30 February 22, 2013 | the portland phoenix | portland.thephoenix.com
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TasTing whaT’s lefT these fish really are delicious, if scarce _By Bria n duf f Every culture has its totemic animal, anthropologists suggest, and ours here in Maine might just be the groundfish. These fish are not only important to our economy, but as our totem they represent our spirit. So it is appropriate that back when cod and other groundfish ran thick on our coast we New Englanders dazzled the world, and now as these fish populations collapse, we Mainers have receded as well. In times of struggle the totem is often sacrificed and eaten, so its powers might be incorporated. So I sampled the groundfish on offer in Portland’s restaurants — in its classic forms, in newer applications, and in fine dining. Old-fashioned fried seafood is the central idea behind the new 3Buoys Seafood Shanty, housed in a colorful little building that sits askew at the busy intersection of Cumberland and Washington avenues. The fish fry is a good one, with several huge pieces of haddock — a fish whose meatiness stands up well to the oil and heat. Along with a big pile of thick-cut fries, and a little bit of slaw, it’s a lot of food. The breading has a good crunch without getting too crisp, and a hint of nutty flavor. The frying is done with some restraint, so things don’t get too greasy and the fish is left with some of its native sweetness and tenderness. The fish chowder features
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the same haddock and little else. The stock, texture, and flavors are all fish and subtle seasoning — with no potatoes or other additions to get in the way. The broth is thick with pieces of the disintegrating haddock, and the rich flavor has a pleasant touch of sour. The fish taco gives our native cuisine an international spin, and I tried a few. At the new Taqueria Tequila, on St. John Street, they are using haddock. The fish seems baked and chipped rather than fried, which is a touch unusual. The spices imbue the flesh, giving it a slight orange hue, and bring out some of the fish’s sour flavors. Their simple approach highlights the fish, with just some cilantro and diced tomato, and a splash of lime. A squeeze of green salsa added some creamy warmth. At $2.25 this is a fine fish taco (but the truth is their other tacos for $2 are even better). At Taco Escobarr they give seasoned pieces of firm pollock a very light fry. A white sauce adds just a touch of tang, some slaw lends a bit of sour, and thin slices of radish give some bitterness. At three for $10 they run a bit more money, but you get them on house-made corn tortillas — which have good flavor but could use a touch more sear on the grill. At the Old Port Sea Grill several huge fish are painted on the back wall, looking anxious
or angry. I would be angry too, seeing all the ways they serve up groundfish. Their panseared flounder represents the epicurean take on the traditional fish fry, especially when served with fried fingerling potatoes. This fish’s delicate flesh HADDOCK MEXICANO taqueria tequila’s fish tacos. and subtle flavors respond best to a flash of Loose-Fish and a Fast-Fish, too?” Let the heat and a bit of butter. The Sea Grill’s expert groundfish be our paradigm. White of flesh, preparation preserves the tender texture, and mild to the point of blandness, passively adds some buttery hazelnut for crunch. The lurking among the dregs to snatch up scraps fish stays warm under thin slices of potato, from more active specimen: what is the conand some crunchy green beans. temporary Mainer but a Ground-Fish? ^ Melville demonstrated that there is little about humanity one cannot illuminate by considering the fish. One great test of our $ 3Buoys Seafood Shanty & Grille | 111 Cumberhumanity in coming years is whether we land Ave, Portland | 207.619.7565 can show the forethought and restraint to limit our catches and preserve these species $ Taqueria Tequila | 249 St John St, Portland | of fish. The caught (fast) fish and the free 207.774.7773 (loose) fish, to Melville, were paradigmatic. “What are the sinews and souls of Russian $ Taco Escobarr | 548 Congress St | serfs and Republican slaves but Fast-Fish ...? 207.541.9097 | tacoescobarr.com What to the ostentatious smuggling verbalists are the thoughts of thinkers but Loose$$$ Old Port Sea Grill | 93 Commercial St, Fish? . . . And what are you, reader, but a Portland | 207.879.6100 | theoldportseagrill.com
argo’s golden fleece _By pet e r ke o ug h The situation may reshuffle by the Oscar broadcast on February 24, but I doubt it. After being snubbed in the Best Director category, Argo has won every award since. A bunch of Golden Globes, the Producers Guild, the Screen Actors Guild, the Directors Guild, BAFTA — the winning streak should continue through Oscar night, with Argo winning Best Picture, Best Adapted Screenplay, Best Editing, perhaps Best Supporting Actor. That more-controversial CIA thriller, Zero Dark Thirty, will have to settle for Best Original Screenplay. On the other hand, if Argo does win, it would be the first time since Driving Miss Daisy in 1990 that a movie wins Best Picture without the director even being nominated. Nonetheless, it’s the ideal candidate. The Oscars exist to promote Hollywood’s image of itself. So when you have a film in which Hollywood defeats Islamist extremists — well, if Argo loses, it means the terrorists have won. With no Affleck, who wins Best Director? Not Ang Lee, Michael Haneke, or Benh Zeitlin. Steven Spielberg might draw on Lincoln’s waning momentum and win. But Silver Linings Playbook director David O.
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Peter’s Picks
Best Picture: Argo Best Director: Steven Spielberg (Lincoln) Best Actor: daniel day-lewis (Lincoln) Best Actress: Jennifer lawrence (Silver Linings Playbook) Best Supporting Actor: robert de niro (Silver Linings Playbook) Best Supporting Actress: anne hathaway Lincoln (Les Misérables)
Extra Credit
Best Adapted Screenplay: chris terrio (Argo) Best Original Screenplay: mark boal (Zero Dark Thirty) Best Cinematography: Janusz Kaminski (Lincoln) Best Foreign Language Film: Amour
Jennifer Lawrence
Russell has a chance. Playbook is a Weinstein film. They could give Karl Rove pointers on how to run a campaign. But I’ll go with Spielberg, and Daniel Day-Lewis for Best Actor. By the way, isn’t it ironic that Lincoln was shot by an actor? Actually, Lincoln was shot by Janusz Kaminski, who might win for Best NOT NOMINATED Ben affleck got snubbed for Best director. Cinematography. As always, the supporting categories are a headache. dream girl. What about Jessica Chastain in Everyone says Anne Hathaway will get Zero? Playing a woman who hunts down the Best Supporting Actress for Les Misérables. world’s most wanted fugitive might intimiWho am I to argue? She sings, she suffers, date a group that is 75 percent white males she dies — give it to her. As for Supporting over 62. And I’m not referring to the College Actor, which grumpy old fart do you prefer? of Cardinals. It’s bad enough that Kathryn BiAlan Arkin in Argo? Robert De Niro in Silver gelow succeeds in the male-dominated world Linings? Tommy Lee Jones in Lincoln? I’ll go of Hollywood, but when her heroine does the with De Niro. same in the CIA, that’s pushing it. And not just for the Academy: could the Zero backlash Speaking of Silver Linings, Jennifer Lawrence have some misogyny behind it? ^ will get Best Actress. She’s the manic pixie