed across the board in casual dining.
“It’s not just about finding staff, but finding skilled staff. Operators are having to rely more heavily on less experienced team members, which means they need menu solutions that can be executed consistently without requiring extensive culinary training,” says O’Brien.
To bring their staff up to speed, Commune Group spends hundreds of thousands of dollars on staff training, onboarding, and a detailed secret shopper program, with reviewers visiting 10 to 12 times a week across the group's venues.
Commune Group has a very rigorous sequence of service that waitstaff must hit. “But the most valuable part of it is a connection at the table. It can be hard to achieve in a very busy restaurant, which most of our restaurants are,” says Gringlas.
They also have a significant focus on wine: “To be a waiter in our restaurant you need to pass a wine test that allows you to comfortably talk about wines at the table. We always say, if you don’t have a good product knowledge level, you’ll never feel comfortable at the table. And to create that connection at the table, staff can’t be worried that the customer will ask a question they can’t answer.”
“If you don’t get your service and the whole guest experience right, you’ll fall short.”
– Robert Gringlas
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Ironically, says Gringlas, as the group heightens its training standards, it has become easier to attract better staff. “A lot of our staff are telling their friends to come and work for us, which is the ultimate compliment.”
“Operators are caught between rising ingredient and labour costs, and customers who are increasingly price-sensitive due to economic pressures.”
– Darren O’Brien
O’Brien points out that staffing isn’t the only pressure point the casual dining world is facing. “Operators are caught between rising ingredient and labour costs, and customers who are increasingly price-sensitive due to economic pressures. They can’t just keep raising menu prices, so they’re looking for ways to deliver quality and value while keeping costs under control,” he says.
As rent costs, wages, and the price of goods continue to rise, Gringlas says it’s inevitable to pass some costs on to the consumer. But for Commune Group, it’s about ensuring the experience is worth the money that customers pay. “When you come into our restaurants, we continue focussing on making sure that you come back and get a good guest experience, rather than it necessarily being really cheap.”
At the group’s grill-driven Vietnamese restaurant Firebird, snacks, sides, and small plates range from $6.50 for an oyster to $28 for grilled squid with green nuoc mam, daikon, and hot mint, while mains range from $25 for char siu pork fried rice with tomato, garlic shoot, and crispy basil, to $65 for the fire roasted duck with orange, “excellent sauce”, and burnt ginger relish. At Japanese restaurant Tokyo Tina, snacks, sides and small plates range from $7.50 for salted cucumber with wakame and yuzukosho, to $27 for salmon tartare with cucumber, yuzu, and sesame crackers. Mains
sit between $28 and $48. Set menus across the group sit between $55 and $88pp.
O’Brien says the key to keeping meals affordable without compromising on quality is to work smarter, not harder. “Focus on menu items that can be assembled quickly with minimal skill requirements but still deliver on taste and presentation. Think about products that come to you partially prepared — you’re not cutting corners on quality, you’re just being strategic about where you invest your time and labour.”
The bakery innovation manager notes that bakery products are a good example. “A great burger built on a premium bun, or a Vietnamesestyle roll filled with pulled meats, can deliver an exceptional eating experience while being simple to execute.
“We’re seeing operators achieve 34 per cent growth in premium burger bun sales because customers recognise the quality, but the assembly process remains straightforward.”
He also notes that it’s important not to underestimate the power of versatile ingredients. “Our garlic bread, for instance, is now appearing in regular cafes and pub dining as a starter or side — it’s a simple addition that adds value and helps boost average spend without complicating operations.”
An appreciate for versatility is a sentiment Australian Pork Head of Communications Lylle Blackstock also shares. By adopting a nose to tail approach with meat, it allows chefs to both maximise their creativity, and their margins. Simultaneously, choosing affordable proteins can assist with keeping menu prices down.
Using a specific meat in a variety of ways across a single menu allows for this margin
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maximisation. “Venues are really embracing bacon, ham, and charcuterie cuts that are using Australian produce, whether they’re doing it in-house themselves or using really great suppliers out there like LP’s Quality Meats,” says Blackstock. “What’s exciting about seeing LP's or other brands or even in-house chefs create small goods is that it’s heroing the versatility of pork. That nose to tail usage of the animal, also from a sustainability perspective, is great.”
It’s this versatility that has seen pork’s prominence on Australian menus skyrocket in recent years. It now sits on seven out of ten menus in casual dining restaurants, and eight out of ten in the top end of town. According to Blackstock, the protein is a safe business choice.
“Restaurateurs and business owners wouldn’t be putting pork on menu if they weren’t assured that the consumer would order it,” says Blackstock.
Over the past few years, it’s been inevitable that that Commune Group has had to raise its prices to adjust to rising costs and significant staff training. But to stop costs spinning out for the consumer, they’ve taken some creative measures. Some of the dishes on their menus now are recreations of previous menu items.
“Being creative has allowed us to stay relatively reasonably priced and hit margins,” says Gringlas. “It’s really difficult for us to continue reinventing the menu and coming up with new, affordable dishes.”
At New Quarter, for example, curries didn’t used to be on the menu, but Commune Group realised they were the style of dishes that people loved. “One thing that we’ve always done is we’ve tried to create a product that really is in line with what our guests are looking for but is also on brand. We try to put on dishes that are not fads, they’re not things that are hot one minute and then not the next. Then really we hope that these dishes last the test of time.”
As O’Brien notes, another major challenge for operators is meeting the evolving expectations of diners. “The Australian consumer palate has become much more sophisticated — people want new experiences and flavours, but they also want consistency and speed of service. Casual dining operators need to balance innovation with operational efficiency, which isn’t easy when you’re already dealing with staffing and cost pressures.”
Gringlas says competition in Melbourne has become increasingly tough over the last decade, concurrently causing customer expectations to heighten. “So we’re constantly looking at ways to set ourselves apart. Where we’ve seen success is coming up with dishes that people love, and wines and cocktails that people want to see on the menus.”
“But where we’ve really seen a big gap in the market is service, and we have really doubled down on that. If you don’t get your service and the whole guest experience right, you’ll fall short.” ■
“We made sure that a casual dining setting still comes with a really good guest experience.”
– Robert Gringlas
Opening hours
The A to Z of opening a venue with insights from Sydney’s 40Res and Adelaide’s Big Easy Group.
Photography 40Res, Big Easy, and Cargo Crew
EX-TETSUYA HEAD CHEF Josh Raine and his partner Keliann Zellman had been discussing opening a venue for some time. When Tetsuya’s closed after 37 years of operation in July 2024, the couple needed to make a call.
“I looked around and said, ‘Okay, where do I want to go next?’. I was 37 and I thought it was the perfect time. We knew this time wouldn’t come around again because we’re expecting a baby and it’s going to get a bit crazy,” Raine tells Hospitality.
The chef didn’t want to work for a big hospitality group. He started running pop-ups at the likes of The Blue Door in Surry Hills and in Thailand at Siam Kempinski to develop his understanding of how to run a restaurant.
“The guys from Blue Door were going away on holiday, and they asked if we wanted to take it over for a month. They said, ‘This is your restaurant, you get the supplies, you do everything your way’. So that put our foot in the door. I’m really, really pleased that they did, because it did give us the insight how to run a restaurant,” says Raine.
So what did the chef learn from the pop-ups? “That pop-ups don’t work,” he laughs.
“The pop-ups game was great, but it’s basically like setting up a new restaurant every time ... The cost to start a business is the hardest thing because you don’t have stock on hand. By the time you settle in and start getting regulars and a bit of a buzz, it ends.”
Words Laura Box
Driven by the desire to settle into a venue, but still nervous to commit to a five-to-sevenyear lease common on commercial premises in Sydney, the couple began looking for a shortterm location.
In November 2024, Raine and Zellman stumbled across 40 Reservoir Street. They opened 40Res in March 2025 to rave reviews — and over the winter months began building a buzz with locals.
Co-Founder and CEO of Adelaide’s Big Easy Group Oliver Brown has opened 10 venues. One crucial thing he’s learnt: “Every project is incredibly varied.”
For Brown, opening a new venue always begins with ideation. “For us, a good venue and a good business is always built around a good concept. We usually pick a reference point to build off,” he says. The reference point could be a culture or a moment in time, like the group’s La Louisiane, which is styled as a World War II era French speakeasy. Brown’s team then develops a mood board, which acts as a style guide for the venue’s aesthetic and menus. Then, they make a playlist and write a media release.
Raine, Brown, and a range of industry experts share their tips on how to open a venue, from concept and branding, to sourcing a location, budgets, uniforms, insurance, software, and more.
Finding a venue and settling in Looking for a short-term lease proved difficult for Raine and Zellman, but eventually some friends helped them source the Surry Hills venue. When the couple visited, they immediately fell in love with it, in large part due to its location on the Central Station side of the suburb.
Raine says location and rent are among the most important things to consider. “If you really
like a space, your food or the environment has to adapt to it,” says Raine. “You can’t just put a super fine dining restaurant in a collapsing shed. And that’s why we went for the wine bar, because of the location.”
Developing a relationship with the locals proved to be a powerful move for the duo. Raine says a lot of locals in the area feared losing a venue (40 Reservoir Street previously housed vegan Mexican restaurant Bad Hombres). To set their nerves at ease, the couple “went old school”, dropping leaflets around the area. The letter drops included a contact email, opening hours, and a little more information about their plans.
Speaking to the locals allowed Raine and Zellman significant insight into what people wanted and what would work in the location. It also established a connection with neighbours and reassured them that the restaurant would be a welcoming space for the community.
In the initial stages of opening, the restaurant didn’t do much advertising, allowing them to ease the concept in, while establishing a natural connection with the neighbours. “The locals really stepped in and came every other day or once a week. It turned into something quite good for both parts, really,” says Raine.
Big Easy has sourced its venues in many ways. Often, the team will have their eyes on an area based on its location and demographic. “And then we’ll literally walk the streets and try to find something that might fit,” says Brown. “Often the best sites don’t have ‘For Lease’ signs in the windows.” To contact the owners, Brown has used a few different methods: “We know some people in the property industry, but you can use buying agents to help find who owns it, or you can slip a note under the door and hope someone gives you a call. I don’t think any of our
“Often the best sites don’t have ‘For Lease’ signs in the windows.”
– Oliver Brown
“We didn’t want to step into a situation with a debt above our heads so we really had to focus on what we could afford.”
– Josh Raine
spaces have come through realestate.com.” Once the business has acquired its venue, it’s time to implement systems such as point of sale, back of house KDS, accounting, and payroll.
Financial software like Wirely can consolidate finances in one place while providing real time visibility over expenses without the common wage reporting delay. “When opening, venues have a lot of systems to implement, but these systems are largely disconnected from one another,” says Wirely Chief Revenue Officer Simon Etchells. “At the same time, many operators forget wages will be their greatest expense. Wirely connects systems and creates real time wages vs sales reporting so you can then make sure you’re hitting your forecasts and your budget.”
Etchells recommends setting up Wirely a minimum of 30 days before opening to ensure it is correctly integrated in time, although the ideal time is once the venue has decided on its POS system.
This period is also the time to look for business insurance. “Ideally, restaurant owners should be exploring their insurance options before they ever open their doors,” says BizCover General Manager Brad Miller. “Once you’ve committed to a lease, invested in fit-outs or placed orders for equipment and stock, you’re already exposed to risks. Researching your insurance options early means that you can identify what kind of cover you may need before you begin trading, rather than scrambling last minute.”
Miller says insurance can help mitigate unexpected costs, such as damage to the venue fitout, liability issues with contractors, unexpected stock issues, or even fires. “Delaying buying insurance leaves restaurateurs financially vulnerable during one of the most critical phases of their business journey,” says Miller. “Without insurance, these kinds of setbacks can lead to significant debt or, in some cases, the restaurant never opening at all.”
Design and fitout
Raine and Zellman had a budget of $100k to start 40Res, and they tried to save money where they could. “We got friends and family into the space who wanted to help or share connections,” says Raine. “And we did a lot of repurposing. We didn’t want to step into a situation with debt above our heads so we really had to focus on what we could afford.”
Because Raine had dreamt of opening a restaurant for some time, he’d been collecting useful items in a storage space over the years. Much of what the pair now have at 40Res came from restaurants that had shut during Covid, or from auction houses like Lawson’s.
Friends helped along the way with things like painting, and tradie mates helped with electricity and the install.
“Every time they come into 40Res they get fed like kings, so they’re happy about it,” says Raine.
In Brown’s experience, “fitout is usually 50 per cent more than you budget for”. Pre Covid, Brown says $2,000 a square metre would get you a reasonable quality fitout in South Australia. “Now it’s more like $4,000 plus per square metre for a good architectural fitout. Nothing’s getting cheaper.”
Developing your brand
Another of Raine’s friends helped with graphics, logo,
“People shouldn’t underestimate the power of a uniform.”
– Felicity Rodgers
and website. “We wanted it to be relatable,” says Raine. “Our brief was a local, relaxed, neighbourhood wine bar. We really wanted to tie the locals in, because they’re the people who will jump over the road and come for some food, even on a rainy day — so you really need to support them.”
Uniforms are another crucial aspect of defining a brand. The team at Big Easy uses uniforms to allow for a smoother guest experience. “Not knowing who is working at the venue creates uncertainty for the guests,” says Brown. “For us, it’s about identifying who’s working and who’s not working, so you know who to get the attention of.” In the company’s more elevated venues, uniforms will differ between host, manager, and the rest of the staff.
Big Easy uses a mix of suppliers for its uniforms, including Melbournebased workwear suppliers Cargo Crew. Cargo Crew Founder and Creative Director Felicity Rodgers believes the earlier hospitality businesses begin to consider uniforms, the better. “You’re going to get a better outcome if you take the time to consider your concept, and how your uniforms will fit in — or offset — the décor and theme,” she tells Hospitality. “My recommendation is that people should think about uniforms in the execution stage of design. They should have a clear idea about their visual language before they come to us,” says Rodgers.
Once the restaurant shares their visual references, the Cargo Crew team considers colour palette, climate, and the business’s functional needs to create some options. “If you choose the right colour that pops or offsets the venue’s colour palette, then your staff is going to be identifiable, you’re going to give a better customer experience, and they’re going to look neat,” she says.
Rodgers stresses the importance of timing: “People shouldn’t underestimate the power of a uniform. They need to allow time for it — so it shouldn’t be a week before opening.”
The Global Destination for Uniforms
Marketing, socials, and public relations
The 40Res team didn’t originally have a public relations or marketing agency working with them, but they recently won a competition led by PR group Agent99. Agent99 is now providing the owners with strategic support around the restaurant’s new Hi-Res concept and event. “That really boosted us,” says Raine. The PR group has also supported the restaurant’s broader marketing efforts with feedback and insights.
According to Agent99 Founder and Director Sharon Zeev Poole, public relations can mean the difference between a fully booked opening week and a quiet launch. “Strategic publicity builds early buzz by sharing your venue’s unique story, values, and vision with media, influencers, and local communities before you even open your doors,” says Zeev Poole.
“Beyond launch, PR helps maintain visibility, manage your reputation, and strengthen community connections, even during challenging periods, ensuring your restaurant stays top-of-mind, attracts loyal customers, and positions itself for long-term success in a competitive market,” she says.
Looking forward, Raine and Zellman have a few projects up their sleeve. For now though, their focus is ensuring 40Res is running smoothly. “When we’re super happy and have good clientele there will definitely be more on the table,” says Raine. “We’re not going to rush into anything. We don’t want to weaken the brand or ourselves.”
At Big Easy, the team isn’t looking for rapid site growth or more venues. Currently, they’re focussing on identifying tiny aspects where small, incremental changes can be made. “The goal is for those tiny improvements and details over time to have a large effect,” says Brown. ■
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Ramsie Taylor
Pilu at Freshwater’s general manager is gearing up for the launch of the team’s next venue, Flaminia.
I HAVE BEEN the general manager of Pilu at Freshwater for the last 4 years, but I am also a director of Pilu Hospitality Collective, a consultancy arm of business that focuses on assisting other businesses build a solid framework to achieve the style of hospitality we’re known for.
Although I’ve never formally studied business, my upbringing and education in Alabama with a farming family background gave me a brain for it. I moved to Australia from the United States in 2010 and in 2012 I joined the Pilu team in a junior role while studying, and I worked my way up through the business.
Marilyn and Giovanni Pilu are fantastic employers who provide support, mentorship, and continually promote building and expanding skills.
When I mention the Pilu style, I’m referencing a holistic knowledge of and passion for hospitality. Giovanni is the backbone of food and menus, he’s an incredibly talented chef. Marilyn oversees events, marketing, and brand building, she curates the soul behind the brand. My aspect is the operational side, developing a strong core team that loves what they do, knows their products through and through, and can exude that to guests. To achieve this, we provide staff with great experiences, from meeting suppliers and producers, to having engaging training sessions. We also listen to our staff, what works and doesn’t work, so they are vested in what we do together.
There is no typical day for me, that’s the crux of most general management roles. I need to be prepared for anything that comes my way to ensure the next day isn’t chaos. As we prepare to open Flaminia, I’ve been working with Giovanni and Marilyn on all aspects from designing the menu and service structure to brand and uniform details. In the immediate lead-up to opening and once we’re open, my focus will be training floor staff and making sure that they’re strongly linked with kitchen staff. In a lot of venues it can feel like there is a divide between the floor team and the kitchen team, but we work hard to cross-train so that our staff understand how every action has a flow on affect to someone else in the team.
A particular pressure I’m focused on most days is managing the current financial environment, which is extraordinarily difficult for hospitality businesses. Talent shortages, particularly at the management level, are common. The regulatory pressures from IR laws to wage awards make it extremely challenging to operate efficiently and effectively. To address this, it is crucial for us to understand how to manage those pressures without breaking our team, which requires extraordinary flexibility. This is again where cross-training is essential. If staff are multi-skilled, you’re able to run a leaner team and still retain high performance. This also provides the team with more hours and more earning capacity.
At Flaminia, I’m excited to be able to flex our skills outside of the Sardinian cuisine that Pilu is known for. Introducing our brand to new clientele, both local and international, and being able to partner with other city-side brands and talent is going to be a great aspect of this venue.
The main challenge for us is hitting the mark in terms of expectations – not only ours but also our guests’. We have a high bar of what we want to achieve, and I think our guests do as well. As for what’s next for me? Watch this space. ■
