WHAT’S NEW restaurants
Now Udon It Japan e s e
Marugame Seimen 丸龟制面 Daily 10am-10pm. 1/F (next to Paris Baguette), Huapu Dasha, 19 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District (6580 2191) 朝阳区朝外大街19号华普国际大厦 400m east of Chaoyangmen station (Line 2)
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or many of us, udon is an underachiever : that thick , listless noodle in a salty but boring broth that you used to order when others wanted sushi but you were still grossed out by raw fish. Once you learned to love all the other stuff on a Japanese menu,
brown bread with cold cuts
you probably never gave it a second thought. But at Marugame Seimen, the fat noodle takes center stage. They serve up Sanuki udon – one of Japan’s most legendary styles, prized for its combination of silkiness and al dente bite. For all the noodle’s craftsmanship, it’s not fussy. In fact, Marugame hits the trifecta: fast, cheap, and healthful. You pull up to a counter and order a medium or large bowl and add tasty accompaniments such as tempura vegetables, fried bean curd, or omusubi – wobblycute triangles of rice and cooked fish wrapped in seaweed. You then scooch to the condiment bar and top your noodles with crispy tempura scraps, ginger, garlic, soy sauce, wasabi and more. What you’ll order depends on
gaotang udon
your penchant for purity. They recommend the guolao udon (锅捞乌 东面, RMB 15), in which they scoop the noodles straight from the pot and into a wooden bowl – nothin’ but noodle. Next on the spectrum: the qingtang udon (清汤乌东面, RMB 15), which comes in a clear bonito-and-seaweed broth. This is the classic udon flavor, but here the balance of sweet, salty and umami is so delicate you almost wouldn’t recognize it. The gaotang udon (高
汤乌东面, RMB 25) ups the satisfaction factor, with a thick bone broth that clings to the noodles. And finally, the danban udon (蛋拌乌 东面, RMB 18) is a carbonara-esque heap that banishes any last thoughts that Japanese food is all lightness and propriety. So toss out your memories of lackluster udon and get to know them all over again. Marilyn Mai Also try: Nadaman
brilliant Jerks Ca r i b b ean
Jamaica Me Crazy Daily 10am-10pm. Cheniandian Hutong (west of Guozijian, near Andingmennei), Dongcheng District (8403 6640) 东城区安定门内大街车辇店胡同 500m southwest of Andingmen station (Line 2)
photos: mitchell pe masilun and joey guo
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amaica Me Crazy comes to us courtesy of Rose Lin Zamoa of Rose’s Private Kitchen, so it’s no surprise that it still feels like walking into her personal cooking space, where you’re enveloped by the tantalizing smell of simmering meats and the warmth of the imposing bread oven. Tucked amid local food stalls, this Caribbean restaurant is not much larger than some kitchens and is designed primarily for takeaway, though you’re welcome to eat on the spot. Frequent diners will soon discover it’s a good idea to call ahead to make sure Rose hasn’t sold out of your favorite bite. If it’s still available, grab their signature jerk chicken (RMB 3848), featuring wood-fired bone-in chicken. The rich spiced sauce has a deep smokiness that prioritizes flavor over heat, though it carries both
in satisfying measure. The chicken is served on a generous helping of “rice and peas” (red beans), which act as hundreds of little vessels for scooping up every last bit of that sauce. For a calmer flavor, the stewed rice (RMB 38-48) is another poultry option, topped with a tomato-based sauce. After stuffing ourselves happy, we grabbed some carrot cake (RMB 20) and soft buns (RMB 10/half dozen) to go. A perfect late-night snack, the cake is cloaked in a layer of crushed walnuts, studded with bits of carrot and more walnuts and topped with a sweet, dense layer of cream cheese frosting. The flourdusted rolls, seasoned with cinnamon and nutmeg were – just as Rose promised – perfect with coffee the next morning. Lauren McCarthy Also try: Uncle Otis
November 2012
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